The Climber 95

THE CLIMBER NEW ZEALAND’S CLIMBING MAGAZINE

ISSUE 95 AUTUMN 2016 $9.95

QUARTERLY MAGAZINE OF THE NEW ZEALAND ALPINE CLUB

P H O T O

B Y

T I M

K E M P L E .

L A N G T A N G ,

N E PA L

E X C L U S I V E LY

O N

T H E N O R T H FAC E . C O . N Z / S U M M I T

T H E WOR L D’S F I N E S T A L P I N E R E I M AG I N E D E QU I P M E N T

SNAPPED Get your photo published on this page and we’ll give you a stylie pair of Chalkydigits pants of your choice from their current range.

Jean Jack cruising Ulysses (24) at Little Babylon, Fiordland. Ulysses, and its companion route Upskirt Dreams (26) are two of the best lower grade routes at Little Babylon, yet they are rarely climbed. That's possibly because they're tucked around the corner by the waterfall, out of sight, or it might be because the spiders that live at the belay are fat and fearsome.

TROY MATTINGLEY

CONTENTS 22

28

36

42

In the Hood

Bullock Creek Tales

Enhancing the Experience

Under the Radar

BY KESTER BROWN

BY NEIL SILVERWOOD

DEPARTMENTS 04 EXPOSURE

BY PETE HARRIS

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THE SHARP END

The North Buttress of Mt Aspiring

10

NZAC NEWS

BY DEREK CHENG

Interview with semipro China-based Kiwi climber David Hood

West Coast limestone sport climbing

Bigger, bolder, scarier

14 PEOPLE 20 PEOPLE ON THE COVER Paul Bird on Mt Tasman's summit ridge after ascending the North Shoulder route from Pioneer Hut. The climb was made in mid-October and the Wellington-based climbing party included Paul Bird, Vincent Zintzin, John Yu and Lans Hansen. Conditions were generally good, with large stretches of hard ice partially covered in loose powder near the summit. After leaving the hut at 1:30am, the team summited at 9:45am and descended by the same route, with a return trip time of 13 hours.

LANS HANSEN

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THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

THIS PAGE Kangtega peak, above the village of Pheriche, Khumbu region, Nepal.

OIL PAINTING BY COLIN BRODIE

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BOOKS AND FILM

51

STUFF YOU NEED

56

THE LAST PITCH

we ARE climbing

Jennifer Olson ‘Scared Peaches’ 5.12a (25) Air Voyage Wall Lake Louise Photo: ex-Bivouac Staff member – John Price / johnpricephotographic.com

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EXPOSURE Over a stunning week of fine weather Rich Thomson and Rich Turner ventured once more to the Central Darrans, adding 30 pitches worth of new routes on superb quality rock.

In Te Puoho area they climbed the North West Pillar of Taiaroa (9p, 450m, crux 22 but mostly teens), and Durricht, which climbs the oft-eyed right arête of the Mighty Dur, (7p, 350m, 22). Pictured here is Rich Turner on pitch two of Durricht.

Moving operations to the Eyrie, the pair climbed 21+ (6p, 300m, 21+), the seventh line so far on the pinnacled wall running between Te Wera and Karetai.

Cutting back around Karetai of a misty morning, they climbed a line on the south-east face. Hugs not Drugs (6p, 290m, 22) starts just left of the Jones-Jones line and heads more or less ‘straight up bro’ with a leftward lean.

Just for giggles, and to get the pitch total up to a round number, two routes were added on the Eyrie Crag: Pooh Corner (20) and Emergency Exit (18). This great quality micro-crag now sports nine routes within 20 metres of your pit, all with a big-wall ‘top pitch’ feel.

RICHARD THOMSON

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THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

EXPOSURE

THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

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EXPOSURE

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THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

EXPOSURE In January and February this year, Kiwi Mayan Smith-Gobat, with Germans Ines Papert and Thomas Senf, made the fifth known ascent of Riders on the Storm (7c+, A2, 1300m) on the east face of Torres Central in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile.

Mayan freed two exisiting aid pitches high on the route, and the team established a five-pitch variation to avoid the remaining aid section lower on the climb.

Unfortunately poor weather meant they were unable to free two pitches of the variation plus two existing free pitches.

Pictured is Mayan making the first free ascent of pitch 31 (7c+/28).

THOMAS SENF

THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

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THE SHARP END

OLD DOGS, NEW TRICKS I HAVE decided to continue with my topic of ethical rants. I’ve been thinking about all the routes that annoy me due to them being bolted badly—either by being run-out or just having bad bolt placements.

To me, doing a bold sport climb is like going to McDonalds for a salad, or going to a whorehouse for a hug—it just doesn’t make sense. I mean, if you’re already going to put three bolts in a route, why not just put five? It’s not like you’re significantly reducing your impact by placing less bolts; bolted rock climbs will always be an eye-sore either way. Putting up bold sport routes just seems a bit try-hard.

If you want to establish a bold climb, just don’t put any bolts in at all, and if you’re going to put bolts in, then just get with the times and do it properly. There is nothing wrong with a climb that isn’t scary.

I think it is important to preserve the ethics of an area, so I support the preservation of the remaining bold crag testpieces. However, the days of hand drills are over. The only excuse for a bold sport climb these days is penny pinching. Developers must accept the modern day expectations of sport climbers, otherwise their routes will end up neglected.

I think modern-day New Zealand climbing is trending the wrong way. People see a bold trad climb, point out the lurking danger and request a retro-bolt. I couldn’t disagree more with that ethos. To me, bold trad testpieces are something to be upheld. That’s where adventure climbing should be retained. But the thing that confuses me is that far less people kick up a fuss about last centuries’ ‘sport’ climbs, which hard-asses hand-drilled on lead, in the rain, with nothing but a hemp rope tethered to their waist. To me those routes are the issue. I wonder, if the old-schoolers had owned power drills, would we have so many run-out bolted climbs.

–Jarrod Alexander

ENCOURAGEMENT ANALYSIS MUCH TO my surprise, I found myself agreeing with some of the points raised in John Palmer’s article ‘Regression Analysis’ (see The Climber issue 93). I believe that it is healthy for the sport to have a large group aspiring to push the limits of what’s possible, both for themselves and for other climbers. Climbing hard is awesome. But you’re not going to inspire anybody by patronising or sandbagging them.

Eric Horst, a guru on training for climbing, is unlikely to agree with John’s statement that ‘climbing grade 25 requires only a reasonable level of general fitness, some application to the task, and a belayer’. In Eric’s view, climbing a grade 25 is possible for anyone with average physical ability, but for most it requires sacrifice, discipline, strength training, mental train-

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THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

WRITE & WIN Send us a letter and you’ll be in the draw to win a

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ing and climbing strategy. I’m the weakest person I know who’s climbed grade 7a+ (24/25), and it’s taken me three years of solid effort off a base of 12 years of experience climbing up to grade 19. That effort included taking a year off, doing almost nothing but climbing, having supportive belayers, and lots of encouragement and enthusiasm from people climbing much harder than me.

So you want to help improve general climbing standards in New Zealand? As a developer, bolt routes for someone pushing the grade.

Get the consensus of a few people who climb at that level before grading something that you find very easy. One strong climber confessed to me that he prefers climbing 22s to 19s because he feels more confident that he’ll get to the top (and live to tell the tale). Don’t sandbag: Europeans don’t routinely warm up on 29s, as John claims. We recently climbed in Kalymnos where people climbing 31/32 were warming up on grade 20–25 routes. Most importantly, be friendly, helpful and encouraging towards the lesser mortals who don’t climb as well as you do.

–Phillipa Oliver

HIGH-PERFORMANCE STRATEGY ‘JOHN PALMER is an arrogant, elitist prick!’ I can hear the tall poppy cutters crying into the breeze as they attempt to tear John down a peg or two. The problem for them though, is that John is right.

I thought a lot about John’s recent article, ‘Regression Analysis’, as I sat watching the people around me at Margalef, Spain. A six-year-old girl was climbing a 6b+ (21), a ten-year-old boy was climbing an 8c+ (34), and a guy in his 60s was on an 8c. People were warming up on 8as (29) and a few hot shots were working a 9b (37).

So why is it that New Zealand standards are lagging so far behind the rest of the climbing world? Why, on average, are we quite simply average at climbing? John raised a good point, but I think the really interesting question is: what can we do about it?

From what I have seen and heard, pro-

grammes like the Flying Geckos and the Queenstown Climbing Club’s youth programme are excellent at speeding up the development of young climbers.

In alpine climbing, where the gap in recent years between Kiwis and the rest of the world has been huge, new initiatives like the New Zealand Alpine Team are filling a void where previously no structured mentoring or training existed.

Young climbers need coaches, mentors and access to the top people in the various climbing disciplines. Boulderers need to be taken out and taught by the strongest pebble crushers, sport climbers taught by like-minded bolt clippers, and alpine climbers need to be shown the joys of taking large packs for long walks.

Most of the programmes previously mentioned are new for New Zealand. Mentoring, coaching and access to the top climbers is actually happening. However, we lack a coordinated national strategy, along with the extra funding and resources that a well-thought-out plan could provide. While the programmes we have in place here are showing some reasonable success, it is going to take a long time for them to produce big results.

All of us who are involved in trying to lift the standard of New Zealand climbing could use some coordinated support and funding from our national body. Why, as a club, do we throw most of our resources at beginners, leaving little or no support for the mid- to high-end climbers?

To use a rugby analogy: we are focusing all our efforts on primary school development and are definitely not providing a pathway for highschool players through to Colts, NPC or Super 15. We definitely do nothing that will produce any All Blacks. Why not, I ask? Why should climbing be one of the few sports in New Zealand with no national high performance programme? It’s time for NZAC to pick up the lead that has been taken by individual groups such as the Flying Geckos, QCC and the New Zealand Alpine Team, and throw its weight and resources behind a coordinated national high performance plan that covers all aspects of climbing from bouldering to alpinism.

The good news is that NZAC doesn’t have to start from scratch, the individual programmes are there and are working. What the club needs to do is figure out how it can help each of the various existing entities achieve their goals of advancing the standard of climbing in New Zealand across all disciplines. That will require time, money and open access to all the resources available. It also means that people need to accept that, collectively, we can and should do better. Climbing is one of the few sports in New Zealand that lacks a high-performance plan.

Like I said to John after reading his article— what are you going to do about it?

–Daniel Joll

THE SHARP END

RESPECT THE BOLTERS IN RESPONSE to the 'should projects be open or closed?' mini-saga, it definitely seems much more complicated than a simple yes-or-no question to me. There are good arguments on both sides, and I can see the merits of Jarrod's idea of a time limit on closed projects (see The Climber issue 94, p10). The problem is that people have different ideas about what an acceptable amount of time is. There will also be some people who won't want a limit at all.

Balance is usually the answer to most of our problems. Too much or too little of anything is bad, even climbing, dare I say it! Over or under training, burnout and the newly recognised NDD (nature deficit disorder) can all play a part in limiting our potential happiness.

If balance is the answer, then both sides of the argument can be correct at different times and for different people. The gift of autonomy for developers seems like the only fair and reasonable way forward. Each bolter should be allowed to choose whether their unclimbed route is open or closed. If that choice means you can't try the climb a bolter has laboured over, then you should respect their wishes.

I agree that no one owns the rock, but we should own our actions. As a small climbing community we need to nurture and inspire route development and respect those who help make outdoor climbing possible. When Chris

Sharma invited Adam Ondra to work on La Dura Dura with him it was a symbiotic process that helped progress the world standard of difficult climbing, resulting in the second ever route graded 9b+ (38). That, however, is not the same as someone doing your one-day-old, grade 21 project simply because closed projects had been discouraged.

For me, and many others, route development is about much more than just hammering in some stainless, as Jarrod says. It requires vision, and provides a fulfilling journey of discovery and learning. The enjoyment from completing a first ascent can be similar to the feeling you get when you climb on real rock for the first time.

While closed projects won't help a strong overseas climber with a limited schedule establish a new grade here, those climbers are more than welcome to bolt or clean up a line of their own!

Closed projects fall quite low on the list of reasons why New Zealand does not have any grade 35 routes.

Here are some of the things that are really holding us back: 1. Island time. Most of us are 'lazy as' or 'heaps beached', preferring a siesta instead of a link-up.

2. Kiwis' common perception that 8a (29) is super hard.

3. It’s our obesity rates that are rising,

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

rather than our grades (reduced PE lessons in schools is not helping).

Most developers in New Zealand are relatively weak. My grade-improvement versus time-spent-climbing ratio is only 10:16. I couldn't even visualise how to bolt a 9a, sorry Alex!

Negative and false headlines in the news about 'climbing incidents', which have nothing to do with rock climbing scare people off, and discourage overprotective parents from taking their kids climbing.

Climbing is sometimes perceived as being an elitist sport, and out of reach for 'normal' people. I often hear people say, ‘I'm not strong enough to climb’. To which I reply: ‘You climb, then you get strong, not the other way around.’

Motivation to improve. I'm happier hearing about hundreds of ascents of classic 16s and 17s than two or three repeats of a 26 or 27.

Inequality issues make it harder for aspiring young dirtbags to afford to live and climb.

Tougher welfare rules limits the 'government sponsored' climber option.

–Dan Head

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THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

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THE CLIMBER

NZAC GM SAM NEWTON STEPS DOWN

NEW ZEALAND’S CLIMBING MAGAZINE

ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016 Editor Kester Brown kester@alpineclub.org.nz Design and Layout Kester Brown Gear Editor Graham Johnson NZAC News Sam Newton sam@alpineclub.org.nz Printing Spectrum Print, Christchurch Musical Inspiration John Digweed – Live in Montreal Contributors Jarrod Alexander, Erik Bradshaw, Colin Brodie, Tony Burnell, Phil Castle, Derek Cheng, Ross Cullen, Rodney Garrard, Lans Hansen, Pete Harris, Steve Harris, Dan Head, Thorsten Henn, Gavin Lang, Troy Mattingley, Gabriel Mazur, Johnny McFarlane, Jane Morris, Shane Orchard, Josh Raff, Thomas Senf, Neil Silverwood, Stephen Skelton, Richard Thomson, William Wing Ki Chan.

Advertising enquiries Kester Brown tel: (64) 027 4266 173 e-mail: adverts@alpineclub.org.nz web: climber.co.nz/advertise

–Penny Brothers, NZAC President.

BOLTING/ACCESS FUND

Subscription information Published quarterly. $9.95 per issue, $28.00 per year (incl. GST & NZ surface mail; overseas p&p at cost): e-mail: subscriptions@alpineclub.org.nz web: climber.co.nz/subscribe Contributions are welcome THE CLIMBER is published by the New Zealand Alpine Club. We welcome contributions in the form of photography, features, short articles, reviews, comment and letters. Please get in touch if you’d like to submit some material—we are always keen to hear from potential contributors.

For more info see climber.co.nz/contribute.

Contact us for payment rates.

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Unit 6, 6 Raycroft Street, Opawa, Christchurch. tel: (64) 03 377 7595 | fax: (64) 03 377 7594 climber.co.nz

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NZAC GENERAL MANAGER Sam Newton has announced that he will step down from this role to take up a new position with the New Zealand Recreation Association (NZRA). In his new role as NZRA Advocacy Manager, Sam will be working closely with the outdoors sector and the government to raise awareness of the value of the outdoors and to ensure the sector’s views on regulatory matters and other important issues are heard.

Sam has performed admirably in his role as NZAC General Manager, shouldering the responsibility of continuing to build the professionalism of the club and expanding the scope of its operations. Developing and maintaining relationships with key organisations such as the Department of Conservation and SportNZ have been a feature of Sam's tenure as general manager, as has the development of our annual planning process. Losing Sam is sad as we have benefited from his talents for four years. However, we are also proud that the professionalism of our organisation means that our general manager position is sought after in the wider recreation sector. NZRA Chief Executive Andrew Leslie said Sam’s broad knowledge of the outdoors and background in advocacy would enable NZRA to provide a strong voice for the outdoors sector.

We congratulate Sam on his appointment as NZRA Advocacy Manager, and look forward to working with him in his new role.

Z E A L A N D

ALPINE CLUB

Printed with the environment in mind on Forest Stewardship Council® certified paper.

PAUL ROGERS recently received a grant from the NZAC Bolting/Access Fund to re-bolt some derelict ironmongery on the Sebastopol Bluffs at Aoraki Mount Cook. Thanks for putting in the hard yards Paul.

Any member of NZAC can apply to the Bolting/Access Fund, so if you have a crag development project send your one-page proposal to: boltingfund@alpineclub.org.nz. Applications that include moderately graded climbs, improve the safety of a crag or mitigate any environmental impacts are viewed particularly favourably.

PIONEER HUT MAINTENANCE PIONEER HUT is back open, and it's now warmer and drier. Max Dörfliger and his trusty sidekick Dick have been at it again. Utilising a grant from the Outdoor Recreation Consortium, Max and Dick completely stripped out and replaced the insulation and internal walls of Pioneer Hut. The GreenStuf insulation goes in during the Max has reported that stripping out the old walls recent Pioneer Hut maintenance project. and insulation revealed significant levels of moisture.

The new insulation has two layers (GreenStuf and a polystyrene layer) with a ventilation gap in-between, which should help get rid of the moisture and prevent it building up. Max has also put in a solar powered ventilation fan that will mechanically ventilate the hut on warm sunny days. Some silicon was applied to the leaks in the roof, but it is abundantly obvious that a new roof is needed, sooner rather than later. Thanks Max and Dick.

NZAC Our vision: NZAC champions the pursuit of climbing, enabling skilled and active adventurers. We provide inspiration, information and seek to enable a vibrant climbing community.

Our core purpose is to foster and support climbing.

DISCLAIMER Material published in The Climber is obtained from a variety of sources. While all care is taken, neither The Climber nor the New Zealand Alpine Club nor any person acting on their behalf makes any warranty with respect to the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of the information published nor assumes any liability with respect to the use of, or for damages arising from the use of, any information disclosed within this magazine. © NEW ZEALAND ALPINE CLUB | ISSN 1174-216X

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THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

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Keep up to date with NZAC events and courses at alpineclub.org.nz.

OUTDOOR AND ADVENTURE WRITING WORKSHOP, 4–6 JUNE, UNWIN LODGE, AORAKI MT COOK Keen to improving your writing skills, define where you want to head with your writing, or work towards getting your writing published? Join author and journalist Paul Hersey for three days of outdoor and adventure writing tuition in a spectacular and inspirational alpine environment.

SECTION INSTRUCTION Many of the local NZAC sections run winter courses and trips, including snowcraft and avalanche awareness courses. See what is happening in your section at alpineclub.org.nz/regions—more and more will be added in the coming months.

NATIONAL INSTRUCTION PROGRAMME Dates have been set for the professionally-led intermediate to advanced courses. Don’t miss out, these fill up fast: Winter Instruction • Leading on Technical Ice courses, Wye Creek: 15–17 July and 22–24 July.

• Introduction to Backcountry Skiing Course, from Mt Olympus, 4–8 September.

• Glacier Skiing Course, Aoraki Mount Cook National Park, 13–17 September.

Summer Instruction • High Alpine Skills Courses or Peak Performance Courses will be running every week from November to January (except at Christmas).

See dates and info at alpineclub.org.nz/alpine-climbing/courses/.

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ASHTANGA YOGA WORKSHOP, 22–25 APRIL, UNWIN LODGE, AORAKI MOUNT COOK A holistic workshop from experienced yoga instructor and climber Andrew Trotter, suitable for all.

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THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

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NZAC NEWS LEFT Mikayla Green climbing at Pohara.

MIDDLE Rebecca Hounsall climbing at Pohara.

RIGHT The 2016 Youth Climbing Camp team at Pohara.

TONY BURNELL (ALL)

NZAC NATIONAL YOUTH CLIMBING CAMP 2016

BY TONY BURNELL ANECDOTAL EVIDENCE suggests that youth participating in sport is on the decline worldwide. Assuming that to be correct, minority sports such as rock climbing and mountaineering are likely to suffer more than most.

However, in New Zealand, it would appear to me that youth participation in sports like climbing is on the increase.

Climbing is perceived as a bit of a glamour sport, even though these days most of the Lycra has disappeared. Indoor climbing has become increasingly popular over the last eight to ten years, especially with young kids. Indoor climbing ticks all the boxes: improvement is rapid initially; it gives an illusion of risk; there is the opportunity to impress; and it's a winner with both boys and girls. But once we've captured the kids’ attention, how do we get them outdoors to take part in an activity that is perceived as high-risk in a society that is becoming more and more risk averse?

In May 2012, whilst chaperoning the Flying Geckos climbing club at an indoor climbing competition in Wanaka I met John Hammond, another expat climber with whom I had lots in common, including friends from the dark ages. John and I got to talking about our experiences, and somehow this turned into a conversation about the lack of youth climbing in the outdoors. The conversation took another turn and we were asking ourselves why there was no organised youth climbing camp in New Zealand.

Between us we had about 90 years of climbing experience (gulp!). We decided we could give something back to the sport on a different level.

Over the past few years we have held youth climbing camps at Wanaka, Christchurch and Wharepapa South. The camps have been mostly self-funded, but for the past two years we have had some great financial support from the Canterbury Westland Section of NZAC, who have donated the proceeds of their Reel Rock film tour to the youth camp and the development of youth climbing. Clayton Garbes has been a strong advocate on our behalf and that man deserves a DB, or two.

The purpose of the camp is to bring together a group of New Zealand’s young climbers and provide them with an opportunity to meet and climb with their contemporaries in an outdoor setting away from the indoor competition scene. They don't have to be the best climbers, but they do have to be passionate. What has been surprising is the ratio of female to male climbers. This year the boys were outnumbered by about two to one.

The camp has been a successful venture for participants, instructors and volunteers alike. This year the fourth National Youth Climbing Camp was held at Paynes Ford, the Mecca of New Zealand limestone sport climbing. As always, it was held during the last full week of the school summer holidays.

Thanks to some investigative work by John Entwistle we managed to hire the community hall at Motupipi for the week. This proved to be an

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THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

'I watched Sanne try the roof at The Roxx on Friday.

I talked to her afterwards about being more confident. She replied: ‘It's ‘cos since the camp I'm no longer scared.'

–Marty Anderson

excellent base. We even had the use of the school pool. Being located between Paynes Ford and Pohara meant we had quick access to numerous crags. Given the age range (9 to 16) and skill levels of the young climbers, there was something for everyone.

The challenges the kids met and dealt with were both physical and mental. I have to say, by day three they definitely had a passion to succeed. For some it was their first taste of outdoor climbing. By the end of the week almost everyone had been leading, and from time to time, falling. There were multiple ascents of 1080 & the Letter G, Electricorp Production, Send a Gorilla and Superconductor. For me personally it was great to see the Geckos team, which I have been climbing with recently, push themselves and start to conquer some of their own demons.

The location, the climbing and camp life made for a great week, which everyone enjoyed. It was after all, their week. The kids made their own choices about what climbs they did and how much climbing they did. What wasn't left to choice was the catering and cleaning back at the hall, which is a huge part of the week. Kirsten Thomforde did an amazing job conducting the troops like an orchestra so that food was prepared, cooked, cleared away and cleaned up for about 30 people two to three times a day, every day.

At this age, spending time in the outdoors can have significant benefits for students and their personal development. These include the obvious benefits such as physical ones, and the not so obvious ones such as intellectual, moral and social benefits. Being outdoors is not all about climbing, and it's hoped that the more time these kids spend in the outdoors the greater their awareness of the environment and associated issues.

It was a fantastic week with an enthusiastic team of young climbers who will hopefully have learnt skills that will serve them well throughout their climbing careers. It must be said that without the help of the volunteers the camp could not have happened. Thanks to John Entwistle, Paul Rogers, Nic Harvey, John Hammond, Erica Gatland, Ryan Murphy and Rachel Musgrave for mentoring the youngsters and donating their time to make sure the camp worked. I’d like to extend a big thanks also to Kirsten Thomforde, Marty Anderson, Jacqueline Yan, Robin Montgommery and Grant Hounsall for all their help chaperoning, taxiing and catering for the team. C

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PEOPLE

Josh onsighting Tantalus (28) at Little Babylon.

TROY MATTINGLEY

FLASH AS

JOSH CORNAH

Despite his relatively short time on this planet, it would be a disservice to 15-year-old Josh Cornah, from Christchurch, to say he's a climber on the up. Josh is already all up in a lot of hard climbing. Last summer he was up Colossus (33) at Little Babylon, all the way up at the chains in fact, clipping them after only six goes (plus three goes on Cyrus the Great, which shares the same start). Later that same day he got up Tantalus (28) onsight, then a couple of days later was up Blood Meridian (32), rounding off a pretty productive few days of school holiday.

Hi Josh, congrats on sending Colossus. The guidebook description says it has 'hard compression moves that may make your biceps explode'. How are your biceps? Still in one piece?

My biceps have healed up, my skin suffered the most I think. The climb is amazing—it had been a goal of mine for a while. It goes up such an amazing line, which was super inspiring, and it has rad climbing the whole way. It mostly suited me quite well, and I managed to find some sneaky beta for the bits that didn't. There's nowhere to rest on the route, but once the beta was all there (partly thanks to Derek Thatcher's awesome beta map) it flowed nicely.

Backing that up with a quick redpoint of Blood Meridian is pretty impressive. From steep burly compression to a full ming-down face climb.

Do you have any weaknesses?

Well funnily enough crimps are one of my biggest weaknesses. And bouldering or bouldery routes. I couldn't touch the heinous boulder problem at the top of Cyrus the Virus.

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Have you had any help with training techniques or coaching?

I have been coached by Joe Ward for the last two years, which has been awesome. He has helped me out with training programmes and technique sessions a lot.

If SportNZ suddenly came up with a million bucks for high-level youth climbing development, what would be the best way for that money to be spent to benefit you?

Maybe a gear and trip fund.

I hear you went up and climbed Labyrinth while in the Darrans last summer. How was that? Any interest in doing more multi-pitch or alpine routes?

Labyrinth was awesome; it's an absolutely classic route. I was hoping to do a few more alpine rock routes over the summer but I only managed a few as finding people at Homer who are psyched to go climbing with a kid can be hard.

I'm super keen do to more alpine rock. I love

getting into the mountains, and it's an awesome break from sport climbing, even if it's just day trips to go scrambling at Arthur's Pass. My main problem is finding other climbers to go with, and without a car it can be quite hard.

Who do you mainly climb with?

I climb with a lot of different people. I used to climb with Nathan Bothamley a lot but he has been struggling with an injury for a while.

I trained with Kent Chevalier last winter but he managed to injure himself as well. At the moment I've been training on my own mainly and climbing with anyone who's keen.

Where's your favourite place to climb?

My favourite place to climb has to be in the Darrans. More specifically Little Babylon I guess, but the whole area is rad.

Would you rather flash Angel of Pain or win a Youth World lead comp?

Definitely flash Angel of Pain. C

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NZAC NEWS

NZAC MID-TASMAN HUT PROJECT UPDATE

BY JOHNNY MCFARLANE

Flyable Hut Design and Construction A year ago we started the Beetham Hut Project with brimming enthusiasm. Over the course of the past year we’ve come to realise just how much technology has advanced, and we are now looking forward to new, innovative solutions.

To date, there has been limited success building a single-unit four-bunk flyable hut. A flyable hut needs to be less than 1200 kilograms.

In our initial project planning stage we wanted to replicate, not innovate, in order to reduce the unknowns. We had seen timber frames used for Ball Hut, an example of a flyable hut, so we thought: why not replicate a proven and flyable model? The answer is because the Beetham Hut site is such an extreme environment, and much higher than Ball Hut. Wind speeds at the site are the same as terminal velocity. Temperatures can range 40–60 degrees in a day. Low humidity stresses timber frames, but ingress of spindrift creates moisture problems, which can lead to timber rot.

So if you can’t replicate, what should you do? Our approach is to emulate, not replicate exactly. The AMIE Demonstration Project (AMIE is ‘additive manufacturing integrated energy’) has produced a 3D printed building designed for off-grid living. New generation materials (structural insulated panels) are now being used for alpine buildings—like the dramatic Remarkables Ski Area base building—because of their insulation properties, strength and durability. Is it realistic to just continue down a known and traditional building path when we know there are alternative solutions?

Reduce Weight Our challenge is to balance the hut’s overall weight versus its performance.

A traditional (timber and corrugated iron) hut building method needs extra timber in the frame to provide strength against extreme wind speeds—this increases the weight.

The maximum lift loads for a helicopter are low because of the altitude and flight distance. So to decrease the hut’s weight, we have had to innovate and experiment, the Kiwi way: cheap and practical.

We have redistributed the weight by: • Separating the prefabricated floor and upper hut (walls and roof) into two loads instead of a single load.

• Emulating high wind-speed tent design principles—using seismic reinforcing bars as bracing instead of normal wire guy ropes to simply hold

The proposed hut design.

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down the structure (which stretch and flex and whip around in high winds) to reduce the size (and weight) of the structural steel frame.

Replicating a helicopter skid locker, and including storage for ski gear and climbing gear on the outside to create space inside the hut.

Improve Breathability and Watertightness of the Outer Layer Corrugated iron cladding breathes well in calm, sunny conditions, but has low long-term performance in the face of a biting cold nor’wester driving spindrift into every crevice. Now available in a visible orange colour, the structural insulated panels selected for this design provide an excellent opportunity to manage condensation through thermal gradients from the inside of the hut to the outside of the hut, and reduce spindrift getting into the inside of the structure, freezing, melting and exacerbating moisture issues.

Normally, moisture management is best achieved through mechanical extraction of the warm, moist air and replacing it with cool, dry air.

Mechanical extraction needs power, and while in the past this has been a problem, technology advances in power demands (like LED lights instead of incandescent), improvements in solar efficiency, and now an affordable option of storing power through the new-generation TESLA home batteries, will make this a reality in the near future.

But it takes time to experiment, and even more time to experiment without spending valuable confirmed funding. Fortunately we have some time. It’s dusk, the light is fading, but we have time. A hut will be built before winter this year and moved to the Mount Cook Village area. And when the funds are raised, the hut will be installed this coming summer.

Thanks for the continuing support and patience.

MID-TASMAN HUT PROJECT STATUS AND DETAILS Fundraising As of March 2016, the project team has been successful in raising 40 per cent of the overall budget. This has been achieved primarily through a single funding grant from the Outdoor Recreation Consortium (ORC), which was a result of a combined application from Federated Mountain Clubs, New Zealand Deerstalkers Association and Trail Fund New Zealand. We have maintained regular reporting to the ORC on the project’s progress, and are grateful to the ORC for their patience while we resolve the design.

There have been some setbacks. For example, over $60,000 worth of our applications were unsuccessful. But we continue to look forward—to the next point along the fundraising route.

Kingspan Panels have offered to provide the entire hut cladding material at a reduced rate. They bring excellent recent experience, having worked on the new Remarkables Ski Area base building last year.

Holmes Fire have offered fire engineering services, both to support the project and make the great outdoors more accessible for all New Zealanders. We thank them, and call for your continued support and contributions through donations to the project.

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Site Selection: The Darwin-Bonney vs Beetham valley The Darwin-Bonney area is a fantastic climbing base for Malte Brun, Mt Haeckel and Mt Hamilton, and it is a popular area for ski-touring and guiding, with ski-plane and helicopter access. If you combine those benefits you have a wee ‘Bonney’ of an idea. We were keen to progress the idea, particularly to identify whether the Darwin-Bonney confluence was a potential site for this project, or a future relocation option.

Sadly, the physical site walkover completed in February 2015, and initial reports from DOC (who provided pro-bono avalanche risk assessment) and GNS (who analysed localised rockfall risk and global rock stability) did not identify any genuine potential in this area.

It is important to remember that duration of exposure is a critical factor in the assessment of avalanche and rockfall risk for people or for assets. A climber can move quickly through high-risk areas. We can duck around an unstable gendarme, or dance around a gentle snow slope. A hut however, cannot move with the same agility as a climber.

With the physical fortitude of a sleeping teenager, they rest, unmoved, for a long, long time. That is important. While climbing through an area, or bivvying may be deemed acceptable to the individual, the acceptable risk-exposure for a hut with a 25-year design life is much, much higher.

AN ODE TO OUR HUTS Welcome to Aoraki Mount Cook, where all is not fine, With huts disappearing in a rapid decline; Just what sort of state, are the huts in?

At one end of the park is where I’ll begin.

Starting with Mueller, New Zealand’s highest backpacker spot, Yet for a bunch of the summer, enough water there is not; Most of it runs off the roof to the ground Without being captured for the masses around; Sort out the spouting, is all it would take, To fill up the tanks and through the summer we’d make.

A quick note on Barron Saddle whilst we’re over that way, A year and a half to fix a window … is that really okay?

On up the Hooker, this place has taken a beating, And it’s not just the glacier that’s hard-out retreating; Yes access is getting more funky and harder, Minus two huts in one year—goodbye Hooker and Gardiner; The latter taken out by a large chunk of rock, But Hooker Hut sitting patiently, it too got the chop; Off down to Twizel, where it sits in a shed, Awaiting a miracle relocation, to one day go ahead, And be incorporated back into the park as its host, To once again be a refuge for us and its ghost.

A note on Empress, and perhaps a sign of the times, When health and safety regulations overstep common sense lines; Things really have gotten pretty dire, When duvets are deemed ‘too risky’ due to fire; Never mind all the litres of white spirits in the place, Or the wooden structure that creates a welcoming space.

Over to Plateau, in certain facilities we are trusting, But look out, if you are indeed busting; For two summer seasons—it’s past being funny— Is the ongoing project, to upgrade the dunny.

In April this year it was all set to go, With just one more day left to finish the show; Why pull the pin? You may well be wondering, No more money—that’s it! No more project funding.

So along comes winter and the metres of snow, Covers up all the gear and parts ready to go; Roll on to summer and temporary measures get made, With the overall cost, twice as much has been paid.

It’s the standard answer—there are no funds.

But hang on, here’s a million bucks for an ‘avalanche bund’.

What on earth you might ask, does such a thing do?

Oh protect the hotel, when an avalanche blows through.

Really? Why now? As the snowpack gets thinner, And winters in general get slimmer and slimmer; Ah but there’s still a miniscule chance of that size five slide, And a pig just flew past the window outside.

Where were we … the Tasman, and on up the ditch, If you’re going to Kelman, there is one small hitch; You may think you’ll escape from the weather outside, But in there from the rain you can’t easily hide; The place leaks from the walls, ceiling and floors, Despite ongoing maintenance, in it still pours.

Its neighbour Tasman Saddle has its own issues going on, From no maintenance for years, its days are not long, Until it also falls into the hut-black-hole trap, And is deemed derelict and scratched off the map.

There will soon be however, one new hut in the park, But it’s not a DOC structure that’s making its mark; The Beetham will see a new biv sometime soon, (Maybe a village of huts from this will balloon?)

NZAC is stumping up the cost of the hut, A small increment forward amongst DOC’s structural rut; The future? Who knows if the outlook is rosy, Or if huts will return to being functional and cosy; In the meantime be prepared for some marginal living, In public assets that seem to be no longer giving, Shelter and protection for the park’s mountain users, And the people who recreate there—we are the losers; So enjoy the remaining huts that hang on, For just like the glaciers, they soon may be gone.

–Jane Morris Previous DOC employee, park recreator and hut appreciator.

Tasman Saddle Hut. GAVIN LANG

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NZAC NEWS

SUSTAINABLE ACCESS AND CLIMATE CHANGE

A serac fall in action near Whymper Saddle. Although these are a daily occurrence in many mountainous areas they may become frequent in the vicinity of popular mountaineering routes as glaciers recede under climate change.

SHANE ORCHARD

CLIMATE CHANGE IN MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENTS (part 3)

BY NZAC SUSTAINABILITY ADVOCATE SHANE ORCHARD IN THE third and final part of our series we turn to the topic of recreational access under climate change. From those who prefer that hardcore remote areas are preserved, to those who seek easy entry options, questions of access are important to everything we do in the mountains.

In a very real way, the ‘sustainability’ of various options relates directly to our own perceptions of what is appropriate or desired, and to who wins or loses opportunities as a result of decisions made. Of course, climate change is set to change this picture quite substantially, especially in some of our glaciated areas.

Some of the issues to consider are the often increasing levels of hazard on popular routes exposed to icefalls, moraine walls and the like, and what to do about these. On the one hand, we can opt to ‘deal with it’ and regard the choice to venture into those locations as part of the adventure of going there. On the other hand there are those who seek technocratic solutions, such as the permitting of new landing zones for helicopters in areas that were previously protected from impingement by the associated impacts.

Typically this is advocated for on the basis that managers should do something to sustain access within particular safety margins. Therein lies the rub.

In some respects, it would be educational for many to see first-hand how ablation zones and glacier dynamics are changing in these regions rather than proliferating opportunities to avoid them. Obviously though, there are good reasons why assisting safe access to popular areas is essential for enabling recreation experiences. The solution then, in times of change, is to ensure that an appropriate selection of destinations can be safely accessed to cater for different recreational user groups. The choice of which routes and facilities to persist with, which to abandon,

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and how new facilities might add to the picture amounts to the good old ‘devil in the detail’ problem.

The provision of hut facilities in the mid-Tasman area provides a good example of some of the issues to resolve. The removal of De La Beche hut in 2010 highlighted questions around the design and location of high alpine huts, and huts in the Hooker valley provide similar examples. Heliportable huts are now seen as a smart measure for sustainability on a number of fronts, which includes the potential for relocation within the lifespan of the building. NZAC is actively working on access issues on several fronts, including the mid-Tasman replacement hut project. In this case access questions are intertwined with hut location decisions due to growing moraine wall issues in the valley. In turn this leads to the question of whether new helicopter access arrangements are appropriate and if so how they relate to access and location opportunities.

In the near future there will be similar questions to be resolved on access and facilities in the Hooker valley, which presents a different scenario as it is one of the few easily accessible high alpine areas in which recreational experiences are relatively protected from both helicopter landing and fly-over impacts.

In working out the way forward, membership-based organisations such as NZAC are a potential vehicle for leadership through education and awareness-raising activities. Solutions for climate change may not be easy but through facilitating discussions among members, and getting issues out in the open in advance of official decision making, the club can play a key role in identifying the best options to recommend to the wider community. C

REGISTRATION NOW OPEN Visit www.sustainable-summits.com for more information

SUSTAINABLE SUMMITS CONFERENCE 2016 AORAKI MOUNT COOK NATIONAL PARK, NEW ZEALAND Sunday 7th August – Thursday 11th August 2016

PHOTO: CRAIG HART

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The conference will focus on practical solutions to issues in mountain environments

Organised and hosted by the New Zealand Alpine Club, celebrating 125 years at the hub of New Zealand mountaineering

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Conference themes: natural hazards, environmental impacts, and social and cultural adaptations

in association with:

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The programme features talks, panel discussions, field trips and social events

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Outstanding international presenters from Alaska, Austria, France, Nepal and New Zealand

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The venue is the Hermitage Hotel at Aoraki Mount Cook National Park village, with accommodation options for all budgets

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Optional final day field trips exploring the Hooker valley or glacier skiing in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park

Registration fee NZ$560 (excludes final day field trips)—discounts for NZAC and FMC members.

and with the support of Ngai Tahu, the Maori people of the southern islands of New Zealand Enquiries: smsummitsnz@alpineclub.co.nz

PEOPLE

NZAC VOLUNTEER OF THE YEAR 2015

ALASTAIR WALKER PROFILE BY STEPHEN SKELTON

A

lastair Walker, Scottish born expat, has given himself to the mountains and was awarded the NZAC Volunteer of the Year at the 2015 Annual General Meeting of the club.

Winter alpinism is Al’s passion, his fuel and, aside from his teenage son Cameron and beautiful wife Shelagh, winter climbing is Al’s reason for living. Al’s undying love for the hills has driven him, in his later years, to volunteer his time, energy and skills towards enhancing the amenities in, and accessibility to, the Darran Mountains, especially in winter. Al’s love for the mountains has spread through many of those who know him and his drive to just get out there and have a look has contributed in the overall growth of Kiwi alpinism.

Selflessly donating his time, expertise and energy to NZAC, Al is partly responsible for the electricity and good-tasting water at Homer Hut. In 2015 he project-managed the installation of a solar power system and new freshwater tanks at Homer. Now climbers can cook without burning through batteries and drink water that doesn’t taste like a campfire. Both these projects have significantly improved the experience of visitors to this incredibly popular destination.

Beyond volunteering to improve the facilities at Homer, Al oversees Homer’s wardens in summer and in winter he is the default keeper. For eight years so far Al has tirelessly organised the NZAC Darrans Winter Meet and presides over the event for two weeks, keeping records, giving beta and linking up partners. Without pay, he recently poured his love for winter climbing in the Darrans onto the pages of the The Darran Mountains in Winter, A Climbers Guide. Each year he volunteers as an instructor at the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival.

Al loves Fiordland and considers it the closet he can get to his homeland of Ben Nevis, where he learnt to alpine climb. They didn’t call it alpine climbing back then, in the '70s and '80s when he was scratching up the boltless, windswept granite walls of the Ben with straight shaft Pterodactyl ice axes and Swiss 8-point crampons. Back then they just called it getting frit, which has to be said in a Scottish accent to make any sense. Al got frit on several hard winter routes in Scotland, which were extremely difficult undertakings back in the days before cams and ice screws. Getting frit is something Al still likes to do. He’s in his 60s now, but he can still climb M4 and WI3 like a boss.

Al has inspired dozens of climbers to come to Fiordland to get frit. He sees the place as a challenging winter climbing destination with almost unlimited potential. Al has mentored several climbers, gallantly pointing out hundreds of unclimbed lines. He loans gear, spills beta and sends novices on their way, waiting for them with headlights on at the entrance to

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Homer Tunnel, providing a lift back to the hut for hot tea and toastie pies.

I was one of those novices Al beat into shape. He tied crampons to my ski boots with blue farm fence rope, threw some straight-shafted ice axes with leashes into my hands, and clipped something called a warthog to my harness. He sent me up an unclimbed line on Psychopath Wall. Quietly watching me freak out, 30 metres up a narrow strip of sugar snow on top of unfrozen turf, Al caught my only piece of protection as it dislodged from the face and twirled down the rope. Calmly, in a matter of fact way, he said, ‘I don’t think conditions are quite right today, you should just come down,’ and he took me off belay.

Al has a unique way about him—something that must take at least 60 years to procure. He drinks coffee before he goes to bed. He talks, and sometimes yells, in his sleep. He wears glasses so thick they could focus the sun to light a stove in a snowstorm. He hikes his pants up high and holds his head even higher.

Al spends so much time at Homer Hut, it’s essentially his crib. He doesn’t allow any freeloading. Last summer he apparently showed up at Homer after there hadn’t been a warden for a week or so. Al found the hut in a shambles and several unpaying squatters sucking up all the electricity, water and firewood. He is famous for telling a local Queenstown climber who refused to pay his hut fees: ‘If you can climb grade 30 then you can pay your fees. Now bugger off!”

Al is old school. He doesn’t rock climb. He uses skinny skis. He prefers to carry slung stoppers instead of cams. He places Leeper pitons. He climbs with leashes on his tools. He has of late, however, come around to buying lightweight winter boots and brightly coloured jackets. While Al has slowed down a bit, he can still climb 700-metre-long, hard winter routes while joyfully singing Barnacle Bill the Sailor in a voice that carries his thick Scottish accent through the icy spindrift.

Al has been awarded Volunteer of the Year for, what I’m sure seems to him, just doing what he loves to do. He enjoys seeing people get into the hills and challenging themselves. He loves Homer Hut and respects the luxury of having a comfortable refuge high in the hills of Fiordland.

He protects that luxury by efficiently managing it. Where he sees the need for improvement, Al will research the opportunities and put forth a well-considered plan. If Al has his way, I’m sure Homer will soon be as accommodating as Unwin Lodge, with hot water, internet and refrigeration. For Al, volunteering is his way of giving back to the mountains and the climbing community, which has given him so much. C Al at his beloved Homer Hut, Fiordland, summer 2016. TROY MATTINGLEY

PEOPLE

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IN THE

HOOD Standing atop the podium at the prestigious Yangshuo Bouldering Competition in China last year is probably not where David Hood—our boy from Rotorua—saw himself ending up when he headed off on a climbing trip to the States from his adopted home of Christchurch two years ago.

But there he was, standing in the first place spot, above a strong field of international climbers, including Ma Zida, Andreas Aufschnaiter and Stan Kokorin.

Hood is now based in Yangshuo, Guilin province, where the living is cheap, and the limestone steep. Hood's success at the Yangshuo comp has led to him receiving invites to compete at many more competitions in China, and he's now making his way in the world as a semi-pro climber, having pretired—or maybe just tired—from his previous working professional life as a geologist in New Zealand and Australia.

Hood was back in New Zealand visiting family and climbing in the Central North Island over summer, during which time he was gracious enough to offer me a tour of his local crag, Mangorewa, and endured an assault of questions about his life as a climber in China.

INTERVIEW BY KESTER BROWN

Hood climbing Lucky Strike (20), Moir's Mate, Cleddau valley, Fiordland. TROY MATTINGLEY

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How did you end up living in China?

In 2013 I was on a climbing trip in Yosemite. I was climbing with a Polish girl I met there, who lived in China. She later become my girlfriend, and invited me to visit her in China.

Congrats on your first-place finish at the Yangshuo Bouldering Competition.

Thanks. It was really strange, I really did not expect to even get into the final as there were a number of very strong international competitors who can climb 8C, and also compete in World Cup events.

I think the problems really suited my style of climbing. There was one slab, and many dynamic moves on the other problems. There was only one powerful boulder problem, which I could hardly even move on.

Have you always been interested in competition climbing?

When I was at high school, I entered a lot of competitions in New Zealand. I won a national speed climbing comp. I can't remember which year that was.

Some people say they dont like comps, and think they are boring. They say they are not competitive and that competing is not what climbing is about for them.

I find that competing really helps me to improve quickly. I also have the opportunity to watch many good climbers solve the same boulder problems in different ways. There is always pressure to perform, regardless of the level of competition. I think because of that, I feel much more pumped up after any competition than I do after a training/workout session, which is really good.

What are the comps like in China?

The comps in China are amazing! Usually the prizes are very good and the events are very professionally run, with very good climbing holds and route-setters.

Depending on the size of the event there can be a massive amount of organisation and funding involved. I have been to an international, government-run competition that was held at a brand new outdoor stadium. The start of the event was similar to an opening ceremony at the Olympics. Each competitor had to complete two laps on the stadium track, with a Chinese person in front of them holding a sign with their country's name on it. Every seat in the stadium was full, there were about 3000 spectators. It was pretty exciting.

How many comps would you expect to do in a year?

Last year I entered six comps. In 2014 I did nine.

Usually you don't hear about the comps more than a month in advance, that's just how it is.

The comp season runs from July to November, and there are events happening almost every week.

Hood climbing on some of the beautiful limestone crags that surround his adopted hometown of Yangshuo, Guilin, China. THORSTEN HENN (FACING PAGE), WILLIAM WING KI CHAN (ABOVE).

How's your Chinese?

Ha ha, my Chinese is not the best. I have been learning some Mandarin but the pronunciation is really difficult.

What's the cragging and bouldering scene like in China?

Generally it's extremely friendly and everyone is very motivated.

There is a core crew of Chinese climbers who climb sport routes outdoors, but the general population only top-rope outdoors, which is weird.

The bouldering scene on plastic is amazing.

The Chinese love training and are extremely strong on plastic. Bouldering with Chinese people in the gym and climbing outdoors feels quite different than in the West. It is extremely social and friendly. You find very strong climbers hanging out with mediumability and beginner climbers, everyone gets along really well, and it is quite normal to go and have dinner after climbing in a big group somewhere.

There is also a crew of foreign climbers in China, and they tend to climb together too, or hang out and go for noodles.

What's the actual cragging like?

The climbing is incredible. There is a lot of sport climbing on limestone with tufas around Yangshuo, and you can find all grades from beginner level to advanced.

The quality of the rock is very good and the routes are very long. There are also granite

areas in Kekatoh, in the north-west, for crack climbing. And of course there is Li Ming, which has sandstone crack climbing similar to Indian Creek in the USA. In 2014 I spent three months travelling through Yunnan and Sichuan on a motorbike. I found whole valleys of virgin limstone with not a bolt in sight. My friend has also been developing a huge granite bouldering field, Dao Cheng, at about 4400m altitude.

Are those all the main climbing areas?

There is also Getu, in Guizhou province, and Baihe, in Bejing province, which both have good sport climbing.

Do you think you'll stay in China long-term?

That's difficult to say. I enjoy a lot of things about China. There are also aspects that are less appealing.

Like what?

There are all the usual things people mention, like sometimes the air quality is not the best, or there is rubbish scattered all over the place, or that people are often spitting everywhere on the street. These things can sometimes be unpleasant but you get used to it.

What are your future climbing goals?

I would like to climb an 8c route outdoors. I would also like to do a one arm, one finger pull up!

I don't have any competition aspirations at the moment, but that might change.

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You made the first ascent of a peak in Sichuan in 2014, with support from an NZAC Expedition Fund grant—are you keen to do more alpine climbing? Or is sport climbing your focus these days?

The climbing in the Sichuan mountains is amazing. Unfortunately, that trip was plagued with difficulties—mainly access issues, which led to us not doing very much actual climbing, which was very frustrating. A good friend of mine recently died climbing in the same valley due to rockfall, which has made me think a bit more seriously about alpine climbing at high-altitude.

Sport climbing is my main focus at the moment. A few months ago I got payed to join the TV show Sasuke China: X Warrior, which is a spin-off of the Ninja Warrior shows. It was a really funny experience.

This year I have a trip on the cards to climb a 600-metre big-wall in the north of China—this time at low-altitude.

What's your favourite style of climbing?

Overhanging limestone sport is my favorite style, as you can focus on the movement and not worry about falling. Although I enjoy most rock types and styles, including trad and bouldering.

Do you have a training regime?

Not really. I would like to be more disciplined and have a training schedule. My training is quite varied. I go through periods when I will train using a hangboard, rings and do a bit of campus boarding. I am usually climbing outdoors a lot or am at the climbing gym getting too pumped to do any power training. I'm usually pretty active and go surfing and mountain biking a lot too.

I tried to stop eating bread because I heard that bodybuilders say it's bad for building muscle, but I just enjoy eating it too much. I find eating a small can of tuna within 20 minutes of finishing climbing is really good. I heard that your body's maximum protein intake occurs within 20 minutes of exercise.

Your new route, Kung Fu Panda (29) at Kawakawa Bay looks amazing. What's it like?

It is a rad line. It goes directly up a very nice overhanging face. It is a very beautiful place to hang out, with a view over the lake, which is about 100 metres below. I did a lot of bolting with Dan Head at Kawakawa. We bolted another line to the left of Kung Fu Panda as well. I ended up putting in 25 bolts that day. My elbow was really sore from so much spannering.

On Kung Fu Panda there is a crazy arm compression move which really hurt my elbow. I had to rest it for three months after my first try.

The climb is super dynamic with a couple of big moves. At the crux you feel like you will fall off, but at just the right moment you grab the finishing hold over the lip.

Hood on his route Kung Fu Panda (29), at Kawakawa Bay. DAN HEAD

hood’s high fives!

CLIMBING ACHIEVEMENTS 1. The Nose in a day (and a bit), in Yosemite, USA. This was an epic adventure. The climbing is amazing. It was my first big wall. I climbed it with Dan Head. It took us 24.5 hours of continuous simul-climbing. On the way down we got lost and the descent took an additional six hours. I was so tired on the descent that I was hallucinating in full sunlight.

2. Astroman, Yosemite.

3. The first snowboard descent of Malaspina (3042m), at Aoraki Mt Cook, via the east face.

4. Competing in Sasuke China: X Warrior.

5. Winning the 2015 Yangshuo Bouldering Competition.

FAVOURITE CLIMBS OF ANY STYLE 1. Alta Compression, (8a+), Getu, China.

2. Tantrum, (8a+), Tonsai, Thailand.

3. Single Life, (8a), Yangshuo, China.

4. Cara Congresso, (8b), Tonsai, Thailand.

5. Eye of the Tiger, (29), Grampians, Aus. ROUTES IN NEW ZEALAND 1. Kung Fu Panda (29), Kawakawa Bay. 2. Dancing on a Skewer (28), Paynes Ford.

3. Monkey Puzzle (28), Paynes Ford.

4. Louder (28), Froggatt Edge.

5. Dr Zeus (25), Mangorewa.

AREAS IN THE WORLD TO CLIMB 1. Yosemite, California, USA. 2. Céüse, France.

3. Yangshuo, China.

4. Castle Hill, New Zealand.

5. Indian Creek, Utah, USA.

INSPIRATIONAL CLIMBERS OF ALL TIME 1. Chris Sharma.

2. Dave Graham.

3. Ueli Steck.

4. Gareth Parry.

5. Sasha De Guillian.

ROCK TYPE 1. Limestone.

2. Limestone.

3. Limestone.

4. Granite.

5. Sandstone.

CHINESE STREET FOOD 1. Baozi and jaoaz (Chinese dumplings).

2. Beijing-style duck.

3. Any barbequed chicken.

4. Guilin noodles.

5. Anything with Sichuan pepper in it, which makes your lips go numb.

MOST PLAYED SONGS ON YOUR IPOD (BE HONEST!) This is kinda embarrassing. I'm sure this is not accurate, but this is what my iPod says are my most played songs: 1. All Night, Icona Pop. 2. Blueprint To Cut and 6 Rules For Success (audiobook), by Arnold Schwarzenegger.

3. At the Controls (mix), James Holden.

4. Applause, Lady Gaga.

5. Ghosts n Stuff, Deadmau5.

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'WARRINGTON AND I HAD INVESTED ALMOST ALL OF OUR SAVINGS IN A PROJECT TO PUT UP A STACK OF NEW ROUTES IN THE VALLEY AND HAD SPENT THE DISMAL WINTER HANGING OUT IN THE BIVVY AT COLOSSEUM CRAG.' 28

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BULLOCK CREEK TALES

BY NEIL SILVERWOOD The South Island's West Coast limestone has been something of a late-bloomer in terms of crag development. Any climber travelling the impossibly beautiful stretch of coast between Punakaiki and Charleston on a fine day can't help but notice the huge vertical bands of grey and yellow limestone that line the valleys stretching up into Paparoa National Park.

Robin Hood added the first couple of routes at Bullock Creek in 1985, and Bruce Dowrick had a sniff around in the late '90s. But development never took off, perhaps due to the area's reputation for access issues and soft stone.

But the tide is now turning for Punakaiki sport climbing; thanks to the enthusiasm of a mob of keen Coasters and Cantabrians, Bullock Creek is becoming a truly great climbing holiday destination. That enthusiasm peaked in the summer of 2014/15 when Neil Silverwood and Neil Warrington opened over 30 new routes at Paradise Crag, creating perhaps the best and most user-friendly crag in the valley.

Troy Mattingley on Assisted Suicide (19), a gripping trad line at Paradise Crag.

NEIL SILVERWOOD

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H

'IMAGINE STANDING AT THE BOTTOM OF 60-METRE-HIGH CLIFFS, LOOKING UP AND KNOWING THEY’VE NEVER BEEN CLIMBED … THERE ARE STELLAR ARÊTES, DEEP NATURAL-PRO-EATING CRACKS, STEEP OVERHANGING ROOFS AND LITERALLY KILOMETRES OF GORGEOUS LIMESTONE GOODNESS.'

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ave you ever wished you were somewhere else, somewhere warm and dry, perhaps a tropical oasis where ukulele music floats on the breeze and drinks come with little pink umbrellas? That thought crossed my mind late one winter’s eve, when I was up to my neck in a cold, muddy, eel-infested swamp. I was lost, swimming in circles searching for Bullock Creek Road, but I could find no sign of it. My headtorch barely penetrated the sheets of rain pouring down and I had the sinking feeling that life had reached a new, soggy low.

Just three hours earlier my climbing partner, Neil Warrington, and I were on Gumboot Ledge at the Arboretum. This crumbly crag is not my favourite at Bullock Creek, not by a long shot, but it is sheltered by a massive overhang, about 40 metres high, and provides fully weather-proof climbing. While Warrington and I took turns climbing, the usually dry creek bed below us began to flow. The creek started as a trickle and by dusk had become a torrent, quickly breaking its banks. Warrington called down from the top of a climb, shouting to be heard over the roar of the rain: ‘I think the carpark is going to flood!’

‘She’ll be ‘right Warrington, it never reaches the cars,’ I called back to him.

‘Water’s lapping at the tyres,’ he yelled back.

‘Don’t worry mate, we’ve parked well above the high water mark,’ I replied again reassuringly.

‘Looks like it’s over our tyres!’ he warned again, nervously.

We rapped down and Warrington went to investigate while I headed to the bivvy for my car keys. He turned up a while later, ‘Mate your car’s nearly flooded, I moved mine, be real carful in the river, I got swept off my feet at one point.’ I decided to take the swamp route, a series of grassy bogs I thought would be safer, though longer, and that’s how I found myself in such dire straits.

One of Bullock Creek’s best qualities is that there’s somewhere to climb in any weather.

Warrington and I had invested almost all of our savings in a project to put up a stack of new routes in the valley and had spent the dismal winter hanging out in the bivvy at Colosseum Crag, scouting, planning and putting up routes as well as enjoying the established old classics.

FACING PAGE: Neil Warrington on Short Story Long (22).

NEIL SILVERWOOD

THIS PAGE: TOP Troy Mattingley eyes up the final jug of Specist (25), the thirtieth route put up on the 30 Routes in 30 Days SportNZ expedition.

NEIL SILVERWOOD

LEFT The palatial Paradise Biv. TROY MATTINGLEY

RIGHT Lauren Kelley on Sunset Ledge, Machu Picchu Crag.

NEIL SILVERWOOD

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ABOVE Showing the way to a good user experience by installing decent signage in the valley. One of the aims of the 30 Routes in 30 Days Expedition was to improve access at Bullock Creek. NEIL SILVERWOOD LEFT Troy Mattingley on Room with a View (21) on the White Wall of Goodness, Paradise Crag. NEIL SILVERWOOD FACING PAGE Neil Warrington on Nelly's Nut (21) at the Colosseum. NEIL SILVERWOOD

The choice climbing had, for the most part, been ample compensation for the bad weather.

Imagine standing at the bottom of 60-metrehigh cliffs, looking up and knowing they’ve never been climbed. It was hard to choose which routes to do first. There are stellar arêtes, deep natural-pro-eating cracks, steep overhanging roofs and literally kilometres of gorgeous limestone goodness.

When the winter was over Warrington and I made the odd trip back to the Creek, but we’d both run out of bolts, money, food and fingertips. When a 30-metre-high, single-pitch route costs a cool one hundee, it’s hard to sustain development. So we got a team lined up and applied for a SportNZ Hillary Expedition grant to develop more climbs over the West Coast

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summer. SportNZ give out $100,000 in grants every second year for expeditions that inspire young people to get outdoors. Warrington and I promised SportNZ our first-born route, a guidebook, a kidney each and 30 new routes in 30 days. The latter would be the toughest to provide. Neither of us could believe it when we were awarded a grant. After all that time putting every cent we had into the project, climbing at Bullock Creek finally had some outside financial support. *** We made the ill-fated decision to base the expedition out of a large bivvy cave at the base of a crag called Paradise, two kilometres up Bullock Creek Road and about a 20-minute hike up the hill on the true left side of the river.

It was gritty, basic living at the bivvy, with the wind whipping up the sandy floor and depositing debris onto all our gear—but it was home, and most importantly, it was weather-proof.

We had a big task, putting up at least one route per day. We’d have to take few, if any, rest days, but we thought carefully through every route before banging in any bolts, and a team of climbers from both the east and west coasts came to help out.

By day 27 we had 25 routes up and climbed.

I felt exhausted—completely spent—and had no desire to ever put up another route. Warrington looked tired but positive and alive. The end of the expedition was in sight and we were struggling to muster the energy to keep going.

But we had friends helping out. One day Jack

Grinsted limped up the hill with a broken ankle and a gun, and shot us a goat for dinner. On day 28, Troy Mattingley and some friends from Christchurch arrived, along with a few local climbers, all feeling fresh and full of enthusiasm.

It was just what we needed. While I knew we were close to the end, I hadn’t thought there was any hope of completing the thirtieth route in three days’ time. On day 29, Troy reached out and grabbed the final jug of the thirtieth route.

We had done it. *** After the expedition, Warrington headed home to Canada and I went to Afghanistan to work on the ski programme in Bamyan, dreaming of the upcoming summer when I could get back to Bullock Creek. But I returned from the war-torn country to a firestorm of my own.

‘You have the right to remain silent, you have the right to a lawyer, you have the right to say nothing, anything you say can and will be used against you in a court of law.’ I stood gaping at the Department of Conservation’s prosecutions officer in the Westport DOC office.

He shook my hand. ‘Just so you know, at any time you can leave—just walk out the door,’ he said. I gulped and thought about that winter’s night in the swamp, almost wishing I was back there instead.

I didn’t know it then, but I’d walked into the perfect ambush. Just two days earlier, I’d received an email from the officer simply stating: ‘Neil, we need to talk, call me.’ I’d always had a positive working relationship with DOC, having worked a lot on their cave conservation programme. In my naivety I assumed they wanted to catch up about recent developments, so I walked into the room with a fresh copy of the new Paparoa Climbs—Bullock Creek guidebook, completely unaware they were considering prosecuting me for organising an expedition without DOC approval. It became apparent from an early stage they were not there to make a judgment call on our actions— minds were already made up on that. Their sole aim was to gather enough evidence to have a solid legal case against our expedition. They had forgotten, or neglected to acknowledge, that climbers in the area had been trying (with limited success) to establish a mutually beneficial relationship with DOC since 2008. They had also neglected the fact that a DOC representative had begun writing a report on climbing in the park in 2009, but years later, still had not completed it.

Lawyers, meetings, a damning newspaper article, and heated letters followed. NZAC entered the fray on the climbers' behalf. Finally,

'WE HAD FRIENDS HELPING OUT. ONE DAY JACK GRINSTED LIMPED UP THE HILL WITH A BROKEN ANKLE AND A GUN, AND SHOT US A GOAT FOR DINNER.'

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'THE PAPAROA NATIONAL PARK MANAGEMENT PLAN IS CURRENTLY UNDER REVIEW AND THE FATE OF CLIMBING IN THE PARK HANGS IN THE BALANCE … CLIMBING, IN GENERAL, HAS A LOW ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT AND HELPS PEOPLE FORM A CONNECTION WITH THE PARK.'

ABOVE Blimp Redemption (20), Paradise Crag. This was the first attempt at the line (on trad). It's now fully-bolted after being the scene of a ground-fall. NEIL SILVERWOOD LEFT Tom Smart eyeing up the next section of Man on Wire (24), Paradise Crag.

TROY MATTINGLEY

FACING PAGE Neil Warrington on the second pitch of House of Cards (19) on the White Wall of Goodness, Paradise Crag. TROY MATTINGLEY

after six months, things quietened down and DOC decided not to prosecute. It had been a case of David vs Goliath. The same people who backed the Bathurst mine and the Old Ghost Road cycleway chose to focus their energy on one climber and built a case against damage caused to Paradise Crag, a significant archaeological and cultural site. They claimed dangerous bolting techniques were used, pointed to the installation of bolts in a national park without DOC permission, and that destruction of rare native flora occurred.

They weren’t interested in building relationships or finding positive ways forward. They weren’t interested in the truth, which is that we placed every bolt in accordance with the NZAC position and technical guidelines, we had informed the appointed DOC liaison person of our expedition and where we planned to develop months in advance, but hadn’t received a reply. They weren’t interested in working with the climbing community as a whole to establish a set of guidelines that allows climbers to climb in the Paparoa National Park while avoiding sensitive areas and minimising environmental impact.

The Paparoa National Park management plan is currently under review and the fate of climbing in the park hangs in the balance. There are sensitive areas that could perhaps be designated as ‘no-go’ zones, but climbing, in general, has a low environmental impact and helps people form a

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connection with the park. All the crags at Bullock Creek are within roughly 200 metres of the road. The park is a terrific resource full of easily accessed, drool-worthy cliffs. If you would like to learn more about climbing at the Creek there is an excellent guidebook published by Kiwi Tracks as part of our 30 Routes in 30 Days Expedition (www.kiwitracks.com).

You can also follow the management plan review process on the DOC website, and have your say by making a submission.

There are signs that DOC may now be more open to the idea of working with the climbing community on a way forward that will benefit everyone, but it will take a push from all of us to ensure that the door is left open.1 Keep the tales of Bullock Creek in mind next time you’re out climbing and come visit us on the Coast. C

1 Recently, representatives of NZAC travelled to the West Coast to meet with DOC and discuss rock climbing within the Paparoa National Park and the Park Management Plan, which is being revised this year.

Both parties are confident that a positive and cooperative relationship has been established. It is highly likely that rock climbing will be recognised as a legitimate recreational activity and mapped in the new National Park Management Plan and that the plan will reference NZAC's Position on Bolting as the standard that should be adhered to. On our part, climbers should take care to preserve and protect the conservation and cultural values of the area. Specific care should be taken not to disturb Gossamer Grass (Anamenthale lessonia) a nationally vulnerable species. Also note that bivvy caves may be considered culturally sensitive by Ngati Wae Wae.

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ENHANCING THE EXPERIENCE BIGGER, BOLDER, SCARIER

BY DEREK CHENG The author gets in some morning rest on Big Sandy, two-thirds of the way up the Regular North West Face of Half Dome, Yosemite, USA. ANNA SMITH

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RIGHT The author fights off the temptation of grabbing a dangling fixed line, instead throwing for a sloper while cruxing out on the third pitch of The Power of Lard (23/24) on Snowpatch Spire in the Canadian Bugaboos.

ILLUSTRATION BY JOSH RAFF

THE FIXED, STATIC LINE WAS STARING ME IN THE FACE, IT WAS SO CLOSE I COULD HAVE BRUSHED IT WITH MY NOSE. IT WAS TEASING ME, TEMPTING ME.

I

was on the third pitch of The Power of Lard on the east face of Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos, Canada, one of the most impressive alpine playgrounds in the world. But I was too busy trembling in fear to rejoice in the beauty of the impeccable granite spires.

The pitch follows three bolts up a steep face before joining an arching corner crack that swallows cams. Directly above the pitch hung a portaledge, courtesy of team Stanhope-Segal, who were in the process of freeing the Tom Egan Memorial Route, a blank 5.14 traverse into a miniscule crack line that shares its first pitches with Lard.

Static lines hung from the portaledge to the bergschrund—they proved most helpful on the second pitch, when my climbing partner Yuki used one to overcome the leftleaning seam and overhanging face of the second pitch, a sandbagged 5.12a.

Now on the third pitch, I sensed the static line beckoning me, mocking me. I stared at the bolt well below my feet, and the sloper of inadequate proportions above. High foot on a granite pebble. High hand to the sloper. Commence uncontrollable shaking. Down-climb.

I traversed to good holds to my right, only to be stifled by even worse slopers, forcing me back to the ‘rest’—one flat hold and a small crimp. Each down-climb left me more and more flamed. The static line tickling my nostrils looked increasingly appealing.

After half a dozen tries in three different directions, I didn't have any more juice to down-climb.

‘Okay Yuki, I'm going for it.’

I moved up to the sloper, gripped again by involuntary shaking. Above me was a tenuous-looking rail that looked like it had been hand-slapped. I glanced right and saw a distant pod, lunged my right foot to it, and then hucked for the rail. My eyes popped in disbelief as I latched it, and I quickly moved my feet up to a less-than-vertical stance.

Holy sh**balls. That was exciting. I didn't realise exactly how exciting until I was safely back at the Applebee campsite that night. When I mentioned the pitch to one of the local climbers, he replied: ‘Oh, yeah, that's a terribly bolted pitch. I should have warned you about that. You're looking at a horrible ledge fall trying to pull that crux. I just figured you'd climb the 5.8 alternative to the left.’ *** The lightning bolt corner, which makes up the fourth and fifth pitches of The Power of Lard, is one of the most striking features I've ever seen: a beautiful scar on a steep, clean face. Ever since I ventured into the alpine, I've been in awe of such features, regardless of the difficulty of their climbing.

But to get to the lightning bolt corner you first need to overcome 5.12a climbing.

I'd never even considered trying a trad pitch that hard, let alone in the mountains. Climbing for me started on

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benign top-ropes on basalt columns at Mt Eden Quarry, then easy trad routes that were not much more difficult than severe tramping, then eventually I progressed to lead climbing on bolts. I was interested in trying to free climb routes, but always within my ability. I’d onsight many lines of the same grade before attempting any climbs of the next grade up. Redpointing was rare for me, and I didn’t even consider projecting.

But all that changed when I met Anna Smith, a Canuck who I had briefly crossed paths with at Paynes Ford in 2007, and who met me in the States on a whim for a two-and-ahalf-month-long road trip in the spring of 2015. At every crag we hit up, Anna immediately suggested we try the boldest, baddest, most blockbuster lines.

‘Let's hit Astroman,’ she said within minutes of us deciding to head to Yosemite. I hadn't climbed for two months and Astroman would've beaten, disemboweled and defeated me.

I felt bold enough getting on the Regular North West Face of Half Dome on my third day, despite my complete absence of experience with aiding, hauling, or overnighting on a wall.

‘You wanna do Cloud Tower? Or Rainbow Wall?’ Anna asked as we rolled into Red Rock Canyon. Within days of arriving in Zion, we were on Moonlight Buttress, the surreally aesthetic crack line we had no business being on, with six consecutive pitches of 5.12.

And it's not that Anna is the fastest, strongest or fittest climber to grace the planet. I soon learned that she often sat on gear or resorted to French-freeing (pulling on gear). Anna was never after the send, she was after the most badass experiences she could have, without unduly endangering her life.

We weren't strong enough to free Moonlight Buttress, but it's an easy aid climb, so we knew we could French-free it if we had to. When we topped out after an exhausting 14 hours on the wall—having fallen and pulled on gear countless times—we were beaming. What a magnificent experience, on one of the most unforgettable lines ever to grace a wall of rock.

Anna had another strong influence on me—when she asked me what my most memorable climbs were. After much deliberation, they all turned out to be trad multi-pitch routes. Being high up and moving fast, with so many elements to contend with, is a very enriching experience for me.

I am far more envious of strong, alpine adventurers, pushing up an epic wall in a sublime location, than mega-strong boulderers or sport climbers.

Last summer in the Darran Mountains was the first time I chanced my luck on harder multi-pitch trad routes such as Finders Keepers (23) and Shot in the Dark (24) on Moir's Mate. I didn't know until I was on the routes, but the cruxes on both those routes are bolt-protected. I fell on the thin, chalkless face cruxes, but eventually solved the riddles, and

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LEFT The east face of Snowpatch Spire, in the Canadian Bugaboos. The prominent lightningbolt corner of The Power of Lard is clearly visible to the right of the hanging ledge, on the lower right side of the face.

RIGHT Yuki Kuroda following the easy corner section at the top of the third pitch of The Power of Lard on Snowpatch Spire. The Segal-Stanhope fixed line is dangling behind her.

BOTTOM Milford Sound, The Twins and The Sentinel in the Darran Mountains from the South West Ridge of Barrier Knob.

DEREK CHENG (ALL)

freed the remaining climbing on each of the routes.

I would have felt more fulfilled had I onsighted the two climbs, but it was plenty rewarding having climbed them as we did. We’d been high above the line of tourist’s cars bound for Milford Sound, the evening sun on our faces, pushing our limits on gorgeous granite. *** Perfect week-long sunshine and blue skies accompanied my first time in the Bugaboos, and we spent every day climbing classic lines and bagging peaks. The place is breathtaking—it’s mind-blowingly beautiful. Every night at Applebee I gazed at the east face of Snowpatch Spire and the lightningbolt corner of Lard.

Last year in the Bugs I wanted to try harder lines. I met Yuki in the campsite. Yuki is a diminutive girl, barely breaching five feet tall. She lived in Squamish, and has an impressive list of hard crack climbs under her belt. Our first climb together was the classic Sunshine Crack, a ten-pitch 5.11a that includes off-width climbing, delicate hand traverses, a roof-crack, and a sensationally-exposed final fist-crack.

On the walk back to the campsite, I pointed out the lightning-bolt corner on The Power of Lard. There are two 5.12a pitches (one has a slash grade of 11d/12a), so we could try one each. The final pitch is 5.12d, but we could aid through it if it was too hard, or simply bail.

Yuki eventually succumbed to my constant badgering and, the next day, decided to lead the first 5.12a pitch.

‘I should warn you—I grunt,’ she said as she was about to lead.

‘That's fine. I do too. Everyone does when they try hard.’

‘No, no, you don't understand. People get quite alarmed if I don't warn them first.’

She pulled into the thin seam and immediately started pulling strenuous moves. The grunts erupted viscerally from somewhere deep within her. They sounded like violent dry retching.

She was soon off, and, after being stymied at more than one crux move, she Prussiked up the Stanhope-Segal fixed line. The pitch squeezed me as soon as I started seconding, batting me off more than once. The climbing was on tiny finger jams in tiny breaks in a seam. After a few metres the line moved through an overhang to a face with razor crimps, and then to a 5.10 hand-crack.

‘That was not 5.12a,’ I said as I arrived at a luxurious belay ledge. I took a few moments to de-pump, looked at the 5.8 alternative, and then at the steep face above.

‘Well, I may as well try the face. It's bolted.’

The pitch required a committing move before the first bolt, and then some technical, moderate climbing to the crux, well above the third bolt. It’s easy for involuntary shak-

ing to take hold at the crux move. I was trying to ignore a salvation-delivering static line tickling my nostrils.

When I finally made the move, my reserves were low for the easy section to the comfortable ledge at the base of the lightning-bolt corner.

Yuki led the next pitch, a 5.11a, stemming up the base of the beautiful corner. She moved gracefully, confidently, using palm-offs to move her feet higher. She moved right to an anchor on the arête. There was no grunting.

The corner continued steeply above, with beautiful finger locks. After 20 metres or so, the crack becomes a horizontal rail, and then moves back into a wider hands/fist corner. I climbed higher, wary of how many large cams I had left.

On the face to the right of the corner, I spied a feature that was scarred by the familiar black rubber of climbing shoes. Gingerly, curiously, I placed a foot into the feature, and reached blindly with my hand into … a perfect hand jam. I pulled over and looked up—a magnificent hand-crack ran up the face before meeting the corner again towards the top.

This time, with more moderate 5.10d climbing, I could inhale the exposure and the glorious setting, chopping my hands into the crack all the way to the top of the fabulous 55-metre-long pitch, relishing every move. Those are the climbing moments that linger in my memory long after I've untied and are unwinding by a campfire.

Two further pitches remained, including the overhanging splitter crack for which we had dragged up six yellow Camalots. But evening was approaching, and Yuki had plans to do a classic big-wall climb the following day. We abseiled down.

Despite not topping out, a quiet euphoria settled over us as we hiked over the glacier and back to camp. I had freeclimbed harder than I ever had in the mountains, and had climbed a striking feature that had been lingering in my memory for years. It had been some of the best pitches of climbing I've ever had the privilege of doing.

As I walked out of the Bugaboos the following day, the sun warming my stride as I turned my back on those divine spires, I contemplated the previous months of harder, longer lines in the Darrans, Yosemite, Zion and the Bugaboos. I still have great fun pushing myself on sport climbs, but The Power of Lard reinforced my love of multi-pitch climbs and alpine walls.

But striving for the send had also taught me another lesson, one that alpinists allude to when they talk about coming face to face with their true selves when pushed to the point of breaking: You never truly know what you're capable of until you try something you think is beyond you. C

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the

UNDER RADAR THE NORTH BUTTRESS OF MT ASPIRING

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BY PETE HARRIS Some climbing routes are neglected for good reasons, like poor quality rock, difficult access or high objective danger. But some routes are overlooked for lesser reasons—perhaps there is a more popular or easier route nearby, or perhaps the climbing style is not currently in fashion.

Sometimes there is simply no discernible reason at all.

In this series we profile some of Aotearoa’s forgotten or underrated climbs, give some credit where credit is due, and encourage you to look beyond the established classics and find those hidden gems, off the well-beaten path.

The northern aspects of Mt Aspiring. The North Buttress starts on the toe of rock that extends down the glacier in the centre-left of the face.

LANS HANSEN

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THE PROBLEM WITH HAVING INTELLIGENT, ATTRACTIVE AND OUTGOING FRIENDS IS THAT YOU ALWAYS END UP IN THEIR SHADOW, NO MATTER WHICH WAY THE SUN SHINES. SIMILARLY, THE NORTH WEST RIDGE OF ASPIRING UNFAIRLY CROWDS OUT ITS MATES. WHILE THE RIDGE IS—UNCONTESTABLY—A SUPERB OUTING, THERE’S A LOT TO BE SAID FOR SOME OF THE QUIETER ROUTES ON ASPIRING. LEFT Steve Harris seconding a pitch of nice schist on the North Buttress.

PETE HARRIS

RIGHT Pete leading on typical ‘exacting’ grade 13 terrain.

STEVE HARRIS

FACING PAGE Pete and Steve enjoying the spectacular position of the North Buttress, with the Upper Volta Glacier and Glacier Dome in the background.

STEVE SKELTON

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A

fter climbing the North Buttress in late January, the number of people who told me they’ve always wanted to climb that route amazed me, and was in stark contrast to the single recorded ascent in the Colin Todd Hut book over the last ten years. It’s unclear whether people are deterred by the enigma surrounding any route other than the North West or South West ridges, or by concern about access onto the rock, or conditions, but hopefully a little more information will increase the popularity of the sorely underrated North Buttress.

I was dreading the walk in (this being the third time I’d done it in a year), but it was over remarkably fast thanks to light packs and an early start. We made Colin Todd Hut in time for a leisurely afternoon, replete with numerous cups of tea and a siesta.

A tactical start the next morning resulted in a lovely set of tracks for us to follow all the way to the base of the North West Face, where we caught up with Ben Dare, Danny Murphy and Steve Skelton, who were racking up to dispatch the unclimbed face. From there, it was a merry jaunt across to the North Buttress, and there was barely a crevasse, schrund or slot to speak of when getting onto the rock. In fact, the access was unexpectedly straightforward. We were even treated to the luxury of sitting down and reclining while we removed our crampons on the snow, before prancing onto the rock.

In order to avoid a complex departure from town a couple of days prior, I’d loaned my brother and climbing partner Steve some gear, and being the kind brother I am, I gave him the luxury of toasty feet by lending him my triple-layer, insulated mountaineering boots. Needless to say, grade 13 rock is considerably more strenuous when you’re trying to edge and

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smear with over five centimetres of rigid rubber and insulation between your foot and the rock.

Straight off the snow, the effects of glacier recession and global warming were immediately apparent in the smooth, polished rock. It was sobering to climb a full pitch of polished rock that doesn’t even feature in the route guide. We then hit typical grade 13 terrain. From there, the route truly offered everything you’d expect from what is described as an ‘exacting [grade 13] rock climb’. Sections of scrambling on loose and blocky terrain gave way to orgasmic pitches of solid rock with a stellar variety of features. One pitch delivered glorious hand cracks, while another presented a beautiful chimney (with chimneying incentivised by loose blocks that filled the base of the low-angle feature). Later, there was a tenuous steep pocketed section, which was either off route, or graded in line with the Dave Fearnley Sandbag System. Additionally, there was no lack of low-angle, featureless slabs with excellent exposure straight off the north face down to the Waiatoto.

For the most part, there’s gear wherever you want it; you’re only limited by your imagination, the size of your rack, and rope drag. If you choose to pitch or simul-climb, as we did (thanks to triple boots), there are no shortage of riveting belay spots where you can recline on a ledge with bomber gear, and gaze off the edge to the Waiatoto lake 2000 metres below—my desire to learn how to jump off things was strongly reaffirmed. With alarming frequency, the peaks of the Haast Range offloaded copious quantities of their glaciers onto the bottom reaches of the Lower Volta Glacier, begging the question of how much longer these glaciers will grace the slopes of Mainroyal, Skyscraper and Stargazer in any meaningful way.

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2 1

1 North Buttress (III, 3, 13), Peter Robinson, Dick Irvin & Roland Rodda, Jan 1956.

2 North West Face (IV, 6 , 19), Steve Skelton, Ben Dare & Danny Murphy, Jan 2016.

BETA Season The best season for the North Buttress is late spring to mid-summer.

You don’t want to hit it too early as snow or ice high on the route could make the going tricky. While there are some reports of people being unable to get off the Therma late season, it was in very good condition in January 2016, with easy access from high up, although even when that breaks up, access onto the rock is available all the way down the tongue of the North Buttress, which stretches into the snow. I’d imagine that, given current conditions, there will be a few years of pretty straightforward access onto the North Buttress.

Perhaps a bigger access issue will be crevasses lower down on the Therma. From the col between the Iso and Therma, we kept our height, and slowly ascended on a fairly direct line towards the northeast face.

The route line itself is very open to interpretation, as every phototopo I’ve seen has the line marked differently. We never found the ‘very exposed traverse’ or ‘prominent light grey rock band’ described in the guidebook, but as long as it doesn’t feel too much harder than a staunch 13, you’re probably in the right place!

Gear In hindsight, the route would have been even more enjoyable in rock shoes. Granted, it’s only grade 13, but as the guidebook notes, it is an exacting 13, and you’ll move much faster if you can solo happily for the most part. A 60-metre half-rope sets you up well even if you do pitch, and a meagre rack with half a set of nuts and three small to medium cams plus some long slings gives you plenty of options.

It’s an excellent route for simul-climbing, with plenty of features for winding the rope around, although it can be a bit wandering, so rope drag can shut you down if you’re not careful. We didn’t encounter any snow that we had to cross until about 100 metres shy of the summit, so you’ll be perfectly fine with just a single tool.

Descent It goes without saying that the simplest descent route is the North West Ridge, or the Ramp early season. There’s supposed to be a rap line high up on the North West Ridge back down to the Therma, although this would also only be an early season way down.

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A devious scramble up the last couple of hundred metres saw us meet Ben, Danny and Steve on the ridge crest, just shy of the summit. They’d completed the first ascent of the North West Face, and were deservedly proud as punch. With an obligatory summit shot, we all set off for the pleasant meander down the North West Ridge, which is always an enjoyable and engaging descent. *** With a spare day up our sleeves, and a fairy-tale forecast, Steve and I decided to complete a high route out that he’d heard about. Dawn saw us departing Colin Todd Hut, eager to avoid the scorching radiation across the Bonar. We made the edge of the Bonar before the heat struck, and dropped onto the Maud Francis just east of Quarterdeck Pass. We descended hand-in-hand with our hopes. The crevasses got larger and increasingly impassable, necessitating exciting scrambles down rock to avoid their gaping maws. Eventually we made the Maud Francis proper, and reached the ridge halfway between Avalanche and the Low Peak of

THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE NORTH WEST FACE OF MT ASPIRING

Pete ascending the final snow slopes to the summit, with the Waiatoto lake and the Haast Range far below.

STEVE HARRIS

Rob Roy. I attempted to conjure up the transalpine tramper in me as we looked down to the shattered Avalanche Glacier over lunch. We pulled our phone-a-friend helpline from the ridge, trying to find the correct way to access the top of the Rob Roy valley, however, this was fruitless.

Eventually, we took it by the horns and ran the gauntlet, jumping yawning crevasses, scampering beneath teetering seracs, and rapping waterfalls in our race towards afternoon tea. Holding our height at about 1900m, we made it across the Avalanche Glacier and through to the final snowpatch, which, following afternoon tea and another siesta, took us over to the ridge between Rob Roy and Homstead Peak. From there, it’s a simple scurry around underneath Homestead Peak and down the wellcairned path to the Rob Roy valley.

While our route is a slightly longer descent than going via the West Matukituki, it provides a welcome relief from that furnace, and is a thoroughly recommendable high route out from the Bonar, although it’ll definitely be a more straightforward route earlier in summer. C

ON 30 JANUARY, the same day Pete and Steve Harris climbed the North Buttress, Steve Skelton, Ben Dare and Danny Murphy made the long-awaited first ascent of the North West Face of Mt Aspiring.

The fact that this face remained unclimbed for so long is something of a curiosity. The face is very prominent TOP Danny, Steve and Ben from Colin Todd Hut and is flanked by on the summit of Mt Aspiring, stoked to have made the first one of the most popular routes in the ascent of the North West Face.

New Zealand mountains—Aspiring’s PETE HARRIS North West Ridge.

ABOVE Mike Rockell on the Hundreds of people have climbed first pitch of the original 1982 the North West Ridge, treading a attempt on the face. This attempt took a line to the left of well-known line on the edge of the Steve, Ben and Danny’s route— neglected North West Face. In fact, it’s still awaiting an ascent, the only recorded attempt on the and can be identified by several pieces of abandoned protection. face was by Mike Rockell, Hamish PHIL CASTLE Mackay and Phil Castle way back in 1982. Mike, Hamish and Phil found themselves five pitches up the face late in the day and, having been soaked from a melt-waterfall, decided to retreat rather than face an open bivvy. At the time, Phil said he couldn’t believe there was still an unclimbed face on one of New Zealand’s most iconic peaks, and vowed to return. But after guarding the idea of the first ascent for a few years, Phil realised the opportunity for another attempt might never transpire, and sometime around the turn of the century started promoting the idea to the New Zealand mountaineering community, regularly posting beta and photos online. Oddly, no one took the bait. That is until last summer when, finally, 33 years after the first attempt, Steve, Ben and Danny decided to enter possibly the slowest race for a major first ascent in the history of New Zealand mountaineering. The trio flew to Bevan Col with a bomber weather forecast and, after a night at Colin Todd Hut, made their successful ascent.

Steve describes the rock quality, climbing, exposure, position and view on the climb as outstanding. They started about 100 metres from the base of the North Buttress at a wide layback crack, which was followed by some cool and interesting slabs, then an overhanging corner, then on to more good quality slabs. The climbers angled left towards the top where the rock quality deteriorated and they joined the top of the North Buttress. The crux was grade 19. Steve reckons the climbing was way better, and the access more straightforward, than he expected, and the route deserves to be popular.

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BOOKS AND FILM

MOUNTAIN RESCUE

Epic tales of search and rescue in high-country New Zealand

By Phillip Melchior Reviewed by Ross Cullen MANY OF our everyday activities are hazardous, such as driving a car, swimming in the sea, working with power tools, or playing rugby and other contact sports. We may not know or remember accurately those activities’ relative accident rates, but our participation in them suggests we judge the risk of accident or injury is acceptable compared to the payoff we expect from completing them. Canyoning, backcountry skiing, climbing and tramping in New Zealand’s mountains are each hazardous; injuries, hardship, and sometimes deaths occur. I know it and I think you know it, but we scramble and jump through canyons, slide and glide over snowfields and glaciers, and climb or tramp up and down mountainsides for the excitement, satisfaction, solitude, photographs, memories and kudos—rewards both external and internal—that mountain activities provide us. Some mountaineers, I speculate, do not realise just how risky canyoning, ski-touring, rock climbing and tramping are. Some recent coroners’ reports point sharply to a similar view, which provides a segue to Phillip Melchior’s book on South Island high-country rescues.

This handsome 272-page book recounts 11 incidents where a search and rescue operation was mounted after outdoor recreationists got into strife, or died in the mountains. The 11 incidents are strung along the Southern Alps, with a cluster of four around Tititea Mt Aspiring and three near Aoraki Mt Cook. An introductory chapter leads us into the book by briefly explaining how incidents in the mountains can happen to novices and veterans, amateurs and professionals, the well- and poorly-prepared, and the under-equipped and equipment-loaded. It also personalises Search and Rescue (SAR) by focusing on a high-profile SAR member Gary Dickson of Wanaka. Dickson provides insightful comments drawn from his 30 years of experience in SAR and first-hand knowledge of the stresses that SAR people encounter.

Chapter one revisits the rescue of Ruth Adams from Mt La Perouse in 1948, well before the establishment of today’s LandSAR organisation. The rescue is an epic tale, but it is well-known, and occurred 68 years ago in a very different technological era to today. Chapters 2-11 examine incidents occurring between 2004 and 2012 that called upon the voluntary SAR team in Wanaka or the professional team at Aoraki Mt Cook. Readers might wonder if the book, with its focus on just two teams and its emphasis on rescues, is unrepresentative of wider New Zealand high-country search and rescue activity. Melchior argues those two teams account for more than 80 per cent of search and rescue operations above the snowline in the Southern Alps. No other rationale is provided for the choice of rescues included or excluded.

The incidents span a range of situations, including professionally guided mountaineering groups swept away in an avalanche, experienced amateur climbers who make a mistake, out-of-their-depth novices who come

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to grief, unfortunate canyoners who need help, climbers caught out by changing weather, and visiting climbers who misjudge New Zealand mountains and do not understand their weather patterns. There are plenty of ways things can go bad in the mountains.

Melchior describes how each incident evolves from multiple viewpoints: superb ‘blue sky’ aerial photographs with routes and key spots marked; mountaineers’ photographs taken during the trips; photographs taken by rescuers; his own descriptions and commentaries on the terrain, weather, climb or scramble, participants experience, equipment and decision-making drawn from personal experience or interviews with both rescuers and rescued party members; direct quotations from rescuers, rescued party members, family members and from coroners’ reports. Combine those elements with lively text constructed in short paragraphs by someone who knows the Southern Alps well, add healthy doses of time pressure, human emotion, personalities, occasional politics, aircraft, radios, GPS, and satellite-supported technologies and the result is a page turner. Mountain Rescue provided me six hours of easy reading.

For each of the 11 incidents I gained a clear idea of what happened, where it happened, and what had contributed to the incident occurring.

There is much to admire about Mountain Rescue and only a few small items to quibble over. Quibbles first: repeated and implausible descriptions of ‘razor sharp crampons’, and a false description on page 174 of theories as ‘unproven speculation’. Theory underpins all LandSAR operations. Balanced against those blemishes are terrific photographs and admirably clear writing, grounded in first-hand knowledge of the Southern Alps and search and rescue in the Southern Alps. Melchior is a tramper, mountaineer, search and rescue volunteer and former chairman of LandSAR New Zealand. The book is printed on high quality glossy paper in 240 x 190 format and Random House have done a fine job on editing and production. Part of the proceeds from the book go to LandSAR Wanaka. Mountain Rescue is a must read for all high country recreationists.

Mountain Rescue—epic tales of search and rescue in high-country New Zealand, by Phillip Melchior. Random House, NZ, 2015.

BOOKS AND FILM

FIRST TO THE TOP

Sir Edmund Hillary’s Amazing Everest Adventure

By David Hill, illustrated by Phoebe Morris Reviewed by Erik Bradshaw INSPIRING A NEW GENERATION of climbers is an important role for NZAC, so it’s about time we reviewed a kids’ book!

My kids are three- and five-years-old. I’m not sure whether it is by virtue of nurture or nature but they don’t lack for a want of adventure.

Barely a week goes by without them asking, ‘when can we stay in a hut in the mountains again?’ I’m always on the lookout for good stories to read them so they understand that you can get a lot out of the world with motivation and a positive attitude.

First to the Top is a picture book of about 1000 words that can be read out loud in about 15 minutes. The story is focused around Hillary’s climb of Mt Everest but provides context by adding some details about his early life and significant events subsequent to the climb.

On opening the book you are immediately struck by the beautiful artwork of Phoebe Morris, which adds incredible depth and richness to the story. Phoebe’s illustrations add a surreal and engrossing aspect, which grabs both childrens’ and adults’ attention alike. It is always fascinating how kids react to things—my kids didn’t like some of the serious faces, and found the drawing at the top of Mt Everest ‘too scary’, but they loved all the rest.

The typography adds richness by presenting some of the more evocative phrases in large, bold typefaces, and uses placement of words on the page to emphasise going up the mountain and coming down the mountain.

Fortunately parents don’t need to try to explain the meaning of the word ‘bastard’ as the phrase ‘we knocked the bastard off’ is replaced with the more child-friendly ‘told the waiting climbers what they had done’.

Reading a book about Edmund Hillary to my children was a mixed

experience. Sir Ed personifies the Kiwi ideals of adventure, can-do attitude and toughness. He is a national icon. The fact that Everest was climbed by a New Zealander—not someone from one of the world’s larger countries—is one of those amazing twists of history, and sets a wonderful example for kids to learn about how life is a mixture of talent and timing.

My only criticism of the book is that it perpetuates the heroic adventure-myth, and doesn’t expose the tragic side of Hillary’s life. The death of his wife and youngest child is mentioned on the timeline on the final page but not in the story. Children are quite capable of understanding tragedy and including this in the story would have provided much more material for discussion with my kids and also help them understand that life’s great rewards are often matched with great hardship.

Like many good kids’ stories, First to the Top only focuses on all the good, positive stuff. It’s a great read and the artwork really makes the book. Although it’s aimed at kids, I’m sure many adults will enjoy it as well. I highly recommend it as a way to get you and your kids dreaming big!

First to the Top—Sir Edmund Hillary’s Amazing Everest Adventure, by David Hill, illustrated by Phoebe Morris. Penguin Books, NZ, 2015.

BOOK NOTES CANYONING IN NEW ZEALAND

EAST OF THE HIMALAYA MOUNTAIN PEAK MAPS

by Daniel Clearwater

MOUNTAINS … ONLY MOUNTAINS

Canyoning in New

Reflections of a New Zealand Mountaineer

Alps of Tibet and Beyond

Zealand is the first

by Barry Smith

by Tamotsu Nakamura

produced for canyoning

Barry Smith is a retired

This book is the life work

in this country. The A5,

scientist from Hamilton

of legendary Himalayan

full-colour, 464-page book gives canyoners the

who has been mountaineering in New Zealand

explorer Tamotsu Nakamura. It is a compila-

information they need to discover New Zealand’s

for many years.

tion of his 37 exploratory journeys conducted

guidebook to be

amazing canyons.

The guide covers all New Zealand’s classic descents. Fifty-one canyons are featured, all

Mountains … Only Mountains is a collection of

during a quarter of a century, from 1990–2014.

reflections on mountaineering from Barry.

The book’s breadth covers the borderlands of

The book includes descriptions of the

south-east Tibet, and the north-west Yunnan,

with full descriptions. Included are access

author’s times in the mountains, as well as his

west Sichuan and west Quinghai provinces of

maps, topos, overviews, and water-level

reflections on the nature of mountaineering—its

south-west China.

recommendations for some of the more

culture and trends.

popular canyons.

The book also provides an historical record

The work is illustrated with photographs and some of the author’s poems.

East of the Himalaya is the Japanese Alpine Club’s 110th Anniversary Publication.

Tamotsu has kindly donated a copy to the

of canyoning in New Zealand.

Self-published. Available as an e-book or print-on-

NZAC reference library.

Published 2015 by Kiwi Canyons, NZ.

demand from blurb.com.

Published 2015 by The Japanese Alpine Club.

THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

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BOOKS AND FILM

REEL ROCK 10 Sender Films and Big Up Productions Reviewed by Jarrod Alexander REEL ROCK 10 is a selection of films and edits from the annual Reel Rock Film Tour, compiled and provided as a 1hr 46min DVD or download.

The first time I saw the trailer for Reel Rock 10 I was psyched. It looked like the producers had attempted a throwback to the good old days of proper climbing porn. Like every other Reel Rock instalment, this one boasts a line-up of big names like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb and Kevin Jorgeson. The producers even roped Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold into appearing twice, giving Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma a chance to rest their vocal chords. Like the good Reel Rocks of old, Reel Rock 10 showcases most of the major climbing disciplines, although this year sport climbing takes a back seat.

The compilation kicks off with A Line Across the Sky, featuring the comedic duo of Caldwell and Honnold. Against all expectations, the pair are alpine climbing in Patagonia! What’s even more badass is that they are attempting the first ascent of the Fitz Traverse (the ridgeline of Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks). The film starts off with a cringworthy letter Tommy is writing to his baby boy, Fitz. Fortunately, Tommy is better at climbing than acting, and the film gets radder as he and Alex laugh away the lurking dangers. This segment was mainly filmed by Alex and Tommy during the climb, which sounds like a recipe for shaky footage, but through the wonders of editing trickery it has been forged into a great slice of viewing pleasure.

Next up is a heart-warming tribute to the late Dean Potter, which is bound to bring up dem feels. The tribute is disappointingly short but packs a punch.

The following film, High and Mighty, takes on a rather Karate Kid feel. The Daniel(san)s are the Grasshoppers, and learn the ways of masters Jimmy

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Webb and Nalle Hukkataival.

After an all-too-brief showing of Jimmy’s send of Livin’ Large (V15) in Rocklands, South Africa, the film focuses on the two Daniels (Beall and Woods) doing battle with The Process (V∞), in Bishop, California.

The second to last film is all about the annual Arkansas event, 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell—the American version of the Port Hills 300. The event is a 24-hour drinking and drug festival with some climbing thrown in. The film follows an intense battle of supremacy between the team of Nick Berry and Mason Earle and the team of Alex Honnold and Stacy Pearson.

The final edit, Dawn Wall Exclusive, had the potential to be the best, but the producers took a Hobbit approach, and chose to eek the story out to include multiple sequels. The Dawn Wall Exclusive segment of Reel Rock 10 lasts a measly 12-and-a-half minutes. That’s not enough for what has widely been classed as the ‘ascent of the decade’. You can, however, look forward to a full-length major motion picture of the ascent, to be released in the near future. The footage shown as part of Reel Rock 10 is a bit like an extended trailer—there is much to be desired.

Reel Rock 10 is sufficiently psyche-inducing, but it doesn’t have that raw, uncut feel you get from some of the older, classic climbing films; it’s of a new breed of modern, slick, HD films, which I find equally as entertaining, but which caters to a different palate.

Reel Rock 10, Sender Films and Big Up Productions, 1hr 46min, USA, 2015.

STUFF YOU NEED

LA SPORTIVA TRANGO CUBE MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS THE LA SPORTIVA Trango Cube is the latest model in La Sportiva’s Trango range. The Cube is a significant update and upgrade from the now-classic red Trango S Evo. The Cube is a new sports car that has it all for light and fast games in the alpine environment.

With a claimed weight of 710g in a size 42, this boot defines what ‘light is right’ really means. The Cube’s seamless upper-boot technology, with a Gore-Tex membrane, assures dry feet, and won La Sportiva both a European OutDoor Industry Gold Award and a Gear Institute ‘Best New Gear’ award. The Cube also has a Vibram ONE sole, a sole made by Vibram exclusively for La Sportiva, which keeps the weight down and the silhouette on the down-low.

The Cube is a real cross-over between approach shoe and mountain boot. I bought them for summer alpinism and guiding in the European Alps. After a full season of use I am more than happy with them. The boots are very agile; approaching over broken terrain, moraine and occasional snow-fields with Cubes makes the travel as comfortable as it can get. Most people dream about being in lightweight trail shoes while banging it down big descents in rigid big-mountain boots at the end of a long day, but I’ve found descending in my Cubes to be very pleasant. The flex of the sole, together with a good rocker, makes the Cube rate among the best in the comfort category. The tongue is adjustable for a custom fit. Another bonus is the solid feel, as they are designed to be worn with a close fit. Seamless construction, no inner slippage and precise lacing all contribute to suffering no blisters, which means happy feet.

The close fit might be a disadvantage for some as it means colder feet.

You have to be well aware that the Cube is a boot without any insulation.

As soon as your feet are in deep snow or you are in the shade and stop moving, the cold will get to your feet really fast. On the other hand, the close, solid fit coupled with sticky rubber provides high precision on rock passages and climbing sections. I usually do not bring my climbing shoes when guiding moderate multi-pitch alpine rock routes as the performance of the Cubes is more than enough for what I need.

One thing to keep in mind is their flex. The Cube has a TPU insert for rear crampon attachment but the boots are not very rigid. That’s a real

advantage on rocky terrain and approaches and descents, but it becomes an issue on long passages on névés, ice sections or snow-fields. No support means very tired feet on long frontpointing sections on those calf-burning slopes that are not steep enough to climb and not mellow enough to zig-zag.

I have taken my Cubes on the Piccolo Paradiso–Grand Paradiso traverse, and while I loved their feel on the actual rocky ridgeline, I cursed my choice on the steep glacier climb to the Col de Montandayne, as I dreamt about my fully rigid Batura boots.

Important point: The Cube’s flexibility means you have to switch your crampon’s bar to the flex mode on Grivel or Black Diamond products, or reposition the bar on Petzl crampons, (see the instructions that come with your crampons) if you do not want to have a surprise snap somewhere half-way up a mountain. I have now learnt my lesson.

What concerns many users is the boot’s durability. The upper has been good for me so far. I have used them in many cracks and bashed them on moraine. The fragile-looking plastic lacing system holds surprisingly well. The abrasion resistance is very high—this is helped by the seamless/ stitchless construction and high rand. There is an issue, however, with the rubber. While you will love its soft and sticky quality on rock ridges and climbs, you will curse La Sportiva at the end of a long season of climbing when a resole looks imminent. Well, I guess we cannot have it all.

Is this the ultimate boot for summer alpine climbing? It all comes down to the fit. Many brands offer similar cross-over-style models, so look for a slipper-like feel when you put your boots on. The fit is more important than a few grams up or down between different products.

La Sportiva Trango Cube mountaineering boots. HHHH –Gabriel Mazur

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STUFF YOU NEED

PRANA MOJO SHORTS I’VE NEVER been a big shorts wearer, even as a kid. My spindly little legs attracted far too many jeers on the playground and as a (quasi) adult the whiteness of my non-shorts-wearing legs attracts far too many jeers from the opposite sex. A vicious cycle, really. However, since moving to a truly hot part of the country, I’ve been forced to become a dedicated shorts wearer. I’ve worn a few different pairs of so-called ‘climbing’ shorts, but the Prana Mojo shorts are by far the best. Prana has had these shorts in their line-up for many years, for good reason. Even an injury that’s left me (temporarily) with one super-spindly leg can’t embarrass me out of my Mojos. How can a pair of shorts really be that good? They made the cover of last summer’s issue of the ‘world-famous in New Zealand’ crag fashion magazine The Climber. A friend cried when his seven-year-old Mojos were stolen from a hostel in Australia. Still not convinced? Then read on.

The Mojos are just super comfortable, never restrictive, look good and seem to last a long time. A lot of thought seems to have gone into making a really good, yet simple, product. There are a few distinctive features that bring the package all together, the best of which is a flat elastic waistband. The waistband fits nicely against your body and doesn’t bunch up under a harness. It’s fairly wide, so there’s plenty of room for the shorts to get some purchase without digging in. I’ve never had an issue (like I have with other shorts) of the shorts migrating out from under my harness when climbing. The fabric that Prana uses is a synthetic polyester with a soft inner surface that seems to slide against your skin even when you’re dripping with sweat. The synthetic fabric dries very quickly too. The cut has the shorts end just above the knee— not so long you might as well be wearing pants, and not so short someone might think you’re off to play rugby—just the perfect length really.

When being active, whether it’s climbing or running or working out at

the gym, these shorts never get in the way.

As a reviewer, I’ve got to try to find some negative stuff to say, so here it is: After a year of neardaily use the elastic wasitband is starting to look a little tired.

But it’s still snug. If you really load up the three pockets (two in the front, one with Velcro closure in the back) it is possible to have the weight overwhelm the elastic wasitband and have your shorts fall off. But really, you shouldn’t have that much junk in your pockets. The one thing I think is quite bizarre and is kind of a detractor is the false fly. The fabric is stitched to look like a fly, but it doesn’t open. Extra effort was made to make something that doesn’t work. What’s the point in that?

Anecdotally, it seems the sizing has changed a bit. I’ve been wearing a size medium for about a year (I’m 185cm and 73kg) and they fit perfectly.

A friend who is the same height and weight as me just bought a pair of mediums and they are too big for him. A quick search online shows that others are having this issue too The Mojos are my favourite shorts for everything one would wear shorts for. Climbing, having a coffee, going to the gym, strolling around town … whatever, the Mojo shorts are up to it. They come in a myriad of colours, aren’t that expensive for a pair of shorts that are going to last you many years and they’re super comfy. I even bought my dad a pair (and he loves them too).

Prana Mojo shorts. RRP $74.99 HHHHH

ROCK DELUXE NORTH a guide to the best crags and boulders 24 crags Over 1100 climbs Illustrated history of North Island rock climbing Full colour topos Dozens of inspiring climbing images Access, accommodation and other practical information for every crag

‘The best guidebook I have ever seen’ –Graeme Dingle

Order online at alpineclub.org.nz All proceeds from the sales of Rock Deluxe North will go to a fund for the support and development of rock climbing in the North Island

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–Graham Johnson

STUFF YOU NEED

QUICK RELEASES Product and industry news

Your local Outdoor Store ONLINE

THE NORTH FACE :: THE OTHER WAY The North Face is revitalising their premium Summit Series collection by launching a limited line of apparel, infused with new technology.

The approach to unveiling the new collection is ‘The Other Way,’ which ties to the product being designed outside the traditional RD&D timetables, crafted on three guiding principles: Respect, inspire and evolve.

Last year the product was tested by Conrad Anker, Hilaree O’Neill, David Göttler, and Renan Ozturk as they set out to explore new valleys, and find potential new climbing opportunities in Langtang National Park, in the Kyanjin Gompa region in Nepal.

The Summit Series collection works in a layering system from L1 to L6, with simple yet purposeful design. It will be available in limited quantities online at thenorthface.co.nz from April 14.

The North Face is running a giveaway to win a winter alpine climbing experience with Adventure Consultants at Wye Creek.

There are four places available, for a chance to win purchase any apparel item from the newly launched Summit Series collection on Thursday 14 April and complete an online entry form.

GET A GRIP :: CHALK PASTE Get a Grip is a small start-up Kiwi business producing liquid chalk. The paste is made of chalk, alcohol and water. You smother your hands in the stuff before climbing and like magic they turn white and stay covered in chalk for ages as you climb.

The Get a Grip crew did a bunch of product testing at climbing gyms and crags around the country before settling on the perfect recipe. It’s good stuff, it works, and it’s locally produced. Get it from g3tagrip.kiwi.

Mailorder specialists for

• Climbing and mountaineering equipment • Headlamps for hands-free lighting • Camping, trail and tramping needs • FREE delivery on all orders • Orders ship within 24 hours

EDELRID :: OHM The Edelrid Ohm is a new solution for the problems experienced by climbing partners with a significant difference in weight. The Ohm is an assisted-braking resistor that you install at the first bolt on a climb. In the event of a fall, the Ohm increases rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier partner without being suddenly pulled off the ground and thrown against the wall.

The device is designed to still enable smooth paying out and taking in of rope when climbing and belaying, and Edelrid claim it has no negative affect on handling. The Ohm was developed for use at climbing walls and on sport routes.

Check out a video of how it works at edelrid.de/en/edelrid-ohm.

outdoorestore.co.nz OES NZ_NZClimb 16.indd 1

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STUFF YOU NEED

BLACK DIAMOND BETAMID/BETA LIGHT TARP

The 2016 RemaRkables Ice and mIxed clImbIng FesTIval Is sellIng ouT FasT! Register today for our 2016 technique clinics or general climbing and skiing. Meet new climbing partners, catch up with friends and enjoy three great days of climbing and evening entertainment including a movie night and guest speakers.

adventure consultants chicks n Picks Tendon Ropes Ice and mixed clinics snow craft clinics I & II learning to lead clinic earth sea sky ski Touring adventure earth sea sky ski Touring clinic

iceandmixedfestival.co.nz

Daniel Jol

iclimb.co.nz general climbing & skiing

THE BLACK DIAMOND Betamid/Beta Light is a tarp-style tent that sets up by using two adjustable trekking poles. The Betamid (traditional coated nylon and 1.020kg) stopped being sold last year, but the Beta Light (silicon impregnated nylon and 538g) is the same design in a lighter package, and is still being made. For this review I’ll just call them both ‘Beta’.

I’ve had Black Diamond Beta tarps longer than just about any other piece of equipment I own. I’ve been using a Beta since 2002 and a have spent hundreds of nights under one, during trips as diverse as ski-touring and ice climbing in the Adirondacks of New York in -20 degrees and heavy snowfall; to summer weekends at Mangaokewa. It has battled sandflies and torrential rain in the Darrans, and extreme wind and more rain on Vancouver Island, in Canada. I’ve relaxed under it in the trees at Arapiles, and it’s been a cook tent on Denali. This tarp has been my shelter of choice for all but the harshest mountain environments for over a decade.

A tarp definitely has disadvantages over a conventional tent—you need a fairly large area of space, and need to stake it out well to get it weatherproof. I’m not a terribly pedantic person, but there are two things I am insistent about in the backcountry: A well-packed pack, and a wellpitched tent. You need to be a little pedantic to pitch a Beta well. Once well-pitched however, the Beta is a bombproof and reliable setup.

For winter use, two people on skis provide enough gear to construct anchor points (using skis and ski poles) to pitch the Beta without the need for any additional anchors. In winter, once set up, you can dig out snow to make the interior bigger and more comfortable. In summer, it’s a good idea to pick some solid ground as a lot of tension is put on whatever you’re using as an anchor.

Pitching the Beta so the fabric is tight means it sheds precipitation very well. With the poles out of the way, the Beta can sleep three people comfortably.

Even without a floor, the Beta does an excellent job of keeping the wilderness away—including rain, snow and flying insects. The steep sides maximise the covered area and the high peaks of the ceiling make sitting up very comfortable—far more comfortable than any two-person tent I’ve been in.

Black Diamond sells two extremely important accessories for the Beta: a detachable bathtub floor (570g, tested and loved) and a complete inner tent with bug mesh and waterproof floor, called the BetaBug (825g, not tested). The floor has been great when camping in boggy environments or in the rain. At 1.37kg without poles the Beta/Bug combo is lighter than all but the lightest two-person tents with poles. When compared with a classic like the Macpac Minaret, at 2.1kg and 3.25 square meters of covered space, the Beta/Bug combo stacks up very favourably, with 4.7 square meters of covered area, and it’s over 700g lighter. (These weight comparisons assume that you’ll already be carrying a pair of trekking poles.)

Packing the Beta is a breeze. The Betamid is about the size of a onelitre water bottle when packed, and the Beta Light is about half that size.

I have one very small gripe with the Beta: I wish it had a vent at the top of the zipper like its big brother the Mega Light. Sometimes when cooking under the Beta steam gets trapped in the roof peaks and condenses.

A vent would help alleviate this problem.

The Beta series has replaced my tents for all but the worst weather and the most difficult alpine climbs.

Black Diamond Betamid/Beta Light tarp. HHHHH –Graham Johnson

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THE LAST PITCH

HAVING A HIMALAYAN GOAL IS UPLIFTING, AND MAKES ME A BETTER HUSBAND AND FATHER.

The Last Pitch: continued from page 56

Climbing Ama Dablam (6812m) in 2012 was great because when I first saw her on a trek, I thought to myself, ‘No way I can’t climb that thing.’

Then a few years later I was standing on the summit. Recognising the enormity of what I had on the line at home was a really good thing. That perspective changes your focus; if things get weird in the mountains you sense it faster, and it helps you focus on what’s really important. Whether it’s because of my age or having kids, my risk tolerance has changed. My mantra before starting each day in the mountains is: ‘it’s a round trip’.

What has also changed is that my wife and I are not doing multi-day mountain tours together. This winter will be interesting as my wife is ready to ski again, after the recent birth of our second child. Like many of our mountain activities nowadays we’ll be skiing separately because it’s more pragmatic. Like most other families, our time budget is tight.

I absolutely agree that ours kids will do better to have us around, and I fully grasp that watching my children grow up is a great gift; it’s an adventure beyond anything, even those available in the Himalaya. It’s a consolation for growing old, in fact it is a reason I look forward to growing old (sort of). But, I also know that if I don’t see through my goals, I’m not going to be complete with my family.

My wife often accuses me of being selfish, and she’s 100 per cent correct. I try to mitigate the risks and time away as best as I can. I don’t see that I have to inspire my kids to go to the Himalaya, but I do live this life and hope my kids see at some point that living the life you truly want is worthwhile. I personally hope that my kids get into skiing, or maybe into

triathlons or something, but mainly I just hope they find a passion. Having a passion helps you live a more meaningful life, and for me that includes going to big mountains.

This winter I plan to ski a lot with my five-year-old. Last winter he was just starting to get the hang of it and it was awesome to share the sport together. That’s also very much in the equation for me. My wife and kids are very important but so is my sanity. They are better off with a father who shows them by example how to live an intentional life. I also hope they see life is for living, not just for surviving.

In short, if you are a father and a husband, there are many compelling reasons not to plan expeditions to the Himalaya. As parents, we strive for a precarious balance between nurturing our children but encouraging them to take wing and fly. As someone who is planning an 8000m adventure, it’s the same balance between safety and challenge. So, is it worth putting the family through it? It’s all about balancing our personal needs with those of our family. I have a dream that one day soon I’ll be back skiing with my kids, as a family, exhilarated from the high Himalaya, and exhilarated from watching my kids develop into much better skiers than me. C

AVALANCHE AWARENESS in the New Zealand Backcountry

New Zealand’s go-to avalanche awareness handbook is now fully updated, reflecting the best in current avalanche knowledge, applied to New Zealand’s unique mountain environment. Everyone who visits the mountains needs to have an understanding of avalanches and the threat they pose. This book provides simple strategies for identifying avalanche terrain and avalanche conditions, explains how to make wise decisions and teaches rescue techniques. Well illustrated with colour photos, diagrams, and a New Zealand regional guide, this book is an essential companion for climbers, snowboarders, skiers, snowmobilers, trampers and hunters. It also serves as a reference text for New Zealand Mountain Safety Council avalanche training courses.

photo: www.alpinerecreation.com

THE CLIMBER ISSUE 95, AUTUMN 2016

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THE LAST PITCH

Ama Dablam. DEREK CHENG

PUTTING THE FAMILY THROUGH IT IS IT WORTH IT?

BY RODNEY GARRARD

Y

ou often hear people say ‘it’s better to set an example doing the things you love, even if they are dangerous, and inspire your children, instead of leading a less risky life,’ or, that a climber’s family and friends would somehow find solace knowing that she or he died doing ‘what she or he loved’. To me that’s scant consolation to the children. Both of those statements do not really capture the meaning of what it means to seek adventure in the mountains as a husband and father. For me, it’s simply a case of spending time in the mountains; to play in, and be in awe of, a place that provides strength to body and soul alike. Since moving to Zürich in 2009, I’ve come to admire the way the Swiss balance their lives with plenty of time in the mountains. If I’m not in the mountains then I become a drag to myself, and those around me.

I don’t have a delusion that climbing an 8000m peak in the Himalaya is safer than everyday high-risk activities like driving. But I do believe the sum rewards of an all-out Himalayan adventure outweigh the reasonable risks to my family and me. Having a Himalayan goal is uplifting, and makes me a better husband and father. In fact, fatherhood in many ways is like planning for a Himalayan adventure. There is nothing that truly prepares you for either. No amount of expert explanations, advice from friends, or instructional courses and manuals can do either fatherhood or Himalayan

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climbing justice. I’ve learnt that first-hand after five years at fatherhood and multiple expeditions to the Himalaya. In the end, climbing in the Himalaya and fatherhood come down to one thing: until you’re there yourself, wideeyed and terrified, you will have absolutely no idea what it’s like. Combining two such powerful and all-consuming life experiences will always be a challenge (or a curse). Both experiences share the same kind of challenge that is at the centre of a happy, fulfilled life: dealing with risk.

Are being a husband and father and planning an expedition to the Himalaya conflicting passions? Ambition and passion makes me want to excel at both, an impossible task because time spent on one takes away from time spent on the other. I’m conscious of my family, and I actively let their presence influence what I do.

The last time I was on a Himalayan expedition was in 2012, so those trips are not regular. Also, I find myself doing less frequent multi-day mountain trips these days, but when I do go, I maximise the days out.

When I was pre-kids, I was definitely willing to do more, and go further, more often. I’d go to the hills at a moment’s notice, and if I am honest I never felt the risks were very high. In hindsight though, I have to say I was way out of my depth!

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T H E N O R T H FAC E . C O . N Z / S U M M I T

T H E WOR L D’S F I N E S T A L P I N E R E I M AG I N E D E QU I P M E N T

Vector Helmet

For more information and where to buy: www.southernapproach.co.nz or call 0800 335 000

Babsi Zangeri Black Diamond Athlete Bellavista, Tre Cime, Italy Photographer: Thomas Senf