re:wind
Iconic work from Parsons’ archives (1949) This recruiting poster, designed by James Schucker, popularized the nurse’s uniform Edith d’Errecalde designed for Mainbocher in 1949.
D’Errecalde’s practical but stylish new uniform aided in an effort to recruit 8,000 public health nurses in the United States.
Edith d’Errecalde’s original watercolor drawing for Mainbocher is housed in the New School archives.
Public Health Nurse’s Uniform Edith d’Errecalde, Costume Design ’41 The name Edith d’Errecalde (1905–2002)
wake of World War II. The new uniform, it was
work, possibly created in collaboration with
is one that might easily have been lost to
hoped, would help in the effort to recruit the
Mainbocher illustrator and designer Douglas
fashion history. But thanks to The New
8,000 nurses needed by public health nursing
Pollard. How? Because her original sketches
School’s archives, d’Errecalde’s career in
agencies throughout the United States.
are in the New School Archives.
fashion and her groundbreaking design for a nurse’s uniform can be celebrated.
When it was unveiled, Mainbocher’s bold
Edith d’Errecalde’s papers document her
new uniform, which featured a prominent
dynamic career as a fashion director, freelance
bow, ignited an image makeover for the
fashion designer, writer, and editor. After
studied at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris
nursing profession. A news article from the
working for Mainbocher, she started her own
before immigrating to the United States
era cites the designer’s attention to detail,
sportswear company, Maxmil; she later held
in 1939 and studying costume design at
noting the ensemble’s white coverall apron
positions at Evan-Picone and Cohama Fabrics.
Parsons. In 1941, d’Errecalde went to work for
and navy gabardine coat with “zip-in lining
D’Errecalde was also a critic and a lecturer at
Mainbocher, a Paris couture house established
of fireman red flannel.” The uniform was even
Parsons in 1969–1970.
by Chicago-born Main Rousseau Bocher. For
popularized in a national recruiting poster
11 years, she was in charge of Mainbocher’s
(shown on this page). In it, the nurse looks
life, but her influence on fashion and nursing
workroom and directed many of the fittings,
capable and empowered. The uniform looks
is clear. One can imagine d’Errecalde taking
as all work was made to order.
chic and stylish.
pride in dressing America’s essential workers—
Born in Strasbourg, France, d’Errecalde
In 1949, Mainbocher was enlisted to design a uniform amid a nursing shortage in the
Although Mainbocher took credit for the
Not much is known of d’Errecalde’s personal
impeccably and for impact.
designs, we now know that they are d’Errecalde’s 31
