THE SUSTAINABLE
WARDROBE By ETHICL
EDITOR’S NOTE Welcome to the very first zine published by ETHICL. Our brand is dedicated towards making a positive change on the sustainability of our planet. We are also looking to combat the negative effects of fast fashion on our environment. Using recyclable textiles such as organic cotton along with natural fabric dye, we are aiming to minimise our carbon footprint as much as we can. For our first issue, we wanted to dive straight in and share our knowledge on fashion sustainability with you all. We hope you feel inspired by this issue and join us in our attempts to help the fashion industry become more eco-friendly.
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-Niamh
CONTENTS Introduction...................................................4 How sustainable is your wardrobe? Quiz.....6 Quiz results....................................................9 True or False?...............................................10 The importance of sustainability.................12 Let’s begin....................................................14 STEP 1 - Be picky where you shop..............16 Did you know?..............................................18 STEP 2 - Fast fashion...................................20 Quote & Collage..........................................22 STEP 3 - Sustainable fabrics.......................24 Did you know?.............................................26 STEP 4 - Re-use & Re-vamp........................28 Did you know?.............................................30 STEP 5 - Re-selling & Second-hand...........32 Quote & Collage..........................................34 STEP 6 - Washing your clothes...................36 Quote...........................................................39 Conclusion...................................................40 Thank You!...................................................41 Collage.........................................................42 Quote...........................................................43
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Introduction The fashion industry is growing rapidly; unfortunately what comes hand in hand with this is the increase in greenhouse gas emissions released in to our atmosphere. Something has to be done and changes need to be made before it’s too late. We want to be part of this change, whilst also encouraging others to do the same. The question is, how do we do this? Becoming sustainable is not a quick fix; it’s a lifestyle. It is something which may take time to achieve and maintain, however the end goal is worth it. When it comes to sustainable fashion, garments can be fairly pricey and unless you are in a position where you can replace all of your clothing with new sustainable pieces, it is unlikely that your whole wardrobe will be eco-friendly. Luckily, there are several other ways we can create a more sustainable wardrobe...which doesn’t involve breaking the bank! Unfortunately, the fashion industry can and will never be 100% sustainable, however there are steps that we can take to ensure we are trying our best to combat the movement of fast fashion. Keep on reading if you want to learn what you can do to help your planet.
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5
HOW
Sustainable
IS YOUR
W A R D R O B E ? Before we begin, it’s time to find out how sustainable you, and your wardrobe, really are! Are you clued-up on the importance of living a more sustainable lifestyle or are you looking for some help and a place to start. Collect your answers to the following questions, to see how ‘green’ you already are. (and don’t panic if you aren’t living sustainably yet... that’s what this zine is all about.)
Question 1 - Do you own any items from a sustainable fashion brand?
A
My whole wardrobe is sustainable!
B
I have 5-10 sustainable pieces!
C
Not yet, but I want to!
Question 2 - Have you ever re-vamped a piece of clothing, instead of throwing it away?
A
I love to re-vamp my pieces and change them with my style. I rarely throw clothes away.
B
A few times! But I usually just get rid of them after a while.
C
Never, I don’t know how to.
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Question 3 - Have you ever sold or donated your clothes?
A
Always! I especially love selling my unwanted clothes on my depop account. No need to waste!
B
I often take my old clothes to charity shops, however I’ve never sold anything.
C
No! I didn’t even think of doing that.
Question 4 - Do you use sustainable shopping bags? (eg. fabric)
A
Yes! I always carry some around with me just incase.
B
Most of the time I do, but on a few occasions I have forgotten!
C
I always forget to take my own.
Question 5 - How often do you order from online fast fashion websites?
A
Rarely.
B
A couple times a month.
C
Every week.
Question 6 - How often do you buy new clothes, in general?
A
Not very often! I love new clothes but I try to shop second hand or re-vamp my items.
B
I like to treat myself every couple of months to a new item.
C
I’m a shopaholic!! I can’t help myself when it comes to clothes.
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Question 7 - Do you buy new clothes as soon the trend begins?
A
I usually tend to wait and see if I really want a piece of clothing, before I invest.
B
Depends what the trend is and if I really like it!
C
The minute I see it on my fave influencer, it’s in my basket!
Question 8 - How much do you tend to spend on a new garment?
A
I go for quality over quantity; so I don’t mind spending a bit more on a piece.
B
Usually not much but if I really like something i’ll treat myself to it.
C
I don’t like to spend much, which is why I love fast fashion websites and their discounts!
Question 9 - How do you purchase your clothing?
A
90% in-store 10% online
B
50% in-store 50% online
C
90% online 10% in-store
Question 10 - How many loads of laundry do you do, per month?
A
2-4 loads
B
5-8 loads
C
9-12 loads
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The
R E S U L T S I F YO U ANSWERED MOSTLY A’S
Well
done!
You’re
already
I F YO U ANSWERED MOSTLY B’S
I F YO U ANSWERED MOSTLY C’S
a
You’ve made a really good start,
Okay, so you’re a sustainability
sustainability pro when it comes
and are already making some
newbie. No need to feel guilty,
to your wardrobe! You really
sustainable
regarding
everyone has to start somewhere!
understand the importance of
your wardrobe. Good job! Are
And you’re definitely in the best
living a sustainable lifestyle, in
you ready to take it to the next
place to begin your sustainable
order to protect our environment
level?
journey.
choices
and planet. You are definitely doing your bit to help combat
We’ve
and
It’s important we all try to live
the
achievable changes that can be
more sustainably, for the sake of
made to your everyday lifestyle
the planet.
issues
surrounding
the
fashion industry.
listed
some
easy
to ensure you are doing what You may feel you know everything
you can to protect our planet
Make sure you read all the way to
already, but why not see if there
and the environment. Make sure
the end, and be prepared to take
is anything more you can do to
you read to the end, to get some
some notes! We are providing
help! Keep on reading to find
inspiration
you with all the help on how
out how you can further develop
develop your fashion decisions.
on
ways
your eco-friendly lifestyle.
you
can
to
create a more eco-friendly
wardrobe.
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TRUE TRUE OR FALSE? FALSE? TTHHEE FFAASSHHI IOONN I INNDDUUSSTTRRYY I ISS OONNEE OOFF TTHHEE MMOOSSTT PPOOLLLLUUTTI INNGG I INNDDUUSSTTRRI IEESS I INN TTHHEE W WOORRLLDD
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It’s true. The fashion industry is the second most polluting industry in the world, after the oil industry. The amount of greenhouse gas emissions that are produced as a result of fashion, makes up more than the amount for all international flights and maritime shipping combined. 23kg of greenhouse gases are generated for each kilo of fabric produced. As well as this, the fashion industry is also the second biggest consumer of water, consuming a huge total of 20% of wastewater. Textiles treatment and dying has contributed massively to this pollution. And it doesn’t stop there... ... Because of the fashion industry, 200,000 tons of dyes are lost to effluents each year. 190,000 tons of textile microplastic fibers end up in the oceans every year. 70 millions oil barrels are used each year to produce polyester and 70 million trees are cut down each year to make our clothes. If changes are not being made, the fashion industry will continue to harm our environment. We all must be mindful of this whilst shopping in the future.
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The The
importance of of Sustainability sustain ability Importance
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So... WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO BE SUSTAINABLE? It’s important we learn just what it means to be sustainable before we continue. A brief description of sustainability is: “Meeting our own needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.”
WHY IS IT SO IMPORTANT TO BE SUSTAINABLE? Living a sustainable lifestyle is so important nowadays, as we haven’t done so for a long period of time, and it has definitely caught up with us and our planet. It is crucial that we start to take matters in to our own hands and make better choices before it is too late. We must protect the environment from further damage for not only ourselves, but for the future generations.
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B
B 14
LET’S LET’S BEGIN BEGLET’S i N BEGIN 15
STEP 1 BE
PICKY
WHERE
YOU
SHOP The most obvious way to have a more sustainable wardrobe is to shop from sustainable fashion brands. Sustainable pieces are often made with high-quality materials that will stand the test of time, therefore are worth the investment More and more brands are aiming to become sustainable in the future, but let’s take a look at some which have already nailed it.
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Smaller, independant fashion brands are also taking a stance against fast fashion by creating clothes in a more sustainable way. Some of these brands growing in popularity due to their ethical decisions include:
Big brands often make pledges to be more sustainable, however this can take a very long amount of time to achieve. Brands which have already done this include:
PANGAIA Pangaia is a materials science company, who are on a mission to save the environment. They design products for living in, for any situation and for basic needs. The products are created with smart technology and as many sustainable & recyclable elements as possible are used. Their range uses bio-based, recycled fibres and materials made from recycled plastic bottles. They combine natural botanical dyes made from natural sources such as plants, with innovative antibacterial peppermint to stay fresh for longer.
LUCY & YAK Lucy & Yak is an independant, sustainable clothing brand. Their values include creating fabulous, high quality clothes and products that they love, to always be working towards a positive environmental impact and to ultimately give back more than they take out. They believe that: “All cotton, hemp and linen we use must be certified organic to ensure that we maintain a transparent supply chain.”
WE ARE WE WEAR
STELLA MCCARTNEY
We Are We Wear is a swimwear brand offering a huge range of sizes. As well as this, they are also offering a sustainable approach to fashion. They do this by using fabric which is made in Italy from unwanted waste materials such as fishing nets, industrial plastics and fabric scraps.
Stella McCartney mixes sustainable and ethical fashion, with luxury. Since the launch of her fashion house in 2001, she is one of the pioneers of eco-friendly fashion and offers sustainable wardrobe alternatives. The fabrics and textiles she uses include organic cotton and ethically sourced wool.
“Created by women…for REAL women. Welcome to ‘WE ARE WE WEAR.’”
“We challenge and push boundaries to make luxurious products in a way that is fit for the world we live in today and the future: beautiful and sustainable.”
HOUSE OF SUNNY House of Sunny is another independant sustainable fashion brand which uses recycled materials. Zero waste in their goal.
LEVI’S For Levi’s, it’s about making better choices regarding fashion. Such as sourcing more sustainable materials and finding ways to use less water. ”Since 1873, we’ve made timeless clothes that are built to endure. But clothes shouldn’t come at the expense of the environment. The global climate crisis is happening now (and fast). As temperatures and sea levels rise, our designers are radically altering the way our iconic styles are made, and always moving toward more sustainable design practices.”
“We pride ourselves on producing small sustainable runs of collections, acting against fast fashion. Producing two seasonal collections a year sets the design team at a slower pace, allowing us time to research then source sustainable fabrics and manufacturing methods. We are committed to creating quality garments, which last and can be worn season after season.”
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Did YOU You KNOW? Know? DID
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Did you know that?
The clothing brand Patagonia was the first to make
polyester fleece out of plastic bottles.
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STEP2 AVOID FAST FASHION WEBSITES 20
Sustainable fashion brands respond to the sustainability movement by creating clothes, shoes, accessories and other textiles, under sustainable measures that will support these factors. For us, the consumer, we must begin to think about where we are purchasing our clothes from; researching in to brands to find out if they are considering fashion sustainability. An area of the fashion industry that definitely does not consider sustainability, are online fast fashion stores. Fast fashion refers to cheaply produced and priced garments that copy the latest catwalk looks and get produced extremely quickly in order to gain on current fashion trends. Fashion production already has a detrimental effect on the environment, however fast fashion takes this to a new level. Environmental impacts of fast fashion include the reduction of non-renewable sources, emission of greenhouse gases and the use of massive amounts of water and energy. The fashion industry is the second largest consumer industry of water, requiring around 700 gallons to produce one cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons to produce just one pair of jeans. On top of all of this, brands also use synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon and acrylic which take hundreds of years to biodegrade. A 2017 report from the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) estimated that 35% of all microplastics, tiny pieces of nonbiodegradable plastic, in the ocean come from the laundering of synthetic textiles like polyester.
These very few examples clearly demonstrate just how destructive fashion production really is; especially fast fashion production. As fast fashion is becoming more advanced, clothes are becoming even cheaper, the quality of garments is getting worse and whilst these prices are dropping, fashion trends are accelerating. This means the cycle will just repeat and repeat as it gives people an incentive to buy more clothes to keep up with the trends. The issue with the fast fashion system is that the majority of garments are just added to landfill or get incinerated; they are rarely recycled as they have not been made with recyclable materials. Pieces of clothing can take as long as 200 years to decompose, therefore our planet is getting polluted by an increased amount of un-organic material each and every day.
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To reduce this, we can help by limiting the amount we purchase from online fast fashion stores; or even better, stopping all together. Choose quality (and our planet) over quantity, always.
“ Cheap fashion is really far from that. It may be cheap in terms of the financial cost, but very expensive when it comes to the environment and the cost of human life. - Sass Brown
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“
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S
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STEP 3 PAY PAY ATTENTION ATTENTION TO TO THE THE FABRICS FABRICS USED USED FOR FOR YOUR YOUR GARMENTS... GARMENTS... A crucial part in shopping sustainably, is making sure we check which fabrics have been used within the garments. Choosing sustainable fabrics is one of the first, and easiest things we can do to make our wardrobes more eco-friendly.
The next sustainable fabric we should look out for is organic hemp. Hemp can be used as a food, a building material, in cosmetics and it has been cultivated and used for hundreds of years as a fabric. One great thing about hemp is that it’s grown all around the world and it requires very little water, no pesticides, and naturally fertilises the soil it grows in; making it much better for the environment than other crops. This fibre helps keep you warm in winter and cool in summer, and gets softer the more you wash it. Because of this, the fabric has become widely popular in the fashion industry.
A very popular sustainable fabric is organic cotton. Cotton is one of the most common and most used fabrics. This natural fibre is light and breathable which makes it a wardrobe staple. But growing cotton can be problematic. Conventional cotton is one of the thirstiest and most chemicalintensive crops to grow. It requires a lot of pesticides and as a result, has a negative impact on the planet, and the people who grow it. Organic cotton, a more sustainable alternative to conventional cotton, has been booming in the last few years. It aims to minimise the environmental impact of cotton production by trying to remove harmful pesticides and other chemicals from the production process. If you’re looking for the most sustainable cotton, however, go recycled. Recycled or upcycled cotton is made using postindustrial and post-consumer cotton waste. According to the Higg Materials Sustainability Index, recycled cotton is a more sustainable alternative to both conventional and organic cotton. It has the potential to help reduce water and energy consumption, as well as help keep cotton clothes out of landfill – which is why we consider it one of the most sustainable fibres on the market.
Finally, we have organic linen. Linen is another natural fibre we’ve been growing for centuries. Similar to hemp, it’s derived from a very versatile crop: the flax plant. Linen requires minimal water and pesticides, and even grows in poor quality soil. Also, every part of the plant is used, so nothing is wasted. Linen is strong, naturally moth resistant, and, when untreated (i.e. not dyed), fully biodegradable. In addition to being good for the planet, it is also light and can withstand high temperatures, absorbing moisture without holding bacteria. Look out for these fabrics when shopping in the future! They will definitely make your wardrobe more eco-friendly and can potentially help save the future of our planet.
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Did YOU You KNOW? Know? DID
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Did you know that?
By 2030 , it’s expected that there will be 148
million
tons of f a s h i o n
waste.
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STEP4 REUSE AND REVAMP 28
Our next top tip for a sustainable wardrobe is to RE-USE and RE-VAMP your clothing. Unless your garment is destroyed or completely un-fixable; nothing should be thrown away. By 2030, it’s expected that there will be 148 million tons of fashion waste. We need to prevent this, and that can be done by re-using and re-vamping our pieces.
First of all, get in to the mind set of ‘REPAIR BEFORE YOU REPLACE.’ Any small rips, holes or missing buttons, for example can easily be fixed. These small rips can also inspire a re-vamp of your piece! Make that small rip in your jeans bigger! It will give an edgy and distressed look. If you lose a button on your top, replace it with a different one! It can give the item a whole new vibe.
“REDISCOVER THE CONNECTION YOU HAVE WITH THE CLOTHING YOU ALREADY OWN. START A LOVE STORY WITH A PIECE OF CLOTHING THAT NEEDS A NEW LIFE, EMBROIDER INTO IT AND REDEFINE WHAT NEW MEANS TO YOU!” - Jemma Finch (of Stories Behind Things)
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Did YOU You KNOW? Know? DID
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Did you know that?
15
Only
percent
of c o n s u m e r s
r e c y c l e their used clothing.
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STEP 5 Re Selling &
Shopping Secondhand Re-selling your clothes and shopping secondhand, are two of our personal favourite hacks for creating a more sustainable wardrobe. It’s such an easy and cost-effective way to recycle unwanted clothes which need a new home. Take a look at our top tips for selling and buying second hand...
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SO, SO, WHAT WHAT ARE ARE THE THE BENEFITS BENEFITS OF OF RE-SELLING RE-SELLING & & BUYING BUYING SECOND SECOND HAND... HAND... 1. Reduces environmental impact 2 . S ave s yo u l o a d s of m o n ey £ £ 3. Doesn’t promote exploitative work conditions 4 . Yo u r u n i q u e v i n t a g e s t y l e l o o k s m o r e a u t h e n t i c
BENEFITS BENEFITS ::
TOP TOP TIPS TIPS ::
- Buying second-hand clothing helps lower the overall demand for new clothing to be produced, which will obviously benefit the environment as you are helping to recycle useful items that might otherwise end up discarded in landfills.
BUYING - If you’re looking for a safe and secure place to buy second-hand garments, we can definitely recommend Depop. Depop is a social shopping app where you can buy pre-loved, vintage or designer items from anyone around the world. It’s so easy to navigate and you will for sure find what you’re looking for! Not to mention the huge bargains you can often find on the app!
- Another reason why buying clothes second-hand is so beneficial is that is will save you so much money! You can get some real bargains from huge, potentially expensive brands that have only been worn a handful of times, and no longer wanted by the original owner.
SELLING - On the other hand, Depop is also highly successful if you’re looking to sell your clothes. With 21 million+ users worldwide, there will be someone who will want to buy your unwanted pieces. Some tips for selling on Depop:
- Many of your clothes are most likely manufactured in extremely poor conditions where workers produce clothing for more than 12 hours a day for a disgustingly small wage. Buying second-hand will not have an immediate impact on poor working conditions, but it may help send the message that the fashion retail industries need to rethink their strategy.
- Include several good, high quality photos to promote each garment. - Provide good descriptions of items you are selling. - Use relevant and popular tags for each piece so buyers can easily find it.
- Finally, second-hand clothing can give you a really unique and individual style and you can find some real one of a kind pieces which no one else will have.
- Keep active on your page! Follow others and like their posts. - Only ever accept payment through PayPal to avoid scammers.
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“ As
consumers,
we
have so much power to change the world by just being careful in what we buy. - Vivienne Westwood
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“
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S T E P 6
WASHWASHING ING your your C L O T H E S CLOTHES
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You may not have expected our final step towards a more sustainable wardrobe... it involves your washing machine! Who would have thought that washing your clothes would affect the sustainability of our planet, but it does! Research by the Energy Saving Trust has shown that laundering accounts for 60–80% of a garment’s total environmental impact, so you can significantly reduce your impact even by washing your clothes after every few wears. Washing less often not only uses less energy and water, it also helps your clothing last longer, which is always a positive. Use cold water to wash your clothes, use the shortest cycles possible, air dry your clothes as much as possible, and don’t use your machines during peak energy usage hours, for example afternoons and evenings.
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AND THERE ARE YOUR 6 STEPS TOWARDS A MORE SUSTAINABLE WARDROBE Will you try any of them?
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“ What if we started by slowing down and not consuming so much stuff,
just
because
it’s there and cheap and
available.
amazing
how
It’s that
process makes sense financially, it makes sense
ethically,
and it makes sense environmentally.
“
- Andrew Morgan (filmmaker and director)
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If you’re still here...thank you! Thank you for caring about your carbon footprint and thank you for taking time to learn about the sustainability movement. We hope you feel as though you have some more knowledge on fashion sustainability, the issues with fast fashion and what YOU can do to help our ever-evolving planet. It’s so important that we take this matter seriously, not only for ourselves but for the sake of our future generations. We must stop believing that someone else will solve this problem; as the truth is, it’s down to you, me and everyone else to change our ways in order to make a difference. And we have to make a difference.
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Thank You for coming on this journey with us
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“ Buy Less. Choose Well. Make it Last. “ - Vivienne Westwood
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