08 breaking gender barriers ft. young thug
SPRING 2018
C O N T R I B U TO R S
Joselyn Ramos
Fashion Editor
Bethany Noorlag
Fashion Editor
Kelly Dufort
Fashion + Movement Editor
Haley Maltese
Fashion + Beauty Editor
Abby Romo
Music + Wellness Editor
Antoine Carter
Fashion + Music Editor
Nicole Gardner
Culture Editor
Kassandra De Santiago Ly r i c J o h n s o n Karina Arias Nicolette Berrospi Rachel Brubaker
Culture + Fashion Editor Culture + Beauty Editor Beauty Editor Wellness Editor Beauty Editor
Samantha Hoffman
Health + Wellness Editor
Eimy Diaz
Health + Wellness Editor
Lisa Newell Nicole Gardner
Editor in Chief Layout Designer
MANIFEST 01
SPRING 2018
REFERENCES
Karina Arias h t t p : // w w w. a l l w o m a n p r o j e c t . c o m / h t t p s : // w w w. s w i m s u i t s f o ra l l . c o m /a s h l e y - g ra ham-swimsuits Nicolette Berrospi h t t p s : / /g i m m e d e l i c i o u s . c o m / 2 0 1 7 / 1 0 / 0 7 / 2 0 - m i n ute-meal-prep-chicken-rice-and-broccoli/ L a y l a . “ 2 0 M i n u t e M e a l P r e p .� G i m m e D e l i c i o u s F o o d , 6 M a r. 2 0 1 8 , g i m m e d e l i c i o u s . com/2017/10/07/20-minute-meal-prep-chickenr i c e - a n d - b r o c c o l i /. Rachel Brubaker h t t p s : // w w w. l i v e s t r o n g . c o m /a r t i c l e / 3 0 6 0 2 6 - t h e calories-in-one-tablespoon-of-brown-sugar/ h t t p s : // w w w. g o o g l e . c o m /s e a r c h ? r l z = 1 C 1 G CEA_enUS793&tbm=isch&q=beautiful+skin&chips=q:beautiful+skin,g_2:african+american&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjrgenUosLaAhUM6oM K H W x D DY M Q 4 l Y I K i g A & b i w = 9 8 8 & b i h = 6 1 5 & dpr=1&safe=active&ssui=on#imgrc=ZgI83H3SjlGoXM: h t t p s : / / w w w . g o o g l e . c o m / s e a r c h ? r l z = 1 C1GCEA_enUS793&biw=988&bih=615&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=emnWWszaG4PCjwSP04aAAw&q=brown+sugar+scrub&oq=brown+sugar+scu&gs_l=psy-ab.3.0.0i13k1l6j0i13i5i30k1l3j0i8i13i30k1.44261.47158.0.49463.15.12.0.3.3. 0.77.626.12.12.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.15.641... 0 j 0 i 6 7 k 1 j 0 i 3 0 k 1 j 0 i 5 i 3 0 k 1 . 0 . 1 - 0 z 7 7 N B C i Y& safe=active&ssui=on#imgrc=kXmMdMPjpPV7GM: h t t p : // w w w. b r x f i t n e s s . c o m / w h a t s - n e w / 2 0 1 7 / 1 / 2 0 / book-your-next-visit-from-our-app Antoine Carter h t t p : // h e l i x 3 d . c o . u k / 2 0 1 2 / 1 2 / b e a t s - b y - d r e - u k / Kassandra De Santiago h t t p : // j u s t m e a n s . c o m / b l o g s / i n d i g e n o u s - a p p a r el-a-love-making-fashion-company h t t p s : // w w w. h u f f i n g t o n p o s t . c o m /e n t r y/c u l t u ra l - a p propriation-vs-appreciation_us_5a78d13ee4b0164659c72fb3 h t t p s : // w w w. h u f f i n g t o n p o s t . c o m . a u / 2 0 1 7 / 1 0 / 2 5 / what-exactly-is-cultural-appropriation-heres-whatyou-need-to-know_a_23253460/ h t t p s : // w w w. h u f f i n g t o n p o s t . c a /m e e ra - s o l a n k i - e s trada/the-fine-line-between-cultural-appropriation-and-appreciation_a_23004529/
02 MANIFEST
Eimy Diaz h t t p s : // w w w. a d s o f t h e w o r l d . c o m /m e d i a /p r i n t /a u d i ble_romance h t t p s : // w w w. p r e v e n t i o n . c o m /m i n d - b o d y/e m o t i o n a l - h e a l t h /s e c r e t - h a b i t s - h a p p y - w o m e n Kelly Dufort h t t p s : //d u a l i p a . b l o g f l o p . c o m / 2 0 1 8 / 0 1 / 2 2 /d u a - l i p a for-the-adidas-originals-spring-2018/ h t t p s : / / w w w . m p r n e w s . o r g / s t o r y / 2 0 1 8 / 0 1 / 0 8 /g a l lery-black-on-golden-globes h t t p : // w w w. e o n l i n e . c o m /n e w s / 9 0 9 6 7 8 /a l l - t h e celebs-who-wore-white-roses-at-the-grammys-2018 Samantha Hoffman h t t p s : // w w w. b e l l a n a i j a . c o m / 2 0 1 7 / 0 2 /s p o r t s wear-brand-under-armour-launches-collection-with-african-american-ballet-powerhouse-misty-copeland/ h t t p s : // w w w. g q . c o m /s t o r y/ t i m - c o p p e n s - p i t t i - u o mo-interview Ly r i c J o h n s o n h t t p s : // w w w. n s s m a g . c o m /e n / f a s h i o n / 9 1 1 8 /c h i a ra capitani-stars-in-off-white-ss17-campaign h t t p s : //m e d i u m . c o m /@ a y e . t e e . t e e / w h y - d e f e n d ing-your-cultural-appropriation-is-dangerous-ef29c7288fb Bethany Noorlag h t t p s : / / w w w . a n d r o i d a u t h o r i t y. c o m / p a n d o r a - p r e m i um-access-on-demand-823679/ Joselyn Ramos h t t p s : // w e a r i t d u b l i n . c o m /t a g /v o g u e / h t t p : // w w w. m a r c j a c o b s . c o m / h t t p s : //c o m m o n s .w i k i m e d i a . o r g / w i k i / F i l e : B a r n e y s _ N e w _ Yo r k _ L o g o . s v g Abigail Romo h t t p s : // w w w. i n s t a g ra m . c o m /t o m m y h i l f i g e r / ? h l = e n h t t p s : // h i p h o p d x . c o m /n e w s / i d . 3 9 2 2 5 /t i t l e . a a p rocky-is-the-new-face-of-dior-homme h t t p : //t i m e . c o m / 5 1 2 2 6 6 5 / l o g i c - g ra m m y s /
SPRING 2018
CONTENTS 07 music 13 fashion 24 culture 38 wellness 14 interview with To m m y H i l f i g e r
33 interview with Tim Coppins MANIFEST 05
MUSIC | SPRING 2018
MUSIC & EXPRESSION ABIGAIL ROMO Music is what connects, unites, and bridges the gap between people’s differences around the world. There have been a variety of respected artists that have voiced their beliefs on our current society and have used their power to positively influence our generation and generations to come. Artists like Logic, Demi Lovato, Eminem, Dua Lipa, J Cole, Kendrick, and Tory Lanes have touched on topics like suicide prevention, women empowerment, political spectrum, and social issues. On the Grammy’s, Logic came out with a powerful message for those who suffer from mental health issues. The performance of “1-800-273-8255 was very moving as he touched on issues like suicide prevention, delivered a speech on equality, and even addressed Donald Trump and the recent controversy that there has been involving immigrants. Rapper Eminem has also made bold statements and made a freestyle rap on Donald Trump. Demi Lovato and Dua Lipa are artists who focus on women empowerment with the recent documentary that Demi came out with and with the number one
pop song “New Rules”. Demi’s documentary “Simply Complicated” spread awareness on mental health including her struggles with bulimia, bi-polar disorder, cutting, abusive relationship, and her cocaine addiction. She explores and shares a side of her that audience has not seen, which made her even more authentic. J Cole, Kendrick, and Tory Lanes have all made their lyrics gravitate around social issues. J Cole raps about racial prejudices and racism in some of his songs in the “4 your eyes-only” album, Kendrick raps about political issues for some of the songs in the DAMN album, and Tory Lanes focuses on police brutality in the new “shooters” song. Of course we have plenty of upcoming artists that are mumble rappers and that don’t focus on their lyrics as much, but there are definitely lyrical artists that use their rap to talk about issues happening in our society. What type of artists and rappers do you prefer? Those who express facts about society and send positive vibes, or those who focus on the beat rather than on the words? One thing is true, that music will always be a form of therapy and a way to express how you feel! MANIFEST 07
SPRING 2018 | MUSIC
BREAKING GENDER BARRIERS A N TO I N E C A R T E R
One artist in particular Young Thug, broke the internet with his mixtape cover No, My Name Is Jeffery, where he wore a dress by Italian designer Alessandro Trincone. He wasn’t afraid to defy gender stereotypes and go against what’s considered masculine. Trincone spoke on his inspiration behind the collection that included this dress stating, “The androgynous identity of my inspirational garments reinforces my belief of nogender boundaries between men and women”. Young Thug showed he was comfortable with his sexuality, and wasn’t afraid to push boundaries. He showed that you can like what you like, and not think about sexuality or what people are going to think in doing so.
There’s no doubt about it that fashion and music go hand in hand. Artists nowadays are becoming more and more in tune with fashion, and constantly setting trends. There are also artists who want to distinguish themselves from the rest, constantly making statements with their dress and appearance.
Young Thug once mentioned in a Calvin Klein campaign where he also wore women’s clothing saying, “I feel like there’s no such thing as gender.” It definitely was statement wearing the dress. Young Thug received a lot of backlash, being accused of being homosexual and called feminine. He clearly demonstrates how he doesn’t care what others think. 08 MANIFEST
Q: Do you think DBM and it’s success paved the way for other entrepreneurs and small businesses? A: I definitely DBM has showed kids that anyone can do it with hard work and dedication. Don’t give up on your dreams and don’t take no for an answer. You gotta make them want you. I feel me collabing with Nike, Chicago Bears, Adidas, as well as others has brought light to Chicago and it’s creatives and helped open doors as well. I had a friend of mine who designs clothes as well Sheila Rashid hook up with me on a few pieces with the Chicago Bears. That was pretty dope giving her that opportunity, and opening doors for her as well. Q: Who can you say is your biggest influence or inspiration behind your designs, if any? A N TO I N E C A R T E R
DBM
AN INTERVIEW WITH
A: Chicago by far is my biggest influence on majority of what I come up with. For about 5 years that’s actually all my designs were geared towards. It just so happen that other states appealed to the clothing, as well as Chicago celebrities such as Dwayne Wade, Chance the Rapper, Rockie Fresh, and some others I can’t think of right now. Other than that, Kanye West and other “crazy” creatives give me inspiration in other ways when it comes to my clothing. Basically reminding me it’s okay to have these ideas people deem as crazy. Q: Did you expect DBM to have this big of impact on Chicago, as well as just in general, that it has had? A: To be honest my main goal was to just have a brand Chicago based and oriented. But it’s amazing how much this city supported me and put me on. They’ve really been behind me these past years and definitely helped in creating enough buzz that the Chicago Bears reached out to me to collab. That’s huge for Chicago history. That’s why I put on for Chicago as much as I can. Q: Did you ever think not going to college was going to affect you in running a clothing business? A: Honestly, at first I did. I kind of just dived in not really knowing what I was getting myself into. I mean I knew I wanted to make and sell clothes. But I had to to learn the business aspects of it, without the college education. So I had to teach myself a lot of things. I also learned quickly not to be afraid to ask for help, I couldn’t do this by myself. Putting heads together and developing a team definitely helped me in constructing a successful business. So even though I didn’t have the college education, I had enough book smarts and other brains to help get the job done. It’s funny I’m actually doing better than a lot of my relatives with college degrees.
INTERVIEW | SPRING 2018
Q: Do you see DBM expanding past streetwear? A: Yes actually. I actually got this kid’s clothing collection I plan on releasing. “Don’t Be Mean” is the name. Kind of a play off our name “Don’t Be Mad”. I don’t think I can ever truly break away from streetwear though. It’s just what I was brought up o and truly love. Those fancy designers were never my thing. Q: With all this attention DBM is bringing from big brands now, is that going to change the type of material you put out there? A: Absolutely not. As I mentioned earlier you gotta make these brands want you. I know the Chicago Bears and Nike reached out for a reason. I could never see myself going mainstream. In fact, you’ll be surprised how many collabs I turn down just because that’s not what I’m trying to do right now. I like to make sure everything feels like ME. I don’t let these brands get to my head and try to make what I think THEY want. At the end of the day I put on for the streets. Q: What is helping DBM change the game in streetwear? Q: With everything becoming so tech savvy and via the internet, do you think having a store will be necessary A: I think our presence in the youth is definitely helping in the years to come? change the game. Also our positive image. You don’t see most streetwear brands promoting not to be mad. A: That’s a pretty good question. Personally I feel I But also our creativity by far. I feel I’ve been the most will most likely keep the store, just because of that consistent with creative, original ideas and Chicago has experience it gives customers when they visit. Hey definitely shown how much they appreciated it. I just I’ve even had a kid come all the way from L.A to get gotta stay innovative. That’s what helping me change something out of our store. Even when he could’ve the game. ordered online Our store is pretty roomy and you can really just chill out in there. I’ve got all type of DBM Q: Whenever you are done with designing and making decorations and displays. It’s a pretty cool looking store clothes, what is the impact you will want DBM to have if I do say so myself, and I think customers enjoy that, left on everyone? opposed to shopping online. Plus I host workshops every month teaching kids on other fields in fashion A: I really just want DBM to leave the message that other than just being the one to make clothes. anyone can do it. Follow your dreams, put your people on, and don’t go against yourself. I see these brands all Q: What is the next step for DBM in the streetwear the time switch up their image or do something that fashion industry? I can just tell isn’t them. Be yourself. And you still be sucessful without “selling out”. I also would like to see A: The next step right now is for us to really branch out more Chicago creatives coming together. It’s a tough from Chicago, and expand to other states. I want DBM city to get on unlike others. I want people to see DBM to have a presence in L.A., New York, as well as Atlanta. and be like hey, I don’t gotta move outta Chicago to get As far as clothing wise we want to make sure we don’t on. stray too far from our roots. Chicago will always be where the heart is and where our main influence is from. MANIFEST 11
FASHION: RUNWAY | SPRING 2018
KIM AND H E R C LO N E S J O S E LY N R A M O S
The most important factor when it comes to talking about fashion is understanding how to portray it. Marketing is such a vital component when it comes to giving a brand attention, or giving them the right exposure. Social media has provided celebrities, upcoming brands, and high end fashion an opportunity to display their creativity to their audience. Recently, Kim Kardashian and her friends took social media marketing to a craftier direction. The Yeezy collection is making a return, and while many didn’t expect it to rise again. You can’t help but applaud Kim and her team for exposing the new collection in the most intriguing manner. Popular social media activist, Celebrities, and close friends of Kim Kardashian-West all participated in making this Yeezy 6 Campaign eye catching. With the press following Kim for nearly a
decade, the public has or knows an idea of what Kim’s recent hair change or wardrobe is like. So, who exactly was in this Yeezy Pack? Paris Hilton and queen Kristen Crawley, had their own part by imitating Kim’s look with her long platinum blonde hair. While many may look at this as “weird,” the weird has done enough to have you look this up to learn more about it. NYFW is coming up next week, and there are more releases and coverage of what’s included in Kanye’s Yeezy Season 6 collection. Now to see what the crowd’s reaction will be like? We don’t know until the day of the show. The past couple of collections haven’t been receiving the best feedback. Kanye has taken time off since his last collection, so all we can so is hope for, is the best.
MANIFEST 13
AN INTERVIEW WITH
ABIGAIL ROMO Q: What are your thoughts on the expansion of your brand?
Q: What do you think the zeitgeist our current generation is?
A: As the designer of Tommy Hilfiger, I feel that my team and I has brought progress when it comes to the expansion of the brand. It has improved for the better, and we are working on targeting the upcoming generations day by day.
A: I think our zeitgeist is heavily based on activism, mental health, healthy lifestyle, rise of feminism movements, and having an overall socially involved consciousness from people.
Q: Do you think that social media has positively or negatively influenced your target audience?
Q: What are your thoughts on Tommy Hilfiger as a global company?
A: Social media has improved our influence in our target market because we are tapping into the millennial population. This is the designated tool for us to really grasp their attention. Social media has been a positive resource for our brand.
A: Being a global company is very interesting because we have the opportunity to cater to different cultures and really learn the ins and out of that specific culture. It is nice to learn how to cater to different groups.
Q: Where do you get your inspiration? A: I get my inspiration from the youth. I feel that in order to be innovative and to be on trend, you need to observe the spirit of the youth. It connects back to our mission statement as well because we are dedicated to make apparel that is catered to the essence of the youth.
Q: What sets your brand apart from other luxury brands? A: We really capture the vibes of the generation of now. We implement vibrant and eye capturing designs that stand out. We are still working on revamping our brand, but we set a very positive, youthful, and cool tone.
INTERVIEW | SPRING 2018 Q: Do you like the direction that fashion is going now and is it appropriate towards how society is? A: Yes, I think fashion recycles itself and changes according to how the world is. I like the direction that fashion is taking because it is going towards a more health conscious route where people are looking for clothing to resemble their healthier lifestyle. There is a correlation with how society and fashion is. Q: What exciting upcoming projects is Tommy Hilfiger going to do next? A: We want to collaborate with more celebrities for instance Demi Lovato or Zendaya. We want someone who could easily represent and relate to the youth. For instance, Gigi Hadid was an amazing collaboration and we want to work with more people like her, who could connect with the younger generations.
Q: Do you feel that you might have lost some clients from your revamp to the brand or gained? A: With every brand transformation there are clients who stick through the process and those who do not. For the most part, I feel that we are gaining more following in our brand than losing. Q: What is your favorite clothing piece? A: A statement outwear piece can definitely make your look whether it is a sweater, jacket, or coat.
MANIFEST 15
Make a Difference. Wear your impact. Create smiles.
FASHION | SPRING 2018
HOW TO DRESS FOR WORK
1.
BETHANY NOORLAG Facing the workplace dress code is not the most motivational process. People are to begin their day in dread by adorning their bodies in plain button down blouses, traditional pantsuits, and solid color pumps. To make matters worse, one must spend their well earned paycheck on clothing that they despise wearing. It may seem as if it is near impossible to obtain uniqueness in the workplace. However, the workplace can be the number one source for creative dressing if these tips are followed:
2.
1 . M I X P RIN TS , PATTER NS, AND TEXTU RES 2 . L AYE R 3 . PL AY WITH S IL HOU ETTES
3.
4 . ADD A P O P OF COLOR 5 . D ON ’T BE A FRAID TO OPT FOR THE N O N -T RA D IT IONAL Now that it is understood how to integrate personal style in work dressing, one must begin shopping within a reasonable budget. To save money on chic looks use these tips for spending less money: 1. Shop at discount, or thrift stores. Discount stores, like TJ Maxx enable shoppers to purchase brand names for significantly less money. It may take a little more digging to find the perfect garment, but once one reaches the registrar, they will not regret the time spent looking for the perfect piece. 2. Hit the sale section first.
4.
5.
3. Shop often- it sounds like a money sucker, which it can be if one is impulsive with their purchases. However, when one shops wisely, and often they can learn the various price points, and gain an understanding of what to compare their purchases to. 4. Buy out of season. 5. Learn the prime time for sales. End of seasons will often times have sales on items from the former season. Also, after Christmas sales are in most stores, typically with lower prices than Black Friday. MANIFEST 17
FASHION | SPRING 2018
KASSANDRA DE SANTIAGO Culture appropriation has been a major issue since before our generation was born that have had people wringing their hands for having their culture “stolen”. We have had many designers who have showcased merchandise inspired by a different culture (Valentino fall 2015) and we have had celebrities who have taken a cultures lifestyle and turn it into an aesthetic (The Kardashians). There are many forms of cultural appropriation that many people have fallen into victim before, but there is a right way to go about it. To stop wearing that Japanese influenced kimono or Mexican inspired blouse will be too much to ask for. We live in a country and in a time where we strive to become diverse. We look at other cultures and get inspired by them and then we chose to peek into that culture by wearing an artifact/clothing or listening to their music or painting/ making products, merchandise, and art that was inspired by them. We look for a connection within their culture so we can relate and appreciate. Wearing that African inspired headdress or sporting henna does not have to lead to cultural appropriation. There are right ways to appreciating a culture you were influenced by. “How?” you may ask, well below are 4 ways to avoid appropriating a culture’s traditions or lifestyle. 1. Never reduce the culture to a fashion statement or aesthetic. To only sport a henna tattoo for fashion purposes (like at a music festival) and without a thought of what it signifies in the culture is reducing its meaning and belittling the culture. It would entirely different if the person wearing the henna tattoo knew that a henna tattoo is worn in Hindi weddings and only did so if invited to celebrate in one. They are partaking and emerging themselves in the culture, therefore appreciating it in the right way. 2. Pay homage to the culture. Many celebrities have dove into the cornrow trend and have boasted about being in the trend, but what many have failed to do was too give the African/African-American culture it recognitions for their tradition and significance in cornrows. It’s easy to just sport the style but it speaks a lot more volumes if you explain where the style is from, the significance, and why you choose to honor and appreciate that culture. 3. Engage more with the culture, don’t just wear it It’s not enough to just wear the artifacts from another’s culture, but immerse yourself in that culture as well. Take a Japanese class and learn their language, their lifestyle, and participate in events. Educate yourself what their culture is all about. Don’t just steal their culture and wear it without know a shed of what it is about. 2. Never use sacred symbols or artifacts! They are sacred for a reason. They hold great significance to the culture and to appropriate is to offend the culture and belittle it. MANIFEST 19
AN INTERVIEW
MARC JACOBS J O S E LY N R A M O S Q: Is there such thing as an ugly piece of clothing? A: If something is hideous, that’s interesting. It’s kind of the same sensibility that Andy Warhol had. He was interested in everything and soaked up what he saw like a sponge.
like it’s important to have personal and leisure time, i do enjoy the art behind Instagram, I get to add my personal touch to the posts. It’s amazing how many people have become successful from blogging on social media, but I feel like there are way too many of the similar people which is deceiving when it comes to change and new taste.
Q: What is your favorite accessory currently? A: The new satchels, bags, and purses with the double J logo. Q: How do you feel about social media, what’s your favorite platform, and how do you feel about this new wave of bloggers? A: I feel like the new generation needs to learn how to detox from being on platforms, after a while it’ll make you so insecure about every single thing. While I feel
Q: Marc, when you first started out in your design career, and you introduced your grunge collection, it wasn’t widely accepted. How do you feel about the new generation of fashion where designers nowadays are able to feature anything on a collection and not react the way they once did to what you released? A: Honestly, when I first started noticing that grunge was being accepted worldwide after my dismissal, I was bothered. Now I’ve accepted it because it shifted me to start a new face for myself. I’m happy that those new
INTERVIEW | SPRING 2018 designers now that are into grunge or anything can be accepted for who they are or what they’re inspired from. Fashion has surely changed, for the better, but due to many circumstances it is a sensitive time of our generation, where we need to be cautious with what we do or include in design collections.
A: The 70’s
Q: Are you appreciating this new trend of Parisian style?
Q: Who’s your biggest inspiration?
Q: What is a trait that you like about yourself? A: That I stay driven, and that I don’t want to change the way I am, I always want more.
A: Diana Vreeland A: The Parisian style has inspired my recent collection, and follows my unique and different take on constructing my next collection.
Q: Would you ever leave New York? A: Never, my dog would not be happy if I did that.
Q: Pick a decade where you’d like to visit?
MANIFEST 21
SPRING 2018 | FASHION
HOW TO BE COMFY BUT LO O K C L A S S Y I N 5 E A S Y S T E P S : H A L E Y M A LT E S E
STEP 1
STEP 4
First things first, go to your closet and find your favorite comfy sweater *preferably one without graphics*. Always put comfort first.
Find a pair of small earrings. Preferably pearl or diamond studs. You want to go with studs because you don’t want to walk around all day with giant pieces of jewelry that tug on your ears. That is definitely not comfy. So go small or go home!
STEP 2 Next tip is to throw on a pair of black leggings. Trust me leggings are an essential for every girl’s wardrobe. Most of the time leggings can substitute for pants.
STEP 3 Find a pair of flats. Preferably neutral colored like black or nude. You can even put on flats that have some jewels on them. However, if you do not own a pair of flats, I would highly suggest you go to Target or H&M. These two places have reasonably priced shoes for any outfit 22 MANIFEST
STEP 5 Lastly! Find that gorgeous lipstick that you have been saving for a special occasion and throw it on. You don’t need to be going out clubbing or going somewhere fancy to be wearing lipstick. This small accessory completes the entire look. By throwing on lipstick, you just turned this look into an outfit you can wear anytime and anyplace.
YO U . A R E . W E LC O M E !
SPRING 2018 | CULTURE
B E YO U R O W N F I R S T LO V E EIMY DIAZ
If you’re asked who was your first love? Who would you immediately think of? Your first crush in middle school? In high school? Your celebrity crush? Your current partner? Have you ever thought of considering yourself as your first love? Yes, it sounds kind of egotistical, but many research have found that college students who based their self-worth on external sources, such as physical appearance, appearance from others, and even academic performance, noted more stress, anger, academic problems, relationship conflicts, and even a higher use of drug and alcohol; and have developed anxiety and eating disorders. So why don’t we start by finding ways to fall in love within ourselves to achieve incredibly amazing outputs that will make our lives flow easier and better, before we start loving others. Yes, it’s not easy as it sounds but it’s possible if you give yourself a chance! Take baby steps. They will take you everywhere sooner than expected. You are worth of your own love and remember self-love comes first.
The 4-steps Prescription for Self-Love that Will Change Your Life First: So you might ask, where do I start? Start by the very beginning of each day! Tell yourself something positive, check yourself out! Make sure you’re treating your body like a temple, you will only have one body so you MUST take care of it by filling it in with healthy foods and drinks, trust me, your body will thank you later. Appreciate the skin you’re in, no one else is out there like yourself! So, embrace being you! Second: Another step you can take is surround yourself with people that you feel truly cares about you and wish the best for you. Dedicate and invest time on those people that accept you for who you are and those that empower you to become a better you everyday. Once you take care of that, you must cut off toxic people out of your life and believe me when I say that your life will suddenly start becoming better. Third: Stop being so hard on yourself! Us as women tend to judge ourselves more than others do, which leads to lose the confidence that’s within us! You need to understand that we are perfectly imperfect and we make mistakes before you can truly love yourself. Don’t punish yourself for things that sometimes you have no control of, and if you do, learn from it and be better next time! Forgive yourself and practice to be more patience and seeing the positive side of all things.
24 MANIFEST
Fourth: And the most important one of them all! Love life and others. Life has so much to offer and that’s exactly why you need to do anything it takes to accomplish your dreams. Don’t let anything or anyone stop you from chasing the life you want to live. Stay perseverant and spread good vibes. In addition, love others in freedom. But, keep in mind that you can’t love others if you don’t know how to love yourself first! But once you’ve achieved that, it will enable you to reach this milestone. Start practicing to love, respect, and support for others. All these baby steps will help you practice self-love if that’s something that you struggle with or would like to practice. I have listed a few books that further teaches about how to be your self’s first love: - Note to Self by Connor Franta - Nothing Changes Until You Do by Mike Robbins - Confidence: Overcoming love self-esteem, insecurity, and selfdoubt by Thomas Premuzic Give them a try, you won’t regret it.
CULTURE | SPRING 2018
B R E A K I N G B O DY S TA N D A R D S KARINA ARIAS “More than 70 per cent of women want the media to portray a more diverse range of physical appearance, age, race, shape and size in advertising and marketing.” (news.com, 2016). Body image has been an issue for women and even men all around the world. For many years we’ve seen one body type, one race, and a certain age group in the fashion industry. The lack of diversity has affected the self-esteem of many women and men. I believe that body diversity is very important to have in our society. It’s important to encourage women to embrace their body and feel confident in their own skin. Not only should we encourage them to embrace their body but, also to live a healthy lifestyle. The media does a great job at photoshopping and creating an image that isn’t real. There’s nothing wrong with being fit and slim but, there is something wrong with only promoting one body type. Women come in all shapes and sizes. For someone women it might be easier to lose the weight and have a fit body but, for some women it’s not so easy. Ashley Graham is a plus size model and body activist. She is a great example of someone famous that’s breaking society’s standards when it comes to body diversity/image. According to an interview British Vogue had with Ashley Graham states, “Having more role models, more women who are like ‘Yeah, I have cellulite. Yeah, it’s even on my arms, not just my legs. My butt is a really bizarre shape but you know what, whatever, I’m just going to go rock it.’ I think if we had more role models like that, who were really just speaking their truth about their body and the skin that they’re in, then maybe young America would be different.”” (Vogue, 2017). MANIFEST 26
AN INTERVIEW WITH
SPRING 2018 | INTERVIEW
RICK OWENS
Q: Your brand has been around for a few decades. In the fashion industry it is no secret that the evolution of a brand through that amount of time brings change, but yours has held the same aesthetic and vision throughout, a commendable fete. How have you successfully done that? A: My brand is very much an extension of myself. My personal aesthetic, preference, and lifestyle are what the brand is comprised of, so for me this journey was natural. The brand may have evolved in pursuit, but I have stayed the same, and coincidentally the brand has as well. This started as a creative pursuit to express myself, and I have continuously checked-in through the years to make sure that stays true to my journey. Q: What current designers do you feel subscribe to this same personal consistency? A: I think there are many designers in the current culture who are authentic and have the potential to keep the brand without losing vision. I admire Alexander Wang and his vision, both in aesthetic and pursuit. I think his collections and artistic approach to fashion have evolved with him as a designer, even at such a young age. Q: Being an extension of yourself, it also seems the brand carries as a catalyst for your personal beliefs and the institutions you believe in. How do you think fashion gives light to these topics?
NICOLE GARDNER
A: I think fashion is an artform that should be celebrated as such, and used to carry our messages. It’s predictable to speak concisely and openly about traditional beauty, but we have an opportunity to speak about otherworldly versions of beauty in an indirect, introspective way. That’s what I aim to do in my collections and I feel fashion gives the messages a space to live beyond my own world. People can wear the statements and bring them into the world. Q: Do you feel like this activism in fashion is being saturated with the current global culture? A: I think it is great people are speaking out about the many topics in the current world through fashion and everyone happens to do it their own way. I am an advocate for giving people a voice artistically. I think if you’re a brand speaking on something you or your team is personally passionate about, it will never have the potential to be a saturation in the conversation. Q: Does your current collection utilize this tactic at all? A: Somewhat. My recent absorption in land art gave way to this collection, which speaks to the human need to try to find order in wilderness. I really am pulling from all sources of the current world to create a show based on humility. Q: Where do you draw inspiration for your collections?
A: Honestly, like much of the brand, I just am inspired by the things I am personally invested in. The things I do with my free time have a big impact on how I design. Ultimately I want to create pieces I am proud of and shows I would want to attend.
to because I really do believe everyone, and every brand for that matter, has their own practice they are going after. I certainly do not concern myself with appealing to specific generations or demographics, but I understand the appeal.
Q: You speak of designing as an artistic process. How do you feel art and fashion intertwine?
Q: What are your thoughts on the millennial population as a whole?
A: Initially, I actually wanted to be an artist, but I felt certain aspects of the creative life of an artist did not fit me or my vision. Quite honestly, fashion was the easiest happy medium which is why I started in apparel. As I’ve said before, I really do believe fashion is an artform in itself, just a different medium than the traditional mediums. It also has this utilitarian aspect which makes the art that much more elevated and digestible to the public. It’s a beautiful thing, truly.
A: I think there is a split understanding of the millennial generation as a whole: on one hand they are consumers of the disposable, fast fashion that I personally do not subscribe to, but understand; on the other hand there has been a resurgence of quality and understanding of products with meaning and power.
Q: On another note, the millennial population has been switching the script of fashion and consumption in recent years. Do you feel your brand appeals to this sector of innovators?
A: Yes, I think there is always room for improvement and revival, and the disruptive nature of the new generations may be the push needed. I think there is a good section that care about quality and history and want to give meaning to the industry. Their tendencies to think more in-depth about their purchases, beliefs, and living seem to be a good indicator that the industry can thrive is treated properly.
A: This is something I have thought about as a brand for a while. I try to stray away from making assumptions or telling people to the lives they should subscribe
Q: Do you think there’s a hope with younger generations to revive the fashion industry?
MANIFEST 28
i PHONE X. Say Hello to Future
i PHONE
Say Hello to Future
CULTURE | SPRING 2018
WHY HAIR IS MUCH MORE THAN JUST HAIR LY R I C J O H N S O N Cornrows - a hairstyle that many have worn and is simply just a hairstyle, but for others it is so much more than that. In recent popular culture news, a Kardashian has yet again stirred up controversy for what she calls “Bo Derek” braids. And this is where the problem lies. For those unfamiliar, Bo Derek is a Caucasian-American actress best known for her breakthrough role in the film 10. Derek’s character wears cornrows in which Kim Kardashian has chosen to model her most recent look. In many non-Western societies hair holds a lot of power and when cut there are mourning ceremonies. I remember my great-grandmother referencing the story of the Israelite, Samson, whenever I would even mention getting rid of any unwanted hair. Sure, Bo Derek wore them in 1979 and brought attention to the style, but Fulani braids have been a style of the Fulani people of West Africa for centuries. This is not something new. Ancient Africans used hair
to symbolize marital status, age, wealth and rank within social hierarchy. Some Native Americans tribes believe hair an extension of the nervous system, and cut their hair in what is called a mourning ceremony when death occurs. Black men and women have been discriminated against for years for wearing their hair in dreadlocks, in cornrows, or in natural styles. To have to seriously contemplate whether to wear one’s hair in its natural state to a job interview for fear of ridicule and seeing other cultures simply reduce it to a trend and be able to live without stigma is insulting. So saying, “It’s just hair” is not a viable explanation when questioned. It’s fun to experiment, but keep in mind that hair is a lot more than a beauty statement for most before doing so and trying to be “edgy”. Hair is a symbol of power. Hair is an identity. And hair is way more than just hair.
MANIFEST 30
SPRING 2018 | CULTURE
S TA N D I N G U P B E F O R E S TA N D I N G O U T K E L LY D U F O R T
“
THERE’S STRENGTH IN NUMBERS. ONCE WE SHOW THE W O R L D T H AT W E ’ R E TO G E T H E R , T H E Y C A N ’ T S TO P U S .
”
FA S H I O N
In a time where campaigns, movements and activism are in the spotlight for their ability to create change or spark inspiration; it’s important to see how these movements affect both the fashion industry and the music industry. Through fashion and music, one can express themselves, their creativity and their individuality. But, both fashion and music can make a statement. Two movements that have come to ours, and many others attention are known as the “me too” movement and the “times up” movement. These two movements are fighting for those who have experienced any form of sexual assault. Not only are these movements focusing on stopping sexual assault, but they are encouraging those who have experienced this, to stand up for themselves and come forward with the truth. As a society, its empowering when we all come together for a cause isn’t it? It is even more empowering when celebrities and those who have a following stand up for people whose voices are not being heard.
31 MANIFEST
MUSIC
Weeks after the Golden Globes was the Grammys where we saw everyone holding a white rose for solidarity and multiple artists voiced their support for the times up movement. These movements are making an impact and a statement. It is refreshing to see so many celebrities supporting these movements and standing up for what’s right without having to say anything. They are expressing their support through fashion and music.
This is where we see these movements have an impact on music and fashion. The red carpet is a place where celebrities appear to make a statement and to hopefully be honored in the “best dressed” category. That was not the case for the 75th annual Golden Globes red carpet this year. This year instead of trying to stand out celebrities showed they were standing up. Guests showed up in all black attire for solidarity and to show their support of the times up movement.
SPRING 2018 | INTERVIEW
TIM COPPENS
AN INTERVIEW WITH
SAMANTHA HOFFMAN
Q: What brought you into Under Armour in 2016? A: There was a desire for something new. A new twist on an American sportswear brand. Q: What do you desire to do through UAS? A: I desire to allow the ambitious generation to go longer, faster, and harder with intuitive product and a modern style. Q: How do you interpret the twist that you intend to create with the company? A: Under Armour has a unique position to take on the task of defining this space with an authentic east coast sports and innovation brand footprint that is armed for the lifestyle market. Q: Great! So how to you feel about working in the athletic apparel industry? A: I feel extremely fortunate to be working in such a dynamic industry. There’s a constant state of change in the consumer’s tastes, and there is always a new way to think about your fitness. There are always new fashion trends and new fashion icons coming onto the scene.
Q: As a CFDA Swarovski Award recipient, what has Under Armour brought to your life? A: Finding new ways to define what American sportswear is. I want to make people say ‘wow I wouldn’t expect that from Under Armour!
and are looking to extend the relationship they already have on and off the field as well as attracting new consumers. Q: So this new UAS line is not for sports? A: No, Under Armour Sportswear is “built for life.”
Q: How will you design this new wave for Under Armour since your own designs retail for more than the Under Armour consumer is accustomed to? A: Well, Under Armour has always had a commitment to making sure their price point is lower than that of competitors which is part of the appeal. I don’t see that changing. Q: In your opinion, why do you think Under Armour decided create this new UAS line? A: The UAS extension of the brand gives Under Armour an opportunity to satisfy the consumers who love UA
Q: So is it athleisure? A: It’s not activewear, it’s not athleisure. It’s an idea of young, ambitious, new generation of clothing. Q: What can we expect in the future from you and Under Armour? A: A line that leverages UA’s technical expertise in performance apparel. You get the aesthetic you’re looking for but with the comfort, cushioning and all the things an innovative brand such as Under Armour would provide. MANIFEST 34
CULTURE | SPRING 2018
W H AT I T M E A N S T O B E A “ S E L F - E M P L O Y E D C R E AT I V E ” NICOLE GARDNER Today, we live in a digital world where the script has been shifted: 9-5 desk jobs are becoming scarce and working from home actually means working, from home. This has given rise to a new generation of creatives who have broken the boundaries of work and environment. According to the most recent EY Global Contingent Workforce Study, the community is growing, with the prospect that by 2020 almost one in five workers will be employed on a freelance or contract basis. The rise in self-employment has specifically touched our generation of millennials in creative fields, and the new reality needs to be addressed: what does being a selfemployed creative really mean today? Undoubtedly, let’s address the obvious – anything with the phrase “self-employed” is not commonly associated with prestige. If you stumble upon a Tinder profile that says “self-employed”, chances are you picture someone sitting on the couch all day in their robe, unambitiously watching a 12-hour marathon of Forensic Files for “research” on the murder mystery novel they plan to write. The reality is, that person could very well exist as a self-employed creative. The phrase “self-employed creative” is understood as a blanket term to encompass the population of young, creative entrepreneurs who work essentially for themselves. If you break it down, it consists of three categories: those who work on a freelance or contract basis, those who own a blog or digital media account that serves as their source of income, or those who create content for themselves to then implement into the world, such as artists or writers. In each of these categories, however, it is important to understand that the means of workload, income level, and benefits are left for the individual to seek out and manage.
of discussion among financials in recent months, as those outside our generation are trying to grasp the concept and answer why the movement is happening at all. Looking at the reduced income levels of millennials in comparison to our parents’ generations could give them a head-start. In the most recent millennial infographic by Goldman Sachs, it was reported that “Lower employment levels and smaller incomes have left younger Millennials with less money than previous generations.” For this reason, there has been a more careful interaction with money. The same infographic also noted an increase in renting and access, and a decrease in owning and buying. It seems this pattern only supports the change in workforce, one in which there is no structured affiliation to one company, but rather a free-flowing work-client environment. So how does this effect the community of self-employed creatives? As the work culture shifts, and self-employed creatives penetrate farther into the corporate world, there is a hope that there will be a shift in understanding the community and the position will be better understood. In a recent Forbes article, it was noted that “Employees are healthier, experience less stress, and are more productive and engaged when they effectively make choices about how, where and when they work.” Even with the increased reliance on individuals, the value of flexibility and opportunity has triumphed. Prospectively, this shift seems to be giving a better work/life balance, more specified fields, increased creative awareness, and a happier workforce. One thing is for sure: for better or for worse, Millennials are shifting that narrative and giving new meaning to the creative environment of self-employment.
The rise of this type of career path has been a topic MANIFEST 36
FITNESS | SPRING 2018
T H E N E W ‘C YC L E ’ O F F I T N E S S SAMANTHA HOFFMAN The saying it’s “like riding a bicycle” has never been more literal. It’s a skill that, once learned, is never forgotten. Lucky for us, however, we don’t have to worry about the changing seasons or even balancing because cycling is one of the hottest trends in cardio fitness. Who needs running anyways? Cycling includes many benefits such as: cardiovascular health, strength and flexibility, a decrease in your stress levels and take off those few pesky pounds looming from the long, cold winter season. Group training was hot in 2017, and we can expect to feel the burn in 2018 as well. You can go to your local fitness center, gym, or spin boutique, like SoulCycle
and Flywheel, and find spin classes readily available nearby. These sessions are good for people at all levels because they are led by educated and energetic fitness professionals who designed this class to be motivational and effective for you. It is a great way to switch up your routine or to get you out and social. HIIT, or High-Intensity Interval Training, is a highly appealing and popular quality of spin classes. They are super efficient and burn a lot of calories, so you can get your cardio in quickly and effectively. This is a great alternative to those of us who don’t have as much time since it only takes thirty minutes to one hour.
MANIFEST 38
BEAUTY | SPRING 2018
E X F O L I AT E Y O U R WAY T O RADIANT SKIN RACHEL BRUBAKER
With the last dog days of winter undergo, we all seem to feel a bit sluggish towards the end of the season. Most of us are over the long, dreary, cold days and those warm spring months are calling our name. Our skin feels no different. For a quick skin pick-me-up leaving your face and body looking glowing, healthy, and blemish free we must exfoliate! Exfoliators can cost up to $100 for a single jar and often have endless amount of ingredients that sound like they could be in another language. They also may contain abrasive microbeads that can lead to skin breakage and premature aging. An all natural, homemade scrub can be nothing but beneficial for your complexion and wallet. Why exfoliate? The appearance of the outer layer of our skin is a reflection of what is happening underneath. When old skin cells begin to build up it is often noticeable due to dull and patchy symptoms. That build up can also lead to breakouts because when it is lacking moisture it will attempt to overproduce and retain all the oil it can get. When you use a gentle physical exfoliant you can successfully remove that first layer and allow new cells to breath and rejuvenate. Over-exfoliating can be irritating, so be sure to limit it to 2-3 times per week or even less for sensitive skin. When you most likely already have all of the ingredients in your kitchen, making this exfoliant is cheap and easy. This will fit perfectly in your Sunday rituals alongside your weekly meal prep or detox bath! Our favorite recipe is listed below. ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup brown sugar 2 T coconut oil (grapeseed/olive/almond are other beneficial topical oils) 1 T vanilla extract (any essential oil of choice will also leave skin smelling lovely) Simply combine ingredients, store in an airtight jar, and scrub on to wet skin from your head to your toes. Apply moisturizer immediately following treatment and enjoy soft, beautiful smelling skin that looks young and radiant.
MANIFEST
40
SPRING 2018 | FITNESS
BE A WINNER FOR DINNER NICOLETTE BERROSPI
After a long stressful day from school or work , the last thing you want to do is go home and cook . There is always the fast food option or frozen dinners but you know you always feel horrible after eating that .It is always nice to come home to a warm lovely dinner ,but in reality were not the Kardashians, we do not have chefs at our homes cooking dinner every night. Why not take some extra stress off your plate and meal prep. It is 2018, we have all seen, read, and heard about meal prepping, but never actually attempted to try it. I know when you hear meal prep you think of cooking all day, but I promise you it does not need to consume your whole daytime here to help you meal prep the simplest way possible so you can come home relax and not worry about cooking. 41 MANIFEST
The first step to meal prepping is to pick a day to cook, many prefer Sundays. After picking a day the next thing to do is make a list of what you want to eat, and I usually start with my protein. For example, I like chicken, steak, and salmon for protein. Next, figuring out your sides which can be any type of veggies, beans, or brown rice. When you are prepping I suggest you bake it all in the oven ,this way you can do other things like grab a glass of wine and catchup with your favorite tv show. Finally , head over to your local grocery store and pick up the items from your list ,make sure not to go on an empty stomach !