Your Leading Complementary Medicine Manufacturing Specialist
Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories 44 years of excellence
Hersol manufactures a wide range of products in various dosage forms: including tablets – single and double layer, coated and uncoated (sugar and film coating), effervescent tablets, capsules, powders, topical preparatons such as; creams, gels, ointments and lotions, syrups and liquids.
Hersol also does a variety of contract packing including blisters and multiple pack sizes.
Hersol prides itself on quality assured products, which have undergone various compliance checkpoints.
Redefining the future of packaging with rPET
Coschem Scientific Conference highlights
Chempure’s 30 th anniversary
Volume 51 | Number 10 www.pharmacos.co.za
8 News
Women achieve remarkable milestones in science
Symrise opens Scent & Care office in Barcelona
Cipla improves access to healthcare
10 Industry Talk
Unlock the potential of AfCFTA
13 Speciality Ingredients
CJP Chemicals paves the way for sustainable beauty
A mild cleansing agent for modern formulations
Transmare Chemie –a reliable distribution partner
Sensory Apple Pomace – a green alternative to PMMA
Chempure celebrates its 30th anniversary
A symphony of natural aromatic ingredients from Symrise
24 Process & Manufacturing Technology
How to measure water activity for stability and quality
Primary and secondary packaging technology in action
VEGA brings magic to pharma manufacturing
30 Skin Science
Syensqo transforms beauty with biotechnology
Squalane – a sustainable beauty solution
Clay-like ingredient for better skin
The future of cleansing is gentle 36
Sustainable Packaging
World first, market ready paper bottle and cap
Breathing new life into recycled asthma inhalers
Redefining the future of packaging with rPET
42 Pharma Focus/ Health & Wellness
Gummy supplements – a preventative health trend
SAHPRA license boosts trust in Kirsch Pharma SA
New partnership to enhance vitamin and premix offering
The foundation of any successful product lies in the quality of its ingredients. As formulators navigate the complexities of designing products that not only meet regulatory standards but also satisfy consumer expectations, the role of reliable ingredients suppliers becomes paramount. Selecting the right ingredients is not merely a matter of compliance; it is a strategic decision that impacts the efficacy and safety of the final product along with its success in the market.
More than providers of raw materials, reliable suppliers offer consistency, traceability, and a platform for innovation to their customers. They are partners in a formulator’s quest to deliver excellence, ensuring that every batch of ingredients produced meets the highest standards. In this edition of P&C Review, we highlight several leading suppliers in our feature on speciality ingredients. Turn to page 13 to read more.
In the section on process and manufacturing technology, we discuss the importance of measuring water activity in pharma processes to ensure product stability and quality. We also go inside the facility of Remedica, a Cypriot pharmaceutical manufacturer and contract
packager, to learn more about why it trusts in Romaco’s blister machines and cartoners for manufacturing and packing. Find out more on page 27
The circular economy is a central theme in the feature on sustainable packaging. South Africa needs packaging that is designed to be recycled. Already a big focus in the food and beverage markets, more personal care and pharma brands need to make a bigger effort to embrace sustainable packaging. In a thought-provoking article on page 40, we share insights into how brand owners and manufacturers can become part of the circular economy.
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EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
Women achieve remarkable milestones in science
On 26 September, at a dazzling ceremony hosted in Sandton, Joburg, the L’Oréal-UNESCO For Women in Science (FWIS) awards recognised the groundbreaking contributions of several women in STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering, and Mathematics), underscoring the essential role women play in solving global challenges.
Distinguished attendees included Gugu Zwane, Deputy Director-General of the Department of Science and Innovation (DSI) as well as Serge Sacre, CEO of L’Oréal South Africa, along with the FWIS jury, assessors, government officials, and representatives from academic institutions.
UNESCO’s Professor Martial Zebaze Kana, head of science at the UNESCO Regional Office for Southern Africa, opened the event with remarks on the transformative power of scientific research, especially in renewable energy and innovation. His address set the stage for an inspiring evening celebrating scientific excellence.
The keynote address was delivered by Professor Koleka Mlisana, CEO of the National Health Laboratory Services, whose pioneering research in HIV, TB diagnostics, and COVID-19 has saved countless lives. Professor Mlisana emphasised the vital contributions women make to science and urged the laureates to continue their leadership in advancing solutions to global challenges. The seven honourees representing excellence in diverse fields of research are:
1. Dr Nonsikelelo P. Hlongwa, Stellenbosch University, for her research on the Effects of COVID-19 on the Gut Bacteriome and Virome in Long COVID Patients, offering new insights into diagnostics and treatments for long COVID.
2. Dr Nandipha L. Botha, iThemba Labs, for her work on Green Bioengineered Nanofertilizers, providing eco-friendly agricultural solutions.
3. Dr Lesha Pretorius, Stellenbosch University, for her research on Gut-Brain Axis Dysregulation in Autism Spectrum Disorder (ASD), contributing to improved therapies for ASD.
4. Kimberly Coetzer, Stellenbosch University, for developing Multi-Omics Integration Tools, promising breakthroughs in genetic disorder diagnostics, including ALS.
5. Nomthandazo Sibiya, Durban University of Technology, for research on Heavy Metals Reduction in Industrial Effluents, promoting sustainable industrial processes.
6. Christine Mkhonto, University of Limpopo, for her work on Phase Stability and Surface Interaction of Fe-Al Alloy, enhancing industrial applications.
7. Kgalaletso Othibeng, University of Johannesburg, for her research on Computational Metabolomics of South African Medicinal Plants, unlocking the medicinal potential of indigenous plants for drug development. These laureates are addressing critical issues such as climate change, sustainability, and public health, advancing scientific progress and shaping a brighter future for South Africa.
Michelle Gololo, corporate affairs and engagement manager at L’Oréal, closed the evening with heartfelt congratulations: “I eagerly anticipate the next 12 months working with these outstanding laureates. Together, we will inspire future generations of women in science.”
Symrise opens Scent & Care office in Barcelona
Located in Barcelona , Spain, the new Symrise office will serve as a hub for ideation, creativity and collaboration across the Scent & Care division. Symrise will be able to work alongside customers to push the boundaries of fragrances and cosmetic ingredients capabilities.
The space has been carefully designed to support close collaboration with customers, providing an inspiring space for the creation of innovative solutions that fulfil the needs of customers, brands and consumers.
“The space is designed to reflect Symrise and the unique style of Barcelona”
The 600m 2 office accommodates the rapid expansion of Scent & Care. It allows the division to further enhance its leadership in cosmetic ingredients, in Spain and beyond. The space is designed to reflect Symrise and the unique style of Barcelona, paired with natural elements such as wood, stone and earthy tones. The facility provides a platform to elevate the industry, shaping the future of cosmetics and fragrance, and setting benchmarks for quality and success.
“Opening the doors to this office marks an important and exciting milestone for Symrise Scent & Care,” says Timothy Kenny, president of cosmetic ingredients at Symrise. “As a leader in the cosmetic ingredients industry, we have committed ourselves to high proximity to our customers, understanding their needs, and delivering solutions that add value to their business in today’s dynamic markets. We are looking forward to embracing the opportunities of our new creative hub in Barcelona. It will enhance collaboration and enable high-quality innovation tailored to customers’ evolving demands.”
Symrise leadership from left to right: Timothy Kenny, president cosmetic ingredients; Montserrat Delor, sales director Spain & Portugal, Karim Lisi, vice president sales fragrances and oral care, Southern Europe; and Ricardo Omori, global president fragrance division
Cipla improves access to healthcare
The Cipla Foundation reached a significant milestone in September, with a record two million chronic medicine parcels delivered through its Sha'p Left Central Chronic Medicine Dispensing and Distribution (CCMDD) project since 2017.
“This achievement is more than just a number – it reflects Cipla’s unwavering commitment to improving healthcare accessibility and efficiency in South Africa,” says CEO of Cipla Africa, Paul Miller. “As a service provider to the Department of Health, we adhere to strict standard operating procedures to ensure the highest standards of service delivery and access to medicine.”
The Sha'p Left CCMDD project, also known as Dablapmeds, aims to de-congest state healthcare facilities by offering stable chronic patients an efficient, convenient method and locations to collect their medication. This not only improves their healthcare experience but also alleviates congestion in state hospitals and clinics. The project currently employs 150 young people from the local communities in which it operates, contributing to local economic growth and providing valuable job opportunities.
Sha'p Left CCMDD now has 44 units in KwaZulu-Natal and Gauteng, ensuring widespread accessibility for patients and
making a significant impact on healthcare delivery in these regions, ranging from peri-urban to rural locations. Through conveniently located pick-up points, the initiative assists in improving the level of adherence to help ensure better health outcomes in local communities. Reaching the two million parcel mark is a testament to Cipla’s dedication to enhancing healthcare delivery, ensuring equitable access to medicine in a convenient way. This milestone also highlights the importance of collaboration between key partners, showcasing the power of partnerships in making a positive impact on community health.
Miller says passing the two million parcels mark is a significant step in the ongoing journey to improve healthcare delivery and the wellbeing of communities in need.
“We are committed to achieving even greater heights, driven by the hard work, dedication and passion of everyone involved in the Sha'p Left CCMDD project,” he says. “We deeply value our partnership with key stakeholders, such as the Department of Health and we look forward to continue working closely together in future to take this programme from strength to strength, caring for life, one parcel at a time.”
CEO of Cipla Africa, Paul Miller
Unlock the potential of AfCFTA
Percy Sibanda, L'Oréal South Africa’s Scientific & Regulatory Affairs Advisor for Sub-Saharan Africa, shares strategic insights for success in Africa’s emerging liberalised beauty markets.
On 31 January, South Africa operationalised the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA) agreement, marking a significant milestone for the cosmetics industry. This initiative was launched at the Port of Durban, allowing South African products to be exported to Ghana and Kenya under preferential tariffs, creating new opportunities for market access. The published regulations operationalised key aspects of the Southern African Customs Union (SACU) and South African Tariff phasedown offers, providing a framework for local cosmetic companies to leverage AfCFTA for competitive advantage.
The official action led to key regulatory and business developments, in the context of AfCFTA, which impact the cosmetic industry in South Africa in several ways. The published regulations operationalised the main aspects of SACU/South African Tariff and the phasedown offer, detailing how it impacts the cosmetic industry. It set out rules for the movement of cosmetic products under this preferential tariff regime. With this definition of the preferential tariff regime, a roadmap became available on how South African cosmetic companies may leverage AfCFTA. Some key developments have occurred in the regulatory and operational space of AfCFTA
which may interest cosmetic companies as they represent opportunities for growth and market access.
MADE IN AFRICA CRITERIA
The implementation of AfCFTA by the South African Revenue Authority (SARS) introduces a trading framework with the following recognised state parties: Kenya; Rwanda; Egypt; Cameroon; Tunisia and Algeria. By the end of 2024, it is anticipated that 31 African countries will have operationalised AfCFTA through its Guided Trade Initiative (GTI), presenting a vast market for South African cosmetic exports optimised for trade.
Proof of African origin is fundamental for tariff benefits"
The published tariff offer outlines criteria for establishing African manufactured origin for cosmetics, detailing necessary chemical, physical and fabrication processes as well as regulatory and tax implications.
Proof of African origin is fundamental for tariff benefits. Specific manufacturing processes – such as purification, mixing and blending – must occur within Africa to qualify for reduced tariffs. The origin conferring chemical reactions include purification, mixing and blending, particle size changes, standard solutions, and isomer separation. Furthermore, SARS must recognise the trading country as an AfCTFA state. There must also be reciprocation in terms of tariff phase down between South Africa and other AfCFTA states – without it, preferential tariffs will not apply.
PREFERENTIAL TARIFF RATES FOR PRODUCT CATEGORIES
The tariff offer categorises cosmetic products into Category A, already eligible for reduced tariff rates, and what it will mean for the cosmetic industry presently and in seven years when certain tariffs will completely fall away for trade in cosmetics. Category
B cosmetic products will be subject to phased tariff reductions starting in 2027 with a target of zero tariffs by 2030. These products include but are not limited to permanent waving or straightening hair products, deodorants and antiperspirants, suntan preparations, several categories of makeup preparations, hair products, deodorants and makeup etc. It is crucial for the cosmetic industry to advocate through the Department of Trade, Industry and Competition (dtic) and trade associations for broader inclusion in harmonised tariff codes (HTCs) as soon as customs union agreements allow, as well as when local operationalisation by National Treasury and SARS allow.
continent may anticipate what to expect when these standards are eventually published. This initiative will help companies prepare for compliance with future standardisation requirements while enhancing competitiveness
INDUSTRY AND GOVERNMENT MUST COLLABORATE
The current AfCFTA tariff phasedown landscape is fragmented among various Regional Economic Communities (RECs) and sovereign states. Each REC has different phase-down plans influenced by local as well as customs union and tax collection regulator interests. Before trade can commence under the AfCFTA, a phase-down plan must be present in each member state to ensure reciprocation. If this reciprocation is absent, preferential tariff rates will not apply. Therefore, tracking these developments is essential for cosmetic companies to strategically target markets with reciprocal tariff agreements so they may better anticipate which markets to target for trading cosmetics under the AfCFTA.
PROTOCOLS AND HARMONISED STANDARDS
Two significant protocols to the AfCFTA Treaty were published in February 2024: 1. the Protocol on Women and Youth in Trade 2. the Protocol on Digital Trade.
Protocol 1 emphasises inclusivity and economic participation by empowering women and youth within the AfCFTA framework. This protocol outlines general provisions, objectives and guidelines focused on affirmative action, eliminating discrimination while promoting equality and inclusiveness. It specifies roles and responsibilities of State Parties in facilitating trade for women and youth through access to finance, capacity building initiatives, digital trade opportunities and protection against harassment. Additionally, protocol 1 details institutional arrangements for monitoring progress, evaluation and cooperation, alongside final provisions on ratification, application and amendments. This comprehensive effort aims to integrate
women and youth into Africa’s trade framework while emphasising empowerment, equal opportunity and economic participation. The second protocol was published with explicit provisions on the pillars of the draft protocol. The cosmetic industry must take note of this continent-wide regulatory development. It will impact digitally delivered services (video streaming, software as a service (SaaS), cloud services and Artificial Intelligence. It will be key to understand all these essential tools for beauty tech and augmented sciences, which are iimpacting every sphere of the cosmetic industry and life in general, now and into the future.
"AfCFTA presents a transformative opportunity for South Africa’s cosmetic industry "
The Protocol on Digital Trade addresses the burgeoning e-commerce sector – essential for cosmetic companies looking to leverage digital platforms for market entry. It unpacks the proposed regulatory provisions impacting e-commerce in cosmetics across Africa, covering logistics and last-mile delivery, electronic contracts and invoicing, consumer digital identity and online privacy, and digital payments and settlement systems, all of which will be essential compliance pillars. These compliance pillars will be outlined by the draft regulatory provisions in the Protocol on Digital Trade.
Progress at the African Organisation for Standardisation (ARSO) is underway to develop harmonised cosmetic standards across Africa. The work being carried out by ARSO TC 40 –Cosmetics and Personal Care Products aims to draft and propose harmonised African s tandards so that cosmetic companies on the
To successfully navigate the AfCFTA landscape, cosmetic companies must engage in advocacy with key stakeholders such as dtic and SARS. Many platforms have been made available for them to engage with the South African Government on various AfCFTA topics to increase the wellness and competitiveness of their business on a continental scale.
SARS and the dtic have been active, creating various platforms for stakeholder participation as well as providing input on AfCFTA implementation and roll out in South Africa. Beauty and cosmetic brand owners and representatives are urged to participate on these platforms to ensure that any challenges they face trading under AfCFTA are addressed. Participation in workshops and stakeholder platforms will allow industry representatives to voice challenges and influence policy decisions.
A fCFTA presents a transformative opportunity for South Africa’s cosmetic industry. Brand owners need to be active in advocacy actions with the dtic, SARS and National Treasury. These engagements will enhance smoother AfCFTA trade in cosmetics, growing South Africa’s cosmetic exports into Africa. It will also ensure that these issues are top of mind when policy decisions are being made locally, regionally and continentwide. By actively participating in shaping regulatory frameworks and advocating for favourable trade conditions, South African businesses can leverage this agreement to enhance their competitiveness in Africa’s emerging liberalised beauty markets. •
With qualifications in law, chemistry and cosmetic science, Percy Sibanda has over 16 years’ experience in the cosmetic industry, 13 of which have been spent in the scientific and regulatory affairs space. He participates in and leads some industry committees/ forums as well as those facilitated by government departments, representing the
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Paving the way for sustainable beauty
CJP Chemicals, a prominent name in chemical distribution, continues to set benchmarks with its extensive range of speciality ingredients tailored for the personal care and cosmetics industry. The company has become a trusted partner for manufacturers seeking high-performance solutions that meet changing consumer demands.
In the realm of personal care and beauty, CJP Chemicals offers a diverse portfolio of ingredients designed to enhance product efficacy and consumer appeal. The supplier represents a range of international principals that produce emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, preservatives and active ingredients etc., catering to various applications such as skincare, hair care, sun care and colour cosmetics. With these distribution agreements, CJP Chemicals ensures customers have access to the latest advancements in speciality ingredient technology.
and stabilising polymer. It is a water-soluble polymer that dissolves quickly and delivers outstanding sensory benefits with a nonstringy, non-sticky and fresh aqueous feel.
The natural polymer is obtained from a unique and innovative manufacturing process in which acacia gum coats xanthan gum. The coating process creates synergistic performances pushing forward the assets of each of the natural gums. The ratio of this combination is optimised for a perfect balance between performance and texture.
The line of natural and sustainable ingredients produced by CJP Chemicals’ principal, Seppic, aligns with the growing consumer preference for eco-friendly and ethically sourced products. These ingredients not only provide superior performance but also support the industry’s shift towards sustainability.
SMART NATURAL THICKENER
Solagum™ AX (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum & Xanthan Gum) is a 100% natural thickening
CONSUMER BENEFITS OF SOLAGUM™ AX
• Film-forming
• Substantial moisturisation
Non-stringy texture
• Less soapy and sticky
• Fresher than xanthan gum.
SEPILIFE™ NUDE PROPERTIES
• Thickens, stabilises and texturises
• Can be used as the primary emulsifier or thickener
Stabilises and emulsifies all types of fatty phases
For sprayable, fluid or thick formulas
• Compatible with solvents, sun filters and sunscreens, pigments etc.
• Imparts an ultra-light and nude skin feel with quick-break effect and natural finish.
The versatility of Solagum™ AX allows it to be used in every cosmetic application, even for the most delicate zones, like intimate hygiene and oral care. In vitro pre-clinical tests show that Solagum™ AX gives excellent gingival tolerance up to 2% in leave-on oral care products, and excellent vaginal tolerance up to 1% (dedicated to the external vaginal mucosa), in leave-on intimate hygiene products.
Solagum™ AX is a highly versatile formulation technology. To create an emulsion, the natural polymer is added to the water phase (hot or cold) to form an aqueous gel before adding the oil phase. To create a cream gel, add Solagum™ AX into the oily phase before mixing with the water phase.
Laurate* (and) Polyglycerin-6*) is a hybrid polymer and multifunctional rheology modifier that imparts an ultra-light and nude skin feel. It has a high percentage of naturality (ISO 16128) and is inherently biodegradable. This hybrid polymer from Seppic presents an alternative to synthetic polymers. It forms part of a new generation of rheology modifiers derived from inverse emulsion polymerisation. The polymeric skeleton is of petrochemical origin to ensure high technical performance and a pleasant skin feel while all other components are of natural origin to achieve high naturality.
SEPILIFE™ NUDE is cold-processable and can be used as the primary emulsifier to stabilise up to 35% oil phase. • *plant based and renewable
A mild cleansing agent for modern formulations
NATEROL® SF40 is a multifunctional surfactant designed for sulfate-free and Dioxan-free formulations. This product is a testament to Cisme's unwavering focus on sustainability, skin safety and performance.
Cisme has long been a symbol of innovation and commitment in the personal care and home care markets. With decades of expertise, the company has continually pushed boundaries to deliver highquality ingredients that meet evolving market demands. A family-run business established in Milan, Italy, Cisme blends tradition with cutting-edge technology to provide ingredients that support modern formulations while upholding the highest safety and environmental standards.
THE IDEAL COMBINATION OF QUALITIES
NATEROL® SF40 is a sulfate-free, Dioxanefree and nitrosamine-free surfactant that outperforms many of the alternatives on the market today. It addresses the growing demand for mild cleansing agents without compromising on performance. Unlike other surfactants, Cisme’s surfactant delivers excellent foam stability and richness while maintaining mildness on the skin – this combination of qualities makes NATEROL® SF40 ideal for modern personal care formulations.
One of the standout characteristics of NATEROL® SF40 is its rheological behavior. Similarly to SLES, it easily builds up viscosity with NaCl or Cocamidopropyl-Betaine, providing a rich and luxurious sensory experience. This is achieved without the need for complex formulation adjustments, saving time and resources in product development. Additionally, its thixotropic behaviour ensures a finished product with a rich feel in hand and is easily dispensed through packaging.
STRONG CONSUMER APPEAL
NATEROL® SF40 performs exceptionally well when compared to sulfatebased surfactants like SLES or alternative sulfatefree options such as Sodium
Lauroyl Sarcosinate or Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate. In terms of foam stability and volume,it surpasses sulphate-free alternatives while ensuring crystal clear solutions in the presence of quaternary ingredients such as Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-39.
Not only is NATEROL® SF40 a highperforming primary surfactant, but it also demonstrates excellent compatibility when used as a co-surfactant with SLES.
Additionally, foam tests have shown that it provides superior foam properties, with smaller, more compact bubbles than a traditional blend SLES - Cocamidopropyl-Betaine blend and a quite similar foam volume. This results in a luxurius sensory profile that enhances the overall experience of cleansing formulations, making them more appealing to consumers.
A SAFE, SKIN-FRIENDLY ALTERNATIVE
Mildness is a cornerstone of Cisme’s philosophy, and NATEROL® SF40 exemplifies this commitment. Mildness and pleasant skin feel are supported by the refatting and protein nourishing activity of Myristyl Lactate and Potassium Olivoyl Hydrolysed Wheat Protein. This substance is an ester of Olivoyl Fatty Acids and Hydrolysed Wheat Protein.
In cytotoxicity tests, NATEROL® SF40 demonstrated good biocompatibility with an IC50 value of 2.66mg/m ℓ, far surpassing the performance of irritants such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (IC50: 0.70mg/m ℓ). This makes it a reliable option for sensitive skin
formulations, which is crucial to meet consumer demand for skin-friendly products.
"Cisme’s surfactant delivers excellent foam stability and richness while maintaining mildness on the skin"
The absence of 1,4-dioxane and nitrosamines in NATEROL® SF40's formulations further emphasises its safety. Both of these impurities are of significant concern due to their potential carcinogenic effects. By eliminating these substances, NATEROL® SF40 aligns with strict regulatory standards, making it suitable for markets with stringent safety requirements.
DRIVING THE FUTURE OF PERSONAL CARE
Cisme’s journey from a small laboratory in Milan to a leader in the personal care and home care markets is rooted in its commitment to innovation. Founded in 1987 by Giorgio Azrak and his mother, Antoniette Willard, the company has evolved into a hub of scientific and market expertise. Today, Giorgio’s sons, Giovanni and Alberto continue the family legacy by driving Cisme’s expansion into new markets, with a strong focus on sustainability, innovation and customer satisfaction.
Represented in South Africa by Brenntag, Cisme’s products are more than ingredients –they represent the culmination of decades of research, development and a profound understanding of the consumer’s evolving needs.
As the personal care industry continues to evolve, Cisme is committed to producing relevant solutions like NATEROL® SF40. The supplier’s goal is to provide manufacturers with the tools they need to create products that are not only effective but also aligned with the clean beauty movement. •
Brenntag SA – www.brenntag.com/en-za/ Cisme – www.cismeitaly.com
Cisme’s expertise in skin and hair care is one of the key factors that sets us apart from other manufacturers. Our products are designed to meet the specific needs of these markets, offering solutions that are both effective and gentle on the skin.
• Emollients
• Emulsifiers
• Foam Boosters
• Gel Factors
• Hair Care Substances
• Pearlizing agents
• Perfume Solubilizers
• Products for Creams
• Sunscreens
• Special Additives
In particular, we are exploring the potential of new ingredients and formulations that offer enhanced performance and sensory experiences. Contact : Angelique Myburgh Product Manager BSP Beauty & Care EMEA Email: Angelique.Myburgh@brenntag.com Unit 2, Elgin St. , Pomona ,Kempton Park
Johannesburg 1619
+27(0)10 020 91 00
brenntag.com
A reliable partner in speciality chemicals
Transmare Chemie, a global distributor of specialty chemicals, has been making significant strides in the personal care, beauty and pharmaceutical manufacturing industries as a distributor.
Established in the 1980s, the company initially focused on exporting raw materials to North Africa for the oil and gas industry. Over the years, it has diversified into chemical distribution for other industries, with personal care and pharmaceuticals now being part of its primary focus.
Since starting operations in South Africa in 2019, Transmare Chemie has experienced significant growth, which led to the establishment of a local entity in Johannesburg last year. This expansion has been supported by a logistics partnership with Steinweg, allowing the company to store raw materials in key locations such as Durban, Johannesburg and Cape Town. The strategic move has enhanced service delivery, enabling Transmare Chemie to meet the growing demands of the South African market.
"Transmare Chemie offers a 24/7 service coupled with in-house logistics and technical expertise"
A ONE-STOP-SHOP MODEL
Positioned as a reliable player in the distribution of speciality chemicals, Transmare Chemie offers a 24/7 service coupled with in-house logistics and technical expertise. A unique selling point of the business is its one-stopshop model, providing a comprehensive range of speciality and commodity ingredients for personal care, pharma and industrial applications.
Operating this business model allows the company to present tailored solutions to customers which enhance their production processes and product quality, making Transmare Chemie a preferred partner of many manufacturers.
The company’s key offerings include:
• Pharmaceutical excipients, which are essential for drug formulation, such as fillers, binders, disintegrants, and capsules that ensure the stability, solubility and bioavailability of active ingredients.
• Home care and industrial cleaning ingredients.
• A variety of cosmetic ingredients, such as emollients, surfactants, preservatives and active ingredients for skincare and personal care products.
• Regulatory and technical support to help customers bring their products to market smoothly while ensuring compliance.
A ROBUST SOURCING NETWORK
Transmare Chemie has significant capacity to store raw materials locally and invoices customers in rands, which provides added value when it comes to service delivery. As a result, the company has built lasting relationships with its South African customers.
The team’s commitment to quality, expertise and service excellence is evident in all business operations. Transmare Chemie carefully selects products to meet each customer’s unique requirements, ensuring flexible, reliable and sustainable access to leading manufacturers of ingredients worldwide. Through its robust sourcing network, the company can supply nearly any kind of chemical and deliver it to almost anywhere in the world, quickly and reliably.
Zaheer Ernest, who recently joined Transmare Chemie South Africa, expressed
Did you know?
The Transmare Chemie group operates a distribution network that serves clients worldwide. With over 60 employees, the company’s regional centres work alongside local partners to provide logistics, technical support and commercial expertise to customers in more than 100 countries.
optimism about future opportunities for the business, particularly in introducing innovative products to the African market. In addition to Africa, the company has a strong presence in other emerging markets such as the Middle East, Latin America and the CIS region.
COMMITTED TO QUALITY AND SERVICE DELIVERY
As Transmare Chemie continues to expand its footprint in Africa, the business remains committed to delivering high-quality products and services that meet the evolving needs of their customers. Blending global expertise with a local focus, the company is blessed with the flexibility of a family-owned business while leveraging its strong international network.
Transmare Chemie’s focus on customer orientation and market expertise has enabled it to add value in every market segment it serves. The company’s strategic growth and commitment to excellence make it a reliable partner in the speciality chemicals supply chain. Its ability to adapt to market demands and provide tailored solutions continue to position Transmare Chemie as a key player in the pharma and personal care industries. •
Transmare Chemie – www.transmare.com
Your chemicals distribution partner
At Transmare Chemie, we stand at the forefront of the specialty chemicals industry, renowned for our global reach and exceptional proficiency in emerging markets, including the Middle East, Latin America, the CIS region, and Africa. Our core values—quality, expertise, and service excellence— drive everything we do, ensuring that every product we offer is not just a product but a tailored solution designed to meet your distinct needs.
As your preferred distribution partner, we provide unparalleled flexibility, reliability, and sustainability in accessing the world’s foremost manufacturers. Leveraging Transmare’s global logistics expertise and deep industry insight, we deliver not only world-class support but also customized solutions that align with our mission: To propel your success to new heights.
Sensory Apple Pomace – a green alternative to PMMA
In the growing pursuit of clean label ingredients, Codif has introduced Sensory Apple Pomace as a novel alternative to PMMA.
Increased awareness of the environmental impact of cosmetic ingredients is fuelling the rising demand for sustainable alternatives. Many synthetic ingredients have been shown to harm the environment, especially aquatic ecosystems, prompting consumers worldwide to seek out products formulated with eco-friendly ingredients. To meet consumer demand, sustainability and innovation have become key drivers of product development in the cosmetics industry. Sensory Apple Pomace is an upcycled functional ingredient derived from dried apple pomace, a by-product of the cider industry. This innovative upcycling approach not only
reduces waste but also provides a 100% organic and biodegradable alternative to traditional cosmetic ingredients.
The apple pomace undergoes a meticulous micronisation process, which adheres to the COSMOS Organic standard. The outcome is a caramel-coloured powder that offers a range of benefits for cosmetic formulations.
CERTIFIED NATURAL AND ORGANIC
Codif ensures that only the finest raw materials are used in the production of Sensory Apple Pomace. Marie-Ménard is the apple variety that is used. This bitter apple is harvested in mid-October and certified organic. Codif’s commitment to quality and sustainability is reflected in the product’s certifications, including COSMOS and China compliance.
One of the standout features of Sensory Apple Pomace is its ability to mimic the properties of Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA), a synthetic polymer commonly used in cosmetics for its texturising and film forming properties. However, unlike PMMA, Sensory Apple Pomace is a natural and eco-friendly alternative. It boasts a small particle size, excellent oil absorption capacity and good spreadability, making it an ideal ingredient for various cosmetic applications.
PROVEN PERFORMANCE
Extensive testing has confirmed the efficacy of Sensory Apple Pomace. It effectively addresses common skincare concerns such as imperfections, sebum, pores, and redness. Its mattifying effect and coverage have been validated through rigorous studies, including a sensory evaluation involving 45 panelists. This test demonstrated that Sensory Apple
Pomace not only matches but often exceeds the performance of PMMA, making it a superior choice for cosmetic formulations.
AWARD-WINNING INNOVATION
Available in South Africa from Vantage Specialty Chemicals, Sensory Apple Pomace has been recognised for its innovation. Codif received a BSB Innovation Award in the natural product category, highlighting the potential of Sensory Apple Pomace to set new benchmarks in the cosmetic industry.
As the demand for sustainable and natural cosmetic ingredients continues to grow, Sensory Apple Pomace stands out as a versatile and eco-friendly alternative to synthetic ingredients like PMMA. Its unique properties and benefits make it an invaluable addition to any cosmetic formulation, offering a perfect blend of sustainability and performance.
For more information on Sensory Apple Pomace, visit Codif website or contact their local agent, Vantage Specialty Chemicals. •
THREE ACTIONS IN ONE
Sensory Apple Pomace offers these multiple benefits:
1. Matifying action, helping to reduce shine and provide a matte finish, making it perfect for products aimed at oily or combination skin.
2. Smoothing action, imparted by the fine particles, which help to smooth the skin’s surface, while enhancing the texture and feel of cosmetic products.
3. Covering action, making it suitable for use in foundations and other makeup products.
Sensory Apple Pomace is a caramel-coloured powder produced from a meticulous micronisation process
years of excellence in chemical distribution
Chempure’s journey from humble beginnings to becoming a market leader is a testament to its commitment to service excellence and innovation.
By Abby Vorster
" Chempure’s 30-year journey is a story of dedication, innovation and growth"
ADAPTING TO MARKET TRENDS
Afamily-owned business founded in 1994, Chempure has reached a significant milestone as it celebrates its 30th anniversary. Over the past three decades, the company has established itself as a key player in the supply chain of speciality ingredients, particularly in the sport nutrition, personal care, pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries.
Chempure started its operations supplying three reputable manufacturers in the food and beverage industry. In 1996, the company expanded into nutraceuticals by securing exclusive distribution agreements with major companies like dsm-Firmenich (Roche Vitamins) and Corbion (Purac Biochem) in South Africa. This strategic move marked the beginning of Chempure’s growth trajectory, allowing it to represent several globally respected manufacturers of specialty ingredients across various markets, including health and wellness, food and beverage, personal care, pharmaceuticals, and active nutrition throughout Africa, and in Mauritius and Madagascar.
A notable highlight in Chempure’s journey was its entry into the sports nutrition industry, where it quickly became a market leader in proteins in South Africa. The company’s acquisition by Ascendis in 2013 further facilitated its growth and geographic expansion. This acquisition enabled Chempure to build a reputation for service excellence and innovation, securing new partnerships and expanding its market reach.
Chempure actively anticipates global trends and manages global supply challenges by maintaining strong relationships with its international supplier network. This approach helps the company understand pricing movements and market dynamics, ensuring it can offer competitive pricing and informed decision-making support to its customers. By participating in international trade shows in the US and Europe, the Chempure team keeps up to date on global market trends and innovations, ensuring the business is ahead of the curve.
To guarantee quality and reliability, Chempure partners with esteemed manufacturers that meet high-quality certifications. The company exclusively sources and delivers products from manufacturing sites approved by its customers. It does not consider cheaper alternatives that could potentially compromise quality. Chempure’s dynamic and driven team ensures on-time and in-full service delivery to all customers. This commitment to service excellence and quality has been a cornerstone of the company’s success, earning the trust and loyalty of its customers.
LOOKING AHEAD
As Chempure celebrates its 30 th anniversary, the company remains dedicated to its vision of being a trusted partner providing innovative value-added solutions and quality speciality ingredients.
The company is committed to diversifying its product portfolio while continuing to invest in its team, quality management systems and operations as it expands into new markets. A strong value system of
integrity and respect will remain at the core of all Chempure’s growth plans.
Chempure’s 30-year journey is a story of dedication, innovation and growth. As the company looks to the future, it remains focused on delivering exceptional value to its customers and supplier principals, ensuring its continued success in the years to come. •
A BENCHMARK BUSINESS
Chempure serves a diverse range of industries and markets, including active nutrition, health and wellness, food and beverage, pharmaceuticals, and personal care. The company’s skilled team and robust customer relationships drive its growth. This enables the business to introduce innovative ingredients to the subSaharan African market. Notable introductions include Barsoft (a texture enhancer for bars), BetaVia (a post-biotic), Agenanova (a clear Lo-GI Maltodextrin), and Probev (a clear beverage protein), which have set new standards in the industry.
Chempure – chempure.co.za
Chempure’s headquarters in Pretoria, Gauteng
Chempure’s
Chempure’s highly skilled and experienced team remains key to ensuring future growth
The company has established itself as a key player in the speciality ingredients supply chain
A symphony of natural, aromatic ingredients
The
Cosmetic Ingredients division at Symrise introduces Flowerconcentrole ® .
The collection of high-quality, easy-to-formulate olfactive flower extracts works well with all product and skin types. Thanks to Symrise’s Actimood® technology, the products in this range can bring mood-enhancing properties to formulations. This helps brands deliver neurocosmetic benefits to consumers.
The transparent or slightly opalescent liquids of the Flowerconcentrole ® products emanate a delicate and characteristic scent. They harness the neuroscientific link between the olfactive properties of plant extracts and the stimulation of positive emotions. The new collection is proven to
" With Flowerconcentrole® , skincare brands can reinvent cosmetic routines and capture opportunities in holistic skincare
"
evoke feelings of relaxation, well-being, protection, joy, and freshness.
CAPTURE OPPORTUNITIES IN HOLISTIC SKINCARE
With Flowerconcentrole ®, skincare brands can reinvent cosmetic routines and capture opportunities in holistic skincare. They can offer a sensory experience that strengthens the connection between skin health and emotional well-being. With this launch, Symrise makes another important contribution to the clean beauty movement.
FULLY TRACEABLE PLANT EXTRACTS
Flowerconcentrole ® ’s functional plant extracts are sustainably sourced from Madagascar, France, and Bulgaria – with full traceability to the field – using best ethical and environmental practices. Made from 100%-natural (in line with ISO 16128) and upcycled ingredients, and readily biodegradable, the collection helps brands
meet the growing consumer demand for more sustainable cosmetics.
“We feel delighted to launch this new functional flower extract range, using our neuroscience capabilities to link olfactive skincare with mood enhancement,” says Marcus Höflich, global category director botanicals at Symrise. “People have associated botanicals with emotions for a long time. Flowerconcentrole® marks the next step in our 70-year journey as an innovator in this field, helping skincare brands release the full potential of flower extracts while caring for the environment.”
COLD PROCESSABLE AND EASY TO HANDLE
The products are easy to use and handle in any emulsion or water-based formula.
This allows cold processing that saves both time and energy and enables more sustainable operations. With their pleasant natural scent, Flowerconcentrole ® products can also mask the smell of many formula bases. The flower extracts Symrise has carefully selected are known for their antimicrobial properties, supporting consumer safety. •
Plant expertise, backward integration, responsible sourcing, state-of-the-art extraction and production, traceability, certifications... Explore natural ingredients that make a difference in the world of beauty: traditional extracts, fresh plant juices & waters, vegetable oils & butters.
Always looking for the next generation of valuable natural ingredients for inspiration, performance and sensoriality.
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS BY SYMRISE
always inspiring more ...
www.symselect.com I www.symrise.com
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How to measure water activity for stability and quality
In the pharma industry, it is paramount to maintain product stability and quality. A critical yet often overlooked factor in achieving these parameters is the measurement of water activity. With the adoption of USP <922> as a standard method, the importance of water activity in pharma processes has gained significant attention.
This article – adapted from the Novasina white paper, Pharmaceutical Trends: Water Activity Measurement , authored by Dr Brady Carter, a senior research scientist of Carter, Scientific Solutions –delves into the key aspects of water activity and its implications for pharma laboratories. This white paper advocates for the routine measurement of water activity in pharma products to enhance their stability and quality. By incorporating water activity measurement into their quality control processes, pharmaceutical labs, quality managers, and lab technicians can ensure the production of high-quality, stable, and safe pharmaceutical products.
UNDERSTANDING WATER ACTIVITY
Water activity measures the energy status of water in a system, which is crucial for determining the stability, microbial risk and formulation optimisation of pharmaceutical products. Unlike moisture content, which quantifies the amount of water present, water activity assesses the energy of that water. This distinction is vital as it directly influences microbial growth and chemical stability.
APPLICATIONS IN THE PHARMA INDUSTRY
1. Product stability: Water activity plays a pivotal role in controlling the stability of pharma products. By maintaining water
Did you know?
Novasina offers the most reliable water activity meter on the market. The LabMaster aw-neo is perfect for the daily routine determination of water activity in pharma laboratories. Labotec is the South African agent for Novasina and the official distributor of the LabMaster aw-neo device.
activity below critical levels, manufacturers can prevent negative impacts on product quality, particularly for crystalline and amorphous excipients.
2. Microbial safety: Microorganisms require a specific water activity level to thrive. By controlling water activity, the risk of microbial contamination can be significantly reduced, thereby minimising the need for extensive microbial testing.
3. Formulation optimisation: Managing water activity is essential for optimising formulations. Achieving low water activity during processing and selecting appropriate excipients can help maintain product stability and efficacy throughout a product’s shelf life.
"Managing water activity is essential for optimising formulations"
4. Minimising waste : Effective water activity management can address issues like deliquescence, caking, and API degradation, ultimately reducing waste and production costs.
USP <922> GUIDELINES
Recommendations for the determination of water activity are outlined in USP <922> Water Activity. The USP <922> method, which became official in 2021, provides comprehensive guidelines for measuring water activity, detailing sensor types, calibration methods and sampling techniques. It emphasises the necessity of keeping water activity below critical levels to avoid negative impacts on product quality.
IMPACT ON APIS
Higher water activity can accelerate chemical reactions that lead to API degradation. Monitoring water activity is crucial to maintain product stability and efficacy.
The Novasina white paper highlights the non-linear relationship between water activity and moisture, which varies by product, and
points out that increased hygroscopicity can aid in stabilising water activity levels. Click here to download the white paper: https://www. labotec.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/ Water-Activity_AppNote_Pharma.pdf.
MOISTURE MIGRATION IN MULTICOMPONENT PHARMACEUTICALS
Moisture migration in multi-component pharmaceuticals, such as capsules, can elevate water activity and accelerate degradation. To counter this, it is crucial for all components to have similar water activity levels to avoid moisture imbalances.
Water activity is a vital yet often neglected factor in pharmaceutical quality and formulation. Effective management of water activity can address issues like deliquescence, caking, microbial susceptibility and API degradation. Establishing an optimal water activity range can also simplify microbial testing processes, saving time and reducing production costs. •
Science is a journey. A journey to continuously grow, nurture and evolve We are passionate about working side by side with our customers to understand challenges and make a difference.
In providing the tools, we hope to collectively work towards better health, well-being, and a cleaner environment.
Primary and secondary packaging technology in action
Day-to-day production at Remedica, a Cypriot pharmaceutical manufacturer and contract packager, holds plenty of challenges. When it comes to packing solid dosage forms, Remedica trusts in blister machines and cartoners made by Romaco.
Remedica – the biggest pharmaceutical manufacturer in Cyprus – specialises in the development, production and sale of a broad spectrum of medicines, including cardiovascular agents and anti-cancer drugs, which are its flagship products. The company is committed to corporate social responsibility and environmentally friendly practices and has received numerous awards in the past for its sustainability initiatives.
Today, Remedica’s product portfolio comprises more than 300 generic, branded generic and OTC medicines in a variety of dosage forms such as tablets, capsules, oblongs, gels, creams, ointments, suppositories and topical aerosols.
The company is also active in the market as a contract packager. It processes an enormous range of batch sizes, some as small as 500 blister packs with pharmaceutical solids.
FREQUENT FORMAT CHANGES
In view of this huge repertoire of products and the extreme variations in batch size, flexibility, reliable processes and high availability are key in day-to-day production at Remedica. This is particularly true regarding the format parts, because format changes are necessary on the company’s blister machines on average every one and a half to two days.
Remedica has trusted Romaco technologies for more than 10 years, when it comes to blisters as primary packaging for tablets, capsules and oblongs or cartons as secondary packaging. The pharma manufacturer currently has 11 Romaco Noack 921 rotary sealing machines at its disposal. Eight of these blister machines are used as modules of fully
Romaco has made a commitment to take back its machines from customers free of charge at the end of their service life in the interests of a circular economy. Did you know?
automated lines in conjunction with Romaco Promatic cartoners while the other three are standalone units.
This standardisation of the solids packaging technology provides multiple benefits for Remedica in everyday production, especially where small batches are concerned.
"Remedica has trusted Romaco technologies for more than 10 years"
“Diminishing batch sizes are a growing trend in contract packing,” says Dimitar Vasilev, production engineer at Remedica. “Against that background, using several machines of the same type enables far more flexible production planning because we can use the same format parts on all our rotary sealing machines. On top of that, standardised solutions make life easier for our operators and they need less training for familiarisation.”
MORE THAN 50 ROMACO BLISTER FORMAT SETS IN USE
All parts belonging to a format set – such as feeding formats, deflection rollers or sealing, coding, perforating and die-cutting tools – are tested by Romaco before they leave the factory on machines specially reserved for this purpose together with the specific customer product and the relevant packaging.
“Our stock of format sets has been regularly expanded ever since we first started working with Romaco. We currently have more than 50 blister format sets in total, and we liaise closely and constantly with Romaco’s PacTech format competence center,” Vasilev continues. “We can rely on Romaco to supply us with precisely fitting format parts that let us resume
production again without delay whenever we change the format. The light weight of the individual components is another important advantage. Every format part can be lifted and fitted by one person.”
Romaco blister machines and cartoners have an ergonomic design with easy access to all components. The plug-and-play principle of the format parts guarantees fail-safe installation. Over the last few years, Romaco has systematically reduced the number of format parts for its machines, reducing times for retooling. Romaco Noack’s blister packaging lines permit reproducible, toolless format changes in under 30 minutes. Furthermore, the hygienic design of these machines means
The blisters are packed in cartons on a Romaco Promatic cartoner (Image: Romaco)
Thanks to the light weight of the individual components, Romaco Noack’s blister packaging lines permit format changes in under 30 minutes
Remedica manufactures more than 300 generic, branded generic and OTC products
less downtime and optimal availability because with their smooth surfaces and their rounded corners and edges, all blister machines and cartoners built by Romaco Noack and Promatic are quick and easy to clean.
INDIVIDUAL, SPACE-SAVING LINE LAYOUT
The blister machines and cartoners at Remedica’s manufacturing site in Limassol, Cyprus, are arranged in-line in a so-called Z-layout. Romaco tailored the configuration to
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meet Remedica’s needs exactly. The blisters are discharged at the front and the cartoner is positioned in front of the blister machine and slightly to one side of it. This individual layout and the compact design of the machines helped Romaco achieve a very small footprint overall and fit the blister packaging lines optimally into the limited space available.
PLANNED CAPACITY EXPANSION
The pharma manufacturer is planning to expand its production capacity soon and to introduce a Romaco Noack 623, which can process all common thermoformable and sealable foils with an output of up to 480 blisters per minute and a maximum forming depth of 25mm. Vasilev is confident, saying: “By expanding our existing production capacity, which is based on rotary sealing, with a blister machine featuring platen technology, we’ll be in a position to manufacture even more flexibly and give the market what it wants better than ever, because we’ll additionally be able to process very large or thick tablets and oblongs with the Romaco Noack 623.” •
Romaco – www.romaco.com
IGL integrated granulation line
Multipurpose: wet granulation, drying and particle coating solution
VEGA brings magic to pharma manufacturing
Imagine trying to measure the level of a liquid in a boiling cauldron surrounded by swirling vapours and corrosive fumes. This is a daily reality for instrumentation in pharmaceutical manufacturing.
Accurate and dependable measurement tools for pharmaceutical processes are crucial. High safety and quality standards are required for these processes, with manufacturing involving a series of processing stages carried out in a potential environment that adheres to strict production guidelines and environmental regulations. In short, during pharmaceutical manufacturing, there is no room for error. The radar antennae of instrumentation can be prone to dirt deposits and crystallisation while obtaining precise level measurements can be complicated. Complications are often caused by obstacles such as process vessels and reactors. The size, shape, and installation environment of tanks, and mechanical factors, often pose difficulties for level sensors. Surfaces within reactors and mixers are frequently in motion and can be turbulent, adding to the complexity.
To overcome these challenges and consistently achieve reliable and precise measured values, pharmaceutical manufacturers work with VEGA.
RELIABLE LEVEL MEASUREMENT
Safety and quality are non-negotiable in pharmaceutical production, because products must meet exceptionally high standards to ensure patient safety. Parameters such as level and pressure can save batches, particularly in storage tanks and reactors. In the mixing stages, reliable level measurement ensures a continuous supply of active ingredients to the filling machines. Overfill protection is provided by a level detection system in collecting vessels, highlighting safety and precision throughout
the production chain. For this reason, numerous sensors are required to monitor production.
In the storage tanks and reactors, parameters such as level and pressure are of interest. Several global pharma manufacturers have opted for VEGA sensors in their production facilities. One such manufacturer reported using mainly VEGAPULS noncontact radar sensors and VEGAFLEX guided wave radar sensors on its raw material and wastewater tanks. Since VEGA introduced the VEGAPULS 6X, various manufacturers have started using it in their reactors.
"Several pharmaceutical manufacturers across the globe have opted for VEGA sensors in their production facilities"
The VEGAPULS 42 compact radar sensor is versatile for continuous level measurement in active substance reservoirs and in capsule reservoirs. It is specifically designed for noncontact level measurement of liquids and bulk solids in straightforward to moderate applications. Installation effort is reduced with the optional universal connection for hygienic adapters.
The universal connection also streamlines inventory management, meeting the strict requirements of hygienic processing in the pharmaceutical industry. Equipped with IO-Link, it provides continuous digital data transmission. This cost-effective solution ensures uninterrupted capsule filling thanks to its reliable measurement capabilities. Its user-friendly design allows for automatic
filling through continuous monitoring of storage containers.
DEPENDABLE LIMIT DETECTION
The VEGAPOINT 31 is a cost-effective limit switch designed for light bulk solids applications. It features a capacitive point level sensor, making it ideal for monitoring point levels in collecting containers for filled capsules. With its straightforward operation and optical switching display, it offers reliable detection of limit levels regardless of the medium present. Its compact design is suited to tight spaces, and the optional universal connection for hygiene adapters reduces installation effort and inventory needs, meeting the hygienic processing requirements of the pharma industry. The VEGAPOINT 31 can be used without adjustment and offers continuous digital data transmission via IO-Link.
Pressure transmitters have diverse applications within multi-product facilities, including feed lines for transporting finished products to storage tanks. The VEGABAR 82 serves the dual purpose of controlling production processes and monitoring nitrogen neutralisation. In areas with highly aggressive substances, the VEGABAR 82, which features a ceramic diaphragm, is paired with PVDF process fittings and FFKM seals. It is capable of measuring pressures ranging from vacuum to 15 bar overpressure. For main storage tanks, typically 8m to 15m in height and 2m to 3m in diameter, various VEGA-level sensors can be installed to monitor and control a range of products, including raw materials, solvents and acids. •
Syensqo transforms beauty with biotechnology
Syensqo launches Cerafy™ Pure NPo, a true hero-ingredient for skin barrier restoration.
With the growing emphasis on developing more sustainable raw material manufacturing processes, comes consumer demand for eco-friendly products that do not compromise on performance. How about leading this change with an innovative biotechnology issued Ceramide NP? Brands are turning to hero ingredients – proven, effective compounds like Ceramides, which reassure consumers of a final product's efficacy. Combining sustainability with cutting-edge skincare solutions is a way to answer evolving market demands.
A DYNAMIC FORCE IN BEAUTY CARE
Skin health can be enhanced by supplementing it with biomimetic molecules such as Ceramides and amino acids. Ceramides are lipid molecules found in high concentrations within the cell membranes of the stratum corneum. They act as the glue between the corneocytes to keep a well-organised skin structure.
Among the various types of Ceramides, Ceramide NP, also called Ceramide III, is particularly noteworthy for its ability to naturally enhance the skin's barrier function and increase its moisture level.
Over time and with exposure to environmental aggressors, skin's natural Ceramide NP levels decrease, compromising the protective function of the skin barrier. This makes it necessary to introduce Ceramide NP into skin care routines.
The inclusion of Ceramide NP in skincare products offers a multitude of benefits. It is known to help retain moisture,
reinforce the skin barrier function to avoid harmful aggressors (UV, environmental and chemical) to maintain overall skin health. Reinforcing the skin with Ceramide NP will help fight against premature ageing.
Ceramide NP stands out as a hero ingredient for products that promote healthy, resilient skin. Its ability to enhance the skin’s natural functions makes it an invaluable component in the formulation of high-quality skincare products.
THE SCIENCE BEHIND CERAMIDES
Nowadays, being a hero ingredient is no longer enough. Every part of the raw material life cycle is scrutinised, from sourcing to the manufacturing process, including waste disposal.
As a driver of the future of beauty, biotechnology helps create highperformance, ethical, and sustainable ingredients that meet regulatory standards and consumer demand for eco-friendly products. Advanced biotechnologies like fermentation are key to developing safe, renewable carbon-based ingredients.
Ceramides can now be produced with such innovative manufacturing processes. It begins with the Ceramide precursor (phytosphingosine) extraction through yeast fermentation, followed by acylation with fatty acid. This method ensures that the obtained solutions are identical to their naturally occurring counterparts, present in the stratum corneum, which, in turn, offers great bioaffinity coupled with immediate and high efficacy.
• Hero ingredient answering the need for dermocosmetics and strong efficacy.
• It mimics the natural skin component called Ceramide NP, or Ceramide III.
• It repairs and restores the skin’s barrier function.
• It improves skin hydration and prevents premature ageing.
CERAMIDE NP’S KEY FEATURES AND BENEFITS: "
PURE BIOMIMETIC CERAMIDES FOR A STRONGER SKIN BARRIER
Incorporating biomimetic Ceramide NP in a skincare product will induce enhanced barrier function, moisture retention and a biomimetic activity that closely mimics the skin's natural processes. Ceramide NP is specifically designed to replenish the skin's natural Ceramide levels.
In terms of performance, Ceramide NP demonstrates its efficacy through rigorous testing, including corneometry to evaluate skin hydration and the measurement of TEWL. These methods underscore its superior hydrating properties, significantly improving skin moisture levels and barrier function over short- and long-term periods.
Formulators can rely on the natural and biomimetic Ceramide NP as a perfect trendy solution to substantiate claims with solid scientific backing.
CONCLUSION
To be at the forefront of leveraging the dynamic nature of Ceramides, the goal is to continuously expand the range of Ceramides-based solutions to reflect and represent each unique skin type. This approach will allow formulators to develop personalised skin care routines that can address individual consumer needs, harnessing the natural power of Ceramides to restore, protect and maintain skin's beauty. •
Squalane –a sustainable beauty solution
In the search for sustainable cosmetic ingredients, Neossance™ Squalane, a high-purity biotech emollient derived from sugarcane, is a prime example of innovation meeting environmental responsibility.
Squalane has a rich history in the cosmetic industry, evolving through three generations of extraction methods. Initially sourced from shark liver oil, it shifted to olive oil in the 1980s due to environmental concerns. Today, the latest generation of squalane is produced biotechnologically from renewable plant materials, specifically sugarcane. This move not only addresses sustainability but also ensures a stable and high-quality supply.
Neossance™ Squalane is derived from Bonsucro renewable sugarcane via fermentation (white technology), boasting a high purity of 92% to 94% C30 content. It is clear, colourless, odourless, non-toxic, and non-irritating, offering excellent sensory properties and technical advantages in cosmetic formulations. Its
Did you know?
dermatological benefits include emollience and hydration, while restoring the suppleness of skin, making it a versatile ingredient for various applications.
A clinical study demonstrated that 5% Neossance™ Squalane significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by 18%, enhanced skin elasticity by 10%, and decreased skin roughness by 28%, after 28 days.
SUSTAINABILITY AT ITS CORE
Neossance™ Squalane is 100% USDA certified biobased, non-GMO, and Ecocert approved. Its production does not compete with food resources and is significantly more efficient than olive-derived squalane, yielding up to 2 500kg per hectare from sugarcane compared to only 50kg from olives. This efficiency ensures a reliable supply chain, addressing concerns about scarcity and price volatility, while ensuring traceability from production to market.1
to sustainability. The renewable characteristics of these ingredients make them attractive choices for manufacturers in the pursuit of meeting the growing demand for environmentally responsible beauty solutions.
In hair care applications, Neossance™ Hemisqualane penetrates hair fibres resulting healthier hair (ex vivo).
Available in South Africa from The Care Co., Neossance™ Squalane and Hemisqualane present a stable, high-quality and sustainable alternative to traditional squalane sources. Their production from sugarcane ensures a reliable supply chain, while their hair and skincare benefits position these ingredients as versatile options for personal care products. •
REFERENCE:
1. Personal Care Insights: https://www. personalcareinsights.com/news/natural-andorganic-beauty-ingredients-meet-growingdemand-for-sustainable-solutions.html
Neossance™ Squalane helps to enhance the delivery of active ingredients in topical formulations.
Givaudan Active Beauty, which holds commercialisation rights to Neossance™ Squalane and Hemisqualane, is committed
Givaudan Active Beauty –www.givaudan.com/fragrance-beauty/ active-beauty The Care Co. – https://careco.co.za/
Clay-like ingredient for better skin
Uniclay™ biotech ingredient is a fermentation-based extract derived from a clay microorganism that mimics the effects of clay on the skin. New study results show it improves several conditions related to acne-prone skin. By Mauricio ValerioSantiago, Eva Gómez, Cristina Bonell, Belén Aguirre, Gemma Mola and Raquel Delgado of Lipotec
Clays are often used in therapeutic applications, especially in balneotherapy or therapeutic bathing, because of their powerful benefits. Their wide range of benefits to the skin has also made them one of the best natural treatments for improving skin health and beauty, mainly provided by their purification, antioxidant and soothing skin effects.1 The numerous skincare benefits make clays an ideal ingredient category for acne-prone skin types.2 UniclayTM biotech ingredient (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Bacillus Ferment), a ferment extract obtained through biotechnology from the microorganism Bacillus sp. isolated from a natural clay found close to a natural park in Spain, has been previously shown to reduce skin imperfections and irritation while improving skin softness and smoothness in a leave-on application for overall skin health.
NEW STUDY ON ACNE-PRONE SKIN
A new in vivo study was conducted on UniclayTM biotech ingredient to ascertain the benefits of natural clay treatments in a rinse-off format to address acne-prone skin conditions. For this study, the team recruited 35 Caucasian female and male volunteers (18 to 35 years old) with acne-prone skin. The volunteers were divided into three groups:
1. cleanser group, which used a foaming formulation with 2% UniclayTM biotech ingredient in a rinse-off application by massaging the entire face followed by gentle water removal
2. cleanser plus lotion group, which used the cleanser formulation followed by the application of a lotion (leave-on) also with 2% UniclayTM biotech ingredient.
3. placebo group, which used placebo cleanser and lotion formulations.
" 2% UniclayTM biotech ingredient has been shown to reinforce skin barrier function"
All three groups followed the routines twice a day (morning and night) over the course of 28 days. Skin measurements were taken at the initial time, seven days, 28 days and one week after the treatment had concluded.
OVERALL IMPROVEMENTS IN ACNE-PRONE SKIN
After the rinse-off application of a cleanser formulated with 2% UniclayTM biotech ingredient, the skin barrier was reinforced, roughness was reduced, facial pore size was minimised and a mattifying effect was evident.
Acne-prone skin usually shows impaired skin barrier function, contributing to skin dryness and superficial skin roughness.2 In this study, TEWL of the stratum corneum was evaluated by means of evaporimetry. As shown in figure 1A, the
Figure 1. A) Skin barrier measurement (TWEL) variation (%) in the forehead region B) Roughness (Sa parameter) variation (%) in the cheek region measured by PRIMOS C) Representative images of roughness improvement after 28 days of product application. Statistical significance: *p< 0.05 using a t-student test
application of the cleanser formulation reduced TEWL by around 8% after seven and 28 days in a statistically significant manner versus the initial measurement. Volunteers who applied the cleanser formulation containing the active ingredient also showed a visible reduction in skin roughness (Sa parameter) after seven and 28 days (figure 1B and C).
Sebum overproduction leading to oversized facial pores and skin oiliness are both characteristics associated with acne-prone skin conditions.3 In this study, facial pores and a skin mattifying effect were analysed and quantified by 3D imaging processing data analysis by computer vision. The 28-day application of a cleanser formulated with UniclayTM biotech ingredient reduced facial pore size by 8.1% in a statistically significant way versus the initial measurement (figure 2A and B). In addition, it decreased skin oiliness after seven and 28 days of product application, reducing oiliness by 9.4% compared to the initial measurement (figure 2C and D).
REDUCING IRRITATION AND IMPROVING TEXTURE
In acne-prone skin, redness and skin irregularities around the pimple area is a well-known concern of this skin condition.4 Lipotec evaluated red spots and skin texture irregularities in the pimple area after the use of a rinse-off formulation in combination with a leave-on formulation, both containing 2% UniclayTM biotech ingredient. As shown in figure 3A and figure 4A, both groups reduced the surface
average of red spots after 28 days of product application by 22.9% (cleanser group) and 40.5% (cleanser plus lotion group), in a statistically significant manner versus the initial measurement. The reduction in redness was maintained for seven days after the treatment had concluded.
Skin texture, measured by the surface average of textured spots, was improved by 9.9% (cleanser group) and 22.0% (cleanser plus lotion group) after 28 days. Again, the improvement in skin irregularities was still evident one week after stopping product use (see figure 3B and figure 4B).
CONCLUSION
The rinse-off application of a cleanser containing 2% UniclayTM biotech ingredient has been shown to reinforce skin barrier function and reduce skin roughness for a softer skin appearance. In addition, it contributes to facial pore reduction and provides a skin mattifying effect, while decreasing issues of redness and irritation associated with pimples in acne-prone skin.
Smoother skin with less texture irregularities was also demonstrated after the use of the active ingredient in a rinseoff application.
The combined application of a rinse-off product with a lotion, both containing the active ingredient, further improved the redness and skin texture imperfections in the pimple area of acne-prone skin.
This new study complements prior studies that demonstrate significant improvements in reducing skin imperfections in a leave-on application. Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, UniclayTM biotech ingredient can be considered as a key multifunctional solution to be included in different formulation formats intended to help beautify acne-prone skin. •
REFERENCES:
1. Incledion A, Boseley M, Moses RL, Moseley R, Hill KE, Thomas DW, Adams RA, Jones TP, BéruBé KA. A New Look at the Purported Health Benefits of Commercial and Natural Clays . Biomolecules. 2021 Jan 5;11(1):58.
2. Zhang X, Zhang Z, Tao H, He X, Hsu K, Wang W, Fang X, Steel A. Comprehensive assessment of the efficacy and safety of a clay mask in oily and acne skin. Skin Res Technol. 2023 Nov;29(11).
3. Schachner LA, Alexis AF, Andriessen A, Berson D, Gold M, Goldberg DJ, Hu S, Keri J, Kircik L, Woolery-Lloyd H. Insights into acne and the skin barrier: Optimizing treatment regimens with ceramide-containing skincare. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Nov;22(11):2902-2909.
4. Geng R, Sibbald RG. Acne Vulgaris: Clinical Aspects and Treatments. Adv Skin Wound Care. 2024 Feb 1;37(2):67-75.
Lubrizol Life Science Beauty –www.lubrizol.com/personal-care Savannah Fine Chemicals – savannah.co.za
Figure 2. A) Pore size variation (%) in the cheek region B) Skin oiliness aspect variation (%) in the forehead region C) Representative images of pore size reduction after 28 days of product application D) Representative images of the skin mattifying improvement after seven days of product application. Statistical significance: *p< 0.05 using a t-student test
Figure 3. A) Surface average of red spots variation (%) in the pimple area B) Surface average of skin texture spots irregularities variation (%) in the pimple area. Statistical significance: *p< 0.05 using a t-student test
Figure 4. A) Representative images of redness reduction in the pimple area after 28 days of product application and one week after stopping product application B) Representative images of skin texture improvement in a pimple area after 28 days of product application and one week after stopping product application
The future of cleansing is gentle
In a world where skincare products are scrutinised not only for their efficacy but also for their sustainability credentials, Croda Beauty’s commitment to clean, green chemistry is setting a new standard.
There has been a significant increase in the number of consumers identifying as having sensitive skin. In fact, 71% of consumers say they have sensitive skin, indicating a growing need for skincare products that prioritise gentle care without compromising on performance.
This need is particularly evident in the skin cleansing category. Many consumers are aware of the potential impact that cleansing can have on the skin barrier. As a result, there is a heightened desire for gentle alternatives that prioritise skin health.
A VERSATILE SKIN-FRIENDLY TECHNOLOGY
Croda Beauty’s NatraFusion SL HA is a breakthrough solution in skin hydration which addresses skin health needs with
its exceptional cleansing properties. The ultra-mild biosurfactant harnesses the power of glycolipids to lock in moisture, keeping skin supple and radiant.
What sets Natrafusion SL HA apart is its versatility. It can be used as the sole surfactant in a formulation, delivering exceptional cleansing power in a gentle, skin-friendly format. This makes it ideal for brands looking to create innovative, barrier-supportive cleansers.
Natrafusion SL HA's potential doesn't stop there. When used as a co-surfactant, it synergistically enhances the mildness and performance of other surfactants, offering formulators the flexibility to create highly effective products without compromising on foam production, which is a key consumer expectation for cleansers.
BIODEGRADABLE AND RENEWABLE BENEFITS
In addition to meeting the skin’s hydration and sensory needs, sustainability remains at the core of consumer choices. With an ever-increasing focus on eco-friendly formulations, Natrafusion SL HA’s biodegradable and renewable qualities position it as a top choice for brands looking to reduce their environmental impact.
Croda Beauty’s glycolipid biosurfactant is produced through microbial cell culture. This process is often referred to as ‘biofermentation’, driving growth in fermented beauty claims made by consumer-facing brands.
The future of skincare lies in the intersection of high-performance ingredients, gentle formulations and sustainable solutions. Natrafusion SL HA exemplifies these trends. •
Beauty – www.crodabeauty.com
NatraFusion SL HA
KIND TO SKIN KIND TO PLANET
Our new ultra mild biosurfactant Made via fermentation with 99% biobased ingredients, resulting in a very low product carbon footprint*.
Boosts mildness and cleansing performance with low impact on foam Sensitive to rising consumer demand for cleansers that are as kind on the skin as they are on the planet
INCI NAME:Aqua (and) Glycolipids
Croda
World first, market ready paper bottle and cap
Paboco and Blue Ocean Closures have collaborated to create the industry’s first market-ready paper bottle and fiber-based cap combination, which is expected to reach consumers in early 2025.
Building on years of experience in the advancement and introduction of paper bottle packaging, Paboco is applying these learnings to launch a product line that consists of the first-ever available combination of paper bottles and fiber-based caps.
Following its mission of ‘repacking the planet’, Paboco consistently works towards developing solutions that improve on the past. This creates lasting, impactful change, which brings innovation into reality.
For this project, Paboco is partnering with Blue Ocean Closures, which has launched a standard closure for solids and pills, to be immediately ready for use in the market.
The entire package and cap weigh less than 16g in total, and the HDPE barrier weighs less than 2g, adhering to Paboco’s focus on reducing raw materials in manufacturing.
With the bottle’s thin barrier, the combined package is recyclable as paper packaging. This is a huge step in the right direction for Paboco and consumer brands.
LABEL-FRIENDLY INGREDIENTS
Whilst the terms natural and label friendly are open to interpretation, it’s clear that some ingredients are less popular than they once were (titanium dioxide for instance). Using label-friendly ingredients that consumers recognise and trust is essential in today's market. Natural ingredients not only align
Did you know?
The Paboco paper bottle is a CO₂ reduction driver. It is made from primary FSC certified wood fibres, pioneering climatefriendly packaging innovation for a sustainable future.
with consumers’ preferences but also contribute to a positive brand image.
For over-the-counter products, marketing claims highlighting natural ingredients can elevate your brand and set your product apart from competitors.
CREATING IMMEDIATE CHANGE
“This brings about an immediate change in the industry; here we are changing the material options of the packaging industry and keeping a focus on lightweight packaging. We have already kicked off production and expect to see these bottles in consumers’ hands by early 2025. I am excited that we can offer this solution, not as a concept, but as a new packaging reality,” says Michael Michelsen, commercial director, Paboco.
Ola Tönnberg, CCO, BlueOcean Closures, adds: “We see that the fibrebased closure is a new standard category, applicable to a range of different bottle materials. Expanding the possibilities to
" The entire package and cap weigh less than 16g in total"
reduce plastics, we are also very excited to launch the new closure for fibre bottles, through our collaboration with Paboco.”
This milestone is a continuation of Paboco’s journey to introduce paper bottles at scale by the end of 2025 and in the development of future bio-based solutions.
WORKING WITH THE PIONEER COMMUNITY
Paboco will apply the technical and design learnings from the combination of paper bottles and caps within the Pioneer Community, which is a group of companies that were first in supporting paper bottles (where development continues in solving the packaging needs of a wide variety of products). The Absolut Group is an example of a Pioneer Community company that is working with both Paboco and Blue Ocean Closures.
“We are proud to be part of the Paboco and Blue Ocean Closures Pioneer Communities. This launch marks an important milestone in sustainable packaging, and we look forward to learning from it as we continue our cross-industry efforts to drive sustainable innovation and expand our packaging material portfolio,” comments Elin Furelid, director future of packaging, The Absolut Group.
The paper bottle and cap are available for selected partners to order and will be exhibited at this year’s CPHI in Milan, Italy, and at Scanpack in Gothenburg, Sweden. •
Blue Ocean Closures –www.blueoceanclosures.com Paboco – www.paboco.com
Developed by Paboco and Blue Ocean Closures, the bottle and closure combination is recyclable like paper packaging due to the thin barrier
Breathing new life into recycled asthma inhalers
Cipla South Africa has launched a campaign to prevent asthma inhalers from ending up in landfills.
Over six million asthma inhalers are dispensed in South Africa annually, and all these inhalers have an environmental impact. Considered medical waste – many inhalers are not disposed of correctly, and simply discarded with domestic waste. Even when ‘empty’, plastic inhalers can still contain residual gases, which are harmful to the environment.
Cipla South Africa launched an asthma inhaler recycling initiative as part of
Did you know?
Asthma inhalers usually consist of three parts:
1. the plastic actuator
2. the metal canister
its sustainability efforts. For the initial pilot project, medical waste bins have been installed in pharmacies around Gauteng and the Western Cape, where patients can conveniently deposit their asthma inhalers when collecting their next script.
3. the medication.
Through Cipla South Africa’s campaign, the plastic component will be recycled and repurposed into functional items that can benefit local communities.
Patients are asked to return used asthma inhalers to pharmacies, where they will be sorted and disposed of responsibly. Interwaste, which specialises in medical waste, is responsible for uplifting the contents for correct disposal and recycling, reducing the impact on already overflowing landfills and preventing propellants (containing greenhouse gases) from seeping into the environment. This campaign will not only focus on recycling Cipla inhalers, but any type of asthma inhaler, by any manufacturer. CEO of Cipla South Africa, Paul Miller, said: “It’s critical that the healthcare industry tries to reduce its collective carbon footprint. We therefore encourage all people to dispose of their asthma inhalers sustainably.”
CONSUMER
INVOLVEMENT IS KEY
To ensure optimal collection is achieved, Cipla South Africa will work closely with asthma-related associations such as the Allergy Association of South Africa, the Allergy Foundation of South Africa, the National Asthma Educational Programme, and the South African Thoracic Society. The success of this inhaler recycling initiative relies solely on engaged participation from the public.
"It’s critical that the healthcare industry tries to reduce its collective carbon footprint "
“We want to empower patients with information that teaches them how to use their asthma inhaler correctly, and then to dispose of it correctly. Therfore, this project aims to improve health outcomes thanks to treatment adherence and correct inhaler usage, while being gentler on our planet,” said Miller. “We want to thank people in advance for supporting this initiative to reduce our collective carbon footprint. By doing good for the planet, we are excited to see how we can also make a difference within local communities using the functional recycled items.”
Cipla South Africa has published on its website a list of pharmacies participating in the campaign. Click here for more info: https://www.cipla.co.za/about-cipla/ sustainability/inhaler-recycling -project. •
Welcome to the FUTURE of Recycling Technology!
We’re excited to announce the arrival of our state-of-the-art Vacunite2 machine from Austria, enhancing our ability to recycle PET with even greater efficiency and quality. This advanced system is part of our mission to meet global sustainability standards, ensuring lower carbon emissions and improved recycling capacity.
As highlighted during the recent Sustainability Summit Site Tour by South Africa’s Department of Forestry, Fisheries, and the Environment, advancements in recycling are key to reducing environmental impacts.
At Extrupet Group, we are proud to lead this innovation!
Redefining the future of packaging with rPET
South Africa needs packaging that is designed to be recycled. As new legislation and eco-conscious consumers drive the shift towards sustainable practices, innovative solutions and proactive partnerships will set the standard for a circular economy.
By Abby Vorster
For years, non-recyclable packaging, such as single-use and virgin plastics, have been a major challenge in the personal care and pharmaceutical industries. Thanks to new legislation and increasing pressure from consumers to adopt sustainable practices, particularly in product packaging, manufacturers and brand owners are now seeking innovative ways to reduce their environmental footprint.
While many are looking for solutions within their manufacturing supply chains, to be truly sustainable, their goal should be to close the loop on packaging. This can be done by moving away from single-use plastics, non-recyclable packaging with excessive decoration and even lightweighting.
The circular or closed-loop approach forms an infinite cycle that extends from production to the recycling of the packaging materials and fully utilises
Did you know?
You can also become part of the circular economy by collecting and sorting recyclables as a consumer, signing up with Petco as a producer, or innovating and learning as a designer or manufacturer.
all the product’s resources. It’s a regenerative process where products are produced sustainably, recycled and reused. Hence, lightweighted packaging is problematic when it comes to recycling.
AHEAD OF THE PACK
Extrupet has been at the forefront of sustainable packaging solutions for many years, particularly in the recycling of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) bottles. The company recycles over 5 million PET bottles daily, producing food-grade recycled PET (rPET) under the brand name PhoenixPET®. This rPET is internationally certified for safety and quality, making it suitable for new beverage containers.
Chandru Wadhwani, joint managing director of Extrupet, says that sustainable packaging is not only about the materials used, but also encompasses innovative design approaches that optimise packaging
An example of beauty packaging produced by Bowler Packaging using Extrupet’s PhoenixPET®
Images/Client
efficiency and ensure packaging is of high value to recyclers.
“Design is critical to creating a closed-loop system. This is why personal care and pharma packaging should be designed for recycling, including the choice of pigment, and closure and label material,” he explains. “Opaque PET is designed to fail and will end up in landfill, while clear and light blue PET are of high value to recyclers. This is in addition to polyolefin labels and polypropylene closures, which support the recycling process.”
According to the producer responsibility organisation, Petco, design influences the recyclability of the materials and determines the end-of-life options available. Welldesigned packaging is easier to sort and process, and the materials are easier to reuse, while poor design hinders recycling and results in waste.
To close the loop in the circular economy, retailers, brand owners, packaging manufacturers and packaging designers must start with the sustainable end in mind and apply innovative thinking to put design at the centre of product development. Design guidelines and more comprehensive information designing for recycling are available on the Petco website, petco.co.za
INSPIRATION FROM THE TOP SMEs and local brand owners can look to global beauty and personal care giants like L’Oréal and Unilever for inspiration, as both companies are making significant strides in their sustainability commitments.
L’Oréal has implemented a comprehensive environmental and social labelling system for its products. This system provides consumers with transparent information about the environmental and social impact of their purchases, encouraging more sustainable choices.
takes time. The company has made significant progress to date, reducing its virgin plastic footprint by 18%. Unilever has also increased its use of recycled plastic to 22% of its global portfolio, and it has trialed a variety of reuse and refill models around the world.
WORK WITH LOCAL RECYCLERS
As an essential element of the circular economy, brand owners and manufacturers are encouraged to consult with recycling facilities in their regions to see how they can work together to close the loop.
Extrupet is one of the largest and most advanced recyclers of plastics on the African continent. It operates a massive recycling facility in Wadeville, Gauteng, and opened a new facility, with a total project cost of R300 million, in the Western Cape in 2023. This is part of a major programme to expand its food-grade plastic recycling operations in South Africa.
COLLABORATION IS KEY
Extrupet currently recycles more than 5 million PET bottles every day. The rPET is sold under the company’s brand name PhoenixPET®, which has received international acclaim and is certified by the European Food Safety Authority, Global Recycled Standard, BRC Packaging (AA rating) and ISO 9001:2015.
It was the first recycler on the continent to use global FMCG-approved technology to recycle PET bottles into resin for reuse in new carbonated soft drink bottles. Some of its most prominent customers include major food and beverage companies, convertors and retailers.
Extrupet has collaborated with several companies to validate the suitability of various sustainable packaging solutions. For instance, successful trials were conducted with Avery Dennison's CleanFlake selfadhesive labels, MCC Label's floatable polyolefin shrink sleeve labels, and CCL Label's EcoFloat floatable polyolefin labels. These trials, conducted at the Wadeville recycling plant, have confirmed the effective recycling of clear and light blue PET bottles back to food-grade rPET.
According to the L’Oréal Group’s website, the ‘Overall Environmental Impact’ measures all the environmental impacts of a product throughout its life cycle, i.e. during the production of ingredients, packaging production, the manufacturing of the product, its use and the recycling of packaging. For cosmetics, the carbon footprint and the water footprint are two key elements of a product's environmental impact.
Unilever has been working hard for years to create a circular economy for plastic packaging and has learnt that transformation
“We are in the process of doubling our food-grade operations by adding a fourth food-grade rPET facility, which will increase our recycling capacity by an additional 33 000t per year,” says Wadhwani.
The demand for food-grade rPET keeps on increasing, especially as retailers and consumers alike opt for more environmentally friendly packaging options. Currently, only 60% of South Africa’s plastic bottles are recycled.
“With our increased capacity, we have been able to accommodate more of South Africa’s plastic waste while strengthening the country’s position as a circular economy leader in Africa and the world,” he adds.
Bowler Packaging – a leading supplier to the personal care, household and pharmaceutical industries – produces pharmaceutical and beauty packaging using Extrupet's rPET chip. This Cape Town-based packaging converter is committed to integrating more recycled materials at production level as part of its sustainability journey.
For over 50 years, Bowler Packaging has been at the forefront of pioneering innovative solutions in the South African packaging industry, driving progress and setting new standards.
“Achieving meaningful results requires a collaborative mindset, with strong support from both our material suppliers and brand partners,” says Bowler Packaging’s CEO, Friedel Sass. “This journey isn’t without its challenges – it involves taking risks, learning continuously, and balancing product integrity, appearance and appeal.”
Extrupet’s commitment to sustainability is both a win for the environment and South Africa’s packaging industry. The company’s progress is proving that a circular ec conomy is not only achievable but also essential. •
Joint managing directors of Extrupet, Vijay Naidu and Chandru Wadhwani
Optimising everyday health involves several lifestyle interventions. The vital role of nutraceuticals in supporting overall wellness is becoming increasingly apparent. Be Well is an ideal way to supplement a healthy diet and lifestyle for proactive health-conscious consumers. Living a healthy, fulfilled and long life are key goals of today’s consumer. Surveys indicate that 79% of individuals rate wellness as important, with 42% considering it a top priority.¹ Consumer desire to achieve overall optimal wellness shows that there is an increasing focus on preventative health, with more than 50% of purchasers reaching for solutions with multifunctional benefits to health.² Core areas of interest include cardiovascular health, mental well-being, digestive health, immunity, and skin health and appearance. There is also a desire to target underlying processes such as inflammation.
Greater awareness and knowledge on health and wellness, increased access to health monitoring devices, and higher disposable income are among the key drivers of increased demand for preventative health solutions. Younger adults view the health experiences of older generations as motivation to opt for a ‘prevention is better than cure’ approach to their own health.
A key focus for consumers is efficacy. At least 55% of global nutraceutical buyers look for scientific evidence when purchasing products.³ Delivery format is also a priority. Nutraceuticals designed to accommodate busy day-to-day living are gaining popularity. Around 37% of consumers, particularly younger adults, prefer taking supplements in a gummy format.4 Recent formulation and flavour advances contribute to the popularity of gummies. The global gummy sales market
Gummy supplements – a preventative health trend
The vital role of nutraceuticals in supporting overall wellness is becoming increasingly apparent. Be Well is an ideal way to supplement a healthy diet and lifestyle for proactive health-conscious consumers.
is forecast to increase at an 11.8% CAGR, reaching a projected market value of $74.4 billion by 2033.⁴
COMPLIANT AND RELEVANT PRODUCT CONCEPTS
Within IMCD’s global technical centres, specialist teams create category-specific product concepts, based on relevant science and in compliance with local regulations. This approach enables customers to launch new and differentiated products swiftly and address consumer needs.
IMCD’s solution-driven portfolio combines speciaility active nutraceutical ingredients (ANIs) and excipients to deliver synergies in concept and finished dosage form development.
NUTRACEUTICAL GUMMY INNOVATION
All body systems are interconnected –the brain is reliant on the cardiovascular system to supply blood rich in oxygen and nutrients, the nervous system directly connects the gut to the brain, and over 70% of the immune system is found in the gut. Awareness of the interactions between body systems is propelling consumers to look for multi-functional nutraceuticals. These are products that target more than one area at a time.
FORMULATION HIGHLIGHTS:
· High oil loading without leakage
· Fish odour and taste completely masked
· Sugar-free mannitol contributes to taste and is non-cariogenic
· Excellent organoleptic properties
· Masking based on IMCD masking study*available upon request.
IMCD’s experts recognise the consumer desire for evidence-based, all-round, holistic nutraceuticals. In response to this need, they have developed Be Well, a unique and highly effective everyday gummy targeting key processes and supporting many aspects of health to promote optimal wellness.
Be Well is an innovative blend of two natural ANIs, OmeGo® and D3V®. Supported by clinical studies, OmeGo® 5,6 is a fullspectrum salmon oil, whilst D3V® comes from a 100% algal source.
Designed as a convenient and palatable gummy with consumer goals in mind, Be Well offers unique properties for daily supplementation aimed at supporting and enhancing many aspects of health and wellness.
Collaboration on flavour masking from IMCD technical experts and ingredient suppliers has resulted in an innovative, highly stable and palatable gummy that is easily incorporated into day-to-day life. •
REFERENCES:
1. McKinsey’s Future of Wellness survey (2020) - https://www. mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/ourinsights/feeling-good-the-future-of-the-1-5-trillion-wellnessmarket
5. Currie, Crawford & Myklebust, Tor & Bjerknes, Christian & Framroze, Bomi. (2024). Assessing the Potential of an Enzymatically Liberated Salmon Oil to Support Immune Health Recovery from Acute SARS-CoV-2 Infection via Change in the Expression of Cytokine, Chemokine and Interferon-Related Genes. International Journal of Molecular Sciences 25. 6917. 10.3390/ijms25136917.
6. Currie, C., Framroze, B., Singh, D., Lea, S., Bjerknes, C., & Hermansen, E. (2022). Assessing the Anti-Inflammatory Effects of an Orally Dosed Enzymatically Liberated Fish Oil in a House Dust Model of Allergic Asthma. Biomedicines, 10(10), 2574. https://www.mdpi. com/2227-9059/10/10/2574
Trailblazing Pharma Solutions for Next-Gen Nutraceuticals
Be Well Gummy: Your Daily Dose of Total Wellness
Understanding the interconnectedness of body systems, IMCD has developed the Be Well Gummy concept formulation — an everyday supplement designed to support overall health and wellness. This multi-functional, evidence-based gummy targets key bodily processes, offering a holistic approach to health. Through collaboration with technical experts and ingredient suppliers, IMCD has created a stable, palatable gummy that seamlessly fits into daily routines.
IMCD technical expertise, inspiring ideation, helping you create your next innovation!
IMCD South Africa
275 Oak Avenue PO Box 1378
Randburg 2125 South Africa
SAHPRA license boosts trust in Kirsch Pharma SA
Kirsch Pharma South Africa has recently achieved a significant milestone by obtaining a SAHPRA license for its warehouse facility. This achievement highlights the company’s commitment to maintaining high standards in chemical distribution while navigating the complexities of regulatory compliance in the pharma industry.
By Abby Vorster
Achieving compliance with the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA) is crucial for Kirsch Pharma South Africa. It not only builds trust with its pharmaceutical customers but also streamlines the supply chain and distribution.
“The certification process was challenging, requiring extensive documentation and the alignment of standard operating procedures with South African legislation and SAHPRA's guidelines, but the hard work was worth it to achieve our goal,” says Kirsch Pharma South Africa's managing director, Hermann Broschk.
The regulatory landscape in South Africa’s pharma industry is becoming increasingly stringent. This has prompted manufacturers to demand more from their suppliers in terms of certification to meet compliance standards.
Kirsch Pharma South Africa’s recent achievement is a testament to its proactive approach in addressing these regulatory pressures while meeting market demands.
WAREHOUSE COMPLIANCE AND LICENSING
In 2021, Kirsch Pharma South Africa moved to a new facility in Kempton Park, Gauteng, which includes a 3 500m² temperaturecontrolled warehouse. From the outset, the warehouse was designed to adhere to Good Warehouse Practices which supports the company’s efforts to comply with SAHPRA's guidelines.
The certification process required a coordinated team effort at Kirsch Pharma South Africa. The company’s responsible pharmacist played a key role in the process, ensuring that all regulatory requirements were met. Its existing ISO compliance also supported Kirsch Pharma South Africa’s ability to meet the stringent licensing requirements, showcasing
the importance of having a robust quality management system in place.
“We place great emphasis on visual documentation of our warehouse and operations. This reflects our desire to showcase our capabilities and improvements within the business, further building trust with customers and regulatory bodies,” adds Broschk.
POSITIVE CUSTOMER FEEDBACK
The company has consistently focused on supplying premium quality raw materials for the pharmaceutical industry, as well as for
" We place great emphasis on visual documentation of our warehouse and operations"
special nutrition and veterinary applications. Over the past eight years, Kirsch Pharma South Africa has experienced substantial growth, expanding its customer base and market presence, particularly in Southern Africa.
Customer feedback regarding Kirsch Pharma South Africa’s SAHPRA license has been overwhelmingly positive. Broschk says that ‘while the full impact on the business will take time to evaluate, the positive atmosphere within the organisation is palpable”. This SAHPRA license is a significant milestone for Kirsch Pharma South Africa. It underscores the company's commitment to maintaining high standards, navigating regulatory complexities, and fostering a positive organisational culture. With a focus on premium quality ingredients and raw materials, customer satisfaction, and strategic growth, Kirsch Pharma South Africa is well-positioned to continue its success within chemical distribution sector as a supplier to the pharma industry. •
Kirsch Pharma South Africa – www.kirschpharma.com
Kirsch Pharma South Africa’s temperature-controlled warehouse is both SAHPRA licensed and ISO compliant
Image/Francios Pistorius
New partnership to enhance vitamin and premix offering
Savannah Fine Chemicals is partnering with Prinova to bring advanced vitamin solutions and premixes to the South African market. This collaboration is set to enhance the quality and efficiency of product formulations.
Prinova, a global leader in the supply of high-quality vitamins and nutrient premixes, has established itself as a trusted name in the global market. The company has more than 40 years of experience in producing functional ingredients and offering integrated solutions to pharma and nutraceutical customers.
Prinova specialises in custom premixes and market-ready blends designed to enhance product functionality and streamline production processes. Its extensive product range includes acids and acidulants, amino acids, additives and preservatives, aroma chemicals, botanical extracts, branded ingredients, essential oils, hydrocolloids and thickeners, nutraceutical ingredients, proteins, vitamins, and sweeteners, catering to the sports nutrition, personal care and food and beverage industries.
Providing expert market insights is a strength of the Prinova team, coupled with successful sourcing strategies that leverage strong local relationships and real-time market trends. The company has built reliable ingredient supply chains, particularly in key regions like China and India, guaranteeing quality, traceability and accountability.
Another aspect that reinforces Prinova’s position as a comprehensive partner in the ingredient sourcing and product development process is its commitment to sustainability and environmental practices.
A TRUSTED PARTNER IN SOUTH AFRICA
Savannah Fine Chemicals is a prominent player in the South African ingredients supply chain and is known for its dedication to quality and innovation. The company offers a wide range of products and services, which cater to the pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, food and beverage, and personal care manufacturing industries. With a focus on customer satisfaction and regulatory
vitamin or carotenoid blend to an Omega 3, 6, or 9, the supplier can prepare all liquid nutrients to meet customers’ needs.
compliance, Savannah Fine Chemicals has built a reputation for delivering high-quality ingredients and solutions.
The collaboration between Savannah Fine Chemicals and Prinova is set to bring significant benefits to the South African market. By combining Prinova’s expertise in nutrient premixes with Savannah’s local market knowledge, nationwide footprint and distribution capabilities, the partnership aims to provide advanced vitamin solutions that meet the specific needs of manufacturers across the country.
Prinova’s nutrient premixes are designed to support businesses in accelerating market entry, optimising supply chains and differentiating products. The company’s custom premixes and market-ready blends are tailored to enhance product functionality, ensuring that manufacturers can deliver high-quality products to consumers. With its extensive inventory of food-grade single vitamins, including water-soluble and oilsoluble vitamins, the collaboration will offer reliable supply and reduce risks associated with supply chain volatility.
CREATE THE FINISHED PRODUCT YOU WANT
Prinova's supplier’s custom premixes and market-ready blends are formulated to ensure stability and heat tolerance, while eliminating undesirable flavours and odours. They also contain the right overages to account for processing and shelf-life conditions, and they help to reduce product development times.
In addition, Prinova offers customised, batch-weighed packaging that can be adjusted to customers’ specific requirements. Coupled with decades of expertise and knowledge of the most popular categories, applications, and branded ingredients, Prinova can help you create a great-tasting and precisely formulated market-ready blend.
As the demand for high-quality vitamins and nutrient premixes continues to grow, the collaboration between Savannah Fine Chemicals and Prinova is set to have a positive impact on the South African market. By leveraging Prinova’s global expertise and Savannah’s local market presence, the partnership will provide manufacturers with the tools they need to create innovative and effective products. •
Savannah Fine Chemicals – savannah.co.za Prinova – prinovaglobal.com
A natural solution for pain relief
Rhuleave-K® by Arjuna Natural represents a significant advancement in natural pain relief.
Combining the potent anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties of Curcuma longa (Curcumin) and Boswellia serrata, this innovative product utilises patented Speedtech® technology for rapid and effective pain management.
Rhuleave-K® is clinically proven to deliver fast relief comparable to conventional painkillers like Acetaminophen but without the common side effects, offering a safe and holistic alternative for managing menstrual and musculoskeletal pain.
"
Rhuleave-K® offers a natural and effective solution to alleviate menstrual discomfort "
TECHNOLOGY FOR EVEN DISPERSION
The patented Speedtech® technology ensures that each component in Rhuleave-K® is evenly dispersed, maintaining potency and delivering quick action. This technology creates a unique matrix that provides consistent and reliable pain relief, making it a standout in the realm of natural pain management solutions.
HOLISTIC EFFECTS
Rhuleave-K®'s holistic approach to pain relief addresses not only the symptoms but also
supports overall well-being. Unlike many conventional pain relievers, it is free from side effects that can affect the stomach, heart, liver, and kidneys. Its safety is welldocumented even at high dosages, making it a trustworthy choice for those seeking a natural alternative to manage pain.
CLINICALLY PROVEN EFFICACY
Clinical studies have demonstrated that Rhuleave-K® provides immediate and significant pain relief, comparable to Acetaminophen. For example, a 2020 study involving 88 subjects with acute musculoskeletal pain showed notable reductions in pain intensity within just six hours of taking Rhuleave-K®. Another study in 2022 involving 232 participants highlighted its effectiveness across various types of pain, including head, neck, and limb pain. In both cases, Rhuleave-K® delivered faster relief
A LEADER IN NATURAL EXTRACTS
With more than three decades of experience, Arjuna Natural is a leader in natural extracts for health and sustainable livinga. The company is committed to innovation, quality and scientific research, ensuring that products like Rhuleave-K® meet the highest global standards.
Arjuna Natural's facilities are GMP-certified and hold multiple certifications, reflecting the manufacturer’s dedication to excellence in natural health solutions.
than the placebo, beginning as early as 40 minutes after consumption.
EMPOWERING WOMEN'S HEALTH
For women experiencing primary dysmenorrhea, Rhuleave-K® offers a natural and effective solution to alleviate menstrual discomfort. A study published in the Journal of Clinical Medicine in 2023 confirmed Rhuleave-K®'s efficacy in managing menstrual pain, providing 12.6 times better relief than a placebo.
Rhuleave- K® is available in South Africa from Brenntag SA. •
Arjuna Natural – arjunanatural.com Brenntag SA – www.brenntag.com/en-za
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Coschem conference explores cosmetic wellness
On 11 and 12 September, cosmetic chemists, formulators, brand owners, product managers and ingredients distributors gathered at Blueberry Hotel in Johannesburg for the Coschem Scientific Conference.
Themed ‘Cosmetic Wellness – The Age of Beauty’, the conference provided a fantastic platform for collaboration and innovation within the South African cosmetic industry. It also offers delegates an incredible experience filled with insightful sessions, excellent networking opportunities, and access to suppliers who partake in the exhibition. Furthermore, delegates had access to poster presentations, which showcased research in skin and hair typology, sun protection factors, and biological impacts of UV exposure.
SUNSCREENS AND SKINCARE
This year’s conference was opened by Coschem President, Johrinda Nel (Vantage South Africa), and it was MC’d by Beverley Gardner (Skyem Consulting).
Johrinda also chaired session one, which kicked off with Frederic Serres of Givaudan (France), presenting on Polygonum tinctorium Leaf/Stem extract. This green fractionation extract is an ingredient that has mood enhancing benefits like the beneficial properties of the sun, which enhances vitamin D production.
Nazia Kera of the CSIR’s Centre for Nanostructures & Advanced Materials (South Africa) presented on the synthesis and characterisation of 2D ZnO (zinc oxide) microplatelets for the application of UV filters in sunscreens.
Juan Cebrián of Lubrizol (Spain) discussed the use of a cellulose material, which, when combined with cationic polymers, can be used as a suspension stabiliser for sprayable hair care formulations, providing additional conditioning benefits.
ECZEMA AND ANTI-AGEING INGREDIENTS
Poonam Sewraj of L’Oréal South Africa chaired the second session. Kutlwano Molema of L’Oréal Research & Innovation (South Africa) discussed a study aimed at understanding how well different sunscreens protect skin from the damaging effects of the sun. The results
showed that the sunscreen with stronger UVA protection was much better at preventing damage to the skin, even though it had a lower SPF than the other sunscreen.
"The conference provided a fantastic platform for collaboration"
Marizé Cuyler of University of Pretoria (South Africa) shared a presentation entitled Get instant Gratification from Innovative Active Ingredients for Skin Even Tone. This study looked at a plant called Juncus lomatophyllus spreng. (JL) and its potential to treat eczema. Eczema is a common skin condition that causes inflammation and redness. The study found that JL extract was effective in reducing TNF-α production, which could help calm down the immune response in eczema.
Representing JAKA, Robyn Brown of Botanichem (South Africa), discussed The Study of a Palmitoyl Oligopeptide Complex as a 3D Anti-Ageing Theory. This research focuses on the anti-ageing benefits of Palmitoyl Oligopeptide Complex, which is a combination of small peptides derived from collagen. The study found that the complex has a remarkable three-pronged effect on the skin by boosting the renewal of skin cells, strengthening the skin structure and repairing skin.
Juan Cebrián of Lubrizol (Spain) presented on Metabolic Stress Inflammation Modulation by Hydrobiome-Derived Bacillus Ferment. Sensitive skin often suffers from inflammation, which can be triggered by various factors like pollution, stress, and even an unhealthy diet. This is where bacillus ferment ingredient can help by reducing inflammation, fighting sugar damage and cleaning up cellular waste.
A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO SKINCARE
Session three was chaired by Lee-Ann Raaff of Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University (South Africa).
Percy Sibanda of L’Oréal South Africa discussed the AfCTFA treaty and how it is set to open doors to Africa for cosmetic products made in South Africa.
Beverley Gardner interviewed Dr Juanita Killian of Dr K (South Africa) on the trends and developments in skincare and cosmetics. Dr K advised that the industry should be exploring beauty in a holistic way, including the gutbrain connection which influences the skin and its microbiome.
Amit Nandgaonkar of Seppic Research & Innovation (France) highlighted brown seaweed extract and how can assist in skin firming. This extract is produced through an eco-designed process to extract SQDG.
Chrizé van den Heever of Nelson Mandela University (South Africa) focused on the nanoencapsulation of bioactive compounds extracted from olive pomace via an optimised microfluidic flow method. The nanoliposomes showed good potential for use in topical skincare formulations.
Givaudan’s Frederic Serres took to the podium again to discuss the benefits of Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, a skin illuminating prebiotic that is crafted from green tea using a unique bioactive process.
Day 1 concluded with a rooftop cocktail party where guests savoured delicious sushi and enjoyed a magical Joburg sunset with the most amazing views of the west and northern parts of the city.
MOOD-BOOSTING INGREDIENTS
Stephanie Gompel-Ratsiane of dsm-Firmenich (South Africa) chaired the fourth session, marking the start of day two of the conference.
Phumelele Kleyi of CSIR (South Africa) delved into the benefits 2D layered nanostructures have on the delivery capabilities of cosmetic products. Layered double hydroxides are nanostructures that have extraordinary physiochemical properties, which can be used for encapsulation.
Marcel van Rooyen of Symrise (South Africa) discussed the impact of environmental factors
on the skin and market trends addressing thermoregulation and heat induced damage. Many of these claims are supported using neurotechnology in consumer studies. This technology analyses the mood and overall well-being of respondents at a given time.
Venla Saaristo of Croda Beauty Actives (France) reiterated the prevalence of sensitive skin and the need for holistic well-being. A wellbalanced combination of peptides and extracts developed by Croda Beauty Actives showed good results in improving puffiness, wrinkles and the overall self-esteem of respondents.
SENOLYTIC SCIENCE AND CERAMIDES
Session five was chaired by Charmaine du Preez of Chempure (South Africa).
Aurélie Barba of dsm-firmenich (France) presented on senescent cells, often referred to as ‘zombie cells’, which may accumulate over time and contribute to tissue damage. An extract of Epilobium fleischeri was highlighted as a natural senolytic which can selectively eliminate these harmful cells.
Artur Martí Peraire of Evonik (Spain) discussed recent research on a synergistic combination of natural plant oils, vegetable cholesterol, palmitic acid and Ceramide NG, designed to replicate the essential lipids found in hair. This blend significantly enhances hair strength, elasticity and overall hair health,
addressing the depletion of vital lipids caused by daily grooming.
Philip Labuschagne, a principal researcher of CSIR (South Africa) discussed the development of green micronisation and microencapsulation technologies using supercritical carbon dioxide (sc-CO₂ ). The green pilot facility at the CSIR uniquely utilises sc-CO₂ as a solvent, providing an inert environment that is ideal for microencapsulating sensitive actives such as probiotics, proteins, enzymes and phytogenics.
LIVELY PANEL DISCUSSION
HIGHLIGHTS
TRENDS
Chaired by Marcel van Rooyen, session six kicked off with a presentation by Aeysha Jakoet of Symrise (South Africa) on Next Generation Green Technology for Deodorant Effectiveness. This 100% bio-based ingredient proves to provide strong odour protection when tested in-vitro, in-vivo and ex-vivo. The powerful plant-based deodorant ingredient can provide 48-hour odour protection when used alone as an active.
Julia Mencke of Berg + Schmidt (Germany) presented on Transparent Oil Thickening – A New Solution to Naturally Modify the Rheology of Cold-Processed Oil-Gels.
The combination of olive squalane, hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate and a copolymer of hydrogenated castor oil with sebacic acid has shown to be highly suitable for use in cosmetic formulations.
The scientific presentations were followed by an interesting panel debate facilitated by Beverley Gardner. The debate focused on key themes such as microbiome, ingredient
transparency, cosmetic industry regulations, and the role of artificial intelligence (AI) in the cosmetic industry. Panellists included Dr Juanita Killian, Robyn Brown, CTFA’s Nadia Rashid (South Africa), Evonik’s Jacques Strydom (South Africa), and The Circular Stage’s Julia Tew (South Africa).
Panellists highlighted the importance of understanding the skin microbiome for product formulation. Concerns were raised on the lack of standardised methods for microbiome testing in cosmetic products, and the need for further research to substantiate claims.
The discussion also touched on delivery systems that enhance skin penetration of active ingredients. Participants noted the importance of formulating products that maximise efficacy while maintaining skin safety and transparency. Looking at legislation updates, ingredients like retinols, kojic acid, arbutin and tranexamic acid will soon be dosage regulated. Brands will have to adjust their formulations and labelling on products to meet these requirements. Panellists agreed on the need for regulatory frameworks to protect consumers and ensure product efficacy.
The debate also tapped into the use of AI in the cosmetic industry, especially within the raw materials and ingredients space. The panel conversations provided valuable insights into the evolving landscape of cosmetic ingredients and their implications for the industry. •
Coschem – www.coschem.co.za
Highlights of the Coschem Scientific Conference
2024 Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week a great success
The annual Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week, from 16 to 21 September, marked its 28th year of bringing together communities, businesses, and schools to raise awareness about waste management and environmental care.
The week culminated in the International Coastal Clean-Up (ICC) Day on 21 September, with hundreds of volunteers clearing litter from beaches across the country.
Douw Steyn, sustainability director of Plastics SA, said there was unprecedented support and participation for this year’s campaign.
“Thanks to generous contributions from our sponsors, we were able to print and distribute a record-breaking 800 000 bags to clean-up coordinators nationwide. We are immensely grateful for the contributions and support we’ve received from the plastics industry, various brand owners, PROs, logistics companies, and NGOs. Their commitment has been vital to the ongoing success of Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week,” Steyn commented.
SOUTH
AFRICANS STEP UP TO THE CHALLENGE
Plastics SA received an overwhelming response to its call for volunteers to clean up the environment, with over 50 audited cleanups taking place across the country. These were organised by schools, NGOs, municipalities, businesses, industry roleplayers, and community volunteers who were all eager to make a difference where they work, live or play. Beach clean-ups were
coordinated along the entire South African coastline, ensuring widespread participation. Volunteers braved challenging weather, particularly in KZN, where rainy conditions failed to dampen the enthusiasm of participants. One of the highlights this year was the personal involvement of Deputy Minister of Forestry, Fisheries, and the Environment, Narend Singh, who attended the beach cleanup at Durban's Cutting Beach. In Cape Town, major clean-ups took place at various sites around the city, including the Milnerton Beach lagoon where around 400kg of waste was cleared from the beach on Saturday and 394kg on Sunday thanks to Save a Fishie and volunteers who worked their way through clothes, bottle tops and nappies. Captain Fanplastic organised a clean-up of the Liesbeeck River, which Plastics SA sponsored with a schools toolkit in honour of ICC.
Did you know?
A competition was also introduced during this year’s Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week, inviting individuals and community groups to showcase their recycling actions or cleanup efforts. The winners of the various categories will be announced in October.
Despite the challenges, such as the cost and logistical complexity of delivering bags across the country, the Sustainable Seas Trust and Plastics SA worked tirelessly to ensure that all coordinators received supplies on time.
"Our provincial and ICC coordinators are the real stars,” Steyn said. "They ensure that all bags are distributed to schools, municipalities, and volunteers.”
DEDICATED TO BUILDING A CLEANER FUTURE
Plastics SA continues to work closely with packaging PROs, providing education, infrastructure, and training to waste collectors, which adds value to collected materials.
“The Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week has proven to be an impactful educational tool in promoting recycling and environmental care. While the primary focus is on cleaning beaches, rivers, and roadsides, the event also encourages people to recycle at home, school, and work,” he added.
However, despite the campaign's successes, challenges remain. Many cleanup sites lack facilities or collectors capable of processing recyclables, meaning that some collected waste inevitably ends up in landfills. While volunteers are encouraged to recycle, sorting materials during these short cleanups is often difficult. Efforts are underway to ensure that waste collectors receive cleanup bags and extract recyclable materials before the remainder is sent to landfill.
“The Clean-Up & Recycle SA campaign continues to raise awareness about the critical importance of recycling and environmental conservation. With ongoing efforts to strengthen infrastructure, increase public participation, and provide education, Plastics SA and its partners are dedicated to building a cleaner, greener future for South Africa,” Steyn concluded. •
Plastics SA – www.plasticsinfo.co.za
Douw Steyn, volunteers and Deputy Minister Narend Singh at Cutting Beach
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