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SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE FALL/WINTER 2019-20

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SN&R SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE FALL/WINTER 2019-20

PU BLI S H E R

Jeff vonKaenel E D IT OR

Thea Marie Rood D E S IG N E R

Serene Lusano

A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR

On the cover: Koshi Ramen Bar Photo by ANNE STOKES

PH O TO E D I T OR

Anne Stokes WRIT E R S

Raul Clement, Matt Craggs, Reid Fowler, Thea Marie Rood, Nisa Smith, Kathleen Vivaldi PH O TO GR AP H E R

Reid Fowler, Anne Stokes SA LE S D I R E C T OR

Michael Gelbman S A LE S CO OR D I N AT OR

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T

his is the first issue of Indulge that includes Biba Ristorante Italiano—by anyone’s estimation, one of the finest restaurants in Sacramento, in California, in the country. Many people credit this restaurant, and its indelible owner, Biba Caggiano, with creating the farm-to-fork movement in Northern California, along with other culinary heavyweights like Alice Waters in Berkeley.

Like Waters, Caggiano didn’t train at a prestigious culinary institute, and her restaurant is surprisingly— and deliberately—unpretentious and unintimidating.

The food—also like Chez Panisse—tastes like food you ate as a child, at your grandmother’s table, and learned to cook from recipes handed down in your own family.

“Our food is meant to inspire memories because that is what Biba wanted to share with people,” says Karel Mulac, executive chef. “People are invited to taste at the restaurant and encouraged to replicate at home.”

While we mourn Caggiano’s recent passing— along with the rest of the food world—we hope to honor her in this issue of Indulge. Not just by covering her restaurant, but by shining a light on other extremely talented local chefs and restaurant owners, many of whom were inspired by the locally sourced, farm-fresh cooking here—Caggiano’s legacy.

Another tenant of Caggiano’s food philosophy is seasonal eating—and fall and winter are a perfect time to explore Sacramento’s burgeoning restaurant scene, ducking into a well-lighted, cozy spot for warm bourbon-based drinks and comfort food. There are also holiday parties to plan, and we offer a wealth of choices where you can throw one—not to mention the many chefs who will happily help you cater an event at home.

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2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

Biba Caggiano Photo by RON SCHWAGER

Finally, it is of course a busy time of year, and what could be more pleasant than skipping the chore of dinner, and picking up some fried chicken, pizzas, hot ramen or (plant-based) burgers for your hungry crowd, home for the holidays.

We are excited to bring you all these ideas and recommendations. And we are even more honored to remember Biba Caggiano. Buon appetito!

THEA MARIE ROOD

Editor, Indulge

JAN 15-26, 2020

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BIBA RISTORANTE ITALIANO P AGE 1 0

BOEGER WINERY

index BURGER PATCH PAGE 12

P AGE 1 1

CAPITOL CASINO CAFÉ

CREST CAFE PAGE 14

P AGE 1 3

CULINERDY KITCHEN

ETTORE’S BAKERY AND RESTAURANT

P AGE 1 5

PAGE 16

HOPPY’S RAILYARD KITCHEN & HOPGARDEN

HOUSE KITCHEN & BAR

P AGE 1 7

PAGE 18

INK EATS AND DRINKS

JALAPEÑOS RESTAURANT

P AGE 1 9

PAGE 20

KOSHI RAMEN BAR

KIKI’S CHICKEN PLACE

P AGE 2 1

PAGE 22

KUJI ASIAN GRILL

PIZZA ROCK PAGE 24

P AGE 2 3

THAI CANTEEN P AGE 2 5

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VAIANO TRATTORIA

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

PAGE 26

Below: Kuji Asian Grill Photo by ANNE STOKES

BIBA RISTORANTE ITALIANO Make—and honor—some memories at this iconic Sacramento restaurant

W

VIB E

Welcoming and warm, like coming to a lovely home P E R FEC T F O R

A robust Midtown happy hour, a romantic dinner or a special family celebration A SK A B O UT

The live piano music in the bar C UISIN E C O ST

Drinks: $6.50 (cocktails and by the glass) Bottles: $23-$220 Food: $3-$42 LO C A T IO N

2801 Capital Ave., Sacramento CONTACT

916-455-2422, biba-restaurant.com

Photos by ANNE STOKES

By THEA MARIE ROOD

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2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

hen I told people I was going to Biba’s for Indulge, there were two reactions. Either people said wistfully, “Oh, I’ve never been there—tell me what it’s like when you get back.” Or people said equally wistfully, “Oh, Biba’s, I remember the time we went…”

Whichever camp you fall into, make reservations this fall—and go.

Biba Caggiano’s presence is still readily felt, from the clever caricature in the entryway, to the life-size colorful painting in the swanky turquoise-and-dark-wood bar, to the homey table stacked with her cookbooks for sale. It’s also evident in her elegant paleyellow dining room and the striped banquettes that encourage mingling between diners. But you feel it most in her warm-hearted staff, who bring you plates of food based on her recipes, so you are still tasting that fresh, simplified cooking that Caggiano did so naturally, yet put Sacramento—and this restaurant— on the culinary map.

“Her influence can be seen all over town with the farm-to-fork movement,” says executive chef Karel Mulac. “She was always farm-to-fork, only using quality ingredients from local sources. We source as much as we can from our local farmers.”

This means the menus are always seasonal—effortlessly so—and for fall, a good starter is the smoked salmon crepes, which have beautiful thin layers of savory crepe, flavorful but not overpowering salmon, and

a buttermilk and mascarpone dill sauce that pulls it all together into a perfectly balanced, delightful dish. Pair it with a Maker’s Mark Manhattan, the bar’s most popular drink any time of year, but the smoky warmth is especially good to drink now. (And that is no ordinary cocktail garnish; it’s a dark cherry saturated in brandy.)

Next, try the shrimp cavatelli with mussels, served in a big white bowl. You will love the freshness of the seafood, but will think about the house-made pasta long after you eat it. Tender but still with a bite, it stands up to the hearty toppings, while the mild tomato sauce lets its rich, eggy flavor shine.

For an autumn entrée, nothing beats the pork tenderloin and scalloped potatoes. The pork comes beautifully arranged in thin mediumrare medallions with delicately crunchy edges. But again, it is the potatoes you remember: Like the crepes, they are layered—this time with cream, butter and ParmigianoReggiano—and piled up into a tower of goodness you will want to learn to make at home. (Many items on the fall menu include page number references to Biba’s cookbooks.)

Finally, your meal isn’t complete without a slice of cheesecake, which arrives as a piece of art with swirls of dark chocolate. The balanced flavors of the graham-cracker crust, fresh blackberries and cream-cheese filling result in a dish that is rich, satisfying and—like Biba herself— unforgettable. ●

BOEGER WINERY

Photos by ANNE STOKES

By KATHLEEN VIVALDI

Bottled tradition to enjoy this fall

L

ess than an hour east of downtown Sacramento, in autumn-hued Apple Hill, is Boeger Winery. This beautiful Placerville estate sits on one of the most historic vineyard sites in El Dorado County.

It was established as a fruit and nut stand—and later a winery and distillery—during the Gold Rush, when the Fossati-Lombardo family came to realize there was more money to be made from selling goods and supplies to miners than actually panning for gold.

Fast forward more than 100 years to 1972, when Greg Boeger bought the property and turned it into the first modern-day, post-prohibition winery in the county. Fourthgeneration winemaker and Greg’s son, Justin Boeger, now runs it, further confirming his father’s motto about the family’s winemaking heritage: “It is literally in our blood.”

As fall arrives, with crisp mornings and chilled evenings, winding into the Boeger estate, looking over the rolling hills filled with grapevines, you’ll feel like you’re in Old World Italy. Step into Boeger’s hospitable tasting room, where you’re greeted like family.

And there is much to see, do and choose from at this time of year.

For example, every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, Boeger offers tours and you can sip and stroll throughout the estate. There are even private seated tastings in the original cellar built in 1872, where you can warm up by the fire.

Boeger also offers Wine and Wellness classes regularly, which allow you to move the body, rest the mind, nibble and sip to recharge and rejuvenate the soul on this gorgeous

VI BE

Like you’re on vacation in the Tuscan countryside PERFECT FOR

rural property. Breathe in the fresh air and listen to the fall leaves rustling in the trees.

Or attend Boeger’s Annual Holiday Sampler on Nov. 23, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. New wine releases, food and vendors with holiday wares are offered at this ticketed event in Boeger’s historic cellar.

As for what to taste, on a stillwarm fall day, sip on the 2017 Pinot Gris, which won a gold medal at the El Dorado and Orange county fairs and earned 90 points from Wine Enthusiast. Additional whites and rosés include the Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grande and Pinot Noir Rosé, all fresh, lively and crisp.

On cool days, when cozying up by a fire in your favorite sweater is in order, sip Boeger’s flagship Barbera. Taste the ripe red fruits of cherry and currant with very soft tannins and a smooth finish.

Additional full-bodied reds include the Primitivo, a double gold winner at the El Dorado County Fair, and the 2016 Zinfandel, which also won a gold medal at North of the Gate/ Sonoma Fair.

Bundle up and enjoy the seasonal delights at Boeger. ●

Taking a break from the daily urban grind AS K ABOU T

Fall dishes to pair perfectly with the bottles you take home L I BATI ON COS T

Bottles: $12-$49 Cases: $144-$184 L OCATI ON

1709 Carson Road, Placerville CONTACT

530-622-8094, boegerwinery.com

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

11

Photos by ANNE STOKES

By NISA SMITH

BURGER PATCH ‘Convenient consciousness’ suits everyone’s tastes

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V IB E

A nostalgic burger stand with a modern, healthy twist PE RF E C T F OR

Bringing a crowd for lunch— and knowing everyone will find something fun to order A S K AB OUT

The fall Apple-Pie Earth Quake Shake CU IS INE C OS T

Drinks $2.90-$5.90 Food $2.90-$12.50 LO CAT I ON

2301 K St., Sacramento CO NT AC T

916-750-4200, theburgerpatch.com

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ith a cheery staff, a signature sauce and a whimsical logo, Burger Patch delivers the quintessential fast-food experience to Downtown Sacramento.

Featuring a 100% plant-based menu, Burger Patch puts a mindful spin on the American staple.

As customers step into the cozy wood-accented space, murmurs of “Have you been here before?

What do you suggest?” are heard up and down the customer line.

Meanwhile, the staff greets some with “Welcome in!” and makes air horn sounds for others—a celebratory indication of someone’s first Burger Patch visit. The playful environment mimics that of your favorite childhood burger spot, as do the flavors of the simple yet enticing menu.

Co-owner Phil Horn says the menu “will send a message of familiarity...Vegans and non-vegans alike, it’s something approachable for them.”

Dive right into the comforting cuisine with the BBQ Patch Burger.

A Beyond Beef patty is sandwiched between locally-sourced Truckee Sourdough Company buns, while melted cheese rests atop the patty alongside sweet grilled onions.

The addition of “hickory smoked strips”—plant-based bacon—and a coral-colored, house-made sauce, dripping from both buns, supplies the smokiness necessary for any barbecue entree.

A good burger without fries to match is a mistake. A mistake that Burger Patch does not make— generously tossed in a dried herb mixture and salt after leaving the fryer in crisp shoestring perfection, a Shovel of Spuds puts oil-soaked limp fries to shame.

Scan #patchsecretmenu on Instagram and uncover the variety of

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

loaded spuds that demand the approval of all taste buds. Featuring grilled onions and the signature pink Patch Sauce on some and the combination of herb-rich ranch and crumbled Beyond Beef on others, the concoctions are limitless—and irresistible.

Spuds aren’t the only item on the secret menu. Variations of the Patch Burger and Earth Quake Shake are available as well. With regard to the latter, standard flavor offerings of vanilla bean and chocolate can be combined, adorned with chunks of salted chocolate chip cookies or turned into a root beer float. Whatever is decided, the combination of cashew, almond and soy milk creates the desired thick consistency and a subtle nuttiness for depth that is sure to round out any Burger Patch meal.

Between the thrill of the secret menu and the classic taste found

in the Patch Burger and Shovel of Spuds, “plant-based eating doesn’t have to be what people traditionally think,” says co-owner Danea Horn.

“You can still have that craveable, indulgent meal.”

In alignment with the Burger Patch “convenient consciousness” initiative, that indulgent meal is always served in compostable or recyclable packaging. The Horns hope Burger Patch exemplifies that planetary kindness and satisfying dining do not have to be mutually exclusive. ●

Photos by ANNE STOKES

By MATT CRAGGS

CAPITOL CASINO CAFÉ Hearty dishes and great service make for a full house—pun intended

N

estled in Capitol Casino on the edge of Downtown Sacramento for close to 20 years, the Capitol Casino Café remains a hidden gem for a comforting meal and kind folks.

Inside the recently remodeled casino, card players will find limit and no limit Texas hold ’em, Omaha and other California games, while the café sports a large menu offering satisfying Asian and American dishes.

Thanks to house-made sauces and wontons, owner Clarke Rosa says the Asian-inspired dishes— such as Seafood Delight and Beef Pho—are some of the best in town, and the menu’s variety provides a wealth of options for nightly players.

Alongside all-day breakfast, diners will find dozens of sandwiches, salads and burgers, as well as classic seafood and meatand-potato entrees. A good choice?

The ¾-pound premium rib-eye steak.

When it arrives at the table you’re mildly surprised the kitchen has plates big enough to hold this sprawling, juicy steak, topped with garlic herb butter beside sautéed seasonal vegetables and thick, peppery, house-made mashed potatoes.

Paired with a glass of red wine, it’s a venerable dish worthy of Lady Luck’s good fortune.

Rosa says that while most players tend to eat at the tables, the early morning breakfast and lunch crowds pull from commuters and surrounding businesses—people looking for an honest meal to fuel an honest day’s work. Many are neighbors and many are regulars.

Neighborly kindness and large portions of comfort food make for a lot of repeat customers. It’s especially evident on game nights when football fans fill the bar’s

cushioned high-tops, crowding around a half-dozen big screen TVs and plates of appetizers, such as the recently introduced sausage pizza. A generous amount of mushrooms, crunchy peppers, and more thick chunks of Italian sausage than anyone has a right to—it’s everything you could want in a crispy flatbread pizza.

And it’s never a gamble to top it all off with a slice of hot Dutch apple pie a la mode. With a nearly softball-size scoop of vanilla ice cream melting into the pie’s buttery crumble, it’s easy to see why every dish at Capitol Casino Café is a winning meal. ●

VI BE

A neighborhood place where literally everyone knows your name PERFECT FOR

Watching a game with a friendly group of fans AS K ABOU T

Cowboy chili made with bison CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks $5-$14 Food $5.99-$19.99 L OCATI ON

411 N. 16th St., Sacramento CONTACT

916-446-0700, capitol-casino.com

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

13

Photos by ANNE STOKES

By NISA SMITH

CREST CAFE Enjoy some of the most creative food in town— while also supporting social responsibility

S

tationed along Sacramento’s bustling K Street, Crest Cafe is the go-to destination for the endless cast of characters traversing the downtown landscape. Visiting the Capitol, heading to the King’s game, catching a play or looking to refuel after working out at the nearby gym, Crest Cafe offers fresh Mediterranean cuisine fit for every occasion.

The scent of fried chickpeas greets customers as they enter the lively mother-and-daughter-owned establishment. Customers buzzing about in suits, medical scrubs, badges and lanyards can pick from the colorful menu items or chat over a lunchtime-only buffet— which is used as the restaurant’s “experimental platform,” according to co-owner Hawa Sultani.

The Mediterranean fries, for example, went from a buffet exclusive to a menu staple. Crinklecut fries are topped with slivers of tender halal lamb, crunchy pepperoncini peppers, diced cucumbers, black olives and a

medley of parsley, onions and tomatoes before receiving a drizzle of creamy garlic sauce and feta cheese crumbles.

The fan-favorite Mediterranean nachos contain similar ingredients.

Perfectly fried pita chips—not too crunchy or too soft—are layered in a petal formation with tangy feta cheese, chopped parsley, diced tomatoes and onions resting in the center, allowing customers to scoop the perfect bite. A fragrant cilantro dressing and creamy garlic sauce soak into cubes of juicy halal chicken (which can be swapped with eggplant or falafel). Beneath the pita chips, the two sauces meld alongside a refreshing amount of lettuce. This dish is prepared to order for guests traveling from as far as the Bay Area for a bite.

The newly debuted falafel tacos are sure to compete with the nachos for customer attention. A plentiful amount of avocado hummus rests on fluffy pita bread with eggplant salsa, peppery falafel and feta cheese.

Sliced jalapeno and zig-zagged

chipotle tahini and white garlic sauce adorn the hand-held entree, leaving nothing to be desired.

From the shareable hummus flatbread to the gyro wrap, customers will find lively herbs and crisp vegetables in every item. The mastermind behind Crest Cafe’s menu—and Hawa’s mother—Monira Sultani says “freshness is one of our goals” and you can taste it.

In fact, leftover food is packaged at the end of the day and provided to those that are homeless. From its inception, Crest has prioritized

active positive contributions to the Sacramento community. As an Afghani immigrant, Monira and her team hire women refugees and collaborate with other businesses owned and operated by women and people of color. Whether you dine at or cater from the 9-yearold establishment, know that your vibrant meal is produced by an honorable team. ● VI BE

Fun people-watching in a bustling, urban environment PERFECT FOR

Grabbing a fresh, seasonal meal before a game or show AS K ABOU T

Private events for up to 100 guests CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks: $2.29 Food: $2.50-$12.50 L OCATI ON

1017 K St., Sacramento CONTACT

916-444-2722, crestcafeonline.com

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2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

Photos by ANNE STOKES

By REID FOWLER

CULINERDY KITCHEN A family-owned eatery offers locally sourced, creative plates with a punch of WOW!

I

f you’re a diner who prefers your culinary escapades a little more “outside of the box,” Culinerdy Kitchen is your next dining destination. Modern comfort food with a child-like twist (think: housemade mac’n’cheese topped with Goldfish crackers) means you’re in for a fresh, fun treat.

What started as a popular food truck has been built from the ground up and transformed into a unique brick-and-mortar establishment.

Culinerdy Kitchen is run by married co-owners Keith and Amy Breedlove, and as the two will gladly share, the whole project has very much been a partnered effort. They even decoupaged the comic-inspired clipboards themselves!

Down to the details, Culinerdy’s atmosphere cultivates both a sense of nerdy nostalgia for ’80s gamer culture and a modern, come-as-youare, carefree attitude. Each table is uniquely collaged, themed to the likes of Star Wars, Dungeons & Dragons, Star Trek and various comics. There’s even a table collaged with Chef Keith’s most influential cookbooks.

“Everything we do is outside

the box,” says Keith, the “Culinerd” himself. (The name comes from his nerdy love of food paired with science, and he is always inventing new recipes and tinkering with new twists to the menu.)

With Culinerdy’s customizable and shareable large portions, it’s hard to go wrong. Every last menu item is made from scratch, each bite bursting with what Keith refers to as a “flavor bomb.” Even the salty, tangy pickles are prepared with extra flavor, which Culinerdy Kitchen staff make in-house using zucchini instead of cucumber.

The “Dirty Balls” Brussels sprouts are an absolute must: Cooked to perfect crispy bites, the sizable, artistic heap is overflowing with a seasoned mix of onion, garlic, cotija cheese, mojo aioli, cilantro and chili threads.

Messy but delicious, the Apple Bottom Burger won’t disappoint either. Dripping with melted Bourbon Bleu cheese, onions, the house slaw, and of course, marinated apple slices, the burger packs quite a flavorful punch with just a hint of sweetness unlike any other burger you’ve devoured.

Dietary restrictions? No problem: Culinerdy also offers plenty of comparable plant-based vegan and gluten-free options. “We can do just about everything,” assures Keith.

For dessert, the Maraschinosoaked bread pudding with a cherry on top will transport you straight to a summer State Fair—only it tastes even better. Sweet and sticky, with just the right kind of indulgent, nostalgic hit.

Amy and Keith are dedicated not only to the culinary craft, but also to giving back to the local community.

If you’re wondering what the wiry, twisted silver tree is when you walk in the restaurant, you’re looking at The Giving Tree. For just $13 you can purchase a meal in advance for a neighbor who cannot afford it themselves.

“This area is wonderful,” says Keith. “We want to do our part to give back to the neighborhood.” ●

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Superhero hangout PERFECT FOR

Kids at heart looking for a fun culinary escape—and anyone who proudly embraces the description of “nerd” AS K ABOU T

Cannabis pairing dinners and seasonal specials CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks: $3+ Food: $9-$14 L OCATI ON

524 12th St., Sacramento (with plenty of parking, especially at night) CONTACT

916-594-7911, culinerdykitchen.com

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

15

Photos by ANNE STOKES

By KATHLEEN VIVALDI

ETTORE’S BAKERY & RESTAURANT A favorite local bakery is also a must-stop for dinner

E

ttore’s has been a successful business for over 35 years.

Combine that longevity with this fact—a third of the employees have been on staff for 10-25 years—and you begin to understand its unique staying power.

“Consistency, kindness, and customer service [make up] the core foundation of Ettore’s,” says owner Lisa Calk. “Ettore’s is an established tradition, where generations of families have relied on us for all their bakery needs.”

Entering Ettore’s is reminiscent of strolling into a European café tucked away on cobblestone streets. Patrons feel the warmth of the traditional wood fire pizza oven and take in the yummy smells of fresh pastries, cookies, cakes and more.

“We are literally farm-to-fork,” says Calk. “Everything here is made from scratch in the kitchen and the kitchen runs 24/7.”

Ettore’s is convenient for those wanting to order at the counter, grab coffee, bakery items or café food to go. But the restaurant also has many tables inside—and outside on their patio—to dine on-site.

On the bakery side, good luck choosing from the multitude of fall treats, which include German chocolate cake, caramel pecan cheesecake, pumpkin spice cookies and carrot cake. For many local families, the fall and winter holidays also wouldn’t be complete without serving Ettore’s desserts.

But Ettore’s doesn’t just have sweets—and isn’t just a breakfast or lunch stop. On the restaurant side of the house, you can sit and enjoy house-made soups (such as the scrumptious fall butternut squash soup), as well as hand-crafted salads, sandwiches, pizzas and quiches throughout the day. There is also a full dinner menu after 5 p.m., offering six daily specials that are based on the freshest ingredients available. Choose between fresh seafood, house-made pasta, hand-cut steaks and pork chops, even a seasonal risotto.

In fact, elevate an ordinary weeknight this fall by dropping in for

the “Wine and Dine Wednesdays,” where you’ll have your choice of a preset entrée—for example, mahi-mahi, rack of lamb or tri-tip—a glass of wine, and a hearty dessert ($40 for two).

At Thanksgiving, Ettore’s will also offer a traditional menu with all the trimmings, and a convenient fullservice Thanksgiving Day pick-up.

Order ahead and enjoy the holiday outside of the kitchen. Don’t forget to add their delicious pumpkin or pecan pie.

And even if you’re having dinner at Ettore’s, you can still give your sweet tooth priority. As the famous quote by Jacques Torres goes, “Life is short. Eat dessert first.” ● VI BE

Casual yet elegant, with a European flare PERFECT FOR

A farm-to-fork, seasonal dinner after a day of holiday shopping AS K ABOU T

Gourmet boxed lunches for your next business meeting CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks: $6-$12 (beer and wine by the glass) Bottles: $25-$46 Food: $4.95-$40 (dinner for two) L OCATI ON

2376 Fair Oaks Blvd., Sacramento CONTACT

916-482-0708, ettores.com

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2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

Photos by REID FOWLER

By MATT CRAGGS

HOPPY’S RAILYARD KITCHEN & HOPGARDEN Enjoy the award-winning brews you know in a new location

W

ith its 2018 move from East Sacramento to Old Sacramento, Hoppy Brewing Company’s new brewpub—Hoppy’s Railyard Kitchen & Hopgarden— offers a seasonal, local-minded menu and an adaptable setting for anything from an after-work happy hour to a pregame dinner to a festive wedding reception.

Inside, away from the creaking wooden walkways of 2nd Street, the spacious wraparound bar and surrounding high tops make for an alluring happy hour, where you can choose between nearly two dozen rotating taps featuring the house’s beer, as well as very local breweries’ selections (within 25 miles).

Or perhaps you’d prefer an Up In Smoke cocktail of High West American Prairie Bourbon, Cherry Heering, black walnut bitters, and a cherry and orange peel. Infused bar-side with cherrywood smoke, this well-crafted twist on an Old Fashioned is sure to delight the nose and soul of bourbon drinkers.

Within walking distance of the Golden 1 Center, Hoppy’s is an equally reliable choice for grabbing a quick bite before a Kings’ game or lingering in the Hopgarden for a weeknight dinner.

Surrounded by greenery with red brick buildings looming over the courtyard, the Hopgarden feels like an oasis within the historic district, and is a nice spot to experience the changing of the seasons and the seasonal menu.

Executive Chef Jeremy Martinez says roughly half of the menu is sourced locally, with some of

the kitchen’s herbs, tomatoes and peppers grown on-site. The quarterly menus focus on American comfort food, inspired by customer favorites and seasonal availability.

For fall, the Tower Bridge Deviled Eggs pack Thanksgiving into every bite with a mixture of egg, butternut squash and nutmeg that’s topped with cranberry relish and fried sage.

Martinez says much of the menu is also made in-house. The Pony Express Patio Pasta, for example, features hand-made noodles that are rolled and cut to order. The result is a superbly chewy, thick noodle that gives heft to the tender chicken and crumbled gorgonzola, while holding

up to a sauce of tomatoes, pancetta, garlic, shallots, house-made chicken stock, butter and basil.

The Hopgarden and a sectionedoff room inside offer unique venues for large parties or more formal events such as wedding receptions.

And the perfectly decadent Jazz Jubilee Crème Brulee—made with cocoa powder, milk and dark chocolate—turns any night into a special event.

From happy hour to happily ever after, Hoppy’s Railyard Kitchen brings old friends to a new location and new favorites to Old Sacramento. ●

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A convivial brewpub with sophisticated food PERFECT FOR

Craft beer fans and foodies alike AS K ABOU T

House-made apple and pumpkin pies CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks: $4.60-$19 Food: $8-$36 L OCATI ON

1022 2nd St., Sacramento CONTACT

916-451-4677, hoppy.com

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

17

Photos by REID FOWLER

By MATT CRAGGS

HOUSE KITCHEN & BAR Sophisticated home cooking you wish your mother had made

A

long Capitol Mall, House Kitchen & Bar offers familiar fare made fantastic through fresh ingredients, skilled execution, and global and personal inspiration.

A popular dish among the lunching state workers who fill the patio and dining room—adorned with a comfortable farmhouse décor of wood, copper and metal—is the Prime-Rib French Dip. The combination of prime-rib, Swiss cheese, fried onions and horseradish mayo so expertly delivers that diners should rethink their future expectations for any iteration of this sandwich.

Though the menu reflects a variety of culinary influences, chef and owner Chris Nestor focuses on classic comfort food prepared with fresh products, top-of-the-line cuts of meat, and ingredients sourced from as close as the farmers’ market outside the restaurant’s front door.

Daily, Nestor rotates the soup and seafood selections—often catering to guests’ past requests or favorites—and says most items on the menu can be modified for a variety of diets, offering something for everyone on their way to the nearby Golden 1 Center.

Kings’ fans and concertgoers looking for a light meal before an event should consider pairing the Sweet Corn Tamale Cakes and a Downtown Drop from the bar.

The baked tamale cakes—made with masa and fresh and creamed corn—are stuffed with pepper jack cheese before they’re fried and topped with a bright mix of salsa verde, corn salsa, cotija and sour cream.

Beside it, the pink Downtown Drop is a pool of Ketel One Citroen and pomegranate juice with a slice of lemon on a sugar-crusted rim that’s one crucial step shy of being candy in a glass but, in a pinch, could

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2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

substitute nicely for dessert.

On nights when the Golden 1 Center is dark, Nestor says happy hour and dinner service offer a more subdued pace, with time to savor dishes such as the Braised Beef Short Ribs. Covered in a demiglace and served with garlic mashed potatoes and fried Brussels sprouts, the plate is the epitome of comfort food for a cold and dreary night— hearty, warming and fortifying.

And if you skipped the Downtown Drop—or even if you didn’t—ask after the daily dessert menu and hope it includes the apple pie. Indelibly paired with vanilla ice cream, the homemade lattice crust holds large chunks of heavilyspiced apples—and cinnamon, sugar, nutmeg and a dash of cloves come together for an unmistakable taste of fall. Served as Nestor’s father would order it, topped with a slice of cheddar cheese, it’s a touch of home at House Kitchen & Bar. ● VI BE

Classy yet inviting, with kicked-up comfort food PERFECT FOR

A delectable workday lunch, a pre-game dinner or a romantic date night AS K ABOU T

The fully customizable catering menus CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks: $4-$20 Food: $8-$23 L OCATI ON

555 Capitol Mall, Sacramento CONTACT

916-498-9924, houseoncapitol.com

INK EATS AND DRINKS One of Midtown’s favorite late-night eateries delights at any time of day

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hen Ink Eats and Drinks opened in 2003, latenight meal options in Midtown were sparse. Even though more restaurants are on the midnight bandwagon now, Ink remains a go-to spot for Midtown revelers looking for a wee bite in the wee hours. But Ink also offers hearty lunch and dinner options, as well as a weekend brunch featuring

a bloody mary bar and endless mimosas.

Chef and owner Chris Nestor believes Ink’s long-running popularity rests in consistently crave-worthy dishes, generous portions and affordable prices— “pub grub” made with fresh ingredients that draws guests at any hour.

At lunch, the black, red and chrome eatery—with graffiti-esque, tattoo art adorning the walls and ceiling—caters to the surrounding businesses and hospital staff, refueling on quick meals such as the Philly cheesesteak with garlic fries.

Piled high on a toasted steak roll, the thinly-sliced rib-eye melts in your mouth, its juices mixing with the gooey Swiss and cheddar cheeses, while the sautéed peppers and onions bring a crunch to every bite. The jumble of garlic fries on the side is fragrant, but not so strong that it lingers into your afternoon meeting.

Later in the day, the locals come and go for dinner, and the pre-party crowd stops in before dissipating throughout Midtown’s clubs and events. A popular menu choice? A plate of nachos—a bed of madeto-order tortilla chips supporting a towering tangle of toppings. Amidst

grilled chicken, black beans and sour cream, a house-made cheese sauce ties together freshly chopped jalapeños, tomatoes, onion and cilantro—a filling combination that won’t weigh you down on the dance floor.

After a night out, Ink remains a popular favorite for a quick bite and one more drink, such as the Ol’ Town Road. A Bulleit Bourbon base with apricot brandy, honey and lemon, the cocktail carries the pleasant sweetness and acidity of a lemon drop with a stout, balancing kick of bourbon on the end.

And if that doesn’t satisfy your sweet tooth, Ink will leave its mark with the churro donuts. Arriving at the table, the heat from two freshlyfried donuts threatens to melt the vanilla ice cream, caramel and whipped cream—spurring fellow diners into a jumble of competing spoons and a mad dash for every drippy, crunchy, sweet bite.

After more than 15 years in Sacramento, Ink remains a reigning Midtown eatery—whether it’s 11 a.m. or 11 p.m. ●

VI BE

Artsy and colorful in the heart of Midtown PERFECT FOR

The start—or end—of an evening out AS K ABOU T

The Beyond Burger with a vegan, gluten-free bun CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks: $5 and up Food: $3-$17 L OCATI ON

2730 N St., Sacramento CONTACT

916-456-2800, inkeats.com

Photos by REID FOWLER

By MATT CRAGGS

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

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JALAPEÑOS RESTAURANT Experience a completely creative take on Mexican cuisine

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Photos by ANNE STOKES

By RAUL CLEMENT

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ocated on 21st Street in Midtown Sacramento, Jalapeños has been open for more than 30 years, so you would think it is a known quantity.

But two-and-a-half years ago, it was taken over by Alejandro Mercado and Henry Idrovo. Big changes followed.

Mercado has worked in the food industry since he was 16, ascending eventually to general manager. It was there food became a passion and not just a job. When the previous owner of Jalapeños offered to sell, Mercado and Idrovo pounced. At the time, Jalapeños was famous for its burritos, but the new owners decided to replace the menu with more unusual fare.

“A lot of people thought we were crazy,” Mercado says. “But if you Google ‘burrito,’ you’ll see 40 places. We didn’t want to be known for what everybody else has.”

Now, the menu is divided into daytime and night. During the day, guisos dominate. Technically translated as “stews,” guisos are meats or veggies served taco-style with crumbled cheese and Mexican crema. Currently, there are seven options, ranging from pork rinds to zucchini to tinga (chipotle-marinated chicken). These are served with a

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

side of house-made sauce, a blend of five different peppers.

At night, more hearty fare is available. In fact, Jalapeños caters to the nearby bar crowd by serving Mexican “street food” until 3 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. Some of it will be familiar to experienced diners, such as sopes, with their thick chewy base of fried masa. But much remains unique to Jalapeños: There is an entire menu of “dogos,” Jalapeños’ take on a Mexican street hot dog.

There are currently five dogo options, but you can’t go wrong with the esquite dogo. This takes a traditional Mexican street dish, esquite—a mix of grilled corn, red bell peppers, mozzarella cheese and chili powder—and uses it as a hot dog topping. Add ketchup, mayo and, yes, French fries, and the result is a delicious behemoth you might not be able to eat in one sitting.

“This is the perfect example of what we’re doing,” Mercado explains. “Mixing everything to create something new.”

If you’re somehow still hungry, there are always the asada fries—a heaping platter of French fries topped with pico de gallo, crema and grilled steak. ●

Wash it all down with La Coqueta Michelada, Jalapeños’ version of a traditional michelada (beer, lime, tomato juice and various spices). Enjoy the outdoor seating while the weather permits. Take in the feel of bustling Midtown and the flavors of Mexico as you’ve never experienced them before.

VI BE

Casual and inventive PERFECT FOR

A night you are craving something completely different AS K ABOU T

Tostada Thursdays CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks: $1.80-$7.50 Food: $2-$11 L OCATI ON

1413 21st St., Sacramento CONTACT:

916-492-0727, facebook.com/ jalapenos21

Photos by ANNE STOKES

By RAUL CLEMENT

KOSHI RAMEN BAR Where tradition meets modernity—just in time for our changing seasons

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s fall deepens and the weather cools, our thoughts turn toward comfort foods. And what is more comforting than a hearty bowl of soup? In Natomas, Koshi Ramen Bar offers a modern twist on a Japanese classic: ramen noodle soup.

The décor reflects this blend of modern and traditional. Clay pots and Japanese lanterns sit alongside flat screen TVs. Wooden window shutters hang on the walls, adding aesthetic flair.

John Tran, who co-owns Koshi with his wife Debbie Cun, is a former engineer and woodworker. He built most of the furniture himself, based on careful designs he and his wife picked out.

“John and I visited Japan last summer and fell in love with the food,” Cun says. “We wanted to bring a taste of traditional ramen by offering a modern vibe without losing its authenticity.”

The menu offers this same fresh perspective. Traditional dishes such as rice bowls sit alongside unique

offerings like Spam musubi—a sashimi-like appetizer of Spam and sushi rice, all wrapped in seaweed.

If traditional is what you want, you can’t go wrong with the ramen.

“Our stock broth is made fresh daily, cooked for at least 12 hours in order to bring out the rich flavors of the chicken and pork,” Cun says of Koshi’s signature dish. “All of our ingredients are fresh and locally sourced.”

The black garlic ramen, one of Koshi’s most popular dishes, is a hearty portion of rich broth, absorbent noodles, and entire cloves of garlic.

Corn and bamboo shoots provide a crunchy contrast to tender pork belly.

With seven different ramen selections, including a vegetarian option, there is something for everyone.

The menu extends well beyond the traditional, however. If you’re there with a big party or looking for something to snack on, try the wide array of unique appetizers. The

chicken karrage, Koshi’s version of chicken nuggets, is a mouthwatering mound of battered chicken breast. A house-made dipping sauce—a spicysweet mixture of secret ingredients— provides just the right tangy finish.

Other starters include juicy fried oysters, crispy dumplings, soy-sauceglazed grilled squid and creamy crab rangoons.

Wash this all down with one of the many beers on tap, or, if you prefer, a Japanese peach soda. Sit back, watch the game on one of the five TVs surrounding you, and enjoy the meeting of two worlds: old and new. ● VI BE

Casual but chic neighborhood hangout PERFECT FOR

A Friday dinner with friends CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks: $2-$5 Food: $5-$13 AS K ABOU T

Extra ramen toppings L OCATI ON

Natomas Marketplace, 3581 Truxel Road, #2, Sacramento CONTACT

916-692-8985, koshiramen.com

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

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Photos by ANNE STOKES

By REID FOWLER

KIKI’S CHICKEN PLACE Spice up your fries and fried chicken—from the ordinary to the sublime

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ot a hankering for some quick, Southern comfort food? Need your food promptly, but don’t want to sacrifice top-quality? Kiki’s Chicken Place is your new go-to.

You’ve probably heard the buzz around Sac about Kiki’s famous fries and wings—and that’s because this is not your average fast-food fried chicken. Since their launch in December 2015, Kiki’s mission is to deliver great food and quality service—and they deliver in spades.

Many of the recipes you’ll try were crafted by Summer Gonzalez, who co-owns Kiki’s Chicken Place with her husband, Santiago. Each location is operated by family or close friends who understand the importance of the company standard, “Always Fresh, Never Frozen.”

Delve into a bright red diner basket of Kiki’s famous golden chicken wings—flaky and crispy with just the perfect amount of salty crunch on the outside mixed with savory, tender, juicy chicken on the inside.

The menu boasts an array of 11 sauces to pair with your wings: Choose three and engage in your own mini tasting excursion, from the original buffalo sauce (get it as hot and spicy or as mild as you like it), the mango habanero sauce (which adds some cool

22

sweetness), or the sweet and spicy chili sauce (which strikes the perfect balance of sweet with just a splash of heat). Refresh between savory bites with a drink from the classic soda fountain, and repeat.

Feeling a little adventurous? The Kiki’s fries are the most popular item on the menu—think “loaded fries,” but with a special Kiki’s twist. The mixed basket comes with straightcut fries, mozzarella cheese, buffalo and blue cheese sauce, and choppedup fried chicken tenders. Or, if you prefer your potatoes to come in the warm, fluffy form of tater tots, you can easily sub tots for the fries. The Kiki’s tots are Santiago’s personal favorite.

In addition to the Folsom restaurant, Kiki’s currently offers eight locations and growing (which means you can soon satisfy that craving for Kiki’s chicken and fries no matter where you are).

Kiki’s dishes out not only memorable food, but also a healthy dose of social payback. “It’s important for us to give back to the community,” says Santiago. If you’re feeling generous, you can participate in Kiki’s “Meals for Heroes” by providing a meal for a local hero for only $10. ●

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

VIB E

Diner without the frills meets upscale fast food P ER F E C T FO R

When you’re hungry for something quick, but still high-quality A SK A B O UT

Family meals with up to 40 wings and three large sides that can be ordered to go C UISIN E C O ST

Drinks: $1-$3 Food: $4-$11 (up to $65 for bulk orders) LO C A T IO N

313 Iron Point Road, Folsom (as well as eight other locations, all over the Sacramento area) CONTACT

916-550-0146, kikischicken.com

Photos by ANNE STOKES

By RAUL CLEMENT

KUJI ASIAN GRILL Despite the lack of frills—or maybe because of it— this is all about flavor

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t’s easy to miss Kuji Asian Grill, tucked away as it is in a nondescript shopping center in Woodland. Like its location, the décor is also no-frills. The friendly open kitchen and wood-colored laminate booths belie the fact it is one of the area’s best Asian restaurants.

This casual atmosphere is deliberate.

“We wanted a place where people didn’t have to dress up to eat well,” says chef and co-owner Kai Jung. “You can come here in your pajamas.”

The food is anything but nondescript, however. An elegant fusion of Korean and Hawaiian, the menu reflects the backgrounds of the chefs. Kai grew up in Davis, but his love for cooking took him from the Culinary Institute in New York to Hawaii, where he worked for years for the Hilton. There he met Suji, his wife and the co-owner of Kuji. They moved to California to be closer to Kai’s family and to take the plunge into owning their own business.

“To give up the security of working in a big hotel was scary,” Kai says. “But you start to get complacent. You stagnate.”

For those wanting a little of everything, the plate lunch is an excellent option. The kalbi, Korean short ribs, are fall-off-the-bone succulent. All plate lunches come with three sides: rice, Korean pickles, and a Hawaiian-influenced potato mac salad. The latter is unlike anything you’ve had before. A creamy mix of noodles and potatoes, it is served cold and topped with a crunchy bacon garnish. It reminds you of something you’d find at a potluck—and want the recipe for.

If you’re craving hearty, try the bibimbap. Served in a hot stone bowl, this traditional Korean dish features white rice, marinated beef, juliennecut vegetables and an over-easy egg.

As you eat it, the heat of the bowl keeps cooking the rice, giving it a delightful crispiness.

For something a bit lighter, don’t overlook the pork belly salad. Not just a supplement to the main dishes, this salad is a meal in itself. The pork belly, which is miso-braised, has a crackly outer skin and juicy center that explodes in your mouth. This is offset by the bed of mixed lettuce, dried mushrooms, garlic chips and a delicate soy-pepper dressing. It’s the kind of complex dish you can see yourself eating daily.

Open since January, Kuji is doing a bustling business despite its easy-tomiss location. Sometimes you don’t need fancy trappings. Sometimes the food speaks for itself. ● VI BE

Casual and inviting PERFECT FOR

Impressing your boss—or new crush—at lunch AS K ABOU T

House-made gochujang chili paste CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks: $1-$4 Food: $3-$15 L OCATI ON

1801 E. Gibson Road, Woodland CONTACT

(530) 665-6097, kujiasiangrill.com

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

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Photos by REID FOWLER

By KATHLEEN VIVALDI

PIZZA ROCK Inventive international pies from a pizza master— right at 10th and K streets

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ot your average traditional pizzeria, Pizza Rock offers gourmet, hand-crafted, awardwinning pizzas along with additional Italian fare. Everything is served with a friendly, energetic and “rock ‘n’ roll” vibe.

Pizza Rock began almost 10 years ago, when three best friends joined together, each with their own expertise, and built a destination restaurant in downtown Sacramento for people of all ages to enjoy.

Owner Tony Gemignani, a 13-time World Pizza Champion, is still continually perfecting the pizza craft and this means offering a varied dining experience.

“Most pizzerias offer one or two styles, but Pizza Rock offers 10 different styles, which means there is something for everyone,” says Laura Meyer, executive head chef.

Pizza styles include Napoletana, Romana, Sicilian, Detroit, Chicago and gluten-free.

Whether patrons order antipasto,

24

salads, pizzas, calzones or pasta, Pizza Rock throws it down in terms of generous portions. For starters, try the popular Salumi and Formaggio Board. Literally brought to the table on a board, this antipasto has three tasty meats and cheeses, accompanied by fig jam, focaccia toast and spicy walnuts.

Pair the board with a fall specialty craft cocktail like the “Lady Luck.”

Not only beautiful, this cocktail is mouthwateringly savory—it combines Italicus Bergamont, fresh lemon juice, house-juiced carrot, simple syrup and ginger beer.

Then choose from five fresh, crisp, house-made salads. A favorite choice is the gorgonzola and apple salad. Presented family style, delight on the fresh Sonoma greens, gorgonzola cheese crumbles, candied walnuts and dried cherries tossed in homemade balsamic vinaigrette. It tastes almost like dessert.

For the main course try the Margherita. Winner of the World

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

Pizza Cup in Naples, Italy, only 73 of these famous pizzas are made a day. Baked in a 900-degree woodfired oven using Caputo flour imported from Italy, served with tomato, Fior di Latte mozzarella, basil and extra virgin olive oil, it is superb.

For a classic Italian pizza, order the Cal Italia, a Gold Medal Food Network Pizza Champions Challenge winner. This hearty pizza is delectable and pretty. Baked using Tony’s own flour, the gorgonzola cheese is melted in perfectly. Topped with sweet fig preserve, proscuitto di Parma, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and drizzled with a balsamic reduction sauce, it is satisfaction guaranteed.

Mangiamo, everyone! ●

VI BE

Fun downtown nightspot that pays homage to classic rock PERFECT FOR

Impressing the true pizza connoisseur AS K ABOU T

Birthday parties and group events CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks: $3-$13 Food: $7-$34 L OCATI ON

1020 K St., Sacramento CONTACT

916-737-5777, pizzarocksacramento.com

Photos by ANNE STOKES

By REID FOWLER

THAI CANTEEN Affordable, authentic Thai cuisine in the heart of Midtown

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pbeat pop music plays through the speakers. Wooden accents and bright green walls combine to create a peaceful atmosphere, with meaningful decorations like the Thai alphabet beautifully lettered on the back wall. A stuffed owl rests high on a shelf, guarding the bar’s wine selection.

As the name suggests, Thai Canteen is a canteen-style restaurant, perfect for when you need to grab a fast—but still fresh and delicious— meal on your lunch break. The establishment is run by husband and wife super-duo Suvijak “Tee” and Ann Devahasdin, who are both from Bangkok, Thailand.

The central Midtown location is easily walkable, perfect for anyone who lives or works in the neighborhood. There is also street parking available for those coming from a little further away.

The inviting menu is color-coded for an easy ordering experience, complemented by the daily specials, which are handwritten on a roll of craft paper hung on the wall.

Tee explains that the tastes found in each menu item are influenced from Thailand, particularly from his own family recipes (including some royal recipes—what a treat!), but modernized to bring the tastes home to Sacramento. His wife Ann, who has a Ph.D. in microbiology from U.C. Davis, helps run both Thai Canteen and THAI, their second establishment.

Get the party started with Tee’s tea: Korean soju plus a pitcher of Thai tea and a dish of lemon slices.

Perfect for sharing and celebrating with a group, “it’s really popular

with the party crowd,” Ann explains.

You mix it yourself, so it is easy to customize the flavor to your personal liking—sweeter, sourer or more alcoholic.

Too early for alcohol? Ask for their Thai iced tea with coconut milk for a creamier texture and slightly saltier flavor.

Everyone can enjoy their own dish, yet portions are still large enough to share. Whet your appetite with the gai satay chicken skewers, marinated in turmeric, giving them a golden yellow glaze.

The skewers are paired with a refreshing cucumber salad, as well as a sweet, creamy peanut dipping sauce, that transforms each bite of the tender grilled chicken into an “mmm”-inducing experience.

For your entrée, the No. 1 kana moo grob is a popular go-to for many customers. The dish consists of a stir-fry with melt-in-your-mouth pork belly bites, warm and snappy Chinese broccoli, perfectly cooked white rice,

and some red spicy chilies sprinkled in for a bit of heat—all marinated in the light and flavorful house gravy.

To round out the meal, order the kao niew mamaung (mango with sticky rice). A classic Thai dessert, the dish offers smooth slices of refreshing, fresh-cut mango with just enough added sweetness from the textured sticky rice, and notes of coconut permeating the mix of light, delicate flavors. It’s a perfect way to end a filling meal with something sweet, without being too rich or too heavy. ● VI BE

Modern and hip, with an authentic Bangkok flavor PERFECT FOR

Stopping by on your lunch hour or late night get-togethers AS K ABOU T

Jay’s Special CU I S I NE COS T

Drinks: $2-$3.25 Food: $10-$13 L OCATI ON

1501 16th St., Sacramento CONTACT

916-382-9196, facebook.com/ thaicanteensac/

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

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Photos by ANNE STOKES

By THEA MARIE ROOD

VAIANO TRATTORIA Take a step out of time at this relaxing eatery

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aiano Trattoria is in a quiet stretch of Granite Bay, on the way to Folsom Lake, and this time of year, it is pleasant to sit in the cozy, art-filled dining room and watch the thunderclouds build up against the mountains, maybe even drive out to the beach to watch the storm after your meal. It is as though you stumbled across this family-run place on a late afternoon drive in the Italian countryside.

Vaiano is in fact the name of co-owner Patrizia Hickok’s hometown in Tuscany, 15 miles north of Florence, where she grew up learning to cook by her mother’s side. “I was raised in a household where we would make pasta from scratch every Sunday,” says Hickok, who has run the trattoria for eight years now with her husband, Nathan.

“The most important thing to me is that we prepare dishes the way we would eat them in Italy.”

That begins, of course, with a bottle of Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2016—a Tuscan blend

26

made up of sangiovese and a touch of merlot. “Italian wines might not be what you would sip by themselves, but they go well with food,” says Hickok.

And this one certainly does.

Its bright, complex fruit notes and long finish pair perfectly with every course the server brings you from the cheerful kitchen—calling out “porta” at the door, and letting a momentary blast of Italian and happy laughter escape into the dining room.

For a creative antipasti, choose the Carpaccio di Manzo—thinly sliced beef you can roll up around the fresh toppings: capers, red onion, arugula and lemon. Next, try the Insalata di Pere con Gorgonzola, almost too pretty to eat, with pear slices framing the baby greens and gorgonzola crumbles that are lightly dressed in a unique walnut vinaigrette. As with everything here, the flavors are so wellbalanced, nothing overpowers and you can just let them roll subtly over your taste buds. As Hickok promised, they are also enhanced with a sip of that wine.

But the best is yet to come: Pappardelle al Cinghiale, the restaurant’s signature dish, is based on a family recipe. You won’t find it just anywhere, Hickok says, and it is reason enough to come back once a week. A wide, flat, house-made pasta—just the right combination of chewy and tender—stands up marvelously to the rich, earthy, perfectly spiced wild boar ragu, which tastes as though it has simmered on your mother’s stove all day. You will want some more bread to sop up every delectable drop.

Lastly, don’t forget dessert— which also goes well with the last of the wine. The lemon panna cotta is rich and creamy, not too sweet, with a dollop of fresh whipped cream. You will fight your dinner companion for the last bite. ●

2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE

VIB E

Slow down, relax, enjoy life P ER F E C T FO R

A destination for your Sunday afternoon family drive A SK A B O UT

”Grab’n’Go” trays or fully staffed catering events C UISIN E C O ST

Drinks: $5-$13 (by the glass) Bottles: $22-$300 Food: $4-$24 LO C A T IO N

7160 Douglas Blvd., Granite Bay CONTACT

916-780-0888, vaianotrattoria.com

Decorative

ARMS TREASURES FROM THE ROBERT M. LEE COLLECTION

November 16, 2019 — February 16, 2020 This world-renowned private collection offers a rare opportunity to experience the artistry of talented arms engravers who incorporate historical decorative traditions into their cra smanship today.

LEAD SPONSOR

Whittier Trust, Investment & Wealth Management MAJOR SPONSORS

The Bretzlaff Foundation The Thelma B. and Thomas P. Hart Foundation Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority SPONSORS

Barrick Gold; Clark/Sullivan Construction; John C. Deane; Jenny and Garrett Sutton | Corporate Direct SUPPORTING SPONSORS

Debbie Day; Matt Day, Sr.; Haynie & Company

Donald W. Reynolds Center for the Visual Arts E. L. Wiegand Gallery 160 West Liberty Street in downtown Reno, Nevada Silver-Mounted Exhibition Pistol, 1854-55, Louis-Julien Gastinne-Rene e (Paris, France), Engraver unsigned; Silver and wood (ebony). Collection of Robert M. Lee.

Roseville, California www.nixta.co