2017 D&M Magazine by nick cassway

SPRING 2017 1

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It feels good to give back. And together with our generous customers and employees, Macy’s averages more than $1 million a week to initiatives important to you and your community – arts, education, the environment, HIV/AIDS, and women’s health and wellness. It adds up to $69 million a year. It’s a good feeling we can all share, and to us, that’s the magic of giving.

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Staff EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brieana Gaglioti

Contents 8 One Hundred Twenty Five 10 Humans of Westphal 14 Theatre of the Oppressed

ART DIRECTOR Erica Barry

STYLE EDITOR Samantha Ardizzone

18 Nigel Richards 20 Who’s the Boss 23 Sustainadelphia 27 D&M Q&A Nicole Miller 28 Palaces of Consumerism

PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR

32 Adopt Don’t Shop

Christopher Tyler Siracusa

36 From Worried to Working 40 Fitbox

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Christina Frantz

42 Start-Up 101 44 Appreciation Appropriation 46 The Legacy of James Galanos

EDITOR Megan Robles

PHOTOGRAPHY STAFF Jamie Lazarus Lloyd Sinclair

50 Vivid Revival 56 59 and a Freshman 60 The Art of Ink 66 Bands of Dragons 68 Harold Garde 72 Mirroring the Media

CONTRIBUTORS Sydney Blum Simone Brooks Emily Chow Samantha Clifford Colette Gress Amanda Hinkelman Sarah Oh Victoria Royce Megan Teasdale

74 Beauty Hacks 76 Star Boy 78 Vogue to Vintage 80 Rockin’ Roasters 82 Jawn Appétit! 84 Try Some Dim Sum 86 Meet Me at the Salad Bar 88 A Taste of Tea

FACULTY EDITORS Nick Cassway Catherine Byers

90 Broke and Hungry 92 D.I.Y. Home Edition 94 Taking the Suck Out of Succulents cover and facing photograph by christopher tyler siracusa

one hundred twenty five Most of us know only a little of Drexel’s history, or where we were as a university 125 years ago. While the innovations, improvements and overall changes are endless, over the course of time we have found an identity within the stepping stones that were laid before us; a set of beliefs that will propel us into a future greater than we could have imagined, and we’re excited to introduce ourselves. We are innovators. We are designers. We are forward thinkers and devoted learners. We have been molded to think towards the future, and reminded everyday the value of the past. We believe that every student in every major has a story worth reading. We believe that despite new restaurants, the Reading Terminal Market has been home to some of the best food in Philadelphia since 1892. We are believers in the fashion industry; in its ability to adapt, to transform, to re-occur. We love that clothing worn by the 18th century man can be confidently worn today by a woman. We believe that women of all shapes, sizes and cultural backgrounds have the same rights and capabilities as men. We believe that all art, from 18th century romanticism to modern day tattooing has a place in the world of creativity. We believe that friendship, connections and community are the principles of success and that this issue of D&M magazine is a testament to that. We believe that in the fast-paced environment of Drexel University, change is the only constant, but that these beliefs are strong enough to withstand the course of time. We hope you enjoy this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed making it, let’s get started. – the editors photograph by christopher tyler syracusa

Humans of Every day we pass hundreds of faces and make many meaningless interactions with people we know and don’t know. But what are their stories? Humans of Westphal will give you an inside look at students with different backgrounds, majors and inspirations. words by CHRISTINA FRANTZ + SAMANTHA ARDIZZONE

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

BRIAN GOEHRIG – MUSIC INDUSTRY

EMMA SILVERS – TV PRODUCTION

COLIN LOTT – INTERIOR DESIGN

“Honestly, I would go insane working in a cubicle or in an office doing the same thing every day just for a paycheck. I never wanted to work for a living, I have always wanted to work for a passion, and that is why I chose to work in the music industry. At first, I thought my passion was strictly in music, but it is more than that. My passion is in sound. I love working with sound just as a painter loves working with colors. In particular I really love science and the physics of sound, how sounds work with other sounds and what you can do to manipulate what you hear. I would say I inherited my dad's love of music, which has influenced me and made me the person I am today. There is something about music and sound that is alive and cannot be put into words. To me that is beautiful, dude.”

“I have always been in love with television. Watching it and thinking about it took up pretty much my entire life, but not in the way most people love TV. I was obsessed with who wrote on what show, how the shows were produced and what the process of making and creating TV looked like. I loved how TV took people out of their lives, helped people escape. I wanted to major in TV Production so I could finally study something I truly cared about. I feel like so much of writing is just thoughts percolating in your head for so long that eventually, by the time you write, it all just flows out.”

“I've always been interested in spaces and how they all come together. The Interior Design major allows me to be creative, and when I graduate I won't have a typical 9-5 desk job. I'm inspired by people who challenge the social norms. I really appreciate when people do what they want to do or what they believe is right instead of what they are told is right. These people show their identity and when they do, you can see the passion people have for what they do. I had many struggles with my high school art teacher. We never got along and never agreed, but I owe all my knowledge and skills in art to him because throughout high school I looked up to him. He challenged me because he knew I could create great things.”

Westphal KERRI MAY – ARCHITECTURAL ENGINEERING

ARIANNA FLASHNER – PHOTOGRAPHY

RAKIYAH WHITE – FASHION DESIGN

“I'm an Architectural Engineering major with a minor in Construction Management. I thought it would be the perfect combo of creativity and math for me. I chose Drexel because of its amazing engineering program/co-op opportunity and the University gave me an awesome scholarship (probably for being a girl in engineering). I could spend my day walking around Center City, Philadelphia, staring at the massive buildings above me. They amaze me. My struggles have come from not being able to take my own advice. I have to tell myself that it's not all about grades, but it really is about the balance between life, school and fun. Traveling has affected me the most. Being abroad in England for three months and having traveled elsewhere has brought a sense of discovery and a drive to learn.”

“I chose my major because I have always been interested in the fashion photography field. I have always loved buying fashion magazines such as Vogue and flipping through the pages to just look at the photographs that were taken for a certain brand. I love the work that goes on behind the scenes of a fashion shoot and how everything is posed and placed in a certain way for the fashion campaign. I am currently working on a self-portrait project that I was inspired to do by the works of Richard Avedon and Irving Penn who are very well known for their portrait and fashion photographs.”

“Ever since I was a little girl, I have always been into arts and fashion. Whether it was dancing, drawing or painting, I have always been a creative person. My mom has inspired me to dig more into fashion so I could potentially have my own fashion house. We would always receive the Harper’s Bazaar, Elle and Vogue magazines and my mom and I would literally have our mouths wide open looking at all the beautiful designs. Now that I have pursued my dream I realized the work gets hard, I have sleepless nights, sometimes three all nighters in a row, two critiques in one day, tuition, etc., but I have learned I cannot let that stop me. I do not let my struggles deter me from achieving my dreams and goals of becoming the best person, student and designer that I can be.”

ALEXA DEPERRO – DESIGN & MERCHANDISING

ALEXIS CHINA – PRODUCT DESIGN

BEVERLY PEDERS – SCREENWRITING/PLAYWRITING

“After taking three years of fashion design in high school, making my graduation dress, working retail and growing up watching ‘The Hills,’ I fell in love with the fashion industry. Being a D&M major gives me the opportunity to continue following my passion deeper than I could ever imagine but also combine it with my analytical mindset. It’s the perfect balance. Rather than spending so much time on social media, I thought I’d make better use of my time and work on bigger platforms than just my personal Instagram. I run my sorority’s social media, I’ve blogged for the D&M Blog and also launched a blog for @dftiboutique, which is really important as we try to expand our customer base. I’m currently co-oping at TJX with the T.J. Maxx and Marshall’s handbag buying team in Boston. I get to travel as an assistant buyer with the team to market week to see vendors’ new lines for each season and to their vendor appointments at least once a month, like Fossil in Dallas and Calvin Klein’s NY showroom. I’ve learned a lot about negotiation, interacting with the market, the ins and outs of buying as well as a ton of analytics. I debated switching to LeBow multiple times just because I was having trouble connecting with the art classes required for this major, but looking back on it, I am so happy I stayed with D&M. Once co-op began, I realized how all of those art projects actually relate to D&M even on the business side. Those classes help to gain an entirely different perspective on things and help me to see things in a different light than most people.”

“I have always had a wide range of interests, so when applying to colleges, I was conflicted between pursuing engineering or a more artistic degree. The Product Design program at Drexel was the perfect mix of those fields, as it has allowed me to utilize my creative abilities in conjunction with more critical thinking skills. I love being able to create new products and revise existing ones so that they are able to better suit people's needs. I am constantly being inspired by my surroundings. Different environments lead me to new insights and ideas – for example, something that exists in my rural town back home and the needs of the people there end up being completely different than those in the urban environment of Philadelphia. I had always considered myself pretty organized when I first came to college, but Drexel and my major challenged me in this area more than I had imagined it would. My major is not easy and I am still involved in a variety of activities outside of schoolwork on campus, but I have learned how to prioritize my time and decide what is most important to dedicate time to.”

“I began writing when I was 11 for Power of the Pen (a short story writing competition) in middle school, and since then I have always made room for writing in my life. When I studied abroad in Rome, it was either the life-changing experience of travel or an enlightening storytelling workshop that convinced me I wanted to write full time. Although I struck down the stressful deadline-ridden path to career writing, I was introduced to many different types of writing: short story, short film, video game writing, screenwriting, playwriting, comic book writing, writing for graphic novels, poetry and so much more. I can’t find a single one I like the most though poetry’s simplicity trips me up every time. I have written a handful of screenplays and treatments in classes and have been working on my own screenplay for two years. Something I find that helps me get into a creative mode is music. I have playlists for all of my developed story ideas on Spotify and at one time, I used to build playlists for other writers based on what genre they needed. Immersing myself in music helps kickstart my creativity and imagination, and sometimes the music can help shape a scene in a way I hadn’t thought of. I have two full notebooks where I jot anything and everything that comes to mind and, later, back it up on my Google Docs and then back that up on my hard drive. One of my biggest fears is losing my ideas and having to start from scratch. Writing for me, unlike other career prospects I had earlier entertained, is a breath of fresh air every time I pick up a pencil or sit down at my laptop.”

KAITLIN MARINO – GRAPHIC DESIGN

MATT FALKENSTEIN – MUSIC INDUSTRY

REBECCA KENDRA – INTERIOR DESIGN

“At first I wanted to be a dance major and auditioned for different schools with a great dance program. I switched my major to Graphic Design when I was in a severe car accident that prohibited me from auditioning at certain schools. After deciding that art was what I wanted to do instead, I fell in love with the city aspect of Drexel and the incredible co-op program. I finally know exactly who I am as a person and the kind of person I want to be, and I have taken every opportunity that has been offered to me so far this year. I took my first big risk and studied abroad in Rome this fall and loved it so much that I am now applying to study in Iceland for the spring. I became the captain of the Drexel Dance Team, and I am now on my third incredible internship at a company I could picture working for after graduation. All of these things combined make me so proud of everything I’ve gone through to get here, and I have Drexel to thank for a huge part of it.”

“After visiting Drexel, I felt that the Music Industry Program here was by far the best that I had seen compared to other schools. The facilities and faculty were, and still are, top notch. I have been a musician all my life and have always been doing things within the music industry, albeit somewhat blindly. When I got to Drexel, I initially wanted to make records, but I have since found that my talents lie more in the business concentration. My latest project is working with the Fashion Design department to select and curate all of the music for the upcoming Drexel Fashion Show, which will take place June 10, 2017. It is so interesting and inspiring to work with other brilliant creative minds and collaborate to create a really amazing event.”

“The URBN Center was the reason why I fell in love with Drexel and the Interior Design program during an Open House four years ago. Having such an expansive studio space, an in-house print center and a hybrid lab are only a few of the many things that URBN has to offer. I have been using the building for over three years, and I still cannot imagine myself going to any other school without having a place like URBN to call my second home. I chose Interiors mainly because I am interested in designing hospitals and other healthcare facilities some day. My mom is a nurse, and would always come home after a shift and talk to me about how badly her hospital is designed – badly enough that it takes away from patient care. I hope to design healthcare facilities where the staff feels that they are included in the design process because, after all, they are the ones that will use it the most. Artistically, nature inspires me the most. Nature offers so many beautiful shapes, forms and colors that can be easily used in a space to create both an aesthetic and functional environment. I also appreciate human interaction, whether it be on the street, in a restaurant or at a store. The way the people interact with each other as well as their environment is what drives interior designers to make choices.”

Theatre of the

oppressed “We are all actors. Being a citizen is not living in society, it is changing it.” These are the words of the late Augusto Boal, founder of the Theatre of the Oppressed. Established in 1971 in Brazil, the Theatre of the Oppressed (TO) has spread throughout cities all over the world, including Philadelphia. The current national and international political climate make the words even more relevant today. I got the opportunity to attend a gender workshop facilitated by TO Philly co-founder Morgan FitzPatrick Andrews.

words by ERICA BARRY

photography by MARIEL WOLOFF

Graphic by Rini Templeton, courtesy of Reproduce & Revolt

Andrews (orange shirt) leading a TO workshop

THE THEATRE OF the Oppressed in Philadelphia was co-founded in 2008 by Morgan FitzPatrick Andrews. He had known about Augusto Boal’s work and wrote about it in a published anthology. “Reading and writing about it made me realize that it was meant to be practiced,” Andrews noted. He attended workshops and a Theatre of the Oppressed Laboratory in New York where he experienced TO games and techniques first-hand. Many workshops focused on social justice issues such as racism, appropriation, gender and sexual identity. Andrews saw that the way these topics were addressed, through theater activity, resonated with participants. “Conversation just sitting in a chair isn’t getting anywhere, but if we get up and make shapes with our bodies it becomes more transformative.” Andrews decided to start a Theatre of the Oppressed in Philadelphia after constantly traveling to New York City for workshops. He began one-day TO workshops in Philadelphia but found the short format did not give the participants the opportunity to delve deeply into the issues they addressed. One-day workshops evolved to become five-month programs. This gave participants the chance to get comfortable enough with each other to discuss sensitive topics in depth. These workshops turned into a type of therapy session for them. TO attracts a mixed audience of theatre people and social activists. TO Philly workshops are priced on a sliding scale, so participants can pay what they want, and no one is turned away. The first workshop in a series is usually free, so participants can get a feel for it before they spend their money. “People invest in something that has value in it,” Andrews explains. Paying even a little bit gives people incentive to keep coming back.

MOST OF THE people at the workshop I attended knew each other. Even so, the atmosphere was welcoming, and I didn’t feel like an outsider. Many people had taken their shoes off, comfortable with themselves and the rest of the people in the room. We started by standing in a circle and saying our names while doing some sort of movement. As each person spoke, the rest of us repeated his or her name and movement. Then, Andrews had us do an exercise where we walked around and stopped when he clapped his hands. When we stopped we had to connect with as many people as possible by reaching for each other’s hands and feet. Some rounds were easy because there were people that were very close to me, but some rounds my limbs were stretched as much as they could in order to reach the closest person. The next game we played was called “Carnival in Rio.” The game consisted of two people doing two different movements and making two different sounds. Those two people had to gradually meld their sounds and movements to create one sound and one movement at the same time. After watching a few pairs do this, the entire class did it, with pairs melding with other pairs until the whole class was making the same sound and the same movement. Morgan explained that this game is used to bring to light and emphasize social justice and democratic issues, asking, “What does it look like to compromise?” and explaining, “This is what democracy looks like.” We didn’t notice it when we were actively engaged, but when we took the time to reflect, we realized that there was a lot of compromise involved, and some people found it harder to let go of their sound and movement. We then played a game called “How many A’s are in one A?” We

and assumptions when we think about gender and gender identity, because that is what society teaches us. Andrews showed us a diagram called the Genderbread Man to help us visually understand, which mapped out biological sex, gender identity, gender expression and attraction. Participating in this workshop opened my eyes to social issues that we don’t always experience first hand. As we search for ways to illuminate differences and heal divisions among people, games, sounds and movement are one step in the right direction.

returned to our circle and closed our eyes. One person stood in the middle and made an “A” sound and did a movement. With our eyes closed, we had to imagine and hear the movement that the person did. After doing this with other vowels, we moved on to typically female or male sounds, like giggling and grunting. It was then that we started to understand what this workshop was really all about: gender. It wasn’t completely clear at the beginning of the workshop how the exercises related to anything. Not knowing what we were building up to allowed us to focus on every sound and movement, and created a foundation for us to build on. After a few rounds of male and female sounds and movements, we had a discussion on the origins of these attributes. One participant noted that it was easier to come up with female sounds because there are more stereotypes against females than there are males. The group also noticed that all of the female sounds had negative connotations. Andrews asked us how we felt about making these noises, and the overall feeling was that we simply felt mean. ”You don’t always get to play the good guy in theatre,” Andrews responded, “Sometimes you need to be the villain, the antagonist.” Our final game was a competition and race. We split up into two groups and had to list 26 words A–Z related to gender as fast as we could. My team was slower at getting our words up on the board, but that wasn’t the point of the game. We sat down and looked at the two lists we made and compared the words. All of the words, like the sounds from the previous game, were negative. I don’t think as a society we realize that the use of the sounds and words we addressed in the workshop in everyday life are hurtful and widen the gender inequality gap. We immediately think about all the negative stereotypes

Conversation just sitting in a chair isn’t getting anywhere, but if we get up and make shapes with our bodies it becomes more transformative.

N igel Richards THE MAN AND THE BRAND Philadelphia-based designer and DJ Nigel Richards is making a new name for himself and his fashion brand. Previously called 611, the new Nigel Richards collection showcases the maturity and fun that men want in their wardrobe and turns away from inspirations from his DJ lifestyle. words by ERICA BARRY

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

NIGEL RICHARDS WAS an accomplished techno DJ before he began his life in fashion. He DJ-ed and worked in radio throughout college and after, so it was natural for him seek a career in music. In 1993, Richards opened his iconic record store, 611 Records, named for the Philadelphia route where it was located. Along with creating music that he sold in the store, Richards designed all of the bags and promotional materials, including store-branded logo tees. When the record store closed in 2007, he lost his creative outlet for designing tees and bags. “I’ve always liked to create things,” he said about why he decided to become a fashion designer. When he was in high school, Richards would stencil original patterns onto plain T-shirts and sell them to his classmates. “Smear Art,” he called it. He continued this in college at the University of Rochester, where he would ink and screenprint shirts for fraternities, sports teams and other university organizations to help pay his tuition. These two endeavors taught him practical skills, such as sourcing and production, that he would carry over to his fashion brand. Richards gets much of his inspiration from traveling and DJ-ing around the world. “I’ve been to all 50 states, 20 plus countries, and liked to shop around with money I got from DJ-ing. Germany, Brazil, Detroit, they’re all different.” Many of his collections are inspired by the places he’s visited. A past 611 brand took design elements from Mykonos, Greece, and his current Nigel Richards line is inspired by Newport, Rhode Island. “Upper echelon, casual, preppy, ’60s Newport,” he describes his new Spring/ Summer collection. The reds, blues and golds, and details like knotted rope evoke a nautical feel. This is a sharp contrast to the original 611 collections. Graphic prints related to the DJ lifestyle were the main focus, with T-shirts showing turntables, headphones and records. Richards wanted to keep the DJ spirit alive with the 611 brand, but his new collection has no relation

to the DJ lifestyle. “It’s like growing up,” he says about Nigel Richards. He is still dressing “fun,” but for different reasons now. He is married with a young son, so his life has changed emotionally and financially. “Fashion is an expensive industry,” he explains, so he is a real estate agent to help supplement income. “611 failed in comparison,” Richards says about the way his original company functioned. He embraces that, however, because, “Without failing you never can succeed.” One of the main influences of this change is Richards’ involvement in the Fashion Incubator program, a mentorship program led by Macy’s and Philadelphia Center City District. “It was a real ass kicking,” he said. “They really kicked the crap out of me.” The program taught him how to focus on his “true customer.” “I’m no longer making things that I think are cool,” Richards explains. The Fashion Incubator program helped him realize that he needs to create clothing more purposefully with his target market in mind. While 611 was essentially a collection for himself, Nigel Richards is a collection for his customers. Richards also offers multiple opportunities for interns, including Drexel co-ops. Interns get the chance to learn about all the steps in the design cycle, from concept to production. “It’s really exciting,” Richards says about his internship program. He appreciates having “earnest, dedicated employees looking to learn and improve their skill set.” The interns are also a great asset to the company, contributing new ideas and skills. There are Drexel students on the design team, and Wharton students on the advertising and branding team. The Nigel Richards collection signifies a turning point in Richards’ career as a fashion designer. He turned what was once a hobby and a way to pay for school into a line for sophisticated men who want to add some flare to their wardrobe. Richards laid the foundation with his 611 collection, and now he is on the rise with Nigel Richards. His new collection can be found at nigelrichards.com. Image on RIGHT: Model wearing Nigel Richard’s brand

Fashion is an expensive industry. 611 failed in comparison, but without failing, you can never succeed.

Who’s the

Boss

All businesses might start as one good idea, but taking a business from concept to reality is when the real work starts. Drexel University alumnae entrepreneurs Rachel Mednick, Cynthia DeLott, Abby Kessler and Katie Lubieski are the perfect examples of the drive it takes to create and run successful businesses. words by MEGAN ROBLES

C y n t h i a D e L ot t

We are believers in making mistakes, but the team calls them learning opportunities and experiences.

DeLott and Sirois faced numerous challenges when starting their business including, “finding money to finance the business without an investor.” DeLott also saw the importance of creating a strong marketing plan to advertise the business so it can grow. DeLott said, “We are believers in making mistakes, but the team calls them learning opportunities and experiences. If you have an idea and a solid business plan, then keep moving forward and believe your idea is worth it.” DC Luxe Design sets itself apart from the competition because, according to DeLott, both of the co-owners, “strive to make personal connections with our clients. We are able to listen to our customers’ needs without interjecting our own personal preferences.” Most importantly, DeLott and Sirois work with the customers to make their vision become a reality. Since opening four years ago, DC Luxe Design has added kitchen and bath design services and has partnered with a cabinet company. In the future the owners want to expand the business web presence. DeLott said, “I always tell my kids that they should explore every nook and cranny of their imagination.” She added that, “One should marry their life and business experiences to show who they are and what they are about. It is important to dig deep and let your true self shine through.”

CYNTHIA DELOTT IS co-owner of DC Luxe Design, an interior design store located in Hamden, CT. She attended Drexel University’s College of Business and Administration to receive her MBA in Finance and Marketing. DeLott said, “When I first moved to Philadelphia I had no intention of getting an MBA. After taking classes at Drexel, I fell in love with the dynamic environment and being around people with a variety of skills and experience.” After graduating she gained experience by working with start-up companies, and then took a break to raise her two kids. Once DeLott’s children were in elementary school she started to work with an interior designer, Denise Sirois. One day over a cup of coffee they started discussing the idea of opening a business together, and in the fall of 2012 they started the initial planning. By the summer of 2013 they opened the doors to DC Luxe Design. According to DeLott, “Drexel gave me the skills necessary to take business risks and have the knowledge to support my decision. Opening DC Luxe Design was a big moment in my life.” 20

A bby K e ssl e r & K at i e L u bi e sk i paid off because as the business grew, Kessler and Lubieski were able to pay off the cards and secure a small business loan that allowed them to take the next steps toward growth. According to Kessler and Lubieski, their greatest accomplishment was being able to create something out of nothing. They have also received several grants and have been able to help charitable causes. They have owned Smak Parlour boutique for more than 11 years, and during this time the business has evolved. When the business first opened they created their SMAK line in the “sewing parlour” of the shop, and for the first five years they only sold their own line. Today they have branched out and their store also carries indie brands. Kessler and Lubieski have been able to extend their brand and were able to successfully run several different pop-up shops, a fashion truck and a thriving e-commerce website. Lubieski stated that as a team they are “designing our own clothing collections seasonally for our own store, our website and wholesale. Also by selling the Smak Parlour brand to shops across the USA and Canada, it is helping us reach new customers.” The owners pride themselves on creating one-of-a-kind designs with proprietary prints that you can’t get from anyone else. Their designs are strong, fun and feminine combined with graphic prints and an affordable price point. When considering a new design, Kessler and Lubieski ask themselves if they would want it in their personal wardrobes or if there is a need for something in the market. In the future Kessler and Lubieski said they hope to “further expand our wholesale collection and get our brand into all of the shops catering to our customer. In turn, we will grow our customer base and our website business.” When starting a new business Kessler and Lubieski both agreed, “You must be prepared to put in the work to grow a business because it will demand all of your time and attention.” Kessler and Lubieski advised that when creating a new business to come up with a unique idea that fills a gap in a current market, and to “give people something they really want, and make sure you have a customer for what you’re selling.”

ABBY KESSLER AND Katie Lubieski are alumni of Drexel University’s Design & Merchandising program and are co-owners of Smak Parlour boutique, wholesale and pop-up fashion truck business. Kessler and Lubieski met when they were 15, and they both had a passion for creating fashion. They had the idea of opening a boutique together and decided to make it a reality. After graduating from Drexel, Kessler and Lubieski had a wholesale clothing line called SMAK by Abby & Katie, and the success of this line gave them the confidence to open a shop. Smak Parlour boutique, with its distinctive pink dollhouse exterior is located in Old City, Philadelphia. In an age with so much information easily accessible, Kessler and Lubieski find their inspiration through various sources. They stated that as a team they search “the latest runway shows, fashion history icons and even random interior design pictures. You can explore anything on Google, and then you can come across that one that thing that inspires you to create!” Before opening their storefront in 2005, Kessler and Lubieski were faced with the challenge of finding a space without having any money or assets. Kessler said that it took them “several years to find the store space, and our landlord let us put the first month’s rent on a credit card. We started with no capital whatsoever and put everything on the credit cards.” By doing this they were taking a huge risk, and the business would either sink or swim. This leap of faith

You must be prepared to put in the work to grow a business because it will demand all of your time and attention.

R ach e l M e dn ick

Trust your gut, stick with it and to be passionate about what you are doing.

muted neutrals with some pops of color and graphic prints. Her designs are playful while still being functional for an active child. There are many separates, which are perfect for layering. Mednick said that her “design style evolved over time through researching trends and continuing to be creative with new ideas.” In order to grow her business Mednick recently introduced a skin care line that includes products such as lip balm, belly butter and sleep spray. She said, “The skin care line was good to sell at Bryant Park (New York) because it is set at a lower price point so new customers can try the products.” Mednick has had a small pop-up shop at the Winter Village at Bryant Park in New York. In addition to Lucy & Leo’s distinctive style, Mednick’s mission to make a positive change in the environment gives her business a competitive edge. Having responsible practices is one of Mednick’s core values. Having organic products resonates with her customers, and she is able to “educate parents about what they are putting on their children.” Mednick said that her biggest challenge was getting in her own way. According to Mednick, “Being an entrepreneur is a hard and lonely business, and it is easy for doubt to set in one’s mind.” One way Mednick has overcome this is by creating a support system through a network of women entrepreneurs. “My network pushes me, challenges me and helps me get out of my own way.” She realized that it is important to find a group of people that you can trust, and it is okay to ask for help. Mednick has also learned that her capabilities are far greater than she had thought. Mednick considers her greatest business accomplishments to be a feature she received in Marie Claire magazine and being able to have a pop-up shop at Bryant Park for the past three years. In the future she is planning to expand her wholesale business, online sales and extend her product line. In order to meet these goals she wants to create a team of full-time employees in the next five years. Her first piece of advice is, “Trust your gut, stick with it and to be passionate about what you are doing. If you’re not passionate about what you are doing then you shouldn’t do it.” Mednick’s second piece of advice: “Make sure you align your reason for being in the world with your business. If you are able to do this then good things will happen.” Mednick’s last tip is a quote from Audrey Hepburn: “Nothing is impossible, the word itself says ‘I’m possible!’”

RACHEL MEDNICK IS a Drexel University alumna who started Lucy & Leo, an e-commerce organic childrenswear line. Mednick found inspiration to start her company from her younger cousins Lucy and Leo. She started her Drexel journey as a Fashion Design major, but then switched to Design & Merchandising. Mednick continued to take fashion design classes, and after graduating in 2009, Mednick “had bins of extra scrap fabric” and decided to use them in a creative way by making applique for her newborn cousin Lucy’s clothing. Mednick is against wasting material and has a clear “passion for being environmentally friendly.” Mednick knew she wanted start her own business, “after receiving positive feedback from people and other moms about the clothes I created for Lucy. During this time it was hard to find girls clothing that wasn’t pink or frilly.” For the first three years she sold her designs at various craft fairs and events before deciding to pursue this venture full time. This was the same time her cousin Leo (and another line) was born. Along with using organic fabrics, all of the garments are manufactured in New York. Her background in fashion taught her the negative impacts manufacturing has on the environment and the inhumane treatment of employees. It is important to Mednick to “run a business that aligns with my personal ethical values.” Mednick prides herself on creating fashions that are different from current childrenswear brands. Her color palette consists of 22

sustainadelphia “Sustainability” can mean different things to different people. Most can agree that sustainable companies focus on their social, environmental and economic impacts. They use responsibly crafted products, and they are activists for social issues. Three local Philadelphia businesses, Moon + Arrow, Juju Salon & Organics and Bario Neal, demonstrate their approach to operating successful and sustainable businesses. words by MEGAN ROBLES + VICTORIA ROYCE

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

Moon+Arrow 754 S. 4th St MOON + ARROW is a woman-owned boutique that sells handmade and vintage jewelry, clothing, accessories and home furnishings. The interior of the store reflects the unique product mix with a quirky, adventurous and tribal feeling. Chelsea Pearce, owner, designer and curator of Moon + Arrow, founded the brand in 2010 when she created a jewelry line and an e-commerce business. After having a successful pop-up shop, Pearce opened the storefront in 2013 and continues to create her own jewelry line in-store. By carefully selecting pieces from other vendors to feature in her store, Pearce creates a meaningful space that tells a story through the artists’ backgrounds. Pearce said, “I want the Moon + Arrow experience to be like a treasure hunt and that every customer has this unique experience.” The business has a sustainable mission of selling responsibly crafted goods and supporting artists in the Philadelphia area. It is important to Pearce that she knows where every product comes from and that it has a story to tell. Products are created using fair trade practices, meaning that they are produced in a manner that promotes safe working conditions, protects the environment, enables transparency and helps communities build thriving businesses. Jessica Curreri, Moon + Arrow’s communication and creative manager said, “A company’s ability to adhere to fair trade practices is a make-

or-break for Moon + Arrow, and we will drop products that don’t adhere to these values.” Pearce makes her own display shelving out of reclaimed wood, and any other furniture is refurbished. All of the tissue and wrappings are recycled paper. Curreri said, “As a business we are focused on reducing the amount of waste we produce. In order to accomplish this goal we save boxes from shipments and reuse them for website sales. Additionally, we use scraps of shredded cardboard and paper to package our products.” Besides their commitment to the environment, Moon + Arrow is committed to building a strong community. They hold in-store events and workshops to help introduce customers to various local artists so that customers can become educated about the products. Customers are more likely to invest in a product and a brand they can trust. Moon + Arrow is expanding its online presence and their Moon Babies collection, a children’s section of the store that carries a variety of products such as wooden toys, winter hats, books and hair care. One product sold in the Moon Babies section is a baby balm that heals and soothes irritated, cracked and dry skin. This product is made of organic sunflower oil infused with organic calendula, chamomile, hops and lavender flowers. Growing this section of the store is personally important to Pearce, who recently became a mom. 23

BARIO NEAL IS a sustainable jewelry shop that sells a variety of products including bracelets, earrings, necklaces and engagement rings. Owners Anna Bario and Page Neal began collaborating in 2007 with the goal to reinvigorate the jewelry industry through the use of ethically sourced materials. Genna Fischer, responsible for gemstone sourcing and sales at Bario Neal said, “When Anna and Page started working together they were drawn to the imaginative possibilities of the jewelry industry, yet disillusioned by industry standards that turned a blind eye to metal and gemstone mining’s environmental and human tolls. The designers began to envision how to make jewelry of lasting value and ethical origins.” They wanted to be early adopters by creating a brand that revolved around material awareness, something that was not present in the industry. Bario Neal is focused on being environmentally responsible and is an industry leader in ethical sourcing, progressive manufacturing and high quality work. Using materials such as reclaimed precious metals, fair-mined gold and ethically sourced stones demonstrates their commitment to fair wages and safe work environments. Having a Fairmined Gold certification shows that the gold has been ethically extracted by small-scale miners who are held to strict environmental, labor, social and economic standards. Industrial gold mining is responsible for releasing toxins, including mercury, into the environment. Fisher said, “At Bario Neal, we have taken an oath to support healthy and happy working conditions, from the mines where our gems and metals come from and larger communities that support them, to the shop floors where our gemstone cutters and jewelers work. No part of our supply chain is left out and we are always working to do better.” Also, Fisher said at Bario Neal, “We like to hear personal stories and see photos our suppliers may have from people they work with, so that we can get a better picture of the conditions.” Bario Neal’s quaint shop has a minimalist and industrial vibe with exposed beams and piping. Their workshop is part of the retail space so customers get a behind-the-scenes look at the jewelers working with various tools and machines.

Bario Neal’s design and sales team are able to personalize any piece in the existing collections such as using different stones, adding engravings or customizing the fit of the band. They specialize in personalized wedding rings. Fischer said, “At Bario Neal we are focused on creating those important jewelry pieces that can be passed down through generations.” Bario Neal supports many causes such as feminism, LGBT rights and marriage equality. The business makes engagement and wedding rings and is proud to be part of this meaningful experience. Fisher said in order to support marriage equality, “We try to frame our work outside of gender binaries, and in all our conversations understand that commitments and marriage have different meanings for all of us.” Bario Neal prides itself in supporting organizations such as Planned Parenthood and Human Rights Campaign. Since one of Bario Neal’s core missions is ethical sourcing, they support communities they work with across the world. For example Fisher said, “We raised money for the Malawi Dzonze Development Project, which funds areas including agriculture, education, environment, health, sports and drinking water projects.” Finally, they keep their customers updated on these issues by frequently posting new stories on their blog. Some of their posts include spotlights on jewelry they made for same sex couples, customer stories and events they are attending to support these causes. As Bario Neal continues to grow they hope to bring more awareness to the jewelry industry and set a standard for jewelers to uphold. Fisher stated, “Bario Neal will continue to grow as we explore and experiment with designs within traditional jewelry forms. We’re also playing with scale and new materials in an upcoming series of limited edition pieces.”

Bario Neal 700 S. 6th St 24

Juju Salon & Organics 713 S. 4th St

JUJU SALON & Organics prides itself on being the first fully organic and non-toxic hair salon in Philly and recently celebrated 11 years of being in business. Juju Salon & Organics focuses on using organic products for hair and nail practices as well as selling green products in the store. Owner Julie Featherman said, “The primary goal of the business is to minimize environmental hazards common in the hair salon industry for both workers and clients.” Products used by Juju Salon include organic hydrating conditioners, sulfate-free shampoos, paraben-free cleansers, pomades and texturizers made from pure plants, essential oils and vegan lip balms. The salon provides services for women, men and kids. When Featherman opened her business she said, “I wanted to work in an environment that reflected how I live my life, which is healthy, sustainable, cruelty-free and responsible.” Sustainability for Juju Salon means using products that have green ingredients and the containers are sourced from recycled materials. When it comes to selecting products Featherman does extensive research on every product she brings into the salon, making sure each ingredient meets her standards. Featherman said “My business is dedicated to procuring products from companies who utilize, respect and promote organic harvesting and growing.” Juju Salon and Organics does not offer any toxic treatments such as perms or straightening processes. Over the years the business has become loyal to some brands they know they can trust like Max Green Alchemy, John Master’s Organics and 100% Pure makeup & skincare. Featherman said, “When I opened Juju Salon & Organics in 2005 there were only a handful of salons nationwide that focused on being environmentally friendly, so sourcing products was difficult because options were limited.” Today there is a wider selection because more companies are delivering products that claim to be sulfate-free, GMO free and organic. Featherman warns, “What some companies are not saying is that while there may be a trace of an organic plant in their product, the

majority of the ingredients are cheap, toxic and synthetic chemicals. The green-washing today is out of control.” Juju’s values are mirrored in the ambience of their salon. The mix-matched, repurposed wood furniture and plants give an organic, natural touch to the salon. They recycle all of the containers they use. Also, the furniture and display items are bought second hand, trash picked and repurposed. When the salon and spa was renovated they used non-VOC paints and the facilities are PECO Wind-Powered. Juju Salon & Organics connects with the community by holding monthly events where the stylists educate clients on sustainable beauty products and their importance. Beyond their events Juju Salon & Organics donates goods and services to organizations such as The Red Cross, The Clean Air Council, Friends of Wiccacoe Meredith Elementary School, ASPCA, PAWS and Philabundance. Featherman said that is important for Juju “to keep expanding our sustainable ways and supporting companies that embody, promote and facilitate a healthier planet and green living.” In the future Juju Salon & Organics hopes to expand their business by opening additional salons because of the demand for authentic and organic salons. Featherman said, “I hope to not only expand the Juju footprint, but to continue my path through consultation and education in the larger health and beauty industry.”

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Do you have any advice for young students in the fashion industry? Head for the hills (laughs). I would say it is important to have a lot of resilience. Continue to plug away. Have a focus and a point of view. Use that to your advantage. The women entering the fashion industry should remember to not have a chip on your shoulder. While it may seem like most men make it further in the industry than we do, it is important to persevere. In my personal experience I have had better luck with female assistants and prefer to work with other women when designing my collections. If you are a young designer trying to enter the field don’t latch onto a trend that is current when you debut your line. It may be easy to do but it may end up defining your career. Where do you think the best job opportunities are for emerging designers and merchandisers? NY or LA. If you weren’t a fashion designer what career path would you have taken? I would own a restaurant. I always have opinions about my food and think about what different ingredients I would have used. What do you look for in someone whom you hire as a designer, manager, etc? I assess their personality. When they become part of my team they become family. I try to make sure I have someone who I can trust and work well with. Where do you see the retail industry going? I believe that brick and mortar stores aren’t going anywhere. People always like personal attention, and you can’t get that from online shopping. The stores that understand customer service will still succeed in the industry. The specialty stores I sell the brand in are still doing well because they are involved in their surrounding communities and interact with their customers on a personal level. The fashion world has really changed and there are so many celebrity designers, a trend which I don’t necessarily understand. I feel as though the designers with real talent are hidden behind the scenes while the celebrities get to take the credit. However, I do love working with celebrities and dressing them in my brand. My favorite celebrity to dress was Angelina Jolie. You see a lot of stores are closing and it’s because people have too much stuff. Anything goes these days, and any style is accepted as fashion. Fast fashion has also taken a toll on the industry. Consumers have too much in their closet and there is less room for them to buy more compared to the past.

D&M Q&A

NICOLE MILLER D&M magazine speaks with fashion icon Nicole Miller. Here is what she had to say about fashion, merchandising and women in the workplace.

Do you follow trends? There are some trends and design elements I personally do not like but I know my customers do, so it is a little bit of give and take. I have to accommodate my customer to some degree and give them trends that satisfy their needs.

interview by AMANDA HINKELMAN

Why should clients shop at Nicole Miller? Our clothing fits very well. We cater to a wide range of women - we have can satisfy the stylistic needs of multiple generations of women, which allows mothers and daughters to shop together an0d be equally satisfied with their shopping experiences.

Who and what are your biggest inspirations? What inspired your latest collection? It varies - I am constantly inspired by ancient cultures, movies and environments. My latest collection was inspired by Panamanian art. I went to an art gallery and saw vintage molas that I thought were really interesting. I ended up buying a few unique ones that were frayed, which in my opinion gave them a more authentic feel. I built my most recent collection with them as inspiration. For my next collection I am playing with tropical jungle themes, but that could change.

What is next for you? I have been doing a lot of regional traveling and appearing at different fashion shows and charity events. As a brand we have been expanding licensing and doing more menswear which I am really excited about. 27

PALACES OF COMMERCE words by ERICA BARRY + MEGAN ROBLESâ&#x20AC;&#x192;

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

Philadelphia was in the forefront for retail department stores in the 19th and 20th centuries. Before the introduction of malls, the downtown area of Market Street East was a hub for shopping. Department stores at this time were considered palaces of commerce. The goal of these elegant fortresses was to uplift consumer spirit and make them feel important. Architects were hired to design these elegant monuments of commerce because retailers wanted to use the grandeur of architectural details as a form of branding. The Classical and Renaissance Revival details created a sense of refinement and class. The upscale retail approach of these classical styles beautified the city and created an aura of luxury in the mentality of the consumer. Professor Dr. Mark Brack of Drexel Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Architecture program gave insight on the materials, design style and context of the architecture of four historic retail buildings in the Philadelphia region.

GIMBELS

Built in the Classical Revivalist style by Cooper & Conard, the Gimbels building is stripped down of the details prominent in other retail buildings. Its main architectural feature is the Ionic columns, made from carved stone. The gilded awning is a popular design that could be found on retail buildings during this time. The other prominent feature of the building is the clock, which was used by banks and retailers to provide convenience to the customers. 28

WANAMAKERS

Designed by architect Daniel Burnum, the building now known as Macyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is in the Renaissance Revival Style. It shows classical details filtered through the Renaissance ideals of 15 and 16th century Italy. Wanamakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has an atrium in the middle of store, which contains the pipe organ and the iconic bronze eagle statue. The architect wanted to create a space that was not just focused on increasing sales but created a sense of awe and grandeur.

LIT BROTHERS

Built in the Renaissance Revivalist style, the Lit Brothers building is unique because it features a cast iron facade rather than stone used by the other department stores. While cast iron looked fancy, it had benefits such as being inexpensive, durable and fireproof. By using this material, builders were able to create molds to produce multiple copies quickly and made them available via mail-order. Architects Simon & Bassett took advantage of this and ordered new facades as the building expanded. However, they ordered these casts from different companies, which is why there are many different styles to the outside of the building.

STRAWBRIDGE AND CLOTHIER

Strawbridge and Clothier was built later than the other buildings that occupied the downtown area of Market East. Built by Philadelphia architecture firm Simon & Simon, the building has an art deco exterior with classically inspired details. Classicism was viewed as an emblem of good taste and gave an air of durability. The intricate detailing around the windows and the doors of the building are made out of brass and bronze.

Frankie and her human Megan Teasdale

ADOPT

DON’T SHOP

There is a solution to helping dogs in need around the world. The answer is rescue. words by MEGAN TEASDALE

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

APPROXIMATELY 3.9 MILLION dogs enter shelters annually nationwide and 1.2 million of them are euthanized, according the ASPCA’s most recent statistics. Puppy mills, high-kill shelters and dogs being turned in by owners who cannot take care of them are common in the U.S. One solution is to help these animals through rescue. By rescuing an animal, you may be saving that animal’s life. Some rescue sites have gone to great lengths to promote the dogs that are up for adoption. Shelters are using public relations techniques to promote the amazing animals that are waiting to find their family for good. Main Line Animal Rescue uses their Instagram (@mainlineanimalrescue) to post photos of their dogs, labeling them as “Today’s adoptable all-star.” The descriptions make you want to help. They also post pictures of the adoptable dogs dressed for the holidays – impossible to scroll past. There are people who dedicate their lives to animal rescue, making it their career to find and save animals in need. Shelters fill up quickly by taking in as many animals as they can support. The personnel that work for rescue sites aim to ensure that the animal will be

going to a family that is capable of giving them the best home imaginable. Mandy Knoll, who works with Home At Last Dog Rescue, a group of 300 volunteers that rescues dogs from high-kill shelters, explains why people need to consider adoption as their first option. Knoll says, “You not only save the life of the dog you adopt, but also the life of the dog waiting for that spot at the shelter. It is truly special knowing you made the difference for that animal, and I can tell you they are forever grateful. It is so rewarding to help them transition and know that they are now a loved family member.” Home At Last Dog Rescue’s volunteers foster the dogs until they find a family. Some dogs in shelters have been previously placed in foster homes to test their temper so shelter personnel can tell a prospective owner how their pet handles certain situations. Home At Last Dog Rescue’s volunteers help to remove dogs from shelters where their chances of being euthanized are very high. The idea of fostering a dog may seem difficult, but when asked about the process, Knoll had encouraging things to say.

Both of her dogs were extremely fearful in the beginning. “You just know that they’ve been through something terrible. They are scared to trust new owners again because of the trauma they’ve experienced in their life.” For Donahue the best part about adopting is how the dogs’ personalities have changed over time in a home that only shows them love. “In a way, you get to watch them grow and become happier. You know that you’ve made a difference.” Roz Blum from Baltimore, Maryland, explains her experience of rescuing her dog, Addie. Her reasons to rescue were similar to Donahue’s, but Blum saw the good of rescuing a trained dog whose behaviors could be explained before bringing her home. Blum says, “I think people need to realize that any dog you bring home from a shelter has been through some sort of trauma. Even if they weren’t mistreated, they were removed from their home and everything that was familiar to them. They may be missing their owners or even other pets in their family. Being in a shelter or a new foster home is stressful. It would be very hard on the dog if its new home didn’t work out. So, I think when you rescue a dog, you need to be prepared to make the commitment to help that dog adjust to your home, and to make it work.” There are many questions when it comes to adopting a pet. Blum and Donahue offered similar insight about rescuing. Ask questions about a dog’s or cat’s history and any known issues. Be prepared to provide a safe environment, and make sure you have time to spend with the animal. Knoll says, “I hope that one day there is not a need for what we do. It is so important for people to understand the importance of spaying and neutering their pets to cut down on overpopulation. There are so many wonderful pets waiting in shelters, many through no fault of their own. When considering adding a pet to your family, please consider adoption first!”

“The process of taking in a dog to foster and finding him or her a new home is just so amazing. Every dog is different and rewarding. Everyone always says to me, ‘I don’t know how you do it, I’d want to keep them all.’ And I’m not saying it’s always easy, but when you see what we see on a daily basis, and see the faces waiting to get out of the shelter and find their forever family, you know you have to let them go. And when you find the right family, you know it’s time, and it makes letting them go more peaceful. All of my fosters hold a special place in my heart and have their own story.” There are many reasons why people choose to rescue an animal. Patrick West, who rescued his blind dog Woody, knew that the dog needed help and saw that he could give Woody a happy life. Claire Donahue of Monmouth County, New Jersey, said she adopted her two dogs to stop them from being euthanized or abused. She said the reason she chose a shelter over a pet store was because, “A lot of shelters in the South are kill shelters and don’t like to keep the animals for very long. Places like Adopt-A-Pet pay for these animals to be shipped to shelters that will care for them and find them a home. Those puppy mills that are breeding dogs over and over again need to be abolished as quickly as possible.” Growing up with dogs all of her life, Donahue was able to spot some differences in the dogs she’s adopted. Her dogs came with background stories that she learned prior to the adoption process. “Molly and her litter were sent to a kill shelter in North Carolina and had the Parvovirus,” a typically deadly infection which can be transmitted from the mother causing diarrhea, severe weight loss, fever and low white blood cell counts. “The litter was brought to New Jersey where I was able to bring her back to a healthy state and make her stronger than I’d ever thought she’d be. My other rescue, Frankie, was found abandoned on the side of a road in Georgia, terrified and alone. After finding her on the website, I knew I could help.”

In a way, you get to watch them grow and become happier. You know that you’ve made a difference.

Woody and his human Patrick West

from

Worried to WORKING

“What are you planning to do once you graduate?” Is the question I and other soon-to-be graduates have heard since entering our final year in college. While some may enthusiastically respond to this question waving their job offer in hand, many of us cringe at the word “job.” Being in Design & Merchandising only adds to the stress of finding a job. As my friends continue to accept job offers in other fields, I have turned to individuals in the design and fashion world for advice and knowledge. Below is the advice from four women in different fields, positions, ages and interests. After these interviews I felt confidently more prepared and inspired to be a part of a creative industry. interviews by AMANDA HINKELMAN

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

COURTNEY ROSEN What is your current title? Creative Production Coordinator. I work with both the Vendor Marketing and Target Marketing teams for Saks Fifth Avenue.For vendor marketing I work alongside merchants, buyers, and vendors for Saks to create mailers to increase sales. I also work for target marketing which is working with internal creative collateral (from Saks catalogs) to come up with offers to increase sales in targeted customer segmentations such as lapsed, existing or one time customers. Targeted campaigns are also for holidays such as Valentine’s Day and Father’s Day, etc. Do you have any work regrets? I wouldn’t say regrets, however I tend to take the first role I am offered. This may be out of insecurity of the future or genuine excitement for the offer. I do not see this as a regret however, I could think more in depth about this in the future. What is your biggest mistake and best decision you have made in your career? I don’t believe I have made any mistakes. Every role I have participated in has taught me something and helped me build my future. I think every mistake whether it be as small as a typo in an email or a design mistake in a piece, all have 36

taught me to slow down and take my time to pay attention to the details. The best decision I have ever made has been to network. Doing informationals has helped me reach out to coworkers who I would have never been able to talk to face to face. My informational with the Media team at Lord & Taylor introduced me to my co-worker who gave me a recommendation for my job at Saks. What is the best part about your job? Besides the discount? Just kidding. The best part is working for a company that takes pride in its product, employees and the brand itself. I love seeing my efforts pay off in tangible design mailers or sales results. The best part of my new job is meeting with all of my coworkers and learning how diverse each person’s role is and how much I will be able to learn from them. Do you have any advice for men and women who are about to enter the fashion world? Try not to let the catty image of Devil Wear’s Prada become true. Be kind to people but always be your own advocate. Work hard and try to remember why you are passionate about fashion, it is the daily human portrayal of art.

CHELSEY EVERST How do you find a work/life balance? I don’t think work life balance exists. What we try to do is fulfill ourselves where and when we can. If we are stressing ourselves out about this perfect balance we are going to not achieve it. I believe instead of setting an intent during the day. For example, I can set an intent to be more kind to people, be more open, etc. Setting intent is better than balance.

What is your current job? I am an adjunct English Professor at Camden County College. I have been working there for over a year now and every day poses a new challenge and learning experience for me. I am dedicated to facilitating open dialog in a student-centered classroom. I am committed to emphasizing the importance of collaboration, social consciousness and active learning. My teaching interests include women’s memoir, spiritual nonfiction and feminist pedagogy. I also am a freelance grant writer and creative writer. My grant writing was dedicated to nonprofit experience working with at-risk and disadvantaged youth, diverse refugee populations and the homeless. My creative work is vast, my latest project was for an excerpt from EAT PRAY LOVE MADE ME DO IT. In the past year I have started creative writing workshops for people of all ages and different subjects. These workshops are meant to empower writers, enhance their skills and help them understand writing as a therapeutic tool. Are you now fulfilling a dream job position? Yes, it is exhausting and doesn’t always feel like a dream. Do you have any work regrets? Throughout my 20s I was really overly concerned with the fact that I wasn’t following the path that I was supposed to or that all my friends were. It took me a little longer than expected to get where I am now, but I wouldn’t change how I got here.

Every step has helped me better realize what I really want to do. Everyone wishes they get somewhere sooner, but don’t rush it. You never know where you might end up. What is the biggest mistake you have made in your career? What is the best decision you have made in your career? My worst decision was when I made the decision I believed I was supposed to make. When I took a job because that is what I thought I was supposed to do, those decisions have always been wrong and ended badly. My heart wasn’t in it, and I didn’t make the decisions for me. That leads to my best decision of following my passions. My best decision was to get my MFA in creative writing even though I had no idea what I was going to do with it. At the time I didn’t know I wanted to teach, but I knew I had to be true to myself. What is the best part about your job? The connections I can make with college women. When I was in college I needed professors to help me and guide me. I had one professor who took me under her wing and really helped me. At one point in my college career she gave me $500 to quit my job in order for me to have time to complete my thesis. I now get to fulfill that mentor role that was so graciously given to me. A lot of these women are going through shit like I was. I see myself as someone they can come to, and that is a very fulfilling feeling. 37

Do you have any advice for men and women who are about to enter the workforce? Don’t expect the first job you get to be the only job you have. You are going to continue growing. It is ok to change your mind and bounce around a bit. Additionally, it is ok if things change and you need to reassess. You have the rest of your life to work and make sure you take the time to check out all your options. Where do you see the fashion world going? Specifically, I see women in the fashion industry changing a lot. They have adapted a hyper sexual attitude that creates a conversation around female empowerment. They are breaking boundaries and pushing back stereotypes. Alicia Keys’ no makeup movement is a great example of how the fashion world is changing. Wearing her hair natural and embracing her heritage, that is where I think the fashion world is headed. I am excited for women not only in the fashion industry but in general. We are growing, experimenting and becoming more empowered.

Everyone wishes they will get somewhere sooner but don’t rush it you never know where you might end up.

KRISTA ADAMS happy that I have been able to stay with Anthropologie, and even though it wasn’t my initial dream, I have learned so much and met so many amazing people. I get to create exciting work that always feels fresh because it is constantly reacting to the trends in fashion as they morph. What are your goals and passions? I am passionate about the power of illustration and how the hand can translate ideas in a really unique way. I am passionate about that form of expression. I am also passionate about animals and nature. I think there is a special opportunity in the marriage of the two, and one of my goals is to find a way to use my form of expression to spread awareness/advocate for the environment.

What is your current title? Graphic Designer for Anthropologie Visual Team. I am responsible for creating original art for putting together the inspiration book that goes to stores as their first look at the seasonal direction. I work alongside the visual merchandisers and display coordinators to provide images and content that stores need. Please describe your journey to getting this job. How did you get it, where were you before? Tell me about your past experiences. After graduation I applied for a visual communications internship with Anthropologie’s Visual Team at their home office. I got the internship and then was extended for an extra season after I completed the first three months. I was with the team for nine months as an intern and then after a few months away I was contacted to come back and work with the same team as a freelancer. During my freelance period I interviewed for the full-time position and am currently transitioning to a permanent position.

Are you now fulfilling a dream job position? If not, what is your dream job and how do you plan on getting there? I wouldn’t say this is a dream job, but I love going to work everyday and get to be creative and integrate my love of illustration into my work. I love the team I work with – it is full of talented, creative and inspiring people, so in some ways maybe it is a dream job. I have a passion for ocean conservation, nature and illustration and would love to use my creativity and illustration to benefit nature in some capacity one day, preferably in the form of children’s books and editorial illustrations. For now I am really happy in my job, but I plan to use the creative opportunities that I have at work to keep me motivated to make more personal work when I get home. Do you have any work regrets? I thought that I did a few months ago, but in hindsight I am so thankful for my work journey thus far. The best advice I was ever given in terms of career was to say yes to every opportunity, even if it doesn’t seem extremely important at the time. I am so 38

Do you have any advice for men and women who are about to enter the fashion world? A coworker recently was talking about the importance of having fun in this industry. If you aren’t having fun and if you aren’t excited about what you’re doing, it is going to show in your work. So I guess I would just say to stay true to your passions and what makes you excited about being in fashion. Follow YOUR compass. The art industry is literally ALL about self expression and it’s important to be able to maintain comfort in expressing yourself. Then you’ll be happy and it will show in everything you do!

The art industry is literally ALL about self expression and it’s important to be able to maintain comfort in expressing yourself.

LISA DESANTIS lucky to do as much as I’m doing right now. Due to changes in the industry and in the personal lives of my colleagues, the beauty team has gone from four to one (I’m currently the only member.) So, as you can imagine, I’m on the frontline, taking market appointments and keeping tabs on all the cool new product launches and incorporating them into our beauty pages and health. com. It’s all a matter of time and moving up, continuing to prove myself every step of the way. I don’t think there’s really an end to that, reaching my dream job is just being happy and fulfilled in what I’m doing and feeling confident in that.

What is your current title? Assistant Beauty Editor, Health Magazine. As the Assistant Beauty Editor, it’s my job to go to marketing events for new product launches and keep track of what’s new and upcoming in order to plan for in-book placements. I work about two to three months ahead. I pitch ideas to our Executive Editor for what stories we should do, and work on already planned stories. When I write a story, and I usually write at least two for each issue, I have to set up interviews with experts that can weigh in. Not only do I write a story but I also choose the products that we include and work with the photo department on a runthrough where we decide what will be shot. I also handle the trending beauty section in each issue where I cover new trends. A few that I’ve done include the no-makeup trend for celebrities, marijuana in beauty products (yes it’s a thing) and anti gravity products where I had a dermatologist give their opinion on whether they really worked. I’m constantly searching for new trends to cover because we do about three each month. That’s all for print, but I also do online which is more timely. We have digital news meetings every morning to discuss anything that’s going viral. This is a brief overview, but I think it about covers it. Please describe to me your journey to getting to this job. How did you get it, where were you before? Tell me about your past experiences.

After I graduated, I couldn’t catch a break. I was growing more and more depressed with the job search – certainly, I wouldn’t have to take another internship with all of my past experience, right? WRONG. After applying and not hearing back from countless jobs since August, I finally caught a break. As an unpaid intern that was. I began working at Kravetz PR, another fashion and beauty company, even though I was pretty much over fashion by then, a job is a job. In December 2014 my life changed. Yes, it was another internship (which I failed to mention to people because I was a little embarrassed) but it was paid (minimum wage, fancy) and it was in beauty editorial at Fitness magazine. Reality hit shortly after at the end of January when the magazine folded, but as luck would have it, Allure was looking for freelancers for the 2015 Best of Beauty Awards, so on the last day of February, I walked out of Fitness and on the first day of March, I started at Allure. I was at Allure for six months and it was a true honor working amongst the best in the beauty biz. After six months there, I decided to make the move to a more stable position at Health as the Beauty Assistant and have moved up from there. Are you now fulfilling your dream job position? If not, what is your dream job and how do you plan on getting there? I’m definitely on my way to my dream position. I’ve been very 39

What is your biggest mistake and best decision you have made in your career? I think that would go along with my regrets. I see other people getting things that they want, but I can’t blame them if they’re asking for it and I’m not. I think the best decision has been just hanging in there and not letting the fear of what may happen keep me down. I’m a super-anxious person, but for some reason have been able to maintain a level of calm in my job because I know I’m doing my best. What was your biggest lesson you have learned while working? I think it’s really important to find out who you can trust. The people who you work with may be awesome and friendly, but at the end of the day, you need to realize that they’re your co-workers, not necessarily your friends. Lines can get blurred, but you need to keep your own best interest in mind. Do you have any advice for men and women who are about to enter the fashion world? Don’t give up. This industry isn’t for the faint of heart. You’re going to be knocked down, it’s inevitable, but it’s up to you to get back up and keep going. For example, I know I’ll be laid off at least once in this life, that’s just how it’s going to go. But, in a funny way, especially for someone like me, work isn’t everything, and it’s important to realize that failure doesn’t necessarily reflect who you are as an employee or as a person.

FITBOX ATHLEISURE AT YOUR DOORSTEP

Love the new athleisure look but unsure how to wear it? We asked founder Gregory Lowe and former co-op intern Diandra Marks how Fitbox can dress you in the latest trends once a month and turn heads, both in the gym and on the streets. words by SYDNEY BLUM

photography by CLIFTON PRESCOD

AFTER HAVING EXPERIENCED a “Devil-Wears-Prada” co-

Lowe also realized that brands like Lululemon, Zella, Fabletics and Bandier were a success and that consumers were purchasing outfits frequently. At first, Fitbox only carried its own Fitbox brand. Now, they order from outside vendors as well. “I was inspired by love of fitness to create a platform for fashion and a healthy lifestyle,” Lowe said. Rebecca Minkoff is a well known fashion designer who is an investor for Fitbox as well as one of Lowe’s mentors and friends. “She has added to my knowledge base in business and fashion while also allowing me to make my own decisions, which is rare for investors,” Lowe said. The importance of celebrities investing in startup apps can be an important factor, however, Lowe says it takes a lot more than just a celebrity to have a successful company. “It all depends on how you’re applying their ‘celebrity.’ A good marketing plan includes more than just a celeb mention or tweet – a company has to support that initiative while making sure the message stays authentic,” he said. Fitbox has been progressing, but like most businesses, there have been obstacles along the way. Fitbox faced a problem when they were making their clothes. They originally sourced their materials from Italy and made the clothing in China, but that was too expensive. Now, Fitbox is sourcing material from Morocco and still making their clothing in China. Overcoming hurdles is one of the many challenges of starting a business. Marks said, “Being fashionable and comfortable at the same time is not the only perk. The athleisure trend supports healthy lifestyles.” Lowe’s thoughts on athleisure wear coincide with Marks’s. He said, “Athleisure in my opinion is comfy and functional style, it moves beyond a trend... We encourage our customers to wear our clothing pieces outside the gym and into their everyday lives...similar to jeans.” Being healthy and working out is becoming more and more popular today, which is why Fitbox is not just a brand, it’s a lifestyle. Sometimes people buy these clothes to look like they are living the lifestyle. A sale is a sale, but we asked Lowe what his opinion was on fitness wanna-bes. “You’re only a wanna-be until you’re not...so I encourage people to follow their dreams in fitness and buy Fitbox!”

op job, Design & Merchandising senior Diandra Marks decided to leave the fashion magazine world and work for a fast-paced startup app, Fitbox. “Working for a startup allows you to gain hands-on experience within all parts of the company as opposed to working for a huge company and learning how to steam (garments) and fetch coffee,” she said. Luckily she met the owner of Fitbox, Gregory Lowe, through her parents. The new co-op with Fitbox gave Diandra real business responsibilities that many students may not experience. Fitbox delivers two garments of athleisure wear once a month to your doorstep and helps you dress in the latest trends in and out of the gym. Monthly package options are $59.99, $89.99 or $129.99. “The athleisure trend is here to stay and is becoming more popular,” Marks said. Fitbox clothing is made to empower the customer and make them feel good and look good while doing any type of daily activity. Marks said, “You can never have too many athleisure clothes!” Lowe is a business entrepreneur and a founder of several successful mobile apps. He first got involved in apps through the music industry. “I saw there was a need for creativity to be added to the norm of listening to music...I wanted to see how we could engage people into the music on their phones,” which is why he created the app Songbooth. From there, he realized the importance of apps and of technology companies. Lowe says, “The most important factor starts with the level of detail to understanding its function in the user’s life...A good app has a good narrative as to how it will improve or enhance your life,” he said. Lowe is also the CEO of the company Lowekey, which creates innovative and efficient mobile apps. “Startup apps are the lifeblood of large companies like Apple and Samsung. The startups of today disrupt and eventually lead industries,” he said. While living in New York City, Lowe noticed that millennials were ditching what their parents wore, like suits and dresses, for more comfortable fabric and style of cut. “Fitbox was born out of the need to simplify consumers’ choices through our curated athleisure boxes,” he said. 40

Being fashionable and comfortable at the same time is not the only perk. The athleisure trend supports healthy lifestyles.

START-UP

101

Starting a business might seem easy enough. You’ve probably done business plans in business classes, or you’ve watched enough Shark Tank to know what investors are looking for. But it’s not as easy as it looks – SWOT analysis, demographics, psychographics, six-month financial plans, brand development. Have you thought any more deeply than this? If you haven’t, Julia Tong, an associate at Vinson & Elkins Group who has helped many startups, might be able to help. words and illustrations by EMILY CHOW

LET’S LOOK AT the fictional example of three friends who had worked hard on a project together – Quinn, Maria and Steve. They came up with the idea of selling custom designed socks. “Socks?” their professor asked incredulously, and they answered with a very serious face, “Of course. Who doesn’t like socks?” “Alright, where will you sell them? How will you sell them?” The group thought for a bit and defended themselves with confidence. “Online. Many things can be customized or designed – hats, jackets, t-shirts, but these can often get expensive. With socks, you can make a few pairs with silly designs that subtly match.” “Alright,” the professor agreed, “Fine.” Their jubilation at the approval turned into frustration as they spent many hours researching their demographics and psychographics, spending many sleepless nights writing their business plan, and revising their logo and advertisement graphics over and over again. They present their absurd idea, get a good grade and move on with their lives. However, despite its absurdity, Quinn was convinced that she could market this niche product and Maria agreed. Steve, however, wanted to pursue his love of underwater basket weaving and declined to work on the business. Let’s follow these entrepreneurs through their trials and tribulations of a startup. Picking a company name sounds so easy and may seem like it requires little to no research, but that’s absolutely not true. It should sound unique, encompass the company’s values and beliefs and be able to leave a lasting impression in the consumer’s mind. At first Quinn and Maria had decided on We Don’t Sock! They refined the logo from the project and went on to make all their social media accounts with the intent to hype up potential customers. What they didn’t realize was that We Don’t Sock! was already a trademarked name. Poor (literally at this point) Quinn and Maria had just wasted time and money on a useless company name! Beyond being ‘cool’ and ‘memorable,’ Tong advises that you should also make sure the name you want is not trademarked by using the United States Patent and Trademark Office name search. You should also check to see if the name is available for use on social media and as a domain name. This name research is best done before any marketing is created to avoid costly campaigns with a name that has to be changed. After this slip up, Quinn and Maria went back to the drawing board to come up with another name, but this travesty has now delayed the opening of their long awaited business. (And in case you were wondering, their new name, after a series of scheduled crying delays and stress eating, is Sock-ciety.)

The whole naming debacle didn’t deter Quinn and Maria. Their next obstacle was how to distribute equity and profits among themselves. Quinn wanted to split an even 50/50, but Maria claimed that she had done more for the company by being the main person who worked on the business plan, and she wanted it to be 60/40. Quinn knew that her graphic design work was just as important, but didn’t know how to maneuver this without destroying their friendship and their company. Is this sock company more important than a friendship spanning years? There is no clear answer to this situation – the advice given by Tong was, “Well, what do you think feels right?” You have to consider who originated the idea, the contribution of each member in time, capital, experience and expertise in the field. Fairness should always be considered, and if a person has contributed more, then that person should get a larger share, but it’s not always that simple. Quinn did all the design work while Maria worked on the business plan – both are equally important, and both are a necessity for the longevity of their company. Surprisingly, Sock-ciety survived the early mishaps of the company founding, but underwater basket weaver extraordinaire Steve caught wind of the brand’s success and is a little bit salty – just a little bit, but enough to confront his former groupmates. He had worked hard on on the brand in the beginning and decided that he has a rightful share to the company. Obviously, Quinn and Maria want to deny him because he left before they even had the naming mistake, but Steve insisted that he worked on the backbone of the company and he deserved his share. With great reluctance, the girls allowed Steve some of the shares to get him off their backs. Can you guess what Quinn and Maria did wrong this time? Tong stresses that a written agreement should be drafted before even starting the venture. It should state clearly the ownership of the company and of course, should be signed by all those concerned. People often don’t discuss who “owns” the idea, and a person who had left the group early on may decide that they want something back from the company after its success. Signing an agreement ensures that this headache can be avoided...and perhaps save friendships. Quinn and Maria (and hopefully you) discovered that it’s hard to start your own business and there are so many things to think about, that it eventually turns into a confusing mess. And this story is only the beginning. Quinn and Maria have not even begun to address sourcing, production or distribution. If you’re planning to be your own boss, then you should already be aware of the risks and challenges involved, but if you’re ready to walk this path, then make sure you have all your bases covered – and a strong friendship with your partner that won’t deteriorate at any signs of trouble or disagreement. 43

APPRECIATION

Appropriation words by SIMONE BROOKS photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

IN TODAY’S FASHION industry trends come and go instantly. Designers

or respectful form of cultural appropriation. Cultural appropriation is NOT a form a flattery.” Many people have unintentionally worn an item that was probably inspired by some other culture than their own. While this, most of the time, is not considered cultural appropriation, wearing sacred pieces attempting to relate to a race or culture can in fact be cultural appropriation. Wearing dashikis, cornrows, afros, dreadlocks and many other African or black American styles is often seen as being disrespectful. The importance of black hair in black culture is more than the style itself. It stems from years of historical significance dating before slavery. Black hair is a huge piece of African culture signifying things like age and occupation. When Africans were taken and forced into slavery, many slave masters shaved the heads of women to forcefully dehumanize them. Some women were forced to wear headscarves to signify class. Beginning in the late 1800s, African American women began to chemically alter their hair to be more accepted in western standards of beauty. While natural afro hairstyle and protective hair styles like braids have become a more accepting form of beauty it is often still seen as less unacceptable in workplaces, schools, and fashion when worn by Black women, but frequently seen as stylish or innovative when worn by other races. Actress Amandla Stenberg stated in her video “Don’t Cash Crop My Cornrows,” “What would America be like if we loved black people as much as we loved black culture?” This was in the wake of the #BlackLivesMatter movement and police brutalities when many non-African Americans were adopting aspects of black culture, but were not speaking out to help the black communities or black families facing these injustices. Many black Americans today feel as if styles from their own cultures have been made into fashionable statements when being worn by other races, while being glorified on runways. Bolden gave the example of how she was made fun of or called ghetto for wearing hoop earrings, but now popular stores are selling these products and other races are wearing them “fashionably.” While African and African American culture is not the only culture being appropriated in today’s society, it is seen much more often than that of other cultures. Bolden explains, “I think black Americans are often disregarded for our contributions to music, fashion, entertainment and sports. It is easy to see if someone is appropriating Native American culture, because you would see them in this stereotypical outfit with feathers and fringe. However, with black Americans, it is much more subtle.” Fashion, beauty and art from every culture are all meant to be beautiful and creative for everyone to admire. Cultures can be respectfully appreciated by designers in the fashion industry by simply gaining more knowledge on the culture itself. If credit is given to the culture and the inspiration is carefully and appropriately displayed, then a successful cross-cultural line can be created.

have to make their creations look fresh while being inspired by almost everything. But when the clothing that we wear is inspired from different cultures around the world, the controversy of appropriating another person’s heritage comes to light. Cultural appropriation is a controversy that has grown within the fashion industry in the past few years. The phrase has been used in media because of the style choices of celebrities like the Kardashians and Miley Cyrus. These celebrities are often criticized for wearing hairstyles like cornrows, bantu knots, dreadlocks or bindis. Designers like Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino and many more have also been accused of appropriating cultures in order to create new looks for the season. In a world in which fashion and beauty trends are rarely original, it is difficult to state whether these designers and celebrities are appropriating a culture or if they are inspired by elements of the culture. Drexel’s curator of the Robert and Penny Fox Historic Costume Collection, Clare Sauro, describes cultural appropriation as, “Something is being taken from another culture and is being disconnected from the context.” She furthers her definition by stating that not all appropriation is meant to be negative, and sometimes things just happen to come into western dress throughout the years, such as kimono cut sleeves. Sauro states that appropriation was originally more of a “neutral connotation” in the fashion industry but has since translated to more of a “negative connotation due to the lack of respect that comes with it.” Egyptomania is an example of one of the more culturally insensitive trends during the 1920s in which gold detailing and Egyptian symbols were everywhere in fashion and art, and white actors and actresses were inaccurately portraying historical Egyptian figures in film after the discovery of King Tut’s tomb. Sauro also gave the example of Indian cashmere shawls as a form of respectful appropriation because the beauty of the cashmere, embroidery, and overall quality were valued and appreciated, which she claims “is greatly different than someone wearing a Native American motif or headdress in their everyday life.” However, in today’s fashion industry, designers are taking aesthetically pleasing pieces of other cultures and using them without knowing anything about the culture’s origins and traditions. Valentino’s spring/summer ’16 line was harshly criticized because it was “Africa-themed” using words like “primitive” and “tribal” to describe the designs. This completely disregarded the fact that Africa is a continent and includes cultures that are more than the stereotypically “primitive.” Cultural appropriation has grown to expand past couture designers to everyday life. It happens so frequently in today’s society that cultural appropriation has become viewed as completely negative. The president of Drexel’s Black Student Union, Kandra Bolden, states her opinion saying, “I don’t think there is a positive 44

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think there is a positive or respectful form of cultural appropriation. Cultural appropriation is NOT a form of flattery.

THE LEGACY OF

james galanos Last fall, Drexel Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fox Historic Costume Collection of the Westphal College of Media Arts and Design received a donation of 700 garments from the James G. Galanos Foundation. These garments were samples kept by James Galanos from the late 1960s to his retirement in 1998. In addition to the garments, the collection will be receiving his photos and sketches in 2017.

words by MEGAN ROBLESâ&#x20AC;&#x192;

photography by MICHAEL J SHEPHERD

JAMES GALANOS WAS one of the most respected American designers and is known for his impeccable craftsmanship. He was appropriately named the “Master of Chiffon” by the New York Times for his use of delicate materials and attention to detail. His garments were commonly compared to the quality of a Parisian couture house. Even though Galanos was a ready-to-wear designer, his garments were made of a higher quality. He was a bold designer that showed his love for the craft. He would take a printed silk jacquard textile and add beading to create an enhanced and dimensional textile. It is this level of care that helped Galanos create a clientele of A-list stars that included Judy Garland, Loretta Young and Rosalind Russell. He is most famously known for designing First Lady Nancy Reagan’s inauguration gowns. The donation came through the James G. Galanos Foundation, which is owned by the Galanos family. Galanos died in 2016. Clare Sauro, Curator of the Fox Historic Costume Collection, said, “The Foundation felt that the garments needed to be taken out of storage and used for research and educational purposes as a demonstration of good design. This is why they decided to donate to a university instead of a museum.” Also, since Galanos is from Philadelphia, it was important to the Foundation that the garments were donated to a school in that city. Ralph Rucci, a personal friend of Galanos, was an advocate for Drexel University to receive the donation. “He supported the University because of the care given to the collection through my guidance and the work done by the collection staff, President John Fry and his wife Cara Fry. He also commended the collection on the growth they were able to accomplish in a short amount of time,” said Sauro. She added, “We (the staff of the collection) are currently working with architects to expand the storage space and build a gallery.” Along with the expansion they are going to create a study room for the Galanos objects. After the staff processes the extensive collection, Sauro

said, “In the next two or three years we will create an exhibition dedicated to James Galanos.” A companion book will be published at the time of the exhibition. “The goal is to reintroduce the idea of Galanos to a younger generation and a new audience. In his day, he was considered a daring and avant-garde designer. Today most people link Galanos only with designing elegant garments for Nancy Reagan, but we hope to readjust his legacy,” said Sauro. While the exhibition for Galanos will only show a small selection of the garments donated, future exhibitions will continue to display his work. “Galanos will now and forever become part of the identity of the collection. His garments will be used for exhibitions, collection visits and educational purposes because of the superior craftsmanship, attention to detail and textile application,” said Sauro. Sauro points out that Galanos’s garments are unique because of the unusual combinations of textiles and bold use of color. “Galanos was known for using chiffon, but he was not afraid to put different textiles together like pairing tweed with fur. Also, when viewing his garments one needs to step back in order to admire the shape and use of the textiles, patterns and colors,” she explained. This type of innovation leads to designs such as a full-length beaded mesh gown over silk jersey or applying beading to a textile as light as mesh. Also, when taking inventory of the garments, Sauro realized that his designs were fit to the ideal model of that time. Sauro pointed out, “His clothes were made for the runway, so the proportions are based off the extreme silhouettes of fashion illustrations. The Fox Historic Costume Collection had to order a new set of mannequins to fit this tall and slender shape. Galanos’s clothes were designed to fit a frame that was six feet, two inches and a waistline of 23 inches.” James Galanos was 92 years old when he died on October 30, 2016 in his California home. The Fox Historic Costume Collection continues to educate people of Galanos’s legacy through his garments, sketches and photos.

Garments created by the skilled designer James Galanos show his mastery of the craft through the use of layers of chiffon, applying beadwork to various textiles, sharp seams on wool dresses, and intricate couture structure.

ivid revival

Inspired by color not costume, Drexel’s Senior Fashion Design students’ garments exhibit the vibrancy and drama of the Renaissance. The combination of photography and fashion create the perfect canvas.

Designed by Brittney Laycock words by AMANDA HINKELMAN styled by SAMANTHA ARDIZZONE photography by CHRISTOPHER TYER SIRACUSA hair by JOSEPH ANTHONY’S Retreat Spa and Salon make-up by ELYSSA KERSTEIN

I would take stuff. I would burn it. I would microwave it. I would put it on a grill and even set matches to it.

59 and a

FRESHMAN words and photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

AFTER YEARS OF watching their success and being inspired

I tried to be creative,” she said. “That was where I really learned to appreciate the construction and fabrication of the garments. This was key in wanting to study fashion.” Upon arrival at Drexel, she said, “It felt like I found my home. I loved it.” She was 59. She admits her age did play a factor, and it took a physical and mental toll on her. She also appreciated the humor when she was frequently mistaken for being the teacher. Even though she was having the time of her life, it was difficult on many levels. Fortunately, she found a camaraderie with many of her undergraduate classmates who not only became her creative collaborators, but also her lifeline to staying strong and positive. It was during this time that Beringer realized she had an opportunity to be a positive role model for how people, especially women, could support each other in the workplace. She also quickly learned that she had a great opportunity to learn from her younger classmates. “I attended more twenty-first birthday party celebrations in those three years than at any point in my life. I found myself turning 60 alongside the people turning 21, and I realized that my age was my strength.” Beringer found she had a secret weapon: experience. “I was able to appreciate the process of getting to the runway senior year and, more importantly, enjoying it.” She went on, “In today’s world, we are being accustomed to instant gratification, information and results. Everything is so immediate. My professional background easily translated into an understanding that design is a process; it doesn’t happen the first time or the second. A sketch is a concept, and concepts don’t always work out the way you plan.”

by her two sons, Nancy Volpe Beringer found herself going back to school at 59. “I felt like my oxygen was being siphoned off at my job and that is when I knew I had to go,” she said. One sleepless night, at three in the morning, she asked herself a question: “What would I want to learn if I was young again?” Her answer: fashion design. Fortunately for Beringer, once she gets something in her head, she just has to do it. When she first started doing some research on fashion design programs, she immediately looked to New York. She got excited when she found one of New York’s top fashion schools offered a one-year program. She had the insight of her very supportive husband who said, “I thought you were doing this for the love of learning; so why would you want to rush the learning?” Beringer then expanded her research and discovered that one of the best fashion design schools in the country was in her own back yard. Not only was Drexel’s Fashion Design program internationally acclaimed, it was the only school that offered Beringer a chance to pursue her dream of studying fashion design and also earning a Master’s of Science with its three-year program. But it was probably her trip to Florida that sealed the deal. “I always liked to look and fantasize about high fashion in magazines, but could never afford it until I started thrift shopping in Florida and got to see first-hand the intricacies of well-made garments.” When considering the program, it also didn’t hurt that she had learned to sew at 12 while at summer camp and had been sewing ever since. “I sewed through patterns and sometimes deviated from them. 57

When it came time to plan her graduate collection, people suggested that she should do felting, because she was getting good at it, but she hesitated. “I knew I would never have this amount of time to create a collection ever again, so I wanted it to be meaningful and enjoy the process. I also felt that a lot of felting didn’t reflect my aesthetics.” Beringer first learned about felting in a class called Material Explorations. She loved the class. “In class we always had to explore different and new materials to create unique textiles, and I would just let my mind go wild. I would take stuff. I would burn it. I would microwave it. I would put it on a grill and even set matches to it. I loved seeing what would happen and where it went. It was pure oxygen for me.” Everything changed for Beringer during her independent study and her exploration of felting. Delving deeper, she went to a five-day intensive felting course in Massachusetts at New England Felting Supply. Even though she wanted to do something relevant when she graduated and integrate inclusive and adaptive design into many of her courses, she also just wanted to do something fun for her graduate collection. “I wanted to do eveningwear because I knew this could be my one chance at a runway show. But at the same time, I was encouraged to do felting.” This is when the lightbulb lit up for Beringer. “I realized felting in formalwear just didn’t exist.” So she found a way to blend her desire to design innovative eveningwear with her new-found skill in felting. She went to New York and found fabrics that intrigued her. “It was perfect because I do love a challenge; I love to take an unknown and make it into something new,” she said. She found silk blend liquid-look organza and liquid-look satin fabrics and started to experiment with the new materials. “They really were not the type of materials that are supposed to be felted because you lose forty to fifty percent of the actual material during the process; it also gets expensive.” However, once she started felting this fabric, the magic happened – she created a new textile. The new textile Beringer created was revolutionary and in many ways reflected her journey. She named her senior collection “The Titanium Collection” after the song Titanium by David Guetta. “It just resonated with me. Every time I got knocked down, I got back up and moved forward. I felt bulletproof.” Her collection won five awards including the Frank Agostino Award for Excellence in Design, Construction, and Workmanship along with Best Evening Wear Award, Most Creative Graduate Collection and Most Saleable Graduate Collection. Beringer’s success continued past graduation when Philadelphia’s premier fashion store, Joan Shepp, featured her eveningwear collection in its holiday window. But she also never forgot her goal to do something relevant in fashion, and has found some of her most rewarding work in teaching refugee women sewing, textile and business skills. One can only imagine where the next path in her journey will take her.

Gunmetal silk blend liquid satin, felted to create an iridescent pleated sheath

Beringer created a seamless coat made of silk and wool roving. it won Best sportswear and best design by a first-year grad

Feathery felted pieces create the bustier of this liquid-look organza two-piece garment

the ART of INK An inside look into the lives of unique tattoo artists, what inspires them and how their craft is entering the world of fine art. words by BRIEANA GAGLIOTI + SAMANTHA ARDIZZONE

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

Skin – it’s impossible. It’s alive and it has layers and depths and it’s really impossible to explain to someone who’s never tried to make a tattoo. It’s the absolute most difficult canvas to work on. –Bang Bang

THE FIRST TIME I walked into a tattoo parlor, I was intimidated by

were bikers, sailors, metalheads, prisoners, thugs and punks. But despite the slow transition into fine art culture, it stands to be acknowledged that skin was one of the first canvases. Before there were pens, pencils, paint brushes, paper and anything else, there was nothing but the human body and the desire to mark it. Hector Daniels, tattoo artist at Bang Bang NYC, describes skin as “the ultimate medium. It’s a canvas that breathes and moves and sweats. It’s alive.” Whether it be for sacrifice, luck, rites of passage, branding or even clan markings, tattoos are as old as mankind. Today, we are embarking on a new form of art culture. The tattoo has emerged from a symbol of reckless rebellion to a mainstream form of fine art, and the artists are perfecting their craft. Social media and celebrity influence have given the oxygen for the tattoo industry to thrive. Tattoo artists have emerged as celebrities as much as their famous clients. For us, celebrities like Justin Bieber, Demi Lovato, Katy Perry and many others are the artists, but to tattoo artist Keith “Bang Bang” McCurdy, they are not the artists, but the canvases. McCurdy is one of few who has built an artistic legacy on tattooing without an art degree. Raised in Delaware, McCurdy stands over six feet tall, is unshaven and covered in tattoos. Young Bang Bang, who got his well-known nickname by getting two guns tattooed on the back of his neck, was rejected countless times before being offered his first job at Rage of the Needle. However, during that time, McCurdy says that his skills were developed by constant practice, tattooing for free and taking photographs of everything he did in hopes of creating not only a dense and impressive portfolio, but a signature style that would later be sought by many.

everyone. The environment was predominantly male, and the sound of the guns mimicked that of a thousand angry bees. The walls were covered corner to corner in prints, designs, previous tattoos and portfolio images corresponding to the different artists. I was overwhelmed by the sound, the images, the smell of alcohol and the boxes of latex gloves. Every artist had their own station, and in the center of the room was a drawing table. A few artists were gathered around the table sitting close to each other, but very noticeably in their own world. As I began to get accustomed to my surroundings, I was drawn to the stacks of books that were haphazardly open around the table where the artists were working. There were art history books, books on Western Tattoos, books on Tribal Tattoos, and even a book of Monet’s work. These tattoo artists were masters of their craft – they were educated, dedicated and passionate. They were sketching, re-sketching and searching for inspiration from fine artists that had come before them. The shop was a gallery for me, and I was nothing more than an observer. For the uninitiated, tattooing is the art of injecting pigment into small punctures made in the skin. This process can take as little as 15 minutes, to day-long sessions that span over a number of weeks. Despite what some may think, the price of a tattoo does not depend on anything such as the color of ink being used, but is based upon amount of time it takes to complete it. Artists can charge anywhere from $50 to $200 an hour. Because color tattoos take more time to fill, they are often more costly than a standard black and grey tattoo. There was a time when body art was negatively associated with all things savage and unknown. The only people who had tattoos 61

keith “bang bang” mccurdy

ing didn’t fully emerge until he opened his own store in Connecticut and started his days at Bang Bang’s.

Today, McCurdy has approximately one million followers on Instagram, and he owns a shop in New York City and has tattooed major celebrities in environments uncommon for any artist. McCurdy recently spoke about how he started his business and how it gained popularity.

“When you love what you do, you’ll just do it. Tattooing is interesting in so many ways. It’s the reason I get up everyday, it’s the reason I want to be better. If you don’t love what you do, do something else.”

“You start your business as soon as you start taking something seriously. My business started at 18 when I dropped out of high school and began tattooing. It seems like on the outside that my reality and my life and my world are pretty crazy, but I grew up no different than anybody else. This is my reality, I’m in it.”

Today, his steady hand and acute attention to detail has made Daniels a master at translating text to skin in any font size and style. Daniels is also known for smaller tattoos that require intricate detail, such as feathers, fur and tiny graphic elements. This particular tattoo style makes him one of the most sought after artists. Sketching his designs on the new Apple iPad Pro, Hector creates thin, detailed tattoos making it easier to transfer small, detailed sketches to the skin’s surface. When asked what makes skin different from other types of canvas, he explained that skin has many layers and depths and is different on every single person depending on age, color, sun exposure, etc. Different ink colors will show up on different skin colors and each design varies according to the age and skin type, so it’s important to design something specific to that individual. What makes a good artist isn’t just about the design of the tattoo – it’s about the design of the tattoo for the person you’re marking. Similar to Daniels, Joice Wang is another master of intricacy. Wang is a 23-year-old illustrative design front runner at Bang Bang’s tattoo shop. She was raised by her grandfather who taught her how to paint when she was four years old. Wang draws her inspiration from nature and enjoys tattooing flowers and water color. The intricacy in her work sets her apart from her male counterparts employed by McCurdy. Wang tattoos in a way that transcends modern tattooing, her flowers seem to blossom on the skin, blending beautifully the shades of the ink with the natural flush of her canvas.

The change in culture has encouraged artists to define their own personal style, and to perfect it. Each tattoo artist has their own style and their own inspirations. Individuals with an artistic eye are able to see a tattoo in places that most would never look. As interesting as it sounds, McCurdy draws a lot of inspiration from theme parks and roller coasters because of the intricacy and the collaborative art project that goes into creating these thrill rides. “My signature style became my style by doing tattoos that people have never seen before, and sometimes that’s the simplest thing. Rihanna’s tattoos are not mind-blowingly difficult at all. But they’re placed and designed really well…they’re done with a delicacy that tattoos weren’t done with ten years ago. And people are picking up on that because it’s a change in culture, that’s what people want now. You have to give each tattoo its own attention.” Hector Daniels, an artist at Bang Bang’s tattoo shop, went to school at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City for three years and has been able to translate what he has learned there to his artwork. At the start of his career, Daniels was confined to a style that was very traditional. His art and his real passion for tattoo62

Hector Daniels

joice wang

Wang went to school briefly and majored in art, saying that she never imagined pursuing anything else. Shortly after dropping out of college, she spent a lot of time looking for a job in the tattoo industry. After getting her first job, she was very disappointed in the way she was treated because of her race, appearance and gender and considered the possibility of giving up.

When you love what you do, you’ll just do it. Tattooing is interesting in so many ways. It’s the reason I get up everyday, it’s the reason I want to be better. If you don’t love what you do, do something else.

“The whole thing is being an Asian woman going into an industry that wants you out – you have to force your way in.” Modern day social media was able to connect Bang Bang and Wang on Instagram. During their interview, McCurdy had emphasized how important it was for him to surround himself with talent that was passionate and diverse, and he found that in Wang and her work. After an interview and a tryout tattoo, she landed the job. “Working here has definitely been a game changer,” says Wang, “And I think I’ve proved myself as an artist day to day.” McCurdy, Daniels and Wang have very different creative styles, but share one thing in common – each of them create more than just beautiful designs, but stories that are told through art and human skin.

ZHANé NICHELE photo by Emmanuel Valery

BANDS OF DRAGONS

PHILADELPHIA NATIVE AND recent Drexel alumna, Zhane Nichele is a singer, rapper, songwriter and entrepreneur using both her marketing skills and musical talents. This multitalented graduate has started her own company, Disruption, to showcase both her own and the work of other young musical talents that she mentors. She creates story-oriented music through poetic lyricism inspired by personal events as well as those of people close to her. Through her time at Drexel, her talents and motivation have helped her achieve some incredible goals. Nichele was given the opportunity to open for popular rappers Lil Wayne and Wiz Khalifa at last year’s Fall Fest. During one of her co-ops at Atom Factory in California she was able to meet the talented lyricist, J. Cole, and she completed her first studio album, “The Loudest Library.” She also released her first music video for her single “Go Mission.” www.zhanenichele.com

In a year full of amazing music from mainstream artists, our Drexel bands are making a name for themselves both locally and nationally. These are musicians from a variety of majors and they demonstrate a strong passion for music. Their popularity among students and other new fans is growing, and we want you to hear them, too. words by SIMONE BROOKS

JONAH photo by Keano Jan Osmillo

THIS HARDCORE INDIE rock band includes Bair Srivastav on vocals, Sean Ahern on guitar and vocals, Rishabh Singh on guitar, Jonah Huynh on bass and Sean Clinton on drums. When asked what inspired this talented group to get into music they simply stated “School of Rock starring Jack Black.” The band’s sound is varied due to their diverse musical backgrounds and a desire to experiment, sometimes having a funkier sound like Dance Gavin Dance or a prettier guitar sound. Inspired by bands like Brand New and Great Collapse, the band focuses on songwriting and the lyrical value of a song. Even though they are graduating in June, Jonah hopes to remain making music as long as it remains fun for them. The band recommends that aspiring freshman musicians should “start a band before life gets too complicated.” jonahbandpa.bandcamp.com 66

SMALL TOWN SINGER, Tiffany Johnson breaks the boundaries of music with her unique sound that ranges from R&B to EDM. She aspires to have people be surprised when they hear her music, which she describes as an “experimental art form” that is not meant to sound redundant. The Drexel music major began her journey into music through poetry in middle school. She wrote her first song at nine, “a complex topic for a nine-year-old to tackle” because it was about her grandmother speaking to her recently deceased grandfather. This musical passion then transitioned into making songs more regularly on GarageBand. During her years at Drexel she has taken advantage of the studios to produce her own higher quality music. Working for both indie and major labels alike on her co-ops, Johnson has also written for and worked with many other musicians. In the future, Johnson hopes to work in Artists and Repertoire (A&R) at a label or grow her own music by becoming a musician at the Universal label. soundcloud.com/tilynne

TIFFANY JOHNSON photo by Christopher Tyler Siracusa

DOG PAWS DESCRIBES themselves as a “3-piece rock” band. The band includes vocalist, guitarist and Drexel engineering student Jacque Tawney along with bassist Niko Marks and drummer Emily Richards. The band’s name came together because of each member’s love for animals. They are all vegan, advocates for animals and, of course, dog lovers. Dog Paws says that they are inspired by musicians like Willow Smith as well as the American indie rock band Wye Oak, with a mix of acoustic and electric guitar to create a dream pop sound but a bit more “grungy and less refined.” While the band does not dance much during their performances, Tawney says that performers like Beyoncé and Rihanna inspire her because, “Inside we’re dancing.” The band recently released their album “Mutual Worship” made with the help of Drexel Music major Dave Bartler. The album’s name was inspired by the band’s appreciation for each member. When discussing the meaning of the album title and her band, Tawney stated, “When you’re mutually loving and putting effort into something, it raises it up even higher.” Tawney’s advice to any aspiring musicians: “Be authentic. Play what feels good and everything else will fall into place.” www.facebook.com/dogpawsswapgod

DOG PAWS photo by Jen McCall

THE CHARISMATIC PERSONALITIES of the three-man band, Mike Pays Heat, are what makes them one of the most talked about bands on campus. The band members, Ian Hunter, Wil Schade and Daniel Siper, came together during their freshman year after meeting in Drexel’s Westphal Learning Community to create indie alternative punk sounds. The band has gained success musically by being signed to the label Dead Medium Records, and they have done three small tours. The band’s name is based on Hunter’s proclamation upon waking one day: “You will never know what it’s like. I’ve been paying heat for 33 years on my own. And for WHAT! I’m done. I’m FINISHED. Mike will be paying the heat now. Mike Pays Heat now.” The strange event stuck with the band enough to create the name. Even with the band’s success they still feel like they cannot give much advice to aspiring musicians because they feel what they did “didn’t work.” If they could go back and change anything they would not change their sound but their appearance, stating, “We should’ve bought more beanies because they were hot sellers and I’d bet we would have had more fans with more beanies.” mikepaysheat.bandcamp.com/

Mike Pays Heat 67

photo by emily dubin

HAROLD GARDE words by AMANDA HINKELMANâ&#x20AC;&#x192;

artwork by HAROLD GARDE

NINETY-THREE GOING ON 40, Harold Garde has achieved what most of us long for in life, the ability to stay forever young. His quick wit and intellect prove that chronological age is just a number. Garde’s uncommon mobility and energy at 93 could be attributed to how he has lived his life. For over 70 years, he has dedicated his life to art: teaching it, creating it and being part of its vibrant world. Garde, recognized as an American Expressionist, chose a path in life less travelled. When he first began to study art as an undergraduate at the University of Wyoming, Abstract Expressionism was an exciting new development in the art world. Garde went on to achieve his Masters of Fine Art at Columbia University as the center of the art world had shifted from Paris to New York. Like many artists in the 1950s, Garde balanced his passion to paint with the responsibility of a family by working as an industrial designer and then becoming an art professor. Garde never compromised his personal integrity by painting for an audience or the marketplace. He states, “My artwork was strictly for me. I could work as an individual by myself without any authority figures. It didn’t matter who I was pleasing.” He is only interested in the work and what it says about humanity, himself, the world and life. Garde’s journey as an artist developed, supported by his formal training and inspired by the advent of Abstract Expressionism and the works of the movement’s emerging masters. While not staying true to the fundamentals of this technique, there was always an

underlying presence of Abstract Expressionism in his work. Over the years, Garde has explored many different types of sophisticated techniques, but he has chosen to create his work in the simplest, most direct, basic form. His motivation was, and, as Garde has said, continues to be, “… what a good painting was supposed to be and what I could do next to explore that. That continued to be in the way in which I worked. I was never painting for a show, a boss or gallery, I was always painting for myself.” His primary medium of choice is acrylic because of the smooth application when painting on a canvas. Garde has also developed a love for printmaking and created a dry image transfer technique he named the “Strappo.” Strappo is identified by the combination of printmaking and painting. While his right fingers are curled in from gripping a paintbrush his entire life, the heartbeat of ever moving New York City, where he grew up, is still alive within him. Now nestled in Maine, he settles into his studio around 9 A.M. each day, paints until noon and then returns after lunch to paint for the remainder of the day. 840 months, 25,000 days, 7 decades of creating over 4,000 works of art that have been archived to date – 1,200 canvasses, 1,100 works on paper, and 1,500 Strappo prints. Garde comments, “I still face a blank canvas with fear and dread. As times change I am never quite convinced that I am doing things that are challenging enough, but then I just start painting and don’t plan what a painting is about.” He continues, “Painting is not a safe activity, it is a challenging one.” 69

front page Iconoclass, 1972-1976 Acrylic on board, 8’ x 22’ 16 panels In the permanent collection of the Museum of Florida Art

top Warrior, 1997 44” x 55” Acrylic on Canvas

above Discovery, 1987 54” x 96” Acrylic on Canvas right happy face, 2001 84” x 56” Acrylic on Canvas

photo by josh demello

historical importance. Loving’s relationship with Garde has evolved beyond just being a business relationship. She says, “Being surrounded by artists and their art has given my life color, a deeper meaning of life and self discovery. We are all changed by art and its presence in our daily walk of life. Without art our lives would be mundane.” Loving believes that art can be used to force you to confront yourself, your thoughts, your stereotypes and your beliefs. Loving is constantly inspired by Garde’s humble spirit and ability to live such an authentic, genuine life. Garde’s views on the ever-changing art world noted that 60 years ago he was looking for social approval. Being an artist and writer was not viewed as a respectable job. He says, “When I look at the art field, strangely enough it almost looks like everything is acceptable today. Now there are all kinds of designs and illustrations, computers have changed the art world completely. There is so much more technology relating to art and its creation. I used to go through so many hoops to get color matching. Now I do it on my iPad.” The way of training and teaching in art has completely transformed since Garde was a student and a professor. While the art world has changed, he encourages artists to, “Try as many things as you like, and try as many aspects of it as you like. Do what makes your heart sing. Know that just because you are doing that could mean that it is a way of life, but not necessarily a means of life.” Artport recently announced a strategic partnership with Artlery, an emerging Boston-based technology company that has created a disruptive, next-generation cloud-based artists’ rights management system. The Artlery platform provides artists and their representatives with a 360-degree view of the body of their work, with related information such as a work’s exhibition history, collection membership and provenance, with integrated social media and web analytics. As a result of a collaboration of Artlery’s state-of-the-art technology and the rare opportunity to have one artist’s entire body of work spanning seven decades, CEO David Thompson says, “Harold Garde will have the largest, most comprehensively documented, and well tracked portfolio of any living artist.” In today’s society, often artist success is gauged by their notoriety and the level of economic achievement, but what happened to the ideology of creating art just to create art, as a form of self expression, as something to give back to the world? Now, at 93, Artlery provides Garde with the opportunity to share his brilliant life’s work with a worldwide audience. Garde lives for art, every good and bad day there has been a canvas and paintbrush waiting for him. Garde is a painter, a creator, a poet, a playwright, he is the true definition of an artist, one who expresses himself in many art forms. Remember the name Harold Garde. The paintings he creates at 98 could be the best ones yet.

Each brush stroke has intent. Each color and mark has an impact. His choices, color, subject and scale all come together to stir a reaction. He states he wouldn’t make his paintings so large if he didn’t want them to be noticed. Garde’s goal is to make viewers stop in their tracks when looking at his art. He says, “I want the work to have a look of freshness and visual demand. I want my work to stimulate ideas that are not necessarily mine. I like to believe that someone will look at my work and somehow be a little bit smarter than they would be if they hadn’t taken the time to study my painting.” Garde’s 2001 painting, Happy Face, a six-foot-tall abstract face rendered in bright colors, is a striking piece in his collection. Garde’s portraits are of psychological states and not of real people – emotions are in painted form. In expressing his own life experiences, Garde often paints from a deeper emotional place, one that he has experienced personally, translating the spectrum of emotion in his work – one can say, a form of therapy for him. Viewers can see Garde’s life, world events and the depth of his creative source in his artwork. A retrospective of Garde’s work unfolds a narrative, a progression of Garde’s life and the cultural evolution, sometimes revolution, emerging in the world. From World War II, Apollo 11’s moon landing, the war in Vietnam, political conflict, the civil rights movement, the explosion of pop art and music, the advent of television, cell phones, computers and iPads, experimental art techniques – each informing, influencing Garde’s work across the decades. Garde never chased fame or fortune for his artistic endeavors. Creating has been a means of expression and a portal to connect to the world around him. In his lifetime Garde has had over two hundred gallery shows, significant museum exhibitions and acquisitions of his work. Due to the absence of self promotion along with living a humble life, Garde remained an under-recognized talent in the art world – until now. Like Basquiat and Dubuffet, Garde created a vast amount of work in the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s that was considered ahead of its time. Convinced at the age of 90 by his family to start remarketing his work by a mutual friend, Garde and his family met Nancy Loving, a former gallery director who was in search of an expanded career path. After meeting Garde and seeing his work, Loving was inspired. She felt Garde was the type of artist she wanted to represent, “the real deal,” a painter’s painter. Loving formed Artport, LLC to foster the process for transitioning an undiscovered treasure into a rediscovered master. While the journey has been challenging for Loving to elevate his stature in the art world, she remains dedicated to focusing on gallery and museum exhibitions and critical recognition. Archiving thousands of works, placing Garde’s work in permanent collections, both public and private, and producing documentary films revealed his true genius and

Mirroring the Media D&M magazine’s editor-in-chief reflects on how beauty is portrayed in mass media and her steps to obtain it. words by BRIEANA GAGLIOTI

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

I DON’T LIKE magazines. I realize the irony in that statement, but it is the truth. I love fashion and I love merchandising, enough to pursue them as a degree and yet I cannot bring myself to thoroughly enjoy magazines. It is a constant challenge to avoid attention-grabbing headlines and to turn the other way when I see my favorite celebrity grace the cover of a magazine I used to love. But it is a personal choice that I try and stick to. I want to be clear – it isn’t that I don’t want to read the article on my favorite celeb, or that I don’t want to flip through the pages of glamorous photo shoots and beautiful campaign ads, because I do. But what I don’t care to see are the consistent headlines like the following: How to Lose 10 lbs in 10 Days, 7 Fat Burning Foods you Need in your Diet!, The Secret to Full Luscious Lips! Somewhere in almost every magazine you will find some variation of a headline that is giving you advice on how to improve your appearance or how to lose weight or how to tone up this body part or that one. Conveniently, there will also be seemingly flawless celebrities or models to compare yourself. Even Instagram photos have their own way of being manipulated, as there are now apps that exist for the primary use of editing your photos before posting them on social media. Although the emphasis seems to be on body image and weight, the media affects our perception of beauty in every way. I am no exception to this. From the third to the tenth grades, I spent the majority of my time being self conscious about my body and my weight. I couldn’t get thin enough, fast enough. I was growing up at the same time that models were known to be an irregular species that never ate, and despite all efforts, I could not get my 5’2” frame to look like the women on the runway. However, times have changed and now we are faced with new and exciting challenges. It’s no longer in trend to be unreasonably thin – in fact the only thing about a woman’s body that needs to be unreasonably small is her waist. We now have the luxury of trying to maintain a waist that is the circumference of a solo cup, and an ass that resembles two basketballs more than any functioning body part. In addition to ridiculously proportioned curves, I am bombarded with images of olive complexions, big eyes, luscious lips and hair that’s photoready every minute of the day. When I approached my senior year, I stopped just looking and envying other women and began to actively and persistently try and find my own self confidence. I started exercising and eating better and I started to find that when I did compare myself to the women in the magazines, I wasn’t nearly as upset as I used to be. At about the same time, Kylie Jenner had reached around 50 million Instagram followers. She was everywhere. The Kardashian family was and still is on every billboard, every TV commercial, every magazine, and everywhere you turn on social media. Like it or not, their influence on culture is undeniable, and it has most certainly influenced me. I found myself in a position to undergo my first

cosmetic procedure. I had decided I wanted bigger, fuller lips. Like Kylie, I realized lip injections were the way to go. When I approached my doctor for my first consultation, I came eager and prepared to show her all the images I found that would be an ideal outcome from my first procedure. When I showed her the picture of Kylie Jenner, she looked at me in such a way that I knew I certainly was not the first person to show her that image. Dr. Ellen Cash has been performing cosmetic procedures for 15 years. Her daily procedures include skin care treatments, lasers and injections, though she has focused primarily on injections in her more recent years of practice. A few months later in an interview, she explained to me that nearly every person she has performed the procedure on has given her a photo of the Kardashians. “It’s hard when people have unrealistic expectations. When you come in with a picture of a Kardashian’s lips and you want those lips, and you anatomically don’t have that to start with, I have to be honest and say that I can’t give you what you don’t have. I can only enhance what’s already there. I would say 90 percent of the younger people bring in a picture of Kylie Jenner and tell me that’s what they want.” In a small survey conducted at Drexel University, 100 percent of those answering indicated that from middle school and onward they have been self conscious about how they looked. When asked if they compared themselves to any celebrities or public figures, it was no surprise that the Kardashians came up as the leading celebs that millennials see and aspire to look like. It was then that I began to fully understand the direct impact that this family had on the way that people are aspiring to look. This notion of tan skin, slim waists, large breasts, hips, lips and eyes has most certainly infiltrated our everyday approach to beauty. It is no longer the magazines and the runways that are dictating fashion, beauty and public perception of how they are defined. It is the socialites, celebrities and public figures like the Kardashians that are setting the trends and dictating who and what are on the cover of major fashion magazines like Vogue. I can’t write that just because I don’t buy magazines, I’m not affected by them. I am. I’ll always be affected by who’s on the cover, or what I’ve seen on Instagram yesterday, today and even tomorrow. What I have learned, both about beauty and how to obtain it, is that even our most elite, our most admired and valued celebs have been insecure enough about something on their bodies enough to change it. Kylie Jenner has admitted to lip injections because it was an insecurity of hers. If you look at the rest of the Kardashian clan, it is safe to say that their looks have significantly and dramatically changed over the course of time, and it has been anything but natural. What I have noticed, from personal experience and from conducting a survey of my peers is that insecurity, as awful as it is, is comfortingly unbiased. It affects all age, race, gender and everything in between. It is encompassing and unfriendly, but can most certainly be conquered. 73

Beauty HACKS Try these simple beauty hacks you can do in the comfort of your own home. Save those extra coins from the name brands for natural alternatives. words by SARAH OH

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

BABY POWDER four uses ingredients Baby Powder Dry shampoo. Mattify lipstick. Baking and setting makeup. Plumps lashes – use before putting mascara on.

FOUR USES

for coconut oil ingredients Coconut Oil Hair mask for dry hair. Leave on for 15 minutes and rinse off! Makeup remover. Natural moisturizer. Helps skin irritation and stops wrinkles. Homemade deodorant. Has antibacterial properties that help fight bad odor!

FACE MASK for oily skin ingredients ½ Cup of Cooked Oatmeal 1 Egg 1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice Cook oatmeal and set aside to cool. Mix all ingredients together. Spread evenly onto face, avoiding areas around eyes and leave on for 15 minutes. Wipe off with hot towel and wash excess off.

Lemon Juice removes dead skin cells and excess oils, and the oatmeal soothes and calms redness.

RAW COCOA as bronzer ingredients Cocoa Powder Makeup Brush Dip makeup brush into cocoa powder and tap off excess. Apply to your face in areas you want to contour. (Cheeks, nose and chin)

Cocoa contains high levels of antioxidants and is a rich source of sulfur, which helps develop healthy skin, hair and nails.

FOOD MASK for dry skin ingredients 1 Avocado 2 Tablespoons Plain Yogurt 1 Tablespoon Olive Oil 1 Tablespoon Honey Scoop avocado into a bowl. Measure yogurt, olive oil and honey. Combine all products in the bowl and mix until the texture is smooth. Spread evenly on face, avoiding areas around eyes and leave for 15 minutes. Wipe off with hot towel and wash excess off.

“The omega fatty acids in avocado and olive oil help seal cracks between skin cells,” says Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. Honey and yogurt help soften and plump skin.

GREEN TEA BAGS to get rid of eye bags ingredients 2 Green Tea Bags A Cup of Hot Water Steep tea bags in water for 2 minutes. Put tea bags in refrigerator for 20 minutes to let cool down. Apply tea bags under eyes for 6 minutes. Wash face or dab off wet spots with a dry towel.

Green tea’s caffeine helps reduce puffiness and tightens skin under the eyes.

Step aside, ladies! We’re about to get some company at our local Sephora stores, and it’s not from our sisters. Turns out, there are a lot of men who love wearing makeup just as much as women do to cover up flaws and enhance their features. words by BRIEANA GAGLIOTI + CHRISTINA FRANTZ

WITHIN THE PAST year, one of the biggest names in makeup announced its new face – and it was a big deal. James Charles, 17-yearold non-celebrity male, is the new face of Covergirl – which is a huge step not only for the makeup industry, but for society. The truth is, you don’t have to be a woman to wear makeup. More men than ever before are turning to makeup for confidence, to be comfortable in their skin and to look great. Now more than ever before, social media has created a safer space for individuals regardless of their sex to finally express themselves. We have emerged to an era that promotes social change, which in turn has begun to blur gender roles and sexuality. James Christopher Darling, a senior Interior Design major at Drexel University, is one of many men that enjoys incorporating makeup into his everyday life. He explained that he feels that it is his human right to wear makeup. “Human societies have used the practice for longer than one can say. African tribes wore it to war, French monarchs wore it to court and old English actors wore it to work... All men, by the way. Even animals will use nature to their advantage and create a makeup out of what they can for survival purposes. This is why I decided to wear it.” When asked what reactions he gets from wearing makeup, Darling replied, “I probably receive more social reactions to my carrying a handbag or painting my nails than wearing makeup... It’s more noticeable. I have never worn mascara without people asking about it, or lipstick without catching some kind of attention. Some are very negative, but some are extremely positive. I find that the negative reactions come from exactly the type of person you’d expect...the type of people who get dressed in the morning to get dressed and not to express themselves.” Jordan, a current student and mutual friend said, “The first time I ever put on makeup was right after I witnessed RuPaul’s Drag Race. I was in sixth grade, and I was immediately inspired to make up my face the same way those men did. They seemed so free and confident, and it seemed that the makeup made them that way. That is how I wanted to feel so I tried it out. “I felt ashamed at first so I would apply it late at night around 1:00 A.M. so that no one would see and judge me. I started out wearing a harsh contour and highlight just as I saw the drag queens wearing. As I grew more confident, I began to wear it in public thinking that no one would be able to tell and that I actually looked normal. I thought it was untouchable. Wow, was I wrong. Now I

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

use Burt’s Bees foundation and wear it everyday, finishing it off with a translucent professional powder. I love the way that it covers my flaws and makes me feel as if I can hide behind a mask.” Alex, a former co-worker from New York admits, “At first I felt weird applying makeup on my face, because well, I am a dude, a straight dude. But this wasn’t eye makeup or lipstick or anything like that. It felt good to hear my sister and friends saying that I’ve never looked so healthy and asking if I had been hitting the gym and eating differently. I still wear concealer sometimes under my eyes if I’m having a bad day but mostly on a damn pimple that shows up. I now use an eyebrow gel and get my eyebrows tweezed professionally because I have learned that good eyebrows really shape your face. No one can even tell that I wear makeup, but if I decide to tell them, people are generally surprised but supportive and the guys I tell all ask me what I use so they can try it out. My girlfriend also really likes it, she tells me my eyebrows make me look more masculine, and it seems that I have thicker hair. I am a huge advocate of men to wear makeup. I too hate that there is a stigma that only women can wear it, or that it is a feminine thing at all.” Sam Eisenstat, a recent Drexel grad, added, “Male usage of makeup as a social construct or message to others or for the sole purpose of removing blemishes has been frowned upon for a long time. I’m sure there are still naive people in the world who are of the view that it is inappropriate for men to use makeup for any purpose. However, I am of the view that these people don’t truly understand what being confident and happy with oneself truly means. Makeup has helped me along with many other men to gain confidence and become happier. It is important for us as a community to shatter any stigmas against men using makeup because we too have the right to look and feel the way that we want even if our skin is not perfect. For some men, makeup is the solution and the world must start recognizing this.” Sexuality and makeup are two completely different things. Though society will tell us makeup is strictly for women and some gay men, it is okay to break the rules. You wouldn’t believe the amount of times a frat guy with a pimple asked me to help him cover it up. Everyone wants to be more attractive, even men. And now more than ever even straight men are catching on. Mens makeup lines are launching all over the world, and in other countries it is not weird for men to experiment. Be open and experimental and you might just like what you end up seeing in the mirror.

Makeup has helped me along with many other men to gain confidence and become happier.

VOGUE to vintage Celebrities are always one step ahead when it comes to fashion. Their outfits always seems so planned and well put together. So when we flip through magazines or scroll through Pinterest to figure out fashion trends for the coming season, it’s no wonder that we are usually inspired by celebrity looks. Here are some trending looks that are achievable through local Philadelphia thrift stores words by SAMANTHA CLIFFORD

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

KENDALL JENNER IS giving us a

THIS LOOK WAS all about finding

lesson in making a graphic tee fashionable. Here she is pairing a graphic tee with a cropped leather jacket and some super skinny jeans. She tops off this simple look with black pointed booties, matching handbag and oversized glasses. Her look is simple, understated and edgy all at the same time.

the classics and staples of your wardrobe. I needed simple classic blue jeans with a graphic tee and a staple leather jacket. It didn’t matter that the tee was white. I needed to find something that had the same cool and effortless feel that Kendall’s look had. The jacket was the hardest part of this look but there were a few options for us to pick from. I ultimately picked this fitted cropped jacket because it felt like a go-to piece that can add some edge to an outfit. Then I finished the look off with a simple leather booty.

HERE ASHLEY OLSEN is making a

THE MOST IMPORTANT part of this

flannel look fun and new with all of her layers. She has a simple flannel and a tailored black blazer over and adds a coordinating scarf. This look creates a fun alternative to a piece that we see all the time. She then pairs it with black skinny jeans and chunky heeled boots. And lastly, she throws on a coordinating hat, handbag and glasses giving her the perfect finishing touches to transform this average clothing to a unique outfit.

look is the flannel so I wanted to make sure that I chose just the right one. Then I found a black blazer that would layer well. The black skinny jeans and leather boots were a quick find and the hat took a little bit of digging. Then I topped off the look with an oversized bag.

RIHANNA IS ALWAYS changing up her style. She wears simple outfits like this and others that are funkier. This style is a classic day look. She has a cream colored oversized button down blouse tucked into cropped skinny jeans. She adds simple nude heels to accent the look. What really ties all these pieces together to turn them into an outfit is the fun layering of accessories. She pairs simple necklaces with abstract ones and she does the same with her bracelets. She finishes her look with an oversized clutch to add contrast to her light and airy outfit.

FOR THIS OUTFIT, I thought that

ZENDAYA IS KNOWN for having a funky and fun street style. This outfit perfectly depicts that look. She starts the look off with a cropped sweatshirt and puts a delicate long necklace underneath. She also adds a pair of big hoop earrings to accent the necklace. She then puts a scrunched up fitted skirt to contradict the sweatshirt as statement. She is also wearing sneakers to finish off this style that is comfortable and interesting.

THIS LOOK IS about mixing a skirt

GIGI HADID IS a super model whose

THIS OUTFIT WAS very easy to find for the most part. There were a billion-different green cropped pants to choose from. So, I started there and picked a pair that was similar in style and had the same elastic look at the bottom. Next, I found a simple black crop top. Although there were no short sleeve cardigans to pick from, I went with a long sleeve black one that still stuck with the same look. The other hard part was the shoes – there weren’t any snake skin boots but I did find a pair of snake skin heels that gave the same pop as her boots.

finding the right jeans was one of the most important parts. It was hard to find faded jeans that were skinny, but as long as you dig long enough anything can be found at the thrift store. Then I grabbed a loose fitting white blouse and a pair of nude heels which I thought best matched Rihanna’s style. The jewelry is a big part of this look so I had to spend some time going through bracelets, watches and necklaces in order to find ones that added a little extra something to a rather basic outfit. I also wanted to make sure that the clutch that I picked was large but still simple so that it didn’t distract from the look.

with more casual clothing. So, I found a tight-fitting middy skirt that was a stretch knit because it had the same feel as the skirt Zendaya was wearing. Then I looked for a cropped sweatshirt. This was probably the hardest piece to find since it had to be nice enough to wear with the skirt. Then I found a pair of Adidas to finish off this fun look.

fashion choices are always on trend and seamlessly put together. In this everyday outfit, she pairs green cropped pants with a black crop top. She then layers a sleeveless cardigan overtop to give her outfit dimension, but what makes her outfit pop are her statement shoes. Then she finishes off her look by adding an oversized handbag and funky ’70’s inspired round glasses.

Rockin’ Roasters The world knows Joey Kramer as a rock legend who has been the drummer for Aerosmith for over four decades, but he is making a new name for himself in an entirely different industry – coffee. words by AMANDA HINKLEMAN

photo by Zack Whitford

FIVE YEARS AGO Joey Kramer and his wife, Linda, were walking the

and Ethiopia. Kramer wants the brand to be gourmet coffee that people can depend on. He says he drinks two cups of coffee in the morning, mixing the sumatra with his organic single sourced espresso. Rockin’ & Roastin’ can be found at local grocery stores in Texas, online at the Rockin’ & Roastin’ website, and Amazon. In loyalty to Kramer’s Boston roots he has chosen to roast his beans at a company in Andover, Massachusetts. When Kramer was first looking to start this endeavor, his team had a difficult time finding a roaster that would work with him. Eventually they found Comfort Foods. He was happy to keep his ties to a place he called home for decades. While Rockin’ & Roastin’ currently uses an external roaster for their beans, Kramer hopes to one day do everything himself, internally, and be his own roaster. Most would assume that Kramer’s fame would allow him to easily launch this brand, but that has not been the case. In most people’s eyes musicians are not good businessmen, making some investors and customers question the value and credibility of the brand. Kramer and his team are working with a very low budget having already invested everything they can in the company. He notes that sales have been slim because of the price point, which is right in the middle of the coffee market. It is a luxury coffee with a middle tier price point. Why? Kramer wants the coffee to be accessible to the general public and be a product that people can rely on. Customers are unsure they want to try a lower priced brand, assuming it is a lower quality coffee. Kramer isn’t in any hurry to make money. It is all about the product and the customers. Kramer has always loved a challenge, and starting this company has continued to challenge him every single day. While it hasn’t been the easiest endeavor, Kramer wouldn’t change it. Kramer’s drive to succeed is what drives the company. He doesn’t considered himself a quitter and refuses to give up. The bottom line is that Rockin’ & Roastin’ is selling really good coffee and Kramer is grateful to anyone who tries it. “The proof is in the pudding, I have never come across someone who didn’t like my coffee after they tried it.” At the end of the day Kramer just wants to sell coffee.

streets of Italy when Linda suggested that Kramer start his own coffee brand. After complaining for decades about the coffee that is available to the public, his wife had had enough and proposed Kramer do something about it. For many the idea of starting a business is a daunting and unrealistic dream, but for this Rock and Roll Hall of Famer – and family friend – his dream and vision turned into his latest project, Rockin’ & Roastin’. Some may ask, what qualifies Aerosmith’s drummer to sell coffee? It started with passion and drive. Kramer decided to invest in this endeavor because he wanted something outside of Aerosmith. He has been a team player for over 40 years and wanted a solo act. It only seemed fitting that the coffee industry is what he gravitated to since he has a passion for the product. Having traveled the world Kramer knows what makes a good cup of coffee and what he was seeing on the market was disheartening. Through the good and bad, through his travels, and life in Aerosmith, coffee has always been a constant in his life. Let’s talk coffee. Why this coffee, is it just because Joey Kramer’s name is behind the brand? No. This is Kramer’s “personal baby.” This isn’t a novelty item that he is just cashing the check for. He says that he would never put his name on anything he didn’t believe in. Kramer started this company from the very beginning and will continue to help it grow. He says, “I have been very hands-on with creating this brand. I came up with the packaging, the logo and other design elements. I take as much part in it as I can. I am very concerned with the upkeep of the company… bigger companies get preoccupied with the quantity over quality, I am not looking to be that kind of company.” For all of the coffee fanatics out there who think Starbucks is the greatest or worst, here is why Rockin’ & Roastin’ is the coffee for you. What makes this coffee unique is that it is a single sourced coffee, which is purer than other coffees on the market. Most coffees on the market are a blend, making the coffee less pure and having a bad aftertaste. One of the founding principles of this coffee is that it is organic. The brand has three types of coffee – Sumatra, Guatemala 80

SERVING SOUTHEASTER PA: BUCKS, BERKS, LEHIGH, MONTGOMERY, PHILADELPHIA, DELAWARE, CHESTER, SKHUYLKILL, LEBANON, LANCASTER & NORTHHAMPTON SCOTT C SNYDER SCSNYDERROOFINGANDREMODELING@OUTLOOK.COM (267)-897-6022

JAWN APPéTIT *

Philadelphia is known for its cheesesteaks, hoagies, soft pretzels and water ice and boasts a long list of each to try. These places are also tourist traps with long lines so they might not be for you. Get a true taste of Philadelphia with these local treats that won’t break the bank. words by VICTORIA ROYCE

photography by CHIRSTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

Go Popcorn Company

* Jawn: unique vernacular used to refer to a thing, place, person, or event that one cannot give a specific name to.

BUTTERY MOVIE STYLE $2.99 112 South 12th St

Go Popcorn delivers the movie theatre taste minus the movie. Honestly, the popcorn is the best part of going to the movies anyway. The strong buttery aroma hits you before you walk through the door. Their Buttery Movie Style popcorn is crunchy, salty and better than the real thing. With their butter machine you get to choose if you want your popcorn to swim in butter or just have a light coat. 82

Dos Tacos Churros $3 120 S 15th St

Franklin Fountain COFFEE & HYDROX COOKIE IN A WAFFLE CONE $8.50

Lore’s Chocolates Milk Chocolate Disks $12 1/2 lb 34 S 7th St

116 Market St

Dos Tacos churros are coated in cinnamon sugar and will give you a rush. Their churros are what you would have if donuts and funnel cake had a baby; fried dough that is soft, crispy and delicious. Despite being fried, these churros are light and airy so you won’t regret them later on in the day. Dos Tacos makes it possible to enjoy street fare any day of the week.

Worth the brainfreeze anytime of the year. Franklin Fountain is the best place to get your ice cream fix. For a treat that’s twice as sweet, layer their coffee and Hydrox cookie flavors in a waffle cone. The coffee flavor is the perfect balance of sweet and bitter, and Hydrox cookie is better than Oreos dipped in milk. The waffle cone is a palate cleanser, keeping a sugar rush at bay.

Hershel’s Deli

Tea Do

51 N 12th St

132 N 10th St

Love at first bite. Sink your teeth into the tender pastrami sandwich served at Hershel’s Deli. As you watch your sandwich being artfully crafted in front of you, your patience thins. Unwrapping your fresh sandwich from the tinfoil releases steam and heavenly smells. The pastrami lies upon a toasted piece of rye bread, surrounded by tart sauerkraut and covered in zesty thousand island dressing. The intense smoky flavor of the pastrami shines through this sandwich while not being overpowered by the flavors of its condiments. A traditional sandwich that exceeds expectations.

Tea Do is one of many modern, trendy tea houses that serve boba bubble tea but they happen to have the best taro flavor. Bubble teas are a variety of fruit or milk flavored teas that are served hot or cold with chewy tapioca pearls, and iced milk tea is the one to choose. Milk teas tend to be creamy and a little bit frothy on the top. Taro is a root that gives this bubble tea a slightly nutty, vanilla flavor that isn’t too sweet. What makes or breaks a bubble tea is the tapioca pearls. The consistency of tapioca pearls varies but Tea Do’s bubbles are perfect, soft and chewy with an underlying flavor of honey.

PASTRAMI SANDWICH $10.88

Taro Bubble Tea $3.50

The true test of chocolate is how good it is alone without any gimmicks, and Lore’s Chocolates passes that test. Lore’s is claimed to be home of Philadelphia’s finest chocolate and their rich and smooth milk chocolate is just that. Keep your cravings away by indulging in Lore’s luxuriously satisfying sweets.

Schmear It

Everything Bagel with Scallion Cream Cheese $3.50 3601 Market Street

Philadelphia is not known for its bagels, but Schmear It serves up some fierce competition for the classic New York bagel. Their toasted everything bagel with scallion cream cheese is the best way to start the day. The perfect ratio of poppy seed, sesame seed, garlic, onion and salt covers the exterior while the dough is infused with similar flavors, creating the greatest taste for the least mess. The scallion cream cheese enhances the onion flavor from the bagel and adds a mild bite. Merged together you’ll start your morning off right.

Federal Donuts

Pod

Termini Bros

3428 Sansom St, 1632 Sansom St, 701 N 7th St & 1219 S 2nd St

3636 Sansom St

1701 John F. Kennedy Blvd Reading Terminal Market, N 12th St 1523 S 8th St & 1538 Packer Ave

STRAWBERRY LAVENDER DONUT $1.50

Fresh, fluffy and flaky is all you could want from a donut, and Federal Donuts does not disappoint. Their hot fresh donuts are made to order and are deliciously warm and cakey. The strawberry lavender donut stands out among the other options for its unique flavor combination; creating the taste of just picked strawberries with just a hint of lavender. Rolled in granulated sugar makes this donut even sweeter and a finger-licking good breakfast.

ROCKIN SPICY TUNA $14 Asian fusion restaurants are popular, and spicy tuna rolls are equally common. But Pod adds a little kick to their version. Nori is wrapped around avocado and tuna coated in spicy mayo and topped with a tempura rock shrimp. This roll takes a classic to the next level with its shrimp soaked in spicy aioli. Between the spicy mayo and spicy aioli this roll is just short of being fiery but will be sure to turn up the heat on your taste buds.

Cannolis $4

A taste so rich you won’t believe it’s only $4; Termini Bros cannolis are the best in Philly. Filled on the spot so the fried pastry shell keeps its crunch because no one wants a soggy cannoli. The shell is filled from either end with sweet, creamy ricotta laced with tiny chocolate chips that add subtle texture. Powdered sugar dusted on top is the perfect finishing touch.

TRY SOME DIM SUM words by EMILY CHOWâ&#x20AC;&#x192;

photography by JAMIE LAZARUS

THE FIRST THING to know about dim sum is that it’s not

His dim sum chef Jiang Yihua gives a few pointers for beginners to discern if a restaurant truly is one of the best. “Ha gao (steamed shrimp dumpling) must be tried – the skin must be thin, but won’t break. When you eat it, the skin must have that chewy texture like in chow fun noodles,” he says. “The sifu (chef) should be skilled enough to make the skin of the shrimp dumplings to perfection without overcooking.” The other two dishes in this dim sum trinity are the shu mai (steamed pork dumpling) and cheong fun (rolled rice noodle). If this trinity of dim sum can be made, then the sifu can make any dim sum in his kitchen without trouble. Curious about where to eat? You’re in luck because Philadelphia is the proud city of several dim sum houses. The most traditional ones would be in Chinatown, complete with the weekend crowds and clamorous conversation. Ocean Harbour (1023 Race St), Joy Tsin Lau (1026 Race St) and Ocean City (234 N, 9th St) are three of the most popular ones to visit, but if you’re looking for a traditional style that’s less hectic and with checklist ordering, Nom Wah Tea Parlour on 218 N 13th Street is the way to go. Dim sum doesn’t have to be strictly Southern Chinese – Jane G’s, a spicy Szechuan style restaurant, has decided to try its hand at dim sum with their Dim Sum House on 39th and Chestnut. They incorporate authentic Shanghai dishes along with the routine fare of dim sum. Operations Manager Kevin Fu has attributed dim sum’s popularity to three things: “It’s hangover food, it’s comfort food, and it’s small eats, so you can always have something different.” He also says that dim sum is getting more popular because it’s “migrating outside of the typical Chinatown locations.” A good example of this is Bing Bing Dim Sum on 1648 E. Passyunk Ave, which is more of a fusion type and not run by Chinese people. Its selection is small, but its plates are tasty enough and convey its love for the Southern tradition.

a quiet affair. The restaurant’s lively atmosphere may seem daunting, but it never shuns the hungry. With beginnings in ancient southern China as a food style offered on the Silk Road to weary travellers, dim sum has made its way to the West, making it a popular dish among people of many different backgrounds. The second thing to know is that with all the options offered, you have control of what you eat – you can be brave and try the fung zao (chicken feet) or if you’re feeling like eating old favorites, you can stick with the good ol’ shumai. With so many options, it’s nearly impossible to be bored with this cuisine. The world of dim sum offers myriad small dishes, endless tea pots and happy memories. Just as chicken noodle soup is for the soul, dim sum is for the spirit. Dim sum in Philadelphia ranges from the traditional to the reimagined, but without knowing the tradition or accompanied with a Chinese friend, eating it can be frightening, especially when the regulars are speaking the harsher Southern dialect known as Cantonese and the workers are seemingly ignoring you. The first question almost always asked as soon as you are seated is “What tea do you want?” and you normally have several options: bolay (pu-erh/Chinese red tea), gook fa (chrysanthemum), wu-long (oolong), or lung-jeng (dragonwell). The next thing to do is to order the food, and when the push carts come around to your table, it’s perfectly acceptable to point to the dish you want. There are two styles of serving dim sum – push cart or checklist. While push cart is more traditional, there are plenty of restaurants with checklist style. A restaurant with push carts has a sense of immediacy, with the carts coming from every direction and the added pressure to flag one down. However, you can also see the food immediately and smell the savory aromas. Checklist style is much more relaxed, with the food names and sometimes descriptions on the menu. The food will also be coming out fresh rather than sitting in the steamer as the cart gets pushed around. That being said, neither is wrong, and both are equally delicious. Kwok Sang Chow, manager of Sang Kee Asian Bistro (339 E Lancaster Ave, Wynnewood, PA) doesn’t think dim sum is a hard dish to make, but it is hard labor because everything must be handmade. To make it tasty, you need a chef who knows how to use the dough and the proper amount of stuffing in the dumplings or noodle rolls. He also adds that dim sum is harder to do in smaller restaurants because in order to make a profit, you need many customers enjoying it, “That’s why many dim sum places are large. If it’s too small, then there’s less seating, and less seating means less people ordering.”

Meet Me at the

Salad Bar

words by SAMANTHA CLIFFORD

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

IN A WORLD where people are becoming more and more socially aware and conscious of their health it is not surprising to see that the vegan population is growing. People are starting to realize the impact that the animal industry has. People choose to become vegans for many reasons. Personal health, the environment and the ethical treatment of animals are all considerations. This is a personal choice that is more than a diet. It is a lifestyle that has a purpose. Being vegan does not guarantee that you will be eating healthy, but there are proven health benefits. Philadelphia student Sejal Patel switched to veganism after being diagnosed with ulcerative colitis. “Getting a colostomy bag was becoming more and more plausible as time went on. I was having flare ups and missing class at least once a week. I had tried many different types of medicine and was beginning to feel helpless.” She has now been vegan for a year and a half and has only experienced one flare up. Vegans say that our bodies were not meant to digest animal products. The nutrients that we gain from them can be obtained other ways. If a person eats a diet that is rich in veggies, fruits and whole grains they will be able to maintain proper nutrition as well as cut back on dangers that come along with eating foods that are not as good for you. Animals are both companions and food. They provide us with nutrition and they keep us company. For some of us this line is easy to draw. There is a distinction between our food and our pets. For vegans, however this isn’t the way. Rachel Atcheson, from the Human League spoke at Drexel University and she described the bond between cows. They

have friends and they create cliques. They strive when they are able to move around and be social. When we take them out of their natural environment and put them into the industrial farms, it creates a very stressful environment. A lot of cows will never see light. They are crammed into tiny spaces where they barely can move. They get separated from their babies which causes them to cry. They are pushed and prodded by workers. This is the sad truth, and for vegans it’s a driving reason to not eat or use meat. Atcheson said that a fleeting pleasure that comes from meat is not worth the suffering of a cow. Emotions for the animals aside, there are other ethical issues when it comes to the meat industry that most of us don’t think about. Have you ever thought about the impact that it has on the environment? Rachel Black, the Director of Grassroots at the Humane League explained the profound impact that it has. Large animals like cows and pigs produce a lot of waste, which is a direct pollutant. The food industry is the largest cause of greenhouse gases, according to Black. These animals that we eat also need to eat. During Atcheson’s presentation she pointed out that South America is consistently losing forests and that is largely due to the fact that they need more room for agriculture. The animals that we eat consume the majority of food produced on that land. That food could be going to hungry people. Is it wrong to eat the animals? That’s a personal question. Is it bad for the environment? That’s a fact. If we want to cut down on greenhouse gases maybe we need to change our eating habits. 87

taste of tea words by EMILY CHOW

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

THE WORLD OF tea is as luxurious as wine and as invigorating as a nice run on stressful days. Like wine or coffee, the tea leaves’ final taste is dependent on variables that the common consumer may not know. In the end, it is not about “correctness,” but rather, the enjoyment of this ancient beverage. There are many ways to taste the luxury of tea – either by experiencing it fully with your entire being, or simply by tasting the high quality leaves. Emeric Harney of Harney & Sons Tea describes this beverage as a “unique sensory experience. It involves so many of our senses: sight, smell and taste.” Close your eyes and imagine yourself drinking a cup of tea – are you in a crowded cityscape or in the comfort of your peaceful home? Let the aroma wash over you. Does it smell like flowers? Earthy? Fruity? Now take a sip and what do you taste? The comforting warmth and the delicate flavors of white tea, the energetic taste of fruit teas or the meditative earthy flavors of black tea? Is the tea warming your body on a cold winter’s day as you work on your laptop, or is it cooling you down as you sit on your porch languidly turning the pages of a well read book? Many people think of tea as a healthier alternative to coffee or as something to soothe a sick body, but in fact, tea is so versatile. There are tastes for everyone to try. “The anticipation as the cup steeps,” Harney adds, “can be soothing on a busy day, or invigorating on a slow day, full of great flavor and of course, hydrating.” Lucy Yung of Silver Needle Tea Co. likens tea to wine. There are inexpensive leaves for casual days of reading and relaxing or for long study sessions, and then there are high quality tea leaves for indulgence. Single estate teas, which are harvested from one location, are “like wine because it’s all about the earth elements or what we refer to as terroir in wine, such as soil makeup, geography, geology and climate,” Yung explains. Japanese green tea is not the same as Chinese green tea due to differences of the earth where the leaves were harvested. Most casual teas, like peppermint, apple or lavender, are artificially flavored and have had oils added to produce the smell and taste of the notes, which disqualifies it as a pure tea, which, as Yung defines, has nothing added. Yung also describes the few main types of leaves: white, green, oolong and black – each varying in taste and richness. White tea is the lightest of the group and has a more refreshing taste than oolong or black tea, which are known to be stronger and richer, and green tea can range from a smooth buttery taste to a refreshing grassy flavor. Her single estate teas are all grown at least 4000 feet above sea level, and she hopes that people who drink these pure teas grown in beautiful places can “help transport you to where the leaves are from and think about the pristine air these leaves breathe.” Whether you are a tea aficionado or a casual drinker, don’t let it deter you from learning more about the luxurious world of tea. Take a step back from the craziness of everyday life, take a sip from your cup, and just enjoy the taste of tea. 88

Specializing In Custom Biomedical A Polymer Compounding & Resin/Additive Distribution 集團品牌識別系統 GROUP BRAND IDENTITY SYSTEM

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HUNGRY words by COLETTE GRESS

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

CHICKEN AND BROCCOLI STIR-FRY ON A COLLEGE student’s budget it’s hard to get a healthy and delicious meal that doesn’t break the bank or take up too much time. However, there are easy, nutritious recipes out there that can easily be made by a student of any culinary skill. All you have to do is try. The goal is for one shopping trip to provide for multiple meals and even a snack. This way no food, or money, goes to waste. An easy way to do this is with a meal plan for the week and a shopping list at the store; this way you stay on budget. Registered nutritionist, Kamran Ahmad, RD, LDN actually recommends pre-planning meals for the week, and creating a grocery list helps save time and your money when you go to shop. First up, is a quick run to the supermarket Full disclosure: this first week will seem like it is a little bit expensive. Just remember, you are building your pantry and you can make multiple recipes from this one shopping trip, plus have ingredients leftover for future weeks. Here’s your list:

2 tbs olive oil 2 cups broccoli ½ cup carrots cut in strips 2 cups frozen peppers 4 pieces frozen chicken Bag frozen rice ¼ cup Soyaki sauce Pepper Salt 1. Heat 2 tbs olive oil on low heat, cook 4 pieces frozen chicken in the skillet with the lid on. 2. Rotate the chicken every few minutes until thoroughly cooked. 3. Sprinkle pepper and a pinch of salt over the chicken. 4. Place cooked chicken on a cutting board and cut into bite-sized pieces. 5. In the same pan on low heat, add frozen broccoli and peppers. Place lid on pan and let steam until thawed. 6. Add carrot strips and Soyaki sauce, place lid back onto pan for 3 minutes. 7. Add chicken and toss with vegetables. Place the lid back on for 5 minutes. 8. Follow directions to heat up a bag of frozen rice, add to the pan and combine with chicken and vegetables. 9. Add a pinch of pepper over the top and stir. makes 3 serving

Broccoli Florets Baby Carrots Head of Garlic Large Sweet Onion 3 Green Bell Peppers Eggs Bag Grated Cheese Blend Crescent Roll Dough Salt Chili Powder Cumin Pepper Whole Wheat Pasta (whatever kind you like) 1 Bag Frozen Chicken Breasts 2 Cans Unsalted Whole and Peeled Plum Tomatoes Organic Brown Rice 1 Bag Frozen Chopped Bell Peppers Organic Black Beans Soyaki Sauce Mayonnaise Olive Oil

BROCCOLI AND CHEESE BITES 2 cups broccoli 1 cup shredded cheese 3 eggs Salt Pepper 1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 2. Steam broccoli for 5 minutes and then chop into small pieces. 3. Combine broccoli, cheese, eggs and a pinch of salt and pepper in a bowl. 4. On a foil-lined baking sheet and spray with cooking spray, create small patties (the smaller, the crispier they get.) 5. Bake in the oven for 20–25 minutes, making sure to flip them halfway through. 6. Remove from the oven and let them cool for 5 minutes.

THE SECOND STEP is to decide which meal you want to have and make it. All of these recipes will take no more than 30 minutes, perfect for anyone who doesn’t think they have the time to cook.

STUFFED PEPPERS 1 can strained black beans 1 can tomatoes Bag frozen rice ½ chopped onion 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon cumin 3 large green bell peppers 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 2. Follow directions to heat up the bag of frozen rice. 3. In a bowl, mix black beans, rice, onion and canned tomatoes. Combine mixture with chili powder, and cumin. 4. Halve 3 peppers from stem to bottom, remove the stem, clean out the seeds and membranes. 5. Spoon rice mixture into peppers and arrange in baking dish. 6. Bake in oven for 30 minutes and set aside to cool for 5 minutes.

SPICY CHICKEN AND PEPPER PASTA 2 tbs olive oil 2 cups frozen chopped bell peppers 4 pieces chicken breast meat Whole wheat pasta (whatever kind you like) Chili flakes Chili pepper 1. Heat 2 tbs olive oil on low heat, cook 4 pieces frozen chicken in the skillet with the lid on. 2. Rotate the chicken every few minutes until thoroughly cooked. 3. Sprinkle chili powder and a pinch of salt over the chicken, remove from skillet and set the chicken aside to cool slightly. 4. Fill a pot halfway with water to boil, placing over high heat. Once water begins to boil, add three cups of pasta and slightly reduce the temperature. Follow directions to cook pasta to your desired done-ness and drain. 5. On a cutting board, cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces. 6. In the same skillet the chicken was cooked, add two cups of frozen peppers over low heat and place the lid on and let the veggies steam. Once thawed, remove from heat and add a pinch of chilli flakes (more if you want it spicier). 7. Combine chicken, peppers and pasta together in the pot, tossing slightly. Let sit for a few minutes with the lid on. Makes 3 servings

CHICKEN AND BROCCOLI BRAID 1 container crescent roll dough 4 pieces cooked chicken, cut into cubes 1 cup cooked, chopped broccoli ½ cup chopped carrots ¼ cup onions ½ cup mayonnaise ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper 1 clove minced garlic 1 cup cheese 1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees 2. In a bowl, mix chicken, broccoli, carrots, onions, mayo, salt, pepper, garlic and cheese. 3. Unroll crescent roll dough and arrange flat on a baking sheet. Place mixture evenly down the center of the dough. Fold outer edges of the dough inward, covering the chicken mixture and pinch the dough together to seal. 4. Cut slits into the top of the dough 1 inch apart. 5. Bake in oven for 25 minutes or until golden brown. Cut into individual slices. makes 4 servings 91

D.I.Y. home edition words by MEGAN TEASDALE + SYDNEY BLUMâ&#x20AC;&#x192;

photography by CHRISTOPHER TYLER SIRACUSA

ROLLING BAR CART

2. Wipe any dust or dirt off with an all purpose cleaner, then get ready to prime your cart with spray paint primer. 3. Give your cart some life by spraying the sides of it any color, in this case rose gold. Remember to use the spray paint outside! Tip: to get the most out of your spray paint, just spray the sides and not the trays, since they will eventually be covered with contact paper. 4. Get your contact paper ready. Measure the length and width of the trays, leaving a little extra room (it is better too big than too small once it is on the tray). Peel the back of the contact paper off, making sure to smooth out any bubbles along the way. 5. Smooth the contact paper down by pressing hard with your hands until you see the crease where the paper goes over the edges. Once you see that crease, use your exacto knife to carefully cut the excess contact paper off. 6. Decorate your one-of-a-kind rolling cart by adding candles, decorative straws and unique glasses to make all your guests envious with how crafty and stylish your home now is!

A classy way to store all of your chic decor. WHAT YOU WILL NEED Rolling cart All purpose cleaner Paint primer spray Spray paint (rose gold) Contact paper Exacto knife 1. Find the bar cart of your choice by going to a warehouse or a consignment shop near you. Some places in Philly include Phantastic Phinds Antique Vintage & Used Furniture & Home Goods Philadelphia on 8219 Germantown Avenue, as well as Philly AIDS Thrift on 710 South 5th Street.

JEWELRY HOLDER Organize your jewelry using plates and cups. WHAT YOU WILL NEED 2 ceramic plates (one big and one medium) 1 ceramic bowl (small) Cups or mini candle holders Paint Hot glue Sealing spray/gloss

1. Gather your plates and bowl. You can paint these items the same color, or doodle your own design on them. Let your paint/design dry. 2. Spray dishes with a sealing spray or gloss so that it stays shiny and is more easy to clean if it gets dusty. 3. Spray the cups or mini candle holders a different color. We used gold for this DIY. 4. Once all of the parts are coated in paint and dried, you can begin assembling your pieces. Think of a snowman when layering it, biggest at the bottom and tiniest at the top. With a generous amount of hot glue, stack your items and let them dry once you get it set up how you like. 5. Place your jewelry on the stackable decoration you just made. Throw all your rings or earrings in the cup at the top, or even drape some necklaces down the tray. You’re all done!

1. Use a 1” drill bit and drill 2 holes on each side of the plank making sure they measure up equally on each side. 2. Gather four equally long cords of rope that are the colors of your choice. Measure out the rope to make sure it is long enough for the desired length of your shelf. 3. Leave enough room for your rope at the top, since this will be the length your shelf hangs. This will vary based on how high or low you want your shelf to be. Once you’ve measured this out, loop each cord of through the holes you drilled. 4. Tie knots on both sides of each hole to keep the shelf in place. You can leave some fringe at the bottom or simply tie a tight knot underneath. 5. Gather the extra rope that was left at the top of the shelf and tie the end of it into a tight loop. This will allow you to hang the shelf. Taking your eye hook screw, twist it into your ceiling and simply hook the loop onto it and you’re all set to put whatever you want on your new shelf!

HANGING SHELF A simple way to create more storage while simultaneously creating a decorative piece for your apartment. WHAT YOU WILL NEED 1 plank of wood (15”) 4 cords of rope Drill Eye hook screw Paint (optional)

suck Succulents

taking the out of

words by COLETTE GRESS

illustrations by EMILY CHOW

SOME PEOPLE THINK that succulents are easy to care for and that they’re perfect for those of us with black thumbs. But experience has shown me (and a few plants) that this isn’t true. Not only do you miss out on the plant trend, you miss out on health benefits. Research has shown that plants in a living space can improve concentration and reduce mental fatigue, tension, stress, fear and anger. If you want to be successful with succulents, here is tried and true advice on how to take the suck out of caring for succulents, or at least keep them alive. First, you can’t keep them as they were when you bought them from Trader Joe’s. You must make sure that they have good drainage, which is very easy to fix. Take the plant and soil out of the pot (not throwing away either) and place a layer of rocks on the bottom of the pot. Replant your succulent with loosely packed soil and your little succ now has good drainage. Like all plants, succulents need light to survive. The recommended time is six hours – any more and they will burn. I like to keep mine on my window ledge for most of the year and then in the summer, move them to a nearby table. Some people think succulents never need to be watered. Not true. Underwatering is the second highest cause of succulent death, with overwatering being number one. The proper amount of water is just enough to get the soil wet. So once a week I water my succulents enough so that water drains from the bottom. It isn’t hard to take the suck out of a succulent. Think of their needs as the basics of how you take care of yourself during finals week: you need proper drainage, light and water to survive – not too much or you won’t pass, and not too little or you will fail. Keep your little succs alive and you’ll reap the benefits.

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