THE CLIMBER NEW ZEALAND’S CLIMBING MAGAZINE
ISSUE 94 SUMMER 2015/16 $9.95
QUARTERLY MAGAZINE OF THE NEW ZEALAND ALPINE CLUB
I TRAIN h c it P t s a L e h T FOR YOU’RE TRAINING FOR MORE THAN A GAME. PREPARE FOR YOUR NEXT A D V E N T U R E W I T H A C T I V I T Y- S P E C I F I C W O R K O U T S A N D T R A I N I N G G E A R B U I LT T O D E L I V E R B I G G E R D A Y S A N D B E T T E R M I L E A G E . THENORTHFACE.CO.NZ
EMILY HARRINGTON
JOE BUDD /
CORY RICHARDS
SNAPPED Get your photo published on this page and we’ll give you a stylie pair of Chalkydigits pants of your choice from their current range. Matt Burnett on the final moves of The Giving Tree (31), Little Babylon, Fiordland. ROMAN ALEXANDER-HOFMANN
CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS
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22
28
34
Reaching Out
Pat Deavoll
Canadian Rockies
Playing Favourites
BY ANDREW FINNIGAN
BY ANNA KEELING
BY DEREK CHENG
BY MIKE ROCKELL
10
THE SHARP END
Asking for help in the mountains
NZAC Life Member 2015
Rock climbing in the Canadian Rockies
Five favourite multipitch rock climbs in New Zealand
12
NZAC NEWS
04 EXPOSURE
16 PEOPLE 46 TECHNIQUE
ON THE COVER Bob Keegan going ham on the three-star, limestone-esque Komatsu (26) at Far Horizon crag in Wanaka. In many ways, this is the quintessential modern Wanaka route: a steep, cruxless pumper with good moves all the way and friendly holds. You can thank tireless local crag developers Bruce Dowrick and Jon Sedon for continuing to seek out gems like this one. MARK WATSON
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THE CLIMBER ISSUE 94, SUMMER 2015/16
THIS PAGE Lans Hansen, Paul Bird and Vincent Zintzen at the 'notch' during a descent of the North Ridge of Mt Tasman in October 2014. The team had climbed the classic North Shoulder route from Pioneer Hut on the west side of the Divide. JOHN YU
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BOOKS AND FILM
50
STUFF YOU NEED
54
WALL DIRECTORY
56
THE LAST PITCH
we ARE climbing
Jennifer Olson ‘Scared Peaches’ 5.12a (25) Air Voyage Wall Lake Louise Photo: ex-Bivouac Staff member – John Price / johnpricephotographic.com
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