SIGNATUR E PRODUCT
15103948
CONTENTS PEOPLE _ 3
THE L ABO R ATORY OF COLOUR _ 5
THE BR AND_4
THE TECH NIC AL AND MATERIAL DNA _ 5
RE SE ARCH AND E XPERIMENTATION _ 4
MARKE T POSITION _ 7
WGSN AW TREND FOREC A ST_ 26, 27
CONSUMER PROFILE _ 8, 9, 10, 11
PRODUC T MAPPING _ 19, 20, 22
MARKE TING MIX _ 13
COMPE TI TOR ANALYSIS _ 21, 23
IRIDE SCENT WOODL AND TEL A TROU SER S _ 28, 29
SIGNATURE PRODUC T_ 14, 15, 16, 17
FINDINGS & GAP IN THE MARKE T_ 24
PRODUC T ANALYSIS _ 30, 31
PRODUC T INNO VATION CHART_ 32
PRODUC T TECH PACK _ 35, 36, 37, 38
PRODUC T LIFEC YCLE _ 33
SUSTAINABILIT Y_ 39
FIBRE CON TENT_ 4 0
DYEING PROPERTIE S _ 4 0
CODE OF E THIC S _ 39
PRODUC T DE VELOPMENT_ 34
2
RE SE ARCH _ 41
OBSTACLE S _ 41
SHIPPING ME THOD_ 43
IMPORT CHARGE _ 43
OPPORTU NITIE S _ 41
MANUFACTURING TR ANSPARENC Y_ 4 4
PACK AG ING _ 42
REFERENCE S _ 4 6, 47
MASSIMO OSTI_
CARLO RIVETTI_
Founder and designer for CP Company
Creative Director and President of Stone Island
Founder of Stone Island
3
The Brand_
Research and Experimentation_
E stablished in 1982 in R avarino, as a second -
I t w a s O s t i ’s i n g e n i o u s f a s c i n a t i o n w i t h t e x -
a r y b r a n d t o C . P. C o m p a n y . F o u n d e r, M a s s i m o Osti, who brought Stone Island into existence almost by chance. Its story began when Osti c a m e a c r o s s a n e w f a b r i c c a l l e d ‘ Te l a S t e l l a ’ b u t i t s e f f e c t s h a d l i t t l e t o d o w i t h t h e e x i s t i n g C . P. Company line. He plunged head first in fabric and dyeing research and created a collection of seven jackets. He then chose a compass as the logo for this collection in keeping the militar y a n d n a u t i c a l i n s p i r a t i o n b e h i n d t h e ‘ Te l a S t e l l a ’ fabric. Thus, the premium sportswear- Stone Island, was born.
tiles experimentation that has made Stone Isl a n d o n e o f t h e c l o t h i n g i n d u s t r y ’s l e a d i n g i n novators. Its designs had become a symbol of extreme research on fibres and textiles, applied to innovative design. Attention to detail, funct i o n a l i t y a n d f i n i s h i n g c o n f i r m s S t o n e I s l a n d ’s O G s t a t u s i n t h e w o r l d o f c o v e t a b l e s p o r t s w e a r.
4
The Technical and Material DNA_
The Laboratory of Colour _
S tone Island has its unique ability to
work on finished garments through its continuous experimentation with dyes and treatment. Over the years, the S p o r t s w e a r C o m p a n y ’s c o l o u r l a b o r a t o r y has developed over 60,000 different dye recipes (Flannels, 2018).
A
culture of research, experimentation, function and use defines Stone Island. Crea t e d i n d e s i g n l a b , S t o n e I s l a n d ’s I t a l i a n root lay in industrial design that is synonymous for its stripped-back aesthetics, focus on technical fabrics and functional design such as, Jackets constructed in nylon monofilament Highly reflective and thermos-sensitive fabrics, change colours with the variation of temperature Feather weight polyester cloth vacuum-coated with 100% stainless steel film used in aviation technology Non-woven material Kevlar® and polyester felt, rhomboidal nets in polyester used in construction industry coated with polyurethane (Four Marketing, 2018).
5
6
MARKET POSITION AND THE S TREE T WE AR M ARK E T_ B eing
a p r e m i u m s p o r t s we a r b r a n d w i t h a t e x t i l e r e s e a r c h p h i l o s o p hy, St o n e Is la n d f o u n d e d i t s s t r e n g t h s i n h i g h - r e s e a r c h e d g a r m e n t s . H o w e v e r, St o n e I s l a n d h a v e b u i l t a s t r o n g c u s t o m e r b a s e i n t h r o u g h i t s a b i l i t y t o f i l t e r i n t o t h e s t r e e t w e a r s e c t o r, a m a rket that is becoming highly valued by the brand in recent years. Its high global reach in both the UK and the North America market have led Rivetti to addressed that the young c o n s u m e r s t r e e t w e a r m a r k e t h a v e b e c o m e t h e b r a n d ’s g r o w t h a n d r e p u t a t i o n . I n a d d i t i o n , t h e r e h a s b e e n a s h i f t b a c k t o t h e S t o n e I s l a n d ’s s t y l e - n o s t a l g i c , c o m f o r t a b l e a n d h y p e r - m a s c u l i n i t y . I n 2 0 1 7, S t o n e I s l a n d a l s o c a m e t h e e i g h t m o s t - s e a r c h l a b e l , w h i c h i s quite an achievement for a non-fashion brand that caters almost exclusively to men.
(Cole, 2018)
(Eror, 2017) Although Stone Island have not tried to be a streetwear brand, the young consumers in t h e m a r k e t h a v e d i c t a t e d t h e b r a n d a s p a r t o f t h e s t r e e t w e a r c u l t u r e. M o r e o v e r, R i v e t t i is aware that young consumer are strongly attracted high-research products (Paninari, 2016). There f ore, Stone Island should lo ok to embr ace i t s new ident i t y w i t h new pr o duc t d e si g n s to at t r a c t t h e yo u n g e r m a r ke t , w h i l e co n t i n u e i n n ov at i n g i t s ga r m e n t te c h n o l o g y. 7
CONSUMER PROFILE_
The first subculture that helped define Stone Island were the Paninari youths i n I t a l y, w h i c h g ave the brand its cult status in the 80s.
(Leach, 2016)
8
Its unmistakable compass emblem has also been an inescapable part of UK street style for decades. Stone Island founded its success in the ‘terrace culture’ of the working-class football hooligans in the 80s and its brand identity has been inextricably tied to hooliganism since.
(Nowre, 2017) (Leach, 2016)
9
CONT’D_
S t o n e I s l a n d ’s e n d u r i n g l e g a c y has been as a symbol of manlin e s s d u e t o i t s p a s t . H o w e v e r, Stone Island remains its position as a contemporary point of reference for the younger generations.
(Porter, 2018)
Not only has Stone Island become an iconic menswear brand, but also in recent years, the brand has been adopted by the streetwear sector of young consumers. This surge of popularity with the streetwear m a r k e t o w e t h a n k s t o r a p p e r, Drake, for his interest in the brand.
10
Nowadays, Stone Island do not have a specif ic age target because their clothing speaks for everyone. This can be acknowledged when younger and adult generat i o n c o m e t o g e t h e r t o d i s c u s s S t o n e I s l a n d ’s a r c h i v e s pieces and cutting research in the events organised by the brand.
In addition, the three times collaboration with iconic streetwear brand, Supreme, fur ther drove Stone Isl a n d ’s i n t e r n a t i o n a l g r o w t h p r o c e s s . (Stone Island, 2018b)
11
12
MARKETING MIX_ U s i n g t h e B C G m a t r i x , I w i l l a n a l y s e S t o n e I s l a n d ’s p r o d u c t c o l l e c t i o n a n d s e e h o w S t o n e I s l a n d ’s c a t egory of products are performing.
HIGH
‘Stars’_
Printed T-shirts
The Stone Island Shadow Project Supreme x Stone Island collaboration
Trousers
AUTUMN WINTER_’018 Iridescent Tela Capsule
STARS CAHS COWS Knit wear and jumpers
‘Cash Cow’_
Bags
are produc t s that are iconic and re quire s the leas t promo tion be c aus e it holds a high mar ket share, due to continuous purchas e. The s e are the outer wear and k nit wear that f eature d the compass logo patch on the ar m.
QUESTION MARKS
‘Question mark’_
DOGS
pro duc t s sugge s t that they are s till purchas e d but not ver y of ten and do not generate as much money. Stone Island ’s pr inte d t-shit s have potential high grow th rate s but have a relatively low mar ket share. However, Stone Island ’s trous er s have a lower grow th rate and lower mar ket share than t-shir t s. More re cently, the new releas e of bags re ceive a high grow th but relatively low mar ket share as it is a produc t that ’s rarely bought.
Caps Footwear
Outerwear
are produc t s that has be en massively promote d and ver y popular. For Stone Island this will be the Supreme Collab or ation, Stone Island ’s Shadow Proje c t and it s F W18 Ir ide s cent Coating Tela c apsule be c aus e of it s newe s t look .
Towel
‘Dogs’ _
LOW HIGH
R E L AT I V E M A R K E T S H A R E
LOW 13
are produc t s that have outgrow n and would eventually s top producing. The s e are it s c aps, towels and s c ar f.
SIGNATURE PRODUC T_
To m e e t w i t h t h e d e m a n d s o f y o u n g m a l e s t r e e t w e a r c o n s u m e r s a n d t h e i r i n c r e a s i n g p urc has e of sp o r t s wear (Minte l, 2018), a new p air of c ar g o t r o u s er s w ill b e r e leas e d f o r AU T U M N W I N T E R _’019 w i t h a n i m p l e m e n t a t i o n o f s k i w e a r f u n c t i o n t o d i v e r s i f y S t o n e I s l a n d ’s e x i s t i n g ‘ q u e s t i o n m a r k ’ t r o u s e r c o l l e c t i o n . S t o n e I s l a n d ’s s u c c e s s i n b u s i n e s s i s b e i n g t h e p i o n e e r i n t e x t i l e s d e v e l o p m e n t . H o w e v e r, o u t o f t h e 2 0 p a i r s of trousers currently selling on its website, only 2 pairs of trousers which strikes S t o n e I s l a n d ’s p h i l o s o p h y o f i n n o v a t i v e t e x t i l e s a n d d y e i n g e x p e r i m e n t a t i o n . T h e s e a r e t h e I r i d e s c e n t C o a t i n g Te l a t r o u s e r s a n d t h e W h i t e T i g e r C a m o 5 0 F i l i p a n t s . I t h a s b e c o m e c l e a r t h a t S t o n e I s l a n d ’s t r o u s e r s w e r e n o t a s i n n o v a t i v e l y d e s i g n a s i t s outerwear and knitwear counterparts, therefore being the reason to why this product s i t s w i t h i n t h e ‘q u e s t i o n m a r k ’ o f t h e m a r ke t i n g m i x . I h a v e c h o s e n t o r e l e a s e t h i s p r o d u c t f o r F W19 b e c a u s e t h e c a r g o t r o u s e r s w i l l u n d e r- g o a d e s i g n t r e n d a s r e p o r t e d by WGSN.
14
A U T U M N W I N T E R _ ’ 0 1 8 I r i d e s c e n t Te l a C a p s u l e Garments made of iridescent nylon canvas bonded to a golden pink polyurethane film, using strong aesthetics to military d e t a i ls a n d f u n c t i o n a li t y. Outerwear pieces, fleece and trousers are characterised by details in Reflex Mat, a reflective nylon canvas with a matte coating made with thousands of glass microspheres. The conce p t i s a ls o a p p li e d t o k n i t we a r.
15
(Stone Island, 2018a)
16
This signature cargo trouser will be a dev e l o p m e n t f r o m t h e I r i d e s c e n t Te l a t r o u s e r s ( I T T h e r e a f t e r ) f r o m F W 1 8 I r i d e s c e n t Te l a Limited Edition capsule and follows the mili t a r y s i l h o u e t t e o f t h e I T T. T h i s p r o d u c t w i l l acquire great success because this collection r e f l e c t e d S t o n e I s l a n d ’s b u s i n e s s p h i l o s o p h y and captured what young consumer are attrac ted to Stone Island, highly-researched p r o d u c t s (B o o z e t a l, 19 8 2).
(Stone Island, 2018a)
17
(Porter, 2018)
18
PRODCUT MAPPING_ Product positioning helps to identif y what similar products is being of fered from its competitors in diff e r e n t m a r ke t l e ve l s (E a s e y, 20 0 9). I t i s i m p o r t a n t t o c o n s t r u c t 2 p r o d u c t m a p p i n g s, o n e s p e c i a l i s e d i n j u s t c a r g o t r o u s e r s a n d t h e o t h e r f o r m o r e t e c h n i c a l t r o u s e r s b e c a u s e S t o n e I s l a n d ’s m a r k e t s e g m e n t f a l l s u n d e r b o t h s t r e e t we a r a n d te c h n i c a l s t r e e t we a r c a te g o r y. T h e r e f o r e i t i s c r u c ia l to s e e t h e a c t i v i t y ha p p e n i n g i n b o t h a r e a s . U s i n g t h e I T T f r o m F W 1 8 c a p s u l e , t h i s w i l l h e l p i d e n t i f y w h e r e S t o n e I s l a n d ’s s i g n a t u r e t r o u s e r w o u l d s i t w i t h i n i t s c o m p e t i t o r ’s p r o d u c t s .
(Stone Island, 2018)
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PRODCUT MAPPING BY CARGO TROUSERS OFFERING_ High Priced
1 7 1 0 A LY X 9 S M
Value Market
Premium
Liam Hodges x This Is Never That
Low Priced 20
In terms of style, Supreme, St u s s y, T h i s i s n e ve r t h a t a n d Dickies were considered as S t o n e I s l a n d ’s I T T t o p 4 c o m petitors. v
COMPETITOR A N A LY S I S _
2
1
4
3
1. 1710 A LY X 9 S M 3. H e l i o t E m i l
2 . U N D E R CO V E R 4. Hyein Seo
S u r p e m e ’s S S 1 8 c a r g o p a n t s embraced the jigsaw camouf lage design and Stussy went all out displaying real life forest camo on its cargo trousers. Whereas Thisisnever that and Dickies both implemented the different tonal panelled design on their cargo trousers.
T h e a n a l y s i s f o u n d t h a t S t o n e I s l a n d ’s I T T w a s t h e m o s t e x p e n s i v e c a r g o t r o u s e r w i t h i n t h e p r e m i u m m a r k e t . A m o n g a l l o f t h e t h e t r o u s e r s , t h e a n a l y s i s f o u n d 1 7 1 0 A LY X 9 S M , U n d e r c o v e r , H e l i o t Emil and Hyesin Seo were the closest competitors for cargo trouser of fering in terms of price. Howe v e r, e a c h o f t h e i r t r o u s e r s d e s i g n r e m a i n s v e r y c o n s e r v a t i v e, o f f e r i n g o n l y i n a s i n g l e c o l o u r w a y, b l a c k . W h e r e a s H e l i o t E m i l ’s c a r g o t r o u s e r s e m b r a c e d a n a l t e r n a t i v e f a b r i c m a k i n g t h e t r o u s e r s look shiny and added extra trims with a drawstring strap across the knee. 21
2
1
3 1. D i c k i e s 3. T h i s I s N e v e r T h a t
4
2 . St u s s y 4. Supreme
PRODCUT MAPPING BY TECHNICAL TROUSERS OFFERING_ High Priced
X G O R E-T E X
Value Market
Premium
X SAMUEL ROSS This Is Never That X G O R E-T E X Low Priced 22
This analysis found that Of f-white x GoreTe x ’s c o l l a b o r a t i o n , O a k l e y x S a m u e l R o s s ’s c o l l a b o r a t i o n a n d T h e N o r t h F a c e ’s s k i t r o u s e r s w e r e S t o n e I s l a n d ’s I T T ’s b i g gest competitors. 4. Guerrilla Group 5. T H I S I S N E V E R T H AT X G O R E -T E X
4
1. OA K L E Y X S A M U E L R O S S
COMPETITOR A N A LY S I S _
3
1
2
2 . O F F W H I T E X G O R E -T E X
5
3. T H E N O R T H FAC E
G o r e - Te x a n d D u r a b l e W a t e r R e p e l l e n t ( D W R ) s e e m t o b e the most popular garment technologies that fashion brands are embracing in the market. Of f-White and Thisisnevert h a t h a v e c o m p r i s e d t h e u s e o f G o r e - Te x a n d p r o d u c e d a r a n g e na m e d u n d e r t h e te c h n o l o g y r e sp e c t i ve l y. G u e r r i lla Group also had its af fair with technology by of fering DWR t reatment to it s c roppe d c argo p ant s. The Nor th Face on the other hand have always been a pioneer in alpine fabric technology and this time, the ski trousers are water repell e n t a n d f u ll y s e a m s e a l e d by D r y Ve n t™ te c h n o l o g y. H owe v-
er I found that the colour scheme adopted by TNF is simple. Oakley has also tried to make its brand more streetwear relevant by collaborating with Samuel Ross, founder of street wear brand A- Cold-Wall. I would suggest that Oakley i s S t o n e I s l a n d ’s b i g g e s t c o m p e t i t o r b e c a u s e n o t o n l y O a k ley invests a lot of ef fort in its apparel technology with its Hydrofree and O Hyfrolix development, but their ability to collaborate with relevant youth brands has increased its brand awareness and consumers’ desire to purchase. 23
FINDING S AND G AP IN THE M ARK E T_ The premium market only of fers single coloured cargo pants Lack of interesting designs in the premium market More exciting designed c argo brands are being offered by brands that are frequently adopted by young consumers G o r e - Te x a n d D W R s e e m s t o b e the leading technology to be adopted by fashion brands Available skiwear do not of fer a wide range of colours and design (Trapped magazine, 2016)
(Trapped magazine, 2016)
24
(Stone Island, 2018)
25
W G S N A U T U M N W I N T E R _ ’ 0 19 TREND FORECASTING_
LIGHT MAGIC
S u b Tr e n d s : P l a n e t a r y e x p l o r e r, Wo o d l a n d Wo n d e r, C o s m i c N a t u r e
This trend explores a growing urge to connect with the outdoors. Styles are inf luenced by nature. Prints are rooted in the wilderness. Light Magic Direc tion: 1. D e si g ns r o ote d in nat u r e, ear t hy c am o u f lag e. Ce le b r at in g nat u r al landscapes with realistic representations of nature 2. Embrace dark and surreal themes 3. Woodland set ting inspired p r i n t s
(Ke t tenis s, 2018; Pag e t, 2018) 26
C O M M E R I C A L C O L O U R PA L E T T E _
Burmese Grey
Ta n n i n g
Deep Obsidian
Fire Opal
Purple Quartz
Lime Sherbet
PRINTS AND GRAPHICS_ 27
Copper Oxide
IRIDESCENT WOODLAND TELA TROUSER S WITH RELFE X MAT_
28
COMPOSITION_ FABRIC RESEARCH AND TREATMENT_
T rousers made of iridescent nylon can-
6 3 % P o l y a m i d e , 3 7 % P o l y e s t e r, p o l y u r e t h a n e . Te l a fabric is a net of impermeable transparent fabric. Th i s m ate r i a l h e l p s m a ke t h e t ro u s e r s wate r p ro o f, s u i t a b l e f o r s k i - w e a r.
vas bonded to a Lime Sherbet polyurethane film with parts in woodland camo and coated in Reflex Mat, a reflective fabric with a matte coating made with thousands of glass microspheres on a polyester base. When placed in the dark, Reflex Mat garments capture and reflect light sources. The coating makes the fabric water and wind resistant’ (Stone Island, 2018).
MARKET_
N ow that Stone Island do not have a
specific age market, the market for this product will be determined from the price of the trousers. Age: 16- 50 year-olds with a middle class income background who also takes leisure in skiing. G e n d e r : U n i s e x . D e s p i t e t h e b r a n d ’s strong masculine image, Rivetti have seen more women purchasing Stone Island clothing.
STYLE _
RRP_
R e g u l a r t a p e r e d f i t . Tw o p o c k e t s w i t h
T he recommended retail price will be £ 6 0 0 , £ 7 m o r e t h a n t h e I r i d e s c e n t Te l a Tr o u s e r s f r o m A U T U M N W I N T E R _ ’ 0 1 8 collection. The increase of £7 is due an added design element, opting for recycled content as packaging material and import charge as a result of Brexit.
d i a g o n a l z i p f a s t e n i n g . Tw o l a r g e b e l l ow p o c ke t s w i t h f l a p a n d Ve l c ro ® f a s tening. Removable compass logo patch. Elasticated waist with drawstring inside. Elasticated on leg bottoms.
29
P R O D U C T A N A LY S I S
COLOUR: Bitter Absinthe WG S N ’s L i g ht M a gic colour pa le tt. Wh e n a p p l ying this colour to te c hn i c a l f a b r i c s it he ighte ns the tre nd ’s e ffe c t. Th i s colour a ls o s hine s with o u t wa rd l y f uturis tic glow e s pe c ia lly i n t h e d a r k a nd offe rs dy na mic cont ra s t w he n m ixe d with the wood l a n d gra phic ric h colours.
DESIGN:Panelled trousers Co mb i ne d WG S N’s Au t u mn Wi nte r 1 9 / 2 0 9 0 ’s rave we ar and s now we ar i ns pi re d p ane lle d j o gg e r e le me nt fo r t ro u s e r s d e s i g n.
PRINT: Woodland Wonder WG S N ’s L i g ht M a gic s ub tre nd forc a s te d d e s i g n s e m b olde ne d with c a m o prints i n s p i re d by e e rie, fore s t tra ils.
L
30
Trims:Cargo pockets WG S N’s Li ght M ag i c s u b t re nd, Plane t ar y exp lo re r ’s d i s t i nc t i ve hi gh te ch app ro ach to u t i li t y clo t hi ng.
DESIGN:Tapered Cargo Co m b i n e d WGS N’s Autumn Winte r 1 9/ 20 c a rgo trous e r e le me nt of t a p e re d t rous e r to c re ate a be yond military look .
T r i m s : R e fl e c t i v e R e fl e x M a t WG S N’s Li ght M agi c s u b t re nd, Co s mi c Nat u re i ns pi re d g lowi ng, e ne rg e t i c q u ali t y wi t h re t ro re fle c t i ve t r i m.
31
PRODUC T INNOVATION CHART_
N E W N E S S TO T H E CO M PA N Y
HIGH
LOW LOW
NEW PRODUCT LINE
NEW TO THE WORLD PRODUCTS
MODIFICATIONS TO EXISTING PRODUCTS
EXTENSIONS TO EXISTING PRODUCT LINES
COST REDUCTIONS
REPOSITIONING EXISTING PRODUCTS
N E W N E S S TO T H E M A R K E T
HIGH
(Hooley et al, 2016)
The development of the signature trouser is an e x t e n s i o n t o S t o n e I s l a n d ’s e x i s t i n g I T T i n W h e a t . While keeping all its trimmings and patterns the same, the only modification differentiating from the signature trouser from the exisiting trouser is the change in colour and print. Using the product innovation chart, the magnitude of risk for delivering this product for Stone Island and the market is identified. Since this product is an extension that s u p p l e m e n t s t h e S t o n e I s l a n d ’s e s t a b l i s h e d p r o d uct line and only the print of trouser is something relatively new to the brand, this product presented a mid-risk for Stone Island. Stone Island operates in the premium and the streetwear market. For the premium market, this extension is relatively new to premium market but in the streetwear market, t h e s i g n a t u r e p r o d u c t ’s w o o d l a n d p r i n t h a v e a l r e a d y been used serval times by many popular streetwear brand. Therefore, this signature trouser can be labelled as mid-high risk to the market.
(Stockx, 2018)
(Stussy, 2018)
32
PRODUCT LIFE CYCLE_
SALE
Easey (2009) propose that all products have a finite lifecycle that can be plotted over a period, using the biological analogy of growth, development or decline. Style define garments that rise and decline continually over a long period of time and in fashion we have seen the implementation of outdoor elements coming and going for fashion clothing, thus created a style. The development of the cargo trouser follows the trend derived from WGSN and therefore, the cargo trouser would normally be considered as style in its product lifecycle. But due to the product being an extension from the Limited Edition capsule, its limited aspect will become collectors’ item in years to come and the value of this trouser will hold much longer than other products, if not increasing it. For that reason, this product follows the sales of a fashion classic lifecycle.
TIME (Trapped Magazine, 2016)
33
PRODUCTDEVELOPMENT_ S T O N E I S L A N D AUTUMN WINTER_’019
1
FRONT
3
2
BACK
T h i s p a i r w a s t o o s i m i la r t o t h e St u s s y r e a l t r e e c a r g o p a n t s a n d Pa la c e ’s r e a l l i f e f o r e s t j e a n s
FRONT
BACK
I n a n I n s t a g r a m s u r ve y o f 4 6 p e o p l e, t h e ave r a g e a n s we r f o r t h e i r c h o i c e o f t r o u s e r w a s r e ve a l e d a s t h e s e c o n d p a i r.
34
FRONT
BACK
T h i s p a i r i s s i m i la r t o t h e s e c o n d p a i r b u t t h e wo o d la n d p r i n t a t t h e k n e e panel is slighty faded.
P R O D U C T TECH PACK _
FRONT
BACK
SEASON: AUTUMN WINTER_’019 FA B R I C : 6 3 % Polyamid, 37% Polyester, PolyLAUNCH DATE: OCTOBER 19 urethane SIZE:M, EU50 DEPARTMENT: SPORTSWEAR CO U N T RY O F M A N U FAC T U R E : I TA LY
GRAPHIC
STYLE NUMBER:7115309F2. V0027M
TRUE TIMBER HTC
ST Y L E N A M E : I R I D E S C E N T W O O D L A N D T E L A T R O U S E R S W I T H R E F L E X M A T
35
FABRIC REFERENCE
PANTONE ® 13-0535 TCX WITH GADIENT V
8 5 CM
LARGE BELLOW POCKETS: 2 with flap and V elcro® fastening
2 7 CM
3 9 CM
1 8 CM
Ri g ht
1 8 CM
Left
13 CM
ZI PS: 2 x A QUA SE A L®in black. Y KK
1 1 0 CM
17.5 CM
2 0 CM
16 CM
A
18 C M
9 . 3 CM
20 CM
2 CM
16 CM 1 0 CM
B
B
BUTTONS: 2 x Rod cast STONE ISLAND Brand L16 3/8”
B
8 4 CM
5 .8 CM
A
WHITE COMPASS BADGE: Woven 100% Polyester. St o ne I s l a nd brand
B
1 CM
17 CM SEASON: AUTUMN WINTER_’019 LAUNCH DATE: OCTOBER 19 DEPARTMENT: SPORTSWEAR
FABRIC: 63% Polyamid, 37% Polyester, Polyurethane SIZE:M, EU50
CO U N T RY O F M A N U FAC T U R E : I TA LY
GRAPHIC
STYLE NUMBER:7115309F2. V0027M
TRUE TIMBER HTC
ST Y L E N A M E : I R I D E S C E N T W O O D L A N D T E L A T R O U S E R S W I T H R E F L E X M A T
36
FABRIC REFERENCE
PANTONE ® 13-0535 TCX WITH GADIENT V
End Fol d l abel centre b ack wais tband. S atin woven and printed.
MAIN FABRIC: THREAD: FACTORY: Nylon Canvas 100% Ravarino Polyester Modena, Italy
Drawstring placed inner front of waistband
SECOND FABRIC:Polyurethane film and Glass microspheres Drawstring: 100% Cotton Supplier: Phoenix Flame Waist and Tapered leg: Woven elastic tape, white Holdings Limited Waist
85
Leg
110
Inner leg
84
Panel A: Nylon Canvas Panel B: Relex Mat Bellow Pockets White Compass badge Width at end
Ca re l a b e l s pla ced i nsi de of t he r i g ht sea m of t rosu er
A
I nte r nat i ona l Ca re la belli ng i ns t ruc t i on:
16x20 10x16x18x20 17.5x18 9.3x5.8 17
SEASON: AUTUMN WINTER_’019 LAUNCH DATE: OCTOBER 19 DEPARTMENT: SPORTSWEAR
FABRIC: 63% Polyamid, 37% Polyester, Polyurethane SIZE:M, EU50
CO U N T RY O F M A N U FAC T U R E : I TA LY
GRAPHIC
STYLE NUMBER:7115309F2. V0027M
TRUE TIMBER HTC
ST Y L E N A M E : I R I D E S C E N T W O O D L A N D T E L A T R O U S E R S W I T H R E F L E X M A T
37
FABRIC REFERENCE
PANTONE ® 13-0535 TCX WITH GADIENT V
Iri d es cent ny l o n c a nva s b ond e d to a L im e Sh er bet, Pa ntone 1 3 - 0 5 3 5 TC X, po l y ureth an e film
St y l e: Wo o dl an d S o urce: True Tim b e r H TC Pr intin g s t y l e: D i g i t a l Pri nt i ng Pr inted o n ny l o n c a nva s fini s he d w ith Tel a
R e lex M at, a re fl e c ti ve ny lon c anvas w i th a matte coati ng mad e w i th thou s and s of g las s mi c ros p he re. M atte colou r, Pantone 1 9 -0 2 0 1 T PX
SEASON: AUTUMN WINTER_’019 LAUNCH DATE: OCTOBER 19 DEPARTMENT: SPORTSWEAR
FABRIC: 63% Polyamid, 37% Polyester, Polyurethane
GRAPHIC
FABRIC REFERENCE
SIZE:M, EU50
CO U N T RY O F M A N U FAC T U R E : I TA LY
STYLE NUMBER:7115309F2. V0027M
TRUE TIMBER HTC
ST Y L E N A M E : I R I D E S C E N T W O O D L A N D T E L A T R O U S E R S W I T H R E F L E X M A T
38
PANTONE ® 13-0535 TCX WITH GADIENT V
SUSTAINABILIT Y_ There is a rising impor t ance of sus t ainabilit y in f ashion. Is Stone Island sus t ainable? How c an Stone Island be more sus t ainable?
CODE OF ETHICS _
S tone
Island calls itself ‘a company with an ethical heart’ (Stone Island, 2018: 4) - Promote activities and processes as compatible as possible with the environment - Sustainable use of natural resources - High-tech solution for environmental protection - Ask suppliers to work respecting animal welfare, adopting human and healthy practice towards animals - Guarantee maximum transparency in the performance of work - Guarantee equal opportunities for all - Maintain safe workplaces (Rabkin, 2018)
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FIBRE CONTENT _
M ost
o f S t o n e I s l a n d ’s g a r m e n t a r e p r o d u c e d u s ing synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon. One side of the eco-sustainability debate is that these non-cellulosic synthetic fibres are non-biodegradable and concerns are placed highly on the usage of petroleum for its fibre production. On the other hand, synthetic fibre production have eased the strain on agriculture and requires far less water for its production than producing the same amount of cotton (Hallet and Johnston, 2014). In addition, the quality and the price of the signature product will become an investment piece for customer and future collectors. Therefore, there is a very little chance that this garment will go to waste.
(Rabkin, 2018)
DYEING PROPERTIES _
T he
use and production of synthetic dye have negatively influenced the eco-balance of nature. Not only is the production of synthetic dyes dependent on petrochemical source, but some of the dyes contain carcinogenic amines which causes serious health haza r d s ( P u r w a r, 2 0 1 6 ) . A t t h e m o ment, it is unclear whether Stone Island uses any natural dye in its dyeing process.
Cu r re n t l y, S t o n e I s l a n d d o n o t o f f e r re c yc l e d s y n t h e t i c garments in their product mix. But the brand should utilise its impressive laboratory facilities to produce garments using eco-polyester made from recycled PET p l a s t i c b o t t l e s t o o f f e r ‘e c o ’ p o l y e s t e r p r o d u c t s . M a r k s and Spencer have already offered eco-polyester in their menswear gilets and trousers (M&S, 2010).
(Rabkin, 2018) 40
(Rabkin, 2018)
DYEING PROPERTIES _
O
B S TAC L E Natural dyes are mostly used to dye natural fibres like cotton, wool a n d s i l k . H o w e v e r, t h e m a j o r i t y o f garments Stone Island produced have synthetic fibre properties. This can make the dyeing process of natural dyes to synthetic fabrics almost impossible, due to syntheti c f i b r e ’s h y d r o p h o b i c n a t u r e .
(Rabkin, 2018)
DYEING PROPERTIES _
DYEING PROPERTIES _
R ESEARCH
O PPORTUNITIES
There are now an array of studies on natural dyeing of synthetic filament like polyester and nylon (Motaghi and Shahidi, 2014; Punwar et al, 2016), 2 prominent f i b r e s u s e d i n S t o n e I s l a n d ’s g a r m e n t p r o duction. Researchers have concluded that the dyeing of synthetic fabrics with natural dye requires pre-treatments to gene r a t e h y d r o p h i l i c g r o u p s ( P u n w a r, 2 0 1 6 ) . This showed the application of natural dye on synthetic fabrics is possible and through more research, this method can be standardised for successful commercial use. 41
There has been high demands to use natural dyes for developing a greener textiles process and sustainability has also been a high influe n c e r f o r A U T U M N A N D W I N T E R _ ’ 0 1 9 ’s t r e n d . Therefore, Stone Island should start looking at diversifying dye techniques at its dyeing facilities to maximising the use of natural dyes and target the niche market for sustainably dyed g a r m e n t s . H o w e v e r, i t s h o u l d b e n o t e d t h a t the cost of garments would increase due to the technique have not yet been commercialised and therefore remains exclusive.
PACKAGING_
T he UN defines single use plastic as ‘item intended
to be used only once before they are thrown away or r e c y c l e d ’ b u t o n l y 9 % o f t h e w o r l d ’s p l a s t i c h a s b e e n recycled and the rest ends up in landfills, oceans and the environment. The damage of single-use plastic have caused has been phenomenon and this has come t o r e p r e s e n t t h e e p i t o m e o f t o d a y ’s t h r o w a w a y c u l ture. Stone Island is one of the many clothing company that individually packs its garments in single-use plastic bags, and these materials are hard to recyc l e ( S t r ä h l e a n d M ü l l e r, 2 0 1 7 ) . F o r S t o n e I s l a n d t o b e more sustainable in its packaging, for this product I opted for using packaging material with recycled content to reduce the amount of packaging waste. This wo u l d h a ve a n e f f e c t o n c o s t s l i g h t l y.
(Stone Island, 2018)
42
(Streetwear blog, 2018)
IMPORT CHARGE _
SHIPPING METHOD _
T ransportation of the signature product from Stone A t the moment there are not tariffs on the moveI s l a n d ’s f a c t o r y i n I t a l y t o t h e U K w i l l t a k e p l a c e b y t r u c k , w h i c h u s u a l l y t a k e s 4 - 6 d a y s ( Tr a n s p o r t e c a , 2018). Unlike premium fashion brands, Stone Island do not hold any fashion shows to showcase its latest seasonal collection. Instead, Stone Island holds exhibitions. Therefore speed to market is not necessarily demanded by the brand, thus Stone Island can find a low emission transportation company who specialises in truck transport to import its product from Italy to the UK.
43
ment of goods between EU member country Italy and t h e U K . H o w e v e r, t h e U K i s d u e t o e x i s t t h e E u r o p e a n Union by March 2019 and this may affect the importation of the signature trousers to the UK in October 2019. The effect is unlikely to be outline till next year but it can be expected that there will be a tariff charge on the importation of goods from Italy to the U K ( Tr a n s p o r t e c a , 2 0 1 8 ) .
MANUFACTURING TRANSPARENCY _
T h e l a c k o f t r a n s p a re n c y h a ve c o s t l i ve s i n t h e g a r m e n t i n d u s t r y. Fa s h i o n c o m p a n i e s have the responsibility ensure the rights of workers are respected, working conditions are met to standards and the environment is safeguarded throughout their supply chain. However this is impossible if the companies do not know where their products a re m a d e . Th i s i s w h y t r a n s p a re n c y i s e s s e n t i a l a n d m o re c r u c i a l l y, c o m p a n i e s h a ve to s h a re t h i s i n f o r m at i o n p u b l i c l y ( Fa s h i o n re vo l u t i o n , 2 0 1 8 ; K a s hya p, 2 0 1 8 ) . Sto n e I s l a n d ’s C o d e o f C o n d u c t s h a r e d i t s p o l i c i e s a n d c o m m i t m e n t s t o h u m a n r i g h t s a n d environment protec tion, but it is unclear in exac tly what they do. O n the other hand, R a b k i n ( 2 0 1 8 ) h a d s h e d l i g h t a b o u t S t o n e I s l a n d ’s m a n u f a c t u r i n g p r o d u c t i o n u n d e r o n e o f H i g h s n o b i e t y ’s e d i t o r i a l . H e w r o t e t h a t S t o n e I s l a n d m a k e s e v e r y p r o t o t y p e first in its Ravarino headquarters and if the brand need to outsource its manufacturing t h e n i t w i l l i n s t a l l t h e m a c h i n e i n t h e m a n u f a c t u r e r ’s f a c t o r y a n d t u t o r i t s w o r k f o r c e . Therefore, it can be argued that Stone Island cares about the emancipation of workers in the sense that they put effort into teaching people how to make their products. A s a re s u l t, t h e wo r ke r s h a ve g a i n e d a n e x t r a l a b o u r s k i l l. Co n ve r s e l y, t u t o r i n g m i g h t seem like a sustainable approach to enhance workers’ condition but in fact it could be viewed as an economic incentive for Stone Island. This is because it is cheaper to teach w o r k e r s f r o m l o w - w a g e l a b o u r c o u n t r i e s h o w t o p r o d u c e t o S t o n e I s l a n d ’s p r o d u c t s t h a n p a y i n g f o r l o c a l I t a l i a n l a b o u r w h o s e i n c o m e w a g e i s m u c h h i g h e r. S t o n e I s l a n d needs to work on its manufacturing transparency by providing more information about how its products are made.
(Rabkin, 2018)
44
(Rabkin, 2018)
45
REFERENCES_ ASDA. (2018) Black cargo trousers. [Online] [Accessed on 9th of November 2018.] https://direct.asda.com/george/ men/trousers/cargo-trousers/G004882300,default,pd. html?cmpid=ppc-_-george-_-ggle-pla-_-OD23MENS-_-_-dskwid-s92700035075967948_dc&ds_rl=1238816&ds_ rl=1255529&gclid=CjwKCAiA_ZTfBRBjEiwAN6YG4aiDe1mQivwF4R-AQlxrc76RYMa45PpGDeBc45CodUe_PK2NR6FoXRoCcCgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Booz, A. and Hamilton (1982). New Product Management for the 1980s. New York: Booz, Allen and Hamilton Inc. Clark, J. (2015) Fashion merchandising. London: Macmillan Education. Eror, A. (2017) Drake 7 streetwear are running Stone Island for soccer fans. Highsnobiety. [Online image] [Accessed on 18th of November 2018] https://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/06/14/drakestone-island/ Flannels. (2018) The Engineering guide: Stone Island. Flannels. [Online] [Accessed on 18th of November 2018] http://stylenews. flannels.com/post/the-engineering-guide-stone-island Fashion revolution. (2018) Why transparency matter. [Online] [Accessed on 12th of November 2018] https://www.fashionrevolution. org/about/transparency/ Four Marketing. (2018) Stone Island. [Online] [Accessed on 10th November 2018] http://www.fourmarketing.com/our-brands/menswear/stone-island/ Grailed. (2018) Supreme cargo pants jigsaw print. Grailed. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://www.grailed.
com/listings/5023186-supreme-jigsaw-cargo-pant Hallet, C. and Johnston, A. (2014) Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide: Natural and Man-made Fibres. Laurence King Publishing. HBX. (2018) Guerrilla Group Cropped cargo pants. HBX. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://hbx.com/categories/pants HBX. (2018) Heliot Emil tech cargo pants HBX. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://hbx.com/categories/ pants HBX. (2018) Hyein Seo Military Cargo Pants. HBX. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://hbx.com/categories/ pants HBX. (2018) Oakley x Samuel Ross jogging pants. HBX. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://hbx.com/categories/pants HBX. (2018) Thisisineverthat Work Pants. HBX. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://hbx.com/categories/ pants HBX. (2018) Thisisneverthat x Gore-Tex city peak pant. HBX. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://hbx.com/categories/pants HBX. (2018) Undercover cargo pants. HBX. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://hbx.com/categories/pants HBX. (2018) 1017 ALYX 9SM holster pants. HBX. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://hbx.com/categories/ pants
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Hooley, G., Piercy, N., Nicoulaud, B. and Rudd, J. (2016) Marketing strategy and competitive positioning. 6th edition. Pearson. Kashyap, A. (2018) Soon there won’t be much to hide. HRW [Online] [Accessed on 12th of November] https://www.h¬rw.org/world-report/2018/essay/transparency-in-apparel-industry Ketteniss, V. (2018) commercial colour update A/W 19/20: men and young men. WGSN. [Online] 9th December 2018 [Accessed on 12th of November 2018] https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/80715/page/10 Leach, A. (2016) Dear Americans, Here’s What You Need to Know About Stone Island. Highsnobiety. [Online image] [Accessed on 18th of November 2018] https://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/03/21/ stone-island-history/ Mintel. (2018) What fashion items men buy and how much they spend [Online] March 2018 [Accessed on 13th of November 2018] http://academic.mintel.com.ezproxy.mmu.ac.uk/display/885979/?highlight#hit1 Motaghi, Z. and Shahidi, S. (2014) ‘Development of polyester-wool fabrics dye ability using plasma sputtering.’ Research journal special issue. RMUTP international conference: textiles and fashion 2012 M&S. (2010) Marks & Spencer to introduce recycled clothing labels. October 2010. [Online] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https:// corporate.marksandspencer.com/media/press-releases/2010/recycled_clothing_labels
Nowre. (2017) Stone Island. Nowre. October 2017. [Online Image] [Accessed on 18th of November 2018] http://nowre.com/editorial/272910/xinmaide-stone-islandshedechuanqudajiama/ Paget, N. (2018) Design development trousers A/W 19/20. WGSN. [Online] 28th April 2018 [Accessed on 12 November 2018] https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/78610/page/5 Pantone. (2018) Pantone 13-0530 TPX Lime Sherbet. [Online] [Accessed on 12th of November 2018] https://www. pantone.com/color-finder/13-0530-TPX Pavarini, M. (2016) Stone Island the brand that adopted by the streetwear crew. Sportswear International [Online] 5 May [Accessed 10 November 2018] https://www.sportswear-international.com/news/portrait/Interview-StoneIsland-the-brand-adopted-by-the-streetwear-crew-10577 Porter, T. (2018) In photos: Stone Island presents London. Crack Magazine. [Online image] [Accessed on 18th November 2018] https://crackmagazine.net/article/live-reviews/ in-photos-stone-island-presents-london/Purwar, S. (2016) ‘Application of natural dye on synthetic fabrics.’ Internaitona journal of home science. 2(2), pp.283-287. Punwar, S., J¬ain, M. Bothra, U., Yadav, P., Juneja, J. and Srivastava, C. (2016) ‘dope dyeing of polyacrylonitrile filaments with Ratanjot.’, Indian Journal of fibre and textiles research. 41(1), pp. 84-88. Rabkin, E. (2018) How Stone Island maintains its edge. Highsnobiety. [Online] [Accessed on 12th of November 2018] https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/stone-islandbrand-profile/ Rabkin, E. (2018) How Stone Island maintains its edge.
Highsnobiety. [Online image] [Accessed on 12th of November 2018] https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/stone-islandbrand-profile/ Real Clobber. (2016) RC talks to Josh Bullen, Senior Designer at Stone Island. [Online] [Accessed on 12th November 2018] https://realclobber.com/josh-bullen-stone-island/ Stähle, J. and Müller, V. (2017) Key Aspects of Sustainability in Fashion Retail, In Strähle, J. (ed) Green Fashion retailing. Singapore: Springer. Stickpng. (2018) Stone Island logo transparent. Stickpng. [Online image] [Accessed on 18th of November 2018] http://www.stickpng.com/img/icons-logos-emojis/ shop-logos/stone-island-logo Stockx. (2018) Supreme the North Face nuptse leaves. Stockx. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://stockx.com/supreme-the-north-face-nuptse-leaves Stone Island. (2018a) Iridescent coating Tela. [Online image] [Accessed on 18th of November 2018] https:// www.stoneisland.com/sk/stone-island/stone_island_iridescent_section Stone Island. (2018b) Supreme. [Online image] [Accessed on 18th of November 2018] https://www.stoneisland.com/ sk/stone-island/stone_island_supreme_section Streetwear Blog (2018). Stone Island’s fall/winter 2018 collection shines bright in new editorial. Streetwear blog. [Online image] [Accessed on 18th of November] http:// streetwearblog.co/stone-islands-fall-winter-2018-collection-shines-bright-in-new-editorial/ Stussy. (2018) W’s real tree Reagan cargo pants. Stussy. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] 47
https://www.stussy.co.uk/store/realtree-reagan-cargo-pant?color_item=40 The Independent. (2018) 11 best men’s ski and snowboard trousers 2018/2019. The Independent. October 2018. [Online] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://www. independent.co.uk/extras/indybest/outdoor-activity/winter-sports/best-mens-ski-snowboard-trousers-a7432021.html The Independent. (2018) 11 best men’s ski and snowboard trousers 2018/2019. The Independent. October 2018. [Online image] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://www. independent.co.uk/extras/indybest/outdoor-activity/winter-sports/best-mens-ski-snowboard-trousers-a7432021.html Transporteca. (2018a) Importing after Brexit. [online] [Accessed on 14th of November 2018] https://transporteca. co.uk/importing-brexit/ Transporteca. (2018b) Importing from Italy. [Online] [Accessed on 14th November 2018] Trapped Magazine. (2016) Supreme and Stone Island SS16 Drop Includes Heat-Reactive Jackets. Trapped Magazine. [Online Image] [Accessed on 18th of November 2018] http:// trappedmagazine.com/supreme-stone-island-ss16-drop-includes-heat-reactive-jackets/ WGSN. (2018) Men’s Prints & Graphics Forecast A/W 19/20: Light Magic. [Online] 27th Feb [Accessed on 12th November 2018] https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/77385/page/2 Yeung, G. (2016) From Piste to pavement: on streetwear’s love affair with skiwear. Hypebeast [Online] 21 Nov. [Accessed on 10th of November 2018] https://hypebeast.com/2016/11/ from-piste-to-pavement