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ARGAN & VIRGIN COCONUT OIL SHOWDOWN
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MYTHFOLIATION Eczema to Exfoliation, Healthy Fats, Oil Pulling & More FAQs
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FROM COOL SMOKY EYES, SWEET NUDE LIPS & FLUSHED CHEEKS TO LUMINOUS SKIN, BOLD LIPS & EVEN GLITTER: IT’S A GLAM SLAM!
ARGAN VS. COCONUT:
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OIL PULLING, ECZEMA 101, HEALTHY FATS, ALCOHOL 101, COCONUT OIL AND NUT ALLERGIES, TIPS, TRICKS AND MORE, IT’S OUR
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The nerdy side of beauty “It’s the rise of the nerds,” said the brilliant journalist, ex-bureau chief for one of the largest media networks who has since founded her own news company (whose technology happens to be changing the world of news). I was lucky enough to hear her speak and sit next to her over lunch — alright, the latter wasn’t luck; I introduced myself as the daughter of her dermatologist and fan-girled my way to a selfie and lunch invitation. In her statement above, she was referring to how drastically technology was changing how we get the news, how we live, even the firing of our brain synapses. In one of those great conversations covering every topic under the sun, I sensed we hit it off as women who appreciated innovation and smarts. “Your mom finally helped me understand it,” she confided, speaking about her atopic dermatitis, “I felt, finally, there was a science to it.” There is indeed. The rise of the nerds doesn’t just refer to the innovators driving change but to clients wanting to know more and demanding smarter care — embracing their inner nerds, as it were. This accomplished journalist was speaking not as an investigator, after all, but as a patient, relieved at finally being made to understand her skin’s condition and what she could do about it. Enter our annual “mythfoliation” issue where we address some of the most common questions and pressing issues in skin and more. Our care is smart — we don’t have over 75 clinical studies published in medical journals for nothing. But as important to us is helping people feel empowered with accurate knowledge. We explain the science behind skin care and beauty, and bust myths where needed. This InSKIN is packed as usual, starting on page 5 with a breakdown of argan and coconut oil, and continuing throughout with hot topics in skin, health and beauty: from fillers to oil pulling, fats in food, to nut allergies and more.
practices from a dermatologist who specializes in the condition), as is “Perfect Polish” on page 19 (a dermatologist explains the basics of exfoliation). We’ve actually been “crowd sourcing” from patients and doctors for decades. Our formulations have never been based on what’s “hot.” They’ve always started out as customized prescriptions for my mother’s patients. Successful ones go on to clinical studies then consumer product development...and we all participate in that testing, hands thrust up in the air, everyone on the team going, “Me, pick me!” Total nerds. :) In the collage above, that’s my personal “guinea pig” stash in the Instagram post. In the same collage, I’ve juxtaposed some awarded and published clinical studies with magazine “skinthusiasm” — in our world, beautyeditor applause, happy customers and clinical studies of the highest medical standards are inseparable. Our science is formidable but it is also beautiful. Check out the brilliant lips (page 3), runway-fresh looks and makeup hacks (one by Cosmopolitan online’s beauty editor!) on pages 11-13. All feature our patch-tested makeup, packed with virgin coconut oil, monolaurin and antioxidants. Who knew good-for-you could look so gorgeous? We did, of course. And if you knew, too, or suspected as much, join us online on Facebook, Tumblr, Twitter and Instagram for more beautifully “skintellectual” conversations.
In this social age, our knowledge is crowd-sourced, too — fans and expert resources regularly share their stories and tips with us and our readers, and this issue is no exception. “Eczema 101” on page 4 is a wonderful example (a personal success story of how a mom came to successfully manage her eczema plus best
CEO, Creative Director VM V H Y P OA L L E RG E N I C S ®
L a u r a A tV M V
VMV HYPOALLERGENICS ® is a safe product alternative in CAMP, the Contact Allergen Management Program of the American Contact Dermatitis Society (contactderm.org).
2|VMV I nS K I N
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Copyright © 2014 VMV Limited. All rights reserved. Printed in Philippines. InSKIN is published quarterly. All products, images, text, and intellectual property Copyright © 2014 of VMV HYPOALLERGENICS ® through VMV Limited. No part of InSKIN may be reproduced without the prior written consent of VMV HYPOALLERGENICS ® through VMV Limited. InSKIN and VMV HYPOALLERGENICS ® logos, various titles and headings, all text and images, and all product names herein, are trademarks of VMV HYPOALLERGENICS ® through VMV Limited. For inquiries, visit vmvhypoallergenics.com > Ask VMV.
Fall 2014 letter from VMV
feeling down?
kiss it glitter
Sweet prom dream scene or sharp punk fairy dust, we were mesmerized by all the glitter that rained down upon lids, lashes and lips this season. While the former may require a little bravery, anyone can pull off a sparkling lip with ease. Try a matte-ish metallic like Glitz Lipstick to sparkle fine and subtly. Or go for a slicker shimmer with Lip Glitter Gloss. Either option is eye-catching, very pretty and an instant mood-lifter. There’s a nice assortment of dye-free options and all shades are paraben-, preservative-, fragrance- and irritating wax-free. They’re packed with antioxidants and virgin coconut oil, too (so lips glow as beautifully when the glitter comes off).
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VMV I nS K I N |3
PERSONAL skinVESTIGATION
mythfoliation
ARGAN OIL VS. COCONUT OIL
OIL PULLING
My mom’s been doing it for years but is this latest health fad pulling our legs more than anything else? I decided to learn more.
We B r e a k It D ow n
GREASE FIGHTING? Of the two most talked-about oils out there, which takes the lead?
1) Growth hormones Argan oil comes from the kernels of the argan tree fruit which do not contain growth hormones. Virgin coconut oil (VCO) has phytochemicals and growth hormones which contribute to its cosmeceutical effects (look for first-pressed VCO, free of heat and other processing or additives, to get as much of this good stuff as possible).
From celebrities to health gurus and beauty insiders, oil pulling’s all the rage. Is it legit?
by LAURA VR BERTOTTO
2) Published studies Argan oil seems to have one observational clinical trial and none of the gold standard randomized, double-blind clinical trials as of yet. In this one study, a “sebum control cream” containing polyphenol-rich extract from saw palmetto, sesame seeds and argan oil was applied over 4 weeks, with sebum (oil) measurements taken. The results showed, “efficacy of the sebum control cream tested to reduce the greasiness and improve the appearance of oily facial skin”. VCO, on the other hand, has numerous randomized, double-blind clinical trials published in peer-reviewed medical journals on its antiseptic properties against various microbes, on its moisturization for atopic and xerotic skin, and more.
01
Why swish it?
03
Can it help skin?
3) Fatty acids
Know-It-Oil
Essence Skin-Saving Toothpaste
05
Gag me with a spoon?
02
VCO wins by a mile with a whopping 92% saturated fatty acids (versus argan oil’s 18%). VCO’s fatty acids are also more stable, less prone to oxidation, and give firmness to cell walls, which is so important for barrier repair.
OIL ON THE
4) “Good” vs. “bad” fatty acids Argan oil has 36.8% more pro-inflammatory linoleic acid (omega-6) to VCO’s 2%. VCO also has far more anti-inflammatory fatty acids like caprylic, capric, and lauric acid.
5) Preservative-free
LINE
ç
Teeth, gums, breath
We’re always on the lookout for the safest, most effective ingredients. We have yet to see compelling evidence to create an argan oil product (and we’re all about the evidence). There are far more clinical studies on mineral and other oils, for example, and we have not yet found an oil to rival virgin coconut oil in terms of its anti-aging and cellular health capabilities, barrier repair, antimicrobial, and fatty acid benefits, or its nutritional value.
04
Why virgin coconut oil?
Argan oil lasts about 12-18 months but could last 2 years if it is a virgin oil of very high quality, and if stored in small bottles away from light and below 18ºC (about 64ºF). VCO lasts 2 years or more without special handling. This stability is fundamental to many of VCO’s skin benefits and it means that VCO does not need preservatives (many of which are allergens).
6) Environmental impact Argan oil is from a tree that grows in a small, specific area of North Africa. VCO comes from coconut trees which grow widely and easily in tropical/sub-tropical countries, making for easier management and tree replacement.
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VMV I nS K I N |5
SHAVING
MANE ISSUES Acne, redness or dark blotches on the forehead, cheeks or back? Dry, flaking scalp? Check your hair products. Allergens and comedogens in shampoos, conditioners or styling products can trickle onto skin (especially with sweat) and cause all sorts of skin and scalp problems.
FUR SURE Allergic? Bathing pets in fragrancefree shampoos may increase cuddle time!
...is both hair removal and skin care. Creams can cause rashes; razor burn is common, bumps can be a real pain. Think beyond what you take off; what are you putting on? Your shaving products should help your skin, not hurt it.
mythfoliation
O U R A N N UA L M Y T H “ P E E L”
reduces fine fibs & whoppers, deep-cleanses bewilder buildup
Try: 1635
Try: Essence
GLOW THE DISTANCE All skin tones can get spots and blotches from sun & light exposure or after pimples, rashes or other skin traumas. Slowing cell regeneration makes skin look dull and older. Tyrosinase inhibitors help skin radiate from up close and afar.
Try: Essence SkinSaving Hair Care
CARE NOW Your kids’ skin care is about health, not vanity.
Try: Grandma Minnie
TRUTH BE TOLD:
skintelligencenter.com
Try: Illuminants+
what works?
Everything you ever wanted to know about skin. And then some!
Look for evidence-based. A product created by a dermatologist or scientist, or that’s “clinically-tested,” or tested by 300 women who say they saw an 80% improvement in their skin after using it might be good. But it’s evidence-based studies (randomized, doubleblind clinical trials) that are the gold standard of proof of efficacy, particularly if they’ve been published in peerreviewed medical journals.
men’s skin care? Think skin, not gender.
coconut oil & pores Is coconut oil comedogenic? In a nutshell (ahem), no. Old comedogenicity tests in the 1960s and 70s used ingredients, often at much higher concentrations than what’s used in products, on rabbit ears. Rabbit Ear Assays have been shown to be less accurate than tests on finished products and realistic concentrations of the ingredients on human skin. A recent clinical study showed virgin coconut oil to be non-comedogenic in newer, more reliable DHSA (Draelos Human Skin Assays).
DO SWEAT IT! Don’t let sweat acne keep you from being active — it’s too important!
Try: Id Monolaurin Gel
Ever notice how lasers don’t come in male and female versions? Neither do psoriasis drugs, chemical peels, topical steroids or sunscreens. That’s largely because, except for conditions that are specific to pregnancy or genitalia (obviously), skin concerns are skin concerns. This is true of different races, too: under a microscope skin cells are skin cells (darker skin will just produce more melanin or pigment). While some problems tend to be more common in certain racial groups or genders, treatments clinically proven to be effective on them should address the same issues on male or female skin of different races. When choosing skin care, we recommend taking the “for men” talk with a grain of salt. More important to consider are the skin types and skin concerns addressed, the scientific legitimacy of the brand, and the ingredients used.
are fillers all I need? They’re great options but you still need a targeted, daily regimen. Hyaluronic acid is a popular injectable filler that dermatologists use to minimize the appearance of wrinkles. A skilled doctor can contour the face, change nose shape, reduce the visibility of eye bags, give the face a “liquid face lift” — results that used to be possible only with surgery. But the results are temporary, don’t improve your skin’s cells, and most fillers don’t work in a cream. Hyaluronic acid’s molecules are far larger than what can penetrate the skin; in a cream, hyaluronic acid sits on the skin’s surface and acts mainly as a moisturizer. For active therapy with cellular, longer-term impact, try ingredients proven to penetrate the skin enough to be effective such as mandelic acid (in Superskin Toners), unbuffered glycolic acid, kinetin growth factor and the fatty acids in virgin coconut oil (in Re-Everything products). vmvhypoallergenics.com | skintelligencenter.com
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VMV I nS K I N |7
October is
ECZEMA 101
AWARENESS MONTH
It’s one of the most common terms to get tossed around in “sensitive” circles. What is eczema, really, and what can you do about it? We asked a leading atopic dermatitis expert to break it down.
learn about eczema at: skintelligencenter. com!
What skincare would you recommend to someone undergoing chemotherapy?
Q: What is eczema? A: Eczema is a general term for atopic dermatitis or
Each cancer and each treatment is different for each patient. But there are some best practices recommended for the skins of most patients undergoing chemotherapy.
inflammation in the upper dermis of the skin that results in edema (swelling from fluid retention). The fluid moves upwards to the epidermis (the skin’s topmost layer), collects in between cells and eventually becomes fluidfilled vesicles that show on the skin’s surface as bubbles. These enlarge, become blisters then dry up and crust over. Redness is common, too, and indicates an active inflammation from the barrier defect inherent to atopic dermatitis and/or an offending product with an allergen, from a secondary infection, or from dry, crusty skin. Removing the cause removes the inflammation and reduces the redness. Food can contribute to redness. Scratch testing can help but positive results do not always correlate with the eczema flare-ups.
Q: What causes eczema? A: The most common causes of eczema are: a. Contact dermatitis from cosmetics and other products, clothing, even fragrance in air coming into contact with the surface of the skin. b. Atopic dermatitis: Atopy means an inherited allergy. It is atopic dermatitis when the target organ is the skin; rhinitis if the target is the nasal passage; bronchial asthma if the target is the bronchial passages (the lungs). Because atopic dermatitis is hereditary, it often starts in infancy or early childhood. Contact dermatitis, on the other hand, tends to show when the child is already playing and touching things, then becomes more common in adults as we are more exposed to potential allergens. c. Nummular eczema is caused by a combination of factors including atopic skin with bacterial contamination, insect bites, friction, and/or allergic contact dermatitis. This makes the skin hyperactive, causing the large circular patches that characterize nummular eczema. d. Seborrheic dermatitis or skin dandruff of the scalp or face often starts as scales. If irritated or secondarily infected, they can become eczematous.
Q: How to treat the itch? A: For emergencies or bad flare-ups, dermatologists will
usually prescribe steroids of moderate to high potency in
“dew” GOOD
ECZEMA
ate n o d we all , r e b cto tion of ct O l l A a por rodu p to ” k n i “p rchases cer pu st can breaesearch. r
In General... SELECT CAREFULLY... Products without tar, dyes and parabens. Life with eczema: motherhood, love, pets, beaches, adventure, and lizards (in the wild, not on skin).
Photosensitivity... UV + INDOOR LIGHT PROTECTION
“I had eczema at 19. It got so bad all over my body and face that I lost my volleyball scholarship — I couldn’t play. People stared at me with that “ew, are you contagious” look. I went to 6 doctors before I finally felt sympathy and care from the 7th. I couldn’t afford patch testing so she worked closely with me and I followed everything she said strictly. She told me to stop: 1) Shellfish; 2) Citrus; 3) Poultry; 4) Processed, fast and junk food; 5) Drinks with color; 6) MSG; 7) Foods with chili or pepper; 8) Dark or bright-colored clothing; 9) Pants; 10) Trinkets and accessories; 11) Rubber slippers; 12) Soap. And more that I can’t remember now. She taught me how to re-introduce these things slowly, week by week, to try to pinpoint the culprits. She took care of me throughout the entire process to heal the oozing wounds. I was prescribed virgin coconut oil and monolaurin pellets to drink, and was introduced to VMV (I still use their products): Essence Superwash Hair & Body Shampoo, Id Monolaurin Gel and Fawn & Launder Hypoallergenic Laundry Shampoo. That’s me in the photos now. I am really, really happy that I met her and VMV as I now have clear skin and am back to being active!” - Adrianne
a cream base for acute eczemas, and in an ointment base for chronic eczemas. Remember, however, that steroids are not meant for long-term use. A good moisturizer should then be applied to soften the dry skin that follows as eczema moves into a subacute to chronic phase. I like virgin coconut oil (VCO) applied at any phase of eczematous skin because it is soothing, moisturizing, a gentle yet potent antiseptic of most secondary bacterial, fungal continued on page 16
Many chemotherapy drugs make the skin more photosensitive to the sun and even to indoor lights. Daily protection is important both indoors and outdoors. Because patients’ skins can become very sensitive, choose physical (inorganic) sunscreens — zinc oxide and titanium dioxide — over chemical (organic sunscreens). Armada Baby 50+ and Armada Post-Procedure 50+ double as physical barriers against contaminants and irritants.
Dryness & Infection... SOOTHING, DISINFECTING MOISTURE Very dry skin can be common to chemotherapy patients. Virgin coconut oil (VCO) is an excellent choice because its fatty acids are native to skin (VCO replaces lost lipids while preventing water loss and providing vital barrier repair). Another concern is immunosuppression. VCO’s natural antimicrobial properties can help prevent infection. A further risk for patients lying down or sitting for extended periods: bed ulcers which can lead to serious complications. Regular gentle massages with VCO provide soothing, deep moisturization, help with circulation and prevent and treat bed ulcers.
Hair, Gums, Cleansing... THINK NON-IRRITATING + PROTECTIVE That tar, paraben and dye-free thing? That goes for everything: shampoo, conditioner, cleanser, body wash, makeup...everything. Avoid other allergens which can can be an additional discomfort if they trigger nausea, another possible side effect of chemotherapy. Look for non-allergenic antimicrobial action, too. Coconut-derived monolaurin in a toothpaste provides gentle antiseptic action that can suppressed and develop mouth sores and gum bleeding.
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fall 2014
VMV I nS K I N |9
axisartistry LIPS:
Scantily clad...
As seen at Opening Ceremony and Vivienne Westwood, just a quick swipe of a bright blush gives skin a lit-from-within glow. To get the look, try Skin Bloom Blush in Georgia — which has green tea and rice phytic acid for antioxidant protection, too.
Add oomph to your pucker by playing with texture and shine! Create dimension by centrally layering a slightly more pink tint over a traditional nude lip. We love the splendidly silky buff shade “Dishabille” complimented by “Bittersweet” — both from the Subtle Shine Lipstick family. ***Tip: Prep your pout by applying Skintangible BBBB (BB But Better!) Cream Skin-Refining Non-Makeup SPF 30 over lips to neutralize their natural flush.
PURPLE Peepers Begin by sweeping the purple base color in Two True Hues Eyeshadow Duo “Morning After”
onto the entire lid. Continue to build intensity by contouring more of the same shade into the
Instantly expand your lip color options by mixing loose pigments with BooBoo Balm, as shared by Cosmopolitan’s beauty & fashion editor Carly Cardellino.
crease of your lid (where the skin folds when your eye is open) and above lash line. Use the dark chocolate shade to rim the upper lash line using the angled Skintelligent Beauty Eye . For more drama, use the same liner technique on bottom lash line, too! To finish, apply two generous coats of Ooh-
by JESS ARNAUDIN
La-Lash! Mascara on top and bottom lashes.
WINTRY Flush Flushed cheeks bestow an instantly youthful radiance. Just a quick swipe of a bright blush gives skin a lit-from-within glow. This look calls for sultry, not schoolgirl. Skin Bloom Blush in “Smauve,” a universally flattering orchid, is the epitome of cool sensuality. Add strategic highlighting (see Highlighting 101 on page 12) and you’ll be glowing all season long.
As brooding as late September skies, purple smoky eyes are right on trend for fall. Less literal than standard charcoal (and infinitely more versatile!) — amethyst adds mystique without seeming overdone. Add a warm chocolate contour, flushing cheeks and blushing nude lip and you’ve got one of the most iconic siren looks ever: the too-cool smoulder.
Virgin coconut oil, antioxidants plus a sheer, but buildable formula that lets skin’s natural bloom show through has made our Skin Bloom Blush a consistent choice for top beauty editors.
COLD
SMOULDER
Highlight How-To
BRIGHT IDEAS
Watch how this simple trick-of-thelight illuminates your entire
Start by mixing equal parts organic virgin coconut oil Know-It-Oil and Skin Bloom Blush in the dye-free highlighter Luminous.
Use the back of your hand as a palette for ease of application. This light-reflecting
Speak Boldly
blend not only smells delicious, but also
From orange to red, pink
imparts a natural, healthy sheen when warmed into the skin.
and brown, bold lips
Apply liberally down the bridge of your
made an indelible mark
MA K EUP
nose, over eyelids (specifically beneath
on runways. Matte had
HACK
brow bone), along upper lip (cupid’s bow), and cheekbones.
a strong showing, but
Virgin coconut oil + blush, bronzing or highlighting powder = custom color that looks from-within natural and lasts all day. Gives you moisturizing,
Voilà: illumination that looks like it’s glowing from within you — virgin coconut oil’s fatty acids are native to skin so it absorbs beautifully — and lasts all day, all night!
it’s the gleaming glosses that got us melting. To get this “dew”licious trend, load up on clear
aging perks, too!
wear-with-anything
axisartistry
Grandma Minnie’s BooBoo Balm (and reap countless lip-smoothing
Don’t skip the cleanser but do start with a makeup remover — especially if you’ve got thick makeup on — for cleaner skin without over-cleansing or scrubbing.
‘Smack’ Lip Gloss. With antioxidant green tea and virgin coconut oil, this hue’s brilliant in more
LIGHT THE WAY: EXFOLIATE! SOMETIMES THINGS CAN GET A LITTLE DULL. REGULAR EXFOLIATION STIMULATES THE RENEWAL OF EPIDERMAL CELLS & KEEPS SKIN RADIANT. SEE PAGE 19 FOR TIPS!
by JESS ARNAUDIN 12 | V M V I n S K I N
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The Big Fats Question:
skinside-out health
What to eat? Keep a bottle of virgin coconut oil on both kitchen and bathroom counters. This less calories than other edible oils and mind and body.
a l c o h o l 101 Should I avoid alcohol in skin care?
MY BEAUTY-FULL KITCHEN Skin health begins in the kitchen. You already know junk food is appropriately named but do you know why exactly fats and antioxidants are so important, which fats you should be eating, and why getting antioxidant supplements might be useless? We plied our founding dermatologist-dermatopathologist — one of the leading experts on virgin coconut oil and the relationship between skin and inflammation — for information and got a pantry full of answers!
YOUR CELL WALL IS A S O P H I S T I C AT E D “ M A C H I N E ” T H AT C O M M U N I C AT E S A L L THE SIGNALS BETWEEN C E L L S, O R G A N S, N E R V E S, TISSUES — IT’S HOW YOUR ENTIRE SYSTEM F U N C T I O N S. C E L L WA L L S — AS WELL AS OTHER V I TA L P A R T S O F T H E C E L L S, H O R M O N E S A N D TISSUES — ARE MADE U P O F L I P I D S , A K A F AT S . Lipids are the basic units that become the lipid bi-layer of each and every cell wall of the body, including the skin’s. They’re highly vulnerable to oxidation and environmental damage. To keep them healthy, think: balance and anti-inflammatory.
What’s Your SAT Score?
quick energy. Then you need lots of anti that are more stable and that do not oxidize readily — unhealthy linked to several skin problems plus obesity, depression, heart diseases and cancer. At the cell wall, saturated polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) balance (a 1:2 ratio), they create to work at their optimal level. So you do need some PUFAs for because PUFAs oxidize easily and tend to have trans fats. And you certainly need saturated fatty acids that, as it turns out, are super good for you because they’re far more stable, much less
Fiendish Fats
SATURATED FAT, THAT IS! Fats are vital for the body, skin and brain. You need the right balance of fatty acids that make up the lipid bi-layer of your cells (your most basic building blocks).
NIX THE 6 & THE “IC” Avoid linoleIC (think “ick” and omega-6 (think “sick”) fats like soybean, cottonseed, corn oil and shortening. They are pro-
You want just the right amount of fatty acids — yup, you need some
balancing act described above is
example, and for the necessary oxidation that your body uses for
PUFAs are so ubiquitous (they’re present in most processed foods).
They’re so common that the ratio of omega-6 to people in developed markets is as skewed as 1:17 — remember, the ideal is 1:2; higher than 1:4 is considered problematic. The ratio is worse in people who eat junk food, donuts, baked goods, chips and other pre-packaged snacks regularly (once a week or more). HYDROGENATED ANYTHING Hydrogenation produces trans fats, another reason why unsaturated fats are a problem. PUFAs need hydrogenation to prevent rotting (some saturated oils like virgin coconut oil are self preserving and don’t need hydrogenation to keep). “Zero trans fats” isn’t a green light either; many FDA bodies allow this claim when a product contains less than 0.5 grams of trans fats. But eating even a little over 2 grams of trans fats is already considered a real problem — that’s just about 4 servings of 0.5 grams and we usually eat far, far more than that every day. LONG CHAIN, SHORTER LIFE Avoid long-chain oils (soybean, corn and many vegetable oils) as they impede necessary, quickenergy oxidation (remember, this is different from damaging oxidation). Canola is a double
a very long carbon-chain oil (rapeseed) and has trans fats. SKIN REPERCUSSIONS food and drinks) are linked to many skin problems like acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and aging. Sallowness in the skin can be due to by-products from the breaking down of lipids. For example, lipofuscin is a yellowbrown granular pigment that is believed to be a by-product of the oxidation of PUFAs (they oxidize very easily, releasing these by-products readily). A poor diet causes skin problems and affects vibrancy. Oxidizers cellular health — cells become sluggish and don’t shed off and replenish as well as they should. The skin ceases to function properly and appears dull.
Friendly Fats CHEW THIS FAT: LINOLENIC ACID & OMEGA-3 Up your intake of linoleNIC (think seafood, vegetables and nuts eicosanoids. continued on page 16
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The short answer is: generally, no. Non-allergenic alcohols in low concentrations are fine, and frequently are good for you. The other short answer is: you may not know what to avoid! Many ingredients named “alcohol” aren’t actually alcohols, and other ingredients not called “alcohol” are precisely that. What Is an “Alcohol?” If you answered a liquid that dries out the skin, you’d be more wrong than right. “Alcohol” is a categorization of a substance based on its atoms. There are many alcohols that aren’t drying, and many aren’t even liquid. Some alcohols that we don’t think of as alcohols are sperm oil, jojoba, rapeseed, mustard, and tallow. Most alcohols are waxes (and waxes aren’t drying) from plants and beeswax. Stearyl alcohol and cetyl stearyl (also called cetearyl alcohol) are both emulsifying waxes that creams need for oil- and water-based ingredients to mix. Still other alcohols are beneficial (moisturizing!) to skin, like those from coconut and palm oils. So what is alcohol? All alcohols are derived from hydrocarbons in plants, animals, beeswax, or synthetic sources. Hydrocarbons are made up of carbon (C) and hydrogen (H) atoms. When one or more of the H atoms is/are replaced by a hydroxyl group (OH), the hydrocarbon becomes an alcohol. There are many alcohols depending on the radical attached to the OH. Most fatty alcohols in nature exist as waxes — esters with fatty acids and fatty alcohols — and are solids at room temperature. Only a few are the liquid “alcohols” we think of. “Good” vs. “Bad” Alcohols Generally, short-chain fatty alcohols are considered eye irritants, while long-chain alcohols are not. Ethyl alcohol is from molasses and isn’t known to cause irritations. Isopropyl alcohol is “good” in that it is not an allergen, is antiseptic and is accepted for cosmetics. Stearyl and cetearyl alcohol are waxes needed by many formulations to mix and, based on the latest publication of common allergens, are not known to irritate skin. The medical literature shows
E AT RIGHT
BEAUTY FOOD Great for skin, brain, heart and body: small, oily fish like sardines! They’re among the world’s healthiest foods. One of the most concentrated sources of omega-3s, just a 4-ounce serving gives you about 1.4 grams of this incredibly healthy oil — almost the total daily recommended intake for men (1.6 grams) and above it for women (1.1 grams). They’re loaded with anti-inflammatories and are excellent sources of vitamin B12, vitamin D, calcium and more good things! Just 2-3 small fish have about 7 grams of protein (almost like a steak, if you can believe it). They tend to have virtually no mercury and less toxins in general, too. Choose those bottled in virgin olive oil instead of corn oil. If you have halogen acne around the mouth or on the chin or jaw, bottled may have less iodides and sodium, too. Ideally, the ingredients should read: sardines, olive oil. Period. For more #skinsideouthealth: follow us on Tumblr and Instagram/vmvhypoallergenics!
very rare reactions to these alcohols — only two, in our research, and in one of these, impurities in the cetyl alcohol were considered more likely to have caused the patient’s dermatitis. Benzyl alcohol is widely used in cosmetics but, being related to fragrance, is an allergen. Cinnamic alcohol is a fragrance and an allergen. Lanolin, a fatty substance from sheep’s wool, is an allergen — far from being drying, lanolin is a common base in ointments. These three alcohols are accepted for use in cosmetics but not in VMV products due to their being published allergens. Methyl alcohol (“wood alcohol”) is derived from methanol. Used for industrial and automotive purposes, it is poisonous on the skin and is not approved for cosmetic applications. If They’re Mostly Fatty, even Moisturizing, and Often Beneficial, Why Are People Scared of Alcohol? First, they may not be aware of what “alcohol” is. Second, when people express concerns over alcohol they might be thinking of ethyl and isopropyl alcohol, the liquid, drying alcohols used in most hospitals and laboratories as antiseptics. But even these alcohols are accepted as safe for cosmetic purposes and do provide benefits such as killing dangerous microbes. What’s more important is the percentage of these alcohols in a product. The higher the concentration, the more drying on the skin. Most astringents that are drying contain 85-90% alcohol (VMV Toners and Id Monolaurin Gel contain between 25% and 56%). In many countries, hand sanitizers must contain at least 70% alcohol. Because the antimicrobial action of our Kid Gloves Hand Sanitizer is primarily provided by monolaurin, we can limit its alcohol content to 38% (why it’s less drying than most). These alcohols are the most effective medium for certain product types. They are accepted for use continued on page 16
“ECZEMA 101” (continued from page 12)
“THE BIG FATS QUESTION” (continued from page 14)
and even viral invaders which often worsen eczema and especially its itchiness. VCO is ideal for barrier repair and replaces the fatty acids that make up the skin’s cell walls that are destroyed with inflammation. VCO is especially soothing when stored in the refrigerator and spread on as the cold white butter that it becomes when cold, or when used as a cold compress on eczematous skin.
MEDIUM CHAIN, LONGER LIFE
All the above normalizes eczema, lessens inflammation, and helps remove dried-up crust, making the skin much less itchy.
EAT YOUR ANTIOXIDANTS, DON’T POP ‘EM IN A PILL
the crust as it forms (the crust makes the skin dry, hard and itchy). Later, keep applying the oil to help occlude the skin, giving it a secondary barrier against water loss which is important in keeping the skin moisturized. Avoid harsh soaps, hot water, frequent washing, using products with drying alcohol and products with allergens, especially perfumes, dyes, preservatives or any other allergen identified by patch testing.
Q: What do you recommend to your patients? A: A very gentle cleanser for the face, a mild
soap for the body. The fewer products the better so as to not further irritate inflamed skin and to more readily identify the cause of a flare-up. I prefer products that are seriously hypoallergenic in the way I define it – meaning none of the top allergens identified by dermatologists who do lots of patch testing and publish their findings. I give prescription drugs mostly for a secondary infection that has already spread and for markedly inflamed eczema. I might use immune-modulating topical medications and other anti-allergy drugs when the eczema is generalized or when it is continually recurrent despite the tips and home practices explained above. When the itching is severe, I give antihistamines or centrally-acting medicines that help minimize the brain-skin connection.
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wait...
Make Antioxidants the Top of Your Food Pyramid There are still no studies showing the positive effects of antioxidant supplements. Precisely because of their action, antioxidants tend to react to heat, light, humidity, and cooking, and break down in processing. Eat them in as natural a state as possible, close to the source, such as in the freshest fruits and vegetables, un- or less-processed grains, etc. Unlike with supplements, there are several evidence-based studies
I’m allergic to nuts. Can I use virgin coconut oil? The short answer is almost certainly, yes...
Make It Simple: What Do I Eat? 3 TIPS: 1) Choose non-hydrogenated, saturated, medium-chain oils like virgin coconut oil (because omega-6-rich PUFAs are so common, you’re probably getting more of them than you need even if you’re avoiding them); 2) Eat more seafood, nuts and vegetables to increase your linolenic and antioxidants, but not from supplements — eat more fresh fruits and vegetables.
“Aw, Nuts! Wait...” (continued from page 17) (ACAAI) states: “While allergic reactions to coconut have been documented, most people who are allergic to tree nuts can safely eat coconut.”2 Dr. Sicherer writes “Coconut allergy appears rare, and uncommon even among those with tree-nut allergies. In a national registry of 5,149 people with peanut or tree-nut allergies, only four self-reported an allergy to coconut. And a more recent study of 40 children with positive tests or known allergy to peanuts or tree nuts showed no increased risks for having positive tests or allergy to coconut. Your allergist would consider your personal allergy history in deciding whether to add coconut to your diet or to perform any testing. However, be aware that tests are often positive to coconut in people who could actually tolerate it, so a physician-supervised feeding test may be necessary for a conclusive answer.”1 The bottom line? If you’re allergic to tree nuts, there’s a good chance you can eat coconut and an even better chance you can use virgin coconut oil on your skin. Work with your allergist and dermatologist and, for topical usage, get a patch test that includes pure VCO.
“Alcohol 101” (continued from page 15) in cosmetics, are not allergens, and their tendency to dry out the skin can easily be lessened by lower concentrations. More nefarious concerns can be allayed as well. There is no evidence of fatty alcohols being carcinogenic, mutagenic, or causing reproductive toxicity or infertility. Fatty alcohols are effectively eliminated from the body when exposed, limiting the possibility of retention or bioaccumulation. The next time you insist on “alcohol-free,” keep in mind that you’re probably still getting some alcohols that you don’t recognize, or could be missing out on highly beneficial, even moisturizing ingredients. Your best bet if your skin is sensitive? Ask your doctor for a patch test so you can learn exactly what you need to avoid.
. . . I F Y O U C H O O S E A P U R E , F I R S T- A N D - C O L D P R E S S E D V I R G I N C O C O N U T O I L ( V C O ) that has not
been exposed to allergens during processing, handling 1 Allergic Living magazine: http://allergicliving.com/2013/06/12/are-coconuts-safe-with-tree-nut-allergy/ 2 The American College of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology (ACAAI): http://www.acaai.org/allergist/allergies/Types/food-allergies/types/Pages/tree-nut-allergy.aspx
Q: How to help very dry skin from eczema? A: Early on, apply the oil/greases to soften
AW,NUTS!
Virgin coconut oil’s medium-chain fatty acids make it rapidly absorbed for quick energy. It has fewer calories per cup than any other edible oil and because it’s tasty, you need less of it in recipes, so it’s less likely to contribute to obesity. Applied on the skin, VCO has a whole range of
or storage. Despite its name, the coconut is not a tree nut. Botanically, it is a drupe. Echoing multiple dermatological reviews, including our own, Dr. Scott Sicherer in Allergic Living magazine writes “When
it comes to coconut oil, there is almost no medical literature on allergic reactions to it.”1 Practically all VCOs are non-allergenic but do avoid those that are mixed, heated or stored in vats used for other oils or allergens (such as lavender, ylang-ylang, rose, etc.) There are allergies reported to contaminants in the processing of less pure oil and Refined Bleached Deodorized copra oil (RBD should not be used topically by those with sensitive skins). The first-coldpressed VCO in Know-It-Oil, Oil’s Well and other VMV products is very simply extracted without heat or additives, organically, and quickly after the nut is taken
None of our products contain peanuts or tree nuts.
from the tree. This is important for the purity of the oil and to avoid allergens. Our VCO is so clinicallyvalidated and well tolerated that it has randomized, double-blind trials (the gold standard of clinical studies) on its gentleness, tolerability and efficacy for atopic skin diseases (some of the most sensitive and reactive) published in Dermatitis (the journal of the American Contact Dermatitis Society) and the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. Several more studies on our VCO have been published in and presented at dermatology conventions around the world. In terms of eating coconut, you should be fine, too,
There are almost no reactions to pure coconut oil in medical literature...casual reports seem to be to contaminants in the processing of less pure oils, not to pure coconut oil.
but work closely with your allergist because cases of sensitivity vary from individual to individual. The American College of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology continued on page 16
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V M V I n S K I N | 17
*Efficacy and Safety on Facial Aging of A Cosmetic System (with Kinetin, Glycolic Acid, Virgin Coconut Oil, and two Antioxidants) vs. A Drug (with 0.05% Retinoic acid): A Three-month Double-Blind Randomized Crossover Trial
In a double-blind, randomized clinical trial, Re-Everything’s lessening of deep nasolabial lines was comparable to prescription retinoic acid but Re-Everything had superior results on the reduction of unwanted pigmentation, increased sebum and hydration, and decreased trans-epidermal water loss, with less side effects than retinoic acid.*
01
04
WHAT IS EXFOLIATION?
HOW OFTEN TO EXFOLIATE
03 02
THE BAD
05
WHAT TO AVOID?
THE GOOD
“facial @VMV! I’ve never heard so many
Our Anti-Aging Cosmeceutical Facial. Most of our facials include our clinically-published virgin coconut oil which, among
bunch!) universally love a place.” - editor, leading fashion magazine
skin’s barrier and helps replace lipids lost to exfoliation.
Perfect Polish TOP 5 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT EXFOLIATION
Too much of a good thing can be a problem. Learn the nitty gritty details of exfoliation and soon you’ll be scrubbing your way to brighter, firmer skin. 18 | V M V I n S K I N
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In addition to the cellular rejuvenation and barrier repair provided by the kinetin and virgin coconut oil, it’s the microscopic exfoliation from unbuffered (undiluted) glycolic acid that makes our antiaging Re-Everything line so effective.
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