MENO by Marks and Spencer
2|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WITH MENOPAUSE MENOBYM&S.COM
3|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
DISCLAIMER: all of the spelling of ‘woman’ and ‘women’ will be respell to womxn, as this range aim to be inclusive of all womxn in our society (of colour, non-binary, transgender womxn/mxn and each different self-distinguishing womxn out there).
4|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
6 M&S 10 Market Situation 12
14 18
23 28
Market and Medical Trend
Consumer Trend, Opportunity and Strategic Advantage Competitors and Inspired Price Poing Customers and SWOT
MENO by M&S: The Range
The Material and Technology
32 36 42
45
54
58
Sourcing Manufacturers Garment Specification Sheets Swing Tags Specification Sheets
Estimated Buying Price
Estimated Retail Price
70
PEES
Trend: Silhouette, Colour, Sizes
64
1 IN 3
( a little)
Critical Path
72
Distribution
74
Forcast Sale Plan
80
References
87
Appendices
MENOBY
5|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
WOMXN
HERSELF
M&S.COM
6|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S EST. 1884
Since March 2019, the trend of female employment in the UK has seen a considerably positive outcome. The female employment rate extended to 71.4%, evidencing highest it has been since comparable records began in 1971 (Powell, 2019). Out of the 15.3million women were employed, over 3.5million of those were womxn aged over 50 (Rejuvage, 2019). It is too familiar that this is an age which transforms a womxn’s life completely (Bhutani et al., 2013) and coming to terms with symptoms of their biological inconvenience- menopause. Yet, there are no widely recognised practices to help and support womxn to manage their menopause symptoms at work. Assuming 174,200 womxn will experience severe symptoms of menopause which effect on their ability to work, then the absence of these 174,200 womxn aged between 50-54 will cost the economy at least £3 million in absence related cost (Rejuvage, 2019). Economic impact aside, the psychosocial influence on the way in which a womxn approaches and responds to menopause can also tear her self-confidence to shreds and leave adept (Bhutani et al., 20113). Urinary incontinence is a common recognised effect of menopause, this can make the most confident, and successful women feel embarrassed to do things or feeling sexy. Although urinary incontinence can be a problem for womxn of all ages, varying from mild to server incontinence. Overall, the impact of incontinence can be debilitating and women are often too embarrassed to seek help (NAMS, 2019).
Marks & Spencer employs a workforce of over
74%
85,000
.
of its workforce are female. As a corporate company,
M&S has a very successful approach to menopause in terms of supportive measures for the transition. In 2015, the company introduced a ‘Manage your menopause’ microsite, as well as, enforcing robust policies covering any menopause-related absences. Respectively, both approaches received extremely positive feedback from female employees (Gov, 2013; Rejuvage, 2019). M&S truly understands the economic cost due to menopause related symptoms experienced in the women workforce. This is why it is crucial to transcend the menopause supportive energy from the work environment onto the shop floors. Moreover, M&S’s formula for making the perfect underwear has seen swathes of womxn buying nothing else but M&S’s underwear for decades.
7|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
Accordingly, M&S dominates the UK’s underwear market with more than one in four womxn buying from its stores (Morely, 2018). This portfolio proposes a new menopause lingerie collection to commence in SS20-
MENO by Marks and Spencer
The new collection will specialise in providing M&S’s loyal customers with a range of leak-proof underwear, featuring a 4 layer protective technology, to support those who experience incontinence, shapewear vests and stylish bralette vests. This collection is aim to help womxn to deal with the reality of menopause and help all women to be prepared with specialised products, reassuring them that they are not alone. In tandem, the new collection will support M&S’ existing Cool Comfort™ collection to make M&S a one stop place to help alleviate womxn’s biological inconveniences with leak proof lingerie and hot flush cooling lingerie.
8|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S sells
60
million
pairs of knickers and
23
million year
bras
(The Telegraph, 2018)
a
9|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
10|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S REPORT
MARKET SITUATION
The feminine hygiene and adult incontinence market is predicted grow to $503 million by 2022
MARKET ANALYSIS SUPPLIERS
Similarly, the sales of incontinence product have driven overall growth for the feminine hygiene and sanitary protection market in recent years. Based on the population of women and retirees due to increase, the feminine hygiene and adult incontinence market is predicted grow to £503 million by 2022. Yet there are stillroom for growth. Mintel (2018) reported out of the 40% of women who experience incontinence, only 19% of womxn uses pads designed for bladder leakage and 7% uses pads designed for menstrual flow. These indications adduced to explain why the market for incontinence products has not reached its truest potential, as womxn are choosing to use menstrual products over specialise incontinence products. Nevertheless, amongst products used to deal with incontinence, panty liners have the greatest penetration. This reflects how light bladder leakage is the most commonly experienced incontinence issue (Mintel, 2018a). Therefore, what will stop womxn from substituting dedicated incontinence underwear for standard panty liners is that the M&S’s menopausal collection will offer a much comfortable, stylish and sustainable approach to the single-use panty liners.
RANGE PLAN
Brands are communicating messages of positivity to older womxn, from menopause to incontinence, which are often shrouded in stigma. Currently, business have already been using marketing and product innovation to alleviate the biological inconvenience of being a woman (Friend and Houghton, 2018). For instance, Holland and Barrett launched a campaign- Me.No.Pause - to break the silence-surrounding menopause. The success of its campaign has positioned the health food store as the goto retailer for natural remedies that can help to counter women’s physical and emotional menopausal symptoms (Houghton et al., 2019). Clearly, there are still gaps in the market for M&S to break the silence of menopause and help cater the needs of menopausal womxn. The market for innovation in wellness is set to grow in 2020 and beyond (Palmer, 2018) and the global menopausal hot flush market for hormone treatment has been predicted to reach $5.28 billion by 2023 (Walsh, 2018).
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
11|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
12|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S REPORT
MARKET & MEDICAL TREND
NO to Vaginal Mesh Implant
MARKET ANALYSIS SUPPLIERS
RANGE PLAN
A new type of body positivity is emerging. This one focuses on womxn’s biology as well as her physical size. It is crucial that M&S should pave a new range to make women feel body positive, even with the barriers that they might face when experiencing menopause in the future. The embarrassment of urinary incontinence can leave womxn feeling desperate for help. Many have even undergone surgical procedures, for instance, the vaginal mesh implant to treat urinary incontinence. But the reality of this medical operation has seen thousands of womxn complain of devastating side effects, including chronic pain, organ erosion, loss of the ability to walk, difficulties with sexual intercourse (NHS, 2018) and have even sadly claimed a life where she died from complications related to her vaginal mesh implant (Marsden, 2017). The considered estimate of severe side effects from the treatment are too large to ignore. Nevertheless, in the latest draft guidance from the National Institute for Health and Care excellence (NICE), it was recommended that vaginal mesh surgery should be the last resort to treat urinary incontinence. With this new collection, M&S can show to womxn that there are other solutions to incontinence and specialised products on the market to help and support womxn.
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
13|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
14|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S REPORT
CONSUMER TREND, OPPORTUNITY AND STRATEGIC ADVANTAGE
OVER 50’s M&S retains a very strong customer franchise and market position despite its clothing business has an ageing customer base (M&S, 2018). Therefore, M&S should capitalise on its wide ageing customer base. With this new collection for ageing, menopausal women, it enforces a unique selling proposition for the company, against its competitions. From this research, the majority and most accessible incontinence underwear products on the market are currently sold exclusively online only. It is evident that there are no supermarket retailers or department stores, equivalent to the scale of M&S’s operation, which provides fashionable incontinence lingerie. If M&S embarks on this collection, this will make M&S the only retailer in the UK to supply stylish, incontinence underwear in-store. The market for incontinence products has apparently increased the overall growth in the feminine hygiene sector. Proving its popularity amid the women’s market, M&S stores will become the destination for all womxn’s incontinence and wellbeing lingerie needs. Equally, M&S will benefit from an ageing population and the increase spending power of the people under the ageing demographic.
MARKET ANALYSIS
UK’S WEALTH
Most womxn will begin to experience symptoms of menopause in their late 40s then reaching menopause at an average age of 51 (Lynch, 2014). UN (2017) reported the number of people aged 50+ is expected to grow by 56% to reach 1.4 billion by 2030 (UN, 2017). While in the UK, the over 50s control 60% of total savings and 80% of the country’s wealth (Ipos Mori, 2019). Such statistics signifies that by providing the products 50+ women needs, M&S’s new collection will benefit greatly from an ageing population who holds that largest wealth proportion in the near future.
RANGE PLAN
UNDER 50’s
Aged 50+ expected to reach 1.4 billion by 2030
SUPPLIERS
Ageing introduce a cocktail of bodily change for womxn. However, an increasing amount of wellness brands are destigmatising issues related to menopause (Friend and Houghton, 2018). Besides, with an average lifespan increasing, it is about time our society have products in place to support menopausal womxn. This is an opportunity for M&S to step in and make up where the industry has failed to represent menopausal womxn.
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
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16|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
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M&S ANALYSIS
COMPETITORS AND INSPIRED PRICE POINT
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
19|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
SUPPLIERS
The price for this collection should also consider looking at other M&S special collections as a guidance for an appropriate pricing. This will make certain that the pricing for MENO is reflected of the typical M&S customer and ensure that there are no competition between the ranges. Data from M&S’s lingerie collection, Cool Comfort™ Range, Flexifit™ Range and Rosie for Autograph were selected to conduct a Like-for-like analysis for product pricing.
RANGE PLAN
MARKET ANALYSIS
Currently, the market for fashionable incontinence underwear to be purchased in store is virtually unheard of. However, it is important to analyse the incontinence brands that operates exclusively online. Icon, Confitex and Shreddies are brands that are presently providing incontinence underwear online. Icon, especially, is a key player driving the incontinence market with an unapologetic campaign in 2017 that herald its customers as unruly womxn in unruly bodies. As a key competition, an analysis of Icon’s product reviews will be examined to inspect what Icon is doing well and not well. Thus, improves MENO’s product offering. A Like-for-like analysis for all four competitors was carried out to compare their products and pricing offering. This analysis would also like to expand its competitor analysis to period-proof underwear. By analysis more products, it can provide a better pricing understanding in terms of the style of underwear that currently have leak-proof features. Thinx, Flux and WUKA will also be analysed.
20|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
BRANDS
STYLES BRIEF
BIKINI
THONG
COMMENTS A lot of styles, colour choices. But customers pay clearance fee.
ICON
£22.03
£19.77
£15.82
Have lace trims. 1st ever sexy incontinence underwear.
CONFITEX
£29.99 £29.99
Diaper like design, only black and white colours.
SHREDDIES £8.49
A lot of styles, colour choices. But customers pay clearance fee.
THINX £19.21 £16.95 £13.56
Different silhouettes, targeted for menstrual cycles.
FLUX £27.95 £27.95 £25.95
Only 1 style, targeted for menstrual cycles.
WUKA £24.99
AVERAGE
£21.53 £23.93 £18.44
STYLES BIKINI
THONG
VEST
BRALETTE
COOL COMFORT ™ RANGE
£6
£6
£6
£20
FLEXIFIT™
£8
£6
£8
£22.50
£16
£6
£6
£6
£19.50
£25
M&S COLLECTION
MARKET ANALYSIS
BRIEF
RANGE PLAN
M&S RANGES
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
21|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
£12.50
AVERAGE
£8.13
£10
£7
£10
£7.5
£39.50
£27.17
£30
£22.75
SUPPLIERS
ROSIE FOR AUTOGRAPH
O LEAKS UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO LEAKS
LEAKS UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO LEAKS
LEAKS UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO LEAKS UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WH
LEAKS UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO LEAKS
UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO
UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO
LEAKS UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO LEAKS
UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO
UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO
LEAKS UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO LEAKS
22|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO
23|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S ANALYSIS
CUSTOMERS & SWOT
24|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
After an analysis of M&S’s product review on its website, it was evident that most of the consumers who are purchasing M&S lingerie in the UK were womxn aged between 34 to 65+ (Appendix A). As for this collection, the primary consumer focus is targeted at menopausal womxn who suffers from urinary incontinence, which are typically from age 40 and onwards. The suggested that any womxn who purchase lingerie from M&S already are MENO’s potential customers, as 40+ sits within the range of M&S customers who are aged between 34 to 65+. Additionally, it was also understood that weak bladders can be experienced any womxn, at any age, varying intensity. Regardless of what leakage womxn might experience, all womxn fear of the embarrassing leaks and dealing with uncomfortable and unsustainable disposable sanitary products. Consequently, MENO will be a range that is for all womxn who wants to be leak-proof, with big emphasis on menopause to break the silence on this often thought as ‘tabooed’ topic.
This new collection will run in M&S stores across the UK. But before entering the range instore permanently, M&S will offer a trial collection pop-up on Mother’s day, 2020. The pop-up will be located in the M&S store across the UK’s 3 main cities; London’s Marble Arch store, Manchester’s Exchange Square store and Birmingham’s store at the Pavilions. Pop-ups are a fast way to respond to changing customer needs (Gill, 2019). The process of this pop-up will allow M&S to get the collection to market fast. Ultimately, this is a responsive way of working that many traditional retailers have taken up to do. The pop-up will also allow M&S to test the products in a physical space. In addition, gauging with consumer’s responses and feedback from the trial of new products will eliminate any potential risk of before rolling this new collection nationwide in stores permanently.
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
25|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
STRENGTHS • MENO will create a visionary solution to the use of unsustainable and non-recyclable incontinence products such as diapers and pads • The 4 layer protective technology is well tested and are used by other brands with successful reviews
MARKET ANALYSIS
• MENO is in line with M&S’s corporate values, in a way that M&S support not only their female workers who experiences menopause in its workforce but also womxn in general • MENO will go hand-in-hand with the existing Cool Comfort™ range to make M&S a go-to retailer that provides all the products for menopausal womxn with incontinence underwear and cooling lingerie, both at an affordable price without dismissing style.
WEAKNESSES • As an introductory range, this collection will have less styles than established incontinence underwear companies like Icon and Confitex
• Consumers might be wary about the new leakproof technology and might have doubts about whether it will work
OPPORTUNITIES
THREATS
• MENO can serve a market that is underrepresented by many brands and advertising campaigns
• Pharmaceutical brands offering stronger liquid holding products than MENO.
• Offer reusable incontinence products will attract those who are environmentally conscious • There are currently no other supermarket and department stores in the UK providing leak-proof underwear that are stylishly practical
SUPPLIERS
RANGE PLAN
• Consumers might be reluctant to purchase at first due to the stigma and taboo surrounding incontinence and menopause
26|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
27|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
28|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S RANGE PLAN
MENO BY M&S: THE RANGE SS20
1318 Sakura Pink
Leak Proof Thong
1239 Cantaloupe
85% Nylon
Art number: ICMP6680/1239
Art number: ICMP6680/1608
Art number: ICMP6680/4814
4814 Purist Blue
1318 Sakura Pink
Leak Proof Bikini
1239 Cantaloupe
85% Nylon
15% Spandex
RRP £10
Art number: ICMP6681/1318
Art number: ICMP6681/1239
Art number: ICMP6681/1608
Art number: ICMP6681/4814
Leak Proof Full Brief
4814 Purist Blue
1239 Cantaloupe
15% Spandex
1608 Cassie Art number: ICMP6682/1318
Art number: ICMP6682/1239
Art number: ICMP6682/1608
Art number: ICMP6682/4814
Shapewear wireless supportive vest
4814 Purist Blue
1318 Sakura Pink 1239 Cantaloupe 1608 Cassie
87% Polyester 13% Spandex
RRP £19
1608 Cassie
1318 Sakura Pink
85% Nylon
RRP £11
1608 Cassie
Art number: ICMP6683/1318
Art number: ICMP6683/1239
Art number: ICMP6683/1608
Art number: ICMP6683/4814
MARKET ANALYSIS
RRP £8
Art number: ICMP6680/1318
4814 Purist Blue
RANGE PLAN
15% Spandex
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
29|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
1318 Sakura Pink
Shapewear Soft bralette vest
1608 Cassie
87% Polyester
4814 Purist Blue
13% Spandex
RRP £29
Art number: ICMP6684/1318
Art number: ICMP6684/1239
Art number: ICMP6684/1608
Art number: ICMP6684/4814
SUPPLIERS
1239 Cantaloupe
30|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
1 in 3 women pees herself (a little).
1 in 3 womxn experiences bladder leaks and it is more common with womxn experiencing menopause. Menopause, is a ‘Change of life’ that inevitably affects all womxn at some point in her life. It is a life stage that they feel renders them invisible. Menopause can tear self-confidence to shreds and leave adept, it can make confident and successful womxn feeling like they are no longer able to do things or feeling sexy. Yet, the outlets for menopausal-friendly intimate apparel purchases in the UK are much more limited than markets of similar size. The market and advertisement of lingerie only caters to the 1834 age group with products in limited sizes. Unfortunately, this is not a friendly represent all womxn who also have the needs of lingerie and intimates (Friend, 2018). Likewise, menopausal clothing comes at an expensive price and are only available exclusively online. Not only womxn are already suffering enough from their biological inconvenience, on top of that, womxn have to pay an extortionate amount on menopausal relieve equipment is just unfair So, MENO created a future for womxn’s underwear- soft, absorbent underwear that replace panty liners for light and moderate leaks, holding up to 8 teaspoons of liquid. At an affordable price.
MARKET ANALYSIS
At M&S, we design leak proof underwear that allows womxn to be their most unapologetic self.
RANGE PLAN
MENO is soft, reusable and flattering underwear that protects women from bladder leaks.
SUPPLIERS
What is MENO underwear?
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
31|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
32|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S RANGE PLAN
THE MATERIAL AND TECHNOLOGY
2. Absorbent fabric blend, retains liquid while preventing odour
3. Polyurethane laminate, leakproof breathable waterproof barrier
All of M&S’s products are tested on real womxn, giving feedback not just on how a product looks but to test that the technology work and support.
MARKET ANALYSIS
4. Nylon and Spandex
RANGE PLAN
1. Nylon and Spandex, quick dry, moisture wicking, anti- microbial.
SUPPLIERS
The inspiration behind this range came from WGSN’s Design Emotion, whereby it explores the interplay between technology and humans. As technical fabrics continue to be a major design influence in 2020, MENO has combined the 4 layer protective technology with a soft and natural appeal through its underwear design. However, it was difficult identifying exactly what the 4 layer protective technology were made up of. Many brands and including the manufacturers themselves are very secretive about this technology, and when questioned, they all dodge the question. However, by looking at similar products on the market, such as period-proof underwear by Icon, WUKA and Confitex, a vague fabric composition and how the technology work is identified.
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
33|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
34|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
MENO Leak-Proof Underwear
vs.
Pantyliners
1. Better for your body vs. Can cause irritations, bacterial infection or genital acne. Coated in a bunch of harmful chemicals. Made from non-breathable plastics and petroleum-based polymer filling.
Fast-wicking fabric keeps you clean, comfortable and dry, even after a leak. Natural anti-microbial treatment to kill bacteria. Soft, breathable fabric= gentle on your lady bits.
2. Better for your wallet vs. Panty liners seem inexpensive but add up quickly.
MENO is washable and reusable= a set of underwear will pay for itself and save money in the long run.
3. Better for mother nature vs. Reusable, washable, ultra-soft absorbent underwear can completely eliminate panty liners for light bladder leaks
Panty linters can take up 500 years to decompose
(Icon 2019)
SUPPLIERS
RANGE PLAN
MARKET ANALYSIS
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
35|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
36|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S RANGE PLAN
TREND: SILHOUETTE/ COLOUR/ SIZES
To ensure that the new collection reflect to the demographic who normally purchase their lingerie from M&S in terms of style, this proposal has researched and analysed M&S existing styles and sizes in order to make justifications for this new collection.
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
37|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
Silhouette
MARKET ANALYSIS
In a UK underwear survey, YouGov revealed that womxn favour towards the option of briefs, bikini and thongs. This result illustrated the foundation of silhouettes chosen for MENO’s underwear style. YouGov also discovered that womxn showed a stronger preference towards briefs with 52%, only 11% opted for bikini style and 8% went for the thong. Respectively, this trustworthy analysis of womxn’s underwear preference helped MENO to select the appropriate underwear silhouettes suitable for the UK market- brief, bikini and thong. MENO’s shapewear vest took inspiration from WGSN’s SS20 focus on a soft and body hugging layer, with an addition of a wireless bra support to encourage wellness. Central to WGSN’s encouragement of a sense of wellbeing and comfort, the Bralette Vest interpreted WGSN’s soft lounge bra trend of 2020. A strong sense of comfort is created through the features of an unpadded and an unlined soft bra. The bralette vest was updated with an added length to create a long-line bra top that will style well under loose layers (Lynch, 2019).
22% of women aged over 60 wear matching underwear every day (Marie Claire, 2016). Women are more likely to wear matching underwear as they get older therefore, this range will provide matching colours for top and bottoms so our consumers can purchase 2 items as a matching set. Since this range is due for SS20, the colour for this range interpreted WGSN’s Key colour for SS20. The report suggested that garment colours should be rooted in nature. While yellow and orange will gain mass acceptance, blue will continue to transition from core to fashion. This new collection will pave way with 4 colours to being with:
Cantaloupe- Pantone15-1239TCX- a commercial colour for SS20. This is a milkier, more subdued version of the youthful orange, with a feel-good quality that is perfect for high summer. Purist blue- Pantone 14-4814 TPX- essential colour for SS20. This blue has a strong feminine appeal, which will attract those who are looking to move out of the traditional, beigey colour of lingerie. This colour will also bring out the contemporary womxn vibe as well as fulfilling the function of womxn’s necessity underwear.
SUPPLIERS
Colour
Cassie- Pantone 17-1608TCX - an essential colour for SS20. This colour will resonate strongest in Europe. It captures both the gender-neutral appeal of pink and the modern appeal of purple. Similarly, this colour share likeness with Icon’s bestselling colour, Rose (Appendix). This could suggest that MENO’s underwear Cassie could also be a bestselling colour.
RANGE PLAN
Sakura Pink- Pantone 14-1318 TC- Strong commercial appeal in SS20.
38|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
Leak Proof Full Brief [ 3,000 quantity ]
Sizes To decide which size were going to be more popular than others, this range looked at similar M&S products’ available both instore and online. Judging from the amount sizing per underwear M&S had displayed instore, the popularity of sizing was noted. Amongst the briefs, size 16 had completely ran out whereas size 8 had an abundance of stock displayed. Bikini style, size 14 was the most popular and size 8 and 22 were the least. Thong, sizes 10, 12 and 14 were the most popular. Appendix B showed that for the womxn shapewear vest, sizes 12, 14, 16 and 20 are the most popular, evident from these sizes being out of stock. Size 18 only had four left in stock, positioning itself as medium popular size. Size 8 and 22 were the least popular size.
Size 22 6% 180/ pc
Size 24 6% 180/ pc
Size 8 6% 180/ pc
Size 20 12% 360/ pc
Size 10 6% 180/ pc
Size 12 12% 360/ pc
Size 14 17% 510/ pc
Size 18 17% 510/ pc
Size 16 18% 540/ pc
Leak Proof Bikini
Leak Proof Thong
[ 2,700 quantity ]
Size 22 12% 162/ pc
Size 24 6% 162/ pc
Size 20 12% 324/ pc
Size 8 6% 162/ pc
[ 1,800 quantity ]
Size 10 6% 162/ pc
Size 22 8% 144/ pc
Size 12 12% 324/ pc
Size 14 18% 486/ pc
Size 18 17% 459/ pc
Size 16 17% 459/ pc
Size 24 7% 126/ pc
Size 8 8% 144/ pc Size 10 15% 270/ pc
Size 20 8% 144/ pc
Size 18 8% 144/ pc
Size 16 8% 144/ pc
Size 12 23% 414/ pc Size 14 15% 270/ pc
Shapewear Wireless Supportive Vest [2,000 quantity ]
Size 22 6% 120/ pc
Size 10 6% 120/ pc
Size 20 19% 330/ pc
Size 12 19% 380/ pc
Size 18 12% 240/ pc
The pie charts shows the size assortment per garment, assumed by their ratio popularity from instore and online observation.
Size 14 19% 380/ pc
MARKET ANALYSIS
As bralette vest is a product that is completely new to M&S’s product offering, a similar decorative vest was used as sizing and popularity comparison. Appendix X showed sizes 6, 18, 20 and 22 were all out of stock for Rosie for Autograph vest. But because this is a completely new product and perhaps more fashionable than any of its own products at M&S, the size offering for the bralette vest shall be kept at S, M and L. S being the most popular and L being the least.
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
39|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
RANGE PLAN
Size 16 19% 380/ pc
Shapewear Soft Bralette Vest Size L 17% 170/ pc
[ 1,000 quantity ]
Size M 33% 330/ pc
SUPPLIERS
Size S 50% 500/ pc
40|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
41|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
MENO
M&S EST. 1884
42|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S SUPPLIERS
SOURCING MANUFACTURERS
Shantou Shanhao Knitting Co., Ltd
SUPPLIERS
Gurao is one of several underwear hubs that have made China the world’s largest lingerie producer. Located in Shantou, a coastal city in China parallel to the South China Sea, it is city clustered with thousands of similar lingerie factories. In this “Town of Underwear” as the local government likes to call it, Gurao produces approximately 430 million pairs of underwear a year for domestic and oversea sale. Despite the global manufacturing for lingerie has seen an apparent shift from China to Thailand and Vietnam, where labour is cheaper and taxes lower, China remains a competitive manufacturing locality with an advantage of excellent supply chains and a rise in local wages (Economist, 2016). It is for this very reason that MENO’s range chose to manufacture in Gurao, Shantou. After several factory searches and requests, MENO range finalised Shantou Shanhao Knitting Co., Ltd (Shanhao) as its primary manufacturer to produce the goods for this range.
RANGE PLAN
MARKET ANALYSIS
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
43|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
44|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
Supply ability: 100,000 pieces per month. Shanhao is a professional underwear manufacturer that specialises in the 4 layer protective technology as well as seamless lingerie, using the latest Ultrasonic Seamless Technology. The factory has been producing underwear since 2008. From a small workshop to today, a factory, that is over 5,000 square metres and employs more than 300 workers. The success of Shanhao has been built on a strict quality management system that includes working procedure self-inspections, work shift double-check and delivery general inspection system, to ensure its customers are satisfied with its high quality products. Quality assurance check: Business license Foreign Trade Registration Certificate Quality Management System Certificate Customs registration Certificate Test Reports (SGS) The manufacturer’s main products are bras, underwear, camisoles and shapewear. Which fits perfectly well with MENO’s product offering. Looking at its product portfolios, Shanhao indeed provides the most fashionable and high quality series of underwear product at the most reasonable market price. With plenty of ‘Work in progress’ of the underwear that MENO was looking to replicate for M&S, the agile manufacturer, had the ability to use existing equipment, tool, labour and raw materials to create new or custom products on the spot. The factory is also able to work on OEM specification with reference samples, one that is submitted by M&S buyers. The factory has also worked with many brands for instance, Knixteen, who have embraced this technology. As an experienced manufacturer, Shanhao was knowledgeable to comprehend what the MENO range was trying to achieve (Manufacturer conversation appendix C). Under these circumstances, Shanhao was able to respond to MENO’s design demands quickly. Due to the quantity that MENO would be ordering from Shanhao, the factory has offered complimentary printed labels on garments and hangers for merchandising. In terms of packaging, all of the order from Shanhao will be packed in poly zip-up bags, individually.
Shenzhen Jingling Packaging Co., Ltd
Since M&S is a supermarket, there was no need of looking for a supplier to produce packaging for this collection. Rather, swing tags and hanger labels were needed to complete the indirect aspects of this collection. MENO’s swing tags and hanger tags will mimic M&S’s existing swing tags style (Appendix). Shenzhen Jingling Packaging Co., Ltd (Jingling) was finalised to be responsible for the production of MENO’s swing tags. Jingling’s main products include and not limited to gift bags, self-adhesive label, stickers, hang tags. As an experienced manufacturer with over 10 years of operation, Jingling has cooperated with Pandora, Oral-B, Huawei, Joseph and more. Moreover, the proximity from Jingling to Shanhao meant that the swing tags can be transported to Shanhao for assembling. (See Manufacturer conversation Appendix D).
45|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S SUPPLIERS
GARMENT SPECIFICATION SHEETS
46|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
INFORMATION ON SPECIFICATION SHEET The specification sheet for all the products in this collection were illustrated from already existing and similar M&S products, to gauge a more true to size fit for the new collection. The underwear line- brief, bikini and thong’s specifications assembled from a womxn’s size 14. The specification sheet for the Vest was based on the existing M&S light control sheer shaping vest in size 14. The reason for this is because the shaping vest has received positive customer reviews (Appendix B) and many have stated that this product is true to its size. Therefore, it make sense to base a new product’s sizing from an existing successful sizing reviewed from the customers, who may also be potential buyers of this new collection. The wireless bra support shapewear idea was introduced from a customer review mentioning that the under bust seam in the vest product has improved the fit. Therefore, this new collection wants to continue to improve the fit of the product from an analysis of customer reviews. Since the bralette vest is a completely new product to M&S, the measurements for this product accumulated from a combination of a size 14 bralette and a size 14 shaping vest, to make up this product.
INFORMATION ON THREAD CONSUMPTION As Shanhao agreed to take up the whole range manufacturing process, the factory’s proposed price for the whole range included everything from fabric sourcing, manufacturing, assembling Jingling’s swing tags at no extra cost to deliver at place. Subsequently, Shanhao was not able to provide information on thread or fabric consumptions. But conferring to Coats (2019) Thread consumption Guide, the average thread length used to make a pair of womxn briefs estimated to consume approximately 65m with 5% wastage allowance. Since the underwear are seamless, only the gusset part and the back of the underwear were sewn in the manufacturing process. Let’s assume that the underwear will take up 2/5 of the thread consumption advised by Coats (2019). As established, each underwear will consume 26m of thread instead. All the hems will use Ultrasonic seamless sewing machine to create the final look. Using the same guide from Coats, MENO’s vest was advised to use 50m of thread. MENO’s bralette vest’s thread consumption was calculated using the estimation of a vest and bra combine. Vest= 50m, bra= 45m, in total 95m of consumption is estimated. Vest= 50m. 26*(3000 [brief] +2700 [bikini] +1800 [thong] ) = 1,950m of thread 50*2000 [vest] = 1,000m of thread 95*1000 [ bralette vest] = 950m of thread Total= 3,900m of thread consumed
INFORMATION ON FABRIC CONSUMPTION Similarly, the fabric consumption of this range can be worked out by researching suppliers who produce a similar fabric to that Shanhao used for the range- Guangdong Jinlong Fabric Technology Co., Ltd. The fabric content, weight, width, knit type, yarn count and consumption for each product in MENO’s range specifications were estimated using Jinglong’s product overview, advertised on Alibaba (Appendix E).
Fabric consumption for brief Garment Dimensions: 54.8cm x 69cm Jinglong item number: WN008-2 85% nylon, 15% Spandex Width: 160cm Weight= 130gsm Knit type: Weft 1m of fabric makes 2 pairs of briefs Quantity needed= 3,000 Estimated MAX total fabric consumption for 3,000/pc= 1,500m
RANGE PLAN
Fabric consumption for bikini Garment Dimensions: 39cm x 72cm Jinglong item number: WN008-2 85% nylon, 15% Spandex Width: 160cm Weight= 130gsm Knit type: Weft 1m of fabric makes 4 pairs of bikini Estimated MAX total fabric consumption for 2,700/pc= 675m
MARKET ANALYSIS
Fabric consumotion for vest Garment Dimensions: 63.5cm x 94cm Jinglong item number: WT189 87% polyester, 13% spandex Width: 175cm Weight= 300gsm Knit type= Weft 1m of fabric makes 2 vests Estimated MAX total fabric consumption for 2,000/pc= 1,000m
Fabric consumption for bralette vest Garment Dimensions: 63.5cm x 94cm Jinglong item number: WT189 87% polyester, 13% spandex Width: 175cm Weight= 300gsm Knit type= Weft 1m of fabric makes 2 bralette vests Estimated MAX total fabric consumption for 1,000/pc= 500m Total 2,375m of 85% Nylon, 15% spandex at 130gsm needed for underwear production. Total 1,500m of 87% polyester, 13% spandex at 300gsm needed for vest and bralette vest production.
SUPPLIERS
Fabric consumption for thong Garment Dimensions: 17.5cm x 95cm Jinglong item number: WN008-2 85% nylon, 15% Spandex Width: 160cm Weight= 130gsm Knit type: Weft 1m of fabric makes 9 pairs of thong Estimated MAX total fabric consumption for 1,800/pc= 200m
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
47|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
48|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
SUPPLIERS
RANGE PLAN
MARKET ANALYSIS
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
49|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
50|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
SUPPLIERS
RANGE PLAN
MARKET ANALYSIS
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
51|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
52|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
MARKET ANALYSIS
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
53|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
VIEW IN:
CM
INCHES
Knickers Size
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
Size
XS
S
S
M
M
L
L
XL
XL
XXL
XXL
Waist
61
65
70
75
80
86
92
98
104
110
116
Hips
86
90
95
100
105
110
115
121
127
133
139
Tops Dual size (UK)
8-10
12-14
16-18
20-22
24-26
EU size
Small
Medium
Large
XLarge
XXLarge
Bust
82-87
92-97
102.5-108 114-120
126-132
Waist 65-70 75-80.5 86-92 98-104 110-116
SUPPLIERS
M&S’s ‘Standard’womenswear range has been designed for whose height is 168cm (5ft6”) and who as an inside leg of 79cm. The fit of a garment mayvary depending on the cut, style and fabric.
RANGE PLAN
M&S All Size Guides
54|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S SUPPLIERS
SWING TAG SPECIFICATION SHEETS
SUPPLIERS
RANGE PLAN
MARKET ANALYSIS
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
55|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
56|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
SUPPLIERS
RANGE PLAN
MARKET ANALYSIS
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
57|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
58|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S Quotations
ESTIMATED BUYING PRICE
Original quotation available in Appendix F.
The estimated buying price for DAP garment and swing labels BEFORE any shipment is $35,129 (£19,846.89). The estimated buying price for DAP of garment and swing labels shipment to garment factory is $35,149 (£19,858.19). The estimated buying price for both the range products and swing tag accessories, INCLUDING freight separately is $35,571 (£20,096.6).
Brief
$2.85
$3.05
3,000
$8,550
$9,150
Bikini
$2.65
$2.80
2,700
$7,155
$7,560
Thong
$2.20
$2.35
1,800
$3,960
$4,230
Vest
$3.80
$4.20
2,000
$7,600
$8,400
Bralette Vest
$3.80
$4.20
1,000
$3,800
$4,200
Total USD
10,500
$31,065
$33,540
Shenzhen Jingling Packaging Co., Ltd swing tags quotation Original quotation available in Appendix G.
Unit price
Quantity
Total buying price
Swing tag comp 1
$0.056
10,500
$588
Swing tag comp 2
$0.046
10,500
$483
Swing tag comp 3
$0.002
10,500
$25
Swing tag comp 4
$0.007
10,500
$82
RANGE PLAN
The estimated buying price for garments and swing labels BEFORE shipment or freight is $32,654 (£18,448.58).
FOB price DAP price Quantity Total FOB Total DAP
Hanger tag $0.137 3,000 $411 Total USD $1,589 Shipment to garment factory Total price with shipment to garment factory USD
$20 $1,609
DAP freight to UK $442 Total price with freight to UK USD $2,031
SUPPLIERS
Rate of exchange as of 15/04/2019 0.77 USD to 1 GDP
MARKET ANALYSIS
Shantou Shanhao Knitting Co., Ltd garment quotation
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
59|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
60|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
Swing tags cost breakdown per garment Swing tags from Jingling Packaging. There are 4 elements which make up 1 swing tag (see Appendix G ). All units of product will have a swing tag. In addition, the Vest and Bralette Vest will have a hanger in addition with the swing tag.
Style
Briefs
Bikini
Thong
Vest
Bralette vest
Quantity 3000 2700 1800 2000 1000 SWING TAG NO.1 COST 168 151.2 100.8 112 56
SWING TAG NO.2 COST 138 124.2 82.8 92 46
SWING TAG NO.3 COST 7.14 6.43 4.29 4.76 2.38 Plastic hang rope
PRR £
S
]EZIS[ KU ]EZIS[ RUE ]EZIS[ RF
SERIAL NUMBER
Lorem
M
REBMUN ELY TS
[COLOUR] [SIZE] [STYLE NUMBER] MADE IN CHINA PRODU CTION NUMBER
SNRU TE R ROF NIAT ER
SWING TAG NO.4 COST 23.43 21.08 14.06 15.62 7.81
HANG TAGS COST 274 137
TOTAL 336.57 302.91 201.95 498.38 249.19 TOTAL SHIPMENT TO SHANHAO 5.714 5.143 3.429 3.809 1.905 TOTAL SWING TAG ORDER COST
1609
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
61|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
MENO RANGE UNIT COST [ MATERIALS, LABOUR, OVERHEAD, ACCESSORIES, SHIPPMENT ] Shanhao Knitting’s specialisation in manufacturing and supplying of both underwear and shapewear has indeed been an immersive help for M&S. This has eased M&S’s effort in trying to find separate suppliers and manufacturers to complete the range. As a result, Shanhao provided a total unit cost for each of the product rather than a breakdown of cost such as materials, labour and a variety of services and capital resources (Jeffrey and Evans, 2011).
$1.425 $0.57 $0.855 $0.11219 FREE FREE $2.96219 3000 $0.20 $5.714 $9,492.28 £5,362.87
SUPPLIERS
Raw material cost Manufacturing cost Overhead cost Swing tag Printed labels Hangers Unit price Quantity DAP price per unit Swing tag transportation Total unit cost price Total after rate of exchange
RANGE PLAN
MARKET ANALYSIS
To understand the price of the product M&S will be purchasing from Shanhao, Jeffrey and Evan’s calcula-tion to the element of cost was used to clarify the cost within the manufacturing process. The element of cost to a product can be summarised into three main categories; direct materials, direct labour and over-heads. In terms of an approximate split of these costs in garment manufacturing, direct materials repre-sent the largest element of cost rendering 50% of the total unit price. Direct labour obtains only 20% of the total cost, whereas overhead costs are translated as 30% of the total unit cost.
62|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC Raw material cost Manufacturing cost Overhead cost Swing tag Printed labels Hangers Unit price Quantity DAP price per unit Swing tag transportation Total unit cost price Total after rate of exchange
$1.325 $0.53 $0.795 $0.11219 FREE FREE $2.96219 2700 $0.15 $5.143 $7868.05 £4,445.23
Raw material cost Manufacturing cost Overhead cost Swing tag Printed labels Hangers Unit price Quantity DAP price per unit Swing tag transportation Total unit cost price Total after rate of exchange
$1.1 $0.44 $0.66 $0.11219 FREE FREE $2.31219 1800 $0.15 $3.429 $4435.38 £2,205.86
Raw material cost Manufacturing cost Overhead cost Swing tags + hanger tag Printed labels Hangers Unit price Quantity DAP price per unit Swing tag transportation Total unit cost price Total after rate of exchange
$1.9 $0.76 $1.14 $0.24919 FREE FREE $4.04919 2000 $0.40 $3.809 $8902.19 £5,029.49
Raw material cost Manufacturing cost Overhead cost Swing tags + hanger tag Printed labels Hangers Unit price Quantity DAP price per unit Swing tag transportation Total unit cost price Total after rate of exchange
$1.9 $0.76 $1.14 $0.24919 FREE FREE $4.04919 1000 $0.40 $1.905 $4451.1 £2,514.75
SUPPLIERS
RANGE PLAN
MARKET ANALYSIS
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
63|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
64|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S Quotations
ESTIMATED RETAIL PRICE
INFLUENCES >> BUYING PRICE// LANDING PRICE// COMPETITORS’ PRICING// M&S OWN PRODUCT PRICING// MARGIN
Shanhao Knitting agreed to base their price per product based on a DAP by Air price from Shenzhen to the new M&S distribution centre at Welham Green and Stoke-On-Trent respectively. Initially, CIF price was considered from Shenzhen to Port of Felixstowe as this is Britain’s biggest and busiest container port. Moreover, Felixstowe’s location is well located to distribute the goods to London, Manchester and Birmingham (Shippo, 2019). But DAP was chosen as the final delivery term, whereby Shanhao Knitting had agreed to take all the risk and cost of delivering goods to an agreed-upon location- M&S distribution centres at Welham Green and Stoke-On-Trent. Accordingly, Shanhao Knitting was responsible for everything, including packaging, documentation, export approval, loading and ultimate delivery. In turn, M&S was responsible to offload the goods and clearing them from import.
Landing Price >> In reference to the Trade Traiff website, the articles of apparel of this range is listed under ‘Women’s singlets and other, man-made fibres’. Importing this goods are subject to VAT standard rate (20.00%). Importing from outside of the EU is subject to a third country duty of 12.00%. (Trade Tariff, 2019). The commodity code for importing is 6208920000.
MARKET ANALYSIS
Initially, the buying price for both garments and swing tags equates to $35,571 (£20,096.61), if they were transported separately to the UK. However, Jingling Packaging and Shanhao knitting are both based in Guangdong. Due to this close proximity, Jingling Packaging agreed to have the swing tags transported to Shanhao Knitting factory at a flat rate of $20. Shanhao Knitting then can then assemble the swing tags onto the garments, at no extra cost. This has reduced the total buying price by 1.18% at $35,194 (£19,858.19).
RANGE PLAN
Buying Price >>
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
65|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
Landing cost price for only garments (33540/1.77)*1.132= £21,450.44 Landing cost price for only swing tags (2031/1.77)*1.12= £1,285.15 Total £22,735.59
SUPPLIERS
Based on Jingling and Shanhao Knitting’s quotations, the landing prices for importing this range into the UK were calculated. Formula: Landing cost price= ((Cost of goods + freight)/ rate of exchange)* Duty and Clearance
66|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
Landing Price continue >> However, based on Jingling’s transportation agreement on the swing tags to be transported to Shanhao for $20, the labels will be exempt from a Duty and Clearance fee of 20% that would have otherwise been necessary, if the swing tags were imported separately. Therefore the final landing cost for the overall products with freight included is: Landing cost for garments with labels already included (35,149/1.77)*1.132= £22,479.47 Difference= £256.12= 1.13%
Competitors’ Pricing >>
M&S Pricing >>
The competitors’ like-for-like analysis from page 16 showed that the average for incontinence undies in terms of silhouettes are as follow:
The analysis of M&S own product pricing from page 15 illustrated the average cost per garment are as follow:
Briefs= £21.53 Bikini= £23.93 Thong=£18.44
Brief= £8.13 Bikini=£7 Thong= £7.5 Vest= £27.17 Bralette= £22.75
Margin >> On the report of Craig’s (2018) industry norm, as a mid-market retailer, M&S typically operate at a 50-60% gross profit margin. However, as this is a technical range, the 4 layer protective technology underwear are regarded as a premium and specialised products. Therefore, M&S has the potential to increase its profit margin for this range of leak-proof underwear. This table on page 65 shows the breakdown of all charges that determined the total value of the final garments and accessories goods. Although the margins have increased slightly for this range, the pricings for this new range matches, if not lower, than the existing products in M&S’s product portfolio, while maintaining to be the most value retailer to supply fashionable incontinence underwear.
Quantity
3,000
2,700
Unit Cost Price (USD)
2.85
Unit Cost Price DAP by Air (USD)
Leak Proof Thong
Shapewear Wireless Support Vest
Shapewear Soft Bralette Vest
1,800
2,000
1,000
2.65
2.20
3.80
3.80
3.05
2.80
2.35
4.20
4.20
Total Garment Unit Price Swing Tags And
9,150
7,560
4,230
8,400
4,200
Hanger Tag Cost Per Unit
0.11219
0.11219
0.11219
0.24919
0.24919
Total Swing Tag And Hanger Tag Cost (USD)
336.57
302.91
201.95
498.38
249.19
Total Unit Price (USD) Shipment To
9,486.57
7,862.91
4,431.95
8,898.38
4449.19
Garment Factory ($20)
5.714
5.143
3.429
3.809
1.905
Total Unit Price Include All Shipment (USD)
9,492.28
7,868.05
4,435.38
8,902.19
4,451.1
Cost Per Unit Incl. Accessories And Shipment
3.16
2.91
2.46
4.45
4.45
Rate Of Exchange 15/04.2019
1.77
1.77
1.77
1.77
1.77
Duty And Clearance
1.132
1.132
1.132
1.132
1.132
Cost Per Unit Landed In Uk (£)
2.02
1.86
1.57
2.85
2.85
50% MARGIN (£) 4.04 3.72 3.14 5.7 60% MARGIN (£) 5.05 4.65 3.93 7.13 70% MARGIN (£) 6.73 6.2 5.23 9.5 80% MARGIN (£) 10.1 9.3 7.85 14.25 85% MARGIN (£) 19 90% MARGIN (£) Suggested RRP (£) £11 £10 £8 £19 Total RRP £33,000 £27,000 £14,400 £38,000 Total Revenue £141,400 Total Buying Price £22,479.47 PROFIT £118,920.53
5.7 7.13 9.5 14.25 19 28.5 £29 £29,000
MARKET ANALYSIS
Leak Proof Bikini
RANGE PLAN
Leak Proof Full Brief
SUPPLIERS
STYLE
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
67|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
68|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
MENO
M&S EST. 1884
69|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
MENO
M&S EST. 1884
Jun-18
70|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S BUYING AND MERCHANDISING
CRITICAL PATH
Comp analysis InterTextile Pavillion Shenzhen, Interfiliere Paris Product ideas Range plans set up for price point Margin agreed Sales price agreed Fabric ideas & Swatches Start garment and swing tag specs PRE PRODUCT PROPOSAL REVIEW Fabric sourcing Send specs to make Garment Development Samples Allocate factory for Garment Development Sample PRODUCTION PROPOSAL & SELECTION MEETING 1 Factory profiling: garment and swing tags Garment Development Sample deadline Calculate cost prices Order Garment Development Sample PRODUCTION SELECTION MEETING 2 Swing tag product sign off Garment product sign off Garment Development Sample Production Garment Development Sample Shipment Garment Development Sample Arrival Approve Garment Development Sample Sourcing trip- factories (Before Chinese New Year) Confirm target buy prices Budget meeting initial order qty Costing specs complete Confirm Swing tag supplier Confirm Garment supplier Specification to Swing tag supplier initial quotations Specification to Garment supplier initial quotations Sent Swing tag colour pallet and lab dip Sent garment colour pallet and lab dip Garment sample shipment Swing tag sample Arrival (Digital) Swing tag sample Approval Garment sample Arrival Garment sample fit meeting Negotiate and Confirm prices Garment sample approval Place initial garment orders Place initial Swing tag orders Swing tag Material and trim approval Swing tag lab dip sent Swing tag lab dip approval Swing tag final sample approval Swing tag production Swing tags shipment Swing tags arrival at garment factory Garment lab dip sent Fabric Approval Garment lab dip approval Fabric Arrival Garment Leak-proof technology testing Garment Leak-proof technology approval Quality check trip Final production sample approval Bulk production First product shipment First product arrival
Jul-18 Aug-18 Sep-18 Oct-18 Nov-18 Dec-18 Jan-19 Feb-19 Mar-19 Apr-19 May-19 Jun-19 Jul-19 Aug-19 Sep-19 Oct-19 Nov-19 Dec-19
END OF LIFE STRATEGY
FORECASET SALES
DISTRIBUTION
BUYING AND MERCH
71|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
72|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S DISTRIBUTION
ORDER QUANTITY , DELIVERT & DISTRIBUTION
Bralette vest
Total
London
1000 900 600 668 425
3,593
Manchester 1000 900 600 666 425
3,591
Birmingham 1000 900 600 666 150
3,318
In terms of delivery of stock, Shanhao Knitting will be responsible to send the London quantities to M&S’s distribution centre at Welham Green. Whereas for Manchester and Birmingham, their quantities are due to deliver together to M&S’s distribution centre at Stoke-On-Trent. These distribution centres were chosen, as they are the closest proximity to the M&S stores, which the pop-ups are due to take place. Distance between distribution centre to M&S stores in London, Manchester and Birmingham: Welham Green to Marble Arch Store= 19 miles approx Stoke-On-Trent to Manchester Market streer store= 48 miles approx Stoke-On-Trent to Birmingham Pavilions store= 45 miles approx
DISTRIBUTION
Brief Bikini Thong Vest
FORECASET SALES
END OF LIFE STRATEGY
YouGov’s underwear preference clearly illustrated that our underwear choice changes as we get older. These statistics helped M&S to gauge the quantities suitable for MENO to be made to order. With briefs being the most popular amongst the underwear style, 3,000 pieces were ordered. 2,700 pieces of bikini style were ordered and with thongs being the least popular, yet a staple piece, only 1800 pieces were ordered. In addition, 2,000 pieces of the vest were ordered. The quantities in this range will be distributed equally across the three cities that the popups will be held. However, the bralette vest is a completely new product to M&S and its customers. As a fashionable item and newness to market, only 1000 pieces of bralette vest was ordered to minimise risk associated with unsold product. In terms of distribution, larger proportion of the bralette vest will be distributed to London and Manchester, as these are the most fashionable cities in the UK. Suiting the demographics within that location, this fashionable piece will attract the fashionable consumers. Whereas a small quantity will be distributed to Birmingham.
BUYING AND MERCH
73|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
74|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S SALES
FORECAST SALE PLAN AND PRODUCT LIFECYCLE
BIR TOTAL 100 350 £1,100 £3,850
LND 40 £440
MAN 27 £297
BIR 21 £231
TOTAL 88 £968
LND MAN BIR TOTAL 1000 1000 1000 3000 £11,000 £11,000 £11,000 £33,000
120 115 80 315 Bikini £10 £1,200 £1,150 £800 £3,150
32 £320
22 £220
20 £220
74 £740
900 900 900 2,700 £9,000 £9,000 £9,000 £27,000
80 Thong £8 £640
220 £1,760
18 £144
16 £128
15 £120
149 £392
600 600 600 1,800 £4,800 £4,800 £4,800 £14,400
110 130 120 360 £2,090 £2,508 £2,280 £6,840
13 £247
19 £608
18 £342
50 £950
668 666 666 2,000 £12,692 £12,654 £12,654 £38,000
12 3 £348 £93
27 £783
425 425 150 1,000 £12,325 £12,325 £4,350 £29,000
Vest £19 Bralette vest £29
LND MAN 150 100 £1,650 £1,100
WEEK 32 INSTORE
60 £1,798
70 70 £560 £560
75 45 £2,175 £1,305
TOTAL
150 £4,350
12 £348
1,395 £19,950
288 £3,833
10,500 £141,400
FORECASET SALES
Briefs £11
WEEK 1 INSTORE
END OF LIFE STRATEGY
POP UP
DISTRIBUTION
YouGov’s survey suggested that 64% of womxn aged over the age of 60 prefers more fabric to their un-derwear and briefs were their preference of underwear choice. As suggested, the sales forecast assumed that briefs were likely to be the best seller for M&S’s target market, amidst the undies. The 1-day pop-up promotional event will certainly spike the sales of the MENO range before entering the range instore permanently, thanks to sufficient effort of promotion. When MENO first enter into the M&S stores, the first 2 weeks will receive quite a slow sale. During this introductory phase, M&S’s customers will first get to know what the new range is about before purchasing (Jackson and Shaw, 2000). Therefore, it can be expected that by week 7 that the range will begin to see growth as M&S customers are accustom to this new range and trust that this product will work and support their needs. The growth for this range can be predicted to last throughout the whole summer and expect to see range saturation by mid-autumn. Then by this point, new colours for this range will release to suit the Autumn/Winter season and introduce Christmas themed leak-proof undies for the festive season. M&S is not expecting this range to decline in the near future as the technology is new to the brick-and-mortar retail environment and as an ageing pop-ulation increasing, there will only be more demand for ageing products like incontinence undies.
BUYING AND MERCH
75|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
76|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
SAY GOOD BYE TO FILMSY PANTYLINERS
77|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
MENO
M&S EST. 1884
78|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S PRODUCT
END OF LIFE STRATEGY & FAQ
BUYING AND MERCH
79|MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC
M&S encourages its shoppers to recycle clothes.
Are MENO pants hygienic? Answer: YES, the inner layer of our fabric has antibacterial properties this helps reduce the odour and bacterial growth. It is also machines washable at 40 degrees. Can MENO underwear be used for other purposes such as period or bleeding after giving birth? Answer: YES, our underwear can be used for many purposes from bladder leaks to postpartum discharge, endometriosis and light periods.
END OF LIFE STRATEGY
Does incontinence wear have to be ugly and uncomfortable? Answer: No
FORECASET SALES
DISTRIBUTION
With over 450,000 tonnes of textiles ended up in landfills each year, the supermarket giant introduced boxes where its shoppers can discard unwanted items in hundreds of its stores including M&S outlets. This new recycling scheme is called- Plan A Shwopping (Thompson, 2012), in partnership with Oxfam and it is a permanent fixture to its stores. Every item placed in the boxes are resold, reused or recycled allow Oxfam to fund vital projects around the world. Even if the items cannot be sold on, the fibres may be perfect for recycling into making new materials (M&S, 2019). Therefore, M&S advices MENO customers to recycle their products using these scheme so that the fibres in their discarded clothing can have a new life.
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REFERENCES REFERENCES REFERENCES REFERENCES
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news/article/23544/holland-barrett-puts-spotlight-on-the-menopause
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Morely, K. (2018) Bring back our knickers: Marks and Spencer abandons underwear redesign after complaints from women shoppers. The Telegraph. [Online] [Accessed on 15 April 2019] https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2018/02/28/bring-back-knickers-marks-spencer-abandons-underwear-redesign/ NAMS. (2019) Urinary incontinence. The North American menopause society. [Online] [Accessed on 13 April 2019] https://www.menopause.org/for-women/sexual-health-menopause-online/causes-of-sexual-problems/urinary-incontinence Powell, A. (2019) Women and the economy. House of Commons Library briefing Number CBP06838. London: House of Commons Library. [Online] [Accessed on 13 April 2019] researchbriefings.files.parliament. uk/documents/SN06838/SN06838.pdf Rejuvage. (2019) What is the economic cost of the menopause? Rejuvage. 18 Jan. [Online] [Accessed on 4 March 19] https://rejuvage. com/economic-cost-menopause/ Sheppard, L. (2018), Clothing and Beauty, Menopause Goddess. [Online] [Accessed on 22 Feb 19] https://www.menopausegoddessblog. com/marketplace/clothing-2/ Shippo. (2019) What ports do you ship to in the UK? Shippo. [Online] [Accessed on 1 April 2019] https://www.shippo.co.uk/faqs/whatports-do-you-ship-to-in-the-uk/ The Economist. (2016) Bleak times in bra town. The Economist. [Online] [Accessed on 22 April 2019] https://www.economist.com/ china/2016/04/16/bleak-times-in-bra-town Thompson, J. (2012) M&S launches clothes recycling. Financial Times. [Online] [Accessed on 15 April 2019] https://www.ft.com/content/853d3472-8fba-11e1-beaa-00144feab49a Trade Tariff. (2019) Commodity information for 6208920000. Gov. [Online] [Accessed on 16 April 2019] https://www.trade-tariff. service.gov.uk/trade-tariff/commodities/6208920000 Trustpilot. (2019), Become Menopause clothing. Trustpilot. [Online] [Accessed on 22 Feb 19] https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/www. webecome.co.uk UN. (2017) Ageing. United Nations. [Online] [Accessed on 13 April 2019] https://www.un.org/en/sections/issues-depth/ageing/ Van Gilder Cooke, S. and Buchanan, V. (2014), The flat age society. LSN Global. [Online] [Accessed on 21 Feb 19] https://www.lsnglobal.com/ macro-trends/article/15379/the-flat-age-society-1
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IMAGE REFERENCES IMAGE REFERENCES IMAGE REFERENCES IMAGE REFERENCES
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1: WGSN. (2019) WGSN by Ascential. WGSN. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.wgsn.com/fashion 3: Thinx. (2019) Underwear that absorbs your period. SheThinx. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.shethinx. com/ 5: Icon. (2019) Shop All style. Icon Undies. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.iconundies.com/collections/ incontinence-underwear/products/incontinence-underwear-high-waist?variant=44963559177 6: WGSN. (2019) WGSN by Ascential. WGSN. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.wgsn.com/fashion 9: WYSK. (2017) Pee-proof underwear brands launches ‘Piss Off’ campaign to end the stigma of bladder leaks. WYSK. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://womenyoushouldknow. net/pee-proof-underwear-piss-off-campaign/ 10: Saroff, S. (2018) Foods distorted through liquid and glass in photographs by Suzanne Saroff. Bloglovin. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.bloglovin.com/blogs/ colossal-3878906/foods-distorted-through-liquid-glass-in-photographs-6119490877 11: Nunes, Z. (2016) Enjoy 11 gorgeous shots from Gisele Bündchen archives. Elle. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https:// www.elle.com/culture/books/g28264/gisele-bundchen-photo-book/?slide=5 13: Icon. (2019) Shop All style. Icon Undies. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.iconundies.com/collections/incontinence-underwear/products/incontinence-underwear-high-waist?variant=44963559177 14: Icon. (2019) Shop All style. Icon Undies. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.iconundies.com/collections/incontinence-underwear/products/incontinence-underwear-high-waist?variant=44963559177
[Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.bloglovin.com/blogs/ colossal-3878906/foods-distorted-through-liquid-glass-in-photographs-6119490877 18: in order. Icon. (2019) Shop All style. Icon Undies. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.iconundies.com/collections/incontinence-underwear/products/incontinence-underwear-high-waist?variant=44963559177 Confitex. (2019) Shop Women. Confitex. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.confitexunderwear.com/ Shreddies. (2019) Women Incontinence Full Brief. MyShreddies. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.myshreddies.com/ Thinx. (2019) Underwear that absorbs your period. SheThinx. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.shethinx.com/ Flux. (2019) Period proof underwear that works. Fluxundies. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.fluxundies. com/ Wuka. (2019) Wuka period pants heavy. WUKA. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://wuka.co.uk/ 19: M&S. (2019) Lingerie. Marks and Spencer. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.marksandspencer.com/c/ lingerie 20: Icon. (2019) Shop All style. Icon Undies. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.iconundies.com/collections/incontinence-underwear/products/incontinence-underwear-high-waist?variant=44963559177 22: WGSN. (2019) WGSN by Ascential. WGSN. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.wgsn.com/fashion 23: Greaves, K. (2018). These inclusive lingerie brands that created a vision of fantasy that can actually be for everyone. Bustle. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.bustle. com/p/these-inclusive-lingerie-brands-have-created-a-visionof-fantasy-that-can-actually-be-for-everyone-13213924 24: Schipani, S. (2019) Icon holiday campaign. Itssara. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://itssara.me/icon-undies/
15: WGSN. (2019) WGSN by Ascential. WGSN. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.wgsn.com/fashion
25: Schipani, S. (2019) Icon holiday campaign. Itssara. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://itssara.me/icon-undies/
17: L to R. Saroff, S. (2018) Foods distorted through liquid and glass in photographs by Suzanne Saroff. Bloglovin. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.bloglovin.com/blogs/ colossal-3878906/foods-distorted-through-liquid-glass-in-photographs-6119490877 Saroff, S. (2018) Foods distorted through liquid and glass in photographs by Suzanne Saroff. Bloglovin. [Online image]
28: Leighton, M. (2018). 6 new lingerie companies that are changing the industry with inclusive sizes and a woman-led design process. Business Insider. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.businessinsider.com/new-lingerie-brands-20186?r=US&IR=T 29: Icon. (2019) Shop All style. Icon Undies. [Online image]
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[Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.iconundies.com/collections/incontinence-underwear/products/incontinence-underwear-high-waist?variant=44963559177
their changing bodies. Manrepeller. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.manrepeller.com/2018/06/weak-bladder-and-other-body-changes.html
33: Icon. (2019) Shop All style. Icon Undies. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.iconundies.com/collections/incontinence-underwear/products/incontinence-underwear-high-waist?variant=44963559177
66: WGSN by Ascential. WGSN. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.wgsn.com/fashion
35: Leighton, M. (2018). 6 new lingerie companies that are changing the industry with inclusive sizes and a woman-led design process. Business Insider. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.businessinsider.com/new-lingerie-brands-20186?r=US&IR=T
67: Thinx. (2019) Underwear that absorbs your period. SheThinx. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.shethinx. com/ 73: Thinx. (2019) Underwear that absorbs your period. SheThinx. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.shethinx. com/
39: Icon. (2019) Shop All style. Icon Undies. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.iconundies.com/collections/incontinence-underwear/products/incontinence-underwear-high-waist?variant=44963559177
74: Icon. (2019) Shop All style. Icon Undies. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.iconundies.com/collections/incontinence-underwear/products/incontinence-underwear-high-waist?variant=44963559177
41: WGSN. (2019) WGSN by Ascential. WGSN. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.wgsn.com/fashion
75: WGSN. (2019) WGSN by Ascential. WGSN. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.wgsn.com/fashion
42: Shantou Shanhao. (2019) US Sizing Custom Women’s Menstrual Panties Panty Leak proof Sanitary Briefs Breathable Period Underwear. Alibaba. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/US-Sizing-Custom-Women-s-Menstrual_60807407446.html?spm=a2700. galleryofferlist.normalList.64.3ede3db2OrDfLW
77: Icon. (2019) Shop All style. Icon Undies. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.iconundies.com/collections/incontinence-underwear/products/incontinence-underwear-high-waist?variant=44963559177
51: Thinx. (2019) Underwear that absorbs your period. SheThinx. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.shethinx. com/ 59: Leighton, M. (2018). 6 new lingerie companies that are changing the industry with inclusive sizes and a woman-led design process. Business Insider. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.businessinsider.com/new-lingerie-brands-20186?r=US&IR=T WGSN. (2019) WGSN by Ascential. WGSN. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.wgsn.com/fashion 61: Thinx. (2019) Underwear that absorbs your period. SheThinx. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.shethinx. com/ 63: all 4 images WGSN. (2019) WGSN by Ascential. WGSN. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.wgsn.com/fashion 64: WGSN. (2019) WGSN by Ascential. WGSN. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.wgsn.com/fashion Nahman, H. (2018) From leaky boob to leaky bladders, 21 women on
77: Thinx. (2019) Underwear that absorbs your period. SheThinx. [Online image] [Accessed on 25 Apr. 19] https://www.shethinx. com/
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APPENDICES APPENDICES APPENDICES APPENDICES
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Appendi A M&S product reviews and customer base
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Appendix B M&S Shaping Vest
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Appendix C Shantou Shanhao Knitting Co., Ltd request conversation
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Appendix D Shenzhen Jingling packaging co., ltd request conversation
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Appendix E Jinlong fabric component and consumption justification
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Appendix F Shanhao Knitting quotation sheet
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Appendix G Shenzhen Jingling Packaging quotation sheet
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MENO
M&S EST. 1884
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UNDERWEAR FOR WOMXN WHO LEAKS MENOBYM&S.COM