Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review September 2018

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

September 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 9

www.pharmacos.co.za

Reshaping the perception of beauty

CURLS & WAVES How to care for textured hair 2018 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION Feedback from the judging day Contract manufacturers with a competitive edge

COSMETIC SOLUTIONS

SKINCARE / PERSONAL CARE / FRAGRANCE / COSMETICS

YOUR BRAND + OUR COSMETIC PRIVATE LABEL MANUFACTURING EXPERTISE = YOUR MARKET INNOVATION Call us for your cosmetic needs… from formulations & cosmetic packaging to third party manufacturing EMAIL: info@sdkagencies.com OFFICE: +27 11 314 0020 I FAX: +27 11 314 3499

WE BRING YOUR BRANDED COSMETIC IDEAS TO LIFE

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

September 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 9

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

Financial results at Evonik exceed expectations

Crodarom and Sederma go carbon neutral

16

Vital Health Foods

14 EVENTS

Wacker promotes new silicone technologies in SA

16 CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

Go for GMP compliance, choose Vital

New ownership and a fresh focus for SDK

24 ETHNIC CARE

30

Manage curls with

Embrace sensory science with Cithrol PGTL

Meet the beauty needs of a diverse market

A proven solution to manage curls and waves

Repair and strengthen textured hair with Ama-prot

Botanical actives and the natural hair trend

Why glycolic acid is also good for hair

Sensient Technologies acquires Mazza Innovation

Reduce frizz with coconut-avocado hair milk

Ama-prot 40

gets creative

38 PHARMA FOCUS:

SUPPLY CHAIN & DISTRIBUTION

Cleaning

Logistics and its critical role in the fight against Aids

40 HOME CARE

Private label brands and new innovations

43 The latest from Omron’s Innovation Conference

41 44 Filling & Sealing Equipment

MGSA Consulting rebrands

46 Sustainable Packaging

& Practices

Recycling – a crucial link in the value chain

48 ASSOCIATION NEWS

The latest developments from the AMA and Coschem

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM

curls

Crazy for

T

EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Contributors: Carolina Lourenco, Karen Maier, Adelino Nakano, Marcia Paula, Gerhard Schmaus, Gabriele Vielhaber.

he Ethnic or textured hair category

business into an innovative, technology driven

ADVERTISING

has become a massive industry

and customer centric company.

Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za

driven mainly by consumer demand.

Women and even men with curly,

Pharma supply chains have become more complex than ever. To improve patient

Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za

wavy and coiled hair have been frustrated for

access and achieve healthcare goals, new

years at the lack of products on the market to

distribution models are tabled regularly. In

meet their unique needs. This has changed

fact, modern pharma supply chains have

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za

with brand owners realising these consumers

become a crucial weapon in the war against

INTERNATIONAL SALES

purchase far more products than their straight-

Aids. Imperial Health Sciences’ successes in

haired counterparts.

this regard is celebrated on page 38, with a

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de

In this edition of P C Review, we’ve put

look at how the company supplies sustainable,

textured hair first, in our extensive Ethnic hair

affordable and quality medicines to the

care section on page 24. The feature includes

people of Africa.

a series of articles that focus on proven

This month, our regular PACKAGING

technologies and ingredients to help manage

REVIEW section has a variety of interesting

natural curls and waves, care for the scalp

reads. Aarifah Nosarka attended Omron’s

and maintain hair styles such as afros, braids

Innovation Conference in August. She shares

and weaves.

a local perspective on Industry 4.0 and

For all the brands that entered our New Product Competition sponsored by Symrise and MCC Labels, we know you’re dying to

CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM

on page 43.

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

MGSA’s rebrand and restructuring of the company are featured on page 44 along

we can’t reveal the winner just yet, we have

with some of the recent filling and sealing

shared an overview of the judges’ feedback

machinery innovations from Marchesini.

In the contract manufacturing feature on

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

i-Automation from the experts at Omron

find out the results of the judging day. While

and general findings on page 12.

Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

To offer more valuable content and increase dialogue with our PACKAGING REVIEW

page 16, we track Vital Health Foods’ journey

readers, the brand has launched a dedicated

to becoming a leader in producing effective,

Facebook page. To join this community,

ethical and quality vitamins and health

search @packagingreview on Facebook

supplements. P C Review also has the scoop

and like our page for regular and

on SDK Agencies’ change of ownership. This

insightful updates.

prominent contract manufacturer underwent

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

a management buyout in 2017 and the

I hope you enjoy

Bridget McCarney

new owners have already transformed the

this edition!

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Consultant, drbaileys.com

Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

New solutions for

TODAY‘S PRESERVATION CHALLENGES THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALITY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE

Real beauty is on the inside. That is our reason to develop gentle ingredients for the skin to take care of your formulation. Our prime innovative preservative systems from the Nipaguard® range - COSMOS approved - pioneered by the inspiration of long lasting stability and sustainability market needs offers a cost-effective solution with superior performance.

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NEWS

EVONIK’S Q2 PRELIMINARY RESULTS EXCEED EXPECTATIONS IN THE SECOND quarter of 2018, Evonik increased its adjusted EBITDA to €742 million (prior year: €640 million). All three chemical segments contributed to the excellent operational business development, increasing their adjusted EBITDA as well as EBITDA margin compared to the same quarter of the previous year.

Sales increased to €3.9 billion in the second quarter (prior year: €3.6 billion), largely due to higher sales volumes and higher selling prices. Adjusted net income was €354 million, which corresponds to adjusted earnings per share of €0.76. The adjusted EBITDA margin rose to 19.2 percent, 1.5 percentage points higher than the same period of the previous year. The adjusted EBITDA and adjusted earnings per share are significantly above current market expectations (analyst consensus: €691 million, €0.70 per share).

As a result, Evonik was obligated to publish preliminary numbers on 2 August.

‘We are continuing to execute our strategy consistently,’ says Christian Kullmann, chairman of the executive board. ‘This is also reflected in our operational business development. In addition to the continuing strong demand in our growth engines, our strong

quarterly results show the first signs of success of our administration and sales efficiency programme.’

Based on its excellent performance in the first half of the year, Evonik has increased its outlook for the 2018 fiscal year and is now expecting an adjusted EBITDA of between €2.60 and €2.65 billion, previously projected between €2.4 and €2.6 billion.

The outlook for free cash flow has also been increased. Evonik projects a notably higher free cash flow for the 2018 fiscal year compared to 2017.

At €1.2 billion, sales in the Nutrition & Care segment were slightly above 2017 figures.

Adjusted earnings rose by 10 percent to €222 million (prior-year: €201 million). The segment has been able to significantly increase its adjusted EBITDA margin to 18.7 percent (same quarter of prior-year: 17.3 percent). This was achieved with a consistent focus on higher margin products, successfully passing on increased raw material costs and strict cost reductions, especially in animal nutrition and baby care. Significant sales increases were also reported in personal care, which benefited from considerably higher volumes and an improved product mix.

including improvement of hair gloss

amino acid with

6

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Crodarom and Sederma achieve carbon neutral manufacturing PART OF CRODA International, Sederma and Crodarom have become carbon neutral by investing in their manufacturing operations to reduce carbon emissions. This is also achieved by carbon offsetting through ClimateCare and a project in Indonesia, which protects the environment and improves people’s lives in the Rimba Raya area. The project drives forest protection and provides funding for community initiatives. Arnaud Fournial, MD of Crodarom and Sederma, comments: ‘The Rimba Raya project relies on funding from businesses like ours which take full responsibility for their carbon footprint. With sustainability being at the very core of the Croda Group culture and a high priority for many of our customers, I am very pleased the area will remain an important carbon sink as a result of our support. The area is also a biodiverse ecosystem and we will help to deliver environmental, social and financial benefits to the community.’ The Rimba Raya Biodiversity Reserve looks after 44 263ha of tropical rainforest and peat swamp and helps to protect 90 endangered species including the Borneo bay cat and the Bornean agile gibbon and orangutan, by funding a network of forest patrols to prevent encroachment by palm oil estates and illegal loggers. Funding is also used for reforestation efforts, which creates employment by paying communities for growing the seedlings required for reforestation.

In line with their strong social and environmental activities, Sederma and Crodarom continue to identify risks and opportunities by managing impacts with specific actions on raw materials sourcing and ‘green’ performance along their value chain and with the organisation.

These principles are shared with their stakeholders with the aim of connecting them on the premise sustainable values and encouraging them to adopt appropriate unity members comm by lled insta ls practices.• pane Solar area, within Indonesia’s Rimba Raya offset carbon where Crodarom and Sederma re teCa Clima gh throu ions emiss

STREET 1 Refresh & tone

4 A specialist in anti-ageing

New from African Extracts, the Advantage Misting Toner is formulated with antioxidant rich bioactive rooibos. Its bouquet of floral extracts moisturise and protect the

1

skin from environmental aggressors.

These include aloe vera for its soothing and calming properties, witch hazel to purify and minimise pores, chamomile to even skin’s tone and everlasting and daisy flowers for their anti-ageing and radiance inducing benefits. Visit www. africanextracts.com for more on this new product.

2 Supercharged skin care

Cosmetiq e offers a full range of skin care products rich in vitamin E and other anti-ageing ingredients.

The products are of exceptional quality, proven effective and were formulated in South Africa by the late Dr Harry Gordon. Vitamins E and C in Cosmetiq e products penetrate the skin’s surface to revitalise cells, improving texture and elasticity.

They also contain herbal allantoin to soothe and soften skin, especially after sun exposure. Azulen, an extract of the Chamomile plant, also soothes sensitive skin. Mucopolysaccharides and Propylenglycol are included in the formulations to retain skin’s moisture

AQ Skin Solutions products are

and maintain its resilience.

patented and formulated with human

Shop Cosmetiq e products online at

growth factor technology. The range

www.cosmetiqeantiaging.com.

includes the AQ Eye Serum, which has several smoothing peptides that help tighten sagging skin, smooth wrinkles and decrease the appearance of fine lines. The serum also assists with micro-circulation of the under-eye area, addressing bags and dark circles. For more about the brand and its offerings, connect with @ AQSkinSolutionsSA on Facebook.

3 Power shower body wipes

4

2

3

combined with neroli. Its charm is immediately apparent in the sophisticated notes of rose absolute.

Hers plays with the power of seduction as vanilla mixes with

is conveyed by sage at its aromatic

formulated to kill 99 percent of

heart. His incorporates Mane’s

known germs and odour causing

smoky Vanilla Jungle Essence, which

bacteria, keeping skin refreshed,

falls in love with the sugar-coated

clean and moisturised. This product

chestnut accord. Both fragrances

is available in a lightly fragranced or

are packaged in sensual bottles with

a fragrance-free variant, packaged

cleansing water is scarce.

and sparkling like a ripe raspberry

violet leaves. The confidence of his

are alcohol free and specially

and deliver an effective method of

from Armani. Hers is happy, delicious

cardamom, pink peppercorn and

for head to toe hygiene. They

the wipes are ideal for travelling

it’s YOU are new fragrance launches

the top notes made up of a mix of

Wipes are gentle and effective

Manufactured by NSP Unsgaard,

Stronger with YOU and Because

musk. His boats a spicy accord in

Hygenix Touch Body Hygiene

in a tube of 40s wipes with a clip-lid.

5 New scents for YOU

5

rounded forms and curves.

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

7

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| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

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9

COMPANY FOCUS

We’re making it big in Africa!

IMCD South Africa continues to grow in the African market. All East African business operations are overseen by IMCD Kenya, which has developed an excellent reputation among customers for its one stop shop solution.

P C Review looks at what makes IMCD Kenya a reliable supplier.

Categories to watch

another interesting one to watch and, of

In the East African market, the Ethnic hair

course, we still receive requests for skin

care category is a major growth vector.

lightening products.

Yet there’s a definite move away from

Abdi says there is a lot happening in terms

T

of product development with a general

hydroquinone towards safe ingredients that

move towards products formulated with

don’t damage the skin,’ he comments. A

natural oils.

light and pure complexion is perceived as a sign of beauty in most parts of the world,

The natural hair care movement is o expand its existing operations in

growing with consumers embracing

including South Africa. Belides ORG from

Africa, IMCD acquired Chemicals

their curls and afro hair. This is seeing

CLR Chemisches Laboratorium, an IMCD

and Solvents in 2016. Today, this

an increased demand

principal, is a natural skin lightening agent

operation is known as IMCD Kenya,

for products that aid

derived from Bellis perennis,

which has established a strong position in

manageability and nourish

the organic daisy flower. It

the East African region. Based in Nairobi,

and nurture the scalp, like

is suitable for any skin care

IMCD Kenya distributes ingredients to

the Triple Action Scalp Fluid

formulation developed to

the personal care and cosmetics, home

formulation from IMCD

provide an even and luminous

care and I&I, food and pharmaceutical

South Africa featured in

complexion and radiant skin.

industries, serving Kenya and the

Table 1. Manufacturers

neighbouring markets of Uganda, Tanzania,

are still producing relaxer

Rwanda and Ethiopia. It also benefits

products yet there is a

from the robust international network and

notable shift away from

cross-fertilisation of technical expertise and

sodium hydroxide, also

market knowledge of IMCD to realise its full

known as lye, to calcium

business potential.

hydroxide, which is milder on the hair and

in melanogenesis, encompassing the

scalp. ‘The male grooming category is

reduction of cellular signalling, tyrosinase

The company’s commercial manager,

The action of the active is based on a potent,

IMCD Kenya’ commercial manager, Faisal Abdi

multifaceted reduction in the activity of melanocytes.

Belides ORG influences different cellular pathways involved

Faisal Abdi, heads the IMCD Kenya office and is supported by several technical sales managers who are responsible for the various business units. ‘IMCD Kenya is a market leader in the industries it serves,

Table 1: Triple Action Scalp Fluid

PHASE

INGREDIENTS (TRADE NAMES)

A

Water

INGREDIENTS (INCI)

% W/W 81.99

Vanzan

Xantham Gum

multinationals and leading manufacturers

Trisodium Citrate Dihydrate

Sodium Citrate

0.10

in Nairobi and surrounding areas are

Glycerin

Glycerine

5.00

Decaglyn 1 L

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

3.00

Vitamin F Forte

Linolei Acid, Linolenic Acid

0.50

Tocomix L70-Ip

Tocopherol Rich Extract, Sunflower Oil

0.01

Follicusan Dp

Water, Alcohol Denatured, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Milk Protein, Lactose, Inositol, Acetyl Cystein, Acetyl Methionine, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid

5.00

Syricalm

Water, Phragmites Communis Extract, Poria Cocos Extract

3.00

Optiphen 200

Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol

0.80

Naoh 10%

Water, Sodium Hydroxide

0.30

including personal care. Most of the

our customers,’ says Abdi. ‘We have an excellent reputation for providing reliable

B

ex-stock supply. We offer a one stop shop solution for broad range of speciality chemicals and food ingredients.

C

Our customers enjoy solid technical support from our technical sales team, which is extended to the IMCD application labs, particularly the Ethnic Care Centre of Excellence in South Africa and our key principal suppliers.’

10

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

D

0.30

COMPANY FOCUS personal care, cold mixing shampoos for example in temporary shelters, kiosks or even in the open. While Jua Kali is not heavily regulated, Abdi says it’s a strong market.

A market leader IMCD Kenya has maintained a strong position as a leading distributor serving the home care and I&I, personal care, pharmaceutical, food and nutrition industries, with the addition of an industrial science business unit. ‘We will continue to build on our success by offering customers comprehensive support along with the reliable supply and formulation development for which IMCD is known globally. We are also strengthening our transcription, tyrosinase activity and

the region, along with the global pharma

human resources by recruiting more

melanosome transfer. These actions

manufacturer, GSK and a joint venture

individuals to boost our already strong

lead to even pigmentation and make

between Aspen and a Kenyan pharma

technical sales team and leveraging on

age spots less visible. CLR’s in vitro results

company. Kenya also has its own personal

the technical resources of the IMCD group,’

demonstrate that Belides ORG acts as a

care manufacturing companies, which are

he adds. IMCD South Africa will strive to

functional ingredient at different stages of

well equipped with automated technology

continue its African expansion using a highly

melanogenesis. By influencing pathways

and produce products to high standards.

strategic approach.

of action before, during and after melanin

Then there are medium and smaller sized

synthesis, Belides ORG effectively reduces

brand owners that produce products in

possible acquisition targets in regions where

skin pigmentation.

house, similar to those in South Africa. The

product gaps and opportunities have been

only way Kenya’s personal care industry

Extensive infrastructure

identified and in hubs presenting an agile

differs is there are no personal care

supply chain model and storage strength to

IMCD Kenya is unique to its sister company

contract manufacturers. There is a robust

support IMCD’s ‘just in time’ approach. •

in South Africa and the other parts of

informal market in Nairobi too, commonly

Africa as it manages its warehousing

known as Jua Kali, which means ‘hot/fierce

and distribution in house. The company’s

sun’ in Swahili. These small businesses or

infrastructure is extensive, with a modern

artisans serve many industries, including

This will be done organically and through

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com

warehouse, fleet of vehicles and administrative offices located in Nairobi.

The Ethnic hair care category is a major growth vector Since the 2016 acquisition, the warehouse has been upgraded in terms of its systems and processes, which was followed by IMCD Kenya securing its ISO certification.

‘More than 90 percent of our customers

An exterior view of IMCD Kenya’s administrative offices located in Nairobi IMCD Kenya’s warehousing infrastructure

are based in Nairobi, which puts us in an ideal position to maintain key customer relationships through on time and in time delivery of raw materials and samples,’ Abdi explains. ‘For the other 10 percent of customers in outlying areas, we outsource distribution.’ Nairobi is a major industrial hub for the East African region.

Abdi says the majority of multinational personal care manufacturers, like Beiersdorf and Unilever, are located in

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

11

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Have you ticked all the innovation boxes?

We received 20 entries for the 2018 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition, which were analysed on 2 August by an esteemed panel of judges. The judging day took place at Media Park, the home of New Media, in Auckland Park, Johannesburg.

By Abby Vorster

I

nnovation doesn’t require a complex concept. In fact, a simplified idea is more

Glover and Tony de Beer • Richard Weir, creative director of Gullan

likely to resonate with your target market

& Gullan Digital, who judged marketing,

than an overly complex one. Ultimately,

social media and brand execution.

a strong desire or need must be met in a new or unique way. In the cosmetics

An improvement on quality

context, innovation is measured by the

While the general feedback from the

complete offering. It’s a clear concept that

formulation judges was that there was ‘a

meets a need, ticks all the boxes in terms of

definite improvement on the 2018 entries

regulatory compliance and incorporates

compared to last year’s products’ the entries

advanced ingredients and sensory science

are still lacking in the area of novel or unique

into the product design.

ingredients. Brands seem to play it safe,

Packaging also matters – this should never be an afterthought. Packaging choices should form part of the new product

sticking to common ingredients and basic base formulations.

There were one or two entries that

Paris is calling!

While every product entered into the competition receives extensive exposure in P C Review, on our social media pages and online platform, www.pharmacos.co.za, the brand owner of the winning product receives a trip to in-cosmetics Global 2019. The international trade show for the cosmetics industry is taking place in Paris, France from 2 to 4 April. The prize includes flights, accommodation and entry into the exhibition.

The winner of the 2018 P C Review/ Symrise NPC will be revealed at the awards ceremony on 11 October, in Johannesburg.

development process and need to live up

stood out for their use of novel ingredients,

to the brand promise through the smart

yet this was not communicated on the

telling stories from as early as the 1920s and

combination of compatible components

packaging. This is the perfect example of

there is no reason for the storytelling to end.

and tactile finishes. These elements form part

a lost opportunity to promote a product’s

Be sure to make your story interesting, base

of the judging process for the P C Review/

uniqueness or sell the brand’s story.

it on a unique or novel ingredient, expert

Symrise New Product Competition. This year,

Because cosmetics, or the use thereof,

content or a brand promise on which

the panel of judges included:

involve the senses, brands need to pay more

• Robyn Brown, owner of Botanichem and

attention to the sensory evaluation of their

Elizna Hurter, manager of the chemist

products. The judges did wonder whether

Regulations in check

department at SkinChem Manufacturing

the technological limitations in our country,

It seems many brands have gone into

Laboratory, who judged formulations,

particularly for the smaller brand owners,

hiding when it comes to on-pack claims.

ingredients and product aesthetics

are a barrier to evaluating the sensorial

Yet a quick browse of the internet and

performance of a product to ensure it meets

social media pages shows brands

Percy Sibanda, scientific and regulatory

consumers’ expectations. Some sound

are using digital marketing platforms

affairs advisor of L’Oréal South Africa, who

advice for all brand owners, big and small,

to convey their major and often non-

assessed regulatory compliance

is to connect with your target market using

compliant messages to consumers. The

• industry consultant Jill Gardiner and

a relatable story. Beauty brands have been • packaging industry consultants, Zinplex Cosmeceutical Advert.pdfClive 1 2018/08/23 11:58:14

you can deliver.

advice from the judges is, it’s important to

Manufacturers of Cosmetic, Hair & Body Products

C

From Development to Production

M

Y

R&D, formulating and stability in our fully equipped laboratory • Small to large scale batches • Quality, efficient and friendly customer service • mark registered Customer confidentiality guaranteed with NDA’s in place.

CM

MY

CY

Production capabilities: Hair, Body and Skin Care, Liquid Sachet filling, Dry Product filling, Powders, Creams, Lotions, Butters, Gels and Oils.

CMY

K

Zinplex Cosmeceutical (Pty) Ltd. t: 086 111 9462 • f: 012 803 9283 • e: cosmeceutical@zinplex.co.za

12

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Terms and Conditions Apply

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION remember the regulatory requirements

Our marketing judge felt a lot of the New Product Competition entries

for product claims apply to digital

had mixed messaging across their various digital platforms, which

marketing and compliance must

becomes noise and can put off the consumer from wanting to

transcend all platforms. It was noted

know more.

long standing brands continue to comply with EU regulations, as the proposed regulations for the South

1

African cosmetics industry are still in draft format. And brands that entered last year and struggled with compliance, fared much better this year

Keep it simple, stay true to your brand’s story and make sure you can validate any major statements

in terms of their regulatory scores. For newcomers to the industry, regulatory growing

Keep it simple, stay true to your brand’s story and make sure you can

pains are a given, from an incorrect format

validate any major statements. Beauty consumers have evolved,

for the nominal fill and medicinal claims on

becoming highly educated on ingredients and claims. If you want

packaging inserts to on-pack spelling errors

them to trust your brand, give them solutions that work, fit their

and mismatched INCI listings. P C Review

lifestyle and offer value for money without necessarily being cheap.

has published a series of compliance columns

2

on all these requirements, giving the brand

Pick your packs well

owner complimentary access to qualified

Due to hefty minimum order requirements from local packaging

information, which would usually cost a fee

suppliers, most of the smaller brand owners are still looking to the Far

from consultants. All the columns are written

East for their packaging needs. Either local suppliers need to adjust

by regulatory experts, which assist brands on their

their minimums to support SMEs or China will continue to make a

journey towards compliance.

big profit from supplying packaging to the South African cosmetics industry. The quality of packaging manufactured in China continues

3

Honest marketing

to improve, making manufacturers from the region all the more

Brands need to remember they are competing on

favourable as reliable and affordable suppliers. For established

all platforms. Social media pages and websites

brands in a position to purchase larger volumes of packaging

for products or brands won’t sell themselves. They

from local suppliers, the judges noted a marked improvement in

require constant promotion, bearing in mind

the quality of their packing, particularly the PET packs and carton

consistency between your website, brand or

and board. ‘Producers are using the correct polymers for plastic

products and value proposition is key. Consumers

packaging which is very encouraging from an industry perspective,’

want brands they can believe in, so you can’t

the judges noted.

make sweeping statements on

There is still a gap in the market for more packaging innovation.

social media platforms and

With MCC Labels on board as the sponsor of the Packaging

websites with no substantiation

Category of the competition, P C Review hopes to close these

or customer testimonials.

gaps through education and awareness. MCC Labels has sponsored a special prize for the winner of the Packaging Category,

4

1: Richard Weir 2: Elizna Hurter and Robyn Brown 3: Tony de Beer and Clive Glover 4: Jill Gardiner and Percy Sibanda

including a site visit to its personal care labelling facility in Cape Town as well as insight into what makes packaging innovative. •

MCC Labels – www.mcclabel.com/south-africa Symrise – www.symrise.com

• Contract manufacture of bath/body/beauty/anti-ageing products • We have no brands of our own and therefore do not compete with our customers • Offer a turnkey operation from concept to launch of all products • Formulation development for local and international markets • Perform stability/micro testing for all products • Source new packaging locally and internationally • Sun protection

Tel: +27 (0)12 803 7999/+27 (0)12 803 0761/+27 (0)83 285 8830 Email: andre@serendipitytoiletries.com/ madelein@serendipitytoiletries.com | www.serendipitytoiletries.co.za

Serendipity.indd 1

2018/04/05 12:07 PM

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

13

EVENTS

The beauty of Silicones Wacker Chemicals Middle East, which oversees the Middle East and Africa regions, together with IMCD, hosted a technical workshop on silicone technology for the personal care industry.

T

1

he event took place at the Indaba Hotel

3526 VP improves the spreadability of

in Johannesburg and was organised

oils and has SPF boosting properties.

in cooperation with Wacker’s official distributor, IMCD South Africa. Wacker’s

He also shared tips on the best way to formulate with silicone resin

technical manager, Dr Feier-Iova, presented

elastomer gels. The ideal time to add

technological developments on how to

a silicone resin elastomer gel to your

achieve special effects in hair care, skin care

formulation, depends on the type

and makeup applications using the company’s

of emulsion. For o/w formulations,

BELSIL range of high quality silicones.

add the silicone resin elastomer

A natural protector

gel to the oil phase by heating and homogenising the emulsion. For w/o

Hair care products, ranging from shampoos

formulations, the silicone should be

and conditioners to treatments and styling

added after emulsification and once

products, are an indispensable part of

the emulsion has cooled. Dr Feier-Iova

consumers’ lives. Apart from the need to

advised workshop attendees to take

cleanse and style hair, damage protection

care when working with a gel based on a

is key, as we all have some degree of hair

volatile solvent and to always control the

damage. This can affect shine, manageability

temperature of the formulation.

and the hair’s general appearance.

Silicones have a long history of use in hair-

Made to look good

care applications because of their multiple

Key beauty products include a foundation

benefits. These include improved wet and dry

that gives perfect coverage or a lipstick

combing, manageability, conditioning and

that spreads evenly, leaving an attractive

heat protection. At the Wacker personal care

and long-lasting film. Without WACKER’s

workshop, Dr Feier-Iova discussed the extensive

BELSIL TMS 803, BELSIL P 1101 and

special effects and benefits of BELSIL ADM 8301

BELSIL WO 5000, it would be very

E, BELSIL ADM 6300 E, BELSIL P 1101 and BELSIL PF

challenging to achieve these and

200 in hair care applications.

other special effects in makeup and

BELSIL ADM 6300 E is a film-forming, non-ionic macro emulsion of an amino-functional silicone

BELSIL P 1101 is a silicone hybrid polymer for nail polish applications.

hair. It mimics the hydrophobicity of natural hair

It provides a very smooth film, good

and has been proven to provide colour and

surface adhesion properties, high

heat protection benefits.

scratch resistance and quick drying time. A versatile emulsifier for water helps stabilise pigment dispersions. In

benefits in skin care products. According to

a foundation formulation, it aids the

Wacker, silicone elastomer and resin elastomer

homogenous distribution of pigments and

gels (REG) are suitable for skin and sun care

imparts a velvety soft skin feel.

Similar workshops will take place in the future;

1102, BELSIL EG 6000 and BELSIL CDM 3526 VP

you may express your interest to attend by

during the workshop.

emailing info.dubai@wacker.com. •

BELSIL Reg 1102 is a unique silicone resin elastomer gel with a long-lasting effect, BELSIL EG 6000 is a non-resin elastomer gel that provides a unique silky touch and BELSIL CDM

14

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

4

in silicone oil systems, BELSIL WO 5000

BELSIL silicones offer a great variety of functional

products. Dr Feier-Iova discussed BELSIL Reg

3

colour cosmetics.

for improving seriously damaged thick or curly

Sound formulation advice

2

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com Wacker Middle East & Africa – www.wacker.com

1: The Wacker and IMCD South Africa teams 2: Kirsten Scott from Wacker was used as a model for the makeup demonstration 3: Colour cosmetics formulated with BELSIL TMS 803, BELSIL P 1101 and BELSIL WO 5000 4: Delegates who attended the event received a jam packed goody bag from Wacker and IMCD

VITAL HEALTH FOODS CONTRACT MANUFACTURING SOLUTIONS At Vital, we are more than just a contract manufacturer.

Our plant is a world class producer of Complementary Medicines and Health Supplements. We offer a full turnkey solution with a fully integrated Quality Assurance system. We are backed by cGMP accreditation (from SAHPRA, the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority), integrity, trust, quality, innovation and a high standard of service excellence & communication.

Our areas of expertise include but is not limited to: • Soft-gel capsules, two part capsules, coated/uncoated tablets, liquid and powder manufacturing • Various forms of packaging options – doy, glass, plastic, blister, fill form & seal • Regulatory Experts • Research & Development: Formulation • Research & Development: Analytical • Quality Assurance • Quality Control

For more information, please contact us at: Telephone: +27 21 900 2500 Email: health@vital.co.za Website: www.vital.co.za Address: Lavender Lane, Kuils River, Cape Town 7580

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

Vital goes the extra mile on quality and ethics Vital Health Foods continues to inspire better health for families. As a leading, GMP approved contract manufacturer, the company is driven to turn customers’ ideas into a working reality. By Abby Vorster

W

hile its beginnings may

‘The original vision of the company

have been humble, Vital

still exists today,’ says Mark Stone, Vital’s

Health Foods (Vital) has

operations executive. ‘We’re extremely

grown from Africa’s first

proud to be the leading supplement

QC supervisor performing an API potency assay on a HPLC

Capabilities and packaging formats

health foods company into a household

manufacturer in Africa, with international

• soft gelatin capsules – pastes and oils

name. It was launched in Wellington,

exports and markets worldwide.’

• tabletting and tablet coating

Western Cape in 1974 by Jack Grieve, a

Vital’s brand heritage of 71 years

• hard gelatin capsules

serial entrepreneur and chemist, who

is based on quality products and

• liquids filling

was driven to bring improved health and

ethical manufacturing, making it a

• rice and corn cakes

wellness to South African families.

trusted partner for all your contract

• plastic and glass containers

manufacturing needs.

• doy packaging

The plant is now based in Kuilsrivier and has recently undergone a full

‘Initially the business specialised in

• blister packs • form, fill and seal.

refurbishment of the foods factory, while

soya-based goods and other nutritional

the pharma packing facility has been

supplements. It later introduced vitamins

revamped in line with cGMP and includes

and was one of the first companies to

the installation of a new blister line. New

produce soft-gel capsules as opposed to

quality and regulatory departments

soft gelatine technology has been ordered

the round, hard tablets,’ Stone explains.

with, amongst others, seven on site,

and will be commissioned in December.

It was around 2010 with the rise of

permanently employed pharmacists and

private label brands in South Africa

a food technologist who oversees quality

that Vital was asked to manufacture a

assurance and regulatory compliance.

dealer owned brand (DOB) on a third

Dr Anneli Heyns, Vital’s product

party basis. Today, DOBs make up a

development manager, comments: ‘Our

significant share of the business and

regulatory department has extensive

what was initially done as a favour, kick

expertise in the current regulatory

started Vital’s journey to grow its contract

requirements for complementary

manufacturing offering.

medicines, including discipline specific products. We can help customers achieve

Unmatched technical expertise

compliance by recommending the right

With the emphasis on healthcare

testing for a new product in order for a

shifting from treatment to prevention,

dossier to be submitted for registration

complementary medicines (CAMs), which

and can help maintain stability once

include herbals, vitamins, minerals and

a product is launched and routinely

other health supplements, have a crucial

manufactured. We can also provide

role to play in preventative healthcare.

suggestions on how to improve a

The key to success in this category largely

formulation and packaging in the

lies in quality and regulatory compliance,

case of a stability failure and provide

which ensure products deliver on their

possible reasons for the failure.’

promise in terms of quality, safety and Labelling machine on Vital's packing line

16

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Vital’s interpretation of the

efficacy throughout their shelf life.

guidelines for discipline specific

Vital has one of the country’s strongest

products are that all herbal

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

ingredients need to be stability tested

validation, pilot and manufacturing scale

up to the required shelf life. ‘New

trials with stability testing, regulatory

products require at least three months

support, distribution to the client’s

accelerated data and nine months

channel of choice according to Good

bench data at the time of submission

Distribution Practices, packing into bulk

in order to be registered,’ she adds.

or finished products and manufacturing

‘For health supplements, you need

according to GMP standards – all

to test the least stable vitamin in your

supported by an integrated

formulation as well as the least

quality system.’

water soluble vitamin and all

Vital was first GMP certified in

the organic minerals. In combination products, all herbal ingredients need to be stability tested as well as the least stable and least water soluble vitamin and all organic minerals.’

The company’s stability

DID YOU KNOW?

1986 by the then Medicines Control Council (MCC).

It has maintained its

Vital is South Africa’s number one branded vitamin. Many of our country’s well known health related brands and products are also made by Vital.

programmes are harmonised with the ICH quality guidelines,

MCC license and GMP certification ever since.

The manufacturing facility is also Halal approved and BRC certified for food safety standards. These

and its other certifications are renewed annually and Vital is

which require validated and qualified

regularly audited by its third

chambers at 25° Celsius and 60

party customers.

percent relative humidity, 30° Celsius

Capsule counter with Omega3 soft gelatine capsules

The GMP certification extends to

and 65 percent relative humidity for

Vital’s laboratory, which is also aiming

intermediate conditions and 40° Celsius

for ISO 17025 laboratory certification

and 75 percent relative humidity for

in 2019. Quality control manager, Dr

accelerated conditions. ICH guidelines

Gareth Bayley says Vital’s laboratory is

are also employed for shelf life

well equipped for multiple analytical

determination.

techniques. All outsourced testing

Vital foods' factory where mini rice cake poppers are produced

‘We are planning to purchase a

(microbiological) is done by a third

Zone IV B stability chamber, with 30°

party laboratory that is accredited

guarantee that our products are within the

Celsius and 75 percent relative humidity

by the South African Health Products

legal parameters. If it is on the Vital label, it is

conditions, which is required when

Regulatory Authority and is up to date

in the product.'

exporting to many SADC countries and

with regulatory requirements.

the Middle East. This chamber should be

‘Our in house testing capabilities are

As a future focused company, Vital’s first growth pillar is to maintain and

validated, qualified and up and running

extensive from wet chemistry testing

grow its leadership position in the

early next year,’ Dr Heyns adds.

to more high tech chromatographic

manufacture and supply of health

separation methods as well as dissolution

supplements in South Africa through

testing – study time lapse release for

leading edge innovation and deploying

extended bioavailability,’ he explains.

the latest technology. The second pillar

Inclusive, compliant and certified

will see step change growth coming

Working in strategic alliance with its customers, Vital has developed a

Poised for growth

from its food business as Vital expands its

dynamic contract manufacturing

The contract manufacturing business unit

offerings in this sector.

business model.

of Vital has evolved significantly and now

‘We offer a full turnkey solution,’ says Stone. ‘We can manage a customer’s

‘Our third pillar will leverage our

forms one of the three pillars of growth for

brand expertise to expand Vital’s

the company.

contract manufacturing business.

There is immense opportunity for Vital

entire value chain and our solutions

‘This area of the business, like the Vital

span multiple categories, including

and Wassen brands, is deeply entrenched

to grow in this area, as we provide

in ethics and years of expertise,’ Stone

turnkey solutions in a GMP compliant

comments. ‘Historically the CAMs industry

facility with extensive regulatory

was not well regulated. We continuously

support,’ Stone concludes. •

vitamins and mineral supplements, CAMs, foods, snacks and beverages. Our services include product development and testing, analytical method development and

test competitor products and it is surprising how often the ingredient level on the label

Vital Health Foods – www.vital.co.za

is not what is in the product. At Vital, we

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

17

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

Discover what’s possible with SDK Agencies

This business has stood the test of time since 1988. Over the past 18 months, SDK Agencies has undergone major changes since new shareholders acquired 100 percent of the business. Abby Vorster caught up with the new CEO, Zanele Mgidi-Mpande, to find out more about these exciting developments.

The SDK Agencies’ team

with local and international

ISO 22716:2007 accredited, ensuring

trends. ‘We use the latest raw

consistency in product quality and

materials in new product

performance. Mgidi-Mpande and her

development and stay

team are equipped to advise clients

ahead of the trends in skin,

on all their requirements, from market

hair and personal care, as

trends, packaging and banned

well as colour cosmetics,’

formulation ingredients to distribution

comments Mgidi-Mpande.

networks and the right price point for a

‘We don’t sell standard

brand or product.

formulations,’ she explains,

W

hile the company is best

‘because no one is a

A comprehensive offering

“standard client”.

SDK Agencies offers a turnkey

known for its expertise

with each client to

in manufacturing

understand their unique

colour cosmetics, the

needs and target

management change has brought about

market.' Having evolved

a fresh focus centred on client service,

from an agency into a

innovation in all product categories, a

fully fledged contract

deep understanding of both the Ethnic

manufacturer, SDK

and Caucasian markets and a unique

Agencies’ expertise

product offering.

is extensive.

SDK Agencies has become more

contract manufacturing service,

Instead, we work closely

DID YOU KNOW?

from product concept development to manufacturing, filling,

SDK Agencies follows a unique packaging and distribution. batch processing system.

It also provides bulk Running flow protecting batches manufacturing and filling is highly economical and client focused. solutions, as well as fine

Within its 2 800m2 manufacturing

fragrance filling. The company represents a leading fragrance company, based in Grasse, France,

relevant than ever. The company

facility in Midrand, Gauteng, its R&D

and has been importing fragrance

has updated its laboratory and

and production teams adhere to

compounds for the last 20 years. With

manufacturing technology, improved

international manufacturing and

its fragrance presses, fillers, crimpers

internal processes and keeps up to date

quality standards. The company is

and fragrance carton cellophane

Proud MICRO-BIOLOGICAL consulting and testing service to SDK. M.C.C. (Medical control council) authorised facility.

Contact details:

Physical Address: 50 Hennie Alberts Street, Brackenhurst, Alberton Tel: 011-867-2059 Email: labserve@mweb.co.za www.labserve.co.za

18

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING wrappers, SDK Agencies can create any fine fragrance or EDT for a client. Every step of the process, be it manufacturing or product development, is based on

A FRESH FACE BRINGS NEW DIRECTION

pillars of quality. Within its in-house state of the art laboratory, there are full time

July 2017

colour matchers on the team to colour

New shareholders takeover SDK,

match all colour batches while creams

resulting in new directors and a

and lotions are tested for all the normal parameters.

The company’s stability programmes follow standard industry protocols of four degrees Celsius, room temperature and 40° Celsius conditions, tested over a period of 12 weeks. SDK Agencies uses third party laboratories for micro, efficacy and SPF testing as well as claim substantiation, like moisturisation, antiageing and sun care claims.

‘Our clients range from large retailers with private label brands to smaller independent franchises and entrepreneurs, each with their own

new association established with Triton Pharmacare allowing the business to offer cosmeceutical product manufacturing.

February 2018 SDK Agencies rebrands, enhances its quality processes, simplifies its production

December 2017 The company purchases new machinery to increase its service offering and capabilities, including lipstick filling equipment and a triple roll powder press. New staff members with vast cosmetics industry experience are recruited to the SDK team.

processes and establishes a customer retention plan.

March 2018 SDK upgrades to a newer, more advanced inventory and accounts management system.

April 2018 onwards The company expands its customer pool and market offering within South Africa and beyond, targeting specific regions in Africa.

individual needs,’ says Mgidi-Mpande.

A trend setter Innovation is the primary business driver at SDK Agencies. ‘Our R&D team was the first in South Africa to develop a foundation stick formulated with baobab oil. It has also produced mascara formulations with baobab oil

and collagen and is working on a lip

includes pencils with a roller wheel

moisturiser that rebuilds moisture content

applicator, ergonomic pencils that

in the lip,’ she explains. ' Our strategic

offer an improved grip for better control

Innovation in the pencils category is one of our greatest achievements

during application and a brow pencil formulated with fibres to fill in eyebrows.

Different finishes can be achieved with pencils and our latest offering in this category is to formulate makeup pencils with Agave extract, to boost skin’s elasticity.’

The R&D team is also working on novel claims for primers, such as ‘blurring’

partnership with Schwan Stabilo – a

and ‘anti-redness’ and has developed a

leading global pencil manufacturer –

banana powder in two different shades.

allows SDK to innovate in the pencils

Deemed by the USA’s A-list celebs as

category. Our Schwan pencil range

‘the dark horse of makeup’, this finely milled, translucent setting powder has a

SDK Agencies’ new cosmetics powder compress machine

hint of yellow and is used to highlight the undereye area and the T-zone.

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

19

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

A PERFECT PARTNER FOR PACKAGING

your facility but if your formulations are outdated, the goal to innovate may be inaccessible,’ Mgidi-Mpande explains. ‘To ensure SDK always reaches its innovation target, we have updated our colour formulations to include added skin care

WITH 20 YEARS’ EXPERIENCE in contract

benefits. Our skin care formulations are high

manufacturing, SDK Agencies observed

tech and based on effective ingredients

the inefficiencies that exist between the

and raw materials.’

manufacturing element and procuring

In addition to the class leading ingredients

applicable cosmetics packaging.

and cosmetics technologies that stem Customer liaison team reviewing products

To bridge the divide, the company introduced Cosmetic Line, which specialises in sourcing and supplying packaging for colour cosmetics,

Ethical and sustainable

makeup, skin care, fine fragrance and toiletries.

The strong focus on innovation at SDK Agencies is

This effectively allows SDK Agencies to offer a

driven by the products it produces. ‘You may have high tech equipment in

one-stop shop to clients.

from Europe and the USA, the company is equipped to source a large range of natural oils and indigenous plant extracts from the African market.

With the consumer trends shifting more and more to natural and sustainable

Cosmetic Line’s showroom offers a

cosmetics and skin care products, SDK

comprehensive packaging offering due

Agencies ensures all the natural oils and

to its extensive database of suppliers

plant extracts it sources are not only

accumulated over many years.

responsibly harvested but also proven

The company represents a host of

effective and safe for use. The latter is

European and Asian principals,

essential to avoid product recalls and ensure

which specialise in glass and plastic

ethical brands remain at the forefront of the

packaging for all categories of the

South African cosmetics industry. Mgidi-

cosmetics industry.

Mpande is extremely passionate about ethical manufacturing and the South African

OUR SERVICES • Formulation • Registration • Blending Are you looking for a quality manufacturing partner for your CAMs, health products and functional foods? At Trinton Pharmacare – compliance, quality and safety have been our priority for almost two decades.

Our cGMP manufacturing facility is one of the largest in South Africa and is fully equipped to meet your needs. Our production facility is designed by the world leaders in probiotics for probiotic manufacture. Our customer centric culture puts our staff in a position to understand the unique requirements of every customer.

We also have the following accreditations: • cGMP • FSSC 22000 • ISO 22000.

• FDA approved.

• Granulation (wet and dry) • Tablet manufacturing and encapsulation • Liquids filling • Ointments filling • Packing (bottle, blister and sachets) • Laboratory and stability testing OUR PROMISE • Quality assurance • Raw materials testing • In process control • Finished product analysis

We can manage a diverse number of dosage delivery formats, which are synergistically matched to our innovative capabilities. Triton is well known – not only for delivering innovation but also within the industry for our quick turnaround times. Many of our customers remain in awe of how we bring their product aspirations to life. Triton is currently registered as a pharmaceutical complementary facility, operating within full cGMP guidelines, and has ISO and FSSC 2200 accreditations, which are crucial for manufacturing functional foods.

Contact us today for your new product development and manufacturing and packing needs.

Tel: +27 11 314 2196 | Fax: +27 86 664 2196 | Email: info@tritonpharma.co.za

20

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

Lab team testing fragrances

packaging like airless packaging, which is only produced overseas, so we use international suppliers to source items not available locally.’

Mgidi-Mpande feels the South African and sub-Saharan African markets are underserviced in terms of skin and hair care products suited to the specific needs of local consumers. She believes long term, sustainable partnerships between industry SDK Agencies' pencil offering – African woman theme

cosmetics industry. She is driven to ensure her clients’ brands thrive, both locally and internationally. ‘We support the local industry as much as possible, sourcing what we can from South African suppliers.

There are some challenges with specific

players are crucial to ensuring a flourishing cosmetics industry.

‘The local supply chain, especially contract manufacturing, needs to be maximised to make good quality skin and hair care products available to consumers at an affordable price,’ she concludes. •

WHAT’S ON OFFER AT SDK? • colour cosmetics • skin and personal care products • African oils and natural extracts • imported bulk cosmetics products • packaging for cosmetics from its sister company, Cosmetic Line • fragrance oils and filling services • distributor and finishing partner of Schwan Stabilo Cosmetics • white label and brand distribution • parallel importing • gifting, novelties and accessories for cosmetics.

SDK Agencies – www.sdkcosmetics.co.za

Proud Supplier to SDK Chemsystems a div of AECI

ChemSystems (Pty) Ltd 200 Bergrivier Drive Chloorkop - South Afrca Tel: (011) 922 1600 www.chemsystems.co.za

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

21

COMPANY FOCUS

Six decades of

engineering excellence Anderson Engineering, a leader in the manufacture of customised stainless steel processing equipment, is celebrating its 60th anniversary. This major milestone highlights the company’s innovation, quality, outstanding workmanship and professionalism in the market.

O

ver the past 60 years, Hans Coertse, owner and MD of Anderson Engineering, says the business has developed

a solid reputation based on world class engineering solutions. Anderson Engineering has had the privilege of working with some of South Africa’s most high profile businesses and on world class projects.

It was founded in 1958 to manufacture stainless processing equipment for the dairy industry with its first client being Clover in Durban. The company went

Although this is a major milestone of six decades in business, the face of Anderson Engineering remains young engineering solutions for personal care

on to develop unique and innovative

finding a solution to the most complex process manufacturing challenges.

Culture of innovation Coertse has been at the helm of the company for the last 22 years and has been an integral part of the innovative culture and world class engineering focus. His deep passion for finding better solutions to clients’ manufacturing challenges constantly stretches the team. The company has always aspired to provide the best, customised solution on time and within budget, with minimal disruption to production. Key to the

and pharmaceutical processing. Over

company’s success is its ability to build

the last 30 years, its footprint has spread

long-term relationships with clients.

into Africa alongside the geographical

Anderson Engineering has delivered

growth of its long-standing clients.

manufacturing solutions to many of South

Anderson Engineering is known for its firsts

Africa’s largest chemical, cosmetics,

in process technology. These are a result

pharmaceutical, dairy and food and

of the company’s passion and culture

beverage manufacturers, many of whom

for seeking new and better solutions.

have worked with the company for several

Its turnkey solutions are of the highest

decades. The business ascribes to the

precision and quality standards, making

philosophy of ‘the way in which you

it the go-to engineering business for

treat your clients makes the difference’.

THE

Buyer’sguide

Anderson Engineering employs over 60 full

The three new fractionation vessels and supporting ancillary equipment, which Anderson Engineering installed at National Bioproducts Institute (NBI)

time staff, including qualified engineers,

draughtsman and technicians, with 2017/2018 years of practical experience. It also has its own workshop personnel, consisting

THE THE

Buyer’sguide Buye B ye y er’ r’s ’sg sguidee 2018/20199

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za 22

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

COMPANY FOCUS

NBI FRACTIONATION EXPANSION PROJECT IN MARCH 2016, Anderson Engineering was approached by the NBI to quote on the expansion of its existing fractionation plant. The request was subsequent to Anderson Engineering’s extensive turnkey installation of a fractionation plant in 2012. The new project involved the addition of three fractionation vessels and supporting ancillary equipment to the plant while balancing existing production. It commenced in January 2017 and was particularly challenging for a number of reasons. The three new vessels had to be integrated into an existing production facility

of machinists, boilermakers, coded

milestone of six decades in business, the

welders, fitters and electricians, who are

face of Anderson Engineering remains

responsible for the fabrication of the

young. Coertse explains: ‘We have

equipment. The company is proud to

consciously tried to employ talented

have continued an active apprenticeship

young professionals into the business, as

scheme for the last 14 years and has

well as train and nurture young people

successfully trained and qualified over

who show promise.’

15 apprentices.

The company is ready for the

The future looks bright The core values of Anderson Engineering

opportunities that lie ahead and committed to providing outstanding client service and design excellence. •

are respect, flexibility, positive attitude, honesty and commitment. This year, more so than ever, the company is celebrating these values together with its many accomplishments, legacy and momentum in the market. Although this is a major

Anderson Engineering – www.andersoneng.co.za

with total flexibility, whereby each batch follows multi-vessel sequencing. This had to be done without disrupting the ongoing manufacturing process and NBI’s stringent pharmaceutical protocols had to be observed. NBI has upgraded and improved its internal documentation and compliance requirements since Anderson Engineering first worked with the institute. Anderson Engineering was required to comply with these new standards and successfully completed the project at the end of April 2018.

Anderson Engineering’s dedicated team of employees

Food & Chemical Equipment Pty Ltd

Experts in turnkey solutions for the processing industry Our expertise: SASSDA Product Innovation Winner for the Anderson Contramix & Andpure Magnetic Mixer

• Full Turnkey solutions • Customised Stainless Steel processing equipment • Range of specialised mixing solutions for a wide variety of applications • Depth of experience in the Food, Beverage, Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic industries

TEL: +27 (0)33 387 1544 |

FAX: +27 (0)33 387 3923

|

WEB: www.andersoneng.co.za

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

23

ETHNIC CARE

Break the mould

with unexpected textures Recognising the demand for skin care products and colour cosmetics with great textures, Cithrol PGTL – Croda’s new w/o emulsifier – helps formulators include unique sensory benefits in hair and skin care products.

C

ithrol PGTL offers outstanding efficiency and versatility. This high-performance system is a great alternative to

traditional PEG-based systems. It allows formulators to unleash their creativity by including unexpected sensory benefits in formulations. It also contributes to reduced environmental impact as it can be formulated using a cold process.

Water in oil (w/o) formulations have

Even though it's loaded with oils, it won't weigh down the hair

the versatility of Cithrol PGTL, Croda developed a rich oil moisturiser. This rich moisturiser has an amazingly light feel.

Even though it’s loaded with oils, it won’t weigh down the hair.

This stable formulation is enriched with various emollients and natural oils that impart softness and sheen to the hair.

Crodamol IPM and Seatons Coconut

A versatile system

many advantages, such as greater

It’s a common misconception that w/o

Oil impart beautiful shine. Seatons Shea

wear resistance, a richer skin feel and

emulsions are always thick, heavy and

Nut Butter will provide nourishment and

the improved deposition of actives. Yet

sticky. With Cithrol PGTL, the formulator

conditioning to dry and brittle hair. See

formulating these emulsions can have

can get creative and experiment with

Table 1 for the formulation guide.

certain drawbacks.

a large variety of formulation types and

For example, there may be difficulty in achieving stable, thick, fluid-like and low

sensorial textures.

This high performance system is ideal

Mild and sustainable Cithrol PGTL takes into account several

viscosity formulations with a light skin feel.

for creating cost-effective high internal

burning issues, including sustainability, skin

However, with Cithrol PGTL formulators

phase (HIP) emulsions that impart a light,

sensitivity and environmental impact.

can overcome these challenges - and

non-oily skin feel.

It is 100 percent bio-based; manufactured

thanks to its flowable format, it's easy to

Additional applications include more

without ethoxylates, propoxylates or PEG

use. Cithrol PGTL is effective at low usage

fluid, sprayable formulations; traditional

and cold processable (though this is

levels and doesn’t require the addition of

thick, rich creams and colour cosmetics,

formulation dependant).

a co-emulsifier.

such as foundations. To demonstrate

Phase

Ingredient/INCI Name Water Deionised (Aqua)

A

B

C

% w/w 65.40

water. In a panel study, Croda assessed the mildness of Cithrol PGTL at a three

Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate

0.80

percent concentration versus other

Pricerine 9091 (Glycerin)

2.00

w/o emulsifiers. When comparing the

Crodamol IPM (Isopropyl Myristate)

2.00

mildness of Cithrol PGTL to other w/o

Seatons Shea Nut Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter)

3.00

emulsifiers in a simple emulsion, there

Syncrowax BB4 (Synthetic Beeswax)

3.00

was no significant difference to the

Crodacol CS50 (Cetearyl Alcohol)

2.00

control. Cithrol PGTL had comparable

Seatons Coconut Oil (Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil)

5.00

mildness and showed significantly less

Cithrol PGTL (Tri(polyglyceryl-3/lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate)

3.00

skin erythema and protein content (skin

Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum)

8.00

flaking) to that of the water control. •

Petroleum Jelly (Petrolatum)

5.00

Euxyl PE 9010 (Ethylhexylglycerin (And) Phenoxyethanol)

0.80

Table 1: Rich oil moisturiser for African hair (ZA-0096)

24

The mildness of the system has also been proven to be comparable to

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com

ETHNIC CARE

The face of beauty is changing Innovative ingredients are the route to effective product customisation. Karen Maier, Merck’s head of performance materials in South Africa, shares ideas to help formulators better meet the hair and skin care needs of a diverse market.

T

here has been a big move

can safely and gently even out

toward customisation in the

their skin tone. With its excellent skin

scalp, RonaCare Salicylic Acid and

cosmetics industry, with brands

lightening properties, it has been

RonaCare Allantoin are the go-to

seeing people as individuals with

proven to safely bring about

individual needs. While new products are

a significant reduction in

being formulated to cater to this trend, it’s

pigmentation. Due to

important to recognise the differences in

its strong anti-oxidant

the skin of diverse Ethnic groups.

properties, Emblica

People with a specific skin tone have common concerns that formulators should address when developing new products.

With a modern skin brightening active like Emblica, women can safely and gently even out their skin tone

To address dandruff and a flaking

ingredients. They gently

DID YOU KNOW?

exfoliate and soften the scalp while dispersing existing flakes offering relief and enhanced

In a skin lightening comparison beauty with test between Emblica, MAP and re-occurrence no unsightly Kojic acid, Emblica was proven of UV induced skin shedding. efficient for different Ethnic skins. At dark spots. one percent, it produced similar or Hydration is To care superior skin lightening effects than achieved with two percent another important and protect Kojic acid or three topic in Ethnic skin While there are many percent MAP. care. The multi-talented singularities when it also prevents the

RonaCare Ectoin provides just the right amount of long lasting hydration and protection.

comes to different skin and hair types, we are more similar than we are different and the basics should never be overlooked.

Nourish and strengthen

Whatever the skin tone; need for

While there is a strong trend to

UV protection, moisture retention and

embrace natural hair styles, many

deep cleansing, caring for stressed

African women still turn to braiding,

and sensitive skin in our modern,

relaxing and wearing of wigs and

mostly polluted environment should

While lighter skins are prone to visible

weaves to enhance their natural

remain the main priority of the

signs of ageing – such as wrinkles, fine

beauty. These practices have a

cosmetics industry..•

lines and sagging skin – darker or Ethnic

significant impact on scalp health. This

skin types have their own set of unique

can cause an itchy, dry scalp and skin

challenges. Hyper pigmentation, greater

flaking, either due to dandruff or the

sensitivity to UVA and ambient light, a

mere shedding of very dry skin. Hair

compromised skin barrier that can lead

itself can end up dry, brittle and dull –

to transepidermal water loss and atopic

fortunately, there is a whole arsenal of

dermatitis are some of the issues.

ingredients to address these concerns.

It’s important to consider these issues

Emblica is not only good for skin but

when selecting ingredients for Ethnic skin

also nourishes and strengthens hair

care formulations.

from root to tip. When combined with RonaCare Nicotinamide, the complex

Even tone, hydrated skin

improves hair quality and assists in

One approach is to use a multi-functional

damage recovery.

active ingredient like Emblica. This 100

RonaCare Bisabolol offers a

percent natural extract with its cascading

particularly effective and completely

anti-oxidant properties will not only

natural way to soothe an irritated

protect against the ravages of pollution

scalp. Produced using a natural

and UV exposure but also address the

Bisabolol, this product is twice as

issue of hyperpigmentation.

effective as its synthetic equivalents

Gone are the days when women

on the market, guaranteeing twice

with darker skin felt pressured to

the impact when it comes to reducing

bleach their skin a lighter shade using

redness, soothing inflammation and

harsh chemicals. With a modern skin

irritation and protecting the scalp

brightening active like Emblica, women

against external aggressors.

26

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Merck – www.merck4cosmetics.com

ETHNIC CARE

New technology to control and care for curls SymHair Shape provides a solution to manage and care for curly and wavy hair. The system includes a combination of wheat bran extract, camellia oil and special emollients.

By Carolina Lourenco, Adelino Nakano, Marcia Paula, Gabriele Vielhaber and Gerhard Schmaus from Symrise’s Hair Care Center in Brazil.

I

n combing tests, we observed that

confirming the efficacy of SymHair Shape on

SymHair Shape contributes significantly

curly hair. Film formation, hair malleability,

to easing the combing process, in both

smoothness, shine and other important benefits

wet and dry conditions. Regarding

were evaluated against a placebo treatment.

mechanical properties, it increases hair’s

SymHair Shape demonstrated its superiority,

resistance and reinforces hair’s structure as

reaching positive scores for all endpoints.

the extension before breaking increased and the number of broken fibres was

Textured hair problems

significantly reduced after multiple combing

Curly hair is known for its challenges. It is

cycles. SymHair Shape also protects hair

characterised by its rough texture, the

from humidity, controlling the increase

high hair roots that result in increased

of volume as the hair dries.

volume, dry tips and weakness,

The expert evaluation results are

because its naturally thinner.

consistent with the instrumental data,

These make it more difficult to

FUTURISTIC ELEGANCE

RONASTAR® BLACK ALLURE THE NEW LUMINOUS MATTE Karen - Black Allure.indd 1

22.08.2018 10:32:32

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

27

ETHNIC CARE

0,10 0,08 0,05 0,03 0,00

-22% 0,0386

0,0498

SymHair Shape (Sh 0.1% / Cond 0.5%)

Placebo

Energy to comb (Joules)

Energy to comb (Joules)

Figure 1: Combability results in wet (A) and dry (B) conditions. Mean ± sd. *p<0.05

0,10 0,08 0,05

-23%

0,03 0,00

0,0390

0,0501

SymHair Shape (Sh 0.1% / Cond 0.5%)

Placebo

manage. Consumers with curly hair often straighten it to make

It’s all in the curl

it easier to manage, but this has several negative effects on the

The combability test showed the tresses treated with SymHair

hair fibres and scalp. The effects include irritation, increased

Shape required less energy for combing than the tresses

fragility and a loss of naturalness. To avoid these negative

treated with placebo formulations, in both wet and dry

effects, consumers are choosing to wear their hair natural by

conditions (see Figure 1).

maintaining and caring for their curls.

The resistance of the hair fibres was evaluated using two

SymHair Shape was created to care for curly hair, decreasing

methods. In the tensile test, the strength of the fibres treated with

its volume and frizz, improving hair’s health and making it easier

SymHair Shape was 57.18 percent more than those treated with

to manage.

placebo formulations (50.95 percent).

The shape of the curls was better maintained in the tresses treated with SymHair Shape This shows a statistically significant increase in resistance at 12 percent. The results show the shape of the curls was better maintained in the tresses treated with SymHair Shape, compared to the curl shape retention of the tresses treated with the placebo. The volume increase was moderate when compared to the placebo, showing a 16 percent reduction.

Scanning electron microscope images of the tresses treated with SymHair Shape show increasinly aligned cuticles and less cracks in the hair surface. Less lifting of borders is also evident, contributing to a better macroscopic aspect in the hair and its smoother texture.

SymHair Shape has been proven an efficient solution for various hair care applications. It contributes significantly to ease of combing as it helps to reinforce the hair structure, reducing the damage at surface level and helping to keep hair in good shape.

The expert evaluation is consistent with the instrumental data, confirming the efficacy of SymHair Shape on curly and wavy hair. •

Symrise – www.symrise.com

28

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

ETHNIC CARE

Ama-prot keeps curls from spiralling out of control

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking to develop a hair care product to better manage textured hair with intensive strengthening and repairing benefits, Ama-prot from Provital has been proven to keep hair healthy and more manageable.

O

ne of the most challenging

improve the combability and manageability

found in the seeds.

aspects of textured or Ethnic

of damaged hair. According to Provital, low

The protein fraction of the Amaranth is

hair is manageability. According

molecular weight proteins and peptides have

rich in essential amino acids and has a

to www.dryscalpgone.com,

the ability to penetrate the cortex. This makes

high amount of sulphur amino acids such

combing textured hair can lead to a loss

them ideal to repair, strengthen and protect

as cysteine and methionine, particularly

of important proteins which is why many

hair fibres from within.

suited to hair care applications. The lysine

natural hair care blogs advise consumers to

Several studies show peptides from

and arginine positively charged basic

detangle their hair using their fingers rather

protein hydrolysates can adhere to hair or

amino acids and high amounts of starch

than brushing or combing. This makes it less

even penetrate it. The size of the peptide,

polysaccharides provide hair with

likely to pull or break the strands.

its charge and the pH of the medium are

extra nutrients.

of fundamental importance. Because

Ama-prot reduced hair loss by 51 percent in comparison to the placebo

For the best results with Ama-prot, Pro-vital

Amaranth proteins have more positively

uses its exclusive 3D matrix technology

charged amino acids than other proteins,

for the sustained release of the peptides

they are able to bond to the hair more

and polysaccharides onto the hair. The 3D

efficiently (negatively charged under

structure is injected with Ama-prot, which

normal conditions and even more so when

forms a protective film on the hair fibre,

damaged). So, they provide better nutrition

ensures the sustained release and improves

than other proteins (Longo 2006; Silva 2007).

the distribution of the active ingredients, as well as prolongs their action time.

Grains with great benefits The seeds of the Amaranth have a great

Care under the covers

nutritional value with their protein content

Another interesting aspect of Ama-prot is its

Another way to improve manageability is

ranging from 13 to 18 percent. They are also

ability to overcome the hair care challenges

with Ama-prot, an aqueous extract of the

made up of eight percent unsaturated fatty

associated with regularly covering the

seeds of the Amaranthus caudatus plant,

acids, 29 percent oleic acid and 44 percent

hair. Many people cover their heads for

developed by Provital Group (Provital). It

linoleic acid, together with 64 percent starch.

different reasons, be it cultural, a fashion

is obtained using enzymatic hydrolysis, a

The high levels of leucine in the seeds acts as

statement, religious or, in Africa, to aspire to

technology exclusive to Provital. Distributed

an essential amino acid for protein synthesis.

the European standard of beauty by wearing

in South Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals,

Phosphorus, calcium, iron, potassium, zinc,

wigs and weaves.

Ama-prot contains a high concentration of

vitamin E, vitamin B complex and between

peptides and polysaccharides, which help

eight and 12 percent of squalene can be

30

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Constantly covering the hair with a hijab, hat, wig or weave can cause friction with

ETHNIC CARE

AMARANTH HAIR CARE COLLECTION AMA-PROT FORMS part of Provital’s Amaranth collection of active ingredients for hair care.

Ama-oil is the oily extract of Amaranth seeds which offers anti-humidity and anti-frizz benefits.

Ama-leaf is an extract of the aerial part of the plant which is rich in polyphenols and restores hair’s natural movement.

in Tunisia – countries where wearing a hijab is commonplace. In Indonesia, the study sought to evaluate hair volume and evolution of the cuticles measured by scanning electronic microscopy. The results showed Ama-prot visibly increased the hair volume of hijab wearers while sealing and repairing the cuticles, strengthening the hair and helping it to recover its shine and fluidity.

the hair fibres, weakening and damaging the cuticles (Lee et al. 2011). Friction between the fabric and the skin also generates electrostatic charges, believed to be responsible for inhibiting hair growth (Shafik 1993).

There is evidence that some of the materials used to manufacture hats, caps and other types of headgear can cause a thinning of the epidermis, affecting the hair follicle.

In Tunisia, a customer satisfaction survey was carried out and hair breakage, hair loss and elasticity were evaluated. The results showed Ama-prot reduced hair loss by 51 percent in comparison to the placebo and breakage by 11 percent in comparison to the placebo. •

Because users require specific hair products to counteract these side effects, Provital sought to assess the volumising, repairing, moisturising and refreshing benefits of Ama-prot. Two double blind in vivo studies were carried out, one in Indonesia and the other

Provital Group – www.provitalgroup.com/en Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

31

ETHNIC CARE

Ingredients to care

for natural hair

Suppliers like Botanichem are heeding the call for Ethnic hair care products that help consumers embrace their natural hair. There is a strong focus on botanical actives within this trend, with natural hair care becoming more of a ritual that involves cleansing and caring for fragile, curly hair.

T

he trend toward keeping hair natural

member of Botanichem. ‘Curly hair is more

rather than chemically straightening,

fragile than straight hair. Because it is tightly

braiding it or wearing extensions

coiled, sebum cannot travel down the hair

has pushed ingredient suppliers to

strand and dryness becomes an issue. Curly

A MESH OF MOISTURISING FACTORS

develop actives that enhance and protect

hair is also more susceptible to breakage and

natural hair. These actives also need to care

scalp damage.’ Tangling is another serious

for the scalp and encourage healthy hair

concern of Ethnic hair because the strands

growth. The Ethnic hair care market remains a

wrap around each other. Trying to de-tangle

DRY SCALP, just like dry skin, can be itchy and

lucrative market not only in South Africa but in

the hair causes further damage while pulling

uncomfortable. It is caused by dehydration, which

Africa. According to Euromonitor International

and tugging may also stress hair follicles,

results in the scalp becoming irritated.

the value of the wet hair products sold in

resulting in traction hair loss.

BASF Care Creation’s innovative ingredient PatcH2O

South Africa, Nigeria and Cameroon currently

provides a comprehensive solution to address

exceeds R12 billion with South Africa’s market

Shift to botanicals

for wet and dry hair care believed to be worth

Cobiosa’s Ethomega is an exotic and

was originally developed to address skin dryness

an estimated R4.5 billion.

exclusive oil mix. It combines the soothing,

and ensure its sustained hydration. Test results show

calming and antioxidant properties of

PatcH2O is also ideal for scalp care applications, to

Chia seed oil with the powerful nourishing

hydrate, soothe and calm a dry and uncomfortable

properties of Sacha Inchi oil.

scalp. In a double-blind randomised 21-day study,

Ethomega improved hair breakage resistance up to 27.5 percent

dehydration in the scalp and hair. The technology

It is also characterised by high

PatcH2O was tested on a group 65 women of varying

concentrations of Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFAs), a -linolenic acid (Ω 3), linoleic

ethnicities to evaluate its hydra-protect effect on the scalp and hair. Results showed 77 percent of the

acid (Ω 6) and oleic acid (Ω 9). High doses

group experienced a reduction in scalp itchiness

of Tocopherols (delta and specially gamma,

after the trial period, while 69 percent felt their scalp

not found in other botanical oils) are also

was more relaxed after just three days of application.

present in the oil mix. Ethomega can be

A significant improvement in the shine, strength and

used to reduce split hairs and hair breakage,

vitality of the hair was also noted, with 80 percent

‘It is common knowledge that breakage and

restore the scalp and hair barrier, increase

of the group stating their hair looked shinier and 71

general brittleness are major problems of

brightness, improve scalp comfort and

percent stating their hair felt stronger and more vibrant.

Ethnic hair,’ explains Robyn Brown, managing

restore moisture. The oil also prevents sun

Actively making a change Supplier of Actives and Technical Services to the Cosmetic Industry Our Services include: Supplier for:

• Stability Testing • Formulation • Quality assurance • Dossier presentation for most markets in the world • Full cosmetic regulatory services

CONTACT Robyn Brown Tel +27 (0)11 425 2206 | Fax +27 (0)86 520 4585 | Cell +27 (0)814476236 / +27 (0)815456857 info@botanichem.co.za | www.botanichem.co.za Botanichem 1/4.indd 1

32

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

2018/07/26 15:57

ETHNIC CARE Figure 1: Hair breakage resistance percentage change

Figure 2: Shine percentage change

damage and protects hair colour. During

These include:

stimulate new hair growth. It can also

testing, Ethomega improved hair breakage

• proteins from native marine

be used in products that strengthen hair

resistance up to 27.5 percent and improved

collagen for the hair’s external

and increase the diameter of thin hairs;

hair shine by up to 95 percent (see figures 1 and 2).

Pump up the volume To care for thin, devitalised and weak

protection • amino acids from hydrolysed marine

conditioners and hair products that

follicles in the scalp

increase volume. Botanichem is the sole

• polysaccharides and moisturising factors extracted from honey to improve

Complex, a blend of marine and

hydroretention and hydrocaptation

It effectively repairs and strengthens the hair structure, supplying hair with

dry, scaly or weak hair; protective hair

elastin to improve the vitality of hair

hair, Cobiosa has developed Hairdensyl botanical multifunctional extracts.

shampoos and lotions for devitalised,

capacity • marine glycogen, which assists with new hair growth.

several vital substances needed to

Hairdensyl Complex is ideal for use in

increase volume.

treatments to help to reduce hair loss and

distributor of products from Cobiosa and BASF Care Creations, in South Africa. •

BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Cobiosa – www.cobiosa.com

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

33

ETHNIC CARE

Skin care’s glow ingredient is also great for hair OH

O HO

With a proven reputation as an effective exfoliant and skin moisturiser, glycolic acid is also ideal for hair care products.

Its hair care benefits have been proven through a series of tests and experiments on African, Asian and Latino hair.

glycolic acid

G

lycolic acid is a popular active in anti-

positive effect on skin, hair care products formulated

ageing formulations and has strong

with glycolic acid will not only benefit the hair, but

consumer recognition. While the positive

also moisturise the scalp and reduce flaking, resulting

effects of glycolic acid in skin care

in an overall healthy look and feel.

products are well documented, similar research did not exist for hair care products.

DuPont, the manufacturer of Glypure, a popular

enhanced softness, protection and conditioning

this ingredient could play in hair care products. The

are key attributes for hair care products. Based on

first study was conducted on healthy and bleached

these parameters, five classes of experiments were

to investigate the effects of glycolic acid on

acid in hair care applications.

Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) was

and chemically damaged hair samples

conducted on African, Asian and Latino hair by DuPont’s researchers. The other experiment – a tensile

Based on the results, it is clear glycolic acid serves several functions in hair care products. It is capable of penetrating the hair shaft, improving softness and enabling hair to better withstand heat.

by a third party testing lab contracted by DuPont.

Healthy and chemically damaged (bleached or relaxed) hair samples were used for all the experiments. For the DSC test, the hair samples were treated with one of the main ingredients

in a conditioning formulation helps

found in a hair conditioning treatment based on

make hair less prone to breakage

DuPont Glypure.

manageability.

Because glycolic acid has such a

The iconic Marula tree is indigenous to South Africa with a long history of traditional uses.

Marula oil is extracted from the kernels inside the fruit and offers exceptional anti-inflammatory benefits along with excellent moisture retention properties. This makes it ideal for use as a treatment oil in facial serums, a makeup primer, or as a multipurpose emollient for both skin & hair care formulations.

Marula oil is also very stable due to its high proportions of oleic acid (70-78%), as well as linoleic acid (4-7%).

Botanica’s has ECOCERT organically certified and conventional grades of Marula oil available. We offer small minimum order quantities, attractive pricing and high quality products which is issued which a full GC analysis per batch.

INCI Name: Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil To find out more about our range of oils and certified plant extracts please contact us:

E:info@botanica.africa

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

strength test – was conducted on all three hair types

The data also shows glycolic acid

and improves its lubricity, improving

34

conducted to evaluate the performance of glycolic

African, Asian and Latino hair. Both healthy were used.

|

Consumer research shows that manageability,

cosmetic-grade glycolic acid, investigated the role

Caucasian hair. DuPont then expanded the study

T:071 925 5870

Evaluations in focus

|

W:www.botanica.africa

The ingredients in this complex formulation were tested separately to determine which, if any, would cause an increase in denaturation temperature,

ETHNIC CARE resulting in a positive effect on hair. In the tensile

a statistically significant increase in the

strength experiment, researchers compared the

denaturation temperature of keratin when

effects of each of the main ingredients found in

hair is treated with DuPont Glypure.

a hair conditioning treatment based on DuPont

Glycolic acid provides hair with superior lubricity

Glypure on healthy and chemically damaged (bleached or relaxed) African, Asian and Latino hair samples.

Positive findings High pressure DSC was used to study the denaturation of keratin in hair. The test method is based on that referenced in Characterising Keratins Using High-Pressure Differential

Results from the tensile strength tests, using

Scanning Calorimetry (HPDSC) by Wortmann

a five percent DuPont Glypure solution,

and Deutz. A total of 12 hair tresses per hair

showed a statistically significant decrease

type were used – six healthy and six bleached

in hair’s elastic modulus or stiffness. This

samples. Each was treated for five minutes.

softening effect is consistent with the effect

For the African hair samples, there was an

hair. Glycolic acid also provides hair with superior lubricity, which results in less friction and tangling, making hair more manageable, easier to style, less prone to breakage and protected from damage during heat styling.

DuPont Glypure is available in South Africa from Protea Chemicals. •

DuPont – www.dupont.com Protea Chemicals – www. proteachemicals.co.za

of moisture on hair.

increase of six degrees Celsius in denaturation temperature for the healthy sample and a nine

Good for all hair types

degrees Celsius increase for the bleached

Test data clearly shows African, Asian and

sample treated with DuPont Glypure. Both the

Latino hair can benefit from the multiple,

healthy and bleached African hair samples

positive effects DuPont Glypure delivers in

treated with the other four ingredients showed

hair care products.

an increase in denaturation temperature.

However, the greatest increase was shown with DuPont Glypure. These findings reveal

These benefits include enhancing softness, improving manageability, preventing breakage and protecting

Protea Chemicals have a new range of naturally derived ingredients that are extensively used in ethnic care pharmaceutical and cosmetic products for the whole family.

Back- integrated to the wool industry, Lanolines Stella offers a wide range of high purity Lanolin products and derivatives specifically designed for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries (skin care, personal care, baby care, body care, anti-ageing & anti wrinkles lotions, skin disorder solutions and for the most demanding end users.

Protea is the official distributor in SA for LANOLINES STELLA. Oils and fats are among the most important cosmetic ingredients and are frequently used for a variety of external applications.

They can be used directly as skin and hair care products but also as the basic ingredients for the manufacture of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. A wider range of Henry Lamotte Plant oils and butters are now stocked in SA. Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Almond, Aloe Vera, Argan, Black Cumin Seed, Evening Primrose, Grape Seed, Castor, Coconut and Soybean oils are just some of the more popular selections in formulating ethnic care products.

Leanne Rossouw: Industry Sector Manager Mobile: + 27 (0)76 683 5615 Tel: +27 11 821 3310 Email: Leanne.Rossouw@proteachemicals.co.za General Enquiries: info@proteachemicals.co.za

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

35

ETHNIC CARE

Acquisition drives innovation across the value chain

In July, Sensient Technologies announced the acquisition of Vancouver-based Mazza Innovation, a global leader in botanical extraction technology.

T

he addition of Mazza Innovation

for our R&D efforts,’ says Mike Geraghty,

technology would address the growing

is a major step in the evolution

president of Sensient Colors. ‘Many

demand for clean and pure ingredients.

of Sensient Technologies’ ‘seed

of the botanical colour sources used

to shelf’ strategy to innovate

today require chemical solvents or high

cosmetics industry where the “naturality”

temperatures to be effective.

of an ingredient is evaluated by its

across the value chain for natural and organic ingredients. Mazza’s patented

This patented extraction technology

‘This is a major opportunity for the

origin, traceability, sustainability, global

solvent-free clean extraction technology

represents a major step change. It is

beneficiaries as well as manufacturing

expands current extraction capabilities to

cleaner, more efficient and delivers on the

process. We can truly make a difference in

deliver pure and clean cosmetics, colour,

need for natural colours for cosmetics,

the market offering powerful actives and

functional nutraceutical, skin care and

functional extracts, skin care ingredients

colorants from natural sources using the

flavour ingredients. The acquisition will

and clean label flavour extracts.’

most earth-friendly extraction process,’

leverage Sensient’s robust agronomy and

adds Gaelle Frere, global general manager

sustainable sourcing programmes for

Ahead of industry demand

plant materials as well as the company’s

Originally developed by Dr Giuseppe

strong extract refinement and application

(Joe) Mazza, a long-time researcher

expertise. ‘I am excited about the

of Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada,

immediate and longer term possibilities

Mazza recognised the unique extraction

36

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

of Sensient Cosmetic Technologies. •

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com

ETHNIC CARE

Your solution to healthy hair days

I

n the same way a breakfast smoothie

and a mask treatment containing 10

promoted at 100 percent as a booster for

gives the body a boost of essential

percent Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk were

consumers to mix with their existing beauty

nutrients, a natural hair smoothie will

observed. Both studies revealed that

products for skin and hair. •

moisturise and repair the hair and

systems containing Coconut-Avocado

scalp. Vantage Specialty Chemicals’

Hair Milk helped to improve the

Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk

appearance of the damaged

is a stable, water-thin, oil in water emulsion designed specifically for use in hair care. Utilising high quality oils with known benefits for hair, this ‘smoothie’ is made up of Lipovol C-76

DID YOU KNOW?

hair. Both systems also increased moisturisation,

Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk easily penetrates and nourishes hair. With nearly half of its fatty acid profile made up of Lauric Acid, coconut oil has a natural affinity for hair, while the fatty acid and vitamin rich avocado oil imparts a luxurious and creamy feel.

(coconut oil), Lipovol A (avocado oil) and Distinctive Coconut Water. The result is an

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za

improved the feel of the hair and noticeably reduced frizz.

Skin and hair beauty booster

Stable, versatile and easy to use, Coconut-Avocado Hair

easy to use ingredient that provides an

Milk is even suitable for sprayable

improvement in shine and the overall

and cold process formulations. The

appearance of hair while reducing frizz.

recommended use level is up to 20 percent in a variety of hair care

Restore lipid moisture balance

applications, including shampoos,

In two separate studies on damaged

conditioners, masks,

hair, the effects of a shampoo containing

treatments and styling

one percent Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk

products. It can also be

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

37

PHARMA FOCUS// SUPPLY CHAIN & DISTRIBUTION

Overcome supply chain challenges

to win the war on Aids

The 22nd International AIDS Conference took place in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, from 23 to 27 July. Imperial Logistics showcased the critical role logistics and supply chain management play in winning the war on Aids.

I

mperial Logistics’ healthcare strategy executive, Dr Iain Barton comments: ‘As Africa’s leading healthcare supply chain partner, we are proud to be involved

in this important event.’ The International Aids Conference is the largest in the world that focuses on a global health issue. It was first convened during the peak of the Aids epidemic in 1985 and provides a vital platform for role players to come together and strengthen policies and programmes that ensure an evidence-based response to the pandemic.

Up to 60 percent of medicines in Africa could be counterfeit

In remote areas in Africa, medicines are delivered by boat

ensuring last mile access to medicines and healthcare services for patients who do not have the means to travel for these services,’ Dr Barton explains. The Unjani Clinic concept was the brainchild of Imperial Logistics and

‘UNAIDS, the Joint United Nations Programme

is poised to play an impactful role in fighting

on HIV/Aids, stated it will be impossible to

HIV/Aids in South Africa. Just over five years

close the book on Aids without bringing HIV

since the launch of the project, this ground-

treatment to all who need it. Achieving this

breaking network of nurse-owned and

goal hinges on efficient healthcare supply

operated community clinics has achieved the

chains and logistics partners that can

milestone of treating 500 000 patients.

ensure product security as well as quality

SA’S HIV/AIDS STATISTICS • South Africa has a population of 56 million • 46 million people (82 percent) are dependent on public healthcare • 7.1 million patients are HIV positive • 4.2 million patients are receiving treatment for HIV

‘Up to now, the main contribution of Unjani

assured processes and controls and, thereby,

Clinics in the fight against HIV/Aids has

as well as pharma wholesale and

uncompromised treatments and tests,’

been providing screening and education.

distribution. Imperial Logistics is committed

Dr Barton says.

Yet the organisation hopes to extend this

to combating the public health threats

to the provision of free ARV treatment to

that stem from fake and substandard

Last mile access

state patients,’ he revealed. ‘There are now

medicines. It is estimated up to

Imperial Logistics’ commitment to supplying

50 Unjani Clinics located in five of the nine

60 percent of medicines in Africa could

sustainable, affordable and quality medicines

provinces. They have the potential to make a

be counterfeit.

to the people of Africa is reflected in the 43

powerful impact on the HIV/Aids crisis. To this

million patient packs delivered monthly by

end, the Unjani Clinics non-profit company

technology and serialisation to ensure

the supply chain and logistics leader. This

is lobbying with government to be able to

what we deliver is authentic medicine,’

includes more than six million ARVs.

distribute ARVs through the clinics to patients

states Dr Barton.

The organisation’s healthcare supply chain solutions and innovations include ‘Clinic in a

in underserved communities.’

‘Imperial Logistics uses authentication

Imperial Logistics has built the world’s only blockchain-enabled pharma

Box’ and the Unjani Clinics initiative. ‘Our pre-

End to end visibility

fabricated Clinic in a Box systems are a critical

The company is a leading force in African

visibility across pharma supply chains

part of the healthcare supply chain in Africa,

healthcare supply chain management,

and to fight the life-threatening issue of

38

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

‘control tower’, to offer unmatched

PHARMA FOCUS// SUPPLY CHAIN & DISTRIBUTION An Unjani Clinic, which provides primary healthcare services at an affordable price to underserved communities in South Africa

counterfeit medicines. These and other

bring patient-level transparency

stakeholders at the International AIDS

Imperial Logistics contributions to the

to ARV deliveries in sub-Saharan

Conference a powerful view of how

fight against HIV/Aids were highlighted

Africa. Imperial Logistics also hosted

we have responded to the challenge

at the International AIDS Conference.

a photographic exhibition at the

of delivering first world solutions

This year, the company’s involvement

renowned Amsterdam gallery, De Balie.

in developing nations,’ Dr Barton

included a panel discussion chaired

‘The exhibition captured the unique

by Dr Barton.

supply chain challenges on the

The panel discussion saw global

African continent. We were proud to

thought leaders examining how to

share this visual journey. It gave key

FINAL PRINT design.indd 1

concludes. •

Imperial Logistics – www.imperiallogistics.com

28/08/2018 14:59

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

39

HOME CARE

Cleaning gets creative

Household cleaning products with a strong brand heritage are trusted by consumers in terms of efficiency. Supported by their innovative suppliers, these products are enjoying success in the market.

A

ccording to Euromonitor

continue among branded and non-

African consumers and developing

International, though

branded players as both aim to capture

products that cater for specific items,

consumers face continued

a greater share of constrained consumer

be it black or white clothing, is natural

financial constraints, their

spending by offering more value-orientated

progression for Skip as it continues

aspirational tendencies are evident in

goods. However, as brand loyalty is not

to deliver on its ‘care promise’ in

the home care category. The industry is

easily won, consumers will continue to

the market.

seeing major expansion in private label

support branded products with proven

home care products with retailers taking

efficacy and convenience.

on a brand-orientated approach to their

Acdoco SA, Africa’s first shoppercentric brand-custodian distributor, has just launched the first carpet stain

private label offerings. They are creating

Recent innovations

remover with a brush applicator.

laundry detergents and cleaning products

In May, Skip pioneered a major advance in

Dr. Beckmann Carpet Stain Remover,

of similar or even arguably superior quality

laundry detergents with the launch of three

imported from the UK, is packaged in a

to their branded equivalents.

specialised products for three different

bottle with a brush attachment offering

types of clothing, including white, dark

a quick and effective solution to tackle

private label brand was discontinued.

and delicate garments. The formulations

stains with ease and convenience. Its

The decline in performance of Bingo

in the Skip Perfect Care range are crafted

oxi powered formulation and the unique

products was subsequent to the improved

to keep clothes looking newer for longer.

brush attachment penetrate carpet

performance of other private label products.

According to the Skip brand manager,

fibres, enabling the user to remove

It is expected aggressive competition will

fabric care is a key unmet need of South

tough stains quickly. •

Sadly, in 2017, Shoprite Checkers’ Bingo

40

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN

September 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 9

www.pharmacos.co.za

Flawless filling solutions for vials and stick packs

Why recyclable packaging is good for your brand and business

Highlights from Omronâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s innovation conference

NEWS

Maximum care and precision DEVELOPMENTS IN PHARMA dosage formats from traditional tablets, capsules, powders and liquids to newer methods of intravenous and transdermal ingestion continue to drive equipment innovations in the packaging industry. Packaging is afterall an emerging science, engineering discipline and a successful contributor to almost all industries.

Quality control extends beyond the ingredients and raw materials to packaging components and equipment to achieve a sterile, quality product in its final form. Advances in drugis one of the many reasons for the increased attention on filling technology over traditional aseptic methods. On page 44, we’ve featured a series of machines specifically designed to guarantee the highest levels of quality and filling precision and efficiency. Highlights from Omron's Innovation Conference are featured in this edition. Turn to page 43 now for more info on the company's take on i-Automation.

ARE SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS WORTH THE COST?

You can also catch up on recycling stats and developments in our sustainable packaging and practices feature on page 43.

GLOBAL COMPANIES ARE scrambling to Until next month!

develop sustainable packaging materials to reduce environmental impact. Yet it’s a

Assistant Editor

time-consuming and expensive process.

Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za

Companies need to build flexibility into their supply chains and regularly update

NOVUS HOLDINGS APPOINTS NEW CEO

consumers on their progress to remain in

THE SOUTH AFRICAN printing production and manufacturing

Packaging Materials’ reveals two-thirds

operator recently appointed Neil Birch as group CEO. Birch

of consumers worldwide think living an

was previously an independent non-executive director at the

ethical or sustainable lifestyle is important

group and chairman from April 2017 before being appointed

to creating a feeling of wellbeing. This

executive chairman from October 2017 to July 2018.

increased focus on environmental impact is

Birch holds a BSc (Hons) degree in mechanical/industrial engineering from the University of Witwatersrand. He first

the competition, says GlobalData.

The data and analytics company’s report, ‘Innovation Scenarios in Sustainable

creating new opportunities for sustainable Neil Birch

packaging material producers. ‘Pressure

started working in the printing and packaging industry in

from governments and consumers is forcing

1986 and went on to become appointed group MD at Lithotech in 1989.

companies to better track the environmental

From 2006 to 2016, Birch assumed the role of CEO at Bidvest Paperplus.

impact of their packaging. However, concerns remain over cost, barrier properties

NEW POSITIONS CREATED AT RPC ASTRAPAK LAST MONTH, WHEN South Africa

appointment of two account executives

celebrated Women’s Month, RPC

who recently started at the company,’

Astrapak introduced two female

says Greg Till, sales and marketing

account executives to its team,

executive at RPC Astrapak.

Hlengiwe Thusini and Buhle Mbatha.

The duo is committed to

Thusini and Mbatha will assist Till in strengthening the company’s position

understanding customers’ needs.

with key customers. Thusini is a familiar

They will focus on enhancing the

face at RPC Astrapak as she has been

client service experience. ‘In line

part of the team since 2013, while

with our strategy to optimise the

Mbatha is new to the company.

current sales structure and re-define

‘We have to know our customers

roles and responsibilities, it gives

intimately to build and forge solid

me great pleasure to announce the

relationships. Understanding our company’s core values of integrity and honesty come into play when dealing with both old and new clients. There is a need to ensure the best quality product is continuously provided in order to effectively grow in the market,’ Thusini concludes.

Hlengiwe Thusini and Buhle Mbatha

42

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review

and product safety, product functionality and scalability. These must be addressed for sustainable materials to increase their market share,’ says Mayu Teeven, associate analyst of FMCG at GlobalData.

The report states glass packaging is seen as environmentally friendly, yet it’s under threat in a world where convenience is crucial. On the other hand, even though the growth of flexible packaging across many categories is driven by cost and convenience, it will come under threat due to the low sustainability credentials of many plastics. GlobalData has identified Micro Fibrillated Cellulose (MFC), Polyvinyl Alcohol, Ethylene Vinyl Alcohol and Polyethylene Furanoate as the materials impacting innovation in sustainable packaging markets. MFC is a 100 percent renewable material based on cellulose fibers extracted from wood. It is also niche and severely limited by production capabilities.

‘The biggest challenge for producers is to convince consumers these sustainable packaging materials are worth the cost.

EVENTS

Generation automation

Omron hosted its Innovation Conference on 24 August at the CSIR International Convention Centre in Tshwane, Gauteng. This was to introduce a newly developed platform which alleviates manufacturers’ pressures by focussing on three principles.

I

ntegrated, intelligent, interactive and smart were the buzzwords at this year’s event. All are of equal importance in the development of Industry 4.0 initiatives. But what exactly does this mean for manufacturers and their customers? ‘While

Industry 4.0 might be a hot topic, what a lot of companies are saying is just hot air,’ says Lucian Dold, GM of product and channel marketing for the EMEA region at Omron Industrial Automation Europe. Although companies are interested in the adoption of automated technologies, it is not a new concept.

‘Omron has been working on manufacturing automation and data exchange for many years, both on its own and as part of working groups in Germany,’ he adds.

Omron’s Brynmor Majiedt, key account manager of panel builders and consulting engineer s; Quintin Nel, field sales engineer and Harold Kotzé, projects manager at the Inno vation Conference 2018

But could the concept be too broad and does it mean the same thing to everyone? While sensor networks, big data and artificial intelligence technologies are part of the Industry 4.0 concept, the results produced are what’s important.

Simplified approaches Networked, effective, agile and responsible or NEAR factory and i-Automation! are Omron’s advanced concepts. Having a NEAR factory means improved productivity in response to ever changing market demands. Within a networked factory there is a better connection between machines in a manufacturing

Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions

line. This provides improved control and efficiency. Data and control of the line can also be managed remotely. These concepts are able to draw on additional data, such as market forecasts, to efficiently manage production schedules. An effective factory is one with a high overall equipment efficiency (OEE). Raising OEE by one percent can deliver large gains.

Smart, interconnected systems are able to detect and monitor potential issues to keep production lines running longer and allow maintenance to be scheduled at an appropriate time.

This will help increase efficiency.

Omron’s i-Automation! concept enables the NEAR factory concept to be implemented. It transforms the elements of Industry 4.0 into tangible benefits for machine makers. In a way, it sums up the value provided by Omron’s solutions for improving manufacturing sites by focusing on the principles of integration, intelligence and interactivity. Smarter machines help operators work effectively by monitoring processes and flagging any potential problems. This allows for processes to be adjusted, maintenance to be scheduled or for repairs to be made before

Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet

Articulated robot Viper

SCARA robot eCobra

Mobile robot LD Series

The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency.

Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge!

the event of complete machine failure. It also helps keep manufacturing lines running longer, with less downtime and increased productivity. •

Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za

Omron – www.industrial.omron.co.za

robot_88,5x130_p&c_review_ad_enza_01.indd 1 Packaging Review |

| 43 12:52 SEPTEMBER 2018 20-07-17

FILLING & SEALING EQUIPMENT

Safeguard your profits with filling accuracy Considering the nature of medicinal products, it is important to ensure packaging methods are faultless. Marchesini has upgraded a few of its filling machines for improved, accurately filled pharmaceuticals and diverse product handling. By Aarifah Nosarka

T

he MSP 560 from the Italian

additional improvements, which were

an electronically controlled filling system,

equipment manufacturer is a

made to the machine’s paper centring, reel

positive displacement pumps made of

vertical intermittent motion stick

unwinding and feeding control software

stainless steel, mechanical ceramic valves

packaging machine for nutraceutical

logic. The machine has been set up

and a rotary piston that incorporates valve

and pharmacological products. The

with a paper feeding path prearranged

functionality. The system’s capping turrets

company showcased a version of this

to accommodate various printers. This

have six or eight heads. The ML 661 can

technology last year at Interpack. This

includes an optional laser numbering

be used for all types of press-on caps,

year’s upgraded version was on show

device for printing variable data. It can be

aluminium seals, pilfer proof closures,

at Achema in June. The machine was

installed on an independent trolley with

screw caps or spray pumps. •

equipped with a volumetric batching unit

the possibility to simultaneously perform

for granular products. Myles Davis, director

the ‘easy open’ pre-cut on the reel. There

at MGSA Projects, the South African

is also an optional position for OCR+OCV

agent for Marchesini, says the machine

print control. These optional functions result

was redesigned for easy release from the

in a more efficient, easy to clean solution

working position.

that meets GMP requirements. The MSP

‘This is to simplify batch size changes

560 is versatile owing to the possibility to

and easily disassemble parts to clean and

interchange powder batching units with

sanitise them, especially those in direct

liquid batching ones.

contact with products.’

MGSA Projects – www.mgsaprojects.co.za

A CHANGE IN PERSPECTIVE

‘The machine is unique because it can

Its manoeuvring devices

be connected to a motion pick and place

MYLES DAVIS, FORMER director of MGSA

allow the operator to

system. This places products directly into

Consulting has opened a new company by the

the buckets of a conveyor belt or synchro-

name, MGSA Projects. This is the result of Davis’

dynamic transfer unit. All these features

former partners emigrating.

volumetric batching

make the MSP 560 an ideal solution for

‘After much discussion, it was agreed that

unit is connected to

packaging granular products into stick

registering a new company would be simpler,’

the base machine

packs,’ Davis explains.

Davis explains. He is the only shareholder at the

move batches to a suitable position. The

by quick-release

newly registered company.

FILL BOTTLES WITH EASE

‘I am excited about this development as there will

The ML 661 is a linear monobloc

be a more efficient, streamlined and personal

machine for filling and capping vials.

service will be provided.’

Its cantilevered, balcony type layout

MGSA Projects will continue to represent

assists with improved compliance with

Marchesini (Dumek, Vibrotec, Schmucker, Creinox

cGMP requirements, especially where

and Seavision), Brivetti, Abzil Telstar, Easysnap,

facilitate functional requirements during

laminar flow is a requirement. The

Adamus and MGQ. While the company is known in

production. Davis says the system is built

machine has robotised movements,

the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries, it will

into a structure that supports the star valve

which are achieved through brushless

also serve other segments.

and relevant loading hopper to facilitate

motors and controlled by a PC. There is

couplings. This enables quick disconnection of the mechanical, electrical and pneumatic systems for cleaning and to

extraordinary maintenance, if necessary.

Its production speed depends on the number of lanes and types of products to be batched.

REFINED HARDWARE The upgraded MSP 560 comprises an improved dust removal system and a new horizontal straight cutting unit. There are

44

A close up of the MSP 560 stick packaging machine

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review

TO BE CONSTANTLY AT THE FOREFRONT OF TECHNOLOGY EFFICIENCY MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

• CONTINUOUS INVESTMENT IN R&D • 500 PATENTS GRANTED • FAST FORMAT PRODUCTION COMPLEX MARCHESINI GROUP. WE MAKE THE DIFFERENCE.

Myles Davis Myles Davis Mobile: +27 +27 (0) Mobile (0)82 82460 4602766 2766

Projects Pty Ltd

Email: myles@mgsaprojects.co.za

MARCHESINI.COM

SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES

Waste reduction is possible South Africa continues to make a success out of recycling.

Aarifah Nosarka brings you the latest statistics from Plastics|SA and reports on one company’s achievements in creating luxury packaging by re-using materials.

T

he most popular cosmetics and

64 percent of households. More than

Hanekom highlights. ‘Landfill material is

pharma packaging recycled in

12 percent of metropolitan households

often poor quality, contaminated and

South Africa is shampoo bottles,

do not even have regular refuse removal,

expensive to recycle.’

closures and outer packaging such

much less a two bin waste collection

as shrink sleeves. This is according

system where recyclables are collected

to Annabe Pretorius, GM of the

separately on a weekly basis,’

JOB CREATION AND THE ECONOMY

South African Plastics Recycling

Hanekom explains.

In 2017, plastics recycling provided an

Organisation (SAPRO).

income to more than 58 100 workers.

However, the combination of the

MORE TO BE DONE

This figure includes self employed

materials used in the different packaging

Over the years, access to good quality,

waste pickers, employees of smaller

components can present challenges.

relatively clean materials before they

entrepreneurial collectors and formal

These statements come in the wake

reach landfills has been one of the

jobs in designated factories.

of Plastics|SA’s recent announcement

biggest challenges to building the

There were increased tonnages per

regarding plastics recycling figures for

employee, which reached 53.8t –

the year ending 2017. The country’s input

seven percent more than 2016.

rate is at 43.7 percent. This is well above

Through the procurement of recyclables,

Europe’s rate of 31.1 percent. These results

an estimated R448 million was injected

indicate ongoing growth, which has been

into the economy at the primary

the case over the past seven years.

sourcing level. Although the rates tell an impressive story, local

PERFORMANCE DESPITE CHALLENGES

recyclers faced an uphill battle

Plastics|SA’s executive director,

selling their materials.

Anton Hanekom, comments: ‘South

‘For the second year in a row,

Africa is doing well with recycling.

these businesses had more

The latest results show we are slowly

recyclate than is required by

but steadily beating the odds.’

immediate and existing customers.

The South African recycling

This posed operational challenges,

industry is based on economic

as they were unable to sell their

principles whilst the practise is an

stock. Developing suitable end markets

environmental principle subscribed to

is critical for the sustainability of the

by most citizens and local councils in

industry,’ Hanekom highlights.

Europe. Recycling needs to

CREATE A DIFFERENCE

be financially viable in order to succeed in

industry. Despite the call for separation

Envirocore is passionate about

South Africa.

at source, where reprocessable materials

sustainability, particularly when it comes

are separated from non-recyclables,

to packaging. The company offers a

manual labour to sort

74 percent of the plastics recycled during

variety of composites suitable for the

the waste and recycle

2017 were obtained from landfill and

pharma and cosmetics industries. Its

compared to overseas

other post-consumer sources.

tissue composite is perfect for consumers

‘Regionally we rely on

In the European community,

[Europe] where the entire

owing to its recyclability and shelf-appeal.

process has become

government and the plastics industry

It is also ideal as an advertising medium

mechanised. There

are all involved in acquiring re-usable

for pharma companies.

are landfill restrictions

materials from waste streams as early

in place for recyclable

as possible. ‘It is a sad reality in South

more significant over the years and we

and recoverable waste in some of the

Africa that these materials are still

have always maintained the importance

European countries. In South Africa, there

being sourced from landfill at high costs

of producing packs that assist in sparing

is formal waste management for only

and posing dangers to waste pickers,’

waste sent to landfill,’ says Caron Green,

Anton Ha neko m, executive direc tor of Pla stics|SA

46

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review

‘Sustainable packaging has become

SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES

composite cans, which serves the purpose of housing a product and can be used as a toy to stimulate children's minds. The popularity of composites has grown over the years owing to their on shelf appeal and reusable properties. ‘Recycling is a priority for us,’ Green explains, ‘as is corporate social responsibility and contributing to achieving a circular economy.’ •

Envirocore – www.envirocore.co.za Plastics|SA – www.plasticsinfo.co.za Caron Green and y Margaret Krishna sam

co-owner of Envirocore. Previously

complete and a few new machines

a small business, it outgrew its

were installed. ‘We now have

former premises, relocated to a larger property and tripled its production capacity. The company had a unit specifically built for the collection and recycling of composite cores and paperboard. Green and Margaret

DID YOU KNOW?

the speed and flexibility needed to process orders quickly and efficiently,’

In South Africa, more than 334 727t of plastics were recycled back into raw materials last year.

Krishnasamy, who is also a co-owner of Envirocore, are a

says Krishnasamy.

Green is thrilled with the custom designed

AS THE POPULATION increases, plastic raw

facility. ‘We have the capacity to offer existing and

potential clients a unique South

mother and daughter team. Together they

African experience in finding the

commenced with the purpose of recycling,

perfect locally produced, well priced

refurbishing and supplying postal tubes and

composite pack.’

and dealt with responsibly.

Recycling is an essential activity. Relevance is becoming more prominent as the drive to create a long term, circular economy requires end of life general. The momentum lies with four stakeholders:

WHAT’S IN IT FOR YOU?

South African packaging market for reusable

A powder composite fitted with a

upmarket composite packs. This led to the

powder dispenser and beautiful

establishment of the company’s composite

perfume composites designed as

division. The move to new premises in

one or two piece packs are just some

Boksburg East took place earlier this year.

of the unique offerings from Evirocore.

Envirocore purchased a larger property

materials become scarcer. Resources must be used

solutions for plastics packaging and plastics in

cores to brand owners and manufacturers.

They soon realised there was a gap in the

ANTON HANEKOM’S TIPS FOR GROWTH

Packs for hair extensions and

adjacent to its former premises for the

protein shakes and the diffuser and

construction of offices, a staff kitchen and

gift packs are fully recyclable.

canteen, ablution facilities and two factories.

A newer addition to the Evirocore

The one factory is focused on composite

stable is a stimulating puzzle on

1. consumers 2. brand owners 3. retailers 4. plastics industry.

Together with the three levels of government, new end markets must be developed. Technology must also be sourced to make recycling energy efficient and consistent, ultimately ensuring reliable levels of quality.

manufacturing, while the other is completely dedicated to gathering composite boards and converting them into re-usable materials. The construction took a year to

Packaging Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

47

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

AMA broadens its horizons

On 16 August, the AMA hosted its annual Gauteng breakfast at the Protea Hotel OR Tambo. Highlights included alternative energy solutions, an update on Industry Waste Management Plans and a sneak peek at the association’s new website.

U

nreliable electricity

IDEAS FOR INNOVATION

supply continues to have

To end the breakfast on a

a negative effect on

high note, the British Aerosol

businesses while rising utility

Manufacturers Association

costs can make a major dent in

(BAMA) shared a series of

manufacturers’ cash flow. There is

interesting presentations from

an urgent need for manufacturers

the BAMA Innovation Day, via

to take advantage of the tax

videoconference.

The Retail Institute, part

incentives of solar power, to

of Leeds Beckett University

sustainably control the energy Dr John Greathead, AMA’s technical advisor; Maurits Perold, Turnkey Solar Solutions’ CEO and Nick Tselentis, executive director of the AMA

costs of their enterprises.

Turnkey Solar Solutions has manufacturers get off the grid.

To date, only 300 producers have

Company CEO, Maurits Perold

registered and none of them have

was at the South African Aerosol

received registration numbers

Manufacturers’ Association (AMA)

from government.

breakfast to discuss how solar has

Because metals have a high

evolved from a public relations business decision. With solar technology, a saving of close on R3 million can

recycling rate, Dr Greathead said

DID YOU KNOW?

this waste stream does not need an Industry Waste Management Plan. As

a result, the AMA will The industry and members will enjoy a more modern AMA in the coming draft a letter to the first year, while the full months. The association is launching minister requesting the a new user-friendly website and a return on the investment exemption or exclusion fresh corporate identity. It will also can be realised in of aerosol cans. It’s no introduce webinars for training under five years. More doubt challenges lie and events, for members in importantly, manufacturers other regions. ahead with the IWMPs. The be achieved in the

can become cash flow

positive from month one because solar power has the ability to unlock additional cash flow for their facilities.

THE WAR ON WASTE Dr John Greathead gave an overview of the current position on the contentious subject of Industry Waste Management Plans (IWMP). Producers – that is anyone selling a packaged product or who produces packaging – were required to register their Section 28 Producer Responsible plans by 6 February.

48

focus group research on the sensory evaluation of

a variety of options to help

exercise to a straightforward

in the UK, has carried out

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

aerosol products so that touch, smell and sound all combine to give consumers the best product experience. Coster, a multinational provider of spray packaging solutions and filling equipment, presented its platform actuator system, which is currently in development.

Certain parameters of the design will be fixed, such as the actuator base and the position of the insert.

The customisation offering of the top of the actuator is what makes it unique as it offers brand synergy while keeping down the cost for mould tools and assembly machines. •

Department of Environmental Affairs has a strong view all waste streams and plans will be managed by the Waste Bureau with levies introduced

Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association – www.aerosol.co.za British Aerosol Manufacturers Association – www.bama.co.uk

by Treasury. In order to a avoid a repeat of the Redisa saga, transparency and ethical governance will be key within the Waste Bureau.

The new AMA characters, which will feature on the new website

ASSOCIATION NEWS// COSCHEM

Strong bonds and inspiring stories Books clubs have become an obsession all over the world. It’s possibly because more than their common love for reading, the bonds between women in book clubs go far deeper than their book shelves.

MEN'S DAY HIGHLIGHTS

B

ased on the strong bonds that exist among the women in the cosmetics and personal care industry, Coschem chose the book club theme for 2018 Ladies Day. The event took place at Avianto in

Muldersdrift, Gauteng with about 180 women attending.

There was also a charitable element to the day with the ladies donating old denims and other items to the Special Wings Foundation to make pencil cases. Old and new books were also donated to the Pavement Book Worm.

A DAY OF GREAT STORIES Conny Oberrauter, The Cosmetics Chef, shared insight into how to be the author of your own life. Crista du Plessis of Krav Maga spoke about self-defence techniques and staying safe in public environments. Nazli Jugbaran and Vuyo Mellet chatted about divine intervention. Brigette Assad of Lancôme shared an amazing story of fragrance through the ages and the luxury brand’s Write Her Future campaign, which seeks combat illiteracy among women all over the world.

By far one of the most enlightening presenters was Dr Mpumi Simelane, ‘your gynaecologist on the couch’, who demystified issues surrounding menstruation and other common conditions affecting women.

The formalities ended on a high note with Anita van Niekerk of Finesse magazine sharing a writer’s view of telling other peoples’ stories. Some of her most profound pieces include a look at the highs and lows of Joost van der Westhuizen’s life and how one woman overcame her gambling addiction. •

A celebration for the gents

O

n 25 July, Coschem hosted its inaugural men’s social and networking event at the Randpark Golf Club, in Johannesburg.

A beautiful crisp morning and stunning views of the golf course set the tone for an inspiring and valuable day of networking for the 40 guests who attended. Like the popular, long-standing Coschem ladies’ day, this event for the men of personal care industry combined entertainment, life experiences, philanthropy, a fun yet challenging quiz, motivational talks and relaxation in the form of neck and shoulder massages by Colour Me Fabulous.

All the guests were asked to bring a soccer ball to donate to the non-profit organisation, GrassRoots Soccer. This global sporting initiative operates in townships and underprivileged communities, using soccer and other sports as a means of community development.

HEALTH AND HAPPINESS Safety in the workplace was presented by Werner Theron of WT Safety Compliance Consultants. Motul and Lescot enticed the men with a display of classic and custom vehicles; there was also a lucky draw for a custom detailing car treatment, which Wayne Anderson won. After tea, the men were entertained by Caesar Mathebula, a mentor from the Character Company. This non-profit organisation runs an extensive programme that seeks to raise boys with absent fathers to be good men.

Evangelina Kalaitzi dispelled a variety of myths on diet and nutrition – which can often be very confusing as a result of information overload. Pieter van der Westhuizen, brother of the late rugby hero, Joost, shared an emotional account of his journey with his brother, from their childhood to the days leading up to his death. His talk was filled with so many of the happy moments

LADIES CELEBRATE THEIR STRONG CONNECTIONS

shared between Pieter and Joost. The day culminated with a delicious lunch on the patio overlooking the golf course. It was highly successful, thanks to the sponsors, and is set to become an annual event on the Coschem calendar. •

Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |

49

Tea time TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

+27 (0)71 438 1918

Afriplex....................................................39.........www.afriplex.co.za Anderson Engineering.............................23.........www.andersoneng.co.za Botanica Natural Products.......................34.........www.botanica.africa Botanichem.............................................32.........www.botanichem.co.za ChemSystems..........................................21.........www.chemsystems.co.za Chemical Initiatives.................................40.........www.cheminit.co.za CJP Chemicals..................................... OBC.........www.cjpchemicals.co.za Clariant.....................................................5.........www.clariant.com/personalcare Croda......................................................25.........www.croda.com Evonik........................................................6.........www.evonik.com Future Publishing Solutions........................9.........www.saphex.co.za H&R Group..............................................29.........www.hur.com IMCD.................................................... OFC.........www.imcdgroup.com Laboratory & Biological Services.............. 18.........www.labserve.co.za

50

| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Quick Crossword Clues Down 1. Abominable snowman (4) 2. Serviette (6) 3. Indolent (4) 4. Choice (9) 5. Marine mollusk (6)

7. Sustenance (9) 11. Time of year (6) 12. Gentle breeze (6) 15. Untrusting (4) 16. Aquatic bird (4)

Across 1. Hanker (5) 3. Lariat (5) 6. Decimal base (3) 8. Conundrums (7) 9. Garret (5) 10. Dull pain (4)

13. Long narrative poem (4) 14. Commence (5) 17. Vegetable (7) 18. Novel (3) 19. Nursemaid (5) 20. Synthetic fabric (5)

Merck......................................................27.........www.merck.co.za MGSA Projects.........................................45.........myles@mgsaprojects.co.za Nautica Organic Trading..........................28.........www.nauticaorganics.com O6 Agencies............................................33.........www.06southernafrica.com Omron.....................................................43.........www.industrial.omron.co.za Protea Chemicals....................................35.........www.proteachemicals.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals.................. 19, 31.........www.savannah.co.za SDK Agencies......................................... IFC.........www.sdkagencies.com Sensient Cosmetic Technologies..............36.........www.sensientcosmetics.com Serendipity Toiletries................................ 13.........www.serendipitytoiletries.co.za Triton Pharmacare...................................20.........www.tritonpharma.co.za Vantage Speciality Chemicals..................37.........www.vantagegrp.com Vital Health Foods.................................... 15.........www.vital.co.za Zinplex Cosmeceutical............................ 12.........www.zinplex.co.za

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water &

Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and

Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility,

closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is

licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the

your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &

World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of

cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.

accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

FORMPAK

BRB SILICONES

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

The largest independent producer in the world of

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

core and specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.

www.brb-international.com

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER

QUANTUM COLOURS SA

Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme

Your No. 1 industry leader

offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social

for the most comprehensive

needs and well being.

ranges of both synthetic and

At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across

natural colours – used in food,

SA, cosmetics are used as tools

pharmaceutical, cosmetic and

to address visible side effects of

industrial applications.

treatment to assist patients to restore

Tablet coatings – manufactured,

self-esteem and face the world

supplied and marketed globally

with confidence.

under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.lgfb.co.za

www.quantumcolours.co.za

Biodegradable alternatives to silicone oil to smooth cuticles and repair hair fiber damage

Cuticles Hair Tresses Observation

Non treated

EMOGREEN™ L15

EMOSMART™ V21

Dimethicone

Tel: +27 11 494 6700 | info@cjpchemicals.co.za | www. cjpchemicals.co.za SEPPIC S.A - 22 Terrasse Bellini, Paris la Défense - 92806 Puteaux cedex, France Tel. +33 ( 0 )1 42 91 40 00 - info.seppic@airliquide.com

seppic.com

HINA

C

Design : Gris Souris - Photo : Shutterstock - GEMSEAL® BioLife is a trademark of TOTAL Group

50% improvement in rinse-off formulas

China Compliant: All INCI names are listed on the IECIC 2015