TheCraftandScience ofCoffee
Editedby BrittaFolmer
EditorialBoard
ImreBlank,AdrianaFarah,PeterGiuliano, DeanSandersandChrisWille
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TypesetbyTNQBooksandJournals Coverphotograph:
1. TheCoffeeTree GeneticDiversityandOrigin
JuanCarlosHerrera,CharlesLambot
1.WhereDidtheCoffeeComeFrom? 1
2.BotanicalOriginandGeographicalDistribution 3 2.1TheCoffeePlant3 2.2EvolutionaryHistory3 2.3GeographicDistribution4
3.BreedingStrategiesandCultivatedVarieties 5 3.1ArabicaVarieties5 3.2RobustaVarieties7
4.GeneticBasisofCoffeeQuality 8 4.1BiochemicalDeterminantsofQuality8 4.2GeneticsofQuality9 4.3ExperimentalApproaches11
2. CultivatingCoffeeQuality TerroirandAgro-Ecosystem
CharlesLambot,JuanCarlosHerrera,BenoitBertrand,Siavosh Sadeghian,PabloBenavides,AlvaroGaita ´ n 1.Introduction 17 2.CultivatingCoffeeQuality TerroirandAgroecosystem 18
3.EnvironmentalConditionsSuitableforCoffeeGrowing 19
3.1ClimateinAreasofOrigin20
3.2ClimaticConditionsinCoffeeCultivationAreasandCoffee Quality21
3.3PlantSymptomsInducedbyClimaticStresses21
3.4BiochemicalMarkersAssociatedtoClimaticConditions andCoffeeQuality21
4.PropagationSystems 25
4.1MainPropagationMethodsandTheirUsage25
4.2PropagationMethodsandCoffeeQuality25
5.ShadeTreesforImprovedCoffeeQuality 28
5.1BenefitsofTreesonCoffeeFarms30
5.2ShadeandCoffeeQuality32
6.SoilsRequirements,Fertilization,andCoffeeQuality 33
6.1FertilizationStrategyandMethods34
6.2FertilizationandCoffeeQuality36
6.3SoilConservationforSustainableProduction36
7.PestsandDiseasesControlforaBetterCoffeeQuality 39
7.1MainFungiDiseasesAffectingCoffeeBeansandCherries40
7.2MainInsectsAffectingCoffeeBeansandCherries42
7.3EnvironmentalandSafetyConcernsAboutPlantProtection43
8.Outlook 44 References 45
3. PostharvestProcessing RevealingtheGreenBean
JuanR.Sanz-Uribe,Yusianto,SunaliniN.Menon,AidaPen˜uela, CarlosOliveros,JwanroHusson,CarlosBrando,AlexisRodriguez
1.Introduction 51
2.HarvestingtheCoffee
3.VariationsinMucilageRemovaltoImpactFlavor
3.1PulpedNaturalsandHoneyProcessed57 3.2IntestinalFermentation58
4.VariationsinDryingandStorage 60 4.1IndonesianLabuCoffee61 4.2IndianMonsoonedCoffee62
5.ProcessesandTechnologiesforImprovedQualityandQuality Consistency 64
5.1ProcessPrecisiononMicrolotCoffees64
5.2MovetoCentralMills65
5.3WetProcessingUsingLessWater66
5.4DryingUsingSolarEnergy68 5.5UseofAnalyticalMethodsforQualityControl70
4. EnvironmentalSustainability Farminginthe Anthropocene
MartinR.A.Noponen,CarmenzaGo´ngora, PabloBenavides, AlvaroGaita´n,JeffreyHayward,CeliaMarsh,RiaStout, ChrisWille
2.1CoffeeFarmingDuringaGlobalExtinctionCrisis83
2.2DevelopmentandDeforestationFollowedCoffeePlanting AroundtheWorld84
2.3ForestedCoffeeFarms:AProductiveandNaturalEnvironment86
2.4BirdsRepresentBiodiversityonCoffeeFarms87
2.5Sustainability,Agroforestry,andResilienceinthe Anthropocene89
3.CoffeeProductionMustChangeWiththeClimate 91
3.1ClimateChangeandtheCoffeeIndustry92
3.2ImpactsontheCoffeeSupplyChain94
3.3ResponsesandSolutions95 3.4Adaptation97
3.5StandardsandInitiativesHelpingtoBuildResilience intheCoffeeSector98
3.6Coffee’sClimateChangeImpact99
4.BiologicalControlofCoffeePestsandDiseases 100 References
5. SocialSustainability Community,Livelihood,and Tradition
DavidBrowning,ShirinMoayyad
1.Introduction
6. EconomicSustainability Price,Cost,andValue
Je ´ roˆmePerez,BernardKilian,LawrencePratt,JuanCarlosArdila, HarrietLamb,LeeByers,DeanSanders 1.Introduction
2.EnvisioningCoffeeGrowingasaSustainableEnterprise: PerspectivesofaFarmer’sSon
3.PerspectivesonPrice:FairtradeandBeyond
3.4TacklingPriceandClimateInsecurity141 3.5LookingTowardtheFuture142
4.CostsandIncome:ResultsofanInvestigationbythe CenterforIntelligenceonMarketsandSustainability atINCAEBusinessSchool 143
4.1CoffeeFarmMicroeconomics:KnowledgeandBehavior144
4.2DriversofRealFarmerIncome144
4.3OrientingFarmIncomeStabilityThroughFarmer Buyer RelationshipMechanisms145
5.TheValueProposition:ReflectionsontheNatureofValue inCoffee 146
5.1UnderstandingtheValueChain146
5.2UnderstandingAddedValue147
5.3MeaningfulConsumptionandCulturalPerformance150 5.4FutureValueCreation150
6.Outlook:CreatingSharedValuefortheNextGeneration 151
6.1ExaminingtheKeyChallenges153
6.2TheHopefulScience:SolutionsforaBetterFuture155
6.3CreatingSharedValueforaSharedFuture157
7. ExperienceandExperimentation:FromSurvive toThrive
PauloBarone,MichelleDeugd,ChrisWille
1.Introduction
2.TheAdventofSustainabilityStandardsandCertification CreatedaRevolutioninTechnicalAssistanceandTraining
3.WhatDoSustainabilityStandardsAimtoAchieve?
4.MajorSustainabilityStandardsServingtheCoffeeSector 165
4.1MajorMultistakeholderStandardsforCoffeeFarming165
5.DoVoluntaryStandardsDevelopedbyNGOsandCompanies BringPositiveChangetoFarmers? 168
5.1StandardsandCertificationContinuetoImprove169
6.TrainingCourses,Curricula,Topics,andThemes
8. CuppingandGrading DiscoveringCharacter andQuality
TedR.Lingle,SunaliniN.Menon
1.WhyDoRoastersCupandGradetheCoffeesTheyBuy?
5.Adventofthe“Q”CoffeeSystem
6.ExpansionoftheQSystemtoIncludeRobustaCoffees 186
7.EvolutionoftheUgandaCoffeeDevelopmentAuthority CuppingFormandProtocol 188
8.UgandaCoffeeDevelopmentAuthorityRobusta CuppingForm 188
9.UgandaCoffeeDevelopmentAuthorityRobusta CuppingProtocol 190
9.1HowtoIdentify“Fine”RobustaCoffees190
10.FactorsInfluencingRobustaFlavor 193 10.1PlantStrain193
9. TradingandTransaction MarketandFinanceDynamics
EricNadelberg,JaimeR.Polit,JuanPabloOrjuela,KarstenRanitzsch
1.Introduction 205
2.TradingandItsHistory:SettingtheContext 205 2.1HowTradingStartedandWhy205
2.2TheThreeWavesofCoffee207
2.3ThePhysicalFlowofCoffee208
3.TheCoffeeFuturesMarket 209
3.1TheBenefitsofFuturestotheTrader210
3.2MarketParticipantsandHedgingandSpeculating211 3.3APracticalExampleofHedging211
3.4TheMonetizingofCoffeeHedges214
3.5TheChangingInfluenceofMarketSectors214 3.6FuturesMargins,theExchangesandtheClearinghouse215
4.TheThreeMajorCoffeeTerminalMarkets 217 4.1TheICEExchange217 4.2TheLIFFECoffeeExchange217 4.3TheBM&F218
5.DifferentBusinessModels DifferentBuying 218 5.1TheCommodityBuyingModel219 5.2TheSecondandThirdWave220
5.3TheCoffeeInvestor221
6.Outlook 221 References 223
10. Decaffeination ProcessandQuality
ArnePietsch
1.TrendsinConsumptionofDecaffeinatedCoffee 225 1.1WhatIsCaffeine?225 1.2ConsumersandTrends226
Contents
2.DecaffeinationProcesses 227
2.1BasicAspectsofDecaffeinationProcesses227
2.2ExtractionWithOrganicSolvents229
2.3ExtractionWithWater231
2.4ExtractionWithPressurizedCarbonDioxideCO2 233
2.5OtherProcessMethodsforDecaffeination234
3.PretreatmentProcessesforGreenCoffeeBesides Decaffeination 235
4.ImpactofDecaffeinationandPretreatmentProcesses onCupQuality 235
4.1Aroma235
4.2SolventResiduesinGreenandRoastedBeans239
4.3MassLossandWaterContent239 4.4VariousComponents239 4.5OtherEffects240
5.FutureTrendsinGreenBeanTreatment 240 References 241
11. TheRoast CreatingtheBeans’Signature StefanSchenker,TrishRothgeb
1.Introduction 245
2.PhysicalandChemicalChangesoftheBeanDuring Roasting 246
2.1ProductTemperature246
2.2ColorDevelopment246
2.3VolumeIncreaseandStructuralChanges247
2.4Dehydration249
2.5RoastLoss250
2.6OilMigrationtotheBeanSurface251
3.ChemicalChangesDuringRoasting 252
3.1EndothermicandExothermicRoastingPhase252
3.2GasFormation253
3.3FormationofAromaCompounds254
3.4EvolutionoftheAcidity/BitternessRatioWithIncreasing DegreeofRoast254
4.IndustrialCoffeeRoasting 255
4.1RoasterDesignClassificationCriteria255
4.2IndustrialRoastingEquipment257
5.Blending 260
5.1Blend-Before-Roast260
5.2Blend-After-Roast(SplitRoast)260
6.RoastingProfiles 260
6.1DegreeofRoast261
6.2RoastingTime261
6.3ShapeoftheTime TemperatureCurve263
6.4Air-to-BeanRatio264
7.RoastingFromanArtisanalRoastersPerspective 265 7.1TheChoiceofaRoaster265
7.2TheFeel,Sound,andSmellofRoastingandHow ThisCorrespondstothePhysicalChanges267
7.3BlendBeforeRoastVersusBlendAfterRoast268
7.4KnowingWhentheCoffeeIs“JustRight”268
8.Outlook 269
12. TheChemistryofRoasting DecodingFlavor Formation
LuigiPoisson,ImreBlank,AndreasDunkel,ThomasHofmann
1.KeyFactorsThatInfluenceCoffeeFlavorQuality 273
2.FlavorPrecursorsOccurringinGreenCoffeeBeans 274 2.1Carbohydrates276 2.2Acids278 2.3Nitrogen(N)ContainingCompounds278 2.4Lipids279
3.FlavorCompoundsGeneratedUponRoasting 279 3.1FlavorAnalysis279 3.2AromaComposition281 3.3TasteComposition282
4.ChangesofPrecursorCompositionUponRoasting 284 4.1MajorChemicalReactions286 4.2FlavorGenerationasAffectedbyGreenCoffee Constituents289
5.KeyRoastingParametersInfluencingFlavorFormation andCupQuality 291
5.1FlavorProfileandRoastDegree291
5.2Time TemperatureProfile294
5.3PrecursorComposition Robusta Versus Arabica 294 5.4TheEffectofMoisture295
6.KineticsofFlavorFormation 296
6.1Real-timeMonitoringofAromaFormationDuring Roasting298
6.2SensomicsHeatMapsIllustratingFlavorFormation Kinetics299
13. TheGrind ParticlesandParticularities
MartinvonBlittersdorff,ChristianKlatt
1.Introduction 311
2.CharacterizationofRoastandGroundCoffeeParticles 311 2.1ParticleSizeDistribution311
2.2BimodalDistributionandtheNeedforNormalization313
2.3MethodsofAnalysis314
3.GrindingTechnologies 315
3.1IndustrialGrindingTechnology317
3.2RecentDevelopmentsoftheRollerGrinder, andAlternatives319
3.3Postprocessing:Normalizing,Compacting,andClassification320
3.4Point-of-SaleGrinding,orGrindingonDemand320
3.5RecentDevelopmentsTowardQualityConsistency322
4.TheImportanceofGrindingforCoffeePreparation 322
4.1CharacterizationoftheFeedMaterialandItsImpact onGrinding323
4.2ImpactofGrindingonDownstreamProcessing323
4.3AdaptedGrindingforDifferentBrewingMethods andOptimumIn-cupQuality325
14. ProtectingtheFlavors FreshnessasaKeytoQuality ChahanYeretzian,ImreBlank,YvesWyser
1.TheSecrettoGreatCoffeeIsthePeopleWhoMakeit
2.1LossofInorganicGases334 2.2EvolutionoftheAromaProfile334 3.FreshnessIndex
3.1TheConcept336 3.2TheExperiment337 4.Applications 340
4.1Application1:WholeBeansinPackagingWithValve340
4.2Application2:WholeBeansinPackagingWithout Valve342
4.3Application3:SingleServeCapsules342
5.EnsuringCoffeeFreshnessUsingOptimalPackaging
15. TheBrew ExtractingforExcellence Fre´de´ricMestdagh,ArneGlabasnia,PeterGiuliano
1.Introduction
2.AGoodCupStartsWithProperlyRoasted,Tempered, andStoredBeans
3.HowtoDefineIn-cupQuality?
4.WhichKeyVariablesAreAvailabletoModulateIn-cup CoffeeFlavor? 363
4.1WaterQuality364
4.2WaterQuantity;ExtractionKinetics.WhatHappens AlongExtraction?364
4.3WaterTemperature365
4.4ExtractionPressure369
5.OverviewofExtractionMethodsandParameters 372
5.1BoiledCoffee/TurkishCoffee373
5.2PourOverBrew/CoffeePercolation373
5.3FrenchPress/ImmersionBrew374
5.4Espresso374
5.5MokaPot/Stove-TopCoffeeMaker376 5.6ColdBrewandIcedCoffee377
16. WaterforExtraction Composition,Recommendations, andTreatment
MarcoWellinger,SamoSmrke,ChahanYeretzian
1.Introduction
3.WaterComposition
3.1Alkalinity383 3.2HardnessofWater384 3.3UnitsofHardness385 3.4ScaleFormationandCorrosion386
4.ImpactofWaterCompositiononExtraction
4.2IdealWaterCompositionforCoffeeExtraction389
5.WaterTreatment 391
6.AppliedExamples 393
6.1CuppingWithDifferentWaters393
6.2WaterDecarbonizationandEspressoExtraction395
7.ConclusionsandOutlook
17. Crema Formation,Stabilization,andSensation
BrittaFolmer,ImreBlank,ThomasHofmann
1.Introduction
4.CremaandtheConsumer 409
4.1TheImpactofCremaontheVisualPerception409
4.2TheImpactofCremaontheAromaRelease411
4.3TheImpactofCremaonIn-MouthPerception413
5.Outlook 414 References 415
18. SensoryEvaluation ProfilingandPreferences
EdouardThomas,SabinePuget,DominiqueValentin,PaulSonger
1.SensoryEvaluationofCoffee:Introduction 419
2.SensoryEvaluation:ObjectiveMeasurementofSensory Phenomena 421
2.1TasteorGustation422
2.2Olfaction422
2.3SomatosensorySystems422 2.4ConstructionoftheFlavorPerception423 2.5SensationandPerception424
3.TheRoleofSensoryEvaluationandtheSciencesBehind 424
3.1ConductingaScientificSensoryTest425
3.2SensoryTests427
3.3TheClassicMethods428 3.4NovelMethods433
3.5ApplyingSensoryMethodsinaProfessionalSituation437
4.TheExpertCoffeeTaster 438
4.1WhoAretheExperts;DifferencesandSimilaritiesVersus NonexpertTasters438
4.2ExpertTasters:TheirRole438
4.3ExpertTasters:TheirSkills440
4.4ExpertSensoryTestsinCurrentUse441
4.5GradingProcedures441
4.6ScoringMethods442
4.7OtherMethodsforFinishedProducttoEvaluate theQuality444
5.TheConsumers 444
5.1ConsumersAretheOppositeofExperts444
5.2ConsumerPreferencesforIntrinsicCoffeeDimensions446
5.3ExtrinsicDimensionsThatInfluenceConsumerCoffee Perceptions446
6.SensoryandConsumerSciencetoBridgetheGapBetween CoffeeConsumersandCoffeeExperts 448
6.1ConsumerSegmentation448
6.2CommonLanguage449
6.3AlignmentAmongExpertsandWithConsumers449
6.4AnalyticalSupport450
7.Outlook 450 References 451
19. WeConsumers Tastes,Rituals,andWaves JonathanMorris
1.ThePioneeringPhase:Uses,Meanings,andStructures
2.1TheMakingoftheAmerican“CupofJoe”464 2.2TheConstructionofTasteCommunitiesinEurope468
3.PostmodernConsumersandtheQualityTurn
3.1TheSuccessofSpecialityCoffeeintheUnitedStates474 3.2TheUKConsumer:FromTeatoSpeciality480
20. HumanWellbeing Sociability,Performance,and Health
BrittaFolmer,AdrianaFarah,LawrenceJones,VincenzoFogliano
1.Introduction
3.1CoffeeConsumptionforMentalPerformance500
3.2CoffeeConsumptionforPhysicalPerformance501 3.3Coffee,Sleep,andSleepQuality503
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ListofContributors
JuanCarlosArdila,CafexportSA,Vevey,Switzerland
PauloBarone,Nestle ´ NespressoSA,Lausanne,Switzerland
PabloBenavides,Cenicafe ´ FNC,Manizales,Colombia
BenoitBertrand,CIRAD,AgricultureResearchforDevelopment,Montpellier,France
ImreBlank,NestecLtd.,Nestle ´ ResearchCenter,Lausanne,Switzerland
CarlosBrando,P&AInternationalMarketing,Espı´ritoSantodoPinhal,Sa ˜ oPaulo, Brasil
DavidBrowning,TechnoServe,Washington,DC,UnitedStates
LeeByers,FairtradeInternational(FLO),Bonn,Germany
MichelleDeugd,RainforestAlliance,SanJose ´ ,CostaRica
AndreasDunkel,TechnicalUniversityofMunich,Freising,Germany
AdrianaFarah,FederalUniversityofRiodeJaneiro,RiodeJaneiro,Brazil
VincenzoFogliano,WageningenUniversity,Wageningen,TheNetherlands
BrittaFolmer,Nestle ´ NespressoSA,Lausanne,Switzerland
AlvaroGaita ´ n,Cenicafe ´ FNC,Manizales,Colombia
PeterGiuliano,SpecialtyCoffeeAssociationofAmerica,SantaAna,CA, UnitedStates
ArneGlabasnia,NestecLtd.,Nestle ´ ProductandTechnologyCenterBeverages, Lausanne,Switzerland
CarmenzaGo ´ ngora,Cenicafe ´ FNC,Manizales,Colombia
JeffreyHayward,RainforestAlliance,Washington,DC,UnitedStates
JuanCarlosHerrera,NestecLtd.,Nestle ´ ResearchandDevelopmentCenterPlant Sciences,Tours,France
ThomasHofmann,TechnicalUniversityofMunich,Freising,Germany
JwanroHusson,NestecLtd.,Nestle ´ ResearchandDevelopmentCenterPlantSciences, Tours,France
LawrenceJones,HuntingtonMedicalResearchInstitute,Pasadena,CA,UnitedStates
BernardKilian,INCAEBusinessSchool,Alajuela,CostaRica
ChristianKlatt,MahlkonigGmbH,Hamburg,Germany
HarrietLamb,FairtradeInternational(FLO),Bonn,Germany
CharlesLambot,NestecLtd.,Nestle ´ ResearchandDevelopmentCenterPlant Sciences,Tours,France
TedR.Lingle,CoffeeQualityInstitute,AlisoViejo,CA,UnitedStates
CeliaMarsh,ScienceWriterandResearcher,Geneva,Switzerland
SunaliniN.Menon,CoffeelabLimited,Bangalore,India
Fre ´ de ´ ricMestdagh,NestecLtd.,Nestle ´ ProductandTechnologyCenterBeverages, Orbe,Switzerland
ShirinMoayyad,Nestle ´ NespressoSA,Lausanne,Switzerland
JonathanMorris,UniversityofHertfordshire,Hatfield,UnitedKingdom
EricNadelberg,GraniteMountainMarketForecasts,Prescott,AZ,UnitedStates
MartinR.A.Noponen,RainforestAlliance,London,UnitedKingdom
CarlosOliveros,Cenicafe ´ FNC,Manizales,Colombia
JuanPabloOrjuela,CFXRiskManagementLtd.,London,UnitedKingdom
AidaPen ˜ uela,Cenicafe ´ FNC,Manizales,Colombia
Je ´ ro ˆ mePerez,Nestle ´ NespressoSA,Lausanne,Switzerland
ArnePietsch,UniversityofAppliedSciencesLubeck,Lubeck,Germany
LuigiPoisson,NestecLtd.,Nestle ´ ProductandTechnologyCenterBeverages,Orbe, Switzerland
JaimeR.Polit,BeGreenTradingSA,Lausanne,Switzerland
LawrencePratt,INCAEBusinessSchool,Alajuela,CostaRica
SabinePuget,Nestle ´ NespressoSA,Lausanne,Switzerland
KarstenRanitzsch,Nestle ´ NespressoSA,Lausanne,Switzerland
AlexisRodriguez,Nestle ´ NespressoSA,Lausanne,Switzerland
TrishRothgeb,WreckingBallCoffeeRoasters,SanFrancisco,CA,UnitedStates
SiavoshSadeghian,Cenicafe ´ FNC,Manizales,Colombia
DeanSanders,GoodBrand,London,UnitedKingdom
JuanR.Sanz-Uribe,Cenicafe ´ FNC,Manizales,Colombia
StefanSchenker,BuhlerAG,Uzwil,Switzerland
SamoSmrke,ZurichUniversityofAppliedSciences,Wa ¨ denswil,Switzerland
PaulSonger,SongerandAssociates,Inc.,Boulder,CO,UnitedStates
RiaStout,RainforestAlliance,Antigua,Guatemala
EdouardThomas,Nestle ´ NespressoSA,Lausanne,Switzerland
DominiqueValentin,AgroSupDijon,INRA,Dijon,France
MartinvonBlittersdorff,CAFEAGmbH,Hamburg,Germany
MarcoWellinger,ZurichUniversityofAppliedSciences,Wadenswil,Switzerland
ListofContributors
ChrisWille,SustainableAgricultureConsultant,Portland,OR,UnitedStates
YvesWyser,NestecLtd.,Nestle ´ ResearchCenter,Lausanne,Switzerland
ChahanYeretzian,ZurichUniversityofAppliedSciences,Wa ¨ denswil,Switzerland
Yusianto,IndonesianCoffeeandCocoaResearchInstitute(ICCRI),Jember,Indonesia
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Preface
Vigorousdebateswereimportanteventsincoffeehousesofthe17thcentury. Manyofthetopicsbeingarguedinthosedays atimewenowthinkofas“the Enlightenment” werephilosophic,scientific,andpolitical.Inthosedays, coffeewasafuelforengaged,spiriteddiscussions.
Thisbookservesthissamepurposeforanyoneactiveinthecoffeevalue chain.Wehavemanytopicsoncoffeetodiscuss,includingnewscientific advancements,thesamepersistentsocialproblems,andswiftlychanging politicallandscapes.Atthesametime,therearemanygreatideasonhowto makeprogress.Forthisbook,wehavecarefullysoughtoutcoffeeleadersto representtheirareasofexpertise,inanefforttobringtothesurfacetheverybest thinkingonthesetopics.Theirviews,however,arenotnecessarilyreflectiveof thoseoftheeditorsortheirorganizations.Wealsoknowthattheauthors’ opinionsmaydiffer,onefromtheother.Weembracetheseintellectualdifferencesandhopethediscoursehereinwillleadtoamoreinformeddebate.
We,therefore,wishthatwhathasbeenwrittenwillengagethereadertodelve deeperintothetopics,expandtheirknowledge,anduseit,whetherasan academicstudentorasaninfluentialthoughtleaderintheindustry,tofind innovativeapproachesandsolutionstomakeourcoffeevaluechainabetterone. Webelievethatconnectingcurrentissuesincoffeewithamorein-depth academicperspectiveisoneimportantwaytoachievethis.
Weseethisbookasabroadviewcombinedwithanoverviewofscientific advancements.Weofferitinthespiritofdiscussionanddebate,andhopeit servesasasmallrevivalofthatgreatcoffeehousetradition.
BrittaFolmer,ImreBlank,AdrianaFarah,PeterGiuliano, DeanSandersandChrisWille
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Introduction
Ourcolorfulandenduringrelationshipwithcoffeebeganbeforerecorded history. Homosapiens, Coffeaarabica,and Coffeacanephora evolvedinthe verysameplace,theforestsofeasternAfrica.Wecanonlyimaginehowthe prehistoricalromancebegan.Coffeemakingwasnotwelldocumenteduntil the15thcentury,whenitwasaspiritualbeverageintheSufimonasteriesof YemeneveniftheEthiopiansweresurelyenjoyingthefruitsofthelocal Coffea treesbeforethen.
Thefactisthathumansandcoffeehavetraveledtogether.Humanshave helpedthisplantexpandfromeasternAfricatoAsiaandLatinAmerica. CoffeeasabeveragestimulatedtheOttomanEmpire.NorthAfricanMuslims broughtthebeantoItalythroughVenice’sportsduringtheRenaissance,and fromthere,thecoffeehouseculturebegantospreadthroughoutEuropeandthe Americas.Peopleallovertheworldcelebratedthepleasuresofthedrink duringtheAgeofEnlightenmentandthroughmanyculturalmini-epochssuch astheBeatnikEra.Andithasneverbeenmorepopularthannow,duringthe ReignoftheMillennials.
Writingaboutcoffeehascontinuedovertime,andtodaythereisagoldmineofscientificandprofessionalinformationavailablefromgeneticists, agronomists,chemists,engineers,sensoryscientists,historians,healthprofessionals,andvariousotherdisciplines.Scientificpapersareabundant coveringeverystepofthevaluechain.Coffeeprofessionalswritetraining materials,instructions,guidelines,andblogsequallyprovidinginformationfor otherprofessionalsincoffee.
Foratleast20millionfarmersandmillionsofothersalongthecoffeevalue chain,coffeeisnotjustadeliciousbeverage,itiscentraltotheirlivelihood. Bothforthesefarmersandforallthosewhoareinvolvedinthecoffeevalue chain,thecraftandscienceofcoffeegohandinhand.Oneofthecentral themesthroughoutthisbookishowwecancreatenewvalueincoffee,by strengtheningtheinterplaybetweencraftandscience.Butareweusingour knowledgeandresourceswisely?Howcanthisaddvalueforbothproducer andconsumer?And,howcanwebuildonthisknowledgetodrivecoffee forward,sothatitremainscentraltothelivesofsuccessivegenerations?
Asanagriculturalcrop,coffeeisnaturallysubjecttoweatherconditions anddiseases.However,overtheyearscoffeefarmershavealsohadtodeal withsocialunrest,varyingmarketprices,demandforsustainablygrown coffee,climatechange,andotherfactors.Thishasledtovarious
nongovernmentalandnonprofitorganizationsaswellasgovernmentsandthe privatesectortofocusonfarmers,andcoffeeitselfhasbecomeaglobal laboratoryfortestingmodelsofequitableandsustainableruraldevelopment.
Themissionhasbeenbothtohelpthegrowersandtoimprovecoffee productionasaneconomicengineofgrowth.Variousresearchorganizations startedfocusingontryingtounderstandhowgenetics,agriculture,microbiology,andtechnologycouldhelpfarmersimprovequalityandproductivityin acost-efficientway.
Todaymanyfarmers,researchers,anddifferentorganizationsapproach coffeegrowinghandinhand,learningfromexperienceandexperimenting withscientificsupport.Atthesametime,astheyaimtoincreasequalityand productivity,allaspectsofsustainabilityareconsidered.Thisincludesa cleanerenvironment,improvedsocialconditions,andabetterfinancialsituationforthefarmer.
Manydifferentpeopleaddvaluetocoffeebeforeitisreadyforconsumption.Thecoffeeiscuppedtoidentifyitscharacterandquality.Contributionsofthecupper,grader,masterblender,androastereachaddtheir personaltouchtothebean,allowingittoexpressitsaromaticpotential.
However,thisisnotthefullstory.Whengreatqualityisachieved,curious scientistswillaimtounderstandhowitwasaccomplished.Theywillthen furtherexplorethefieldtofindnewopportunitiestocreateevenbetterand consistentquality,andperhaps,toexpandtheflavordimension.Backinlaboratories,researchersgatherspeedinthecomplicatedchemistryofcoffee, decaffeination,waystoextractmoreflavoroutofeverybean,thearcanesecretsofgrindingandroasting,theinfluenceofthewaterusedinbrewing,and variousothersubjects.Engineersplayapivotalroleintranslatingscientific findingsintechnologicallyfeasibleprocesses.
Althoughmanypeopleworkinginthecoffeeindustrymayneverdirectly observethescientificdevelopments,theoutcomeintheformofimproved decaffeinatedcoffeequality,forexample,morepreciseroastingequipmentor improvedextractionmethodshaveoftengonethroughthehandsofmany researchers.Sothecraftisimproving,thankstoscientificcontributionsand technologicalbreakthroughsandscienceandtechnologyislearningfromthe craftsmenbycarefullystudyinghowvalueiscreatedandhowqualityis enhanced.
Intheend,whetherthroughcraftorscience,coffeeisproducedandprocessedtopleasetheconsumerindifferentwaysandthestoryofthecoffeecan furtherenhanceitsappreciation.Theconsumeristheonewhoattributesthe value,bypayingthepricethatisrequested.Butjustlikethefarmer,thereisno singleconsumer.Consumers’coffeeconsumptionhabitsdifferdependingon culture,tastepreference,knowledge,moment,andmanyotherfactors.Butthe coffeeexperienceisnotlimitedbyhabitsandtraditions.Aconsumer’s knowledgeofsustainability,coffeeorigin,history,processing,andflavor
diversitywillnaturallyincreasethevalueofcoffee,whichcanbringbetter returnstothefarmer.Furthermore,whentheyunderstandthepositivehealth implicationsofcoffeeconsumption,itmaymakethemvalueitevenmore. Andweshouldnotforgetthatcoffeeislikeasacredelixirinacup,bringing peopletogetherandfosteringcommunications.Whetherathome,theworkplace,oracafe ´ ,wecongregateovercoffeetochat,pontificate,loiter,and connectwitheachother.
Thisbookcuratescorroborativefactsandexperience-basedobservations andperspectivesfrompreeminentexpertsineachsubjectaswefollowthe coffeebeanfromthefarmtoend-pointenjoyment.Wewantedtoexplorethe richanddynamicintersectionbetweencoffeerelatedscienceandcraft.The scientistsmaybepassionateaboutcoffee,buttheyarecoollyobjectiveabout theirresearchandtheories.Thecraftspeopleandconnoisseurswanttolearn moreabouttheirowntrade,abouttheskillsets,art,andmagicofothersalong thecoffeevaluechain,andaboutthehardsciencebehindthebean.By compilingessaysaboutthescienceandcraftofcoffeebetweentwocovers,we hopetostimulatecross-learningandsilo-hoppingexplorationsamongthe scientistsandcraftspeople,provokecuriosity,andanswerquestions.By providinginformationwewanttostimulatethoughtsonhowwe,together,can helpthecoffeeindustrybecomeabetterandmoresustainablebusinessforall. Someofthemostknowledgeablescientistsandeminentlyexperienced tradespeoplecontributedtothiswork.Wethankeveryoneofthem.Weconsultedwithcolleaguesandmanyotherexpertsinthefield,whoareunnamed butdeeplyappreciated.Oureditorialcommittee,comprisedoftwoindustrial scientists,aprofessorinnutrition,aleaderofthespecialtycoffeemovement,a sagewhohelpsbrandslearntocreatesharedvalue,andaconservationist reviewedeveryparagraph.
HonoredeBalzac,theFrenchnovelistandplaywright,whoissaidtohave consumed50cupsofcoffeeaday,said,“Wereitnotforcoffeeonecouldnot write,whichistosayonecouldnotlive.”Mostofuscontributorsandeditors couldprobablysurvivewithoutwriting,butweshareBalzac’sfamouspassion forthisremarkabledrink.
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