Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review October 2018

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

October 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 10

www.pharmacos.co.za

SKIN CARE REDEFINED: Powerful actives, new claims & novel technologies

Celebrating 25 years

of measurable quality & excellence in pharma, nutrition & biotechnology products

Aerosols thrive with investments and partnerships Hi-tech ingredients for therapeutic body care

Kirsch Pharma HealthCare

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

14

October 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 10

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

Significant microbiota discovery for Silab

Chempure revamps its corporate identity

26 SKIN CARE

9 ON THE STREET

Lipochroman molecule protects and detoxes skin

Millchem promises beautiful skin with novel actives

SmartLipids, a high-tech delivery system

10 EVENTS

Evonik launches care solutions business unit

Protect the skin from artificial visible light

Countdown to SAPHEX 2018

L’Oréal introduces Mixa in key African markets

Highlights from the Afriplex symposium

Natural and organic transparency from DSM

What’s new in South Africa

16 QUALITY CONTROL

37 SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING

New discovery to standardise antibiotic testing

Activate lipolysis with a new biological pathway

Automate pharma research with syringe pumps

The rise of the therapeutic body care category

Stability solutions for the hasty developer

40 PHARMA FOCUS: MADE IN SA

20 AEROSOLS

Serialisation tips to implement track and trace

Puregas honours long standing partners

Positive results for Adcock Ingram

ONCAP acquires Precision Global

9

actives for beautiful skin

24 INDUSTRY TALK

IMCD South Africa partners with TechnoGirl

8 | Volume 44 October 201

28

| Number 10

W IE V E R g n i g a k c Pa 46

RICAN SOUTH AF

cos.co.za ww w.pharma

n Precisio n solutio snd

es a for perfum ticals u e c a pharm

46 Glass Packaging

The promise of premium

48 ASSOCIATION NEWS

rs gy disrupto TechnoloM ini from arches

The latest from Coschem and the AMA

ery ck fit for ev Flexible epa ing stag of recycl P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM

Healthy skin is

S

EDITORIAL

beautiful skin

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za

kin care is the third largest category

inspired by therapeutic body care trends, with

in the South African beauty and

claims ranging from firming and tightening,

personal care industry. This is

contour improvement, detoxification, cellulite

followed by fragrances in second

reduction and even weight loss benefits –

position and hair care, which leads at

though the latter two are highly contentious

number one. These statistics are according

from a regulatory perspective.

to Euromonitor International’s 2017 research

It’s been a busy month for the aerosols

on beauty and personal care in

industry with the AMA golf day and prize giving

sub-Saharan Africa.

dinner (page 49) and the Puregas Awards

Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Contributors: Alicia Giménez, Dr Alison Halliday, Eulalia González, John Knowlton, Marie Ollagnier, Olga Laporta, Raquel Delgado ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za

Data from a recent study conducted by

(page 20). On page 22, Precision Valve South

L’Oréal South Africa’s Research & Innovation

Africa discusses developments stemming from

Sales Executive: Gayle Kihn +27 (0)82 457 0896 gayle.kihn@newmediapub.co.za

Centre shows more than 99 percent of women

ONCAP’s acquisition of Precision Global. Set to

INTERNATIONAL SALES

surveyed in key South African and African

be a positive move for Precision’s sites all over

markets have pigmentation disorders. These

the world, operations at Precision Valve South

range from an uneven complexion to stretch

Africa are earmarked to be crucial to the

marks. The study also documented their

future of the global business.

aspirations, which include matte, even tone, smooth and glowing skin.

Considering these trends, it’s important

In our regular PACKAGING REVIEW section, Aarifah Nosarka presents a strong business case for glass packaging, highlighting a

suppliers bring actives and ingredients to

massive gap in South Africa for manufacturing

the market that are not only relevant but

and supplying glass fragrance bottles. Turn

also effective on all the Fitzpatrick skin types

to page 46 for more info on the beauty and

represented in South Africa’s diverse consumer

practical benefits of glass.

landscape. In this edition of P C Review,

Our social media communities dedicated to

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo

we’ve featured a few options that could do

cosmetics, pharma and health supplements

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za

well in the South African context. Turn to our

manufacturing and the packaging industry,

Production Controller: Rae Morrison

skin care feature on page 26 to read about a

are growing. If you want to be part of the

Art Director: David Kyslinger

molecule proven to improve the appearance

conversation and gain access to value added

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

of skin; a range of actives that calm sensitive

content, follow:

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

skin, brighten it and provide a youthful glow;

@PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview

a novel encapsulation technology to deliver

@packagingreview

retinol to the skin in a safe and controlled way;

@SApharmacos

and new products on the market to soothe

@pharmacosreview

and restore compromised skin.

Another category to watch is slimming

Enjoy the read!

and body contouring, featured on page 37.

Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Bridget McCarney

Nowadays, products in this category are

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

Irna van Zyl HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Consultant, drbaileys.com

Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

Suppliers of Automated Equipment and Project Services to all Industries For your complete Small to Turnkey Solutions

NEWS

Pharma could CHEMPURE propel Africa into REVEALS ITS NEW CORPORATE IDENTITY the forefront of healthcare A TRUSTED SUPPLIER to the personal care, food and beverage, health and wellness, and sports nutrition industries, Chempure has grown over the last 25 years. It’s therefore fitting the company’s vision, values and brand also evolve to reflect what Chempure stands for today.

The future of the business continues to unfold rapidly as it strives to deliver innovative solutions and speciality ingredients in the many dynamic markets it serves.

Remaining at the forefront of innovation requires agility to meet customers’ changing needs. This is reflected in Chempure’s new brand architecture and on its redesigned website www. chempure.co.za.

The new corporate identity satisfies all the expectations of what the company’s original branding stood for while moving it forward and acknowledging Chempure’s agility, excellence and global reach. The red triangle represents the dynamic and solid local foundation of the company.

Chempure’s global reach and turnkey offering, from sourcing quality speciality ingredients and providing technical development support to supplying directly to customers, are embodied in the dark blue circle.

Look out for the company’s new branding on social media – like @ChempureSA on Facebook or follow Chempure on LinkedIn for regular updates on its products and services.

THE FOURTH INDUSTRIAL number of patients on life-saving Revolution has a profound effect medication for therapeutic areas on the pharma industry. New such as HIV, oncology, respiratory technology assists with earlier and neurological conditions,’ diagnoses, enhanced manufacturing Miller explained. For example, in capabilities and improved treatment 2001, Cipla pioneered a fixed-dose plans by using data to better antiretroviral (ARV) combination, understand patients’ needs. This reducing the cost of ARVs from is according to Cipla South Africa’s US$12 500 annually to less CEO, Paul Miller, who than US$1 per day. The cost spoke at the 10 th BRICS of this medication has since summit, which took been reduced to US$0.30 place from 25 to 27 per day.

July at the Sandton In Africa, the Ugandan Convention Centre.

Cipla QCIL facility has ‘Data will be the biggest manufactured the first Pa ul Miller driver behind changes batch of a new powerful in healthcare and the ARV medicine for first line catalyst for quantum leaps in terms HIV treatment. According to Miller’s of medical research,’ he said. The twitter feed, it is the only facility theme for BRICS 2018 was ‘BRICS in in Africa to produce this medicine Africa: Cooperation with developing under the strict quality standards of countries for inclusive growth and the World Health Organization. shared prosperity in the Fourth Cipla is committed to Industrial Revolution’. manufacturing in Africa for Africa.

Cipla was one of the sponsors The company has also invested of the summit. ‘In partnership with in enhancing its Cipla Medpro Cipla India, we’ve been able to bring Manufacturing plant in KwaZuluaffordable healthcare to more South Natal, significantly increasing its Africans, thereby increasing the production capacity for ARVs.

SAVE ON LABOUR

AND BOOST YOUR OUTPUT OMRON’S NEW LINE of Scara robots boasts a sleek design and enhanced performance. Named the i4, these new generation robots save space on the production floor and allow for easier configuration into existing production lines. It is also fast, repeatable, easy to operate and flexible for multiple configurations and applications.

Manufacturers around the world are facing major challenges having to produce a high mix low volume of products while dealing with labour issues and shorter product life cycles. These companies must maintain flexibility in quick changeovers and production line layout alterations. They are also challenged by sudden stops and need to meet the demands of high accuracy and speed during production. To overcome these challenges, the i4

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| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

line features better communication through EtherCAT, enabling synchronisation between other automation devices.

This facilitates advanced assembly, inserting and mounting processes, which require high accuracy and demanding throughput. It also ensures quality control with vision integration.

With the world’s first built-in signals for preventive maintenance, the i4 robots visualise working data and supervises its status, allowing users to mitigate unplanned downtime. In keeping with Omron’s mission to innovate based on industry demand, the features of the new Scara line make it possible for manufacturers to meet the demands of mass customisation. This

Omron’s new i4 Scara family of robots

allows them to produce high mixes of products at low volumes, offering a wider array of goods to customers and consumers.

In 2019, Omron will introduce the first three models: the i4-650; i4-750 and i4-850, which have an arm reach of 650, 750 and 850mm, respectively. •

Silab decrypts mature skin’s microbial signature

NEWS

A Silab researcher performs skin microbiota facial sampling by swabbing

THE RESEARCH TEAMS of Silab’s microbiota platform have shown ageing results in an imbalance of the cutaneous microbiota of Caucasian women. This important discovery has just been published in the peer-reviewed Journal of Applied Microbiology. Facial skin

samples were taken from young and old Caucasian women and analysed by Silab’s researchers using a high-tech MiSeq tool.

Bioinformatic analysis of the data showed a distribution of the microbiota changes during the course of ageing.

‘Previous studies on Asian women had shown a change in the cutaneous microbiota during the course of ageing.

Nevertheless, given that each population has a different microbial signature, it was of interest to the scientific community to decrypt the imbalances of the agerelated cutaneous microbiota specifically in Caucasian women,’ says Romain Jugé,

OVER 200 HALAL COMPLIANT INGREDIENTS AS A GLOBAL supplier of cosmetics ingredients, Symrise understands the specific requirements of the Islamic population and provides a comprehensive palette of Halal certified products. Its manufacturing facilities in Singapore and its headquarters in Holzminden, Germany comply with Halal guidelines.

Symrise offers more than compliant 200 products, which meet the personal care needs of Muslim consumers.

‘We are pleased to be able to offer our customers a wide range of ingredients bearing the Halal seal thanks to our certified production facilities,’ says Dr Gabriele Vielhaber, senior vice president, cosmetics ingredients, at Symrise.

The Frescolat range of ingredients provides cooling and refreshing benefits.

In the established micro protection category, Symrise offers a full set of ingredients to assist with antimicrobial product and skin

protection. These Frescolat products mostly offer multifunctional benefits.

Hydrolite 5 green improves look, consistency and protects a formulation while SymClariol is a multifunctional ingredient suited to oily scalp and anti-dandruff applications.

SymCalmin calms skin irritations and soothes redness, which can occur due to the build-up of sweat.

The SymHair range for hair care products protects the fibres from dust and breakage and improve shine and combability.

Symrise’s extensive offering of cosmetics ingredients includes actives, emollients, solubilisers, UV filters and plant extracts all with Halal certification. Due to the globally sustained growth of the Muslim population, the demand for products made in line with Islamic regulations increase to be in greater.

In response, Symrise is constantly working to expand its range of Halal products.

Silab’s R&D project leader. Based on this finding, anti-ageing cosmetics of the future can contain active ingredients that restore the balance of the microbiota of mature skin.

The results of the in vivo modelling studies also led to the substantiation of Ecobiotys using by metasequencing on panels of volunteers. Ecobiotys the first active ingredient bio-inspired by the high regulating capacity of floral nectar microbiota – the Nectarobiota. It rebalances the distribution of bacterial communities on mature skin by strengthening the skin’s immune and mechanical barriers. This improves the quality of the skin barrier and enhances the complexion.

Ecobiotys is available in South Africa from Meganede.

WORLD’S TOP 25 PHARMA COMPANIES AS PER GLOBALDATA THE PERFORMANCE HIGHLIGHTS of the top 25 publicly traded global pharma companies by market cap (Mcap), for the quarter ended 30 June 2018 (Q2), have been analysed by GlobalData. The collective Mcap of the top 25 reached around US$2.7 trillion, growing marginally at 1.1 percent in Q2 2018. Merck US, Bayer, GSK, Eli Lilly, CSL and Shire all achieved double digit Mcap growth during Q2.

J&J maintained its number one spot while Chinese pharma company, Jiangsu Hengrui Medicine, made it onto the list at number 24.

Pfizer was second on the list, Roche third, Novartis AG fourth and Merck & Co was fifth. Six of the companies on the list experienced positive Mcap growth in Q2, with CSL, Shire and Bayer achieving 24, 20 and 16 percent, respectively.

Yet the Mcap of BMS and Celgene declined by over 10 percent. Institutional investors in BMS traded a substantial number of shares in

Q2 which is thought to have impacted the company’s Mcap performance while setbacks in some key pipeline drugs affected Celgene’s Mcap value.

There were plenty of new developments and market activity during the review period, with big pharma companies focusing more on their core business areas.

BMS announced its intention to sell its French consumer health business; P&G acquired Merck KGaA’s vitamin brands; GSK bought a consumer healthcare joint venture from Novartis for US$13 billion and Pfizer announced plans to divest from its European generics business.

In geographical terms, North America contributed an aggregate Mcap of US$1.5 trillion, with 13 companies featuring among the top 25. The Mcap of European and Asia-Pacific pharma businesses grew 3.2 and 16.5 percent respectively during Q2. •

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

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| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

January 2019 COSME Tech 2019 30 January to 1 February Makuhari Messe, Japan www.cosme-i.jp/en

STREET 1 Focused skin care

2 Made with pride

Manufactured locally, Skin Oil from Africa is formulated with BioPharm Oil, which includes Ceramide NG. This active ingredient

New from Environ, the Focus Care range pushes scientific

mimics an essential skin molecule, capturing and binding water

boundaries. There are three ranges in the stable with products

required by the epidermis to remain supple, smooth and hydrated.

that contain powerful formulations based on intelligent

It offers intensive skin care benefits to care for scars, improve skin

ingredient combinations. Focus Care Youth+ assists with

health, moisturise dry skin and address stretch marks. Skin Oil from

younger looking, smoother skin. The Focus Care Moisture+

Africa is sold in Pick n Pay stores nationwide.

range is designed to deliver moisturising benefits to dull, dry and dehydrated skin. The Focus Care Comfort+ range relieves and

3 Bust the bulge

soothes sensitive skin.

5 Tough on dry skin

4 Invisible sun protection

New from Genop Healthcare,

Inspired by thermal water mist, Anthelios’ first high UVA

Epi-max Man is an all-purpose

and UVB protection sunscreen is easy to apply and

emollient moisturiser for dry

quickly absorbed. It delivers double anti-shine action

skin, eczema and sensitive skin

with an ultra-dry matte finish and does not leave a

conditions. It contains the Epi-max

white residue. This broad spectrum sunscreen is highly

trusted formulation, which creates

moisturising yet light and fresh. It is ideal

a protective barrier on the skin,

for oily, sensitive and blemish-prone skin

reduces moisture loss and helps

and can be worn over or under

skin regenerate. Epi-max Man is

makeup. La Roche-Posay products

free of artificial colourants and

are sold nationwide in Dischem

fragrances and can be used as

retail pharmacies.

frequently as needed. Epi-max Man is packaged in masculine

4

grey packaging to differentiate it from the regular Epi-max products, making shopping for Epi-max Man easier and convenient.

Drop Away Lipo Reduce promises to get you beach confident in 21 days. The innovative formula of this cellulite busting and inch loss cream is designed to help reduce the appearance of dimples. Lipo reducer complex Boost-LP Tropical Fruit Longane and Apple Nutricible 121D decrease the formation and storage of fat. The complex Boost-LP (developed from Pomotherapie) intensifies the fat burning action of caffeine, producing a slimming and firming effect. Caffeine and Brown Algae break down the fat while Ive, Hamamelis, Black Crowberry and Horse Chestnut activate microcirculation. Visit www.dropaway.co.uk for more information.

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P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

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The countdown has begun to SAPHEX 2018. Visitors to the show can look forward to one on one engagements with over 150 exhibitors on APIs, excipients, packaging, processing machinery, lab equipment, software solutions, clean room products and new investment opportunities. P C Review takes a sneak peek at what you can expect to see at the event.

S

Uniting global pharma people and products in Africa

SAPHEX had a hugely successful

new ideas into life changing innovations,

launch in 2017, establishing itself as

using trusted life sciences intelligence

it provides unbreakable product

the ‘go-to’ networking and business

and analytics.

authentication at a minimal cost

event for the African pharma

manufacturing industry.

It partners with professionals throughout

Using Pagemark Pelta technology,

to the manufacturer. It also offers a

the pharma innovation lifecycle at the

comprehensive range of metal detectors,

discovery, development, protection and

check weighers, X-Ray units, reputable

Series, the exhibition takes on 1 and 2

commercialisation stages. Visit stand B7 to

continuous inkjet and laser marking

November place, alongside The Pharmacy

find out how Clarivate Analytics can help

systems, blister packaging machines,

Show, at Gallagher Convention Centre in

you help others faster.

tablet counters, vision inspection systems

Organised by the Africa Pharma Event

Midrand, Gauteng.

and tablet manufacturing solutions,

SGD Pharma

giving you full unit level traceability of

show are both local and international

The primary focus of SGD Pharma is to

your products, from manufacturing to end

companies that supply a range of products

produce premium quality packaging

use. Visit stand B24 to discuss the value

and services for the pharma industry.

according to global pharmacopoeia

TracePack can offer you.

The exhibitors taking part in this year’s

standards. It also partners with

Clarivate Analytics

customers in the development and

BioClean and Ansell

Clarivate Analytics understands the

realisation of their projects, from design

BioClean offers the largest range of

challenges facing the pharma industry.

to manufacturing.

gloves under one brand. It also supplies

These include productivity issues, priority

Quality and patient safety are

disposable garments that provide head to

reviews, mixed messages from business

paramount at SGD Pharma. Based in

toe protection, a selection of autoclavable

data, developments in immune therapy,

France, its production sites are ISO 15378

or single use goggles, chemo safety wear

competitive positioning and rising drug

certified and comply with GMP. All bottles

for critical extra protection, facemasks

costs. The company is a global leader in

are produced and packaged in clean

suitable for all controlled environments

providing trusted insights and analytics to

room ISO 8 controlled environments.

and a comprehensive choice of

accelerate the pace of innovation.

Through ensuring continuous supply,

essential accessories.

Clarivate Analytics is on a mission to help radically reduce the time it takes to change

SDG Pharma promises to protect its

sciences solutions portfolio, which

back-up solutions between its different

complies with the rigorous ISO and EN

manufacturing sites for all types of glass.

regulations and maintains consistently

The group’s mission, aligned with its DNA,

BioClean’s personal protective equipment meets the demanding requirements of sterile environments

10

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

BioClean forms part of Ansell’s life

customers and patients. It also provides

high standards. Experts from Ansell will be

is to improve and protect a patient’s health

available at stand A8 to discuss the best

by providing customers with high quality

ways to keep your products and workers

and reliable primary glass packaging.

safe in critical environments.

TracePac

Berry Global

Are you looking for faultless marking, coding

With 135 manufacturing sites worldwide,

and security solutions for your pharma

Berry Global is a leader in plastic

products? The unique authentication

packaging, nonwoven materials and films

offerings from TracePack ensure the security

for the healthcare industry. Its pharma

of your manufactured goods, completely

packaging expertise spans the full range of

eliminating counterfeiting.

drug delivery routes, from child resistant and

SAPHEX CONFERENCE SPEAKERS AND TOPICS

the thermal treatment of hazardous waste.

Its unique thermal desorption plant utilises pyrolysis technology, which is capable of

• Martha Smit of Fasken will share the keynote

achieving 99.9999 percent destruction of all

address on The Impact of the need for Global

hazardous waste.

Harmonisation of Regulation and Compliance

A-Thermal has just completed an exciting

Requirements on the survival of the Life Sciences

project to produce a carbonised residue

Industry

by-product from the variable forms of

• What’s next for Sterile Contract Manufacturing in Emerging Markets; Primary Packaging Solutions for

Risdop, Berry Global’s new innovative packaging for eyedrops

Wearable Injectors, and The Best Plastic Vial and Syringe for Biologics will be discussed on day one

hazardous waste processed in its plant. The carbonised residue has similar properties to coal and can be used as a fuel alternative.

senior friendly closures to user-independent

This positions A-Thermal as a zero-landfill

droppers. The company manufactures

waste management treatment facility. To

about Safe Products from the Factory Floor to your

bottles, jars, tubes, vials, child resistant

the company’s knowledge, it is a world first

Patients’ Hands

and tamper evident closures, ophthalmic

for thermal treatment processes.

• Kyle Parker of Traceability Solutions will talk

• Impact of Blockchain Technology to Stop

packaging, drug delivery devices and nasal

A-Thermal also specialises in the

Counterfeit Drugs will be discussed by Shana

sprays and pumps. It can also develop

permanent and secure destruction

Derman of Intellicred

custom packaging solutions.

of pharmaceuticals. Operations are

• William van Aarde of The Talent Seekers will focus on Skills & Mindset – A Roadmap for Change

At stand B8, Berry Global will showcase

supervised by a full-time pharmacist

Risdop – an innovative user-independent

who ensures legal compliance with the

eyedropper with a unique nozzle that helps

regulations governing the destruction of

prevent over dosage.

medicines. Visit stand B28 for more info.

of A-Thermal

A-Thermal

SAP partner, PTS3

• Sascha Rother of Basan will share insight into the

Primarily servicing the pharma and

SAP ERP software is a completely integrated

chemical manufacturing industries,

solution that can provide pharma

A-Thermal Retort Technologies specialises in

manufacturers with real time data at their

• Key Regulatory Changes to Destruction of Medicine, Scheduled Substances and Medical Devices will be presented by Martin McClintock

Bio-decontamination of Pharmaceutical Facilities.

PHARMACEUTICALS • SCHEDULE 5 AND 6 • COSMETICS • MEDICAL DEVICES • AEROSOLS • RAW MATERIAL • MANUFACTURING WASTE • QC LAB WASTE • BIOLOGICAL AND ANATOMICAL WASTE • CHEMICALS • SOLVENTS • PESTICIDES • ON-SITE WASTE MANAGEMENT • WASTE TRANSPORT • AND MORE

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

11

fingertips. It allows for business process reengineering and analyses with multiple MIS reports, which are useful for growth.

One of the fastest growing SAP partners in India, PTS3 has built a reputation for the ontime delivery of intricate solutions to SMEs in diverse industries.

The company is managed by highly knowledgeable professionals with 25 to 30 years’ industry experience. PTS3 has successfully implemented SAP ERP in in more than 86 organisations, including pharma manufacturing, chemicals, automation, plastics production

Eurofarma’s industrial complex located in Itapevi, Spain, is among the largest pharma manufacturing groups in Latin America

Aptar Pharma

Zhonghe

Exhibiting for the first time at SAPHEX,

Injectable Hexin Thymopentin was the first

PTS3’s global footprint spans India, the

Aptar Pharma is a leading provider of

peptide drug developed by Zhonghe in

US, Dubai, Qatar and Bahrain with plans to

innovative drug delivery systems to the

1997. Its approval marked the start of the

expand into South Africa. Visit stand C29 to

pharma, consumer healthcare and

peptide industry in China.

find out more.

biotech industries.

and hospitals.

At stand C25, visitors will have the

Since then, diversified peptide products have been launched covering many

Eurofarma

opportunity to explore the company’s

therapeutic areas such as the immune

Brazil’s first multinational pharma

extensive and innovative drug

system, antineoplastics, hepatopathy, the

manufacturer, Eurofarma has a presence in

delivery solutions portfolio across all

digestive and urinary systems, gynaecology

19 countries in Latin America and a regional

its therapeutic areas including nasal,

and obstetrics.

office in Africa, in Mozambique. Its portfolio

pulmonary, injectables and eyecare.

comprises hospital, oncology, prescription,

Aptar Pharma has over 50 years’

Besides caring for human health, the company has an extensive CSR

OTC and veterinarian products.

experience in providing customers with

programme. During the SARS epidemic

Europharma has six manufacturing plants

a large range of specialised delivery

in 2003, Zhonghe donated thymopentin

in Brazil and five more located in several

devices, components, analytical services

anti-SARS drugs to the value of more than

Latin American countries. Its main 300m²

and regulatory support.

US$1 million to treat thousands of affected

facility in São Paulo is equipped with modern

With a strong focus on innovation,

patients. Visit stand B1 to discover more

technology and holds various global

the company is a leader in developing

about Zhonghe, a leading peptide drugs

pharma manufacturing certifications.

connected devices to deliver digital

manufacturer based in China.

The company has a vision to recreate

medicines. South Africa is an interesting

its Latin American success in Africa and is

market for Aptar Pharma. Its experts will

exhibiting at SAPHEX to discuss strategic

Codal-Synto

be available during the expo to discuss

An established provider of generic

partnerships with potential investors. Be sure

the latest trends and innovations in drug

medicines, Codal-Synto from Cyprus has

to visit Eurofarma at stand B14.

delivery systems.

expertise in supplying private and public healthcare systems and export markets.

The company was originally established to address pharmaceutical needs on

Innovative drug delivery systems from Aptar Pharma

the Mediterranean island. Since then it has expanded its geographical network, exporting to countries in Europe, the Middle East, Africa and Asia. The company outsources all manufacturing and packing to Medochemie, a branded generics manufacturer of global scale.

As a result, Codal-Synto has a lean management structure that allows it to supply generics at competitive prices.

Experts from Codal-Synto will be at stand B5 to answer all your off-shore manufacturing and pharma exporting questions. •

Visit www.saphex.co.za to view the full list of exhibitors and to find out more information about the event.

12

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

EVENTS

Plants, science and sustainability

The global market for health supplements is growing.

Consumer interest in healthy living and differentiated research on active ingredients are propelling the industry into a new frontier. These trends and more were evident at the recent Afriplex Technical Symposium.

Regarded as a developmental first in

Dr Hlupheka Chabalala

South Africa, Afriplex GRT is a new API based on the naturally occurring flavonoid compounds found in rooibos. It has been developed in partnership with the South African Medical Research Council and Agricultural Research Council to target specific metabolic syndrome-related dysfunctions in the body.

In addition to producing extracts, Afriplex

By Abby Vorster

C

is the local agent for Activ’Inside.

Riaan Botes of Arista Health with Afriplex’s responsible pharmacist, Robert Longrigg

entred on the theme ‘Harnessing Nature’s Best’, the symposium took place on 12 September at the

JSE Conference Centre in Sandton, Johannesburg. The programme featured

La uren McMilla n

local and international speakers who shared compelling information on

novel actives for nutra-ceutical applications.

Memophenol is proven for its brain memory benefits, SkinAx2 for improving beauty from within and Safr’Inside for mood and emotional balance.

Regulatory developments Claims, regulations and compliance were

biodiversity, natural ingredients, regulatory

underlined by Wayne Robinson, director of

developments, market trends, APIs and

business development at Afriplex.

the more contentious subject of Cannabis

While a single complementary

and Cannabidiol.

medicine or health supplement is yet to

Biodiversity and scientific capacity

be registered by the South African Health

are key elements in directly addressing

Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA),

poverty, unemployment and inequality

Robinson said various positives have come

in our country. This is according to Dr

from the regulatory developments. ‘The

Hlupheka Chabalala of the Department of

industry has come a long way in terms of

Science and Technology, who discussed

pharmacovigilance and quality standards.

the Indigenous Knowledge (IK)-Based

It’s also noteworthy that brands are using

Bio-Diversity Innovation Programme with

compliant manufacturers and the correct

symposium delegates.

ingredients for their products.’

The programme features six platforms:

Despite the challenges associated with

African Natural Medicine; IK-Based

the regulations, it is still possible to launch

Cosmeceuticals; IK-Based Nutraceuticals;

new health supplements in South Africa.

Health Infusions (Beverages); Technology

However, Robinson advises brands to take

Transfer and Manufacturing; and Marketing

caution with claims.

and Commercialisation. All six empower

‘SAHPRA has adopted a risk-based

rural communities to become thriving societies. Using modern technology, the

this unique ingredient for products aimed

programme beneficiates indigenous

at diabetic end-users and those suffering

knowledge and brings the spirit of ubuntu

from metabolic syndrome.

into science to eradicate poverty.

This innovative French company offers three

Folicin A/T is the company’s first API phyto extract to assist with male

Powerful actives and ingredients

pattern baldness. The extract’s phyto

Afriplex offers a wide range of botanical

chemicals have been shown to be

phyto extracts and API phyto extracts

effective in reducing oxidative stress and

developed. Lauren McMillan, part of

as a 5a-reductase inhibitor for use in the

the dynamic pharmaceutical marketing

treatment of hair loss, BPH and androgenic

team, highlighted Afriplex GRT as part of

alopecia. Developed in collaboration with

this API basket. McMillan emphasised the

the CSIR, the efficacy of Folicin A/T topical

incredible evidence-based effectivity of

has been proven in vivo.

approach when it comes to claims,’ he explains. ‘The risk level of a product is determined by the type of claim and the evidence on which it’s based. If you can’t prove the claim, don’t make it and don’t market off label.’

Brands whose products are good enough, shouldn’t have to market off label.

This is why it’s crucial for marketing and regulatory teams to work together to ensure compliance. •

Afriplex – www.afriplex.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

13

COMPANY FOCUS

Local relevance, global expertise

and a can-do attitude

Kirsch Pharma South Africa is celebrating its 25th anniversary. Supported by innovative operations in Europe, the local subsidiary is on a solid growth trajectory. Abby Vorster looks at the strategy behind its success in South Africa and how the global business contributes to its competitiveness.

A NEW ERA IN HEALTHCARE KIRSCH PHARMA is expanding its range of pharma products and services along the value chain with the launch of Kirsch Pharma HealthCare. This modern and flexible GMP approved production plant, based in Bissendorf, is dedicated to the production of solid dosage forms for sports and infant nutrition and the

T

pharma and diagnostics markets.

Housed within a futuristic building designed by South

ransparency, ethics, consistent

African architect, Stefan Antoni, the new subsidiary

quality, personalised customer service and a close to market

Kirsch Pharma Healthcare

focus are the key contributors to

Kirsch Pharma’s ongoing success. This

quality products and meeting customers

family business was launched in Germany

individual needs, regardless of the size of

38 years ago. With a vision for growth,

their orders.’

Kirsch Pharma spread its footprint across the globe, testing foreign markets

Flexibility in focus

long before they became favourable.

Kirsch Pharma offers ingredients for

South Africa was one of those foreign

innovative formulations and individual

Herm an n Broschk

includes a 1 800m² production area, 1 200m² of storage space to accommodate 1 000 pallets and office space spanning 1 300m² with 20 designated work areas.

The facility will have the capacity and expertise to produce intermediates and finished pharmaceuticals and is expected to come online soon. A modular approach has been incorporated in its design to allow for customised process steps such as granulation, micronising and tabletting. The first phase of

markets, which, before 1994,

solutions. Its portfolio includes a

was viewed with scepticism by

comprehensive range of different

investors. Yet the timing was right

products, ingredients and blends adapted

for the German company. Its

to customers’ requirements in the pharma,

local representative Holpro Fine

nutrition, veterinary and biotechnology

product or blend and compliance with the

Chemicals was facing closure

markets. These products are available in

current monographs is ensured.

at the time, so Kirsch Pharma

more than 1 000 different packaging and

made the bold move to invest

product combinations, ranging from small

documentation and the continual

in South Africa, launching the

packs to big bags.

improvement of its processes as essential

subsidiary in 1993.

In South Africa, the company’s core

production at Kirsch Pharma HealthCare will focus on sachet filling.

Kirsch Pharma sees its comprehensive

quality factors. As a result, the processes

offering includes inorganic salts and

related to the production and delivery of

helm of Kirsch Pharma South Africa since

customised blends. Broschk says

its products are executed smoothly and

2008. Global owner and MD, Mr Heinz-

there is increased demand in the

are completely traceable. ‘There is nothing

Jurgen Kirsch says Broschk continues to

market for customised blends that

that can’t be done,’ exclaims Mr Kirsch!

lead the subsidiary on a successful path.

are tested according to a company’s

The global company holds the following

‘Our strategy is based on client service,’

specific requirements.

globally relevant certifications: DIN ISO

Hermann Broschk has been at the

Broschk explains. ‘Over the years, we have

The GMP approved facility in Germany is

9001; FSSC 22000; ICH-GMP; GMP+; Kosher; MUI-Halal; AEO; SEDEX and EcoVadis.

stayed true to our word and delivered

equipped with state of the art technology

on what we could within a specialised

to meet the needs of customers in South

product portfolio.

Africa, processing raw materials sourced

A trusted supplier

from co-producers and testing

By finding the right balance in terms of local

everything the market demands, yet

them accordingly. From blending,

market demands and what it can offer,

it’s tough to remain competitive when

milling and sieving to compaction and

Kirsch Pharma South Africa has doubled

you have an expansive portfolio.

granulation, Kirsch Pharma’s flexibility

its turnover over the past two years. It also

Instead, Kirsch Pharma South Africa has

distinguishes the business on a global level.

benefits from the global company’s status as

Commodity suppliers often offer

harnessed its strengths by working within a more specialised portfolio of high

14

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

All raw materials are tested for quality assurance, a full COA is issued with every

a preferred supplier to various multinationals, supplying products to local branches.

COMPANY FOCUS

KIRSCH PHARMA FROM THEN UNTIL NOW 1980 Kirsch Pharma is established in Isernhagen, Germany.

2004 The company implements SAP-R3 globally.

1985 Kirsch Pharma relocates to Salzgitter.

Kirsch Pharma’s GMP approved blending and processing plant

2005 Kirsch Pharma Australia is

1987 The company receives its first manufacturing licence for drug production.

founded in Sydney, Australia.

2006 The company secures HACCP certification from DQS.

1991 Kirsch Pharma España is founded in

2011

Madrid, Spain, with a branch

Kirsch Pharma Shanghai is

in Barcelona.

founded in Pudong, China.

1993 Kirsch Pharma South Africa is founded in Johannesburg.

1995 The company achieves DIN ISO 9001 certification.

1996 A representative office is established in Moscow, Russia.

2013 - 2014

At its Salzgitter premises in Germany, Kirsch Pharma is equipped with extensive warehousing space and infrastructure to manage resources in a sustainable manner

The company receives ICH-GMP and GMP+ certification.

2015 Kirsch Pharma HealthCare is founded.

2016 The company reaches a milestone of employing more than 150 employees worldwide

1997 A representative office is established in Wuxi, China.

and expands its office in Salzgitter by 800m².

It also secures FSSC 22000 certification from DQS.

2001 Kirsch Pharma Asia Pacific is founded in Singapore.

An interior view of Kirsch Pharma HealthCare

Broschk comments: ‘We will continue to supply products based on internationally

2017

approved quality standards while

A new business unit is established in Bissendorf, Germany.

October 2018 Kirsch Pharma South Africa celebrates its 25 anniversary. th

maintaining our trustworthy image among our South African customers. To accommodate our continued growth, Kirsch Pharma South Africa will be moving to new premises in 2019.’

Globally, Kirsch Pharma founded a USA subsidiary in 2018 to directly support multinational pharma companies

third party supplier. While businesses and

throughout North America. The company is

provides employment to approximately

industries have become global, Kirsch

also extending its portfolio of various custom

17 people, who contribute to maintaining

Pharma continues to focus on responding

made blends produced in Germany.

the integrity and focus of the business.

to customers’ individual requirements with

Its local infrastructure includes extensive

regional expertise. ‘This is the reason why

Pharma will continue to conquer the markets

warehousing and office space, which are

we have founded subsidiaries and

it supplies with measurable, reliable and

both ISO 9001 compliant.

numerous representations worldwide,’

compliant solutions that meet the changing

Mr Kirsch explains.

needs of the healthcare, nutrition, biotech

Based in Isando, the company

Kirsch Pharma South Africa’s customers are located throughout the SADC region

In South Africa, Kirsch Pharma is poised

and in east Africa. The company handles

for long term success. This is as a result

its own logistics in Gauteng and outsources

of a sustainable business model that has

all regional and cross border logistics to a

endured for the past 25 years.

In South Africa and worldwide, Kirsch

and veterinary industries. •

Kirsch Pharma – www.kirschpharma.com

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

15

QUALITY CONTROL

Breakthrough in standardising

antibiotic susceptibility testing

A new study makes recommendations for combining two different methods to test bacterial susceptibility of antibiotics. These suggestions could help improve reproducibility between laboratories and provide more clinically relevant information for treating infections. By Dr Alison Halliday

E

very day, thousands of experimental

bacterial colonies on a subculture by

and diagnostic laboratories around

99.9 percent. However, this test attracts

the world carry out antimicrobial

criticism due to its poor reproducibility

susceptibility testing in search of

between laboratories. MBC testing involves

an effective antibiotic to use against a

broth dilution and re-growth of bacteria in

bacterial strain. Yet results can vary widely

antibiotic-free media. The potential variables

between laboratories, prompting the need

include the size of the inoculum, sample

for standardised protocols to improve

mixing and growth phase of the bacteria.

reproducibility and reliability of results. One of the main techniques used by laboratories

A merged approach

is to measure the minimum inhibitory

Assessing both the MBC and MIC may be

concentration (MIC).

a more useful strategy to determine the

Assessing both the MBC and MIC may be a more useful strategy to determine the clinical relevance of an antibiotic

clinical relevance of an antibiotic.

This gauges the lowest antibiotic concentration that inhibits the visible growth of a microorganism after incubation for 16

A new study, published in the Journal of Microbiological Methods, carried out an

Elga LabWater’s Purelab flex system is ideal for research laboratories.

objective, detailed comparison of a range

for the best methods to assess which

of different methodologies to determine the

antibiotics are effective against a bacterial

MIC and MBC1.

strain. These methods will help improve

The researchers tested two bacterial strains,

reproducibility across laboratories, gain

P.aeruginosa PA01 and E.coli ATCC 25922,

more clinically relevant data and enable

against four antibiotics:

a better understanding of the action of

1. gentamicin 2. tobramycin

antibiotic drugs.

To find out more about laboratory water

3. ciprofloxacin

purification systems for your research needs

4. colistin.

visit www.labotec.co.za, Elga Labwater’s

They also tested S.aureus against

approved partner in South Africa. For more

vancomycin.

useful articles visit www.elgalabwater.com. •

Preparation and sample analysis protocol

to 20 hours. The MIC test has limitations.

involved the use of ultrapure water purified

It doesn’t reveal whether the drug kills

using Purelab Flex apparatus from Elga

REFERENCES:

the bacteria, or just halts its growth and

LabWater. The team determined the MIC

1. Klodzinska et al. Combining diagnostic methods for

even more crucial, MIC testing is not

using broth microdilution, a calorimetric

good at predicting the antibiotic’s actual

method and a microscopy-based screening

effectiveness within the body.

system. Flurophore staining was used to

antimicrobial susceptibility testing – a comparative approach. Journal of Microbiological Methods 144 (2018), page 177 to 185.

determine the MBC and subsequently

A killer concentration

compared with the broth regrowth method.

Another measure is to define an antibiotic’s minimal bactericidal concentration (MBC),

New recommendations

which outlines the lowest concentration

After evaluating the results, the researchers

needed to kill the bacteria.

recommended different combinations

This is especially important for patients

of methods to determine the MIC and

with inflammatory diseases or who are

MBC, depending on whether time, cost

immunocompromised. Their immune

or sensitivity is the main priority. They also

systems may not be working well enough

emphasised the importance of uniform

to fully eliminate the pathogens, should an

protocols across different laboratories,

antibiotic only inhibit their growth.

including a suggested standardisation of

To determine the MBC, a test is done

the time point for reading MIC results after

to ascertain the lowest concentration of

20 hours. This innovative and important

an antibiotic that reduces the number of

study proposes new recommendations

16

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

ABOUT After completing an undergraduate degree in biochemistry and genetics at Sheffield University (UK), Dr Halliday was awarded a PhD in human molecular genetics at the University of Newcastle (UK). As a University College London senior postdoctoral research fellow, Dr Halliday investigated the genes involved in a childhood obesity syndrome. She then went on to work at Cancer Research UK for 10 years and currently specialises in writing about research in the life sciences, medicines and healthcare sectors.

QUALITY CONTROL

Syringe pumps based on accuracy and precision

Built for automation in research laboratories, modern syringe pumps are ideal for applications ranging from simple infusions to complex pumping programmes. DG Lab Services reveals how these novel tools have evolved.

S

The New Era range of syringe, peristaltic and infusion pumps and accessories for research facilities

yringe pumps have been in

infusion pumps in research. The early 21st

microfluidics, chemical development and

use for more than 50 years by

century saw the development of smart

mass spectrometry where smaller volumes,

scientists and researchers to save

pumps, which resulted in increased

in the region of nanolitre accuracy, are

lives and conduct high impact

versatility of these pumps for research

required. In drug development, pharma

purposes and patient safety.

manufacturers are highly dependent on

research. They are used to control the flow of fluid with a high level

precision research pumps during preclinical

Value for money

of precision.

Researchers originally developed infusion pumps for controlled drug delivery.

The first infusion pump was invented by Christopher Wren in 1658. According to DG Lab Services, further

DID YOU KNOW?

There are two broad types of syringe pumps, including

Research pumps typically handle smaller volumes and offer additional features that benefit research but are impractical for in vivo use.

developments continued only in the 20th century, progressing from an

development, clinical trials and in large scale manufacturing.

Programmable syringe pumps,

medical infusion pumps and

utilised for their high accuracy and

research syringe pumps.

performance, play a vital role in each of

Medical infusion pumps are

these areas for the controlled delivery of

used to deliver controlled

solutions for analysis and assay. They are

quantities of fluids such as

also a critical component in determining

nutrients, drugs and blood to patients where safety is key in

infusion pump for use in chemotherapy

order to prevent any harm or injury.

to computerised pumps and pump

Research syringe pumps are used in

miniaturisation – increasing the use of

R&D laboratories in applications such as

if a new synthesised drug will be of therapeutic benefit. •

DG Lab Services – www.dglabservices.com

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18

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| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

08-08-18 16:56

QUALITY CONTROL

A hasty developer’s guide to stability testing Speeding up the development process to get products on shelf faster has resulted in many brands not wanting to spend time on stability testing. But is it acceptable to use accelerated testing to determine a product’s longevity in real time?

Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry

I

t’s tempting to want to introduce a product to market without the necessary stability testing, yet it’s not worth the risk in the long run.

While technology and innovative testing methods have reduced the time needed to test a product, stability testing remains time

consuming. According to Robyn Brown of Stability Testing Services, a division of Botanichem, many developers still skip stability testing because they perceive it as a waste of time.

‘Although three months seems like a long time, a 12 week (or three month) test is considered “accelerated” testing. It equates to the full 24 month shelf life and is enough to give a good indication

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of stability,’ explains Brown. ‘Therefore, accelerated testing is worthwhile for peace of mind that your product is going to retain its intended physical and chemical quality for the duration of its intended shelf life.’

What are the options?

There are other options, which do not require extended testing periods and should be carried out routinely during the development phase, to get an idea of whether a product is likely to be stable for 12 weeks. However, these options cannot replace the full 12 week test.

For example, the 50° Celsius temperature test, which takes just

BRAVO

Handheld Raman Spectrometer www.bruker.com/bravo

two weeks, is a good way to evaluate whether a formulation is likely to be stable at 40° Celsius for the full 12 weeks. If it doesn’t withstand exposure to the high 50° Celsius temperature for two weeks then it is not likely to last 12 weeks at 40° Celsius, which is the minimum you want from a product.

It is also imperative a formulation is not changed or adjusted once stability testing is complete. If so, the stability test results on the initial formulation will become invalid. Even the smallest change such as fragrance, colour or preservative, could change the long term stability of a product. Formulators should also bear in mind that one

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stability test does not cover every batch of a particular product.

Best practice for your brand ‘A stability test is only valid for the production batch size and equipment used, so an initial test would not be valid when scaling up production. Equipment mixes differently when different volumes are considered, which can lead to a loss of stability,’ Brown explains.

Best practice is to ensure brand owners and manufacturers plan and budget for at least some stability testing. Simply skipping this vital step of product development can cost more as result of product

Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.

Contact us for more details www.bruker.com/optics

failure, recall and damage to your brand’s reputation. •

Innovation with Integrity

FTIR/FT-NIR/Raman

Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

19

AEROSOLS

Celebrating successful

business partnerships

On 26 September, Puregas hosted its awards evening at Fine Living by David Muirhead, in Parkmore, Johannesburg. The award-winning Doctor Riaad Moosa had guests in stitches during the event with his hilarious antics and excellent stand up comedy.

F

or many years, the Puregas Awards

According to Mitchell, it is hoped

have honoured customers for

that DoL will benchmark the European

their achievements in safety,

approach when making the changes

compliance and business

to the regulations. It is also hoped there

excellence. This year, Puregas celebrated

will be specific threshold quantities for

its long term partners, which have

hazardous chemicals, different levels of

contributed to the success of the

MHIs with different thresholds, different

company since it was established in 1971.

requirements for each level of an MHI,

Partners from the past 25 and 40 years

more focus on the management of

were honoured by Puregas chairman,

MHIs, a standardised approach to the

Royden Vice.

risk assessment procedure and for more

The company also used the event

Riaad Moosa

to highlight forthcoming regulatory changes regarding major hazard installations (MHIs). The new draft regulations on MHIs, published last year by the Department of Labour (DoL), are intended to tighten compliance within MHI workplaces while protecting the public against major incidents.

A MHI refers to installations where any substance is produced, processed, used, handled or stored in such form and quantity that it has the potential to cause a major incident or an occurrence of catastrophic proportions, resulting from the use of plant and machinery, or from activities at a workplace.

According to DoL, MHIs are found mostly in petrochemical works or facilities and refineries, chemical works and production plants, at compressed air manufacturers or users such as liquefied petroleum gas, nitrogen gas, medical oxygen, hydrogen gas and at chemical stores and distribution centres.

Expert advice Debra Mitchell from ISHECON was invited to speak at the Puregas Awards, to bring the industry up to speed on why the regulations are set to change. The main reasons are: • classification of a site as an MHI

is unclear

• AIA’s produce vastly different types of risk assessment • notification procedures leave the decision making vague • emergency planning is often inadequate.

20

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

THE PUREGAS 25-YEAR CLUB • ARAN ADDITIVES • MPACT • INDIGO COSMETICS • RICHARD HALLAM • CLARKE COLOURS • REVLON

• RB, FORMERLY RECKITT BENCKISER • UNILEVER • ROLFE LABORATORIES • DABUR, FORMERLY CTL • PEGGY VAN MANEN • SMP

AEROSOLS

Debra Mitchell

THE PUREGAS 40-YEAR CLUB • •

• •

NORMAN SANAN SC JOHNSON, FORMERLY JOHNSON WAX TIGER BRANDS, INITIALLY ROBERTSONS ORYX ENERGIES, FORMERLY BP GAS

guidance to be provided on

of high quality speciality gases, gas

while protecting the environment in

emergency plans.

equipment, CO2, ammonia and LPG.

everything it does. The company’s efforts

Its focus is on ensuring quality and

have earned it the ISO 9001:2015 quality

Africa’s leading suppliers of purified and

customer service and it is committed to

blended hydrocarbon gas propellants and

offering its customers top level service in all

foam blowing products. The company is

areas of its business. Puregas is passionate

also recognised as an emerging supplier

about the safety of its staff and customers,

certification since 1996. •

Puregas – www.puregas.co.za

Working together to create

Pure Excellence T 011 903 9760 • F 011 903 9766

Business with Integrity Committed to Safety & Quality

Puregas is recognised as one of southern

www.puregas.co.za • info@puregas.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

21

AEROSOLS

Quality, service and innovation in aerosol dispensing For the first time in the history of the South African aerosols industry, filling statistics have declined. Yet Precision Valve South Africa remains optimistic. The company was recently awarded a major project by a multinational and is set to benefit from the ONCAP acquisition. By Abby Vorster

I

n August, ONCAP announced its

are excited to partner with Precision’s

acquisition of Precision Global

management team to accelerate the

(Precision), a leading international

company’s growth both organically and

manufacturer of dispensing solutions.

through acquisitions for years to come.’

These include more than 12 000 SKUs,

CEO of Precision, Mario Barbero

which are sold into the personal care,

adds: ‘ONCAP’s strong investment

household, pharmaceutical, food and

track record and extensive experience

beverage, and industrial end markets,

in the packaging industry makes it

‘Precision serves a growing market

an ideal partner for us. Together we’ll

with high quality, reliable and innovative

continue to invest in our business with

products that are critical to its customers

an ongoing focus to be the best in class

and end users,’ says Ryan Mashinter,

global supplier of quality, service and

a managing director at ONCAP. ‘We

innovation in all regions.’

A WORLD LEADER PRECISION GLOBAL invented the modern aerosol valve in 1949. Today it is the world’s largest supplier of valves selling more than four billion annually. It also produces and sells two billion actuators on an annual basis.

The company’s portfolio includes aerosol valves, actuators, pumps, caps and related aerosol accessories, custom closures and other specialty dispensing solutions.

Crest Chemicals

Your Trusted Advisor PG USP applications Aerosols Shaving Products Haircare Skincare Oral-care Pharmaceutical Cosmetic 2 year shelf life Inherent Antimicrobial properties Contact us: Johannesburg (011)254 3300, Cape Town (021)534 3140, Durban (031)9025324, East London (043) 726 8713 and Port Elizabeth (041)453 1981

BETTER TOGETHER 22

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

AEROSOLS

Our valve assembly operations are crucial to the future of the global business

packaging and injection moulding, and he is on the executive committee of the Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa.

Shared expertise and best practices By introducing centres of excellence global manufacturing companies can improve their regional and international competitiveness. They also provide for a more formalised structure to harness

Headquartered in South Carolina,

people and/or assets with expertise

USA, Precision employs more than

in a specific process or product while

1 500 people across 18 sites located in

focusing on developing and sharing

15 countries, including South Africa.

best practices.

Precision Valve South Africa (PVSA),

To better serve a more globalised

based in Rosslyn, Pretoria, is a key

market, PVSA is focusing on improving

contributor to the

its supply chain expertise by reducing

global business. Robin

complexities within

Rigney, who joined the

the business.

‘In preparation to serve

company as managing

the market on an ongoing

director in November 2017, comments: ‘PVSA’s

basis, PVSA is smartening

moulding of spray

up its supply chain

through domes – both

management by introducing

one part and multiple

forecasting/planning IT

component – as well

systems to streamline the

as our valve assembly

Robin Rigney

business. Because we supply

operations are crucial

a safety critical product,

to the future of the

we need to leverage our

global business. Precision Global is in the

technical expertise off a

phase of identifying centres of excellence

global base in order to remain customer

for component manufacturing and South

centric,’ Rigney adds. ‘Precision has

Africa remains an important part of

the largest global footprint of all valve

this network.’

manufacturers in the world which

Rigney has over 30 years’ experience in the packaging industry and has several innovative projects under his belt. His extensive expertise ranges from aerosols and closures to plastic

Precision Valve SA (PTY) Ltd phone: +27 12 541 3340 email: teresa.pereira@precisionglobal.com

puts us in a good position to offer local solutions.’ •

Precision Valve South Africa – www.precisionglobal.com

Valve components and actuator products designed and produced by Precision Global

www.precisionglobal.com

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

23

INDUSTRY TALK

Transforming the women

of tomorrow, today

The TechnoGirl programme opens doors to opportunities in science and technology. Demonstrating leadership in the chemical sector, IMCD South Africa is involved in the job shadowing component, which is perceived as the most important opportunity offered by the programme. By Abby Vorster

In-programme learners, Kefilwe Moloi and Basetsana Mogagabe with IMCD South Africa’s customer solutions manager, Ana Da Costa

A

lthough notable strides have been made in the field

of gender equality in South Africa, according to Unicef, women remain at a disadvantage when entering careers in science,

In-programme learners Katlego Tsatsi and Promise Mamome with IMCD South Africa’s applications technologist, Gladys Syebele

DID YOU KNOW?

to mentoring four girls in

In 2010, Unicef surveyed girls who had gone through the programme. It found 94 percent of them had a better understanding of the working world and the skills required to be successful in STEM careers.

technology, engineering and mathematics (STEM).

partnership with the

Caroline Cathcart of Unicef Canada, the Department of Women’s Sylvia Stevens-Maziya and Linton Carter of Unicef Canada

It employs more women than men in its South African office and has helped

TechnoGirl programme.

one of its female employees establish a

By contributing to

sustainable car wash business. In Ghana,

minimising skills

through the Global Shea Alliance, IMCD

shortages with regard

buys shea butter kernels from rural women

to STEM, we can

which are exported to Holland to produce

increase the potential pool of skilled individuals

who could potentially be employed by IMCD.’ The emphasis

shea butter. IMCD Benelux is a member of the Global Shea Alliance, which trained 70 800 shea collectors and processors in 2017 and facilitated direct sales that

To address the deficit, Unicef, in

is on workplace exposure in the job

increased the income of rural African

partnership with the South African

shadowing component, so the girls

women by 46 percent.

National Department of Basic Education,

receive one on one interactions with

established the TechnoGirl mentorship

various professionals within the company.

programme in 2005. So far, it has

A day to celebrate IMCD South Africa has been nominated as

Trust and corporate partners, like

IMCD South Africa is a strong believer in education

IMCD South Africa. The speciality

This includes valuable time in both IMCD’s

and alumni to showcase its involvement in

chemicals distributor is involved in the job

food and personal care laboratories, soft

the programme.

shadowing component of the TechnoGirl

skills training, visits to third parties such

programme. This is implemented on a

as manufacturers and logistics providers,

the four in-programme learners being

structured and systematic basis over a

guidance on CV preparation and mock

mentored at the company displayed their

three-year period. Select Grade 9 girls

interviews. For promising students, there

newly acquired skills by formulating a hair

are placed at a host organisation like

is also a possibility of being awarded a

care product in the personal care lab and

IMCD South Africa, where they attend job

bursary for their tertiary studies.

ice cream in the food lab.

benefitted over 9 000 girls from rural and urban disadvantaged communities who show academic promise. This is thanks to support from the National Department of Women, the State Information Technology Agency (SITA), the TechnoGirl

shadowing sessions on an annual basis

IMCD South Africa is a strong believer

a successful job shadowing implementation site. On 23 August, the company hosted delegates from Unicef Canada and Unicef South Africa, government officials from the departments of women and education, representatives from the TechnoGirl Trust, SITA officials and TechnoGirl beneficiaries

Under the guidance of IMCD’s employees,

By supporting TechnoGirl, companies like

over three consecutive school holidays

in education. The company has created

IMCD South Africa have the opportunity to

until they pass Grade 11.

a culture of staff stimulation and training

demonstrate private sector leadership in

for the past 36 years, because Brinkmann

the country. •

Equality means business

believes ‘you can never be educated

Otto Brinkmann, MD of IMCD South

enough’. The company is also passionate

Africa, comments: ‘We have committed

about creating opportunities for women.

24

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com/worldwide

IMCD | Tel +27 11 5704260 | Fax +27 11 9740186 www.imcdgroup.com | Info@imcdsa.co.za

SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS

Daily skin protection

and detoxification

Lipochroman molecule is a powerful antioxidative ingredient based on the structure of vitamin E. Alicia Giménez, Olga Laporta, Marie Ollagnier, Eulalia González and Raquel Delgado from Lipotec Active Ingredients and Lubrizol discuss the molecule’s proven antioxidative and anti-ageing benefits.

X

enobiotics or the accumulative

Figure 1: Protein carbonylation levels

external chemical substances and reactive species have harmful effects on the skin.

Luckily skin has a system of endogenous defences, consisting of low-molecular weight antioxidants, like co-enzmye Q10 and vitamins C and E, which directly quench reactive oxygen species (ROS).¹ The small prolinerich repeat proteins (SPRRs), located in the stratum corneum, have

DID YOU KNOW?

Lipochroman molecule (INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol) is based on the γ–tocopherol vitamin E form present in vegetables and plants. It shows powerful antioxidative properties and may aid the processes of detoxification. non-treated cells.

a direct role in scavenging

Cells increased the gene

polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in the atmosphere. Upon photoactivation by

expression of antioxidative

UVA and/or visible light, it increases the

systems are also responsible for the

elements, SPRR proteins and SOD and

generation of reactive species that can

removal of ROS and xenobiotics.

GPX enzymes. Genes related to GSH

induce DNA damage.

Superoxide dismutase (SOD) catalyses

synthesis and recycling were also

the conversion of superoxide anion

induced. Once GSH has been oxidised

incubated for two hours at 37°C with

to hydrogen peroxide, which can

by free radicals, it is regenerated

30µg/mL Lipochroman molecule in four

be further detoxified by glutathione

by glutathione reductase (GSR).

micrometres of pyrene. The cells were

(GSH) peroxidase (GPX).³ The cellular

Cells treated with the Lipochroman

irradiated with UVA/visible light (320

detoxification of xenobiotics generally

molecule produced an upregulation

to 800nm at 45KJ/m²), for 69 seconds

consists of three phases.

of genes common in all phases of

at four degrees Celsius. DNA breaks

xenobiotics metabolism.

induced by photoactivated pyrene were

ROS.² Enzymatic detoxification

Neutralise and detox

Human normal keratinocytes were

analysed using the alkaline comet assay.

The antioxidative power (AP) of

Inhibit and protect

Lipochroman molecule was assessed

In oxidative and carbonyl stress, there

by 99.3 percent, providing significant

using electron spin resonance

is an increase in adducts and cross-

protection against the genotoxic effects

spectroscopy and the AP method. The

links formed on proteins due to the

of pyrene.

reactivity and AP parameters are typical

RCS reaction. This results in protein

values of each antioxidant.

carbonylation, which contributes to

Antioxidant booster

tissue dysfunction.

A clinical test was performed on 20 female

The antioxidative properties of Lipochroman molecule were distinctly

Human dermal fibroblasts were

The molecule reduced DNA damage

volunteers aged between 33 and 57, who

higher when compared to antioxidative

treated Lipochroman molecule for

applied a cream containing 0.05 percent

agents, such as vitamin E, grape seed

24 hours and irradiated with UVB

Lipochroman molecule on a randomised

extract and tea extract. After being stored

(0.52 J/cm²) for five minutes. The

half side of the face and a placebo

in a solution for 24 and 48 hours, AP

degree of protein carbonylation in

formulation on the other side. The skin’s

stability and the reactivity of the molecule

the cells was assessed using ELISA.

antioxidative properties and the anti-ageing

were evaluated and found to remain

While the UVB irradiation induced the

efficacy were assessed after 14 and 28 days.

stable. Gene expression modulation

formation of protein carbonyls, the

was studied using microarrays in human

Lipochroman molecule treatment

was performed in epidermal samples taken

epidermal keratinocytes treated with

reduced protein carbonyl damage

by tape stripping to test the total antioxidant

50µg/mL Lipochroman molecule for

in a statistically significant manner

capacity of the skin. This increased by 21.3

24 hours. The fold variation in gene

compared to the control (see Figure

and 36.7 percent after 14 and 28 days

expression was calculated regarding the

1). Pyrene is one of the most abundant

respectively (***p<0.001.)

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| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

A ferric reducing antioxidant power assay

SKIN CARE Using a cutometer, skin elasticity was measured on the cheek

Figure 2: Changes in two mechanical parameters of skin elasticity versus initial time: ***p<0.001; versus the placebo: *p<0.05 for R2 (14 days) and R5; ***p<0.001 for R2 (28 days)

and two parameters were evaluated. First, overall elasticity (R2), which represents the skin’s ability to recover to its basal state after deformation.

Second, net elasticity (R5), which indicates the recovery after deformation due to the elastic component of the skin.

Suppleness was improved, measured both as gross elasticity and as the elastic component of the

Lipotec – www.lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

Figure 3: Reduction in the wrinkle depth parameter. Average and maximal values are shown versus initial time: ***p<0.001 and versus the placebo: *p<0.05

skin (see Figure 2). Wrinkle depth was measured in the crow’s feet area by means of a real 3D microtopography

REFERENCES:

imaging system based on fringe

1. Briganti S, Picardo M. Antioxidant activity, lipid peroxidation and skin diseases. What’s new. J Eur

projection. The depth of wrinkles

Acad Dermatol Venereol. 17(6): 663-9, 2003

decreased (see Figure 3), by an average 21.3 percent and up to 47.2 percent after 28 days of treatment.

Lipotec’s Lipochroman molecule

2. Vermeij WP1, Alia A, Backendorf C. ROS quenching potential of the epidermal cornified cell envelope. J Invest Dermatol. 131(7):1435-41, 2011.

3. Rinnerthaler M, Bischof J, Streubel MK, Trost A et al.

can be sourced in South Africa from

Oxidative stress in aging human skin. Biomolecules.

Savannah Fine Chemicals. •

21;5(2):545-89, 2015.

Provides antioxidant shelter and promotes complete detox

NEW TEST

21.3% increase in skin antioxidative capacity in 14 days.

Triple protection and detox from in & out.

Improved skin

appearance.

SAVANNAH Fine Chemicals (Pty) Ltd Tel: +27 (11) 856 4500 E-mail: info@savannah.co.za www.lipotec.com All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates. © 2014, 2015, 2017, 2018 The Lubrizol Corporation.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

27

SKIN CARE

9 actives for

beautiful skin Ashland has made great advances in skin care research with its Vincience Biofunctionals portfolio of active ingredients. The portfolio offers novel and effective routes to beautiful skin and is available in South Africa from Millchem.

Actopontine • bioinspired by nature to optimise skin matrix architecture • INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) sh-Hexapeptide-2 • preservative system: sodium benzoate • recommended use level: one percent (clinically tested at one percent) Actopontine is associated with an in vitro increase in proteins critical for building and remodelling the extracellular matrix, including dermatopontin, collagen I, collagen III, laminin-V, fibronectin and alpha-3 integrin. The active has shown in vitro to enhance the proteins involved in cell shape and integrity. It is ideal for the potential enhancement of skin’s elasticity and density, giving it a youthful appearance.

Caspaline 14 • synthetic peptide to help enhance skin’s natural UV defence and fight the visible signs of ageing.

ATPeptide IS • an energy boosting peptide specially designed to

• INCI: Water (and) Propanediol (and) Hexapeptide-42

help revitalise ageing skin and help smooth the

• preservative system: sodium benzoate

appearance of cellulite prone skin

• Recommended use level: 0.5 to one percent

• INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Tripeptide-3

(clinically tested at 0.5 percent)

• preservative-free

Caspaline 14 helps maintain the expression of

• recommended use level: 0.5 to 1.5 percent

caspase-14 (in vitro and ex vivo) and the expression

ATPeptide IS supports the maintenance of ATP levels

of filaggrin (a precursor of NMF) (ex vivo). It also helps

(in vitro), increases the levels of intracellular calcium

limit skin damage from UV (ex vivo and in vivo).

(in vitro) and assists with lipolysis (in vitro).

Blumilight • premium cocoa peptide for blue light pollution protection • INCI: Water/Aqua (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract • preservative-free • recommended use level: one percent (clinically tested at one percent)

GP4G SP • aquatic energising and protective plankton nucleotides that help skin absorb environmental shock • INCI: Water (and) Artemia Extract

Phytocohesine PSP

• preservative system: phenoxyethanol, potassium

• visibly improves skin appearance and helps protect

sorbate • recommended use level: one to two percent (clinically tested at two percent)

it from environmental stress • INCI: Sodium Beta-Sitosteryl Sulfate (and) BetaSitosterol

During blue light stress, Blumilight has shown to

In vitro results show GP4G SP may absorb or may

• preservative-free

decrease reactive oxygen species (in vitro) and maintain

prevent ultraviolet, infrared and heat shocks; oxidative

• recommended use level: 0.1 to one percent

opsin photoreceptors (in vitro). It also increases in

and mitochondria stress; DNA and protein damage;

collagen I, fibrillin-1 and syndecan-4 (in vitro and

and ROS production. GP4G SP has also shown in vitro

Phytocohesine PSP helps reinforce the skin barrier,

ex vivo) and visibly improves the network of elastin

to absorb cold shocks and prevent DNA transcription

enhances keratin synthesis (in vitro), protects skin

fibres (ex vivo),

while slowing down protein translation. The active may

moisture from UV and chemical aggression and helps

skin elasticity (in vivo) and wrinkles (in vivo).

also help limit the appearance of skin ageing (in vitro).

improve hydration in normal and dry skin.

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| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

(clinically tested at one percent)

SKIN CARE

Signaline S

Telosense

• inspired by the science of cellular activation signalling and

• inspired by the science of telomeres and anti-

designed to improve and maintain youthful-looking skin • INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil (and) Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Extract

ageing • INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

• preservative-free

• preservative system: sodium benzoate

• recommended use level: 0.25 to 0.5 percent

• recommended use level: 0.5 to one percent

Signaline S optimises skin renewal, increases the intracellular

(clinically tested at one percent)

ATP level (in vitro) and intracellular calcium (in vitro), and helps

Telosense is associated with increasing an

with dermal renewal and ECM synthesis.

important element of the Telomere Sheltering Complex (in vitro) and lamin A expression in ageing cells (in vitro). It is also associated with

Vital ET • a unique biofunctional complex of tocopheryl phosphate (vitamin E derivative) designed for sensitive skin issues • INCI: Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates

reducing the accumulation of cellular ageing markers, suggesting cellular senescence is delayed and cell longevity improved (in vitro). It helps improve skin’s appearance and reduces the appearance of wrinkles.

• preservative system: phenoxyethanol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid • recommended use level: one percent Vital ET decreases the appearance of redness and clinically

Ashland – www.ashland.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

reduces the appearance of UV-induced redness. It also decreases skin’s sensitivity to harsh environments. Clinical studies have shown Vital ET reduces shaving-induced redness and discomfort in sensitive skin and reduces the appearance of redness of acne lesions.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

29

SKIN CARE

Beauty and science encapsulated for better results Delivery systems in the anti-ageing category are key to ensuring the safe use and efficacy of a product. They also provide formulators with a vehicle to overcome formulation challenges associated with lipophilic actives.

L

ong-lasting beauty well into the

drawbacks of retinol. This

senior years is a ubiquitous consumer

popular active ingredient

demand. Users of anti-ageing skin

has been combined with

care seek products that combat the

advanced technology

visible signs of ageing, such as lines, wrinkles

to produce BergaCare

and a loss of skin elasticity or moisture. There

SmartLipids Retinol – an

are plenty of effective anti-ageing actives on

innovative delivery system.

the market; retinol and coenzyme Q10 are

The technology is the result

among the most well-known examples.

of joint development efforts

Despite its popularity and proven anti-

between Berg+Schmidt

ageing efficacy, retinol is highly unstable

and the University of Berlin,

and can cause skin irritations. BergaCare

in Germany. It is also an

SmartLipids technology was developed to

ideal example of how to commercialise an

overcome these challenges. This high tech

academic invention in a consumer

active delivery system effectively brings

relevant application.

anti-ageing actives into the skin in a safe and controlled manner while providing

Technology in focus

additional benefits to the formulator.

BergaCare SmartLipids consist of tiny particles made of a complex mixture of

A powerful active

liquid oils and solid waxes, generally

Retinol is one of the cosmetics industry’s

lipids (see Figure 1).

go-to anti-ageing actives. If used in a daily

They are typically smaller than one

routine it can lead to smoother skin and

micrometre (µm), so they are also called

reduction of wrinkles.

submicron particles. The active ingredient,

Unfortunately, retinol cannot be stored for

Figure 1: The structure of a submicron lipid particle from BergaCare SmartLipids

in this case retinol, is embedded within

an extended period because it is chemically

the particles and physically protected

unstable. It can also cause reddening

from external aggressors such as oxygen

and skin irritations, which can force some

and light. The submicron particles are

consumers to stop using the product.

suspended and stabilised in water. This

There is now a solution to overcome these

way, they can simply be added to a

formulation, where they disperse in the water phase while staying in their solid particle form.

Retinol is much more stable against degradation when encapsulated in a lipid mixture. In testing, this system was compared to non-encapsulated retinol at the same concentration. After six months of storage almost 90 percent of the initial encapsulated retinol remained intact, while the ‘free’ retinol was present at only 30 percent.

With the free retinol, more than two thirds of the active were lost to degradation while the BergaCare SmartLipids delivery system ensures the sensitive active is protected. As soon as the cosmetics product is applied to the skin, BergaCare SmartLipids form a

• Contract manufacture of bath/body/beauty/anti-ageing products • We have no brands of our own and therefore do not compete with our customers • Offer a turnkey operation from concept to launch of all products • Formulation development for local and international markets • Perform stability/micro testing for all products • Source new packaging locally and internationally • Sun protection

Tel: +27 (0)12 803 7999/+27 (0)12 803 0761/+27 (0)83 285 8830 Email: andre@serendipitytoiletries.com/ madelein@serendipitytoiletries.com | www.serendipitytoiletries.co.za

30

Serendipity.indd 1

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

2018/04/05 12:07 PM

SKIN CARE SmartLipids NatWhite, which offers a gentle brightening effect through the use

Retinol is much more stable against degradation when encapsulated in a lipid mixture

of lemongrass oil. Encapsulated UV filters are also under development. The only requirement for encapsulating actives is their solubility in lipids. For other actives that are poorly soluble in both oil and water, Berg + Schmidt offers another technological solution to enhance their effectiveness, called BergaCare SmartCrystals.

In this application, pure active crystals are reduced in size to below one micrometre.

uniform protective layer or second skin.

The retinol is then gradually released over a prolonged period, which avoids putting a one-shot concentration on

As a result, the solubility and dissolution Figure 2: Skin reddening is reduced through the use of encapsulated retinol in the form of BergaCare SmartLipids Retinol

increased while the bioavailability is enhanced. BergaCare SmartCrystals is

the skin. The potential for irritation and

applicable to many poorly soluble actives,

reddening is considerably reduced

Diversity and flexibility

(see Figure 2). The lipid component of

BergaCare SmartLipids can be tailored

the system has the ability to restore the

to customers’ needs. The specific active

natural skin barrier of stressed skin and

and the rate of release can be modified.

can further enhance the penetration of

The technology is also available with

retinol through its occlusive effect.

Coenzyme Q10 – BergaCare SmartLipids

After passing into the skin, the retinol

rate of the active ingredient is significantly

Q10. A BergaBright range has also

can deploy its powerful anti-ageing

been developed, including BergaBright

effects to the user’s full advantage.

SmartLipids Glabridin and BergaBright

such as rutin, hesperidin, and ascorbyl palmitate. Berg+Schmidt’s advanced delivery systems are available in South Africa from Afrisil. •

Afrisil – karin@afrisil.com Berg+Schmidt – www.berg-schmidt.de/en

Sun Care Solvents and Emollients Finsolv® esters provide effective solvation of organic UV filters and impart a light, non-greasy feel to the skin. The range also includes Sunsolv® BOS, a solvent, emollient and dispersant for inorganic filters that helps photostablize avobenzone.

Activemol is a range of non-greasy, hydrophobic aliphatic esters that deliver a unique, dry emolliency to skin, a distinct after-feel and silky texture to formulations.

Dispersants Dispersun DSP dispersants stabilize dispersions of inorganic sunscreens; spread pigments evenly, optimize UV absorption for high SPF protection, reduce whitening and improve texture.

Dispersions Our Dispersun dispersions of inorganic sunscreen actives are easy to use in high SPF sun care formulations.

Skin Care Additives These are a family of unique, natural extracts that defend against UV induced skin damage and gently soothe the skin.

Shonna Twynham | Tel: 27 (0)11 922 1830 | Mobile: +27(0)79 372 0761 | Fax: +27(0) 11 976 1706 Email: Shonna.Twynham@chemsystems.co.za | www.chemsystems.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

31

SKIN CARE

Evonik creates a care

solutions powerhouse By merging its personal care and household care business lines, together with the associated oleochemistry platform, Evonik has created a new Care Solutions unit.

E

Strengthened growth agenda

lead to more efficient processes, a leaner

strategy for the health and care growth engine.

The four global product lines of

management. As a result, Evonik will

Dr Hans-Josef Ritzert,

cosmetic solutions, active ingredients,

be ending its involvement in the UK-

vonik is implementing its

management board member of the nutrition and care segment, comments: ‘The new business line care solutions will strengthen the growth agenda of our nutrition and care segment.

The new unit, which has roughly 1 250 employees and combined sales of

cleaning solutions and technical

DID YOU KNOW?

applications will benefit from the clearer focus

Evonik’s nutrition and care segment contributes to fulfilling basic human needs. In 2017, the segment employed about 8 250 people and generated sales of around €4.5 billion.

approximately €900 million,

on specialty products and their significant differences. Dedicated

organisation and improved interface

based Milton Keynes site in 2019 and in Granollers, Spain in 2020. In addition, the care solutions business line will be withdrawing from Hanau and Schlüchtern sites in Germany.

To best serve customers throughout the

application technology

world, care solutions will adopt a global

groups will ensure the

focus. Three of the five product lines will

industrial focus is retained.

The fifth product line, base

ingredients, will bundle products

be managed from the US, while future production at care solutions will be carried out at the following

will be launched on 1 January 2019

together where value and cost are

international sites:

under the leadership of

crucial. Together the five product lines

• Essen, Duisburg and Steinau

Dr Tammo Boinowitz.’

will serve the following markets:

The combined business line

• hair and skin care

in Germany • Mapleton, Janesville/

ensures common expertise,

• sun care

resources, technologies and raw

• bath and shower

materials sit together under one roof.

• colour cosmetics

• Americana, in Brazil

‘In the past we’ve worked for our

• age defying

• Shanghai, in China

customers in parallel across these

• fabric care

• Bekasi Timur, in Indonesia. •

complementary business lines –

• deodorants

the reorganisation means our

• liquid laundry detergents

customers can expect more

• industrial and institutional cleaning.

Milton, Reserve and Hopewell in the US

innovative products, leaner processes and much closer customer

A global focus

relationships,’ says Boinowitz, the

The reorganisation will allow Evonik

designated head of care solutions.

to realise increased synergies that

Evonik – www.evonik.com

TEGO® Pep 4-Comfort

Soothing relief for sensitive skin Hello innovation, goodbye irritation!

Feel the sense of harmony with our new tetrapeptide specially designed to relief sensitive skin • Say goodbye to hyperactive skin and skin discomfort • Soothe major skin sensitivity syndromes • Comfort skin redness and irritations Evonik Africa (Pty) Ltd IBG Business Park, Midrand, South Africa t +27 11 697 0724 | www.evonik.com

32

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

SKIN CARE

Guard skin from the negative effects of screen time

Gattefossé has developed an organic, certified active proven to protect skin cells from the effects of artificial visible light emitted from screens, tablets and laptops.

E

lectronic devices emit artificial visible light (AVL)

Figure 1: Maintenance of cell spreading under light exposure

constantly. Daily exposure to AVL, even if the amount of energy emitted is weak, negatively affects the skin yet the impact is far less understood than the effects of

screen exposure on sleep quality.¹ For the first time, screenemitted AVL has been characterised and unique equipment accurately recreating the characteristic AVL emitted by screens has been developed by Gattefossé.² It has been used to expose normal human fibroblasts in standardised in vitro test conditions. The studies demonstrated AVL acts as an additional environmental aggressor, resulting in increased cellular fatigue. It also disrupts the morphology and behaviour of the fibroblasts. AVL strongly influences the profile of gene expression in fibroblasts.

More than eight percent (2 984 genes out of 35 000) of the whole genome have a deregulated expression after exposure to AVL. Molecular pathways related to mitochondria and cell skeleton (cytoskeleton) are particularly affected. The exposure to screen light damages the energetic machinery of the cells.

The mitochondrial network is also altered.

communication properties of fibroblasts are no longer affected by screen light exposure and cellular activity is maintained. In the light stress condition, cells treated with the active maintain good spreading (see Figure 1), confirming the fully protective effect against light stress.

Fibroblasts also maintain their ability to stretch under AVL exposure, indicating an efficient actin cytoskeleton. •

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Gattefossé – www.gattefosse.com

AVL also weakens the mobility, communication and proliferative capacities of fibroblasts. Under stress, the cytoskeleton fibres are disorganised leading to reduced cell spreading and loss of cell contractility. Exhausted and isolated, they are less able to produce key matrix components and are less functional to interact with their environment, hindering the proper matrix remodelling process. As a result, skin vitality is reduced.

A mechanism for protection EnergiNius from Gattefosse, available in South Africa from Carst & Walker, was developed to protect skin cells from AVL. Its efficacy has been demonstrated at both genomic

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and cellular levels. It fights against the decrease of gene expression related to mitochondria and actin cytoskeleton in fibroblasts, protecting the transcriptome of dermal fibroblasts and maintaining dermis health.

It preserves the mitochondrial network from fragmentation allowing full normalisation of ATP production.

Under light stress, the mitochondrial network of cells is

Carst & Walker is the proud supplier for Gattefosse in South Africa

highly fragmented and only small bright dots are detected.

In contrast, thin mitochondrial filaments are detected when treated with EnergiNius, providing evidence of the ingredient’s protective benefits.

ATP production is

For more information contact Tammy Smith Tammy.Smith@carst.co.za at 021-506-4567 or 073-200-6980

significantly higher in fibroblasts treated with the active than in untreated cells when exposed to AVL. The mobility and

People make our name

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

33

SKIN CARE

A specialist solution for sensitive African skin

French pharmacy brand, Mixa was launched in South Africa and key African markets in March. These body care products promise to improve the quality of sensitive skin.

By Abby Vorster

M

ixa was first developed

universe. We also worked over a period of

are allergic reactions (26 percent and

in 1924 in France by a

a year with a network of five dermatologists

predominant in Nigeria), irritation (25

pharmacist, Dr Roger who

across Africa to assess the Mixa Restoring

percent), itching (24 percent) and sun

was passionate about mixing

Lotion with their patients.’

burn (22 percent and predominant in

ingredients to create a specialist ointment

South Africa). ‘There were significant visual

for severely dry, rough hands. He used

Key consumer insights

improvements in skin’s integrity using the

a special mixing technique to blend the

Dr Evanson Kamuri, chairman of the

Mixa product,’ comments Dr Kamuri.

cream which inspired the brand’s name

Dermatologist Association of Kenya,

– Mixa.

was one of the dermatologists involved

in the consumer use tests:

in the consumer assessments. He

• relief was evident by day seven

shared key study insights at the Loreal

• 30 to 100 percent of the volunteers

Owned and distributed by L’Oréal, Mixa is based on well-known pharmacopeia

Skin Symposium, which

ingredients.

Alice Laurent, L’Oréal’s general manager of research and

Al ice La urent

The following overall results were evident

experienced significant relief of

formed part of the African

skin dryness

Society of Dermatology

• desquamation or skin peeling was

innovation (R&I), comments: ‘The

and Venereology congress

specific formulation requirements

programme that took

the volunteers

were decided to meet the needs

place in Durban, KwaZulu-

• in Senegal, volunteers noted the high

of the most sensitive skins with

Natal, from 30 August to 1

a derm-inspired brand that is

September.

accessible. We rely on well-known

Sunlight and soap were

improved among 60 percent of

level of cold sensitivity was relieved

by Mixa.

have a body care brand on the African

in Nigeria and 30 percent of women in

market. ‘With issues linked to counterfeit

South Africa have sensitive skin on their

products in Africa, there is a great need

bodies while 67 percent in Ivory Coast, 47

for an accessible derm-inspired body care

percent in Kenya, 55 percent in Nigeria

Our ultimate goal is to offer the best solution for African consumers

brand and Mixa presented the perfect fit,’

and 53 percent of women in South Africa

Initially the Mixa body care products

says Laurent. ‘We did a whole set of tests on

experience sensitive skin on their faces.

were fully imported, but L’Oréal has

ingredients that are very safe with simple formulas to comfort, soothe and improve sensitive skins.’

Before introducing Mixa, L’Oréal didn’t

pinpointed as primary aggressors of sensitive skin. A total of 46 percent of women in Ivory Coast, 16 percent in Kenya, 41 percent

the formulas we’d selected to make sure

The most typical symptoms according

the sensorial properties were in the right

to the consumers evaluated in the study,

34

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

implemented a strategy to manufacture certain products in Africa. ‘We have

SKIN CARE

STAR INGREDIENTS THAT CARE FOR SENSITIVE SKIN A KEY INGREDIENT in the soothing body lotion, Allantoin has been discovered in a variety of plants such as wheat germ, young sycamore leaves, comfrey roots and bark of horse chestnut. The therapeutic virtues of comfrey roots were already known at the end of the 16th century, but it was not until the 19th and 20th centuries that allantoin was isolated, analysed and its beneficial properties of regeneration and reparation attributed. Thanks to its repairing, regenerating, moisturising and soothing properties, Allantoin is perfectly suitable for sensitive skin care.

The multipurpose Cica Repair Balm is enriched with Panthenol (vitamin B5), which is well known for its soothing and repairing properties. Dexpanthenol or Pro-vitamin B5 is a precursor of Panthenol commonly used in cosmetics. Dexpanthenol acts on the skin as a moisturiser thanks to its good capacity to capture water, contributing to maintaining skin softness. Some studies have revealed regenerative properties of Dexpanthenol

started producing specific Mixa formulas for the southern African market at our Midrand plant.

Products for east Africa will be manufactured at our plant in Kenya and in Ivory Coast for the west African market. Our ultimate goal is to offer the best solution for African consumers, should it be from our international portfolio or specifically developed. L’Oréal R&I has a small skin care team in Kenya formulating for our Kenyan brands. We will increase this team to produce relevant innovations in the domain of body care and will bring some of the development activity into our R&I centre in South Africa,’ Laurent concludes. •

and its ability to reduce transepidermal water loss, helping maintain the skin’s protective barrier function.

COSMETIC SOLUTIONS

SKINCARE / PERSONAL CARE / FRAGRANCE / COSMETICS

YOUR BRAND + OUR COSMETIC PRIVATE LABEL MANUFACTURING EXPERTISE = YOUR MARKET INNOVATION

Call us for your cosmetic needs… from formulations & cosmetic packaging to third party manufacturing EMAIL: info@sdkagencies.com OFFICE: +27 11 314 0020 I FAX: +27 11 314 3499

WE BRING YOUR BRANDED COSMETIC IDEAS TO LIFE P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

35

SKIN CARE

An honest approach to natural

and organic ingredients

House of Naturals from DSM is a broad portfolio of natural, organic and sustainable ingredients with clear information on natural certifications. This new portfolio reflects the company’s commitment to transparency in the natural and organic category.

D

SM, represented in South

European body, FEBEA to compile

Africa by Chempure,

a report that will offer new insights

has evaluated its entire

into the technical aspects of

personal care range of

this standard.’

products according to the globally

Although the ISO standard permits

recognised Cosmos and Natrue

materials with 50 percent natural

certifications and the newer ISO 16128 standard on definitions for natural ingredients. It then developed a new pictogram system for its broad naturals portfolio based on key information from

DID YOU KNOW?

content in the active compound, DSM has introduced stricter

Euromonitor’s Beauty Survey 2017 reveals around 40 percent of consumers favour ‘natural or botanical ingredients’ over ‘lower price’ products.

the evaluation.

The result is an easy to navigate guide that provides customers with clarity on the degree of natural

requirements for its House

Green credentials are a priority in the facial skin care category misleading claims and want reliable and

of Naturals portfolio. The

transparent labelling information to aid

company stipulates a

their decision making. With technology

natural origin score of

providing instant access to information

60 percent or more for

beyond a product’s label, consumer

ingredients in the portfolio.

This applies to ingredients

with an active part of natural origin and that comply with green chemistry principles.

demand for more transparency on green claims, ingredients and processes will continue to rise.

More than 45 percent of the ingredients in DSM’s House of Naturals portfolio are of natural origin. These ingredients are

origin of the different ingredients and

certified at various levels and originate from

their production processes. It also

More than a trend

includes guidance on certifications

Natural ingredients and green

a wide range of raw materials including

and regulations for natural products.

credentials are a priority in the facial

edible vegetables, herbs, oils, marine/

‘DSM is committed to providing

skin care category. According to

algae resources, silk and milk, yeast/

transparent information about its

a Mintel study, half of consumers

fermentation and minerals. The portfolio

ingredients,’ comments Rishabh

based in the UK who purchased

includes more than 55 ingredients of

Pande, VP of marketing and

beauty products in the last year

natural origin and in excess of 70 percent of

innovation: personal care and

sought products formulated with

skin care actives with natural origin content

aroma at DSM. ‘We welcome the

natural ingredients.

above 90 percent. •

clarity the new ISO 16128 standard

DSM’s own social media influencers

that provides but believe it could go

study reveals consumers expect

even further. We have joined forces

ethical and sustainable practices

with industry representatives and the

from manufacturers, they are wary of

36

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

Chempure – www.chempure.co.za DSM House of Naturals – bit.ly/2xLjr7A

SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING

A new biological pathway to activate lipolysis Recent studies show the importance of new signalling pathways in fat mobilisation. These pathways involve innovative types of receptors, free fatty acid receptors or FFARs, deorphanised during research on diabetes and obesity.1

Figure 1: A diagrammatic representation of the mode of action of Slim EC3

Active

all plant oils. Camellia Oil also promotes the

molecules

absorption of other active ingredients.

were designed

New slimming complex

combining

Activation of the FFAR synergetic pathway

carnitine and

leads to HSL phosphorylation through other

free fatty acids

protein kinases, the protein kinase C (PKC),

from Camellia

as well as the MAP kinase (also known as

oleifera seed oil

ERK1/2). However, the full pathway has

to form Camellia Oil esters

not been clearly described as yet and

associated with Esculin in a complex. The

further investigation is necessary to properly

purpose of the Slim EC3 complex is to:

characterise it.

• activate the FFAR4 pathway to increase

4

the lipolysis rate

Research also highlighted that PKA and PKC can act synergistically to boost lipolysis

in adipocytes

n the case of adipocytes, the most

activity in adipocytes.5 Several studies have

• synergise the slimming activity

relevant FFAR is FFAR4, a transmembrane

been performed on both humans and

of caffeine

receptor coupled with the G protein

mice (KO), lacking functional FFAR4. They

• act at all levels of fat mobilisation,

also known as GPR120. This receptor

indicate a dysfunction of the FFAR4 receptor

I

is expressed in various tissues including

always leads to obesity, making it a key

adipose tissue and adipocytes. Long chain

target for fat storage regulation.6

saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, C1822, can activate it.² Based on these findings, Camellia

Slim EC3, the new active complex from Inabata distributed in South Africa

by Brenntag, will stimulate the FFAR4

including the elimination of free fatty acids. •

Brenntag South Africa – www.brenntag.com/south-africa Inabata – www.inabata.co.jp

Oil, composed of more than 80 percent

pathway to synergise the caffeine effect

oleic acid, monounsaturated omega-9

and promote the elimination of fat

REFERENCES:

fatty acid (C18), appears to be a good

storage from adipocytes (see Figure 1).

1. Carmen et al., 2006; Vangaveti et al., 2010;

candidate for stimulating the new

Pharmasynthese, the research lab of

pathway. The oil is cold pressed from the

Inabata, used this medical discovery to

seeds of the flowering Camellia tree.³ It is

develop Slim EC3. The slimming complex

4. Jaworski et al., 2006

light, absorbs quickly into the skin and is

acts on all the different mechanisms

5. Fricke et al., 2004

considered the most penetrative of

involved in fat reserve mobilisation.

6. Ichimura et al., 2012

Brenntag South Africa (Pty) Ltd 11 Mansell Road Killarney Gardens Cape Town, 7441 Cape Town +27 (0) 21 020 1800 Johannesburg +27 (0) 10 020 9100 info@brenntag.co.za www.brenntag.com/south-africa

Ichimura et al., 2014; Moran et al., 2016 2. Ichimura et al., 2009; Gotoh et al., 2007 3. Wakefield 2014

GLOBAL MARKET LEADER IN CHEMICAL DISTRIBUTION

Brenntag South Africa

PERSONAL CARE | PHARMACEUTICAL

| NUTRACEUTICAL | FOOD | BEVERAGE

Acidulants | Actives | Alcohols | Alkalies | Anti-Caking Agents | Antimicrobials | Antioxidants | Butters Chelating Agents | Conditioning Agents | Dyes and Pigments | Emollients | Emulsifiers | Essential Oils Exfolliants | Extracts | Fatty Acids | Flavor and Fragrance | Humectants | Opacifiers | P H Re g u l a to r s | Salts and Peroxygen Liquids | Seeds and Meals Preservatives | Phospates | Rheology Modifiers Surfactants | Sweeteners | Thickeners | UV Filters | Vitamins | Waxes | White Oils | and Others.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

37

SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING

The growing trend of therapeutic body care

The body care market was once solely populated by fragranced creams and lotions with basic moisturising functionality. Now, with the therapeutic body care category on the rise, anti-ageing skin care benefits have become commonplace. By John Knowlton

B

ody care is big business – the

The option of taking a holistic approach

has come under a degree of scrutiny

global market value of US$16.2

to tantalise all the senses adds huge

regarding safety in use.

billion recorded in 2016 is

value to both a treatment and a product

Detoxification is another area of

expected to reach US$21.1

itself. Texture and format are also crucial,

therapeutic body care that’s gaining

billion by the year 2021, according to

with an endless selection of cream, lotion,

increased consumer interest. This could

Euromonitor International.

oil, mask and even spray formats now

be due to the increasing levels of pollution

There are many factors driving this

available, as well as food-inspired textures

to which they are exposed. Clays such

metamorphosis, such as consumers’

like marshmallow, whipped cream, soufflé

as bentonite, kaolin and montmorillonite

ever-increasing awareness of health

and meringue.

have been used successfully in

and self-image and increased

detoxifying body care formulations. Not

participation in recreational sports

Detox and target dimples

only do these materials absorb excess oils

and active lifestyles. The marketplace

The main difference between therapeutic

and unwanted toxins from the skin, they

has capitalised on these trends,

body care and mainstream products

also contain high levels of minerals and

offering firming and tightening, contour

is formulation design or the active

other beneficial nutrients that enhance

improvement, detoxification, cellulite

ingredients used. Historically, ingredients

skin’s condition after use.

reduction and even weight loss benefits

such as caffeine, green tea, clays and

in body care products. Yet, there are

vitamin C derivatives have been used

from natural sources, they are ideal for

strict regulations in most parts of the

to confer anti-cellulite, anti-ageing,

inclusion into product ranges positioned

world which prevent the use of weight

detoxification and skin brightening

against the popular ‘natural’ and

loss claims.

benefits respectively. Often these

‘organic’ marketing propositions.

The sensory profile of therapeutic body care products is an important consideration in their development and

Given that all these clays are derived

materials are used in combination to take advantage of synergies.

Cellulite treatment is a rapidly growing

Scrubs make sense When it comes to the sensory experience,

marketing. Consumers want experiences

market that has demonstrated its

body exfoliators deliver enormous benefits

they can feel, driving the increased use of

presence to an even greater degree with

on the skin. Their abrasivity can be tailored

formulation ingredients that either cool or

the rise in obesity. Caffeine remains a

by altering the shape, size and hardness of

warm the skin when a product is applied,

popular choice for cellulite treatments. It

the abrasive particles, to give exactly the

not to mention the stimulation provided

has been shown to have vasoconstricting

right experience.

by exfoliating scrubs.

properties, as well as acting as a diuretic

Many therapeutic body care products are used in salon and spa environments.

Whilst traditional scrub materials such as

with the ability to dehydrate fat cells,

walnut powder, sea salt, sugar and cellulose

thereby improving the surface contours

derivatives still enjoy frequent use, there are

of the skin. Caffeine is a powerful

hundreds of scrub particles on the market.

antioxidant with the ability to soothe

These are derived from shells, fruit kernels,

inflammation and help alleviate the

minerals, seeds, herbs, spices, flowers and

visible signs of free-radical damage.

Regulatory requirements for all cellulite treatments prohibit any claims stating or implying slimming or weight loss and instructions for use typically mandate that products should be used in conjunction with a healthy lifestyle. Other classic cellulite

leaves, enabling an infinite number of consumer experiences to be created in the formulation of the final product.

The wide range of scrub particles also allows the choice of material to be aligned with the marketing proposition – think a range of high-end therapeutic body care products, LSM 8 to 10, containing garnet, pearl and quartz exfoliating particles!

treatment ingredients include L-carnitine and aminophylline, although the latter

38

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

High tech actives The biggest advancement in therapeutic body care is the availability of high tech

SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING active ingredients, many

condition. A proprietary blend of

application and absorption. Solving this

of them derived from

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

dilemma will likely be a recipe

natural sources. They

and two peptide derivatives claim to

for success in the body care market

are backed by scientific

reduce the appearance of existing

of the future.

studies to demonstrate firming, tightening, smoothing, detoxifying, cellulite reduction and a host of other benefits.

The biggest advancement in therapeutic body care is the availability of high tech active ingredients This new level of scientific credibility

stretch marks, whilst simultaneously

Consumer interest in natural

assisting in the prevention of new ones.

ingredients, in conjunction with the

Both benefits are clinically substantiated

demand for balancing products that

by dermatological assessments and

protect skin health, reinforce skin auto-

instrumental analyses. The mechanism of

capacity and restore skin harmony,

action is claimed to be inhibition of the

will be important trends in the future

degradation of the extracellular matrix,

development of the body care category.

coupled with the ability to regenerate

This is intimately connected to a growing

dermal components, giving skin the

interest in scientific expertise and the

integrity and elasticity it needs to recover

availability of advanced technologies

from stretch mark damage.

to address the problems consumers

The benefit of ‘contouring’ the body, despite the precarious regulatory status

perceive as important.

It seems any market trend that applies

of poorly constructed, frequently made

to facial care is rapidly finding its way

claims, is another popular area of interest.

into body care. In this context, it’s

There are many technologies available

perfectly reasonable to expect current

has allowed the marketing of high end

that claim to have body contouring

facial skin care trends such as natural

body care products, with clinically

effects, most of which are substantiated

sustainability, anti-pollution treatments

proven benefits, targeted specifically

with some form of clinical testing or

and the beneficial use of prebiotic and

at the prestige and professional skin

instrumental analysis.

probiotics, will quickly be adopted in the

care segments. One example is a

One such material, based upon

body care category. So, it looks like the

proprietary, synergistic blend of caffeine

a proprietary blend of two botanical

and two natural extracts, Globularia

extracts from the botanical

cordifolia and Zingiber zerumbet. The

species Celosia cristata and

blend is specifically targeted at soothing

Prunella vulgaris, claims short term

inflammation and reducing adipose

elimination of fat by the stimulation

tissue, which results in decongestion

of the lipolytic activity of mature

of the hypodermis. This technology

adipocytes. Its longer term benefits

is backed by a host of clinical trials

are attributed to a reduction in fat

including anti-inflammatory activity on

cell division and growth by blocking

mature human adipocytes, decongestion

transcription factors involved in the

of adipose tissue and volume reduction in

triggering and regulation of the

the thigh area.

adipocyte differentiation process.

ABOUT

Stretch marks, like cellulite, are a very real concern for many women.

Inspired by face care

Technologies are now available to

From the consumer’s perspective, one

formulate body care products with

of the main barriers to using body

claims to effectively address this

care products is the lack of time for

©Unsplash

Tel: +27 11 494 6700 | info@cjpchemicals.co.za | www. cjpchemicals.co.za

©Unsplash

wesourcebeauty.com

wesourcebeauty.com

trickle-down effect is here to stay? •

John Knowlton (C.Chem, MRSC, UK Dip Cos. Sci.) is the founder of Cosmetic Solutions, which specialises in a wide range of consultancy services to the cosmetics industry. He is a pastpresident of the South African Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1999) and was chairman of the organising committee of the IFSCC Conference that was hosted in South Africa during the same year.

ADIPOSLIM™

RHODYSTEROL™ S TG

ADIPOLESS™

SCULPTOSANE™

™ ™ S TG ADIPOSLIM RHODYSTEROL Natural Active Ingredients for Body Sculpt!

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P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

39

PHARMA FOCUS//Made In SA

Are you ready to track and trace?

Securing pharma supply chains is crucial to winning the war on counterfeit medicines. P C Review talks to Carol Cohen, operations director at USS Pactech, about serialisation systems and how they improve patient safety by enabling end to end supply chain visibility.

V

alued at US$200

departments within an organisation,

an industrial interoperability standard

billion annually, fake

so manufacturers should start

for healthcare packaging serialisation

pharmaceutical products

planning now,’ she comments. ‘The

regulations, which improves deployment

and medical devices make

first requirement is for a GTIN and GS1

efficiency and reduces the high cost

up the largest global market in

Datamatrix code on cases and

counterfeit goods.

DID YOU KNOW?

‘While less than one percent of counterfeit drugs are sold in industrialised nations, it is estimated 10 to 30 percent of medicines sold in developing countries are counterfeit. These

pallets with no aggregation

higher in low and middle

Source: The World Health Organization

income countries because many cases go unreported,’ Cohen explains.

Illicit trade also involves the

‘Line vendor’s can never be as specialised

and serialisation. Yet it’s

as real IT system providers which is why

important to bear in

Wipotec OCS focusses on its strengths –

Anti-malarials and antibiotics are amongst the most commonly reported substandard and falsified medical products. Both generic and innovator medicines can be falsified, ranging from very expensive products for cancer to highly cost-effective products for treating pain.

numbers are likely even

of compliance.

mind the end goal

automation and control,’ she comments.

is to achieve a fully

‘Our principal’s cameras and printing

serialised code.’

devices are fully integrated into a single user

Avoid the trap Serialisation doesn’t only involve putting a unique code on a carton

or a case. It encompasses systems working together

and touches all divisions within an organisation. Therefore, it’s important

interface known as ConfigureFast. Operators do not have to be experts in a particular brand of printer or camera and the need to “teach” the system during setup is eliminated. With Wipotec OCS’s high quality systems, the aggregation of a fully serialised line can be achieved effortlessly, ensuring full data visibility.’

distribution of stolen or expired

for manufacturers to choose their

A standardised approach

medicines and drug tampering,

serialisation system supplier wisely to

By nature, the pharma industry is global

affecting the pharma industry and

avoid ‘vendor lock-in’.

with supply chains that cross borders.

putting the safety of patients at risk.

Cohen explains: ‘Vendor lock-in

According to the GS1 website, a globally

To ensure supply chain security and

occurs when a manufacturer installs a

standardised system for traceability,

increase patient safety, the National

serialisation solution that uses proprietary

from product manufacture to patient

Department of Health (NDoH) has

Level 3 site server software. Inflexible

treatment, is imperative to comply

tabled the phased implementation

and incompatible with other vendors’

worldwide with the legal requirements

of GTIN-14 datamatrix barcodes in

hardware, pharmaceutical companies

for product traceability. In cases of cross

the Government Gazette. Deemed

could face financial risks when held

border trading, a GTIN can be used to

‘track and trace’, Global Trade Item

captive with proprietary software.

identify a product in any country without

Number (GTIN) compliance will

This is particularly prohibitive when

any restrictions or errors.

become mandatory in South Africa for

a manufacturer attempts to achieve

medicines procured in both the public

compliance across multiple sites.’

and private healthcare sectors. Despite

To eliminate vendor lock-in, a global

‘The use of standards maintains connections between systems and improves data integrity right up to the

being phased, Cohen advises pharma

consortium of pharma manufacturers

end user,’ says Cohen. ‘This means

manufacturers not to underestimate the

and vendors have launched the

the authenticity of medicines can be

time it takes to implement a track and

Open Serialisation Communication

checked, removing the possibility of

trace project.

Standard (Open-SCS) working group.

counterfeit products entering the supply

USS Pactech’s principal, Wipotec OCS is

chain. In a well-connected system,

project from scratch requires detailed

a founding member of Open-SCS. The

product recall effectiveness is also

planning and input from various

company is committed to developing

improved, reducing the risk to patients.’

‘Implementing a full serialisation

40

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//Made in SA The GS1 Healthcare Global User Group

To ensure the GS1 supply chain

associated with full supply chain visibility.

has been created to lead the successful

programme takes local conditions

But for now, manufacturers should focus

development and implementation of

into consideration, GS1 South Africa

on implementing the necessary changes

global GS1 standards in the healthcare

is actively communicating with the

to become compliant.’ •

sector. Wipotec OCS is a voting member

NDoH to provide advice and support on

on this user group, putting the company

implementing the global solutions.

in close proximity to the guidelines for

Uss Pactech – www.usspactech.co.za Wipotec OCS – www.wipotec-ocs.com

‘There are vast possibilities in

global serialisation and aggregation

establishing a fully global standards

in the field of pharmaceuticals and

infrastructure in South Africa, not to

medical devices.

mention the marketing opportunities

STEP 01

STEP 02

STEP 03

ConfigureFast User Interface

Define a print layout one time:

Machine is configured

Print data goes to printer and camera at the same time

Printer

In three easy steps, ConfigureFast from Wipotec OCS facilitates the swift configuration of all relevant units

Camera

Positive performance for Adcock Ingram

T

he proudly South Africa pharma

Extensive improvements

manufacturer reported a 20

Well controlled operating expenses

percent increase in trading

(allowing for additional expenditure

profit for the year ended 30 June

consequent to the Genop acquisition)

2018. This is significant considering the

contributed to a 20 percent improvement

price regulated environment in which

in trading profit which increased to R866

it operates and the difficult economic

million (2017: R724 million). All commercial

conditions in our country.

divisions showed an improvement in trading

‘The positive results were achieved through continued investment in our well-established brands, improved factory

profit, with the prescription, OTC and hospital divisions’ growth all above 15 percent.

The consumer division showed a muted

efficiencies, and a relentless focus on

trading profit growth of two percent.

customer service and product quality,’

Headline earnings for the year from

says Andy Hall, chief executive officer.

continuing operations increased to R645

A 10 percent increase in turnover to R6.5 billion rendered an improved gross profit which expanded as a percentage of sales to 39.2 percent from 37.8 percent in 2017.

An improved product sales mix, a

million compared to R514 million in the previous year.

The group remains committed in seeking additional affordable brands to augment its range of products and defend its position

favourable exchange rate and factory

in the market, as well as expand on its non-

efficiencies, particularly in its Wadeville

regulated portfolio to limit the impact of the

operations, were the major contributors to

extremely volatile exchange rate and an

this achievement.

unfavourable single exit price environment. •

ADCOCK INGRAM’S HIGHLIGHTS • Increase of 10 percent in turnover to R6.5 billion • Increase of 14 percent in gross profit to R2,6 billion • increase of 20 percent in trading profit to R866 million • Increase of 26 percent in HEPS from continuing operations • Total dividend increases 24 percent to 172 cents.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

41

ADVERTORIAL

Four new coatings

from JRS PHARMA

This year has been one of immense innovation for JRS Pharma Coatings, with the company having launched four new and ready to use coating systems.

V

IVACOAT is a fully formulated, ready to use, all in one film coating system produced by experts in a GMP certified environment, using state of the art equipment. The coating system is designed to perform on a wide range of film coating equipment, to meet the specific requirements of a formulation.

• VIVACOAT protect T is a taste protection, ready to use coating system. It was developed to shield the patient from the bitter or unpleasant taste of certain APIs, including plant extracts, B-vitamins, paracetamol (Acetaminophen) and Pseudoephedrine.

• VIVACOAT protect W is an advanced moisture barrier, ready to use coating system. It was developed to effectively protect moisture sensitive APIs. • VIVACOAT protect U safeguards especially natural colours like Riboflavins, Carotins, Chlorophylls and vegetable and fruit extracts from UV-induced colour fading.

AN INCLUSIVE PORTFOLIO JRS PHARMA’s innovative excipients and coatings, along with its formulation expertise and biopharma services, provide customers with a complete portfolio of solutions to develop and manufacture solid and liquid dosage forms.

VIVACOAT coating systems are available countrywide from Rettenmaier South Africa, JRS PHARMA’s Johannesburg-based sales organisation for sub-Saharan Africa. •

THE

Buyer’sguide

VIVACOAT PROTECT

• VIVACOAT protect E is an aqueous, ready to use enteric coating system, based on Methacrylic-Acid Copolymer. It was created to protect acid sensitive APIs, such as PPI and Erythromycin and/or to protect the stomach against irritating actives, like Aspirin and certain steroids.

2017/2018

Fibers designed

by Nature

RETTENMAIER SOUTH AFRICA

(Pty.) Ltd.

A Member of the JRS Group

Rettenmaier South Africa Phone: +27 (0)11 534 8619 E-mail: Sales@Rettenmaier.co.za

THE

Buyer’sguide 2018/2019

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

42

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

2018/05/07 3:09 PM

PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN

October 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 10

www.pharmacos.co.za

Precision solutions

for perfumes and pharmaceuticals

Technology disruptors from Marchesini

Flexible pack fit for every stage of recycling

NEWS

The purest form of packaging GLASS PACKAGING CONVEYS an interesting story. The packaging format is also indicative of a product’s quality. When product protection and safety are imperative, an inert material like glass serves as an ideal packaging option. Glass safeguards contents from oxygen ingress and cross contamination.

In spite of the slight decline in glass packaging volumes, it continues to be used in the beauty and personal care industry to communicate brand values beyond its functional purpose. You can read all about the beauty of glass and reasons for its decline in the pharma industry, on page 46.

Disruptive cosmetics industry innovations from Marchesini and a polyethylene mono-material patented pouch with detachable decorative panels, which is to be launched next year, are featured on our news page.

MARCHESINI TAKES DISRUPTIVE INNOVATIONS TO AMERICA AT PACK EXPO Chicago, from 14 to 17 October, Marchenisni will exhibit three new standalone machines. The MA 400 continuous motion horizontal cartoner, TURBO-MEK 150 vacuum turbo-emulsifier by Dumek and the RE 202 rotary labeller will be showcased. Dumek is the group’s brand specialising in the manufacturing of cosmetics processing machines.

The MA 400 is a completely updated machine

Enjoy the read!

with improved ergonomics, reliability and user friendliness. It inherits the best of the BA 400 cartoner, which has been the global benchmark

Assistant editor

in efficient reliability and ergonomic design in

Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za

the pharma and cosmetics industries. The MA

FLEXIBLE POUCH NOW FULLY RECYCLABLE MONDI, IN COLLABORATION with

Jens Kösters, manager of technical

Werner & Mertz, will introduce a new,

services at Mondi Consumer Goods

patented 100 percent recyclable

Packaging, says the team worked its

pouch with detachable decorative

way through an ‘innovation funnel’.

panels in 2019. This comes after

‘We tested different materials until

almost four years of development.

a “designed for recycling concept”

The pouch will replace conventional

was conceived and resonated with

flexible packaging for Frosch, a home

everyone at each point of the value

care brand sold in the US and UK. The

chain.’ The concept offers clear

pioneering design overcomes many

benefits related to sealing strength

shortcomings of the

and maximum

recycling process.

filling volume.

In 2014, Werner &

The final touch

Mertz made a bold

of detachable

move to develop

decorative panels

completely recyclable

was added to

packaging. This was

solve the issue of

before most FMCG

recycling printed

companies viewed

plastic materials,

a commitment to

giving the pouch a

sustainability as an

two layer finish.

indispensable building

The outer layer

block for brand equity.

is printed with the

The design aim of the

brand’s design

project was to ‘reverse

on the front

engineer’ the recycling

and consumer

process and create

the back. When empty, the pouch

recycling process. Sorting is a crucial

is shredded and sorted into two

and often neglected step. Failure to

components, which are sent to

sort the collected packaging into

separate recycling streams.

leads to down-cycling.

The packaging also needed to be

maintenance. It is compact in size – without compromising the machine’s high speed output and ease of use. This is owing to a range of control functions guaranteeing maximum efficiency. It comprises a new operator interface, Easy Door, which has several improvements from both a functional and aesthetic point. The new software makes the operating system more powerful and faster. The wider screen is more ergonomic and more sensitive.

The TURBO-MEK 150 vacuum turbo emulsifier is designed to process liquid and cream products for the cosmetics industry. It is suitable for cream/ milk products, serums, oils and balms and gels and lotions. Special versions of these machines are able to process other products such as make up, suppositories, hair dyes, toothpastes, mud products and shaving creams.

Neri developed the RE 202 rotary labeller.

This is the group’s branch specialising in the production of labelling machines. The labeller is a technically advanced and user friendly machine.

It offers extraordinary advantages among which are ergonomics and straightforward machine management. Marchesini is represented by MGSA Projects in South Africa.

information at

packaging fit for every stage of the

material streams that recyclers can use

400 guarantees fast changeover times and low

The material is free from adhesive.

Its spout and cap are also made of polyethylene, so the recycled

made of a polyethylene mono-material,

material is equivalent in quality to the

which is a prerequisite for recycling.

original material.

Inside the RE 202 rotary labeller

44

| OCTOBER 2018 | Packaging Review

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices.

Printing and frosting facilities are available.

Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

GLASS PACKAGING

Break the rules with

visible elegance Glass packaging lends an unmistakable brand identity to perfumes, skin creams and healthcare products. The clarity, clean lines and elegance of glass convey a premium promise and offer better protection to drug formulations. By Aarifah Nosarka

I

ncreased consumption of generic medicines and improved access to healthcare services present new

opportunities for pharma companies to replace glass packaging or produce it in house.

In the cosmetics industry, the seductive elegance, modern simplicity and cool sensuality of glass make it the unmistakable choice for packaging fine fragrances and perfumes.

Glass has the potential for a range of designs and finishes. Richard Irwin from Bottle Printers says it is difficult to pinpoint the most popular glass packs for cosmetics as it depends on consumer preferences, different target markets and pricing. Though the most frequent order Bottle Printers' advanced glass coating machine

sizes range from 50 to 100mℓ.

‘Customers are sourcing the same bottle for an entire range of fragrances.

To differentiate the individual products in the range, each is coated with a different colour and print finish,’ says Irwin.

This cost-sensitivity is as a result of the limited number of suppliers of fragrance bottles in South Africa.

MAINTAINING A STRONGHOLD

different to the standard packaging often

Pharma products that require glass are

seen on shelf.

more constant whilst demand is seasonal and predictable. In the cosmetics industry, glass bottles offer the potential

be erratic. The local fragrance industry

for different decorative effects.

particularly with direct selling. Things are

need to be imported, either

different in the pharmaceutical industry.

Manufacturers are moving away from

or through an agent or

glass because of the price and consumer

supplier. Once these

demand for increased convenience.

bottles are sourced and

Glass has the obvious disadvantage of

delivered, Bottle Printers

being fragile, which does not suit the

works with clients to

needs of the pharmaceutical market.’

create fresh, different

There is a massive gap in South

branding and

Africa to manufacture and supply glass

decorating avenues,’

fragrance bottles. Unique bottles are

says Irwin.

imported, which makes sourcing them

Trends in glass packaging are dependent and

| OCTOBER 2018 | Packaging Review

has boomed over the last few years

‘In South Africa, bottles by the customer directly

46

‘The demand for fragrances is based on fashion, which is seasonal and can

particularly difficult.

‘This gap in the South African market for the manufacture and means

GLASS PACKAGING

there are only a handful of reliable

a brand new concept. It involves a special

and consistent glass bottle suppliers

combination of hot melt and UV bonding

available. Minimum order quantities are

technology to apply a variety of materials,

also very high when importing. Suppliers

such as metal or wood straight onto glass

catering to fragrance start ups which

bottles. The concept has already been

don’t require more than a 5 000 order

tested and is expected to be ready for

EMERGING ECONOMIES SUCH as China, India,

requisite are few and far between,’

production during the first half of 2019.

and Brazil have been witnessing considerable

Irwin adds.

Hörauf says: ‘When it comes to a

DOORS OF OPPORTUNITY growth in the global pharma industry. According

connected process chain in the context

to Grand View Research (GVR), Brazil, Russia,

of screen printing, further process steps

India, China, Mexico and Turkey have shown

can be achieved. These include the use

strong economic growth over the past few years.

Gerresheimer has earned an excellent

of plastic inserts in bottle necks which can

These countries are transforming into comparable

reputation in the world of fragrances

be done in same machine cycle, saving

markets in terms of their size and nature when

and beauty products with its exquisite

money and reducing outlay.’

compared to the mature western counterparts.

specialised production facilities in two

SUPERIOR SYRINGES FOR ENHANCED PROTECTION

packaging pharma parenteral products. Yet GVR

locations which supply glass packaging

Schott AG (Schott) recently introduced

from the plastics industry, because glass is fragile

to leading multinationals in the

its syriQ BioPure pre-fillable glass syringes

and due to delamination and the costs involved.

cosmetics industry.

for the biologics market. The syringes are

UNMISTAKABLE GLASS PRODUCTS

bottles and jars and comprehensive service. The company has highly

Glass has always been the first choice for expects the medium will face strong competition

In the coming years, ageing populations,

designed to maintain the shelf life stability

increasing life expectancies and rising disposable

Belgium and the other, in the German

of sensitive drugs and to shorten time to

incomes are projected to provide packaging

city of Tettau. Both plants boast state

market while making administration more

companies with attractive opportunities in the

of the art production technology and

convenient for patients.

healthcare sector.

One of the facilities is in Momignies,

specialists who design and engineer

‘Sensitive and complex drugs are These syringes are available with a

complex shapes. The two sites also have

often highly viscous, which makes

departments dedicated to adding final

them more difficult to administer.

range of coated plunger stoppers tailored

touches and packaging embellishments.

They are prone to interaction with the

for sensitive applications. More than 48

container due to their complex molecule

combinations have been validated.

‘Customisation is key in the cosmetics industry, particularly on primary

structure,’ says Dr Nicolas Eon, Schott’s

packaging. In addition to the design of a

global product manager.

bottle, decoration plays an even greater

SyriQ BioPure syringes are manufactured

Meeting the need for improved patient comfort when administering medicines at home, the syringes work with leading

role. We want to reduce complexity for our

under improved processes to lower

safety and auto-injector devices. Seamless

customers,’ says Bernd Hörauf, company

tungsten and adhesive residuals and

integration is achieved thanks to the high

CEO in Tettau.

ensure a uniform silicone layer. These

dimensional accuracy of the syringe.

processes are validated and documented

This includes glass tubing inspected with

according to the FDA’s latest guidelines.

Schott’s big data perfeXion process.

At Gerresheimer, decoration is anything that can be offered to

Additional dimensions beyond ISO

customers as added value alongside

The syringes are made of highly inert

screen printing, colour spraying, acid

fiolax borosilicate glass – a gold standard

requirements and new geometrical

etching and pad printing.

for packaging complex pharma prodcuts.

tolerances are achieved using the

The company supplies directly to the

The suitability of this glass type for sensitive

company’s cutting edge forming

South African market from its Belgium and

medicines is well researched and backed

technology and online inspection systems.

German branches, where it has developed

by a strong track record.

These syringes are documented according to the latest design controlled

A variety of glas bottles produced by Bottle Printers

guidelines to support a combination of product requirements. This leads to a short time to market for the pharmaceutical industry, as all required documentation is fully available.

The company is represented in South Africa by Starrate, a supplier of pharma packaging and biological media which is based in Durban, KwaZulu-Natal. •

Bottle Printers – www.bottleprinters.co.za Gerresheimer – www.gerresheimer.com Starrate – www.starrate.co.za

Packaging Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

47

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

Shifting the

channels of SCIENCE

Themed ‘Beauty in HD’, the annual scientific conference of the South African Society of Cosmetic Chemists took place on 5 and 6 September at Bytes Conference Centre in Midrand, Johannesburg.

T

he cosmetics industry is a

These included:

dermal filler procedures are costly and only

complex one. Consumers are

• The Conundrum of Hydrating Ethnic Skin by

offer a short term solution to ageing, which

more empowered, transparency

Future Cosmetics Research presented by

made it fitting for Caroline Cochrane of The

has become more than a trend,

Janine Fitzpatrick of CJP Chemicals

Care Co. to share an interesting presentation

digital technologies are taking over, and

• Skin Re-Pigmentation through Melanin

on Acetylated Hyaluronic Acid from

brands are being created at the speed

transfer using Aspalathus Linearis by

Givaudan Active Beauty. The international

of light. With these and other topical

Analike Blom van Staden of the University

company has developed a topical,

issues highlighted at Coschem’s scientific

of Pretoria

cosmetic alternative, which behaves in the

conference, delegates were challenged over the two days to think differently.

In his opening address, Ivor Zwane, the

• Investigating the Impact of Grooming and

same way as a dermal filler, penetrating

Regular Braiding on African Hair Integrity

deeply into the skin, rapidly reducing

by Kwezikazi Molamodi of L’Oréal

wrinkles and the degradation of collagen.

society’s 2018 president, reminded delegates

South Africa

of the importance to keep pace with digital

• Interaction between Skin Surface pH and

Crucial to new product development, Beverley Gardner of SkyEm took delegates

transformation as it’s having a profound

Skin Hydration in Africans and Caucasians

on a journey of the global mega trends,

impact on the industry.

by Monica Young of North-West University

their drivers and the impact they have on

The keynote address, Skin Pigmentation:

• A Demonstration of Protein Treatment

the industry. Fundamentally, megatrends

The Good, the Bad and the Unknown, by

Benefits to Virgin and Relaxed African Hair

need to be incorporated into business in

Prof Lester Davids of the University of Pretoria,

via Tensile and Cyclic Fatigue Testing by

order to improve marketing and driving

dispelled many myths on dark skins. Prof

Lumbidzani Moyo of Croda South Africa

competitive advantage.

Davids took delegates through the process

• Hyperpigmentation: The Challenges

of pigmentation and how it occurs. He also

of Treatment by dermatologist,

and ice themed gala dinner hosted at

demystified the notion that skin colour or

Dr Lushen Pillay.

Montecasino on 6 September. •

pigmentation is related to race.

Prof Davids presentation set the tone for

The conference culminated with a fire

Trends in focus

a series of talks focused on the skin and

Every hour, 1 000 hyaluronic acid-based

hair concerns of Ethnic consumers which

injectable dermal filler procedures were

featured over the two days of the conference.

performed worldwide during 2016. Injectable

COSCHEM SCIENTIFIC CONFERENCE – BEAUTY IN HD

48

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

FIRE AND ICE THEMED GALA DINNER

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

Golfers putt away with the AMA

T

he Aerosol Manufacturers’

The winning fourball went to one of the

Although he was unable to attend the

Association of South Africa (AMA)

Puregas teams, with Freddi Mamadi, Danic

dinner, Norman Sanan of ISP Chemicals was

hosted its annual golf day on 19

Meyer, Philip Cloete and Wihan Fourie

also named an honourary member.

September at Glendower Golf

playing an excellent round of golf despite

Club, in Johannesburg. The Glendower

the fierce competition.

championship course is rated number one

The prize giving was MCed by Gordon Howell of Chemlink SA, who kept guests entertained with his excellent jokes. Table

in Gauteng and 12th best golf course in South

A social event

Africa by Golf Digest.

Apart from the opportunity to get out on

team prizes were sponsored by Puregas,

The golfers each received a fantastic

the golf course with fellow professionals

Nampak Divfood, Precision Valve South

goody bag filled with a cap, towel, pitch,

from the aerosols industry, the AMA golf

Africa, Afrox, Liquitel, Spraymate, Triton-Leo,

marker and pegs sponsored by Liquitel;

day prize giving dinner is fast becoming

Dabur, Khaya International Packaging, Rust-

an AMA branded aerosol sun care

a must-attend social event. There were

Oleum and Ecomist while Metcan, Nampak

product sponsored by Prime Product

a number of guests who joined the

Divfood and P C Review sponsored the

and a bottle of Rust-Oleum Neverwet

association just for the dinner to benefit

individual prizes.

sponsored by Spraymate.

from the chance to network.

To keep the golfers hydrated, there were

wine was sponsored by NCP Alcohols. The

Rudy Mclean of Symrise, industry

If you are interested in entering a fourball in the 2019 AMA golf day, attending as a

four watering holes on the course sponsored

consultant Peggy van Manen and Chris

dinner guest or sponsoring a prize, send an

by Nampak Divfood, Precision Valve South

Waldron of Nampak Divfood were presented

e-mail to execdir@aerosol.co.za for more

Africa, Afrox and Puregas.

with honourary membership certificates.

information about next year’s event. •

PRIZE GIVING AND GOLF DAY HIGHLIGHTS

AMA GOLF DAY SCORES • In first place, the Puregas fourball scored 99

• In eighth place, the Precision Valve South Africa fourball scored 88

• In second place, the Chemlink fourball scored 96

• In ninth place, Puregas’ second fourball scored 87

• In third place, Chemlink’s second fourball scored 95

• Tied in 10th place, the Prime Product and Chep fourballs

• Tied in fourth place, the Ecomist and Metcan fourballs both scored 94

both scored 85

• Tied in fifth place, the Divfood and Synvita fourballs both scored 91

• In 11th place, the Afrox fourball scored 79

• In sixth place, the Clarke Colours fourball scored 90

• In 12th place, the A-Gas fourball scored 75

• In seventh place, the Symrise fourball scored 89

• In 13th place, the Spraymate fourball scored 48

P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |

49

Tea time

Test your knowledge on skin!

TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Candida Giambo-Kruger

Quiz: 1. What are the three layers of the skin from the

outside in?

2. Which vitamin is produced by the skin?

3. What’s the most dangerous type of skin cancer?

4. How does an antihistamine soothe itchy skin?

5. What causes freckles or pigmentation?

6. Which of the cells are the most abundant in the epidermis?

7. Which layer of the epidermis contains melanocytes?

8. What is the name of the fibrous protein responsible for the strength and water resistance of the

skin’s surface?

Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

Answers: 1. epidermis, dermis, hypodermis; 2. vitamin D; 3. melanoma; 4. it blocks the chemical reaction; 5. melanin; 6. keratinocytes; 7. stratum basale; 8. keratin

A-Thermal Retort Technologies ................ 11.........www.athermal.co.za Brenntag..................................................37.........www.brenntag.com/south-africa Bruker...................................................... 19.........www.bruker.com/optics Carst & Walker.........................................33.........www.gattefosse.com ChemSystems..........................................31.........www.chemsystems.co.za Chempure...............................................36.........www.chempure.co.za CJP Chemicals........................................39.........www.cjpchemicals.co.za Crest Chemicals......................................22.........www.crestchemicals.co.za Croda South Africa.................................. IFC.........www.crodapersonalcare.com Evonik......................................................22.........www.evonik.com Future Publishing Solutions................... OBC.........www.saphex.co.za IMCD.......................................................25.........www.imcdgroup.com Kirsch Pharma South Africa................... OFC.........www.kirschpharma.com

50

| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review

Labotec/ELGA LabWater........................... 17.........www.labotec.co.za Materia Medica....................................... 34.........www.materiamedica.co.za Millchem................................................ 29.........www.millchem.co.za Moco Packaging......................................45.........www.mocopack.co.za Precision Valve South Africa.....................23.........www.precisionglobal.com Progetto International................................5.........www.progetto.co.za Puregas...................................................21.........www.puregas.co.za Rettenmaier South Africa.........................42.........www.rettenmaier.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals........................27.........www.savannah.co.za SDK Agencies..........................................35.........www.sdkagencies.com Serendipity Toiletries................................30.........www.serendipitytoiletries.co.za Verder Pumps.......................................... 18.........www.verder.co.za

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems,

Chemists’ website will find information

Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam

on membership, educational

Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters,

programmes (specific details

Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

pertaining to the Cosmetic Science

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical & cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

FORMPAK

BRB SILICONES

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging

The largest independent producer in the world of core and

and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.

www.brb-international.com

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER

QUANTUM COLOURS SA

Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme offers support

Your No. 1 industry leader for the

to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social needs and well being.

most comprehensive ranges of both

At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across SA, cosmetics

synthetic and natural colours – used

are used as tools to address visible side effects of treatment to assist patients

in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and

to restore self-esteem and face the world

industrial applications.

with confidence.

www.lgfb.co.za

Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.co.za

REGISTER TODAY FOR FREE Access Free Seminars Over 50 countries represented Network over 2000+ pre-registered visitors See over 120+ local & international exhibitors Don’t miss Africa’s leading pharma show

SPONSORED BY:

SUPPORTED BY:

SAPHEX 1st - 2nd November 2018 sc@saphex.co.za Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg, South Africa www.saphex.co.za/event-registration +44 (0) 0203 198 9622