RE:WIND

This recruiting poster, designed by James Schucker, popularized the nurse’s uniform Edith d’Errecalde designed for Mainbocher in 1949.

D’Errecalde’s practical but stylish new uniform aided in an effort to recruit 8,000 public health nurses in the United States.

Edith d’Errecalde’s original watercolor drawing for Mainbocher is housed in the New School archives.

Public Health Nurse’s Uniform

Edith d’Errecalde, Costume Design ’41

The name Edith d’Errecalde (1905–2002) is one that might easily have been lost to fashion history. But thanks to The New School’s archives, d’Errecalde’s career in fashion and her groundbreaking design for a nurse’s uniform can be celebrated.

Born in Strasbourg, France, d’Errecalde studied at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris before immigrating to the United States in 1939 and studying costume design at Parsons. In 1941, d’Errecalde went to work for Mainbocher, a Paris couture house established by Chicago-born Main Rousseau Bocher. For 11 years, she was in charge of Mainbocher’s workroom and directed many of the fittings, as all work was made to order.

In 1949, Mainbocher was enlisted to design a uniform amid a nursing shortage in the wake of World War II. The new uniform, it was hoped, would help in the effort to recruit the 8,000 nurses needed by public health nursing agencies throughout the United States.

When it was unveiled, Mainbocher’s bold new uniform, which featured a prominent bow, ignited an image makeover for the nursing profession. A news article from the era cites the designer’s attention to detail, noting the ensemble’s white coverall apron and navy gabardine coat with “zip-in lining of fireman red flannel.” The uniform was even popularized in a national recruiting poster (shown on this page). In it, the nurse looks capable and empowered. The uniform looks chic and stylish.

Although Mainbocher took credit for the designs, we now know that they are d’Errecalde’s work, possibly created in collaboration with Mainbocher illustrator and designer Douglas Pollard. How? Because her original sketches are in the New School Archives.

Edith d’Errecalde’s papers document her dynamic career as a fashion director, freelance fashion designer, writer, and editor. After working for Mainbocher, she started her own sportswear company, Maxmil; she later held positions at Evan-Picone and Cohama Fabrics. D’Errecalde was also a critic and a lecturer at Parsons in 1969–1970.

Not much is known of d’Errecalde’s personal life, but her influence on fashion and nursing is clear. One can imagine d’Errecalde taking pride in dressing America’s essential workers— impeccably and for impact.