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Hawaiian-Style
PILLOW create PAGE 44
vibrant fabrics
WITH SUN PRINTING PAGE 22
in the spotlight:
FABRIC DESIGNER
RASHIDA COLEMAN-HALE
SUMMER 2014
bandeau
pattern
36 hot
by Tina Lewis Project photo on page 45; instructions on page 91 of Stitch Summer 2014.
From the days of the pin-up model, the bandeau makes a comeback with unexpected modern color blocking. Complete with a bias cut cuff, halter straps, and hidden boning, the bandeau fastens with buttons in the back. You’ll be eye‑catching at the beach in this unique top.
Photo by Larry Stein © Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
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page 1 of 27
cutting layout
SUMMER 2014
44" main 2–6
selvedge
02/08/14
foldline
foldline
Cuffed Bandeau 44” main 2-6
7/8yd
side back (B)
lower side front (D)
upper side front (E)
strap (K)
ff
cu upper front (G)
e
foldline
in
dl
fold
selvedge
© Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
l fo
foldline
si
de
se am
) (C
back (A)
e
lower front (F)
in
dl
l fo
strap (K)
selvedges
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page 2 of 27
SUMMER 2014
cutting layout
44” main 8–18
selvedge 02/03/14
Cuffed Bandeau 44” main
foldline
foldline
8-18 1 yd
lower side front (D)
upper side front (E)
ff
side back (B)
cu se am de si
upper front (G)
foldline
e
in
dl
© Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
l fo
foldline
lower front (F)
) (C
selvedge
back (A)
strap (K)
e
in
dl
l fo
strap (K)
selvedges
fold
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page 3 of 27
SUMMER 2014
cutting layout
44” lining
44” lining
02/08/14
2–6
8–18
Cuffed Bandeau 44” lining
selvedges
selvedges 1/3 yd
lining back (I)
lining back (I)
2-6
lining side front (J)
lining side front (J)
lining front (H) lining front (H)
fold
fold
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page 4 of 27
02/08/14 Cuffed Bandeau 20” interfacing
cutting layout
SUMMER 2014
2-6
2 yds
20” interfacing 2–6
selvedge
strap (K)
e lin ld fo
e lin ld fo
e lin ld fo
e lin ld fo
center back
lining back (I)
Cuffed Bandeau 20” interfacing
lining side front (J)
8-12 2 3/8 yds 14-16 2 1/2 yds 18 2 3/4 yds
upper side front (E)
side back (B)
back (A)
02/08/14
upper side front (E)
foldline
upper front (G)
) (C
lower front (F)
lining side front (J)
ff
) (C
lower side front (D)
lining back (I)
foldline
cu
ff
fold
cu
selvedge lining front (H)
lower side front (D)
selvedge
selvedge
20" interfacing
upper side front (E)
e in dl
in dl
in
e
e
center back
l fo
dl
upper side front (E)
lower front (F)
m sea
l fo
foldline
foldline
back (A)
se am
side back (B)
de
upper front (G)
center back
si
fold
lower side front (D)
) (C
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lining side front (J)
ff
) (C de si
fold
© Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
l fo
l fo
ff
selvedge lining front (H)
cu
cu
selvedges
lining back (I)
e in dl
selvedge strap (K)
lining back (I)
selvedges
8–18
selvedges
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page 5 of 27
M
L
XL
pattern
XS S M L XL
XS
S
SUMMER 2014
Getting Started Basic techniques and terms
M
L
XL
you’ll need to know for the pattern you have downloaded.
M
Cutting lines Multisize patterns have different cutting lines for each size.
Place on fold bracket This is a grainline marking with arrows pointing to the edge of the pattern. Place on the ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS fold of the fabric so that SKIRT your finished RIGHT FRONT piece will be twice the size of the pattern 2 XXxx piece,cut without adding a seam. L
XL
|
Grainline The double-ended arrow should be parallel to the lengthwise grain or fold unless specifically marked as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be diagonal.
|
|
|
|
|
|
© Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document
Darts Dashed lines and dots mark darts. The dashed lines show where the stitching will be, and the dot shows the position of the dart point (signaling the point, at the end of the dart, where your stitching should end).
pattern dots Filled circles indicate that a mark needs to be made (often on the right side of the fabric) for placement of elements such as a pocket or a dart point. Mark by punching through the pattern paper only, then mark on the fabric cut on fold through the hole. Slash Marks A dashed line (sometimes appearing with pattern dots) indicates an area to be slashed. Further instructions for making the slash will be included in the pattern instructions.
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page 6 of 27
S
|
cut on fold
M
|
Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel. 2 If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half, cut two on of fold selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the project instructions if you are unsure. 3 Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold. 4 Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless a crosswise or bias grainline is present. 5 Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric unless otherwise noted. 6 Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to cut out of your fabric and interfacing. 7 Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use pins to secure the corners as needed. 8 Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.
Notches Notches are triangleshaped symbols used for accurately matching seams. Pieces to be joined will have corresponding notches.
L
1
XS S M L XL
XL
Layout, Marking + Cutting Guidelines
XS
S
M
L
XL
|
|
XS
S
XS S M L XL cut on fold
M
Test Square
XS S M L XL
Button + buttonhole placement marks Solid lines indicate buttonholes. A large open circle is the button symbol and shows placement.
XS
When preparcut on fold ing to print the pdf, make sure that you are printing it at 100% and that there is no scaling. Check the settings for page scaling (should be “None”) and check the 2" 2" [5 5 cm] preview to make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make sure that the box labeled “Auto-Rotate and Center” is unchecked (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another pdf reader, check for similar settings). 2 To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square should be 2" × 2" (5 × 5 cm). 3 To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted margin around each page. 4 The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up FOLDS the rows andSKIRT match the ASYMMETRICAL dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together. RIGHT FRONT Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern cut 2 XXxx is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and follow the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern.
L
|
S
1
Pattern Symbols + Markings XL
Assembling Full-Size Pattern Printout
XS
S
RIGHT FRONT cut 2 XXxx
RIGHT FRONT cut 2 XXxx
CUFFED BANDEAU
folding
)
18
3a
© Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
3b 3c
4b 4c
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4d LINING BACK (I) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
2c
CUFFED BANDEAU
2b
SIDE BACK (B) cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
LINING SIDE FRONT (J) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18 folding
BACK (A) cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16.18
CUFFED BANDEAU
LOWER SIDE FRONT (D) cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
CUFFED BANDEAU
CUFFED BANDEAU
LINING FRONT (H) cut 1 lining on fold cut 1 interfacing on fold 2,4,6,7,10,12,14,16,18 lining
CUFF (C) cut 2 fabric cut 1 interfacing 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16.18
CUFFED BANDEAU
2a 1c
CUFFED BANDEAU
UPPER FRONT (G) cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
CUFFED BANDEAU
1b
) 8
16
E - UPPER SIDE FRONT cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
CUFFED BANDEAU
4a XS S M L XL
STRAP (K) cut 2 fabric cut 1 interfacing 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16.18
PROJECT NAME HERE
LOWER FRONT (F) cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16.18
1a
folding
SUMMER 2014
bandeau
cuffed
1d
center back
2d
CUFFED BANDEAU
side seam
3d center back
4e
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page 7 of 27
CUFFED BANDEAU
1a PROJECT NAME HERE
XS S M L XL
CUFFED BANDEAU LINING FRONT (H) cut 1 lining on fold cut 1 interfacing on fold 2,4,6,7,10,12,14,16,18 lining
BACK (A) cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16.18
CUFFED BANDEAU
1b
center back
folding
1c
LOWER SIDE FRONT (D) cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
CUFFED BANDEAU
1d
2a
CUFFED BANDEAU LINING SIDE FRONT (J) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
CUFFED BANDEAU LOWER FRONT (F) cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16.18
2b
CUFF (C) cut 2 fabric cut 1 interfacing 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16.18
CUFFED BANDEAU
2c
side seam
LINING BACK (I) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
CUFFED BANDEAU
2d
16 18
ANDEAU
IDE FRONT bric reverse) rfacing reverse) 2,14,16,18
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
UPPER FRONT (G) cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
CUFFED BANDEAU
3a
(cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
3b
3c
(B) ic verse) cing verse) 4,16,18
DEAU
) 8
)
3d center back
E - UPPER SIDE cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 rev cut 2 interfaci (cut 1, cut 1 rev 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,
CUFFED BAN
4a
folding
4b
4c
STRAP (K) cut 2 fabric cut 1 interfacing 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16.18
CUFFED BANDEAU
SIDE BACK (B) cut 2 fabric (cut 1, cut 1 rever cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 rever 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16
CUFFED BAND
4d