2009 Energy Savers Guide

Saturday, September 12, 2009

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“The voice of Interior Alaska since 1903�

Look inside for tips on how to save money on your home heating bill, electricity bill and at the gas pump.

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

Sun harvest: A solar home is built in Fairbanks

By ERIC MUEHLING For the News-Miner It was a cold February morning when I flipped the switch that started electrons flowing from my solar panels into the local electric utility grid.

With that flick of a switch I had become an alternative power producer. I was a solar harvester. I was making a difference. It felt good.

Last summer I began building what I will call twin solar cabins. My primary design goal was to incorporate many energy-conserving features into a small Arctic home. These features include super-thick insulated walls and triple-pane windows. My second goal: energy production with solar photovoltaic (PV) panels.

Now that the cabins are nearly finished, I believe I am the first in Alaska to build super-insulated housing with adjustable solar electric panels fully integrated into the structure’s design.

The cabins are modified Aframes. I chose the A-frame

array of 30 panels is hinged at the top so it can be tilted up and down — as the seasons change — to capture the most sunshine. The cabins face true south.

Solar electricity is clean and reliable. The solar electric system has no moving parts. It has worked without interruption since it was commissioned six months ago. The system turns itself on at sunrise, and automatically shuts down at sunset.

Solar electric production varies from month to month.

Fairbanks has a unique location on the globe. March is a great month to produce solar electric in the Far North because we have 12-hour days, sunlight reflects off snow adding to electric production, and historically March Charles Mason photo has many cloudless days. In The cabin floor, walls and ceilings are framed with 14-inch manufactured lumber I-joists. December, the sun is barely Five tons (exactly 10,025 pounds) of fire-resistant cellulose insulation were blown into two degrees about the horizon and solar production is near every nook and cranny of this modified A-frame structure. zero. Throughout the winter shape because a triangle is rooms upstairs and one bath- second-floor deck.

I remove snow and hoarfrost rigid and strong. Each cabin is room downstairs. A large solar Solar panels are integrat800 square feet with two bed- array serves as an awning for a ed into the home design. The Please see SOLAR, Page 3

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

SOLAR: System cost Continued from Page 2

from the solar array.

I hired an engineer to design a strong mounting system so the solar array wouldn’t fly away like a child’s kite in a gusty wind. The engineer reviewed 20 years of Fairbanks weather history before designing a system that would handle a possible 30 to 35 mile per hour wind load.

Each cabin has a 5,250 watt array. The total for both solar arrays is 10,500 watts. Electricity from these solar arrays is direct current (DC). An inverter converts the DC to 240 volts alternating current (AC). Hooking up the system to the utility grid was about as easy as plugging in a toaster.

The engineer provided a wir-

HOW SOLAR WORKS

ing diagram. I did the wiring myself.

The total system cost was around $85,000. That’s not cheap, but the solar panels come with a 20-year guarantee. Clearly my enthusiasm for conservation outweighs the economics of going solar.

On a sunny day each cabin produces 30 kilowatt-hours of power (more than enough to power an average home, according to the U.S. Department of Energy). My solar electricity is sold to the local utility Golden Valley Electric Association (GVEA). I have two electric meters. One meter is for the solar power I sell to GVEA. The other meter is for the electricity I buy like everyone else.

GVEA pays me about eight

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• Photovoltaic (PV) panels are made of thin silicon cells that convert sunlight into electricity.

• Each of my PV panels generates 175 watts on a bright sunny day.

• Each solar cabin has an array of 30 photovoltaic panels that produces 5,250 watts.

• Each array of 30 solar panels is 28 feet wide by 17 feet tall. Each array weighs 1,200 pounds.

The array can be tilted as the seasons change.

• An inverter converts direct current (DC) from the PV panels to alternating current (AC).

• The inverter is connected to an electric meter owned by (GVEA) which is connected to the utility grid.

• The solar electric power travels along electric power lines and is used by my nearest neighbors.

cents per kilowatt-hour (the wholesale price of electricity).

That’s roughly four dollars on a sunny day. On an overcast day GVEA’s payment is less than a quarter. At GVEA’s rate it would take over 60 years to pay back the cost of building this solar electric system.

Community-based contributions help support alternative power producers like myself through a program called

SNAP (Sustainable Natural Alternative Power). GVEA administers the SNAP. The cabin floor, walls and ceiling are framed with 14inch manufactured lumber Ijoists. Five tons (exactly 10,025 pounds) of fire-resistant cellulose insulation was blown into every nook and cranny of this modified A-frame structure.

These 14-inch thick walls have an R-value of 50. R-value

is a measure of thermal resistance. By comparison, many houses in Fairbanks are still built with 6-inch thick walls having an R-value of 20.

There are no north-facing windows. On the east and west walls I installed custom triplepane windows. A south-facing view window in the living room receives passive solar heating.

Please see SOLAR, Page 4

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

SOLAR

HOW MUCH DID MY SOLAR ELECTRIC SYSTEM COST?

Continued from Page 3

These structures are air tight. A vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) keeps water vapor out of the walls and roof. To prevent water vapor buildup in the living area, a heat exchanger scavenges heat from moist exhaust air and brings in dry, fresh air.

To conserve on electric use all lights inside are either compact fluorescent or super-efficient LED. The bathroom has a waterless composting toilet. I plan to add a ceramic infrared sauna. A vehicle plug-in timer should reduce electric use in the winter.

Higher resale value is a benefit to building energy-efficient housing. And there is a green benefit: so far my solar electric production has deferred more than 13,000 pounds of carbon dioxide from entering Earth’s atmosphere because every kilowatt produced with solar reduces the need to burn coal and oil.

I previously built two smaller solar electric systems. One system powers the lights and

Charles Mason photo

Solar photovoltaic panels produce 5,250 kilowatts of electricity in the bright sun. That’s enough to power an average home. The panels form an array that is hinged at the top.

The hanging rope is used to clear snow. a small refrigerator at a recreation cabin I own north of the Alaska Range. Another solar panel powers the computer I’m working on right now in Fairbanks to write this article.

Construction on the twin solar cabins is nearly com-

plete. I envision more energyefficient houses in Fairbanks.

I encourage you to read and contribute to my blog at www. naturecabins.com/blog/

computer-based science lessons at the UAF Geophysical Institute. He has built 12 cabins in Alaska, is a landlord, and former photographer at the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner.

He wants to remind everyone that the UAF Cooperative Extension Eric Muehling is a multimedia Service has excellent publications designer who creates interactive about building in cold climates.

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• Cost more than $85,000. Includes 60 solar panels (10,500 watts), two mounting systems, two inverters, wire and other supplies. This works out to $8.29 per KW. A national average cost for new solar PV systems is $9 to $15 per KWH (in 2009). One thing that kept my cost low was that I did all of the installation myself.

• Tax credits: A Federal tax credit of 30 percent of the system‚ purchase price is $25,500. This makes the cost basis more like $60,000. Of course, future depreciation on the system has a tax advantage.

• GVEA payment policy: In 2009 GVEA paid about eight cents per KWH for solar electricity (this is half the consumer rate and what GVEA calls ‘avoided cost’).

Most other states require net metering, a policy where electric utilities buy and sell power from solar and wind producers at the same price.

Net Metering is an economic incentive to alternative energy producers.

GVEA has opposed net metering legislation and regulation.

• One measure of sunlight is solar hours.

Fairbanks, Alaska receives an annual average of 3.3 solar hours/day.

At GVEA’s current rate this works out to a GVEA payment of $948/year. At GVEA’s current ‘avoided cost’ rate it would take more than 60 years to pay back the cost of building this solar electric system.

• Community contributions: Community-based contributions help support producers of alternative energy through a program called SNAP (Sustainable Natural Alternative Power).

GVEA administers the SNAP program.

5

Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

Paid Advertising Content

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

As energy woes grow, so does list of weatherization tips Home-heating fuel costs have soared in the past couple of years.

With winter creeping closer, building and energy professionals are busy trying to get Fairbanks energy healthy, and some residents are taking matters into their own hands by attacking energy inefficiencies at home.

“I was up in my attic, sealing the bypass around the wood stove chimney, blowing 25 bales of cellulose into the attic and putting a new bathroom fan in,” said Rich Seifert, professor of energy and housing at the University of Alaska Fairbanks.

“It’s dirty. It’s dusty,” he said. “Hellaciously bad working conditions, and those are the kind of places that people will need to go.”

The extreme climate and high energy demand of Fairbanks residents coupled with soaring energy prices have ignited a nearly universal

interest in home energy efficiency in recent years.

To the tens of thousands of residents looking to make their homes more efficient, experts recommend a subsidized energy audit as the only starting point of the process.

Since they accept that not everyone can or will schedule an audit before this winter, they are trying to disseminate low-cost, do-it-yourself knowledge so people can at least take steps toward efficiency.

“Everybody’s going to be pressed for time. They’re just going to dive right in,” Seifert said.

Anticipating the rush, building professionals have produced a ream of handbooks, consumer guides and checklists designed to help people understand their unique energy inefficiencies.

The public can learn about weatherization at the Portal on Retrofits, Training and Loans, a public outreach program created by the Alaska Housing Finance Corp.,

the Cold Climate Housing Research Center and the Fairbanks Economic Development Corporation.

Experts promote energy audits because they establish a list of priorities and outline the most economical order of operations. The priority list, for example, would avert the waste of time and money that could result from insulating before air sealing the attic.

But what can people do now, before winter arrives, that doesn’t cost too much? Here’s what the experts have to say.

Plug those holes Sealing cracks between the ceiling and attic ranks high, if not first, on a general priority list, said Michael Musick, an energy-efficiency consultant at the Cold Climate Housing Research Center.

A vapor and air sealant will prevent warm indoor air from leaking into the attic, known as the stacking effect.

“Your house becomes like a chimney. If air is leaking out the ceiling, then it must be

replaced,” Musick said.

Cold outdoor air replaces heated indoor air. Furthermore, people inside breathing, cooking and bathing saturate the air and create a lot of water vapor.

“That leaks into the attic space and rises in temperature, turns back to liquid and freezes, causing an ice buildup in the attic itself or in vents,” Musick said.

Slowing down the biggest leaks in the ceiling nearly eliminates the stack effect, he said. While caulking the obvious holes in the attic, space around the attic hatch and around ductwork is easy enough to do, locating smaller leaks requires more technology. A main feature of an energy audit is the blowerdoor test, a fan-like device that sucks the air out of a home to pinpoint cracks in floors and ceilings.

Adding insulation to the attic floor and outside of the basement wall is often the next step in suppressing heat loss.

Spray foam and cellulosic insulations can fill in small cavities, but moisture problems can occur in crawl spaces if water has nowhere to escape, according to an insulation guide released by the Cooperative Extension Service. Spray foam insulation, which is sold in different expanding levels for doors and windows versus floors and other structures, costs from about $7 to $11 for about 12 ounces.

Blue and pink foam insulation boards, made out of extruded polystyrene, run roughly $34 for a 2-inch-thick, 4-by-8-foot board. The material excels at blocking water vapor, and the guide cautioned that moisture problems could result if the boards were not properly installed. The same basic wisdom applies to log cabins, Seifert said. Air-sealing floors and attics and Permachinking will tighten up a cabin.

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

COSTS: Taking care of minor home details to save money, fuel expenses Continued from Page 6

between the logs inside and out,” Seifert said. The finish blends in with the color of the wood without harming its aesthetics.

Small leaks need attention, too Weatherstripping the door, which runs about $10 to $20, can help block drafts and boost indoor comfort and offers the most energy savings in old, leaky homes.

The user-friendly kit needs to match a specific door frame type and includes three pieces that fit snugly to the side and top door jambs, often made out of vinyl or foam.

Keep things covered Installing a water-heater blanket, which costs about $20, is relatively easy and can reap a quick payback, Musick said. Wrapping a water heater and hot water pipes in insulation helps slow the cooling of sitting hot water. Beware with a gas water heater, he

light bulbs for compact fluorescent bulbs, which last 10 times as long and use 75 percent less electricity, also brings instant savings on electric bills.

Using appliances efficiently can also save money, Seifert said. Wash clothes in warm water but rinse them in cold water, he said.

“Restrict the shower flow head because hot water is a big expense,” he said.

Draining 1 or 2 gallons from the water heater each month keeps rust from gathering on the bottom. Rusty water heaters are less efficient and durable.

“It’s a good way to enhance the life of your water heater,” Seifert said.

Hiring a professional to tune the boiler also can make a world of difference.

Setting the thermostat lower at bedtime and when the house is empty, or delegating that task to a $40 programmable thermostat available at Those electric bills hardware stores, can put a Switching incandescent dent in the heating bill.

said, which requires leaving some areas uninsulated for combustion air supply.

“Turn the water heater down to 120 degrees, and wrap it with a blanket,” Musick said.

Covering windows traps heat indoors, reduces condensation buildup and blocks drafts, Musick said.

A $15 window-insulation kit includes a shrink-wrap film that adheres to the inside window frames using a blow dryer or other heating device.

While the shrink-wrap is only durable enough to last about one season, he said, it can have a huge payoff for singlepane windows in particular.

“If you can stop that condensation and frost that inexpensively, it’s very well-worth doing,” Musick said.

A heavier plastic sheeting, which costs about $1 per foot, can be stapled to the outside of the window and fastened around the edges.

Where to go To get started, check out “Tips on Insulating an Existing House,” a detailed, free online guide from energy experts that walks you through the technical process of insulating and air sealing your home. The summer issue of Alaska Building Science News, also available online for free, explains and simplifies the process of applying for income-based weatherization and programs that rebate up to $10,000 for making energy improvements. An oasis of information and free advice from energy profes-

sionals is available at the Portal on Retrofits, Training and Loans, open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Monday through Friday at 326 Driveway St., Suite 100, directly west of the NewsMiner building. The Portal also streamlines the process of scheduling an energy audit and signing up for do-it-yourself courses offered by Seifert and the Cooperative Extension Service.

“It’s a big education challenge to get people aware of what they should do,” Seifert said. “These are exciting times, no doubt about it. The great juggernaut is just starting to roll.”

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

Weatherization Q&A from the Alaska Housing Finance Corp.

Q. When did the home energy rebate program begin?

A. As of May 16, 2008, the Alaska Housing Finance Corp. is accepting AkWarm Energy Ratings performed

by AkWarm certified energy raters for the home energy rebate program. Click here for a list of energy raters. You will need to have an energy rating done by one of them to get started on the rebate program.

Q. How do I get a home energy rebate?

A. Sign up for an AkWarmTM certified energy rater to perform an As-Is rating of your home’s energy efficiency. Following the rating, the rater will provide a list of possible energy improvements specific to your home.

Choose from that list the best improvements and make the improvements yourself or hire a contractor. Sign up on the master list to have the rater return to verify the work and provide a new rating showing how much the home’s energy efficiency has improved. Apply to AHFC for the rebate. You have 18 months to apply for the rebate from the date of the initial as-is energy rating.

For more details about the

ALASKA HOUSING FINANCE CORP. WEATHERIZATION PROGRAM FACTSHEET Saving energy

• The weatherization program is for individuals who meet certain income guidelines for eligibility.

• It provides free weatherization assistance for homes, rentals, and multifamily dwellings.

• The program has been in existence almost 30 years and has contributed to substantial energy savings throughout the state.

How it works

• Individuals should do an initial check of income guidelines based on community/region to see if they qualify.

• An individual or family with income less than the listed HUD requirements may qualify.

• Individuals should call the weatherization provider for their area of the state to check full eligibility requirements and apply for the program.

• Once accepted in the program, the client is put on a waiting list, and the home is scheduled for a weatherization assessment. The assessment determines the weatherization measures to be performed on the home.

• When they come to the top of the waiting list, the client’s home is scheduled for the weatherization work.

• Once completed by the weatherization crew, the work is verified by the weatherization assessor.

2008 Legislation and regulations

• The legislature provided AHFC with $200 million for the weatherization program.

• Income eligibility requirements were expanded from 60 percent of median income to 100 percent of median income. Priority is still given to elderly, disabled, young children and families under 60 percent of median income.

• The five weatherization providers throughout the state have been expanded to include 15 state-designated housing authorities to do the weatherization work.

• A person may not participate in both the weatherization program and the home energy rebate program.

More information

Check our Web site for the latest updates at www.ahfc.state.ak.us/energy or call the hotline at 1-877-325-2508 statewide.

program, rebate amounts, and rebate application? requirements, see the home A. After you have the energy rebate program guide- required As-Is energy rating lines. performed, have completed the recommended energy Q. Where can I get a improvements, and have the homeowner home energy Post Improvement energy rating, you will apply for the rebate using the post-rating Made from the highest quality rebate application form.

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sign up with an energy rater in order to participate in the home energy rebate program.

The central list will allow better coordination of energy rating services around the state. Once initiated, all new individuals wishing to participate in the home energy rebate program will be able to contact the call center or access the Web site to have their name put on the central listing.

HOME WEATHERIZATION

Current plans are for homeowners who are already on existing energy rater lists to be automatically added.

Q. Who pays for the energy ratings for the home energy rebate program?

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The weatherization program provides weatherization work on houses, apartments, & mobile homes for qualified households.

Renters and homeowners with low to moderate income may be eligible for thermal doors, windows, insulation, airsealing, weatherstripping and heating system repair at absolutely no cost. Save money on your fuel and electric bills! The paperwork is extremely simple!

A household is automatically eligible if any household resident documents receipt of SSI, Energy Assistance (LIHEAP), ATAP, TANF, Senior Care Benefits, APA/IA or Food Stamps. Homes weatherized after 3/31/08 are not eligible

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

Paid Advertising Content

Low Mass boilers versus High Mass We are often asked to explain the differences between a high mass boiler and a low mass boiler. The answer is fairly simple; high mass means large volume (generally cast iron) and low mass means small in size (generally welded steel). The idea behind a big boiler is that once a train starts moving it’s hard to stop. The idea behind a low mass is more like a Prius, fast, light and efficient.

First of all, the matter of efficiency is where, understandably, many people become confused . The government has rated the different heating units according to the AFUE system. This is simply a laboratory test that says when you burn oil in this unit it turns a certain percentage of the fuel into heat. The Brookhaven testing labs ,one of the most prestigious in the country, studied the operation of all boilers in the field. They found that the AFUE rating was very misleading. Units that tested out at 95 percent AFUE dropped down 12 points when tested in the field. Others dropped by as much as 26 points.

It has long been thought that a cast iron boiler would last longer than welded steel boilers, but that has not proven true in all cases. The most popular low mass boiler (2.5 gallons water volume) has a 25 year limited lifetime warranty. Thousands of units in Fairbanks and throughout the states are still in operation after 25 years.

It is also generally held to be true that a high mass boiler works better for radiant heating systems, but with proper installation, a low mass boiler can work quite well for radiant heat and also save money One problem that low mass boilers face is the fact that they generally have a lower stack temperature. The typical cast iron boiler has about a 500 degree F. stack temperature the low mass units about 375 degrees F. This lower temperature can cause some problems if it is not handled correctly. Most times a proper stainless steel liner can solve the problem because the existing chimney may simply be too big for the lower temperatures.

Cast iron boilers are generally very reliable and have only a few disadvantages. The main disadvantage is their inability to be turned off and on according to the weather. This is particularly noticeable in summer.

(We all know someone who has a garage that is overheated by his cast iron boiler in the summer time.) Low mass boilers are designed to heat up and cool down as many times as needed, and because of their size they are more adaptable to the changes in weather. Cast iron has the disadvantage of being easily damaged from thermal shock. Most of us have heard about a cast iron boiler cracking. It is virtually unheard of for a welded steel boiler to crack from thermal shock.

High mass boilers are heavy. A typical one can weigh 700 pounds and they are not easily transported. Heaven help you if your boiler room is in the basement and your 700 pound boiler has to be removed. Low mass boilers on the other hand are light and easily shipped or moved.

A high mass cast iron boiler is designed to idle constantly, and this is considered normal, yet if you did the same thing with your automobile you would certainly burn more gasoline. There are several low mass boilers out on the market today that do not idle and as a result they can save as much as 30% on your fuel bill.

More interesting information about these boilers will be available at the upcoming Winter Show at the Carlson Center on September 25,26,27.

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

The where and why of using vapor barriers, house wraps

By COLD CLIMATE HOUSING RESEARCH CENTER STAFF Vapor barriers and house wraps are a critical part of controlling moisture and air flow in and around your home.

Working in conjunction with your walls, floor and roof, the right type and application of these products will help you conserve energy, prevent mold growth and maintain the structural integrity of your home.

Not using these products or using one incorrectly can wreak havoc.

Vapor barriers A vapor barrier, also known as a vapor diffusion retarder, is a layer of material designed to slow or nearly block the movement of water vapor.

How much a vapor barrier impedes the movement of water is referred to as its permeability rating or, for short, “perm” rating.

So it’s a bit misleading to use the term vapor barrier because many materials in this category do allow some moisture through.

Six-mil thick plastic sheeting is a typical vapor barrier material pre-

scribed by codes in extreme cold climates, as its perm rating is low.

All homes generate moisture indoors. Cooking, bathing, breathing — all these activities create water vapor.

Ventilation, which is essential to exchange moisture-laden air with clean dry air, helps to reduce the quantity of moisture in your home but not enough to eliminate the need for a vapor barrier.

Without a barrier, moisture can penetrate your walls and roof spaces.

Approximately 98 percent of water vapor in a home travels by air, but the remainder moves by diffusion through solid materials such as the studs in your walls.

When these materials become cold in winter, condensation forms and can trigger mold growth and other problems.

The extreme air pressure and temperatures differences that occur in Fairbanks in winter exacerbate condensation problems.

And, in the case of modern construction, tight building envelopes can serve to concentrate moisture problems in the absence of adequate

ventilation.

House wraps House wraps, on the other hand, are designed to be permeable enough to allow water vapor to pass through them but will stop bulk water like rain from passing through — sort of like Gortex in clothing.

In addition, house wraps can help minimize the movement of air in and out of the exterior walls. Losing air from a house in an uncontrolled manner means you are losing heat.

This loss amounts to extra fuel costs and can become a burden on your budget.

To repel water effectively and reduce airflow, house wraps must be detailed correctly and applied using the manufacturer’s recommended methods and adhesives.

All those protrusions through your walls such as vents, electrical connections and architectural features must be carefully accounted for.

The right types of house wraps can perform an important job in windy places by stemming significant heat loss.

Now comes the tricky part — some

house wraps can serve as vapor barriers and vice versa. Placement and permeability is a fairly complicated issue.

There might be certain cases when house wraps are not necessary, but when used are almost always placed on exterior of a house and over its sheathing.

Final thoughts The placement and permeability of vapor barriers and house wraps are addressed by building codes but vary by region.

Vapor barriers are required in Fairbanks. This article only touches on the details required to choose and install vapor barriers and house wraps.

The Cold Climate Housing Research Center and Cooperative Extension Service have resources you can tap to help you make the right decisions.

Doing your research up front can save a lot of problems later on.

Energy Focus articles promote energy awareness for the Cooperative Extension Service and the Cold Climate Housing Research Center. For questions or comments please contact CCHRC at 457-3454.

11

Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

Q&A: Differences in home energy rebate program and weatherization program combined ratings: Up to $325 is allowed for the initial Asis rating and up to $175 for the post improvement rating.

Any rating costs over these amounts are the responsibility of the homeowner.

for the home energy rebate program?

A. Yes.

Q. I heard there will be a rebate for buying a new 5 Star Plus home. How do I apply?

A. The Rebate program may provide a $7,500 rebate for qualified new 5 star plus homes.

• 5 star plus application and details • 5 star plus new construction energy rebate encumbrance request

Q. Should I get an energy rating on my home now so I can participate in the home energy rebate program?

A. An As-Is energy ratQ. Who pays the upfront ing performed between April cost for the energy-effi5, 2008, and May 15, 2008, ciency improvements in will be accepted as the initial the home energy rebate rating for the home energy program? rebate Program. However, the Q: I want to become an A. The homeowner. Howcosts of these ratings are paid energy rater for the home ever, AHFC is offering loans by the homeowner and will energy rebate program. to qualified borrowers up to not be reimbursed by AHFC. Who do I contact? $30,000 through the second The cost of ratings done after A: AHFC trains raters mortgage for energy conserva- May 15, 2008, will be reimthrough the Alaska Building tion. bursed by AHFC directly to Science Network. However, the homeowner, up to $325 the application submission Q. What if I don’t have for the as-is rating and $175 process is currently closed the money upfront to pay for the post-improvement rat- pending changes in regulafor the energy improveing. You will have 18 months tions and review of applicaments in the home energy from the date of the as-is rat- tions already approved. rebate? ing to make improvements, A. AHFC is offering loans have the post-improvement Q. What’s the difference to qualified borrowers up to rating completed, and submit between the home energy $30,000 through the second your application to AHFC for rebate program and the mortgage for energy conserva- a rebate. weatherization program? tion.

A. The home energy rebate Q. If I start working program has no income Q. Where do I get more now on my house to make requirements and focuses on information on how to it more energy efficient, owner-occupied homes. Homemake energy efficiency will I get a home energy owners pay for certain energyimprovements? rebate? efficiency improvements and A. Visit the AHFC A. The home energy are rebated a portion of the Research Information Center rebate program requires cost for doing so. The weathweb page. Please note: only an AkWarmTM energy raterization program has income items listed in the AkWarm ing prior to any work. Only requirements, and the weathImprovement Options Report items listed in the AkWarm erization work is provided for following your home energy Improvement Options Report free by specific weatherization rating will be eligible for the will be eligible for the proagencies and housing authorihome energy rebate. Talking gram. ties. with your energy rater about the best improvements and Q. How long will it take Q. Can I participate what you should do is critical. to get my home energy in both the home energy rebate after I submit an rebate program and the Q. Will the home energy application to AHFC? weatherization program? rebate program be availA. It’s estimated that there A: No. You may participate able for rentals or busiwill be a 60-day turnaround in one or the other program, nesses? time. but not both.

A: The home energy rebate program is focused on owner-occupied homes. AHFC intends to make the rebate program available to as wide a range of housing as practical.

Fall is the time for Condos may qualify. Currently • Kitchen & bath the rebate program does not remodels include rentals or businesses (such as a bed and breakfast).

• Window & door

Q. Are condos eligible

allow more people to qualify.

However, persons at 60 percent median income will have a higher priority.

Q. Who do I contact to see if I qualify for free weatherization?

A. First check the income guidelines to get a general idea of your eligibility. Click Please see Q&A, Page 15

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Continued from Page 8

12

Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

State programs offer rebates, tips for energy efficiency Energy- and construction-focused agencies across the state regularly set aside resources to help business owners and managers, homeowners and other Alaskans cut their heating costs.

In warmer states, such efforts might amount simply to a luxury service. In Alaska, which hosts the country’s coldest, longest and darkest winters, such efforts can easily be viewed as a near-necessity.

With less disposable income floating around, such savings programs become even more important to Fairbanks.

The state’s Housing Finance Corporation and Fairbanks’ electrical association both offer energy-effi-

ciency aid.

The programs can help people save on holiday lighting, completely remodel a warehouse’s lighting system, cut heating bills at home and make other smart improvements in between.

Lighting Light bulbs gobble up onefifth of the electrical use in the United States, according to the Golden Valley Electric Association.

Research indicates that figure can be halved if people replace older, less-efficient lighting with more modern fixtures, the association says.

GVEA has a trio of programs to, respectively, help people save electricity at home, on the job, and when constructing new homes.

First, the association’s HomeSense program lines residents up with an energy-efficiency specialist for a home “energy audit.”

The $40 audit can leave renters and homeowners with tips on how to save energy, and can also leave participants with up to a dozen compact fluorescent bulbs, a vehicle plug-in timer, an electric insulating blanket for their water heaters, a lowflow shower head and other appliances.

Second is the association’s BuilderSense program, where participating home builders can get partial rebates for smart lighting moves, insulating a new home’s water heater properly, and other steps.

Third, the BusinessSense program extends up

to $20,000 to any business that, working with GVEA and an electrical contractor under an approved business plan, reduces its lighting load through retrofit projects. The business program is available to firms that pay GVEA’s commercial rates.

GVEA has more information on all those projects at its Web site (www.gvea.com) and its office (452-1151).

Home heating The Alaska Housing Finance Corp. last year started a rebate program to reimburse property owners for making their homes more energy-efficient.

The program supplemented a long-running weatherization effort available to residents who earn up to, but

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Holiday lights The association also suggests residents stick to energy-efficient holiday lights to save on their electric bills.

Traditional — “standard incandescent” — lights can use almost 100 times as much as the most efficient — “light emitting diode (LED)” — holiday lights and have shorter lifespans, meaning people might save by buying cheaper lights but will pay more in the long run than with more efficient products.

GVEA points to online calculators (www.gvea.com/ memserv/energysense/kwhcalc.php) to help residents figure out how much they’d save by replacing standard light bulbs with compact fluorescents.

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not above, the state’s median income.

Both programs require homeowners or renters to get an energy audit prior to work.

Audits help pinpoint which steps — such as sealing air flows around plumbing and lighting fixtures, re-insulating the ceiling, or fixing the heating system — are most important to cut a particular home’s energy bills.

In the case of the weatherization program, available to those who earn less than median household income for Alaska, the agency Interior Weatherization (452-5323) performs an audit and the resulting work.

The rebate program, available to residents of all income brackets, can return thousands of dollars to people who improve their home’s energy-efficiency through a plan approved by an energy rater.

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15

Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

Q&A: Appliances, lighting Q. Are energy-efficient appliances and lighting here for the weatherization eligible for the rebate program income guidelines. program?

If you think you are eligible, A: Energy Star appliances contact one of the weatheriza- and lighting (www.energystion providers listed for your tar.gov) are great idea when area. Click here for a list of upgrading your home and weatherization program procan help reduce your energy viders. If you live in a home bills. However, appliances owned by a State-designated and lighting are not eligible regional housing authority, for a rebate at the present you should contact the houstime. ing authority directly.

Q. What kind of trainQ. Is the weatherizaing is AHFC offering to tion program available for meet the demand for rentals or condos? additional contractors, A: The weatherization pro- energy raters, etc? gram does include rentals and A. AHFC has a schedule condos. of training which is updated quarterly and is being impleQ. Will homes that have mented through a number of been weatherized in the industry partners. Click here past be eligible for the for a list of scheduled trainweatherization program? ing. (This training is not A: If a home was weatheropen to the general public.) ized prior to May 14, 2008, it will be eligible to be re-weathQ. Does this program erized in the weatherization cover the cost of switchprogram for those individuals ing from oil heat to elecmeeting income guidelines. tric or wood heating?

However, these previously A. The energy rating looks weatherized homes will not at the home’s overall effibe as high a priority as those ciency. It is able to model two never weatherized. different heating systems (a primary and secondary).

Q. I am a building Depending on all the other materials supplier. Do I components of the home, contact AHFC about sup- it may support a new heatplying materials for the ing system. When you have home energy rebate or the energy rating done, it’s weatherization programs? a good idea to tell the rater A. Suppliers will be workwhat you might be planning ing with weatherization proto do so the rater can model viders, housing authorities, it in the energy-rating softhomeowners, and contractors ware. which choose to do weatherThe only items for which ization work. you can receive a rebate are those that appear on the Q. I am a contractor.

Improvement Options Report Can I do work for the for your home, which is home energy rebate or generated by the AkWarm™ weatherization programs? energy-rating software.

A. Homeowners might wish to hire a contractor to Q. Is the home energy help make energy improverebate taxable income? I ments to their homes for the heard that I will receive a home energy rebate program.

The weatherization program 1099 form from AHFC. A. AHFC has received a providers also hire either legal opinion from the State crews or contractors. It is of Alaska Department of highly recommended that Law, which requires AHFC to contractors and other indiissue a 1099-G to individuals viduals in the construction who receive payments under industry receive specialized training in energy-efficiency this program. It is up to the recipient to contact their tax & weatherization work. advisor about any possible tax consequences.

A United Way of the Tanana Valley Member Agency

Providing care for seniors with Alzheimer’s FAIRBANKS RESOURCE AGENCY• 805 AIRPORT RD. • 456-8901

Continued from Page 11

Save Energy Save Money Save the Planet 1

Get a Home$ense Audit from GVEA

2

Switch to compact fluorescent bulbs

3

Use a timer when plugging in vehicles

4

Unplug phantom appliances

5

Replace aging appliances with ENERGY STAR models

6

Turn off computers overnight

7 8 9 10

Plug computer components into one power strip and turn off when not in use Run dishwasher with full loads and air dry dishes Install foam insulators behind outlets and switch plates on exterior walls Clean refrigerator coils every three months

16

Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

Why Alaska is special when it comes to homebuilding

By RICH SEIFERT

update of the “Special Considerations” publication, we have included a table, which specifies by region the minimum insulation levels.

Look at which climate zone is

appropriate for your building. In Fairbanks and the Interior, the third-row figures are applicable (Interior, Southwest Alaska).

Ceilings should have between R-38 and R-49 insulation levels.

NORDIC SMART

Nokian has done one thing for over 70 years: manufacture tires for people who live near the Arctic Circle.

They have never branched out to find other markets.

They are at home, much like Interior Alaska, in the cold, dark and ice.

With energy prices volatile and unpredictable, we urge more than minimum levels of insulation in all buildings now being constructed. This will likely be a wise investment since it is difficult to predict what the cost of fuels will be in the future with any certainty. Insulation becomes more your friend every day, as these costs increase.

Insulation will serve you for the life of the building. It is a wise and safe investment.

Please see BUILDING, Page 17

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This is the equivalent of 1215 inches of fiberglass or cellulose. For exterior walls, R-25 is the minimum, or about eight and a half inches of fiberglass equivalent. Note that this is the minimum, so it will be hard to meet this specification with a single-stud wall, although it can be done.

Keep in mind that windows and doors are typically big energy losers in modern homes, so they should be optimized as well. This publication gives minimums for those too.

16356091 9-12-09EG

A crucial Cooperative Extension Service publication on homebuilding was updated recently and new information was added. It is the very Alaska-centered “Special Considerations for Building in Alaska.”

And are there ever special things about building a home Alaska that require planning, preparation and experience. For foundations there is the risk of high water table, and in some areas, the threat of permafrost and its melting and subsidence, which can make a wreck of a new home. Even where there isn’t the threat of permafrost, the soil may be fine-grained and subject to frost heave. This is a condition where the soil may freeze and move a foundation or stress it to crack.

But energy use is also a great concern. This is where insulation and sealing to prevent air leakage are crucial. In the latest

CentralBoiler.com

17

Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

Figure out your home’s orientation before you build

By CCHRC staff Home orientation is one of the first things to think about when building a home.

Most houses are designed for street appeal, meaning they are designed to give a certain appearance from the street.

Others are designed with windows carefully placed to capture a fantastic view. In our climate, it’s important to take into account topography of the property, solar orientation, wind direction, vegetation, shade and proper drainage.

You may hear a lot about the importance of south-facing windows.

In the winter, a home will get more sun from the south.

South-facing windows can enable passive solar power to provide heat to the home.

Many south-facing homes

in the Fairbanks North Star Borough see a decrease in fuel usage in late February and March.

If your home has a lot of north-facing windows, you are going to lose more heat and gain less heat as well.

If you are on a south slope, and you orient your windows to the southwest, you are going to get the hotter afternoon sun heating your home.

If you orient a little more toward the east and the southeast, you’ll get the morning sun. These are things you’ll have to think about when looking at your site.

Proper orientation is important if you wish to add solar panels to your home.

South-facing panels are going to gather more light, and therefore, more power.

Seasonal shading from exte-

BUILDING: Need to know Continued from Page 16

The publication is numbered HCM-00952 and may be downloaded from Extension’s online publications catalog at www.uaf. edu/ces/pubs. It is also available at the Tanana District office

or may be ordered by calling 1-877-520-5211.

Rich Seifert is the energy and housing specialist with the University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service. He may be reached at 474-7201 or ffrds@uaf.edu.

Many southfacing homes in the Fairbanks North Star Borough see a decrease in fuel usage in late February and March. rior sources is something else you will want to keep in mind.

You don’t want as much shade in the winter, but you will in the summer, particularly on the south and west side of a home. It’s nice to have some vegetation to slow

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Energy Focus articles promote home awareness for the Cooperative Extension Service (CES) and the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). For questions or comments please contact CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

1.

“Alaska gas within two years” is my pledge. The clock would not start on PPM2.5 until natural gas is fully available at a cost similar to that enjoyed in South-central. Further, I will expect all political and fiscal support possible for us to obtain affordable natural gas to heat our homes and businesses.

I will seize local control of PPM2.5 to insure the implementations are favorable to our unique circumstances.

Concurrently, the university’s air movement model will be completed and calibrated, then used to update and confirm existing databases so implementation can be focused rather than a blanket toss.

Furthermore, I will insist wildfires will be exempted when determining borough violations. Think about it.

No government, at any level, gains credibility when mandating the impossible. Lastly, while all PPM2.5 violators may be identified, they will be given technical and possible financial assistance, only commercial violators would be subject to possible prosecution.

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Know where the sun will be at noon in the winter. If you are a morning person and need that morning light, orient your home so that morning light comes in.

If you like to entertain in the evening, and you like to go out on your deck, it will be important to face that deck toward the west or the northwest.

Before you begin building, make a list of the ideals you want for your home and compare it with what you can accomplish on the actual site.

Get the big picture of how orientation will affect your life in your new home.

As Borough Mayor, the issues of energy and particulate matter in the air (PPM2.5) are the first issues I will immediately address. These are grave issues facing our communities and are so entwined that tackling one affects the other. I will solve with a common sense approach.

My priority list is as follows:

2.

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the capture of the solar heat in the summer afternoons.

Wind direction is important to consider when orienting a house. In some areas, prevailing winds can pile up snow in front of windows and doors.

However, orienting your house to shield from the wind is more of a consideration for coastal regions than in Interior Alaska.

Before you break ground, observe the drainage features on your property. You will alter that drainage when you start moving dirt. Water will tend to drain in a certain pattern around your home, which can be detrimental to your foundation.

Ideally, when you buy a piece of land, get to know that piece of land before you build on it. Understand where shade will be during the summer.

18

Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

With so many options, what’s the best boiler for your home?

By ADAM WASCH Modern boilers offer a wide range of customized options to maximize efficiency. If your boiler has an old pilot light that stays lit all the time, you’re probably a good candidate for a replacement boiler or, at least, a retrofit. Alaska’s many heating days justify paying for the most efficient system up front, since the extra money you spend for efficiency gains will be paid back several times during the system’s operating lifetime.

But take care — there is no perfect system because of the number of variables involved in designing a boiler that is sized and outfitted correctly for

your particular home. Looking for an Energy Star label is a good start, but there’s a lot more to consider. Ensure that whomever you hire to provide, install or retrofit a system is cognizant of the fine details and performs necessary calculations. These calculations are especially important if you’re installing the sophisticated components and sensors required by today’s most efficient boilers.

First, the basics. Boilers heat water, which is pumped throughout a system of pipes and radiators that conduct heat into your rooms. Boiler efficiency is measured by its annual fuel utilization efficiency. There is some dispute

how useful AFUE ratings are because they do not account well for heat loss from boilers that maintain operating temperatures throughout the day.

Also, AFUE does not measure heat loss from boilers or pipes that are located outside insulated living spaces such attics, basements and garages. AFUE will not account for room heat that escapes from open flues.

Nevertheless, AFUE remains a basic standard.

Most boilers are connected to a baseboard loop system, which is just a series of low-profile radiators that distribute heat along the length of a pipe in a room before returning water to the boiler.

A single thermostat triggers

heating cycles. New boilers are required to attain a minimum AFUE rating of 80 percent, which means 80 percent of the heat generated is useful heat instead of heat that escapes up the chimney.

A major design option is to install a radiant floor heating system. In this scenario, loops of pipes are placed into your subfloor to heat from the floor level up. This arrangement can produce more even heat throughout a room than a baseboard system can because the whole of the room’s floor space can be crisscrossed with pipes. Also, a radiant floor system has the benefit of producing more thermal comfort because more of the heat is felt

in the living space instead of rising to the ceiling.

The next major decision is whether you will install a standard combustion boiler or a condensing boiler. A condensing boiler is more efficient but more expensive. These boilers generate more useful heat by extracting energy from the flue gas and condensing the water vapor created by the combustion process. This process makes possible AFUE ratings of 90 percent or greater.

One reason these boilers are more expensive is that they require a stainless steel heat exchanger and a way to drain the condensate.

Please see BOILER, Page 23

Knowing the best way to go green with your home can be tough

By ADAM WASCH Green is a one-word metaphor for earth-friendly. Or good health. It might refer to renewable products. Surely you’ve heard of sustainable. Bio-based?

Organic? How about socially responsible? Who’s responsible for this? More often than not, marketers are — that’s who. So be careful whose claims you believe.

All products present tradeoffs between cost, quality and convenience.

And every product affects the environment or our health in some way. These impacts can be measured by considering what ingredients go into making a product, the energy used during the manufacturing process, and the fuel consumed to transport products to mar-

ket. How long a product lasts and if it can be recycled are additional concerns.

Your definition of “green” will vary based on your criteria. For example, recycling is generally thought to be a green practice but not always. In Fairbanks, recycling glass can consume more energy than it saves because of the transportation involved. Plus, glass requires a lot of energy to clean and transform for other use. Because glass is inert and not especially damaging when buried, recyclers tend to focus instead on recycling metal or plastics.

Is it better to operate an efficient oil furnace or burn wood, which is renewable, but typically produces less efficient heat and causes more air pollution?

Fairbanks relies on electricity produced by burning coal, but even clean coal

technology produces hazardous waste.

Emissions control systems prevent pollutants from entering the air, but the pollutants still have to be stored.

Some green ideas seem to strike at the heart of our values. For example, it is more efficient and impacts the environment less when people live in multifamily housing units, use public transportation and reside in temperate climate zones. This pretty much excludes the way of life loved by many Alaskans. Should we move?

Green thinking can become politicized quickly if people feel it infringes on their way of life or threatens their economic security. This is why the most highly marketed green ideas emphasize efficiency and economy. Few people balk when they are encouraged to weatherize

their homes because, throughout time, it will save them money. Or, if investing in renewable energy technology such as electric cars creates much-needed jobs, then doing so likely will receive widespread support.

Most of us aren’t up for all this navelgazing. We just want a way to help our communities, enjoy clean air and water and live healthier. Here’s a short checklist on how to do your part, without getting too complicated: • Use salvaged products — The best way to reduce unnecessary consumption is to reuse as much as you can.

• Recycle — If you can recycle it, then do. Buy products with high percentages of post-consumer recycled content or Please see GREEN, Page 23

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

Keep your home cool with energy-efficient strategies

By ADRIAN SAINZ AP Real Estate Writer Find yourself sweating inside your house during the long, hot days of summer?

Are high utility costs enough to make you perspire on their own?

Strategies such as eliminating air leakage, upgrading attic insulation, and installing a new air conditioning system and ceiling fans help keep your home cool efficiently, and can help save on energy costs in the process.

On average, heating and cooling a home costs about $1,000 a year, nearly half the total energy bill for the house, the Environmental Protection Agency reports.

Through 2010, a federal tax credit is available for energy efficiency upgrades for insulation, windows, central air conditioners and heat pumps.

The credit refunds 30 percent of the purchase price for energy-efficient products, up to a total of $1,500. Homeowners can use the tax credit for cooling systems, and many local power companies offer rebates for installing more efficient products.

Best practices

energy efficiency upgrades for insulation, windows, central air conditioners and heat pumps.

The credit refunds 30 percent of the purchase price for energy-efficient products, up to a total of $1,500. $100. That project will save about $51 in annual utility costs, the NAHB said.

Another tip is to cover windows with shades or blinds, to keep hot sunlight out.

Homeowners can also plant trees to give the home shade. West-facing windows are important to protect because it’s typically hotter in the afternoon. Other shade options include overhangs and awnings.

Finding the right product Decide if you need room air conditioners or a central unit. Homes with many rooms would benefit from a central unit, while studios apartments or efficiencies will be more likely to have units in individual rooms.

Also, check the condition of ceiling fans and pick out rooms that would benefit from the added circulation of a new ceiling fan, such as living rooms and bedrooms.

Cooling systems vary in cost, depending on the system size and price the contractor will charge for installation.

But count on spending at least $2,000 for a new central air conditioner. Adding ducts to the home will bring the cost up even more.

Room air conditioners typically cost between $150 and $600, depending on the size and model.

When considering buying a central air conditioner or heat pump (which both cools and heats a home), homeown-

ers should ask a local contractor to check for leaks in the house that allow cool air to escape. The contractor evaluates whether ducts need to be sealed, insulated or replaced, and whether windows and doors are properly sealed.

Holes hidden in attics, crawl spaces and basements should be sealed.

The key measurement of a central air conditioner is the SEER rating (officially the “Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio). The higher the rating, the higher the energy efficiency.

SEER ratings of 14 to 21 are becoming more common, but the system typically gets more expensive as you move up the SEER scale. Proponents of high-SEER systems stress that savings on utilities outweigh the cost.

When looking for energy efficient products, check if they carry an Energy Star rating by the Environmental Protection Agency.

The EPA began using the rating in 1992 as a way to reduce greenhouse gas emissions through better energy efficiency. It includes more than 60 products, which are listed on the EPA’s Web site, www.energystar.gov.

The more reliable products are among the most well known in the industry — Trane, Rheem and Ruud, according to a July 2009 product reliability survey of more than 32,000 readers of Consumer Reports magazine.

Other brands include General Electric, Carrier, Lennox and American Standard.

Nearly two-third of readers in the Consumer Reports survey who had a problem with their central air conditioning said the unit broke down for a day, and about one in three reported a complete system failure. About half of those reporting problems spent $150 or more to get cool again, Consumer Reports said.

For ceiling fans, blades sizes range from 29 to 54 inches, with the most popular being the 52-inch model, according to the EPA. Smaller rooms need a fan size of 29 to 36 inches, while the larger rooms take 50 to 54 inch fans.

Standard mounts come with a 3 to 5 inch “downrod” — the metal pipe that extends from the ceiling bracket down to the fan. Longer mounts are available for higher ceilings.

Here’s a good tip from the EPA. In summertime, use the fan in a counterclockwise direction, which forces cool air down and gives the feeling of a breeze. In winter, a clockwise direction at slow speed produces an updraft

Maintenance The easiest way to ensure a long life for the cooling system is changing the filter regularly — once a month is a good starting point.

Cooling coils should be cleaned at least once a year.

Cooling systems in homes with furry pets that shed hair will be more susceptible to getting dirty and potentially malfunctioning.

Make sure the contractor you choose to install your air conditioning system or heat pump is licensed and insured.

The product should have a warranty as well, so fill out the correct paperwork to ensure that you are covered.

Many sellers and installers of air conditioners should have maintenance agreements in which the consumer pays a yearly fee for visits from repairmen to make sure the product is working correctly.

By the numbers So far this year, combined U.S. factory shipments of central air conditioners and air-source heat pumps have totaled more than 2.7 million, down 18 percent compared with January to June of last year.

That’s according to the Air-Conditioning, Heating and Refrigeration Institute.

The struggling economy may be a reason for this drop, but companies like Rheem are seeing more buyer activity due to the tax credit, said Carrol Basham, an assistant product manager at Rheem.

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There are many ways to make sure your home stays cool in the best way possible, without buying a new air conditioning systems or adding ceiling fans.

First, check to make sure your attic is properly insulated. An uninsulated attic allows too much cool air to escape and too much warm air to enter. Adding or updating the insulation is one of the easiest ways to make a home more energy efficient.

According to the National Association of Home Builders, upgrading inefficient insulation in the attic of a twostory, 2,000 square foot home in Chicago can cost around $1,000, but the tax credit lowers that cost to $700.

Added to an energy efficient rebate from MidAmerican Energy in Chicago for up to $600, the cost can drop to

Through 2010, a federal tax credit is available for

that pushes warm air down into the room.

20

Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

Paid Advertising Content

We Have The Right Tools To Save You Time & Money Get an Energy Rating Today & Start Saving Tomorrow Measuring Building Airtightness The easiest way to measure building airtightness is with a diagnostic tool called a Blower Door. A blower door test is used to measure and quantify the airtightness of a structure. Air leakage can result in unnecessary waste of energy. The Blower Door consists of a powerful, calibrated fan that is temporarily sealed into an exterior doorway. The fan depressurizes the house to create a slight pressure difference between inside and outside.

Did you know? If you own and occupy a home in Alaska you are eligible to participate in a home rebate program through Alaska Housing Finance Corporation. You can receive rebates for improving your home’s energy efficiency. There are no income restrictions for this program. Check out their website at www.ahfc.state.ak.us for more information about the program.

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For example, ATI, conducting an infrared inspection of an attic or hot roof, can locate “thermal by-passes” and can identify the correct manner in which to eliminate the heat loss. Locating these air infiltration points (with help from a blower door) exposes the sources of incoming cold air and heat escape.

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

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22

Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

What to look for when buying an energy-efficient house Shopping for a home in Fairbanks can be difficult, especially if energy efficiency is a priority. With heating oil prices volatile and resale value at stake, finding the most fuel-efficient home makes sense. An efficient home also has the advantage of helping to alleviate Fairbanks’ air quality problems, which are particularly bad in winter.

The following are some of the things you should look for in an efficient home.

Site Location Because of sunlight, homes situated on south-facing slopes will be warmer in the winter and consume less energy for heat than comparable homes on north-facing slopes or obscured by dense tree cano-

pies. Deciduous trees, such as Alaska birch, are desirable because they lose their leaves in winter and allow sunlight to shine through.

Ideally, homes should be situated lengthwise east to west to take advantage of the sun.

Protection from wind, provided by trees or hills, will help to conserve heat in winter. Low-lying evergreens or shrubs placed on the sides of houses that are exposed to wind also will help conserve heat.

Using the ground as a barrier against cold is a great way to moderate heat loss. Houses that are partially covered by earth or use other natural features of the landscape to insulate against heat loss are desirable.

Design The overall shape of the house will affect its heat loss because of the amount of wall space exposed to the elements. L-shaped, H-shaped, or U-shaped homes tend to lose more heat than rectangular homes.

Houses that share common walls with other structures, such as townhomes, lose less heat than detached homes.

Arctic entryways that are sealed from the outside and the inside living areas by separate doors help to retain heat.

South-facing windows are preferable to windows on any other axis because of their ability to collect sunlight and minimize heat loss.

Plumbing should be run inside heated or indirectly

heated areas and consolidated as much as is practical. Sinks, baths and laundry should be close to the water heater to minimize standby heat loss or on-demand water heaters can be used.

Insulation There’s a saying among energy raters in Alaska — “You can’t over-insulate; you can only under-ventilate.”

When inspecting a house, ask about how much and what kind of insulation is in the floor, walls and attic. Other than weather-tight construction, no other factor will affect a home’s energy use more than insulation. But insulation without adequate ventilation is an invitation to trouble resulting from moisture problems.

All gaps and cracks in the

house should be well sealed or caulked.

Doors and windows need effective weather-stripping.

These are just some of the details of which to be aware.

A more complete list is available by reading the University of Alaska Cooperative Extension Service’s publication “Searching the Market for Energy-Saving Homes — A Checklist for Alaska.”

This publication is available for free online at www.uaf. edu/ces/pubs. Or check out the Cold Climate Housing Research Center’s “Buying an Energy Efficient Home in Fairbanks,” which is available for pickup at CCHRC. Energy Focus articles promote home awareness for the Cooperative Extension Service and the Cold Climate Housing Research Center.

For questions or comments, contact CCHRC at 457-3454

Wind power remains largely untapped in Alaska

By ADAM WASCH Alaska’s energy resources amount to more than the oil and gas that have so much transformed the state during the past 40 years. One largely untapped resource is wind power. Large-scale operations, such as a growing wind farm in Kotzebue and plans for a 1.5 megawatt wind farm on Fire Island near Anchorage underscore the potential of wind energy in Alaska. But what about residential wind power?

Wind power can help make

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your home more energy independent, cut your fuel bills, and reduce air pollution. Best of all, wind power keeps giving and giving, with no emissions and minimal maintenance. So, yes, investing in wind power can make financial sense if your home is ideally located where there’s wind.

But the costs can be high initially. A medium-sized system sufficient to meet most of an average home’s needs will run between $10,000 and $20,000 professionally installed.

Though wind generation is

generally considered environmentally friendly, you should check local codes, covenants and other possible restrictions before investing any money.

Especially if you have a smaller lot, it’s a good idea to take your neighbors into consideration. An acre or more of space is advisable to ensure the equipment is far from other structures.

Although not nearly as tall as cell phone towers, small wind generators tend to attract attention and produce at least some sound.

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23

Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

Continued from Page 18

are remade from waste product. Use reusable fabric grocery bags instead of the disposable plastic ones.

• Buy products that last — Durable, well-made products will be replaced less often and in the long run can save you money.

• Buy local — Using material and food products that are made close to home saves all kinds of energy and will help to support your community.

• Minimize your use of toxic or poisonous substances — Vinegar and soap often can be just as effective as that glowing

green stuff that comes out of yet another plastic bottle.

• Favor renewable resources — Support solar-, wind- and hydropower when reasonable.

Conserve non-renewable fuels by using them as efficiently as possible.

Too much hullabaloo about what is or isn’t the most right thing to do can distract from the underlying point: Being even a lighter shade of green can help to preserve our environment and our way of life.

Adam Wasch promotes energy awareness for the Cooperative Extension Service and the Cold Climate Housing Research Center.

For questions or comments, please contact CCHRC at 457-3454.

BOILER: Fuel-saving strategies for home Continued from Page 18

Boilers that purge system heat at the end of each operating cycle help to minimize wasted heat. Sealed combustion systems might offer further fuel savings. Sealed combustion systems require an exterior air source and a dedicated vent. A boiler fitted with an outdoor reset, which senses outdoor temperatures, can increase efficiency by reducing the boiler system’s water temperature as low as possible while still meeting a home’s heating demand.

Other fuel-saving strategies include installing a set-back or programmable thermostat that

regulates heating according to your daily schedule. Zoning, in combination with two or more thermostats, can regulate what parts of your house are heated more than others depending on use.

Want to improve an existing boiler instead of replacing it?

Your options will vary depending on the system’s age and type of fuel used. For example, installing vent dampeners that close off a boiler’s access to the chimney when it isn’t operating can reduce standby heat loss.

Electric ignitions eliminate the need for continuous pilot lights.

Some older boilers that might have been oversized initially

can be “de-rated” to burn less fuel while providing the same amount of useful heat.

Whether new or old, proper sizing and design of a boiler system is critical and is best performed by a professional.

Contact the Cold Climate Housing Research Center or Cooperative Extension Service for more information or take a look at the Department of Energy’s Web site on the subject at www. energysavers.gov/your_home/ space_heating_cooling.

Adam Wasch promotes energy awareness for the Cooperative Extension Service and the Cold Climate Housing Research Center.

For questions or comments please contact CCHRC at 457-3454.

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GREEN: Buy quality goods

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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009

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