Riddle's Court, Edinburgh

MSc ARCHITECTURAL CONSERVATION: 2012-2013 AC3 Building Analysis - ACO6003 A Building Analysis of Riddle’s Court and Its Green Room Group B Niamh Crimmins Mohit Dhingra Liam Donohoe Lynda Henderson Nikolia Kartalou Claire Sandilands Mary Ellen Whitford Xiaole Zhu

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I. Introduction

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II.

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Historical Background 16th Century 17th Century 18th Century 19th Century 20th & 21st Centuries

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III. The Green Room Analysis North Wall West Wall East Wall South Wall Ceiling Alterations for Victoria Terrace Current Condition

Page 33 36 37 38 39 40 41 42

IV.

Points for Discussion

Page 43

V.

Statement of Cultural Significance

Page 49

VI. Conclusion

Page 53

VII. Bibliography

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VIII. Appendix

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

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Image Credits Historic images and plans included in this report were obtained from various organizations as listed below. Images and plans not listed are assumed to be a product of group effort.

Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland: Figures, 9, 10, 11, 13, 21, 37, 38, 41, 42, 44, 45 Edinburgh Central Library: Figure 7 National Library of Scotland: Figures 12, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 34, 35 Edinburgh City Archives Plan Store: 31, 32, 33, 40, 43 Edinburgh World Heritage: Figure 8, 15 National Art Survey of Scotland: Figure 36 IMAGE CREDITS

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I. Introduction

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I. Introduction.

This Building Analysis Report has been prepared for the buildings which form the property identified as ‘Riddle’s Court’, located at 322 Lawnmarket in the City of Edinburgh and contains the research and findings undertaken by eight students studying for the MSc in Architectural Conservation at the University of Edinburgh.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, wealthy merchants and aristocrats constructed mixed use buildings for housing and commerce in Edinburgh on and near the high street extending between the Castle and Holyrood Palace. Due to the relatively large number of these post Reformation era buildings, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) has made this area a World Heritage Site.1 In the late 16th century, a merchant named John McMorran constructed a dwelling house, or perhaps more correctly two houses, along a close on the south side of that part of the high street known as Lawnmarket.2 These buildings, altered over time and joined with other buildings, are now known as Riddle’s Court – which are all protected with an A listing.3 In terms of building history, as a result of the lack of precise records as to configuration of the buildings along the close over time, but with the certainty that buildings have been altered, joined, and in some cases demolished, there are many unknowns. This led architect and heritage consultant Andrew P.K. Wright, after an intensive investigation of the properties, to state “It is not an easy to site to understand, . . .” .4 Conservation Architect for Edinburgh World Heritage, Fiona MacDonald, adds “Riddle’s Court is a really important historic survival at the heart of the World Heritage Site. We know about some of the past residents, but we don’t know exactly how the building has changed over time.”5 The object of this report is to extend the understanding of the property. Given time and space limitations, this report is not an exhaustive exposition on Riddle’s Court. It is unlikely that any major findings will be added to the very through analysis carried out in the Conservation statement by Andrew P.K Wright on behalf of the Cockburn Conservation Trust 6 without at least a limited opening of walls and other structural components for analysis by and architectural archeologist. However, we have focused our research on one of the significant rooms in the building – the very fine dining room, which we refer to as the Green Room – and it is our hope that the following discussion will add to the volume of knowledge of this room and thus incrementally to the property as a whole.

Our approach in preparing this paper has been multifaceted. All team members have been assigned to research some aspect of the property in general, the Green Room in particular, or properties used for comparison.

We have studied as many historical resources as could be practically located. These include maps, general histories of Edinburgh, historical documents referring to the property, and analyses by others. We have all visited Riddle’s Court. Some team members have measured, photographed, and drawn the visible attributes of the Green Room and other areas of the building. Others members have visited comparable properties for photocopying and study. Research notes have been transcribed and edited into this paper along with relevant photographs and drawings. Through this approach, we trust that the understanding of this remarkable building will be advanced in some degree.

“UNESCO Statement of Significance,” UNESCO, http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/728 (accessed November 24, 2012).

John Gifford et al., The Buildings of Scotland: Edinburgh (London: Penguin Books, 1991), 198.

3 “Listed Buildings Search,” Historic Scotland, http://data.historic-scotland.gov.uk/pls/htmldb/f?p=2200:15:0::::BUIL DING,HL:29242,riddle’s%20court (accessed November 24, 2012).

4 Andrew Wright, Riddle’s Court, Edinburgh: Conservation Statement (Edinburgh: Cockburn Conservation Trust,2008), 2.

5 “Uncovering the Secrets of Riddle’s Court,” Edinburgh Architecture,http://www.edinburgharchitecture.co.uk/Riddle’s_court.htm (accessed November 24, 2012).

6 Wright, Conservation Statement 1 2

I. INTRODUCTION

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II. History

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II. History A. Medieval Town Plan.

Old Town remains laid out on its medieval pattern of a wide high street between the Castle and Holyrood Palace, known as the Royal Mile, with narrow lanes or alleys, known as “closes,” branching perpendicularly from the street. 7 Plots of land along the High Street and the closes have traditionally been relatively narrow and small.8 These closes generally are located on the eastern edge of plot lines and consistency of the east/west boundary width generally aligns from the foreland to backland.9 However, the Lawnmarket area is an exception to some degree with plot lines not uniform in character and dividing the backlands and forelands somewhat irregularly.10 Such is the case with Riddle’s Court and the location for the house to be built by Bailie McMorran.

B. The ‘King James Peace’ From the end of the Scottish political turmoil in 1573 until the English civil war in the 1640s, a time known as “King James Peace,”. Scotland was at relative peace, which fostered significant economic growth for Scottish merchants. 11 The manufacture of textiles, leather, soap, glass, and paper all increased during this period. 12 Exports of Scottish raw materials and agricultural products increased, 13 and Scottish ports were renovated for shipping.14 During the King James Peace, some Scottish merchants began to amass great fortunes.15 C. The History of Riddle’s Court 1. 16th Century The McMorran 16 name appears to be first associated with the area on the south side of Lawnmarket, east of West Bow and next to the King’s Wall with the acquisition in 1558 of property by William McMorran.17 In about 1590, his son John purchased nearby lands.18 The McMorran lands were located on the backlands of a close running south.

John was an interesting character. It is not clear exactly how he began his rise in financial, political and social circles, though he is thought to have been in some sort of financial scheme with George Heriot.19 He seems to have had an early career as messenger to the Regent of Scotland. This allowed him to rub elbows and establish himself with the city’s elite.20 He became an extremely wealthy merchant with interests in nine different ships and business ventures as far flung as Bordeaux.21 In Edinburgh, he was considered “the richest man of his time.” 22 Through connections and ambition, John McMorran was elected to the Town Council, climbing the ranks to eventually become Treasurer by 1591 followed by a promotion to 2nd Bailie in 1594. 23 During these years, McMorran submitted an application to construct a new residence on his property. His application described his hopes for the house to be one of a highly decorative order which would bring about a sense of luxury to the city. This was due to the location being highly visible from the approach to the city through the wall at the aforementioned West Bow (known as the Overbow at the time).24 His intent in gaining permission to build was to resurrect and extend a dilapidated structure on the property which he deemed ‘ane auld ruinous hoose’.25 He was granted permission by local authorities to build 26 and constructed his residence at the backlands of the close.

There are three basic living levels in the McMorran dwelling. 27 The original structure appears to have been divided into two L-shaped dwellings that generated three sides of a courtyard28 formed by the north, west and south blocks of the structures. Measured north to south, the

II. HISTORY

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court is 19 feet (5.8 meters) long and it would originally have been approximately 39.3 feet (12 meters) in length from west to east. The court is entered by a pend under the northern most building.(Fig.1) The south elevation of the north block (Fig.4) , facing the inner courtyard, has a façade composed of three storey harled random rubble with filleted ashlar window and door dressings. The fenestration generally contains glazing configurations of 6 over 6 and 4 over 4, however, there is a 3 over 3 fixed light on the first floor. (Fig. 1) Fig. 1: Pend to inner court

The east elevation of the courtyard (Fig.6) is one storey with attic and a harled random rubble façade with filleted ashlar door and window dressings. There is stepped horizontal coursing below the first floor level. The fenestration has a 6 over 6 glazing configuration. There is a gabled dormer window with ashlar dressings and moulded coping serving attic. This elevation is covered with a monopitched slate roof with lead flashings.

The north elevation (Fig. 2) of the south block facing the court presents three storeys with attic. The façade is harled random rubble. There are three doors at ground level with moulded surrounds and geometric carvings; an exception being the door to the left, which has a square cut plastered reveal. A stringcourse of masonry or stone moulding finds its way over these doors separating decorative masonry thistles and capitals at the upper corner of the doors. Fenestration here has a 6 over 6 glazing configuration in timber sash and case windows painted white and a 3 over 3 fixed light at first floor. A two bay gabled dormer serves the attic with 3 over 3 fixed lights. The dormer has horizontal coursing and moulded copings with scroll mouldings and finials, which originally contained the carved initials of Bailie McMorran. Though possibly an addition after original construction,29 MacGibbon and Ross, among others, assert that this dormer is of late 16th century origin.30

Irregular stepped stone cornicing appears at the third floor level below the eaves. The roof is a natural slate monopitch roof with lead flashings. There is a rectangular stone chimney at junction with east façade and an octagonal carved stone water outlet from chimney. The wall is chamfered at the junction of the south and west facades containing a door at ground level.

In this south block facing the courtyard over a window is an arched protuberance of stones thought to be the remnants of a goods’ hoist (Fig. 5) - a common mechanism used for warehousing in the 16th century.31 This is consistent with the use of period dwellings where commercial activity was often conducted in the domestic sphere and all tradesmen, including merchants, would have overlapped the intimate spaces of their houses with business paraphernalia.32 At McMorran’s house, a goods’ hoist likely used for warehousing in an upper room was only strange in the sense that commodities would typically have been warehoused on the ground level. This would avoid the flooding of leaking ceilings and it is one of the few houses to have seemingly used the hoist to bring goods up for storage at the higher levels. 33

Fig. 5: Possible remains of goods hoist

The east elevation of the west block (Fig.3) presents with a three-storey harled random rubble façade with ashlar dressings and horizontal cornicing. Fenestration is one window with a 6 over 6 glazing configuration and timber sash and case windows with filleted reveals. A date stone inscribed ‘1587’ appears at the third floor window head presumably reflecting the date of construction of the dwelling complex.34 An elevation of the northern façade of the northern block facing in the direction of Lawnmarket appears at (Fig. 7).

The entrance to the pend leading to the inner courtyard door is the large arched opening trimmed in stone. The exterior wall of the north block is harl over rubble.

Fig. 6: East elevation

The location of the bailie’s house, entered only through an arched pend on the backlands of the close, would have been a highly sought after location for the upper echelons of society as it provided not only an extremely private dwelling, but one with the upmost security.35 The house would have perhaps had views of the countryside beyond with its position on a fairly steep downhill slope.36 The Bailie is thought to have resided in the south building from the court.37 An interesting feature of the south block is an internal turnpike stair. A turnpike stair is a “spiral which could be entered at any number of different levels without breaking its continuous flow” and for the McMorran house “had perfectly answered the erratic demands of the sixteenth century structure.”38 The turnpike stair is thought to be original.39 Fig. 2

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Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 7: James Drummond 1850’s drawing of Riddle’s Court

II. HISTORY

II. HISTORY

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On the first floor of the north block at its western side is a room with an extraordinary ceiling consisting of tempera painted exposed beams (floor joists for the room overhead) decorated with double-headed eagles and cherubs.40 (Fig. 8) The figures and ornamental elements are outlined in black, a distinctively Scottish characteristic, but considered “less refined” than similar paintings in other parts of Europe.41 Highly decorative painted ceilings were fashionable for the wealthy and noble classes from the mid 16th to 17th centuries.42 This ceiling is thought to be original to the building.43

2. 17th Century Structurally, the Commission notes several additions to be of 17th century origin.(Fig. 10&11)

Fig. 10&11

Fig. 8: North block tempera painted ceiling

Bailie McMorran did not enjoy his fine dwelling house for long. In 1595 he was shot dead by a local boy during a youth rebellion at the High School.44 The house was left to his brother Ninian but had gained such recognition as a fine mansion that it was used at the site of a banquet for King James VI, 45 Queen Anne of Denmark and her brother, the Duke of Holstein in 1598. 46

One of the most significant additions in the 17th century is an appendage on the east side of the courtyard extending between the north and south blocks. The section rises only two storeys as opposed to the three on the other three sides of the court.51 It has been suggested that this eastern portion of the house was a dwelling for a warehouseman or porter or possibly a “women’s house”. 52(Fig. 6)

Fig. 12: 1647 Map of Edinburgh

by James Gordon

For this century (or early in the following) the Commission’s drawing suggests that the south block was extended southwardly (in the direction of what is now Victoria Terrace). 53 If the Commission is correct, it would be in this extension that the Green Room first appeared.

As remodeling progressed in that century, an apartment in the north block received a new plaster ceiling with rounded castings containing symbols associated with King Charles, II. 54 This apartment has become known as the “King Charles” room.” 55 This type of ceiling, of English tradition, came to Scotland in the early 1600s, and the three dimensionality of the plasterwork became the preferred style of ceiling decoration. 56(Fig.13)

Fig. 9: RCAHMS Phasing Plans

Fig. 10&11: Facimilie of RCAHMS Plans

Another plaster ceiling from the 17th century is located in the southeastern most room on the south block’s first floor displaying motifs of thistles, roses, berries and acorns.

57 With plaster ceilings in some of the prominent rooms at Riddle’s Court during this period, the ceiling in such a fine room as the Green Room, would have likely been plastered. 58

With additions and perhaps demolitions, McMorran’s dwelling has changed, but until drawings produced in the late 19th century, there are no surviving floor plans to depict the building at various points in time. This makes it difficult to accurately date the various sections of the house, 47 though the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland (RCAHMS or “Commission”) has produced drawings in an attempt to categorize the various phases of the building into 5 periods beginning circa the late 16th century. 48 Figure 9 as is our facimilie of the Commission’s plans are colourcoded for clarity (Fig.10&11).49 16

Fig. 13: Block plaster ceiling “King Charles” room

II. HISTORY

Throughout the 17th century, various affluent and esteemed citizens inhabited the former McMorran residence. 59 One of the most prominent was Sir John Smith of Groethal (various spellings). Sir John became an aide to Charles II and was involved in the Restoration. He resided in the north block apartment – and is believed to be responsible for new royal inspired plaster ceiling. 60 As the 17th century drew to a close, 1690 is recorded as the date of a McMorran residing within the property. 61 II. HISTORY

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Even though a very fine residence,McMorran’s house was congruent with other homes of wealthy Edinburgh businessmen of the 16th and 17th centuries. As a point of reference for the study of Riddle’s Court, we used three dwellings in Canongate to compare dwelling structures of that era. These dwellings are known as the Huntly House, the Acheson House, and the Panmure House.

Fig. 14: Huntly House, Canongate

Fig. 15: North block tempera painted ceiling, Riddle’s Court

Fig. 17: Riddle’s turnpike

The Huntly House fronts on the south side of Canongate and was constructed or possibly highly renovated in the 16th century, potentially by a Baillie John Achieson, a goldsmith, and bears an inscription of 1570 reflecting the fashion of owners of this period, including Baillie McMorran, to include date block on their new dwellings. 62 (Fig.14) Fig. 16: Huntly House Painted Ceiling

It is similar in height to the McMorran house being three storeys tall, and is basically constructed of rubble and harl.

It extends to the east on the west side of a close known as Bakehouse Close. Some ceilings in the Huntly House were painted in the tempera style fashionable from the 1570s to 1630s. 63 The painted ceilings in the west room of the first floor in the north block of the McMorran house greatly resemble the painted ceilings in the Huntly House.

(Figs.15&16).

Fig. 21: 1921 View of Panmure House

The Huntly, Acheson, Panmure and McMorran dwellings were constructed by and for prominent and wealthy men of the times. The houses were stylish reflecting the building fashion of the 16th and 17th centuries and the wealth and stature of their residents. They contained many similar features and, if they had been built side by side, would have been complimentary and congruent each with the other. None would have been more ostentatious than the others. 67

Fig. 22: View of Panmure House courtesy of Chris Malcolm

Fig. 18: Huntly House turnpike

Fig. 19: Current courtyard view of Acheson House

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Fig. 20: Current courtyard view of Acheson House

date of 1633 appears on a pediment. This is in similar fashion to the construction date of the McMorran dwelling (Fig.20). There are rose and thistle finials in exterior masonry moldings, which reflect the stylized thistles in the stringcourse of the Baillie’s house. Acheson’s and his wife’s initials appear in dormerheads, another similarity with McMorran’s – though his initials were on dormer finials are no longer visible. Both the Acheson and McMorran dwellings have turnpike stairs, popular in Edinburgh in the 16th and 17th centuries.

(More on Acheson house in Appendix 1).

Panmure House (Figs.21&22)was constructed in the 17th century for the earls of Panmure on the north side of Canongate, originally accessed through Panmure close. 65 It, like the McMorran, Huntly and Acheson houses has three basic living levels and its exterior is constructed of rubble stone with some ashlar. It, like the Acheson and McMorran dwellings has a courtyard, but framed on two sides with a wall making this feature more similar to Acheson than McMorran. As with some of these other houses of the period, it had a prominent resident, in this case, Adam Smith, 66 considered the father of modern economics.

(See Appendix 2 for more on Panmure House).

Acheson House was constructed in 1633 by Sir Archibald Acheson, Secretary of State of Scotland. 64 It fronts on Bakehouse Close across from the rear of the Huntly House. It, like the McMorran and Huntly dwellings, has a basic three level plan and is principally constructed of rubble stone. Acheson House opens into a courtyard (Fig.19) however, unlike the McMorran dwelling, one side of the courtyard is framed by a stone wall. The Acheson family crest is imprinted in a pediment over a stair tower and the construction.

II. HISTORY

3. 18th Century As McMorran’s dwelling entered the 18th century, it continued to attract residents of stature. A series of knights resided in and/or owned the property. 68 One was Sir James Mackenzie, well known as Lord Royston. Royston was a member of the Court of Session from 1710-1744, 69 and in the Edinburgh Directory of 1752 (based on tax records), the land was referred to as ‘Royston’s Close.’ A man whose name is now most associated with the property, George Riddell, 70 was listed as a resident during this time. 71 In general, from the early to mid 18th century, the city saw significant redecorating of 16th century buildings including additions of decorative plaster ceilings and detailed wall paneling. 72 These decorative features are all seemingly evident at the McMorran mansion, especially on the first floor of the south block, including the Green Room. These rooms are noted to have marble fireplace surrounds and moulded pine wall panelling.(Figs.23&24) II. HISTORY

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Fig. 23: Marble fireplace surround and moulded panelling at Riddle’s Court

Wright’s Conservation Statement from 2008 suggests that the panelling and overall decorative schemes of these rooms may be attributed to the period Lord Royston was living in the property. 74 Interior changes were also happening in the north wing of the house. According to Sir Daniel Wilson in his Memorials of Edinburgh, the “King Charles” room was decorated with painted wood panels by James Norie, which he describes as, “Decorated in the very richest style of old Norie’s art; justifying his claim to rank among the landscape painters of Scotland.

Every panel in the room, on shutters, walls, and doors, contains a landscape, some of them executed with great spirit. Even the keystone of an arched recess has a mask painted on it; and the effect of the whole is still beautiful.” 75 76

4. The 19th Century (1800s) As the 19th century began, Old Town had simply lost its luster to the wealthy and was In part, as an urban renewal project, 89 but in rapid social and physical decline. 88 more importantly to improve the flow of traffic in and around Old Town, Parliament adopted the 1827 Improvement Act. 90 Part of the Act was to implement a plan that had existed for several years to improve access to Old Town from the west and south.

91 The plan included extending the Bow from Grassmarket in a gentle arch to a bridge, the George IV Bridge, to be built over the Cowgate valley. 92 This extension of the Bow, to be named Victoria Street, had appeared on a map in 1823. (Fig. 25)

Fig. 24: Marble fireplace surround and moulded panelling from Huntly House

With a mix of tempera ceilings, round casted plaster ceilings, fine wall panels some of which had paintings of Norie, “exceptional interiors make this group one of the best surviving examples of mercantile high life from the 16th century to the 18th century.” 77 In June of 1726, George Riddell came in possession of the lands of the close fronting the Lawnmarket. This acquisition was under an Act in which the municipal authorities could sell property on the High Street at a lower fixed price, if it had been ruinous for at least three years. 78 Riddell, a wright, built the tenements fronting the street most of which currently stand today. 79 In the front tenement adjacent to Riddle’s Close – as the close was then called – the Scottish Enlightenment philosopher David Hume purchased his first residence in 1751 and is said to have written Political Discourses and part of the History of England whilst residing there. 80 He lived happily with his sister, a cat and maid. 81

Fig. 25: 1823 Ordinance Survey plan Fig. 26: Victoria Street overlay plan

The construction of Victoria Street was to have an effect on the south elevation of Riddle’s Court.The entire south wall of the south block was removed and reconstructed to match the curvilinear shape of the street. 93 (Fig.26) The replacement south façade included coursed ashlar sandstone with five basic bays. The level at Victoria Terrace shows seven alternating arched windows and doors; these doors have deep backsets. The level at Victoria Terrace is one level below that of the ground entered from the inner courtyard at Riddle’s Court. This additional level was constructed for shops. By 1837 Victoria Street was complete. 94(Fig.27) The portion of Riddle’s Close opening onto Victoria Terrace became the home of the Edinburgh Mechanics’ Subscription Library circa 1840; 95 a library that once had the largest circulation of any library in the United Kingdom. 96

In the middle of the 18th century, Scotland experienced an economic and intellectual transformation led by the likes of the aforementioned David Hume and economist Adam Smith, historian William Robertson, inventor James Watt, architect Robert Adams, and engineer John Rennie, all Scotsmen who achieved international fame and respect. 82 During this time, the properties along the High Street, or down the closes, remained desirable addresses of the prominent, wealthy and famous. Due to its length, width and general beauty, High Street was considered by many to be one of the great avenues of Europe, though there were complaints about the ‘ruinous condition’ of some of the houses. 83 This was about to change.

Fig. 27: Current view of south facade

In the late 1760’s construction of the North Bridge over the North Loch was commenced as a means to improve transportation to and from the port at Leith. 84 However, this bridge also opened the potential for development on the north side of the Loch, which was generally located in what is now Princes Street Gardens. 85 This area for new development was known as New Town. Upon completion of the bridge, construction in New Town began in earnest. 86 In the late 18th century, there was a pronounced movement of the moneyed interests out of Old Town to New Town. This movement owed in large part to changing social attitudes, which made larger homes with more privacy and wide streets more fashionable. 87 20

II. HISTORY

Fig. 28: 1849 OS Plan

II. HISTORY

Fig. 29: 1851 OS Plan

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The Ordinance Survey maps of 1849 and 1851 (Figs.28 & 29) show the relative location of the south block of Riddle’s Court as it relates to both Victoria Street and the courtyard as it exists today.

While the 1827 Improvement Act may have promoted more efficient travel to High Street, it did little to improve Old Town. Between 1831 and 1861, almost all new houses continued to be built in New Town, whilst the population continued to increase in Old Town. This resulted in the subdivision of the tenements into smaller and smaller living units contributing to over population, a reduction in the value of properties and virtual slum like conditions. 97 Property at Riddle’s Court was no exception to the issue of overcrowding and Census returns from the mid to late 1800’s illustrate an increase in the number of people residing at the site. 98 Notwithstanding overcrowding, there continued to be a mix of uses on the site. For example, a dyer of lace and crepe is recorded at the site in 1875. 99 Similar stories unfolded at Acheson House and Panmure House down on Canongate which persisted into the 20th century. (See Appendix 3 for more on cultural comparisons between these houses and Riddle’s Court).

The increase in overcrowding prompted the Council to lead sanitation improvement schemes in Edinburgh, including the William Chambers Improvement Scheme in 1867, which involved demolition in the backland areas of the eastern part of the High Street to combat “unhealthy” and “congested” areas. 100 The 1867 Improvement Scheme led to a backlash by a number of individuals, including Patrick Geddes, against the loss of historical properties. They wished to see their improvement and re-use – ‘conservative surgery’. Patrick Geddes was appointed by the Council to prepare a detailed renewal plan involving smaller improvement schemes. He was not against some demolition for the good of a building and its immediate environment, if it improved the overall living conditions. 101 Fig. 31: 1889 Mitchell & Wilson plans of internal changes

Fig. 32: 1890 Mitchell & Wilson plans

Geddes later instructed S. Henbest Capper (Fig.33) to undertake further alterations and re-design the layout of Riddle’s Court to allow the “opening out” of the densely developed site to provide better ventilation to buildings within the courtyard. 104

Fig. 30: 1891 OS Plan

In this period (Fig. 30), Patrick Geddes acquired Riddle’s Court and initially instructed architects Sydney Mitchell and George Wilson to undertake some internal changes. 102 (Fig.31&32) The ground floor hall was subdivided for student accommodation and the first floor rooms, including the Green Room, became a dining room and drawing room.

The kitchen and servants’ quarters were created but separated from the student accommodation, at Victoria Street level. A dumb waiter from the kitchen was installed.

Vivendo Discimus (by living we learn) was inscribed above the pend to Riddle’s Court.

This was the motto of his University Halls. Riddle’s Court became a University Summer School (arts and sciences) in 1886 and courses led by Geddes were held every August.103 22

II. HISTORY

Fig. 33: 1892 S. Henbest Capper plans of changes made

At this time, as part of the 1893 Municipal Sanitary Improvement Scheme, buildings located on either side of the close at Riddle’s Court were demolished. This included the rear wing of George Riddle’s “T” building fronting the Lawnmarket, and the north wing of the easterly located McMorran “L” shaped north block dwelling. (Fig.34).

II. HISTORY

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Fig. 34: Plan showing buildings demolished in c.1893

Fig. 37: 20th century image showing changes made

Riddle’s Court, along with other buildings similarly converted to student residencies in the area became collectively known as University Hall. (Fig.36)105

During this period, Geddes instructed local ceiling artists to paint the ceiling in the first floor dining room. This was undertaken by Edinburgh born artists Thomas Bonnar Junior and his son Thomas Kershaw Bonnar and completed in 1897.(Fig.39)

Following the completion of this project, architect George Shaw Aitken created plans in 1895 that involved an external wooden staircase to be installed. This provided access to upper floors to the McMorran north block and included internal and external alterations including the formation of rooms, changes of function and blocking up of doorways. 106 (Fig.35)(Figs.37&38)

Fig. 35: 1895 Aitken Plan showing changes made

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Fig. 36: 1890s National Art Survey of Scotland drawings of University Hall

II. HISTORY

Fig. 38: 20th century image showing changes made

The ceiling charts significant periods in the history of Riddle’s Court to the late 1890s. 107 The ceiling also illustrates the passion of Geddes to engage in education and the arts, improving the well being of individuals and adding stimulation. 108 (See Appendix 4 for a copy of an article published by a student at University Halls in 1897.)

Fig. 39: Current photo of painted ceiling in ‘Green Room’

II. HISTORY

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5. 20th and 21st Centuries In the beginning of the 20th Century, the building became a Church Mission for the United Free Church and latterly, the Reid Memorial Church (1905-1935). 109 The ground floor became a meeting hall and the first floor rooms facing Victoria Street, including the Green Room, classrooms.(Fig.40)

By that time, both Riddle’s Court and Riddle’s Close had undergone a drastic transformation. 111 The property had suffered significant deterioration from the Geddes renovations of the late 19th century. 112 Nonetheless, the Lord Provost’s Committee met in 1946 and considered a report suggesting that the properties were in ‘good condition.’ 113 A report three years later reached a different conclusion. 114 The Edinburgh Corporation purchased Riddle’s Court properties for £1,700. 115 Initially, some of the dwelling units were used for accommodations to tackle the housing shortages after World War II. However, in 1949, some of the properties were made available to the Education Committee. 116 Electricity was installed in 1947. 117(Fig.41) In 1952 (Fig.42), during the early stages of the Edinburgh Festival Fringe - one of the many attempts to bring Edinburgh out of post-war gloom - the Oxford and Cambridge Players performed Shakespeare’s ‘Taming of the Shrew’ in Riddle’s Court.

118 The report from this first performance gives an account of the property as having a theatre, dormitories, kitchen-cum-utility in the northeast ground floor room and even a box office. 119 Another report describes Riddle’s Court as a community centre with floors full of sleeping bags in the upper levels and also notes that the large room on the ground floor could contain an audience of about 140. 120 The Oxford Theatre Group would be associated with the venue for a number of years to come.

In the late 1950’s, Edinburgh Corporation employed architect John Wilson Patterson to carry out renovations of the Riddle tenement on Lawnmarket. 121 In 1961, he submitted plans for renovations to the Riddle’s Court properties, 122 which destined the properties for community and educational purposes. 123 To obtain financial assistance, Patterson put forward an application to the Historic Buildings Council (HBC), that was accepted but some changes were specified. For instance, cement was to be avoided in favour of mortars with lime content and, rather than precast slabs, the courtyard was to be paved in stone flags. 124

Fig. 40: 1903 Internal alterations to form Mission

The Edinburgh Corporation purchased the site in the late 1940s for post World War II flatted accommodation. When purchasing the site, the Council noted that the two rooms at the first floor, including the Green Room, had kitchenettes. 110

Fig. 41: 1st December 1949 Riddle’s Close

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Fig. 42: 2nd January 1952 View of pend

II. HISTORY

Fig. 43: John W Paterson 1961 drawings

II. HISTORY

27

Although it was the intention of the architects and the Ministry of Public Buildings and Works to retain as much of the original elements of Riddle’s Court as possible, in actual fact, this period of alterations had extremely damaging effects as the conservation work had been destructive both internally and externally. The work however was done in accordance with the HBC’s brief. 125 (Fig.44) Nevertheless, some positive outcomes arose during this period. From panels in the King Charles room, over 20 of the 18th century Norie landscape paintings and the 17th century painted beam ceiling in the first floor room were uncovered. 126127 The official opening ceremony of Riddle’s Court took place at 3pm on 14th February 1966 by Lord Provost Sir Duncan Weatherstone. 128 The consensus at the time was that the modern additions to Riddle’s Court were extremely beneficial in terms of the long term use of the properties as educatioal and training centers.129 Riddle’s Court was given an A listing on 14 December 1970 by Historic Scotland. 130 In 1976, Riddle’s Court became the training and resource base for the Worker’s Education Association (Lothian Region), and then in 1988 the WEA established ‘Diverse Attractions’ in Riddle’s Court to promote amateur theatre productions throughout the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. 131 Fig. 44: 1963 Armorial panel intact

In 1996, Mike M. Pryor, the Chief Painting Inspector for Edinburgh Council, undertook the restoration of the illustrated ceiling in the ‘Green Room’(Fig.45). Prior to this the walls of the room had been grey and discoloured and the panelling had been damaged from the leaking of a washing machine from the floor above. 132 The water damaged panels were removed and replaced. (see figure 45 1963 Green Room & figure 46 current state of panelling).

Fig. 45: 1963 ‘Green Room’ before refurbishment

Fig. 46: Current state of panelling

In 1999, Riddle’s Court was featured in the BBC production of Charles Dickens ‘Great Expectations.’ 133 Right up until the early 21st century, Riddle’s Court played a vibrant role in adult education in Edinburgh; however, it was announced in 2008 that the City of Edinburgh Council were withdrawing their involvement and they made plans to close and sell the properties. 134 In 2011, the Scottish Historic Buildings Trust moved its offices into Riddle’s Court and is attempting to keep the property available for access to the public. 135 (Fig.46) 28

II. HISTORY

“UNESCO Statement of Significance,” UNESCO, http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/728 (accessed November 24, 2012).

8 Diagrammatic map of Edinburgh c1150, from Naismith, Wright Conservation Statement, 12 9 Wright, Appendix by R. Tait 10 Wright, Appendix by R. Tait 11 Gordon Donaldson, The Edinburgh History of Scotland: James V to James VII. (Edinburgh: Oliver & Boyd, 1965), 212, 238-239.

12 Donaldson, 244-245 13 Donaldson, 247-248 14 Donaldson, 251 15 Donaldson, 251 16 This family name has shown different spellings over time including McMorran, MacMorran, McMoran, and MacMoran.

17 Wright, Appendix by R. Tait 18 Wright, Appendix by R. Tait 19 John Smith, Unpublished manuscript ‘Notes on Baillie Macmorrans House, Lawnmarket, Edinburgh.’

(Held at Edinburgh Central Library: 1938), 3.

20 Smith (Manuscript), 3 21 Donaldson, 251 22 Donaldson, 251 23 Smith (Manuscript), 3-4 24 Smith (Manuscript), 5 25 E.F. Catford, Edinburgh: The Story of a City (London: Hutchison of London, 1975), 51.

26 Catford, 51. Catford indicates this permission was given in 1591, which is inconsistent with the date inscription on the building of 1587.

27 Even though consisting of two separate but attached dwellings, most commentators refer to both or either as the McMorran dwelling. We follow this practice in this report but refer to the “north block” for the northern most dwelling and the “south block” for the southern most dwelling when a specific identification is needed.

28 For example see Gifford et al., 198 29 Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland, s.v. “Inventory of the City of Edinburgh: Riddle’s Court,” 84.

30 RCAHMS, 83 & David MacGibbon and Thomas Ross, The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland, Volume 4(1887-1892), 446.

31 MacGibbon and Ross, 444 32 D. Bell, Edinburgh Old Town (Edinburgh: Tholis Publishing, 2008), 52.

33 Deborah Howard, Scottish Architecture: Reformation to Restoration, 1560-1660 (Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 1995), 147.

34 See footnote 26 35 Smith (Manuscript), 1 36 Smith (Manuscript), 1-2 37 Gifford et al., 199 38 Bell, 62 39 RCAHMS, Figure 10&11 40 Gifford et al., 199 41 Howard, 87 42 Howard, 86 43 Gifford et al., 199 44 Smith (Manuscript), 4 45 James VI of Scotland is an important historical figure. He ascended to the crown of Scotland in 1567(at age 13 months) upon the forced abdication of his mother, Mary Queen of Scots. He was later crowned James I of England in 1603 soon after Elizabeth I died without an heir. This united the crowns of England and Scotland which unification continues to this day. Much of the English speaking world knows this monarch from the Bible he authorized and that carries his name: the Authorised King James Version.

46 Catford, 53 47 RCAHMS, 84 48 RCAHMS, 83 49 RCAHMS, 82 50 RCAHMS, 84 51 RCAHMS, 83-84 52 MacGibbon and Ross, 444 53 RCAHMS, 84 54 Gifford et al., 199 & Sir Daniel Wilson, Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Times, Volume 1 (London: Adam & Charles Black, 1891), 217.

55 Vivendo Discimus: By Living We Learn (Edinburgh: Worker’s Educational Association, 2007), 28.

56 Howard, 88 57 Gifford et al., 200 58 Robert Chambers, Traditions of Edinburgh (Edinburgh: W & R Chambers, 1929), 77.

59 Catford, 55 7

II. HISTORY

29

Wilson, 217 Smith (Manuscript), 9 62 Gifford, 214 and Sandra Marwick, History of Museum of Edinburgh (pamphlet undated), 7, 13.

63 Marwick, History of Museum of Edinburgh, 27.

64 Gifford et al., 214 65 Gifford et al., 215 and “Panmure House,” RCAHMS: Canmore, http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/ site/132518/details/edinburgh+129+canongate+panmure+house/ (accessed November 24, 2012).

66 Gifford et al., 215 67 Though the Huntly House would have been considered perhaps the lesser of the four. Gifford, 213 68 Wilson, 219 69 Stuart Harris, The Place Names of Edinburgh: Their Origins and History (Edinburgh: Gordon Wright Publishing, 1996), 527.

70 The common spelling for the name is now “Riddle.”

71 J. Gilhoole, compiled by, A Directory of Edinburgh in 1752 (Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 1988).

72 Bell, 58 73 RCAHMS, 83 74 Wright, 24 75 Wilson, 217 76 Over time, many of the panels went missing or were painted over, but during a restoration of the house in the 1960s, the surviving Noire panels were rediscovered, restored and are now on display at the National Museum of Scotland. (WEA Gazetteer, 29) 77 Gifford et al., 199 78 RCAHMS, 81 79 RCAHMS, 81 80 WEA Gazetteer, 26 81 WEA Gazetteer, 26 82 Youngson, 20, 21 83 Youngson, 52 84 Youngson, 62 85 Youngson, 70 86 Youngson, 91 87 Youngson, 266 88 Bell p. ix.

89 Youngson, 175 90 Youngson, 180 91 Youngson, 180 92 Youngson, 136-137, 169 93 Wright, 33 94 Wright, Appendix by R. Tait 95 “Listed Buildings Search,” Historic Scotland, http://data.historic-scotland.gov.uk/pls/htmldb/f?p=2200: 15:0::::BUILDING,HL:29242,riddle’s%20court (accessed November 24, 2012).

96 WEA Gazetteer, 10 97 Youngson, 266-268 98 WEA Gazetteer, 31-33 99 WEA Gazetteer, 10 100 J. Johnson and L. Rosenburg, Renewing Old Edinburgh (Argyll, Scotland: Argyll Publishing, 2010), 3946.

101 Johnson and Rosenburg, 114-126 102 Johnson and Rosenburg, 123 103 WEA Gazetteer, 36-37 104 Johnson and Rosenburg, 123 105 Johnson and Rosenburg 106 Johnson and Rosenburg, 124 107 WEA Gazetteer, 40-41 108 L.H. Rea, “Life in University Hall, Edinburgh,” The Scots Pictorial, April 24, 1897, 100-103.

109 WEA Gazetteer, 10 110 WEA Gazetteer, 10, 44 111 Catford, 54 112 Catford, 54 113 WEA Gazetteer 114 (MPBW report to HBC 23 February 1963 RCAHMS MS/861/3 in conservation statement p. 58).

115 WEA Gazetteer, 44 116 Wright, 58 117 WEA Gazetteer, 45 118 WEA Gazetteer, 47 119 WEA Gazetteer, 47 120 WEA Gazetteer, 48 121 Wright, 59

30

See appendix/figures with 1961 drawings by JWP, see Conservation Statement Wright, 59 124 Wright, 61 125 Formal Opening of Riddle’s Court Lawnmarket, Edinburgh, Monday, 14th February 1966 at 3pm, Edinburgh Corporation Education Department, 5.

126 WEA Gazetteer, 50 127 WEA Gazetteer, 50 128 WEA Gazetteer, 50 129 Formal Opening of Riddle’s Court Lawnmarket, Edinburgh, Monday, 14th February 1966 at 3pm, Edinburgh Corporation Education Department, 5.

130 “Listed Buildings Search,” Historic Scotland, http://data.historic-scotland.gov.uk/pls/htmldb/f?p=2200: 15:0::::BUILDING,HL:29242,riddle’s%20court (accessed November 24, 2012).

131 WEA Gazetteer, 10 132 WEA Gazetteer, 40 133 WEA Gazetteer, 57 134 WEA Gazetteer, 10 135 Scottish Historic Buildings Trust, http://www.shbt.org.uk/ (accessed November 24, 2012).

60

122

61

123

II. HISTORY

II. HISTORY

31

III. Green Room Analysis

33

III. Green Room Analysis (See Appendix 5 for compilation of survey sketches from group.)

The Green Room is the largest room on the first floor of Riddles Court, and is one of three similarly panelled rooms now known as the Patrick Geddes Rooms, which were all refurbished in the 18th Century.

Measured west to east, the room has dimensions of approximately 27.75 feet (8.5 meters) and measured north to south 19 feet (5.9 meters), with a ceiling height of 12.27 feet (3.7 meters).

Fig. 47: Green Room Plan

The room is panelled with a deep skirting and a dado rail, with framed rectangular panels above and below the rail, all, except for the south wall and a portion of the east wall, are generally thought to be from the 18th century. All walls, doors and windows are painted green. The skirting and dado rails stop short of door and window openings and are mitred in towards the wall. The profile of the main panelling is similar throughout. Exeptions to this rule include the panelling above the fireplace and above the door leading to the second, smaller panelled room. The different profiles of these panels suggest a painting or something similar may once have been installed in these locations.

III. GREEN ROOM ANALYSIS

35

North Wall

West Wall

Fig. 53: West elevation Fig. 48: North elevation

On the left is the main door which leads from the 1st floor hall and the main turnpike stair. (Fig.48) The door has a moulded architrave. Here, the wall recesses back slightly and the door is situated centrally within this recessed wall with symmetrical panelling above it and to each side. (Fig.49) Fig. 49: North wall main door

Fig. 50: North wall marble fireplace

There is a marble bolection moulded 18th century fireplace near the centre of the non-recessed section of the wall with panelling to both sides of the fireplace. The panelling is not symmetrical because the fireplace is not centered on the wall, as the room was originally built at a time before symmetry was considered an important part of architectural design. (Fig. 50) On the right is a large door concealed within the panelling which gives access to a cupboard.(Fig. 51) This cupboard houses the remains of a staircase, leading up. (Fig. 52) On investigation of the floor above, a cupboard is situated where the staircase would emerge, with a step down.Historical drawings indicate that a stair once existed here which provided access to the small room on the floor above, overlooking the courtyard. This stair was then blocked up, perhaps during the time that the building was split into multiple occupancy tenancies.

36

Fig. 51&52: North wall concealed door and remains of stair inside cupboard

III. GREEN ROOM ANALYSIS

Fig. 54&55: West wall cupboard door with vaulted ceiling inside cupboard

On the right, near the main entrance door is a slightly smaller door leading to a cupboard. (Fig. 54) The door has a moulded architrave, similar in profile to the main door but slightly smaller. The cupboard is wide yet shallow with a tall vaulted ceiling, which could suggest that this was once an arched recess open to the room before these rooms were remodeled and timber panelling installed. (Fig. 55) This can be seen elsewhere in the building in other rooms.

There is a narrow bay of panelling to the right of the door, and a section of panelling above the door.

The wall bulges out slightly towards the centre.

The southern corner of this wall is rough and uneven.

(Fig. 56) Fig. 56: Southwest corner of room with rough and uneven plaster at corner

III. GREEN ROOM ANALYSIS

37

South Wall

East Wall

Fig. 57: East elevation

On the right is a door leading to the second, smaller panelled room.(Fig. 57) This door has an architrave and generous moulding and cornice above it. (Fig.58) A similar cornice and moulding can be seen on other doors in other buildings, including Huntly House and the main entrance hall of Edinburgh College of Art. The time period for these is unknown, though they would be from a later date than the original panelling in the Green Room.

The door to the smaller room has a rounded profile at the hinged edge, and the hinges are pivot hinges, suggesting that this door once swung in both directions.

Fig. 58: East wall door to adjoining room with cornice and deep panel mouldings above

There are three large 19th Century windows equally spaced along the wall. The windows are not centered on the wall, but the left window is tight against the east wall. (Fig.61)

The room is regular in shape, however, the south facing external wall is not orthogonal to the rest of the room but is on a slight skew. This is due to the public improvement works that were carried out in the second quarter of the 19th Century, including the construction of Victoria Street to connect the Grassmarket to the South Bridge. The north side of Victoria Street overlapped with the original south facade of the building.

The new rear external wall of the house was rebuilt to follow the curve of Victoria Street, maintaining the new street line. (Fig. 62)Internally, the south wall is not curved but externally it is. The three windows follow the outside curve of the wall so the plans of the window recesses differ slightly in depth. (Fig. 47)

The panelling to the right of the door (the south corner) differs slightly in moulding profile, and also the height of the mouldings and dado rails differ significantly from the panelling to the left of the door. (Fig. 59) This would suggest that this bay of panelling (and wall) is from a later date than the rest, likely from the 19th century Victoria Street project described elsewhere in this section of the report. There also appears to be a lintel, and a rough joint in the ceiling cornice above the door. (Fig. 60)

The facade onto Victoria Terrace is five bays, with regular window spacing on first floor and above. (Fig. 62) This is why the three windows are not centered on the room, as the new facade has been designed with external symmetry in mind rather than to take account of the internal arrangement of the rooms and the older internal wall that divides the two rooms.

Fig. 62: View of Victoria Terrace facade. The Green Room is the three left hand windows on the second floor.

Fig. 59&60: East wall showing different heights of panelling to either side of door, and rough joint in cornice above.

38

Fig. 61: West elevation

III. GREEN ROOM ANALYSIS

III. GREEN ROOM ANALYSIS

39

The windows of this facade are far larger, and have larger individual panes of glass, than the windows elsewhere in the building. However, old photographs demonstrate that the windows looking into the courtyard are in fact relatively modern replacements.

The ceiling painting itself is divided into six by seven bays, with a border around the whole. This provides a number of rectangular panels, each painted with a different scene. (Figs. 68&69) In the centre of the ceiling is a larger shape which bears a coat of arms. There are painted rosettes or pateras at each of the corners between the panels.

Several of the panels bear inscriptions, which bear witness to events and dates relating to Riddle’s Court and Edinburgh University. Some inscriptions below relate directly to Riddle’s Court: “EXECUTED BY P.C.BROWNE . Foreman . P.DARROCH . Journeyman . T.K.BONNAR .

G.ANSON . A.CAMPBELL” “REBUILT ABOUT 1580 BY JOHN MACMORRAN, MERCHANT & BAILIE OF EDINBURGH AS HIS DWELLING & WAREHOUSE” “HERE THE MAGISTRATES OF THE CITY ENTERTAINED THE KING & QUEEN & HER BROTHER THE DUKE OF HOLSTEIN “WITH GREAT SOLEMNITIE AND MERRINESS.” 15TH MAY 1598” Figs. 63&64: Photographs showing old and new windows

The mullions and transoms in the newer facade are thinner, lighter sections. The presence of timber shutters to the windows in the room below suggest the windows in the Green Room also had shutters at one stage, however if present, these have been painted closed and the recent addition of pieces of timber around the window frames has hidden where the hinges would have been. (Fig.65)

“RESTORED AS ACQUIRED . S. MITCHELL & WILSON . 1890 . S.H.CAPPER . 1892 .

G.S.AITKEN . 1895 . ARCHITECTS . CEILING . THOMAS BONNAR . 1897” “Restored by M.M.Pryor 1996 for The City Of Edinburgh Council” There is a large amount of flora and fauna depicted in the various panels, and all paintings relate in some way to Riddle’s Court and Edinburgh University.

The mouldings on the panelling between the windows on the south wall also differ slightly from the rest of the room, suggesting a later date of installation.

Fig. 68&69: Ceiling showing details of panels with inscriptions

Fig. 65: Detail of south wall window

Ceiling The ceiling has a downstand beam along the edge adjoining the southern wall, again suggesting some structural work here as a result of the Victoria Street works. (Fig. 66) There are four brass chandeliers hanging from the ceiling.

The ceiling in the Green Room was painted by Thomas Bonnar Junior, and a painted inscription notes that it was painted in 1897 when the building was a University hall of residence. The ceiling is richly detailed. (Fig. 67)

Alterations for Victoria Terrace The roughness of finish at the southern corner of the west wall, along with the aforementioned differences in panelling, lintel at high level and rough joint in the cornice on the east wall would imply a building alteration. This would suggest that this is where the line would be between the original building and the section that was demolished and replaced with the current Victoria Street facade. If you take a line from the southern corner of the east wall to the joint in the cornicing, it runs roughly parallel to the north wall.

Fig. 66: Ceiling with downstand beam adjacent to southern wall Fig. 67: Photograph of Green Room ceiling

40

III. GREEN ROOM ANALYSIS

Fig. 70

III. GREEN ROOM ANALYSIS

41

The floor and ceiling also slope noticeably down towards the south faรงade. This is not surprising considering the huge amount of excavation works that would have taken place underneath the existing building to create Victoria Street, Victoria Terrace, and the shops and cellars of Victoria Street. The Victoria Street shops extend back underneath the house at Riddles Court. It could be argued that a certain amount of movement or subsidence would be inevitable.

The large single room below the Green Room and its adjoining room has a downstand beam below the separating wall between the Green Room and the next room. There are also downstand beams along the ceiling of this larger room which are parallel with the north wall, again roughly in the position noted above where the new facade would join the older building. The downstand beams in the large room below the Green Room and adjoining room also correspond with our estimate of where the new construction joins the old building.

It is apparent that the Victoria Street alterations were carried out while making great effort to preserve the panelled interiors of the Green Room and adjacent room.

Evidence in the room suggests that the floor joists would run north to south and that the downstand beam at the south edge of our ceiling (and the one that sits a bit further in from the external wall in the next room which is concealed by the window seating areas) were installed below the joists to support their ends, before the original external walls were taken down. In this way, the joists were supported while there was no external wall. Then, the old wall was demolished and the new external wall was built. The small gap between the downstand beam in the smaller room next to ours and the external wall will have been filled in after this. The new wall will then have been tied in to the existing floor for stability.

Current Condition The room is in surprisingly good condition considering its changeable use over the centuries. The panelling and doors in the room are in a good state of repair; with some damaged paintwork. The chipped paintwork is concentrated in the areas of higher traffic, at the room access points; there are also sections of mouldings missing in these areas. The windows and surrounding panelling have been well maintained, and the condition of the adjacent panelling may be credited to the possible earlier discontinuation of working internal shutters. The fireplace is no longer in use; this has helped preserve the well intact fireplace surround. The painted ceiling is, on inspection, well preserved. The yellow carpet floor covering is perfectly functional, although it is not thought to be associated with any significant periods of the room history.

42

III. GREEN ROOM ANALYSIS

IV. Points For Discussion

43

V. Points for Discussion

As indicated in the introduction, Riddle’s Court is a difficult site to interpret. There remain many mysteries as to what happened over time to the bailie’s house and why.

Here are a few of the highlights.

• The 1587 date block on the window-head on the west façade of the court implies that the dwelling house was constructed in that year, yet documentary evidence suggests that Bailie McMorran did not get approval to build until 1591. The reason for this discrepancy is not evident and needs further development.

• The lintel of the top floor window on the west façade looks like it could have once been part of a triangular gable above the window, suggesting this was once a dormer window. In addition, the irregular ‘zig-zagging’ stringcourse on the south façade at high level, which returns around onto the west façade, is of such a profile (flat on the top and flashed with lead) that would suggest it was once a parapet to the external wall. Lastly, the roof on the east side of the large gable on the south façade is at a lower level, with the eaves being roughly the same level as the stringcourse mentioned previously. These features suggest that the roof was at the lower level on both sides of the large gable on the south façade.

It also implies that the roof of the west façade was also lower, with the dated window being a dormer that broke the eaves line. The stringcourse would have once been the parapet to the top of the wall. The roof would then have been raised at some point in the past, and the parapet moulding stones removed from most of the west façade. Reasons for raising the roof are not apparent, but may have had something to do with access into the top floor room in the west leg of the house.

• Most commentators accept that the McMorran complex was originally constructed with two attached “L” shaped dwellings. For this to work, an appendage structure extending north from the east side of the north block and fronting on Riddle’s Close from the east would have to have been a part of the original structure. This plan configuration would be required to make this north block “L” shaped. The appendage structure was demolished in the Geddes renovation project. Was this an original part of the north block?

• In what room or rooms was the 1598 royal banquet? From the provisions for the banquet,1 there were two barrels of wine, five gallons and a quart of claret, a barrel of English beer, and four barrels of ale. By any estimate, the beverage order indicates a banquet for a large number of people. The rooms on the north block do not seem large enough for a sizeable banquet. The Royal Commission’s drawings of the plan of the original south block indicate that the Green Room was not part of the original construction. Until date studies are performed on the panelling of the Green Room, the possibility of the banquet being held here should not be completely dismissed.

• There is a drawing of Edinburgh dated 1647 that gives a tantalizing possibility of the appearance and configuration of Riddle’s Court at that time. The Riddle’s Court area is outlined in red on Figure 10&11. We can see from the drawing a configuration consistent with what is assumed to be the original McMorran dwelling layout consisting of a south facing block, a connected west block, and a north block. There is a chimneystack on the east of the south block – where it should be. No east block is shown, but there is a general consensus that this block was not original to the other blocks. The south block would line up almost perfectly on an extension of the Bow to the east in the manner of Victoria Street, which occurred some 200 years later. The drawing contains some reasonably accurate depictions of existing features we know existed such as St. Gile’s Cathedral and

IV. POINTS FOR DISCUSSION

45

• various streets. If this drawing accurately portrays Riddle’s Court, we have its first recorded appearance in 1647.

• There is double-piling of rooms on the south block of the house, between those overlooking the courtyard and those overlooking Victoria Street. Is this evidence that the Green Room is a later addition, or is there some other explanation?

• MacGibbon & Ross produced a plan showing access from the turnpike stair to the private room in the south block overlooking the courtyard at the first. This, in turn, would have allowed access to the Green Room by the turnpike. When was this closed and why?

• Why were stairs extended from the Green Room to the upper floor? It would appear that this floor could always be accessed by the turnpike, but why were those stairs then later blocked?

• The 1889 Plan by Mitchell & Wilson shows the proposal to break through internally to the turnpike at Court level from the adjacent access to the large ground floor hall. This illustrates that the turnpike was initially installed to only serve the upper floors at Riddles Court, until this alteration was made in connection with the University Hall. This alteration was to join the two separately accessed units and provide access to the whole building through a single door.

• Clearly, the south wall of the Green Room was reconstructed as part of the Victoria Street project. This required rebuilding of the interior south wall. The paneling here and on the adjacent east wall to the door does not line up. Is this questionable workmanship, or is there another reason?

• The roof of the north block is flat. This most likely was not original construction.

When and why was a pitched roof removed?

• What is the date of the original construction of the Green Room?

• The finishes to the west wall around the cupboard door are of a lesser quality and lead us to suspect that this section of the wall has been a later alteration, possibly to enclose an alcove behind.

• Why is there such a significant slope in the floor leading from the first floor landing into the Green Room?

•

1

WEA Gazetteer, 17

• Why is the north wall of the Green Room so thick? Perhaps it was once an external wall and the south rooms were added later. The Commission’s phasing plans show the south, east and west walls as later additions to the older north wall Figure 10&11. However, typically older buildings would have been built with thicker mass masonry walls.

• There is an arched recess in the west wall of the Green Room behind a door.

What is its purpose?

• The ceiling height in the Green Room exceeds the ceiling height in the adjoining room on the east by 473mm (approx. 18 inches). The reason for this is not evident. Could it be linked to the removal of a plaster ceiling? (Fig.72)

Fig. 71: North wall section

46

Fig. 72: East wall section

IV. POINTS FOR DISCUSSION

IV. POINTS FOR DISCUSSION

47

V. Statement of Cultural Significance

49

IV. Statement of Cultural Significance The house built by Bailie John McMorran on the backlands of today’s Riddle’s Court is significant for its display of domestic mercantile wealth of sixteenth century Edinburgh that flourished as an “aristocratic quarter”1, at least through the 18th century.

Additionally, the location of the site in the medieval town planning system and its location within the World Heritage Boundary zone, contributes to the immense historical value.

19th century Scottish historians, on seeing the house firsthand, could not help but to remark on the magnificence of the building as a former dwelling place for the wealthy and noble society of the city.

Robert Chambers in his Traditions of Edinburgh notes “its masonry is not without elegance” and admits the house “offers a fine specimen of the better class of houses at the end of the sixteenth century.” 2 Sir Daniel Wilson proclaims this “old civic mansion” to be “an object of special local importance.” 3 And towards the end of the 19th century MacGibbon & Ross, in their compilation of historic houses throughout Scotland, agree that “The Courtyard…is one of the best preserved examples of old domestic architecture remaining in Edinburgh.” 4 By all accounts, the house as it stands today, though having undergone many alterations, retains the grandeur of its essence contributing significantly to the civic, social and architectural history of Edinburgh.

Built by one of Edinburgh’s wealthiest merchants and playing host to the likes of King James VI and Queen Anne of Denmark, the reputation of the McMorran house from the onset of its construction attracted the city’s elite to visit and reside within its walls.

Though David Hume did not reside at the former McMorran residence, his dwelling in the tenements fronting Lawnmarket contributes to the overarching significance of the site.

Since the 19th century, the house has been a hub for intellectual pursuits, being first used as the Mechanics Library and still today as a center for adult learning.

To that end, the site’s renovation by internationally recognized Patrick Geddes in the spread of his highly influential ‘conservative surgery’ town planning scheme (to the adaptation of the house as University Halls and his Edinburgh Summer Meeting program), reiterate the site’s influential connection with both higher learning and historically influential people.

In more recent history, the use of Riddle’s Court during the Edinburgh Fringe Festival hosting the likes of Dame Maggie Smith among other now notable British actors, furthers the associations of well known individuals with the building.

There are seemingly endless features that contribute to the cultural significance of the site; however the Green Room’s features will be assessed for this report.

The Green Room is currently the primary room of the south building and has perhaps been so since its supposed addition in the early 17th century.

Architecturally, three of the main walls have interior features presumed to be 18th century. Important features from this century include characteristic moulded pine wall paneling on the west, north and east walls (including doors to closets) and the marble moulded fireplace surround.

V. STATEMENT OF CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE

51

Fig. 74: North wall, mouldings and fireplace

The south wall of the building reconstructed in the 19th century to the curve of Victoria Terrace is not explicitly of primary importance on its own. However, combined with the engineering scheme of the Improvements Act of 1827 and the care undergone to preserve the interiors of the principle apartments including the Green Room, it should be deemed worthy of architectural significance.

Finally, the Thomas Bonnar Jr. ceiling, commissioned by Patrick Geddes, is of moderate social importance for the room, reiterating the connection of the site to Geddes and his vision for the City of Edinburgh during Improvement schemes of the 1890s. It is of moderate artistic and historic importance as a catalogue of the history of the building and through Bonnar’s family associations and other professional connections.

(See Appendix 7)

1 2 3 4

52

VI. Conclusion

Wilson, 219 Chambers, 77 Wilson, 218 MacGibbon and Ross, 441-444

V. STATEMENT OF CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE

53

VI. Conclusion Bailie John McMorran’s dwellings, down a narrow close from Lawnmarket have a rich, interesting, and complex history.

Royalty has dined here. Peers and knights and persons of great wealth have resided here. As fortunes of Old Town faded, people of low means found shelter under the old ceilings. Students found housing here as a preservation visionary sought viable means to keep historic dwellings relevant and useful. Men and women have sought knowledge in the famous library that found a home on Riddle’s Court. Weary war veterans and their families found homes here.

The complexities of this are site are both fascinating and frustrating for conservationists, without further archeological investigation into its intricacies. For the Green Room specifically, a more accurate dating of the supposed extension of the house southward which created the Green Room and adjacent drawing room is worthy of further investigation. Additionally, more research into how exactly the south façade was refaced in the Victoria Street insertion project might be deemed a priority.

In any case, many of the structure’s quirks and charms will perhaps never be revealed only adding to the intrigue of his historic house.

Edinburgh is known throughout the world for its many buildings with historical and architectural significance. None is more important than the home of a wealthy merchant built over 400 years ago.

VI. CONCLUSION

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VII. Bibliography

57

VII. Bibliography

Bell, D. Edinburgh Old Town. Edinburgh: Tholis Publishing, 2008.

Catford, E.F. Edinburgh: The Story of a City. Hutchison of London: London, 1975.

Chambers, Robert Traditions of Edinburgh. Edinburgh: W & R Chambers, 1929.

Chambers, Robert. Domestic Annals of Scotland: From the Reformation to the Revolution. Vol. 1. W. & R. Chambers, Edinburgh: 1874.

Donaldson, Gordon. The Edinburgh History of Scotland: James V to James VII. Oliver & Boyd: Edinburgh, 1965.

Formal Opening of Riddle’s Court Lawnmarket, Edinburgh, Monday, 14th February 1966 at 3pm, Edinburgh Corporation Education Department. Commencement flyer.

Gifford, John, Colin McWilliam, David Walker, and Christopher Wilson. The Buildings of Scotland: Edinburgh. London: Penguin Books, 1991.

Gilhoole, J., compiled by. A Directory of Edinburgh in 1752. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 1988.

Harris, Stuart. The Place Names of Edinburgh: Their Origins and History. Edinburgh: Gordon Wright Publishing, 1996.

Howard, Deborah. Scottish Architecture: Reformation to Restoration, 1560-1660.

Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 1995.

Johnson, J. and Rosenburg, L. Renewing Old Edinburgh. Argyll, Scotland: Argyll Publishing, 2010.

“Listed Buildings Search.” Historic Scotland. http://data.historic-scotland.gov.uk/pls/ htmldb/f?p=2200:15:0::::BUILDING,HL:29242,riddle’s%20court (accessed November 24, 2012).

MacGibbon, David, and Thomas Ross. The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland, Volume 4. 1887-1892.

Marwick, Sandra. History of Museum of Edinburgh. Undated pamphlet.

“Panmure House.” RCAHMS: Canmore.http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/132518/ details/edinburgh+129+canongate+panmure+house/(accessed November 24, 2012).

Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland, Inventory of the City of Edinburgh. His Majesty’s Stationary Office, Crown Copy, 1951.

Scottish Historic Buildings Trust. http://www.shbt.org.uk/ (accessed November 24, 2012).

Smith, John, Esq. Unpublished manuscript ‘Notes on Baillie Macmorrans House, Lawnmarket, Edinburgh.’ Edinburgh Central Library: 1938.

“Uncovering the Secrets of Riddle’s Court.” Edinburgh Architecture.http://www.edinburgharchitecture.co.uk/riddles_court.htm (accessed November 24, 2012).

VII. BIBLIOGRAPHY

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“UNESCO Statement of Significance.” UNESCO. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/728 (accessed November 24, 2012).

Vivendo Discimus: By Living We Learn. Edinburgh: Worker’s Educational Association, 2007.

Wilson, Sir Daniel. Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Times, Volume 1. London: Adam & Charles Black, 1891.

Wright, Andrew. Riddle’s Court, Edinburgh: Conservation Statement. Edinburgh: Cockburn Conservation Trust, 2008.

Youngson, A.J. The Making of Classical Edinburgh. Edinburgh University Press: Edinburgh, 1966.

Rea, L.H. “Life in University Hall, Edinburgh.” The Scots Pictorial, (Edinburgh Central Library Archives) April 24, 1897.

VII. Appendix

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VII. BIBLIOGRAPGY

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