Revealing the Decades of Vogue

‘Vogue is the World’s leading fashion magazine, an undisputable arbiter of all things refined, a trend setter of glossy tastes and a flagship of the Conde Nast publishing empire.’

Revealing the decades of

www. condenast.ru

Created by Nicole Stanton

Vogue means ‘in style’ in French.

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Britain vs. America

About Vogue The first edition of Vogue was produced in America in 1892, founded by Arthur Turnure as a weekly publication in the United States, by 1902 the magazine was then acquired by Conde Nast Publishers. As the magazine became popular, the main focus turned to women and the price began to raise along with the amount of countries the magazine was published in (today Vogue is published in 17 different countries). Through the years Vogue adapted with the times by moving from hand drawn illustrations on the cover, to images, that represented society at that time. In 1932 the American Vogue for the first time ever, had placed a colour photograph on its cover. Surviving the Great Depression and World War II, Vogue transformed into a monthly publication by 1973. The most noted change came in 1988, as Vogue saw Anna Wintour become editor-in-chief, redefining the fashion magazine.

19161919 Conde Nast bought Vogue in 1905 one year before Turner’s death and gradually grew the publication. He changed it to a weekly magazine and also started Vogue overseas in 1910. After first visiting Britain in 1916, he started up British Vogue. He then went over to Spain, Italy and France in 1920 and set up Vogue there too.

The magazine’s number of publications and profit increased dramatically whilst Nast was in charge. By 1911 Vogue had gained a reputation it continues to maintain today.

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Vogue during the 1920’s provided mass exposure for popular styles and fashion. It functioned in America to provide sketches and patterns inspired by models in Paris, it also promoted french couture.

Vogue produced as many as thirty three illustrations of models from Paris and almost twice as many American dresses. To read Vogue in the 1920’s showed people in America what was needed to be a good, beautiful person.

Fashion in the 1920’s was changing from covering most of the body to wearing flapper dresses with raising hemlines. Coco Chanel produced their own style of flapper dresses, which could be worn in and outside.

Slave bracelets were worn and hair became shorter and shorter until it was in a ‘bob’ style cut. In 1924 Vogue even paid tribute to Pablo Picasso, who was from Spain but lived in Paris.

Coco Chanel

1924 Vogue cover inspired by Pablo Picasso

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Even though the depression was still happening in America, Hollywood said they would still rival Paris in setting ‘the style’.

In December 1930 Vogue announced ‘new lingerie echoes the mode’ and their plan was to streamline lingerie.

In 1932 Vogue introduced the first ever colour photographic cover, created by photographer Edward Steichen.

In 1935 Vogue reported on the trend for Hellenic inspired drapery at Paris collections.

Vogue’s Horst P. Horst captured headlines, grabbing women of the year.

Fashion during the 30’s had to change due to the depression and people not being able to splash out on clothes. American designers began to come into their own and people started to wear hats. Clothes had to last people as there was less disposable income, so fashion trends didn’t change as often. Dresses were simply printed, had a waistline and hemlines dropped again. Zips also became popular on garments as they were cheaper and lasted longer than buttons.

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Vogue replaced illustrations with photographs in the early 40’s, and their covers began to look a little bit similar to the ones we see today. The Vogue logotype started to take shape, although Vogue did mix this up in different issues, and the font we see in most of the covers, shown on the opposite page, is still used today.

Horst (Horst Paul Albert Bohrmann) had the models position in the shape of letters spelling ‘Vogue’, to create a cover celebrating Vogue’s 75th Birthday.

The fashion in the 1940’s were suits consisting of jackets with a skirt and blouse.

Stockings were off limits so women drew on their legs with eyeliner. Dior introduced dresses with long, full skirts and tight waists. High heels were introduced and hair was curled high on the front of the head.

The bottom right cover, features a US Vogue image, borrowed so that the British magazine could maintain the highest level of luxury while its most prized photographers are away at war.

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Edna Chase retired as editor in chief of Vogue in 1952, this was a massive loss for Vogue although she was quickly replaced by Jessica Daves. Chase is the reason Vogue is still going today. The 1950’s saw the recovery of the war and sales began to increase as more money was available to people.

The fashion in the 50’s was ‘Bill Blass’ style; blue jeans, poodle skirts, pony tails for girls and crew neck tops for boys. Saddle shoes and blue seude loafers were in. Teenagers were classed as a separate generation and James Dean created a fashion and attitude sensation.

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Jessica Daves was editor in chief until 1963. After she left Diana Vreeland became editor in chief from Harper’s Bazaar.

She had exceptional fashion knowledge and style. She began to aim the magazine at teenagers, who were part of the sexual revolution and focused more on contemporary fashion and editorial features. The fashion in the 1960’s saw bouffants on the women and knee length dresses, by the mid 60’s it was about hot pants and mini skirts, revealing legs and body curves. Women’s hair was either short or long (there was no in between) and turtle necks began to be seen in Vogue.

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Once Jessica Daves left, the next editor in chief was Grace Mirabella.

Vogue became a monthly issue in 1973 and went through drastic stylistic and editorial changes, this was because of the changes going on in the target audiences lifestyle at the time. These changes caused the sales of Vogue to triple from 400,000 to 1.2 million. Once she left Vogue she produced her own magazine but this stopped in 2000.

The fashion in the 70’s consisted of men having shoulder length hair and non traditional clothing became popular. Colourful patches, hot pants, platform shoes, earth shoes, clogs, tshirts and gypsy dresses also became popular. Knitted material and denim were used during this time.

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The editor in chief in the 1980’s was Anna Wintour, who was appointed in 1988. She is still the current editor in chief to this day, she is a massive icon in the fashion world with her chopped bob and sunglasses, she is recognised internationally.

She has a hugely demanding personality and it is said that the film ‘The Devil Wears Prada’ is based upon Wintour.

Fashion in the 80’s was inspired by Madonna, Calvin Klein and Flashdance. Films were the main inspiration for the way people looked. People wore tank tops, tight pants and leg warmers.

Tanning salons opened and Michael Jacksons glove was a huge icon, Nike also became popular.

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In 1991 Versace released four supermodels during one of his shows.

These were Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Niaomi Campbell and Christy Turlington. In April 1992 it was Vogue’s 100th year anniversary in America and in 1993 Kate Moss joined the four massive new supermodels. In 1994 Karl Lagerfield shot Kate Moss as a fairy snow princess for Chloe’s fall campaign. In November of the same year she was crowned the best model at the Venus Fashion Awards.

The style in the 90’s was Hip Hop style. DKNY and Tommy Hilfiger were popular. Khaki pants, polo shirts and denim shorts were often worn and a new interest in health and nutrition was spoken about, although the amount of people who got body piercings and tattoos increased.

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In October 2013 the average printing needed for Vogue was 11.3 million copies, whilst online the viewing numbers were 1.6 million. The average reading age is 38 and the gender split is 87% female/13% male.

Vogue have produced a healthy body initiative, which was signed and agreed by all international editors. The Australian editor commented on this by saying, “ Were moving away from thin girls, a year down the line what can Vogue do? If I was aware that a model was ill or had an eating disorder on a photoshoot, I would not let the shoot continue.�

Anna Wintour was blasted for putting Kim Kardashian and Kanye West on the cover of US Vogue but it appears as if her instincts were correct.

Despite outspoken critics, including celebrities, who said they would cancel their Vogue subscriptions over the cover, the issue flew off newsstands.

APRIL 2014