International Dyer by Nikki Debbie Lewis

D y e i n g • F i n i s h i n g • P r i n t i n g • C o a t i n g Issue 7 2014

International

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International

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2. COMMENT Chinese Investment Hints at Transformation in Africa 4.

INDUSTRY NEWS

12. LOCAL COLOUR Grant for Dyeing Novelty

Cover Advertisment Thanks to constant innovation and collaboration with manufacturers of synthetic fibres, ERCA is able to offer specific products for scouring and cleaning processes on all types of textile articles. ERCA is always looking for the best technical solution to solve any kind of problem; each product is formulated with special attention to efficiency, sustainability and environmental care. LAUPAL DLT is the result of cooperation between ERCA and ASAHI KASEI. The product has been designed to remove the spinning oils used in the production of DORLASTAN® V550, one of the elastomeric fibres manufactured by ASAHI KASEI. LAUPAL DLT allows removal of around 75% of the oils. We believe our vision will contribute to improved environmental care. ERCA SPA Grassobbio (BG), Italy www.ercagroup.com Asahi Kasei Spandex Europe GmbH Dormagen, Germany www.dorlastan.com

Indonesia Electricity Hike Encourages On-Site Cogeneration Italy’s Textile Industry Supports TTIP Energy Shortages Trim Pakistan Export Growth

16. DYES & CHEMICALS NEWS 19. Technical Briefing: FLAME RETARDANTS

Textile Flame Retardancy: Regulations and Developments New Proposals Reduce Safety and Add Regulation

24. TECHNICAL TEXTILES 26. CONFERENCE REPORT: DORNBIRN Innovative and Sustainable Finishing at Dornbirn 2014 28. technical briefing: screenprinting Changing the Rules of the Game

241 33

30. TEXTILES & SUSTAINABILITY 33. PROFILE: AFRICA

Chinese Investment Exploits Africa’s Market Access

36. TECHNICAL BRIEFING: COATING

New Piezoneedle System Offers High-Speed Digital Coating

38. MACHINERY & SERVICES 45. CALENDAR OF EVENTS

28 ISSUE 7 2014

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International

Dyer Editor: JOHN SCRIMSHAW Technical Editor: DR IAN HOLME North America Correspondent: JOHN MCCURRY Editorial Design: NICOLA LEWIS JAY FAULKNER Display & Classified Advertising Sales: JAMES WILSON Subscriptions: MAGGIE SADOWSKA Managing Director: MARK JARVIS International Dyer is published by World Textile Information Network West One, 114 Wellington Street, Leeds, LS1 1BA England Tel: +44 (0)113 388 4882 e-mail: info@wtin.com Website: www.internationaldyer.com Printed in Singapore by KHL Printing Co. Pte Ltd Advertisement Sales Offices MAIN OFFICE: James Wilson World Textile information Network, West One, 114 Wellington Street, Leeds, LS1 1BA, United Kingdom. Tel: +44 (0)113 388 4882 E-mail: jwilson@wtin.com JAPAN: Katsuhiro Ishii, Ace Media Services Inc. 12-6, 4 chome, Nishiiko Adachi-ku, Tokyo 121-0824, Japan Tel:0081 3 5691 3335 Fax: 0081 3 5691 3336 E-mail: amskatsu@dream.com

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Comment

Chinese Investment Hints at Transformation in Africa Sub-Saharan Africa is a region of the world that has been largely sidelined over the past decade, as textile purchasers and investors looked east to Asia and as China became the dominant export supplier. Several countries in the region have historically possessed industrial-scale textile production but much of it has been for domestic consumption and their impact on world markets has been slight. Now there is change in the air as Chinese capital seeks profitable locations to invest and Africa’s twin advantages of supremely low costs and preferential market access look like an attractive package. Even the continent’s notorious infrastructure weaknesses are being addressed as many of these countries outstrip the global average in GDP growth. China’s own textile manufacturers used to reign supreme but it is well known that they now face a squeeze on their profitability as a result of cost inflation and currency movements. Chinese investment in its Asian neighbours such as Vietnam and Bangladesh has been well reported – its own version of the ‘offshoring’ that took hold in Europe and the USA a decade before. But Chinese investment in Africa’s export industries is a newer trend. One spur to this investment is the US African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), which gives conditional duty-free access to the American market for textiles produced in a list of the poorest countries. AGOA has been in place for several years without so-far generating an African boom, but Chinese money may be the missing factor. One of the most spectacular investments is the US$200 million being ploughed into a new textile industrial zone on the edge of the Ethiopian capital, Addis Ababa, by Zhejiang Jinda Flax, with the aim of producing 20,000 tonnes of linen yarn annually. John Scrimshaw Editor

W TiN

WORLD TEXTILE INFORMATION NETWORK

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Huntsman to Divest Key TIO2 Business The European Commission has cleared the proposed acquisition by Huntsman Corporation of a number of chemical businesses held by US-based Rockwood Specialties Group Inc, but made approval conditional on Huntsman divesting its TR52 titanium dioxide business – the main grade used for white printing ink applications. The Commission said it had concerns that the transaction, as originally notified, would have enabled the merged entity to raise prices of titanium dioxide for printing ink applications in the European Economic Area (EEA). Commitments offered by Huntsman had addressed these concerns. An in-depth investigation showed that the transaction would have combined the

two leading suppliers of titanium dioxide for printing ink applications, leading to the creation of a dominant position in the EEA. The Commission also judged that the combined entity would not face sufficient competition from other titanium dioxide suppliers such as DuPont, Tronox, Kronos, Eastern European and Asian producers, which lacked the relevant knowledge or incentives to expand in the market. It found this market was characterised by high barriers to entry, mostly linked to know-how and capital requirements. Huntsman has offered to divest its global TR52 business, including the TR52 brand, technology and know-how, customer arrangements and some key personnel, so that the purchaser of the TR52 business

will be able to operate a viable business in competition with the merged entity and other market participants. The companies have committed not to close the proposed transaction before concluding a binding agreement for the sale of the divestment business to a suitable purchaser approved by the Commission. The businesses of Rockwood acquired by Huntsman cover the production of titanium dioxide and functional additives – businesses operated under the name of ‘Sachtleben’ – as well as colour pigments, timber treatment and wood protection chemicals in North America, water treatment chemicals, and the provision of rubber automotive spare parts (the ‘Gomet’ business).

Textile Institute President Dies 4

The death has been announced of Dr Peter Dinsdale, CText FTI, world president of the Textile Institute. Dr Dinsdale became the Textile Institute’s world president in 2012, after retiring as principal industry specialist at the World Bank/IFC in Washington DC, where he remained an advisor. He was also a director of Trigon Diligence Ltd, an international textile consultancy in London. He was a Fellow of the UK-based Textile Institute, of the Institute of Physics and of the British Institute of Management. He held a PhD in Textile Engineering and a BSc in Applied Physics.

Stephanie Dick, institute CEO said: “This news will be a great shock to his many friends and colleagues at the Institute and around the world. His passing is a great loss to The Textile Institute and the textile industry as a whole. We are truly thankful as an organisation for this contribution and we will certainly be the poorer for his passing.” The chairman of the Textile Institute, Helen Rowe, said of Dr Dinsdale: “His legacy will be one of rejuvenation, of expanding interest in the work of the TI throughout the textile world and of increasing our contacts across the globe. He will be sorely missed.” Dr Dinsdale died on August 10.

Dr Peter Dinsdale

VDMA Gets First Woman Chair For the first time in its history, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association is to be chaired by a woman, following the election of Regina Brückner, managing associate of Brückner Trockentechnik. Mrs Brückner was elected to succeed Fritz Mayer, of Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik, who has led the Textile Machinery Association since 2008 and who has been elected vice-chairperson with special responsibility for the association’s European and international relations. Mr Mayer said: “I am very pleased that Mrs Regina Brückner, an experienced businesswoman, becomes my successor. She managed to lead the family enterprise of Brückner through any terrain throughout the last 15 years. Furthermore she proved her competent leadership since 2008 as vice-chairperson of the Textile Machinery Association.”

New chairperson Regina Brückner is pictured with her predecessor, Fritz Mayer

INTERNATIONAL DYER

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ACIMIT Opens Indian Training Centre An Italian textile-machinery training centre has opened in Maharashtra, India, in line with an agreement signed around two years ago by the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT) and the DKTE’S Textile & Engineering Institute in Ichalkaranji, Kolhapur. The project, which, among other initiatives, provides for the transfer of equipment on loan from Italian manufacturers for a maximum of three years, as well as training courses, includes the participation of three of ACIMIT’s associated members during this first stage – Bianco, Fadis and Savio. Co-ordinated by a workgroup formed by

ACIMIT and an Indian counterpart, Rare Tech Projects (www.raretech.org), the project will be responsible for organising all on-site activities. The initiatives planned include a mission to Italy, scheduled for November, consisting of DKTE’S professors and Indian textile operators with ties to the institution. The technology training centre is part of the broader Machines Italia project, financed by the Ministry for Economic Development (MiSE), whose organisation has been entrusted to Federmacchine (the Italian Federation of Capital Goods Manufacturers). The goal of the Machines Italia project in India is to support the internationalisation of

businesses in the sector in one of the globe’s most intensely developing economies. “With the technology training centre becoming operative, our sector is laying the foundations for future business opportunities in a market that is already important for the majority of our machinery manufacturers,” said ACIMIT president Raffaella Carabelli. Prakash Awade, former Minister of Textiles, said: “This centre will be the first bridge between Italy and India in the field of textile technologies/machines. It is a very positive initiative which will further bring awareness of Italian technologies to the textile industry in this region.”

EU Urged to Reconsider Horizon 2020 Budget A ¤1 billion cut in the research budget of Horizon 2020 in 2015, proposed by the European Commission, could affect over 600 collaborative projects, according to Máire Geoghegan-Quinn, European commissioner for research, innovation and science. These involve more than 7,000 participants, of which around 1,400 are small and medium enterprises, Research and innovation (R&I) programmes have already suffered from recurrent and accumulating shortfalls in payment appropriations, Ms Geoghegan-Quinn said in a speech during a debate organised by the European Parliament to delve into Horizon 2020’s structural cash shortage. Implementation of what Ms Geoghegan-Quinn called ‘drastic measures’ in order for the Commission to meet its contractual obligations had already meant the reduction of payments by up to ¤1.5 billion in research programmes for 2014. The commissioner suggested that these payment appropriations were not being tackled, but only pushed back, which would result in over 40% of Horizon 2020 commitments remaining outstanding in 2020. Moreover, Ms Geoghegan-Quinn stressed that an additional ¤230 million was urgently needed for Research Directorates General before the end of 2014 to avoid payment delays. “An outcome which provided for such a cut in the spending originally proposed by the Commission for 2015 would seriously put into question the reputation of the Union as a reliable funder

of research,” she said. “This is a dramatic situation for a flagship policy that is intended to support jobs, growth and competitiveness. It is also highly regrettable in the current economic situation, given our collective search for growth enhancing measures, and knowing that research and innovation lie at the heart of new growth and jobs.”

Máire Geoghegan-Quinn

ISSUE 7 2014

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Dubai Textile Fair Launched The Middle East’s $56 billion textile industry is set to get a further boost with the launch of the International Textile Fair, which will be held from November 3-4, 2014, at Dubai International exhibition and Conference Centre. Some of the biggest names from the global textile industry have confirmed participation, including major players from Italy, France, Spain, India, Pakistan, Mongolia, Taiwan and Hong Kong, according to the organiser. Show organiser Dilip Nihalani, whose company Nihalani Brothers is one of the oldest players in Dubai’s textile trade, said: “With Dubai joining more established cities hosting textile shows on a regular basis, almost everyone connected with the textile industry and keen to consolidate their position in the Middle East is keen to be part of the International Textile Fair in Dubai. “We are proud that with the launch of ITF we have put Dubai on the calendar of global textile fairs.” Exhibitors that have confirmed their participation are upbeat about ITF and the Middle East potential for textile industry growth. Vittoria Annunzi, of I.MA. TEX of Italy, a confirmed participant, said: “We have been waiting for a long time for a platform that

would bring all textile traders under one umbrella. We are delighted that Dubai will have its own International Textile Fair from this year. We expect substantial business through this event because the market is very large.” The maiden International Textile Fair in Dubai also generated interest and excitement among Dubai’s textile traders and the two-day event is supported by the Textile Merchants Group (TEXMAS) which represents 800 wholesale textile

traders of Dubai. “Traditionally, Dubai has been a strategic hub for the region’s textile trade for decades,” said Ashok Savlani, a leading textile merchant and a key official of TEXMAS. “We believe that the International Textile Fair in Dubai will give a global exposure to UAE’s and the region’s potential for the growth of this industry. We are confident the ITF will further consolidate Dubai’s status as a dynamic textile trading centre.”

James Heal Acquired by Investment Firm James Heal, the 142-year-old textile testing instrument and test materials manufacturer, has been acquired by Battery Ventures, a Boston, USA based investment firm focused on technology and innovation. James Heal offers a comprehensive product line of test instruments, test materials, services and calibration to the global textile and garment market. The company tests a wide range of textile properties including strength, abrasion, colour-fastness, flammability, pilling, snagging and shrinking. “We are very proud to be associated

with the James Heal brand and the team; they are universally recognised as the technology, quality and thought leaders in the textile testing market,” said Jesse Feldman, general partner at Battery, which has $4.7 billion in assets under management. Terms of the transaction were not disclosed but s statement said Battery’s additional resources would support increased investment in technology at Heal’s and complementary acquisitions. “Battery is an experienced and knowledgeable investor in the test and measurement market,” said David Repper,

managing director at James Heal since 1982. “We look forward to working together to continue the James Heal methodology of unparalleled textile-technology expertise, design and innovation.” Following the acquisition, Amanda McLaren, the company’s current manufacturing director, will take over the responsibilities of managing director. Mr Repper will continue to be involved as a consultant to James Heal on a part-time basis to assist with product development, customer relations and operations, and also to help to ensure a smooth transition period. INTERNATIONAL DYER

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BASF Raises Dye and Pigment Prices

BASF has increased its prices for many pigments and dyes by up to 15% worldwide. The products affected are predomi-

nantly azo pigments, yellow and red high performance pigments, effect pigments, phthalocyanines and dyes. The company sais price increases were

necessary due to significantly higher raw-materials costs and the rising cost of environment regulation, health and safety and maintenance.

TenCate Gets Funding for Inkjet Coating Project Technical-textile giant TenCate and a consortium of partners have received funding from regional authorities in the Netherlands, for a research centre to help further their aim of developing inkjet technology to apply functional textile coatings. The Province of Overijssel has granted a ¤1.5 million development subsidy to be invested in TenCate’s innovation centre, known as The Factory of the Future. The total value of the project is around ¤6 million. According to TenCate the objective of the project, which includes development of the Osiris digital printer, equipped

with continuous heads, is to make the production of advanced TenCate materials, such as protective fabrics, even more efficient, sustainable and smart. The Osiris inkjet technology was originally developed by Hengelobased Osiris Inkjet Technology and the machine was known as the Isis. It was acquired by TenCate when Osiris eventually went into receivership. TenCate says its continuous inkjet technology, using Imaje print heads, achieves extremely high production speeds, which make it ideally suited as a sustainable finishing technology for

technical textiles. Theo Rietkerk, a member of the Provincial Executive of Overijssel, said: “Innovation is the key focus area in strengthening the competitiveness of our country. Overijssel is regarded as one of the main drivers of the Dutch knowledge economy. The current era of the Internet of Things requires that the innovation strengths we already have be enhanced, renewed and connected. Thanks to this groundbreaking project the consortium led by TenCate will make a contribution to smart production, smart materials and the development of smart business models.”

Osiris printer

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Companies Named in US Denim Patent Investigation Several top denim companies are expected to figure in an investigation by the US International Trade Commission into alleged infringement of a patent held by laser technology specialist RevoLaze. The ITC has voted to institute a so-called 337 Investigation of 17 denim jean companies after a complaint filed by Westlake, Ohio, based Revolaze on August 18. The named companies include Abercrombie & Fitch, American Eagle Outfitters, Diesel, Eddie Bauer, Gap, Guess?, H&M Hennes & Mauritz, Roberto Cavalli, Levi Strauss and VF Corporation.

Lisa Sachdev, of the law firm Dentons, representing RevoLaze, said: “From the beginning we were confident that there was overwhelming evidence to support the investigation. We’re pleased with the ITC’s decision to move forward.” RevoLaze CEO Dr Darryl Costin, who spent the past two decades researching and developing RevoLaze’s proprietary laser scribing technology for the denim industry, said: “Our goal has always been to help the denim industry grow. We want to protect workers from the potentially life-threatening

side-effects of sandblasting. We want to continue to introduce technology that conserves the environment while increasing quality, throughput and productivity. Our proprietary technology is aimed at accomplishing all that.” He added: “We want companies that are using RevoLaze’s patented technology to do so legally. That is why we asked the ITC to provide us protection. “We are hoping for speedy relief from the ITC so we can stop the unauthorized and infringing imports from entering the country.”

Textile Industry Awaiting Clarity on EU-Vietnam FTA

By Jens Kastner Vietnam’s textile industry is still unsure about the potential impact of the proposed EU-Vietnam free-trade agreement (FTA), despite a comment by outgoing European Commission president José Manuel Barroso, on his late-August visit to the country, that the pact was almost complete and predictions from state media that the signing would take place in October. Anxiously awaiting an announcement on the rules of origins that will apply, industry sources warn that Vietnam’s up- and mid-stream textile plants are so dependent on imported inputs that if the FTA does not cover raw materials acquired outside the country, the whole pact will be meaningless to them. “In our three Vietnamese factories, we use many different raw materials the country cannot produce, so that we need to import them from China, Korea, India, Malaysia and so forth,” said Michael Grosbøl, CEO of Danish workwear manufacturer Mascot International, which

has three plants in Vietnam. “If the rules of origin will work out strict, the FTA’s textile-tariff reductions from about 12% to 0% would not benefit my company at all.” However, with generous rules of origin, Mascot’s Vietnamese operations would become globally much more competitive through the FTA. In the global textile supply chain, Vietnam primarily delivers labour, on which it is more competitive than China in terms of the supply and wage scale. But the country’s spinners churn out mainly basic acrylic and acryliccotton yarns, while its weavers, dyers and finishers are also generally far from being able to supply raw materials of the quality require to meet the EU’s stringent, such as the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification system and compliance with the EU’s Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) system. According to Mr Grosbøl, Mascot Interna-

tional had recently harboured plans to invest in a Vietnamese dyehouse, but the perceived local ‘total lack of skill’ prevented the firm from carrying out the transaction, so that the fabric still has to be dyed in the UK, China, Korea and Thailand, among other countries. “You need managers and technicians with an understanding of quality, and you need a laboratory, a colour kitchen and computerisation,” he said. “But the expert team we had flown in just shook their heads, declaring a co-operation mission impossible, given all that backwardness they encountered.” Meanwhile, Bui Trong Nguyen, secretary general of the Saigon Association of Garment-Textile-Embroidery-Knitting (AGTEK) said Vietnam’s own up- and mid-stream textile plants would be able to supply more sophisticated yarns ‘in three to five years at the soonest’. Mr Grosbøl foresees a 15-year timeframe for dying processes and finishing, with his

ISSUE 7 2014

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bleak assessment based on the experience of China, which “spent many years to get to that point and is still not at same level as EU suppliers of fabrics.” But there is yet another point of concern: Vietnam-based textile companies hope the EU-Vietnam FTA will address labour restrictions. In recent years the Vietnamese authorities have made it increasingly difficult to obtain work permissions for expat staff – requiring, for example, since 2012, that each extension of an expat work permit should be matched by a training contract with a Vietnamese national, in order to replace the expat staff member once the extension expires. “All expats are subject to these regulations, even the most senior, at CEO level,” Mr Grosbøl observed. “Such restrictions have been met with repeated appeals from EuroCham [the European Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam] and other business organisations, but so far the Vietnamese authorities seem adamant to continue with even more restrictions.”

Vietnam’s spinners produce mainly basic acrylic and acrylic-cotton yarn

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Grant for Dyeing Novelty THE EFFORT TO find innovative ways to reduce water usage in the textile dyeing process continues on various fronts. At the University of Georgia in Athens, the department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors (TMI) within the UGA College of Family and Consumer Sciences has received a grant from the Walmart US Manufacturing Innovation Fund to help support a team of scientists working on an environmentally friendly fabric dyeing technique. The $171,371 grant was awarded to TMI professor Sergiy Minko and his team, in partnership with Clemson University, in support of their project ‘Novel, sustainable and cost-effective textile dyeing techniques using nano-cellulosic fibers’. This project focuses on an innovative approach to fabric dyeing using nano-cellulose, obtained from widely available cellulose in wood and in cellulosic waste products generated on farms and in industry. The technique will greatly reduce, and perhaps eliminate, the need for water in dyeing cotton and cotton/polyester, fabrics and yarns. “I am very excited to receive this grant that will take our nano-cellulose research to the next level of producing green textiles,” said TMI assistant professor Suraj Sharma. “This research also might support textile supply-chain initiatives to bring manufacturing – wet processing such as dyeing, printing and finishing – back in the US and may boost local employment and create awareness about green technologies.” The proposed technology will be based on dyeing textiles using coloured nano-cellulose that permanently binds to the cotton textile surface as a uniform thin film. The team believes that, because of the high binding forces of dyes to fibres through

From John McCurry North America Correspondent

nano-cellulose, lesser amounts of dyes can be used, and dye remaining in the waste water can be almost eliminated.

Disruptive Technologies In California, a start-up firm that hopes to marry two technologies also seeks to reduce the usage of water in the dyeing process. AM4U (Apparel Made for You), which is pairing the disruptive technologies of purchase-activated and on-demand manufacturing with a waterless dyeing and printing process, expects to soon sign the first contracts for commercialisation. Bill Grier, president and founder of the company, describe the waterless process, called Active Tunnel Coloration (ATC), as a technology that offers the ability to change colour and prints on the fly. He says the machine can ‘harness the energy’ stored in the fabric itself to do the dye and print process. He said the energy stored during the process of making the synthetic fibre (primarily polyester and nylon) itself is releasable by the process in the ATC machine. Mr Grier likened the process to that of selecting a paint colour at Home Depot or Lowes, where colours are selected and blended with basic white paint, rather than the stores stocking huge inventories of pre-mixed paint colours. “Apparel is the place to go with this. The whole industry will flip over this. Just like we have many craft breweries in this country, we will have many factories. These jobs will be here in the US.” If the AM4U technologies become successful on a large, commercialised scale, as Mr Grier believes, it could reduce over-production of apparel and reduce the need for outsourcing. “It will redefine the way we manufacture,” Mr Grier said. “It will change supply and demand to demand and supply and eliminate

‘This research might support textile supply-chain initiatives to bring manufacturing back in the US’

the need for inventory.” AM4U started picking up steam in May following the Texprocess Americas exhibition in Atlanta, where it was featured in a new technology pavilion organized by TC2. AM4U was subsequently overwhelmed with requests for sample runs. “Generally, companies send us some of their fabric, prepared to print with their artwork,” Mr Grier said. “We produce a sample piece and we usually add to this some of the other possibilities of what we can do, such as pull-through colour or a separate colour on the back.”

Sergiy Minko

Bill Grier

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Indonesia Electricity Hike Encourages On-Site Cogeneration By Jack Hewson, in Jakarta INDONESIA’S UPSTREAM TEXTILE industry is turning to on-site combined heat and power (CHP) on the back of double-digit electricity-price hikes this year, according to an industry insider. Nils Hansen, sales director for Jakartabased Navigat Energy, which supplies gas-turbine engines in Indonesia, says CHP is becoming an increasingly attractive option as the country’s textile manufacturers seek to avoid spiralling energy bills. Ideal textile-sector versions of the technology (also known as cogeneration) range from small-scale natural-gas turbines generating of 1 megawatt (MW), to larger installations of 10MW, using exhaust heat for other operational purposes. Excess heat can generate steam or hot water, or can be connected to an absorption chiller to generate cooled water for air conditioning for workers. CHP heat can also generate hot water used in dyeing and finishing and the air conditioning is also used to control the climate in yarn spinning, particularly helpful in Indonesia’s tropical climate.

The Indonesian textile sector is feeling the pressure of power bills. The government, backed by the House of Representatives (Dewan Perwakilan Rakyat), agreed in January to raise electricity tariffs for industrial users from May 1. These increases range from 40% to 65% and have been implemented gradually every two months from May, with the increases concluding in November. The government expects to save about Indonesian Rupiah IDR8.9 trillion (US$774 million) in electricity subsidies once the new tariffs are fully implemented. Indonesia’s rapid economic growth (averaging just under 6% for the last decade) is pushing annual electricity-demand growth of 7%-8.5% - growth that the archipelago’s creaking energy infrastructure is struggling to meet. Power outages are common, and taking electricity generation in-house makes sense for manufacturing processes that require a constant source of power. Polyfin Canggih, one of Navigat’s clients based in Bandung, West Java, operates a

2MW CHP engine to produce polyester fibre. “[For this process] power outages are terrible but even changes in electrical frequency will actually affect the thickness of the yarn,” said Mr Hansen, adding that Navigat has seven textile-producing clients in Java with a combined installed co-gen capacity of approximately 40MW. At current gas prices onsite power is approximately the same price as buying from the grid, but the additional manufacturing efficiency that come from using cogeneration allows Navigat’s textile clients to make savings, said Mr Hansen. As the bill hikes were quite new, it was hard to predict how much additional demand for such systems would be generated. “But the textile sector is already about 20% to 30% of Navigat’s total Indonesian business,” he said, adding that he expected other textile manufacturers to endorse CHP going forward: “Once your competitors are already introducing this system to reduce production costs, you as a competitor have to follow.”

Italy’s Textile Industry Supports TTIP By Brenda Dionisi, in Milan SENIOR FIGURES IN the Italian textile sector are optimistic that their industry will benefit should the European Union (EU) and the USA strike a deal during negotiations for a planned Transatlantic Trade & Investment Partnership (TTIP). Eliminating or reducing tariffs on textiles at the US border would offer significant gains to Italy’s textile producers, said Filippo Laviani, a Europe and international trade regulation

specialist with Italy’s largest fashion trade association Sistema Moda Italia: “Customs tariffs [in the US] are still high, like for example, the circa 20% tariff applied to wool men’s suits imports and the 32% duty applied to T-shirts made of synthetic fibres,” he told International Dyer. Citing figures from Euratex, the European Apparel and Textile Confederation, Mr Laviani

said that “we can expect the [Italian textile] industry to grow, due solely to the elimination of customs tariffs, by at least 7%.” But he argued there would be other benefits: “This calculation, however, does not take into account, of course, the exchange rate nor does it consider the positive effects resulting from the elimination of NTBs [non-tariff barriers].” Indeed, there seems to be a consensus

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across the industry that real benefits of the TTIP would also come from removing costly NTBs, aligning standards and procedures in the EU and the US, such as labelling and chemical classifications. Paola Corbani, market analyst with the Bergamo-based Radici Group, a world leader in the production of polyamide, polyester, acrylic and polypropylene woven and nonwoven yarns, stressed current differences between the EU and US regarding the textile sector over the definition of rules of origin: “The US is pushing for a ‘triple transformation’ rule where at least three phases of textile production are carried out in the same country while the EU supports ‘double transformation’, or rather, the rule that two phases of textile production are carried out in the same country,” Ms Corbani explained, adding that the triple transformation requirement would better protect American

producers and damage many EU producers who, for example, do not manage the entire supply chain in-house but carry out certain production phases (such as fibre spinning or dying) in other EU countries or in Asia. Another key issue will be finding regulatory convergence on environmental, health and safety standards, said Ms Corbani: “One of the most debated issues of the TTIP is harmonising the divergent regulatory frameworks regarding chemicals and consumer health and safety in the EU and the US.” She explained that the EU’s Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) system is notably tougher than regulations administered by the US’ Food & Drug Administration and the Environmental Protection Agency. “It remains to be seen whether the US agencies approve the EU’s more rigorous REACH assessments and certifications,” said Ms Corbani.

According to Mr Laviani, other issues to be resolved include greater access for foreign companies to public procurement tenders in the US and the “elimination of specific NTBs that hinder trade on both sides of the Atlantic, such as very lengthy customs controls,” while Ms Corbani notes that unfavourable currency exchange rates and the higher energy costs in Europe could hinder TTIP economic returns for EU chemical and textile producers. “The TTIP is complex and the textile and clothing industries in the US are much stronger than those in the EU, which means that there are various aspects and technicalities to consider. Although the deal could provide many opportunities for Italian textile producers, especially at the higher end of the market, the devil will be in the details and we will have to wait and see how negotiations go,” Ms Corbani concluded.

Energy Shortages Trim Pakistan Export Growth By Rahimullah Yusufzai PAKISTAN’S MINISTRY OF textile industry has claimed that textile and clothing exports to the European Union (EU) increased by 18% from January-June 2014 compared to last year, following its membership of the revised EU Generalised Scheme of Preferences Plus (GSP+) for low tariffs. Kanwar Usman, director research and development at the ministry, said: “Garments have done better than other products due to the 9.6% concession on duty.” According to Mr Usman, Pakistan was hoping to export additional textile products worth $800-$1,000m in 2014 as a result of the GSP+. “During the last six months, we exported textile products valued at around $427m on the strength of the GSP+. Pakistan could have done better but we were given limited concessions by the EU and these too were linked to issues of good governance,” he argued. Speaking to Pakistan journalists in July, Pakistan’s commerce minister Khurram

Dastgir said exports to the European markets between July 2013 and May 2014 had grown $700m year-on-year because of the GSP+, with the textile and clothing sector getting the major share of this increase. However, he added that the share of the country’s non-textile products had decreased following the Pakistani Rupee’s recent appreciation against the US dollar. Although the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics reported a 5.3% increase in exports of textile and clothing to $13.738bn during the previous financial year of June 2013 to June 2014, compared to $13.047bn the previous year, with value-added products performing well, acute energy shortages in recent months have had a negative impact on overseas sales. The bureau report said in June 2014, exports fell by 1.52% compared with the same month of last year, as a result. The country’s textile industry minister, Abbas Khan Afridi has also noted that the decline

in exports in June 2014 was mainly due to energy shortages, particularly in Punjab. S.M. Tanveer, chairman of the Punjab chapter of the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APMTA), pointed out that textile exports registered a drop of 2.37% in July 2014, primarily because of the energy crisis, with power-hungry sectors such as weaving and spinning experiencing lower production. “This is despite the fact that the share of textiles in Pakistan’s total exports rose to 64% in July 2014. The GSP-Plus granted by the EU since January 2014 saved our exports from taking a plunge,” he added. Former APTMA Punjab chairman, Shahzad Ali Khan warned that the serious energy crisis and the ongoing political instability in the country would cause a further fall in exports as spinning mills were closing down. “We need a regular supply of energy at affordable rates to increase exports and benefit from the GSP-Plus,” he said. INTERNATIONAL DYER

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Nanosilver ‘Poses Less Risk of Water Contamination’ Nano-coated textiles release hardly any nano-particles during washing, according to Prof Dr Bernd Nowack of the technology and society division at Empa, Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology. During each wash cycle, a certain amount of the silver may be washed out of the textiles and end up in the wastewater. Following analysis of this water, Empa found that when the ‘nano’ form of silver was used, very few particles were released. In contrast, analysis of water from the washing of textiles coated with conventional silver showed many particles. The scientists explained that, in nano-coated textiles, considerably less silver was incorporated

into the fabrics, so it was released in smaller quantities. According to Empa, this result could have a transformative effect on future analyses and on the treatment of silver-treated textiles. “All silver textiles behave in a similar manner – regardless of whether they are nano- or conventionally coated,” said Dr Nowack. Empa believes, based on these findings, that nano-textiles should not be subjected to stricter regulation than textiles with conventional silver coatings. The researchers consider that small quantities of silver are not a risk in the environment, as exposed silver reacts with sulphur to form silver sulphite – an insoluble

substance that settles at the bottom of wastewater sedimentation tanks and is incinerated with sewage sludge. Dr Nowack’s team is next looking to investigate how silver textiles respond to various ordinary laundry detergents. Studies have shown that some active ingredients of laundry detergents can alter the form in which silver is present. Researchers have detected silver ions in textile fabrics before washing, whereas after washing the silver appeared to be in elemental or compound form. According to Dr Nowack, silver textiles ultimately contain a number of silver compounds that constantly change and undergo chemical transformations, not just during washing.

A nanosilver particle

New Blues from DyStar The DyStar Denim Team has developed four new blues based on DyStar’s patented Indigo Vat 40% Solution. Sky Blue is a bright blue that has a clear look after the wash-down process is applied; Ever Blue is a ring dyeing and keeps jeans blue after washing and fading; Full Blue is a core dyeing to make jeans appear bluish after wash down; and Deep Blue is a special process to provide

an extremely dark shade and more resistance to fading, explained DyStar. Thorsten Hüls, head of marketing and sales for denim, said: “With these new developments, the DyStar denim team continues the way to offer the best and most innovative solutions to our Indigo Solution customers.” The core product is DyStar Indigo Vat 40%

solution which, according to the company, allows a cleaner indigo dyeing process and a reduction of the Sodium hydrosulfite usage by 60%-70%. “We don’t only want to provide the best product, we also want to be an inspiration for denim fashion by launching these fresh new blues,” said Naceur Azraq, global technical manager for denim. INTERNATIONAL DYER

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US Congress Proposes ‘Allowable Use’ Chemicals Law The US Congress has recently introduced a proposal to establish a list of chemicals that are considered to be persistent, bio-accumulative and toxic (PBTs) with allowable uses. The Administrator of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) would be charged to identify allowable uses as well as to protect public health and the environment. On 24 July 2014, the US Congress introduced S.2656 ‘Protecting America’s Families from Toxic Chemicals Act of 2014.’ The act requires the administrator of the EPA to establish a list of chemicals that are persistent, bio-accumulative and toxic (PBT) and to list allowable uses for PBT chemicals. Under the proposal, a list of PBTs would be established within 180 days after the criteria to identify substances as PBTs have been finalised. The proposal also lists 21 chemicals that meet the criteria of PBTs based on existing evidence. According to the proposal, the administrator of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is charged to:

• Identify allowable uses • Specify a date when to cease the manufacture and distribution of PBT substances not identified for allowable uses • Identify conditions to protect public health and the environment, including disposal of chemical applicable to the allowed uses • Consider petitions to allow future allowable uses of PBT chemicals There is also a presumption to allow specific uses of: • Cadmium and its compounds • Lead and its compounds • Mercury • PFOS and PFOSF A briefing on the proposals was circulated by SGS, which provides analytical testing and consultancy for chemical substances in consumer products for the US and international markets.

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High Fixation at Lower Rinsing Temperatures Bezema has expanded the range of its Bezaktiv GO reactive dyes, designed to save water and energy by reducing the number and temperature of the rinsing baths. The original ternary system of Bezaktiv Orange GO, Bezaktiv Red GO and Bezaktiv Navy GO has been extended to a range of eight dyes, producing a wider range of colours. Bezema says its GO process gives effective results with rinsing baths at 40°C in most applications, with fewer rinsing baths required. Only small amounts of hydrolysate are produced and the use of Cotoblanc SEL in the second rinsing bath further improves rinsing efficiency.

fastnesses are achieved when the process is completed with a cationic after-treatment. In addition, they are said to be perfectly suitable for all common processes in exhaust, semi-continuous and continuous dyeing. In exhaust process, Bezema says optimum dyeing temperature for Bezaktiv GO dyes is 40-60°C, depending on the machinery used - for example, for yarn, dense articles or viscose a higher temperature is advantageous. The dyes can be used both on a wide range of dyeing-

machine types, including both jet and beam dyeing machines. Bezema claims the reduced temperature of dyeings with Bezaktiv GO dyes leads to increased process reliability due to better control of fixation speed and reduced hydrolysis of unfixed dye, for the highest possible colour yield. If the dosage is monitored, sodium carbonate and caustic soda can be added simultaneously. Progressive alkali dosing gives a steadily increasing fixing curve and therefore the best possible levelness, according to the company.

Newer colours in the range are: • Bezaktiv Golden Yellow GO – a brighter alternative to Bezaktiv Orange GO • Bezaktiv Scarlet GO – an alternative to Bezaktiv Red GO for light-fast dyeing results • Bezaktiv Blue GO – for bright blue and green shades • Bezaktiv Dark Blue GO – an alternative to Bezaktiv Navy GO for light-fast dyeing results • Bezaktiv Black GO – a deep black, described as having the highest fastness properties after rinsing baths at just 60°C Bezema says Bezaktiv GO dyes do not only fix rapidly during the exhaust process, but can also increase productivity in the CPB process. Whereas standard dyes normally need a minimum fixing time of 12-16 hours to be fully fixed, Bezaktiv GO dyes reach their fully fixed condition at an ambient temperature of 20-25°C after a dwell time of six hours or less. The dyes’ high fixation values enable the washing-off of hydrolysate at 40-60°C in 3-4 rinsing baths. The temperature and the number of rinsing baths depend on colour depth, carry-over and liquor ratio. Perfect wet INTERNATIONAL DYER

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Textile Flame Retardancy: Regulations and Developments By Dr Ian Holme, Technical Editor

Different Jurisdictions Reflect Varying Approaches to Safety Legislation In 2012 the number of fires in the USA reached 1,375,000, of which over 480,000 were in building structures. About 80% of these structure fires were in US homes and property losses from fires are increasing.1 In 2012 property loss from fires was around US$12.4 billion, an increase of around 6.6% compared with 2011. Another matter of great concern is that the death rate in home fires has not declined and remains around the same level as it was in the 1970s. A sobering statistic is that some 2,855 people were killed by fire in 2012 in the USA and around 16,500 were injured. From the US fire statistics a new economic assessment report by the US National Fire Protection Association has put the total cost of fire in the USA at US$329 billion.2 This massive cost equates to around 2.1% of the GDP (Gross Domestic Product) of the USA in 2011. The fire cost includes the direct economic losses due to fire, together with fire-insurance and building fire-safety costs. It also includes the statistical cost of fire deaths, fire injuries and also firefighting costs. One result of these fire statistics has been the initiative of the US National Fire Protection Association, which has launched a public consultation on the need for an open-flame fire-safety test for upholstered furniture. It has been estimated that upholstered furniture in the USA is responsible for around 25% of all home fire deaths, over 600 human fatalities per year.3 Open-flame ignition of upholstered furniture causes some 31% of these deaths. These are the result of the furniture

catching fire directly by open-flame ignition sources such as candles and matches, or alternatively through other burning items in fires arising from other ignition systems. It is well-established that the foams used in upholstered furniture can burn rapidly if they have not been flame-retarded (ie. by the use of CM (combustion-modified) foam). Untreated foam leads to a fast fire spread with the production of high temperatures and smoke emission. Furniture is considered to have contributed significantly to the much-shorter time to ‘flashover’ in home fires over the last few decades and this has endangered both the home occupants and US firefighters. The US National Fire Protection Association has stated it “feels strongly that a fully comprehensive fire safety regulation of upholstered furniture must address the full spectrum of major fire scenarios, including the open-flame scenarios.” In the UK the Furniture and Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations 1988 have been responsible for saving many lives from fire. These UK Regulations have set levels of fire resistance for domestic upholstered furniture, furnishings and other products containing upholstery. Amendments to these UK Regulations are currently being drafted and being considered in a wide-ranging consultation process with the industry and public organisations. The introduction of new approaches to flame-retardant textile materials since the 1980s, the current demand for ‘greener’ furniture in respect of environmental and health issues, and the issues surrounding

decreasing the end-of-life disposal into landfill have stimulated a review of the current fire-testing methods for upholstery. However, any amendments will only be agreed by the UK government minister on the proviso that the current fire safety levels must be maintained. The issues have been discussed in a recent article in International Dyer.4 The main changes, which are scheduled to be introduced in April 2015 and enforceable from October 2016, will incorporate a new match test for cover fabrics, to be carried out over combustionmodified foam. In the current test method non-flame-retardant foam is used, but this is increasingly in short supply because the foam industry is now producing combustion-modified foam. The main changes to be introduced according the European Flame Retardant Association (EFRA) include5: • removal of the invisible-linings cigarette resistance test • removal of the visible cigarette resistance test for covers which are match-resistant • regulation of lining fabrics which are behind the visible cover by incorporation into the new visible covers test (with the exemption of nonwoven polypropylenes with fabric weights of less than 90g/m2, eg. Corovin) • Regulation of materials within 40mm of the visible cover by means of a modified version of the match test These changes are intended to modernise the UK Regulations and help to raise

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<Technical Briefing> Flame Retardants

US Congress Considers FR Restrictions International testing house SGS, in a recent bulletin, has drawn attention to a proposal introduced at the US Congress, to restrict 10 flame retardants in children’s products and upholstered furniture. If signed into law, the Act will take effect on the date of enactment. On September 15, Congress introduced S.2811 ‘Children and Fire Fighters Protection Act of 2014’ to restrict ten flame retardants in children’s products or upholstered furniture. The chemicals are generally halogenated flame retardants, with antimony trioxide as the only inorganic substance included on the list. The proposal also calls on the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) to appoint a Chronic Hazard Advisory Panel (CHAP) to study the effects on human health of all chemical flame retardants that may be used in children’s products or upholstered furniture and to make recommendations. The Commission shall evaluate the findings and to promulgate a

final rule within 180 days upon receipt of the report from CHAP. The proposal would take effect on the date of enactment and the restriction of the

fire safety standards. The current UK Regulations use the old testing method which has previously been criticised by several European Union Member States. In the coming months a public consultation will be held by the UK Department of Business, Innovation and Skills. In California the authorities have put forward a proposal that represents a step backwards in fire safety. Their proposal, to replace the current TB117 open-flame resistance requirement by a very weak requirement of resistance to a smouldering cigarette only, has been widely criticised

by a number of fire-safety experts, fire safety and fire fighters’ organisations and consumer safety experts.6 In the UK the effectiveness of the national flame-retardancy regulations for bedding and for upholstered furniture have been called into question by a BBC investigation.7 This revealed that several of the country’s leading retailers were selling products that would fail flammability tests. This programme reflects some of the issues and concerns of the UK textile-finishing and coating companies and there are strong opinions that these need to be addressed to ensure

flame retardants would be enforced 1 year after the date of enactment. Highlights of the proposal are summarised in the above Table. that the UK’s Furniture and Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations continue to set the ‘gold standard’ for fire safety in this important textile area. In India the Government has consulted upon proposed textile fire-resistance standards which are to be made applicable to all textiles sold in India as curtains and drapes, as well as for upholstered non-domestic furniture and in fire-protective and worker-protective clothing.8 As a result, the proposed legislation would require textile materials that are sold for curtains and drapes to be ignition-resistant according

References 1. http://www.nfpa.org/research/statistical-reports/overall-fire-statistics/fire-loss-in-the-united states. 2. J Hall, NFPA Fire Analysis & Research, 27 March 2014 (http://www.nfpa.org/TotalCost). 3. NFPA Journal Sept/Oct 2013 (http://www.nfpa.org/newsandpublications/nfpa-journal/2013/september-october-2013/). 4. I Holme, International Dyer, 198, Issue 8 (2014) 22. 5. Fire away! The EFRA Newsletter, August (2014) 15. 6. Pinfa newsletter No.33, September (2013) 1. 7. International Dyer, 199, Issue 2 (2014) 4. 8. Draft legislation submitted to public consultation (http://texmin.nic.in/others/Draft%20FR%20Textiles%20-%20Gazette%20Notification.pdf). 9. Pinfa newsletter No. 37, January (2014) 5. 10. World Flame Retardants to 2016 – Demand and Sales Forecasts, Market Share, Market Size, Market Leaders, Report No. 2987, Freedonia

Group (February, 2013). 11. Flame Retardant Market by Type – Global Trends & Forecast to 2019 (marketsandmarkets.com, August 2014).

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<Book Review> Flame Retardants

Update on Flame Retardant Textiles: State of the Art, Environmental Issues and Innovative Solutions Authors: Jenni Alongi, A Richard Horrocks, Federico Carosio and Giulio Marucelli Publisher: Smithers Rapra Technology Ltd, UK Publication: 2013 Pages: xııı + 348 ISBN: 978-1-90903-017-6 (hardback) Price: £80, US$130, ¤100 This excellent book provides a critical and concise summary of the latest developments in flame-retardant textiles. The book contains eight chapters, with major contributions from Professor Richard Horrocks, an acknowledged world expert in the field of flame retardancy. The chapters are written in a logical sequence, starting with the burning hazards of textiles and terminology, fundamental aspects of flame retardancy, and regulatory and testing requirements for flame-retardant textile applications. Two major chapters then provide an overview of traditional flameretardant solutions (including coating and back-coating technologies) and inherently flame-resistant fibres. The important areas of flame-retardant and environmental issues are then reviewed, followed by two chapters covering

more-recent developments. These describe the nanostructuring of synthetic fibres and a final chapter from the Italian co-authors on smart (nano) coatings. Each chapter is carefully structured, and provided with copious references. There is a very useful list of the abbreviations found in the text, supported by an extensive index, both of which the reader will find helpful. This book is a major contribution to the study of the flame retardancy of natural and synthetic fibres and fabrics. It provides a sound foundation for understanding the various approaches adopted in current flame-retardant technology for textiles, as well as looking forward to potential innovative flame-retardant solutions based on nanotechnology and smart coatings. This book provides essential information for students and for academic and industrial

researchers working in this important field, as well as for chemical suppliers and textile manufacturers. It is strongly recommended for all those involved in the manufacture, testing, and production of flame-retardant textile materials for both apparel and technical textiles. I.H.

to Indian Standard IS15471:2007. Textiles and composite materials that are sold for non-domestic furniture would have to be ignition-resistant according to IS15768:2007. Research and development into flame retardants for textile materials and for polyurethane foams is continuing and the main trend currently is to investigate potential-flame retardant systems that are non-halogenated, because of current concerns over the potential for the possible ecotoxicological effects of halogenated products. The Phosphorus, Inorganic & Nitrogen Flame Retardants Association (pinfa) has recently referred to the work by the Swiss Institute EMPA (Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology) in St Gallen in the production of phosphorus-based flame retardants for use with flexible polyurethane foams.9 These novel phosphoramidate flame retardants were developed in cooperation with the Swiss Commission for Technology and Innovation (CTI) and the Swiss company FoamPartner, a leader in polyurethane foam technologies.

The phosphoramidate flame retardants exhibit low volatility, which is an advantage because the risk of losses into the air is decreased. The flame retardants are easy to synthesise and offer generally good compatibility with the polyurethane foam. A relatively low dose of the phosphoramidate flame retardant is used in order to achieve fire-safety standards and there are low emissions of toxic gases in the case of fire. Research has demonstrated that phosphoramidate functions mainly in the gas phase, suppressing the fire by its release in the first stages of foam decomposition (up to 350°C) in a fire, and prevention of the oxidation of hydrogen and hydroxyl free radicals in the fire development gases. The world demand for flame-retardant additives for all types of applications, including textiles, has been forecast by the Freedonia Group to rise by 5.4% per year to 2.6 million metric tons in 2016. Over half of this demand will come from the Asia/ Pacific region, which will continue to be the largest and fastest-growing market. The

study forecasts that boron and phosphorus compounds will be among the fastest-growing types.10 Another market report on the global flame-retardant market has been published by marketsandmarkets.com.11 This forecasts that the flame-retardant chemicals market will grow at a healthy pace in the next five years. By 2019 the market globally is estimated to reach US$ 10,340 million, with Asia/Pacific dominating the flame-retardant chemicals market because of its high usage in various end-user industries. The factors driving the growth will include high demand from current and emerging applications, demand from emerging economies and advancement in technology. The construction and automotive industry and other major end-user industries of flame retardant chemicals are increasing significantly globally. Hindrance to growth of the market are the increasing regulations to protect the environment and increasing prices from the major flame retardant chemical producers because of rising feedstock costs. ID

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<Technical Briefing> Flame Retardants

New Proposals Reduce Safety and Add Regulation Proposals to amend the UK’s Furniture Flammability Regulations have proved controversial. Here Peter Wragg, co-ordinator of the Flame Retardant Textiles Network (FRETWORK), delivers his scathing assessment.

Many readers will have seen the recently announced proposals from the UK’s Department of Business, Innovation and Skills (BIS) to amend the Furniture Flammability Regulations (FFR). These proposals1 were reported in the most recent edition of International Dyer and the changes are summarised by BIS itself as: • Match test requirement for test filling materials to change from non-combustion modified foam to combustion modified foam, in one of two forms • Exemption from the cigarette test for any fabric which passes the match test • Removal of the cigarette test for invisible linings • Regulation of lining fabrics which are directly behind the visible cover by incorporation into the new visible covers test (with the exemption of non-woven polypropylenes with weights of less than 90g/m² • Requirement to test currently unregulated materials within 40mm of the surface of the product via a modified version of the match test I would like to offer some observations on the way the process has been conducted, and on the document itself, before speculating on how industry will work with the proposals and how the application of the Regulations will develop. I shall refer to the document as the ‘Proposals’ with a capital ‘P’ to indicate where I am referring to the document. The Proposals have been brought forwards

in several stages, culminating in a document being published earlier this year as an informal proposal. Many companies and organisations, including FRETWORK, are listed as having been part of the consultation, although there is no formal definition of what this consultation may entail. The formal Proposal document was launched on August 7, 2014, with two months allowed for comment. The way of offering comment and the deadline for comment (October 7) were set out in it. So much for the process. Those who have the need, interest or inclination to read the document may be surprised to find that it comprises (at a rough estimate) 90% of justifications, clarifications and arguments surrounding the Proposals – not the least concerning the potential savings to UK industry expected from the proposed changes to the FFR. This has forced many respondents to choose between ignoring the justifications, clarifications and arguments and concentrating on a response to the Proposals themselves, or taking time to address the points made. As an example that many readers will recognise, I would cite the fact that the Proposals express great concern about the amount of chemicals currently used and the consequent problems they pose to human health and the environment, without taking very much time to mention REACH. You may now draw your own conclusion on my general opinion of the Proposals! The textile dyeing-and-finishing industry has engaged with, and will continue to engage

with, a continuing process of evaluation of the chemicals we use and the potential restriction on their use. The Proposals set a very definite agenda of reducing the requirement to use chemicals, based on the application of clearly defined safety standards that no one would argue with – provided a proper scientific rigour is applied. The Proposals seem, in part, not so much a step beyond REACH as a huge swerve around it!

The Proposals New tests are set out in the Proposals document, based on its premise of maintaining safety while reducing the regulatory burden and cutting chemical usage. I will now offer a rather different INTERNATIONAL DYER

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view of what is proposed. Under the proposed regime, cover fabrics may be tested over a combustion-modified (CM) foam plus a 200gsm polyester wrap (filling 2). If this does not form a hole it may be used in all applications without any further testing. If it forms a hole during the test of greater than 2mm it is considered non protective (it is not actually specified if this is 2mm x 2mm, or 2mm diameter, or 2 sq mm, but never fear – it will work!). It then may be tested further, directly over a CM foam (filling 1) and used as a cover in that way, ie. directly over foam. This, however, is a method of manufacture not commonly found in upholstered furniture. If it passes but forms a hole it may also only be used in normal upholstery manufacture provided the (presently) unregulated components used in the manufacture and found within 40mm of the cover fabric also meet a simple (described) ignition test. The existing FFR are described in the Proposals as a barrier to trade within the EU. Did no one notice they are actually increasing the regulation placed on furniture sold in the UK by bringing the ‘previously unregulated’ components into regulation? It seems likely that industry will choose the option that offers the simplest and best security, to ensure production can work without over-complication. It will choose filling 2 and have the components produced with a flame-retardant performance. Will that help reduce chemical usage?

Fire Safety The real problem is that we have a very profound reduction in the level of fire safety, compared with the existing FFR. We are substituting the flammable foam used at present, which, in spite of being described as illegal to use and therefore somehow ‘wrong’, actually represents a very clear case of the principle that we should test over a material that is worse than anything likely to be found in practice. The ‘Worst Case Principle’ is widely used in all areas of testing and has proved effective in promoting fire safety in UK upholstery. The Proposals are taking away the concept of the protective performance of the cover fabric itself and replacing it with a weak attempt at predicting the burning behaviour of the assembly of different materials used in upholstery manufacture. This approach is totally unproven.

The compensation proposed for the reduction in the safety previously provided by the cover fabric is to test all (most?) of the components used in upholstery manufacture. The actual practice of making upholstery involves a wide range of material combinations. Where precisely they are placed will vary with the design and construction of the upholstery. Suddenly the methods of manufacturing upholstery are becoming very important. Worse still, ensuring that upholstery on sale in the UK meets consumer-safety requirements as set out by law is a job for the Trading Standards Officers (TSOs) who work in every community. It seems they too will need to gain some new expertise! One of the factors causing concern in the textile and allied industries, and indeed up to the furniture manufacturers and retailers, is that the Proposals will render useless the vast database of test results, compiled over 25 years of operating processes designed to make upholstery cover fabrics that meet the existing FFR. This database has been developed as part of due-diligence procedures that are important, as they underpin every aspect of this trade. The TSOs also tap into this process if they find articles on sale that do not appear to meet the FFR requirements when tested. Testing of items from the retail sector is an important part of achieving consumer safety.

There is No Alternative? We are in a very unusual situation. It seems unlikely that we can slow or stop this process. The Proposals have been drawn up without the underpinning of test methods developed and tested under the due process of the British Standards Institute. Industry must find the best way forward, and evidence to date suggests that companies will try to find the kind of simple approach that is so successful with the existing regulations. It is likely that some parts of the Proposals will not be used – but we must also remember what happened with the Schedule 3 of the present regulations. A device designed as a derogation for special-case fabrics that were deemed important, but also difficult-to-treat, eventually developed into a new way of making furniture, and this actually dominated manufacture for a long period. It will be interesting to discover what industry will find in the Proposals. FRETWORK has attempted to take on all the arguments in the Proposals and also to look for alternative approaches, but without much hope of bringing about a change. EU Member States may resist the increase in regulation, which would be an interesting development. There are, in fact, interesting times ahead. ID 1. https://www.gov.uk/government/ consultations/furniture-fire-safetyregulations-proposed-amendments

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Adding Surface Functionality with Microhairs Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) engineers have fabricated a new elastic material coated with microscopic, hairlike structures that tilt in response to a magnetic field. Depending on the field’s orientation, the microhairs can tilt to form a path through which fluid can flow; the material can even direct water upward, against gravity. Each microhair, made of nickel, is about 70 microns high and 25 microns wide — about one-quarter of the diameter of a human hair. The researchers fabricated an array of the microhairs on to an elastic, transparent layer of silicone. In experiments, the magnetically activated material directed not just the flow of fluid, but also light - in the way window blinds tilt to filter the sun. Researchers said the work could lead to applications in waterproof clothing and in anti-glare ‘smart windows’ for buildings and cars. In principle, Yangying Zhu, a graduate student in MIT’s Department of Mechanical Engineering said, more-complex magnetic fields could be designed to create intricate tilting patterns throughout an array, wicking moisture in a given direction. Since the material is flexible, Evelyn Wang, an associate professor of mechanical engineering believes that it could be woven into fabric to create rain-resistant clothing. In experiments, the team piped a water solution through a syringe and on to the microhair array. Under a magnetic field, the liquid

Magnetically activated microhairs direct water in the direction required

only flowed in the direction in which the pillars tilted, while being highly fixed in all other directions. Through a combination of surface tension and tilting pillars, water climbed up the array, following the direction of the pillars. The inspiration for the microhair array came partly from nature, according to Ms Zhu. For example, human nasal passages are lined with cilia that sway back and forth to remove dust and other foreign particles. The researchers sought to engineer a dynamic, responsive material that mimics the motion of cilia, which would expand the functionality of surfaces.

High Space Demand for Techtextil 2015 With around eight months still to go before Techtextil 2015 opens its doors, 80% of the exhibition space occupied in 2013 has already been booked for next year’s International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens in Frankfurt (May 4-7). “At present, we have sold 10% more exhibition space than at the same time two years ago. Thus, given the positive situation in the world market, we expect to have four full exhibition halls at Techtextil 2015,” said Detlef Braun, member of the executive board of Messe Frankfurt. Techtextil is seeing the return of regular exhibitors, some of whom are booking larger exhibition stands, but also 15% of registrations come from companies taking part or returning for the first time. The majority of exhibitors placed in the new

Hall 6.1 come from the ‘functional apparel textiles’ product group. This year, a fourth day will be added to the programme. Techtextil will feature a variety of national pavilions. South Korea, a growing market with a great export potential, will be represented by a joint stand for the first time. Asian pavilions will also include China, India and Taiwan, and European pavilions already registered comprise Belgium, France, Italy, Portugal, Switzerland and Turkey. A US pavilion will also take part. According to the Confederation of the German Textile and Fashion Industry, sales of nonwoven products and technical textiles were positive in the first half of 2014. Very good news comes from the European Union: the Euratex association registered an increase of 4% in the production of technical and industrial textiles from January to May 2014 compared

to the same period last year. Exports within the EU (+4 %) and exports to non EU-countries (+7%) rose, whereby Belgium and Great Britain stood out with double-digit rates of growth. The economic data from the leading textile nations outside Europe are also positive. The US textile industry reported growth of 5% in 2013, whereby sales of technical textiles are also up. China continues to expect a double-digit rate of growth in terms of sales and the production of technical textiles because domestic demand for automobiles, medical supplies and infrastructure is rising steadily, according to the organiser. Texprocess, the International Trade Fair for Processing Textile and Flexible Materials, will be held concurrently with Techtextil for the third time. INTERNATIONAL DYER

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Strong Field in Future Materials Awards

future materials awards

More than 100 entries have been received for the first ITMA Future Materials Awards, which will be held in Dresden, Germany, this November. Celebrating the best in the international technical textiles industry, the awards will be presented at a special event on the evening before the opening of the 8th Aachen-Dresden International Textile Conference. Launched last year at Techtextil in Frankfurt, the awards will be the biggest event of the year to recognise textile innovation and R&D, marking a celebration of the imagination, determination and collaboration of key players within this fast-growing segment of the industry. The awards are the brainchild of World Textile Information Network (WTiN), an international textile information provider and publisher of both Future Materials magazine and

International Dyer. Future Materials editor Sally Priestley said: “We have been delighted with both the quantity and quality of entries received for the inaugural ITMA Future Materials Awards. “Entries truly span the entire industry, from large multinational companies to niche start-ups and individual academic researchers, and covering the diverse spectrum of applications for technical textiles. “Our expert judging panel will have a hard task on their hands but we look forward to seeing who will emerge victorious in November.” The ITMA Future Materials Awards will take place at The Westin Bellevue Dresden on Wednesday, November 26. They will celebrate winners in categories including the best innovations in sustainable textiles

and processes, sportswear, protective, industrial and medical textiles. The finalists are listed on the Awards website, www. futurematerialsawards.com. WTiN managing director Mark Jarvis said: “The co-location of the ITMA Future Materials Awards and the Aachen-Dresden International Textile Conference will provide an unparalleled platform to share information, establish partnerships and facilitate networking for companies, suppliers, associations and academics across the entire technical textiles value chain. “We are looking forward to a night of networking and celebration with the shining stars that are shaping our industry.” ITMA is the headline sponsor of the awards, which are also supported by Archroma,

latigiD

elitxet

3102 Cordura, Oerlikon and Lauffenmühle.

Digital textile

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Digital Issue 6: 2013

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Launched in 2004, Digital Textile is the world’s first magazine dedicated to textile applications in digital inkjet printing and covers all key markets,

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including fashion & home, flags & banners, T-shirts and carpets.

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It’s easy to make sure you never miss an issue. Call now on +44 (0)113 388 4882 or email Maggie Sadowska at msadowska@wtin.com Digital Textile is available in printed and digital format and is published 6 times a year. ISSUE 7 2014

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<Conference Report> Dornbirn

Innovative and Sustainable Finishing at Dornbirn 2014 With 700 participants from 31 countries, the 53rd Dornbirn Man-Made Fibers Congress covered an extensive range of research and new technologies. Here, Lado Benisek selects several that will be of interest to textile finishers.

FR for Synthetics and Regenerated Cellulosics 26

Sabyasachi Gaan, EMPA, Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology, St Gallen, Switerland, summarised developments in FR additives for PA6 and polyester. DOPO (9,10-dihydro-9-oxa-phosphaphenanthrene10-oxide) based flame retardants, suitable for incorporation in the PA6 matrix via melt processing, were being researched. These were predominantly gas-phase active, could act as plasticisers and be effective at 1.2% of phosphorus on the weight of fibre. For polyester, there were hybrid flame retardants, active in both condensed and gas phase for enhanced FR effect, with high phosphorus content and high melting point, but lower than the polymer matrix for good processability and dispersion. A high thermal stability (>300˚C) to overcome degradation during processing was also important. Additional information on EMPA FR developments was summarised in International Dyer, No 5, page 30-31 (2014). An interesting approach to the flame-resist treatment of Tencel was presented by Dr Clemens Bisjak, Lenzing, Austria. Kaolin was chosen as a spinning-dope FR additive for Tencel. Kaolin (Al2[(OH)4|Si2O5]) is a natural white, non-abrasive mineral, and also a sustainable inorganic compound, free of halogens, phosphorus and boron. Tencel R100 is used as a flame barrier to protect mattresses from fire, to comply with US Mattress Standard 16 CFR 1633. On exposure to flame/heat the kaolin in Tencel

Mr Friedrch Weninger, president of the Austrian ManMade Fibers Institute

R100 migrates to the fibre surface and produces a stable charred layer that acts as a flame barrier with adequate mechanical properties that is impermeable to heat and hot gases in order to prevent the internal material(s) of the mattress from igniting. Danufil BF a FR viscose fibre modified with 30% of silica was re-introduced by Kelheim Fibres, Kelheim, Germany, after the original manufacturer in Finland stopped production of this fibre. The silica barrier formed on exposure to flames is suitable to meet the US Federal Mattress flammability standard 16 CFR Part 1633. Another new FR fibre is Viscont FR, a permanently FR cellulosic multifilament yarn, manufactured by Glanzstoff, St Pölten, Austria. Martin Webster emphasised that this FR multifilament could be combined with Spandex, at less than 10%, resulting in FR stretch fabrics that comply with the vertical flame test requirements of ISO 15025.

Frederick Van Houte, director general at CIRFS

Multi-Purpose Finishing Textile finishing is often confronted with the task of applying multi-purpose finishes from one bath, which makes it difficult to prepare an effective and stable treatment bath. Yvette Dietzel, Saxony Textile Institute, Germany, and Dr Sabine AmbergSchwab, Fraunhofer Institute for Silicate Research, Würzburg, Germany, addressed this problem in their presentation by describing the development of innovative multifunctional coatings based on water-based nano-scale inorganic-organic functional layers (Ormocer) for the finishing of fabrics. Such nanotechnological synthesis permitted the achievement of washable multi-purpose properties, such as water/oil repellency, flameresistance, antistatic and/or antimicrobial effects. Ormocer hybrid polymers were based on functional groups linked to an inorganic silica network with heteroatoms, such as aluminium, titanium, zirconium, etc, that were all cross-linked. These INTERNATIONAL DYER

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coatings, with very good adhesion, were elastic and abrasion resistant, using low processing temperatures and thermal curing. These innovative coatings were evaluated on polyester and cotton/polyester 60/40 fabrics. After plasma or corona pretreatment, the Ormocer coatings were applied by the pad-dry technique. Very good antimicrobial effects were achieved in the agar diffusion plate test (DIN EN ISO 20645 on both fabrics with Ormotex 106). The hydrophobic properties were confirmed in the TEGEWA drop test. Addition of an oil-repellent to Ormotex 106 resulted in oil rating of 5-6 according to DIN EN ISO14419 test. A good antistatic effect was achieved with the Ormocer system on the polyester fabric, when surface resistance was reduced by three orders of magnitude.

Uniform Nanoscale Coating Toray’s Nanomatrix nanoscale finishing technology forms a nano-scale coating on the fibre surface. The continuous membrane of functional material on each filament has a thickness of 10-30 nm, offering high durability, soft handle and multifunctionality. Fibres are uniformly coated, in contrast to conventional coating, which results in uneven coating and thus in less-effective treatment. Effective soil-release, antistatic, water- and oil- repellent properties can be achieved with Nanomatrix, according to Keiji Takeda, Toray Industries, Otsu, Japan.

Hydrophilic to Hydrophobic Hydrophobins are highly stable nanoscale amphiphilic proteins, containing a hydrophobic and hydrophilic part. When hydrophobins are applied as finishing agents, the hydrophilic side of this protein will be oriented to the surface of textile substrates (eg. cotton). However, with hydrophobic

textiles (eg polyester and other synthetic fibres) it is the hydrophobic side of the hydrophobin that will be oriented towards the surface of the textile. By the deposition of hydrophobins in mono-layers, the substrate properties can be switched. The hydrophilic properties of cotton or other cellulosic fibres can be significantly decreased by hydrophobin application, while hydrophobic polyester fabrics can achieve hydrophilic properties. Antistatic properties can also be applied on fabrics in this way, according to Professor Dr Boris Mahltig, High School Niederrhein, Mönchengladbach, Germany.

Precious Metal Recovery Metal industries often use precious metals to create special effects and the residual waters can contain low residual concentrations of these metals, eg. palladium (Pd), silver (Ag), gold (Au), platinum (Pt), copper (Cu), etc. Dr Klaus Opwis, Textile Research Center North-west, Krefeld, Germany, described a new treatment of textiles to obtain filter materials for the recovery of precious metals from industrial wastewaters. A nonwoven was treated with 5-15% of polyvinylamine, Lupamin BASF, by the pad-drycure technique. This treated substrate was used as a filter for the residual industrial waters containing Pd from a manufacturer of circuit boards in an industrial evaluation (patent pending). An almost-complete removal of Pd, despite the presence of interfering calcium and magnesium residues, was achieved. The cost of 1g of Pd was €17.75, while the recovery cost of Pd was 40% of this value, making the process price competitive, whereas electrochemical recycling was not profitable. This treatment was also suitable for Pt and Cu.

Lightweight Body Armour Protective clothing for law-enforcement personnel,

offering protection against bullets, knives and other weapons, is usually made of special fibres (Kevlar, Twaron, Dyneema, Zylon, etc) and with constructions that often result in heavy and stiff protective clothing. Marolda Brouta-Agnésa, Leitat Technological Centre, Terrassa, Catalonia, presented an outline of a research project for a treatment of protective-clothing fabrics that would allow lower fabric weights and more-flexible protective clothing, to enhance wearer comfort and performance-toweight ratio. Shear-thickening fluids based on dense colloidal dispersions of solid particles (silica, calcium carbonate, kaolin, polystyrene, etc) of different materials in a liquid carrier, which changes viscosity from a liquid range to a solid-like range, were to be will be evaluated in this 42-month project, with 10 research centres, supported by the EU’s Seventh Framework Programme (FP7).

Nanomaterial Safety Ms Brouta-Agnésa also introduced another research project, aimed at improving risk assessment and promoting the safe use of nanomaterials in the textile-finishing industry. In this 3-year project, with other four partners, efforts were to be initially targeted towards antibacterial, UV-protection, flame-resistant and soil-release finishes, including a comparison between conventional and nano-based textile processes. • The next Dornbirn Conference is scheduled for 16-18 September 2015 with the following themes: – Fibre innovations; Functionalisation of fibres; Urban and environmental fibre issues; Advanced fibre and processing technology; and Key industries and new market potential.

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<Technical Briefing> Screenprinting

Changing the Rules of the Game PVC-Free Plastisol Inks Now Available for Screenprinting Textiles Achieving a balance between technical performance, and health, safety and environmental concerns is a continuing challenge for ink makers. Dr Daniele Uboldi, Research & Development Manager, and Flavio Ronchini, Technical Marketing Manager, examine the different factors involved and explain Kiian Specialty Inks’ solution

Traditional plastisol inks (containing PVC) have been the inks of choice for screenprinting on pre-cut textile applications for decades. The major advantages of plastisol inks are their ease-of-use for textile printers and high productivity rates, combined with good colour opacity and attractive pricing. Previous environmental concerns about the presence of heavy metals and phthalates in these inks have been overcome through their substitution with other pigments and non-toxic plasticisers. What remains is the growing concern about polyvinyl chloride (PVC), the base resin of all conventional plastisol inks, especially when in direct contact with infants. Pressure from textile brand-owners, retailers and NGOs to remove PVC from textile products has, therefore, been increasing. In most cases, water-based inks have been the preferred option when choosing environmentally friendly inks. The major technical benefit of water-based inks is the property of penetrating the fabric, imparting a soft touch to the finished product. The advent of high-solid acrylic water- and polyurethane-based systems has led to improvements in printing efficiency. However, both these ink types also have their limitations. Water-based inks tend to dry rapidly on the screens, frequent manual intervention is necessary and, consequently, the productivity rates of these systems are significantly lower. Another limitation is that their performance is strongly influenced by the printing environment – in particular, temperature and humidity levels.

With the rapid increase in the use of synthetic fabrics, particularly for sportswear, but also in fashion clothing, silicon-based inks have found a market, thanks to their excellent elasticity and durability. From an industrial point of view, however, silicon-based inks are not an ideal choice as they are bi-component systems that need to be used within a limited time span (pot life) after mixing and require intermediate curing between colour applications. Productivity rates are therefore low and, combined with their high cost, their overall cost-effectiveness is poor.

Plastisols without PVC? Although the common belief is that plastisol inks are, by definition, based on polyvinyl chloride resin, this is conceptually not quite correct. Plastisols are, in fact, defined as a dispersion of a polymer resin in a plasticiser emulsion, forming a liquid or paste that gels and fuses when heated. The key parameters of textile plastisol inks are: 100% solid systems without either solvents or water, and they form a solid coating after curing for 2-3 minutes at temperatures in the 150 – 170°C range. This has made the invention of PVC-free plastisol inks that combine the performance benefits of conventional plastisols with an ecologically friendly composition the ‘Holy Grail’ for textile-ink manufacturers. Resin manufac-

Above: Flavio Ronchini Left: Dr Daniele Uboldi

turers and ink formulators have been working on this challenge for a number of years, and significant progress has been made, typically based on acrylic resin systems. However, the industrial products that have been introduced to the market have demonstrated significant shortcomings that have resulted in a low market penetration so far. These defects include a lack of stability and reduced shelf life, and the inability to formulate white inks that dry promptly after exposure to rapid IR flash curing.

Achieving the Breakthrough Following a multi-year development programme at Kiian Specialty Inks, it has now finally been possible to formulate and commercially manufacture a PVC-free plastisol ink that has overcome the limits of earlier iterations. FREE INTERNATIONAL DYER

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inks feature a combination of high-quality ingredients, a perfectly balanced formulation and discrete manufacturing process, enabling Kiian Specialty Inks to introduce a complete range of inks which, in terms of quality and process performance, are a true match to the best conventional plastisols on the market. White inks in this range are engineered for IR flash drying, making it possible to print on dark fabrics. All inks show exceptionally good viscosity stability on the screen, typically better than most conventional plastisols. This stability allows the use of fine mesh sizes, resulting in a reduction of initial production-run losses by getting the first print right. The standard colours are outstanding in their wet-on-wet printing characteristics, with up to eight printed layers being feasible without intermediate drying. The shelf life of these inks is similar to traditional plastisols, and as the inks are mono-component, they are easy to handle and without pot-life limitations. Being plastisols, they remain perfectly plastic after hours or days of storage on screen and printers can therefore resume printing without loss of time or materials due to screen cleaning. The inks are wholly compatible with commonly used screen emulsions as well as with screen-cleaning agents. With screenprinting and furnace curing parameters remaining basically the same, the switch from traditional plastisols to the FREE inks is really hassle-free. The durability of this new generation of plastisols conforms to the most stringent requirements in the industry today, withstanding more than five washing cycles at 60°C with intermediate drying. With the right combination of printed layers of ink, it is possible to achieve very good elasticity to avoid cracking and damage on even highly stretchable fabrics. In

extreme cases, like professional clothing, the use of specific additives can help to overcome any durability concerns. These groundbreaking inks are universal in the sense that they can be employed on virtually all types of fabric used today in textile printing, from organic fibres to mixed fabrics and fully synthetic fabrics such as polyester and Lycra. Thanks to the use of a specifically formulated anti-bleeding ink, the risk of colorant sublimation through the ink layer is eliminated. Moreover, their performance is unaffected by different climatic environments, whether hot or cold, dry or humid. The final surface appearance of these PVC-free inks is similar to conventional plastisol inks. There are, however, some advantages due to the inherent characteristics of the resin system used. The feel tends to be softer, the tackiness is lower and the colours are less glossy than conventional plastisol inks.

Benefits beyond Print The ecological and health impact of all chemicals used in the textile industry are a major concern to stakeholders in the industry, and printing inks are no exception. PVC-free plastisol inks fully respond to the demand for green products. The chemical compounds deployed in the formulations present no health or environmental concerns and, as the system is based on 100% solids, there are no VOCs (volatile organic compounds) generated. The high performance and extended screen-life

T-shirt printed with Kiian’s FREE plastisol inks

possible mean that the amount of ink waste for disposal is minimised. The quantity of water and chemicals required for cleaning the screens is also reduced. FREE inks conform to the major international textile norms like Oeko-Tex Standard 100. Their use on organic fibres is certified by GOTS. The inks also pass the stringent specifications from leading industry brand owners like Nike (RSL) and Inditex Group (Clear to Wear). In conclusion, the overall ecological footprint in terms of health concerns related to the composition, waste reduction and reduced energy consumption, is extremely positive. These new PVC-free plastisol inks demonstrate that combining quality and ecology is possible with multiple benefits for textile printers, brand owners, retailers, and consumers. ID

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H&M Sets our Environmental Aims

Water Stewardship H&M took part in the recent World Water Week, participating in panel discussions and organising a live-chat discussing how the fashion industry could ensure a sustainable water future. The live-chat the company arranged in cooperation with Guardian Sustainable Business was entitled ‘How can the

Launch Nordic Selects Nine Pioneers

Material Innovators

Nine innovators were selected to participate in the 2014 Launch Nordic Innovation Challenge, which was celebrated in September in Malmö, Sweden. The competition was aimed at finding innovations with the potential to transform the system of textile, fabric and fibre production to one that has a minimal environmental impact and/or drives social equality. Specifically, the challenge focused on closed-loop solutions, design for disassembly, cleaner manufacturing, green chemistry, sustainable investments and procurement, and end user engagement. Nine innovators were selected to present their ideas at a special forum event and will receive support and guidance on how to best scale up their operations, through the Launch Nordic Accelerator. They were: • Better Cotton Initiative (Switzerland) • Dutch AWEARness (the Netherlands) • Green Leather Crust (Germany) • Monocel (Norway) • Nano-Dye (USA) • Pure Waste (Finland) • RE: Newcell (Sweden) • The Extended Closed Loop (Germany, Student Innovator) • VIGGA.US (Denmark) Launch Nordic is part of the Launch global innovation platform, a strategic partnership between NASA, Nike, The US Agency for International Development (USAID) and the US Department of State. The Nordic arm has received support from Ikea, Novozymes, Kvadrat, 3GF, the Danish

fashion industry act for a sustainable water future?’ and included panellists from WWF, Sustainable Fashion Academy, MADE-BY and CDP Water Program, as well as H&M. H&M has said it would like to become the fashion industry’s leading water steward. The company’s global water strategy, developed side-by-side with conser-

Ministry of the Environment & The Fund for Green Business Development, the City of Copenhagen and Vinnova.

Eco-Friendly Fabrics ‘Made in Italy’

Closed Loop Supply Re.VerSo, a new textile platform made of a group of three Italian mills – Nuova Fratelli Boretti, Green Line and Lanificio Stelloni – presented its system for a fully integrated and sustainable supply chain at the recent Première Vision in Paris, with a collection of 100% ‘Made in Italy’ fabrics. The Re.VerSo programme offers a fully traceable, transparent production line, going from pre-consumer textile selected waste, such as wool, to fabrics and garments, with the three mills adding complementary skills to the production process. Green Line is responsible for the sourcing and sorting of all the pre-consumer waste yarn and fabrics from sources all over Italy and selected European countries. Nuova Fratelli Boretti then offers handmade selection and mechanical transformation of a mixed pre-consumer textile material into a high quality, wool-centric yarn. Finally, Lanificio Stelloni creates knitted and woven fabrics for the fashion market. Re.VerSo has been designed as an ‘open door’ platform, welcoming input from all manufacturers to process their surplus waste through its system, even encouraging them to use their own selected mills to finalise fabrics. Two other participants worked with Re.VerSo on the two-year development of the concept and processes. They were

vation organisation WWF, incorporates the corporate approach to water according to WWF, as it takes the whole supply chain into account and goes far beyond the factory lines, the company said. H&M explained it does this to protect the environment, minimise risks in its operations and to secure the availability of water.

Gucci and the sustainability initiative Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy (CLASS). The manufacturers collaborated on a Re.VerSo Cachemire product for the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2015/16 men’s, women’s and children’s collections.

Six Italian Suppliers Announce Participation

Detox Commitment Marking the end of Milan Fashion Week, six of Italy’s biggest textile and component suppliers made landmark Detox commitments to eliminate hazardous chemicals, as part of the global Greenpeace initiative. The suppliers Miroglio, Berbrand, Attilio Imperiali, Italdenim, Besani and Zip produce textile materials and accessories for a number of global brands from the luxury and fashion sectors. The six companies have committed to eliminating all hazardous chemicals from their supply chains and products by 2020. Revealing their progress to date, the companies have already phased out eight of the eleven priority groups of hazardous substances identified by Greenpeace. Chiara Campione, TheFashionDuel project leader for Greenpeace Italy said: “These ground-breaking commitments are proof that beautiful, toxic-free fashion is becoming the industry norm. With these textile suppliers now leading the sector, brands can no longer argue that Detox is not possible. The door is now open for other brands to follow suit,” Greenpeace Italy estimates that in 2013 INTERNATIONAL DYER

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alone, these six companies produced around 40 million linear metres of printed textile material. It is estimated that their commitment could impact upon the production of around 70 million garments a year. Giuseppe Miroglio, president of the Miroglio Group, said: “For some years the Miroglio Group has been investing in new, sustainable printing technologies with a low environmental impact and has remarkably reduced water consumption, energy use and CO2 emissions in the supply chain. Having already taken steps in this direction, we are willing to pursue this vision in the future with responsibility.” Ms Campione added: “Detox is becoming a must-have trend, supported by forward thinking brands, suppliers and millions of fashion lovers around the world. While the market moves towards a toxic-free future, the laggards are becoming increasingly unfashionable.”

European Textile Industry ‘Can Do Better’

Energy Targets

Energy savings of up to 30% are possible if clothing and textile producers apply a ‘simple’ system of cost assessment, a Brussels conference of industry experts was told. The meeting was sponsored by the SESEC project (Sustainable Saving for the European Clothing Industry) and European clothing and textile industry association Euratex as part of their Energy Made-to Measure campaign, which has developed a series of energy audits with small and medium-sized companies in mind. Francesco Marchi, Euratex director general, told the delegates the campaign already had the support of some 50 companies across the continent. “We have reached the point where energy efficiency

is being recognised as a major energy resource in the EU,” he said. “But the name of the game is to create better tools based on the industries’ best practices.” SESEC’s Energy Savings Scheme (ESS), aimed at clothing manufacturers, promotes the use of best practice and has project partners in Portugal, Germany, Italy, Romania, Belgium and Bulgaria. The project plans to involve more than 150 companies in testing and using the ESS to improve their energy efficiency. Bertram Rollman, CEO of PirinTex, a suit manufacturer in Bulgaria, claimed many companies lacked detailed monitoring of their energy costs and were vague about how much they were losing by not keeping a tighter grip on things. “Turn off the warehouse lights!” he exhorted, claiming that simple energy-saving measures at his own company, with 3,200 workers, had saved more than ¤230,000 last year.

Oeko-Tex Launches New Certification

Made in Green

The Oeko-Tex Association has launched the ‘Made in Green by Oeko-Tex’ label as a new level of certification for textiles that are proven to be both safe in terms of human ecology and produced in a sustainable and socially responsible manner. The label replaces Oeko-Tex Standard 100plus and the Spanish mark ‘Made in Green by Aitex’. The latter is already used by several companies, of which Mango is the best-known fashion brand. Having taken over the name rights, Oeko-Tex says that it and its 16 member institutes are, from now, the exclusive issuers of the new ‘Made in Green’ label. “As a logical enhancement of our product portfolio, the ‘Made in Green by Oeko-Tex’ label offers companies in the textile industry the perfect tool for communicating to the consumer their commitment to sustainability directly on the product, “ says Oeko-Tex general secretary Dr Jean-Pierre Haug. “ With the ‘STeP by Oeko-Tex‘ certification, brand suppliers,

31 manufacturers and retailers have, since last year, been able to have their production plants assessed, analysed and audited by the Oeko-Tex institutes with regard to sustainable production conditions. “As a logical enhancement to this, Oeko-Tex recently also developed the MySTeP database, which enables the central administration of existing Oeko-Tex certificates and optimum management of the complete supply chain with regard to sustainable key performance indicators (KPIs). “With the established Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and the latest range of Oeko-Tex services, the textile and clothing industry now has at its disposal a complete up-to-date package which can specifically support companies on their path to improved product safety and sustainability. “The basic difference and added value when compared with its predecessors”, explained Dr Haug, “is in the transparency of the new ‘Made in Green by Oeko-Tex’ label for the consumers. Using the given test number and a QR code, the textiles and the manufacturing process can be uniquely tracked. Other prerequisites apply for the allocation of the ‘Made in Green by Oeko-Tex’ label than for the ‘Oeko-Tex Standard 100plus’ and ‘Made in Green by Aitex’. “We understand that not all companies can meet the requirements for the new product certification ‘Made in Green by Oeko-Tex’ straight away. In spite of this, the Oeko-Tex Association cannot relax the defined requirements under any circumstances. However, we offer all companies the best possible support in the implementation of the necessary prerequisites,” says Dr Haug.

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<Profile> Africa

Chinese Investment Exploits Africa’s Market Access Textile Finishing Expansion Will Build on Clothing Sector Initiatives By Matthew Newsome, in Addis Ababa; Hanna Lange-Chenier, in Kigali; Bertha M. Rinjeu, in Nairobi; Tricia Oben, in Douala; and Keith Nuthall CHINESE INVESTMENT IN sub-Saharan Africa’s textile processing sector is creating new capacity for finishing, but progress is uneven. Whilst China’s growing presence in the region is far from universally popular, industry figures consulted by International Dyer across the continent were generally positive about the trend. The Horn of Africa’s Ethiopia is a case in point. Here, on one of Africa’s growth nodes for the textile sector, Chinese companies are establishing textile-finishing capacity, to take advantage of USA’s African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) duty-free rights for foreign companies based in Africa. “The tariff incentive and other treaties make things work for Ethiopia,” said Helen Hai, a Chinese industrialisation advisor to Ethiopia Prime Minister Hailemariam Desalegn. She established her reputation after working to establish China’s Huajian shoemaker as a manufacturer in Addis Ababa in 2012. “Garment manufacturers in China are obliged to pay 10% to 17% in import duties when they export to the US and Europe,” Ms Hai said. “But export tariffs to those countries is zero from Ethiopia.” Meanwhile, Chinese textile company, Zhejiang Jinda Flax Llc, a subsidiary of Kingdom Holdings Limited, signed an investment agreement with the Ethiopian government in July (2014) to build a textile industrial zone on the edge of the country’s capital – Addis Ababa – which is expected to include finishing facilities. The Chinese company, which is listed on the Hong Kong stock exchange, says it is planning to plough US$200 million into the project over the next six years, building a world-class linen-yarn manufacturing centre with an annual production

Africa has a rich tradition of dyeing, which could be developed by foreign investment – but will China deliver? Picture, Alexander Sarlay

capacity of 20,000 tonnes of linen yarn. In another investment, the Kingdom Linen Textile Industrial Zone also holds potential for generating a textile-finishing and dyeing industry in Ethiopia, said Ms Hai: “The project could provide many potential textile finishing opportunities in the coming few years.” The new textile zone, which could employ 5,000 people, will mainly produce furnishing fabrics such as plain weaves, jacquards and calico prints for sofas, curtains and bedding.

Thanks to AGOA, current Ethiopian textile and apparel exports to US significantly outweigh US imports and totalled just over US$10 million in 2011, nearly US$11.5 million in 2012 and more than US$12.5 million in 2013, according to the US Department of Commerce. Textile finishing in Ethiopia is growing with the larger textile-production sector. This is down to increased international attention attracting manufacturers of accessories and dyestuffs to set up in Ethiopia, said Fassil Tadese, chief executive

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<Profile> Africa

of Ethiopia’s MAA Garment and Textiles Factory. And this, Mr Tadese noted, is improving the local supply chain and access to materials. That the influx of Chinese and other foreign companies might squeeze out local manufacturers is not a concern, according to Mr Tadese. “Competition spurs efficiency and technological upgrades,” he said. “Hence we welcome investments from all over the world.” Ethiopia’s textile-finishing industry also benefits from political stability and security, low energy costs, mid-range infrastructure, cheap labour and government support. In neighbouring Kenya, east Africa’s economic hub, Chinese textile investors are also active. Speaking to International Dyer, Jonathan Chifallu, public relations officer for Kenya’s Export Processing Zones Authority (EPZA), said China’s rising costs were encouraging Chinese firms to shift to cheaper regions such as sub-Saharan Africa: “It is becoming expensive. China has a changing population – these young kids don’t want to sit in factories like their parents,” Mr Chifallu said. Kenya’s export processing zones (EPZ) are particularly attractive: “A couple have set up shop in EPZ Mombasa; one is even operating in the entire value chain from cotton ginning and spinning fabric to making towels, which it exports,” Mr Chifallu added. This has raised concerns, he said, because AGOA allows Kenya to receive third-party fabric that is already dyed, starched, waterproofed and otherwise finished, for cutting and stitching into garments and labelling. And this has depressed Kenya’s struggling locally owned cotton, textile and apparel sector, which the Kenyan government

wants to see flourish. As a result, there has been a positive reaction to the news that, in June, executives from Hong Kong’s Li & Fung Ltd, the leading apparel-andtextile global supply-chain manager, visited Kenya and met with industrialisation minister Adan Mohamed, who reiterated the Kenyan government’s commitment to revive the entire cotton value chain. The government of Kenya hopes to build a textile city in Athi River town, near Nairobi, through leasing out land to investors in textiles and apparel, to develop industrial plants for cotton ginning, yarn spinning, production of fabrics and home textiles, and garment and apparel label manufacturing. The goal here is to create 200,000 new jobs, directly and indirectly. Kenya government officials noted that the entry of major players such as Li & Fung, with its worldwide distribution, could give a major boost to Kenya’s textile sector. The government has claimed that, in 2013, garments produced through the Mombasa EPZ earned Kenya more than US$340 million in export receipts. Further south still, China’s Dahong Textile is building a ginnery and spinning mill in Tanzania’s Shinyanga province, located at the China-Tanzania Modern Agricultural Industrial Park. The company wants to capitalise on low Tanzanian cotton prices and wage costs, and has promised to boost the quality of local cotton production. There has also been Chinese investment in Rwanda. The Chinese-owned C&H Garments Company was scheduled to hire its first 200 Rwandan workers in September, to start setting up a garment-manufacturing plant.

The Rwandan government recently inked a cooperation deal with the company, which plans to inject US$10 million over the next five years into a factory that will produce clothing for US and Europe buyers. The goal here too is to leverage upstream finishing development as well. “For the moment, C&H will start with importing fabrics, especially from China,” said Eusebe Muhikira, head of trade and manufacturing at the Rwanda Development Board. “When local producers meet quality requirements, they can be sourced locally or from the east Africa region,” he said. Indeed, C&H says it expects to work alongside Utexirwa, Rwanda’s only fabric manufacturer. Its reports note that the company currently imports many raw materials, including cottons, dyes and chemicals, to produce one million kilograms of cotton and polyester-cotton yarn per year in addition to some finished garments. “[C&H] have had a conversation with Utexirwa about buying some of their materials, but nothing has been finalised yet,” said Anne Rwigara, the board secretary for the Rwanda Association of Manufacturers. “But the plan was for them to work together.” “If both companies can reach an agreement, between a supplier and a buyer, it will develop a win-win value chain in Rwanda,” added Mr Muhikira. “This is a good opportunity for Utexrwa.” Because of rising oil prices, steam-generating costs for textile finishing have grown, cutting profits. Utexirwa plans a waste power plant, burning coffee husks and other agricultural waste to offset the cost of running machines with imported oil. The new factory will be located in Kigali’s

A small-capacity dyeing machine for samples. Picture courtesy of Ayka Addis Textile & Investment Group PLC

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Special Economic Zone, which enjoys low tax and duty privileges. “It’s bringing in competition, and the more the competition, the better the quality of the products,” said Ms Rwigara. The Rwanda Development Board estimates that overall Chinese investment in the country, up to and including 2013, had amounted to US$4.5 million. By contrast, in West Africa’s Cameroon, Chinese firms have yet to secure a formal foothold in the country’s textile finishing sector, which remains dominated by the governmentowned textile processing company La Cotonnière Industrielle du Cameroun (CICAM). In 2009 the National Investment Corporation of Cameroon (Société Nationale d’Investissement - SNI) bought a controlling interest in CICAM shares from previous Alsace-based owners, Dollfus-Mieg & Compagnie. CICAM officials told International Dyer that the foreign presence in Cameroon’s textilefinishing sector is currently very insignificant. One official, speaking on condition of anonymity, said: “There are no other companies, whether national or international, that have any real share of this market.” As for Chinese companies – he said there were some “still trying to get into the sector but we are still watching,” adding that some Chinese investment and influence was being introduced into the sector informally: “Presently their outfits are clandestine.” Chinese investment is also becoming increasingly apparent in southern Africa, where downstream clothing manufacturing predominates. A June report from the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace noted that “numerous small and medium-sized Chinese investors” have set up cut-make-trim (CMT) or cut-make-pack factories, “as they require very little capital”. It noted: “One CMT production line cost only 200,000 rand (US$20,000) in South Africa in 2012.” It said Chinese investment had been concentrated around Newcastle, in inland KwaZuluNatal province. It added: “Lesotho and Swaziland have apparel-making clusters that consist of predominantly foreign investors. Botswana also has several small apparel industrial areas in Gaborone and Francistown, which host a few investors from China, India, and Mauritius.” The report noted that two Chinese textile companies had planned to establish textile industrial zones in South Africa and Botswana, hosting integrated fabric makers and apparel manufacturers. But “projects are stalled, partly because the host governments did not provide sufficient land and incentives and partly because the developers encountered operational difficulties in China.” ID

An Ethiopian worker at tends a dyeing machine. Picture courtesy of Ayka Addis Textile & Investment Group PLC

Two Ethiopian workers check fabric after drying and compacting. Picture courtesy of Ayka Addis Textile & Investment Group PLC

Colour fixation occurring after printing. Picture courtesy of Ayka Addis Textile & Investment Group PLC

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<Technical Briefing> Coating

New Piezoneedle System Offers HighSpeed Digital Coating Alchemie Technology Ltd, the Cambridge, UK, company created by digital printing pioneer Dr Alan Hudd after his departure from Xennia Technology, has unveiled a new inkjet coating system designed to functionalise fabrics through chemical application. Launched at September’s IMI Ink Jet Technology Showcase in Charlotte, North Carolina, USA, the Jetronica FabriCoater is a novel deposition technology, said to combine the benefits of digital production with the throughput and materials flexibility of established analogue industrial production processes. It is to be offered to machinery integrators under a licensing programme. Alchemie says the system is specified for coating, adhesive, textile and additivemanufacturing applications requiring high volume with consistent coverage. It provides a ‘unique’ platform for delivery of materials patterning at production line

Alchemie FabriCoater evaluation rig

speeds – that is, the coating can be laid down in a precise, pre-defined pattern rather than a complete blanket layer. Dr Hudd said: “Jetronica FabriCoater technology seeks to take digital productivity to new performance levels in application areas not previously addressable through a traditional digital process. The benefits of digital manufacturing are now well understood within industrial production. However, many processes have struggled to benefit from these advantages due to limitations, primarily materials throughput, coverage and high cost. “Enabling high speed deposition at industrial resolution with a broad viscosity range more commonly associated with analogue fluids, Jetronica takes digital into the next dimension for many coating and dispensing applications.” Designed to be scalable and robust, Jetronica’s technology can dispense a wide range of UV-curable, aqueous, solvent and

Alchemie Dr Alan Hudd

oil based fluids. The company’s patented technology is based on a unique piezoneedle array, which delivers a precisely defined fluid with digital control. The actuation of the piezoneedle generates a standing wave that ejects the fluid droplets from the nozzle. This has been identified by Dr John Provost, technical editor of Digital Textile, ID’s sister publication, as similar to the FlatJet technology, used in a textile printer by Zimmer Austria and exhibited at ITMA 2003. Claimed to offer maximum flexibility at much lower costs than other digital technologies, Alchemie’s piezoneedle arrays can be engineered in a wide range of configurations for industrial use and can be tuned to accept a broad range of fluids, including high-viscosity and non-newtonian materials. The company says simplicity of design allows the technology to be easily be scaled for wider print widths or higher flow rates.

Alchemie Jetronica

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The Jetronica technology is said to be uniquely targeted at applications that fall outside the graphics specification determined by many or today’s existing digital technologies, which are based on high resolution and small drop sizes. Jetronica seeks to take digital productivity into new application areas where the key requirement is high-speed, reliable coverage at ‘tuneable’ thicknesses, comparable to the film thickness typically associated with analogue processes. The throughput of the device is greater than 1m/second, dependent on the needlearray diameter and configuration. Coating thicknesses range from less than a micron to 50 microns, using fluids of viscosity from 2cps to around 500cps. These can include dispersions with particle sizes from less than a micron to over 20um. Drop volume can be in the range from picolitres per second, up to microlitres per second. The piezoneedle technology can also jet fluids that require heating. Alchemie sales and marketing director Hannah O’Brien said: “Jetronica’s FabriCoater technology is available for users and OEM’s

Piezoneedle print head

looking to implement high-volume digital deposition in production-line environments. It can also be used for dispensing specialised high-value functional fluids, ranging from niche bio through to technical-textiles materials.” Dr Alan Hudd was a founder of Xennia Technology and managing director from 1996 to 2012, leaving the post around two

years after Xennia was acquired by Dutch technical-textile giant Royal Ten Cate. He founded Alchemie Technology Ltd as an independent contract development and consultancy company to the industrial inkjet industry. He is also director of Inkjet Partnership, a specialised company involved in inkjet conferences and training. ID

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Twin Targets at Knitwear Finishing Nerve Centre

By Adrian Wilson At first glance, the two production-scale finishing lines at the €3 million Monforts Advanced Technology Centre (ATC), which has just been completed at the company’s head office in Mönchengladbach, Germany look very similar, yet they’re designed with very different markets in mind. And at the same time, they represent engineering capabilities that are now solidly in place on two continents – the first line for treating knitted fabrics having been built at the Monforts plant in Zongshan, China, and the second line for treating technical textiles at the St Stephan facility in Austria. “The ATC allows customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics on Monforts dyeing and finishing machines under fully confidential, real production conditions,” says vice-president of marketing Klaus Heinrichs. “Using the results from these trials, we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes. As a global company, Mönchengladbach remains the nerve-centre for what it’s possible to achieve with advanced finishing techniques.” The ATC also houses a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of woven fabrics, including the Econtrol process, consisting of a padder, infrared pre-dryer, hotflue chamber, cooling zone and winder. A steam generator for the Econtrol dyeing processes is installed, along with utilities such as the expansive colour kitchen and extensive fabric laboratory testing equipment. The Chinese-built Monfongs finishing line at the ATC is based around a Montex 6500 stenter with vertical chain return and is designed for state-of-the art production of conventional knitwear. Knitted fabrics, explains ATC manager Fred Vohsdahl, must never be stretched and need to be treated in a relaxed state. As a consequence, the 2.2 metre wide, four-chamber stenter incorporates a TwinAir nozzle system that ensures the relaxed fabric is kept at a suitable height in between the upper and lower nozzle system, despite ‘bowing’. Exact selvedge control with the minimum pinning in is also extremely important with knitted fabrics. The line is equipped with the company’s Eco Applicator system, which eliminates the need for a

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The Monforts Advanced Technology Centre

conventional wet-on-wet padder, instead employing trough and roller techniques to precisely apply the required amount of liquid/coating to the fabric. This is an extremely flexible unit, allowing coating to be applied on either side of the fabric, or both, and with single or separate finishes. An obvious example would be the application of a soil or water repellent finish on the face fabric and a softener or water absorption finish to the other side of the fabric. “Compared with a padder system, the initial

moisture content of 60% is reduced to 40% using the Eco Applicator, ensuring a reduction in drying times and reduced energy costs,” says Mr Vohsdahl. These are just a couple of the special elements of the line, which has been engineered for complete, fingertip control of all working parameters, he adds. “People often talk of the ‘recipe’ for setting advanced finishing lines, but for me this word doesn’t accurately describe what’s being achieved and is more applicable to the dyehouse. We’re INTERNATIONAL DYER

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talking about setting up and controlling all aspects of the line for maximum efficiency and repeatability.” Jürgen Hanel joined Monforts as the manager of the company’s Technical Textiles business three years ago when the ATC was just at the planning stage. Having previously worked for coatingmachinery specialist Coatema, he had a number of specific ideas for what the second line dedicated to technical textiles within the ATC should be able to offer. Firstly, it had to be capable of processing organic solvents, which can often be volatile. “There was a wariness about organic solvents, but in the end, they’re not as difficult to coat on textile substrates as they are on plastic films where they’re already widely used and they offer a lot of possibilities for companies to explore and develop entirely new products – especially in fields such as medical and filtration,” he says. Nevertheless, they do require a highly-controlled and contained environment and as a consequence, the ATC technical textiles line, which incorporates a Montex 8000 four-chamber, horizontal chain stenter, is fitted with an explosion-proof coating application chamber.

Union’s ATEX directives for working in an explosive atmosphere. A range of sensors linked to alarms operate at various levels within the chamber to ensure the specified temperature range is never exceeded and the ventilation adapts accordingly. The coating heads can be knife or roller for dealing with either water- or solvent-based finishes. Special features on the finishing line relate to a further advanced function – the ability not only to treat materials at temperatures of up to 300°C, but also to be able to treat the top and bottom faces of certain materials at different temperatures within a single pass through the machine. As a consequence, the first two chambers of the stenter are fitted with special, heavy duty TwinAir ventilation motors and separate burners for individual top/bottom temperature. A temperature differential of up to 60°C can be achieved between the upper and lower nozzles within the chamber. “There are a lot of applications where employing two separate temperature treatments is beneficial,” says Mr Hanel, “such as floorcoverings – where the textile face fabric is treated at one temperature and the rubber backing at another – as well as PVC

industry there are hundreds of different applications for organic solvents such as anti-septic treatments which have to be treated very carefully and applied at very specific temperatures in order not to destroy their efficacy.” Other materials, such as PTFE-coated filter materials are also applied and then cured at separate temperatures. Another key feature is the special stretching device, which is capable of pulling ten tons in length and ten tons in width – a huge amount per square metre of fabric and necessary in the production of materials such as woven or 3D knits for high temperature filter media. Three weft straighteners – each with different key strengths – have been installed by Monforts ATC partners Erhardt and Leimer, Mahlo and Pleva. “This line has been engineered to provide the ultimate in precision finishing, in order to achieve the standards required by the medical companies and also the quality standards in place for aerospace and automotive grade materials,” Mr Hanel concludes. “The two lines may look similar but they have entirely different configurations and functions and it certainly wouldn’t have been possible to engineer a hybrid of the two.” ID

Knitting international

Issue 7 2014

Football focus

PageEvery26single component within the chamber has to meet the standards of the European

flooring employing chemical foams or for materials like black-out roller blinds with heavy backings. “And at the same time, in the pharmaceutical

Japanese knit revival

Knitting

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Recognising innovation in the technical textile sector

Awards categories: Best Innovation in: Agrotextiles*, Textiles for building and construction*, Textiles for clothing*, Geotextiles*, Home textiles*, Industrial textiles*, Medical textiles*, Mobile textiles*, Sustainable textiles*, Protective textiles*, Sportswear and outdoor apparel* * Fibre, yarn, fabric or process

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AATCC Releases New Blue Wool Lot THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) has announced the availability of a new lot of L2 lightfastness control fabric. The AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard is one of a group of dyed wool fabrics distributed by AATCC for use in determining the amount of light exposure of specimens during light-fastness testing. AATCC says a small amount of the existing

L2 light-fastness control fabric, referred to as Lot 8, is still available and, effective immediately, there are no limits on its sale. A new lot of L2 light-fastness control fabric, referred to as Lot 9, has now been produced, analysed for colour and fading characteristics, and approved. This will be available for purchase as soon as the supply of Lot 8 is exhausted. AATCC research committee RA50,

Lightfastness and Weathering Test Methods, recently approved revisions to AATCC test methods to clarify the use of L2 light-fastness control fabrics for both 5 AFU and 20 AFU tests. The updated versions of the following AATCC Test Methods are available for purchase from AATCC as downloadable PDFs at www.aatcc.org/products. They will also appear in the 2015 AATCC Technical Manual.

Compact Stenter Attracts Chinese Woollen Mills CHINA’S WOOLLEN INDUSTRY is providing good business for finishing-machine manufacturer Brückner as it reviews the run-up to June’s ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in Shanghai, and its results. Brückner says that in the first half of 2014 alone, it delivered several multi-layer stenters to Chinese customers active in the woollen industry, where this kind of machine was popular because of space limitations. The company’s VNE6 multi-layer stenter is especially designed for woven fabrics made of wool and related fibres and its total of six fabric passages offers high production speeds in the minimum of space. The machine has its entry and exit on the same side, so it can be operated

Brückner booth at ITMA Asia 2014 in Shanghai

by one person since. Depending on the desired production speed, the line can be supplied with two or three zones. Gas, thermal oil or steam can be used as the heating system, while combined heating systems are also possible – such as steam with additional electric heating. Brückner says that, compared to a single-layer stenter with only one fabric passage, the multi-layer stenter, with the same productivity, uses less thermal and electrical energy. The exhaust air of the upper and lower layers can be adjusted optionally via two separate exhaust-air fans and the temperatures can be adjusted individually for each zone, allowing the fabric to be treated and gently for a smooth hand. One customer is Shandong Nanshan

Fabric & Garment Company Ltd, which recently installed a VNE6-type multi-layer stenter. With annual production of about 30 million metres, Nanshan is one of the biggest worsted woollen producers in China and exports around the globe. Another customer is Shandong Jining Ruyi Woolen Textile Co Ltd, which specialises in manufacturing worsted woollen cloths and garments. The Shandong Ruyi Group has more than 20 spinning, weaving and finishing plants and in 2013 realised an annual turnover of more than US$5 billion, with nearly 40,000 employees. The main products of the group are suitings and scarves. In Europe, it is a stakeholder in the Harris Tweed weaver Carloway Mills, in Scotland.

Brückner multi-layer stenter VNE6 at Shandong Ruyi, China

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SGS Inaugurates Cambodia Lab SGS HAS ESTABLISHED a new textile testing laboratory in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, one of the important textile and garment manufacturing sites in the region. The newly-inaugurated laboratory is equipped with the-state-of-the-art facilities to provide physical and restricted substances testing for the entire range of apparel and textile products and restricted substances testing for footwear products, the company explained. SGS hopes its presence in the country will contribute to and strengthen the local apparel industry’s ability to attain a global standard and acceptability. Cambodia remains the hub of

ready-made garment exports to European and US markets. This clearly demonstrates the increasing demand for consumer product testing services in the region. Product safety, quality and compliance requirements of REACH and CPSIA regulations have increased the need for chemical test parameters in the textile supply chain. The new SGS facility is fully equipped to address these restricted substance requirements, as well as sustainability management in the textile and apparel industry. The new capacity and testing capabilities of the SGS Cambodia laboratory will provide

testing services to local textile and garment manufacturers needing to comply with international regulations and requirements. In addition to testing, quality inspection, compliance audits, factory assessment and loading supervision will be provided to the country’s textile industry by SGS Cambodia. The inauguration ceremony was held earlier this month and was attended by over 100 participants. It included cutting the ribbon and laboratory tour. Management representatives from SGS Group and many honourable guests attended, including Mr Oknha Van Sou Ieng, the chairman of Garment Manufacturers Association of Cambodia (GMAC).

Breathability Measurement Methods under Scrutiny 42

BREATHABILITY FOR GARMENTS should ideally be based on data gathered from a skin model measuring technique for more comprehensive and comprehensible results, according to the Hohenstein Institute. The institute has evaluated two types of test methods used by quality control managers to evaluate the water vapour resistance and therefore the breathability of a garment: cup methods and sweating guarded-hotplate methods. The problem lies in the differences between the methods. They differ in the

test procedure, test set-up and conditions in which the test is carried out, as well as in the units used to express the results. It is therefore difficult to compare the test results and they cannot always be reproduced. According to Mrs Off, head of the clothing physiology laboratory at the Hohenstein Institute: “For production control, the cup methods can offer a relatively quick, and above all, cheap solution. However, how the breathability of a textile is perceived when it is worn can only be measured using the skin model.”

If breathability is tested using the resistance to evaporative heat loss (Ret) value found with the skin model, then not only can a quantitative measure of ‘breathability’ be found, but also the wearing experience can be evaluated, Hohenstein explained. According to the institute, the Ret value should be obtainable from the supplier, and can give a useful value to quality assessors in order to engineer improvements, as well as a useful one for a consumer wanting to understand the functionality of a garment.

Test Tightens Up to Beat Afterflame THE AGGRAVATION OF a lingering afterflame has become a thing of the past since the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) revised its standard test method for flame resistance. The D6413/D6413M standard test measures the vertical flame resistance of a textile in response to a standard ignition source, determining afterflame time, afterglow time, and char length. The ASTM has worked in collaboration with SDL Atlas to eliminate the flame, which can linger after the end of the test, potentially affecting the test results.

SDL has improved the automatic gas controller by modifying the distance between the solenoid valve and burner, which allowed the flame to linger past test termination. After the flame timer shuts off the gas supply solenoid, the residue gas inside the connection hose could continue to ignite the burner, which some users worried would affect the test results. Brian Shiels of PBI Performance Products, a global leader in flame-resistant products, is a daily user of the ASTM D6413 test. He said: “The lingering afterflame was always an aggravation for us and our

partners. Depending on the location and the setup of their controls, the afterflame posed questions about the validity of the test. The incorporation of the external solenoid system has eliminated that question.” The revising of the ASTM D6413 was in response to a test update that changed the distance requirements of this test. All new SDL Atlas vertical flammability chambers and Atlas HVUL2 horizontal vertical flame chambers will be modified and existing users can get a solenoid retrofit kit to convert their machine to the new arrangement. INTERNATIONAL DYER

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Menges Expands Roller Size Capacity MENGES ROLLER, MANUFACTURER and maintenance provider for industrial rollers for the nonwovens and manmade fabrics industries, has extended its size capacity and technical capabilities with the purchase of a large new machine. For manufacturers of thin products, such as synthetic fabrics and laminated materials, a roller’s specifications and surface finish are important, potentially having a big impact on a plant’s product output and quality, the company explained. To meet these needs, Menges specialises in extra-large rollers that meet very tight tolerances.

The company’s new machine utilises the latest computer interface and CNC technology to form precision groove patterns on rollcovers made from rubber, silicone, urethane and other synthetic compounds, Menges said. Very precise outside diameter modifications can also be made with this machine, including the formation of parabolic crowns and reverse crowns in increments as small as a thousandth of an inch. Matthew Menges, company president, explained the investment: “We’re seeing industrial fibre and mixed media plants move to wider web widths – which is great – and

now this new machine, with a capacity that extends to 10 metres, allows us to serve those customers with a high degree of accuracy.” This capacity expansion is part of Menges’ rubber division, which offers dozens of rollcover compounds and finishing options: from high-release silicones for corona treaters, to abrasion-resistant urethanes and standard rollcover compounds, such as EPDM, hypalon and nitrile. Menges’ new machine is follows investments the company has made in 2013 to enhance the capacity of its heat transfer roller division.

New touchscreen CNC control panel for large capacity rubber roller machine

Diameter modification underway on silicone covered roller

Pilling Tester Conforms to New ISO Standard THE NEW TWO-CHAMBER Impulse from James Heal is one of several instruments in its range for evaluating pilling. It is designed and built to meet American standard ASTM D3512, SANS 6116, the Japanese JIS L1076 standard, French NFG07-121 and more recent ISO Standard 12945-3, when used with the appropriate liner and impeller, according to the company. The Impulse3 is designed to occupy the least possible bench space and has significantly enhanced air to keep the specimens tumbling during the test, offering an important advantage over other instruments of this type, according to James Heal. The specimens are agitated within the two chambers by a high-speed (1200rpm) impeller and long-life LED technology

illuminates the two chambers with clear Perspex allowing the user to view the sample during testing, it said. This constant calibrated speed of 1200rpm is guaranteed irrespective of variations in the electrical supply voltage and is checked during the regular service and calibration services from the company’s qualified technicians, said James Heal. The impellers, which can be changed as required, enable tests to be carried out in accordance with ISO, ASTM and Japanese standards. The new ISO 12945-3 is based on the French standard NF G 07-121: 1987 and has been adopted by CEN as EN ISO 12945-3, according to James Heal. The controls are said to be intuitive allowing pilling tests to be carried out simply

and quickly. The time selection is easy and the controls also enable the internal light and air to be switched either on or off as required, according to James Heal. There is an adjustable audible alarm to signify the end of the test and a warning will be displayed if the pressure drops below the minimum as specified in the standard. The UniController has a set time function for the running-in before use of the Neoprene Liners as required in the ISO standard and an interlocking door safety switch to assure safe operation, said James Heal. Two dust extraction units at the rear of the instrument collect lint and loose fibre to prevent build-up of excessive lint around the working area, said James Heal.

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Matesa Saves Energy with Brückner Dryer MATESA TEKSTIL IS one of the biggest textile companies in Turkey, working in four production sectors: yarn manufacturing, production of knitted and woven fabrics and manufacturing and finishing of denim. Established in 1989, today the company employs around 2,500 workers. Over the years, Matesa has found an important partner in Brückner, textile machinery manufacturer, due to the quality of its products and the money-saving opportunities they provide. In 2001, Matesa invested in its first Brückner machine – a stenter with six zones – still operating today, 13 years later. Galip Calik, founder and director of Matesa, said: “The concept of the half-zone-wise air circulation convinced us. We found that the temperature distribution across the complete fabric width is absolutely uniform and this is essential for our high-quality products.” Mr Calik explained that over the years, the company invested into many more

Brückner stenters and that last year it put into action a Brückner RX3 relaxation dryer with three fabric passages. The machine’s key attribute for Mr Calik was its ability to help conserve energy. “The reduction of our energy costs is one of the most important measures in our company,” he said. “The pricing pressure in the sales of our products is already today extremely high and the energy costs are increasing. If we want to remain competitive in the future, we have to start at this point and for this Brückner is the optimal partner.” The company can achieve around 20 tonnes of fabric per day and said it sees a 15-30% reduction in its energy consumption with this type of machine. This is achieved through the three-passage drying system, heating and pre-drying the fabric in the first passage with exhaust air from the second and third fabric passages. “This requires no additional thermal energy,” Mr Calik said. “Today we know

that particularly the energy costs are an extremely high portion of the overall production cost and [Brückner’s] dryer concept starts exactly at this point.” Brückner has been manufacturing machinery and line systems for the finishing and coating of textiles, woven technical fabric, nonwovens and other materials for a

Galip Calik, founder and managing director of Matesa

Brückner Ppwer-Relax3 relaxation dryer at Matesa

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Calendar of Events

International

Dyer

Submit your event listing to: The Editor, International Dyer, World Textile Information Network, West One, 114 Wellington Street, Leeds, LS1 1BA Tel: +44 113 388 4882 E-mail: jscrimshaw@wtin.com

2014 October 2014

December 2014

May 2015

4 – 7

FESPA Eurasia, CNR Expo, Istanbul, Turkey.

FESPA Digital Textile Conference, Grand

Contact: FESPA.

Hotel Villa Torretta, Milan.

Tel: +44 1737 240788;

Contact: Michela Marcantonio, FESPA,

Fax: +44 1737 240770;

4 – 7 Techtextil, Messe Frankfurt, Germany. Contact: Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH, Tel: +49 69 75 75 0; Fax: +49 69 75 75 64 33

Tel: +44 1737 228 162;

Website: www.fespa.com

E-mail: michela.marcantonio@fespa.com;

Website: www.fespa.com

7 – 9

C!Print Madrid, Pabellon de Cristal Casa

de Campo, Madrid, Spain.

Exhibition,

Contact: Contact: Aurélie Lamandé, 656

Tel: + 49 69 75 75-67 05;

Group, France.

Fax: + 49 69 75 75-66 09;

Tel: +33 662 694091;

E-mail: Simone.Schneider@messefrankfurt.com;

E-mail: aurelie.lamande@656editions.net;

Website: www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com

Website: www.salon-cprint.es

European Digital Textile Conference –

IndusPRINT 2014 South Asia, JW

Digital Printing for Homes & Interiors,

Messe Frankfurt, Germany.

Marriott, Bangalore, India.

Contact: WTiN,

Contact: Aditi Kotavdekar,

Tel: +44 113 388 4882;

Inkjet Forum India.

Fax: +44 113 388 4844;

Tel: +91 9833801285;

E-mail: info@digitaltextileconference.com;

E-mail: aditi@inkjetforumindia.com;

Website: www.digitaltextileconference.com.

Website: www.inkjetforumindia.com

February 2015

2015 January 2015 14 – 17 Heimtextil, Frankfurt, Germany.

15 – 17 FTT 2014, 6th International Istanbul

Conference on the Future Technical

Textile, InterContinental Hotel, Istanbul,

Contact: Simone Schneider, Messe Frankfurt

4 – 7

Dhaka Int’l Textile and Garment

Machinery Exhibition,

Bangabandhu International Conference

Centre, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Turkey.

Contact: Chan Chao International Co Ltd,

Contact: The University of Bolton,

Tel: +886-2-26596000;

UK. Tel: +44 7951 727876;

Fax: +886-2-26597000;

E-mail: info@technical-textile.com

Email: textile@chanchao.com.tw

Inkjet India 2015 – Digital Textile

Conference, New Delhi, India.

Contact: Aditi Kotavdekar,

Inkjet Forum India.

Tel: +91 9833801285;

22 – 24 SGIA Expo, Las Vegas Convention Center,

Las Vegas, Nevada, USA.

Contact: SGIA,

Tel: +1 703 385 1335;

E-mail: sgia@sgia.org.

E-mail: aditi@inkjetforumindia.com;

Website: www.sgia.org

Website: www.inkjetforumindia

November 2014 19 – 21 FESPA China, Guangzhou Pazhou Poly

March 2015

World Trade Centre, Guangzhou, China.

18 – 20 FESPA Brasil, São Paulo, Brazil.

Contact: FESPA. Tel: +44 1737 240788;

Fax: +44 1737 240770;

Website: www.fespa.com

2 – 4 Techtextil North America, George R. Brown Convention Center, Houston, Texas, USA. Contact: Messe Frankfurt Inc. Website: www.techtextilna.com

November 2015 4 – 6

SGIA Expo, Georgia World Congress Center, Atlanta, Georgia, USA. Contact: SGIA, Tel: +1 703 385 1335; E-mail: sgia@sgia.org. Website: www.sgia.org

12 – 19 ITMA 2015, Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy.

Contact: MP International, Tel: +65 6393 0212; Fax: +65 6296 2670; E-mail: info@itma.com; Website: www.itma.com

World Textile Summit 2015 Milan, Italy. Website: www.worldtextilesummit.com

2016 June 2016 1 – 4

ITM 2016, Istanbul. Contact: Teknik Fairs, Tel: +90 212 876 75 06; Fax : +90 212 876 06 81; E-mail: info@teknikfuarcilik.com; Website: www.itm2016.com.tr

September 2016 13 – 16 SGIA Expo, Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, Nevada, USA. Contact: SGIA, Tel: +1 703 385 1335; E-mail: sgia@sgia.org. Website: www.sgia.org

Contact: FESPA. Tel: +44 1737 240788;

Fax: +44 1737 240770;

2017 October 2017

Website: www.fespa.com

10 – 12 SGIA Expo, Ernest N. Morial Convention

25 – 26 AATCC International Conference, 26

Future Materials Awards,

Hilton DeSoto, Savannah, Georgia, USA.

The Westin Bellevue Dresden, Germany.

Contact: AATCC.

Website: www.futurematerialsawards.com

Website: www.aatcc.org/ic/index.cfm

IBC - Calendar of Events - Issue 7.indd 1

June 2015

Center, New Orleans, USA. Contact: SGIA, Tel: +1 703 385 1335; E-mail: sgia@sgia.org. Website: www.sgia.org

10/10/2014 15:10

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