Discover the magic of the Karoo

The dry windmill-dotted expanse of semi desert at the heart of South Africa’s interior provides opportunities for fascinating discoveries, restorative escapes and foodie delights

The vast arid scrubland of the Karoo contains volumes. Its dry, apparently featureless expanse has always held a forbidding place in the national consciousness – possibly because of the way in which its harsh conditions seems to form a barrier to the north of the Cape, which seemed impossible to traverse before the advent of roads and railways. Even now, it’s often a landscape people pass through, rather than a destination. The apparent emptiness of its wide-open plains, deep valleys, canyons and escarpment, however, belie not only an incredibly rich natural history and fascinating human heritage, but, to the accustomed eye, also reveal a unique sense of beauty and tranquillity that make it the perfect antidote to the frenetic pace of urban life: a place of almost spiritual peace and a promise of a more authentic life.

The Karoo’s ancient fossil beds are among the richest and most important in the world. Its diverse flora and fauna are quite unique. The clear dark skies of Sutherland reveal depths of the universe to stargazers that would be invisible anywhere else in the world. Human history is everywhere, too, from the cave walls revealing ancient rock art to the historical remnants of the Boer War. But perhaps what makes the huge hinterland of South Africa’s interior a fascinating and rewarding travel destination are not just the dramatic landscapes, fascinating sites and spectacular mountain passes, but the little villages dotted throughout the uninhabited landscape filled with character, creative and culinary delights.

Here are four highlights of the Karoo:

MATJIESFONTEIN

It seems as if time has stood still in this railway village, with its distinctive Victorian architecture, train station and perfectly preserved historic Lord Milner Hotel. Established in the late 1800s as a health resort in a little oasis in the semi desert, the entire village has been declared a National Heritage Site, so it’s essentially a living museum. The historic Trans Karoo railway line dates back to a time before the Anglo-Boer War, connecting fortune seekers to the interior where they sought diamonds and gold. Later, the railways were crucial to help move soldiers and supplies during the war. The trains still pass through, and you can also take a ride on the Old London Bus, or explore local history in the Transport and Victoriana museums, and step back in time for dinner at the hotel.

SUTHERLAND

Famously the coldest place in the whole of South Africa, where snow is a common annual occurrence, sleepy Sutherland is notable around the world as an astronomical observatory with state-of-the-art telescopes, including SALT (Southern African Large Telescope), the southern hemisphere’s largest single optical telescope. Its unpolluted air and crystal-clear skies make ideal conditions for amateur stargazers peering into the breath-taking night sky and for scientists unlocking the mysteries of the universe alike. The surrounding area is renowned for its botanical tours and the nearby Rooiberg mountains of the Karoo highlands provide an appropriately dramatic setting, while Karoo hospitality and famous lamb dishes are available in several of the quaint Victorian buildings. Continued …

PRINCE ALBERT

Prince Albert acts as a kind of gateway to the Karoo, with its country charm and beautiful surroundings enabled by a perennial spring that sustains its lush gardens, vineyards and fruit orchards. Beautifully preserved Cape Dutch and Victorian buildings deliver character by the bucketload, but perhaps more than anything, Prince Albert has become known as a culinary destination with its own unique regional character. Of course, the gorgeous Karoo lamb is at the heart of the cuisine, but olives, wine, cheese, dried fruit and more abound. In fact, cooking tours and holidays have become a key attraction as this burgeoning little village has become established not just as a getaway, but as a permanent home for many escapees of the urban rat race, who relocate here to soak up the rural lifestyle. Prince Albert is also famous for its champion Angora goats, which make it the epicentre of the South African mohair industry, so you’ll find the most beautiful mohair products here too.

SWARTBERG PASS

The scenic entry to Prince Albert, which is just 4km from the northern end of the pass with its zigzags and switchbacks, is deserving of and entry all on its own. The pass itself is a national monument, its historical significance as roadbuilder Thomas Bain’s last and greatest achievement of engineering and construction (realised with the labour of convicts). Packed stone retaining walls line the untarred roads along certain sections. Needless to say, the scenery and views are breath-taking – a photographer’s dream, especially the famous four hairpin bends that have become the pass’s most famous icon. The turnoff to Gamkaskloof/ Die Hel (where you should book overnight accommodation if you’re considering taking this route) provides the possibility of more iconic photos of the road winding through the spectacular geological formations. An alternative though the Swartberg Mountain range is Meiringspoort, a tarred link between the Great and Small Karoo over the Swartberg mountains, with its own delights.

Landscape Tours has specialised in senior travel since 1989 and its mission is to provide efficient, effective and friendly, fully inclusive service to their clients, taking the stress and inconvenience out of touring, while always keeping your comfort and safety in mind. Landscape Tours has several planned tours of the Karoo region, including their Karoo Foodie Tour (2 April and 18 September), Prince Albert and the Swartberg (15 May and 16 October), Route 62 (12 March, 5 April, 5 May, 16 October) and Karoo Skies (16 February, 29 March, 8 November). Unless specified, each tour is accompanied throughout by a friendly and professional Landscape tour leader, assisted by local guides where required. For more information, go to www.landscapetours.co.za