Acknowledgments
The fifth edition of The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Fashion was a major undertaking. The editorial team at Bloomsbury Publishing and reviewers suggested a major pivot from historic dress terms to a more current and diverse fashion vocabulary that is in use throughout the fashion industry today.
Though terminology for this edition has been drastically edited, the Dictionary of Fashion remains indebted to the contributions of Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta and Phyllis G. Tortora, who amassed an incredibly comprehensive collection of historic and current fashion terms for the past four editions. The foundation they created continues to provide structure for this current edition. In order to ensure that terminology is relatively consistent in definition across the Bloomsbury library, many definitions have been updated or added directly from other Bloomsbury titles. I thank those authors for their research.
A big thank you to the Bloomsbury team: Emily Samulski, acquisitions editor; Joseph Miranda, editor; and Edie Weinberg, art development editor. Their sage advice and encouragement were much appreciated as the parameters and search for new terminology and the art program evolved.
Bina Abling created the illustrations that appeared in the first four editions of The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Fashion. This new edition includes illustrations from Fairchild Books’ Technical Sourcebook for Fashion Designers, Fourth Edition and Beyond Design, Fourth Edition. New illustrations were rendered for Fairchild Books by Graphic World, Inc.
Finally, Sandra Keiser would like to thank her family and friends for their support and encouragement as she battled with looming deadlines and word count goals during the isolation of the pandemic. We hope that the efforts of this team will be of value.
The publisher wishes to gratefully acknowledge and thank the editorial team involved in the publication of this book:
Acquisitions Editor: Emily Samulski
Development Manager: Joseph Miranda
Editorial Assistant: Jenna Lefkowitz
Art Development Editor: Edie Weinberg
In-House Designer: Louise Dugdale
Production Manager: Ken Bruce
Project Manager: Rebecca Willford
AATCC Acronym for American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.
abandoned cart A digital transaction where a consumer puts items in their shopping cart as though they were ready to buy, but never completes the transaction.
abrasion Rubbing of a material against itself or another surface.
absorption 1. The taking up of moisture by a textile fiber, which adds comfort to the wearing of apparel. The absorption and transport properties of fabrics are critical to the success of wet processes such as dyeing, printing, and finishing. This characteristic also impacts the performance of sports clothes, active sportswear, disposable hygiene materials, and medical products. During wear, moisture retention in clothing has been found to be the most significant factor contributing to discomfort. 2. The passing of light into a surface, as in the case of fabrics that are dark or dull.
absorption costing A method for charging a percentage of operating expenses to each garment for costing purposes.
abstract print A pattern or motif not related to natural or real objects. May emphasize line, color, or geometric forms.
abstracting The process of identifying underlying similarities or differences in individual elements and interrelationships across products and design collections. academic costume Outfits consisting of caps, called mortarboards, gowns, and hoods traditionally worn at commencement exercises or other ceremonial occasions by students and faculty. American academic costume was designed by Gardner Cottrell Leonard and adopted by the American Intercollegiate Code of 1894. The code states the style of cap, gown, and hood to be worn by
persons with bachelor’s, master’s, and doctoral degrees along with the colors to be used on the hood.
acceptable quality limit (AQL) The total amount of defects allowed for an inspection sample to be accepted.
accessories Extraneous items that complement an outfit, such as shoes, jewelry, hats, and bags.
accordion bag Bag made like an expandable filing envelope that is narrow at the top and pleated at sides and bottom. Usually made with a handle and frequently with a zipper compartment in the center. Der. From resemblance to pleats on the musical instrument of this name.
accordion pleats A series of permanent folds of equal width with alternating raised and recessed folds, named for their resemblance to the folds of the musical instrument called an accordion.
costume accordion pleats
acetate (as’-uh-tayt) A generic fiber category for synthetic fibers that are chemical variants of cellulose and are manufactured from cellulose materials, such as wood chips. Acetate fibers and fabrics have a crisp hand and high luster.
achromatic A term that describes neutral colors that have no hue: black, white, and gray.
acid wash A wash process that uses bleach or bleachsoaked stones to produce a faded or frosted effect on dyed fabrics. Frequently used on denim jeans.
mortarboard
academic
acquisition When company A purchases company B and assumes ownership of company B’s assets and liability for all of company B’s debts.
acrylic A generic fiber category made from polymers of acrylic acid. The resulting fiber, yarn, or fabric has a soft, wool-like hand, good wrinkle resistance, and washes and dries quickly. The fiber has a tendency to pill.
acting vertical A strategy that seeks to maximize collaboration and sharing of information throughout the supply chain, including internal collaboration that breaks down the barriers between functions, external collaboration with manufacturers and suppliers, and ongoing collaboration with consumers in order to reap the rewards of a continuous conversation. This is all implemented without necessitating central ownership of the supply chain partners.
action back The extra fullness incorporated into the back of a jacket, coat, or dress, in the form of pleats or the insertion of a stretch fabric, to permit freedom of movement.
additive color-mixing system A system that explains how colored light is mixed. It is used in theater lighting, on television screens, and on computer monitors. When using the additive mixing system to mix colored light, red, green, and blue or blue-violet are the primaries; yellow, magenta, and cyan are the secondaries. When all three of the additive primaries are mixed, we see white. The light wheel illustrates the primary and secondary colors in the additive mixing system.
adjustable adj. Indicates that a garment can be modified to change aspects such as fit, appearance, and size.
adjustments Reductions in the retailer’s cost for goods which may be the result of merchandise being returned to the manufacturer or the result of problems with the merchandise.
advertising Paid communication that links a sponsor to a message. They can be presented to the public in television, magazines, radio, billboards, mailers, and social media.
advertising manager A position responsible for the advertising program of a fashion brand across multiple media outlets, including social media, television, print, and product placement. The advertising manager leads his or her team in developing the brand/seasonal ad concept, hiring of talent, and negotiating placement, all while staying within their budget parameters. They are responsible for the assessment of each season’s campaign.
aerobic wear (uh-roh′-bik) Headbands, leotards, tights, and leg warmers worn for aerobic dancing. Also called workout suit, exercise suit
activewear/active sportswear Any of a wide variety of apparel items designed to be worn for active sports. Not to be confused with official athletic uniforms worn by professional athletes, although such uniforms may serve as the inspiration for the design of some activewear. Many consumers wear activewear apparel not only for sports but also as casual dress.
activist brand A brand archetype that works to promote, impede, or direct social issues in order to live their values and connect with like-minded consumers.
activity-based costing A method for charging operating expenses to each garment by the number and amount of services used (for costing purposes).
adaptation Designs that have all the dominant features of the styles that inspired them but do not claim to be exact copies.
adaptive clothing Garments and accessories designed for people with physical disabilities, the elderly, and the infirm who may experience difficulties dressing themselves due to an inability to manipulate closures or a lack of full range of motion required for self-dressing.
aesthetic design The perceived beauty of a design evaluated by the elements and principles of design. In apparel, aesthetic design may be evaluated based on both aesthetics and function.
aesthetic obsolescence The process of becoming outdated because an aesthetic or style is no longer desired.
aesthetic properties/characteristics 1. Characteristics of textiles that convey meaning to the consumer through their expression in apparel products by means of drape and hand, luster, surface interest, and other properties. 2. The overall attractiveness of the materials, styling, and design of a garment in relation to its intended use.
Afghan jacket/vest A sheep- or goatskin jacket or vest made to be worn with the fleece side in and the leather side out. The inside fleece forms a shaggy border along the edges.
African print A general term used to describe bold geometric designs inspired by traditional African patterns; depending on where on the continent they were inspired, they may be carried out in browns, blacks, and whites or combinations of bright saturated colors.
afro 1. A hairstyle in which tightly curled hair is worn in a full, evenly rounded shape. 2. A prefix meaning derived from Africa.
ageism Stereotyping and discrimination based on differences in age.
agent Person authorized to act on your behalf to sell your brand’s garments or to coordinate offshore sourcing.
aggregated The term for point-of-sale (POS) data when figures on individual products or stock-keeping units (SKUs) are summarized and combined by categories.
agile manufacturing The use of innovative manufacturing technologies to form an integrated, seamless exchange of information that links retailers and suppliers to the manufacturing facility, which allows product developers to be more flexible and faster in responding to consumer demands. Also called flexible manufacturing
Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) An international agreement that eliminated quotas for the importation of apparel products in 2005.
Aid to Artisans A US organization that helps artisans to develop their products locally and market them worldwide.
air malls Retail stores in airports.
A-line Apparel styled close and narrow through the bodice at the shoulders or waist and flaring gently away from the body to the hem in a line resembling the letter A. Introduced in 1955 by Paris couturier Christian Dior. Used to describing a wide variety of apparel with this shape, including coats, dresses, jumpers, and skirts
alphanumeric sizes Sizing nomenclature that designates sizes by alphabetical classification followed by the numeric sizes that are incorporated into each of the alpha sizes, e.g., small (4–6), medium (8–10).
ambiance The atmosphere encountered when entering a store.
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) A nonprofit organization that develops and publishes voluntary standardized test methods for international use.
amulet An object believed to provide good luck and protection to its owner.
analogous Describes color harmonies that utilize colors positioned next to each other on the color wheel.
anchor A design from a previous season reworked in a different color of fabric.
anchor store A large store, usually a department store or mass merchant, frequently located at the end of a mall, important for drawing consumer traffic to the mall.
androgynous (an-droj′-eh-nus) adj. Possessing both male and female characteristics.
angel sleeve Any type of long, flowing sleeve. May fit smoothly into the armhole or be gathered. Sometimes split up outer arm to shoulder like a hanging sleeve.
all-in-one facing A facing that accommodates more than one garment area, i.e., neckline and armhole, or neckline and front edge.
allover layout See random layout
allover print A print that covers the entire surface of the fabric from selvage to selvage in a repeat design.
all-weather coat Waterproofed or water-repellent coat, sometimes made with zip-in lining to adapt to various temperatures.
alpaca Soft, fine hair from the alpaca goat.
angel sleeves
angora Fine light hair combed from the angora rabbit. animal print Design printed on fabric to imitate the skin or fur of animals.
anime A style reflecting Japanese cartoons featuring characters that are androgynous in appearance with large eyes, brightly colored streaked hair, and punk-style clothing.
ankle sock/anklet A short sock reaching only to the ankle.
Annie Hall Describing a style that was popularized by Diane Keaton in the Woody Allen film Annie Hall. It is
A-line skirt
characterized by oversized garments including baggy pants or full skirts, men’s shirts and vests, and wearing clothes in a purposefully mismatched fashion.
anomalies In information analysis, data that do not fit expectations.
anorak (an′-nah-rack) Hip-length, waterproof, hooded jacket that traditionally pulled over the head. Generally, it has a drawstring hem and is sometimes lined with fur. Today the term is used somewhat interchangeably with the term “parka” (see parka), which has a zip front and drawstring hem, is insulated with down or fiberfill, and is worn for winter sports.
anthropometric data Data based on the scientific study of the measurements and proportions of the human body for the purpose of comparison and classification.
Anti-Fashion Manifesto A thought-provoking treatise by trend forecaster Li Edelkoort, published in 2015. It warns that the fashion system has reached a breaking point: it identifies and explains how the status quo in marketing and advertising, education, materials consumption, manufacturing, retailing, designer responsibilities, fashion shows, the press, and consumer behavior is no longer sustainable.
antimicrobial Describes compounds spun into fibers that break down the cells of mold, mildew, and fungicausing microbes which can grow in the moisture of bedding and other textiles close to the skin.
antitrust rules In the United States, a collection of federal and state government laws that regulate the conduct and organization of business corporations. They are intended to promote competition for the benefit of consumers.
Anti-waste and Circular Economy Bill A bill passed in France in 2020 that requires producers, importers, and distributors, including online firms, to donate unsold nonfood goods except those that pose a health or safety risk. In addition, it aims for all plastic to be recyclable by 2025, and a 50 percent reduction in the use of single-use plastic bottles in the next decade.
APAC An acronym used to refer to Asia Pacific countries. It is generally used to describe countries in East and South Asia, Southeast Asia, and Oceania.
aperture The opening on a spectrophotometer (see spectrophotometer) that determines the size of the sample being measured. It is preferable to use the largest viewing area possible to minimize the influence of uneven dyeing. Samples measured with small viewing apertures should be measured in several locations on the same piece of fabric.
apex The highest point on the bust shape on each side of the body; it corresponds roughly to where the nipple is. Bust darts point toward the apex and end just short of it. Also called bust point
apparel See dress
apparel contractor A firm whose sole function is to supply sewing services to the apparel industry. Also called outside shop
apparel industry The suppliers, apparel product developers, manufacturers, and vendors engaged in the production of ready-to-wear clothing for men, women, and children. Also called garment trade, needle trade, rag business
apparel jobber A firm that handles the designing, planning, and purchasing of materials and usually the cutting, selling, and shipping of apparel, but not the actual garment sewing.
apparel manufacturer A firm that is primarily engaged in the cutting and sewing of garments.
apparel price ranges Prices in the apparel industry may be designated as falling into one of the following categories that form a continuum of prices from low to high: discount, mass market, moderate, better, contemporary, bridge, and designer.
apparel product developer A position that is responsible for oversight of calendar timelines, sketch/prototype stages, fit reviews, product specifications, product
Annie Hall look 1978
anorak
quality, costing, and production of apparel products. Apparel product developers manage communication and the flow of information with partners, vendors, and others to ensure a successful development cycle from design handoff to commercialization.
apparel product development All of the processes that are needed to take a garment from inception to delivery to the customer.
apparel supply chain The network of fiber, textile, and findings suppliers, apparel product developers, manufacturers, vendors, and all the channels of distribution that work together to bring apparel products to the ultimate user.
appearance retention The ability of a material or garment to maintain its aesthetic look during use, refurbishment, and storage.
applied design Textile surface design that is added to the smooth surface of finished goods.
appliqué (ap-plee-kay′) Surface pattern made by cutting out fabric or lace designs and attaching them to another fabric or lace by means of embroidery or stitching.
appropriation To take inspiration from another person or culture’s style or look and interpret it for one’s self without acknowledgment of the source.
approved suppliers Vendors selected by a company to manufacture products based on reputation and negotiated quality level and price.
après-ski (ah-pray′) (French, “After-skiing”) adj. In fashion, describes clothing and accessories typically worn when relaxing after skiing.
apron 1. Item of apparel designed to protect clothing or used as a decorative accessory. 2. Dress with a free-hanging panel attached to the front of a skirt, which resembles an apron.
bib apron
apron swimsuit See pinafore swimsuit
AQL Acronym for acceptable quality limit arc measurement An arc is a segment of a circle around the circumference. Arc measurements help to clarify, e.g., that the front bust measurement is larger than the back bust measurement where they meet at the side seam.
argyle sweater (ar’-gyle) Distinctively patterned sweater made in several colors to produce diamondshaped designs, knit either by hand or machine
armscye The term used for the armhole in design and patternmaking; the section of a garment through which the arm passes or into which a sleeve is fitted. Usually round but may be squared underneath the arm.
aromatherapy Fragrant oils that are extracted from plants, herbs, and flowers and that are used to stimulate or relax people.
arrangement The organization of motifs into a layout. arrowhead tack An embroidery worked in the shape of a triangle used to embellish the end of a bound pocket or the top of an inverted pleat.
art deco A nonrepresentational style of art that rose to prominence in the 1920s and 1930s, characterized by precise and boldly delineated geometric shapes and strong colors. The style was used most notably in household objects and in architecture.
art direction Creating the visual concept for a line or marketing campaign.
argyle sweater
arrowhead stitch
art deco
art nouveau (art noo’-vo) Design style of the period between 1890 and 1910 that represented an attempt by artists and artisans to develop a style that had no roots in the past. Designs emphasized curved, waving lines; stylized natural forms of plants, animals, and women; and a strong sense of motion. Revived in later periods, especially in jewelry and textiles.
artificial intelligence The development of computer systems able to perform tasks that would normally require human intelligence, including visual perception, speech recognition, recognition of patterns, decisionmaking, and translation between languages.
artist brand A brand archetype that is less concerned with mainstream trends and more expressive in their product offerings. Artist brands offer unique, low-volume products that appeal to self-confident individuals who aren’t afraid to stand out in a crowd.
arts and crafts movement A movement in response to the tastes of the Victorian era and the growth of the Industrial Age, which overlapped with and influenced the art nouveau period.
ascot Wide necktie worn over the collar stand and looped over in front; the ends are cut diagonally.
ascot collar Long scarf attached to neckline with ends extending from neck which are looped over and tied.
aspirational brand A higher-priced brand from which a firm takes inspiration in part because its target audience admires the label or look, but for economic reasons cannot afford to buy it.
assists Sewing machine attachments that increase productivity and improve the quality of production sewing.
assortment The merchandise available in a store at any given time. Assortments are often described in terms of breadth (i.e., numbers of styles) and depth (i.e., numbers of sizes and colors available for each style).
assortment plan This plan defines assortment variety, volume, diversity, and distribution—how many fabrics, colors, styles, and sizes are required to meet customer demand. It defines how many skirts, pants, jackets, sweaters, etc., are required by fabric and price point.
ASTM International A government- and tradesupported organization that develops and publishes voluntary standards for many types of products, including textiles and apparel. They collect anthropometric data and translate that data into voluntary size standards that are available to their members. Formerly called American Society for Testing and Materials.
asymmetric/asymmetric balance The principle of informal balance, rather than formal balance; when an imaginary line is drawn vertically down the middle of a garment, each side is different.
asymmetric closing Garment closing that fastens at the side or diagonally rather than at the center of the garment.
asymmetric/ asymmetric balance
asymmetric closing
asymmetric hem Hem of uneven length—may be long in back and short in front or slanted diagonally from one side to the other.
ATC Acronym for Agreement on Textiles and Clothing. athleisure Activewear looks that are meant for everyday wear, not just during exercise.
at-market pricing A pricing strategy in which the retailer prices a product within the expectations of their target market.
ascot
ascot collar
attaché case See briefcase
attribute replenishment A program that replaces one item with a different item that has similar characteristics in terms of purpose, silhouette, and price.
audit fatigue A challenge faced by factories whereby the workers and management of contract factories become overwhelmed by the number and frequency of audits by different fashion brand companies with different codes of conduct.
augmented reality A technology that superimposes a computer-generated image on to a user’s view of the real world, thus providing a composite view. Augmented reality is used as a tool for digital shopping, however, it does not assess fit as a virtual reality tool might do.
authenticity Quality of a company that does business in accordance with its values and honestly shares its practices, decisions, and policies—mistakes and successes— with its partners and consumers.
A: attaché case to awning stripe
automatic replenishment Software that predetermines an agreed-upon inventory level that triggers an automatic reorder of stock. Fashion-oriented products do not lend themselves to one-for-one replenishment because fashion leaders seek new ideas.
auxiliary businesses Service providers such as design bureaus, software providers, sourcing agents, factors (credit agents), patternmaking services, testing labs, consultants, and advertising agencies that play indirect roles in the manufacture of apparel.
avant-garde (ah-vant′ gard) (French) Used in English to mean new, unconventional, ahead of its time. Used as an adjective to describe apparel that may be provocative or startling.
avatar A virtual representation of a human on a computer.
awning stripe Wide, even bands of one or more bright colors paired with white, woven or printed on fabric.
B Corporation™ Business certified by B Lab as to verified standards of social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability.
baby boomers Commonly used to refer to the 76 million Americans born after World War II between the years 1946 and 1964.
baby-doll dress Woman’s dress cut like a smock, with a high waistline and a gathered or pleated skirt, similar to children’s, infants’, and dolls’ dresses of the 1930s. Also carried over to very short pajamas and nightgowns.
badla A form of Indian embroidery that uses fine wire as embellishment.
bag 1. Shortened from the word “handbag.” 2. Any one of various kinds of luggage.
balance A design principle that refers to the distribution of visual weight of objects, color, texture, and bulk in a garment, giving it a sense of stability or equilibrium. It is determined by dividing a silhouette vertically down the middle.
balanced thread tension When the stitching threads interlock at the midpoint of the fabric layers, providing a smooth, flat appearance.
ballerina flat Soft, low kid shoe with thin sole and flat heel, inspired by shoes worn by ballet dancers.
ballerina length A hemline between the ankle and 2″–3″ (5–7.5 cm) above the ankle.
balmacaan (bal-ma-kan) Raglan-sleeved, loose-fittingstyle coat that buttons up the front to the neck and has a small, turned-down collar. Frequently made of tweed or water-repellent fabric.
bamboo fabric Generally synthetic rayon made from the cellulose extracted from the soft fibrous pulp of the bamboo plant.
backlash When negative opinions about a trend lead to consumers refusing to adopt it.
backpack Bag with straps fitting over the shoulders to help distribute the weight.
band collar See stand collar.
band hem An edge finish that utilizes a strip of material that is stitched to conceal the fabric raw edge along the hem.
bandana (ban-dan′-nah) Large, square, cotton handkerchief of either red or blue, with distinctive blackand-white design, tied around the head or neck by workmen and later adopted in all colors for wear with sport clothes.
baby doll
backpack
ballerina shoe
balmacaan
bandeau (band oh′) A woman’s strapless top made from a piece of fitted fabric that fits around the bust. As an adjective it’s used to describe swimsuits and tops.
bangle bracelet Narrow, round, rigid bracelet of metal, plastic, wood, or other material, worn singly or in multiples around the wrist.
bare midriff adj. Describes clothing that exposes the body from under the bust, baring the rib cage, to the waist or hips.
barn jacket A loose-fitting, mid-hip jacket that buttons down the front, intended for people performing rugged work outdoors.
barrel cuff A standard dress shirt cuff for men. The single cuff does not fold back on itself like a French cuff (see French cuff), but rather wraps around the wrist, laps over itself, and closes with a button and buttonhole. The corners of the cuff are cut square.
base pattern See block pattern.
baseball cap Cap with a dome-shaped crown, sometimes made with alternate panels of color and an adjustable band or elastic at the back. The colors may signify the team colors.
baseball jacket Waist-length zippered or snap-closed jacket with ribbed cuffs and waist, styled after those worn by Major League and Little League baseball players.
basic business functions The organizational structure of a company that assigns responsibility for the jobs and tasks required for a business organization to work efficiently and profitably. Though the functional requirements of every business vary, the functions of textile and apparel firms generally include (but are not limited to) sales and marketing, merchandising, supply chain management, information technology, and finance.
basic goods Textiles used by a brand for the core products of a line that do not change radically from year to year in quality or appearance.
basic product Product that is produced in high volume and with predictable demand, and that is very price sensitive because the consumer can purchase it from a variety of competitors.
basting stitch A running stitch that is generally used to keep two or more pieces of fabric in place temporarily.
bateau neckline (ba-toe′) Boat-shaped neckline, wide from side to side over the shoulders but high in front and back. Also called boat neckline, Sabrina neckline.
neckline
bathing cap A tight-fitting cap commonly made from silicone, latex, or Lycra™, worn on the head to keep hair dry and reduce friction while swimming. Worn by recreational and competitive swimmers.
bathrobe Informal clothing usually styled like a loose coat; may be sashed, buttoned, zipped, or hang loose. Worn over pajamas or nightgown. Often in an absorbent fabric to wear before or after a bath.
bateau
barrel cuff
baseball jacket
bandeau
bare midriff
batik (baa’-teek) Designs printed using a technique of painting with wax, to form a resist, before dyeing. Also used to describe designs derivative of batik but printed in another way.
battle jacket Waist-length army jacket worn in World War II, having two breast pockets, fitted waistband, zippered fly-closing, and tailored collar. Also called Eisenhower jacket.
battle jacket
batwing sleeve See dolman sleeve.
beanie A small hat that fits close to the head. Also called toque in Canada.
bell adj. Describes a wide variety of apparel details or items that have the approximate shape of a bell.
bell sleeve Sleeve made narrow at the top, set into normal armhole, and flaring at lower edge like a bell.
bell sleeve
bell-bottoms Pants cut straight from the thigh to the knee, with fullness added on both the outer and inner seams below the knee to give a “bell” flare at the hem.
shoulder in military fashion. May be made of fabric, leather, plastic, chain, etc.
belt bag 1. A small bag worn at the waist having slots in the back through which a belt is drawn. Usually has a flap closing and is worn with sportswear. 2. A pouch bag with handle through which a belt is drawn.
benchmark brands A brand that is considered the best of class at a particular level of competition, be it price point, quality, or styling.
benchmarking In competitive analysis, comparing a company with other firms considered to be best in class within a competitive metric to identify opportunities for improvement.
benchwarmer jacket Hooded knee-length jacket slipped over the head and zipped at neck.
beret (beh-ray′) General name given to a round, flat hat. Worn tilted to one side of the head and associated with the dress of an artist. See also tam.
Bermuda shorts Just-above-the-knee shorts that fit close to leg. Also called walking shorts.
bertha collar Large cape-like collar falling over shoulders and bodice of dress.
bell-bottoms
bellows pocket See safari pocket.
belt Decorative or functional item worn circling above, below, or at the natural waistline. Also worn over the
besom pocket See bound pocket bespoke Fashion products custom-made to an individual’s specifications; typically suits or specialty items.
Better Cotton Initiative An international organization that aims to promote measurable improvements in the key environmental and social impacts of cotton
belt bag
beret
bertha
cultivation worldwide to make it more economically, environmentally, and socially sustainable.
better market Product priced under contemporary designer and bridge brands and above the moderate market.
bias The direction of a fabric that is diagonal to the lengthwise or crosswise direction. When woven fabrics are pulled in the bias direction, they exhibit greater stretch than in the lengthwise or crosswise directions, unless the fabrics are woven with stretch yarns or given special finishes. See bias cut.
bias binding Narrow strips of fabric cut on the bias, thus pliable, for use in covering raw edges of curved necklines and armholes, or used as trimming. May either be hand cut or sold in packages. bias
bias cut A technique used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the bias or diagonal direction of the fabric, thereby causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly. For example, a full-skirted dress cut on the bias will hang more gracefully, or a narrow dress will cling to the figure.
bias facing A narrow strip of fabric cut on the bias and stitched along the opening to finish and stabilize the edge.
bib collar A flat stand collar with an attached decorative piece, shaped like a baby’s bib, that falls from the stand collar and over the top of a bodice.
bib shorts Women’s and children’s shorts made with a bib top and straps over the shoulders attached to pants at the back of waist. Popular for women in 1940s, again in 1960s, and in 1980s and after. For women and children in the 1980s and
after, the word “shortall” (a combination of the words “shorts” and “overalls”) was used for this type of shorts.
big data Very large complex data sets that are continually collected through multiple sources, including business transactions, marketing research data, and social media.
big-and-tall clothing Men’s clothing in sizes that are larger than the traditional sizing categories.
big-box stores Stores as large as 150,000 to 250,000 square feet, usually containing elements of a supermarket and a department store and offering a very wide range of merchandise.
biker jacket Waist-length jacket for sports. Styling varies but is often similar to a windbreaker or bomber jacket.
biker shorts Skin-tight, knee-length shorts made of four-way stretch fabric designed for comfort and function while bicycling.
biker shorts
bikini (bih kee′nee) 1. n. A very brief two-piece swimsuit for women 2. Man’s very brief swim trunks. 3. adj. Used to describe men’s or women’s underwear that exposes the navel and barely covers the groin area.
bilateral trade agreement Trade agreements between two countries.
bill See visor.
bill of materials (BOM) A section of a tech pack in which textiles, trims, labels, and packing materials are listed, with description, sizes, quantities, and other information needed to ensure that the product is made according to the design.
binding 1. A process of binding feet from infancy to prevent growth. 2. The process of wrapping and flattening the bust, popular in the 1920s. 3. Narrow fabric strips used to cover seams or raw edges of clothing. May be cut on the bias or on straight grain.
bib shorts of shortalls
bind-off The technique of finishing the edge of a knit so the stitches won’t ravel out. The technique is similar whether done by hand with knitting needles or by taking the knit off of a knitting machine.
biodegradable Anything that is capable of being decomposed by bacteria or other living organisms and thereby avoiding pollution. The ability of materials to break down and decompose into natural elements in a short period of time.
biodegradable textiles Textiles that can be manufactured from fiber crops grown without the use of pesticides and chemicals and that decompose back into nature’s cycle.
biofabricated leathers A leather-like product that can be grown in the laboratory using collagen protein and other essential building blocks present in animal skin that does not involve killing or harming animals.
biomimicry The design and production of materials, structures, and systems modelled on methods learned from the study of natural systems.
Birkin bag A classic two-handle Hermès bag inspired by the actress Jane Birkin. The bags continue to be distributed on schedules and in limited quantities, creating ongoing demand through scarcity.
bag
bishop sleeve A full sleeve set into a normal armhole that gradually increases in fullness from the upper arm to the wrist, where it is gathered into a cuff. Extra length over the top of the arm causes the sleeve to blouson over the cuff.
sleeve
black market Where illicit goods or commodities are traded in violation of official regulations.
black swan event An unpredictable event that is beyond what might be expected and may have dire consequences.
black tie Abbreviated reference to men’s semiformal evening attire. Denotes type of dress expected at a semiformal occasion. “Black tie” indicates a dinner jacket is required for men.
blazer Sport jacket, originally single-breasted, and with patch pockets, now made double-breasted as well and with varying types of pockets. Generally worn with trousers or skirt of contrasting color.
bleeding Tendency of dyed fabric to lose color or run when wet.
blind hem A hem finish where the raw edges are folded or covered with seam tape and sewn with a blind stitch so the stitches are not visible on the face of the garment. blistering Visible pebbled appearance on the surface of the garment due to improper fusing. Also called bubbling.
block pattern The simplest pattern pieces needed to make a garment. In a dress, the pieces would include a front, back, and sleeve with no style lines, design detail, or finishing pieces such as facings. Blocks include ease for comfort and movement, but no extra fabric for silhouettes that extend beyond the body shape. Also called base pattern, sloper.
block printing Method of hand-printing fabric by cutting separate wood or linoleum blocks for each color in relief, then inking and printing individual colored blocks.
blockchain A system of recording and safeguarding digital information in a way that makes it difficult to change, hack, or cheat the system. It is an accounting of transactions that can be duplicated and distributed across the web safely using the blockchain system, making it ideal for money transfers and the sharing of sensitive information.
blocking 1. Process of shaping knitted clothing after completion or washing by drawing its outline on paper and shaping article to conform. 2. Millinery term for placing a felt or straw hood over a block of wood, then using heat or steam for desired shape.
blog A journal-type entry, sometimes from consumer to consumer, sometimes from company to consumer, that provides information and opinions in the form of a web log; a new style of information transfer that bypasses traditional media gatekeepers and the time lag involved in media production.
Birkin
bishop
blazer
bloomers 1. Full pants of any length that are gathered at the end of the legs. 2. A form of Turkish pants popularized by Amelia Bloomer and the Reform Dress Movement of the 19th c. as an alternative to the constrictive clothing of the time. 3. Full pants worn under little girls’ dresses in 1920s.
blouse Clothing for the upper part of the body, usually softer and less tailored than a shirt.
blouson (blue-zohn′) adj. Describes blouses, tops, and dress bodices with fullness at the waist, usually gathered into a band or, in the case of a dress, attached to a skirt.
blouson jacket (blue′-zohn) Jacket with a bloused effect at a normal or low waistline, either gathered into a waistband or pulled in by drawstring.
blue jeans Pants traditionally made in blue or indigo denim, styled with topstitching, two hip pockets, two back pockets, a V-shaped yoke in back, and rivets reinforcing points of strain.
board shorts Swim trunks worn by surfers, cut low on the hips with a hemline that falls anywhere from midthigh to right below the knee.
board of directors Chief governing body of a corporation elected by the corporation’s stockholders.
boat neckline See bateau neckline.
bobby socks A thicker cotton sock for women that ends just above the ankle and is worn folded over.
bodice The upper part of a woman’s dress, often close-fitting.
bodies Garment silhouettes that are used repeatedly, season after season, minimizing product development costs by allowing manufacturers to modify existing patterns which have already been fitted and graded.
body painting Fad of late 1960s that involved painting face and body with fantasy flowers, geometric shapes, and other designs. See also tattoo, caste mark.
body piercing Making a hole somewhere on the body (e.g., ear lobes, tongue, nose, belly button) through which an item of jewelry can be fastened. The jewelry for insertion in these openings is called body jewelry.
body scanning Technology that takes a three-dimensional snapshot of the human form, providing complete and accurate measurement data.
body shirt See Bodysuit.
body sweater See Bodysuit.
body type Classification of a specified population based on key length and circumference body measurements and proportions. One classification system uses the categories ectomorph, endomorph, and mesomorph; another system refers to body types as triangle or pear, inverted triangle or pear, hourglass, rectangle, oval or round, and diamond. In fashion, body type classifications are used to improve fit and help consumers select garment styles that flatter their figure type.
bodyshaper See shapewear.
bodysuit One-piece, fitted garment without legs and with a snap crotch. Made sleeveless or with long or short sleeves, and with varying styles of collars and necklines. Sometimes substitutes for a blouse or sweater. Also called body shirt.
bodysuit
bloomer costume
blouson blouse
blue jeans
Bohemian A style of clothing inspired by Bohemian and Indian cultures that is characterized by colorful, flowing garments.
boho adj. Short for Bohemian. Descriptive of persons having an unconventional lifestyle, such as gypsies in the region of Bohemia (the Western side of the Czech Republic). Styles characterized as boho are made in vibrant colors, softly flowing fabrics, and combinations of variously patterned fabrics.
bolero (bo-lehr′-o) Waist-length or above-the-waist jacket, usually collarless and often sleeveless, with rounded front, and no fastenings. Copied from the Spanish bullfighter’s embroidered jacket.
bondage apparel Belts, arm binders, blindfolds, body harnesses, chastity belts, collars, gags, hoods, and leashes worn by those who engage in the act of being restrained for pleasure.
bonded labor Labor that is secured as a means of repayment of a debt or a loan; repayment can apply to a whole family and be inherited through generations.
bonding A process in which one or more pieces of fabric are joined together with an adhesive to make a composite.
boning Flexible rods made of steel, cane, or plastic inserted into channels that are sewn into the garment to support how the garment fits to the body.
book bag A satchel with a handle or strap used to carry books and other school supplies.
bolo tie Western-type tie of heavy rounded braid with metal-tipped ends, fastening with an ornamental slide. Also called shoelace tie.
jacket bolo tie
BOM Acronym for bill of materials.
bomber jacket A short zip-front jacket with knit waistband and cuffs, often made of leather. Also called flight jacket.
booked seam The most common configuration of fabric in industrial sewing, in which two layers of fabric are lined up along their cut edges and inserted into the machine.
boom and bust cycles Periodic swings in popularity between times when an item is “in” and “out” of fashion.
boot-cut pants Refers to the width at hem of pants—cut wide enough so that pant legs can be pulled over the outside of a pair of western boots.
bootleg goods Quality products made by the same manufacturer that produces the genuine branded products; these are sold to the black market.
boots Shoes that extend to the ankle or above, used for utility, sports, or fashion.
BOPIS/BOPUS A service that enables consumers to buy online and pick up in-store.
bolero
bomber jacket
book bag
fashion boot
border print A print designed so that one selvage forms a distinct border used at the hem of a dress or shirt or worked into the garment in some other way.
boro The historic Japanese practice of reworking and repairing textiles through piecing, patching, and stitching to extend their use.
bottom-weight Textiles weighing more than 6.0 ounces per square yard (203 g/m2); used in products such as pants, skirts, jackets, etc.
bouclé A fancy, irregular, multi-ply yarn that contains small loops to give it texture.
bouffant (boo-fahnt′) Describes apparel or hairstyles that are full or puffed out.
bound adj. Used to describe a raw edge of a garment or part of a garment that has been finished either with band of, bias binding or tape.
bound buttonhole Buttonhole with edges finished with separate strips of fabric or leather binding.
imaginative presentation of goods and individualized customer service.
boutonnière (boo-ton-yeer’) Flower worn in lapel buttonhole.
bow collar Flat, stand-up band, with extended ends, that is sewn to the neckline. The ends tie in a bow in front.
bow tie Man’s tie, that circles the neck under the collar and is tied in a bow under the chin. Clip-on versions are already tied in a bow, and clip to the collar.
bowling shirt Shirt designed to be worn by men and women for bowling, personalized with name of individual on front and team name on back.
box bag or clutch Handbag with rigid frame, similar to small suitcase or lunch box, made in leather, metal, or vinyl.
bound placket A binding is used to cover the raw edges of an opening to create an over lap.
bound pocket Inset pocket made with a slit finished like a bound buttonhole on the outside, providing access to inner concealed pocket. Also called double-welt, besom pocket.
bound seam (BS) Fabric edge on garment parts that is finished by the application of a separate piece of fabric. Often used on unlined jackets and coats.
boutique (boo-teek’) Small shop selling a variety of unique merchandise not generally found in department, mass-market or chain stores. Characterized by an bound buttonhole
box jacket Any straight, unfitted jacket, waist length or longer.
box pleat Pleat made by making two folds in fabric, the edges of which face in opposite directions. Sometimes box pleats may be stitched down for some distance before the fullness is released.
boxer shorts Undergarments that are styled similarly to those garments worn for the sport of boxing.
bow collar blouse
boyfriend jeans Pants with a relaxed fit through the thighs and rear as if a woman is wearing her boyfriend’s pants.
boy-leg adj. Describes a garment with a close-fitting leg that ends at the top of the thigh.
bra An undergarment worn by women to support the breasts.
bracelet bag Type of handbag with one or two bangle bracelets as handles. May be a soft pouch bag made of leather or fabric, or it may be made with a frame.
bracelet sleeve Three-quarter-length, fitted, cuffless sleeve, allowing a bracelet to show.
braid 1. n. Narrow woven band for use as trimming or binding, or for outlining lace and embroidery. 2. Textile trims made of heavy cord wrapped by filament or metal yarns; often used for military or formal looks. 3. v. To plait or interweave strands of hair, fabric, or straw.
brand n. A manufacturer- or distributor-assigned name, logo, or label that identifies the products of a company and creates an image in the consumer’s mind about the qualities and characteristics of the products.
brand community A community formed on the basis of attachment to a product brand.
brand differentiation Building into a product’s design some characteristic that sets it apart from the competition and can be marketed to consumers.
brand equity The value that accrues to a brand for customers, who may be willing to spend more for the promise of a brand-name product, and as a corporate asset that can be leveraged in launching new product categories, influencing mergers and acquisitions, maximizing revenue streams, and justifying capital investment.
brand extension The practice of expanding a brand’s reach, achieved by expanding a brand’s category or service assortment.
brand identity All means by which a company portrays the brand and communicates with the consumer.
brand image A consumer’s set of assumptions and feelings about products and/or services provided under a brand name.
brand manager A position that oversees advertising and marketing activities to ensure the right message is delivered for a fashion brand. As part of an in-house marketing department or marketing consulting company, a brand manager works with product development personnel to assure effective and consistent fashion brand identity strategies.
brand portfolio A collection of multiple brands managed by a single company but not necessarily recognized by consumers as related.
brand positioning How the company positions its brand on key characteristics such as price, target customer, and fashion level, as compared to its competitors.
brand recognition The degree to which consumers are aware of a brand name and brand image.
brand strategy Planning document that outlines the company’s mission, target customer (audience for the brand), and competitors (to create brand distinction) to inform brand development.
brand tiers A strategy in which a company owns multiple brands in a product category and positions each for a different target consumer and different retail channels, differentiating between the brands in image, pricing, packaging, placement, and presentation.
brand umbrella A collection of multiple brands managed by a single company, marketed so that consumers understand that they are related in promise and quality (e.g., Gap, Old Navy, and Banana Republic, or all of the Kohl’s house brands).
branding A competitive strategy used to distinguish and market the brand through the development of product, advertising, and promotions.
brassiere See bra.
break point The point along the front edge of the garment at which the lapel begins to roll back. See tailored collar
breaker pants Straight-legged pants with zipper at side seam that shows contrasting lining when opened. May have zippered back pocket and grommet trim. Der. From break dancing, which requires a lot of movement.
breaking strength Amount of force applied to a material before the yarns break and a tear occurs.
breakline The line on which the lapels of a collar turn back. See tailored collar.
breast pocket 1. Pocket on men’s suit coats and overcoats placed on the left side of the chest. 2. A similar pocket on women’s tailored garments.
brick-and-mortar retailer Retailer with one or more physical stores in which customers can see, touch, and feel merchandise.
bridal adj. Describes clothing and accessories worn by a bride at a wedding.
bridal dress See wedding dress.
bridal veil Traditionally, a length of white net, lace, or tulle reaching to waist, hips, ankles, or floor in back. Chest length in front and worn over face during wedding, and turned back after ceremony.
bridesmaid’s dress Any type of dress worn by a bride’s attendant(s) at a wedding. May match in style and color with other attendants, and is usually selected to complement the bride’s dress.
bridge market A price point that falls between the better market and the designer market (similar in price to the contemporary designer), geared to a more mature customer that focuses on classic styling with a fashion twist executed in high-quality fabrics.
briefcase 1. Large, usually flat case with a carrying handle, most often made of real or synthetic leather and large enough or can expand sufficiently to hold documents, books, and the like. Also called attaché case. 2. Handbag of briefcase size for woman executive that features small outside pockets for personal items.
briefs A type of underwear for women or men made of tight-fitting knit fabric which covers the body from the waist to the top of the leg.
British Standards Institution (BSI) A nonprofit organization that develops and publishes standards used in the UK.
broad and shallow assortment A store that offers many different styles in limited sizes and colors. brocade A rich, heavy fabric with a raised, shuttle-woven design.
broomstick skirt A full skirt, generally ankle length, with tiny, irregular pleats or wrinkles.
bubble-up theory A chain of events beginning with street-style innovation, picked up and popularized through media, disseminated to street kids in other locales, and finally finding its way into a designer’s collection.
bubbling See blistering.
buck A piece of equipment for pressing that has two parts that open and close like an oyster. The base is shaped and padded to help build in the correct shape for tailored garments. When the cover comes down, pressure and steam are applied to mold the correct shape into the garment.
bucket bag Round handbag made in the shape of a bucket.
bucket hat Casual hat made of fabric that has moderatesized, sloping brim, which may be stitched in concentric circles and is attached to flat-topped, slightly coneshaped crown.
buckle A decorative or functional clasp, usually of metal, wood, or plastic. Consists of a rectangular or curved rim, often with one or more movable tongues.
budget market The low end of the apparel pricing spectrum. Also called mass market.
budgets Written plans for anticipated monetary income and expenditures of the firm. Among other things, the budget dictates the percentages of projected sales assigned to developing, producing, marketing, and distributing the goods. A budget must also cover all administrative costs and overheads.
buffalo checks Heavy fabrics made with large square blocks in contrasting colors, often red and black, that are used for shirts or outerwear.
BS Acronym for bound seam.
bubble 1. adj. Describes apparel with a balloon-like shape. 2. n. Child’s garment with short or long lengths that are slightly balloon-shaped.
bundle A stack of cut garment pieces, folded and/or tied, sorted, and grouped according to pattern, color, size, and construction processes. These bundles are passed from one operator to another to complete the sequence of construction operations.
bundle system Stacked, cut fabric pieces for a particular style, size, and color are grouped for garment production by tying them together in a bundle. Operators take the bundle, perform one or more operations, bundle the finished work, and then pass the work to the next employee.
bundle ticket A master list of operations for a garment bundle that includes bundle coupons which track and compensate sewing operators, tracking information, piece rate, style number, size, and shade number.
buckle
broomstick skirt bubble suit bubble dress
burnout print adj. Describes fabric or lace that has a patterned effect produced by using yarns of two different fibers and destroying all or part of one of the yarns. Chemicals that dissolve one of the fibers are printed onto the fabric in the design areas.
burqa/burka An all-enveloping garment worn by some Muslim women, most closely associated with the countries of Pakistan and Afghanistan. This garment differs somewhat in each country. The Pakistani version of the burqa consists of a cap, a cape-like body covering that includes an eyehole grid, and a separate panel at the front. The fullness of the fabric is gathered into soft pleats or folds or gathered and sewn onto the cap. The Afghan chadri has a cap to which the eye grid panel is attached and has no inserted front panel. Hundreds of fine, pressed pleats are sewn onto the cap. Other countries with large Muslim populations may wear variations of these garments. Also called chador, chaddar, chadri.
burqini Bathing dress worn by Muslim women that covers the entire body except for the face. It generally consists of a knee-length, long-sleeved tunic worn with long pants and a headscarf. The garment is made in a wide range of colors; fabrics are those typically used for swimwear.
burqini
burst seam Broken stitches within a seam due to improperly joined materials or tension on the garment. bush hat Large-brimmed Australian-type hat worn turned up on one side. Worn in Australia and in Africa for safaris, also worn as part of uniform by Australian soldiers in World War II. Also called caddie, caddy.
hat
bush jacket Jacket originally worn in Africa on hunting expeditions, where it was made of khaki-colored cotton with peaked lapels, single-breasted front, belt, and four large bellows pockets. Adapted for fashion sportswear and made in all types of fabrics and worn by men, women, and children. Also called safari jacket.
bush jacket or safari jacket
bush shirt See safari shirt.
business An enterprise engaged in commercial, industrial, or professional activities to achieve goals. Businesses may be for-profit or nonprofit; they may be organized as sole proprietorships, partnerships, or corporations.
business casual A relaxed style that is acceptable for office wear; what that is varies depending on the office environment. It may mean khakis, a dress shirt without a tie and a sports coat, or dressy jeans and a polo shirt or sweater for men. For women it may mean separates rather than a matched suit, or dressy jeans and a sweater or blazer.
business cycle The cyclical nature of the economy as it passes through the rising and falling phases of prosperity and stagnation.
business ecosystem A collaborative network of organizations that together create products or services that address a coherent need in the marketplace.
burqa
bush
business law The body of law that focuses on (1) regulations around business entities such as partnerships and corporations, and (2) laws associated with operating and managing a business.
business logistics Coordination of forecasting need; purchasing materials, trims, and findings; and moving materials, semi-finished, and finished products from the product’s inception and distribution to the ultimate consumer.
business objectives Objectives of a company related to financial sustainability, profit, and business growth.
business plan A document that assesses market and operational feasibility by defining the framework and structure for a new business or business division. A business plan identifies the products and/or services that will be offered, analyzes the intended target market and competition, identifies required resources, and defines goals for the new business. It sets out a budget that identifies the operating capital required for the first few years of business and projects sales goals.
business suit A jacket and pants or skirt, for men or women, suitable for daytime wear at the office and also worn for other occasions.
business-to-business partners Firms closely allied as suppliers, manufacturers, or customers. bust point. See apex.
busted A seam whose edges are prefinished before it is stitched and pressed with the seam allowances open. Also called pressed open, butterflied.
Buster Brown collar A medium-sized, starched white collar with round edges that lies flat on the neck and shoulder, first worn by boys in the beginning of the 20th c. and later adopted by women and girls. Often worn with a separate wide, soft bow tie.
bustier (boo-ste′-yay) Formfitting strapless garment for women traditionally worn as lingerie. It is designed
using boning to push up the bust and shape the midsection and waist. It is sometimes laced, similar to a corset or camisole, and reaches to a few inches/centimeters below the waist or to the hips. It may be a separate garment or the bodice of a dress or jumpsuit.
bustle (bus′-sel) General term describing exceptional fullness at the back of the skirt of a woman’s dress. Historically a pad, cushion, or arrangement of steel springs created a rounded projection below the waist over which the extra fullness draped.
butterflied See busted.
butterfly sleeve Wide flaring sleeve set in smoothly at armhole, extending to elbow or wrist, giving a caped effect.
button-down collar Shirt collar with pointed ends that are fastened to the shirt by small buttons.
bustle
bustle dress 1885
business suit
butterfly sleeve
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— Estimez-vous bien heureux de recevoir du pain comestible et de la viande froide ! si, un jour, il vous arrive d’être fait prisonnier, on vous collera dans un camp de représailles et alors, vous verrez ça ! Vous n’aurez que de l’orge pourrie, des betteraves crues et quelques autres saletés, en toute petite quantité…
Ainsi, Camille se faisait toujours moucher.
Il ne fut cependant point emmené prisonnier. Il fit toute la guerre et revint avec les vainqueurs.
Son père, lui, avait profité du désordre pour amasser encore de nouvelles richesses. Mais à ce jeu, il s’était fatigué. Si bien qu’un beau jour, au moment où Camille revenait, il finit par mourir, laissant à son fils une grande fortune.
Camille se frotta les mains, passa sa langue sur ses lèvres.
— Attends un peu ! murmura-t-il ; cette fois, on va pouvoir rigoler !
Sans perdre de temps, il essaya de goûter aux bonnes choses. Mais voilà ! il ne savait pas du tout s’y prendre ; il manquait d’habitude. D’autre part, il n’avait plus l’entrain endiablé de son jeune âge. Certains plaisirs, autrefois violemment désirés, lui semblèrent fastidieux. Il était un peu abasourdi et riait difficilement. Dès les premiers moments, la bonne chère acheva de lui détraquer l’estomac. Il tomba malade.
Très embêté, il alla trouver un médecin qui avait sa confiance.
— Guérissez-moi bien vite ! dit Camille ; car je voudrais prendre du bon temps.
Le médecin le tripota consciencieusement, puis murmura :
— Ça sera long !
— Qu’est-ce donc qui sera long ? demanda Camille.
Le médecin le regarda dans les yeux.
— Vous êtes un homme, dit-il ; vous êtes même un héros ; on peut vous dire la vérité… Eh bien !… mon pauvre garçon, vous avez l’estomac fichu… Trop de soupers fins, trop de vins généreux… Que voulez-vous ! on ne fait pas impunément la noce ; les excès se
paient un jour ou l’autre… Bref ! il n’y a pas trente-six façons d’y voir ; pour vous en tirer sans trop de souffrances, il vous faudra suivre pendant des années un régime sévère.
— Voyons ce régime ! balbutia Camille.
— C’est bien simple, répondit le médecin : Vie solitaire et tranquille… ni viande, ni poisson, ni vin, ni café, ni liqueurs… bouillon aux herbes, rigoureusement maigre, eau de Vichy, purées de pommes de terre et de haricots décortiqués.
Camille verdit, puis jaunit. Instantanément un flot de bile s’était mêlé à son sang.
Il n’en mourut point mais perdit le peu de gaieté qui lui restait encore. Et, à partir de ce moment, la joie d’autrui commença aussi à lui faire mal au cœur.
C’est ainsi que, né avec les meilleures dispositions pour rire, s’amuser et réjouir la société, Camille est devenu un triste et mauvais chien, comme feu son père.
EN SE DANDINANT
En se dandinant, ce ridicule bonhomme suivait avec une extrême application la dernière ligne de bave déposée par les flots. A chaque nouvelle vague, un bouledogue qu’il tenait en laisse sautait en arrière, mais il n’en avait cure.
Isidore Duribouc, dans le secret de sa conscience, ne souhaita pas la mort immédiate de ce vieil imbécile mais, simplement, qu’une vague énorme et discrète vînt le cueillir par les pieds pour le rouler à travers de vastes étendues.
Il faisait à peine jour et déjà Isidore sentait son cœur gonflé d’amertume et de misanthropie.
Il était cependant un garçon d’humeur égale et très douce, mais il avait une petite bonne amie qui répondait, quand il lui plaisait, au nom charmant de Séraphine ; et, précisément parce qu’Isidore était d’âme très douce, Séraphine abusait du droit qu’ont les bonnes amies de rendre la vie insupportable aux pauvres hommes.
Ainsi, ce matin même, après une nuit sans sommeil, dans cette villa Roméo si chèrement louée, mais où les insectes étaient rois, Isidore s’était entendu attribuer des crimes honteux et quelques vices des moins avouables. Il demeurait encore pétrifié de douloureuse surprise que Séraphine, de sa voix angélique, ajoutait : — De plus, monsieur, j’ai à vous dire que vous sentez le vieux crabe d’étalage et que c’est répugnant.
Ayant ainsi parlé, forte du devoir accompli, elle s’était tournée vers la ruelle. Et, bientôt, entre ses lèvres pures, un souffle léger mille fois plus doux que le parfum de l’oranger… Car, cette petite guenon, on ne sait par quelle miracle du diable, les puces la respectaient…
Alors Isidore s’était vêtu à tâtons, avait ouvert la porte, puis, recherchant la solitude, il avait marché vers les sables de la mer
Il n’aimait nullement les bains froids. Il s’y résignait parfois, mais ce n’était que contraint et forcé par les exigences de la mode ou de Séraphine. Dans tous les cas, il eût préféré jouer à autre chose, à la manille aux enchères par exemple, bien qu’il n’y fût pas de première force et que les consommations lui restassent le plus souvent.
Pourtant, ce matin-là, il s’était décidé librement au sacrifice. C’est qu’il éprouvait le besoin de calmer l’irritation de sa peau et aussi qu’il était un peu en colère et que la mer l’agaçait à lui cracher ses vagues à la figure comme autant de défis.
Sur la plage déserte, il avait donc commencé de se déshabiller en plein air lorsqu’il vit apparaître le vieux bonhomme avec son chien.
— Après tout, pensa Isidore, je serais bien simple de me cacher pour si peu.
Il s’assit au fond d’un trou, ôta prestement son pantalon et enfila son maillot. Puis, d’une allure décidée, il s’avança vers la plateforme d’où les plongeurs, à marée haute, produisaient leurs effets. Prudent, il n’alla point cependant jusqu’à l’extrémité de cette plateforme. Il fit seulement quelques pas ; puis, sans hésiter, d’un seul coup, brutalement, il s’enfonça au sein des flots comme un poignard.
Or la marée montait depuis un bon moment, mais sans s’emballer le moins du monde. Il y avait encore bien peu d’eau au pied de la plate-forme quand Isidore, avec tant d’autorité, plongea. Aussi laboura-t-il le sable, des mains d’abord, puis du front, puis du nez.
Dès que cela lui fut possible, il se redressa, aveugle et suffoqué. Il eût volontiers juré et proféré quelques gros mots, mais il lui fallait
d’abord rejeter par la bouche et par les narines, l’eau qui lui était entrée jusqu’à l’âme. L’immense éclat de rire de la mer se prolongeait encore quand Isidore put ouvrir les yeux. Il vit, à quinze pas de lui, ce sapristi de bonhomme qui, les mains au dos, le regardait en rigolant aussi.
— Est-elle bonne, ce matin ?
— Sans pareille ! rugit Isidore.
Et, tournant le dos au ridicule vieillard, il affronta les vagues. Il crut de son devoir, puisqu’on le regardait, d’imiter de son mieux les gestes du parfait nageur. Accroupi, dans l’eau jusqu’au cou, il avançait par brasses puissantes ; de temps en temps, il faisait la planche sur l’eau mince, ses deux mains reposant sur le sable ; ou bien, agitant les bras à l’anglaise, il s’en allait vers la haute mer jusqu’au point où ses pieds commençaient à se détacher un peu trop facilement du fond.
De loin, dans la brume du matin, le bonhomme, dont il se souciait, parbleu, comme d’une vieille noix, devait être dupe.
Isidore lutta longtemps contre la fureur des flots. Il gardait la bouche strictement fermée ; il but encore deux ou trois coups, mais par le nez, ce qui est bien la plus détestable façon de boire.
Le bonhomme, cependant, s’était assis sur la plage. Il observait le manège d’Isidore et semblait prendre beaucoup de plaisir. Tant de plaisir qu’il ne s’occupait plus de son chien. Celui-ci, ayant ramené sous ses pattes les vêtements d’Isidore et son peignoir de bain, avait fait sur ce tapis trois petit tours, puis s’était couché.
Isidore sortit de l’eau et le vieillard lui dit d’un air aimable, mais pourtant un peu rossard :
— Monsieur, je vous prie d’agréer mes salutations les plus sincères et les plus cordiales… J’ose espérer que ce bain matinal vous aura été profitable… Mais, permettez-moi une remarque : autant que j’aie pu en juger de cet observatoire peu élevé, vous ne savez pas nager !… Vous ne savez pas du tout nager, jeune homme ! On ne me trompe pas, moi !
Isidore répondit :
— Je vous prie aussi d’agréer mes salutations ; mais, avec tout le respect que je vous dois, je vous ferai observer que vous surveillez mal votre chien. Voyez, monsieur ! cette délicieuse bête pourrait attraper des puces !
Entendant cela, le bonhomme se retourna avec vivacité et d’une voix basse mais terrible et qu’une haine formidable et longtemps contenue faisait trembler, il apostropha le bouledogue :
— Hindenbourg ! fit-il, attends un peu, répugnant fils de cochon ! bandit !
Puis, à Isidore avec l’accent de la plus ardente prière :
— Monsieur, soyez donc assez bon pour corriger cet atroce voyou ! Tuez-le, monsieur, tuez-le ! c’est votre droit. Vous n’auriez pas, par hasard, une matraque ?… ou bien un revolver ?… Hindenbourg ! ici !… Regardez-moi un petit peu cette figure de bagne !… Je vous en adjure, mon charmant jeune homme, mon ami, cassez-lui sa sale gueule ! L’occasion est belle ; puisque vous en avez le droit, cassez-la-lui !
— Permettez que je vous laisse ce soin, répondit Isidore, froidement. Pour l’instant, je veux avant tout me vêtir, car le vent du matin me fouette durement les reins… Je dois vous dire aussi que je réserve mon opinion, monsieur !
Isidore, très digne, s’enveloppa de son peignoir et passa derrière la carcasse d’un vieux bateau de pêche échoué là.
Lorsqu’il fut habillé et qu’il eut soigneusement roulé son peignoir, il se demanda comment il allait bien pouvoir employer son temps. Il ne lui fut pas autrement désagréable de voir venir vers lui le vieillard avec son chien.
— Monsieur, je vous prie d’agréer mes excuses les plus sincères. L’affreuse crapule que je traîne comme un remords…
Isidore, souriant, interrompit :
— N’en parlons plus ! fit-il rondement avec un geste magnanime.
Et il prit le pas du bonhomme qui suivait toujours, en se dandinant, la dernière ligne de bave et de varechs.
Le bonhomme reprit :
— Votre bonté, monsieur, ressemble à de la faiblesse… Mais je vous prie d’agréer mes excuses personnelles. Je me suis permis en effet de faire quelques remarques sur votre façon si originale de nager ; or ces remarques, vous en êtes encore à vous demander si elles venaient d’un honnête homme ou d’un de ces vulgaires fripons comme on en rencontre tant, hélas ! à notre époque. Il est bien tard pour me présenter à vous : souffrez que je le fasse cependant.
Le bonhomme s’arrêta et prononça les mots suivants, nettement scandés :
— Albert Pioutre, professeur en retraite, officier de l’Instruction publique et du Mérite agricole, lauréat de l’Académie des Belleslettres de Fontenay-le-Comte.
Isidore, qui n’avait jamais eu que le prix de bonne conduite et de persévérance, s’inclina, fort impressionné.
— Charmé, monsieur !… très honoré !… Mon nom, à moi, est Duribouc… Isidore Duribouc… Je suis propriétaire.
— Qu’il me soit permis, monsieur, de vous en féliciter… Hindenbourg ! suivras-tu, macaque ?
Isidore pensa qu’il était en reste. Il en rougit.
— Je vous félicite aussi, dit-il, pour vos succès mérités auprès de l’Académie de Fontenay-le-Comte. Fontenay-le-Comte est une ville que je connais et que j’estime. J’ai chassé plusieurs fois chez un ami, du côté de Fontenay-le-Comte. Il y a du lièvre par là, et de la perdrix rouge.
— Oui, dit M. Pioutre, mais il n’y a pas la mer.
— Ma foi, répondit Isidore, moi, je me passe très bien de la mer… A vous parler franchement, la mer ne me dit rien ; je n’aime pas la mer.
A ces mots, le bonhomme s’arrêta.
— Monsieur, dit-il, si vous pouviez supporter le voisinage du hideux mouchard que je tiens enchaîné, nous irions nous asseoir sur cette petite dune artificielle que les mains innocentes des enfants ont élevée.
Ils s’assirent et M. le professeur Pioutre, sévèrement :
— Vous n’aimez pas la mer… dites-moi donc ce que vous lui reprochez.
L’élève Isidore se trouva bel et bien collé. Certes il n’aimait pas la mer mais il lui semblait très difficile d’exposer congrûment ses griefs et de les classer par paquets distincts et par ordre d’importance comme il eût été convenable de le faire : primo, secundo…
Le professeur lui tendit la perche.
— Le séjour au bord de la mer serait-il préjudiciable à votre santé ?
— Non ! pas précisément !… mais je vous le dis, la mer m’embête.
Voyant qu’il n’obtiendrait rien de satisfaisant, M. le professeur Pioutre marqua mentalement le zéro et, à grands traits, développa le sujet.
— La mer vous embête parce que le logement provisoire que vous occupez est exigu, peu confortable et visité par de nombreux insectes… Cette ville, monsieur, est en proie aux puces… D’autre part, les paroles que vous prononçâtes tout à l’heure à propos de Fontenay-le-Comte me permettent d’affirmer que vous songez avec mélancolie aux lièvres et aux perdrix rouges : la chasse est ouverte depuis deux jours… Vous demeurez ici mais contre votre gré. C’est donc que votre épouse vous tient… J’imagine cette épouse parée de toutes les grâces et de toutes les vertus ; cependant, je gage qu’elle ne vous laisse pas volontiers flâner seul sur la plage à l’heure du bain avec, en main, une paire de bonnes jumelles. Vous êtes tenu de l’accompagner ; vous devez garder son peignoir bien au chaud et peut-être organisez-vous de pénibles excursions… Vous n’êtes pas libre à l’heure de l’apéritif et il vous est impossible de jouer au bridge avec vos amis… si toutefois vous avez des amis dans cette ville…
— C’est à peu près cela, dit Isidore… mais je ne connais pas le jeu de bridge. C’est à la manille aux enchères que je voudrais jouer, si j’avais des partenaires et si mon amie pouvait se passer de moi.
— Enfin, poursuivit M. Pioutre, par-dessus tout, il y a ceci : vous n’aimez pas la mer parce que vous ne savez pas nager… Moi qui vous parle, monsieur, j’ai contre la mer les griefs ordinaires et d’autres encore. Je l’aime cependant avec passion parce que je fus et j’ose le dire, je suis toujours, un nageur de première force… Ah ! monsieur ! la mer furieuse ! la mer calme ! la mer verte ! la mer bleue ! la mer, la mer… Je voudrais être poète comme l’était mon regretté collègue Bordier, Émile Bordier, agrégé de grammaire, pour pouvoir confier au zéphir des milliers de strophes ailées… Hindenbourg ! veux-tu fermer ta sinistre gueule ?
M. Pioutre tira violemment sur la laisse du bouledogue qui grondait ; puis il continua en ces termes :
— Cette saloperie de chien est, avec quelques-uns de ses congénères, une des causes profondes de mon malheur. Autrefois, monsieur, je venais à la mer chaque année, pendant les vacances, avec mon épouse, mes deux enfants et une tortue, une seule tortue… Gardez-vous, monsieur, de parler ou d’écrire contre les tortues : ce sont des animaux sympathiques… Mes enfants cherchaient des coquillages et travaillaient le sable ; mon épouse faisait la conversation avec quelques-uns de mes meilleurs amis ; moi, tranquille, pendant ce temps, je nageais… Quand, de l’extrémité de cette plate-forme, je plongeais dans la mer écumante, il y avait foule sur la plage pour me regarder, pour m’admirer. Je nageais sur le dos, sur le ventre, sur le flanc, en grenouille, en chien, les mains à la nuque, les mains aux hanches, d’un bras, d’une jambe… Je nageais comme je voulais !… Quand il me plaisait, je faisais le mort, oui, monsieur, le mort ! sans remuer seulement le petit bout du petit doigt… J’étais heureux ; je savourais les rapides délices des plus belles vacances. O temps si vite enfui !… Cela se gâta peu à peu, vous le pensez bien. D’abord, mon épouse se brouilla à mort avec un de mes amis qui venait le plus volontiers lui tenir compagnie. Elle prit de l’humeur et, au premier cheveu blanc,
elle se déclara jalouse — sans aucun motif, hélas ! vous pouvez en croire la parole d’un ancien universitaire. Enfin, à mesure qu’elle détestait davantage l’humanité, elle se prenait à aimer les bêtes d’un amour chaque jour grandissant, d’un amour exclusif, irrésistible, furieux. Nous avions déjà une tortue comme j’ai eu l’honneur de vous le dire ; nous en eûmes dix, puis des chats, des souris blanches, des perroquets, un écureuil. A présent, nous en sommes aux chiens, aux très vieux chiens, aux chiens malades, grognons, affreux. Ces bêtes-là, à la fin du compte, c’est moi qui les ai presque toujours soignées. J’eus cependant quelques mois de répit ; ce fut grâce à mon regretté gendre. Car, j’ai oublié de vous le dire, ma fille Isabelle, à la fleur de son âge, parée de toutes les grâces et de toutes les vertus, épousa un charmant jeune homme qui, lui, ne savait pas nager et adorait les animaux. Je le vois encore préparant avec application les pâtées, posant les vésicatoires, lavant, brossant, épouillant ! Le pauvre cher garçon ! Il était marqué par le destin et, quand j’y songe à présent, je crois qu’il en avait obscurément conscience. Souvent, en effet, je l’entendis murmurer entre ses dents : « Vivement la guerre ! vivement !… » Ces propos ne laissaient pas de m’étonner alors, venant d’un jeune homme si doux et qu’une boiterie légère avait d’ailleurs éloigné de la noble carrière des armes… Hélas ! elle éclata, la guerre ! Mon gendre, aussitôt, prit volontairement du service et partit gaiement ; il ne devait pas revenir !… Ah ! monsieur ! pardonnez à ma faiblesse, mais je ne puis m’empêcher de verser quelques larmes…
M. Pioutre tira son mouchoir et s’en tamponna les yeux.
— Depuis le jour mille fois maudit où mon malheureux gendre quitta ma maison, c’est moi, naturellement, qui dus m’occuper des bêtes. Mon épouse les chérissait de plus en plus. Ma fille, de son côté, penchant vers ces frères inférieurs ses voiles de veuve, trouvait ainsi l’apaisement de son chagrin et le placement de ces trésors de tendresse et de bonté qui emplissent jusqu’à déborder le cœur de toute femme vraiment digne de ce nom. A vous parler franchement, j’eusse préféré qu’elle fît de la dentelle en bavardant avec les amis de son regretté mari… Mais je n’allais pas, vous le
pensez bien, imposer ma rude volonté d’homme à mon enfant tant aimée et si éprouvée par le malheur.
Le bonhomme soupira profondément.
— Je suis donc à la mer depuis un mois avec mon épouse, ma fille et différents animaux dont trois chiens ; trois chiens malades et qui ne crèvent pas. Ces bêtes répondent aux noms glorieux de Bayard, Lucrèce et Prince-Royal ; mais, moi, je les nomme Hindenbourg, Messaline, Ravachol et je suis encore au-dessous de la vérité. Grâce à cet ingénieux stratagème, je puis les injurier autant qu’il me plaît lorsque je les promène, sans encourir la juste réprobation des foules… Hindenbourg, c’est le matin, au point du jour que, sur l’ordre du vétérinaire, je dois lui faire parcourir une assez longue distance ! Sans quoi, il aurait des maux d’entrailles !… Hein ! que dites-vous de ça ?… J’ai essayé quelquefois de l’attacher afin de me promener librement ou de me rafraîchir avec de vieux amis… J’ai essayé de le battre, de le faire écraser… Toujours je m’en suis repenti ! Il trouve le moyen de me dénoncer, monsieur ! C’est un affreux mouchard, je crois avoir eu déjà l’avantage de vous le dire… L’après-midi, mon épouse et ma fille vont à la plage ; moi, non ! Je sors avec Messaline ; je la promène à petits pas par les chemins ombreux, derrière la gare aux marchandises. Et, à la tombée du jour, c’est le tour de Ravachol… Telle est, cher monsieur, la vie d’un honnête homme quatre fois décoré et auteur de plusieurs mémoires remarqués. Mon épouse prétend qu’il n’est plus de mon âge de nager ; en maillot, je serais, paraît-il, ridicule et quelque peu indécent. Il y aurait beaucoup à dire contre de semblables propositions, mais à quoi bon ? Puisque, de toutes façons, je n’aurais pas le temps de me baigner… Je vous prie d’agréer mes excuses les plus sincères, monsieur ! Je vous raconte mon histoire et mon histoire ne vous intéresse sans doute point… mais je suis un homme assez malheureux et parler soulage.
Isidore dit : — J’ai plaisir à vous écouter. Bien que nous n’ayons pas les mêmes goûts, je vous comprends et je compatis à vos peines. Mais,
que voulez-vous, monsieur, il faut être raisonnable : chacun, ici-bas, porte sa croix.
Le bonhomme montra quelque curiosité.
— Eh ! quoi ! monsieur !… auriez-vous comme moi, dans votre vie, des tortues, des chats, des écureuils et les chiens les plus sordides ?
— Non ! répondit Isidore ; Séraphine, ma jeune amie, ne s’attache qu’aux porte-bonheur en émail bleu, aux échantillons de soierie et aux poissons rouges.
M. Pioutre leva une main vers le ciel.
— Les poissons rouges ! Que ne suis-je poète pour célébrer comme il convient ces gracieuses et sympathiques bestioles ! Monsieur, vous n’avez pas le droit de vous plaindre ! Vous n’en avez pas le droit !
Isidore ne se plaignait point ; il trouva cependant plaisant que ce bonhomme prétendît toujours l’emporter sur lui, même sur cette question du malheur.
— Parbleu, monsieur ! dit-il, tout cela dépend des idées et des goûts de chacun. Après tout je ne vous trouve point tant à plaindre avec vos chiens… j’aime les chiens, moi, monsieur ; j’ai chez moi, à la campagne, deux griffons à poil dur.
A ces paroles, le bonhomme se leva et dit :
— Béni soit donc le hasard qui me fit diriger en ces lieux mes pas incertains ! Je vous prie, cher monsieur, d’agréer mes remerciements anticipés… J’aperçois, sur la plage, un vieil ami qui cherche des coquillages : pour me permettre d’aller librement le saluer, voulez-vous avoir l’obligeance de tenir un instant la laisse de ce brave chien ?
— Bien volontiers ! répondit Isidore qui ne savait pas refuser.
M. Pioutre lui mit la corde entre les doigts et s’éloigna allégrement en fredonnant un joyeux petit air.
— C’est très joli, tout ça ! pensa Isidore au bout d’un moment, mais voici le soleil qui monte ; Séraphine, qui est matinale, ne va pas
tarder à se réveiller… Si je m’attarde trop, elle me chantera quelque chose !
Il attendit longtemps, non sans impatience, le retour de M. Pioutre. M. Pioutre ne semblait nullement pressé de revenir. Près du chercheur de coquillages, il gesticulait, levant les bras, montrant la mer, montrant Isidore, se tournant enfin vers la ville.
— Ah çà ! mais !… Je crois bien qu’ils vont prendre un verre !
M. Pioutre entraînait en effet son compagnon vers une petite guinguette dont la devanture venait de s’ouvrir. Voyant cela, Isidore marcha vivement afin de couper la route aux deux amis.
— Monsieur Pioutre, je vous ramène Hindenbourg, car j’ai par là quelque affaire…
Avant de prendre la corde, M. Pioutre fit les présentations.
— M. Duribouc, propriétaire, chasseur et joueur de manille aux enchères… Mon ami, M. Arrivé, amateur de coquillages.
Alors, l’ami Arrivé, sans plus tarder :
— J’aime moi aussi la manille aux enchères… mais le matin, généralement, je cherche des coquillages… Il y a vingt ans que je cherche des coquillages pendant les vacances… C’est pour ma femme : à la maison, elle en met partout… Elle est très douce ; nous n’avons pas d’enfants.
Il ajouta en riant, sans ombre de méchanceté :
— Ainsi, votre nom est Duribouc ? c’est drôle !… moi je m’appelle Arrivé… ça vous étonne ?… Je ne suis pas pupille de l’Assistance… Ah ! pardon !… Je suis un blond aux yeux bleus. Du côté paternel, j’ai pour ancêtre un charpentier hollandais… Je ne vous dirai pas son nom, vous ne le retiendriez pas… Les Hollandais ont des noms à coucher dehors, des noms qu’un Français ne peut pas prononcer… Alors, quand mon ancêtre est arrivé au pays, quand il y est ar-ri-vé… Vous saisissez ? C’est rigolo, hein ?
— Oui, dit Isidore, c’est assez amusant… mais j’ai un rendezvous important. Messieurs, veuillez m’excuser…
Il mit la corde entre les doigts de M. Pioutre et s’en alla bien vite. Il pensait :
— Je serai en retard pour le café au lait… Bon Dieu de bois ! Séraphine va m’en conter pour deux sous !
Et il n’en menait pas large.
Isidore se trompait. Séraphine ne lui conta rien du tout ce matinlà, du moins dans les formes ordinaires, pour la bonne raison qu’elle était partie. Cependant, elle avait eu la politesse d’expliquer sa conduite. Une lettre était posée sur la table de la salle à manger à côté du déjeuner refroidi. Isidore ouvrit cette lettre et lut :
« M ,
« Ayant acquis de mes propres yeux la preuve de ce que je soupçonnais depuis longtemps, je pars ! Je me joins, à l’instant même, aux jeunes touristes qui vont aux Iles pour une excursion de deux jours. A l’heure où vous lirez ces lignes, je serai loin. J’espère que vous me saurez gré de vous laisser votre liberté, cette liberté que vous employez à des fins honteuses, mais sans doute profitables.
« Signé : Une malheureuse dont le cœur est brisé. »
La malheureuse avait ajouté en post-scriptum :
« Ne pouvant accepter un argent dont je ne connais point l’origine, je n’emporte pour ce voyage que les quarante francs qui m’appartiennent en propre. »
Quarante francs ! mais le seul voyage coûtait trente-cinq francs !… Comment ferait-elle pour manger, boire et dormir pendant ces deux jours ? Isidore pâlit et s’abîma en de tristes réflexions.
— Monsieur ne mange pas ? observa innocemment Monique, la vieille bonne.
Isidore avala son café au lait, mais ce café au lait lui resta en bouillie sur le cœur.
— Mais enfin, pourquoi diable est-elle partie ? Qu’a-t-elle à me reprocher ? Je veux être pendu si je devine !… Le savez-vous, Monique ?
La vieille ferma un œil et l’autre parut vraiment canaille.
— Madame s’est levée de bonne heure et elle est allée derrière vous, vers la plage…
— Eh bien ! après ?… Je veux être crucifié…
— Alors madame aura sans doute vu monsieur qui promenait le chien de l’aut’ dame…
— Quoi ? quelle dame ?
— Une vieille dame millionnaire qu’est inconséquente avec les jeunes gens… C’est ce que disait Madame !
Certes, Isidore commençait à s’habituer aux injures. Il était entraîné et s’attendait au pire. Pourtant cette fois, il demeura béant…
— Tout cela, dit Monique, avec une hypocrite pitié, tout cela est bien ennuyant !
— Vous, fichez-moi la paix ! hurla Isidore.
Aussitôt, il fut étonné de son audace et la regretta. Car, s’il lui arrivait à présent de penser brutalement et par gros mots, il n’en croyait pas moins toujours de son devoir de suivre les règles de la civilité puérile et honnête, surtout à l’égard des femmes.
Mais aussi, Séraphine exagérait, voyons ! Depuis certaine heure de folle ivresse où Isidore lui avait donné en toute propriété et irrévocablement sa ferme du Noyer-Rouge — trente hectares de bonnes terres avec les bâtiments d’exploitation et un pavillon de chasse — cette ingénieuse enfant avait trouvé mille façons inédites de montrer sa reconnaissance. Isidore en avait vu véritablement de toutes les couleurs. Son malheur lui coûtait si cher que, longtemps, il avait refusé d’y croire. Maintenant, il n’en pouvait plus guère douter. A trente-cinq ans, pourvu de rentes solides et d’une âme douce, il
avait, certes, rencontré plus d’une fois l’ingratitude humaine. Il avait fait la guerre en qualité de simple soldat ; emmené prisonnier chez les ennemis, il s’était trouvé, en certain camp de représailles, sous la coupe d’assez remarquables saligauds. Cependant il avait beau chercher dans sa mémoire, jamais il n’avait été manœuvré de la sorte, jamais personne ne l’avait mis si bas ; non, jamais !
— M’accuser d’un tel crime ! oser prétendre que je mangerais de ce pain-là, moi !… malgré mes rentes et mes convictions religieuses !… Et, par-dessus le marché, elle est partie avec quarante francs ! Quarante francs ! par les temps où nous vivons !…
Sacré tonnerre du bon Dieu de bois ! qu’ai-je fait pour mériter ça ?
Ce qu’il avait fait ? Parbleu, il le savait bien ! Séraphine le lui reprochait assez souvent ! et aussi sa conscience depuis que l’affaire allait mal… Pourquoi avait-il abusé de ses avantages physiques pour détourner de ses devoirs cette enfant innocente, élevée dans la crainte de Dieu et des hommes au sein d’une famille qui vivait selon les principes les plus rigoureux ?…
Isidore, il est vrai, avait perpétré son crime sans préméditation et le plus aisément du monde.
Il se revoyait entrant, sans penser à mal, dans une banque pour y toucher quelque argent. Au guichet « Coupons », une jeune fille qu’il ne regarde même pas. On lui remet un bordereau… ça va bien !… Il prend le bordereau et passe à la caisse… Mais l’étourdi a oublié son portefeuille : la jeune fille le rappelle. Il la voit alors, il voit ses yeux candides, si brillants, si beaux !…
Le soir même, la rencontrant par le plus grand hasard dans la rue, au coup d’œil qu’elle lui lança, il comprit qu’elle l’aimait. D’ailleurs, avec l’ingénuité de son âge, elle lui avoua en pleurant qu’elle l’avait remarqué depuis longtemps. Alors, lui, sans vergogne, abusa de la situation.
Depuis… Ah ! depuis !… S’il avait déshonoré la petite comptable, elle le lui avait rendu ! avec tous les intérêts capitalisés !… D’abord, elle avait carrément refusé le mariage ; pourquoi ? le diable peut-être le savait. Malgré cela, elle était venue s’installer chez Isidore, dans
la chambre même où ses vénérés parents avaient fermé les yeux. En pleine campagne, parmi une population réputée pour la pureté de ses mœurs, elle avait apporté ses parfums violents et ses robes décolletées jusqu’au délire. Mieux ! ne s’était-elle point imaginé d’amener avec elle joyeuse compagnie ! Plus d’une fois, Isidore avait dû héberger de petites camarades de la comptable et quelques jeunes lascars, aimables certes, mais sans foi ni vertu et, d’ailleurs, communistes au dernier point.
Les résultats ne s’étaient pas fait attendre. Isidore avait vu se fermer toutes les portes des maisons amies. Sa famille ne le recevait plus ; ses voisins lui refusaient le droit de chasse. Quant à jouer à la manille avec ses pairs en fumant une bonne pipe, il n’y fallait plus guère compter ; car il n’avait plus de pipe, premièrement ; et, ensuite, ses pairs l’évitaient. Si l’envie de perdre une partie le tenaillait par trop fort, il lui fallait, pour trouver des partenaires, s’adresser à des étrangers ou bien à quelques-uns de ces personnages déconsidérés que l’on trouve par tous pays et qui s’en fichent un peu.
Le séjour à la mer, exigé par Séraphine au moment de l’ouverture de la chasse, naturellement, évitait à Isidore la honte d’être montré du doigt, mais présentait d’autres inconvénients non moins graves. L’exiguïté de cette villa Roméo multipliait les points de contact. Nuit et jour, à toute heure, Séraphine tenait Isidore à portée de ses griffes. Avec cela, gentille quelquefois, s’amusant à faire camarade. A ces moments-là, Isidore s’épanouissait, buvant du lait… jusqu’au rapide et traîtreux coup de patte qui le ramenait à la réalité. Guerre d’usure, la plus déprimante de toutes les guerres. « Je le grignote, » disait cet ange aux amis de son ami.
— Mille tonnerres du bon Dieu de bois ! je veux finir au bagne si quelqu’un devine la raison de tout cela ! De deux choses l’une : ou bien elle devient folle, ou bien c’est moi… Enfin ! ça changera peutêtre un jour…
Isidore ouvrit le catalogue d’une fabrique d’armes que le facteur venait d’apporter. Il lut les « conseils aux débutants », compara la valeur des différentes poudres d’après les résultats constatés au banc d’épreuves. Et ses pensées, comme une volée d’oiseaux
nostalgiques, partirent pour la belle aventure… Il revécut les heures incomparables de certains matins de septembre ! d’un brodequin bien suiffé il foula l’herbe mouillée de rosée ! la pipe au bec et bourrée de vrai tabac, il respira ton frais arome, ô lande ! Dans une petite auberge, il but un fort coup et mangea effroyablement !… Pan ! Pan !… Ayant touché du second, il cria : Taïaut !… Vainqueur ! Cyrano !… Taïaut ! là-là-là-là !… et, aussitôt, avec des abois forcenés, les oreilles retroussées par le vent de la course, passèrent comme la foudre deux grandes bêtes fauves, les griffons à poil dur…
Vainqueur ! Cyrano !… Que devaient-ils penser de leur maître, à présent, les deux chers vieux compagnons ? A cause de l’odeur que répandait leur niche, il avait fallu les expulser, les confier à un fermier…
Un attendrissement subit mouilla les yeux d’Isidore. Alors Monique dit :
— Monsieur a bien tort de se faire tourner le sang parce que Madame est partie sans argent ! les dames comme Madame trouvent toujours le moyen de se débrouiller.
— Merci ! répondit Isidore en souriant tristement ; vous êtes une mère pour moi, Monique !
Dans l’après-midi, après qu’il eut mal déjeuné, Isidore alla vers la plage ; puis il erra par la ville, acheta résolument une pipe et un paquet de fort tabac. Solitaire et désemparé, il but quelques bocks à la terrasse d’un café. Près de lui, des messieurs graves, mais mal embouchés, jouaient au bridge ; cela le fit suer. Une glace lui renvoya son image : malgré sa pipe, il n’avait pas grand air ! Alors, pour se faire rafraîchir, il entra chez un coiffeur ; il s’assit en attendant son tour
Un bonhomme dont on frictionnait le crâne continua de parler.
— Il y a des choses curieuses… Pas si fort, mon ami ! très curieuses… les noms, par exemple… Ainsi, moi, pour ne pas chercher plus loin, je m’appelle Arrivé… ça vous étonne ?… Du côté paternel, j’ai pour ancêtre un charpentier hollandais. Voyez plutôt : je suis un blond aux yeux bleus… Mais vous n’y êtes pas encore :
écoutez-moi un petit peu… Mon ancêtre s’appelait… au fond ça n’a pas d’intérêt pour vous, de savoir comment il s’appelait, car vous ne seriez pas fichu de prononcer son nom… un nom à coucher dehors… Pas si fort, mon ami !… Quand il est arrivé au pays, personne ne pouvait prononcer ce nom ; c’était gênant… alors on a dit : le charpentier Arrivé… Et moi aussi, par conséquent, je suis Arrivé… Ce n’est pas une blague, mais n’est-ce pas que ça vous fait cependant rigoler ?
— Oui, répondit le coiffeur ; il n’y a pas à dire, elle est bonne !… Voici, monsieur !
Le bonhomme se leva ; reconnaissant Isidore, il se montra fort étonné de la rencontre, puis bien content. Ils sortirent ensemble.
— Ma femme fait la sieste ; elle dort beaucoup… Moi, je ne vais pas aux coquillages pendant la soirée. Voulez-vous que nous allions vers la gare aux marchandises, chez la belle Auvergnate ?… C’est une petite auberge qui s’appelle ainsi ; on y est tranquille pour jouer aux enchères… Nous trouverons M. Pioutre, probable ! Il nous fera des discours ; il en a dans le bidon, mais il est honorable… D’ailleurs, si nous ne le trouvons pas, Poisramé, l’aubergiste, sera toujours là pour un coup.
Isidore dit en se redressant soudain :
— Allons sans tarder chez la belle Auvergnate.
Vers la gare aux marchandises, ils rencontrèrent bien M. le professeur Pioutre qui marchait à petits pas et se répandait en imprécations contre Messaline. Ils trouvèrent également Poisramé à son poste. Isidore fit monter de la bière ; puis, sans l’ombre d’une hésitation, ils en commencèrent une à quatre.
Isidore, plein d’enthousiasme, prit à 47. Premier à jouer, il abattit une seule fois atout, puis, comme un grand garçon, risqua sa manille.
Ainsi, du premier coup, les trois autres virent bien à qui ils avaient affaire.
— Je vous prie, dit M. Pioutre, je vous prie, cher monsieur, d’agréer mes excuses les plus sincères… Je me vois dans la cruelle obligation d’opposer à la candeur de cette vierge la brutalité d’un atout.
— Ça ! nom de d’là, c’est envoyé ! remarqua Arrivé ; elle est bonne !
Et cette pratique de Poisramé :
— Messieurs, puisque nous sommes entre amis, si nous prenions quelque chose d’un peu distingué… Mélanie, monte du vouvray supérieur !
— Tout de chuite ! dit la belle Auvergnate.
Isidore, à la fin du compte, paya le vouvray ; tout de même, bien entendu, que les autres consommations. Mais il ne le regretta fichtre point, car il s’était bien amusé.
A l’heure exquise du soir, il dîna seul, paisiblement, confortablement. Puis il bourra sa pipe et il lui apparut que Dieu était bon.
Mais lui, Isidore, était-il si bon que cela ? Il fit son examen de conscience…
Séraphine lui avait reproché de sentir comme « un vieux crabe d’étalage » ; mais, au moment où elle parlait ainsi, elle était encore dans la demi-inconscience du réveil… Et puis, après tout, il n’y avait rien là de particulièrement déshonorant ; cela ne tachait pas… Cette expression « vieux crabe d’étalage » ne signifiait rien du tout, absolument rien ; cela ne constituait pas une injure… N’importe quel tribunal eût acquitté la coupable. Et cependant, lui, Isidore, avait soudain pris la mouche. Au lieu de calmer Séraphine par de douces paroles, il était parti vers les sables de la mer, profondément vexé. Certes, la petite avait eu ensuite des torts graves ! mais quand la guerre est déclarée, il faut s’attendre à des excès. Le plus coupable, le seul coupable au fond, est celui qui a commencé.
Isidore secoua tristement sa pipe éteinte et la mit en sa poche. Ah ! si par quelque miracle de Dieu Séraphine eût pu revenir tout à
