Branding & design (Fashion Magazine) 2020 01 by NILORN UK

P UBLICATI ON

FROM

N I L ORN

W O RLDW IDE

LATEST COLLECTIONS INSIDE

FASHION FOR GOOD

A PLATFORM FOR SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION

N o.

1/ 2020

COVER PHOTO Photo Olof Händén Styling Chrisna de Bruyn Hair / Make up Shahnaz Wrensch Model Simone - Boss models Model Raphael - Full Circle

Nilorn Worldwide is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands by using branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion and readyto-wear industry. Nilorn Worldwide offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic solutions. Satisﬁed customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore important to establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through ﬁrst-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is one of the leading European players, with turnover of ca 60 M EUR0. The group operates through its own companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Hong Kong, India, China, Bangladesh, Turkey, Pakistan and Italy. In addition, there are partner companies in Switzerland, Tunisia and USA.

www.nilorn.com

CONTENTS

104 4

WELCOME Dear Reader

FASHION WORLD TOKYO Nilorn East Asia

FASHION FOR GOOD A platform for sustainable innovation

NILORN WORLDWIDE NILORN UK, in a brand-new location!

NILORN GROUP ANNUAL SALES CONFERENCE In the Yorkshire countryside

CONTENTS

75 46

PANTONE Summer vibes

20:1 DESIGN COLLECTIONS Product development and fashion shoot

GEORG JENSEN DAMASK It makes a difference

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT Around the world

PANTONE Deep in the ocean

PANTONE Classic Blue Color of the Year 2020

TRENDSPOTTING It´s all about the bag

ROOTS OF A FAMILY BUSINESS Fourth generation

INSPIRATION TRIP Sustainable mindset

CONSCIOUS MIND Great focus on sustainabillity

104

VERSACE Gianni Versace – A Retrospective Exhibition in Borås

88 5

HEADQUARTERS NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com SUBSIDIARIES & PARTNERS NILÖRN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel: +46 33 700 88 00 Fax:+46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24 CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel: +41 62 855 27 50 Fax: +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. Plot 1361, 5th and 6th fl. Avenue 10 Mirpur DOHS Dhaka -1216 BANGLADESH Tel: +88 02 8835912 Fax: +88 02 8835913 info@bd.nilorn.com NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle BELGIUM Tel: +32 9 210 40 90 info@be.nilorn.com NILORN DENMARK A/S Kongensgade 31B 5000 Odense C DENMARK Tel: +45 70 23 16 23 info@dk.nilorn.com NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong Kowloon HONG KONG Tel: +852 2 371 2218 Fax: +852 2 371 2629 info@hk.nilorn.com

NILORN GERMANY GMBH Itterpark 7 40724 Hilden GERMANY Tel:. +49 2103 908 16 - 0 Fax: +49 2103 908 16 - 99 info@de.nilorn.com NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD Plot no. 9c, Sector – 3 Parwanoo – 173220 (HP) INDIA Tel. +91 1792 235232 Fax +91 1792 233176 info@in.nilorn.com NILORN ITALY Via del Bramante 34 41012 Carpi (MO) ITALY Tel: +39 3381611351 info@it.nilorn.com NILORN PAKISTAN (PVT) LTD 2nd Floor, Yasir Chambers Gulshan –E-Iqbal, Block 13A Main University Road P.O. Box 75300 Karachi PAKISTAN Tel: +92 21 349 92151 Fax:+92 21 349 92153 info@pk.nilorn.com NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel: +351 22 411 95 80 Fax: +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com NILORN SHANGHAI LIMITED Rm 605, No.258, Chengjiaqiao Road Minhang District, Shanghai, CHINA Poastal Code 201103 Tel: +86-21 345 512 90 info@sh.nilorn.com

NILORN TURKEY Baģlar Manhallesi 49 Sokak No: 50 K:3 Baģcilar/Istanbul TURKEY Tel: +90 212 657 76 76 (pbx). Fax: +90 212 657 75 10 info@tr.nilorn.com NILORN UK LTD Station Works Greens Mill Court Cononley N Yorks BD20 8FE UNITED KINGDOM Tel: +44 1535 673 500 info@uk.nilorn.com NILORN USA LLC 3499 Meier Street Los Angeles, CA 90066 UNITED STATES Tel: +1 888-315 1875 info@us.nilorn.com

– 2020 –

Dear Reader It is with great pleasure that we hereby release the 1st edition of our Branding & Design magazine for 2020. From a sustainable point of view will we not be printing this edition, but instead releasing it just in a digital format. We have a new decade in front of us and there is never ending development happening within our international operation. In this edition we have focused on a number of interesting areas. We share our experience from the fashion fair in Tokyo that we participated in during the Autumn of 2019. There is also a very fascinating exhibition about Versace at Borås Textilmuseum - which Nilorn is a partner of – it is so compelling to see the wide variety of garments, shoes and accessories designed by Versace himself. We will also tell you about our sales conference in the Yorkshire Dales at Coniston Hotel and present our new building and operation in the UK. There is an interesting article about the successful Belgian company Terre Bleu and we also share some experiences from one of our latest designer inspiration trips to Amsterdam. As always we showcase the latest concept collections which we released at the beginning of the year and we hope to give you some valuable inspiration and ideas to further develop and strengthen your branding - and brand. I wish you pleasant reading. All the best,

Claes af Wetterstedt CEO

Japan is the fourth largest apparel market in

NILORN WORLDWIDE

FASHION WOR L D TOKYO the world and also the trendsetter for other countries in Asia. The capital city Tokyo is one of the most stylish areas in Japan – there are multiple fashion exhibitions throughout the year, lots of flagship stores from the world’s trendiest brands and it’s home to many unique trends and innovations.

Another thing Tokyo does extremely well is the mix of high and low-end fashion. It has a very inspiring fashion environment with offerings in both high-end fashion and affordable, yet exciting, budget alternatives - luxury brands from Paris, Milan and New York, mixed with fast fashion brands such as Uniqlo, Zara and H&M. You’ll find an impeccable range of vintage and consignment stores, alongside well-curated select shops with brands and products not commonly found elsewhere. Tokyo is also home to a select range of A-list Japanese designers who have taken over the international fashion scene – many of them have stores in Tokyo itself. Starting in 2017, Nilorn East Asia targeted this promising market and took the first step by participating in the trade fair of Tokyo Fashion World, one of the largest exhibitions

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in fashion sourcing. Over the 3-day show, Nilorn received many positive responses from the local visitors. We understand that good design and quality in garment trims and packaging is in high demand in the Japanese fashion industry. It was clear to see that this exhibition could enhance our brand position in the Japanese market, maintain our brand exposure, build trust and connect with potential Japanese customers. Therefore, Nilorn continued to exhibit in 2018 and 2019, reaching and expanding our coverage in different customer segments. In fact, the process from being visitors to potential customers is a long, difficult and challenging journey. This is because Nilorn is a foreign company in the Japanese market, they hold their local industry in high regard and are reluctant to open their door to an outsider. Fortunately, our offer in branding and design gained their interest and this is the key to successfully entering the market. In Japan, many fashion brands rely on external design houses as there is a shortage of designers in the trims and packaging area, in their teams. Nilorn can provide a one-stop service from branding and design, through to

production and logistics. This is welcomed by customers as we have a strong creative foundation in labels, packaging and accessories inspired by Scandinavian design. Recognition and appreciation from Japanese customers on our branding and design offer is quite an accomplishment. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had design projects that we worked on with our customers from zero concept to the finished proposal, which were a culmination of numerous meetings and communication between our sales team in Japan and design team in Sweden. The full set of trims and packaging have been launched according to the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style and their philosophy. This is a great opportunity for us as we have seen the success of building trust and connecting with customers, to accomplish our ultimate mission â&#x20AC;&#x201C; adding value to your brand!

ARTICLE

G FASHION FOR D

Photo: Alina Krasieva

BY STEPHANIE DUVAL

From our interview with Belgian climate activist Anuna De Wever in our last issue to a comment

Perquy a few pages further on in this magazine

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made by Duror Fashion Group CEO Peter

– climate change is not just on top of everyone’s minds right now, for Nilorn, sustainability has always been a core value. That’s why last year, part of our team visited the Fashion for Good Experience in Amsterdam: an interactive museum bringing together fashion, innovation and sustainability. Behind the museum is the larger organisation Fashion for Good, which was established in March 2017 guided by co-founder William McDonough’s Cradle-to-Cradle philosophy and supported by founding partner C&A Foundation. Today, the organisation already counts many of the apparel industry’s biggest corporations as its partners – Adidas, Chanel, Kering and Zalando to name but a few – and is committed to continue building a global coalition of brands, producers, retailers, suppliers, non-profit organisations, innovators and funders to accelerate progress in the transition to a circular fashion system. We talked to the organisation’s communications director Anne-Ro Klevant Groen to find out more.

Photo: Presstigieux

ARTICLE Photo: Alina Krasieva

WHY WAS FASHION FOR GOOD FOUNDED? “Today’s fashion industry is caught in a vicious cycle of ‘take-make-waste’ — we buy 60% more clothing than we did 15 years ago yet we keep each item only half as long. Within a year of being produced, an estimated 60% of all clothing finds its way into landfills or ends up being burned. And although the fashion industry has created millions of jobs for women and men around the world, working conditions can be unsafe and wages remain low, barely covering the cost of living. It’s a cycle that is clearly not sustainable and at Fashion for Good, we believe it can be done better.”

THAT SOUNDS GREAT, BUT WHAT EXACTLY IS FASHION FOR GOOD THEN? “It is a global, collaborative innovation platform to tackle the problems faced by the fashion industry. In order to create a truly Good Fashion industry, incremental improvements are not enough — to make the change, disruptive innovation is needed. For true Good Fashion and a circular supply chain, to exist, all elements, from design to end-of-use, must be

reconsidered and for this to happen, and considering the enormity of the challenge, collaboration is required. The good news is we see game changing technologies that can bring real change to the industry, that can offer major leaps forward towards circularity, but are unfortunately not being scaled yet. And we increasingly see large corporations that are committed to becoming more sustainable, have pledged towards circularity and who want to

ARTICLE

Photo: Presstigieux

to the mainstream. These corporates benefit from our innovation scouting and screening capabilities, comprehensive technology landscaping and our hands-on support in piloting and scaling innovations.”

HOW DO YOU DEFINE WHAT IS ‘GOOD FASHION’?

adopt these innovations to achieve their ambitions. It’s our mission to bring together the entire apparel industry — brands, retailers, suppliers, non-profit organisations, innovators, funders and the wider public — to innovate and collaborate for Good Fashion. We work directly alongside the most promising innovators, bringing them together with market players such as brands, retailers and manufacturers, in order to make it easier for them to work together effectively, bridge the innovation gap and bring these innovations

“To facilitate a collaboration of this kind and scale, there needs to be an aligned vision as the starting point for change that every single part of the global fashion supply chain can be inspired by and aspire to. Drawing from the Cradle to CradleTM framework, Good Fashion is not fashion that simply looks good or is mostly good; it is good in five important ways. First of all, it uses ‘Good Materials’ that are safe, healthy and designed for reuse and recycling. It is part of a ‘Good Economy’: growing, circular, shared and benefiting everyone. Good fashion furthermore uses ‘Good Energy’ that is renewable and clean, safeguards ‘Good Water’ that is clean and available to all and advances ‘Good Lives’ by establishing living and working conditions that are just, safe and dignified.”

CAN YOU EXPLAIN HOW FASHION FOR GOOD OPERATES FROM THE INSIDE-OUT?

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“As an Innovation Platform we give promising startups the support they need in order to grow and scale. Through the platform we action introductions with brands and manufacturers, provide access to our mentor and investor network, expertise and to funding. Early stage innovators have the opportunity to test their concepts with our corporate partners, and our Scaling Programme supports market ready innovators who have passed the proof-of-concept phase and are ready to scale their innovations in the supply chain. Connecting these innovators with large, corporate players is a crucial step to driving adoption. By creating a platform that exists in a uniquely precompetitive space (i.e. looking at ways in which brands gain material benefits by working together — like sharing investments to de-risk technological innovation), brands and retailers can learn from each other, sharing experiences with innovation and partnering on pilots.”

FASHION FOR GOOD EXPERIENCE This interactive museum in Amsterdam uses the latest technology to provides visitors with background stories on the clothing industry and show how they can take action in an effort to have a positive impact on the fashion industry. The Innovation Lounge showcases how 50 innovators are about to turn the fashion industry upside down in

INDUSTRY-LED CHANGE IS ONE THING, CHANGING CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR IS ANOTHER. HOW DOES FASHION FOR GOOD ACT ON THIS SECOND FRONT? “We aim to be a convenor for Change by building a Good Fashion Movement to help people understand and reimagine the ways in which they can make a difference through their clothing choices, from before the point of purchase, to garment care and beyond. We believe that the paradigm shift needed within the industry is only possible when individuals and industry

an effort to make the industry more sustainable, and all visitors can collect badges as they move through the museum, which can then be assembled to a Good Fashion Action Plan to inspire to shop differently.

FASHION FOR GOOD BY THE NUMBERS • 13+ Corporate Partners in our innovation network • 70+ Innovators in support Programmes • 750+ sessions with Brand Partners • 40+ Pilots with Innovators • €75m+ in Capital Commitments raised during the Programme

Photo: Alina Krasieva

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alike are activated for change. So, through our building in Amsterdam, we aim to support on all sides. In our co-working space, we host a Circular Apparel Community â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a community of like-minded organisations like the C&A Foundation, the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), Zero Discharge for Hazardous Chemicals Programme (ZDHC), Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and other experts and practitioners brought together under the same roof, to work towards the same mission of making fashion good. Also in the building, you can find our interactive Fashion for Good Experience, a free public-facing museum where we inspire, educate and engage people from across the world. Visitors learn about the past, present and future of the fashion industry and with the digitally enabled Good Fashion Journey and an RFID bracelet, they can discover and commit to ways that they can make a difference. At the end, they take home a personalised Good Fashion Action Plan, a digital guide filled with tips for extending what they learned in the Experience into their daily lives.

Photo: Presstigieux

Photo: Alina Krasieva

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FOLLOW FASHION FOR GOOD Website: www.fashionforgood.com Instagram: @fashionforgood Twitter: @FashionforGood Facebook: FashionForGoodGlobal

Within the museum sits our next-generation retail space, The Good Shop. Built around a thoughtprovoking theme which we change every four months, the Shop features a curated selection of product collections related to the topic at the time. Themes cover issues facing the industry such as the role of water throughout the supply chain, traceability and transparency and dyeing and colouring â&#x20AC;&#x201D; which accounts for 20% of global water pollution. We host workshops, documentary screenings and lectures around each theme to educate, empower and equip visitors to incorporate Good Fashion thinking into their lives and join our global movement.â&#x20AC;?

Nilorn design team visiting FFG

www.cg.fashion

NILORN WORLDWIDE UK

NILORN WORLDWIDE all lights on

NILORN UK IN A BRAND-NEW LOCATION! Nilorn UK has recently undergone a huge changeâ&#x20AC;¦ moving into a purpose-built building in a brand-new location!

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KEY FEATURES 1. High Quality Showers & Washrooms 2. Open-plan Coffee Bar & dining area 3. Catering Standard Kitchen 4. Multiple meeting spaces & breakout areas 5. High speed Wifi and data connections throughout the entire building 6. Amazing location & exceptional transport links

QUICK FACTS 1. Total Sq Feet size - 15,550 sq ft 2. No of Employees â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 36 3. Employee welfare at the centre of every decision made 4. LED motion sensor lighting 5. 100% electricity from renewable sources

YORKSHIRE DALES Situated at the foot of the Yorkshire Dales, the contemporary Swedish-inspired office sits within a mixeduse development that includes a mill renovation and housing complex. The distinctive Cedar wood cladding is designed to age and, combined with the Yorkshire stone brickwork, it gives a Scandinavian feel to the exterior. The coursing of the stone was even specifically matched to the original mill giving a nod to the heritage of the site’s surroundings. Backing onto the railway line, it has great transport links and is just a short journey away from the bustling city of Leeds.

The building houses all elements of Nilorn UK under one roof; from the design department to the sales office, finance and production team - alongside warehousing and despatch. This means the team are able to connect and communicate business wide creating a stronger bond throughout the entire business and across departments. Employee fulfilment and increased efficiency is the theme that runs throughout the building, which is evident in the open plan and flexible office space upstairs. Together with the modern equipped coffee bar and kitchen area, a more communal space is created, encouraging collaboration and teamwork. The large floor to ceiling windows on the upper floor allows employees and visitors alike to enjoy the stunning scenery of the countryside surroundings. Flooding the interior with light, it creates an airy atmosphere promoting focus, to help provide Nilorn’s customers with the best possible service. Downstairs, careful planning was taken with the production and despatch teams, to analyse the stepby-step process from printing through to packing and distribution of products. This ensures the layout helps to

DESIGN, DEVELOPMENT & SUSTAINABILITY From the beginning, the entire development had hands on involvement from the Nilorn UK team. Every detail, big or small, was carefully thought through, from the entrance to the shutter doors, to the brightly coloured kitchen chairs. At the forefront, the company’s future needs, ambitions and aspirations took the lead in decision making, allowing the building to be designed around the specific needs of the business. Sustainability was a key factor in driving some of the design and functionality choices throughout the development. All lighting within the building is LED – an energy efficient alternative and inexpensive to run and is controlled by motion sensors, meaning that lights go off automatically when not required. The building itself is incredibly air-tight, so air leaks are kept to a minimum and a clever climate-control system is used for both heating in the Winter and cooling in the Summer. It is actually as cheap to keep the building cool as it is to heat, meaning costs are more controlled throughout all four seasons. The energy supply is 100% electricity from renewable sources, having taken the decision very early on to have no natural gas supply.

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On entering the building, you are greeted with a double height multi-purpose reception area. It houses a large tv screen and auditorium space, suitable for large scale presentations and company-wide meetings. Throughout the offices, there are a variety of meeting spaces and breakout areas, perfect for getting together with colleagues or meeting with clients.

minimise the time taken for the team to process each stage and improve overall efficiency.

David Hinchliffe, Managing Director of Nilorn UK said, ‘We’ve lived this project for almost 4 years and were able to involve ourselves and affect every single aspect of the new building both inside and out. We were able to make sure it suited our needs perfectly and matched our expectations as much from a functional perspective as well as a design perspective.’ He continued, ‘As I walk around the building now, I can take great pride in seeing that nothing was left to chance, everything was considered (no matter how small) and with input from a great team of people we’ve got something remarkable that we can now call home and can look after for many years to come.’

Nilorn Group Annual Sales Conference IN THE YORKSHIRE COUNTRYSIDE NILORN WORLDWIDE

In Autumn 2019, Nilorn UK showcased their brand-new building to colleagues from around the globe, during the Nilorn Group Annual Sales Conference. Claes af Wetterstedt, CEO of Nilorngruppen, officially opened the new building by cutting a ribbon, which spanned the front entrance and invited colleagues inside. An engraved slate plaque to commemorate the grand opening was then revealed in the reception area, before guests explored the new space. The opportunity to share the opening of the new office with worldwide colleagues was invaluable for the UK team – allowing everyone to feel connected throughout the Nilorn Group and strengthen working relationships. The Annual Sales Conference, hosted this year by Nilorn UK, was held at The Coniston Hotel, North Yorkshire. The conference is a 3-day event where colleagues share presentations,

knowledge and ideas from across the Nilorn Group on areas such as; our focus on sustainability, future business development and recognition of achievements, at every level. A guest speaker is also invited each year to inspire the team on a relevant topic – this year’s guest was Safia Minney (Founder of People Tree, Coach, Speaker & Author) who delivered an engaging presentation on the future of the Fashion Industry in terms of sustainability. The Sales Conference is an important time for colleagues to meet and collaborate faceto-face and it also allows the host country to highlight attractions of the local area. Among other activities, the UK team treated everyone to an enjoyable steam train ride through the Yorkshire countryside and a journey on vintage double-decker buses, highlighting traditional British heritage.

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Our ‘places you must visit’ pages offer an insight into

just a few of the interesting sites, venues and shops we visit around the world that inspire us here at Nilorn.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

GIANNI VERSACE

EATALY

Skaraborgsvägen 3A

Biblioteksgatan 5

Gianni Versace Retrospective The fashion designer Gianni Versace was a true pioneer, and at the end of the twentieth century challenged the fashion industry with his trailblazing designs. Welcome to an emotional journey into Gianni’s world and design philosophy, which still affects the way fashion looks today.

The original idea behind Eataly is very simple: to gather all the high-quality Italian foods under one roof, where you can eat, shop and learn.

You can read more about the exhibition on page 104-109

From the Manifesto of Eataly

TEXTILE FASHION CENTER Skaraborgsvägen 3 A Borås Sweden www.textilmuseet.se

EATALY Biblioteksgatan 5 Stockholm Sweden www.eataly.se

«We love high-quality food and beverage. We love the stories about it, the people who produce it, and the places it comes from»

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

C T Ceintuurbaan 282-284 A former cinema built in the roaring 20s – called Ceintuur Theater – now houses CT Coffee & Coconuts. A funky and fresh place to enjoy the buzzing energy of the city and breathe in the relaxing vibe of, what seems to be, your ultimate holiday break. We’re ready to make your coffee and coco dreams come true.

FASHION FOR GOOD Rokin 102 Fashion for Good an interactive museum bringing together fashion, innovation and sustainability. Behind the museum is the larger organisation Fashion for Good, which was established in March 2017 guided by co-founder William McDonough’s Cradle-to-Cradle. You can read more about the exhibition on page 14-20

CT COFFEE & COCONUTS Ceintuurbaan 282-284, Amsterdam Netherlands www.coffeeandcoconuts.com

FASHION FOR GOOD Rokin 102 Amsterdam Netherlands www.fashionforgood.com

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

PLUK

SNEAKERDISTRICT

Reestraat 19

Kloosterstraat 55

Pluk is for everyone who loves healthy and happy people. With us, you can be yourself.

We would like to welcome you in our store in Antwerp, the second Sneaker District store.

Pluk is located in the 9 streets of Amsterdam. And now, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve brought our piece of happiness to you, online. With the PLUKdreamteam we have created our webshop, so everybody all over the world can buy a piece of PLUK and become a PLUKKER!

The new Antwerp space was designed by Barde + vanVoltt, an interior design studio based in Amsterdam who worked on the signage, interior, exterior, lighting, product display, furniture and storage features of the store.

PLUK Reestraat 19, 1016 DM Amsterdam Netherlands www.pluk-amsterdam.com

SNEAKERDISTRICT Kloosterstraat 55 Antwerp Belgium www.sneakerdistrict.com

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

Spring Summer 2020 Collection boboli.es 33

Color of the Year 2020 Classic Blue PANTONE 19-4052 TPG Lollipop PANTONE 18-1764 TPG

Photo credits: David Clode, Unsplash

INTERVIEW

THE SAVVY OF A SCALE-UP WITH THE ROOTS OF A FAMILY BUSINESS FOURTH GENERATION PETER PERQUY TAKES OVER THE REIGN OF DUROR FASHION GROUP BY STEPHANIE DUVAL

“I AM GRATEFUL FOR THE OPPORTUNITY TO WORK IN A COMPANY THAT HAS ALWAYS HAD SUCH A STRONG VISION FOR THE FUTURE”

CAN YOU BOTH SHED A LIGHT ON HOW THE TRANSITION HAPPENED FROM ONE CEO TO THE OTHER; OF ONE GENERATION TO THE NEXT, FROM BOTH OF YOUR EXPERIENCES?

Duror was founded in 1938 as a textile company, but with each generational transition at the top, it changed with the times. The most recent transformation being the Duror Fashion Group holding three Belgian fashion brands: Terre Bleue, Gigue and Zilton. When asked to describe the company as if it were a person, third generation CEO Dirk Perquy says: “She is a wise, open-minded, resilient woman. Every generation has left its mark on the business but has also stayed true to the values that have been present since the very beginning.” “As the name Duror indicates (it’s derived from “durable comme l’or”, or “durable like gold” in English, ed.) the business was dedicated to quality and durability right from the start. A strong vision has always been ingrained in the company and that has been really helpful to guide us in further developing and evolving the company.” When Peter Perquy became CEO of the Duror Fashion Group in April 2019, he became the fourth generation to lead the family business. Nilorn sat down with Peter and his father, Dirk Perquy, to talk about transition, entrepreneurship, family values and the challenges of today’s consumer industry.

INTERVIEW

Dirk: “The transition of the company from my father to me was arduous, so that taught me to better prepare for the next generational transfer. At the end of the nineties, I set up an advisory board to guide me in that process and they have played an important role. Peter: “For me it’s always been my ambition to get involved in the family business. Even when I was in middle school and people asked me what I wanted to do when I grew up, I told them I wanted to do what my Dad did. When I went to college; when I decided on my first work experience: it was always in the back of mind to prepare for that role. In 2009, with the agreement of the advisory board, I took my first step into the company. I started as a Product Manager to get to know the company from the bottom up. And I have to say in all these years, my ambition has never changed, and it has in fact only grown stronger. Six years ago, I took some time off to pursue an MBA and when I got back, I started working together with my father very closely on everything that had to do with strategy or that had a greater impact on the business. In a way, we organically grew into our current roles, with me gradually taking on more and more responsibilities and my father gradually delegating more to me.”

PETER, IN AN EARLIER INTERVIEW YOU’VE MENTIONED THAT YOU SOMETIMES WISHED THE FAMILY BUSINESS HAD BEEN IN A DIFFERENT INDUSTRY. WHAT IS YOUR TAKE ON THE INDUSTRY THAT YOU’RE IN?

INTERVIEW

Peter: “That quote has been taken out of context, in the sense that I am very happy and grateful to have the opportunity to continue our family business. But it’s true that I am convinced some industries are less impacted by the evolution of society and resulting consumer behaviour. Every single big shift in society has a huge impact on the consumer industry. Take digitization for example, which doesn’t only have to do with e-commerce – though that is an important development as well – but has also changed the way people communicate. And think of the climate movement: five years ago, people weren’t aware of the impact fashion has on the environment, but now awareness is growing exponentially. These are all evolutions that might be less impactful if you are, say, a business that sells machinery to factories, for example. The consumer industry has grown more complicated and demanding and it poses a lot of challenges. But to be clear: I think this makes it a highly interesting environment, and I am convinced we can overcome these challenges.” Dirk: “To me, this is exactly where the art of entrepreneurship lies. Every business, every generation faces new challenges all the time – you just have to look for the opportunities that hide within each of them. It’s a specific mentality that I am proud to say has been passed on to me by my predecessors. When we transformed the company from a wholesale business to a fashion company, we positioned our limitations as advantages. Because we were only able to produce a small first collection, it was much easier for buyers to make a selection, for example. Now, Duror Fashion Group has created the necessary scale to face a new generation of challenges.”

SCALE DOES INDEED SEEM TO BE THE STRATEGY ADOPTED TO FACE THE CHALLENGES OF TODAY’S ECONOMY. CAN YOU ELABORATE ON THAT?

SCALING A COMPANY CAN BE A DEMANDING AND COMPLICATED PROCESS BUT SCALING A FAMILY BUSINESS HAS TO COME WITH ADDITIONAL CHALLENGES. HOW DO YOU FIND THE BALANCE BETWEEN CREATING A THRIVING COMPANY AND PRESERVING THE FAMILYVALUES AND HISTORY? Peter: “It’s something we approach carefully and consciously. Change can have a big impact on a company’s culture: you need to be aware and considerate of this. As the company grew, the changes

INTERVIEW

Peter: “Companies are expected to be able to adapt to fluctuations in the market, but that is only possible if their structure allows it. When a company grows, it becomes too complex to adapt things manually, so you need to automate certain processes. The investments needed for the necessary technology to do that are too heavy to carry as a smaller company. So, you are faced with two options: either you scale by internationalising, but it takes time to become as successful in new markets. Or, you scale by acquisition. This way, when you invest in new software, for example, you are able to write off the investment over different brands. There was a second motivation to scale by acquisition, as in early 2010 we invested heavily in the professionalisation of our management team. We hired higher profiles, so were faced with higher costs and at the same time growth was stalling. Again, there were two options: either we went back on our decision to grow the management team or we started looking for new ways to generate revenue. We really believed in the added value of the management team, so we went with the second option.”

have started becoming more noticeable and it’s been a process to get everyone to accept these changes. But we’ve also considered a few things as non-negotiable – things we would never want to change. And that has allowed us to professionalise the organisation without sacrificing our core values, to grow while remaining respectful of our history and identity as a business.” Dirk: “From the beginning we’ve been very clear: we sit down with these new companies on a basis of mutual respect. It’s not even like we had to explicitly refer to our core values, they are just always automatically present in everything we do, in how we do it.” Peter: “As with any change anywhere, you always have people who agree and people who disagree. Whenever that happened with us, we sat those people around the table together and took some time to reflect on the basic values that are our foundation. The effect has been that these values have gradually become a part of everyone here, so that organically, everyone ended up on the same wavelength. It’s natural for a company’s values to be ingrained in everyone who’s been there for a long time, but for anyone new it’s important to

INTERVIEW

take every opportunity to explicitly name these values and describe the culture. Another thing is, we didn’t just acquire any company. We chose Gigue and Zilton because we thought they would be a valuable addition to our company, both because of what they produce and of how they do business. We couldn’t possibly imagine acquiring a fast fashion company, because not only would the processes be entirely different, but the underlying values wouldn’t match either.”

IN THIS YEAR OF GOING THROUGH CHANGE AND TRANSITION TOGETHER, WHAT ARE YOU BOTH MOST GRATEFUL FOR IN EACH OTHER?

Dirk: “I am most grateful for the fact that my children turned out to be such considerate human beings, who treat each other and myself with such respect. Respect is one of those core values that – both in the family and the family business – have been passed on from one generation to the next and I am happy to see that this is not only the legacy I leave behind, but also the future my children envision.”

BUSINESS PARTNERS IN HEART AND SOUL Father and son Perquy are very careful in their acquisitions to select brands that share the values that have served as a foundation to the company for four generations: respect, honesty and

Peter: “I am grateful for the opportunity to work in a company that has always had such a strong vision for the future, which is part of the reason why this transition has been so smooth. It is a very human company, driven by values, and in that sense, it aligns with the way in which I was raised. Add to that the example of economic realism and management capability that these previous generations have set… I ended up in this nurturing and instructive environment, and I am incredibly aware that this is a privilege.”

durability. Duror Fashion Group is just as mindful when they seek out business partners to collaborate with – and in Nilorn they found a perfect match. Nilorn is committed to growing as a responsible and sustainable business. In other words: working towards meeting the needs of people and society without compromising the needs of future generations – acting in the long-term interests of many people. Just like in a family business, every generation has to look out for the next one and try to leave behind a legacy that can be built upon.

INTERVIEW

Conscious Mind There is great focus on sustainability and protecting the environment and at Nilorn we not only offer sustainable products to our customers, but we aim to promote it through our actions too.

Here are

some other great companies offering sustainable products and services.

LIVE GREEN Jen Chillingsworth TRENDSPOTTING

52 STEPS FOR A MORE SUSTAINABLE LIFE

Many of us are already doing what we can to adopt a greener lifestyle. We recycle, try to reduce our waste and use of plastics, choose organic food when shopping, eat less meat and opt for environmentally friendly cleaning products. Yet we often wish we were doing more and it can be overwhelming to know where to start. Live Green is a practical guide

SANDQVIST

of 52 changes - one for each week of the year - that you can make to your home and lifestyle to reduce your impact on the environment.

Fabric wax

Live simply. Live Green.

CARE FOR YOUR BAG

MYIDOLLS This fabric wax in collaboration with Tangent is made with all-natural beeswax, soybean wax and coconut oil. Use this to protect and prolong

Every color of the rainbow

the life of your cotton or mixed cotton canvas

TEAM WORK MAKES THE DREAM WORK!

bags. The wax makes the fabric more durable and improves the water- and dirt-repellency. With our eco-friendly care range we aim to encourage longer use of our products. This is something that both benefits the environment and underlines our ambition to produce longlasting, functional bags. Care for your bag to make it withstand whatever nature throws at it. Read more about Sandqvistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision of an environmentally conscious future. www.sandqvist.com/en/sustainability

Dolls for all kids and for all kinds of games! We want to inspire children to play and to have fun - without being confined by gender norms nor influenced by skewed beauty standards. Our dolls have the proportions and attributes of a realistic human body. We are working on creating more body shapes to create a wide diversity in our range! Only non-toxic materials are used. All our products are designed, made and manufactured in Sweden! www.myidolls.com

YOUR HEALTHY FIX Plant based protein LET’S SHAKE UP THE PROTEIN SCENE

After running her healthy foodbar “DIVERS” for 3 years, Esther Andries found it was time to start her own plant based supplement brand. With a determination to create the best plant based protein out there, with zero ‘nasties’ added to it and 100% clean and healthy ingredients. Et voilà, in 2019 she launched “Your healthy fix”. A brand which you can rely on, to fuel your body only with the best! www.yourhealthyfix.eu You can read more about DIVERS on page 97

PANTAPÅ Recycle with your mobile THE WORLD’S FIRST APP TO RECYCLE PACKAGING.

TRENDSPOTTING

PantaPå in Sweden has developed a digital app that, with world-unique technology, offers brand owners the opportunity to connect their packaging to a digital deposit system. Consumers simply scan the bar code on the connected packaging at regular recycling stations and receive the deposit value - cash or points - directly into their phones. www.pantapa.se

GIBBON Travel Light RENT YOUR TRAVEL CLOTHES

Gibbon is a rental marketplace that connects the excess inventory from brands and retailers to the travellers who need these items. Our vision is a travel-light revolution where we provide the most hassle-free travelling process from travellers all over the world. We implement a circular economy within the fashion industry by disrupting the way brands and retailers manage their overstock and extending the usage of travel wear from the travellers. www.gibbon.today

Orchid Smoke PANTONE 15-2210 TPG Peach Pearl PANTONE 14-1419 TPG

DESIGN COLLECTION

Photo credits: Weslej Tingey, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION

20: 1 DESIGN COLLECTION

DESIGN COLLECTION

CREATIVE LABELS AND BRANDING

On the following pages, we present our latest design collections. Our aim is to provide our customers with inspiration and ideas on how they can take their labels and branding to a new level. We are always on the lookout for new materials and production techniques, whilst continuing to fine-tune the interaction between design, production and logistics. In this issue we asked photographer Olof Händén, to interpret one of our latest collections, ’RISE’.

Photo Olof Händén Styling Chrisna de Bruyn Hair / Make up Shahnaz Wrensch Model Simone - Boss models Model Raphael - Full Circle

DESIGN COLLECTION

The models are wearing second-hand, vintage clothes from a variety of brands.

DESIGN COLLECTION

A new path but with heritage in mind. Style, clothes and accessories for the urban human who feels just as at home on the concrete streets or on the beach. A citizen of the world who is conscious of their surrounding environment and who understands the value of balance. Natural and sustainable are key components for the RISE story. The awareness that one needs to be mindful of resources in the world is of the utmost priority. Every step leaves a footprint, but it should be a mindful one which creates a path for the ones following after. Human and nature in harmony.

Photo credits: Emma Waleij, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION Scandinavian simplicity reinterpreted. The essence of Erik KrĂ¸yer is a combination of technical and natural materials - and the fusion it creates. It is a formula that is recognisable. It is a sense of style, a sense of design that has been molded and perfected through generations to the point that it is imprinted in its DNA.

DESIGN COLLECTION

DESIGN COLLECTION When those luxurious materials touch the tip of your fingers and your skin it should be with a hint of seduction. With the promise of more because it is a sensation you will crave again and again. A zest for life and an â&#x20AC;?joie de vivreâ&#x20AC;? that excels in every detail which awaits - to be possessed and experienced.

Photo credits: Fernando Meloni, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION

DESIGN COLLECTION Braving the elements. With the latest innovations in materials, technology and design, Nordbeck Arctic+ is at the forefront when it comes to high-performance outdoor gear. Whether you are climbing an icy mountain or out on an arctic expedition, you will be protected from the changes in weather. When you brave the elements you need to be prepared and equipped for the task at hand, whatever it may be.

DESIGN COLLECTION

DESIGN COLLECTION An urban concept where there is a thought and philosophy behind every line. Street style with graphic design elements creates a denim concept that is contemporary and forward thinking. Less is more and a minimalistic approach travels through every detail of the brand. Like a chess board white can not exist without black. It is a symbiosis of two equal forces going hand in hand through time and space.

DESIGN COLLECTION

DESIGN COLLECTION Respekt is a highlight of our work to develop products with lower environmental impact. It shows the ongoing process to a more -sustainable offer, from design to delivery. The RESPEKT concept features, environmental finishings and various materials such as bamboo, vegetable tanned leather and FSCâ&#x201E;˘ paper as well as recycled materials. All articles comply with REACH regulations or meet higher ecological standards.

Photo credits: Nathan Anderson, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION

Photo credits: Max LaRochelle, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION

Responsibility needs the right gear. In the world of construction, visibility and protection are needed. All to create an environment that is safe and mindful of the people that are part of it, in the making of new habitats. Materials and seams are tried and tested to withstand all the eventualities that are thrown at the workers. Everything down to the smallest button or zipper go through the process of securing that all is up to the highest standard.

Photo credits: Katie Manning, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION Earth tones combined with the comfort of fabrics flowing down your body signify freedom. That freedom exudes empowerment as the Graziano woman strides through life, head held high and taking on life, full on.

DESIGN COLLECTION

DESIGN COLLECTION An inward look to strengthen the fusion of mind and body. Loose and comfortable clothes that enable you to create yoga positions with ease, which will in time give a better understanding of yourself. Sustainability and equality are mandatory when humans live a life that is aligned with nature. It brings comfort and encouragement on the road to discovering your full potential as a vital part of existence.

Photo credits: Victor Garcia, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION

Photo credits: Annie Spratt, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION A high-end factory born brand with a strong focus on sustainability, quality, craft and workmanship. Design for longeivity and local production. The styles are influenced by vintage workwear. Rough looks are combined with refined details.

DESIGN COLLECTION

DESIGN COLLECTION Cutting edge and contemporary â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it can take you from the hills straight to a New York club without missing a beat. This is not for blending in, but for taking your space and owning it. Everything is done with a purpose in mind, a sort of luxurious philosophy that sets you apart from the rest.

Photo credits: Bruno Kelzer, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION

deha.it

A ROYAL DESIGN That makes a differance

ARTICLE

A fundamental desire to make a difference in the lives of children runs like a red thread through the charity projects that Georg Jensen Damask has been engaged in over the years. From local soccer teams and the Danish hospital clowns to the international guiding and scouting movement. Most recently, a longstanding collaboration with the Swedish royal family and HM Queen Silvia of Sweden has resulted in the launch of a highly personal, royal tablecloth to support the World Childhood Foundation’s work for children in need all around the world. The tablecloth holds very particular meaning for the Swedish royal family. Originally, a trilogy of tablecloths were woven in three distinct designs as a gift for HM Queen Silvia on her 60th birthday. A red one for Christmas, a yellow one for Easter and a classic white for all seasons and occasions. All the tablecloths carry the Queen’s monogram, and the Queen personally created the elegant designs in cooperation with Danish designer Diana Holstein.

Now, the royal Easter design is being launched to aid children in need around the world. In 1999, HM Queen Silvia established the World Childhood Foundation, and as an honorary member of the board she remains deeply involved in the effort to protect children’s right to a safe childhood, free from violence and abuse. For the foundation’s 20th anniversary HM Queen Silvia therefore decided to lend the foundation the design of her personal Easter tablecloth. The tablecloth is woven exclusively for the benefit of the World Childhood Foundation, which works to prevent child abuse and improve children’s living conditions through local initiatives. For each tablecloth that is sold, Georg Jensen Damask donate 100 Euros to the foundation’s work. The beautiful damask tablecloth has been named QUEEN SILVIA’S EASTER TABLECLOTH after the yellow tablecloth that the Swedish royal family use for Easter every year. With the Queen’s blessing the Easter tablecloth is also available in white, so

HM QUEEN SILVIA WITH DESIGNER DIANA HOLSTEIN.

ARTICLE

NILORN DENMARK PROUDLY SUPERVISED AND SPONSORED THE PACKAGING DEVELOPMENT OF THE CHILDHOOD FOUNDATION GIFTBOX.

that the design can be used around the year. It is our hope that the unique story and purpose of the tablecloth will help raise awareness of children’s rights and how we can protect them. A tablecloth lasts a long time and QUEEN SILVIA’S EASTER TABLECLOTH offers a way to bring up difficult topics when family and friends gather around the table to break the silence about abuse and suffering and give the children of the world a voice. With the tablecloth comes a Childhood bracelet to thank you for supporting the work for children in need. The bracelet consists of ten beads in different colours,

each symbolising an article in the United Nations’ Convention on the Rights of the Child, which defines children’s rights. While the colourful bracelet is the image of the exuberance, play and spontaneity we associate with childhood, the classic design of the royal Easter tablecloth interweaves the present with the future. The fundamental message is the same: all children have the right to a safe and secure childhood. TEXT AND PHOTOS COURTESY GEORG JENSEN DAMASK/ WORLD CHILDHOOD FOUNDATION

Red Clay PANTONE 18-1454 TPG Turkish Sea PANTONE 19-4053 TPG

Photo credits: Michal Pechardo, Unsplash

“IT´S ALL ABOUT THE BAG” Whether it’s a walk in the great outdoors, exploring a new city or even just your daily commute to work - having the right bag to hold all your essentials in is a must! These are just a few bags that we’ve handpicked, that we’re loving right now.

TRENDSPOTTING

1. Algot is a vegan bag in ballistic polyester

made from

using

100%

recycled

post-consumer

2. Croxley

notebook material

laptop

backpack

Waterproof

waste.

materials

sandqvist.com

backpack.

made

from

multifunctional

Practical

recycled

backpack

Proof 28. Made in Germany. jack-wolfskin.com

3. Dante this spacious rolltop backpack from

our Ground series is produced from an organic cotton and recycled polyester mix with smooth leather details and a metal hook. sandqvist.com

4. Aqua

Back

Plus

parrot

green.

The

waterproof rear panniers are climate neutrally manufactured. for

all

world

PVC-free

travel

tarpaulin

adventures.

material

vaude.com

5. Jarl computer case Jarl by Saddler. Classic case

in high quality leather. The perfect protection for

your computer when you are on the go. saddler.com

6. HH ocean dry bag L our most rugged dry bag.

The HH Ocean Dry Bag will keep your valuables

dry regardless of the weather. hellyhansen.com

7. Ymse 24 made of Lundhags PolyCotton,

blend

recycled

polyester

and

organic

cotton. The versatile bag can be carried as a

backpack, shoulder bag or handbag. lundhags.com

8. Duna is a weekend bag made in canvas with

leather details. On the inside there is an removable compartment. All the practical attributes makes Duna the perfect bag to travel with. sneakysteve.com

8. 89

WELCOME TO

[R]EVOLUTION* * FORGET EVERYTHING THAT YOU KNOW ABOUT WORK SHOES...

DIKE PRESENTS PRIMATO THE EVOLUTION OF THE WORK SHOE PRIMATO is the new line of work shoes by Dike, a brand specialised in workwear shoes and clothing that designs, plans and manufactures entirely in Italy.

PRIMATO, the first shoe with the innovative system DTRSÂŽ (Dike Total Resilience System), dictates the third millennium requirements for safety and comfort, representing the state-ofthe-art in the field of work footwear. The highly advanced technologies behind Primato act synergistically, offering uncompromising excellence: a shoe that is so ergonomic that muscle

ensure correct posture thanks to the shift of the centre of gravity toward the heel.

The DTRS system, in fact, consists of numerous technologies (DER, DAS, DXT, DTS) designed

INSPIRATION TRIP

fatigue is reduced, 40% lighter than normal work shoes, with a 40% energy return, and able to

and implemented in the Dike laboratories to offer the worker a unique experience that optimises his or her performance, because safety does not have to mean lack of comfort. Today, thanks to Dike, it is possible to work comfortably and safely and give the best of yourself without any impediment while, at the same time, minimising fatigue.

PRIMATO is the point in which evolution becomes revolution, offering an unprecedented resilience.

Dike.works

SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS AND

SUSTAINABLE MINDSET ILLUSTRATIONS BY RIKARD HĂ&#x201E;LL

Each year our designers from across the Nilorn Group embark on inspiration trips

concept collections, seek out new ideas and to ensure we stay up-to-date with the latest trends. Here at Nilorn, we have been working to reduce the impact we have on the environment - not only through our offering in sustainable products and

INSPIRATION TRIP

- travelling to different locations across the globe to get inspired for the Nilorn

materials, but also in all aspects of what we do.

In 2019, our designers made a conscious decision to only visit places that they could travel to by train. Rail transport is the most environmentally-friendly way to travel, aside from walking or cycling, as the greenhouse effect of gas emissions per kilometre are 80% less than travelling by car. In some countries, less than 3% of all transport gas emissions come from trains.

AMSTERDAM ANTWERP STOCKHOLM

AMSTERDAM

Amsterdam is a fascinating city that is extremely peculiar and outstandingly beautiful. Lovely cobblestone streets that wind up in narrow alleys and alongside canals and moored houseboats. There is not one area in Amsterdam that is not fully utilised.

The first thing you probably notice when you enter Amsterdamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s streets are the many houses that line them - tightly packed side-by-side. The quaint streets have small alleys every now and then that open up into hidden courtyards. Many of the buildings are narrow, but built high up and consist of multiple floors.

AMSTERDAM – ANTWERP

One of the inspirational trips last year took two designers on a trip to Amsterdam and Antwerp. As you can see from the comparison below, carbon dioxide emissions are 98% less when travelling by train compared directly to travelling by air.

CO2 EMISSIONS PER PASSENGER Journey:

By plane

By train

Amsterdam to Antwerp

Duration: 2:50, 83.8 Kg/CO2

Duration: 1:15, 1.5 Kg/CO2

98% less

HOTEL V: Hotel V Nesplein Hotel V Frederiksplein Hotel V Fizeaustraat

RESTAURANTS: The Lobby Nesplein The Lobby Fizeaustraat

LOCATION NES 49 1012 KD Amsterdam The Netherlands

HOTEL

Hotel V & The Lobby Hotel V & The Lobby’s founders are true Amsterdammer’s with a great passion for the authentic and inspiring character of the city. What started as a family business has grown into an well-known concept in the Amsterdam Hotel scene, where both staff and guests are seen as family of the hotel. Each hotel has its own character, atmosphere and handpicked music - but the hotels retain the Hotel V DNA; Urban Amsterdam Rebels, not mainstream and accessible to everyone. Hotel V & The Lobby Nesplein is located in the old Amsterdam theatre district in a historic building from the 17th century. Both the Hotel and the restaurant have a stylish mix of chic and vintage with a warm, cosy and intimate atmosphere. Various theatre elements can be found here, such as the giant chandelier, impressive bar and the cosy library with a fireplace. The lobby represents a unique place where the hotel bar and restaurant come together. With the opening of The Lobby in Hotel V Nesplein, Amsterdam was introduced to the term “Living Lobby” for the first time in 2013. A place where edgy people from Amsterdam and their international soulmates meet.

AMSTERDAM

LUNCH

Stach In the middle of the movement on Koningsplein you will find the small but pleasant STACH, where tourists - day tourists in particular - come in for a pit stop. Sit back and relax at a high table by the window, overlooking the Singel for a refreshing drink, sandwich or delicious cake.

INSPIRATION TRIP LOCATION Singel 437 1012 WP Amsterdam

OPENING HOURS

Mon - Sat

08:00 - 22:00

Sun

09:00 - 21:00

ANTWERP

LOCATION Volkstraat 9 2000 Antwerp

INSPIRATION TRIP

BREAKFAST

Divers “Divers is the coolest kid on the block in Antwerp, and not just some kid: the healthiest one in town!” We believe that great food and great company are crucial ingredients to the good life. All of our drinks and foods are free-from refined sugars, additives or other ‘nasties’ and are also made to TAKE-AWAY. We believe that pure, clean foods not only taste wonderful but also have healing and nutritious benefits for your body. In order to feel and look your best, we want you to incorporate more veggies and fruit in your daily routine – trust us, you will notice the difference!

ANTWERP

LOCATION Kloosterstraat 38 2000 Antwerp Belgium

OPENING HOURS Mon - Sat

10:00 - 18:00

Sun

13:00 - 18:00

INSPIRATION TRIP

SHOP

Supergoods Supergoods eco + fair fashion is a sustainable concept store with three stores in Belgium - in Mechelen, Ghent and Antwerp. We stock the most exciting eco + fair brands. Clothing, shoes, accessories, gifts, cosmetics, denims...

In Antwerp you can find us in a brand-new store in the charming Kloosterstraat - look for number 38! This store will stock your favourite Supergoods brands, with emphasis on fashion and beauty - of course!

ANTWERP

Diamond center Antwerp is one of the oldest diamond centers and has a rich history that in many ways tells the story of the changes in the global economy over the last five centuries.

The history of Antwerpâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diamond industry begins in the early 16th century, when rough diamonds came from India, first to the city of Bruges and then to Antwerp, where they were polished and set in jewellery for nobility and wealthy traders.

An important turning point for polishing diamonds was when Lodewyk van Berken invented the Scaif in 1456, a polishing wheel with a mixture of oil and diamond dust. For the first time, it was possible to polish all facets of the diamond symmetrically, at angles that reflected light in a way never seen before.

Today, 1,700 diamond companies are registered in Belgium with over 4,500 diamond dealers, providing a living for more than 10,000 people. There are 45 large diamond companies (+$500 million in business annually), 100 mid-size companies ($500-$150 million) and 1,400 small companies. They operate out of four diamond exchanges: Diamant Kring, Diamant Beurs, Diamant Club and the Beurs voor vrije Diamanthandel.

As a result of all events over the centuries, Antwerp polishers have had to continually evolve their polishing methods. Starting in the mid-17th century, when Antwerp polishers had to extract gem stones out of small, lowquality rough, allocated to them by Amsterdamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diamonds traders, they grew to develop skills that enabled them to polish stones of larger sizes.

MUSEUM

Diva Enter the dazzling world of DIVA, a cocoon of luxury and extravagance filled with diamonds, jewellery and silverware.

From melees and medium sizes, they developed the expertise required

LOCATION

in polishing very large and high quality stones. Antwerp had to let go of

DIVA, Antwerp Home of Diamonds

polishing small and medium sizes due to competition with other centers

Suikerrui 17-19

that were able to do it at a lower rate of labour costs. Their ability to quickly

B-2000 Antwerp

gain new skills and high technology supported Antwerp in this transition. OPENING HOURS To this day, Antwerp is a key diamond center, mainly for rough supplies, the polishing of high-end diamonds and financing.

Daily 10:00 - 18:00 Closed on Wednesdays

BORÅS – STOCKHOLM

INSPIRATION TRIP

LOCATION

Gamla Stan Today, Gamla Stan is just the old part of Stockholm with well-preserved alleys and buildings. But when Stockholm was founded in the 13th century, by Birger Jarl, Gamla Stan was the main point of the city itself. The city grew larger on Stortorget - the Town Hall and the village church was built, which is the oldest part of the Great Church.

Gamla Stan is also Sweden’s largest connected cultural protected area where the charming alleys and the small squares are just as popular to visit for the Stockholmer’s as it is for the tourists. The oldest and preserved street in Stockholm is Köpmangatan, which was mentioned as early as 1323.

In Gamla Stan there are attractions such as the Royal Palace, the Swedish Parliament, museums, libraries, works of art on the streets, squares and parks and portals that tell the history of the houses among many others. It is also a living part of the city with more shops than any other place, on a comparable area, in Sweden. It also has more restaurants which, during the summer, have outdoor seating on a large number of pedestrian streets.

100

The most recent inspiration trip towards the end of last year was made by two Swedish designers. They took the train from the main office in Borås to Stockholm. As you can see from the comparison below, carbon dioxide emissions are 99% less when traveling by train compared to direct flights.

CO2 EMISSIONS PER PASSENGER Journey:

By plane

By train

Borås to Stockholm

Duration: 2:50, 137.3 Kg/CO2

Duration: 3:19, 1.1 Kg/CO2

99% less

STOCKHOLM

SHOP

Iris Hantverk Iris Craft has strong ties to and shares its history with the Visually Impaired Federation. During the 19th century, Sweden began to change from being a farming country to becoming an industrial society. In November 1870, Doctor Axel Beskov took the initiative and founded the Manila School, a working home for the blind in Stockholm. In the beginning there were nine people and most of them lived in the home. Remuneration was 75 per cent of the sales value of the products - part of this would pay the rent. Iris Craft was formally founded in 1902 when it was decided that materials for brush binding and basket making would be purchased jointly to press prices and sold to visually impaired craftsmen at purchase price. Today we have 15 employees, of whom 6 are visually impaired craftsmen. We also co-operate with visually impaired people in Estonia (10 brush binders). We still provide individual craftsmen across the country with materials. Our design has been developed over the years, but even today, the brush binders use the traditional brush binding technique used for over a hundred years. The brushes are drawn by hand in mostly natural material.

LOCATION Västerlånggatan 24 111 29 Stockholm

OPENING HOURS Mon - Fri

10:00 - 18:00

Sat

11:00 - 16:00

Sun

12:00 - 16:00

For Iris Craft, sustainability and history are closely interwoven. The traditional craft is based on technology and materials that have looked the same for over 100 years. Tying brushes by hand in natural materials is a matter of course for us, as it has always been. We are doing what we have always done but now the time will come and the interest in sustainable, long-term production has made our products in-demand in the homes again.

The brushes use only natural materials and are preferably sourced from Sweden. We use Swedish or Nordic woods - oak, ash, birch and maple. The choice of wood material used is controlled by what the brush will be used for. We oil the wood parts in boiled cold-pressed linseed oil from Sweden and we get the wood parts from different wood manufacturers. Most of those that we are supplied by today, we have used for several decades - but it is a production that is going to disappear. Today, we sell our products in our two own-stores and webshops here in Sweden, but also through our 900 retailers around the world.

101

STOCKHOLM

DINNER

Misshumasshu Open for all. Days and nights. One part Stockholm, one part Tokyo. Flavoured by Adam & Albin. Lively, diverse, fun. Noodles and whiskey, sliders and sake. Local, global, seasonal, whatever. Mix as you wish. Come as you are.

LOCATION BIRGER JARLSPASSAGEN

CONTACT +46 8 425 125 50 restaurang@misshumasshu.se

VERSACE ARTICLE

GIANNI VERSACE – A RETROSPECTIVE EXHIBITION IN BORÅS BY PATRICK HJÉRTEN

105

ARTICLE

Gianni

Versace

and

his

designs

exuded

decadence, opulence and enthralled the world - the fashion world in particular. He left a neverending mark on history and his influence on how we view fashion and design still lives on.

At the beginning of the 1990s Gianni Versace had enormous success. To step into one of his shops at that time was like stepping into a palace of marble and gold with the iconic Medusa head embossed on the ground in front of the shop door. Just a few years later Gianni Versace was sadly shot and killed outside his Miami mansion. The fashion world had lost its brightest star. At the Borås Textile Museum there is now an exhibition ‘Gianni Versace Retrospective’, containing private collections of the Versace design. Visiting Borås was the curator, Karl von der Ahé, Antonio Caravano who is one of the world’s largest collectors of Versace Design, Bruno Gianesi who was design director under Gianni Versace for a period of time and the rest of the Italian visitors. Later Karl von der Ahé opened the exhibition in Swedish. He moved from Germany to Sweden when he was sixteen, worked, had a family and even though he now lives in Germany, still remembers the language. When you walk into the exhibition you see the colourful shirts inspired by the life and the men of Miami South Beach. There are pieces from the bondage collection and film clips of the classic 1990s catwalk shows with Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Helena Christensen and Claudia Schiffer to name a few. The middle of the exhibition floor is like a temple with the walls and ceiling mounted with Gianni Versace’s spectacular scarfs behind glass. The opening of the exhibition was well visited and it is safe to say the Borås Textile Museum will in all likelihood break the record of the total number of visitors for an exhibition again.

106

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Gianni Versace was born in Italy in 1946. He grew up in Reggio Calabria with his family and had an older brother Santo and a younger sister Donatella. Gianni’s mother was a seamstress and dressmaker and was a big influence on him. The step into the clothing business started early with an apprenticeship at the company where Gianni’s mother worked. At the age of 26 he moved to Milan to work in the fashion business and began working for Byblos and later for Complice. Versace was successful and started making his own collections - he opened his boutique on Via della Spiga in Milan in 1978. The Gianni Versace business was a real family business with brother Santo as President of the company and sister Donatella as Vice President. Donatella would later become head designer of the less expensive and more youthful line, Versus. Gianni Versace also employed Donatella’s husband, Paul Beck, to work with the menswear line and Donatella was always Gianni Versace’s main muse. Versace quickly became a household name in the fashion world with bold prints, strong colours and very sexy cuts that accentuated the female body. He was very

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heavily influenced by ancient Greek culture as well as pop culture and the city of Miami that he made his home. Giorgio Armani was on the opposite end of the spectrum with simplistic, clean design and it was always said that there was a rivalry between Armani and Versace. There was a saying about the two designers’ different styles and rivalry; “Armani dresses the wife. Versace dresses the mistress”. The luxurious and bold design attracted famous clients including Madonna, Sting, Elton John and Princess Diana. His collections were photographed by A-list photographers such as Richard Avedon and Bruce Weber with celebrities such as Sylvester Stallone, Elton John and Madonna as models - as well as all the supermodels, which the phenomenon was largely contributed to by Gianni Versace. Growing up in catholic Italy at a more conservative time was not easy for Gianni Versace who was gay. Gianni

Versace wanted to convey that when you saw his designs you saw him and he drew a lot of inspiration from the Miami gay scene into his men’s collections which was then picked up other designers. A lot of homo-eroticism was used in the advertising which also made others follow. Gianni Versace was in a long-term relationship with D’Amico (a former model) of fifteen years when he was shot outside his house, Casa Casuarina, on the 15th of July in 1997 by Andrew Cunanan, who had an obsession with Versace. He was 50 years old. At the time of his death the Versace empire consisted of 130 stores around the world and the company’s estimated worth was 807 million dollars. The bulk of the estate was inherited by Gianni Versace’s niece, Allegra. Today the Gianni Versace brand is owned by Michael Kors, but you can still feel the creative spirit of Versace. That spirit still spells decadence.

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