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VOL. I, ISSUE VII, AUGUST 2010 Rs 60
Putting the zing back to exploring the world
Virgin beauty of
Murud
French connection, Indian style
Bengaluru for
MICE
Swatantra Bharat
Short stops at some cities associated with our freedom struggle
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CONTENTS
20 COVER
STORY
THE FREEDOM TRAIL COMPASS
VIRGIN BEAUTY
NEWS, LAUNCHES & DEALS
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We bring you the latest from the travel world: special packages, restaurant and hotel openings along with some attractive deals from across the globe.
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Away from the cacophony of everyday life, the serene beauty of the little beach town Murud, in Maharashtra, is simply breathtaking. AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
SHORT TAKES
MICE HUB
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PLAYING THE PERFECT HOST With the MICE fever fast gripping the travel industry; many cities are steadily emerging as popular MICE hubs, Bengaluru being one of them.
THE ZURI HOSPITALITY
Specifically built to cater to the unique needs of today's global business traveller and leisure seeker, The Zuri Whitefield is the destination where business is done in style.
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60 FOCUS EYE TALK See the repertoire of photographs clicked by Joydeep Das over his many trips.
On the occasion of India's 63 years of independence, we take you on a guided tour of the cities that played a major role during the freedom struggle, to give you an insight into what really was the action then and how has it transformed the cities over the years.
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WANDERLUST
MARVELLOUS MAURITIUS
Know more about the Phoolyar Village — the first settlement area of the Indian immigrants. VOL. I, ISSUE VII, AUGUST 2010 Rs 60
Putting the zing back to exploring the world
FOODICTION
70
TRULY SPECTACULAR
Murud
French connection, Indian style
Bengaluru for
MICE
Swatantra Bharat
Short stops at some cities associated with our freedom struggle
Cover Photo: Hariom Maurya
Cover Design: Jitendra Rawat
The photograph on page 18 of the July issue of Travel X captioned, ‘Kids love to splash in the rain’ was inadvertently credited to Sharmila Ghose instead of Dreamstime.com. — Editor
Sole Sales, Marketing & Distribution Concessionaire: Sampan Media Pvt. Ltd. 124, Shahpur Jat, New Delhi 110049. CEO : Ravi Sharma (Mob. 9650433900) Senior Manager (Marketing): Varun Malhotra (Mob. 9650433099) Sr Manager (Business Development): Pranav Khullar (Mob. 9650433088) Regional Sales Manager (South): Karthik K. V. (Mob. 9880209405) Editorial Office: Newsline Publications Pvt Ltd., D-11(Basement) Nizamuddin (East), New Delhi 110 013. Phones: +91-11-41033381-82 Mumbai: Platina, 9th floor, C-Block, G-59, Next to Citibank, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra (East), Mumbai 400051, Tel.: +91 22 3953 0528 email: travelxletters@gmail.com, travelx@newsline.in All information in TravelX is derived from sources we consider reliable. It is passed on to our readers without any responsibility on our part. Opinions/views expressed by third parties in abstract or in interviews are not necessarily shared by us. Material appearing in the magazine cannot be reproduced in whole or in part(s) without prior permission. The publisher assumes no responsibility for material lost or damaged in transit. The publisher reserves the right to refuse, withdraw or otherwise deal with all advertisements without explanation. All advertisements must comply with the Indian Advertisements Code. The publisher will not be liable for any loss caused by any delay in publication, error or failure of advertisement to appear. Owned and published by K Srinivasan, 4C, Pocket-IV, Mayur Vihar Phase-I, Delhi-91 and printed by him at Nutech Photolithographers, B-240, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-I, New Delhi-110020.
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
The seven-live-kitchen speciality restaurant at The Leela Kempinski, Gurgaon serves a wide range of global cuisine that can satiate many a wandering tasting buds.
Virgin beauty of
Volume I No 7
Editor: K SRINIVASAN Managing Editor: TIRTHANKAR GHOSH Co-ordinating Editor: PRIYANKA SAXENA Reporters: Punit Mishra, Jasleen Kaur Copy Editor: Ashok Kumar Special Correspondent - Mumbai: Roohi Ahmad (Mob. 09820295648) Design: Pradeep Jha, Ruchi Sinha, Jitendra Rawat, Shivnath Publishing Director: Rohit Goel Director (Admin & Corporate Affairs) : Rajiv Singh Subscription: Jaya Singh (Mob. 9650433044) Executive Director: Renu Mittal
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FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
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INDEPENDENCE ROCK MUSIC FESTIVAL
Venue: TBC and Chitrakoot Grounds, Mumbai Date: August 11-15, 2010 On Independence Day this year, I-Rock will be celebrating the completion of its 25 years. To celebrate the event, musicians who have performed at I-Rock over the last 25 years would be jamming and performing together on one stage. On August 11-12, there will be pub round — one band selected for national finale; while on August 13-15, open air concert will showcase national finale, global finale and pro performances. For more details, visit http://www.independencerock.in
FLORA EXPO 2010
VENUE: Palace Ground, Bengaluru DATE: August 20-22, 2010 One of the finest and biggest exhibitions on floriculture, nursery, landscape and greenhouse technology, in India as well as South Asia — the 6th International Flora Expo 2010 — will gather together conventional flower and gardening industry professionals and trade buyers from different kinds of large industry, including home centres, supermarkets, departmental stores and interior shops. The expo will provide an excellent opportunity to enhance business opportunities and collaborations. Flora Expo 2010 will be beneficial for the professionals of flora and agricultural industry to be familiar with new products, advanced techniques and devices, which are extremely effective and cost-efficient. Participating countries are Europe, Japan, UAE, USA, China, Taiwan, Thailand, other South-East Asian, Arabian countries etc. For further information, log on to http://www.floraexpo.com/
What’s happening around the country this month? Choose from the hottest events and shows taking place in different parts of India in the world of music, art, Entertainment and food.
BENGALURU SPACE EXPO VENUE: Bangalore International Exhibition Centre, Tumkur Road, Bengaluru Date: August 25-28, 2010 Hosted in the Silicon Valley of India, Bengaluru, the Bengaluru Space Expo 2010 will be showcasing the latest technological advancements, products and technical services and will provide the best platform for space agencies, academia, scientific community, specialists, entrepreneurs and space industry heavyweights to display their visions and discuss upon future commercial prospects for Asian and International Space Industry. Attending delegates can look forward to discuss the most up-to-date space applications, trends and research in the market. The second edition of Asia's exhibition on space technologies, products and innovations is being organised by Confederation of Indian Industry (CII). Bengaluru Space Expo 2010 would facilitate joint venture, technology transfer and marketing arrangements. For more details, log on to http://www.bsxindia.com/
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INDIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW
‘IMAGING ASIA’ FILM FESTIVAL
VENUE: The Instituto Cervantes, Alliance Francaise de Delhi and India Habitat Centre, New Delhi DATE: August 18 -22, 2010 Network for the Promotion of Asian Cinema (NETPAC) India and Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) are organising a five-day international conference and a series of cinemarelated events in the capital to broaden the scope and vision of Asian cinema. Symposia, screenings, workshops, cultural events will mark this event during which 30 films will be screened across multiple venues in Delhi. For more details, log on to http://www.netpacasia.org/imagingasia/schedule.html
Dance Competition — Zero Gravity '10 VENUE: Kovai Kalaiarangam, T V Swamy Road, R S Puram, Chennai DATE: August 28, 2010 Young talent, get ready! Channel One Kavya presents an inter schools and colleges dance competition. Timings are from 6pm to 9pm. Last date for registration is August 10. School/college winner will get Rs 10,000, while runner-up will get Rs 5,000. For more details, visit www.active24hr.com
INDIA TRAVEL MART
VENUE: Lake near Alappuzha, Kerala DATE: August 14, 2010 Kerala’s most looked-forward sporting event — the Nehru trophy boat race — is held in the Punnamada Lake near Alappuzha, Kerala. Attended by participants and tourists across the state, it is organised on the second Saturday of August every year and this year, Nehru trophy boat race is on August 14. The boats are decorated with colourful flags and silk parasols. The remarkable part of race is "Vanchipattu" — songs sung by singers on board to keep the boatmen’s spirits high. It is also an occasion to taste the famous traditional Malayali cuisine of appams, sea food, meat curries etc. Want to know more? Visit http://nehrutrophy.nic.in
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
VENUE: TBA, New Delhi DATE: August 26-28, 2010 India Travel Mart (ITM) brings people together to promote inbound, outbound and domestic tourism in a unique style thereby offering unlimited opportunities for everyone to explore the market and publicise their destinations/products/organisations at one place. The ITM also provides other services i.e. road shows, audio-visual presentations, conferences, travel agents and tour operators meet, corporate and business houses meet, press conferences, cultural evenings, etc for expanding business opportunities, global linkages, develop smart partnerships and potentially rewarding ventures. For more details, visit http://www.indiatravelmart.com/
NEHRU TROPHY BOAT RACE
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
VENUE: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai DATE: August 19-23, 2010 The India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) offers a unique opportunity to view the brightest and best that the country has to offer. Top models will flaunt some of India's most alluring jewellery in the spectacular fashion shows, to be held during IIJS. Visitors’ profile include jewellery whole-seller, jewellery retailer, jewellery manufacturer, jewellery designer, etc. While exhibitors’ profile include exhibitors from the world of diamond, pearl, platinum, gold, silver, antique jewellery, gemstones, etc. For more details, visit http://www.iijs.org/seminars.aspx
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LETTERS interesting read. Khajuraho, with its numerous temples and erotic sculptures, is truly worth a visit. The way Nandu Manjeshwar explained his journey, I actually felt as I was there. He has evocatively captured the pristine beauty of temples. I also liked the factfile boxes (where to stay, what to do, where to eat and how to reach), which I think is vital for any first-time traveller. I loved the story. Kudos to you! Kasturi, Mumbai
AH, FREEDOM…
W
hy do we travel? If our dear readers were to look deeply, it is simply because travel provides a sense of freedom. And what better way to lose ourselves amidst history than to rediscover ourselves again. We travel to distant lands and places nearer home to learn a little more — certainly more than what we read about in print and the Internet — about the world around us. That brings me to this Independence Day issue of your favourite TravelX. It is virtually impossible to encapsulate places associated with our freedom struggle in a magazine of 70-odd pages. But we have managed to package them for you, including a piece on Indian settlement in Mauritius, which is also linked to freedom and independence. We believe travel should enrich our minds. In fact, travelling becomes a joy when you leave all your “baggage of beliefs” behind and take a look at everything anew. That great travel writer Pico Iyer put it so brilliantly: “If a diploma can famously be a passport (to a journey through hard realism), a passport can be a diploma (for a crash course in cultural relativism). And the first lesson we learn on the road, whether we like it or not, is how provisional and provincial are the things we imagine to be universal.” Perhaps, the best gift that we can give our children is the desire to roam free. Only then will we learn to appreciate other cultures. In these days of strife and hatred, isn’t trying to be a more understanding and sociable being a wonderful attribute! Happy reading and bon voyage! Tirthankar Ghosh tghosh@newsline.in
I am regular reader of your magazine and every time I pick up the issue it seems I am on a wonderful journey while going through the pages. And this time also with a different concept… a different theme — monsoon was really an enjoyable read. For me, monsoon was just sitting in balcony and enjoying the rain with chai and pakoras, but your cover story “Monsoon Musings” gives completely a different picture… how different parts of country enjoys monsoon in different ways. And Gulzar’s poetry, I must say, brings the real feel of the monsoon. Pictures were truly complementary. Lastly, congratulations for cover — a perfect icing on the cake of the Travelx monsoon special issue. It’s really eye-candy! Virender Gill, Amritsar
The article “Carvings on stone” by Nandu Manjeshwar, made for an
First of all, the month’s article “Sinful indulgence” made me want to pack my bags and head out there for diamonds and chocolates. The more I read about it, the more I want to visit it. “The road to eternity” by Tanushree Podder was quite interesting to read. I was pleasantly surprised when I read about Mayfair and Mashaal. I did not know about both till I picked up the July issue of Travelx. I was happy to see travel insurance coverage in your magazine. You not only inform us about pleasure, but also guide us how to make that pleasure safe. Looking forward for more such new and unique articles in your store for us!
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
A Budget Business Hotel
1/1 West Patel Nagar, Opp. Metro Pillar No 209, New Delhi - 110008 (INDIA) Phone : -91-11-45671444 (100 lines) Mobile : -91-9811056396 Fax : 91-11-45671414
24 Hours Reservation : +91- 9811056396
www.clarkhotels.com E-mail : reservations@clarkhotels.com, clarkhotels@gmail.com
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SHORT TAKES
D I D Y O U K N O W ?
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
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DON’T MISS A luxurious yatra
House of crafts at T3
WHO WOULD have thought that a handicrafts’ outlet showcasing the best of Indian merchandise would open at the airport terminal? T3 and the Delhi Bazaar just did that! Delhi Bazaar — the nouvelle concept by Craft House, an exclusive luxury store at The Metropolitan Hotel exhibiting the colours and crafts of India — has been tagged as an exclusive Indian store concept at T3. With ‘Delhi’ as its central theme, the 4,000-sqfoot store will showcase the best of Indian merchandise, displayed in a hassle-free ambience, appealing to foreign as well as Indian travellers transiting through the terminal. According to Monisha Gupta, President, Craft House, Delhi Bazaar will be a holistic shopping experience for the travellers flying out of the city,
offering an exhaustive variety, comprising handicrafts, tea, spices, décor accessories to coffee table books, aroma, spa and spiritual products, ethnic wear etc. True to its name, the 24×7 bazaar, in tune with international trends, will portray several facets of exotic India in 10 shops. A shopper’s delight, it will also feature the famous Indian handwoven pashmina in an array of weaves, colours and prints, designer jewellery in precious gems and a variety in silk accessories, bags
GET READY to experience the eternal bliss in luxury style with Leisure Hotels. With the opening of the annual yatra to the popular Chardhams — Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath — Leisure Hotels brings first-of-its kind luxurytented accommodation at the Chardhams — the Chardhams Camps, offering amenities like weather proof tents, attached baths and toilets multi-cuisine dining facilities, guided visits to the shrines, first-aid at camps, escorted walk to nearby areas, well-structured activity blocks for aarti and more. You can avail Chardhams Camps per person per night on twin sharing basis for just Rs 2,750, including breakfast, lunch and dinner. Hurry! The package is valid till November 15, 2010.
A free night in New York
NYC & COMPANY, the official marketing, tourism and partnership organisation for the City of New York, with 16 hotels in The Signature Collection, a group of New York City luxury hotels, brings “Third Night Promotion” — a programme which gives visitors a complimentary third night stay in the participating hotels after they book and pay for two consecutive nights till September 5, 2010. The 16 hotels participating in ‘The Continued on page 10
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DON’T MISS
KICK OFF
Signature Collection Third Night’ programme are: The Carlyle, A Rosewood Hotel; Hotel Plaza Athénée New York; Loews Regency Hotel; The London NYC; Mandarin Oriental, New York; The Peninsula New York; The Pierre New York; The Plaza Hotel; The Ritz-Carlton New York, Battery Park; The RitzCarlton New York, Central Park; The Sherry-Netherland; The St. Regis New York; The Surrey; Trump International Hotel & Tower; Trump SoHo New York; and The Waldorf Towers. In addition, luxury retailer Saks Fifth Avenue has also confirmed its participation in the programme.
Hotel Suba lights up Andheri, Mumbai
A holy stay at Nashik
SUBA GROUP of Hotels has opened its third hotel, Hotel Suba International at Andheri in Mumbai. A three-star hotel with five-star comforts, the hotel claims and calls itself a deluxe Business Class hotel. Targeted to business clientele, the hotel is far removed from the frenetic pace of the city. Yet, it is no more than 15 minutes away from the international and domestic airports, and major arterial highways. Offering a choice of 72 exquisite
TAKE A break over this weekend with your family and friends and head for the scenic town of Nashik. Located on the Mumbai-Agra road, Lily Sarovar Portico offers an elegant retreat amidst lush landscaped gardens, picturesque ghats and rock-cut temples. The 42 guest rooms offer all modern conveniences to make the stay most comfortable and enjoyable. The interesting dining options at the hotel are bound to keep the food enthusiast occupied while the bar offers a perfect setting to raise a toast with friends and family. The hotel also enjoys proximity to the famous town of Shirdi. Avail the package for one night/two days for just Rs 3,499, including accommodation for two adults and two children below five years of age, welcome drink, breakfast and lunch/dinner on buffet/fixed menu basis, special rates available for local sight-seeing tour and up to 15 per cent discount on restaurant dining. The offer is valid till September 30, 2010.
rooms in Deluxe and Suite category along with six banquet halls, a multi-cuisine restaurant ‘Cinnamon’, Sheesha lounge, Roof Garden on the terrace for parties, the hotel promises unmatched facilities for business clients. Presentations can be made on LCD screens from up to 16 laptops that get hooked up on the conference tables. State-of-the-art amenities include surround sound and video-conferencing facilities.
Host your cocktail party at Keya
SURE TO stir your senses and add a completely new dimension to a cocktail party, Keya, from the celebrated chef, restaurateur and owner of the restaurant Magique, has already become the talk of the capital. Providing an extensive bar menu, Keya puts
forward innovative cocktails created specially by the chef ’s prolific imagination. With the Keya Signature cocktails, one may go down the memory lane with the bubblegum flavoured Bubblicious Daiquiri, or re-live the sour tongue-tickling memories of aampanna with a classic desi aam-panna cocktail, a must try for the curious and the fearless. The “Keya magic” which aptly is a blend of paan and vodka is a sure shot winner! An extensive wine menu allows you to lose yourself in the silken tastes of scarlet
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GASTRONOMIC DELIGHT Frozen I-Day @ Ice Lounge
CELEBRATING THE celebrations of Independence Day, let join in the celebration and enjoy a frozen Independence Day @ a temperature of -5 degree Celsius only at Ice Lounge, Delhi with assorted platters, salads, soups, cocktails, and mocktails all in tri-colour, including Mezze Platter, Crispy Fried Prawns, Chicken Tariyaki, Shish Taouck (Arabic spiced grilled chicken and bell peppers served with pita bread and garlic dips) and salad and soups like Almond and Broccoli, Roasted Pepper and Basil Soup with Garlic Crostini. The choices available are galore. So, get ready for the Independence Day — enjoy, celebrate and pay tribute for just Rs
2,000 per couple.
Texas and Mexican flavour at TGIF
TGI FRIDAY’S is all set to entice the guests with a new Tex Mex menu, which includes three appetizers and three entrées, featuring flavours from both sides of the border. The appetizers comprise Fish Quesadilla - Grilled fish, pico de gallo, tart apples and Monterey Jack cheese; Quesadilla Tenderloin Pineapple Habanero - Tenderloin slow simmered with beer, layered with roasted red pepper and habanero sauce and pineapple with Monterey Jack cheese; and Roasted Vegetable Goat Cheese Quesadilla and Monterey Jack cheeses, ripe tomato and basil layered in crisp flour tortilla. Served with mango lime slaw, all three appetizers are priced at Rs 250, Rs 280 and Rs 200 respectively. While three entrees include Fish Vera Cruz; Bean Curd Mushroom Pepper and Chicken Mushroom Peppers — all priced between Rs 300 and Rs 500. So hurry to your nearest TGI Friday’s with friends and family to party and experience some sensational selections at great prices before that are all gone!
Chakh le India!
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
Gourmet magic in the air
IS IT POSSIBLE to recreate the luxury of an authentic Chinese cuisine 30,000 feet above the ground? If you are a Dragonair traveller, your answer is likely to be in the affirmative. Because Dragonair with its new partnership with the Michelin-starred Lei Garden restaurant has launched an in-flight promotional menu, featuring Chinese dishes. The menu will be featured in all classes of travel from Hong Kong to Beijing and Shanghai, as well as in First and Business Classes from Hong Kong to Taipei and Kaohsiung, until July 2011. The new in-flight menu includes Spicy Mustard Tuber, Marinated Prawn with Spicy Tribute Vegetable, Sautéed Wild Mushrooms, Braised Prawn with Shrimp Paste and Coconut Sauce, Chinese Style Panfried Minute Beef Steak, Braised Pork Meat Ball with Chinese Rice Wine and Basil, Stewed Chicken with Ginger and Honey and lots more.
THIS INDEPENDENCE Day celebrate the richness and authenticity of the Indian Heritage Food @ AQUUM, a dining restaurant in the capital where heritage cuisine is prepared by Qureshi brothers, the sommeliers of the Awadhi cuisines. Imbibed with the authentic Indian spices and prepared in the traditional Dum Pukht method, AQUUM presents ‘I Love My India Platter’ with a non-veg and veg options. A non-veg platter serves you the delectable kebabs — Barra Kebab; Murgh Chandi Tikka and Kasturi Kebab, while the vegetarian platter includes the scrumptious Paneer Dudhiya Kebabs and Harra Kebabs. I Love My India Platter also includes the tantalising Tiranga Brulee, which is phirnee with flavours of Pistachio and Saffron served with plush Blue Berry sauce. And to keep you up for the day it also offers Independence Day special, luscious I63 Mocktail. So, make this Independence Day all the more special. Come with your friends and savour the authentic meal at AQUUM till August 15, 2010, for just Rs 1,500 (excluding drinks) for two.
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SPA HAVEN Pamper your senses, this monsoon
SPOIL YOURSELF this monsoon to the especially designed ila spa treatments at ‘The Spa’ at the Four Seasons Hotels, and drive away the monsoon blues. Refresh and detox with the customised treatments designed to ease tension and relieve stress. The 75 minutes Kundalini back massage is priced at Rs 4,200 with the use of body scrub for energising and detoxifying (for foot soak) and Kundalini Oil; while rainforest rejuvenation facial is for Rs 3,800. This 60-minute facial contains face serum, eye serum, day cream, night cream and Amazonian mask with rainforest extracts. There is also pregnancy scrub and massage worth Rs 5,500 to bring peace and joy to both mum and baby. For couples, there is ila Immersion, a 150-minute blissful experience of combined Kundalini back massage and the rainforest rejuvenation facial for just Rs 14,900. For reservations, call at 022-24818000.
Ease the aches with Amatrra
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With the induction of a new Airbus 320 aircraft in its fleet, IndiGo is all set to operate six new flights on the Delhi, Bengaluru, Kolkata and Kochi routes. The airline will operate its fifth flight on the Delhi-Kolkata-Delhi sector, while the third non-stop flight on the Kolkata-Bengaluru-Kolkata sector will be functional shortly. In addition, Kochi will be connected with Bengaluru and Kolkata. Thomas Cook (India) Ltd (TCIL), a travel and travel-related financial services company, has launched nine foreign exchange and travel counters in the newly opened Terminal 3 at Delhi airport. The one stop shop counters by Thomas Cook will not only offer foreign exchange services to the passengers but also all travelrelated products and services such as insurance, air and rail tickets, domestic and international travel packages, hotel bookings and many more. Additionally, there are five counters in the departure level, including one in international SHA. In arrivals section, there are four counters, two of which are located inside the customs area, directly opposite to baggage belts and the other two counters are located in arrival lounge (outside the customs area). Advance planning can make a journey more enjoyable and hasslefree. Passengers who travel with additional baggage can now enjoy a discount when they plan ahead. Emirates has launched a new prepaid additional baggage tool on its website, which represents a 15 per cent reduction on standard airport rates and is only applicable for purchases on www.emirates.com San Francisco International Airport (SFO) customer service volunteers are now staffing the Federal Inspection Services (FIS) facility to assist customers arriving from international flights. Currently, 40 of the airport’s 200 volunteers have signed up and are being given training by Customs and Border Protection (CBP) staff to speak a total of 12 different languages, including Hindi, Urdu, Punjabi and Hindustani — and will be scheduled so that their language skills will be fully utilised.
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
THIS RAINY season, Amatrra brings the solution to the kinds of aches and pain that monsoon brings along with the lovely rain. Relax your senses with Amatrra that will help you retain your elegant appearance and health in this season. Abhyanga, a full body Ayurvedic massage done in classical Kerala style using warm, medicated herbal oil is worth Rs 3,100. While, Choorna Sweedanam, heat revival by herbal powders are bound into a muslin pouch, soaked in warm medicated oils and applied externally in a full body massage is priced at Rs 3,200. Swellings on joints can be cured with Choorna Sweedanam. An oil treatment on the forehead and scalp, preceded by a neck-and-shoulder massage is Shiro Dhara, which is particularly beneficial in the treatment of insomnia, sleep disorders and stress, priced at Rs 3,500. Another treatment Tan Lepam is a sensuous fullbody treatment begins with fragrant oil being dripped on the base of the spine, followed by an earth mineral scrub. The body is covered in Tan Lepa paste. The treatment ends with a warm shower and flower lotion. You can avail this treatment for Rs 3,100.
SPEED READER
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Express your way with
ABOUT THE EXPRESSWAY‌
Radisson
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
Talks about the expressway between Noida and Agra, to be or not to be, have been going on for quite some time. There is no denying the fact that once the expressway do comes in motion, the travelling time from Noida to Agra will come down from five hours to just two hours. So, will it? You bet! Work on the project, scheduled for full completion only by April 2013, is being speeded up to get ready for a smooth ride to world wonder Taj Mahal. The six-lane Taj expressway, built from Pari Chowk in Greater Noida to Agra, will provide seamless journey of 165km, covering
three-fourth of the total distance of 203km, between Delhi and Agra. Not just the inter-city travel, the project will also help de-congesting the traffic within the national capital region. It will interlink the townships and commercial centres on the eastern side of Yamuna, in Delhi. JP Infratech is contractually bound to complete the road along with all facilities. So will this expressway have an impact on tourism as well? "The expressway is an excellent move that will reduce the commuting time to Agra by almost half. A major chunk of tourists come to Delhi for the love of Taj, and when they would know that doing that is not possible with just 4-5 hours of travelling in all, they are bound
to leap at the opportunity and give a further boost to the arrivals in the country," says Vijay Thakur, President, IATO. Supporting his views, Gaur Kanjilala, Secretary, IATO says, "The expressway will make seamless travel a reality. It will be a modern roadway that will put us in the league of western transportation system. Once completed, the expressway will connect two heritage cities and make the world wonder even more accessible for the tourists. However, we have to ensure safety on that road, all the while make sure that there are proper signages, good landscaping and that the road is properly illuminated during the night."
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FACTFILE ROOMS AND SUITES 175 rooms, 8 executive suites, 2 deluxe suites, 11 junior suites FOOD AND BEVERAGES ❁ Cross Avenue ❁ Satin ❁ Mints ❁ Herbs and Spice ❁ The Crystal Bar ❁ Club Lounge SPA TREATMENTS Experience various spa treatments in private massage suites ranging from traditional Ayurvedic to classical Swedish massages to rejuvenate your senses.
ABOUT THE RADISSON, GREATER NOIDA
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
Imagine this. You are a tourist who nurses the great desire to see the Taj in India and come all the way to experience its grandeur. The normal route that almost all tourists follow is to catch the early morning Shatabdi Express to Agra. The drill forces you to get up at 4:30 in the morning, get ready for your day trip, pick your packed breakfast from the reception of your hotel and head to the railway station, just in time to catch the train. Now picture this. You reach your hotel late in the night, jet lagged and dying to crash into bed. You sleep long and take the rest your body requires. Get fresh in the morning, enjoy a sumptuous breakfast at your hotel and then board the coach which will take you see the world wonder Taj Mahal an also ensure that you get to spend more time at the
monument and not huff and puff your way through the city in your hurry to catch the evening train! Sounds good, doesn't it? Well, this is exactly what Radisson Greater Noida promises you. Radisson Hotels & Resorts, one of world's leading full service hotel companies owned by Carlson Hotels Worldwide, is known for its excellent service, making it stand apart from the rest. Located amidst beautifully landscaped greens, the hotel is just three km from the Taj Expressway that connects Greater Noida to Agra in two hours. With contemporary architecture, warm hospitality and of course, convenient location, the hotel is sure to be an ideal place for both leisure and business traveller. The hotel, with its 175 rooms, including eight executive suites, two deluxe suites and 11 junior suites, promises a memorable stay to its visitors in truly 'Radisson' style. Elegantly furnished interiors provide contemporary ambience to pamper you and to take you to new heights of relaxation during your stay. Well-thought out amenities and facilities, including flat screen TV, DVD player, tea/coffee maker, minibar, hair dyer, electronic safe, internet connection and international direct dialing, ensure optimum comfort in every room. Radisson leaves you spoilt for array of ultimate gastronomic choices — Cross Avenue, Satin, Mints, Herbs and Spice, The Crystal Bar and Club Lounge. Exhausted? Experience spa treatments — from Ayurvedic to Swedish massages, enjoy a swim or work out at fitness centre. While to host your entire gatherings, Victora banquet hall is ideal venue. With two part division, it can accommodate a total of 350 guests in theatre style.
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FIR
(FIRST INFORMATION REPORT)
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Sail on the Bengal Pandaw YOU HAVE chugged through this route on wheels many a time, but undertaking the journey on a cruise, all the way from Kolkata to Varanasi promises to be quite an experience. Pandaw Cruises India (P) Ltd successfully operated all 10 scheduled upstream and downstream departures in its first season, which was last year. Standing on the brink of its second season, all geared to kick-start this year, the going already looks smooth for them, thanks to the advance bookings that have virtually sealed the season for them. Bengal Pandaw was designed as a replica of the colonial style ‘Clyde’ steamers that at the height of Empire trudged through swamps and far-flung deltas; in particular, similar ships employed were used by a succession of important officials and celebrities of the day, most notably recorded as being used by Viceroys of India and the Prince of Wales. Shining Teak and Brass-lined state rooms opening onto similarly equipped promenade decks with rattan sitting areas. The 28 state rooms today ensure a fantastically comfortable and elite travelling style. ‘Improvements’ to meet today’s needs such as the saloon bar, dining room and observation deck are crucial facets of enhancing what otherwise would be longdistance road travel, that can be arduous and frustrating at best of times. The sailing season is from October to March/April, depending on weather and river conditions. During the season, the ship sails once every month from Kolkata
and Varanasi for its 14 nights/15 days tour. While the cruise and the sailing promise an unforgettable journey, the duration of the sail makes it an unlikely option for the Indians. Thus, Pandaw cruises have chalked out a trip to Mayapur (two nights/three days), which will include stopovers at Kalna and Chandernagore. This trip is largely targeted to Indian customers. Though the exact dates haven’t been fixed, the first sailing is likely to take place in May 2011. Whatever your interests, there is nothing that the Ganges can’t tempt you with. Village life, colourful festivals, amazing archaeological sites, museums, temples, wonderful sceneries and a rich tapestry of natural history, which can be observed as the ship proceeds steadily along are just some of the attractions of the cruise. This ‘diamond in the rough’ harbours some of the large endangered mammals such as Bluebull and Blackbuck Antelope, Wild Boar, Jackal, Bengal Fox, Jungle Cat, Rhesus Macaques, Grey Langurs and for those with sharp eyes good chances of Indian Mongoose. Not only the banks, but the channel itself hosts over 90 species of fish, Smooth Indian Otters, Terrapins and Tortoises as well as healthy populations of River Dolphins. Thousands of migratory ducks can be seen, as well as Indian Skimmers, Storks, River Lapwings, Kingfishers and birds of prey. For more details, log on to www.pandaw.com
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All izzz well
WARY, I was, when the trip to visit Thailand came about. Though we were assured that the red shirt ambush is now over and that the city lies in peace, a trickle of anticipation stayed with me throughout on my flight from Mumbai to Bangkok. It was a quiet ride from the airport to the hotel and my heart sank a little as I realised that all is indeed not well in the Thai region, not realising that the fact that it was past midnight, and it is time that perhaps could be responsible for the stillness. After a hearty breakfast and a reassuring nod from my hotel staff later, I decided to hit the streets of Bangkok and what greeted me was a completely different sight! Gone was the ghostly silence and quiet expanse. What stood before me was a city bustling with life, and I could spot not only the local people, but also many touristy faces adding to the
euphoria. Since shopping for people back home was high on my agenda, I decided to hit the most famous M2K mall and was once again amazed to witness huge crowd frolicking through the area. Shopkeepers were busy, bargaining was on, up for grabs were a wide range of items and when I saw that even the food court was brimming with people, I knew that for Thailand, the worst is over. It was not just the mall area that was thronged by people, but even popular shopping streets like the Indira Market and the Sukhumvit Street were bustling with life. As I took in the happy faces of the tourists around me, saw them loaded with shopping bags and little kids enjoying ice cream with not a worry in the world, I felt a sense of déjà vu — yes I could see and say safely now that All izz indeed well in Thailand!
(Roohi Ahmad was in Thailand as a guest of the Thai Tourism Board )
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DON’T MISS
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A tea for every
TAIWAN IS a place where tea is not only a drink but a culture — the tea culture which can be traced back to the roots of Chinese tea culture. Offering tea is not just about preparing and serving but also involves etiquettes at every step. There is an art of tea appreciation in Taiwan in four seasons — spring, summer, autumn and winter. Green Pouchong Tea indicates spring and is greenish-yellow in colour, Red Jade Black Tea which indicates summer is reddish in colour, Osmanthus King’s Tea, indicating autumn has yellowish hue and Dark Ginseng Oolong King’s Tea, indicating winter, gives shadowy amber hue. Not only are the colours different, but when tea brews, even the aroma is altered. This cycle
exemplifies the perennial sequence and rhythm of nature. Tea has been growing in Taiwan for more than two centuries and during this time local farmers have created a variety of unique teas and blends that have become popular both at home and overseas. Apart from four seasons tea, the culture of Taiwan tea features another kind of tea which remains available in all seasons, which is bubble tea. Bubble tea is a sweetly flavoured cold beverage invented in Taiwan in the 1980s. These teas are shaken well to mix the ingredients of either milk or fruits, creating foam on top of some varieties, hence the name.
Bonding over fun times
IT’S TIME to indulge in family fun with Singapore’s myriad attractions and enriching experiences. With so much to choose from, SOTC has handpicked some of the best new experiences for a unique discovery each day. Book your family on the SOTC four nights/five days Singapore Family Bonding Package for Rs 66,750 onwards per adult and Rs 49,800 onwards per child; valid till September 30, 2010. For more details log onto www.sotc.in
Go shopping in Malaysia
THE 2010 MALAYSIA Mega Sale Carnival has swept the nation up in a frenzied shopping fervour! Running till September 15, 2010, the sale carnival brings you bargains on various merchandise from home grown products, exotic local handicrafts, funky fashion-wear, the latest gadgets and tempting dining experiences to fabulous holiday packages. Making your shopping experience even more worthwhile is the fact that many of the retail goods are tax exempted or duty free. The fun spills over from the big shopping centres onto the roads where street markets and bazaars buzz with a fusion of colours, sounds and of course, more bargains. So, on top of picking up some superb buys, you can also experience Malaysian street shopping at its best!
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Jai ho!
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Much has been achieved in the last 63 years since our nation got independence. From a staggering nation, just learning to find its feet, to one of the leading developing countries that is fast providing competition to the developed ones, India has indeed come a long way. Here’s a look at some of the Indian cities that played a major role in our struggle for independence. If you are a travel aficionado and also have a passion for history, a trip to these cities will not only take you back in time but also satiate the traveller’s need in you…
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX (PHOTOS BY HARIOM MAURYA)
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Lahore… Then and now Lahore is a city steeped in rich history and is commonly referred to as the “cultural capital of Pakistan”. Is it a popular cliché or a statement of fact? Maybe a little bit of both!
BUSHRA SULTANA
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AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
he old Lahore is a picture of the Mughal legacy with the awe-inspiring structures of Badshahi Mosque and Lahore Fort. Right opposite the remnants of the Mughals is the symbol of Sufi Islam — the shrine of saint Data Ganj Baksh. When the British captured Punjab and marched towards Lahore, they set up their first barracks in Lahore Fort and near old Anarkali bazaar until they could make alternate, more permanent arrangements. Colonel Napier planned and built the barracks in Mian Mir Cantonment. The infamous Mall Road was also constructed to connect the old city with the new barracks. Thus was laid the foundation of the new Lahore. The new Lahore — outside the wall surrounding the old city — was built by the British between 1850 and 1935 and was sprinkled with magnificent colonial buildings. The buildings of Government College, Mayo School of Arts (now National College of Arts), Lahore High Court, Aitcheson School and College, Lawrence Hall, General Post Office and the Lahore Museum, all provide an overwhelming evidence of the city’s colonial legacy. They are comfortably nestled in the city’s busiest commercial areas serving as colleges, schools and government offices. These buildings have a strong presence in the daily lives of Lahoris; when I asked people on the road for a list of buildings built by the British, I was promptly given a few names. However, to the follow-up question about the historical places significant during the freedom movement, the most obvious and the only answer I
received was Minar-e-Pakistan at Iqbal Park. Iqbal Park, formerly known as Minto Park, comprises large luscious gardens next to the Badshahi Mosque and the Lahore Fort. This park is significant because the historic annual session of All-India Muslim League was held here from March 22 to 24, 1940. It was during this session that the Lahore Resolution (now famously known as Pakistan Resolution) was passed. In 1960, the foundation was laid for a monument to commemorate the passage of this resolution. Minar-e-Pakistan is a towering 60metre structure with a 10-petal base which sits approximately 30 feet high. It was completed in 1968 and since then has become one of the most iconic symbols of post-British Pakistan. The text of the Lahore Resolution has been inscribed in English, Urdu and Bengali at the base of the minar along with Quranic inscriptions and the 99 Islamic names of God written in calligraphy. There are two crescent-shaped pools on either side of the minar. Another, lesser-known place which played a more prolonged role in the freedom movement for 40-odd years is the now-forgotten Bradlaugh Hall. Situated near the district courts of Lahore, the access to the hall is through a small alley flanked with shops, which leads to the open courtyard of the building. Envisioned by Charles Bradlaugh, who supported the independent movement of the Indians, the construction of the hall was finally completed in 1900 after Bradlaugh’s death. The hall is unique for its multi-purpose role; it was used for meetings, to plan strategies against the British rule, holding seminars and even staging plays. Some historians believe that the 1929 annual session of the Congress Party was also held here. This was the session during which Jawaharlal Nehru, the then President of Congress,
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HOW TO REACH BY AIR Allama Iqbal International Airport, Jinnah International Airport and Islamabad International Airport are the three main airports connecting the city by air. Some of the airlines that serve Lahore are Airblue, Shaheen Air International, Aero Air International, British Airways, Emirates Airlines, Qatar Airways, Sas Scandinavian Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Pakistan International Airlines, Thai Airways, Uzbekistan Airways and others few more. Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) operates flights between Delhi and Lahore twice weekly. BY RAIL The Samjhauta Express runs on Fridays and Tuesdays from the capital city of India, Delhi. The train crosses the Attari or the Wagah border on its way. BY ROAD Excellent bus service makes travel easy in Lahore. Major Pakistani cities are connected with Lahore through these bus services. Besides this, luxury tourist buses are also available.
PLACES TO SEE Lahore Fort, Badshahi Mosque, Lahore Museum, Jallo Bagh, Wagah Border, Minar-e-Pakistan and Anarkali’s Tomb.
PLACES TO STAY
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Ancient city Lahore has got two options for the travellers — hotels and guesthouses. However, budget, midrange and luxury hotels can be found, though they are not large in numbers. Visit http://travel.yahoo.com/p-hotel487647-lahore_hotels-i for more details.
SHADMAN FOUNTAIN CHOWK
MINAR-E-PAKISTAN
declared that “complete freedom” (poorna swaraj) from the British was now to be the aim of the party. After the session, the participants headed in a procession to the nearby banks of River Ravi and erected the national flag of India among deafening chants of “inqlaab zindabaad” (long live the revolution). Lahore, with its rich political and cultural heritage, is the city where Bhagat Singh, one of the most prominent Punjabi freedom fighters, was tried and hanged. Bhagat Singh and B K Dutt had been arrested in Delhi after they threw bombs inside the Legislative Assembly in Delhi. After being sentenced to life and moved to Lahore Central Jail, Bhagat Singh and his compatriots were tried for the murder of J P Saunders who was responsible for the deathly lathi-charge on Lala Lajpat Rai. Bhagat Singh, Shivaram Rajguru and Sukhdev Thapar were sentenced to death. Following the sentencing, petitions were filed against the decision and the political leaders tried to lobby for the lives of the would-be martyrs. But these warriors refused to plead for mercy and were subsequently hanged on the March 23 evening. The bodies were quickly removed and sent to be cremated. This portion of the Central Jail is today a residential and commercial colony of Shadman. There is a fountain chowk (also called Shadman Chowk) near the area of the phansi-ghaat. Repeated requests have been made by historians, civil society people and visiting Indian guests to rename this Chowk in the memory of Shaheed Bhagat Singh. Unfortunately, apart from Bradlaugh Hall, there is no physical
memorial to pay homage to the Punjab’s fallen heroes. Even the Lahore offices of All-India Muslim League and Congress Party have not been preserved. There is no trace of them. From the British side, barrack no. 4 is the most important construction in the freedom movement. Built in 1851 after Punjab was captured, this barrack is where the British army planned and fought the 1857 War of Independence. After the partition, the then Corps Commander of Lahore, General Tikka Khan, proposed to turn this barrack into a military museum. However, the plan did not materialise. Now, neglected and forsaken, this barrack is currently being razed to the ground. The authorities claim it is a risk to the neighbouring residential area because of its rundown condition. After this barrack is bulldozed, the only remnant of the first four barracks in Lahore will be the ones inside Lahore Fort. It is unfortunate that a city, famous for its Mughal/colonial architecture and cultural life, has been unable to preserve the significant buildings which served the freedom fighters during their quest. Minar-e-Pakistan is a tribute to the creation of a separate homeland for Muslims and not necessarily a landmark for the fight against the colonisers. All other testaments of the freedom movement have slowly dropped out of sight. Soon their faded images will remain only in our memories with no physical monuments to pay the kind of homage to our martyrs which they deserve. (PHOTOS BY BUSHRA SULTANA AND OMAIR ALAM)
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Mumbai
The independence movement, which was first kindled in North India with the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857, paved the way for Delhi’s emergence as the political epicentre of India and the focal point of India’s freedom struggle. However, many other Indian cities also played their part, and one of them was Bombay (as it was called then). The arrival of the then England-educated Barrister Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi to the shores of Bombay in 1915 heralded the launch of organised mass movements against the British in India. SUNIL VAIDYANATHAN
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Mahatma. This institute was set up in 1942, with the help of Dadabhai Naoroji’s granddaughters Perin Captain and Goshi Captain, to promote the Hindi language. Gandhi believed that Urdu and Sanskrit were far beyond the linguistic abilities of most people, while Hindi was a unique reflection of both. Today, the institute is a friendly place and attracts many foreign students. The Chowpatty Beach, which is also near Marine Drive, is associated with the famous Dandi March — an agitation that was launched to protest the salt tax imposed by the British. Since Gandhi had forbidden women from accompanying him on the Dandi March to Sabarmati, thousands of women in Bombay led by the freedom fighters Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay and the Captain sisters, decided to make salt at Chowpatty Beach and at the saline marshes in Wadala. Kasturba Gandhi, K F Nariman, and Yusuf Meheraully were the other torchbearers of
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efore the arrival of Mahatma Gandhi to Bombay, the freedom struggle largely comprised spontaneous uncoordinated efforts that were easily subdued. He transformed the Indian National Congress (then mainly a body of self-centred elite Indians) into a group of committed individuals who worked at the grassroots to ensure that the freedom struggle became a mass movement. Mani Bhavan on
Laburnum Road in south Bombay is associated with many landmark events and ideologies of the freedom struggle. Mahatma Gandhi stayed here between 1917 and 1934, whenever he visited Bombay. It was from the terrace of this two-storied structure that Gandhi was arrested on January 4, 1932. Encompassing a museum and research centre, it has more than 50,000 books on the Mahatma and his life now. You can also buy Gandhi memorabilia here, such as stamps brought out in his honour. Children love to walk around the tableaux depicting the Mahatma’s life story — from his birth in Porbandar to his assassination in Delhi. Not far from Mani Bhavan, Hindustani Prachar Sabha off Marine Drive is another iconic structure associated with the
THE FAMOUS CHOWPATTY BEACH WAS WHERE THE DANDI MARCH TOOK PLACE
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(LEFT) DANDI MARCH PIONEERED BY MAHATMA GANDHI DURING HIS VISIT TO BOMBAY; (RIGHT) THE MANI BHAVAN IN MUMBAI ASSOCIATED WITH MANY LANDMARK EVENTS OF FREEDOM STRUGGLE
HOW TO REACH BY AIR The city has an international airport and a domestic airport both named after Chhatrapati Shivaji. The international airport is located off the Western Express Highway about 25km from Colaba. The domestic airport is situated at Santa Cruz. BY RAIL Mumbai is well connected by rail with almost all cities in India. The Central Railway is headquartered at Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. CST, Mumbai Central, Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (LTT) and Dadar stations are major railway stations in Mumbai. BY ROAD Mumbai is connected by good network of roads with all major places in and around the city. Private and state government run long-distance buses are available for neighbouring cities. Private long-distance buses depart for all points from Dr Anadrao Nair Road, near Mumbai Central Railway Station. State-run longdistance buses depart from Mumbai Central Bus Terminal, close to the Mumbai Central Railway Station.
PLACES TO SEE Gateway of India, Elephanta Island, Haji Ali Dargah, Jehangir Art Gallery, Prince of Wales Museum, Marine Drive, Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat, Hanging Gardens and Juhu Beach.
PLACES TO STAY Mumbai is a travellers’ delight. The city has got ample 5-star deluxe hotels, 5-star hotels, 4-star hotels, 3star hotels and budget hotels in its kitty. Check out http://www.cleartrip.com/hotels/indi a/mumbai/ for more details.
the salt movement. Chowpatty Beach is also one of the venues for the immersion rituals during Mumbai’s famous Ganesh Chaturthi; but this festival’s connection with the independence struggle runs deeper. To prevent a repeat of the mutinous rebellion of 1857, a law was passed, which prohibited large groups of people from congregating in public places. Bal Gangadhar Tilak, one of India’s true patriots, did not take this lightly and decided to shatter the imperialistic arrogance of the Raj. The ban did not extend to religious festivities and under the garb of a cultural event, Tilak used the Ganesh festival to spread the awareness of a national identity among people, which intensified the freedom struggle. One of the most magnificent relics of the Raj era, the iconic High Court building is also linked to Tilak. While defending himself against the charge of sedition he coined his famous slogan: “Swaraj is my birthright, and I shall have it!” This is now inscribed on a plaque in the chief justice’s chamber. Horniman Circle in Churchgate is named after Ben Horniman, the proindependence editor of the Bombay Chronicle, who openly spoke about the excesses of the Raj, especially in connection with the Jallianwala Bagh massacre. He was promptly deported, but a statue was later erected in his memory, on the lawns of the garden. Further ahead, on a parallel road was a quaint Parsi restaurant called ‘Wayside Inn’, where Dr Ambedkar drafted the Indian Constitution. Mumbai’s numerous green lungs — its maidans — were also venues for agitations connected to the freedom struggle.
After the 1857 Mutiny was quelled, it was at the Esplanade (now Azad Maidan) that two sepoys were executed on charges of sedition by cannons under orders of the police chief Charles Forjett. They were among the first martyrs of the freedom struggle. Other maidans have played their role too. The maidan opposite to the Tejpal Hall hosted the first session of the Indian National Congress (INC) in 1885. The Quit India Movement, which was one of the most tenacious freedom movements in India, was also launched here in August 1942. The elegant Oval Maidan later hosted the 20th INC session in 1904. One structure in Mumbai has been a mute witness to both, the entry and unceremonious exit of the British. The Gateway of India, which is one of the iconic symbols of Mumbai, was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to Bombay, prior to the Delhi Durbar in December 1911. Ironically, when the Raj ended in 1947, this colonial symbol also became a sort of epitaph, as the last British ships that set sail for England left from the Gateway. (PHOTOS BY SUNIL VAIDYANATHAN)
GATEWAY OF INDIA
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Yeh dilli hai
THE RED FORT NARRATES TALES OF THE MUGHAL RULE IN INDIA
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It did not face any bloody massacre, nor was it the centre of any burning public protest, but Delhi, simply by its virtue of being declared the capital in 1911, has a narration that runs far deeper in matters of history, beauty, archaeology, anarchy and hierarchy. People, who saw the Delhi that was during the independence, say it’s not the same. So what really has changed in these last 63 years? let’s find out.
PRAN NEVILE
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elhi’s seven cities, the seats of empire, made it an important hub during the British rule and thus, in 1857, when almost twothird of India came under their control, the British shifted their headquarters to Delhi, and soon after, in December 1911, shifted their capital from Kolkata to Delhi. As the decision to build the eighth city of Delhi was formed, search for a good location led the British to lay the foundation stone at Kingsway Camp, only to be removed later and shifted to Raisina Road, around which, Delhi’s eighth city — New Delhi — was decided to be built. With Lutyens and Baker as the key architects, the task about making up of New Delhi was started with full gusto that took as many as 20 years of arduous work to complete. The area of New Delhi was called DIZ — Delhi Imperial Zone. Here no procession, no protest and no opposition were allowed or could take place in the British rule. India Gate, which at that time was called the War Memorial, was the privilege of the few. British had learned the hierarchy and the
caste system from India and used it judiciously to keep their workmen at bay. The imperial Delhi was way out of reach of the commoner in the 1930s. The Connaught Place, which today pulsates with life, was devoid of any Indian food and Indian movie in the inner circle for many years as per the instructions by its then rulers. The only Indian touch to the place during the pre-independence time was a Laxmi Restaurant in the outer circle and later on, a Nirulas was added for company. Not many of us know that New Delhi, which was designed by Lutyens and Baker and planned by the British, was done keeping a population of 40,000 - 50,000 in mind. Well, no wonder the city is in a bad condition, juggling to create space at every corner. Delhi today
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30 HOW TO REACH BY AIR Delhi is easily accessible from different parts of the country and is also well connected from major cities in South Asia, with over 65 airlines linking it to most major destinations across the world as well as India. BY RAIL Delhi is very well connected with the rest of India by trains. The city has three major railway stations — New Delhi Railway Station, Old Delhi Railway Station or Purani Dilli Railway Station and Hazrat Nizamuddin — that cater to a wide gamut of railway connections. For more details, please see www.indianrail.gov.in BY ROAD Delhi is conveniently connected to the rest of the country by regular bus services that run from the Inter State Bus Terminals. The major ones are the Maharana Pratap ISBT in the north, Sarai Kale Khan ISBT in the south and Anand Vihar ISBT in the east of the city.
PLACES TO SEE The Red Fort, Lotus Temple, Jama Masjid, ISKCON Temple, Qutub Minar, Humayun’s Tomb, India Gate, Connaught Place, Akshardham Temple and Jantar Mantar.
PLACES TO STAY
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Delhi has quite a good number of places to stay. Depending upon the affordability, Delhi has got all the options for the travellers — budget hotels, mid-range and five-star hotels to boast of. Check out http://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourismg297602-National_Capital_Territory_o f_Delhi-Vacations.html for more accommodation options.
HUMAYUN TOMB IS ANOTHER MASTERPIECE OF MUGHAL ARCHITECTURE IN DELHI
is totally a chaotic mess. It is neither urban nor rural. It is just a communal mess, inhabited by people who have no idea what Delhi was — the beautiful city of gardens that had charmed an adolescent like me on my many frequent visits from Lahore. Back in the times of the British, the Havelock circle (what we today call the Gol dakkhana that lies in shambles) was the main square and the Havelock road was the main area in the DIZ. It was the most prominent area of the imperial Delhi. The road used to be sprinkled with water at 4 am every morning and one could walk barefoot on the stretch, while taking in the serene beauty that Delhi exuberated then. Today, it’s all a concrete jungle. However, Delhi’s charms exist untouched in its older parts, i.e., the good Old Delhi. Mughal’s architectural imprint, in the form of various monuments and
THE INDIA GATE PULSATING WITH LIFE WAS THE LUXURY OF FEW PREINDEPENDENCE
gothic structures, are the pride and soul of Delhi. From the parathe wali gali to the coffee shops, payes served at Jama Masjid, the chat shops, owners of which are families that have been into these businesses for many years now, all leaves a person in complete awe of the place. I can safely say that the charm of Old Delhi has not lessened with time, or population. In fact, with the metro having made inroads in this old part of Delhi, the region has become all the more accessible for people today. Thus, while I may have no complaints with the Old Delhi, it pains me to see what the people, or rather the government has today done to my imperial Delhi. Though I still ask my driver to take the Havelock road every time I pass through Delhi, the place is no longer what it used to be. But such is life I guess. (As told to Priyanka Saxena) (PHOTOS BY HARIOM MAURYA)
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THE GOLDEN TEMPLE WELCOMES VISITORS IN LARGE NUMBER FROM VARIOUS CORNERS OF THE WORLD
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City with a
golden heart It is the city that faced the worst massacre of the independence struggle, is also the place housing the “Berlin wall of Asia” wherein India and Pakistan armies often come face-to-face, and is abode to one of the most sacred temples — the Golden Temple of India. With Amritsari Kulches and makhani lassi adding flavours to it, the hurts have died down and what remains today is a city bustling with culture, fun and hordes of tourists! S ARORA
time, Brigadier General Reginald Dyer, issued an order requiring all Indians using that street to crawl its length on their hands and knees. He also authorised the indiscriminate, public whipping of natives who came within lathi length of British policemen. Then on April 13, 1919, when a multitude of Punjabis gathered at the Bagh as part of the “Baisakhi fair” (a Sikh festival) and to protest against these extraordinary measures, Dyer appeared as the head of a contingent of British troops, and without even giving a word of warning, ordered
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assi shassi te kukkad shukkad!! When in Amritsar, enjoy the funloving atmosphere — totally bay-fikar! After all, this Sikh land is known for its fearless people, right from the time of the freedom struggle. Sikhs are known to have fought against the British rule with the grit and confidence no other did, though many believe, they didn’t get the due when the country finally got its independence in 1947. Sikh freedom
fighters like Bhagat Singh are known, loved and remembered even now, but many, they say, died without making it to any of our history books. Speak to locals there and they would willingly share with you the story of the Jallianwala Bagh massacre, also known as the Amritsar massacre. It apparently started a few months after the end of the First World War when an English woman, a missionary, reported that she has been molested on a street in the Punjab city of Amritsar. The Raj’s local commander at that
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34 HOW TO REACH BY AIR Amritsar is well connected by air through Raja Sansi Airport which is 11km from the city centre. Jetlite and Kingfisher airlines operate flights to New Delhi, Pune, Ahmedabad, Bengaluru, Chennai, Kolkata, Mumbai, Cochin, Goa and Hyderabad. BY RAIL Amritsar Junction is well connected to major cities of the country. Amritsar Shatabdi is one of the convenient trains that connect Delhi and Amritsar. Mumbai is connected by Golden Temple and Dadar-Amritsar Express trains. BY ROAD Amritsar may also be reached by road. The Golden City is well connected to all the major cities of northern India. One may take a bus or hire a car to reach Amritsar by road. Grand Trunk Road connects Delhi to Amritsar. Regular buses are available from ISBT Delhi to Amritsar.
PLACES TO SEE Gandhi Gate, Hall Bazaar, Town Hall, Company Bagh, Pul Kanjari, Golden Temple, Jallianwala Bagh, Attari Border Crossing and Harmandir Sahib.
PLACES TO STAY Hotels in Amritsar range from first class to budget hotels and come with a lot of facilities for the travellers. Some of these hotels enjoy strategic locations and are near to places like Wagah Border and the Golden Temple. Visit http://www.yatra.com/indiahotels/amritsar-hotels/hotels-in-amritsar .html for more details
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JALLIANWALA BAGH STANDS WITNESS TO ONE OF THE TRAGIC INCIDENTS OF INDIAN HISTORY
THE FAMOUS WAGAH BORDER
50 soldiers to fire at the gathering. The bloodshed was enormous and the count of people who died was noted at 379, and those injured at 1,500. Even today as you enter through the narrow entrance of the Bagh, you can feel the injustice to the civilians, and the bloodshed that was a consequence of nothing but a peaceful gathering. The well that lies in the centre of the Bagh is a testimony to the firing, and the bullet marks and holes seen on it, a reminder of the injustice. Amritsar offers tourists plenty to do and see. However, most visitors to Amritsar come for the world famous, piece of art — the Gurudwara Harmandir Sahib, famously known as the Golden Temple. Swathed in pure gold, surrounded by the holy water body the Amrit Sarovar, after which the city is named, the moment one enters the complex past the large ornate archway with intricate inlay work, a completely different world unfolds. Most people seem to be walking in the same direction, for the ‘parikrama’ which is half complete as you stand in queue to meet the guru of Sikhs — the book called Guru Granth
Sahib. Your head covered, and foot bare, you enter the ‘Darbar Sahib’ where Guru Granth Sahib Ji is beautifully placed amidst lavish pieces of cloth called the ‘rumale’ — beautifully embroidered, and costing lakhs at times. The entire atmosphere is arresting to say the least. Another tourist attraction for tourists visiting Amritsar is the Wagah Border, often called the “Berlin Wall of Asia”, the checkpost of which is located 29km away from the city at a village called Wagah, half of which lies in India and the other half in Pakistan. Every evening a retreat ceremony called ‘lowering of the flags’ takes place at the border, wherein a fierce parade of Indian soldiers and that of Pakistani soldiers lower the flags of their respective countries. What is worth experiencing is the display of patriotism, and enthusiasm of the crowd at both ends especially India, where crowds roar ‘Jai Hind’ and other words, sing songs and poems demonstrating their love for their nation. Amritsar is a city that brings to you a taste of patriotism, struggle, peace and godliness, and then the fun, frolic and likeness for good food of the people. For a city as small as it is, it has developed by leaps and bounds in the last few years. People are now exposed to international brands with the entry of various malls and multiplexes, and of course the increasing tourism has attracted the biggies of the hospitality industry like Ista and ITC. However, when in Amritsar, wherever you stay, don’t forget to binge on the gol gappas, chhole bhature, tandoori chicken, amritsari machi, lassi, jalebis and motichur de laddoo (famous at Bansal)! Besides having a golden heart, the city sure is a foodies treat. (PHOTOS BY HARIOM MAURYA, S ARORA AND SUNIL VAIDYANATHAN)
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Housing regalia of the
victory and defeats It’s a special kind of flavour, a kind of nostalgia for times gone by, that the name Mysore evokes. Travel guides will probably say Mysore is full of old world charm, but that’s something of a worn-out cliché that’s unfortunately not wholly applicable any longer. Instead, Mysore is a city that is constantly trying to balance the dichotomy of a royal city steeped in history and a city that is racing on the information technology super highway. ANITA RAO KASHI
D
Wodeyars, the traditional rulers and a succession of kings administered the kingdom as British allies till independence. To this day, it is Srirangapatna which bears the marks of the bitter struggle against the British. It is a vast open-air museum comprising ruins, tombs, temples and mosques. Remnants of the massive fort are still visible but are slowly being subsumed by the growing city. More beautiful and surprisingly intact is the Daria Daulat Bagh or Tipu’s Summer Palace. It is adorned with exquisite wall panels, carved arches and beautiful frescos. The palace is built of wood, and is cool and elegant, ample evidence why it
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
espite its long history, Mysore never did see aggressive or sustained uprisings during the latter part of the independence struggle. It had its share of protests, demonstrations and satyagrahas, but a majority of them were quelled by the Mysore kings who were the allies of the British. However, more significantly, it is here that the British tasted their first-ever defeat that the hands of Tipu Sultan who ruled over the area in the late 18th century.
Just outside Mysore is the island of Srirangapatna, where the river Cauvery splits into two and rejoins a bit down stream. It is from here that Hyder Ali and later his son Tipu Sultan ruled over the Mysore kingdom and engaged the British in four Anglo-Mysore wars between 1766 and 1799. First Hyder and then Tipu inflicted crushing defeats on the British in the first two wars, and almost brought the British empire to its knees. But the victory was shortlived. Tipu lost the third war, surrendering half his kingdom to the British. The fourth marked the end of the resistance, and Tipu died defending Srirangapatna against the British. The kingdom was handed over to the
TOURISTS ENJOYING BOATING IN RANGANATHITTU
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37 HOW TO REACH BY AIR The nearest airport to Mysore is Bengaluru (139km). All the domestic airlines in the country operate their flights to Bengaluru from all the major cities in the country. BY RAIL Mysore is connected with a number of trains to Bengaluru. The super fast luxury train the Shatabdi Express connects Mysore to Chennai. The quickest and most comfortable way to reach Mysore is via Bengaluru.
G U M B A Z, CONTAINING THE TOMBS OF HYDER, TIPU AND THEIR FAMILIES
was called the summer abode. It also has a small museum housing a lot of trivia — Tipu’s clothes, coins, paintings, murals, furniture, weapons etc. Nearby is the Gumbaz, containing the tombs of Hyder and Tipu, as well as their families. Elsewhere in the town are other interesting sites such as Wellesley Bridge, a gunpowder store room and a Catholic Church founded by Abbe Dubios, a Christian missionary. There’s also the Ranganatha Swamy temple (from which the little town gets its name), which contains a giant Vishnu image reclining regally on the sevenheaded serpent. Nearby is the
treat to visitors with its bird life and a unique butterfly park which houses hundreds of varieties of the winged creatures. For art connosieurs, the Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery is a good bet. It is housed in Jaganmohan Palace and contains priceless paintings by Ravi Varma, the Roerichs, Venkatappa and the famous Lady with the Lamp by Haldenkar. And finally there’s the Ranganathittu bird sanctuary, just on the city’s outskirts, a densely populated bird sanctuary, where winged creatures are known to arrive from as far away as Australia, North America and even Siberia. Mysore might not have experienced the intense and bloddy struggle of the independence movement like some other parts of the country, but it did have its share. The city is known to weave its magic with its sights, sounds and smells that are all uniquely Mysore. (PHOTOS BY SUSHEELA NAIR)
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Jami Masjid, a sacred place for Muslims. To the North of the temple is Colonel Bailey’s dungeon, where British soldiers were held captive. A little further is an obelisk which marks the spot where Tipu was killed. Down the road from Gumbaz is a beautiful spot where the river Cauvery flows tranquilly and is ideal for a picnic. However, Mysore is a beautiful city for visitng tourists. It is truly a regal city with royalty and palaces never far from the horizon, of culture, heritage and romance strewn all over, of wide boulevards, shady pavements and majestic circles. By far, the first stop is the Amba Vilas Palace, or what is popularly known as the Mysore Palace. It is made of grey granite building, three storeys high, with deep pink marble domes dominated by a five-storied 145-foot tower with a gilded dome flying a single golden flag. The palace houses a huge collection of art and sculpture from all over the world, including paintings by the famous Ravi Varma and reliefs by Karnataka’s noted painter-sculptromusician Venkatappa. After a leisurely visit to the palace, the next stop is the Chamundi Hills, on which stands a temple dedicated to Goddess Chamundeshwari (Durga), considered to be Mysore’s sacred icon. This is a good place to get a panoramic view of the city. Here you will also find the famous zoo, which is a great hit with the children. How can one talk about Mysore and not mention the Brindavan Gardens — a rolling park incorporating beautiful fountains, lying adjacent to the Krishnaraja Sagar (KRS) Dam built across the river Cauvery. Other water bodies in the city such as Karanji Lake offer a great
BY ROAD The well-maintained state highway connects Mysore with Bengaluru. The Karnataka Road Transport Corporation has an excellent bus service to Mysore. There are also ordinary buses, semi-luxury buses and luxury buses operated by the Government of Karnataka. Every half an hour, there is a non-stop bus to Mysore from Bengaluru Bus Station. Corporations of other states and private tour operators have buses plying to Mysore as well. The journey is otherwise a pleasant one taking about three hours to reach Mysore from Bengaluru.
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A BEAUTIFUL BEACH AT PORT BLAIR
Paradise with a hell
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It was a sort of pilgrimage. Years back, I had resolved to pay homage to a distant relative, who, at 21, had been incarcerated in the infamous Cellular Jail for taking part in the freedom struggle. The son of a prosperous Zamindar, young Jatin had left a life of luxury to face torture and death for the sake of his motherland. Its beauty was surreal, even then, and yet, the punishment, the torture into seclusion was almost too much to bear for Indians during the British raj…
TANUSHREE PODDER
was located at the end of the corridor on the second floor. The tiny cells with a miniscule ventilator that stood three metres high had neither a lavatory nor the bare necessities for the prisoners. I felt claustrophobic just standing there for a few minutes and could not imagine the condition of the inmates who were sentenced for life. The list of prisoners who were jailed in the Cellular Jail reads like a ‘Who’s Who’ of the freedom fighters. Liaquat Ali, Savarkar brothers, Vaman Rao Joshi, Gurmukh Singh, Ladha Ram, Bhai Parmanand, Nand Gopal, Mohit Moitra and Mahavir Singh were just some of the torchbearers of our struggle for independence. Since there was still time for the son et lumiere show, I walked down to the nearby Andaman Water Sports Complex. If you are a lover of adventure water sports, water skiing, wind surfing, speedboats, sailboats, para-sails, Gemini boats, glass bottom boats, water scooters, kayaks, this is the place for you. This complex, the first-of-its-kind in the country, has a range of all possible activities in the field of water sports. There are also seawater swimming pools, safe water paddleboats, aqua glides, water cycles and many more attractions. Apart from other facilities like Children’s Traffic Park, restaurants etc, you will also come across the memorial for Battle of Aberdeen fought between aboriginals and the British in1859. The nature-lover in me was delighted
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he sun-kissed sandy beaches and pristine blue waters beckoned enticingly as I flew over the largest archipelago in the Bay of Bengal. Its 306 islands, umpteen rocks and rocky outcrops along with coral reefs, mangroves, wetlands and tropical rainforests make the Andaman and Nicobar Islands a world of wonder and beauty. Yet this beautiful place was turned into a horrendous hub dreaded as Kala Paani by Indians during the British Raj.
Right amidst the beautiful panorama of sandy beaches, azure sea, verdant stretches and serene ambience stands the edifice symbolising the ultimate in inhuman torture and incarceration — the Cellular Jail. On a fine spring morning I walked into the confines of the jail in a cheerful mood. Hours later, I walked out of it with a heavy heart. The jail along with its instruments of torture, gallows, worksheds and its horrific legends has that impact on every individual who walks into its four walls. The British constructed this horrendous monument of human torture in 1906, to crush the bodies and the souls of the freedom fighters. It originally consisted of seven wings radiating from a central tower, of which only three remain now. The jail cost a staggering Rs 500,000 and required three million bricks to construct. Between the wings were the workshops where the prisoners toiled each day to grind oil and make rope. The prison contained a total of 698 cells — hence the name Cellular Jail. The last six cells in the block seven were reserved for prisoners condemned to the gallows. After hanging, the bodies were dumped into the sea. As I walked through the long corridors, I could almost hear the sighs of pain coming from the walls of the tiny cells that were made for complete isolation. The work barracks and the gallows left me with a heavy feeling. Cell number 123, which housed Veer Savarkar,
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HOW TO REACH BY AIR Indian Airlines and Jet Airways run regular flights from Chennai and Kolkata to Port Blair. BY SEA Regular passenger ship services ply between Port Blair and Chennai (1,190km), Kolkata (1,255km). Details are available from the offices of the Shipping Corporation of India.
PLACES TO SEE There are many smaller islands like Ross Island, Havelock Island and Neil Islands that have interesting history and spectacular sights. Ross Island was the seat of power during the British rule and known as the Paris of the East. The Radha Nagar Beach at Havelock Island is one of the most beautiful beaches in India. The journey to Baratang Island is through the protected reserves inhabited by the Jarawas.
THE CELLULAR JAIL
PLACES TO STAY There are many government guesthouses and resorts at Port Blair, which are reasonably priced. The Andaman Teal House, Forest Guesthouse, Municipal Guest-house are some of them. They are excellently located and well maintained. Reservations for them can be done from the Andaman Tourist Office. At the upper end are several hotels like the Sinclairs Bayview, Bay Island and Peerless Resorts.
ENTRY FORMALITIES
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Indian nationals from the mainland need no special permits to visit the Andamans. However, permits are required to visit the Nicobar Islands. Foreign tourists need a permit, which is valid for 30 days.
A MODEL SHOWING A PRISONER IN THE CELLULAR MUSEUM
THE CORBYN COVE
by the miniature botanical garden called the Marina Park. It was almost 7 and time to make my way back to the Cellular Jail for the light and sound show. There are two shows, one in Hindi and the other in English. I opted for the Hindi one because that truly brings out the rhythm and life of India. The entire story of Cellular Jail is related through the eyes of the massive tree located near the entrance, imaginatively interspersed by light effects. Having paid my homage to the freedom fighters, I decided to take in the beauty of the island. Despite the grim presence of the Cellular Jail, Port Blair is
a fascinating place endowed with clean, silver beaches and sparkling blue water of the ocean. The fascinating riot of colours and a vast repository of flora and fauna are a treat for the nature-lovers. The islands consist of luxuriant mangroves and house no lesser than 110 species of wild orchids and 150 species of plants and animals endemic to the place, some of them rare in nature. The first spot on my agenda was the nearby beach called the Corbyn’s Cove Complex. It is a picture postcard seabeach, with tall coconut trees waving romantically alongside the white sands and the emerald water of the sea. The next morning, I started early for a beach known as Chiriyatapoo, the bird island. Although it is a long drive, 25km from Port Blair, to the bird’s island situated at the southern most tip of south Andamans, it is worth the time and money spent on the journey. Amongst the many museums, the Anthropological Museum, an ethnographic museum is one that must not be missed. The lifestyle of the four Negroid tribes — the Jarawas, the Sentinelese, the Great Andamanese and the Onges — and two Mongoloid tribes of the Nicobar — the Nicobarese and the Shompens — comes alive interestingly in the museum. From the Phoenix Jetty, I caught the Harbour cruise that took me through seven different islands. The panoramic view of seven points from the sea, harbour, the floating dock, Viper Island, Ross Island and Chatham Island are simply unforgettable. (PHOTOS BY TANUSHREE PODDER)
M
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Kolkata
bhalo lagchhe
Kolkata generally evokes mixed feelings among people — while there are some who sigh and reminisce about the Calcutta of the good old days, there are others who proudly say that it is perhaps the only city in India that has not changed much over the years, after all, where else can you still enjoy a tonga ride, while a BMW swishes past by and savour the most delectable Macher Jhol by the roadside? And history? Well, the city has plenty of that too! MALLAR SARKAR
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
A
traveller with an interest in visualising the history of the freedom struggle in Bengal, experiencing the flavour of the times when British ruled Kolkata, the capital of India from 1772-1911, will find the place most intriguing. Remnants of British domination during that long period still exist in the city in the form of wonderful European-style mansions, which have been preserved as heritage assets. The focal point of Kolkata (renamed officially from Calcutta in 2001) is its central region as well as the main hub of imperial Kolkata known as the Dalhousie Square or BBD Bagh. The name is in tribute to the three young daring freedom fighters — Binoy, Badal and Dinesh who shot dead Inspector General of Prison N.S Simpson on the corridor of Writers Building in 1930. The fourstorey building is now the headquarters of Bengal from political and administrative aspect. It was built in 1777 by East India Company, structured in Corinthian columns, arches and triangular pediment. The red colour of the building is reflected NETAJI’S STATUE AT ESPLANADE
at ‘Lal Dighi’, which was once excavated in early 18th century to supply drinking water in the city. A traveller can explore the surrounding area of Dalhousie rewarded with marvellous architectures. Just to the south of central-point of Dalhousie, ‘Raj Bhavan’, the residences of Lord Wellesley, founded in 1803, is an excellent example of Euro-classical, Greek and Gothic revival structure. The place today serves as the official residence of Governor of West Bengal. ‘Town Hall’ is famed as Calcutta Museum (Timing: 11am 5pm; Monday closed) built in 1813 that served as the venue for meeting and speeches subjecting the Indian freedom fight during the nationalist movement. The gallery of faded photographs and discoloured portraits of British and Indian historical figures, exposing the facts of past in front of a traveller is definitely worth a precious visit. Other significant Victorian-style constructions are Kolkata High Court and GPO. After the foundation of Kolkata in 1690, Esplanade and its associate area became the favourite hunting ground of the English till the colony was established significantly by various communities. Once it was the place
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43 HOW TO REACH BY AIR The airport in Kolkata is situated at Dumdum, around 17km northeast of the city centre. Most of the domestic airlines have direct services to and from Kolkata to other important cities of India such as Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Patna, Varanasi, Lucknow, etc. Kolkata provides direct flights to most of the countries in the Southeast Asia.
RAJ BHAVAN OR GOVERNOR HOUSE
for English to enjoy joy-ride on horseback or sitting behind coachmen, but today the venue is one of the major commercial centres in the state and is overcrowded everyday by millions of people. On the centre of Esplanade, the monument or ‘Sahid Minar’ is the skytouching structure of 50m height with 218 steps to climb built by Ochterlony in 1828 exists in the memory of fighters of the Indian independence struggle. At present, it serves as the meeting-point of political rallies and religious gathering. In the heart of the city, Victoria Memorial stands tall and proud since 1922 with a wonderful impression and marvel of the past. William Emerson — President of British Institute of Architect — designed this white-wonder in Italian Renaissance style, dedicated to Queen Victoria. Lush green compound of 64 acres emphasises the majesty of the memorial and the statues of Clive, Hastings, Dalhousie and Curzon,
BY ROAD Kolkata is well-connected with most of the Indian cities by road. The Esplanade Terminus in the heart of the city is the main bus terminus. A new development is the starting of the Dhaka-Kolkata bus service. The buses are colourful, air-conditioned and comfortable.
PLACES TO SEE Howrah Bridge, Victoria Memorial, Eden Gardens Cricket Stadium, City Centre, Salt Lake, Asiatic Society, Botanical Garden, Kali Temple, Kalighat, and Dakshineswar Temple.
PLACES TO STAY Kolkata has not good range of hotels to rave about when it comes to budget and mid-range hotels. However, upper-end hotels can be worth exploring. Visit http://www.travelguru.com/indiahotels/kolkata-hotels.html for more details.
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NATIONAL LIBRARY
representing the glory of British empire. The central crowning dome is mounted by an Angel of Victory, which turns with the direction of wind. The architecture provides an insight into the Indian history starting with the arrival of the British to the independence era to a traveller. The portrait gallery of Victoria contains portraits from members of royal family to important figures of Bengal Renaissance like Dwarakanath Thakur, Keshab Chandra Sen including valuable collection of ‘Akbarnama’, ‘Ain-i-Akbari’. The Armsgallery shows the swords of Haider Ali and Tipu Sultan, offering a peek-a-boo into the pages of the past. The Calcutta gallery is enriched with old maps, sketches, photographs and illustrations of the Indian freedom fight, colonial establishment, nationalist movement in Bengal, life of Kolkata at that crucial time, partition of Bengal and a lot of historical documents. However, photography inside the exhibition hall is prohibited.
BY RAIL The city has two major railway stations — one at Howrah and the other one at Sealdah. Trains from the other parts of the country connect Kolkata. Super-fast trains such as Rajdhani and Shatabdi Express connect the city to Delhi and nearby cities such as Bokaro and Rourkela. Coromandel Express and Gitanjali Express connect Kolkata to Chennai and Mumbai respectively.
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ASIATIC SOCIETY
ALIPORE JAIL
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The museum of Asiatic Society founded in 1784 presents a remarkable collection of old maps, photographs and valuable manuscripts on Kolkata, where a visitor can find its national importance. History-lover, when in Kolkata, should surely visit the Fort William, situated adjacent to the Hooghly river. The fort was founded in 1757 by Robert Clive of East India Company and it is named so to the honour of King William-III. The entry inside the fort-complex is restricted and one needs special permission from the Indian Army of Eastern Region to enter it. The fort is witness to many historical moments and infamous incident like the ‘Black Hole Tragedy’. Siraj-Ud-Daulah, the Nawab of Bengal, with his force, attacked the fort on June 20, 1756; as a result 146 prisoners died followed by force crammed
TOWN HALL OR THE KOLKATA MUSEUM
ESPLANADE MANSION
in an enclosed guard-room, where excess suffocation, heat exhaustion and nonavailability of water caused their death and only a few of them survived. The memorial was founded at St. John’s Churchyard in memory of the slaughtered persons. Kolkata not only has a history rich with incidences and architecture but personalities too. S C Bose is an iconic figure in Bengal and Indian history for his contribution to the freedom fight and his mysterious disappearance. The ‘Netaji Research Bureau’ named as ‘Netaji Bhavan’ at Elgin Road looks like a common Bengali residence. The biographical museum was established in 1961 and today draws a huge number of people who have interest in Indian history or are great admirers of Subhash Chandra Bose. On Bose’s birthday, January 23, the
gallery is especially flocked by people, who come to see the many materials left by the iconic figure, such as his own bed, garments, a clock, medicines, shoes, furniture, Gita and many other important historical documents attached to the freedom struggle. The museum remains open to visitors from 4pm - 8pm on weekdays and 9am - 12pm on Sunday. Rabindranath Tagore and Kolkata are almost synonymous. Tagore’s house at Jorasanko in North Kolkata was such a place, where many nationalists used to meet for discussions and finally the massive protest led by Rabindranath against the sly decision of partitioning Bengal was organised from here. Today, the place is famed by ‘Rabindra Bharati University’. The gallery of Rabindra Bharati Museum has a great collection of paintings, manuscripts and photographs on freedom movement in Kolkata and Bengal Renaissance to arouse a sense of nostalgia. A visitor as well as an avid history reader may also explore the grand National Library built by Warren Hastings at Belvedere Road of Alipore, once used as leisure house by the British Governor General. The library contains over eight million books and thousands of valuable printed documents. One can find his desired reference book on history of Kolkata, Nationalist Movement in Bengal, independence struggle in India and many more about history or pre-independence related chronicles. Like Mirza Ghalib aptly said: “One should be grateful that such a city as Calcutta exists… To sit in the dust of Calcutta is better than to grace the throne of another dominion.” (PHOTOS BY MALLAR SARKAR)
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Going back
SEGA, THE TRADITIONAL DANCE OF MAURITIUS
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in time
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Drive around in Mauritius and you would see India at every corner. There is a Bihar Roots Foundation, a Bhojpuri Samaj, a tiny temple in each home and if you listen carefully, you would decipher Bhojpuri from the Kreole that most natives speak. I did not go to Mauritius to soak in the greens and laze on the azure shores‌ I went to visit Phoolyar village, the first settlement of Indian immigrants and to know more about the plight, survival and growth of Indians who made Mauritius their home, centuries back.
PREETI VERMA LAL
I
t must have been raining hard in Dumrawo when a young, brawny Ninhoo signed up with the British recruiting agent to sail for Mauritius. Ninhoo must have been excited to board the gleaming Rustomjee Cowasjee ship that weighed 764 tonnes and was licensed to carry 270. At the hoot of the ship, Ninhoo's heart must have pounded, he was leaving behind all that he knew and loved; for him Mauritius must have been just another name for a
dream. He perhaps knew not that he was signing up to become an indentured labourer, he knew not that life would translate into sweat, toil and atrocities of the British sugarcane estate owner. Perhaps Ninhoo sang at the deck when the sea turned livid or the sails fluttered angrily. Ninhoo must have sailed for six weeks on Rustomjee. He landed in Port Louis on October 8, 1849, tired, unkempt but with a young heart still pounding with a better-life dream. Ninhoo must have walked up those 16 steps at what is now Aapravsi Ghat, a UNESCO World
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Heritage Site — he must have bathed, cringed at the vaccination, slept at the depot for two days, registered and then carted off to a sugarcane plantation. That day Ninhoo, the son of Dhoojo, lost his last name and his identity. He became an immigrant number. And an indentured labourer. Just that. Everything else became redundant. And everywhere he went he had to carry the tin ticket — either strapped on the arm or worn around the neck. In Mauritius, the life of a young, brawny teenager from Dumrawo changed forever. It was in a red-bound long ledger stacked in the Folk Museum of Indian Immigration at the Mahatma Gandhi Institute (MGI) that I first stumbled upon Ninhoo. Finding Ninhoo was not easy — there are 2000 such ledgers in the MGI; entry into the archives section is strictly prohibited; ledgers are not touched by naked hand — women wear white gloves while handling them. In the sepia pages cluttered with ink stain blotches, Ninhoo's details are written in calligraphed hand in black ink and names certainly look misspelt. Dumrawo should have been Dumraon, Bhojepore Bhojpur, and perhaps Ninhoo should have been Nanhe or Ninu. Perhaps Ninhoo was not even aware of these errors, neither could he have imagined that his misspelt name would become the family name for his progeny and all generations to come. In that register I saw Gunputh, Ramchurn,
Hurloll... For Ninhoo was not the only one to land in Mauritius. He was not the first one, either. In the Folk Museum of Indian Immigration at MGI, a photocopied framed sheet bears the names of the first 36 Indian indentured labourers who arrived on November 2, 1834 — Soorop, Sabaram, Bhoodoo, Champak, Bhoowan, Bhumarah, Bhagyaruth, Dookhun, Gungaram… Slavery had been abolished by the British Parliament and 'indenture' became the new system of recruitment of cheap labour. The 'Great Experiment' of the indentured system was launched in Mauritius as a test case and GC Arbuthnot, an enterprising private recruiting agent, signed an agreement on September 9, 1834, to recruit Indians as indentured labourers. In 1834, 75 male labourers reached Mauritius. Between 1834 and 1910 when the indentured system was abolished in Mauritius, 346,145 men and 105,896 women arrived from India, mainly from what are now Bihar, Bengal, Tamil Nadu, Gujarat and Maharashtra. Of the total 452,041 arrivals, only 167,570 returned to India after the completion of their five-year contract. As I walk up the 16 steps of the wharf at the Aapravasi Ghat where Atlas, the ship, had moored with the first batch of Indian labourers, I go back 175 years in time, to that date of November 2, 1834, when Soorop, Sabaram, Bhoodoo, Champak, Bhoowan, Bhumarah,
Bhagyaruth, Dookhun, Gungaram… must have stepped off Atlas, tired and unkempt after more than six weeks on the choppy seas. There was no ghat then (the Aapravasi Ghat was constructed in 1849), several buildings in Port Louis were used as depots for labourers. At the end of the 16th step, I saw the ruins of the stone building where the labourers bathed and were later registered. The dilapidated adjacent wall stands as a mute testimony to the shelter that the Indians were huddled into for two days before being carted to the sugar estates. I think of the contract clauses — Contract of five years; free to and fro passage; Rs 5 per month as wages of which Re 1 was deducted as repatriation charges; six months advance pay, free ration, accommodation and clothing. I walk by the privies and hospital, and the kitchen where fire is no longer kindled. I think of the nearly half a million Indians who came with dreams in their eyes to this island nation; some left, other stayed back to throw in the ubiquitous dash of Indianness in Mauritius. “Let's go to Phoolyar village, the first settlement of Indian immigrants.” Nostalgic about India and her roots, Sarita Boodhoo, writer and activist, prepped to be my guide/historian for the day. Driving past miles and miles of sugarcane plantations, Boodhoo tells me that the British started meticulously registering arrivals in 1842 and in 1865, a
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX MAURITIUS IS A HAVEN FOR ADVENTURE AND WATER SPORTS' ENTHUSIASTS
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WALK WITH THE LIONS IN CASELA BIRD PARK
GETTING THERE Every Sunday Air Mauritius flies between Delhi and Mauritius; an economy return ticket would cost approximately Rs 40,000. Indians can get visa on arrival; there is no visa fee but you need to furnish a return ticket
WHERE TO STAY Le Telfair (5-star), Heritage Awali (4-star), Le Pearle Beach (3-star)
WHAT TO EAT Indian food in Happy Rajah — try the baigan bharta (mashed brinjals); seafood platter and traditional Mauritian food at Le Captaine; go streetsy with puri and ghugni (black gram in gravy), the nation's favourite fast food; try Japanese in Gin'ja, European cuisine with Mauritian influences in Annabella's, cocktails in Cavendish bar, barbecues by the pool at Le Palmier, traditional Mauritian cuisine at Le Chateau
WHAT TO SEE Apravasi Ghat, Sugar Museum, Casela Bird Park, Seven-coloured earth, Chamarel Rhumerie, volcano crater
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WHAT TO DO Deep sea walk, submarine ride to see fish, Sub scooter (the only one of its kind in the world), parasailing, banana boat, jet skiing. Shop at Port Louis bazaar, or Le Caudon Waterfront
CURRENCY CONVERSION 100 Indian Rupees = 65.56 Mauritius Rupees
RECORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE EARLIEST INDIAN IMMIGRANTS ARE ARCHIVED IN MAHATMA GANDHI INSTITUTE, AND FOLK MUSEUM OF INDIAN IMMIGRATION, PORT BLAIR
photographic unit was set up — a photographer took two photographs of each immigrant, one attached to the immigrant's ticket and the other retained in the records; that in 1987, Coolie Ghat was renamed Aapravasi Ghat and in 2001, November 2 was declared a public holiday in memory of the arrival of the first Indian indentured labourers. In Phoolyar village amidst the ruins of sugar mills and barracks, I saw the idols of Hindu gods and goddesses in the first temple built by the Indians and the barracks that lie in a shambles — it was here that Indians made their home more than 5,000 miles away from home. Drive around in Mauritius and you would see India at every corner. There is a Bihar Roots Foundation, a Bhojpuri Samaj, a tiny temple in each home and if you listen carefully, you would decipher Bhojpuri from the Kreole that most natives speak. In Aventure du Sucre, a sugarcane museum, one can see pictures of the early Indian settlers, their registration sheets sepia with time and their history muddled with incorrect spellings and missing last names.
Perhaps it was in Phoolyar village that at the end of hard day's work, Ninhoo flipped through the pages of the Ramayana that he had brought from village Dumrawo. Perhaps it was here that Kunty of village Moreemoe sang the Bhojpuri jhumar in the silence of the night, and Beesony from Noonur Pargana with scar on the outside corner of the right eyebrow waited for the day that he would return home. His dream was fulfilled — on January 15, 1873, he boarded the Merchant Man ship to go back to his family in Arrah. I do not know what Ninhoo, that strapping lad of 15, looked like, but 175 years later I can imagine him hunched over, toiling in a sugarcane field wearing his tin ticket on his arm… I do not know Ninhoo, but standing by the wharf in Trou Fanfaron in Port Louis I thought of him. I am back home, but I can still hear his heart pounding at the better life in Mauritius dream; I can still hear that heart lamenting the death of that dream. Who knows, that young brawny lad of 15 might have been happier in Dumrawo! (PHOTOS BY PREETI VERMA LAL)
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MICE TRAVEL
Playing the perfect host
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"If I were asked, under what sky, the human mind has most fully developed some of its choicest gifts, has most deeply pondered over the greatest problems of life, and has found solutions to some of them‌ I should point to India." - Friedrich Max Muller
B M BIRLA AUDITORIUM AND CONVENTION CENTRE, JAIPUR
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with numerous heritage monuments, a world-class airport, the heritage city Hyderabad plays the humble host to a sophisticated business venue, Hyderabad International Convention Centre — HICC. Managed by Accor, HICC has a pillar-free internal hall of 6,480 sq m which can be partitioned into six halls in an open capacity. The hall can hold up to 400 tables in banquet setting and 6,000 in cocktail. The pre-function foyer area also exceeds 6,500 sq m in addition to the internal hall space. The centre has mobile operable walls, which when expanded accommodates up to 5,000 people. The facility boasts of state-ofthe-art IT infrastructure, cutting-edge design features and technology, a 15acre landscaped campus and environmental-sustainable practices.
HYDERABAD The pearl city Hyderabad is fast becoming the information and technology capital of India. Studded
BENGALURU Bengaluru, in the recent past, has steadily strengthened its hold on the MICE pulse of our country. The
DELHI The capital city New Delhi has been the favourite MICE destination for quite some time. The numerous charm of the city varies from ancient monuments to excellent shopping options, making the business meeting and conference here an absolute pleasure. The venues for hosting meetings and conventions in Delhi are galore. From the convention halls in various star hotels, of which The Ashok stands out, the options here include Habitat World with 20 function rooms along with a club with 58 rooms, a fitness centre, six restaurants and four performance venues for cultural and entertainment programmes. Habitat World hosts over 6,000 conferences and banquets each year. Add to this the sprawling halls and lawns at Pragati Maidan and you have top-of-the-line MICE venue ready for you!
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5 (TOP 3) VARIOUS CONVENTION VENUES AT THE INDIA HABITAT CENTRE, DELHI; (4) CHENNAI TRADE CENTRE; AND (5) EXPO CENTRE, NOIDA
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
hat people find India inspirational, is no secret by a far cry. But the fact that Indians too are fast realising the importance of "motivation" and incorporating the same in their work schedules has given the MICE industry in India a big push. Conventional business meetings and conferences are now passé. Instead, what has emerged as the latest trend in business tourism is MICE — Meetings, Incentives, Conventions and Exhibitions. India is beginning to find itself in the reckoning for MICE, a fast-growing market that has shown huge potential worldwide and doesn't just bring tremendous amount of knowledge but also contributes immensely to the national exchequer in terms of foreign receipts. It has been realised that ambience plays a pivotal role in motivating the staff and improving their productivity. Organising annual business meetings, international conferences and conventions, exhibitions and events at exotic locations converts them into glamorous events that are entertaining for the delegates as well as the participants. And this has triggered the race between the cities to be "a novel MICE destination". India with its diverse culture and probably the richest heritage in the world offers an unforgettable opportunity to mix business with leisure and pleasure. Witness the significant achievement that India, in a space of a little over a decade, has achieved. And, the indelible footprints, the effort to develop MICE destination has left behind in the sands of time, both good and bad, can be witnessed all across the country.
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OUTSIDE AND INSIDE VIEWS OF THE BANGALORE INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION CENTRE
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Bangalore International Exhibition Centre boasts of exhibition and conference facilities that are first-of-itskind in India. It offers services and amenities of the highest quality at par with international standards. This multipurpose 34-acre complex has 40,000 sq m of covered column-less airconditioned exhibition space, three exhibition halls, a multi-facility conference centre spread over 5,600 sq m, including four conference halls, a food court, a machine tool training centre and large open outdoor area. With a plethora of IT companies making a
CHENNAI TRADE CENTRE
beeline for Bengaluru, what with the new Greenfield airport adding more grace to it, the city is fast becoming the MICE capital of India. CHENNAI Trying to match pace with the development in the cities of Hyderabad and Bengaluru, Chennai, with its Chennai Trade Centre is not far behind on the MICE radar. The Chennai Trade Centre is spread over an area of over 25 acres of land with four modules of 4,400 sq m each of exhibition halls. The convention centre is 6,714 sq m and contains a multi-purpose hall that can accommodate 1,500 people, a 500 sq m stage, a banquet hall, lounge and business and meeting rooms.
NCR Just as the space crunch in Delhi pushed many of its residents to the outskirts, business too decided to flourish in the outskirt periphery. Epicentre at Apparel House boasts of a 45,000 sq ft exhibition hall, the largest and the only such venue in Gurgaon for exhibitions, conferences, AGMs and dinners for up to 3,000 people. The venue is ideal for conferences, seminars, banquets, exhibitions, board meetings, press interactions, corporate presentations, workshops, parties, film screenings, theatre and cultural performances of all kinds. Conveniently accessible from the national capital, the venue's proximity to Delhi's international and domestic airports gives it a locational advantage. It
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ICPB
After the success of the India Convention Promotion Bureau's five conclaves, the sixth “Conventions India — the Meetings, Incentives, Conventions and Events Conclave” is being organised on August 27 - 28, 2010, at The Lalit Ashok at Bengaluru with the support of the Ministry of Tourism, Government of India, and also the Karnataka State Tourism Department. The conclave would provide people an opportunity to interact with the bureau's members who are specialists in organising meetings and conventions and also other suppliers who would showcase their products during the conclave. This is a group that forms the backbone of any major event taking place in the country. ICPB disseminates information about infrastructural facilities and related services for planning/ organising meetings and conventions and assists the Indian tourism industry to market them globally. This conclave is a unique event for the participants to create an excellent sharing and learning opportunity. The speakers at the conclave are active industry professionals, enjoying high levels of creative experience and would offer participants a focus on the challenging and changing future. Another benefit of the conclave is the range of informal discussions, which take place outside the formal programme often setting the basis for future long-term relationships. The participants from overseas would also have an opportunity to join the post-tour being organised to give them an opportunity to inspect the infrastructural facilities and also view the diversity of India, its colours, tastes and the unique aromas.
HYDERABAD INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE
houses an auditorium, an art gallery, a multi-cuisine restaurant, an amphitheatre and conference rooms. The other side of the NCR houses the huge Expo Centre, Noida. The centre is well capable of hosting exhibitions of up to 10,000 sq m of area and conferences, seminars and banquets for 20 to 5,000 people, across five fully air-conditioned halls and additional conference rooms of different sizes, organiser rooms, meeting rooms, VIP rooms, spacious foyer area, open area, lawn, etc. This new exhibition venue in Noida is one-of-its-kind and the largest in the area with an underground and over-ground parking space for up to 700 cars.
EXPO CENTRE, NOIDA
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
For more details, please visit www.icpb.org Or kindly contact the Executive Director on Tel.: 91-11-26873612, Mobile: 919910234405, Fax: 91-11-26874318
JAIPUR In addition to its rich cultural and colourful heritage that acts as a magnet for many, Jaipur also blinks bright on the MICE radar for its B M Birla Auditorium and Convention Centre. Located in the heart of Jaipur, the centre is a sprawling 9.8-acre complex which includes an interactive science museum, a library, a computer centre, an information processing and dissemination cell among others. The main auditorium with a seating capacity of 1,350 people is one of the largest auditoriums in India, built to international conference standards. It can hosts up to 5,000 people at any given time.
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MICE TRAVEL
LALBAGH GLASS-HOUSE — A PLACE OF LEGENDS AND BEAUTY
Bengaluru —
going places
There is no dearth of sobriquets describing Bangalore, now Bengaluru. From the earlier "Pensioner's paradise" and "air-conditioned city" to the latest "Byte basket", "Silicon Valley, "Pub City" and now "Convention City", they all describe the city with a fair degree of accuracy. It's anybody's guess how many more epithets the city might attract; but attract it surely will, for change has been synonymous with Bengaluru.
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
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rom the time a humble old lady served some "boiled beans" (Benda Kalu) to a hungry ruler who'd lost his way in a forest in the 10th century — and the pleased ruler called the place "Benda Kalu Ooru", creating the genesis of its present-day name — to
being one of the fastest-growing cities in Asia today, Bengaluru has indeed travelled a very long way. The city was actually founded in the 16th century, and witnessed great southern dynasties like the Kadambas, the Hoysalas and the Vijayanagar emperors. Situated roughly midway between the east and the west coasts, Bengaluru today is home to six million people. Nearly 10,000 industries
thrive here. It is also home to some of India's premier scientific establishments and aviation industry, not to mention the hub of IT industry in India. Time has brought nearly unbridled development in its wake — like the apartment culture introduced in the mideighties or high-rise offices and commercial complexes that followed. Glitzy restaurants, pubs and discotheques
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geopolitics
geopolitics is your window to every nuance and every development in the world of security, defence and diplomacy. If you are looking at making informed choices or at the pros and cons or getting to understand contemporary development, geopolitics is the answer. Simply put, it’s unputdownable.
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SOME PROMINENT CONVENTION CENTRES: BANGALORE INTERNATIONAL CENTRE TERI Complex, 4th Main, 2nd Cross, Domlur II Stage, Ph: 080-25359680 M L R CONVENTION CENTRE Brigade Millennium Campus, 7th Phase, J P Nagar Ph: 080-66816496 NIMHANS CONVENTION CENTRE Hosur Road, Dharmaram College Ph: 26995370, 26995010
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
HARSHA HOTEL AND CONVENTION CENTRE Park Road Ph: 2865555, 2865566 made their appearance soon after. Today, swanky shopping malls and multiplexes dot the city. While these latest entrants add to the personality of the city, the cultural elite and the intellectual community of Bengaluru have formed their own forums and have created various platforms for their interaction and development, and for fostering not just intellectual activities but also corporate conventions. While these are later additions to the skyline, the city nevertheless boasts of enduring landmarks that have stood the test of time and are truly symbolic in many ways. Vidhana Soudha — a splendid neo-Dravidian granite building — houses the state secretariat and is the largest legislature-cum-office building in the country. The Bangalore Fort, built by Kempe Gowda in the 16th century or the Tudor-style Bangalore Palace, inspired by the Windsor castle and built by a Wodeyar King in 1887 are notable heritage monuments. Lal Bagh, 240 acres of lush, landscaped garden laid out by the erstwhile ruler Hyder Ali; and Cubbon park, the 500acre wooded expanse laid out by the British in 1864, provide the much needed lung space. Present-day city fathers seem to be continuing this tradition. Landscaped gardens and parks dot every layout and locality. It also has its share of museums, a planetarium and cultural centres.
A (A) HUDSON CIRCLE FEATURING KEMPAGOWDA TOWER IN BACKGROUND; (B) PUBLIC LIBRARY DEPICTS STUDYING ENVIRONMENT OF CITY; (C) VIDHANA SOUDHA — THE SEAT OF STATE LEGISLATURE OF KARNATAKA; (D) A VIEW OF LAKE IN LALBAGH; AND (E) BENGALURU IS AFFLUENT WITH SUBURBAN GARDEN
There is an active arts and theatre movement, not to speak of a vibrant literary life. Every big city has a unique food culture and Bengaluru makes its own gastronomic offering — everything from Indian, middle-eastern and continental to oriental and far-eastern. Whether a roadside dhaba, an idlidosa outfit, a fast-food joint, a glitzy restaurant or a speciality restaurant in the dozen or so luxury hotels, they all cater to an increasing clientele who always ask for more. Some prominent eateries in Bengaluru include Koshy's, a favourite with the arty types, offering a variety of Indian, continental and Kerala fare. The oldest and perhaps the best is MTR, the iconic eatery in south Bengaluru, synonymous with idlis, dosas, and other south-Indian fare. In addition to these, Paparazzi, Pier 39 and Bheema's are also a favourite with the locals as well as tourists. Additionally, the IT boom has created its own brand of middle-classsmart, tech-savvy, the with-it crowd, earning by the bushels. They throng the high-end glittering shopping hub of M G road, brigade road and commercial street. And the latest entrants in this arena — sprawling shopping malls coming up in a hurry all over the suburbs — appear to bridge the social divide and attract shoppers from all across the social strata. (PHOTOS BY AKBER AYUB)
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EYE TALK
Joydeep Das, a media professional, born and brought up in Delhi, is driven by his passion for travel which he doubles up with his love for photography. He and his camera keep doing rounds across the country in search of the serene, calm and the picturesque glimpses.
When did you decide to take up photography as a serious hobby? I took up photography around the year 2003 when my father finally agreed to let me use his camera, in a year or two, it became a serious hobby.
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
What prompted you to take up this diversion in the first place? While honing my skills at the camera, I realised that this medium was indeed a very bold and direct way of imparting one's thought. Also, since travelling was always a passion, the both teamed up well to bring out the shutterbug in me. Your favourite photography story? It was in Kolkata during winter time that I was travelling and trying to capture city life. I had been on foot through the city for hours capturing people, street life and local food in my lens. It was then that the Victoria memorial struck me with its magnificent grandeur; I took some shots once but wasn't satisfied as I thought the image still didn't have enough of Victorian era to it. I got there again the following evening and waited for about a couple of hours to get the right evening shot. It paid and the result was stunning with the monument at its best complimented by the beautiful skyline!
Grandeur at dusk: The Victoria Memorial is one of the most fascinating landmarks in Kolkata. A visit to this monolithic white marble structure rekindles the opulent Raj era nostalgia. Scholars and historians refer to Victoria Memorial as an unhappy attempt by the British to build a better Taj Mahal. It offers the best education one can possibly have of the British East India Company's rule in India. Here you will come faceto-face with miniature paintings and images of Queen Mary, King George V and Queen Victoria, not to mention the 3,500 articles associated with the everlasting memory of Queen Victoria. A visit to Victoria Memorial is incomplete without taking the tonga ride and savouring the fuchka's available just outside its premises.
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Your favourite photographers are? Some of the photographers who I admire are Ansel Adams, Herb Ritts, Charles Cramer, Michael Frye and Bob Gruen. Not to forget Zakia Shakir (a photographer from Mumbai) whose work is truly inspiring. Any favourite travel destination for taking pictures? There is no favourite as such because travel is a never-ending process and one keeps discovering new things and new places all the time. But I would suggest to all enthusiasts to visit Kerala, Ladakh, Sikkim and Himachal Pradesh‌ there is plenty to shoot there!
COLOURS OF FREEDOM: RAJASTHANI HANDICRAFTS ARE A HIT, NOT ONLY WITH THE LOCALS AND NATIONALS, BUT ALSO WITH A PLETHORA OF INTERNATIONAL TOURISTS WHO THRONG THE PLACE. FROM LAC BANGLES TO JAIPURI SUITS TO JAIPURI JUTTIS, ALL ARE A MAJOR ATTRACTION FOR THE TOURISTS COMING TO THE REGION. DESIGNED IN BEAUTIFUL RIOT OF COLOURS, THE VIBRANCY OF THE REGION IS EXUBERATED IN ITS VIBRANT ATTIRES AND HANDICRAFTS
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SITTING, WAITING, WATCHING: ON MY TRIP TO GANGTOK, A PLACE THAT I REALLY LIKE FOR ITS CALMNESS AND BEAUTY, AND A DISTANT CALL FROM THE CACOPHONY THAT EXISTS IN OTHER HILL STATIONS, I HAD MY FIRST REAL ENCOUNTER WITH THE WILDLIFE AT THE HIMALAYAN ZOOLOGICAL PARK, JUST ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF GANGTOK. AFTER QUITE A WAIT, I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO GLIMPSE AND CATCH THIS CLOSE UP SHOT OF A SNOW LEOPARD IN MY CAMERA.
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
FREE SPIRITS: THERE'S SOMETHING ABOUT THE BEACH THAT KINDLES THE CAREFREE SPIRIT IN US. FROM KIDS TO COUPLES, SIT OF THE MANY BEACHES IN MUMBAI AND YOU WILL COME ACROSS VARIOUS MOODS AND BEHAVIOUR OF MANY A PEOPLE. AS THE SUN WAS PREPARING TO GO DOWN, I HAPPENED TO CAPTURE THIS BEAUTIFUL SHOT OF TWO CAREFREE CHILDREN PLAYING ON THE VERSOBA BEACH IN MUMBAI.
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The virgin
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UNLIKE OTHER BEACHES LOCATED ON FLAT LAND, IN MURUD, THE BEACH IS FOUND AT THE FOOT OF THE HILLS
A SAIL BOAT IS THE ONLY WAY TO REACH THE MURUD FORT
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
Sailing by the golden seas, the sun so bright, the wind so cold, we reached the shores of Mandwa, from where began our journey to this small pocket in Maharashtra, a village by the sea shore, Murud. The long bumpy ride ended with a beautiful surprise — a clean beach and stunning weather!
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nce I had decided on not visiting the "done to death" and crowded hill stations on my short break, finding a place near Maharashtra, that was just quiet enough, serene enough, and yet, beautiful enough was not tough. In fact, it was this search that landed us in Murud, a small coastal region in Maharashtra. After having checked in at one of the sea-facing rooms, I was dying to hit the shores and immerse my feet in the soft sand and violent water. The beach, they say, isn't that safe so dare not go beyond your knees but the sand is so soft and caressing that you won't miss the feeling of water hitting against your body at all. Dominating the landscape are the palace of the Siddhi Nawabs, the Janjira fort and the Janjira caves. However, the beach by itself is so beautiful that you could look at it forever. The water forms a wavy texture on the sand with its movement and the breeze is so fresh that
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your childhood wish of being a bird and flying in the blue skies is sure to gain momentum. The helter-skelter of wooden cottages basking in the Konkan sunshine, the coconut fronds and the groves of casuarinas, all of them are so breathtaking that you could spend hours cherishing the un-spoilt beauty the place has to offer. Murud was the 15th-16th century capital of the Siddis of Janjira, with the fort right there in the middle of water. Janjira was built in the mid-16th century and was originally a wooden fortress built by the Murud fishermen to protect their village from pirates. Burankhan, the minister of the ruler of Ahmednagar, Nizamshah, later demolished the fortress and built an impregnable stone fort, which could withstand the test of time in its place. Janjira fort had a number of towers and turrets where huge guns and cannons were kept in perpetual readiness to ward off enemies. Shivaji, Sambhaji and the Peshwas tried, in turn, to take over the
fort, but neither of the Marathas could capture the rock-hard beauty, just like the British and the Portuguese. Much of Janjira fort has been corroded and washed away after centuries of battering by the ocean. However, it's a sight to see and discover the history of Maharashtra and its heroes. A sail boat is the only way to reach the fort and they say that it's impossible to find the entrance of the fort even though it's so big that 10,000 people can walk in at a time. You can go there only by boat and be prepared to be astonished with the gigantism of the architectural beauty. Murud-Janjira is a peaceful getaway and bliss for painters, photographers, poets or simple admirers of beauty. As you lay by the beach sipping on your coconut water and relishing the gorgeous beauty of nature little by little, don't be surprised if you find yourself murmur a short prayer — "Oh God, let no one spoil this virgin beauty." (PHOTOS BY RITE CLIK)
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MURUD IS THE RIGHT PLACE WHERE THE HOLIDAYER HAS HIS/HER TIPSY MOMENTS
GETTING THERE
BEST TIME TO GO
OTHER PLACES AROUND
165km from Mumbai by road, reaching Murud should take about five hours. Buses operate from Mumbai Central, Dadar, Vashi and Panvel to Murud's Durbar Road. There are trains till Panvel from where you can take a bus but the most convenient way to get here is by ferry from Mazgaon's Ferry Wharf, to Rewas, 23 km from Murud; or by catamaran from Gateway to Mandwa.
Murud has a coastal climate and can be visited at any time of the year, avoiding the monsoons. However, December and January are a good time to visit for the weather is pleasant and you can rest on the beach all day. Just pack in your sunscreen and your light cotton clothes and get set go for a refreshing weekend getaway.
The Konkan coastline boasts of many a beautiful beach. Kashet is another beach close to Murud (on the way to Murud from Mandwa). Allibaug is yet another wellknown beach on the way but the place is too commercialised and not really maintained that well by the locals.
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EXOTIC EXCESS
Business beyond expectations JASLEEN KAUR
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y first experience, of Bengaluru and The Zuri both, is something I will remember for a long time. Passing through the much traffic-clogged streets of Bengaluru (about one hour from airport), we reached the hotel, the destination and the purpose of my visit. Whitefield, widely known as a hip suburb in Bengaluru, is home to some of the biggest companies and a huge cosmopolitan crowd. It’s a place where top business honchos and young entrepreneurs flock to and catering to them is The Zuri Whitefield. The moment we swished in through the gate, the warm smiling faces and folded hands welcomed us into the lobby of the hotel. The black and white interiors in shades of grey, the crystal bubble
chandelier and the lobby’s reception to my left created nothing less than a magical ambience. The effect was truly spectacular. And this effect rippled, when I smelled the appetising aromas. Following my aroma buds, my eyes were drawn towards a décor of old chic contemporary style, gently swaying fans mounted on the side walls. It was “Kahwa” — the all-day dining multicuisine restaurant, situated at the lobby that can seat up to 114 people. A curvy staircase accompanied by some gurgling water on its side leads you to the first floor of the hotel, which caters to the banquet and conferencing facilities at the Phoenix Ballroom. Having capacity of around 350, the ballroom can host your entire gathering for an event that is sure to be as grand as it gets. But before heading upstairs, The Zuri offers two ultimate gastronomic choices — Incanto and Bling. Incanto, which I discovered when I had
THE AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT — INCANTO
Specifically built to cater to the unique needs of today’s global business traveller and leisure seeker, The Zuri Whitefield is the destination where business is done in style. With a young and trendy soul, the hotel brings about a refreshing change to luxury hospitality, as we’ve known it. lunch later in the day, is the authentic Italian fine-dining restaurant, located close to the entrance of the lobby. Incanto in Italian means ‘enchantment’ and I can assertively say that the place stands true to its namesake. Adding beauty to the food were the frescoes painted on the walls that seemed to have been taken out of a fairytale — pearl white wooden furniture, pastel hues — every detail at Incanto pays homage to the aesthetic brilliance of Rome. While every dish in Incanto is delectable, the last course, the dessert — Chocolate Moelleux on red forest fruit couli, mango mousse and tiramisu ice cream — was truly to die for! It would be not fair if I forget to mention the man behind such sumptuous dishes was Chef Yann Chretien. Bling — the happening bar and lounge at The Zuri — sets the mood going for a wild night of partying. Plush couches, ornate décor, exquisite chandeliers with cheering
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B
A
(A) THE ZURI PRESIDENTIAL SUITE; (B) THE LOBBY WITH BLACK AND WHITE INTERIORS IN THE SHADES OF GREY; (C) SWIMMING POOL ; AND (D) MAYA SPA. (BELOW) PEOPLE ENJOYING FOOD AT THE IBIS, AN OPEN AIR POOLSIDE BAR AND GRILLE
C
D
sounds of football fans (a FIFA match was on at that time) gave the space a unique touch. At The Zuri Whitefield, you can tuck into designer comfort from a choice of 162 rooms, consisting of 118 Zuri rooms, 38 Zuri club rooms, four executive suites and two presidential suites. I stayed at the Zuri club room, which I must say was not only opulent in décor and detail, the accommodation at The Zuri Whitefield keeps one as comfortable as it can be and one truly feels “at home”. The rooms at Zuri offered me a refreshing change with their bold colours and far more plush and chic styling with all luxury and comforts. What attracted me the most was the plush interior — wallpapers on two sides of the walls (in the rooms) seemed to have been made up from skins of crocodile and snake, well, obviously they were just look-alike. Coming out of the interior luxury of rooms and moving towards outside leisure, The Ibis — an open air poolside bar and
grille — is a perfect place to relax or take a leisurely swim alongwith a lip smacking international barbeque. Following morning, as I stood by the window of my room with a cup of tea, the view before me felt almost surreal. And ready to take the surreal feeling to another level was my scheduled appointment in the hotel’s Maya Spa. The experience is tough to put in words, so I will leave it for the people to experience. But do I recommend it? You bet! ‘Zuri’, which in Swahili means ‘far beyond expectation’, promises nothing short of it. The Zuri attempts to redefine hospitality as we know it today. The essence of The Zuri in providing its guest a personal experience so that she/he will treasure and return for more, is established with a tag line that says ‘Welcome Back’. This is done by providing hospitality just the way it’s meant to be — personal, prompt and top notch, albeit with a hip, trendy and contemporary approach.
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THE PRIVATE DINING AREA AT SPECTRA OFFERS A WONDERFUL VIEW OF THE GREENS
Spectacular Spectra! One really doesn’t give much importance to the restaurants of a five-star property; after all, they are expected to be good. While many of them do manage to leave a lasting impression on their guests, there are some that carry the in-hotel-dining experience to the next level. Spectra, at The Leela Kempinski Gurgaon, falls in the latter category.
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PRIYANKA SAXENA
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(ABOVE) SPECIALISED CHEFS FROM DIFFERENT COUNTRIES COOK UP A DELECTABLE ARRAY OF DISHES; (BELOW) THE DESSERTS CORNER IS THE PERFECT ICING ON THE SPECTRA CAKE
mouth go watery! I decided to stick to the Indian cuisine for the main course, and was not disappointed! While the dahi wala murg will go a long way in the memory of my “best chicken ever”, the gatta curry, mangodi aur papad ki subzi and sweet lassi served in tiny kullads made for a refreshing change from the usual stale Indian platter. At Leela, everything is elaborate and done in style, so how could we expect the “desserts corner” to be any less extraordinary. Living up to the brand’s array of the best, from tempting cakes to a variety of Indian and international puddings, cookies, pastries, tarts, mousse, pies, the
Prominently located at the lobby area of the hotel, Spectra is a new-age restaurant serving global cuisine, spanning several continents.
“sweets”, we can safely say, are a perfect icing on the Spectra cake. My recommendation, the Mango Comfot! For a price of Rs 1,400 plus taxes (Sunday brunches are priced higher), Spectra offers a culinary experience that is unmatched and unforgettable. Spectra is much more than just good food. Spread over 16,000 sq ft with a seating capacity of 225 covers, the bistro features an interesting setting of culinary islands with live kitchens, private and semi-private seating enclosures and two large private dining rooms. The restaurant has an adjoining private lounge and a sophisticated and wellstocked bar — Rubicon. A glitzy entrance that showcases a flamboyant display of wines sourced from leading wine-producing countries, an under-lit glass runway with dramatic lightings that is just smooth enough to glide with no worries about tripping over and a view of the greenery that truly makes you forget that you are in the bustling town of Gurgaon — Spectra is truly spectacular!
AUGUST 2010 TRAVELX
raises, in form of both words and awards, about Leela’s hospitality, have already been done to the tee. So we will skip the preliminaries about the “ohs” and “ahs” on its classy furnishings, stylish décor and detail to designing, and get straight to the point — Spectra. From a brand like Leela, one expects nothing but the best and Spectra delivers just that. Having opened its doors last year with its first property in northern India, The Leela Kempinski Gurgaon’s “seven kitchen” restaurant is already giving many a established restaurants a run for their money. Prominently located at the lobby area of the hotel, Spectra is a new-age restaurant serving global cuisine, spanning several continents. Known for doing things “differently” and like a “pro”, Leela’s new landmark bistro combines many features into one that makes it a favourite, not just with the guests, but also with the people around. At Spectra, you are spoiled for choice. It often happens that when we go out for a lunch/dinner, different people may want to eat different things and we often end up ordering too may dishes from a melange of cuisines. But at Spectra, it’s each, to his own! From Thai to Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Indonesian, Indian and more, you are sure to satiate your taste buds to the core. The lamb chops and grilled chicken breast along with an assortment of breads at the “soup counter” serve as ideal starters to your meal. The vegetarians can opt from three types of grilled vegetables being cooked at different counters. And while you are somewhere between your starters and main course, do remember to pick a piece of its freshly made pizza (usually vegetarian) from its “grilled counter”. Talking about the grilled counter, the tenderloin, pork chops and bassa fish steak are tantalising enough to make any non-vegetarian’s
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TAKE IT FROM ME One of the best things about visiting San Francisco is that, although the city is “big” in terms of attractions and amenities, it is geographically small — only 49 square miles. Thus, it is very easy to see and do great many things in a short period of time. Joe D’Alessandro, President and CEO, San Francisco Convention & Visitors Bureau, suggests the top 10 things to do in San Francisco.
SANFRANCISCO
FOR ALL SEASONS & 10 REASONS
The Golden Gate Bridge, the most famous bridge in the world, manages to impress even the most experienced travellers with its stunning 1.7-mile span. Approximately 120,000 automobiles drive across it every day. Cable cars have been transporting people around San Francisco since the late 19th century. The cars run on tracks and are moved by an underground cable on three routes. Each ride provides a spectacular view of the city’s celebrated hills. Alcatraz, the notorious former prison, is located on an island of the same name in the middle of San Francisco Bay. Some of the United States’ most notorious criminals were incarcerated there. With a new authentic tour of the cell house, a visit to Alcatraz today is fascinating.
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Fisherman’s Wharf is also home to Pier 39, a festive waterfront marketplace that is one of the city’s most popular attractions, offering a large selection of dining, shopping and entertainment. From here, it’s a short walk to the Wax Museum, Ripley’s Believe It or Not! and the famous crab vendors’ selling walkaway crab and shrimp cocktails.
Union Square is the place for serious shoppers. Major departmental stores and the most exclusive designer boutiques line streets like Post, Sutter, Geary, Grant, Stockton and Powell. North Beach, the city’s Italian quarter, isn’t a beach at all. It’s a neighbourhood of romantic European-style sidewalk cafes, restaurants and shops centred near Washington Square along Columbus and Grant Avenues. Coit Tower atop Telegraph Hill offers a splendid vantage point for photos of the bridges and the Bay. Dragon’s Gate is what the entrance to Chinatown at Grant Avenue and Bush Street called. Inside it are 24 blocks of hustle and bustle with an abundance of exotic shops, renowned restaurants, food markets, temples and small museums. Dining in San Francisco is an attraction in itself. Known as America’s best restaurant city, San Francisco chefs excel at combining the fresh local ingredients, authentic international flavours and a touch of creative genius. Nightlife in San Francisco is a constantly changing scene. The “hottest” clubs currently are in the South of Market and Mission districts. The cultural experience in San Francisco is truly an unforgettable one. The city is home to internationally recognised symphony, opera and ballet companies. The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, the Asian Art Museum, the Palace of the Legion of Honor and other museums and galleries are devoted to the finest of classical and contemporary arts.
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