Dissertation - Future From of the Physical High-street

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Synopsis This study will initially investigate the importance of the physical brand space and the assets that such a destination provides to a retail label. It will then consider the modern day consumer by investigating their growing expectation from retail. In doing so this study will also assess how the brand space should communicate to this ever evolving modern day customer and introduce pioneers who are leading these changes within this practice.

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Introduction The dated method of providing customers with specialist shops for specialist products has evolved dramatically and is now generally no longer relevant within large scale towns and cities. The concept of an individual shopping destination such as a butcher and baker has now given way to the notion of facilitating everything in one place. This can be seen through the concept behind department stores, large supermarkets, shopping malls and most recently, online shopping. Initial developments of this movement were established in Paris during the 1920s with the construction of shopping arcades. Housing numerous shops under one panoramic roof, these arcades where purpose built environments to establish a consumer based economy. Built for the high-end upper classes with money to lavish on luxury goods, these arcades promoted shopping as a recreational activity rather than necessity. The arcade was a place to simply wander and be seen, allowing consumers to establish themselves as contributors to the consumerist movement and therefore become associated with a high social status (Benjamin, 2002). The culture of window shopping and visiting the high street simply for a day out was a new established activity. Flaneuar is the terminology derived by the poet Charles Baudelaire commenting on this social movement. Baudelaire states within Keith Tester’s book,

“The flaneur is the secret spectator of the spectacle of the spaces and places of the city. Consequently, sovereign spectator going about the city in order to find the things which will occupy his gaze� (Tester,1994 Pp7)

The context of falneuar has remained relevant throughout the years of retail with customers feeling a constant need to consume goods in order to build a representative social status. However, recent developments have consequently pulled consumers away from the physical brand stores, leaving society to doubt context of modern day flaneaur.

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Over the last decade supermarkets have grown by 35% selling a more diverse range of manufactured goods; one third of which are non-food (Portas,2011). Goods that were once only available on the high street such as clothes, books, electronic products and stationary are now bought in supermarkets along with a customer’s weekly shop, saving time and money by creating a convenient one stop shop. Superstores such as Asda and Tesco are now even establishing themselves as financial service providers and pharmacies. This allencompassing destination may be fitting for the customer however local retail view the strategy as threat, eliminating customer choice and healthy business competition on the highstreet (Steely,2012). The extent of such a situation has not only detracted from retail sales but so too from those specialised grocers. In 2004 it was reported by the Institute of Grocery Distribution that 2,157 businesses had closed compared to the 300 in 2003 (Friends of the Earth, 2005). This change in buying behaviour along with the economic downfall and increase in online shopping the current role of a retail brand store would seem to be under threat. In 2008, the Gross Domestic Product within the UK fell by 1.5%, formally resulting in the country entering a period of recession. This economic downfall created a domino effect resulted in mass unemployment as banks closed businesses in an attempt to pull back on money lending. With a lack of employment, the UK was filled with a nation who had no money to spend in retail. Consequently brand houses either went out of business or had to close and move onto cheaper, online platforms. In doing so retail has mimicked customer’s physical needs and desires into the virtual world. Piers Fawkes states, in what could be considered, a rather nostalgic view towards yesterday’s shopping experience,

“We must remember that people – participating in a shopper interactivity – get experiences, news, ideas, hear gossip, escape from daily life, find lovers, haggle for a bargain,” (Fawkes,2011 Pp1)

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However one could argue that this happens online also. If today’s consumer wants to “hear gossip” can one not simply refer to Twitter or Facebook statuses? To “escape from daily life” users may now consider the notion of logging into a social network and logging out of work Picture 1 Receivership Company: Game

documents. Today if they want to “find lovers” surely websites such as Match.com or the Plentyfish can be used. Furthermore if there is a striving need to “haggle for a bargain” the local market place may not be the first port of call as services such as eBay and Amazon are now

Picture 2 Receivership Company: GameStation

available. Therefore such adjustments make it hard to distinguish a need for a physical space. The decline in

retail sales has affected companies worldwide; most recently seen with large retailers such as HMV, which closed 60 stores across the UK or the famous US book Picture 3 Receivership Company: Birthdays

company Borders sinking into liquidation (Kollewe, 2012). In clothing retail, Sir Philip Green,

owner of the once prosperous Arcadia Group which contain Topshop, Miss Selfridge, Dorothy Perkins and Burton recently stated the company is looking to close around 260 outlets in the next three years due to a drop in sales (Kollewe, 2012) . The current retail decline is now evident within the high-street. A 2011 ‘Business and Innovation’ survey found that 1/6th of all stores in the United Kingdom are currently lying vacant, a figure which has doubled over the past two years, (Portas, 2011). Without customer investment, retail companies are unable to finance a strong physical presence on the high street. This is evident when walking through Glasgow’s city centre- currently labelled by Glasgow City Council as the fashion capital of Scotland, where there are a number of retailers which have fallen into receivership (Pictures 1, 2 and 3). Therefore one may question the cities’ £70 million investment scheme into

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residential and retail outlets on Buchanan Street (Gwynn, 2012). An interesting paradox when placed against the current retail downfall. This is now a crucial time for businesses to reasses their strategy and to seriously consider the future role of the retail store. Mary Portas; retail and business expert predicts a very different high-street within her recent assessment of high-street behaviours, requested by the government (Portas,2011) 1. Portas’s study acts as a facilitator for change in which she predicts a high street less about brand retail and more about local services to promote a local economy and social hubs. Elizabeth Cox support Portas’ view with her statement;

“We need to completely re-evaluate what we use our high streets for now that the age of mass retail is juddering to a halt. Our high streets could become places where shopping is just one small part of a rich mix of activities including working, sharing, exchanging, playing and learning new skills. As the hub of our communities, the high street could become the place where we begin to build a more sustainable world.” (New Economics Foundation, 2005)

Such a relevant statement questions the extent to which retail spaces are essential for the future of retail business and custom. Within chapter one this study will look into how the physical brand space can affect customer behaviours in-store. It looks into pioneers who utilise their brand space well and companies who have established a recent invested interest in creating a physical brand space away from their online presence. Chapter two highlights how recent platforms have changed the way consumers interact with retail and therefore are becoming less dependent on the physical space. Chapter two analyses these platforms from an economic and environmental stance in an attempt to prove the importance of physical brand space. Chapter three attempts to highlight what is needed for future retail space by discussing the need for an experience destination. Section four through to five addresses 1

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To view the government’s response please see; Cameron, (2011)


pioneers in the movement of creating experience destinations, using recent examples which are currently on the market. Chapter six addresses how such a change in shopping behaviour will affect the high-street as a whole and addresses the likely invested interest in pop-up shops in years to come.

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Chapter 1: The relevance of and need for a physical space in the future

“Even when it comes to the most sophisticated forms of technology, personality, behaviour, and emotions often have more of an impact on a user than screen-based interactions. Body language is tremendously compelling; we pick up on it faster and trust it more implicitly than any other language.” (Meyer,2012)

Following on from Meyer’s statement it is the depth of personal contact which makes the physical experience more tangible and therefore influential on the customer. The majority of physical communication is through body language (Pease, 2004) 2. Subconsciously we pick up on gestures which help us to build lasting impressions and a degree of trust towards an individual or - in this case - brand. Trust is essential in building customer loyalty and ensuring future investment, therefore the power of the physical space should not be undermined. Aside from trust, a physical retail space provides a heightened sensory field where the brand is able to engage in a customer’s touch, taste, smell, sound and sight. These factors are then controlled and manipulated by the brand, creating a realm within which the customer is placed and can only interact with, but not change or manipulate, (Milliman, 2000). Such factors are illustrated in Fig. 1 below. This diagram illustrates the extent of influencing factors on customer response within the physical space and therefore highlights that it is more than the display of clothes on a screen that brands should be concerned about. Each atmospheric stimuli listed by Muilliman has the ability to influence customer behaviour within the physical retail space and therefore should not be overlooked.

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For more continued reading on understanding body language please see;

Quality Improvement Agency (2008) and Raam,(2007)

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Figure 1 The Influence of Retail Atmospherics, Muilliman (2000) Page 196

The effect of music within the retail environment, labelled as a “general interior factor – sound” within Figure 1, is the most studied of all input factors. Milliman conducts a concise review of the current available critical data, to which he concludes that music does in fact have a strong influence on sales, arousal, general perception of products on display and customer behaviour in a retail environment (Milliman, 2000). His reviews also concludes that the use of light does influence the handling of objects and products within the store however does not directly influence or increase spending. Recent reviews on odour are currently revealing that it is more the presence than the absence of a scent that affects behaviour but less to do with

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the smell itself, (Milliman, 2000) 3. With such influencing factors, a scene is then set in which the customer plays a role by engaging in the purchasing process. Even if attempted, such strong physical influences influence cannot be attained with the online experience. Some stores, such as Urban Outfitters, have begun to play musical tracks online that customers can listen to while visiting the website however unlike the physical space, this only addresses one of the five human senses. In the physical store, retailers have the opportunity to tailor every aspect relating to the product, the lifestyle, the cultural “meme” (Thomson,2008) which the brand is portraying to the world and consumer. With such a strong identity produced in-store, customers tend to establish a sense of belonging and ownership, building a deep emotional connection and loyalty to the brand. The method of arranging these atmospheric stimuli to replicate the brand in its physical form has been labelled, “brandscapping” by Einkaufswelten (Einkaufswelten,2002). In this, the power of brandscapping creates more of a destination than a space, where customers seek inspiration and release, providing an attractive antidote to the online experience.

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Further reading on in-store environments can be found at: Baker, (1994)

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A prime example of strong brandscapping is Hollister - the American high end retail brand portraying an image of young Californian fun. True to the brand identity, each shop exterior is made to resemble that of a Californian beach house, (Picture 4) complete with palm trees and lounge chair on entry. Fashion models patrol the retail space asking customers on entry “hey, how’s it going?,” in a rehearsed yet almost genuine tone-of-voice of. Music is played loudly –usually current pop chart hits which aims to attract and cater for the young, main stream market. Large TV screens show blissful beach shores to create a visual reference and place context to the brand lifestyle, (Picture 4). Hollister perfume is sprayed regularly in store, flooding the space with a brand scent, allowing the brand to reach customers on a subconscious level. Furthermore dim lighting is used throughout the space almost disorientating the customer, creating a beautiful irony as it is near impossible to see the collection of clothes on sale, (Picture 4). With such a distinct presence, Hollister inspire strong love or hate response from the public. Yet by manipulating such stimuli, Hollister successfully transport the customer away from the high-street and into a fully fabricated and manufactured brand space. The power of such a physical realm has recently been Picture 4 Hollister Brand Store, Interior and Exterior

addressed by Bombay Sapphire company who are

currently planning their first physical brand presence. After thirty years of existing in the creative minds of brand developers and advertisers, the Gin company is currently setting out

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plans for a bricks and motor location, bringing to life the essence of who the brand is and what it stands for. The brand has chosen a rural area in Hampshire, reflecting the history of the label. John Burke, Global Category Director states during a Daily Motion interview addressing the project,

“we wanted to build something that has a deep sense of legacy, this was perfect for the brand. Bombay needs a home…a place you can visit and live and breathe the brand’s sensory signatures”. (Multi Vu,2011)

Similar to Bombay Sapphire, Amazon too is in the midst of planning a future retail strategy. Founded in 1995 and established in 1996 the multimillion dollar company was one of the first online retailers and today one of the most successful (Bezo, 1997). Even so, the company has expressed an interest in creating a physical store. Their projection is to be built in Seattle, acting not so much as a sensory destination but more as a retail space for users to test and interact with technological products. The need comes from Amazon’s supposed lack of physical destination for customers,

“Vast majority of customers want to take products for a test drive – physical spaces are incredibly necessary and for that reason alone they are going nowhere”. (Reisinger,2012)

The direct interaction with the product is yet another element which the physical space provides. With the online experience it is only once the customer has parted with his/her money and received the delivery package days later that the product can tried on or tested. If the product is a not suitable the customer has then wasted precious time, money and now left with the hassle with returning the goods to begin their search all over again. It is evident that the physical brand space provides multiple benefits for the brand and consumer. Regardless,

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online platforms such as brand websites, social networks and blogs may still cause us to doubt the extent of relevance within the future. Chapter 2: Today’s Customer, how they shop and understandings their needs.

Online retail has created a global market. Carter states

“The ‘borderless’, growing availability and spread of communication and transportation technologies are making consumers more homogeneous and foreign markets more accessible,” (Carter, 2009 pp198).

The customer is placed at the heart of such a market, exponentially evolving customers’ demands. Generation X refers to the demographic cohort born in the late 1970s to early 1980s. Over recent years, this generation of retail customer has become more selfempowered with the variety of online services available. This has updated the terminology for the new generation of customer into “Generation Y” - jargon which is being used more consistently in today’s literature. Generation Y is often labelled as the “connected customer” or the “customer as god”, all knowing and in control (Geddes, 2011). No longer is it essential for customer to trudge from store to store in search of an obscure product. Online Search engines such as Google Shopping has made Picture 5 http://citygirlsfashionbox.blogspot.co.uk/

it possible for users to simply type in specific products

with refined results being delivered back to them in milliseconds. With online services, customers have adapted their consumer behaviours to become more critical. They are now able to evaluate, asses and compare before purchase, ensuring they have found the best deal. (Picture 5 of a consumer‘s ‘fashion blog’ displays this). Customer

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reviews can be used by potential buyers to view opinions and product knowledge from previous existing users. Such empowerment affords the customer to truthfully digest the brand, allowing them to understand flaws as well as the assets which the product holds. Prior to such platforms, customers solely relied on the biased brand marketing pitches which naturally overlooked the negative aspects of the product. Highlighted by Samberg in his 2012 article, ‘Top 10 personal branding quotes from people who made it,’ Jeff Bezo’s (founder of Amazon) statement stands true, it is true that, “your brand is what is said

about it when you are not in the room,” (Sundberg,2012). Such a statement is clearly demonstrated within the Facebook Picture 6 www.facebook/calumcevirlyprofile

status of an Apple customer expressing

how impressed they were with the customer service to their social network, displayed in Picture 6. With customers publically galvanising in critical responses, it is now more important than ever for brands to deliver sound products and ensure constant, high levels of improvement as a product which possesses an aspect worth criticising will most certainly be addressed within the voices of Generation Y. Companies should learn from reviews and view the negative responses more as first-hand feedback for improvement into the organisation. This would create a sustainable cycle of development and improvement. Social network sites such as Facebook can also be used to view trending undiscovered yet “liked” designers and retail brands in which friends have demonstrated an interest. Such undiscovered brands may be considered rare and so high in desirability. In this sense the social aspect of shopping a customer would experience when shopping in town with a friend is mimicked within online social network platforms. The uses of brand websites expose customers to a personal shopping experience. Website operate on a set of logistics and

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equations to build up unique customer profile; monitoring items viewed, purchased goods as well as any added comments. Such profiles are then used in marketing techniques and brand improvement to trigger a likely purchase. Ever signed into a website with recommended products that just happen to be your size and style? This naturally engages the user giving them a sense of belonging and a personal relationship with the online brand. As well as the greater level of product knowledge and personal experience the Generation Y customer has high set expectations in getting more value for their money. Discount websites such as Wowcher, Groupon and LivingSocial make buying a bargain easy and accessible to users, more so than previously experienced. Books on Amazon or Ebay can be shipped from China, across the Pacific Ocean and delivered straight to the customer’s door in the UK in just over one week for as little as £00.01 (plus postage and packaging). Furthermore 65% of customers delay a purchase in store and buy elsewhere if they find a cheaper deal online (McKinsey and Company, 2012). This demand for a better deal has been spurred on quicker by the economic meltdown. The personal disposable income (PDI) being spent on short term investments, such as retail in the UK, decreased from 44% in 1988 to just 40% within 2000, (Birch et al, 2000). As well as social and economic empowerment for customers, the virtual experience benefits environmental and economic sustainability. Placed in perspective, the level of dematerialization which online platforms have contributed to over the past three years tends to outweigh the extent of waste they produce (Souter,2012). Through the use of online platforms, an abundance of information regarding product and service can be conveniently delivered to the consumer without the need for print outs or locating in open space. One graphic and web design firm which fully supports this movement are IJdesign claiming to provide clients with an environmentally friendly options for printing and website design, (ijdesign.com).

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However the on-going evolution of online platforms, fuelled by consumerism consequently generates high disposal of terminal devices such as mobile phones and laptops. These devices are high contributors to toxic waste and therefore environmental pollution (Souter,2012) 4. In addition the internet obliterates the notion of a local purchase by sustaining a global, accessible market. This results in the transatlantic delivery of goods, contributing to fuel emissions. Buying a book online which is then shipped to its recipient contributes to 10% less greenhouse gases used – yet this is only applicable if the deliver address is under 750miles, (Yurko, 2000). From the customers’ perspective it is currently irrelevant to consider factors such as where their purchase is shipped from or how much delivery will contribute to atmospheric pollution and greenhouse gases, especially when they are receiving such a bargain deal.

“The fact that you aren't going to the bookstore doesn't mean there's no environmental impact. In some cases, it's much worse." (Yurko, 2000)

If combating issues of pollution caused by the transportation of such goods poses impossible, one may suggest retailers should encourage customers to become more conscious on the origin of their purchases – after all, marketing companies successfully did so with Fair-Trade. It is common ground for companies to be concerned with their income and turnover on a cellular level; however we must start to look more holistically. There is a growing threat that if the majority of companies converted to an online presence, this could create an uneven balance within the job market. China’s online retail market has been growing by 78% annually since 2006 and predicted to reach $81 billion within the next five years, illustrating an invested attraction to online the platform (Shabat et al, 2012). With high turn- over, low start-up costs and a reduced need for large workforces online retail is extremely attractive from a business stance. In theory, profits made are to be re-invested in creating a competitive customer-

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For continued reading on this topic see also: Tehrani S. M. and Karbassi A. R. (2005)

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focused service, not into expanding the staff base (Birch et al,2000). If this strategy becomes unanimous in online business, such companies will consequently limit job broad opportunities and therefore encourage mass unemployment. Therefore the expanse of online retail may need to become limited to ensure the provision of jobs and a sustainable economy. At this stage of change it is crucial to communicate the importance of a physical space to companies ensuring the global economy avoids an uneven balance and further economic downturn. However currently it is unclear how heavy on the scale each factor must lie in order to effectively cater to the needs of Generation Y and maintain a sustainable economy. This lack of certainty is also demonstrated within consumer trends. Mary Potas highlights that sales via mobile phones have increased by 500% in the past two years (Portas,2011). This invested interest in online sales is also illustrated by the BBC report, titled “Mega Monday; Busiest online shopping day of the year” demonstrating an annual record-high of internet sales on Monday the 3rd of December 2012 (Simmons,2012). Yet contradictory to what these reports say, Deliotte’s research in multi-channel consumer survey released in 2011, 78% of customers still prefer to buy within the physical space as opposed to online (Geddes, 2011). It is evident that we are at the climax of retail experience change where we are seeing the marriage of both elements within the physical retail environment. Online platforms are now being utilised in-store via personal mobile devices. Amongst them are interfaces such as; Text, Watsapp, E-Mail, Black Berry Messenger (BBM)’, Ping, Tweet, Facebook, I-message and Call, to gain strong opinion and insight on their possible purchase. However one should question the reason for customers to use their personal mobile phone for such interaction. Currently it would appear that this is the only resource they have which allows such access in-store, however brands should recognise this as an opportunity for innovation. It would seem that retailers are failing to see the potential in maximizing their brand experience by using the physical environment in association with the online resource. Surly online shopping, which is open to the public 24/7 should, to some

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degree compliment the physical store opening hours. If a website interaction can address returning customers by their first name, remember previous bought items as well as recommend products; the friendly sales assistant in store can do the same. With technology rapidly encroaching and demanding a reassessment of the retail experience, it is the possible lack of understanding on how the two forms could work together that is stinting such growth. High end brands have adopted a degree of snobbery towards the online experience in-store with few viewing it as a platform which does not resonate with quality and prestige. Patrizo Bertellim, Chief Executive Officer of the fashion retailer Prada states in a Guardian Newspaper Article , “we are concerned about compromising our image by using a channel where second hand cars and books are sold,” (Morley,2012)

This dated and naive view towards internet retail is one which can be easily opposed by the success of Burbery’s new flagship store which attempts to merge the digital and physical brand space. Such a high end fashion house has successfully adapted while maintaining a prestige and elite status. If existing physical stores do not recognise and adapt with the changing customer demands, they will - similar to recent retail brands – crumble. Mary Portas addresses this within her 2011 high-street review document when she states, “we are in a new age of consumption and the high street needs to adapt,” (Portas,2011, Pp 4).

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Chapter 3 The growing importance f experience destinations

“wanting to go into town is different from wanting or needing to shop. It is about an experience, it is about sociality and relaxation, about creativity and being part of something you cannot get at home or at work,” (Gehl, 2010, pp68)

It has been anticipated by a number of scholars that future objective for physical retail spaces is to create experience destinations 5. These must be thriving environments, which delight, engage and entertain Generation Y, to pull them back to the high-street time and time again. This growing interest in creating an experience economy comes as a natural progression away from our current service economy (Pine,2011). Pine has attempted to define his interpretation of experience against as service which can be viewed in figure 2 below.

Figure 2 Economic Distinctions Pine (1999) Pp 6

In an experience the buyer is no longer a customer but a “guest” and the economic function is a “stage” rather than a delivery platform. This introduces an element of theatre to the definition. Key attributes within an experience go beyond “customized” and is made “personal”, engaging deeply with the “guest” to create lasting memories and an impression.

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Please see: Beverland et al, (2007), Schmitt, (2003) , Sherry, et al; (2002)

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Therefore the function of the store should not be focused on direct sales but more building a relationship with the brand through engagement and interaction, in turn enhancing the online and mobile interaction. Such an experience approach has previously been displayed with companies including Disney, Nike and Hanley’s. Walt Disney Studios established the first themed park, Magic Kingdom (California, USA) where guests engage in the brand’s fairy-tale stories through built experiences. In such an entertainment destination, guests experience more than a simulated ride as they become part of a scripted narrative going on adventures and interacting with the characters. Such a destination changed the meaning of an amusement park as Walt Disney treated the space as a whole, each section with its own story to tell; wonderland, fantasyland and so on. This idea has been adopted time and time again with other themed parks emerging such as Universal Studios (Florida), Six Flags (Pennsylvania) and Alton Towers (England) - to name a few selling an experience as opposed to a tangible product. Nike Town is a highly commended experience retail destination which should be considered a pioneer in the future development of the retail store. In store users are not only able to customise and fit their shoes but test them in simulated environments such as gym treed-mils. In this the Nike brand are doing more than simply helping customers pick their favourite shoe off the shelf; they are ensuring the brand stays committed to the customer’s general needs and desires even prior to an in-store purchase. In addition Hanley’s toy store based in London, create simulated fun environments where customers of all ages can play with toys and games. Consumers of the older generation can take a trip down memory-lane while younger customers are simply entertained. By creating a themed store, the physical brand presence becomes stronger, where the user becomes fully absorbed by their surroundings to create what Csikszentmihalyi describes as flow experiences;

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“optimal cohesion between experiential elements which lead to customer engagement, complete involvement, immersion, concentration, enjoyment and instinct interest which may result in a sense of time distortion,” i.e. becoming lost in the moment (Csikszentmihalyi,1997, pp46)

In the creation of such experience destinations the power of Picture 7 http://www.facebook.com/scott.mclintock?fref=ts

brandscapping should become

more heavily recognised, utilised and implemented within the brand store. The experience must simulate a true, strong representation of the brand. This requires a degree of authenticity which requires retailer developers to become acutely aware of the brand DNA. If the identity of the brand has been lost over time it is then vital to reassess and re-consolidate what is special about their services and image. Only through being true to themselves will brands find success. Being who they say they are and gaining a robust understanding of their past before developing and embarking on their future is essential in communicating a sound image. Most recently in October 2012 Walt Disney Studios bought over Lucasfilm, the company best known for the production ofStar Wars. Such an investment may be considered unorthodox and ill-fitting to the brand’s family fun DNA. Predictably such news caused some controversy resulted in global criticism with many unsure on how to digest investment. This can be seen in Picture 7with a Disney fan, Scott McLintock stating that the move has, “disaster written all over it”. One Star Wars fan commented to the BBC that the deal would leave "the biggest film franchise in the world totally ruined". (Smith, 2012) Therefore to ensure brands get it right strong customer ethnographic research may initially be required, identifying if the public’s opinion of the brand is reflective to that of the existing image. Only once this DNA has been thoroughly established between both parties can developers begin to consider the idea of a themed store. Themes must highlight the defining

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factor of what makes the store different to their counterparts and exploit it through experiences. Any in-store appliances such as technology of even the clothes should merely be a by-product of the overarching experience. Furthermore these in-store enablers should not only communicate the brand image but enhance online experience effectively merging these two worlds together.

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Chapter 4 In-store facilities must complement the online experience.

As previously stated technology should be used effectively to create a seamless flow between the online and physical environment. In doing so it should not detract from the benefits of the physical environment yet hold meaning and purpose. This may go without saying however in an attempt to create a Generation Y destination many stores today are abusing the use of technology. This can be seen with the new concept store, House of Fraser.com, (Picture 8). Picture 8 House of Fraser.Com Store

With two prototype stores based in Liverpool and Aberdeen the “.com” store acts as what consumers interviewed by the design consultancy, Flywheel addressed as a “fancy Argos” (Flywheel , 2012). Clothes and products can be bought online at the in-store kiosks and picked up the next day at their desired location. The function of the store itself is counterfeit as many customers fail to see what they can’t do in the comfort of their own home rather than in-store. Technology used involves shinny iPads, however from observing custoomers, as the screen naturally sinks into hibernation after a few minutes, customers fail to engage with the blank screen themselves. In this sense the idea of in- store technology was not followed through with effective usage. It would seem we are currently at an experimental stage with the use of in-store technology and so it may take some time to establish what works and what does not. Regardless of the form the objective of such in-store technology should be an instore customer centric device which captivates Generation Y. Christopher Bailer, chief

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creative director at Burberry comments in a Guardian Newspaper Article on the Burberry flagship store on Regent Street, London,

“the speakers, lifts and wires are not about technology, but about customers not feeling board.” (Morley, 2012).

Opening its doors on the 13th of September 2012, the flagship was labelled “the most technologically advanced high fashion store in Britain”, (Dacre,2012), merging their virtual presence with the physical. The new flagship store strengthens the brand DNA by feeding on the iconic Burberry jacket in allowing guests to customise their own Burberry look. The store also boasts in-store entertainment evenings; including bands, talks and catwalk screenings which effectively complement the brand’s online presence, keeping the image consistent. Burberry goes a step further by successfully using technology to reveal the complex journey and craftsmanship behind their pieces. Each item of clothing is embedded with a chip which is then activated when placed in front of the standing mirrors in-store. The mirror then displays the garment in motion on the Burberry catwalk as well as background information on how the piece was fashioned. This builds up a narrative behind their collections. Once an object holds some form of identity and tailored story, it holds meaning and therefore a priceless value, (Arnould, 1988). Picture 9 Tommy Hilfiger Interactive Window Visit; http://www.utalkmarketing.com

Moving away from Burberry, interactive windows have also been used by Tommy Hilfiger and Orange Mobile in the shop window as a means of grabbing customer attention, inviting them in-store or automatically onto an online platform (Picture 9). In addition, Diesel have utilised

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the notion of interactive surfaces to aid customers in visualising how a garment appears when they have it on. The augmented reality mirrors project a variation of jean styles on the customer helping them choose which to try on (Picture 10). Such an Picture 10 Diesel Interactive Mirror http://thingsbecomethings.blogspot.co.uk

experience is engaging at first yet may

become counterfeit as trying the physical garment on would provide better understanding of the look. The online aspect should be present in store yet be dependent on the physical presence to work. This way, over time the physical store will never loose relevance or importance. The Intel mirror however, currently in the early stages of development acts as an advertisement board from afar yet on approach, aids the customer in selecting desired clothes to try on in store. When standing in front of the structure it is able to determine the height, weight and sex of the customer (Picture 11). Placed at the front of the store and with a glass fitting, the device creates an augmented reality in which highlights clothes in the customer’s size throughout the store. The fixture itself is a conversation starter and therefore may encourage a shared social activity. If the device is able to determine such detail, over time one would hope for heightened customer profiles to be developed, recognising returning customers and building an individual in-store profile similar to the online interaction. This notion of utilizing a customer profile in the physical environment Picture 11 Intel Augmented Interactive Mirror Visit; technode.com

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could easily be attained more simply with in-


store associates using tablets to request customer’s online log in details. Such staff empowerment would act as a platform for communication, creating a bond between staff, customer and brand. One retail company who currently do this well is ‘A Suite That Fits’. As a boutique tailoring company, the customer can edit his or hers desired suit profile online. Once the customer logs online, a tailor is available via instant messenger to talk users through the process giving their expertise advice. The customer is then able to meet with the tailor in person for a one to one fitting. A long term relationship is created built on trust and familiarity with the customer receiving a professional insight. In order for brands to ensure such a service remains of relevance and value, detailed levels product knowledge must be instilled within staff. This would require deep levels of staff training and engagement to counteract the rate of growing customer knowledge.

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Chapter 5 Further requirements in creating the future experience retail destination.

The physical space should become a social destination. One only has to look at the success of coffee houses on the high street to recognise that the need for a social destination on the high street is trending. Unlike retail, the demand for coffee houses on the British high street is flourishing. Currently there are over 15,000 coffee shops in the UK (Neate, 2012). In 2011 customers spent £2billion in coffee shops alone - twice the money spent in 2005 (Neate, 2012). The owner of Costa coffee is looking to expand business by adding another 350 stores by March 2013, creating 3,500 jobs throughout the UK (Neate,2012). This is an interesting paradox when placed against the closing of existing retail stores. Therefore one may question the attractive element that coffee houses offer to consumers in the high-street. Jeffery Young, writer and manager of Allerga strategies has labelled coffee shops as “social hubs”, (Young 2010). Within his document titled, “The Role of Coffee shops on the High-street,” he highlights the ability of such spaces to join people from all ages and backgrounds in the one harmonious act. From business meetings to friendly catch ups and awkward first dates, such relaxed, social environments have the ability to remain relevant whatever the context. Young highlights within his study that seventy-one per cent of consumers interviewed by Allerga in 2010, stated that a coffee house on the high-street creates a sense community. Brands such as Costa and Starbucks are currently attempting to push this idea by bringing in local attributes, making the environment feel more connected to local environment (Young, 2010). Therefore it is evident that the act of visiting a coffee house is no longer regarded as such middle class behaviour as it was in pre 21st century Britain. This may be because we are currently living in a time of screen based interactions and therefore striving to attain a degree of physical, human contact as a social society. On a more basic level such an invested interest in coffee houses illustrate our desire and need for social hubs on the high-street. If this is the case, it is essential for such a need to be addressed when considering the future of

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high-street retail store. Coffee houses are currently heavily embedded within the retail experience. In the Allerga survey, the majority of users going to and from a coffee house placed on the high-street where in fact on a shopping spree, as opposed to commuting to and from work or university. Fifty-two present of this demographic stated that their visit was planned, (Young, 2010) Young also states, “A coffee shop helps make the shopping routine easier; it is something I look forward to when out shopping” (Young, 2010). It may be that such a social environment is habitual for retail to thrive in order to bringing the online retail experience together physical. Today’s idea of being sociable filters into online networks. The tweet mirror, placed in shopping malls and dressing rooms allows the customer to interact with the social networking site Twitter, asking friends and family opinions on their outfit or possible purchase. The mirror is a great form of advertising; with live models publishing branded clothes all over the internet. In addition the tweet mirror successfully pulls users away from their mobile phone and onto an in-store branded experience. The mirror embraces the set established behaviours of Generation Y and introduces a new element of social shopping, one which requires the physical space to exist, unlike chat rooms and online reviews. Assuming the need for a social hub is an anchor for the future in-store experience, it is likely to assume that the importance of the changing room will be heightened. Currently changing rooms are where natural yet brand focused conversation occurs between customers – such conversation must be encouraged. A few years ago New Look stimulated customers to complement each other within the changing rooms from an instruction notice as they entered. New Look have now gone a step further by installing body metrics, scanning the customer’s body to create a 3D avatar. This avatar is the exact measurement of the

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Picture 12 BodyMetrics , visit http://www.heliummagazine.com


consumer and so can be used to assess how clothes sit without trying them on (Picture 12). These avatars create a seamless flow between the physical and virtual worlds with the data being translated onto a range of platforms and at various location. However in time, such an online avatar may detract from the use of the physical store space with users only popping in-store on occasion to be measured and so therefore the social aspect of the physical destination should be a prime focus. Similar to the New Look Body Metrics technology is the UPCload - a virtual measuring device which can be downloaded from the internet, onto a customer’s personal computer. Using webcam, this technology scans the user’s body as they stand in front of their laptop creating a virtual avatar (Picture 13). This avatar allows the user to easily shop online and buy clothes that fit each time. The accuracy as well as privacy of the act may limit its implementation. The importance of building an interaction for communication was addressed by Jamine Hegeman’s while attending a Service Design Network talk, Glasgow 2012. Referring to his experience working in MacDonald’s, Picture 13 UPCload, visit www.upcload.com

Hegeman addressed how the

transaction process at the counter did not cater for conversation and a personal relationship. This can also be seen within the retail environment as the psychology of waiting in-line puts pressure on the sales assistant to bash through customers (Maister, 1985). The formation of a line communicates to the customer there is a designated time to wait, possibly them detract from making a purchase. Maister’s research into the psychology of waiting lines illustrates how to manipulate the arrangement of customer to suggest a shorter waiting time (Maister,1985). However, if the physical retail space is to involve payment transactions, such experiences should also be customer centric. It should be possible to eliminate the notion of

29


waiting in a line altogether by welcoming the notion of individual floor walkers acting as their own till. Similar to tables in a restaurant, the payment desk should come to the customer, going that step further for customer engagement and placing a team of workers in control. This strategy is currently being executed by the Apple store with each member of staff holding a card reader and with a number of payment desks assorted around the floor to report to. Burberry are also supporting such a notion within their new concept store by creating payment hubs where the customer relaxes on a sofa as member of staff facilitates them with a chip and pin card reader. However, recent developments cause one to question future payment methods altogether. Quick Tap technology used within the recent Barlcycard App, allows users to pay for transaction with the tap of a button on their mobile phone. Ingenico, “the leading provider of payment solutions� claims it is the biggest improvement to payment methods since the credit card forty years ago (Ingenico 2011). Currently the app works in Pret a Manger, McDonalds and Boots yet research from Ingenico suggest that customers appear to be intimidated by the technology and so it may need more education before deeper implementation (Ingenico,2011). One may assume this will encourage customers to think more fluidly about money or quite simply overrule the need for plastic credit cards.

#

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Chapter 6 The bigger picture

Although worth the investment, creating such experience destinations will be expensive,. The overall expense may result in brand houses being unable to afford a range of permanent store location worldwide. Therefore this may result in an upsurge of derelict shops on the high-street. A current antidote to such an issue is the investment in pop up shops. Pop-up shop destinations provide the retailer with a short term lease, usually only a few months in set locations, providing them with the flexibility to appear in a number of hot spots throughout the country or globe at a low cost. As the leases are short term, brand houses are able to try and test new markets encouraging creativity and innovative ideas. Caril Jayne McNaught, owner of The Olde Young Tea House, Middlesbrough, comments in Boxall on the benefits of her cafe pop-up shop,

“it helped me try new ideas as I am not taking a huge risk. I feel that having a travelling tea house as well as my regular shop will help business grow in areas it wouldn’t normally.” (Boxall,2012)

Here McNaught highlights how successful ventures piloted in pop-up shops could then be fed back into her flagship store with confidence that it is a worthy investment. Investment towards such a form of retail is increasing. In May 2012 the government invested in a £100,000 scheme which included the promotion and creation of pop up shop destinations in Croydon and Stock-on-Tees, England (Boxall, 2012). It could be said that pop up shops keep things fresh on the high-street, providing the public with a variety of shop destinations over time. Furthermore, pop up shops may install a customer mentality of “get it before it is gone” encouraging spending to aid the economy. As well as for retail purposes the idea of a pop-up shop may encompass the future of advertising. Joseph Pine’s stresses within his 2009 TED

31


talk that when advertising, brands should not give too much away yet solely intrigue the customer to visit the in-store and experience it first-hand (Pine, 2009). As the experience generated by a pop-up may be limited due to the nomadic lifestyle, the form could act as a teaser, simply a diluted extension of the flagship store.

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Conclusion It is apparent that retail is at the early stages of acting on the required changes in physical retail. Hopefully this is the dawn of a new exciting high-street however in order to make such progress, retail must be brave and take the risk of trying and testing new ideas on the live market. Such iterations will take time and so more needs to be done now by higher powers to promote such investment and research. Furthermore if the physical brand space is to flourish as it should, brand houses must become proactive in implementing such change. Physical retail spaces should be encouraged to analysis the effect of changes implemented in store and share such insight with other brand houses. This may sound submissive in such a competitive market however such an attitude may be necessary in order to combat the extent of our current situation and fully establish the new form of physical brand spaces. Drawing from the later findings within this study, it is likely that future retail will act as a social hub and a strong experience destination. Therefore one may predict an increase in demand for consultancies that can help retail houses to effectively establish their brand DNA and use technology within physical spaces to the full advantage.

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