Passport to the Oregon Coast

SERVING THE CENTRAL OREGON COAST FROM TILLAMOOK TO FLORENCE • WWW.OREGONCOASTPASSPORT.COM

Location Location Location Portland 99W

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Lincoln City

Salem

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Table of Contents Tillamook

Pelican Pub Pacific City

Lift Off Lincoln City

Chop Till You Drop Depoe Bay

A Whale of a Good Time Newport

Pedal Pushing Paradise Toledo

Thriving Art Scene Waldport

Come Play on Alsea Bay Yachats Go to Town Things to Do Florence Visit Florence

4-7 5 8-10 9 12-19 14 20-23 21 25-31 26 32-33 32 34-37 35 39-41 40 42 45-47 46

A Publication of the Publisher

James Rand

Advertising Contacts Barbara Moore Teresa Barnes John Anderson Krisstina Borton Kathy Wyatt

Editor

Nancy Stienberg

Contributors

Jo-Hanna Wienert Nancy Steinberg Port of Alsea The Green Salmon City of Newport Michael Gibbons Cal Applebee Digital Dunes Photography

Design

| eongdi.com Central Oregon Coast Passport is published once a year by the NewsTimes. All rights reserved, material may not be reprinted without written consent from the publisher. Central Oregon Coast Passport makes every effort to maintain the accuracy of information presented in the magazine, but assumes no responsibility for errors, changes or omissions.

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831 NE Avery St. Newport, OR 97365 • 541.265.8571 newportnewstimes.com

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www.oregoncoastpassport.com 3

TILLAMOOK

On Tap in Tillamook Pelican Pub’s new production facility is brewing up a storm

By Nancy Stienberg

T

he Pelican Pub, right on the beach at Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City, has long drawn visitors and locals for its award-winning beers and fresh, delicious menu of Northwest cuisine. The Pelican has been growing and growing, and has finally outpaced the production capacity of the Pacific City brewery. How to keep pace with the growing demand for Kiwanda Cream Ale and all of the other fantastic Pelican Pub brews?

The answer is a sparkling-new craft brewery, located in a beautifully refurbished warehouse in downtown Tillamook. All Pelican brews distributed to restaurants and grocery stores are now made here (beer purchased and consumed on site at the Pacific City location is still brewed there). The Tillamook facility also includes the Tap Room, where visitors can purchase Pelican beers and delicious food, all while watching the beer being made and bottled on the production floor below.

A recent tour of the Tillamook Brewery, led by Pelican Pub brewmaster Darron Welch, explained the entire brewing process and highlighted what makes Pelican brews so special. He began at the beginning, the silos towering over the parking lot in front of the building. These structures store the malted barley, the first raw ingredient of beer. Most of Pelican’s malt comes from Vancouver, WA, the first of many local and regional ingredients Pelican insists on using in its beer and food. The grain runs through a series of steps: milling, soaking to turn starches into fermentable sugars, boiling (this is where the Northwest-grown hops, from the Willamette and Yakima Valleys, are added), fermenting, filtering, and bottling. While the main variable that determines the

variety of beer being brewed is the type of malt used, variations at other steps of the process influence the taste, body, color, and alcohol content of the finished product.

All of Pelican’s brews – their core brands and main seasonal brews – are now brewed here in Tillamook.

The day of the tour, Silverspot IPA was being bottled, and the brewers on the floor were gearing up for a run of Pelican’s best-selling Kiwanda Cream Ale to begin the following day. Each batch produces 30 barrels (about 930 gallons) of beer; the Tillamook facility is expected to produce about 8,600 barrels in the coming year, more than twice what the Tillamook and Pacific City breweries produced together last year.

What sets Pelican beers apart? Welch says it’s the distinctive flavor profiles they’ve developed carefully over the brewery’s nearly twenty years in business.

“Each brew draws you in with a distinctive aroma and has a clear, refreshing finish that invites the next sip. The flavor links the beginning and end in a strong way. They all have a beginning, middle, and end that are logical and that people can appreciate,” Welch explained.

Welch is thrilled with how things are running at the new facility, and happy to be in Tillamook. “We’ve always been based in Tillamook County, and we wanted to continue to provide opportunities locally,” Welch said. “Also, I’m a fanatic about keeping my eye on things and I didn’t want the new facility to be far from Pacific City. The City of Tillamook has made us feel very welcome and has taken a great interest in this project,” he added.

Tillamook continued on page 7

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Plans for expansion will be undertaken cautiously, Welch said. Currently, Pelican beers are distributed only in Oregon and Washington, but negotiations are underway to expand to neighboring states.

“We’d like to expand from our home base outward, throw down deep roots here, and then grow,” Welch said. “We want to continue to focus on quality and freshness, and on making sure that when customers buy the Pelican brand, they’re getting the flavor for which we’re known.”

The emphasis on flavor is also reflected in the food at the Tillamook Tap Room, which serves simple and fresh sandwiches, soups, and salads, many of which were drawn from the popular menu at the Pacific City restaurant. Welch refers to the food as “beer cuisine.” “Our food is either inspired by, uses, or pairs well with different types of beer,” he said.

In keeping with that approach, every menu listing is accompanied by a suggested beer pairing. I ordered the Wait, It’s More grilled cheese, made with sharp Tillamook cheese, bacon, and tart apple slices – absolutely delicious. The beer-battered fries were also phenomenal. The sandwich paired perfectly with the hoppy and aromatic Silverspot IPA, as the menu suggested. On future trips I’ll try the Walk on the Wild Side elk burger topped with chipotle sauce (pairing: Doryman’s Ale), or the basket of Netarts fried oysters (pairing: Tsunami Stout), or the Spent Grain Veggie Burger made in-house with the spent grains from the brewing process (pairing:

MacPelican’s Ale). In a perfect pairing of the two best Tillamook products, the dessert offerings include the ultimate root beer float made with Pelican root beer and Tillamook vanilla ice cream. There are always new seasonal brews to try as well, so perhaps many trips to Tillamook will dot my calendar. Visitors can also buy bottles and growlers of Pelican beers at the Tap Room.

Welch hopes to contribute to cultivating an educated, sophisticated beer culture much like the thriving wine culture. “The range of flavor in beers is vast, broad, and deep; it quite frankly puts wine to shame,” he contended. He and his staff of brewers are constantly working on new brews and love to share their expertise with visitors. So plan to visit the Pelican brewery in Tillamook, and come thirsty.

When You Go Pelican Tillamook Brewery & Tap Room

1708 First Street, Corner of First and Stillwell, Tillamook (503) 842-7007 www.yourlittlebeachtown.com/pelican/taproom Open daily 11:30 am to 9:00 pm

www.oregoncoastpassport.com 7

PACIFIC CITY

LIFTOFF! It’s easy to defy gravity. Just take a hang gliding lesson in Pacific City

By Nancy Stienberg

H

aven’t you had that dream, the one where you can fly, where you take one leap and simply cut the tethers of gravity, rise, and soar over the world below? Are you disappointed when you wake up?

Solution: fly while you’re awake. Experiencing this dream in reality, I discovered, is eminently possible, by taking a hang gliding lesson in Pacific City with John Matylonek of Oregon Hang Gliding. “What does it feel like?” a bystander watching the flight portion of my lesson asked me. “It feels exactly like dreams of flying,” I told him.

For my husband and me, our day with John started with ground school at the Corvallis Municipal Airport; during summer months his ground school is usually conducted in Pacific City very close to where students’ flights will be. We began with a slide show, learning a little of the history of hang gliding, the physics of flight, and then the theoretical underpinnings of how a hang glider works. We learned about pitch, roll, and yaw; about the tradeoffs between lift and control; about takeoff and landing; the importance of wind speed and direction; and how to shift the shape of the wings of the glider by shifting our own weight. As we learned about how to hold the glider frame during takeoff and landing, we practiced on metal bars simulating the pieces of the glider we’d use later. John’s instruction was patient and clear, and always enthusiastic.

Throughout, John emphasized safety. To put your, and my mother’s, mind at ease: hang gliding is very, very safe. “There’s a weird perception of risk in this sport, based on old ways of doing things,” John explained, “but the accident rate is very low.” John’s full instructional curriculum, which he designed himself, relies on incremental learning. He likes his students to be challenged but never dangerously so.

“You’ll learn one new thing, one skill, how to deal with one environmental challenge, at a time,” he said, of his full certification program.

We tried out two flight simulators next: one electronic, and one mechanical facsimile of the glider frame (we wouldn’t “earn our wings” until we reached Pacific City later in the day). Although the electronic flight simulator focuses on mid-flight skills, and we really needed to learn takeoffs and landings first, John let me try it out. I was suspended in a harness, watching a large screen depicting the landscape below. I shifted my weight to keep the landing site in view, performing figure-eights until I could come in for a landing. Virtual success!

We also worked in the mechanical simulator,

practicing switching our grip appropriately at Photo of

by Ariana Morris and shifting our different phases the launch weight by pulling the frame left and right to keep on a straight and even path. John explained that for students undertaking the full hang gliding flight school, the first skill to master is simply running down the beach toward a target, keeping the wings level the entire time.

Our next step was to drive to Pacific City, where we parked near the Pelican Pub at Cape Kiwanda and began to unpack the glider. It wasn’t until we stretched out the glider’s gorgeous green and blue wings and began setting it up that I got a little nervous. It was quite windy, blowing perhaps 15 knots from the southwest -- great conditions, actually, but still a little scary for a newbie. I could feel my heart beating in my chest as we undertook John Matylonek

www.oregoncoastpassport.com 9

the complete pre-flight check of the assembled glider. Then there was no turning back. We kited the glider halfway down the gentle dune that rolls up to the pub (not, as many friends had imagined, to the top of the huge dune on the cape!). John showed me how to take control of the glider and clip my harness to the frame.

While he shouted encouragement and instructions, I then put into practice what I had learned on the ground. I ran, shifted my grip on the frame, pulled back to go “faster than trim” to maintain control, and …

Flew!

John and my husband held onto the side wires of the glider the entire time. I was not totally solo, but it didn’t matter. The feeling of elation and freedom was so overwhelmingly astonishing that I laughed and shouted. I think John was delighted to see me so delighted, so he laughed too. I came to a gentle landing on the beach, and we turned around and did it again. And again.

My husband and I took about a dozen flights each.

We kept walking the glider further and further up the dune, and I caught more air each time. As the wind picked up we had to shift out weights more to compensate. John taught us to “flare” to land like many birds do, by pushing the frame out so the wings catch the wind, hovering for a moment, and dropping gently to the ground.

After we tired, we packed up the glider and debriefed over a beer and some dinner at the Pelican 10- www.oregoncoastpassport.com

Pub. “Success in hang gliding is achieved through integrating the physical, intellectual, and emotional skills you need,” John explained. I could see that we had just scratched the surface of the physical part, and the other parts would take much more work.

Full hang gliding certification takes many hours of instruction and mastery of a range of skills.

Fortunately, Oregon is probably the best place to learn, as it has sites to suit every level of learning, from the Pacific City dunes to mountains and cliffs, and every step in between. John uses sites all over the area for training, from Lebanon to Corvallis to Pacific City, and is working on securing access to others as far afield as Vancouver, WA. John’s unique instructional program can be tailored for groups as large as a dozen or so (he was gearing up for a bachelorette party), and there is no real age limit on participation. He can arrange tandem flights as well, for those under about 160 pounds. I plan on accompanying him on a tandem flight soon, which I’m sure will further feed my dreams of flying.

When You Go Oregon Hang Gliding’s various training options are detailed on their web site at www.oregonhanggliding. com, or call John Matylonek at (541) 913-1339. The one-day introductory lesson I took was $130.

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Chop ‘til you Drop Hone your cooking skills at the Lincoln City Culinary Center

by Nancy Steinberg

I

spent most of a gorgeous, sunny Saturday last winter tied to the kitchen peeling potatoes, breaking eggs, and chopping vegetables … and absolutely loved every minute of it. I was one of twelve students enrolled in a three-hour cooking class at the Lincoln City Culinary Center, a city-run facility that offers hands-on cooking classes, demonstrations, and a suite of cook-offs throughout the year. A day spent in their beautiful facility overlooking the beach learning a delicious new skill and then eating my creations was my idea of heaven.

The class I took was focused on pasta-making, but the center offers a wide range of classes, from dumplings to Asian food, grilling to baking, New Orleans cuisine to cioppino. About two-thirds of the participants in the center’s offerings are from out of town. No experience is necessary to come and learn in the kitchen, and everything – ingredients, knives, aprons – is provided. The classes focus on seasonal foods, and they use local and organic products whenever possible.

I was a first-timer, as were almost all of the students in the pasta class. They included couples, motherdaughter teams, and friends who had signed up together. Eric had the letters G, O, O, D tattooed on the knuckles of one hand and E, V, I, L on the other.

Jamie was from just down the road in Newport, and had given the class to her mom as a Christmas gift for them to do together. Gretchen spends half the year in Lincoln City and the other half in Orange County, CA. They were all brimming with enthusiasm and a good deal of experience in their own kitchens, although beginners are more than welcome here.

Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert

14- www.oregoncoastpassport.com

We all arrived a few minutes early, and were treated to coffee, fruit, and coffee cake in the expansive dining room of the center on the fourth floor of the Lincoln City City Hall building overlooking the beach. Culinary Center Executive Chef Sharon Wiest and guest chef Pati D’Eliseo, proprietor of A Posto Personal Chef Services, introduced the menu and procedures for the day.

Wiest immediately put us all at ease. “One of my favorite phrases is, ‘it’ll be fine!’” she began. “If we cut something wrong, it’ll be fine! If we measure something wrong, it’ll be fine! I want you to focus more on the techniques than exact measurements.”

With that, we all headed back to the gleaming, well-equipped industrial kitchen. After a basic pasta dough-making demonstration, we broke into two groups, each of which was focused on a different main dish. My group began by making a buckwheat pasta dough, which was to be made into wide noodles for the hearty, casserole-like pizzocherrie with cabbage and potatoes. “This dish is from way north in the Alps,” D’Eliseo explained. “If you were in the Alps skiing and you were tired and hungry, this is what you’d have – it’s very filling.”

We hand-mixed the dough, bringing me back to my play-dough days. While the dough sat, we all took on tasks for the preparation of the potato and cabbage pieces of the pasta dish. One pair of students worked on the chocolate ravioli that would serve as the dessert course for our meal. Others began cutting up fennel and blood oranges for salad.

After we had all had a chance to use the pasta maker and hand-cut the buckwheat noodles, we traded jobs with some of the other half of the class.

I got to do a little of everything: putting the dough through the pasta maker, cutting noodles, rolling garganelli (gorgeous tube-shaped noodles perfect for holding the chunky Bolognese-like white sauce from central Italy we made to accompany them), peeling and chopping potatoes.

Throughout, the instructors offered tips, oversaw

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techniques, and provided background and running commentary. “Pasta shapes are matched to the kind of sauce,” D’Eliseo explained at one point. “With these tubes, you want a chunky sauce so you get a wonderful surprise when you bite down.”

I learned to chiffonade herb leaves. I learned a cool new way to chop onions. I learned how to fill ravioli. Sharon and Pati were patient, encouraging, and really, really funny. My fellow students were delightful and enthusiastic, and ready to help each other out. The ingredients we used were fresh and high-quality.

And the finished product … oh my. When all was done and we had cleaned up our work benches, we took off our aprons and grabbed a glass of wine. We served ourselves the dishes we had prepared: fennel and orange salad, garganelli bianco (the hand-rolled pasta with white sauce), pizzoccherie (buckwheat pasta with cabbage and potatoes), and chocolate ravioli with chocolate port sauce and marionberry coulis. No one ate better than we did that afternoon.

We even got to bring the leftovers home (make sure to bring Tupperware if you take a class there!).

The center offers hands-on classes such as this two or three times a month, usually with a limit of twelve students, sometimes fewer depending on the type of cooking to be done, for $55. They also offer demonstrations for as little as $20, which include a meal of whatever is being demoed that day. Every spring they conduct a three-day Italian cooking class, and four times a year they sponsor cook-offs.

The cook-offs are very popular: local chefs and restaurants enter their best chowder, fish tacos, jambalaya, or wild mushroom recipes, and submit them to professional judges. A people’s choice winner is also chosen by those that come through.

During spring break week they offer a pizza-making class for kids. Groups can arrange custom classes as well, the perfect activity for a team-building meeting or family reunion.

I feel confident that I can recreate the dishes I made there at home (recipes for all dishes were provided), but more important, I gained the confidence to try a whole new kind of cooking now that I understand the techniques involved. I’d invite you to dinner, but a better idea is for you to sign up for a class yourself – you’ll never regret it.

When You Go Lincoln City Culinary Center 801 SW Hwy 101 (541) 557-1125 www.oregoncoast.org/culinary/ 16- www.oregoncoastpassport.com

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HAVE A WHALE OF A TIME DEPOE BAY: THE WHALE WATCHING CAPITAL OF THE OREGON COAST

By Nancy Steinberg

I

t’s no wonder that tiny, charming Depoe Bay, 12 miles north of Newport, has been dubbed the Whale Watching Capital of the Oregon coast. Highlights of its downtown include a whale and sea life museum and a State Parks-run whale watching center. Multiple companies run whale watching charters out of what is proudly referred to as the World’s Smallest Harbor. And if you walk along the waterfront almost any time of year, you are likely to spot one of these magnificent mammals. Sometimes, they come so close to shore here that the binoculars are optional. If you are a fan of whales, a visit to Depoe Bay is a must, including these stops.

Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center

This small concrete building just north of the Depoe Bay bridge and at the entrance to the harbor was built in 1956 as

restrooms for the popular scenic overlook that had been on the spot since 1930. Oregon State Parks took over its operation in 2008, and it was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2012.

Inside and out of the weather, rangers can answer your questions about whales, local marine life, and other topics. Binoculars are provided so you can scan for whales and spy on offshore fishing boats, and a range of fascinating exhibits covers everything from what local whales eat to where grey whales go when they’re not right out in front of the building.

Whale bones abound, some as big as tree trunks.

Other exhibits include information about sea otters (thought to be extinct in Oregon waters, with a few sightings giving reason for optimism in recent years), beach debris, and local species. If the weather cooperates, or you are brave, there is an outdoor viewing platform upstairs in the “turret” of the building, where the viewing is even better.

Local whale species include humpback whales;

Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert www.oregoncoastpassport.com 21

occasional blue whales, minkes, and orcas; even more occasional sperm whales further offshore; and a range of types of dolphins and porpoises. The main attraction for whale watchers here, though, is grey whales. About 18,000 of these 40-foot long behemoths migrate along our shores, heading south to Baja, Mexico in December and January, and north to their Bering Sea feeding grounds in March through June. Contrary to popular belief, there is not a separate population of “resident” whales; about 200 or so individuals from this larger group remain along our coast in the summer, feeding on small crustaceans in the nearshore kelp beds. These individuals are visible until about mid-November, when they join the general migration south.

Make sure to check on the records of recent sightings posted at the Whale Watching Center, and be ready to add your own observations to the list!

Whale, Sealife & Shark Museum

For many years, marine biologist and naturalist Carrie Newell has operated whale watching excursions from a small zodiac boat anchored in Depoe Bay Harbor. Two years ago, she realized a dream by opening a museum focused on ocean life in downtown Depoe Bay, sharing her love of all things marine, and her personal collection of marine life samples, with locals and visitors alike.

The walls, or at least the ones not taken up by exhibits overflowing with specimens, photos, and information, are decorated with gorgeous sea life murals painted by local wildlife artist Justin Sparks, whose gallery is just down the street. One exhibit 22- www.oregoncoastpassport.com

demonstrates the identification of individual local grey whales based on coloration, scrapes, and cuts on their bodies and tails. Another provides extensive information about shark species, and allows visitors to touch shark skin. A series of displays – Echinoderms (sea stars and sea urchins), Arthropods (including crabs), Porifera (sponges), Strange Fish – shares with visitors Newell’s extensive collection of specimens highlighting the fascinating diversity of ocean life.

An entire room is dedicated to marine birds, and there is a room for seals and sea lions and another for whales as well. Visitors can touch a river otter pelt and compare fluke (tail fin) sizes of various whale species. A small theater shows videos about marine life, and don’t miss the opportunity to press the “Whale Spout” button. The sweet gift shop features toys, sea shells, books, and stuffed animals.

Newell and her staff still run whale watching excursions on two zodiacs (a third is in the works).

Each boat takes six passengers, and there is no better way to get to view the whales than at sea level in a small boat. Some of the photos in the museum of the close encounters Newell’s boats have had with local gray whales will convince you to go on this adventure. Trips range in length from an hour to two.

Sign up at the museum itself – your $5 admission is deducted from the cost of your whale watching trip.

Whale Watching Excursions

Once you’ve learned all there is to know about these animals on land, it could be time to head to sea to meet them up close. If a zodiac is not for you, there are multiple other vendors that run whale watching excursions out of Depoe Bay Harbor. You can sign up for Carrie Newell’s zodiac trips at the Whale, Sealife & Shark Museum. Tradewinds Charters runs a small fleet of fishing and whale watching boats, 34-50 feet in length; one- and two-hour trips are available.

Dockside Charters offers two boats: a zodiac and a larger charter vessel, to take you to the whales however you’d prefer. One hour and 90-minute tours are available.

When You Go Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center 119 Hwy 101, Depoe Bay (541) 765-3304 www.oregonstateparks.org Hours vary – call for details Admission: free Note: The Whale Watching Center will be closed in early June for interior repairs. Please call to confirm hours.

Whale, Sealife, & Shark Museum 234 SE Hwy 101, Depoe Bay (541) 765-2219 oregonwhales.com/Museum/museum.html Summer hours: Daily 9 am – 5 pm Admission: Adults $5, Children ages 3-12 $3, Under 3 free. Admission prices are deductible from cost of whale watching trip Tradewinds Charters (541) 765-2345 www.tradewindscharters.com Dockside Charters (541) 765-2545 www.docksidedepoebay.com

Whale Watching Spoken Here (and lots of other coastal spots as well!)

Each spring and fall, as gray whales begin their migrations, stations pop up along the Oregon coast with signs that say “Whale Watching Spoken Here,” including the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center. Volunteers staff these stations and provide spotting scopes and binoculars to help visitors catch a glimpse of the whales. The volunteers are trained in whalespotting techniques and cetacean natural history, and can answer all of your whaley questions.

For more information about this decades-old program, or to see a map of Whale Watching Spoken Here locations, visit www.oregonstateparks.org/index.cfm?do=thingstodo.dsp_whaleWatching. www.oregoncoastpassport.com 23

Experience the Oregon Coast Ocean and Non-ocean View Rooms Indoor Pool, Hot Tub, Fitness Center, Restaurant & Lounge, Free WiFi www.agatebeachinn.com 3019 N Coast Hwy, Newport For reservations call 800-547-3310

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890 SE Bay Blvd Newport 541.574.6777 800.749.4993

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448 E. Olive Street • Newport 541-265-2381 • www.grovevet.com

NEWPORT

Pedal-Pushing Paradise Biking around Newport

by Nancy Steinberg

N

ewport is well on its way to becoming the most bike-friendly town on the Oregon coast, so when you come, don’t forget to load those bikes into the car. Whether you’ve got a sleek, speedy road bike, a tricked-out high-tech mountain bike, or a touring bike with a tinkly bell and a wicker basket on the handlebars, there’s a ride for you in and around town.

Bike rides in the Newport area include road rides with and without killer hills, beautiful paved bike paths, and gnarly trails that include everything from gravel road to single track.

A lovely, flat, family-friendly ride is found at South Beach State Park, where a one-mile paved trail runs from the day use area parking lot to the South Jetty parking area. The trail is protected from the summer wind, but the ocean is always nearby:

multiple beach access points and an interpretive boardwalk along the trail can make for great side trips. Songbirds and the sound of crashing waves just on the other side of the dunes provide a stellar soundtrack. This ride can hook up to the paved trails along the south side of Yaquina Bay all the way to the NOAA facility, and even out to Idaho Point on flat, wide roads along the bay and King Slough (see the map of the South Beach Ride).

The Lighthouse to Lighthouse ride (see map) takes road riders along a significant stretch of oceanfront, punctuated at either end by a spectacular lighthouse.

This moderately challenging ride runs the length of the Nye Beach neighborhood, offering a good workout along with its gorgeous views. Note that along some of the route the road is marked with reflective “sharrows,” which remind drivers to share

Photo by Jo -Hanna Wienert 26- www.oregoncoastpassport.com

these popular biking roads with cyclists. A short stretch of Highway 101 is necessary on this ride.

Keep in mind that the Lighthouse Drive piece of the ride, which extends from Highway 101 to the Yaquina Head Lighthouse, is only accessible during the operating hours of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area.

If you want to get out into the woods on mountain bike trails, there are a number of options. A gravel and dirt road extends from Big Creek Park (see City Parks Loop Ride map) along the shore of Newport’s drinking water reservoir, an out-andback ride of a little less than 4 miles (please respect private property, which begins at the yellow gate at the end of the road). You can add about 1.5 miles on to this ride by riding on dirt, gravel, and boardwalks on the Ocean to Bay trail from Big Creek Park to Agate Beach and back.

More serious mountain bikers can apply for a free permit to ride a web of trails accessible behind Oregon Coast Community College in South Beach (south of the bridge on the east side of 101 – watch for signs). These trails are the site of the annual Coast Hills Classic mountain bike race that takes place in muddy May. For a permit, contact Yaquina Bay Property Management at 541-265-3537. You will need to send them a copy of your photo ID, current address, phone number, and a list of activities you intend to undertake while on the trails (e-mail dani@ yaquinabayproperties.com). It can take up to two weeks to get the permit so plan ahead! You can also get permits at the Wilder Development’s office on-site at the development, which is along the road leading to the community college. Call 541-867-7578 for more information.

My personal favorite local bike ride is along the Bay Road (see the map of the City to City Ride) between the Newport’s Bayfront and the city of Toledo. Wide, flat, and low-traffic for most of the ride, this trek takes riders from the scent of salt-water taffy and the bustle of the Bayfront’s restaurants and shops, through the quiet stillness of Yaquina Bay’s backwaters, to the industrial waterfront of Toledo.

Riders can start from Yaquina Bay State Park where there is free parking, and ride downhill under the Yaquina Bay Bridge and along the entire commercial stretch of the Bayfront to begin the ride; because I live in town I ride from my house and often hook up with the Bay Road by the Embarcadero Resort. I’ve done this ride many times and it’s never the same twice, depending on the weather, the time of day, and the whims of nature.

After leaving the Bayfront behind, one of the first sites on the ride is the Port of Newport’s International Terminal. Riding east, traffic becomes lighter, unless you count the bustling bird life of the bay: great blue herons by the dozens stalk prey in the shallows while shore birds peck nervously at the mud. An observant rider will note the shards of clam shells along some stretches of road where gulls have dropped clams onto the pavement to smash them open to get to the meat. Turkey vultures, ospreys, bald eagles, and all manner of aquatic birds are familiar

sites along the ride as well.

At MP 7 is Oregon Oyster Farms, where succulent oysters are now raised on long ropes dangling from docks in the bay (and where you can purchase oysters directly, but maybe it’s better to wait until you’re in your car rather than on your bike). Just after the oyster farm, if you look up to the hillside to your left, you’ll see a peculiar, modern-day hobbit house set into the hillside.

This is Dragonfly Hill, an earth-bermed home built of reinforced concrete. For more information about the fascinating process of building this special house, see dragonflyhill.org.

Around MP 9 there is a spot to pull over, rehydrate, and survey the sparkling bay.

Wildflowers are abundant in the spring along this part of the road, and even when the fog has rolled onto the shore in the summer, by this point the ride is often sunny. Riders come to the outskirts of Toledo around MP 10, where there are neat houses, many with gorgeous flower gardens.

At MP 11 The Hill begins. It’s a long, slow, agonizing climb that rises above the bustling Port of Toledo and Georgia Pacific mill. If you can cast some glances across the landscape as you climb, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of the humming port.

Once in Toledo, take a right on Rte. 20 and another right onto NW A Street, which deadends at a small waterfront park, a great place to recharge before heading back.

One note about this ride: it’s best to start it as early in the day as you can, not only because the morning light is beautiful, but also because when the wind picks up this can be a windy ride in both directions. The ride is about 27 miles round-trip if you start at Yaquina Bay State Park.

Whether you ride this route or just use your bike to tool around town, you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous views and a hearty workout – go ahead, have that giant pile of fish and chips for dinner – you’ve earned it!

Photo by Jo -Hanna Wienert www.oregoncoastpassport.com 27

City Parks Loop:

7 mi. RT. Easy to moderately challenging. Pack a picnic and enjoy time in any one of the nine City parks on this loop.From bird watching to skateboarding or whale watching to ball games, each park provides a special place for those who pass through.

Lighthouse to Lighthouse:

10 mi. RT. Follow the Oregon Coast Bike Route for a moderately challenging ride between Yaquina Bay Lighthouse (1871) and Yaquina Head Lighthouse (1872). This route takes the rider through the Nye Beach Historic District, offers stunning ocean views, and has enough elevation change to provide a good workout.

Pedal continued on page 30

Biking Resources in Newport The Newport biking culture has been growing in the past few years, thanks largely to the efforts of Elliott and Daniella Crowder, the owners of Bike Newport, Newport’s excellent bike shop. The shop has become more than a place to buy inner tubes and helmets – it has become the center of a growing and very friendly biking community. Bike Newport co-sponsors lots of events, including the Coast Hills Classic mountain bike race in May and the Yaquina Lighthouse Century Rides in August, and holds a range of classes, including Yoga for Cyclists, Kickboxing, and Bike Repair. Check in with the crew there for information about hill time trials, group rides, and kids’ rides as well. Bike Newport is at 150 NW 6th Street in Newport, 541-265-9917, and bikenewport.com. The shop is open M-F 10-6, Sat 10-5, and summer Sundays 12-5.

The Yaquina Wheels Bicycle Club also sponsors group rides and other events. Check out their web site at www.yaquinawheels.org/, particularly for info on the Yaquina Lighthouse Century Rides.

28- www.oregoncoastpassport.com

541-867-FISH

aquarium.org

Pedal continued from page 28

City to City:

27 mi. RT. Moderately challenging, rolling terrain with a steep hill in either direction.

This is a beautiful ride along the Yaquina Bay and River and provides an excellent opportunity to see plenty of boats as well as shorebirds, waterfowl, wading birds, eagles, and ospreys. Wide shoulders and smooth pavement for most of the route.

South Beach Ride:

9 mi. RT. Easy ride, mostly flat.

This fun ride takes you through sand dunes to the South Beach Jetty, then winds its way through the South Beach Marina, along the estuary, and out to Idaho Point on King Slough. Great views and good bird watching.

30- www.oregoncoastpassport.com

Maps Courtesy of the City of Newport

une 13, 14 & 15, 2014

Lincoln County Fairgrounds ~ Newport, Oregon ~Live Celtic Music & Dance ~Friday Fringe Events ~Celtic Heritage Parade ~Welsh Skillet Toss ~Bonnie Knees Contest ~Celtic Fashion Show

~Authentic Celtic Food & Drink ~Haggis Eating Contest ~Sheepdog Herding Demos ~Celtic Arts & Crafts ~Kids Sports & Activities ~Scottish Highland Games

NewportCelticFestival.com

TOLEDO

Oil painting, “Tana C” (Toledo subject). Courtesy Michael Gibbons Gallery

Toledo: A Thriving Arts Scene on the Yaquina River

by Nancy Steinberg

M

aybe it’s the light: there’s no question that the sun shines more in Toledo than it does on the coast seven miles away.

Maybe it’s the Yaquina River, which wends its way through town, a gorgeous natural muse. Or maybe it’s the relatively low cost of living in this small mill/fishing/logging town. Something about Toledo, Oregon nurtures art and attracts artists, more of whom seem to move to town and set up their easels and studios every year.

It all started with landscape oil painter Michael Gibbons. Asked by a friend to look over the bones of the vicarage of the Episcopal Church in Toledo, which had been burned in a fire, to determine if it was worth remodeling, he surveyed the building, fell in love, and bought it himself that day. It was 1981 and Toledo was still mainly a logging and mill town; Gibbons was definitely a horse of a different color.

That was the germ of the Toledo Arts District not far from downtown that now includes Gibbons’ gallery and studio, the Yaquina River Art Museum, painter Ivan Kelly’s studio, rental spaces for artists, and much more. A recent visit with the Gibbonses revealed one wonder after another. The Vicarage, lovingly restored, is now the Gibbons’ home and gallery. Incredible art – Michael’s own as well as a lovingly-curated collection from all over the world – is everywhere. The inviting garden, which Judy tends herself, is full of charming nooks and crannies, as well as spectacular flowers and other plantings.

Gibbons paints en plein air, meaning in the great outdoors with his landscape subjects stretched out in front of him. But he still needs an indoor space in which to put the finishing touches on his canvases.

His studio, serene and filled with light, is across the street from The 32- www.oregoncoastpassport.com

Vicarage in a restored Methodist church. He and Judy also own and rent apartments here, including a short-term rental nestled in an inner courtyard specifically designed to be an artist’s retreat. It is referred to as the “J. P. Studio” because it was the office of the Justice of the Peace when Toledo was the county seat.

Toledo is muse to Gibbons as well as home. Many of his rich, evocative, light-filled oils take Toledo as their subject. “We who are fortunate enough to live in the Pacific Northwest, one of the most beautiful places on Earth, are blessed beyond measure,” he has written.

“The light, the palette of colors and the mystery are distinctive here.”

Gibbons founded and curates the Yaquina River Museum of Art, also across the street from The Vicarage. The museum has a small permanent collection which features a number of Gibbons’ works as well as works of Ivan Kelly, Bill Kucha, Marion Moir, Edward Young, Dee Boyles, and others. The thread that ties the works together is a connection to the land, water, and industry of the Yaquina River watershed. Rotating exhibits highlight pieces from the permanent collection as well as works of outside artists.

A few houses away from The Vicarage is the studio and gallery of Ivan Kelly, who came to Toledo in the mid-1990s from Canada. Kelly’s subjects include western and Pacific Northwest landscapes, as well as big game portraits. He is particularly drawn to the interplay of light and shadow which create the spectrum of moods found in the inspiring natural areas he loves so much. Kelly exhibits nationwide, and has won numerous awards for his works. In addition to his Toledo gallery, his works are currently on display at the Pacific Maritime Heritage Center

in Newport, traveling with a touring exhibit sponsored by the American Society of Marine Artists, and hanging in state Representative David Gomberg’s office in the Oregon State Capital.

The third founder of the Toledo arts scene is Douglas Haga, a painter, photographer, and print-maker. Haga came to the artist’s life via a circuitous route that included stints as a fisherman, soldier, logger, graphic designer, and short-order cook. He finds inspiration in the vistas of the Pacific Northwest, but also in surprising places like the vitriolic passion of a street preacher in San Francisco. His Black and Gold Series, painted with oversize brushes he makes himself, is particularly striking. The result is a stunning series of large pieces that resemble Zen calligraphy in shades of black, gold, and white.

Haga now exhibits and sells his work at SolaLuna Gallery on Toledo’s Main Street, as does his wife, Alice, a creative fused glass artist. Artists Sarah Gayle and Wayne Plourde opened SolaLuna about two years ago, and it has been growing, expanding, and changing ever since. The colorful storefront of the gallery on Main Street pulls visitors in. “Our goal is to make beautiful things available and affordable to everybody,” Gayle says. “We believe that art can be a part of your everyday life.”

Gayle herself seems to work in every conceivable medium in the gallery, from oils to needlework to clothing. Her latest work is a line of upcycled clothing dubbed the Troublemakers Trousseau.

Just a few doors down from SolaLuna, Gallery Briseño and the Toledo Arts Guild share a storefront. Sam Briseño is an accomplished sculptor who works in steel. His work ranges from graceful depictions of local marine life to more abstract sculptural pieces reminiscent of his roots as an industrial millwright. His artwork is not confined to the gallery; look for his benches scattered throughout Toledo, his twenty-one foot tall sculpture “The Ambassador” across from the Newport Performing Arts Center, and his large and life-like octopus gracing the entryway at the Hatfield Marine Science Center Visitor Center in South Beach.

The Toledo Arts Guild offers a way for Toledo-based artists to come together to respond to community projects (like designing a unique disc golf course behind the Toledo Public Library) and to offer educational programs, as they do at the local high school. Guild artists exhibit and sell their works in the storefront, including Scott Blackman (stunning coastal photography), Sandy Blackman (colorful fiber arts, particularly felted handbags), and Heather Fortner (fish prints done in the traditional Japanese gyotaku style). Deanne Dunlap, President of the Guild, says of the Toledo arts scene, “I think of Toledo as nurturing a ‘creative cluster’ which includes the Toledo Clayworks, the Bee Hive (an arts and crafts store), and other local businesses.”

A map and brochure, “Art in Toledo, Oregon,” available at the venues mentioned and elsewhere, points the way to the numerous other studios, galleries, and public art in Toledo. In addition to visiting any of these galleries and studios during their regular open hours, visitors have multiple opportunities to experience the entire Toledo arts scene at once with monthly “First Weekend” art walks and the annual Art Walk on Labor Day Weekend. On the first weekend of every month, galleries and studios throw open their doors with receptions and openings, usually organized around a theme or featuring particular artists. The annual Art Walk includes a Founders’ Show at the Toledo Public Library featuring works of the three founders of the event: Gibbons, Kelly, and Haga. More information about the monthly and annual walks is available at www.toledoarts.info.

Toledo’s artists have a range of reasons for coming to and staying in this small town. Gibbons says, “People who love the arts love an adventure,” leading them off the beaten path. Sarah Gayle cites the “unbelievably kind and generous people” she’s met in Toledo. As I left the sunny and warm downtown to head back into the fog bank enveloping Newport, I still think it could be the light.

When You Go:

Gallery Michael Gibbons/The Vicarage 140 NE Alder St., Toledo (541) 336-2797 www.michaelgibbons.net 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday to Saturday Noon to 6 p.m. Sunday

Yaquina River Museum of Art

151 NE Alder St., Toledo (541) 336-1907 www.michaelgibbons.net/museum.htm Noon to 4 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday

Ivan Kelly Gallery

207 E. Graham St., Toledo (541) 336-1124 www.ivankelly.com 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday 12:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday Or by chance or appointment

Gallery Briseño/Toledo Arts Guild

359 N. Main St., Toledo (541) 336-1315 lincolncountyculturalcoalition.org/directory/42-Sam-Briseno-andGallery-Briseno

SolaLuna Gallery Wildflowers at Yaquina Head: Michael Gibbons oil painting, credit Gallery Michael Gibbons

147 N. Main St., Toledo (541) 632-3236 www.solalunastudios.com 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday www.oregoncoastpassport.com 33

WALDPORT

Photo by Jo -Hanna Wienert

C

n o A y l a s l e P a e Ba om

T

the Heart of Waldport

by Nancy Steinberg

o the Alsi tribe, who lived along the Oregon coast between Seal Rock and Yachats as long as 8,000 years ago, the word “alsi” meant “peace.”

Peace still pervades the small coastal town of Waldport, 16 miles south of Newport, where the Alsi used to live. It weaves its way through the town and dominates its landscape in the form of the clear, cool, gorgeous, fish-laden Alsea River and pristine Alsea Bay, the centerpiece of Waldport.

Much of life in Waldport revolves around Alsea Bay and the critters that dwell there. Alsea Bay is an estuary, a place where the fresh water of a river meets and mixes with the salty sea. Estuaries are one of the most productive ecosystems on Earth, containing a vast diversity of plants and animals that are uniquely adapted to the brackish conditions there. The young life stages of many species, including most of the ones we love to eat, use estuaries as nursery areas, where the food is abundant, the conditions calm, and the hiding places plentiful. The wetlands that often fringe the shores of estuaries serve to filter out contaminants before they reach the ocean and protect the shoreline from flooding. So estuaries are impor-

y,

tant wherever they are found.

Alsea Bay, one of the most pristine estuaries on the Oregon coast, is no exception. Its habitats include extensive wetlands, mud flats, sandy shores, and even some rocky areas. The bay teems with life, much of it tasty and fun to harvest. Adult Chinook, coho, and chum salmon pass through on their way to upriver spawning sites, while the resultant babies use the estuary as a rest stop on their journey to the sea.

Dungeness crab creep and crawl across the bottom, while clams burrow into the sediment. River otters frolic upriver, and seals haul out on sandy spits in the bay itself. Bald eagles soar overhead. In fact, the bird life in Alsea Bay is so diverse and abundant that the bay has been designated by the National Audubon Society as an Important Bird Area, so make sure to bring your binoculars when you come.

One way to get an excellent introduction to some of the denizens of the bay, as well as instructions on how to harvest, clean, and cook them, is by attending a ranger talk at the Alsea Bay Historic Interpretive Center at the north end of the bridge in Waldport.

State Parks naturalist Cameron Rauenhorst, otherwise known as “Ranger Clameron,” demonstrates

Photo courtesy Port of Alsea

www.oregoncoastpassport.com 35

clamming, crabbing, and shrimping techniques at a very entertaining presentation on summertime Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays at 10:30 am. He explains the ins and outs of crabbing, clamming, collecting mussels, and shrimping (forget visions of a peel-and-eat dinner: ghost shrimp burrow in the sediments of the bay, and are used as bait). Then participants can follow him down to the shore and practice their clamming and shrimping techniques (adults need a shellfish license to keep their quarry $7 for an annual permit for Oregon residents, $20.50 for out-of-staters).

The Interpretive Center itself serves up the fascinating history of the Alsea Bay Bridge as well as other aspects of life in this part of Lincoln County.

The building also doubles as the Chamber of Commerce for the town, and the staff are very friendly and knowledgeable about everything Waldportian – go ahead, ask them anything!

Fishing in Alsea Bay is top-notch, particularly for Chinook salmon in the fall. Typically the salmon will congregate in the bay in late summer and early fall, moving upriver to begin their spawning migration with the first big rainfalls of the season. Bay fishing is best in September and October. Most bay fishermen find success trolling, while bait fishing and fly fishing are used more in the tidewater sections of the river. Sportfishing regulations for Alsea Bay (and everywhere else in the state) can be found on the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife’s web site (www.dfw.state.or.us/resources/fishing/index.asp).

If you want to try your hand at crabbing in one of the premiere spots in the state for catching these leggy critters, you can rent all the necessary equipment, including a boat, at Dock of the Bay Marina near the Port of Alsea. A 15-ft. boat, three crab rings, bait, and a crab measurer will run you $80 for the day.

They’ll even cook your crabs for you. You can launch your own boat, motored or motorless, at the Port of Alsea’s boat launch. Just be cautious when boating in the bay: watch the tides so you don’t get stuck on a sand bar, and stay away from the turbulent “jaws” at the mouth of the bay.

One of the best ways to get up close and personal with the bay and its inhabitants is by coming down to their level in a kayak. Silent and low to the water, kayaking is easy to learn in the still waters of the bay, and can take you to backwaters where power boats

36- www.oregoncoastpassport.com

can’t go. A unique kayak tour and rental company, the Kayak Shack, is operated jointly by the Port of Alsea and Waldport High School right next to the launch site at the Port of Alsea. The business, open in the summertime and fall weekends, is operated by the school’s Entrepreneurship class members.

These students operate most aspects of the business, including giving paddling tours of Lint Slough not far from the launch site. Guided tours, coordinated with the tides to make padding easier, are about two and a half hours in length. Participants receive basic paddling instruction, the tour, and time to paddle on their own.

With so much to do in Alsea Bay, it might be tempting to cram it all in. Better to take it slow, spend a few days, and find that peace that the bay promises.

When you go: Alsea Bay Historic Interpretive Center

620 NW Spring St., Waldport (541) 563-2133 www.oregonstateparks.org/index.cfm?do=parkPage. dsp_parkPage&parkId=143 9 am to 5 pm daily

Port of Alsea

Picnic tables, boat launches 365-A Port St., Waldport (541) 563-3872 www.portofalsea.com

Dock of the Bay Marina 1245 Mill St., Waldport (541) 563-2003 www.peak.org/~liteons13

Kayak Shack

365-B Port St., Waldport (541) 563-4445 www.whskayakshack.com 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday – Sunday Tours and kayak rentals daily; call for reservations and times

Photo courtesy Port of Alsea

LittLe Creek ApArtments

Central Oregon Coast Golf at

365 n.e. 36th Street • Newport, OR 97365

• 2 Bed/ 1 Bath • 3 Bed/ 2 Bath • 2 Play Areas

• On-site laundry facilities • Public Transportation

Call 541-265-2663 Professionally managed by sima management, inc.

Waldport Realty Co. Hwy 101 & Willow Street P.O. Box 847 / Waldport, OR 97394

Charlie Tabasko, GRI Broker-Yachats to Newport

Office: 541-563-3233 Cell: 541-961-5758 Fax: 541-563-5649 Toll Free: 888-925-37778 Home: 541-547-4219 E-Mail: ctabasko@peak.org Website: www.sincerelyonthecoast.com

Located in the spectacular Central Oregon Coast golf community of Waldport, Crestview Golf Club is a beautiful, scenic 9-hole course with a friendly, family atmosphere. This Waldport golf course has four tee options and exceptional Greens with unique challenges that will appeal to all levels of ability. Crestview is easy to walk, is playable year-round and open from dawn to dusk.

Crestview offers golf shirts and hats as a wonderful way to remember your visit to the Central Oregon Coast golf community. We always carry a complete line of accessories, apparel and other golf merchandise to compliment your game of golf.

We also offer: Convenient Day-Use RV Parking Seasonal Cafe & Bar Patio Dining Pro Shop

Club Rentals Pro Available for Lessons Leagues and Tournaments

Greenside Restaurant and Bar operates under Seasonal hours.

We open May through October . Lunch is served Tuesday through Sunday 11:00 til 3:00. Breakfast and Lunch is served Sunday 9:00 til 3:00. Dinners are served Tuesday, Friday and Saturday 4:30 til 8:00.

Sit on the patio, watch the sunset while enjoying a glass of wine or cocktails and sample the Appetizer menu. Ask our staff about our "Nine~Wine~Dine" Special.

As always, we remain available during the off season for private functions.

Don't forget to consider the facilities at Greenside for your special occasions. We have hosted Birthday parties, Anniversaries, Class Reunions and Special Family celebrations.

View Lots Available 1680 Crestline Drive, Waldport 541-563-3020 Check our website specials at www.CrestviewGolfClub.com

YACHATS

Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert

GO to TOWN in YACHATS Treasures, treats, and trophies await in this quaint downtown

by Nancy Steinberg

A

t the risk of repeating a coastal cliché, it must be said: Yachats is a gem of a town. Perched on the edge of a stretch of coast that is, in turns, idyllic and tempestuous, this town of less than 700 souls oozes charm and friendliness, evident in every one of its independent and sometimes-quirky downtown businesses. Spend a day downtown exploring the unique shops and astonishing array of excellent restaurants. Here’s a guide to just some of what you will find, morning, noon, and night, in town.

MORNING

Start your day off right with breakfast at the Green Salmon Coffee House, where the food is top-notch and the ethos is all about living lightly on the Earth. Their range of fair trade, organic coffees, teas, and cocoas are just the thing to get you moving. My personal favorite on their extensive drink menu is the Coconut Crackout Mocha made with steamed coconut milk, but I’ve got a list I’m waiting to try, including the Kopi Jahe (ginger coffee with steamed light cream) and the Earl Grey Cocoa (cocoa infused with black tea and bergamot). All the food is also organic, and many of the ingredients are local. One of the best deals in town is the $10 bagel and lox plate, which comes with a generous portion of chive cream cheese, thick slices of lox, and tomato, lettuce, onion, and capers. The pastries are flaky and sublime, from the cheese Danish to the marionberry blueberry bear claws. If you come back for lunch, the options include the Sacred Cow, a vegan answer to the Reuben sandwich (tempeh!); soup specials; Caesar salad; the ALT (another vegan option: avocado, lettuce, and tomato); and more.

You can also purchase loose teas here from their extensive offerings.

To walk off your chocolate croissant, you might walk the Historic 804 trail, a flat and easy stroll along the water that extends from the sandy beach at the north end of town to Smelt Sands State Park and Yachats State Park.

Treasures abound in the small shops of Yachats. Toad Hall is the oldest shop in town. Valeria (“No last name necessary – it’s a really long Italian name!” she said, laughing) has owned and operated the gift and card shop off the main drag since 1988. “We have the best selection of greeting cards on the Oregon coast,” she exclaimed. As if to prove her point, at that moment a woman walked in and asked for a birthday card for a four-year old. “I’ve got just what you need. Follow me,” Valeria said. The shop is also chock-full of silver earrings, candles, gorgeous Art Deco-style lamps, blank journals, and delicate glassware.

Next stop: Planet Yachats (which has recently expanded to two California locations, each still called, interestingly, Planet Yachats), where the gems of the Gem of the Oregon Coast can be found. This mineral and fossil shop showcases items gathered world-wide, from Madagascar to Australia, from China to Brazil. The shop carries 40- www.oregoncoastpassport.com

minerals in every color of the rainbow, carvings made from a range of stones, sharks teeth, ammonites, and stunning jewelry. An amethyst geode in one corner is almost as tall as I am, studded with purple sparkling crystals. A Mosasaur skull rests on another shelf, a remnant of an animal that patrolled the seas at least 65 million years ago. “I always ask children who come in if they want to hold a meteorite.

They are thrilled to touch something that came from outer space,” said saleswoman Mary Crook. I almost asked her if I could hold the meteorite too but I refrained.

While most fly fishers wade into the cold, clear rivers of the northwest to try their luck, a small subset prefer the tougher task of fly-fishing in salt water. Daniel Serbu, the owner of the Dublin House Motel, is one of these rare birds. In the lobby of the motel, he displays his extensive collection of massive, hand-tied saltwater flies, many of which he has used in Florida waters. One sports a hook large enough to catch a shark. Another incorporates bright peacock tail feathers. He sells saltwater flies in the small fly shop here, and offers lessons and fly-fishing trips.

NOON

Hungry? The number of excellent restaurants per capita in Yachats is truly amazing, so there’s no shortage of options. One great lunch spot is Ona, right at the mouth of the tiny estuary where the Yachats River meets the ocean. The Lucky Lunch special is a bargain – seven dishes for $7 apiece, including a warm steak salad with miso ginger dressing, rockfish and chips with Asian slaw (fish: perfectly cooked, chips: Photo courtesy The Green Salmon crispy and satisfying), and grilled chicken or veggies over pasta with alfredo or marinara sauce. A recent lunch special, teriyaki salmon over buckwheat noodles, was generous and delicious. Ona also holds Happier Hours: Their Happy Hour menu runs all day on Mondays and Thursdays. With purchase of a $4 Happy Hour drink special, you can order their food specials, ranging from $1 oyster shooters to $7 tempura prawns with a choice of dipping sauces.

There are more treasures to find in the shops of downtown, so after fortification, head back to the teeny, tiny Judith’s Kitchen Tools just a few doors down from Planet Yachats. The collection of gadgets, cookbooks, and kitchenware owner Judith MacDonald has managed to fit into 131 square feet is phenomenal. One of her best-sellers is the ingenious Supoon, a clever silicone spoon that scoops, measures, stirs, and scrapes, and sits up off the counter to reduce mess. She also pointed out the award-winning Garlic Twist for mincing garlic in a jiffy, and the Recipe Rock for holding, what else, recipes.

If you find your strength flagging, check out Bread & Roses for a delicious cup of coffee (they serve Cafeto Coffee, roasted in Eugene) and a pastry. Their rotating menu always includes cookies, muffins, breads, and cupcakes. I tried an unbelievable treat: a champagne cupcake with lingonberries, lemon curd, and Swiss meringue – light and not-too-

sweet but sweet enough to keep me going. Bread & Roses is happy to fulfill special orders, and their bread is available at the Yachats Farm Store on the east side of Hwy 101.

If all of the organic food you’ve been eating all day has inspired you to nurture your own organic garden, head to the Yachats Farm Store for all you need to grow your own, or even make your own cheese and fermented foods like sauerkraut. All stages of plants are available here, from seeds to starts to harvested organic vegetables to prepared foods.

Try their house-fermented sauerkrauts, or their salad offerings (potato salad, quinoa tabouli). They also have a bar offering a range of craft brews, and occasional live music.

NIGHT

The dinner options in downtown Yachats are numerous, ranging from gathering picnic fixings at C&K Market and driving up to the top of Cape Perpetua to fine dining at a number of spots. One of the best is the historic Drift Inn, which offers a wide range of Northwest cuisine, some with an international twist, as well as live music every night.

Perennial favorites here include the spicy yam empanadas appetizer, served with a sweet chili sauce; the wild salmon served with a berry hazelnut or sorrel cream sauce; their twist on a seafood stew with a base of coconut broth, and the Persian rice bowl (caramelized onions, spinach, eggplant, pears, almonds, coconut and raisins in a mild curry sauce) with a choice of tempeh, chicken, halibut, shrimp, or steak. The menu includes many vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options.

The most recent addition to the Yachats fine dining scene is Alder Bistro and Dispensary Lounge, in the building where La Serre used to be. Open only since spring 2014, Alder Bistro is already garnering rave reviews for its Northwest cuisine with a southern flair. Like most places in Yachats, the emphasis is on locally-sourced, organic ingredients.

Small plates include clams in puff pastry and a spinach, artichoke, and roasted poblano dip. For entrees, try the granola-encrusted rack of lamb or the coastal version of a pot pie, containing salmon, rockfish, shrimp, crab, and vegetables.

Even if you follow this guide to the letter, you will have missed lots of what downtown Yachats has to offer. Perhaps you’d better start planning your next trip here before you leave.

When You Go Green Salmon Coffee House 220 Hwy 101 (541) 547-3077 www.thegreensalmon.com

Toad Hall

237 W. 3rd St. (541) 547-4044

Planet Yachats

281 Hwy 101 (541) 547-4410 www.planetyachats.net

Dublin House Motel

Hwy 101 & 7th St. (541) 547-3703 www.dublinhousemotel.com

Ona

131 Hwy 101 (541) 547-6627 www.onarestaurant.com

Judith’s Kitchen Tools 261 Hwy 101 (541) 547-3020

Bread & Roses Bakery 238 4th St. (541) 547-4454

Yachats Farm Store

348 Hwy 101 (541) 547-3884 www.yachatsfarmstore.com

C&K Market

231 Hwy 101 (541) 547-4561 www.myckm.com

Drift Inn

124 Hwy 101 (541) 547-4477 www.the-drift-inn.com

Alder Bistro & Dispensary Lounge 160 W. 2nd St. (541) 547-3420 alderbistro.com

There’s more to love in Yachats as well, from ice cream to hardware, from books to pottery, from seafood to candles to tattoos. For a complete list of Yachats businesses, see www.yachats.org.

Photo by Jo-Hanna Wienert

www.oregoncoastpassport.com 41

LINCOLN COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM The Society focuses on the same goals stablished early by its members: to preserve, publish, and educate. The Society maintains two historic structures, the Burrows House and a site on Newport’s historic Bayfront slated to become the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center, as well as the Log Cabin Museum. It also maintains the CV Tradewinds Kingfisher, Stan Allyn’s charter boat, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. The Society preserves the state’s largest collection of artifacts from Oregon’s central coast. For more information viist http:// www.oregoncoast.history.museum/index.html or call 541-265-7509 DEVILS PUNCH BOWL STATE NATURAL AREA Surfers and surf watchers energize this area! During winter storms, water from the restless ocean slams with a thundering roar into a hollow rock formation shaped like a huge punch bowl. The surf churns, foams, and swirls as it mixes a violent brew. The punch bowl was probably created by the collapse of the roof over two sea caves, then shaped by wave action. The park is a popular whale watching site and displays an intriguing geology. This is a scenic picnic spot atop the undulating rocky shoreline. Don’t forget to explore the tidepools.

There is no fee to use this park. For information, call 1-800-551-6949.

CLIMB THE LIGHTHOUSE YAQUINA HEAD Have you ever climbed the stairs of a lighthouse? Wondered what it was like to be a lighthouse keeper? Viewed a working lens? We invite you to visit Yaquina Head Lighthouse, where these questions and more will be answered, as you tour this historic structure.

The 93 foot tower, Oregon’s tallest, is located on a narrow point of land jutting due west into the Pacific Ocean north of Newport, at Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area. Winds and rain have buffeted this lighthouse since its beginning in 1872. It took approximately one year, and over 370,000 bricks to construct Oregon’s tallest lighthouse.

The light has been active since Head Keeper Fayette Crosby walked up the 114 steps, to light the wicks on the evening of August 20, 1873.

At that time the oil burning fixed white light was displayed from sunset to sunrise. Today, the fully automated first order Fresnel lens runs on commercial power and flashes its unique pattern of 2 seconds on, 2 seconds off, 2 seconds on, 14 seconds off, 24 hours a day. The oil burning wicks have been replaced with a 1000 watt globe.

The nightly vigil of watching the light is gone as are the resident keepers and their quarters, but the staff of the Bureau of Land Management, who are now responsible for the tower, guide you through the lighthouse with tales of yesteryear. For more information call 541-574-3100 for Park Hours and Tours. or 541-574-3100 for Interpretive Store.

WHALE WATCHING DEPOE BAY Oregon Parks and Recreation Department park rangers are ready at the Whale Watching Center in Depoe Bay to answer your questions and help you find whales to watch. Located on U.S. 101 along the seawall in scenic Depoe Bay, the center is a perfect spot for visitors to locate and watch whales as they blow, dive, spyhop and breach.

Whale watching takes place almost year-round on the Oregon Coast.

We watch whales in the winter from mid-December through January.

Spring watching begins in March with a peak in numbers the last week and finishes in June with mothers and babies being the last whales traveling north. Summer brings whales that feed along our coast from July to mid-November. Located in Depoe Bay on Highway 101. Summer Season: Memorial Day - Labor Day 9 a.m. - 5 p.m., Daily, Discovery Season: October- May 10 a.m. - 4 p.m., Wednesday - Sunday. For more

information contact 541-765-3304 SEE THE SPOUTING HORNS DEPOE BAY Depending on tidal conditions, visitors can watch and sometimes be drenched by the famous spouting horns that shoot geysers of salt water into the air, yards away from Highway 101. Depoe Bay is two hours from Portland, Oregon and the Portland International Airport.

GO TIDE POOLING Before you go see pages 28-31 about tidepooling in the Yachats.

VISIT THE HOME OF A SEA LION Sea Lion Caves is nature’s home for wild sea lions and a variety of sea birds. Sea Lion Caves is located 11 miles North of Florence on the Oregon Coast.

The vast cavern with the roar of the great Steller sea lions, the cries of the wailing birds, and the restless surge of the ocean into the cave below, form an unforgettable experience. For more information visit www. sealioncaves.com or call 541-547-3111.

LEARN ABOUT MARINE LIFE Located on Yaquina Bay in Newport, Oregon, the Visitor Center is the public wing of Oregon State University’s Mark O. Hatfield Marine Science Center and is managed by Oregon Sea Grant. We’re open yearround and admission is by donation.

Exhibits feature live marine animals, interactive puzzles and games that demonstrate marine science concepts and other aspects of our amazing ocean planet. Trained volunteers are happy to answer your questions, and our bookstore offers books, videos and games. For more information visit http://hmsc.oregonstate.edu/visitor/visit or call VISIT THE OREGON COAST AQUARIUM Passages of the Deep: The Aquarium’s Passages of the Deep exhibit allows the visitor to literally immerse themselves in the ocean realm that exists right off the Oregon coast. A series of underwater walkways leads the visitor from the dark, quiet canyons of the Orford Reef, through the sparkling and teeming waters of Halibut Flats, and finally into the vast blue expanse of the Open Sea. As you pass through these three ecosystems, you symbolically move further into the Pacific Ocean, encountering vastly different animals along the way.

Orford Reef: Located just offshore near Point Blanco, Orford Reef is a cluster of submerged haystack rock formations, only the tops of which are visible above water. Beneath the waves, the areas between these rocks form a deep reef of narrow crevasses and swaying forests of bull kelp which can reach lengths up to 100 feet (30 meters.) Far below the kelp forest, the reef provides a natural shelter from the weather and wave action, creating a stable refuge for a variety of species. One of the most predominant fish in the Orford Reef is the Rockfish, of which there are sixty different species in the Pacific Ocean. These predatory fish will often hang suspended in the still waters or hide among the drifting kelp as they stalk their unsuspecting prey.

Halibut Flats: The stormy Oregon coast is often known as the “Graveyard of the Pacific” and here is proof. In Halibut Flats, ocean life finds shelter among the sunken skeleton of a long-forgotten ship. There’s more sunlight in Halibut Flats than there was in the narrow canyons or Orford Reef and the animals are more active. In ecosystems like this one, a tremendous number of interconnected species form a vibrant underwater community. Aside from the sturgeon, lingcod, halibut and flounder that constantly patrol the shipwreck, the sandy ocean floor is a resting ground for skates, a disk-shaped species of fish related to sharks and rays. You may have to look carefully, however, as the skates’ mottled coloring is the perfect camouflage for this region of dappled sunlight.

Open Sea: The longest tunnel in Passages of the Deep also represents the world’s largest environment – the Open Sea. There are no towering kelp forests or narrow rocky channels here… just water as far as the eye can see. Most of the species represented in this exhibit live in the upper strata of water, commonly referred to as the Sunlit Zone. This area is alive with five species of shark, huge bat rays and great schools of anchovy and mackerel. The sharks are particularly popular with Aquarium visitors and all our species are native to Oregon coastal waters, including our largest specimen, the Broadnose Sevengill Shark.

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RESORT

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800-522-3623 www.adoberesort.com

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oceanfront homes on the oregon coast In the village of Yachats New beach homes from $395k www.KOHOoregon.com 541.547.3312

FLORENCE

Photo courtesy of Digital Dunes Photography

Photo courtesy of Digital Dunes Photography

Visit Florence on the Oregon Coast “Come See What We See!”

By Cal Applebee, Executive Director, Florence Area Chamber of Commerce

T

he Florence community invites you to “Come See What We See!”. Why do we so invite?

Because we have so much to see and do when you journey to the Oregon Coast. Whether you like to enjoy nature’s quiet solitude, experience fine dining & entertainment, play a round of world-class golf, or seek adventure of a higher order, we have it all here.

You can explore Florence by hiking over a dozen trails along creeks, lakes or dunes to enjoy the breath-taking beauty of the nature that surrounds us. No visit to the Oregon coast would be complete without a visit to the world famous Sea Lion Caves just north of Florence. Not only is it a world famous destination attraction, it is also the world’s largest sea cave, home of Steller sea lions. Choose adventure on the high seas of the great Pacific Ocean or navigate the waters of the Siuslaw River, as well as nearly 20 lakes of all sizes and enjoy by paddling a kayak or canoe, crabbing, fishing from a commercial fishing vessel, or cruise the scenic Siuslaw on a pontoon boat. But if your sense of adventure is on the dryer side, you might seek thrills on the massive Oregon dunes riding a dune buggy or quad – and if you’re really adventurous test your skill on a sand board at the world’s first sand park.

If you seek thrills at higher altitude, check out the scenic aerial tours available at the Florence Municipal Airport where you can choose between the serenity of flight in a helicopter, or experience thrilling flight in the WWII Stearman biplane of AeroLegends.

46- www.oregoncoastpassport.com

If you prefer a more formal outdoor experience, grab your clubs and visit our two outstanding worldclass golf courses, Sandpines Golf Links - nestled amidst wind-swept sand dunes and towering pines - a breathtaking location for coastal golf, or Ocean Dunes Golf Links - a truly unique, challenging and fun golfing experience.

Is nightlife your choice? Three Rivers Casino and Hotel offers lively entertainment year-round, as does the Florence Events Center with music, plays and arts of all sorts. You can check out all the local night spots in Historic Old Town as well!

And while visiting Historic Old Town, be sure to check out all the quaint shops and extensive & tasty dining choices at your beck and call such as Spice or the Bridgewater. Or you can choose to dine while watching ocean waves roll onto the beach at Driftwood Shores Resort. And don’t forget to visit our antiques district for that special treasure!

So I hope you can see that when we invite you to “Come See What We See!”, it’s not just a hollow statement – we really do have it all in Florence on the Oregon Coast, and we invite you to come experience it for yourself. You can start your adventure right from your computer by taking an aerial virtual tour on our website, www.florencechamber.com. Click on the naviFUN image at the bottom of our home page; use your mouse to shift the direction of the camera as you fly over Florence – we know you’ll like what you see!

RESTAURANT

NEWPORT

Oceanfront Dining

Our friendly, professional staff provides the service you deserve. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and happy hour cocktails to enjoy while watching the gorgeous sunset.

WE ALSO OFFER CATERING SERVICES AND THE LARGEST EVENT SPACE IN TOWN.

541.265.2449

Photo courtesy of Digital Dunes Photography

536 SW Elizabeth St. Newport OR ShiloNewportRestaurant.com

Open 7 days a week

Mon-Sat 9am - 7pm, Sun 10am - 6pm

Your Pet’s Favorite Store - Paws Down ALL PETS WELCOME!

We have a complete selection of food & supplies for your: Dogs • Cats • Birds • Fish • Reptiles • Small Animals • Rodents

Our premium food brands include: • Canidae • Diamond • Nutro • Science Diet • Eukanuba • Friskies • Nature’s Recipe

• Whiskas • Pro Plan • Avoderm • Pinnacle • Chicken Soup • Taste of the Wild

• Evolve • Fromm • Natural Balance • Pedigree • Go! • Now! • Triumph

Our products and services include: • Supplements • Health Care • Vitamins • Medications • Pet Books • Toys • Carriers

• Cages • Furniture • Beds • Home Care Products • Premium Brands

• Specialty Products • Grooming • Special Orders Where Possible

Visit our other great coastal locations: 1740 N. Coast Hwy. Newport, OR 97365 541-265-8355

1450 NE Hwy 101 Lincoln City, OR 97367 541-557-1911

2630 Hwy 101 Florence, OR 97439 541-997-7035

1609 Virginia Ave. North Bend, OR 97459 541-756-1562

Visit our other great locations: Bend, Eugene, Grants Pass, Medfod, Roseburg, and Springfield locations!