Expat life in Thailand June/July17

King’s Cup elephant polo

Lady Diana a fashion icon

The headhunters of Nagaland

Adventure in Bagan Discovering Penang

RCB Auctions - Where Bangkok’s most prestigious auction takes place

River City Bangkok has continuously housed RCB Auctions which is the leading auction house with its well-received auction in Thailand for over 30 years. In fact, it is one of the most important art and antique auction houses in Southeast Asia.

The history of RCB Auctions can be traced back to when it was established in 1985 to promote arts and antiques.

Since then, this auction house has continuously held auctions for over three decades and continued to be a place for passionate art and antique collectors to gather items that interest them. From exquisite porcelain to marvellous sculptures, the auctions have seen striking pieces of history come through and brought home by those who are fortunate to win out their bids.

Located on the fourth floor of River City Bangkok, RCB Auctions is now widely accepted among art connoisseurs around the world. The auctions here offer the ideal platform for buyers and sellers to exchange rare antiques and share invaluable knowledge on the subjects.

In addition, each item in the auction is carefully examined, evaluated and certified by a panel of experts from the Association for the Propagation and Promotion of Objets d’Art so the authenticity is guaranteed.

As such, if you look for a piece to accent your home or simply want to experience the subtle intensity of an auction, don’t forget to visit RCB Auctions. Stay a while and you will observe and learn some auctioning strategies.

Investing in collections of arts and antiques is also an alternative wealth preservation.

The next Grand Auction will take place on Saturday 5th August 2017. Collectors as well as art and antique connoisseurs will be presented with over 300 pieces of rare and precious collectibles at the auction, which will start from 12.30 pm onwards at RCB Auctions, 4th floor, River City Bangkok. All lots in the auction are available for viewing 10 days prior to the auction date.

For enquiries and consignment, please visit www.rcbauctions.com email: auction@rivercity.co.th or contact tel. 02 237 0077-8 ext. 459 for more information.

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The Canadian Ambassador

contents

12

The Irish Ambassador

16

The white Buddha of Nha Trang

20

Malaysian inspirations

24

Discovering Penang

30

Classic cars in Pattaya

32

Epic adventure in Bagan

36

Halong Bay

40

Beyond the mountains

44

Return to Krabi

48

Perfect headstand

52

Island yoga

58

ISAT welcomes Mike Connor

63

Teacher has a plan

106

Finding passion in the tropics

64

Law and education

108

Vietnam rising

66

Qualifications vs manners

110

Gourmet corner

72

European ski trip

112

The headhunters of Nagaland

76

Meet the artist

118

Pad Thai eyes

80

Healthy family

120

Superwomen

84

Michelin star grazing

124

Bangkok fashion week

88

King’s Cup elephant polo

126

Busy women project

92

The Freedom Story

128

Fast fit paced lifestyle

94

Make classical music cool

130

Bullying

97

Lady Diana - a fashion icon

132

Losing a parent

100

Changing colours

134

Pilates

102

My Dad’s 70th

135

Social gallery

104

TPO concerts

142

Expat holidays

Accounts Panumas Kayan (Daow) daow.elbkk@gmail.com

Administration Wittaya Buckley wit.elbkk@gmail.com

Art Dew Piyaman dew@elbkk.com

Accountant Premchit Thongcharone

Front cover picture courtesy of Daniel Herron photographer to the stars www.danielherronphotography.com

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FEATURES

Meet the first female Ambassador of Canada to Thailand H.E. Donica Pottie An inspiration for women: as an international diplomat, a wife and a mother

by Tassapon Sutthidetkul

What brought you to Thailand and what is it like moving here?

I wanted this posting and I put it down as my first choice. I was very excited. I like relocating - it starts a new chapter of my life and in a very dramatic way. You lived and worked in one country, packed your belongings and moved to another. I have enjoyed it every time. This time is no different.

How long have you been since you arrived in Thailand?

It has been 8 months.

How do you find being away from your family?

This is the first time that I have moved away from my daughter, so it has been a little tougher. When my daughter was born, my husband was

with me. We have known each other for more than 30 years and have been married for almost 29 years. We were friends as well as spouses and we are supportive of each other’s goals and careers; that was our basic starting point.

We lived apart when he was working in India and my daughter and I moved back to Canada for her school for a year. Then last year, he was working as Deputy Head of Mission in Afghanistan and I was with my daughter. It was hard to be without him but we have done it before. We talked on the phone, Facetime and wrote emails. It was not ideal, but it was OK.

I have to say it has been harder for me being apart from my daughter than being without my husband.

She is finishing high school this

year. As she is young, she prefers instant messaging. She is going to university next year. In a way, my move to Thailand stops that stage of motherhood a year earlier. Once she goes to university, our relationship will change again and I think she is unlikely to live with us, except visiting in the summers. Given I left a year in advance, it has been a little harder.

How often do you see them?

(Since the move) My husband and daughter have visited Thailand twice and I visited them once so I see them every couple of months. It is not the same as all of us getting together under one roof. And when they visited for a couple of weeks, it was great but when they left, the house felt lonelier; having them here made it much more lively.

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What made you want to become an Ambassador?

I came from a small town in Canada as an educated middle class.

I did not have anyone in my family who was a diplomat but when I was young I was interested in the news, current affairs and what was going on in the world. I like reading about other places, different cultures and my family have grown used to me being a traveller.

I believe in the power of diplomacy. I don’t know since when I started believing in it. There are few things in life that are a greater honour than to represent your country. There is something special about the life of public service and trying to help bring governments and the people together.

One of the things I have enjoyed most since joining as an ambassador is that I have opportunities to contribute to an overall effort; to change how the international community views something and to improve people’s lives. Normative development involves thousands of people working towards the same goals, to bring the community on board. So any individual roles, like my own (even though it is a tiny part), is a part of something much bigger.

Years ago I worked in the field of conflict resolution; making it unacceptable for diamonds to be purchased as they involved a group of people being forced into slavery or even killed. Part of the big international effort was to tackle this area of human rights for a world free from fear for a particular community.

What is your agenda as a female ambassador to Thailand?

One of the areas that the embassy here has been working on is human rights. This means equality between women and men, not equality for women but between the sexes. When the new prime minister of Canada, Justin Trudeau, stood up and said “I am a proud feminist…”, I think this helps to challenge the notion of ‘feminist’ and its label; of certain

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“One of the areas that the embassy here has been working on is human rights. This means equality between women and men.” kinds of women and any negative stereotypes. It is not an issue of women trying to get where men are but also an issue for men to be who they want to be.

My husband loves being an active parent. If you are a man and feel like you cannot do that because you are

a man, I feel it is sad. If you are a woman and want to be a police officer and you cannot do that because you are a woman, it is sad. This different way of looking at things helps to open doors for men to be involved in raising kids without having to feel embarrassed about wanting to spend

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If I think I am doing as much as I can to balance my work, and I know I am not a lazy person, then I have to accept that I am doing my best. It is really not easy when women are (overly) critical of themselves and are self demanding.

more time with them. Most of us are very self conscious in a way, and a bit frightened to be who we really are.

The defined gender roles can be limiting for both men and women.

For groups of people from marginalised communities or people who want do something outside their gender norm, it is even harder. And I think there is a lot of work that can be done in that space.

In most countries, including Thailand and Canada, there is a real divide between people in the rural and urban areas for the accessibility to services. We strive to work very hard to improve their situation. We, as the majority of the population, have a long way to go to better respect and support these communities. Human rights is an ongoing area of work for individuals, groups and communities.

they might not be able to leave work, even if they wanted to.

It comes with its own set of pressures where you feel like you are not doing either things as well as you would like to. For me, it has been important for her to know that if she is sick or has a really bad day, it does not matter what I am doing at work, I come and get her and take care of her. It has to be clear to her that the job comes second. And because she has known all her life that there are things she can count on me for, she is understanding of the fact that sometimes I am working late or working at the weekend.

Other than human rights, what are other areas are you working on to build and strengthen diplomatic relationships between Canada and Thailand?

Our embassy assists in partnerships between Thai and Canadian companies and helps to create joint ventures and with the of selling commodities, both in Canada and Thailand. We support them and their contacts and help them to begin a dialogue.

We work closely with our Thai counterparts in areas related to policing, borders and management.

They have been exceptional partners to us. For both sides, it has been a successful ongoing relationship and cooperation.

We are also supportive of the work the other embassies are doing. Finland and Sweden, for example, recently commemorated their press freedom law, which is over 200 years old. This is the oldest in the world and we helped to promote it on social media.

How do you manage your dual roles of motherhood and diplomacy?

When I was posted to Jordan, I took 4 months off when she was born; the legal minimum for a Canadian woman. My husband took the rest of the time with her. I stayed home with her full time after we moved back to Canada for a year and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I think parents have to adapt their parenting style to their child. I might have been fortunate because there are women working in jobs where

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FEATURES

Meet the Ambassador of Ireland H.E. Brendan Rogers A compassionate man who is dedicated to his community

by Tassapon Sutthidetkul

Tell us about your experience, when you first arrived here in Thailand.

I arrived three years ago with a laptop, suitcase and an agenda. I lived in a hotel for a few months, built a network, got to know my colleagues and the Irish as well as the Thai communities.

What is it like in your new office at the Irish embassy?

The embassy was designed and built shortly after I arrived. I moved in September 2015 and it was officially opened in February last year. We are up and running and it has gone from zero to hundred very quickly.

It is a busy place. My colleagues and I work together

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as a team and they are very hardworking. We have been attending key meetings with different business groups, continuing to build up our contacts and a network. The work as an Ambassador here is very interesting and varied. I could be at a palace or at another embassy one day; down at the government house the next; visiting an Irish citizen at a hospital who has been in an accident; or at the immigration to help him or her with visa.

I have to say Thais are very generous. We have a saying in Irish, Céad Míle Fáilte which means a hundred thousand welcomes. I see the Irish have been made to feel very welcome here, given a very kind and wonderful host.

What is your agenda as Irish Ambassador to Thailand?

We have a threefold policy - we look after our people, our prosperity and our values.

For the Irish community in Thailand, we provide services with citizenship, passport and visas, and support anyone who has got into any difficulty like illness, bereavement, etc.

We had a sad case at Christmas of a young Irish person who passed away because of natural causes whilst the family was back in Ireland. My role as the representative of Ireland was to be there in the best ways that I could; to understand the trauma for the family and assist in any emotional issues. I am well trained for that and that is what we do. We spent time managing that on Christmas day because it is our job to look after our people.

Then our prosperity. It is the way we can increase trade with Thailand in terms of investment, also to build economic bridges. If we are prosperous, Thailand will be prosperous as well as it is an engagement of both countries.

Our values are what we stand for as Irish, also internationally. We have been independent since 1921 - 1922, and a member of the UN since the 1950s.

We have been playing active roles on humanitarian work, the status of women, and so on. Those are the values we stand for and that is who we are. We promote them here at every level of society.

We have small project where we work with communities which are poor in Bangkok, Phuket, Chiang Rai and Nhong Kai. We are working with marginalised and missionary groups. They are relatively small but they are important to us.

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How are you promoting Ireland in Thailand?

Ireland is a small country of 5 million people and there is not a huge amount of knowledge about us in Thailand. Perhaps, our musicians and footballers are familiar names to Thais and tourists who came to visit here. Our job is to put Ireland on the map. We had 60,000 Irish here in 2014-2015. This has increased to a figure of 80,000.

We have an Irish Women’s Group which is affiliated to the Irish Thai Chamber of Commerce. Some of the women are in business and NGOs whilst some are working at home. It is a great opportunity for people to connect. We also have an organisation called Gaelic Athletic Association (or GAA). It is a very active group here. There are women football and hurling teams, which recently went to Vietnam and won.

There is going to be a major tournament in November this year - the Asian Gaelic Games.

We have thousands of players from all over Asia. Not just Irish, but Thai, American and British etc. It is a very integrated team. The women’s teams have been particularly strong this year. They have been winning competitions every year for the past few years in Shanghai and Kuala Lumpur.

“We have a threefold policy - we look after our people, our prosperity and our values.”

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We have a rich history of literature and music. River Dance is a major dance group; bringing Irish music and the very best Irish dance to our global audience. They travel all over the world. In Thailand, there is not a great knowledge of Irish music and culture yet but we are promoting them. They are an important part of our history; we are very proud of them.

I went to see Khon, a traditional Thai way of dancing with beautiful and delicate costumes which was a spectacle.

It was really intriguing to me as it was an ancient form of art.

I think music is a form of an emotional connection - it brings people together. So does culture. It is a language which communicates with us and builds emotional bridges. The same with all form of arts.

We have a new programme in creative arts invested by our government this year called, Creative Ireland. Aside from that, we are active in films. We had one recently in Thailand called Sing Street and people found it to be fantastic even though some of them might not know it was Irish. We hope to organise a small Irish film festival this year in September or October.

I think to promote Ireland, art really helps people to connect to different forms - music, literature, dance and film.

It is the language of the soul.

What is your favourite Thai dish since you have been living in Thailand?

My favourite dish is Somtum - I like arharn ped mak (very spicy food). I also like Tomyum Goong, Tomyum Gaai and Phad Krapao. I will say ‘less sugar.’ The food is

wonderful and I love going to different parts of the country to try out different food - Isaan, Southern and Northern. I think it’s some of the best food in the world. What I like about Somtum is it is light. Sometimes, I have many dinners to attend and I have to manage my weight. That is a problem here, but I can always go for light food like the Thai cuisine.

The way Thai people eat, I notice, they eat often but small amounts at a time. I think in Thailand you have the right

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balance and it is well known for great food all over the world. Any global city you go to, there is a Thai restaurant.

What Irish food would you recommend?

I would say the Irish stew - it is well known, made from lamb, potatoes and other vegetables, and is very nutritious. For 30 years or so, Ireland has revolutionised its food quality and has promoted it internationally. A quarter of our exports are food: meat, seafood and cheese.

How many languages do you speak?

Other than English and Irish, I studied French and Latin in school and am currently studying Thai. I lived in Africa before for 11 years so I speak a few African phrases from the different parts. I would not say I am one of those who have a wonderful ability for languages but I think learning the language of the countries that you have been is a way of acknowledging the fact that you are living there and honour the people by speaking their native tongue.

What do you enjoy reading in your free time?

I read less now compared to many years ago; getting very busy here. Also with social media, it affects the way we do things; I use Twitter and Facebook. For books, I initially loved the classics - Thomas Hardy, Shakespeare and John Fowles. Recently, I have been reading biographies of footballers, Michael Jackson, American presidents, and The History of Thailand by Chris Baker and his wife. When I am on a plane I would take a book and enjoy a good read. I enjoy reading poetry, too. I read economics from time to time for what is happening globally.

Apart from getting a good read, I think modern television drama has improved enormously in recent years. I like looking at political dramas and I am watching something very interesting at the moment, a Swedish programme called 30 Degrees in February. It is about the life of a Swedish expat living in Phuket. It is about learning the experiences of other people and how they reflect on us. Learning about other people, we contextualise ourselves in some respect. To find out about people who have achieved a huge amount in their lives from different ends of the spectrum; from politicians to musicians.

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TRAVEL

As the white Buddha watches over Nha Trang …

by Neil Brook

It's easy to get blasé. Temples and shrines are juxtapositioned next to high rise towers and ancient ruins mingle with cities throughout Asia. Ayutthaya north of Bangkok, the old Siamese capital, with its three Chedis reaching for the sky protecting the ashes of the Kings beneath, stands out for me when visited at sunset and Wat Po (the temple of the reclining Buddha) in Bangkok is a peaceful haven in a hectic city as the colourful tiles take on a new life at night when the grounds are almost deserted. Finding solitude in hallowed grounds without the usual jostling for position amongst a sea of selfie sticks is a gift and it's easy to forget the reason beautifully ornate structures were constructed and how crumbling towers once protected cities.

In Nha Trang on the southern coast of Vietnam the big white Buddha stands surveying the city at Long Son Pagoda. I'd put it on the back shelf as Nha Trang is a beach town where life revolves around the sea. However I decided to pay a visit.

Walking in under the large carved stone archway the entrance is guarded by a gleaming yellow, green and blue dragon surrounded by ornate urns. It's quiet and I soon realise that the main

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buildings and other areas are closed between 11:30am and 1pm. I didn't do the research as this was a spur of the moment, hop in a cab visit. If I had I would have waited. I take note for future excursions. Early morning visitors have left and the afternoon crowds have yet to arrive.

I decide to walk up the side alley and am stopped by a resident monk.

It's midday and he motions to remove my hat as the sun beats down. There's

a breeze which helps. He puts his finger to his lips and leads as I follow up the steps winding past the main temple.

We reach the top where tombstones are scattered without any distinguishable plan like mini temples, shrines protecting those beneath.

Names and parting words are etched into the stone. He lights three incense sticks and hands them to me. There are three urns. I'm guided to each.

Bowing three times I place one stick of incense into each one before my guide bestows a blessing on me. I close my eyes and find myself silently praying.

Flowers hang from the walls, scattered porcelain and tiny horses lay at the base of a tree. Rows and rows of more moderate and simple nameplates curve around what forms the base of the summit supporting the Buddha above.

I place my offering on the blue and white plate under a rock to stop it blowing away. There has been a previous visitor evidenced by the notes left before me. Now the two of us are the only ones here.

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“In Nha Trang on the southern coast of Vietnam the big white Buddha stands surveying the city at Long Son Pagoda. �

My impromptu guide has lived in the monastery encircling the pagoda for 40 years. He is 65. These are humble quarters. I'm reminded this refuge cocooned from the city has a purpose and is not merely a photo stop in the hectic schedules of passing tourists.

It's a home, a place of study, of worship and of remembrance and

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while the doors have been opened the residents and those laid to rest are deserving of consideration and respect. By welcoming guests there is hope traditions can continue with the help of donations. There's a school next door. The laughter rings out until it's quiet as lunch finishes and class begins. Usually in the city the sound

of horns and traffic is constant. Here I hear only the birds.

I walk back down and start climbing the steps on the other side. A white reclining Buddha stretches out half way up the steps that take you to the giant one sitting at the top. It covers the entire width of the hill but you can only enter the foreground from this side

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which is closed until one. There is an image of Buddha for people born on each day of the week and being born on a Tuesday this is mine and instantly connects me to this sacred spot. It's an easy climb and as I continue up the city drops away below and surrounds me. On the the way down the gates to the Buddha lying propped up on one arm will be open.

At the top resting peacefully with eyes closed and hands clasped the gleaming white Buddha rises twenty four metres into the sky and sits on a pedestal with a large urn in the foreground. It is quite stunning. Circling the huge circumference leads to more name plates, row upon row, each carved with personal tributes and fresh flowers provide evidence of a loved one’s recent visit.

Returning to the bottom the doors to the main temple have been opened to reveal the inner sanctum where gold images and hanging gold and red lanterns dangle from the ceiling, glowing above the stage set with offerings. Golden warriors behind

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lattice gates guard the walkways and nearby amongst flowing yellow

curtains a young monk pays his respect. A basket of cloth next to shoes respectfully removed invites visitors to cover their legs before entering.

As the tour buses arrive I'm on the way out. Having intended a quick photo stop, sitting in contemplation discussing life with a monk in a smattering of English and devouring one of the best noodle soups I've tasted, I’ve stayed for three hours.

It's a reminder that all temples are different, all have their own stories and the monks who live a most humble life are knowledgeable and interesting companions.

As I arrived at Long Son Pagoda, I thought about asking my taxi to wait.

I'm glad I didn't.

Neil Brook will try anything once and agrees with the Bizarre Foods motto, if it looks good, eat it! He has been privileged to call many places home and his travels have now landed him in the beach side city of Nha Trang in Vietnam. A regular contributor to the Aussie travel site The Big Bus Tour and Travel Guide, he contiues his journeys around the globe and enjoys sharing his experiences, endeavouring to create a fresh perspective as he does so. @treadingtheglobe I www.treadingtheglobe.com

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TRAVEL

Malaysian inspirations

by Margaret Elizabeth Johnston ND

Travelling in South East Asia is always an adventure, there are so many places to choose from. Although I loved living in Phuket and Laos, and plan to come back to Thailand at some point, I am curious to know what some of the surrounding countries offer. With my interests in medicinal plants, holistic health and education, art and illustration, I can always find a focus or purpose for my travels which I find makes them all the more inspirational and enriching.

Some of you Expat Life readers may recognise my name or picture from other issues, I usually write a Thai focused medicinal plant article accompanied with a painting. With “Travel” being the June 2017 theme for Expat Life, I am pleased to write a bit about my latest journey and adventure, leaving Luang Prabang, Laos, and heading south to Malaysia.

The decision to go to Malaysia was rather sudden. I was done with my projects in Luang Prabang and was thinking to go to Nepal but as I started to take a look at the weather, Kuala Lumpur was looking rather good, being March 2017.

Hot weather appeals to me and I had recently decided to make a two year journey surrounding Thailand to get to know the neighbours so why not head south to good weather and continue following the sun! Once I got to Malaysia I realised that this is a perfect fit for me with the rainforests, indigenous tribes that still live close to their ways and the flora of the land with a wealth of medicinal plant knowledge, not to mention my love of the ocean. I could easily entertain myself here for a few months so when I found a nice place in KL to stay in, I spent a month getting to know the city, spent the month of April island hopping on Langkawi, Penang and Tioman and by the time you are reading this I will be in Malaysia Borneo, totalling about 4-5 months in Malaysia. I have found some wonderful gems along the way so far and in sharing them with you perhaps something I mention will be jotted down in your “to-do” list of places to see and things to do.

Being drawn to the arts, in KL I came across a little advertised art museum/gallery in the Petronas Towers called Galeri Petronas. The gallery showcases local and foreign artists that support development of a holistic Malaysian society. Opinions and views relating to humanity are presented using art as a universal language. They have a number of free lectures, workshops and exhibitions throughout each month with a calendar so one can sign up for these online before you go. I was fortunate enough to see a hands-on weaving and embroidery workshop and meet some of the indigenous people without even getting my feet

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Batik gallery and workshop, KL Craft Complex

wet. On a larger scale, I came across a traditional batik art gallery and workshop in the Kuala Lumpur Craft Complex.

The colours that assault you are outstanding, the pieces are truly gorgeous and hung from bamboo rods. You can spend an hour or a day learning how to do wax drawing on cloth, the dye process and how to iron out the wax when dry.

Malaysia is known for their batik styles and here is a chance to learn this in that very country. Right down the road from the KL Craft Complex is the National Textile Museum. One can see all the different creations of batik, weavings and even jewellery from past times to present, all things Malaysian. The last place I will mention is the Perdana Botanical Gardens in KL. The landscaping is an art form in itself with a bit of whimsy “Alice in Wonderland” touches combined with very Zen like Asian influences. It has a small but well done shop where I saw some of the most beautiful batik-on-silk with all the large tropical flowers, fish and spices too.

I do find that having a focus or purpose to your travels can help inspire and guide you to see things of interest to your lifestyle. Sure, I enjoy smoothies or cocktails by the pool

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Tropical Spice Garden, Penang

any day however most of us can do this at home. When away, making the effort to get to know the country and its culture is very rewarding. Even if your hobby is reading books you may want to visit the town/city centre library or go to a book fair.

Maybe your hobby is trying new foods, Malaysia is a prime place for that, it is like Thai and Indian all rolled into one with various spice and herb differences. Perhaps exercise is your thing, then renting a bicycle to explore, going to a local dance/yoga/tai-chi class or engage on a local hike would inspire you. These are all opportunities to get out of the hotel and meet the local people, other expats, and try something new, different, and experience pushing the walls out a little bit more in your life. Since you are already interested in these things then it makes it all the easier to do and adds value to your trip.

After KL I decided to head to Langkawi, Penang and finally Tioman, all islands off Peninsular Malaysia. I am not normally a tour person but I can truly recommend the Mangrove Tour. It is 80RM, about 624B, $18. It is 6 hours, includes pick-up/drop-off/lunch and you see fish farms, the special mangrove monkeys that swim, get taken into the depths of the mangrove forests, see some poisonous snakes

KL Botanic Gardens, whimsy "Alice-in-Wonderland/ Zen-like landscapes"

hanging from nearby trees, bat caves and loads of the Langkawi eagles as the guide threw food into the air ‌ we were lucky and had a pod of dolphins swim next to our boat at the end! In Penang there is much street art in George Town and an abundance of gardens to see. There is the Penang Botanic Gardens, the Tropical Fruit Farm and the Tropical Spice Garden. Hiking up to Penang Hill is also a highlight as is the funicular railway that takes you up and down. As I write this, I am in the centre of George Town, Penang, and have yet to know of my Tioman experience but I am sure there will be some stories to tell. By the time I leave Peninsular Malaysia for Malaysia-Borneo, I hope to have a fairly well rounded knowledge of beautiful Malaysia and its people, arts, cultural mix and architecture. Long after my trip I will remember these special outings more so than that drink around the pool or another fancy dinner somewhere, these are memories for a lifetime. Happy planning expats!

Biking around George Town, Penang

Fish Farms, Langkawi

Margaret Elizabeth Johnston has been busy getting to know other parts of South East Asia that surround Thailand. As a traveller, rather than a tourist, she enjoys a minimum of 3 months in each country as she explores. Learning about the local medicinal plants and art forms for her own interest and to share with others, guides her to seek out the uniqueness in each country that inspire, uplift and lead one to grow and expand their own philosophy of life. Margaret has a website that has an art blog, a health blog and of course her colourful paintings of medicinal plants she has found along the way. You can follow her at: www.mejcrerations.com EXPAT LIFE IN THAILAND

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PROPERTY

1D Property

Bangkok’s boutique expat real estate agency Wandee (Lekky) Iamyoung, owner of expat-focused home search agency 1D Property, certainly knows what relocating feels like. She left Thailand for Australia when she was just 19, only returning with her husband and daughter three years ago.

“After living so long in Australia I experienced reverse culture shock. When we moved to Bangkok I saw my country with fresh eyes. Just trying to find a home was a real trial, mostly because the real estate industry is unregulated and professional standards were not what I was used to in Sydney.

I started 1D Property because I knew I could do better.”

As both an Aussie expat and a Thai mother, with a daughter at Bangkok Patana international school, Lekky easily

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transcends both worlds, which helps to put new expat families at ease. And putting inbound families at ease is the focus of her business. “I’ve been through the whole move thing myself - a new city, finding a home, the kids, husband, schools - I really can relate!”

That accounts for why almost all of 1D Property’s leads come through expat mothers, especially the international school networks. “We focus on families, and most of our leads come to us through word of mouth and referrals. 1D Property will always be a niche agency - your secret agent in Bangkok!” she giggles.

It’s Lekky’s warm, engaging personality and sheer energy that wins over her loyal clients - her small team gets exceptional reviews. Since she started the company in 2015, 1D Property’ soul aim has been to provide expat families with a highly personalised, bespoke and ethical service. “I truly believe we work harder for our clients than any other agency I know of.”

It’s an ‘old world’ business model that some say is out of place in the digital age where the Internet is eroding brokerbased or ‘middle man’ industries. In Bangkok, there are many online forums and specialist property websites marketing thousands of listings for rent. Few of them, says Lekky, have a personal face and quite often there is no agent at all, with the prospective renter dealing directly with the landlord.

1D Property has deliberately chosen a different route.

“For many people the Internet is fine, especially for younger singles who are happy to browse the many hundreds of stock standard condos readily available online. But that’s not who we are, or what 1D Property clients want. Where is the service? Expat families need a much higher level of personal engagement, and I spend many hours with them as part of my normal day. Sadly, professional standards are lacking in the property industry, which is a risk for new inbound families. My clients need someone they can trust, which requires a high degree of personal attention you’re unlikely to find through a search engine!”

Lekky insists 1D Property will never be the biggest agency because of the time and energy her small team

spends looking for their clients’ perfect home, and then maintaining that same level of service right throughout the rental period. “I manage only a handful of clients at a time, but they’re the best clients because we strive to give them the best and friendliest service. Some of them have lived in Bangkok for many years but choose us because they’re aware of the pitfalls in the industry. 1D Property has been in business for about two years but our name is already doing the rounds, and this makes me enormously proud. We are definitely doing something right, as long as I keep focusing mostly on families and professional couples.”

Lekky developed many of her relationships at Bangkok Patana school; she is often seen chatting with mums over a coffee after dropping off their kids. Her husband is a Director at AustCham, which has also proved to be a great network.

“The parents have all gone through the same worries and we know how to settle in a foreign environment,” she says. “They often have friends contacting them for advice and, of course, I can usually help. Personal referrals make the best clients - it’s a win-win. I’m starting to get more referrals from other international school networks, especially NIST because I know the Sukhumvit area well.”

So what does it take to be an ‘expat special agent’?

“Right now I’m speaking to about six families before they have even arrived in Bangkok. We have very friendly interactions; I like to quickly develop a close relationship so that I can understand their specific needs. By the time they arrive I have already honed the market down to 3-4 viewings that I’m confident they will like - I’m not interested in wasting their time which is a common complaint in the industry here! There is enough stress involved in relocating so I like clients to feel relaxed and not intimidated by the move. The FIRST thing I do is meet them in person. I spend ages getting to know them, which is the best part of my job. Most clients end up as close friends!”

Many of Lekky’s clients initially started their search through online forums but soon realised the gap in cultures required 1D Property’s specialist expertise. She explains: “A large part of success is building relationships with Thai landlords.

Owners here have a jaded view of agents generally but I really do think they enjoy dealing with me. They know I get great tenants and I have pride in my service. Honestly, half of the job is choosing the right landlord! The good ones appreciate how hard we work - even down to arranging for a plumber or whatever else needs to be done long after the lease is signed.

I have a problem-solving mentality which I developed living abroad from a young age. It’s quite rare in Thailand where most people are brought up being told what to do.”

1D Property Co., Ltd is a registered company in Thailand, focused on providing Bangkok expat families with a highly personal, professional and ethical home search service. Lekky can be reached at: P: +66 8 6413 0974 | E: 1dproperty@1dproperty.com | W: 1dproperty.com Line: @1dproperty | Facebook: 1dpropertybangkok EXPAT LIFE IN THAILAND

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TRAVEL

Discovering Penang

by Zydrune Juceviciute

Penang is 293 km² island located on the North West coast of West Malaysia and less than 2 hours away from Bangkok by plane.

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www.expatlifeinthailand.com

It was our first trip outside Thailand and perhaps the most fascinating one. Funky street art, homemade Indian food and astonishing Chinese temples - a beautiful blend of different cultures to experience in one place.

George Town

My significant other and I stayed at one of the guesthouses ran by Chinese family in George Town, the heart of the island. The town was founded by the British in 1786 and is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Our guesthouse was situated just a corner away from Little India so we were frequent visitors there. I enjoy Indian cuisine just as much as my partner does. We were at the right place to immerse ourselves in a myriad of tastes. The food quality in the local Indian restaurants was fantastic despite the messiness. The variety of choices was overwhelming: mutton brain curry, biryani, samosa, mint naan. We quickly learnt all favourite dish names as it became our food source for the entire stay.

If you ever visit Penang, don’t forget to try out hot or with ice Teh Susu. It’s a delicious tea beverage with sweetened creamer, similar to Hong Kong tea.

Street art vibes

One of the most popular activities in Penang is to explore the playful wall murals. Every tourist map has illustrated locations of famous murals to see. While deepening in to the street art history, I’ve found out that the reason why street art became such a big deal in Penang is because of a Lithuanian born artist and his contribution. It was a lovely surprise myself being of the same origin.

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We scrolled from street to street, taking funny photos and “hunting” for more wall paintings. It was a good workout.

Every corner of George Town had something worth seeing. I couldn’t miss visiting few eye catchy vintage souvenir shops and cafes.

Have you ever eaten icy Dragon Ball? They have it in Penang! There is a tiny café nearby Khoo Kongsi clan house temple selling it.

Mixture of ethnicities The population in Penang is highly diverse in ethnicity. Beside native Malays, around 42% of the residents are Chinese descendants and around 10% Indian. Surprisingly, each community has not only culturally integrated very well into the Malay society but has also maintained their own traditions.

Many of them still speak their native languages and celebrate unique festivals.

To me, Penang looked like a massive Chinatown. Almost every commercial and household building had its name written in Chinese. The area was filled with red lanterns and other colourful oriental decorations.

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TRAVEL

Little India occupies only a small part of George Town, however it brought us right in to the middle of the action.

Corner stores, filled with jewellery, household and religious products. Loud music playing outside the Bollywood movies shop. It was all so chaotic and interesting to encounter at the same time.

On the way to Kek Lok Si

The second attraction on our ‘visit in Penang’ list was astonishing Kek Lok Si temple complex. Kek Lok Si is said to be the largest Chinese temple in Malaysia, built on the hill with an impressive view of faraway George Town and the green hills.

The morning we set out to visit it, it was raining. Never ending rain made us stay at the local street restaurant for a few hours. Nevertheless, nothing could destroy our happy moods. Whilst waiting, we decided to explore the nearby food stalls and that’s where I discovered Laksa - spicy noodle soup.

No matter how disturbing the presentation of my ordered fish Laksa looked, the taste was simply delicious. The soup wasn’t spicy at all, especially if you’ve already got used to eating spicy Thai food. And of course, we couldn’t stay away from enjoying a cup of sweet Teh Susu during our enforced delay.

It was worth the long wait to visit the temple. Right after the rain, the hills became misty and the air was refreshed.

The complex was almost crowd free and we had a peaceful afternoon walking around. We spent a few hours exploring the pagoda, prayer halls, feeding pond turtles and learning about Buddhism. Kek Lok Si temple provides free distribution of Buddhism teaching materials such as books and CDs in Chinese and English languages. It was a perfect opportunity

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to get to know Buddhism better and find new ways how to improve myself.

The fifth day was our last day in Penang and time to fly back to Bangkok. It was hard to leave, harder than ever before. We were filled with joy and new experiences that we didn’t want to end. This trip reminded me how amazing is to travel and discover every corner of the world.

I’m glad we discovered Penang.

TASTE THE MOST SENSUOUS RIVER VIEWS WITH A MINI BREAK SPECIAL. That’s what matters to me.

Stay for two or more nights to get extra perks and double the fun at the riverside!

Treat yourself to double night delight with fantastic river views. Book two or more nights to get added benefits including a complimentary room upgrade. From a filling daily breakfast to signature cocktails for two, we make it easy to stay. Enjoy more time by the pool with late check out and tuck into an extra 20% off your dining for double the fun!

For more information, please call 0 2431 9100.

Scan us to book and learn more:

257 Charoennakorn Road, Thonburi, Bangkok 10600, Thailand T 0 2431 9100 E riverside.bangkok@avanihotels.com avanihotels.com

REVIEWS

Royal Cliff

An escape from reality to a tropical paradise The Royal Cliff group of hotels in the south of Pattaya is under a 2 hour drive from Suvarnabhumi international airport. Safe from the adult themed Las Vegas style town centre, this is a hotel complex with everything you need for your stay in paradise.

The Royal Cliff is not a chain of hotels, so it is one of a kind. Or rather, four of a kind. The resort comprises four 5 star hotels, across 64 acres of lush gardens, each building with its own ambiance and character. It’s a tropical getaway overlooking the turquoise ocean from the cliff tops with its very own private beach.

I was shown around the complex

by Maria who has worked at the hotel for more than three years. With the enthusiasm she imbues, you can tell this is a fun place to work.

The rooms

A stay in one of the standard rooms guarantees plenty of space with fantastic views of the ocean. But if you’re looking for opulence and absolute luxury, make sure you splash out on one of the Honeymoon Deluxe or Theme Suites. They range in design, from cool, modern chic to traditional Thai style. Without doubt, these elegant suites are larger than any apartment in Bangkok. They exude a tropical ambience with offering separate lounge and office areas, and a beachfront balcony that runs along the length of

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the suite. For families, the Family Suite in Royal Cliff Beach Terrace and the 2-bedroom Theme Suite in Royal Cliff Beach Hotel are well laid out and very comfortable.

An impressive range of facilities

The Royal Cliff Hotels Group has seven swimming pools throughout its expansive property. On the beachside edge of the complex is the popular infinity pool. As you lower yourself slowly into the blue waters, the water rises up to merge

with turquoise seas and skies. Lazy holidaymakers idle the hours away in a dreamy state while sipping on cocktails.

For the fitness buffs, the sports facilities at the Fitz Club - Racquets, Health & Fitness are equally impressive, featuring two health spas, a fitness centre with aerobic and weights

arena are designed to stimulate creativity and imagination.

equipment to rival any private gym, a yoga/stretch room with classes, seven tennis courts and two squash courts. Onsite coaches and trainers are available for hire to put you through your paces.

The hotel provides a free WiFi service throughout the complex which was ample for leisure surfing and even a pre buffered Netflix session.

The Verge - Games, Pool, Karaoke

This room is a place for teens and grownup kids to while away the hours playing physical and virtual games.

They have it all: an Xbox 360, Kinect, Playstation 4 and Nintendo Wii. The pool table is brand new and well kept.

Meanwhile, the impressive karaoke lounge is private enough to protect everyone on the outside from hearing the most enthusiastic of wailers.

Breezeo - Be Yourself Dining

Lastly, the Royal Cliff's popular restaurant set above the resort’s private beach, overlooking the ocean and enjoying the coastal breeze. Breezeo

offers international tapas selections, a kids’ menu, a range of beachside BBQ packages and award winning cocktails.

We found that the kids’ menu was very thoughtfully put together. It comes in various animal-themed designs with wordsearch activities and puzzles that will distract them from their ipads.

For the kids: Funtasea - Kids World

Billed as an edutainment centre, the 200 sqm indoor play area features an incredible maze, slides, soft toys and ball pit for kids to get lost in. The front door can only be opened by one of the four staff on duty, meaning you can venture off for the day knowing your little ones are in a safe place.

Creative arts and crafts classes are held in the adjoining, well equipped kitchen, including cooking, origami, balloon modelling, pottery and storytelling. Activities in this children

Exhibitions and grand ceremonies

The three ballrooms, 53 meeting rooms, convention/exhibition centre provide world class facilities for international business. However, there’s nothing in the world like an Indian wedding. The extravagant, colourful ceremonies can last for up to a week. Indian weddings are known for their grandeur and lavish pomp and ceremony. Thailand and the Royal Cliff Hotels offer an idyllic setting that ensures your romantic occasion will last a lifetime.

FEATURES

Classic cars in Pattaya

by Jess Thakkar

The weekend of March 25/26th 2017 saw Pattaya play host to its' first Classic Car Show. In fact it was the first of its kind held in Thailand.

With over one hundred cars from all over Thailand in attendance, many lovingly restored and some amazingly in their original form. The oldest being an Opel dating back from 1909. funds for the charity, along with prizes given to the owners of the cars, the best of five categories determined by the age and year of production. From vintage to modern and special classics.

The main sponsor of the event was The Riviera Group run by Winston and Sukanya Gale. Winners of the Thailand property awards, for their projects in Jomtien and Wongamat for two years running, 2015 and 2016.

The cars would only be displayed on the Saturday and there was a parade through the town and along Pattaya Beach Road, scheduled for Sunday morning. Which was expected to attract even more of a crowd.

The cars were set around a grassy lawn over looking Pratumnak beach and the sea beyond, there couldn't have been a more perfect setting. Hosting the event was the Asia Pattaya Hotel, boasting 2,500sqm of lawn. The organisers certainly found the very best venue for the cars to be displayed.

All of the cars were placed in such a way that visitors could walk all the way around them. Giving the most charged petrolhead and vintage car enthusiast much to “coo" and “ahh" over!

I was told by the organiser and president of "Classic Car Friends Pattaya", Joe Klemm, that 1,200 people visited the show that afternoon. All between the hours of 12 noon and 6pm. He deemed it a huge success, with 200 people attending the evening reception. All of which went along to help the charitable cause associated with the event, which was, The Human Hand Network Foundation Thailand, which cares for and educates children in need, those who have been abandoned and orphaned.

Some of the children that are looked after by the foundation came along to enjoy the evening reception and treated us to traditional Thai dancing along with a more jazzy modern number, culminating in a wonderful happy song. The evening reception offered live music and an auction to raise

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www.expatlifeinthailand.com

The cars were indeed all very beautiful, if I may use that term.

I perhaps am a little of an exception for a woman, as I very much enjoyed looking at the vintage cars. I did notice that there were very few women at the show during the time I was there. I suppose this love of cars comes from my father who was a car mechanic and always had cars to work on in his spare time in our garage. My brothers have now taken up that hobby and restore old Volkswagen Golf’s.

There is something very special about a vintage car, it can evoke such memories and joy of a time that has sadly passed. My husband too was excited as he saw at the show, the very same Mercedes his father drove when he was a child in Uganda. It was a lovely moment, to be able to look and touch and smell it again.

I greatly admire the enthusiasts who have lovingly restored their cars, it takes time and dedication, not to mention money.

The owners where all present and were there to answer any questions the visitors had. I met Andy, originally from England, who now lives in Sapinburi. His car was a 1959 Healey Sprite "frog eye" ‌ affectionately named because of its headlights. It was a car I had never seen or heard of before and I can imagine the thrill of driving it, roof down, wind in my hair ‌ off to a romantic date. One can dream!

The weekend offered a chance for many here in Pattaya to experience something that must often take place in many towns and cities across Europe all throughout the year.

There are many people from all walks of life, doing what they may have done in their home countries, transferring their hobbies and dreams to Thailand. It was great to see so many committed and excited people renovating and caring for their classic cars, here in Thailand.

Next time you see a classic car show advertised, go along and support the people who have worked so hard to put it together, it will make you smile and fill you with nostalgia. You never know, it may spur you on and you may one day buy yourself an old car and restore it to its former glory.

One thing is for sure though, they don't make them like they used to!

TRAVEL

Our epic adventure in Bagan, Myanmar

by Isabel Valle

One of the many perks of being an expat in Asia is the fact that we have the most idyllic locations at the most affordable rates just around the corner. High in our list of family destinations was the ancient city of Bagan, located in the Mandalay region of Myanmar. Bagan houses the remains of over 2000 temples and pagodas, as old as the 11th century, still surviving to the present day.

This last February, taking advantage of the school holidays, we decided to visit this incredible location. We chose to fly to Mandalay, which is just a one hour flight from Bangkok.

And since Bagan is only a three and a half hours drive from Mandalay airport, we decided to travel by car, and witness the most modest and rural areas of the region.

Although the roads are basic and in poor condition, and it was dusty and a slow drive, this was definitely a highlight of our trip. We simply could not imagine what we’d witness there. It is well known that Myanmar is a country that has recently opened its doors to development, and we just didn’t expect it to be as primitive as it was.

We were surprised by the lack of infrastructure, the primitive basic straw huts where people lived, the hard labour conditions and the lack of tools or resources to make it easier to handle life. It was a truly humbling experience to witness how most people in the area lived and went about their daily lives.

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For the remainder of the trip, as this was a family adventure, I thought I’d give you an account of it through my children’s recall of the trip, their highlights and best memories from Bagan. Here are their top 7 pics from our epic adventure: 1. E xploring the temples freely, climbing on them, finding dark passages and stairs to the top of the pagodas; my children felt like Indiana Jones!

2. H iring a carthorse on one of the days to explore Bagan.

We loved the slow pace, getting to meet our driver Aung and his horse. Aung took us to very local places and told us about their way of life, it was fantastic.

3. H iring electric bikes to zoom around the whole of the Bagan area. At a faster pace than the horse and cart, we were able to drive through most of the area in one day, covering the busy markets of Nyagun U with many treasures and unusual things being sold there, over to the bustling riverbank, ending the perfect day with sunset

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drinks overlooking the stunning river views at the Bagan River View Resort.

4. Finding surprising treasures and beauty in the most isolated of places - our favourite temple was completely deserted; inside we saw exquisite statues of Buddha, paintings and the most spectacular ornaments which were 1000 years old. So allow yourself to misplace the normal map routes and venture into your own private adventure.

5. Viewing amazing sunsets from the top of the pagodas and the spectacular views of the Bagan landscape. Just ensure that you pick a temple that is safe for your children to climb, as there are no safety measures in place.

6. Visiting a lacquerware workshop.

Fine and decorative lacquerware is famously crafted and made in villages in the region, and is a laborious process which takes about 6 months to complete, and produces intricate pieces that are hard to resist.

7. Playing with the locals outside a temple with a chin lone, a small sports ball made out of rattan used in a game similar to volleyball, where players are only allowed to use their feet, knee, chest and head to touch the ball.

A very fond memory for my very sporty son, and he is enjoying learning this new skill!

For me specifically, as a parent, this was a very special trip.

One of those trips where the children get to open their eyes wide open and learn the hardships that some people still go through. My children learnt compassion and felt empathy for these incredibly warm and friendly people. They also got to appreciate how little one needs to be happy. They enjoyed the freedom of having no strict schedule.

We went where we felt like going, when we wanted, how we wanted it. It was incredibly liberating to go around dusty, old buildings, barefoot, without a care in the world.

Being exposed to such undeveloped circumstances gave us very rich conversations which moved us all. A truly humbling experience, one that we won’t forget for a very long time to come.

I find travelling with my children to be such a transforming experience. It gives us an (almost) complete break from technology, which helps us bond as a family and connect in a very special way - one of my favourite memories of this trip was riding with my son singing our own tunes out loud at sunset ‌ priceless!

In this case, with a lack of global comforts, they explored and embraced what the country had to offer, and got to get out of their comfort zone and experience things they wouldn’t have considered back home.

Travelling is a magical experience, and will expose your children to much knowledge and an enhanced perspective about the world we live in, one that simply cannot be learnt any other way. We will always have these unforgettable memories with us. Some of the best experiences of your life are created by experiences such as these.

We are so grateful to be able to experience places such as this. And a stunning place like Bagan, relying solely on tourism, needs more of us to witness its beauty.

So, have you planned your epic adventure yet?

Isabel Valle is an accredited ICF PCC Coach, Leadership Mentor and Facilitator currently based in Bangkok. Isabel has held senior positions within the hospitality industry in countries around the world, and facilitates a holistic approach to leadership, growth and success. She specialises in inspiring action and helping leaders from all walks of life bring their gifts to life to help them create professional excellence and personal fulfilment. More information available on www.isabelvalle.com.

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TRAVEL

The Strand Cruise brings Myanmar's culture and landscape to life with expert led experiences

A reinvention of the legendary style of its sister property, the luxury heritage hotel, The Strand Yangon, The Strand Cruise operates three and four night voyages between the ancient capitals of Bagan and Mandalay. The 28 cabin ship has already welcomed many luxury travellers from around the globe eager to experience the vibrant and fascinating culture of Myanmar.

In addition to its regular sailings, The Strand Cruise has recently added a series of four night themed cruises between Bagan and Mandalay where an intimate group of just 42 passengers will be joined by professional experts presenting additional activities on board and during shore excursions designed to enrich their experience of Myanmar and its culture.

Professional photographer, Lucas Gurdjian, will host the Strand’s first photography cruise on 16th October 2017. Then in November 2017 and February 2018, classical musicians from the Orchestre de Paris will present

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scores from some of history’s most famous composers.

Myanmar is a photographer’s delight, with glowing sunrises, expansive landscapes and characterful people. Lucas will share his knowledge on how to capture this once in a lifetime experience and coach passengers on different styles of photography, including landscapes, food photography and portraits; tips on framing, lighting, aperture and depth of field; as well as post production techniques.

Classical music aficionados are in for a treat as artists from the Orchestre de Paris will join The Strand Cruise on 13th November 2017 and 12th February 2018 to present a programme of scores from some of history’s most famous composers, played against a backdrop of romantic sunsets, starlit night skies and a vista of thousands of pagodas.

The musicians will perform intimate concerts throughout the cruise in different locations, such as on a private sandbank or on the ship’s sundeck.

Further themed cruises, including a culinary cruise lead by the Strand’s executive chef, Christian Martena, previously of Sensi in Bangkok, will be announced as they are confirmed.

The Strand’s four night themed cruises travel from Bagan to Mandalay are priced from USD 2,026 per person sharing a Deluxe Cabin. Rates include all excursions and activities as described in the set itinerary, three meals during full sailing days, breakfast on day of disembarkation, soft drinks and local beer, house wine during meals, port charges, airport/ hotel shuttle transportation to point of embarkation and from point of disembarkation, English speaking guides (alternative language guides can be provided on request subject to availability) and satellite Wifi.

Passengers can enhance their cruise experience with a stay pre or post cruise at The Strand Yangon. One of the most architecturally beautiful landmarks in the region, the luxury heritage hotel recently completed a restoration project that saw it ushered elegantly into the 21st century. The renovation preserved the heritage at the heart of the hotel and honoured The Strand’s part in Myanmar’s history, whilst creating a more relaxed, refined and glamorous setting for 21st century travellers and explorers.

www.thestrandcruise.com

EXPAT STORIES

Dear Tass …

by Tassapon Sutthidetkul

I was inspired by the piece that Daniel Sencier wrote: If you could write to yourself when you were younger ... posting the letter back through time, what would you say?

I would say …

Dear Tass

I know that it’s not easy being away from home at 11 years old. I know you are feeling homesick and wondering how life will be in Singapore from here. I just want you to know that I understand, I care. I love you and will always support you no matter what you choose. Mom said that if you want to come home, it is alright. It is okay to want to come back home, you are just 11. She and I are supportive of that.

Likewise, if you think you want to give living in Singapore a try, we support you, too. You can cry, you can feel sad, you can feel lonely and out of place, but we are always here to make sure you are okay no matter what happens.

You are brave. You really are. Mom is proud of you and dad, too. Even if it does not seem like dad would approve if you are to come back home instead of trying really hard to make it through in Singapore, he really wants you to be happy. If you stand for what you want, he will respect it because he loves you. He cares if you are happy or sad, you are the most precious thing in his life. You are a miracle to me. You are his girl whether you are in Singapore or in Thailand or anywhere in the world, you matter to him.

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Your friends in Thailand will be okay, too. I know that you are afraid that everything would not be the same, you think you might have lost your friends since they learnt that you are going to move school to Singapore. You think they might laugh at you for not making it in Singapore; for coming back to Thailand when you should not have left in the first place.

Your friends are your friends, they will be happy to see you back and finish primary school with them, of course.

Singaporeans are so weird, they are not the same and you feel awkward and that is normal. You feel unfamiliar living here in Singapore, the place is strange to you and it so is. It’s a strange, unfamiliar place filled with unfamiliar people. Your English tutor is weird and quirky, she seems young with her youthful character, she is nice. I know it is not easy picking up a new language in this weird, strange town. It is normal to feel this way, it really is. It is so normal.

You are not the weird one, they are. It is okay to feel shy and awkward. It is okay to feel out of place, it is even okay to feel lonely and slightly abandoned, it is all okay.

EXPAT LIFE IN THAILAND

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TRAVEL

Five spots you should visit in Halong Bay

by Cristina Quilaton

A two hour flight from hot sunny Bangkok to a cold chilly wind and raindrops in Ha Long City gives me some aches and pains because of the weather alone. Good thing, I have my best coat to keep me toasty and warm and simply dance in the rain (metaphorically) with the challenges especially when it goes on for 3 days!

Even the flu and rain can’t stop me from roaming around this charming city. I’m glad I did because I was able to see the reflection of the Ha Long mirror even if the sun didn’t kiss my skin.

So, I turned on my own human GPS to find happy places and I found these five sunny spots for you to check out when you drop in on Ha Long City.

Ha Long cruise

When I arrived in my budget hotel in the middle of the city, I asked the hotel tour desk what are the differences

between the various cruises in Ha Long Bay. As expected, the higher you pay, the higher service you get.

But of course, I’m on a tight budget so it’s ideal to consider my personal requirements and the things that I just wanted to see. So, I ended up booked the Ha Long tour that costs me around 10 USD, including the cave tour and transfers. Good deal!

Beyond everything, I was amazed how spectacular the UNESCO World Heritage Site attract humans from different countries all of the over world no matter which boat you’re on or your exploring on your own. It’s just as interesting how the distinctive zebra striped appearance of the limestone.

I attempted to pose like Rose in the movie of Titanic but these three men are taking the whole scene. Oh well.

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Four pillars are bound to welcome you once you enter the not-so-long-walk cave.

Ha Long Bay Cave

One of the highlights of the cruise is going through along the bay and visiting inside the caves with thousands of other tourists and I was in the group where we visited the Thien Cung Grotto, which is known as “Heavenly Cave”. The viewing deck over the gorge of the cave caught me off guard aside from the dramatic lights and icicle shaped formation that hangs from the ceiling of a cave but Nguom Ngao Cave in Cao Bang City, nestled in the northern most of Vietnam is still the most gorgeous cave I have visited so far.

Quang Ninh Museum and Library

Limited though my time is, I still managed to visit this simple yet elegant library and museum block, which is located in Cot 3 Area, Hong Hai Ward,

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Ha Long City. I just simply love how the Spanish architect laid out the galleries on each floor and how they organised the artefacts from the whale skeleton hanging on the ceiling down to the small pieces of newspaper clips on display. I simply fall in love with this kind of thing.

You should not miss this if you’re a history buff because you will find interesting facts about mining, especially the coal industry which Quang Ninh Province is known for. And what I like the most is I was able to see and experience how they work on site from holding the old and heavy corded telephones to pushing the cart that miners used back in the days - not to mention it was my first time! Life filled with firsts brings happiness!

Old Town Cafe

As might be expected, I was hungry and wanted to eat something different and ended up by the corner coffee shop near to the museum, which is kinda random, though. But I’m happy I did because I really missed the Vietnamese coffee taste and just simply linger for few hours before checking out and heading to the next city.

I ordered the black coffee with a layer of sweetened condensed and added a half-full hot water to cut the intensity of the strong and bitterness of the coffee (please note - this will come sweet if you do the same thing I did, what works for me, it may not work for you). Whether you like plain black coffee or not, just get what you want because you’ll be the one enjoying it at the end.

Sipping the realest coffee in town whilst enjoying the stillness of the beauty of nature

Ha Long Night Market

This city is not nearly as big as Hanoi but the Vincom Center is a newly erected shopping mall in this area. If you’re not willing to spend much money then, you’d be better off hitting the markets if you want to buy souvenirs for family and friends. Ultimately, shopping is not about malls with branded items as an old adage goes “It’s the thought that counts”.

Halong Night Market is one of the markets that you should check on your bucket list. The market is a crowd of more than a hundred stalls which sell a variety of products, such as handicrafts, handmade accessories, clothes, bags and even “au giay” on the basement. While on the second floor, you can grab some Vietnamese coffee and special delicacies not to mention that the vendors here are friendly can speak English quite well,

So happy to know that it’s open on Sunday! Peace out! BTW, the museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, except Monday and holidays.

so you should not worry how to haggle down and pose for a while since they can have a nice chat with them about this charming city. Halong Night Market opens 7 days a week, from 6 until 10pm.

Always remember this quote, “Life isn’t about waiting for the storm to pass, it’s about learning to dance in the rain.”

Not only sunshine can bring you happiness.

You can scout some goodies like handmade seashell necklaces, colourful bags, Vietnamese coffee and their traditional costume and even customised cards

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FEATURES

Mae Phim beach Rayong province is well known for its pristine beaches stretching along its 100 kilometre coastline facing due south into the Gulf of Thailand.

48kms to the east of Rayong City in Rayong Province East Thailand you will find the beautiful, peaceful, almost sleepy during the week, beach of Mae Phim. Access is easy from the Sukhumvit Road (route 3) and or along the coastal road from the sailing piers to Koh Samet.

It is roughly 170kms and less than 2 hours by car from Bangkok.

The 7km long public beach with white sand is clean and unspoilt by progress, beach hawkers and or development so you can enjoy the panoramic views uninterrupted.

Mae Phim is a resort for local people - the areas residents and has not featured on the radar of the tour

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companies as yet so is as such one of Thailand’s hidden gems.

The sea is shallow and and the gently sloping beach makes to an ideal recreation point for families. During the weekends like most beaches in Thailand the locals flock and frolic in the water but during the week you can almost have it to yourself.

You can enjoy the usual activities like cycling, swimming, kayaking or even boat trips to the oyster farms. You can go snorkelling although there is not too much to see apart from the small islands Mae Phim and Ko Khi Pla by the north cape which you share with many colourful small fish.

There is the occasional speedboat pulling inflatables along with shrieking adolescents but that helps break up the vista and gives something in the sightline.

The Casurina and broad leaf trees lining the beach road provide dense and ample cover from the hot sun. The western end of the beach - nearest to Rayong is at its quietest with just the travelling food and ice cream vendors and the gaily coloured over stacked plastic inflatable lorries.

Across the beach road there are a few shops, the inevitable 7/11 and a quality family hotel - The Grand Blu which has an oversized swimming pool, all day dining restaurant and bar.

Towards the eastern end of the beach it gets much busier with many beachside restaurants selling the locally caught seafood and Thai traditional favourites. The other side of the road has bars, restaurants, small hotels and assorted small shops.

At the far end of the beach there are some small hotels and resorts, housing estates and soon to be built condominium complex.

Mae Phim as yet to be fully discovered ‌

TRAVEL

Beyond the mountains … are not just green paddies

by Rogen Garcia

When you are asked about Thailand, most people think of stunning beaches, beautiful temples, ancient ruins and lively bars. Its tourist attractions are so popular that millions of tourists flock to Thailand every year. So many tourists that you see foreigners travelling around almost everywhere in the country.

Well, maybe except Isaan.

Isaan is mostly skipped by tourists because they thought that the place is just a “stretch of boring, green rice fields” or as the locals say, “a place of mountains and rice fields”. In fact, you might not find any foreigner wandering around there. It is like you are back in time when Thailand is still untouched by modernity and not yet discovered by the tourists.

So if you are tired of the fast paced life and the congested traffic of the cities, you might want to pay a visit this wonderful area. A breath of a fresh air and a laid back, relaxed provincial scenery are all you need to wind down your pace of life in the city.

I would like to share a list of must see places in Isaan.

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Khao Yai National Park

The name Khao Yai literally means Big Mountain and it lives up to its name. It is Thailand’s oldest and one of the largest national parks. It is also one of the most visited places by both local and foreign tourists alike. You might say that this place doesn’t belong to the “off the beaten path” list because of its popularity.

It is quite true. There was heavy traffic at the entrance when we got there. In Chao Por Khao Yai, the hillside temple for the spirit of the mountain, both tourists and the devout alike were crowding inside and around the temple to take pictures or pray. But drive for 30 minutes more and you will see the vast grasslands and the protected wildlife sauntering around. Another 20 minutes

and you will arrive at the viewpoint where you can enjoy the breathtaking views of the mountains and the jungle.

But be careful, some naughty little monkeys are always on alert to snatch your food (or belongings) whilst you’re not looking. A few more minutes

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of driving and you will arrive at the camping ground. From there, you can trek through the forest for about an hour and you will be rewarded with the beautiful waterfalls. You might even be lucky when you catch a sight of a free roaming Asian elephant. We were only able to see their marked paths, the trees they uprooted, and their footprints on the side of the mountain. To see how devastatingly strong these elephants are and are still very adept in climbing the side of the mountains made me respect these gentle and majestic animals more.

What’s great on this trip is that you’ll have the chance to commune with nature and appreciate its unspoilt beauty. Signal reception is weak up there in the mountains so that’s also a plus because you are not distracted anymore by incessant notifications and alerts. You can focus more on observing and enjoying the nature around you.

The Secret Garden is another great place in Khao Yai province that is worth checking. Most of its visitors are locals but the place is really amazing. You can find coffee shops and a restaurant

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inside. The place was designed like a private domicile of an artist, with a numbered route to several small houses and gardens, each with unique themes. But at the end of the route, you can find a room full of breathtaking and very intricate wooden sculptures.

The whole place’s theme might not be entirely Thai, but they showcase the exceptional talent of Thai people in wood carving through a display of elaborate carvings and minutely detailed wooden sculptures.

Phimai Historical Park

One of the under visited landmarks in Thailand is the Phimai Historical Park. This ancient temple that looks similarly like the Angkor Wat was built around 11th - 12th century by the former Khmer Empire. Its intricate wall designs are still intact and the royal ground is very well preserved. So if you love ancient temples but hate the crowd, this one is worth a visit. You can even take some great pictures without any people in the background.

After visiting the sacred ground, you might want to check out a spookier attraction of Phimai. Located just at the edge of the town is the largest and oldest Sai Ngam (Banyan) tree in Thailand. Adding to its eerie atmosphere, the local believes that the tree as an abode of female spirits.

Spanning an area of approximately 1,350 square metres and about

350 years old, its great roots are encroaching the side of the river. There is also a food court beside it where you can relax and enjoy Isaan style foods.

Nakhon Phanom’s Walking Street

Even though Nakhon Phanom has the best view of the Mekong River in Thailand, very few tourists come here to enjoy it. Most of them see it as just one of the stopovers to Laos. Nakhon Phanom boasts its 3km Walking Street where you can cycle around (you can rent a bicycle in the area or at a local hotel). Walking Street is lined with shady trees that make it walkable, too.

When I went there, I just strolled around so that I can appreciate more of the view. Across the river is Laos and you can see beyond the irregular outline of mountains. The overcast day made the mountains look more mystical. I ended my stroll by drinking coffee in View Khong Restaurant. It is an open air restaurant that offers a great view of the river while enjoying your food and or coffee. There are also several ferryboats by the river. Although

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TRAVEL

crossing the border by boat is not allowed anymore since the opening of the Friendship Bridge 3, these ferryboats will cruise in leisurely pace along the riverbank of Thailand then will cruise back along the riverbank of Laos, offering both views of the country. Food and drink are also served on the ferry.

Nakhon Phanom’s culture is very diverse; its culture is a mix of Vietnamese, Laos, and Thai. Their language is also a variety from these different cultures but the widely used is the Isaan language.

Ho Chi Minh sought refuge in Nakhon Phanom during the mid to late 1920s thus the Vietnamese influence in the province. His house is now a museum, displaying memorabilia and depictions of the way of life of Vietnamese in Thailand.

Even though Mukdahan is a fast growing province, its attractions are still not well known. It has the Ho Kaew Tower, 66 metre high, where you can have a 360 degree bird’s eye view of Mukdahan. Its lower floor exhibits the history and culture of its eight different ethnicities.

There is a newly constructed giant Buddha on the mountain that seems to look over the whole province that is also worth a visit.

Sakon Nakhon and its hidden charms

Unlike the four previous areas explored, very few people in Sakon Nakhon speak English. Conversing with locals might require a lot of hand

Mukdahan and the Indochina Market

Mukdahan is a common stopover of tourists to Savannakhet, Laos. It also has its own beautiful view of Mekong River but it is better known for the Indochina Market. My friend and I went to Mukdahan to check (and buy cheap but good things) the Indochina Market and we found that it also has an underground extension.

gestures and use of the translation app. It is maybe because that almost no tourists visit this province. Though it has its own share of beautiful Wats, most of its charms are shyly hidden in its mountains, making it a little inaccessible for the tourists.

Sakon Nakhon boasts its own Phu Pha Yon National Park and Phu Phan National Park. Unlike its counterpart in Khao Yai, these two parks are reclusive and underdeveloped. It is great for hikers and nature lovers. There are also several waterfalls and locals visit it only during weekends or holidays. So if

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you go there during the weekdays, you can enjoy swimming in the waterfalls alone. In order to get there, you have to leave your car or motorcycle in the headquarters and walk for several kilometres to the waterfalls.

There is also a thousand years cliff carvings, or ancient paintings, at Ban Na Phang. We got lost when we tried to go there. Instead, we found ourselves to an isolated dwelling of the monks at the top side of the mountain.

We wanted to reach the pinnacle but a monk stopped us because it’s almost dark and he said that there are wild tigers roaming in the jungle. In spite of that, we were not disappointed.

The drive up there in the mountain was a little bit dangerous but we were rewarded with the exhilarating view of the sunset.

And when you drive late in the afternoon, when all the workers in Bangkok are stuck in the middle of the busy highway, you might also find yourself stuck in the middle of a rural road, giving way to a parade of cows and buffalos going home from their whole day toiling in the paddy fields.

Contrary to what most people say, driving around the countryside is never boring. Probably you’ll chance a tourist or two wandering around and you’ll see some locals gawking at your foreign face and most of them are very friendly and more than willing to help you find your way around. But the most exciting part of this journey is to discover the real exotic and untouched beauty of Thailand.

Rogen Garcia is a freelance content writer and ghostwriter who finds inspirations over a cup of hot espresso.

Her interests range from writing and travelling.

You can find more about her on her website www.rogengarcia.com.

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TRAVEL

Return to Krabi

by Alex Bannard

Alex returns to Krabi for three very different experiences.

One of the things I absolutely love about being in Bangkok is the availability of cheap and amazing holidays on your doorstep. I am a little nomad at heart and have travelled around the world 3 times which I guess is why the transient life of the expat appeals so much to me. But this backpacker in me likes adventure, authenticity and off the beaten track. I am not a massive fan of the luxurious resort style holiday since I rather snobbishly feel I could be holidaying anywhere. Although in reality it is probably more of a defence mechanism as Mr P, aka the FD, will not sign off on luxurious hotel bills.

Another element to expat holidays I love is that friends often want to join you, which is great: the kids have company and so do you. But with this comes the paranoia of making holiday suggestions, the endless hours on booking.com. Oh the pressure. Oh the indecision. Oh the hotel, pool, beach fatigue. After several days of searching, reporting back, calculating, looking at flights, I never wanted to see a pool, a beach, a resort again. But I believe everything happens for a reason and these things usually fall into place with time and patience.

Which is exactly what happened on a recent half term trip to Krabi; the trip started at a little boutique resort just myself and the kids and a handful of mostly childless couples in Koh Yao Yai. Getting to there involved a taxi drive to Thalen pier, a wait for an hour until the

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long tail boat to Koh Yao Yai arrived, a half hour or so boat ride and a taxi to the hotel. Or so we thought.

When I approached the captain of the boat that arrived just before 1pm to double check this was indeed the Koh Yao Yai boat I was greeted with, ‘No madam, she no come today.’

What? No way! And other less printable versions flashed through my thoughts.

‘Where you go madam?’

“Koh Yao Yoi, ka’ I reply

‘No problem, you come with me Koh Yao Noi, you get taxi, you go pier, you get boat Koh Yao Yai, ka’ states the boatman matter of factly.

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I call the hotel who say, no wait for the 2.30 boat to Koh Yao Yai, ‘easy for you madam.’ Yeah till she no come again. I wasn’t taking any chances, it was an adventure and the kids couldn’t sit around for another 90 minutes just in case, and besides there was after all only so much more BFG I could read them before we all grew weary. So we hopped on the boat.

Sure enough at the pier we hopped into the back of a ‘taxi’ who took us to another pier, jumped on another long tail boat for a much shorter ride where we were met by the hotel’s van. But when I say taxi’, I don’t mean an Uber, I mean a glorified tuk tuk; the back of a truck, true Thai style. Seats along the side, a roof, no windows, that kind of taxi. Brilliant I love this. The kids did too. Well once the guy who kept spitting out of the back hopped off. Every time he hawked and coughed, launching a mouthful of phlegm onto the tarmac, my daughter would look more and more horrified until unable to hold it in anymore she said, ‘That’s disgusting that is mummy, spitting on the floor.’

The journey itself they relished. Not a single moan. They loved seeing how real people live viewed from the back of the truck. When we arrived at the ‘resort’ it was a secluded, serene, uncommercialised haven, resting on its own private beach with wooden huts on stilts set amongst the palm trees and outdoor bathrooms, it was just enough authentic for us all. A couple of days of solitude and serenity were just enough too, especially as my two are anything but serene, they are typically noisy British kids and there was only so much sipping on a Singha and pretending they weren’t mine I could pull off.

The next leg of the Krabi tour was to return by long tail boat (in a thunderstorm which was rather exciting) and make our way to the private beach of the Centara to meet our friends. To access the beach at the Centara meant navigating the floating pontoon that greets the speedboat, which was literally riding the waves like an enormous flexible surf board and a precarious journey to shore was embarked upon.

Friends who had arrived the night before in the dark had a truly frightening experience on the same jetty. At least in the daylight we could time our dashes to the next handrail for when the waves abated. In the dark carrying a toddler it was not the start to the holiday they had been hoping for.

Apart from some truly Fawlty Towers customer service moments and a poorly toddler, the 4 days flew by, the kids had a ball, mostly jumping in the thrashing waves for hours on end and playing in the pool. I totally enjoyed the adult company and baby cuddles, not to mention the 3 free bottles of vino we secured as compensation for the comedic and shambolic service.

The night before we were due to head to Railei Beach, which is literally round the headland, we had a call to say due to the weather, the long tail boat would not be able to pick us up. To be fair it had rained heavily or drizzled pretty much

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most of the previous 3 days and the seas was choppy at best.

Obviously on the day of departure we awoke to blue skies and calm waters. Surely a speedboat trip back to Ao Nang pier, a taxi drive to another pier and another long tail boat wasn’t necessary. Yes surely it was. Here we go again.

When we arrived at the pier to take us to Railei Beach, it was like we had arrived in a totally different country: flat seas, lake like in their reflections and calmness. Unbelievable.

Railei Beach Club nestles in the jungle, monkey’s everywhere, every teak Thai style house a different design, this was the kind of experience I was looking forward to.

My friend’s sister looked slightly horrified at the abundance of nature. The kids were delighted, plenty of room to run around, play football, make a noise, and a beautiful beach right next door … if only it wasn’t packed with backpackers.

You see that’s the thing, you go for authentic Thai beach experiences, then you have to accept the nubile, tattooed and dreadlocked, carefree travellers that frequent. Therein lies the lesson: nothing is perfect, even authentic is not perfect.

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TRAVEL

We were meeting my daughter’s bestie and family and the girl’s screamed with delighted when they saw each other and ran into each other’s arms, such is the welcome from 5 year olds. The oldies went for a more sedate G&T welcome.

Dinner was at a local Thai spit and sawdust establishment: plastic chairs and tables in the open air, accessible over wooden planks across the mud and ducking the overhead wires dangerously low enough to garrotte unsuspecting passers by.

Indie joined her bestie on yet another long tail boat trip to nearby beaches. We explored the diamond cave - no diamonds but absolutely stunning stalactite formations. We people watched as an entrepreneurial family set about roofing a restaurant just in time for high season a hilarious undertaking of several onlookers, one of whom was literally asleep on the roof and 2 hard workers.

There’s a joke in there somewhere.

The waves were calmer and the kids thoroughly enjoyed jumping in them and playing in the sand, the beach was quieter for the remaining days than when we arrived and the skies mainly stayed clear, blue and glorious. I was surprised how few of the farang honoured the mourning period Thailand had been thrown into with the passing of the King and how quickly island life had returned to normal, certainly for the tourists.

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Very soon it was time to board the long tail boat back to the pier and onto the airport. Time to reflect on a delightful array of experiences: remote boutique style hotel, full on chain and the more rough and ready. In the end the combination was perfect and of course it’s the company you keep not the location that makes a vacation. Without a doubt it was fun and relaxing and Krabi is still one of my favourite Thai destinations.

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Health and fitness

The perfect headstand

by Isabel Valle

Through yoga I have been able to learn so much about myself and life in general, and so I thought it would be a great idea to use my own yoga journey to tell you about some great lessons I am learning along the way.

I remember walking into my first yoga class a couple of years ago, and watching my yoga teacher, William, show us poses I thought a human being wouldn’t be able to replicate. It was crazy! He was challenging gravity, mind and body limitations, and more! I wasn’t sure whether I should just walk out the door and quit whilst I was ahead or finish the class and leave politely and never go back again.

I just about finished the class and realised that even though I assumed yoga would be a breeze because I was in fairly good shape, I really struggled with it. I was used to running long distances with my podcast on, as I love being able to learn and run, multitasking two of my favourite activities. And yet this seemed so much more challenging than marathon running.

Yoga requires a quietened mind, a focus on movements generated with internal energy and intention, and the ability to be able to just let go of any preconceived ideas you may have about what you can and cannot do.

I was so curious about yoga and what this group of people were able to do in class, that I kept going back, studying every single one of them as they moved and developed their practise. The weekly practises started to pay off, as I slowly started to improve, but somehow I knew in my mind that certain poses, like headstands, I would never be able to achieve. I would leave the room feeling frustrated with myself and upset that I wasn’t able to do a headstand.

I watched others who weren’t as strong, or young, carry out their headstands with

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confidence, which made me feel even more discouraged about not being able to do it.

Then I thought to myself, instead of comparing myself to others and try to follow their path, how about I come up with my own set of steps? I was so afraid I would fall and hurt my back, so I started practising with the wall close by, so if I fell the wall would catch me. Then I took a break from it all as I knew that distance was one of the best tips for alleviating frustration. Just two steps, and it started to work; I started to relax my mind and just allow myself to be in the moment, working through the pose bit by bit, with no expectations. Suddenly I started to be able find the right core stability, head position, then raise my legs, and then, out of nowhere, I performed my first “perfect” headstand.

What I thought a couple of months earlier was a task impossible to achieve, I made it happen. All it took was my commitment to want to work through my fears, to test my limits, to give myself the chance to practise in a way that suited me, letting go of comparing myself of others, and voila! A perfect headstand …

There are still so many poses in yoga that I feel are so impossible to reach, and yet now I feel that if I keep working in my practise, and keep believing in myself, I will one day be able to perform them, just like I did with my headstand. So I am currently working on my handstand and having a lot of fun with it!

And this lesson applies to everything in life. You truly can achieve anything you set your mind to. No matter how crazy, or

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impossible it may seem right now, dare to dream big and start your journey to get you there. You will be amazed by your capacity to achieve things you never thought possible!

Let me give you a tip that I use for myself; if you are feeling frustrated or disillusioned that you are not able to do or achieve something in your life, just start by switching the words “I can’t” for “I can’t yet”. Just because you are not able to do something right now, it doesn’t mean that you won’t be able to do it in the future.

Because chances are, that if you are committed to giving it a go, to start it, to think about the small steps that will allow you to get on your way, then you will get there.

So think about your cant’s, and decide which ones are worth pursuing. Success is within the reach of us all, go and get it!

Namaste!

Isabel

HEALTH and FITNESS

Island Yoga

by Alex Bannard

Alex’s yoga retreat on Koh Yao Noi becomes more than just a welcome break from solo parenting.

When Mr P headed off to Singapore only to return alternate weekends, I had not anticipated how all encompassing and draining it is being the solo parent for every twelve out of fourteen days. I know many people all over the world for one reason or another do this, but within the expat lifestyle it a relatively rare phenomenon. Of course we have help, Sabel covers all the household chores and arranges breakfast while I hustle the kids out of bed and into their uniforms and cooks the evening meal whilst I oversee showering and pyjamas and then later bedtimes and for all this support I am immensely grateful. But the real parenting, the emotional support, the positive disciplining, the real work rests completely on my shoulders and it is relentless, hard graft.

So when Mr P suggested he would return for the first week of the Songkran school holidays and I should take some time off I have to say it took all of about 10 seconds to realise I needed a break. A quick search on bookyogaretreats.com identified several options in Thailand.

After reading the reviews, looking at locations and prices, yoga styles, classes, workshops, accommodation, I settled on Island Yoga in Koh Yao Noi.

Why? The price was reasonable. I did not want to spend the same as I could have spent for us all to go away; the reviews were good; they have rolling start and end dates not set dates and you can choose between, 4 day, 6 day and longer retreats. The resort offers a choice of no frills authentic wooden accommodation from shared dorms to private huts with either fan or a/c. There are two yoga classes a day, in the morning and in the late afternoon and the style of yoga is mostly centred around vinyasa flow and yin yoga. There are additional workshops and other activities around the island to participate in, as well as bikes and motorbikes on site to hire to venture further afield.

I knew a little bit about Koh Yao Noi having ventured briefly here en route to Koh Yao Yai. It is the smaller of the two islands floating

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between Krabi and Phuket and easily reachable by long tail boat from ports in either destination once a songtaow or taxi has transported you to the correct launching point.

Both islands are largely Muslim and as such delightfully not so developed or commercial. The island is charming and peaceful offering kayaking and rock climbing in addition to beautiful beaches, great restaurants and massage.

Island Yoga nestles just off the beach amongst the mangroves and is a, relaxed, serene venue. After traversing the island I came to the conclusion they have one of the best locations, set off the ‘main’ road that skirts the island and overlooking a quiet stunning beach shared only by one other ‘resort’, Sea View Bungalows. This being the place to stay if you are travelling with your kids, just purchase a yoga package from Island yoga, so the serenity and peace is not ruined by the rambunctious energy of children.

The sun rises on the beach and you can enjoy a 45 min tai chi moving meditation before the morning yoga session.

The cicadas dawn chorus is deafening and vibrant and ensures you won’t miss the freshly brewed coffee prepared to accompany the sunrise if tai chi doesn’t appeal. I did the class several times and it is truly a beautiful way to start the day. It is amazing how you can really feel the energy, the chi, in the palms of your hands. It was my first experience of tai chi and I feel inspired to explore more back in Bangkok.

The morning yoga class is two hours of flow vinyasa style yoga but it begins with meditation and pranayama, breathing work, so it is not two hours of pure asana work and there was not too much focus on sun salutations. My first morning class began with moving and shaking and dancing round the room to get the body moving. It was an unusual start to a yoga class but a lot of fun and I couldn’t help thinking it was similar to a sober full moon party.

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The yoga throughout the six days I was there was pitched perfectly: not too strenuous, not to easy, just the right amount of stretch (pardon the pun) physically, mentally and spiritually. The teachers are all young and incredibly knowledgeable and I learnt lots of different things that I look forward to putting into my own practice and even exploring with my own clients.

I was there for the Pink Full Moon, the spring full moon and that day both sessions worked on channelling the energy of the moon. Given that the moon can move oceans and that our bodies are 70% water, it makes sense that the full moon can dramatically impact our own bodies. It can leave you feeling unbalanced, energised or out of sorts. Since this particular full moon was especially powerful combining the spring full moon with a number of planets in alignment, creativity and new beginnings were ripe for harnessing.

The late afternoon sessions are more gentle yin style classes where, similar to restorative yoga, poses are held for several minutes to open up fascias, encouraging healing and improved movement. On arrival you will generally begin the retreat with this class and it is a perfect introduction. All classes finish with savasana which is the most important pose of any yoga class and a time for blissful serenity.

The resort is owned by a local lady Khun Ning who runs the restaurant that offers a buffet style breakfast straight after the morning class and other Thai dishes from lunchtime onwards which are both delicious and reasonably priced. David who heads up the yoga side of things saw the potential in the 3 hut resort 8 years ago and after six months of climbing, tai chi and yoga on the island never went home.

The resort can now support 55 guests with 2 salas for yoga practice. In high season groups are split into beginner and intermediate to advanced. He has plans to open next high

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HEALTH and FITNESS

season with a third state of the art 180m yoga hall, three therapy/treatment rooms, a meditation hall and a sound healing chamber with many of the existing team returning to teach. By high season 2018 there will be additional accommodation.

If you need more between the classes than just relaxing by the pool, there is enough nearby within walking distance to entertain: Arita massage has some wonderful treatments; Bay View restaurant offers spectacular views of the bay and yet more delicious Thai food, their Panang curry is especially good; La Luna, 500m away offers the best pizza I have tasted in Thailand, wine and a lovely vibe; Chaba, around a km’s walk or bike ride away, offers real coffee, an amazing gluten free chocolate cake (which essentially makes it free of calories, right?) and organic delights.

Bikes are available and the island is small enough to cycle around if you wish to explore or motorbikes if you are brave or lazy or both. I took a bicycle with grand plans to explore the whole island. Heading first to Buddha Beach, so called because the monks used to meditate there, I missed the turning and ended completely off piste in the forest. Retracing my steps I found the narrow track behind a shop leading to the bridge over the estuary and followed the path up the hill discovering a concrete tiled sala, where I presumed the original monks had meditated.

It afforded stunning views around Phagnan Bay. As I approached what I assumed was the beach, I had to climb over a chicken wire fence to get there but I have never been one to let a fence get in the way of a mission and I was determined to find this beach because whenever I shut my eyes in the yoga sala's I had been seeing bright white outlines of monks, which I took as a sign. Unfortunately the tide was high and the beach almost nonexistent but that did not distract from a sense of achievement.

I made it to the very south of the island and sat on the

dock of the bay Thai style but the intensity of the heat was such that when I came across Kaya restaurant past the rice paddies and next door to the Muay Thai boxing stadium I parked up and enjoyed one of the best massaman curries I have had in Thailand, abandoning plans to circumnavigate the island. One of my yogi colleagues joined me and her Tom Kai Gai was delicious too. Another must try when you get to Koh Yao Noi.

The other guests on the retreat were lovely as you usually find when you are sharing a similar interest. We varied in ages, backgrounds, cultures and countries and there were even some blokes. Some lived, like me, in Bangkok and were escaping the city madness for some peace and tranquility, one gorgeous lady had flown in from LA just for the 5 day retreat, so far to come but I absolutely love that she had.

This was my first yoga retreat and I can honestly say I absolutely loved it and really hope to return, depending of course what the universe has in store for us. I even considered embarking on this kind of teaching myself and pulling the kids out of school and homeschooling them in order to do so but whilst I relished every minute of it, I am not sure I am ready quite yet to take it that far. But I would really recommend a yoga retreat and in my limited experience Island Yoga offers a completely authentic, beautiful opportunity to immerse yourself in yoga, serenity, peace and calm in surroundings that are rare to find the days in Thailand.

Island Yoga closes in May and September.

Alex Bannard and her family have lived outside the UK for more than 10 years. Alex teaches yoga to private clients and group classes and can be contacted at masteryoga@elboliving.com.

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EDUCATION

ISAT welcomes Mike Connor to Bangkok

The number of international schools per capita in Bangkok is the highest of anywhere in the world and every school strives to develop its own unique identity to maintain healthy enrollment. To help schools survive in this challenging environment, The International Schools Association of Thailand (ISAT) sponspored a special seminar titled "Boosting Enrollment in a Competitive Market." The event was led by Mike Connor, co-author of the National Association of Independent Schools' (NAIS) book, Marketing Independent Schools in the 21st Century and President of Connor Associates Strategic Services, based in California.

The workshop took place on January 27th, 2017 at the Renaissance Hotel, and attracted over 140 attendees from 70 international schools in Thailand. Mike Connor is an expert in internal and external marketing, admission, communications, fundraising,and strategic planning. More recently, his work with predicting psycho demographic patterns to pinpoint and enroll appropriate families has earning the attention of the National Business Officers Association in the United States.

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According to Connor, in order for schools to effectively distinguish themselves in their market, they need to answer and boldly communicate the answers to six essential questions about themselves. Without strong and bold answers to these questions, a school cannot honestly expect their potential families to understand their place in the market or be motivated to enroll. These questions are:

1. Who are we?

2. Who are we not?

3. What we stand for?

4. What do we not stand for?

5. Why what we stand for matters?

6. Where are we headed?

Through understanding its identity and direction, a school can effectively communicate a clear vision and educate parents about how they are preparing their students for the world they will inherit. Knowing these answers communicates confidence as it attracts families who share those values, creating pride of association. Connor also explained with rising tuition and fees, it's critical to demonstrate why the educational experience a school offers is worth what it costs.

According to Connor, educational value is measured in four dimensions: 1. R eturn on investment. How are you making a difference in those whose lives you touch? Can you offer tangible, third party evidence of positive outcomes?

2. T ransformational teaching and learning. What evidence can you show that you are on the leading edge of best educational practice and applied learning research?

3. C onstituent orientation. How do you ensure customer service, convenience, intimacy, and attention to their "pain points?"

4. C ost consciousness and stewardship. How are you keeping costs down? Are you stewarding tuition and donations to ensure fiscal prudence and accountability? Is your operations budget the quantification of your mission statement?

Once identity, vision, and value are in place, positive word of mouth marketing: a school's most credible marketing tool, will take over. Connor claims that 80% of new enrollment is based on word of mouth marketing. It's essential that all school employees, trustees, and families are onboard to spread the word around a unified and clear message that distinguishes their school from competitors.

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Mike Connor's eight hour conference delved deep into these urgent issues and provided a lively workshop for international schools that were supported by intriguing activities that encouraged participants to leave with an action plan. The International Schools Association of Thailand (ISAT) was thrilled to have Mike Connor in Bangkok and appreciated his valuable perspective and expertise.

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Shrewsbury a Vision of Excellence Shrewsbury International School offers an inspirational British education for children aged 3 to 18 years. We are now accepting applications for entry into Junior School in August 2017, limited places available.

Book a school tour today by calling Ilka Hodapp at 02 675-1888 ext. 1110 or email admissions@shrewsbury.ac.th. Find out more at www.shrewsbury.ac.th

Exceptional People • Outstanding Opportunities • Academic Excellence

EDUCATION

Student run microcredit bank makes impact in NIST community As schools continue to struggle to adapt to the shifting needs of the 21st century, the importance of community development and social change increasingly drive the structure of education. Combined with a focus on inquiry and reflection, students in many progressive schools now shape their own learning, seeking to use the knowledge and skills gained in the classroom in real life contexts. At NIST, service forms such an integral part of the community that students launch their own NGOs, partner with global organisations and, in the case of the NIST Microcredit Bank (NMB), make a difference in the lives of those who support them every day.

A student run service group that aims to enrich all members of the NIST community, the NMB offers debt relief, business loans, and scholarships for the children of the school’s support staff, which has become a primary focus. In many cases community service programmes within schools only touch the surface, maintaining a distance between the students and those seen as the recipients of support. The NMB, like other service initiatives at NIST, works at a deeper level by basing its activities in research based, sustainable economic and social development. This requires a commitment to building relationships and partnerships, and in turn forging a supportive community.

Now in its fifth year, the programme has now awarded over 100 scholarships to more than 50 students ranging from the primary to tertiary levels. In many cases these funds have enabled the children of our support staff become the first in their family to go on to higher education opportunities, and have also provided financial relief for those who are

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supporting larger families. The students of the NMB do not view this as charity, but rather a responsibility that aligns to the school’s values of integrity, caring, community and growth.

In addition to commending the recipients for their effort in qualifying for the scholarships, Head of School Brett Penny summed up a key part of the school’s vision as he addressed the members of the NMB: “The purpose of education should not simply be to learn math or science, or to go on to a good university. Education should contribute to building a better society. By being a part of the microcredit bank, you have already taken the first step toward making a positive impact in the lives of others.” If this initiative is any indication, all of the participants will go on to make a difference well beyond the walls of the school.

EDUCATION

Red flag?

Don’t panic, teacher has a plan

by Nicole Iberri, M. Ed

It’s never a fun experience when your child’s teacher asks to speak with you about your little one but here’s what they do before they come to you with a red flag.

As a classroom teacher for over 13 years, I’ve had the opportunity to work with many children, all with unique needs and learning styles. It can be challenging to meet the individual needs of a class full of students, but that’s my job, and I love it! As a teacher, I am in no position, nor am I qualified, to label a student. I’m not even interested in that. I just want to implement strategies to help each child be successful and get them any extra help they may need.

Whatever the red flag, the first step, as a teacher, is to figure out how I can help a child make progress every day in the classroom.

As the parent, I want you to trust that I know your child.

I know your child really, really well. I want them to succeed.

I want to do everything I can to make that happen. I’m trying strategies every day and often working late or up in the middle of the night thinking about your child and what I can do to help. When your child’s teacher approaches you with a concern, please know that there has been a lot of observation, research, and consulting happening prior to bringing this to your attention.

The reason for that is simple. Teachers are professionals who want to do their jobs well.

They want to implement teaching strategies to help your child succeed. Sometimes with just a few adjustments, improvements happen and red flags go away. There are so many variables that could be making a child act in a certain way.

Teachers need to consider and rule out whatever they can before coming to you.

other educators can suggest techniques I may not have thought of. I then implement strategies and see if there are improvements, with documentation. These strategies can be simple to complex. It all depends on the specific needs of the child. This way, when I approach you, I can specifically tell you what I’ve tried and what is working or not. After this initial meeting, I will always have a follow up meeting in a few months to revisit what has happened and hopefully tell you about all the improvements and successes your child has had! This would also be the time that I may need the counsellor to come in or suggest consulting a specialist.

Bottom line

The most important thing I want to emphasise is that I may be your child’s teacher, but I truly understand how special your child is to you because they are special to me too! I want your child to be happy and successful and I want to work with you to make that happen.

The method

When I see a child who is struggling, with anything from the curriculum to communicating, this is the method used. I start documenting what I see. This way, not only do I have records, but I can see if there are any patterns. Next, I consult with other professionals. Sometimes

Nicole Iberri is an early years teacher at KIS International School.

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Law and education

by Philip Sweeney

Philip Sweeney is the Director of Opus International Education and also Opus Law International. He came to live in Thailand in 2014 after a career as a Solicitor in Yorkshire spanning over 30 years.

In what areas of law did you practice?

Initially I covered most areas of general practice including property work, family cases, wills and probate, civil and criminal litigation. However for the last twenty years I specialised in serious fraud and complex criminal cases many of which had an international element to them resulting in trips to Thailand, Spain, Holland, Ireland, India, Pakistan and Hong Kong.

What made you decide to live in Thailand?

My wife is originally from Thailand and after living in the UK for several years she was anxious to return. We have a house in Chiang Mai and that is where we decided to finally settle.

When and why did you first come to Thailand?

My wife is from Thailand and the first time I visited was over 10 years ago. This was not my first trip to the Far East by any means. My father had been an officer in the British Army and in the early 1960s his Regiment was based in Penang, Malaya, as it then was. Before that I had been born in Canada and we had also lived in Cyprus. In fact my early years up until my father’s retirement from the Army were spent in several overseas locations including three years in New York where he was attached to the UN. Where were you educated?

I was sent from Malaya at the age of 8 years to boarding school in England and left school at 18 years. After a gap year I went to university in Leeds eventually qualifying as a solicitor and started practising as a lawyer in Leeds.

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Education and law that is an interesting combination, how did that come about?

Before leaving the UK, I had already made arrangements with two Thai friends who I had met in Yorkshire, to form Opus International Education. They had both completed their postgraduate studies in Sheffield, and after, stayed in the UK running a business there until their return to Thailand in 2012.

They had both experienced study and work in the UK, and so we decided we would be able to provide a personal, good, and knowledgeable service to students in Thailand wishing to study in the UK. We now have staff who have studied in other countries and are able to counsel students of all ages on the full range of educational opportunities in the UK, Ireland, Holland, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, China, Malaysia and the United States.

Our students and perhaps more importantly their parents can be provided with a comprehensive choice of schools, summer courses, colleges and universities, complementing all academic abilities and course options. Students come from both Thai and international schools, universities or the workplace.

We also assist with accommodation planning, visa and travel arrangements. All our services are free to students.

The law firm Opus Law International was more recently formed. One of the same two Thai friends I knew from the UK, is a Thai licensed lawyer, and we set up the company to provide a full range of legal and business services primarily

for the expatriate community in Thailand. As a foreigner I am restricted from practising as a lawyer in Thailand, but I am able to provide legal consultation, and being a native English speaker I can bridge the gulf that can sometimes inevitably occurs in translation, during communication between an English speaking foreigner and a Thai lawyer. As a qualified solicitor still regulated by my regulatory authority in England, I remain subject to the professional code of conduct and ethics in my business dealings even in Thailand.

What services do Opus Law provide?

Company formation, visa, work permits, BOI applications, Amity treaty, employment disputes, property and business purchase and sales, wills, divorce and family disputes, civil and criminal cases. The most common enquiry we receive usually relates to business visas and work permits, and they are often linked to the procedure concerning company formation. It is not easy for a foreigner to deal with such matters by him or herself, without the assistance of a Thai speaker, because of the need to deal with documents written in Thai and interactions with the various government agencies.

Have you dealt with any criminal cases in Thailand?

Yes, a British subject who was arrested for being concerned in the supply of cocaine. As a result I made visits to the prison where he was at first held in custody, until allowed bail. That was an eye opening introduction to the conditions in which prisoners are held, and I only saw the visiting area. It also gave me a very interesting insight, during the course of the proceedings, into the Thai criminal justice system.

Do the two separate parts of your business overlap at all?

They do. I frequently give talks at international and other

schools about the merits of studying law at university pointing out that it does not necessarily mean that you have to become a lawyer. In fact research has shown that non legal employers favour law graduates over all other degrees. I have particular links to BPP University in the UK, which is known as the University of the Professions (Law, Accountancy, Dentistry) and we work together to promote, in particular, the advantages of a law degree from the UK. We are also keen to highlight the benefits for any Thai law graduates who are able study for a Graduate Diploma in Law, which acts as a conversion course, thus enabling them to take the legal professional exams. This can lead to qualification as a solicitor or barrister in England. Such a qualification can enhance their opportunities of being employed by one of the large UK or US International law firms with offices in Bangkok.

This is a very interesting aspect of combining my legal experiences with the education consultancy. Dealing with and advising students is also richly rewarding as their enthusiasm at the start of their career paths is highly infectious.

Philip Sweeney can be reached at: Opus Law International p.sweeney@opus-law.com or Opus International Education p.sweeney@opus-inter-ed.com

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BANGKOK

EDUCATION

Qualifications vs Manners

by Jon Wingfield, Deputy Head Brighton College Bangkok

When we are interviewing teachers we routinely ask which of the following is most important for a pupil: that they leave school with outstanding qualifications or outstanding manners. Inevitably their first response is ‘both’, but when we take that option away from them the vast majority, indeed all but very few, will say ‘outstanding manners’. Prospective parents will also tell us that what they want most from a school is for their children to be treated as an individual, to be inspired, to be prepared for life beyond school, but most importantly to be happy.

Very few will admit to simply wanting the very best examination results. And yet, even though it would be difficult to find anyone who would disagree with the fact that there is more to a quality education, and indeed their children, than how good they are at sitting exams, results continue to be the benchmark by which schools are judged and so form an important part of what parents look for in the school they choose for their children. So the question is this: are exam results the best way to judge the quality of a school and it pupils in the 21st Century?

On the one hand results are still the most tangible, most obvious and significantly, the most comparable measure of

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a school’s success and unfortunately that of its pupils. As such, whereas many of us would argue that qualifications are perhaps not the best way to judge the quality of a school, they are certainly the most convenient, and while that remains the case we are unlikely to see universities change their entrance requirements from ‘A*, A*, A’ to ‘happy, kind and creative’ and even less likely that we will see published league tables ranking schools based upon the morality of their pupils and their ability to work in a team rather than their IGCSE results. And while our children are being compared and ranked on the basis of IGCSE and A level results, it

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is natural that we as parents continue to look closely at exam results when choosing a school for our children and quite rightly too. It is very much the responsibility of a school to ensure that there are as many opportunities open to their pupils as possible when they leave. Like it or not, qualifications open doors and it would be naive to shy away from this reality.

So the best school is the one that gets the best results … right? On face value, the answer would seem to be ‘yes’.

Not only is it convenient to judge how good a school is by its results, there also appears to be a great deal of merit in doing so - but that cannot be the end of the story. The very best schools will see outstanding academic success as the starting point; a means by which universities and employers are able to look beyond exams at what is really special about a candidate. Their qualifications will open doors, but whether they are invited through them and asked to stay will be more and more dependent on the kind of person they are.

Not only does this make sense to us instinctively as parents and educators, there is evidence to suggest the world of employment is moving in this direction as well.

In 2015, accountancy firm Ernst and Young announced that it would no longer require students to have a 2:1 degree and the equivalent of three B grades at A level to be considered for its graduate programmes. At the time, their Managing Partner for Talent was quoted as saying, ‘our own internal research of over 400 graduates found that screening students based on academic performance alone was too blunt an approach to recruitment. It found no evidence

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to conclude that previous success in higher education correlated with future success in subsequent professional qualifications undertaken.’ In addition, last year I was talking to a senior executive from a large multinational company about their recruitment. He also told me that qualifications were becoming much less important and that, beyond the fact that they had a degree, his company were considering not looking at qualifications at all. He explained that, after years of filtering candidates based on the quality of their degrees and A levels, there was actually little correlation between this and their success within the organisation.

Instead he said that they were now much more focused on looking for ways to test the characteristics that they had found were much more important and, significantly, the things that

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EDUCATION

they found almost impossible to change through training. This included their ability and enthusiasm for learning new things, their ability to adapt to a changing business environment, their ability to communicate with and inspire others and their ability to keep calm, work as part of a team and solve problems. He also said that there was a less tangible side to recruitment: someone's ability to contribute to the culture of the firm and to have something more to offer beyond the confines of a job description. In short, he said that the most important thing was not how much they know, but the kind of person that they are.

My son is 12 years old and, statistically, he is likely to go to university and do at least one degree. As such, he probably won’t get his first ‘real’ job for another 10 years. Were we to travel back in time 10 years, when those graduating from university this year were my son’s age, a world without iPads, a world in which the iPhone 1 had only just been released, and a world in which the biggest selling product of all time was still the Rubik’s Cube, we may get an idea of the challenge of preparing our children for life beyond school. How much do we actually know about what

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that world will look like and how important will qualifications be? Fortunately, we do know that some skills have intrinsic value; numeracy and communication of course, but also kindness, a curiosity and enthusiasm for learning new skills, an ability to acquire new skills, happiness, a feeling of selfworth and confidence - in short the skills to lead happy and fulfilled lives ourselves, the ability to enrich the lives of those around us and the skills that employers are increasingly looking for in graduates.

So the real test of how well a school is preparing its pupils for the future is perhaps not the results themselves but whether or not pupils are getting the opportunity to develop these skills along the way. Are they being taught in a way that inspires a lifelong love of learning and a curiosity to find out more? Are they involved in a rich and varied activities programme that enables them to discover their passions while learning how to work co-operatively, take risks and solve problems? Are they developing in a system that promotes kindness and understanding while encouraging them to be the very best version of themselves? Or are they simply being trained how to pass exams whilst having their hobbies, interests, social life and family time eroded by endless trips to private tutors?

Certanly my experience in education and as a father has taught me one very important fact; children do better when they are happy! Children do better when they feel they are valued, have friends and are treated with kindness and respect. Children do better when they have balance in their lives - playing the ukulele really does make you better at science! Children do better when they spend quality time with their families rather than just on the way to see one of several private tutors. And by better, yes I do mean they will get As and A*s, but most importantly I mean that they will be better equipped to succeed in a world that needs them to be able to do more than remember all of the capital cities of the world.

The most successful schools may be judged on their exam results, but they will not see them as their greatest selling point; this should always be the quality of the pupils that achieve them!

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TRAVEL

European ski trip

by Scott and Nori Brixen

There's an old joke about Americans' whirlwind tours of Europe: Son: Where are we Dad? Dad: (consulting itinerary) Well it's Tuesday, so this must be France.

It's funny. But it's not really a joke at all. With so few vacation days, Americans tend to overdo their schedules and under do their understanding. As a nation, we're terrible at geography and foreign languages (including, some might say, English). So I couldn't help but chuckle at our upcoming European road trip: five German speaking countries in 10 days, with notable gaps in our language (neither of us sprechen Deutsch) and route planning (how exactly would we cross the Dolomites)?

Our first stop was Munich, Germany - at 6:30am. The car rental process at the airport was very quick. The car packing process was not. We had too much luggage and too many kids. So we made a difficult decision and gave Kiva to the parking lot attendant. Just kidding.

It took a while to get used to manual transmission again, and the hidden 'pull the ring up to go into reverse' gearshift provided me with a nice opportunity to embarrass myself at the DHL office (where Nori had shipped a multi country sim card).

Nori had found a great Airbnb apartment in the West End, an area that neither of us had visited previously. We probably should have taken a nap. But with only one day in Munich before we drove to Austria, the urge to explore was too great. So first we had a walk around the pleasant little neighbourhood: stopping for fresh baked pretzels (this, together with gummy bears and schnitzel, were the boys'

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favourite foods of the trip), enjoying classic cocktails (Aperol Spritz, Hugo) at al fresco bars and marvelling at the modern traditional Bavarian clothing at Angermaier. After lunch, we headed downtown to walk through Marienplatz. But our real goal was the high temple of beer.

This was my third visit to the Hofbrauhaus. The first was during my post college, post breakup solo tour of Europe. (My heartache vanished shortly after arrival in Paris.) The second was when I was young investment banker, chaperoning the management of a Detroit auto parts manufacturer on their IPO roadshow. Would my wife and kids find anything amusing about a cavernous hall filled with giant beer steins and dirndl clad maidens? The question never crossed my mind. We were going for sure!

Thankfully, the waiters at the Hofbrauhaus have seen everything, from out-of-control stag parties to flag waving Chinese tourist mobs. As soon as we sat down, they flung four sets of crayons and beer themed activity books at the boys. I ordered two large apple juices for the boys, and they were served four kiddie steins of beer coloured liquid.

Nori had to use both hands to drink her Weiss beer and I struggled to lift my Pilsner with one. The people at the adjacent tables were laughing and taking photos. We looked like one big, happy, beer drinking family!

Our 3 hour journey from Munich to Großarl, Austria started and finished in heavy rain. As we drove into the little town, I could see the 'bunny slopes' on the right. They were already slushy, with pools of standing water. In fact, the bottom third of the mountain was mostly bare. Only a few areas still had snow, thanks to the orange snow machines staggered along the runs. The weather forecast called for three more days of rain. The skiing outlook did not look good.

The Waldhof 'Kinderhotel' however, was extraordinary.

Typically, our arrival at hotels and restaurants generates a lot of interest and quite a few disapproving looks. But our family of six was nothing special at the Waldhof. Everything from the

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room to the meals to the activities was designed to keep kids entertained and happy. Yet amazingly, this hotel literally bursting with kids wasn't a madhouse! Adults weren't ignored either; on our first night they greeted us with local bubbly and complimentary red and white wines with dinner. Every evening there was a big buffet (cold cuts, cheeses, soups, salads), but we always had four a la carte choices for dinner.

Unfortunately, it was still raining the next morning.

Was this going to be a total washout? The ski school called to inform us that they had moved the classes to the top of the mountain. So we got all four boys and their gear into the chairlift (not easy) and hoped for the best.

At the top, it was just wow, Wow, WOW! Blue skies, jagged peaks and fresh snow. The main lodge was warm, decorated with stuffed foxes and smelt of

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“At

the top, it was just wow, Wow, WOW! Blue skies, jagged peaks and fresh snow.�

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pretzels, strudels and schnitzels. Outside next to the wooden ski racks there were two little semi-enclosed beer halls.

When the sun came up, they untied the stays and the canopy folded up like umbrella - instant outdoor biergarten! And on a terrace with a spectacular Alpine panorama they had put out a dozen beach chairs. It was sun and snow worship. "Let's move here," I begged Nori.

The ski instructors had cordoned off a little area next to the tow lift. That's where the students practiced shuffling sideways uphill ("keep both your skis straight!") and then snowplowing downhill (they called it 'making a pizza slice.')

Once a kid had demonstrated even modest braking ability, they got him straight on the tow rope and up the slope. Tai had a brief but tearful whinge about the cold ("I'm freezing!

I'm freezing!") before practicing studiously. Logan's athleticism and fearlessness had him on the tow rope first.

But our little boys - Drake and Kiva (five years old) - were struggling.

Once the boys were at the ski school, we had five hours to explore the mountain. This was my first time skiing in Europe and I loved it. The views of the Alps caused me to catch an edge and crash more than once. Nori and I loved taking mid run breaks at the little huts that dotted the mountain: should we have a Raedler (beer and Sprite), a shot of schnapps with fresh raspberries, or just a hot chocolate? And while US ski resorts are full of young punks (mostly snowboarders) wearing attention grabbing gear and launching off everything, the scene at Großarl was all about skiing and family.

A lot of things can go wrong with a first time skiing holiday. Some kids just don't like skiing. Kids from hot climates can easily get sick. And, of course, kids (and adults) hurt themselves skiing all the time. Miraculously, none of that happened to us. The boys stayed healthy and they all loved skiing. Of course, getting all the boys' gear on and off each time was exhausting. But by the third day our 'assembly line' was uber-efficient. Thankfully, after a few days of one-on-one instruction, Drake and Kiva were skiing too!

Our last day of skiing was the best. Logan won his age group in the slalom race and was ecstatic about his trophy.

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Tai crashed just before the finish but got up and crossed the line on one ski. But the best thing for me was skiing down the mountain with Tai, Logan and Kiva and congratulating their skiing success with Coca Cola and candy bars at one of the huts!

But how to get to Bolzano, Italy from Großarl? Google maps advised us to drive back to Salzburg and then into Germany in order to join highways that would rocket us south back through Austria and over the Brenner Pass into Italy. At just under 4 hours, that would be the quickest route.

But scenery isn't part of Google's calculations and I hate backtracking, so I mapped out an alternative path that I thought would deliver big mountain views.

We left Großarl at 10am. Nine hours later, we limped into Bolzano with two carsick kids, having crossed over six Alpine passes. Even by own absurd standards, this had been an ambitious drive. But it had also been insanely beautiful, with huge mountains everywhere. We followed minor highways south through the Felbertauern Tunnel to Lienz and then headed west along the Drava Valley. It was there that we stumbled upon the Loacker Factory - our favourite wafer cookies - in Heinfels. After buying bags of hazelnut and cappuccino cream filled goodies at their tempting retail shop, we continued west, crossing into Italy ten minutes later.

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The Dolomites are some of the most stunning mountains in the world. And the road crossing south through the Tre Cime (Three Peaks) National Park was an amazing introduction to their rugged, castle like beauty. We had a quick walk through the chic resort town of Cortina d'Ampezzo, and then turned west to switchback our way up and down a succession of passes (Falgarzo, Campolongo, Pordoi, Costalunga), each crowned with incredible peaks and small scale ski resorts.

The Alto Adige/Sudtirol region of Italy doesn't match your typical image of Tuscan farmhouses, rolling hills and cypress flanked country roads. It's more Sound of Music than La Dolce Vita. The people speak a mixture of Italian and German; the towns all have two names (Bolzano/Bozen); the cities have an Italian flair, but up in the mountains it's all classic Alpine homes and barns. In fact, the region only became a part of Italy after World War I; for hundreds of years before it was part of Austria-Hungary and its predecessors.

Surrounded by mountains and wineries, Bolzano has a lot to offer visitors. But our kids were 'passed out' and below the legal drinking age so we had to find other attractions.

We spent two hours at the nearby Castle Roncolo/ Runkelstein, where the boys enjoyed touching the suits of chainmail armour and looking at frescoes of knights jousting.

Then we returned to the city and visited the intriguing South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. Almost the entire museum is dedicated to one man - Otzi, also known as "Frozen Fritz". Fritz was murdered in the mountains near the Italy-Austria border more than 5,000 years ago and his body buried in snow and ice. The story of his discovery in 1991 and the massive (and ongoing) research to understand Fritz' life, death and

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environment is riveting even for kids. "Daddy! Are these Frozen Fritz' arrows? Did Frozen Fritz wear these pants?" The exhibits were exciting and informative, there was even a little platform that lifted the boys up so that they could see Fritz' actual body!

Liechtenstein is tiny: 20 kilometres tall (north-south) by 5 kilometres wide (east-west), making it the 6th smallest country on earth. It's also rich: thanks to its tax haven status, it is the 3rd wealthiest country on earth on a GDP per person basis. But unlike other tiny/rich nations (Luxembourg, Singapore), Liechtenstein is wildly beautiful. It's an Alpine shard sharing half a valley with Switzerland and half a mountain range with Austria. As we drove up from the valley floor towards our guesthouse in the slope side village of Triesenberg, I kept gasping at the views.

What is there to do in Liechtenstein?

Perhaps surprisingly, a lot. There are centuries old castles, an excellent modern art museum, wine tasting at the Prince of Liechtenstein winery, skiing in Malbun and hiking just about everywhere. On our first morning we drove to the southern end of the country, parked our car and walked across the bridge. At the halfway point we entered Switzerland (very briefly)! I'd been worried that the 'Little country with the long name" (copyright: me) would be an anticlimax. Instead, it was exciting end to an extraordinary European adventure.

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ARTS and CULTURE

Meet the architect: Marcelo von Schwartz

by Rianka Mohan

“All I know is a door into the dark. ” - Seamus Heaney

Enter the world of Marcelo von Schwartz, Argentine film director, architect, photographer, and designer. “These days not many people want to work when they read a book or watch a movie. My work needs you to fully engage and immerse yourself in it.” Haunting images of futuristic cityscapes; ghostly renditions of a bygone era; and innovative films that stay with you long past the viewing are some of the hallmarks of Marcelo’s particular artistry. Expat Life spends an afternoon with him as he walks us through it all.

Marcelo cringes when I use the word artist to describe him. “It has a different meaning in Spanish,” he explains (Spanish being his native tongue), “In English, a far more functional language, the term artist is related to production.

In Spanish, the word typically refers

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to the long dead masters of old. If I’m at an art event in Spain and someone introduces themselves as an artist, I’m immediately turned off. To consider yourself one reeks of conceit and means you talk too much with little substance.” I wonder at the chasm between languages and ask him what he would call himself instead.

Not missing a beat, he answers, “An architect”.

But this label means much more to Marcelo than constructor of buildings. To him, an architect is a creative force combining art, space, and technology to transform society. As such, he describes filmmaker Stanley Kubrick’s seminal film, The Shining, as a fantastic piece of architecture.

“You use geometry to compose the floor plan and elevation of a building.

In film, you do the same in abstract when you construct the layout and character of a scene. The final result, with either a beautiful building or movie, tries not to bring attention to this elaborate planning and the audience may be unaware of the technicalities

used to evoke a particular emotion or guide them to a specific endpoint.

Yet they are there in the skeletal structure of each.” The similarities in their creative underpinnings led Marcelo to study both architecture and film and he has since worked on 15 film and video projects, including his acclaimed movie, Dark Bridge, the first feature film in the world to utilise Theta binaural brainwaves in its music score to accentuate the cinematic effect. Dark Bridge, a thriller shot in Thailand, tells the story of an American uncovering his father’s past. As the title suggests, the film acts as bridge between father and son, past and present, East and West, and more deeply, with the use of binaural beats and a dreamlike landscape, between the character’s state of mind and the viewer’s subconscious. The movie is a trailblazer of sorts in the Neurocinema movement, a field that studies the human brain’s reactions to cinematic stimuli.

I ask what brought Marcelo to Bangkok. “There was a point in my life

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when I lost interest in Western art and culture. In Europe, we’re too attached to the past. Our desire for conservation has been taken to an extreme that it is overwhelming as an architect to try and produce anything new. Being in such surroundings also influences you creatively to forever look back instead of forward. I feel freer to create in Asia.

Inspired by the silent documentary, Symphony of a Metropolis by Walter Ruttmann, I came to Bangkok hoping to make a similar film about Thailand. But as I scouted for locations, each place seemed to tell a different story than the one I had in mind. Thus my idea for a documentary evolved into the film, Dark Bridge.”

Marcelo was born in Buenos Aires, the eldest of four boys. “Since I was four or five years old, I’ve wanted to be an architect. There aren’t any architects in my family but they own a few businesses, one of which is real estate. I remember accompanying my

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grandfather on visits to construction sites with its lingering smell of delicious barbecue from the workers cooking on their breaks. Perhaps that aroma played a role in determining my career? I can’t say for sure!” Marcelo considers himself fundamentally driven by impulse. It led him to make an impromptu trip to Los Angeles during his first year in university to visit famed American architect, Charles Willard Moore. Did you have an introduction and did he know you were coming?

“No,” admits Marcelo, “I found his studio in Westwood and walked in to meet him. He was very kind and spent time with me speaking of architecture, introducing me to his team and to some of his projects. I promised to return upon graduation and study under him.” Unfortunately, Moore passed away in Marcelo’s final year. Robbed of a mentor, he sought another from among his architectural heroes. Again, it was a spontaneous whim based on

a photograph that decided his next city for him - an image of a group of suited men having their lunch at a beach in Barcelona. “Something about the lifestyle depicted in that one photograph instantly appealed to me - the setting, the sun, the sea, the businessmen relaxing in the sand on their lunch break.” In the late 1980s, he moved to Barcelona to get his Masters in architecture and apprentice under Ignacio Paricio.

At the same time, Marcelo was also involved in filmmaking.

Growing up, he studied with influential Argentine director and screenwriter, David José Kohon, noted for bringing the French New Wave movement to South America. Marcelo himself had made a couple of short films in his home country and continued to create in Spain, even working as art director and production designer on Joaquín Torres’ film, Dead Monday.

In 1996, he wrote and produced the short film, Phoenix, which went on to win awards in Germany (First Prize, Grenzland Filmtage), Netherlands (Special Prize, IMPAKT festival), Spain (Short Selection of the Year, Mataró Film Festival), and Czech Republic (Special Prize of the Jury, Brno Festival), among others. He also began EXPAT LIFE IN THAILAND

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experimenting with photography, enjoying the realistic textures he could bring to his dreamscapes. “I like to switch between different media - film, architecture, photography - because there are certain things that I can express using one medium that cannot be done any other way. For example, in architecture, as you consider a space, the first thing you do as an architect is mentally visualise the building. You have a vision of what it will look like and how people should move through it and what you would like them to feel in each room. However, once the building is up, you cannot control the order or the progression of their movements.

People will inhabit a space however they choose, and what they experience first and last is out of your control. With film, the audience hears, sees, and

feels things as you choose to present them in the sequence closest to your vision.”

Marcelo’s work also branches out into design branding and he has worked with several companies in Europe and South East Asia.

I enquire as to how he reconciles his creativity in all these diverse fields and Marcelo describes himself as a tree with many branches. “Everything is connected - my photography, my film, my creative ideas - and they are primarily driven by spaces. I aim to maintain a balance between focus and freedom. With branding, I’m motivated by the client, their product and their purpose and I like to focus in as much as possible. With my own art, I prefer unlimited freedom. I’m the ultimate consumer of my work and I will keep at it until I’m satisfied, which given my personality sometimes feels like never!

I have to be moved by the things that I do and fortunately, there has been an audience for it and I do not create in isolation.”

Marcelo’s most recent work,The Metropolis Project, is a large scale futuristic odyssey through four Asian cities - Bangkok, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Tokyo. The project aims to capture the spirit of a city in a series of photographs and to reimagine it in the future. “My hope is that the distinguishing values of each metropolis don’t get strangled by gentrification. There is this terrible machine of modernity rolling through cities worldwide and Le Corbusier’s plan of garden cities has had a radical impact on world culture. Visiting Buenos Aires in 1929, Le Corbusier proposed that we raze most of the old city, a plan fortunately rejected

by Argentina. Today, central Buenos Aires remains a very interesting place

with its own distinctive style. What you are surrounded by develops your mind and if certain aspects of your culture disappear, they cease to be references. It’s a dark world indeed if homogeny is all we know.” We return to Europe. Should Asia then perhaps adopt the European ideals of preservation? “Sure but there must be a balance. Europe has swung too much towards conservation while Asia is continually reimagining its landscape.

So yes, perhaps we need to strike a balance between the old and the new.

That is what I try to showcase through The Metropolis Project. What are the key features of each of these cities?

How does Shanghai stay true to its fundamental identity fifty years from now?”

The Metropolis Project will be a travelling exhibition through these four cities with the inaugural exhibition in Bangkok in 2018. In the interim, Marcelo’s photography will be showcased at the prestigious Tokyo Art Fair in May 2017 and he will have a solo exhibition in Bangkok at the RMA Institute in October 2017.

For his work, please visit http://marcelovonschwartz.com.

He can be contacted at https://vonschwartz.tumblr.com

Rianka Mohan moved to Bangkok last year from New York, which she called home for 15 years. She spent 13 years on Wall Street, 10 as an investment banker before taking a career break to pursue writing. She has two kids aged 8 and 4. Rianka is Expat Life’s Art and Culture editor. Please contact Rianka with any arts or cultural events or profiling. rianka.elbkk@gmail.com

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Healthy family travelling

by Karla Walter

As the temperature/rain and humidity start to increase, many people will be planning their holiday adventures. Whether it is a short getaway or a longer journey, plan a health regime before you go. We can get so caught up in counting down the days to our holiday that we forget about how much energy we expand on making those plans to co-ordinate everyone in the family and making sure all the boxes ticked before you leave.

If you are flying, the mindset might be when I get on the plane, I will have time to relax and start my holiday. The other option is when I get to my destination I will then relax, switch off, not think about work, or other issues and finally get to have the holiday I have been looking forward to. Next comes hoping that everything has been done and nothing has been left behind.

For some people flying can be of a great concern including getting to the airport, checking in, immigration and then finding your gate. When travelling with children, you need eyes in the back of your head watching out for them.

What would it look like if your schedule included how to take care of yourself and others before you started your holiday? How to be organised so when you arrive at the airport or your destination, you are already starting to feel relaxed. Then you don’t have to spend two days calming down or switching off your mind from work. If you work back two weeks before you plan to go on your holiday, maybe one

week for some, that’s when you start to plan. Write out your list of everything that needs to be done. I have a girlfriend who does this three weeks before she travels. The list goes up in the kitchen and is divided into all the things that need to be taken care of each day.

As you tick off each day’s tasks on the list, you see it getting smaller and smaller and eventually one or two days before you go, the list is complete.

For example, make sure the clothes you are taking with you have been laundered and folded two days before you go.

The week before lay every out that you think you are going to need, then half the pile and then look for the suitcase you need. The half clothes tip is from when I was travelling a lot for work and was packing for myself every week. There are always clothes we take with us “just in case” and we never wear them. Locate one place in the house where the passports, visa’s, tickets are kept so everything is in easy to reach and access. Arrangements for pets have to be taken care of as far in advance as you can and have a backup just in case there is a last minute issue. If you have a backup at least two or three weeks before you go, then you don’t have to feel the extra pressure on your emotions if the first plan does not work out with the original pet sitter.

How we plan for our emotional and physical health is just as important as the holiday itself. Plan your meals for at least a week before you travel. Create a meal plan and work to it each day. Make sure you have good protein and vegetables to keep your immune system strong and your health in good shape for your holiday. What can you make for dinner that will either be a second meal the following night with a few changes or preparation that is under 30 minutes for the meal?

The evening before your travel, if you have worked to your plan, you will have enough time available to go out and have dinner without coming home to pack your bag at midnight for

“Summertime and the living is easy. ”

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a 6am flight. This is something that I have mentioned before in my articles and I know and live by this. If you have the plan in place you have one less item to think about during the day.

I hear it time and time again, I’ll be fine when I get there?

So many people end up having a cold or flu the first week of their holiday as the body lets go of everything that is being held onto before you leave. The worst thing that you can do for yourself is to skip meals before you go. Don’t let the body become deficient in the minerals and protein that it needs to function before you leave.

With the weather getting warmer and the humidity rising, this takes a lot out of bodies, both mentally and physically.

Increase your water intake perhaps with mineral sachets in it to replace all that you lose during the day perspiring. Without those minerals one gets tired very easily.

“Summertime and the living is easy,” from George Gershwin Porgy and Bess, is the song written by DuBose Hayward in 1934. The words to this song have been sung by thousands of singers over all the world and still the music and lyrics have great meaning.

With festive holidays during these months and international schools having holidays take this time to travel, have fun with friends and family. Most of all enjoy your time together.

Karla Walter has completed extensive studies in homeopathy, nutrition, Traditional Chinese Medicine, macrobiotics, Shiatsu massage, vegetarian cooking, human bio science. Karla has been changing lives through private counselling, public lecturing and teaching. www.living557.com I karlawalter@me.com

FOOD and BEVERAGE

(Michelin) Star grazing in Hong Kong: From street side to rooftop gardens

by Wentworth Power

Restaurant review and food bloggers, Isabella and Wentworth Power, reflect on their culinary adventures in the Pearl of the Orient.

It may just be one of the the most brazen undertakings to boost demand for a product. In 1900, the Michelin brothers created a guide for French motorists containing road maps, and listings of car mechanics, petrol stations and hotels. The idea was to make it easier for drivers to navigate their way around the country, thus increasing the car’s popularity and the mileage on tyres. Today, Michelin stars are synonymous with elite fine dining and the guide is the world’s most revered collection of restaurant reviews.

Leaving behind the days of heavy, monochrome dishes and overcooked vegetables, the globalised gastronomic scene has changed dramatically as multicultural influences educate local palates about foreign flavours and inspire new creations. Acknowledging this, in 2016 Michelin made a radical departure from tradition by recognising the achievements of ‘street stalls’ in the cities of Singapore and Hong Kong.

The Hong Kong Sevens: A friendly clash of cultures

The precipitous island that rises out of Hong Kong harbour is an iconic visual with its skyscraper-studded skyline that virtually swallows Victoria Peak. It’s as though Mother Nature and manmade structures compete for first place on a podium in the sky.

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Like Thailand, Hong Kong’s diverse food scene benefits from its history of immigration and multicultural influences.

Non-Chinese and Chinese populations have coexisted in the ex British colony for years creating a deep rooted diversity.

In the modern era, the global financial hub attracts global corporations and an affluent international crowd.

Isabella and I visited the island in April for the first time to join the raucous annual sporting fixture, the Hong Kong Sevens: ‘Where the world comes to play’ - and the fans come to drink. Over a long weekend, the national stadium accommodates what must surely be the most diverse crowd of nationalities at a global sporting event. Fans from every participating nation (16 in total) share in the festival

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atmosphere and sit side by side to cheer on their team through adrenaline fuelled action.

‘Children’ of all ages take part in fancy dress that ranges from the cumbersome to the absurd, such as oversized dinosaur ensembles, scary clowns and sweat inducing superhero outfits.

The majority of the stadium is reserved for family-friendly seating and activities. It’s in the south stand, however, that the groups of drinkers want to be. The competition for seating at this end of the ground is so fierce that the queue begins at 6am. And so does the drinking. As you might imagine with a 12 hour binge session, the atmosphere towards the middle of the day grows more debaucherous and squalid. Perhaps even feral.

Star grazing Isabella and I were keen to be involved in the party atmosphere, but we were determined to limit our alcohol intake in the national stadium so we could enjoy some of the city’s other cultural and culinary attractions.

Using Michelin stars as our tour guide, we toured the magnificent island, criss-crossing the harbour by ferry and exploring the gritty and the opulent; from street-side to high rise. In 2016, the Hong Kong guide listed 23 street food establishments. We soon learned that the team of street food is loosely applied.

Kelly’s Cape Bop

The 2 time Michelin star winner is located at street level in the heart of the city at the foot of crumbling high rises, surrounded by popular commercial stores.

Spindly thin, double decker trams skate by dropping off office workers who nip in for a quick bite. With orange plastic walls and white counter tops, Kelly’s looks like a juice bar. Suitably, screechy electronic K pop blares out from a wall mounted TV above the side counter.

We’re not sure that this constitutes street food exactly, but it certainly is nice of the monsieur's at Michelin to have put this outlet on the map. Three humble ladies in the pokey kitchen work swiftly and efficiently to roll your seaweed rice rolls.

The fun happens when you delve into your takeaway box of Korean chicken bites. The box is an exploration through different scales of chewy. The deeper you go, the greater

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your discoveries. Sweet chilli is the resounding flavour here, soaked through succulent fried chicken, deep fried lotus leaves and homely sweet potato, with broken peanuts scattered throughout.

Address: 57 Johnston Road, Wan Chai Open: 11am-9pm daily What to order: Famous for its Korean fried chicken, tteokbokki (stir fried rice cake), kimbap (seaweed rice rolls with veg and a meat/fish filling) and seaweed dumplings.

What we paid: A Michelin bargain of HKD 50 (US$6.50) for a box of chicken and tteokbokki Cheung Hing Kee

Running along the street side of this kitchen, a countertop is available for the lucky few. However, you’re more likely to find yourself propped on a high stool, juggling your luscious liquids in the shopping arcade between the kitchen counter and an arts and crafts store. Don’t worry; everyone else looks just as awkward hovelled over their takeaway box.

Similar to their better known cousin, xiao long bao, sheng jian bao (pan-fried buns) are the stars here. They too are filled with meat and hot soup that explode with flavour in your mouth, but the dumpling is thicker and their bottoms are crunchily charred. We tackle two of them that leave a trail of joyous drizzle down our chins: the shrimp and the minced

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This burger truly is deserving of its star and global fame. Let’s hope there’s still room for the chunky triple-fried wedges and another cool beer.

Website: http://thebutchers.club/ Address: G/F, Rialto Building, 2 Landale St, Wan Chai Operating Hours: 8am-11pm daily What to Order: Any burger made with their signature dry-aged Black Angus beef.

What we paid: HK$100 (US$12.86) for the basic cheeseburger

beef with black truffle. Oh the truffle. The initial juicy flavours are quickly followed by an explosion of earthy intensity.

They’re absolutely perfectly balanced.

With a deep red intensity, the beef noodle soup has the appearance of a Massaman curry but the yellow tinge belies its Thai appearance and the flavour is overwhelmingly cumin and cardamom Indian spices. The beef is tender but I wouldn't seek it out on my office lunch break if I worked nearby.

Address: 48 Lock Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Operating Hours: 10am-10pm daily What to Order: Shanghainese pan fried buns (filled with moist soupy pork), dumplings What we paid: HKD 48 (US$6) for two shrimp and two black truffle pan fried buns Butchers Club

The Butchers Club is small but stylish, countertop eating and a burger joint that would not look out of place in London or Bangkok. In fact, it’s a chain with a few branches in ‘Honkers’ and one in Indonesia. Captivatingly, the quality of meat is far superior to beef patty we have ever sampled.

Butchers Club build their burgers using dry-aged Black Angus beef from Australia. They have struck upon a winning formula in the techniques they use to dry-age the meat and control its humidity. The beef is perfectly cooked (that is, barely) and falls apart in the mouth. Once into tackling this sandwiched beast, you soon appreciate the complex combination of fried-in spicy sauces with tangy vegetables.

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Weekend salon brunch - Duddell's

Duddell’s is a cultural destination for anyone who appreciates dining in an artistic setting. Set across two floors that are connected by an impressive staircase, the interior is relaxing with a stylish contemporary design in keeping with the art that hangs from its walls. The main draw for us was the Weekend Salon (‘all you can eat’) Brunch and free-flowing Veuve Clicquot Champagne (alright, so we didn’t quite manage to escape the grog).

One factor to take into account when ordering ‘all you can eat’ is that Duddell’s wasn’t awarded the Michelin stars for its brunch menu, but for its signature dishes. However, this was perfect for our Champagne fuelled group fun. The garden terrace is surrounded by a verdant arrangement of 2 metre high potted plants. Raucous groups of friends catch up over bubbles to spin anecdotes. Couples dressed in faded jeans and Indie Rock black and grey emit a sense of uber cool.

There were certainly some tasty highlights including the range of steamed dumplings. Most of all, the crispy fried ribs with their moist sweet chilli coating were the Goldilocks of ribs: not too sweet, not too spicy, not too sour, not too salty. They were just right.

Website: http://duddells.co/ Address: Level 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong Weekend lunch hours: 12-3pm What to order: Anything and everything What we paid: HK$680 (US$87) per person

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our neighbour's a la carte selections. We can now check off preserved duck from our to-do list, but it was a one-time-only experience. The 24 hour marinated, honey-glazed Iberico pork belly contained a strange floury texture. To finish, the ‘Zeen Dui’ dumplings filled with silky egg yolk custard left an unfortunate bitter taste in our mouths. As Isabella put it: “Average food at astronomical prices”.

Website: http://hutong.com.hk/ Address: 28/F, 1 Peking Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong Operating hours: 12 - 2:30pm, 6pm - midnight What to order: Take your pick from the a la carte.

What we paid: Too much. HK$3,280 (US$420) for the Ao Yun tasting menu (7 courses)

Hutong - 2 stars

Part of the Aqua Restaurant Group, Hutong is one of 25 venues spanning Hong Kong, London and Beijing. This Hong Kong branch adopts the style of a Chinese tea house with antique furnishings. From the 28th floor, the panoramic view of the harbour is magnificent, set to the musical soundtrack of what can be best described as Irish flute folk.

The contingent of diners was diverse, including a lone businessman, a backpacking couple in shorts and flipflops, and a pair of potty mouthed Australians who did little to dispel the myth of an obesity epidemic in the land down under. A family of mainland tourists sat on the table next to us. With bags and children of equal size, the family maid kept the children busy so the parents could concentrate on their smartphones, uninterrupted.

The food highlight for us was the wasabi chicken; the mother of all cures for even the most extreme of Hong Kong Sevens hangovers. The level of spice was out of our control with enough intensity to rocket the diner out of the window for a lap of the harbour. The beef loin was succulent and tender, and the chilli cashew nut fish fillet so sweet. However, the tasting menu was not without flaws. It left us pining over

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Conclusion

The world of restaurant reviewing can be polarising.

Not everyone agrees with Michelin’s ratings. Everyone has a different taste and opinion, and relationships matter on elevating new talent. We were equally at home eating Shanghainese pan-fried buns in the shopping arcade as we were dining out on dim sum at Duddell’s Sunday brunch.

Similarly, the Butchers Club and Kelly’s produced marvellous creations that put Hutong’s to shame.

If, indeed, you are looking for glorious views of Hong Kong harbour, travel the lift to Eye Bar on the 30th floor of iSquare mall. Here you’ll enjoy an uninterrupted 180 degree view from the observation deck, reserved for smokers and vista gazers.

Overall, we felt our experience was further proof that Michelin’s guide should give Thailand the recognition it deserves on the world stage. Bangkok performed so well in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants this year, with nine establishments ranked on the list. Let’s hope that Tourism Authority of Thailand and the Thai government’s efforts to bring Michelin here succeed.

Michelin star facts

Coverage: 23 countries across three continents, including: Brazil, the US, a smattering of European countries, Japan, Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore and the UK. Unsurprisingly, the coverage is greatest in its homeland.

Country with most stars: France. Awarded a dizzying total of 600 in 2016 (perhaps due to the geography and resources required to manage a global guide, perhaps bias)

Star system: The first stars were awarded in 1926. The existing 3 star system began in 1931.

Most decorated chef: Frenchman Joël Robuchon with 31 stars and a restaurant in Bangkok. To put it into perspective, Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal have six stars each.

Who rates the food? Inspectors work undercover and are unknown to the chefs or other critics. Imagine an Inspector Clouseau type character adorned in a beige trench coat, trilby tweed hat and prominent black moustache.

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FEATURES

King’s Cup Elephant Polo - a Thailand treat

by Robin Westley Martin

Pachyderms plus polo players - a perfect pageant Elephants are synonymous with Thailand. The ‘Land of Smiles’ is home to about 3,000 of these friendly giants that live in the wild, with about the same number of ‘domesticated’ elephants living in villages and towns with their mahouts. Thailand is also home to a most unusual event that can only be seen in a few places around the world - elephant polo. The major event of the year is known as the King’s Cup, held in early March, in Bangkok.

Its mandate is to help elephant related charities, and the tournament is overseen by the World Elephant Polo Association (WEPA). WEPA came into being in Nepal, in 1982, and was where the first ever elephant polo matches were played, at Tiger Tops. WEPA has strict rules concerning the welfare and care of any of the elephants competing under its auspices, and oversee all polo matches played in Thailand and Nepal.

In Thailand the sport was first brought to Hua Hin (three hours to the south of Bangkok ) by long term Thai resident, Swede Chris Stafford, while

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he was working for the Anantara Hotel Group. This was where the first King’s Cup was played, in 2001. Anantara has developed the event over the last 16 years, and today it is one of the most successful charitable pageants in Thailand.

The King’s Cup Elephant Polo is all about the elephants, and everyone involved is passionate about elephants and their welfare. None of the competing elephants are captured from the wild, and are all drawn from the domestically raised population. The care of the elephants is of paramount importance. They receive the services of a team of onsite vets, their time on the pitch is limited to only 28 minutes per day, and they are given any vitamin supplements and or other medication that they might need. It is a welcome holiday for them from their usual trekking or other duties.

For the last two years the fun and games have been held on land

adjoining the Anantara Riverside Resort, on the banks of the Chaophraya River, the current home. Marquees, tents, entertainment areas, and food stalls spring magically up to create a carnival like atmosphere that attendees new and old never fail to enjoy. Wining, dining, and cheering on your chosen team.

On day one of the event held this year it all kicked off with a Brahmin blessing ceremony of the elephants.

They had been transported by truck from Surin, a province in the Northeast

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of Thailand, known as ‘Changwat Chang’ (elephant province). This was followed up with a traditional Thai dance performance by beautiful young Thai ladies, after which a gigantic fruit buffet was waiting for the expectant elephants. The tons of fruit and veg that had been laid out on trestle tables was made short work of by the munching pachyderms. An elephant eats about 250kg of food per day, and over the course of the four days the 25 elephants that were to play consumed 7,200 bunches of pineapples, 600 bunches of bananas, 9,000 sticks of sugar cane, and 12 tonnes of elephant grass!

Trucks were continually arriving throughout the four days to deliver food to the private compound of the elephants, away from the noise and crowds. Last year it had been noticed that the elephants were loath to approach the goal nearest to the river, and it was realised that the noise of the engines on the boats plying the river made them feel uncomfortable.

Therefore, this year a line of tents housing exhibitors displays was placed at that end of the polo pitch to mute the sounds of the riverine life. The private compound at the rear of the showground was where the team of vets - and an elephant osteopath from the UK, Tony Nevin - took care of all the pachyderms needs.

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And in the afternoon the first matches were played.

The mahouts, in general, do not speak English, and the players do not speak Thai, but there is an innovative way that they communicate with each other; the mahout wears a shirt with phonetically printed Thai written on the back so that the players can read these instructions, and tell the mahout sitting in front of him to take the elephant forwards, or backwards, turn left or right. There are six elephants on the pitch, and none of them have played polo before. Each elephant has both a player and a mahout on its back.

A chukka lasts seven minutes, at which time the players change ends.

But in elephant polo they also swap elephants. This is to level the playing field, as some elephants are faster, and more rapid on the turn.

But elephants are quick learners, and as the tournament proceeded the matches became faster and more fluid.

Day two was ‘Kid’s Day’, wherein parties of schoolchildren from Bangkok and further afield came to learn all about elephants at special classes, and had the opportunity to get up close to them. The young visitors included disabled and autistic kids, who were thrilled to meet the gentle giants face to face. Matches and fun continued throughout the day.

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The third day was ‘Ladies Day’, informally known as the Thai Ascot. As you might imagine Bangkok’s fairest were in attendance, bedecked in their finery, and showing off their stunning headwear. The dazzle they created outshone even the bright sun. Matches again continued throughout the day, and after an evening fashion show, the winner of the Best Dressed (and hatted) Lady was announced.

By this time the elephants had really got into it, and did not even need to obey the instructions of their mahouts so much. And when one of the players’ protective helmets fell to the ground his elephant picked it up with its trunk and handed it back to him without any instructions coming from anyone.

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It seemed as though they knew what was expected of them, and this made the matches even more exciting to watch. The victorious and elated trumpeting roar of the elephants as they celebrated scoring a goal even drowned out the commentary over the PA by compere Chris Stafford.

The fourth and final day featured live jazz performances, as well as the teams battling it out to be crowned champion. There had been 10 teams in the competition, but of course there could have been only one winner.

Some of the teams were not really expected to win, considering that King Power (champions of the previous two years) had experienced polo players, Casillero del Diablo had help from

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Argentine experts, and Mekhong had polo playing superstars Uday and Adang Kalaan playing for them.

But all teams without fail gave of their best, especially the fiercely competitive All Blacks team of Price Waterhouse Coopers, featuring Olo Brown, and Charlie ‘don Juan’ Riechelmann. The ten teams comprised 40 players, coming from all walks of life; sportsmen, supermodels, actors and actresses, businessmen, et al.

They come to Thailand once a year to meet up at the King’s Cup, and have become much like an extended family, or an exclusive club. They give of their time for free, and are bewildered how they can have so much fun whilst still raising so much money for elephant charities. This year 4MB was raised by the sponsors and spectator attendance of 5,000 souls, made up of both the expat community, and tourists. Which has brought the grand total to 1.4 million USD, since the tournaments began. And it has all gone towards helping elephants living in Thailand, and other nearby Asian countries.

So, this year, after intense competition, the final came to a

showdown between King Power and Mekhong. It was an exciting, nailbiting final, and in the last two minutes of the final chukka the Kalaan brothers - Uday and Adang, - of the Mekhong team, scored three times, thereby winning by 11 points to 10.

The new champions were presented with their winning trophy

by Royal Representative Privy Councillor H.E. Air Chief Marshal Chalit

Pukbhasuk, and CEO of the Minor Corporation, William (Bill) Heinecke, and his wife Kathy.

The King’s Cup Elephant Polo is now firmly entrenched as a ‘must see’ in Thailand …

Mark your calendar now for next year! … same elephant time, same elephant place!

Robin Westley Martin is a journalist who has lived in Thailand for 30 years, and has contributed his expertise to many publications. His first position was as News Editor at Business in Thailand, after which he moved on to Hotel and Travel and Kinnaree, where he was Assistant Editor. He has been published in newspapers in Thailand and overseas, such as The Nation and The Sunday Times. Robin currently works on a freelance basis, covering a wide range of genres.

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91

NGO

The Freedom Story

by Stephanie Naday

Connecting Thailand’s at risk youth to a life filled with more opportunity.

Imagine being a teenager again and not being able to afford the ride to school. Instead of finishing your homework the night before classes, you’re spending the evening wondering if you’ll even be able to make it to them. Once you’ve finally gathered together 50B for a songtaew ride, you arrive at school and experience trouble focusing by midday because you couldn’t afford lunch and had to skip a meal. Day after day, the cycle repeats itself without ever getting any easier.

Your parents don’t have any money to spare to help you out, and you can only earn a 200B per day by working on your days off. You know how important education is in terms of shaping your future, but earning a degree is costing you more than you can afford. You’re exhausted by the sheer effort of trying to keep up with it all. On a particularly tough day, a friendly stranger comes along and offers you the opportunity to earn thousands of baht per week by working in a bar. What do you do?

As either new or veteran residents of Bangkok, many of us are familiar with what working in one of Thailand’s numerous late night bars entails. Young Thai women are routinely recruited to either serve drinks, chat, dance or do more with a seemingly never ending slew of patrons - lured by the promises of good money and a better life. While some bar owners do follow through on their word, others are deceptive and deceitful. With little regulation in the industry,

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lines become easily blurred, barriers are quickly crossed and these young women’s lives can change forever in a single instant. With its reputation for turning a blind eye and an increasing number of overseas tourists visiting Thailand to engage in the sex trade, exploitation has quickly become a very real problem across the country.

After witnessing an increasing number of local women entering the sex trade in his hometown of Chiang Rai, Tawee Donchai knew there had to be a way that he could help. He soon met Rachel Sparks and Rachel Goble, who had been interviewing sex workers in Thailand in an effort to learn more about child exploitation within the country. After concluding their research, a number of common themes became apparent to the two women - including poverty, a lack of education and a lack of options. Touched by these women’s stories, Rachel Sparks responded by offering a scholarship to an at risk student and The Freedom Story was born.

Today, The Freedom Story has provided scholarships and resources to over 180 at risk students in rural Thailand in an effort to help them stay in school, pursue their dreams and break the cycle of poverty and exploitation. With a resource centre in downtown Chiang Rai and another in its countryside, the organisation helps mentor, support and educate Thailand’s youth in order to empower them to create a better future for themselves. In addition to the scholarships they’ve awarded to students based on predetermined domestic criteria, The Freedom Story has taught over 1000 teens about their sexual and legal rights since 2015.

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One Thai student in particular, Nue, has proven just how powerful the effect of positive resources can be. When she first came into contact with The Freedom Story, Nue was fourteen years old and living with her family in a rural village in Northern Thailand. Her father had died of an overdose the year prior and her mother was working in the village’s fields, earning just 150B per day. As the eldest daughter, Nue was expected to help care for her three siblings as her mother worked, in addition to focusing on her studies.

When it became apparent that the family needed more money in order to survive, Nue’s aunt offered her a job in a massage parlour in Bangkok. Luckily, Nue had applied for a scholarship from The Freedom Story and opted to accept it and continue her studies.

Today, Nue is living in the city of Chiang Rai and is on course to complete her Bachelor’s degree in nursing. The Freedom Story’s sustainability project partnered with her mother in addition to mentoring Nue, and taught her organic farming and weaving skills. Since then, Nue’s mother has started a silkworm farm and is able to cover the family’s rent with her business profits each month. She has also joined a farming co-op that raises organic foods and sells them at the local market. Through a combination of education, resources, sustainability tools and mentorship, Nue was able to avoid entering the sex trade industry in order to earn the money required to help her family survive.

When Anantara Vacation Club heard about Nue and The Freedom Story through our partnership with the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation, we knew that we wanted to be involved. In March, we partnered with The Freedom Story at our booth at the King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament by Anantara to raise funds for the at risk Thai

youth they support. As a company with its roots firmly planted in Thailand, it’s integral for us to empower the community that has so deeply supported us since our founding in 2010.

Join us as we continue to prevent sexual exploitation across the country and allow Thailand’s youth to make their dreams become reality. For the same amount that many of us spend on a cup of coffee or takeaway meal without thinking twice, you can make a significant impact on a child’s day life.

•F or 100B provide a student with transportation to and from school for a day.

•F or 200B provide a student with two meals and transportation to and from school for a day.

•F or 500B, provide a student with a week’s worth of meals and transportation to and from school.

•F or 1000B, provide a student with a month’s worth of transportation to school and meals.

To learn more about The Freedom Story, visit thefreedomstory.org.

To donate to The Freedom Story, visit anantaraclub.com/promo/avc4freedom.

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93

ARTS and CULTURE

Make classic music cool again...

by Agneta de Bekassy

These words are said by maestro Alberto Firrincieli from Sicily and maestro Jacopo Gianninoto from Padua, Italy. These are two musicians, who both have found their way to Bangkok.

I had the pleasure to meet Alberto for the first time, when we were both guests at the Italian Ambassador’s residence in Bangkok. Alberto is a pianist, harpsichord player, composer and scholar. He started at the age of eight to play piano.

He has dedicated himself to performance alongside the study of music pedagogy, proposing a healthy approach to music practice, against the popular routine based on a mere reading of the notes and on mechanical repetitions without any understanding of music.

During his years in Bangkok, he has founded the IKAInternational Keyboard Academy in Thailand and he is also the artistic director of “Bangkok International Piano Festival”.

Alberto graduated in piano at the age of twenty.

He also graduated in Harpsichord and composition. He has attended a four year course “Ars et Labor, an advanced piano and chamber music course with Christa Butzberger.

Jacopo is a dedicated lutenist, guitarist and composer. He has published a series of books of transactions of ancient music for the lute, Baroque guitar and Theorbo (a plucked string instrument of the lute family). His published work includes a revision of the Vivaldi’s Concerto per due Violini Luto e Basso RV93 etc.

Alberto and Jacopo met the first time in Bangkok 2008 and it was their huge interest in the “traditional European music” that brought them together.

Both musicians have more than 10 years of music studies and Master degrees. Today

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both are teaching at the Assumption University, close to Suvarnabhumi airport.

I had to ask, if they think that young Thai’s have a real interest in European classic music and the answer was; there are many Thai students interested in classic, traditional music from Europe and they seem to be very attracted to our classic music and our way of performing.

Both maestros are trying to explain and teach how people used to play and perform many hundred’s of years ago. Alberto and Jacopo are pioneers when it comes to using original instruments from the historical period.

When they don’t teach, they are organising concerts in and around Bangkok. Both are big fans of the Baroque music and enjoy playing with original instruments.

They have had several concerts at the Thai Culture Center, at BACC, Art Galleries along Sukhumvit and at the RMA Institute in Bangkok, to mention just a few. The Italian embassy has also engaged them on several occasions.

I asked if they have any dream place there they would love to perform and Jacopo said; we like to perform anywhere where people are gathered who understand and love music. Our music shall go directly into the heart of our audience, that’s our goal and dream.

I was also curious to find out about their favourite composers and Alberto has at least three; Frescobaldi, Brahms and Beethoven. Jacopo first mentioned Bach and Giovanni Maria da Crema, a lute composer and Monteverdi.

“Everywhere you go, there are always obstacles in your daily life, but not that serious that you can’t overcome them. ”

I was interested in finding out if they have been facing any obstacles here in Thailand and both shook their heads saying, “everywhere you go, there are always obstacles in your daily life, but not that serious that you can’t overcome them”. They didn’t even mention the heavy traffic that most people start to complain about. Both seemed very satisfied with their lives in Thailand and their music. I have a feeling they live and breathe music …..

Alberto is married to a Chinese Taiwanese woman who he met when she studied music in Italy. She’s a cello player and a singer and the couple used to play concerts together, but since their son saw the daylight, she has been more focusing on motherhood. They have a six year old son, who attends the Thai Chinese International School in Bang Phli who also shows interest in music and enjoys playing.

Jacopo is married to a Thai woman, who is a famous fashion designer abroad and Jacopo pointed out that next

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to his music, he is also his wife’s personal agent and he has helped her to develop her brand internationally and to manage her Paris showroom.

They have no children, but an Italian greyhound born in Thailand and answering to the name of Anubis.

Any goals and dreams for the future, I couldn’t resist asking; Alberto rapidly answered that he had fulfilled most of his dreams and that he is happy as long as he can do what he does and that he and his family stay healthy.

Jacopo pointed out that his goal is to make classic music cool again, something that everyone of every age will be happy to listen to or to play.

I am sure we will hear much about these two dedicated, music lovers in the future. Keep your eyes open and find out where they will play in the near future and see if you will find classic music trendy and cool like those two men do.

www.albertofirrincieli.it | http://jacopo.gianninoto.it/

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95

FOOD and BEVERAGE

The lifestyle shift Nowadays, we are constantly straddling traffic, last minute conference calls and pilates classes. Society's 'on the go' culture has led to the rise of time as our most valuable currency.

As our careers take off, our side hustles turning into full time demands and fitness takes priority, it leaves little time to squeeze in a visit to the grocery store. You know the post it slapped on the fridge says 'need milk', but you struggle to fit it in. What do you do?

It’s becoming a struggle to balance grocery shopping, meal prepping and caring for family members in between the hustle and bustle of everyday life, it also doesn’t help that your phone is buzzing every five minutes. Family is always a priority, but it’s difficult to condense everything down into a scribbled to-do list.

honestbee has the solution.

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honestbee is there to stock up on breakfast for your multi-generational family, even if one member prefers oatmeal for breakfast, whilst the other prefers a home cooked omelette. Just tell us what you need, we’ll get it done.

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“My husband and I both work full time, and we have three kids at home. Sometimes, my day at the office runs longer than expected, and I can’t go to the supermarket in time. Since I started using honestbee, it’s been easier to manage my time because I know I can always rely on my groceries being delivered when I need it.”

Khun Peung, 45 We got you covered. Simply log onto honestbee.co.th or download our mobile app, where you will be able to tap and choose this week's groceries even when you're hopping on the skytrain.

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FASHION and BEAUTY

Lady Diana: a fashion icon

by Alex Bannard

As the 20th anniversary of the death of Princess Diana approaches, Alex explores her evolution from Shy Di to the most photographed woman in the world.

When Diana Spencer was introduced to the world as the future wife of Prince Charles, Prince of Wales at the tender age of 19, no one could have every anticipated the metamorphosis from

the quaint, shy Sloane Ranger to one of the world’s most photographed style icons of all time. I will take you through the intricate relationships she shared with a selection of designers whom she entrusted to shape her style.

The first images we had of Diana were far from style icon in the making. Let’s face it few of us at 19 know our fashion style and can look back with pride at our teenage wardrobe. Factor in the ‘uniform’ most self respecting Sloane Rangers in the early 80s donned: tweed sweater, prim blouse, frumpy skirt and even worse shoes and the image the palace would have been keen to preserve of a sweet, innocent, butter wouldn’t melt princess in the making and the pages of Vogue were hardly likely to set alight. Fast forward 17 years and the last feature of Diana photographed by the brilliant Maria Testino did literally set the pages of Vanity Fair alight.

Diana’s engagement outfit was a simple two piece off the peg blue suit from Harrods, nothing to set the headlines alight. Enter first the Emmanuelle’s who are most famous for making her wedding dress but

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FASHION and BEAUTY

Diana was innately aware of the power of her ensembles and the message her clothes carried; Jasper Conran recalled when she was trying on new clothes she would say, ‘ What message am I giving off?” And as David Sassoon remembered, she was very aware of the fun involved and would often say, ‘The press are going to love this!’

The press and the public loved the way Diana embraced the 80s influences and rewrote the royal protocol rules for public dressing.

Her best remembered 80s outfit was created by Victor Edlestein, the ‘Travolta dress’ Whilst it looked stunningly and on first impressions, an elegant and simple silhouette, it was in fact beautifully intricate in the way the velvet was ruched which gave the garment such a wonderful fluid movement making her photograph dancing with John Travolta in the White House, one of fashion’s enduringly iconic images.

Diana’s progression through fashion simplified and her beauty and elegance shone as she embraced the unknown to most actually made the dress Diana wore for her first ever royal engagement with her new Prince: a black evening gown which drew audible gasps from admiration from the crowds and heralded the start of the transformation. Unknown to either her or the Emmanuelle’s Royal’s don’t wear black except in mourning. Cue the stylish Grace Kelly, Princess of Monaco to advise her on royal etiquette and warn her, ‘Don’t worry dear, you’ll see it gets worse.’

The wedding dress was designed to be the quintessential fairytale frock.

Diana knew the nation was deeply attached to the romance and magic of her nuptials and did not want to disappoint. The Emmanuelle’s, only a year out of fashion college, offered the budding princess a sanctuary from the frenzied anticipation outside in their tiny little London studio. Of course when she climbed the steps to St Paul’s Cathedral, the creased meringue had

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clearly not weathered the journey in the cramped carriage but the public rejoiced none the less.

Diana soon enrolled the expertise of designer to the Royal’s, David Sassoon, who recalls she had a very romantic notion of dressing but as he also recalled it was the age of the new romantics and Diana tried to embrace this influence. She once asked David to make one of her own designs so she could experiment herself but it was not her best look and she never made the same request again.

So began a makeover throughout the 80s modernising the codes of royal dress. Diana was indeed the first royal to wear trousers in public and to stop wearing gloves and hats because she felt it was a barrier to her getting close to the public. Of course she is well know for being one of the first public figures to shake hands with Aids victims without wearing gloves and help abolish that stigma.

rule less is more and won universal fashion acclaim. With this came an appreciation for the different looks her different roles commanded and enter in Catherine Walker who designed 1,000 pieces for Diana. To this day the Chelsea atelier still supports the royals, dressing Kate Middleton, The Duchess of Cambridge. She helped create a

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royal uniform for Diana that reflected her increasing charity work and her growing confidence on royal tours. This helped to shift the public focus onto Diana’s work in the 90s enabling her in many ways to be taken more seriously as a workhorse not a clotheshorse.

As her marriage was breaking down in the early 90s Diana also used her wardrobe to send out powerful messages of her increasing independence. Perhaps the most poignant moment being on the night Prince Charles publicly admitted his infidelity, when she stepped out in a low cut, above the knee little black dress that screamed look at what you lost or became known as the ‘revenge dress’.

Her final transformation was as she moved into more body confident, bold statement pieces as she embraced life as an independent single woman. Jacques Azagury created many of her most fabulous fashion looks, including the black dress she wore the night after the famous Martin Bashir interview aired, which was as simple as it was sexy.

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Just before she passed away, Diana decided to sell some of her gowns to raise money for cancer and Aids charities. Mario Testino shot her for Vanity Fair in an article entitled Diana Reborn in a much pared back look, no jewels, almost barefaced. It was electrifying and hit the newsstands 2 weeks before the sale, promoting the sale, which went on to generate over $3m. Can you imagine the proceeds of a similar sale today?

Sadly we never got to see how Diana may have navigated her fabulous 40s and cemented her iconic fashion credentials into her 50s. We can only imagine how she may have continued to push the boundaries and been inspired by the noughties fashion trends. She was buried in a black dress created by her favourite designer Catherine Walker.

There are, thankfully many images that remind us of her elegance and style and maintain her place on the podium as one of the world’s most influential fashion icons and most photographed women of all time.

If you are in London anytime soon, stop off at Kensington Palace and see some of these designs in person at the Diana her fashion story exhibition on show.

Alex Bannard and her family have lived outside the UK for more than 10 years.

Alex teaches yoga to private clients and group classes and can be contacted at masteryoga@elboliving.com.

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FEATURES

The changing colours of Thailand

by Ema Naito-Bhakdi

One expat observes how the meaning of colours and Thai people’s engagement with them evolved over recent history in Thailand.

Expats in Thailand these days are much more colour conscious than they used to be. During the official mourning period following the passing of King Rama IX, I’m sure most of you carefully and conscientiously donned black and white, worrying even what to put on your little ones. Even now, I’m sure many of us think every morning about what colour shirt to put on, making sure it isn’t too bright, all so that we would not appear to be ignorant, disrespectful foreigners. Doing so gives me the feeling that I have gained greater understanding of and unity with my host country.

It’s not just in mourning colours that the Thais are colour conscious. You’ve probably heard that each day of the week has a colour: Monday yellow, Tuesday pink, Wednesday green, Thursday orange, Friday light blue, Saturday purple and Sunday red. In the way that a Westerner might know their zodiac sign or a Japanese know their blood type (the Japanese like to look at blood type to explain/determine personality traits), the Thais know on what day of the week they were born and what their colour is.

I heard also that some Thais liked to wear clothes in the day's colour, but 15 years ago, it wasn't to the extent that I actually noticed it on the streets. Modern Bangkok appeared to be moving away from this tradition.

Then in 2006, yellow exploded onto the scene. It was the 60th anniversary year of King Rama IX's accession to the throne. The whole year was a celebration, one long

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expression of the Thai people’s love for their King. King Rama IX had been born on a Monday, a day of yellow, so Thais embraced wearing yellow clothes to show and declare their love for their monarch. On Mondays especially the town was painted a bright yellow, on the streets and in the markets, on the BTS and buses, in the shopping malls … everywhere. The year’s iconic photo was one of a sea of yellow cheering the King as he and Queen Sirikit held a grand audience from the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall.

Even after the official year of celebration ended, Thais continued to wear yellow. Yellow was the colour of love and loyalty and Thainess.

But then a new twist in the colour scene came about with the ‘yellow shirt’ demonstrations of 2008. The protesters chose to wear yellow as their call sign, declaring that they were driven to protest by their love of the King, against forces hostile to the monarchy. Yellow became a colour of political affiliation, and Thais who didn't fully agree with the group started to distance themselves and sought another colour to express their pure, ‘apolitical’ love for their king.

And the colour they chose was ...... pink. The King had worn a pink suit for his birthday celebration, chosen because it was deemed a lucky colour for him. Pink was the colour to subtly announce that one loved the King was was not one of the ‘mob’ causing chaos in the city and that took over and closed down the international airports.

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“This is how our culture has always been. ” The battle of the colours didn’t end there. In 2010 more colours took to the streets: protesters from another political faction donned red and started marching and occupying sections of Bangkok. There were some ‘black shirts’ too, allegedly dangerous men who were there to incite violence. And some people sick of both yellow and red shirts attempted to mount a reconciliation movement with a 'rainbow coloured’ rally. Choosing a shirt in the morning became a political act, and my wardrobe drifted significantly towards neutral colours of white and beige ...

Things have thankfully quieted down in the streets since, but compared to the days before 2006 (and up to the passing of King Rama IX), I noticed more people - at least in the local markets and in our Thai family compound - wearing the colour of the day of the week.

Did all these colour wars make people realise they missed having colours of significance in their daily lives? Did they miss the feeling of solidarity that came from wearing the same colour with other people? Or did they not know what to do now that the colour wars were in abeyance?

There are always people who want to say “this is how our culture has always been”. But having seen how people’s engagement with colour changed over the past 15 years is confirmation that culture is never constant; it evolves, it changes, it lives. Which is what makes it amazing and interesting.

And there's no doubt, those of us expats who have lived through these years will find it hard to look at colours dispassionately again!

Ema Naito-Bhakdi worked in international development and now aims to break into the editing profession, starting as editor of BAMBI News. She's mom to three kids, sings in choirs and as a soloist, and blogs at emanate28jpn.blogspot.com.

EXPAT STORIES

My Dad's 70th!

by Meghan Lynch

I’m jet lagged, my smallest baby is jet lagged. We haven’t slept in a few weeks. We travelled 8,500 miles, 25-28 hours door to door twice in 10 days. How? Why?Love I say, because of love.

My Dad and I are tight. Tight as in, I could sit with him and talk for hours. I seriously love everything about him, even his OCD tendencies. He makes me laugh. He makes me cry. He is one of the easiest persons to love. We enjoy coffee and a beer at night with just about the same amount of excitement but both keep it contained as to not let on how something so small can make us so fulfilled. I haven’t been upset with him since that time he showed up at the party I promised I wouldn’t go to, but went to anyway through a little white lie when I was a junior in high school. And that, that was a long, long time ago.

In February on one of my morning jogs I started to process that he was turning 70 on the 23rd of March. When I went thought it through and it played on my imaginary reel in my head, I started to cry. The image of my entire family being with him and me not there … I almost hit the deck on the treadmill that day. (Not the first time it’s happened, I must admit). I sent a knee jerk text to my sister, told her I had to come, and if Pete agreed and the kids schedules allowed, I would come with Ryker. She was, if my text radar is on point, over the moon, back flipping, doing her happy dance.

After weeks of planning, and over planning and too much time to almost cancel the trip due to worry and anxieties of leaving the boys behind I left on March 16th with Ryker to surprise my Dad with his 7th grandson, 7 days before his 70th birthday, the entrance to his 7th decade of his life.

Getting on that plane posed to be a greater challenge than I had imagined. I wanted with all of my being to go home for this milestone birthday. Although the aspect of leaving Brody, Parker and Camden behind as the trip neared closer became more of a stressor to myself and to Pete who had to hear my doubts and concerns. After all they are my heart now too. Before take off my heart broke into two pieces, leaving half in Bangkok with my older three boys and took the other half with me to my place with my family and Ryker.

Deep breaths and there I was, belted in my seat, with Ryker by my side, sending “I love you” texts to Pete and “See you soon,” to my sister and brother and brother in law.

Ryker was a dream on the trip. Bangkok to Dubai, Dubai to Boston. Only one major blowout, literally speaking. One in which resulted in a loss of an outfit and two containers of baby wipes. (I’ll spare any further details, but there’s a part of

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me that wishes I had someone to laugh at the shock of it all!)

Anyway, he slept on and off and while the car seat gave me a break from holding him, his preference was to be in my arms, cuddled up and warm. Luckily for him, I didn’t have 3 other boys to wrangle and take to the toilet, open up their food tray, have the overdone conversation of what was what to eat and no, you cannot just eat bread, nor did I have to adjust their iPad setting to another movie and tell them they cannot have Wifi on the plane, yes these are my conversations with boys under 7! This time it was just us two, Ryker, almost 6 months old, had me, all of me, and for those flights alone that was a slice of heaven, and slightly boring. I realised how occupied the older boys keep me, none the less embrace and cherish the moment was my mantra.

I arrived to my brother in law, Sean with a coffee in hand and some traffic from Boston to my sisters home. My

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sister was at home, preparing the surprise, her patience was wearing thin and had no time for the delay due to traffic, for the length of preparing for the trip had been a wait long enough. For me, while I was eager to get to everyone, I enjoyed the quiet time with Sean, my big brother through marriage. And to be honest, the traffic we sat in was nothing, I mean nothing like my daily life in Bangkok. (I kept that bit to myself, until now).

The vision of how I would surprise my parents was left to the wind. No planning there, with our late arrival they were sitting eating dinner was the last word we had from Heather.

Sean said he’d take the baby in first. He wrapped him in a blanket and brought him in, where they could see only the back of his head. My Mom so gently asked “whose baby is that?” and my Dad sat there trying to figure out what was going on (a video of this helps me be able to explain this to you, and allow me to watch it over and over and over)! My nieces and nephew figured it out who that baby was and I walked through the door and my Dad, well that was when he got it. He banged his hand to the table and said “What???!!!” and got up from his seat to greet me.

That hug, oh that hug was worth all of the miles travelled, leaving my other three children behind with tears in their eyes asking why they couldn't come too.

We spent the evening laughing, crying, and toasting, my brother Russ arrived and the unit, the 5 original McKenna clan was back together. Ryker so willingly went to his older cousins, Catilin and Cara and to Connor, my sisters youngest son who has walked around with a doll named “Baby Ryker”, since October. Now, finally he had the real thing in his arms.

He handed over the torch of being the youngest grandson off to Ryker, with a pride beyond words.

The shock, the emotions, the “how did you pull this off” conversations went on for a few days. Ryker and I settled in at my parents and nestled into their daily lives for 10 days with a few visits with friends and Ryker’s grand mom in New Hampshire. We mainly had quiet mornings, chatting over coffee, catching up and organising plans for the day, what

needed to be done, who needed to be seen. So often I would remind them, no plans, but you Dad, just to visit and spend time together. He’d shove me off, wanting none of this attention, but inside, I know he wanted and appreciated it with his whole self. Looking forward to that car ride together I know this because his insides are like looking at my own.

We wear the same shield, our heartstrings follow the same pattern, our blood runs thick and deep and strong. I’ve spent my life looking up to both of my parents. But it was my Dad I wanted to be most like. I wanted to be a marine, a fire fighter and even, work in a funeral home all at different stages of my life. I’ve looked up to the respect he shows others, the selfless way he goes about his life, the enjoyment in little tiny aspects of what this world has to offer. It’s a gift he has, one passed to me in some ways and one I hope lives on in one or two or maybe four of my sons.

Speaking of my sons, I returned to them after 12 days away and they had many questions about our trip and what was going on back in their summer home. Questions of, what did I do, who did I see and mostly the utter heartbreak that I saw snow on the ground and fall through the air. Which leaves me thinking … maybe they already do have the gift of my Dads soul already?

Meghan Lynch is mum to 4 glorious boys. Originally from the USA but now living in Bangkok she is very well connected and universally liked and respected by our Thai hosts and expats alike.

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ARTS and CULTURE

Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra

by Piyapong Ekrangsi (Bobo)

The Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra (TPO) gave its inaugural performance at the Royal Thailand Navy Auditorium on 23rd June 2005, in a gala concert for the International Trumpet Guild Conference. Over its first 11 seasons the TPO has consistently impressed and inspired audiences with its excellent performances.

Many highly regarded conductors have led the TPO including Gudni Emilsson, Claude Villaret, Alfonso Scarano, Jamie Phillips, Dariusz Mikulski, Delta David Gier, Stefan Willich, Jose Luis-Novo, Ligia Amadio, Zhang Guoyong, Alkis Baltas, Prateep Suphanrojn, Jeffery Meyer and many more.

Soloists from around the world regularly join the TPO for performances and have praised the orchestra for its growth and development in such a short period of time. Those guests have included Jens Lindemann, Eri Nakagawa, Lambis Vassiliadis, Boris Brovtsyn, Martin Kasik, Tomas Strasil, Reinhold Friedrich, Cristina Bojin, Karina Di Virgilio, Mischa Maisky, Yoon Jin Kim, Kwanchanok Pongpairoj, Christopher Espenschied, Dimitri Ashkenazy, Paul Cesarczyk, Serouj Kradjian, Robyn Schulkowsky, Lucia Aliberti, Wolfram Schmitt-Leonardy, Peter Bruns, Tapalin Charoensook, Ekachai Jearakul, Shyen Lee, Aiman Musakhodzhaeva, Henri Bok and Christoph Hartmann amongst others.

The first International appearance by TPO occurred in October 2009 when the Japanese Association of Orchestras extended the invitation to perform at the Asian Orchestras Festival in the Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall. In the same year the Royal Thai Government invited TPO to play at the gala concert for the 15th ASEAN Summit held in Cha-Am in front of 10 Prime Ministers from the 10 ASEAN countries

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Claude Villaret

and six from China, India, Japan, South Korea, Australia and New Zealand. TPO has continued its international touring with concerts in Tokyo, Japan and Auckland, New Zealand in 2012, Vientiane, Laos in 2013 and Myanmar in 2016.

On September 29, 2010, TPO had the distinct honour to give a command performance for HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej and HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn at the Royal Medical College Auditorium, Siriraj Hospital. In the concert the TPO paid tribute to His Majesty’s considerable musical talent. The concert served to honour the occasion of the 37th Anniversary of a special concert that His Majesty played for students at the Royal Medical College’s auditorium on September 29, 1973.

The current 2016-2017 season is Gudni Emilsson’s twelfth season as Chief Conductor of the TPO. He continues the work of attracting a loyal and appreciative following in Thailand, while helping the TPO to build a reputation for performing excellence. Its annual season schedule of more than 70 performances draws from over three centuries of orchestral repertoire as well as chamber, contemporary and specially commissioned new music.

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The TPO is proud to have the patronage of the Royal Thai Government and Mahidol University and enjoys a burgeoning multicultural tradition. The 95 member symphony orchestra is made up of musicians from more than 15 nations. The TPO has been active in recording both traditional Thai songs and new works from internationally recognised composers, and has produced 10 CDs of those works.

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2016-2017 marks the twelfth season for the TPO and will be highlighted by a performance of over 80 concerts per year including season and special concerts, as well as a performance tour of ASEAN countries.

Last but not the least, TPO would like to express our most sincere gratitude for the support of all our generous patrons and loyal fans.

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FOOD and BEVERAGE

Finding passion in the tropics

by Margaret Elizabeth Johnston ND

Finding some passion in Thailand is very easy to come by, especially when it comes in the form of a fruit or flower! The passion fruit and flower grow profusely in the tropics and Thailand hasn’t been left out. Originally from the Americas, it was exported to Europe and took off as a major crop in many countries for both the delicious taste of the fruit and the medicinal benefits, especially of the flowers. Both the purple, Passiflora edulis, and the yellow, Passiflora flavicarpa, grow well in Thailand and both fruit and flower, flower known as Passiflora incarnata, can add to one’s healthy choices daily. Thailand has both sub-tropical and tropical areas; the purple is in the sub-tropical and is less acidic, a bit sweeter and has more flavour than the yellow which is found in the more tropical areas and is quite a bit larger with a very strong climbing vine. Another difference is the purple has black seeds while the yellow has brown. There are other names for this plant including granadilla, maracuya, liliko’i and the Thai name is mostly known as Sow wa rot.

The vitamin and mineral content of the fruit is high as is the fibre. Vitamin C, ascorbic acid, helps the body boost the immune system against free radicals and flu-like infections.

Vitamin A and beta-carotene, a major flavonoid antioxidant,

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are essential for good eyesight. Vitamin A also helps with skin and lung protection. Passion fruit is also high in potassium which is a large component of body fluids and cells and also helps with blood pressure and sustaining a regular heart rate. Adding to this list there is iron, copper, magnesium and phosphorus. Passion fruit is 75% water. The fibrous part of the fruit helps with anti-cancer causing properties in the colon and in conjunction with the seeds, adds a “smooth move” to your days! Using passion fruit in many food items such as salads, yogurt, dips, spreads, desserts and drinks is a delicious way to incorporate the fruit into your diet yet the best way is always fresh off the vine and by itself. If the tang of the fruit is too tangy for you, adding it to your smoothies would be my choice, little or no sugar.

Passion flower, Passiflora incarnate, is mostly found in teas in combination with other herbs for relaxation, calming and sleep inducing formulas. The passion flower, and its leaves, can be taken as a tincture or in capsule form also. Some of the known healing qualities are; insomnia, muscles cramping, anxiety, high blood pressure, as an antiinflammatory and anti-spasmodic. The passion flower/leaves can influence an individual’s response to stress and should be seen as a way of building one’s ability to deflate stressful situations. All medicinal plants really need to be seen to be a “building” in the system or “growing”. Holistic health is not a “one capsule like a pill” will “fix” me kind of thing. A continued intake of medicinal plants is what makes them “work” in and

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on the system. Learning how to change your patterns to incorporate that herbal tea at night instead of late night TV or a sleeping pill is so much better for the body and mind. The habits you create for yourself on a daily basis become who you are. The ceremony of the destress pot of tea with passion flower/chamomile/hops/lavender/valerian/skullcap to name a few, can be very calming and meditative. Learning how to reprogramme your brain to get into relax mode is the key.

Some interesting information on the passion flower/ leaves is that it is being used to curb withdrawal symptoms to stop smoking cigarettes, marijuana, opiate and alcohol abuse. I thoroughly believe that by learning about the medicinal value of the food that we eat or drinks that we take, one will be more likely to choose healthy items other than destructive ones. Viewing “food as medicine” is a real way to begin to incorporate a healthier lifestyle and make you feel more in control of your choices.

I have been travelling on and off for many years and writing for Expat Life in Thailand since June 2015, and intend to keep doing so! I enjoy learning about all the delicious fruits, spices, foods, flowers and vegetables on offer in beautiful South East Asia. It is a challenge when I go out to eat due to all the white rice/noodles/bread and added sugar.

For me to have the widest range of knowledge possible of all the foods available to me here really helps me be able

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to narrow down my choices to choose what I know will bring me health. What can life be without our health? Not very enjoyable no doubt. So thank you for taking the time to read my articles, hopefully learn something from them or be reminded of something you already knew and then re-incorporate these things into your life. I wish you health, happiness and harmony as this month of June rings in a summer full of light, love and laughter!

Margaret Elizabeth Johnston ND is a naturopathic doctor, educator and botanical illustrator, artist.

Incorporating these skills into a way to educate the public about health and vitality is a way of life for her. Living in Malaysia at the moment as she slowly circles Thailand, she is forever learning about new health choices to share. Moving to Malaysia Borneo is next, while living in the rainforest she hopes to share some herb and spice information for our June and August issue along with her ever colourful paintings. If interested to know more please take a look at her website: www.mejcreations.com

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TRAVEL

Vietnam rising!

by Daniel Sencier

Only by visiting this country, can you truly make sense of what was, 'The Vietnam War’.

This conflict dominated the news throughout my childhood in England, but in later years had become a mixture of memories, blending together news broadcasts from the early 70s with seemingly endless war movies. Of course, had the news been less biased, or the films more accurate, a very different picture may have formed.

Even if you forget centuries of conflict with the Chinese, the Vietnamese forces had been practicing on the French for over a decade before the Americans arrived; many of their tunnels dating back to that time. These, mainly very young USA and Australian soldiers, average age below 20 years, were called Marines, but hey, they were still kids!

One can only imagine what it was like for them, dropped into this mountainous terrain, hot steamy jungles, thick with hostile undergrowth and all that was hiding in it! Their weapons were far more powerful than the enemy's, as was their air support and other equipment. So why were they beaten so conclusively, fleeing the country with barely the shirts on their backs in 1975?

Now living in Bangkok, less than 2 hours fly time, this was an opportunity I couldn't miss, the chance to hear what happened from a Vietnamese perspective.

Our guide, and believe me you need one, was a lovely woman called Hai. A very engaging person with a broad smile, we felt immediately relaxed with her. Our driver Tri, also a really nice guy, was to take us on a 220 mile journey that day, from Hue in the south, up to the old Vietnam north/south border, across close to the Laos border, then back to visit the underground tunnels near the coast.

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On the journey, Hai shared an emotional memory from 1976, when she was just a 6 year old, grade 1 schoolgirl. A boy was kicking a small round metal object around the playground, which sadly turned out to be an unexploded cluster bomb. It completed its mission that day, killing the youngster, and leaving her other friend with no legs. Hai had luckily turned to walk away, but still sustained shrapnel wounds; a small but lasting reminder to her of how fragile life can be.

"It gets safer, with less of this every year", she said, but it may take generations before children in this country can play safely again. Even today, schools still have signs, clearly warning children of these deadly devices, which can show up anywhere. Around 5.5 million tons of bombs rained down on this tiny country, more than twice the number dropped in World War 2 on the whole of Europe!

Did Hai feel bitter or angry with this? Obviously, she wished it had never happened, however, she looked ahead with optimism for those, like the children playing nearby, and hoped for a better future. "We must move forward, it's the only way", she explained with a knowing smile. As we toured the different areas, visiting small museums in the areas of conflict, it became clear that this was and would have always been a war that America would lose. The power of this small country didn't come in the form of weapons or ammunitions, but in the people's knowledge of the land and how to make use of every resource. Coupled with the commitment that every man, woman and child gave to the greater cause, they became unbeatable. People knew how to grow food, what to eat from the wild, what can be used as medicine. They could also build almost anything from bamboo in minutes, be it complex stairway on cliff face, housing, tools or deadly weapons.

The tunnels are extremely impressive, not what I expected at all. There are multiple exits and some tunnels run over great distances. They housed not only troops but entire

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villages when the bombing started, and these structures went very deep, so far underground the Americans even designed special 'drill bombs' to tunnel into the ground before exploding. Evidence of these and other bombs are seen clearly in and around every farm and village, some paddy fields dotted over a wide area. As I walked the tunnels, it was mainly at a stoop, the average height about 5 feet, and walls so narrow, both shoulders would touch the walls at once. The ground was slippery, as you can imagine walking on wet clay, and I needed an element of luck on the stairs, some 20 or so to a level!

There were meeting rooms, schools, hospitals and maternity units, where many young lives started, as others fell outside. These were formidable structures, very claustrophobic, but must have felt a comfortable haven when the B52 Bombers started delivering.

You can fly to Hanoi in just under 2 hours; at this time of year a cool 25 degrees or so awaits you. Give yourself at least 3-5 days, as there's plenty to see in what is now one of my favourite cities. We stayed in the Old Quarter, but search online as it depends what your interests are. From there, flying down to

Hue took less than an hour, and this puts you very close to the old north/south border, epicentre of those terrible times. From there you can either do a few short tours as we did with Hai, or spend days and nights travelling the old Ho Chi Minh Trail, which ran like a main artery through Laos and Cambodia, supporting the Vietcong at numerous border crossings. Though it's called a 'trail' it was more a general route of tracks, rivers and roads covering a huge area.

Many specialist tour companies cover these adventures, such as the one we chose: Vietnam has much going for a bright future. It's now the world’s second largest producer of both rice and coffee, and also exports peanuts, cotton, rubber, sugarcane and tea. Tourism is on the increase, which is great for the economy and so for the future of its people.

One of the friendliest countries I’ve been too. Vietnam, I love you! For tours from Hue, go to www.tourfromhue.com and ask for our driver, Tri. I also recommend you ask for our local expert guide Hai, or contact her direct: haidhgt@yahoo.com Tel. +84 919 248 234

NUTRITION

Gourmet corner from Arlene Rafiq's kitchen

by Arlene Rafiq

Despite the rubbles of war, I consider Afghanistan as one of the most beautiful countries in Central Asia. People are genuinely hospitable even to strangers. A cup of hot tea with cardamom is always ready to offer anyone.

Kabul was once a cosmopolitan city similar to other European countries but due to years of fighting, the whole country was totally devastated and left for nothing.

However, it cannot be discounted that outside of the city are gorgeous valleys, flowering fields, mountain ranges and beautiful people. Driving towards the valley, the beautiful almond trees flowering is always a sight to behold. The clean air envelops your whole body and give that spa effect. It's cold and breezy even during summer time and can go as low as minus 20 during winter time. It is during this season when Afghans prepare a most delicious soup called Aush. I learned how to make this soup when I first visited Afghanistan during the winter months. The aroma of the meat topping being cooked by my aunt in law was enough to ask for the recipe which she gladly shared with an added bonus of watching her prepare the soup.

It is a four bean soup with noodles and ground meat topping, a full meal in a bowl so there is no need for any accompaniment but as traditional in every Afghan table, bread is almost always part of the meal. The secret in this soup is in the mint. This herb gives the soup a delicious flavour. When the soup is cooked, it is served with rich chaka (strained yogurt) to make the soup creamy and light. It can be served as a vegetarian soup by omitting the meat topping.

The soup tastes better after a day's refrigeration. Reheat over a low heat; you may add a little water as the soup thickens further when it's cold.

2 teaspoons ground turmeric 1 teaspoon salt, plus more as needed 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper 1 cup chickpeas, drained and rinsed 1 cup broad beans, drained and rinsed 1 cup red kidney beans, drained and rinsed.

1 cup white beans, drained and rinsed 2½ cups fresh baby spinach, chopped coarsely 6 cups water, or more as needed 2 cups chicken broth 2 ounces spaghetti noodles 1 teaspoon dried mint ½ teaspoon ground coriander 1 cup plain, whole milk yogurt For the topping: 4 tablespoons plain whole milk yogurt mint for garnishing

Aush

Ingredients: 1 or 2 medium Roma tomatoes, coarsely chopped 250gm. minced beef, chicken or lamb 2 tbsps. olive oil or canola oil ½ small red onion 2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons tomato paste

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Procedure:

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large pan over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the tomatoes and onion; cook, stirring, for a few minutes until fragrant and softened but not browned. Add the meat and cook for two minutes then add the tomato paste.

Add the turmeric, salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper, stirring to incorporate.

Cook for a few minutes, until fragrant, and the meat is cooked. When the meat is done, set aside. Pour in 2 cups of water and boil. Break up the noodles into 2 inch lengths, letting them fall into the boiling water. Add the chicken broth.

Increase the heat to medium high just long enough to bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium adding all the beans, cook uncovered for 15 minutes until the soup has thickened a bit and noodles have expanded and become tender.

Taste and add salt and/or pepper as needed. Serve in individual bowls first the noodles and bean mixture, topped with chaka and meat mixture. Serve hot and garnish with dried minced mint. Although Aush is a winter food, it was perfect even during summer. It starting to become my favourite comfort food. Please try it and let me know how it came out.

Afghan cuisine is mainly influenced by that of Iran, India and Mongolia. From India came chillies, saffron, garam masala (cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, nutmeg) and pepper. Iran contributed coriander, mint, saffron and cooking with sabzi (spinach or green herbs), while Mongolian influences take shape in dumplings and noodles. But Afghan cuisine has a style of its own. Afghans have a penchant for rice and dumplings and they are popular but reserved for special meals as they are time consuming. Ashak is one famous Afghan dumpling. It is chive filled pastry topped with garlic yogurt sauce, spiced meat and dried mint. Each family or village will have its own version of these dishes. My version is the simpler one but equally delicious.

Ashak Procedure:

Ingredients: 1 cup vegetable oil 2 large onions, chopped 1kg. minced beef 4 garlic cloves, chopped 400g can diced tomatoes 2 medium red chillies, chopped 1 tbsp ground turmeric 1 tbsp salt 1 cup boiling water

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Filling: 1kg gandana, leeks or chives, washed and finely chopped 1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper 1 tbsp salt 2 tbsp margarine or soft butter 1 pack wanton wrapper garlic yoghurt

2 garlic cloves 1 tsp salt 1kg natural yoghurt one cup water dried mint, to serve

To make the sauce, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium high heat. Cook the onion for 6 - 8 minutes, or until golden. Remove onion from pan, leaving as much oil in pan as possible. Add the mincemeat and cook for 15 minutes, or until lightly browned and liquid is evaporated. Return onion to pan and add all remaining ingredients, except the boiling water. Mix well and cook for 2 minutes. Add the boiling water.

Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer, topping up with extra water if necessary, for 30 minutes. Reheat just before serving.

To make the filling, combine all ingredients and refrigerate until needed.

Place 1tsp of the gandana mixture in centre of a wanton wrapper. Moisten edges with a little water and press edges together to seal. Place on a tray lined with a tea towel.

Repeat with remaining dough and filling.

To make the garlic yoghurt, use a mortar and pestle to pound the garlic and salt to form a smooth paste. Whisk together the yoghurt, garlic paste and water in a bowl until smooth. Set aside. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Cook the ashak, in batches, for 3 - 4 minutes, or until they float to the surface and start to flip over. Drain well. Spread the garlic yoghurt onto a serving platter. Place an Ashak on top, then spoon over the meat sauce. Scatter generously with dried mint.

So, you already had rice, vegetable, legumes and dumplings. Next issue, we'll complete your Afghan table with two kinds of savoury meat dishes and a dessert.

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The headhunters of Nagaland

by Thomas Groves

In the north east of India, bordering with Myanmar, is the city of Long Wa which is home to the last living headhunters of Nagaland. These older tattooed men are surrounded by green forests prosperous with nature and who live a traditional way of life.

As a university photography professor, I am always looking for unique ways to challenge my creative works. A practicing creative teacher means better classes and output for students.

I came across an article discussing what was titled “The Last Living Headhunters of Nagaland” by an Indian photographer living in New York City named Trupal Pandya. The idea that headhunters were alive and their traditional ways of life still active captured my imagination. As I read more I discovered that there were some conflict areas in Nagaland with

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the Indian government and that the headhunters’ way of life was actually changing through development and government pressures, in some instances. I did not find as much information as I would like to online so I applied for creative research funding from Webster University Thailand and once approved started my planning to photograph Nagaland.

Long Wa is one of the larger villages located in the Mon district. Part of the village is located in India while the other half is located in Myanmar.

The village is controlled by a chief, or

as referred to by the villagers, the Angh (King). Half of the Angh’s home is in India and the other half in Myanmar.

Upon my arrival I was greeted by our translator and fixer named Long Shaw. Long Shaw is a warm hearted villager from Long Wa, who currently lives in the city of Mon, whose aim is to promote and bring awareness to the unique culture of his village. I was immediately brought to meet with the Angh of Long Wa. A pleasant man who has just recently taken over the title of Angh as his father had just recently passed away. Once introduced to EXPAT LIFE IN THAILAND

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than 6 heads would receive a neck tattoo.

I found that most people were open to talking to me outside of their homes and once they realised that I was there to document and respect their culture I was invited into their homes. As I started photographing many of these people I felt a warm interaction of sharing culture and acceptance. Many of these tattooed warriors would share tea with me and upon seeing my first images offered to wear a more traditional headhunting outfit. Even though these men where in their mid-80s and their last headhunting expedition was many years ago I noticed a great sense of pride in these outfits.

As I began to earn trust with people in the village, we started to

many people around the village my photographic journey became a reality.

The first thing I discovered about photographing in Long Wa is that everything is a nice long walk and usually up hill. Luckily I had good set of hiking boots on to help me with the walks to come. I found that people were just as curious about me as I was about them. When discussing my plans with Long Shaw, he had mentioned that approximately only 150 tourists pass by Long Wa a year and about 90% don’t stay longer than a day and a large percentage of those never get out of their cars.

Nagas, people of Nagaland, are know for being a strong tribal people and often are given a feared reputation amongst the rest of India. Of these people the Konyak tribe is revered as some of the most traditionally feared for their headhunting. Men were often encouraged to partake in headhunting activities by women before marriage would be possible. Men who took part in headhunting expeditions would receive a chest tattoo while men who successfully took another warriors head, from a rival tribe, would receive a face tattoo. Men who had taken more

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talk about the subject of face tattoos.

These men shared the great honour that comes with the face tattoo. It helped them sell their products at the market, most men were farmers or hunters, it helped them meet their wives and earned them respect from elders, the youth and the Angh. These tattoos could only be given by the Queen and required a big ceremony.

The tattoos were in the shape of a skull and to this day are still strong in colour. I couldn’t help thinking how intimidating these men would have been to photograph when they were younger.

As these elders opened up more, they shared their concerns with the amount of fighting in the world and amongst young people.

As I sit amongst headhunters I am a bit surprised about their anti fighting views and soon came to realise these are just ordinary elder men that are filled with wisdom only gained from life experience. The outside view of the vicious headhunter clouds the reality that these men were warriors fighting in their traditional ways. Often headhunting raids were no more than 10 men against 10 men.

As the region develops and outside religions take over these older men are in limbo between the

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new and old worlds. Their fears of the massive young adult drug addiction are valid and is the cause for much of the farming, craftsmanship and hunter traditions being lost. This being said there is a movement by key people in the village, including key headhunters and my guide Long Shaw, to reeducate the youth of traditional ways of farming, hunting and their heritage. Allowing the youths of the village to have the benefits of both worlds. Although headhunting was made illegal in the 1960s there is a tremendous amount of respect giving towards the last living tattooed men of Long Wa. I did hear stories that the last headhunting raid was in the early 90s but no one would share the full information with me.

I went into the jungles and mountains of North East India in search

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of the feared tattooed men of the Konyak tribe but soon found respected warriors in fear of a disappearing culture and that their stories would be lost. It would be a mistake for any visitor to think these older men are frail because of age as I can attest these men still carry a great strength and are supported by a very strong female counterpart.

My trip wouldn’t have been

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possible with out the support of Webster University and the amazing team of wanderers I travelled with, Yakov, Sam, Priyanka, Jill and the fixer Trupal. And of course our guide and translator Long Shaw. If you are planning on visiting Long Wa please make sure you organise a trip through an official channel as there are still a lot of anti government groups in the region.

Thomas Groves is a Webster University Media Communications lecturer holding his BA, MA in Media Communications and a Post Graduate Certificate in Education. He teaches photography, digital production, advertising and communications theory. He is an avid photographer who enjoys travelling around the world documenting the beautiful and the strange.

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NGO

Pad Thai Eyes

by Angela Stafford Photographs by Claire Deacon, www.7-olivesphotography.com

The People Eye Care Foundation (PECF) helps people with treatable blindness by providing free cataract removal surgeries, treatment of diabetic retinopathy and training in the methods of natural eye vision improvement, at remote community hospitals throughout Thailand where such treatments are not readily available. This may be because the community hospital does not have specialist physicians able to perform such treatments or the necessary equipment, or if the treatment is available there is a lengthy waiting period, restricted budgets and heavy workloads meaning patients may not receive treatment until it is too late and they have become permanently blind.

In most cases the patients receiving help from the PECF cannot afford to travel to tertiary level healthcare facilities where treatment might be more readily available. Without help from the PECF team patients in these remote communities face many hardships caused by impaired vision and blindness which may include the inability to work and maintain a living leading to isolation, loneliness, a sense of hopelessness and depression.

Since it was founded 27 years ago, the PECF has performed over 35,000 free cataract operations. This help has been funded by a steady flow of donations from Thai companies and individuals and from income generated by renting its highly specialised equipment when not in use.

The funds received cover the costs of providing monthly eye camps when a team of PECF volunteer ophthalmologist surgeons, anaesthetists, nurses and nonmedical supporters travel to the rural communities to provide the free treatment.

Each eye camp starts on a Saturday when the team travels by

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bus to a community hospital which could be in Chiang Rai province, Sukhothai province, Kanchanaburi province or Song Khla province in the south of Thailand. After arriving at the host hospital, regardless of the time, the team unpacks the specialised equipment it has taken from Bangkok

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so that screening and operations can start early the following morning.

The team works tirelessly throughout Sunday and Monday aiming to complete as many as one hundred operations, sometimes many more. On the Monday evening the team cleans and packs the equipment ready for the

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return journey to Bangkok the following day.

Before leaving the team examines all the eyes to ensure there are no complications and the patients organise a short ceremony to thank the local hospital and the PECF team for the life changing help they have received.

In recent years the PECF has attracted support from international community and business groups based in Bangkok such as the British Women’s Group, the St George’s Society, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce (CanCham), the Rotary Club and the British Community in Thailand Foundation for the Needy (BCTFN).

Kon Thai hai mong hen - กินผัดไทยช่วย คนไทยให้มองเห็น) aims to raise funds by encouraging people to make a donation to the PECF whenever they eat Pad Thai.

With the help of the Capital TV (Destination Thailand) team the PECF now has an amusing video to promote the project on YouTube and though social media.

In the video PECF mascot and helper Nicholas Bear, Australian presenter and celebrity Andrew Biggs and Thai heartthrob, Iang Sittha Sapanuchart are seen chatting as they eat Pad Thai in the Blue Elephant Restaurant. With the help of flashback, Nicholas Bear tells how the PECF helped him by removing a cataract from his right eye after he had experience blurred vision. He says he is so happy with his restored vision and wants to help the PECF so others can have the same treatment. He asks his friends if they can think of a way he can raise funds.

Andrew Biggs observes that they are eating Pad Thai and that the PECF put ‘pads on Thai eyes’ after the cataract operation - he suggests there could be a connection and so the ‘Eat Pad Thai to help pad-Thai-eyes’ project comes about.

At this point Blue Elephant owner, Khun Nooror Somany Steppe joins the group and offers to support the project by asking her customers to pay a small surcharge when they eat Pad Thai in her restaurant which she will donate to the PECF.

The friends also suggests people could organise fundraising Pad Thai events and Andrew Biggs is seen talking to the British Ambassador, H.E. Brian Davidson, who agrees to host a Pad Thai Party and Musical Soiree in the British Embassy residence gardens.

The PECF committee has recently approved a novel fundraising initiative which it hopes will attract global support to help achieve a long term objective to open a PECF Eye Hospital in Bangkok which will operate commercially during the week and offer free treatments to those in need at weekends and in the evenings.

The Eat Pad Thai to help ‘Pad-ThaiEyes’ project (Gin Pad Thai chwy

If you are interested in helping the PECF by supporting their Eat Pad Thai project, please contact Angela Stafford by email angelapecf@gmail.com or visit the PECF website www.pecf.or.th for details.

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FEATURES

Superwoman

by Ravit El-Bachar Daniel

Superwoman: A woman who fulfills her many roles with apparently superhuman efficiency.

Collins English Dictionary - Complete & Unabridged 2012 Digital Edition

I've came across several Superwomen during the time I have been living in Thailand, and I keep having the honour to meet more of them every now and then. I have decided to dedicate a regular section for them - to bring their story, give them a little praise, and let all our readers get some inspiration.

Pacharee (Nui) - An expat in her own country Pacharee (Nui) Patnoomano-Pfirsch, 46, says she feels like a nomad most of the time. She was born in Thailand, emigrated to the US at the age of 5, and came to Thailand at the age of 25 for what was suppose to be a one year adventure. 20 years later - she is still in Thailand, runs two companies (BNOW & BrandNow Asia), dreams in English and feels she belongs to both worlds.

“When I was 16, my little brother died from a car accident”, says Pacharee (Nui) Patnoomano-Pfirsch. “It was a devastating blow to the family. This incident had a profound effect on my life and how I view things. I realise how short and fragile life can be, one day you’re here and the next you’re not. One of my teachers asked us to write an eulogy.

I had to really think about the life I wanted to live. From that point, I’ve been reverse engineering my life. In short, I have the end picture in mind and have been creating stepping stones to reach it. It’s not a perfect map and there are gaps.

It gives me direction and inspires me to be a better version

of myself every day. My goal is to leave this place a little bit better than when I found it. When I exit this world, I would have left my mark.”

I first met Nui over 9 years ago when I just arrived to Thailand. We were both attending a social working mums dinner, with food, laughs and mummy talk, amongst ladies who didn't really know each other, but appreciated a night out and welcomed new introductions. I looked at her bump and asked 'when are you due?', she answered '3 months ago ...' and had a good laugh.

We got to know each other better after we both volunteered to the same organisation. I discovered she is a ‘walking network', she lives and breathes networking and appreciates her professional and social circles. That's why she probably ended up in marketing/ PR/ media. Being a good networker is a talent, but it requires lot of maintenance.

If you can make a living out of this talent - this is a great gift. And Nui is surely gifted and hard worker, juggling a demanding career with family life.

You are Thai, but spent your childhood and university days in the US. When did you arrive to Thailand and what brought you here?

“I returned to Thailand in 1996 because I always wanted to explore Asia. I had a contract with the US Department of Commerce, Foreign Commercial Services. It was a 6 month

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“Altruistic, smart, and genuine people inspire me. ” stint and I thought it would be a foot in and I would know if I wanted to stay or leave. After a few months of shock, I wanted to leave. My boyfriend at the time said that I should stay at least one year. His reasoning was that it sounds so much better on CV to say you spent one year in one city than 6 months. I wasn’t sure how I would sort out the second 6 months. The funny thing is that it usually works out once you have a goal. The universe conspires to help you make it happen.”

Where is your extended family now?

“I have family in the US, Thailand and via marriage in France”.

You spent your first 20 years in the US, moved to Thailand, married a French man. And you speak all those languages (English, Thai, French). Where is home?

When you sleep at night - in what language do you dream?

“I speak English and Thai fairly fluently.

For the French, I speak like a 8 year old kid. I belong with my loved ones. Home is where my husband and my two children are, and when I dream - it is in pictures. The language in my dreams is usually English, though it’s not exclusive. English comes first because it’s the language in which I was educated and I have largest vocabulary.”

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What brought you into PR?

“PR came to me. When I first started working, I was trained to be a marketer - a person who supports sales, though not the sales negotiation process. My role was to communicate about the product, its unique selling points and how it solves the problems for the potential customer.

Public relations and media relations are some of the tools of marketing and powerful ones.”

How did you start your companies BNOW & BrandNow Asia?

“After nearly two decades of living in the States, I figured that coming back to live in Bangkok would be a piece of cake. I thought, I’m Thai, I speak Thai; so, this should make things easier. Little did I know then, that though I have the communication skills and look Thai, I would have to learn to adjust to a system that was entirely foreign to me.

At first, I relied upon my extended family living in Bangkok. As time passed, I thought I really needed to get more self-sufficient and sort things out on my own. Simple things like getting advice on where to live, how to work with a contractor, networking to find the right job or getting tips on how to succeed in a cross-cultural environment were hard to come by. I thought about other people who might have shared the same experience and how we can benefit by working collaboratively. The Bangkok’s Networking Community (BNOW.org) was born because I wanted to connect with likeminded people. Founded in 2003, we organise networking events and was the first to organise speed dating in Bangkok. At first the group was focused on social matters and later it became more startup and SME oriented. We’re now a registered social enterprise. We host the Bangkok Business Connections monthly networking lunch and produce the annual Entrepreneur Now Awards.

My other company, Brandnow.asia, is an extension of my corporate career. For nearly two decades, I served multinationals as head of marketing and communications.

After our kids arrived, I wanted to go back to work but couldn’t find part time roles so I started my own company to allow me working part time. Little did I know, that I was opening a whole can of worms ...

We’ve have the privilege to work with some really fantastic brands, from startups disrupting the industries, unicorns to blue chip brands.”

How does it feel to be an expat in your own country?

Do you feel you belong more to the expat community or to the local professional Thai community?

“I am privileged to have the knowledge and understanding of East and West. It was strange at the beginning to be in this space. I feel like a nomad most of the time. I belong in both worlds and live in small space that exists in between”.

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“The human spirit and the coming together of people is a phenomenal thing.”

You are a very busy woman, and have become busier and busier over the years. It's not anymore the part time job you wished to have. Do you take time off? What do you do then? How do you pamper yourself?

“My family, team and clients keeps me busy. I really enjoy it. Sometimes I wonder when I my day starts and ends.

It’s a bit of a mélange between my personal and professional life. It’s always interesting.

To give myself time off, I exercise most days. Health is really the new wealth, without it - there’s nothing. I think of it as insurance and it keeps up my energy and optimism. I also take off for holidays and breaks. I am a believer that you can do it on the go and my laptop/mobile goes with me to help get it all moving. I enjoy a weekly massage and mani/pedi makes me happy.”

What or who inspires you?

“Altruistic, smart, and genuine people inspire me.”

What are you proud of?

“I am proud of what the team and I are able to accomplish each time we set a goal. This applies to the home and office team. The human spirit and the coming together of people is a phenomenal thing.”

Where do you see yourself in ten years from now?

“I continue to be an entrepreneur, business owner, inspiring myself and those around me.”

Your top tip to inspire other expat women in a foreign city?

“Find your greatness and strive to share it every day. It’s your gift to yourself and those around you.”

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FASHION and BEAUTY

Young Thai designers and students show their impressive talent on the “Bangkok International Fashion Week 2017” runway at Siam Center The Ideaopolis It is an impressive event in the Thai fashion industry when Thai designers and 36 leading fashion brands join together to showcase their creations as part of “Bangkok International Fashion Week 2017”, featuring a whole new dimension of fashion phenomena thanks to the cooperation with three top shopping centers Siam Paragon, Siam Center, and Siam Discovery.

Siam Center The Ideaopolis provides a significant runway which gives young Thai designers the opportunity

to showcase their talent as much as possible. This underlines being a centre to promote young Thai designers which Siam Center has been giving support. “Bangkok International Fashion Week 2017” welcomed two rising new brands including KANAPOT AUNSORN and VINNPATARARIN created by two designers: Vinn Chokkhatiwat and Patararin Pongprasit.

The two brands presented their own collections. As well as fashion creations by students from eight leading

KANAPOT AUNSORN

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universities. All of the collections have won praise and widespread acclaim.

A brand new rising fashion label KANAPOT AUNSORN presented the Sail Away collection, inspired by the story of a sailor “Captain Elvy” in 1943. The collection portrays the story of cruising around the world mixing culture, traditional art, new lands and cultures as well as the story of his beloved girlfriend. Combining a variety of materials, it features a patchwork technique together with an embroidery of flowers and sequins to add a delicate touch to the fabric.

The collection is like wearable works of art - featuring edgy silhouettes with functionality and unique style.

VINNPATARARIN presented a luxury street style collection that reflects original style with cutting edge ideas combining with smart simplicity inspired by the Postmodern age handicrafts. The collection features a technique of making graphic patterns which perfectly combine modernity and traditional methods. Fashionistas can get updated on the collections of KANAPOT AUNSORN and VINNPATARARIN on 3rd Floor at The Wonder Room in Siam Center.

Another fashion show, Runway Road Fashion Show No.2 curated by Jitsing Somboon, showcased the creations by fourth year students from eight leading universities including Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts, Chulalongkorn University; Textile, Costume, Garment and Fashion Design branch - Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts, Thammasat University; Fashion Design major for

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VINNPATARARIN

Visual Design branch - Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts, Srinakharinwirot University; Textile Science department - Faculty of Agro-Industry, Kasetsart University; Fashion Design department - Faculty of Decorative Arts, Silpakorn University; Fashion and Textile Design department - School of Fine and Applied Arts, Bangkok University; Fashion Design branch - Faculty of Art & Design, Rangsit University; and Fashion Design branch - Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts, Suan Sunandha Rajabhat University. All of them were selected by Jitsing Somboon, Thailand’s prominent creative consultant. This fashion show features a range of selected collections created by the 20 students during their third year education, all of which had never been displayed in public because they were works in the middle of experimentation - to create their bachelor’s degree. The charms are diversity and appeal of shapes,

Curated by Jitsing Somboon

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techniques and unexpected material selection. These works mainly show artistic value more than just a fashion show on the runway, and will be a prototype for creating unique beauty in future.

Last but not least with a special fashion show, FASH by Srinakharinwirot University, presenting 14 collections created by the third year students majoring in Fashion Design for Visual Design branch at Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts in Srinakharinwirot University. Their works reflect a concept of developing Thai wisdom, with various aspects, into clothes with creative and contemporary design.

It is another proud story for Siam Center The Ideaopolis after having playing a part in supporting and promoting young Thai designers’ talent, as well as encouraging students to have space to create and show abilities with no limits.

FASH by Srinakharinwirot University

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HEALTH and FITNESS

Be happier and healthier with the Busy Woman Project Women are always busy and are natural multi taskers. In today’s society, it is commonplace for women to take on multiple personal and professional roles - entrepreneur, corporate warrior, frequent traveller, mom, student, wife, caretaker, the list goes on. With so much going on, life can feel a tad overwhelming at times.

We have also encountered many ‘SuperWoman’ who dedicate their time to everything else, but themselves. This results in burnout or other stress induced illnesses such as depression. This is happening to people around us.

Trying to find that ‘balance’ in life or seeking for support, but don’t know where to start?

Sounds familiar to you?

The sad, unfortunate (but real) thing is despite knowing that our health should be of utmost priority, we often place our career goals and others before ourselves. It is easy to miss that workout and dismiss it off with a simple “no time”, especially if the people around us do not prioritise their health too.

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We started The Busy Woman Project because we live busy lives like you do. We want to actively pursue our goals, indulge in our passions and care for others. How can we do so if we’re not strong mentally and physically?

The Busy Woman Project was created for these very reasons - we are Asia’s community for busy women to live, feel and be better. Our mission is to connect, empower and inspire women to be happier and healthier. We do this by making healthy living (mentally, physically, emotionally) easy, efficient and sustainable for busy women, with a focus on health, boutique fitness and wellness experiences.

As we started as an online community, technology plays a huge part in connecting our community. We offer ladies an online platform to interact - closed Facebook group, social media channels, newsletters, emails (and yes, we do try our darnedest to respond to them all. Try us!) ...our journal also includes features on inspirational busy women, tips to kickstart and sustain a healthy lifestyle - the little things to inspire you to live better!

Aside from the online platform, the community, affectionately known as #teambusywoman, connects on the

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ground through sweatworking experiences across multiple cities in Asia including Bangkok, Singapore, Hong Kong and Shanghai. By curating the experience to include a combination of sweat and healthy refuelling, this breaks down walls and encourages interaction - forging new friendships with like minded women is possible and easy!

And since empowering fellow women is one of our key messages, we also place emphasis on supporting for women* brands in Asia, encouraging our community to do their part for women and consume with purpose.

By bringing together a community of like minded women, we want to create a safe space to make connections and be supported, and where people can easily share their thoughts on their health, social and business lives, thereby creating more time to take action. More importantly, to have the ability and health to be busy (in a positive way)!

Moving forward, we aim to continue providing more tools and curating experiences to simplify things and improve the lifestyles of busy people to become healthier and happier as a whole.

We are currently working on a mobile and web based platform to solve the problem of not being able to stay healthy while being busy and travelling - Broc & Bells (short for Broccoli & Dumbbells).

Driven by community, Broc & Bells will be your go to for curated boutique fitness and healthy eats. The discover portion of Broc & Bells is designed to help find curated boutique fitness gyms, healthy eats cafes and wellness experiences “near me” easily. We also encourage conscious consumption through highlighting For Women businesses and brands. Through our SweatBuddy matchmaking services, we will also pair individuals based on location, fitness levels, etc.

Create meaningful connections with peers and meet potential work contacts through sweatworking sessions!

Essentially, we want to make healthy living easier for you. After all, it’s easier to navigate your busy life and work towards your dreams when you’re healthy!

Profile of the Busy Woman project

The Busy Woman project is a free to join community for busy women living in Asia to live, feel and be better.

Meet like minded women online and on the ground through Sweatworking experiences across Singapore, Shanghai, Bangkok, Hong Kong and beyond! Do your part for women and strive to be a happier and healthier version of yourself today!

Webpage: thebusywomanproject.com Instagram: instagram.com/thebusywomanproject Facebook: www.facebook.com/thebusywomanproject/ Linkedin: www.linkedin.com/company/the-busy- womanproject?trk=ppro_cprof

So connect with us at: thebusywomanproject.com ladies@thebusywomanproject.com Instagram: @thebusywomanproject for women - women led and/or majority women owned, or products/services specifically designed to benefit the women community

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HEALTH and FITNESS

The fast fit paced lifestyle

by Ror Alexander

As one who travels a lot for work, it is important that I stay in at least moderately good shape all the time, and this can be quite a big challenge.

With a lack of time to spend travelling back and forth to an outside gym, and a true disinterest on focusing on “getting toned or ripped” that is not really on the top of my goals board, and if you’re a career based high performer or just love to travel, it’s probably not yours either. But, we do know that staying active and healthy is still a top need to perform our best, or get the most from our vacations, so we just have to adjust how we think about and perform our exercise.

Home workouts

Workouts at home can either be in your condo gym, or in your actual unit. As we all will have a wide variance of equipment, there is no point in going into specific exercises with specific tools, after all an article about kettle bell workouts is useless if you don’t have one.

For busy people short on time who don’t prioritise rock solid beach bodies, and who want to stay in shape at home, it is best if we focus on H.I.I.T. or high intensity interval training which provides a good session for your short time. This can be done with some light weights if you have a condo gym, or some at home equipment, but can also be done with only body weight. The real goals here are simple, 1- pump the heart, 2 - burn some calories, 3 - just move to feel good.

The 1 minute workout

A recent study released from McMaster University in Canada (which happens to be my old school) has shown that we can get an hour’s worth of exercise health benefits in just one minute using H.I.I.T.. To be honest, it’s a bit of a headline catcher as the workout actually takes 10 minutes, but with only 1 min of actual intense exercise. But still, 10 minutes beats an hour in my books!

How to do the 1 minute workout: 1. S tart with a 2 minute warm up doing an exercise that simulates the exercise you will be doing for the H.I.I.T. portions, for example. If you will be doing treadmill sprints, then the warm up will be a jog.

2. A fter your 2 min jog, break into a 20 second sprint anywhere between 80-90% of an all out sprint.

3. A fter the 20 seconds, slow back down to your jog again for 2 minutes. Then simply repeat this process 2 more

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times for a total of 60 seconds of sprints and 6 minutes of jogs.

4. Follow it up with a 1 min of simple lower body stretches.

You can do the 1 minute workout with a number of exercises, squats, step ups, pushups, mountain climbers, or any other big movement exercises you may like. If you have equipment feel free to do things like kettle bell swings or dumbbell thrusters.

Aiming for at least 3 workouts a week is sufficient for many people. Try using an upper body day, a lower body day, and a total body day for your 1 minute workouts.

Travel health: Travel like a pro

Travel health can be a little trickier as often you will reduced to very minimal spaces for exercise. In these cases the 1 minute workout from above works just as well. But, I also suggest you invest in simple, carry on friendly “Gym in a bag”. Mine is a simple exercise band, and a lightweight jump rope. With a band, you can do many resistance exercises, while the jump rope allows you to squeeze in some cardio.

For some simple band routine for travellers, visit my You Tube page (Ror Alexander), and you will see some I have created for travellers like myself.

Of course, with technology, you should try to book an accommodation with access to a gym or pool whenever possible. Also, when using Air BnB, you will often be booking condos which have a lot of stairs and can be used for stair sprints as well.

Eating of course can be another difficult task when

travelling, and I have created a “travel nutrition kit” that I always use. In a small container with a tight fitting lid, add some protein powder, dash of fibre powder, a greens powder, and some fish oil caps. Then all I have to do when I get to my hotel or Air BnB is buy some decent quality vegetable fruit juice from the local grocer or even 7-11. This will give me a solid breakfast boost, no blender required.

Follow some of these simple ideas, and you will find you can still get some pretty good results with a very minimal time effort or without fancy equipment.

Ror Alexander Fitness - Nutrition - Lifestyle Consultant www.roralexander.com Facebook, IG, YouTube.

Line: roralexander

FEATURES

Bullying …

by Daniel Sencier

The news is full of it: North Korea bullying it's own people, Germany bullying Greece, Russia bullying the Ukraine and the USA and China bullying anyone that's left to be bullied!

Bullying is part of life and considered completely natural in the animal world as a way of passing on stronger genes through time. The more aggressive males get the best females, who in turn have the stronger children. But the 'more aggressive' human male has to play a very different hand in a more vigilant society; a society where bullying is considered very 'uncool', by almost everyone.

What is bullying?

A country can bully another country, a bank can do this to a company or another bank, but most of us recognise it first at an early age, in the school playground. As a young Irish boy with a strong accent, I witnessed it first hand in its simplest form at the age of 5. The school bully, Adrian Webster, would come up to me and punch me to the ground, for no reason. Then all the other kids would stand around chanting and ridiculing me for a few minutes until they got

bored. Not crying and not reacting was the key to survival at the time, but becoming friends with the other school bully proved the best plan. I thought of punching back but I saw the results on others who’d had that courage, and believe me it wouldn't have been worth it.

Bullies now have to be far more sophisticated because we live in times where this practice is considered extremely anti social. So in the office, the bully probably won’t go up and punch a person, he may just wear them down psychologically, just picking away every day, almost a form of entertainment to him, but with a devastating effect on the victim. I say 'he' because bullying is mainly a male trait fuelled by testosterone, but I have seen it 'woman on woman' and even between the sexes.

Should we confront the bully?

Yes, for sure but be prepared for the consequences!

In an ideal world, you go up to the bully, explain the error of his ways, he says sorry, the bullying stops and you feel happy that you've confronted him. But in reality, the bully usually has an entourage, a group of people who like to be around him. Sometimes because they just like to take part in the fringe bullying for fun, other times because he's a popular guy and they don't see the harm in having a laugh, as long as it's not at their expense. The bully, more than anything doesn't want to feel silly or embarrassed in front of this group, he has an image to uphold, he also needs to entertain them!

So you decide enough is enough, you take the chance and make that confrontation. The bully, then naturally his whole group hit back at you ... "It's only banter, we're just having a laugh, he doesn't mind, ask him?" they all shout back!

But 'banter' is when a group of people are all having a laugh and a joke, where no single person is being constantly

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picked out and everyone feels included and comfortable with what's going on.

Bullying is very different ...

There are loads of definitions; I think this one does it justice ...

"Bullying may be characterised as offensive,

intimidating, malicious or insulting behaviour, an abuse or misuse of power through means

intended to undermine, humiliate, denigrate or

injure the recipient. Bullying or harassment may

be by an individual against an individual (perhaps by someone in a position of authority such as a

manager or leader) or involve groups of people. It may be obvious or it may be insidious. Whatever

form it takes, it is unwarranted and unwelcome to the individual".

So you've made the confrontation, the bully and the entourage have hit back, and if you're lucky they will agree that they have been bullying and agree to stop.

But, far more likely, you will now become the target! You have embarrassed the bully and the entourage! They feel ashamed, they know they're wrong, they're not necessarily bad people, but you have forced them to examine their own poor behaviour. They may not even like or speak to you again, but you've given them something valuable to take into their future.

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The person who was the victim might even come and tell you in private that he is grateful for you having the courage to do what he couldn't do himself! But inside he is delighted because the focus is now off him and firmly on you. If he keeps quiet he may now even be accepted into the entourage group as a full member, but he will always be a victim with this tact.

Yes, you can feel better about yourself, but did you really solve a problem, or just shift it elsewhere? Is bullying just human nature, will it always be with us no matter what?

Daniel was born in London 1951, the son of Belgian/Irish parents who settled in England after the war. He spent his childhood being raised by his grandmother in the Republic of Ireland, before moving to go to school in England. He is married to Beverley, who is Head of an International School in Bangkok, and they have eight children between them. After service in the military, aircraft and hotel industries, he retired to further his education at the University of Cumbria. He successfully completed a Bachelors Degree in Wildlife & Media, and qualified as an English teacher. Now in Bangkok Daniel is organiser of the ‘Bangkok English Speakers Lunch Group’, encouraging others to improve their English and explore this wonderful city.

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EXPAT STORIES

Losing a parent whilst overseas

by Barbara Lewis

Losing a parent at anytime is tough but whilst living thousands of miles away is even tougher. I was sitting in the doctor’s office waiting to see my physician on March 7th 2016 the day of my youngest brothers birthday when I got a call from my mother.

Normally I wouldn’t have taken the call because I was pretty sure I would be called in any second to enter the doctor’s office but God poked me and I took it. My mother was on the line saying “Barb I have some very bad news”, before the words came out of her mouth I knew what she was going to say. My dad’s death was not expected by any means. He had just been out for dinner for my brother’s birthday with my brother and his family enjoying a delicious steak dinner at the Keg restaurant. Upon leaving the restaurant he told my mom that he didn’t feel well and was having trouble breathing asking her to drive. She told him that if things didn’t improve momentarily she was driving him straight to the hospital and so she did. Many people have asked her how she managed to stay calm enough to drive to the hospital, she has told them she doesn’t know she just knew she had to do it. Fifteen minutes later when she arrived at the hospital my dad was under cardiac arrest in the car. They revived him, started his heart again but he never regained conscientiousness. The doctor then spoke with my mother explaining that my parents had agreed to a “do not resuscitate” order. She made the hardest decision of her life and honoured the order. My dad was dead.

My dad was a complicated man and he had complicated relationships with the women in his life: my mom, me and my beautiful daughter, his granddaughter Alyssa. My dad was not an easy person to live with. He was loud, overbearing and demanding to the point of being abusive but he was also hard working, honest, and had a good sense of humour. My mother suffered verbal abuse at the hands of my father her whole married life but she loved him just the same and she

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stayed with him, her choice for almost 56 years. They had a tumultuous relationship and perhaps because I was their only daughter and the middle child I was privy many times to the grievances on both sides of the relationship. Throughout the years I encouraged my mother to leave my father because I believed they would be happier apart than together however they chose to remain together. After a while I came to understand that this was not my business and it was my place to simply love them both as best I could.

When my father died I was devastated in ways that I can’t say. He was not a well man but his death was not imminent or so we thought. In fact, in the week previous he had just gone to purchase six more months of his various medications. My father had heart problems and as a cardiologist had recently told him was living on borrowed time. On New Year’s Day he had been rushed to emergency with very serious pneumonia and had a hospital stay of a few days. I was in Koh Samui at the time with my family and had asked my mom if I should fly home to see him but she felt that he was recovering very well and would be back at home before I got there. He recovered quickly so no need for the trip. I sometimes regret not going to see him. He complained often after that of feeling very weak but the doctors attributed it to recovery after the pneumonia.

It was always hard to know how sick or in pain my dad was because although he complained a lot and had quite serious heart issues he seemed relatively healthy overall. His pain tolerance was amazing which we didn’t know until when we were living in Kuwait and he came to visit us he had a massive heart attack. At the time we didn’t really have any real healthcare coverage - ambulance etc. Anyway during the day he had not felt well and looked grey. We just thought perhaps he was under the weather, at 2am it had become clear to my mother something was seriously wrong. We were unclear what to do so my husband drove him to the “hospital’ that we used about a half hour away. With my husband and my mother’s assistance he walked into the emergency room. The doctors and nurses were astounded and said he should not have been able to walk in. On that day he lost basically a third of his heart.

My dad and I had a relationship not unlike his relationship with my mother except since I was his daughter I didn’t back down. I have always been a great lover of higher education

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and believer that being educated in all things will move us forward in the world. My dad came from what some would say the school of hard knocks and so he and I had very different philosophies about things. Money played a huge role in my dad’s life. I think it is important but it doesn’t hold power over me the way it did him. I recently read a book called “Hillbilly Elegy” and it gave me some amazing insight into my dad and how he must have seen the world and negotiated his way through it. We never talked about it so I can only infer. My dad had limited technical training after high school but that came later on after he had left his poor family farm to find a job in oilfields in Northern Alberta Canada.

His parents were immigrants from the Ukraine. His mother had a grade 3 education but his father was educated and spoke eight languages. I believe he was used as a translator during WWII. They settled in St Paul, Alberta to farm. Their farm was subsistence farming at best and grandpa (who died long before I was born) encouraged my dad to leave and find work elsewhere because he knew there was no future in farming there. He left and found work in oil and gas. As a teenager during summer breaks to help provide for his family he would go work up in the lumber mills and could do the work of a grown man. He transferred some of these skills to his work in oil and gas. He learned more specific skills as he went along. As he moved up he was given technical training. By the end of his career he was vice president of a successful oil and gas company. Hillbilly Elegy helped me understand, I think, why my dad acted the way he did and why making a good living was so important to him. He was the only one who really did well in his family. His older brother ended up dying of alcoholism leaving behind a large number of children all destined to have very hard lives. His sister also much older than himself fared slightly better married a farmer and her children all farm in Northern Alberta but have to supplement their income with other jobs as farming generally doesn’t pay well enough to meet their needs. Dad was the only one who financially did well. He did not have the family support though that the author had in the book, he only had the family problems.

I think mostly he felt that when it came to his family their hands were always out and they didn’t understand what to value. I think he learned what to value as he negotiated his way through foreign social situations. His life on the farm, I am sure, had never prepared him for his life in oil and gas. My dad learned his operational skills well and could solve drilling problems many could not. He identified with these challenges.

It was the other things in life that he never acquired the skills to negotiate nor did he have the desire. This is where we diverged. I was more interested in the intellectual and my dad

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in the practical application of skills. Don’t misunderstand I also appreciate and have a list of skills but I now understand how my dad’s life and personality were shaped in his adult years by the skills he learned in the oil and gas field and how this defined him.

This understanding has helped me come to terms a bit with the loss of my father but the grieving process goes on as I know it does for my mother. My mother is a carer and now she no longer has anyone to care take of. She essentially has to create a new identity - not an easy task. She is also dealing with all the physical changes such as buying a smaller more manageable place to live. Understanding her friends in terms of her widowhood and the loneliness of being by herself. I worry about her constantly and can only support her from afar. We are good friends but I still worry that when she is really in trouble emotionally she won’t tell me to spare me the pain.

My mom asked me the last time I was with her if I had any regrets about my dad and I said only perhaps that I did not come to see him in January. Now I think - it would have been so nice to have read ‘Hillbilly Elegy’ and then talked to my dad about it or maybe not, after all he was a very proud man. I just think that it might have brought me closer to him. Anyway I know the last time I spoke with him I did tell him I loved him which was something I didn’t often say to him because it isn’t something he could say back even though I know he loved me. He loved me with deeds not words. I believe being an expat both makes us appreciate our parents more, opens our hearts so we can understand that they are human and make mistakes but also sometimes leaves us feeling adrift because we aren’t there for them when they need us. It is a balancing act.

I wasn’t there when my dad passed but because I live overseas I had the opportunity to spend about six weeks with my mom helping her with her affairs and that of my father’s something I don’t think I would have been able to do if I had been state side because I very likely would have had work to return to and have had to do things over the phone from afar. My mom is always welcome to come and stay with us for periods of time that she is comfortable with which she knows and appreciates. It often takes her out of the pressures of her life. It is not easy to be far away but there are benefits, again a balancing act. I miss my dad, as I am sure for many years to come I will.

Barbara Lewis is a regular writer for EL and a resident of Nichada Thani. Her insightful pieces are a real treat for all readers. We look forward to more pieces from her in the future.

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HEALTH and FITNESS

Pilates as a solution of my physical abnormality

by Tassapon Sutthidetkul (Tass)

A chiropractor pointed out to me from my Xrays that I have 6 vertebrae in my lower spine. He said only 2% of the population have 4 or 6 - either too compressed or too elongated a spine.

The question that came to my mind at that time was how to fix this?

An operation was not advisable because it could cause even more damage. Basically, I have to live with it and perhaps take up suitable exercises to supplement my daily routine but this cannot guarantee a long term healthy physical condition.

The issue with this was that I had always had neck, shoulder and back pain even just carrying out my normal routine. It made me think I had no chance of living the life of an adventurer.

My emotions with this got worse, I asked myself - ‘Why must it be me in the 2% category with a congenital abnormality’?

Throughout my entire life I have had to endure daily aches and pains - what hope is there for me? In today’s modern world with laptops, smartphones, poor posture and with them all increased risks of muscle pain?

It is true that I can do appropriate exercises to ease my body and muscle tension but it takes longer and is harder for me to recover like normal people do, the worries and constant physical pain give me little hope and increased the level of stress from what I have experienced - aggravating it.

There was a turning point in my life where I felt things couldn’t get worse - I fell off a horse during a riding lesson.

I felt powerless and angry with my own body. I loved horse riding; it was an adventure; it was about building a connection with another being; challenging yourself physically and mentally; and most importantly and personally to me, it was about being brave.

I felt numb when I first tried to get up after falling and there was tremendous pain in my inner thigh, upper body

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and hip muscles which lasted for months and has not fully recovered even now. I was told by a physiotherapist that once you had muscle injuries like these, they will always come back in the future. There is only the slightest possibility of a full recovery.

It was followed by a whole year of emotional pain, mental stress and of course endless physical suffering. I could not travel or work or do anything much during that period. It was hard to explain to people why I looked physically fine but was so limited in doing everything. It was not easy for people to understand why I was not working.

I felt helpless and weak and could not wait to get strong enough to live my life again.

After a few months of physical therapy, someone suggested Pilates to support and strengthen my muscle and spine condition. My body started showing signs of progress - I don’t have to endure so much pain and my strength was built up gradually. There was hope of finally getting better; finally living my life again.

It did not matter if I have an abnormal spine, I can do anything that I want. I work and travel and live the life of an adventurer and I enjoy it so much.

Pilates is not just about building the strength of your body or its flexibility but it is all three qualities combined balance, flexibility and strength. It is designed to support the structure of your body, sustaining your physical health.

My body is no longer limited by my own physical condition. Personally to me, this is freedom and a quality life: that I am able to be and live a fulfilling life regardless of what I was born with.

I have been doing Pilates for more than one year now.

And I can tell you this, I am not doing it simply because of the condition of my spine but because from what I have experienced with it, I will always make sure that my body is in good balance, strength and flexibility.

Never again will I take it for granted and not support it.

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SWEOR, Swedish ladies enjoying Prosecco and Indian food at Maya, Holiday Inn

Farewell lunch at Baan Khanitha on Soi 53

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Past Presidents and long time members IWC

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IWC event

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Dinner and farewell for Berit and Kenneth Radencrantz at the Swedish Ambassador Staffan Herrstrรถm and his spouse Karin's residence

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At the Italian Ambassador's residence, to launch The Italian Festival

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Songkran luncheon hosted by IWC

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St Patrick's Day luncheon hosted by IWC

Opening of the Polish Festival

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TRAVEL

Expat holidays

by Alex Bannard Being an expat affords many luxuries, frequent frustrations and both heartwarming and surreal experiences. Many think of it as 'not real life', which I disagree with: it is our real life right now. Mostly I feel blessed we have chosen this life. Our standard of living is undoubtedly higher. I believe the kids have a better appreciation and acceptance of their global community and their place in it. Of course time will tell if they succumb to the downside of third culture kids: they may become eternal nomads or find one place to call home and never move again.

One of the real benefits, especially in Thailand is travelling. Seeing and experiencing different cultures first hand. I see Bangkok is the gateway to South East Asia and whilst I debate the benefits of seeing the hardships faced upon the people in Cambodia and Vietnam courtesy of Pol Pot and the ravages of the Vietnam war at the tender ages of 6 and 9, there will be a time when the kids are ready and it is relevant. In the meantime they cavort on golden sands, visit temples, trek through jungles and usually bump into a schoolfriend or several back at the pool.

Summer holidays though are a different kettle of fish. We usually spend several weeks in the UK, most of it just me flying solo with the 2 kids.

This involves endless hours in the car, travelling as sensible as possible route around the UK taking in London, the south coast, the Midlands, the south west, occasionally Wales, sometimes Scotland and definitely Manchester.

The back seat is fraught with bickering, screams and tears, the occasional squeals of delight and many cries of 'Are we there yet?!' and 'I need the toilet.' and 'Where are we going?!' The tunes on Radio One get turned up louder, I start singing to maintain my sanity and then endure, 'mummy please don't sing!'

Bed hopping is another joy - not the kind you're thinking of although that would of course add a totally different dimension to the trip. Usually, in a bid to pack in as many friends and family as possible, it's a new bed almost daily.

The dolly trolley is packed and unpacked in the boot of the car with just enough toiletries, changes of clothes and PJ's to get us through that particular location leaving the enormous

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suitcase full of supplies and gifts tucked away in the boot.

Alongside the bottles of plonk presented at each stay.

Which brings me to the next element of the trip: being the eternal 'local celebrity'. No matter what day of the week it is, out pops the fizz, vino, salty snacks and deelish dinners.

It's heavenly but the waistband pops out exponentially. The kids get more tired by the relentless travelling and late nights and by the end of 5-6 weeks of this everyone is overtired, overwhelmed and over it. We need a proper holiday to get over it. Every year I promise not again or we'll rent a house; people come to us and of course the following year I renege on those promises and embark on the lunacy once again.

Last summer we escaped with a 2 week break in the UK as Mr P was moving to Singapore and we were moving house in Bangkok. We blitzed the UK with a family 70th wedding anniversary celebration, a few get together’s in pub gardens with the masses and a couple of days sightseeing with the kids in London.

It was brief and whistle stop but refreshingly simple and short.

On our return my heart sank as the house filled up with packing boxes and a sense of déjà vu descended, reminiscent of the house full of boxes when we arrived almost a year to the day before. But we packed and unpacked and shipped Mr P off to his new job and basically got on with it, like we always do and every expat family always does.

This year we are refraining for a UK visit entirely and will enjoy Bangkok when it is slightly quieter and look forward to my cousin’s arrival with her 2 kids and re exploring the city through their eyes, visiting the north and heading to the beach. It will be wonderful but as long summer holidays draw to a close it's no wonder the start of term is welcomed so that comfortable routines are restored amidst the every changing circumstances which expat living heralds. The kids constantly amaze me with their resilience and ability to adapt to such changes with such grace and dignity, whilst I flounder and wish life sometimes were simpler. Except of course I don't really. Simple, static, never changing surroundings would drive me completely bonkers. I love the never ending momentum of our lives … most of the time.

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