More fit for the future SUSTAINABILITY REPORT - 2017 NILORN
table of Contents 3
Words from our CEO
5
About Nilorn
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Sustainability at Nilorn
8
The Global Goals
12
Strategic direction
14
Combating modern slavery
15
Business conduct
17
Environmental Protection
19
Microplastics
20 Traceability for sustainability 24 Insight: Working at Nilorn 26 Production and logistics 29 Insight: Dhaka factory 30 Supply chain 32 Employees 34 Social engagement 36 Stakeholders and initiatives 39 Sustainability risks 40 Our way forward
About this report This is Nilorn’s statutory sustainability report for 2017, prepared in accordance with the requi-
rements in Chapter 6 of the Swedish Annual Accounts Act. It covers all of the Nilorn operations,
unless otherwise stated in relation to reporting of specific indicators from our sites. The report has been submitted by the Board of Directors, together with the Annual Report.
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Together we can The world has set goals aiming to create a much better world for everyone, by 2030.
These are the United Nations Global Goals. We see that many of our clients are early
adapters in linking these challenges and opportunities, to their business and the life
cycle of their products. We deliver small parts but we can make a large difference in
what we do. By doing so we can be a part of the shifts required to reach those goals for the whole industry. An important part of achieving more sustainable value chains, both
in terms of e nvironmental and social aspects, is traceability. It’s here we can have an increasingly important role to play as our products often are a link between the brand and the consumer.
This is our second sustainability report, where we report on our work, our progress and the way forward. During 2017, I can proudly say that we have achieved a lot and really
accelerated our sustainability work. To name a few, we have updated our Supplier Code
of Conduct and our Code for Business Conduct and Ethics. Nilorn East Asia in Hong Kong is now also bluesign® certified.
We have a constant focus on finding the most sustainable materials for our customers and continue to learn and improve together with them. In this report we update you on our work with different materials and product certifications.
In April 2017, we opened a completely new production unit in Dhaka, Bangladesh, producing woven and printed labels and paper products.
At the centre of everything we do are our employees - and it is with ourselves we have
to start. We need to offer a workplace where everyone can thrive in their respective roles, without compromising their health and wellbeing. But we also need to ensure that we have a common ground, in our company values - that sustainability and business ethics are an integrated part of our every day work and decisions.
Together with our clients, suppliers and other partners, we will become more fit for the future. Claes af Wetterstedt CEO Nilörngruppen AB
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2017
HIGHLIGHTS • Our newly built production site in Dhaka started production • The Nilorn production in Hong Kong became bluesign® certified • We updated our Supplier Code of Conduct and handbook • We implemented a new system for collecting non-financial information from all our sites
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About Nilorn Nilorn is an international company, founded in 1977, which
adds value to brands through branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Our clients are
mostly found in the fashion and clothing industry, many of which have a presence in international markets. At Nilorn we
strive to increase our clients’ competitiveness by providing services that cover all design aspects, plus a logistics system that guarantees reliable and short delivery times.
NILORN’S COMPETIVE ADVANTAGES IS PRIMARLY DEMONSTRATED IN TWO SPECIFIC AREAS: • Creative expertise in the branding and design of labels, packaging and accessories
• Logistical solutions to ensure deadlines are met in the
market where clients demand an increasingly high level of service.
OFFICES
OFFICES/MANUFACTURING BASES
• Belgium
• Bangladesh
• Denmark
• Germany
• China • India
• Italy • Pakistan • Sweden
• England
• Hong Kong • Portugal • Turkey
• Switzerland • USA
2017 FACTS AND FIGURES • Turnover from 680 (610) MSEK, i.e. an increase of 11 % • Number of employees 444 (358) • 49 % of employees work in production and warehouse • Women/men ratio 47 % / 53 % • Number of labels delivered more than 1.5 billion
Sustainability at Nilorn
Governance
For the past 30 years, we have been supplying our clients
ENVIRONMENTAL POLICY
with customised high-quality designed labels and other
Throughout the whole process, from design to
brand-strengthening products and services. We like and
delivery, we strive to implement our Environmental
want to stay ahead.
Policy. Read more about our environmental focus and performance on page 17.
We acknowledge our clients’ challenge to secure a supply
chain that minimises – and eventually eliminates – all negative impact on people and the environment. Therefore,
CODE OF CONDUCT
working proactively on sustainability is an important value that we add to our clients’ brands.
Our Supplier Code of Conduct serves as a common foundation for us and our suppliers in terms of
Sustainability at Nilorn means working towards meeting
acting in a responsible manner, including focusing
the needs of people and society without compromising
on environmental protection and good working
interests of many people. All in line with the UN Sustainable
the Code of Conduct on page 30.
conditions. Read more about our work to implement
the needs of future generations – acting in the long-term Development Goals.
It means adapting to the limitations of the planet and
protecting the environment. It means promoting a strong,
ANTI-CORRUPTION POLICY
and fulfil their potential.
Our Anti-Corruption Policy contains the organisation’s
healthy, inclusive and fair society where people can prosper
rules and restrictions regarding gifts and other forms of appreciation. It also describes the procedures
Nilorn believes in taking a holistic approach - including the
for employees to raise any ethical questions or to
entire design, manufacturing and supply chain.
report any breaches or suspected breaches of the company’s code of conduct. Read more about our
The Sustainability Manager is located at our Head Office
work to implement business ethics on page 15.
and co-ordinates Nilorn’s sustainability work, together with local staff in our sourcing countries. In Nilorn East Asia we
have our Supply, Sourcing and CSR Manager, which enables us to have a closer relationship to suppliers in that region.
HUMAN RESOURCE POLICY Our Human Resource Policy regulates what the company expects of its employees and what employees expect of the company. The HR policy mainly regulates: management responsibility for
• Nilorn’s actions aim to have an overall positive impact on the planet and contribute to protecting biodiversity, animal welfare, sustainable use of resources and the development of a value chain with a low carbon impact.
developing its staff, information supplied to all em-
• Nilorn is committed to having a positive influence on people’s lives impacted by its business, based on respect for human rights, meaningful community involvement and shared values.
ployees, annual performance reviews, payments and IT usage. Read more about our work to implement business ethics on page 15.
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THE VALUE CHAIN - FROM A SUSTAINABILITY PERSPECTIVE
Making more detailed decisions on choice of materials, to which factories to place orders etc. We have an important role in giving our clients options to choose more sustainable solutions.
Discussing choice of materials and its implications on sustainability with our client.
Ensuring that the ambitions of the client and our own knowledge, result in products that have an as low Âenvironmental impact as possible.
48h
The conditions under which the products are produced, in terms of environmental performance of the factory and occupational health and safety and other labour conditions for the workers.
h h 4848
48
h
48h
48h
By working close to our customers production sites, we can minimise distances, and therefore transport emissions.
48h Our products are a part of other products, so our key role in this part of the chain is to deliver promptly, in order not to cause delays, which in turn could have negative consequences both from an environmental and worker perspective.
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We can help our customers reach out to the consumer with messages concerning labelling of products and, in general, help increase the transparency and traceability of products.
The Global Goals AD D R E S S I N G TH E G LOB A L S U S TA I N A B LE D E V E LO P M E N T G OA LS
We are signatories to the UN Global Compact and this
We deliver our products to fashion brands across the
should stand. At the initiative of the UN, the international
opportunities the fashion industry is facing in relation to the
commitment defines the foundation on which our business
globe. Throughout 2017, we looked into the challenges and
community has formulated and adopted 17 global goals
sustainable development goals and their targets. We have
in 2015, aiming to eradicate poverty and malnutrition as
researched how brands have investigated and communicated
well as to ensure a truly sustainable development across
their most material challenges and opportunities. Based on
the social, environmental and economic dimensions. These
that and following a mapping of the issues of utmost priority
are ambitious goals. Nilorn, as a supplier to leading global
for our own business, we have found that a number of the
fashion brands, stands behind the goals and is committed to
goals and targets are of particular relevance. We take a closer
do its share to contribute to reach the goals.
look at these goals at page 10 and 11.
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In September 2015, all 193 Member States of the United Nations adopted a plan for achieving a better future for all — laying out a path over the next 15 years to end extreme poverty, fight inequality and injustice, and protect our planet. At the heart of Agenda 2030 are the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) which clearly define the world we want — applying to all nations and leaving no one behind. Read more about the goals here: https://www.un.org/sustainabledevelopment/ sustainable-development-goals/ With the launch of the SDGs, business is explicitly called upon to make a contribution to the global sustainability agenda.
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Clean water and sanitation ENSURE AVAILABILITY AND S USTAINABLE MANAGEMENT OF WATER AND SANITATION FOR ALL Water scarcity and poor water quality is a daily challenge
less than 1% of total water supply is accessible and fit for
Decent work and economic growth
For many types of apparel and accessories, water is used
PROMOTE SUSTAINED, INCLUSIVE AND
of raw materials, such as cotton, to the washing of a
SUSTAINABLE ECONOMIC GROWTH,
for many people around the world. The fresh water supply chain is already stressed in many countries and human consumption.
all along the life-cycle of the product. From the production garment in the household of the consumer.
FULL AND PRODUCTIVE EMPLOYMENT AND DECENT WORK FOR ALL
One target under this development goal is to improve
water quality by reducing pollution, eliminating dumping
Nearly 2.2 billion people live below the US$2 a day
and minimising release of hazardous chemicals and
poverty line. Sustainable economic growth will require
materials. In our supply chain we can work with w ater
societies to create the conditions that allow people to have
issues directly by being more efficient in the processes that
quality jobs that stimulate the economy while not har-
require water and ensuring proper waste water treatment.
ming the environment.
We also engage indirectly in projects aiming at improving the conditions further upstream, such as through our
One important target for this development goal is to take
engagement with Cotton made in Africa.
immediate and effective measures to eradicate forced
labour, end modern slavery and human trafficking and secure the prohibition and elimination of child labour.
We commit ourselves to implement social standards, such
as living wages and decent working conditions in our
supply chain. There is a screening of new suppliers and we encourage our suppliers to adopt quality, environmental
and occupational health and safety m anagement systems certifications and include certification schemes used by
suppliers in our criteria for choice of suppliers. Four of
our production units are part of Sedex and have a SMETA audit report.
We work with social projects, such as for cotton growers
in Africa (Cotton made in Africa), where studies of the social impact of the projects show clear improvements in
social conditions thanks to the training received through the programs.
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Responsible consumption and production ENSURE SUSTAINABLE CONSUMPTION AND PRODUCTION PATTERNS Sustainable consumption and production aims at “doing
more and better with less,” increasing net welfare gains
from economic activities by reducing resource use, degradation and pollution along the whole lifecycle, while
Climate action
increasing quality of life. One target for this development goal is to substantially reduce waste generation through prevention, reduction, recycling and reuse.
TAKE URGENT ACTION TO COMBAT
At Nilorn we have already done work in this direction
CLIMATE CHANGE AND ITS IMPACTS
by adopting policies to choose more environmentally
friendly materials, increasing the use of recycled
Climate change is one of the most pressing e nvironmental
materials, and taking action for a sound management
issues of our time and climate change is a global challenge
of chemicals. A lot of work remains to be done for our
that does not respect national borders. Here the issues are
industry to fully align with responsible consumption and
clearly linked to more circular use of materials, as that
production t argets, in particular with regard to addressing
would decrease the impacts all along the value chain.
our impacts throughout the life-cycle of the products. Nilorn has joined the bluesign® system to put the whole
In the case of our industry as a whole - and to our own
production chain in focus and strive to protect health and
business - climate change poses risks. The supply of
the environment across the entire chain of production.
materials is dependent on the ability to grow resources.
The infrastructure of the supply chains along with our own factories is, of course, vulnerable to extreme weather
Partnerships for the goals
events and other potential consequences of climate change.
In 2017, Nilorn began to take action and set out plans to
decrease the greenhouse gas emissions caused by our activities, raising awareness at our sites and preparing to
STRENGTHEN THE MEANS OF IMPLEMENTATION
be involved in adaptation.
AND REVITALISE THE GLOBAL PARTNERSHIP FOR SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT
We measure the impact of business travel and energy
The achievement of the global sustainable development
renewable sources. We also must be aware of the risk
consumption and will increase our use of energy from
goals depends upon the collaboration of many different
of climate change affecting our supply chain located
actors, including businesses. A stronger commitment to
in areas likely to be affected and see how we can be
partnership and cooperation is needed to achieve the goals.
involved in adaptation.
Nilorn is a small global organisation and in our sustainability
work we must cooperate and also rely on the effort of many other organisations, including labels and certifications. Example of co-operations are FSC (read more on page 23), Sedex membership and the Swerea Chemical group.
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Strategic direction VISION
GOAL
To be the best label and branding company worldwide.
To exceed our clients expectations in all aspects of our global operations.
BUSINESS CONCEPT Nilorn’s mission is to design, manufacture and sell labels
STRATEGY
and textile industry to strengthen their brand presence
brand presence in international markets. F undamentally, our
and label programmes in order to assist clients in the f ashion
Nilorn provides services to clients that help them to grow their
in international markets. Nilorn offers a complete line of
success is tied to the success of our clients.
branding services, from design to manufacturing, sales,
logistics and service. The process includes branding identity
Nilorn’s strategy is based on achieving growth through
integrated logistics and other services within the supply
attract consumers to our clients’ brands and products.
and differentiation through design, product development,
innovative design, products and services that add value and
chain. Nilorn’s mission can be summarised as ”Adding value to your brand”.
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VISION:
To be the best label and branding company worldwide
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COMBATING MODERN SLAVERY Modern slavery is a growing concern: an estimated 45 million people were in some form of modern slavery across 167 countries in 2016. The International Labour Organisation estimates that 1 in 4 victims of modern slavery are children, while women and girls account for over 70% of victims. Modern slavery is a term that captures a range of human rights issues, including forced labour, bonded labour, human trafficking and child slavery. The complexity of supply chains increase the likelihood of modern slavery in the global industry. In 2017, Nilorn published its first statement in line with the UK Modern Slavery Act 2015, detailing the steps we are taking to mitigate the risk of modern slavery occurring in the supply chain and business operations. Nilorn has a zero tolerance approach to modern slavery in any form and the different forms of modern slavery are covered by the focus areas of our supply chain audits.
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Business conduct The core values are the practices a Nilorn employee should be guided by daily, in all work situations. They form a common platform and strengthen our teamwork. Together with our Code of Conduct and other ethical guidelines, they guide how we conduct our business. NILORN CORE VALUES
BUSINESS ETHICS Nilorn’s anti-corruption policy includes not accepting gifts
• Passion
or other benefits from our partners. If ever gifts are accepted,
• Innovation
it should take place with full transparency and in a manner
• Respect
that follows the organisation’s policy. Employees sign the
• Common Sense
anti-corruption policy, incorporated in the induction of new
• Responsibility
employees.
• Execute
• Teamwork
CODE OF CONDUCT Nilorn’s Supplier Code of Conduct lays out the o verall
ethical approach for us and our suppliers. It is part of
NILORN SUPPLIER CODE OF CONDUCT
the contract that we have with suppliers. However, it is a
• Freedom of association
challenge to e nsure that the values and requirements of the
• Working conditions
Code of C onduct are implemented. We, and our suppliers,
• Wages and working hours
operate in countries with different traditions and legal
• Child labour
requirements. In 2017 we did not terminate any business
• Forced labour
relationship suppliers due to non-compliances.
• Non discrimination
GLOBAL COMPACT Since January 2017, Nilorn is signatory to the UN Global
NILORN CODE OF ETHICS AND BUSINESS CONDUCT
Compact corporate responsibility initiative and its 10
• Compliance with laws and regulations
principles in the areas of human rights, labour, the environment and anti-corruption.
• Respect in the workplace
In 2017 we updated our Supplier Code of Conduct and
• Professionalism
• Protection of company property
the Code of Ethics and Business conduct applicable for all Nilorn employees, to ensure that they are aligned with the UN Global Compact. We will also continue our focus
on communication of these updated policies and roll-out training, at all locations of Nilorn.
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REACH is a regulation of the European Union, adopted to Âimprove the protection of human health and the environment from the risks that can be posed by chemicals, while enhancing the competitiveness of the EU chemicals industry. It also promotes alternative methods for the hazard assessment of substances in order to reduce the number of tests on animals. The REACH regulation specifies a list of restricted chemicals and REACH affects all EU-actors that professionally manufacture, import, sell, buy, distribute or use chemicals as such and in articles. If goods contain restricted chemicals it is mandatory that the manufacturers and importers are informed.
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Environmental protection The client, and end consumer, should feel secure in the use of Nilorn’s whole product range. Sustainable products, for us, implies finding better materials. Once chosen and used, those materials should be kept in a recycling loop for as long as possible. For us it is important to work to be genuinely better all round, not only from the product perspective. We are committed to reducing the environmental impact of
understanding and improving the situation in Hong Kong
processes, choosing a supplier, planning the logistics etc. Our
sense that all of us as residents and business people in Hong
everything we do - designing a product, choosing production
with regard to plastic waste. The project was motivated by a
aim is to be a genuinely environmentally-friendly c ompany,
Kong can do more to keep our city greener. Simple statistics,
not just selling eco-friendlier products when we are asked
such as the 5.2 million plastic bottles discarded every day
for them. Both materials and mode of transportation are
by Hong Kongers (that is almost 2 billion bottles per year),
almost always decided by the client. Our role in guiding the
illustrate the seriousness of the situation. Nilorn East Asia
client in finding better alternatives is becoming more and
has signed on to this “No Plastic Waste Challenge” and also
more important and we see an increased interest from our
signed a new agreement for waste handling.
clients to use either certified materials such as FSC paper or made of recycled polyester, for example.
During 2016 we took a first step in collecting information and measuring our emissions. It gave us an initial baseline in our
In our updated Supplier Handbook there are explicit environmental
requirements,
including,
for
work to reduce our environmental impact. We i mplemented
example,
a new system for collecting non-financial information from
chemical handling, environmental management system,
internal and external sources in 2017, with the aim to get
energy and waste handling.
relevant, consistent and transparent reporting.
In 2017, the Sustainability Committee of the Swedish
Nilorn’s operations are located in several different countries
Chamber of Commerce started a project aimed at
and as there are differences in emissions between countries,
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especially diverse and wide-ranging for electricity consump-
Nilorn is participating in the Chemicals Group at Swerea IVF.
possibly (Defra/DECC).
related to chemicals and their potential impacts on the
The Chemicals Group exists to disseminate the latest findings
tion and travel, we have used local emission factors where
• •
environment and human health, to its m ember companies. The chemical guidance developed by the i nitiative helps the
Staff travelling 540 tonne CO2e
members to avoid importing products containing unwanted
Energy consumption 1220 tonne CO2e
substances. Nilorn RSL is based on the Chemicals Guidance provi-
Today almost 80% of waste generated by Nilorn operations
ded by The Textile Importers’
goes to landfill - this is an important area for us to improve.
Association in Sweden and Swerea IVF. Bureau Veritas
In our Swedish office and the new European Distribution
Certification Hong Kong is our
Center in Germany we are using energy from h ydropower.
nominated partner for physical and chemical testing.
RESPONSIBLE USE OF CHEMICALS Nilorn produces a variety of products in many different
materials, at our six production sites. We conduct internal
REACH
chemicals used in production. This is also a prioritised issue
that the REACH regulation and Restricted Substances List
audits which include checking the handling and storage of
All Nilorn partners are required to sign an agreement stating
in the audits conducted at our suppliers’ sites.
are complied with. This is a non-negotiable requirement.
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MICROPLASTICS In recent years there has been large focus on the micro-sized particles of plastics, so called microplastics and the number of negative consequences for humans and the natural environment they have. Protecting the marine environment from the potential impact of microplastics is an important issue. In marine protection, plastic particles with a diameter of less than 5 mm are referred to as microplastics. These can be fragments created by the breaking up of larger pieces of plastic such as packaging or as fibres that are washed out of textiles. Up to 12 million tonnes of plastic, often single-use items including packaging, end up in the sea every year. Improved waste management and recycling schemes are two areas that can help reduce pollution, alongside increased reuse of materials. Because our products are often made of synthetic fibres such as polyester and polypropylene, we are contributing to pollution by plastics as well. There has to be a reduction of the leakage of plastics into our natural systems and at Nilorn we will look at: • Design for sustainability • Reuse of materials • Waste reduction and secure good handling of waste
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Traceability for sustainability With our creative labels we help our clients strengthen their brands and products. They are also an important part in enabling brands and consumers to trace their products back in the supply chain. Eco-labels and other certification schemes are a way in which
our labels are also labelled. At Nilorn we can certify our
along the production chain, making the consumer more
product groups. Here we provide you with the latest
our clients can communicate their focus on responsibility
products, such as labels, buttons, accessories and other
aware about their purchases. It may sound confusing, but
insights into some of these certifications.
bluesign® The bluesign® system puts the whole production chain in focus. It has focus both on the product itself, in terms of sound materials, but also the chain of production, from raw materials to finished products. The certification covers: resource productivity, consumer safety, water emissions, air emissions and occupational health and safety. As of 2013, the Nilorn group is a bluesign® system partner.
of chemicals, the working conditions, environmental impact,
Our production facility in Portugal has been certified since
and water and energy consumption.
2012 and, in 2017, Nilorn East Asia in Hong Kong started the screening process and received the bluesign® certificate for
• Based on the detailed assessment, a report on the findings
At Nilorn, we find the increasing focus on bluesign® to be a
•
join this initiative and choose bluesign® approved products.
system. These measures could include: eliminating the use
textile accessories and the article range printed care labels.
and an action plan with necessary measures are drawn up.
very positive trend and we welcome more of our clients to
Once all necessary measures have been implemented,
the products can be approved according to the bluesign®
of hazardous chemicals, changes in operation, installation of
The assessment of a factory entails the following steps:
air and water cleaning systems, improvement of personnel
• An evaluation of the production site, focusing on the use
safety and an overall improvement in house-keeping.
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“Labels that help the consumer make better choices”
OEKO-TEX® 100 (class 1) The STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® is an independent test and certification system for textile raw, intermediate and end products at all stages of processing. Examples of products that can be certified are yarns, woven and knitted fabrics, accessories (such as buttons and labels) and readymade articles. The OEKO-TEX® tests for harmful substances are
carry out random checks of companies holding OEKO-TEX®
fundamentally based on the respective purpose of the
certificates, in the form of unannounced inspections.
textiles and materials and they cover: legally banned and controlled substances, chemicals known to be harmful to
Nilorn holds an OEKO-TEX® certificate for textile production
for health p rotection. Testing is geared towards how the
factories. We hold certification for product class 1, the highest
health (but not yet legally controlled) and other parameters
and accessories, produced both in our f actories and s uppliers’
textile will actually be used, the more closely the product is
level. Further to the Nilorn OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 Class
in contact with the skin, the stricter the requirements. Class
1 in appendix 4 we and some suppliers have upgraded to
1 is the highest level.
appendix 6 standard for certain products. The difference
between the two appendices is limit values and inclusion of
The OEKO-TEX® Association conducts annual control
chemicals. The appendix 6 c atalogue was created for those
testing of certified products, at a rate of at least 25% of all
who are either participating in the detox campaign or working
certificates issued. It tests articles bearing the OEKO-TEX®
with customers who have this demand on their products and
label that are available in retail shops and also samples of
supply chain. Nilorn is continually working to improve our
materials from factories. In addition, independent auditors
environmental impact and appendix 6 is one of those ways.
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”Adding value to your brand” Recycled Content Standard We are always scouting for new, more sustainable materials for our products. Recycled materials is an important part of our more sustainable offerings. Third party certification of claims of recycled content increases the credibility in the market. At Nilorn we have decided to have recycled materials third
Polyester is the most common synthetic fibre in textile
standard. The standardisation is made by SCS Global
products. The disadvantage of polyester is that it is an
party certified, in accordance with the recycled content
Services. The purpose with the certification is to make claims
of recycled content trustworthy. The SCS Recycled Content Certification evaluates products made from pre-consumer or post-consumer material, coming from waste streams. It
declares the percentage of recycled content for the purpose of making an accurate claim in the marketplace.
We see an increasing interest from our clients to use such
materials and this is an important part in our aim to work with transparency.
Examples of recycled content in Nilorn products are polyester, paper and plastics.
manufacturing and the one we use most for Nilorn’s oil-based material, not from a renewable source. At the same time, the advantage of the oil-based materials is
that it is relatively easy to recycle them and today there is an increased focus on recycled materials to reduce both landfill and littering of oceans.
Polyester has an advantage in that it can be recycled many times. Most of recycled polyester comes from PET bottles, bottles are a clean, easy product to recycle. Using r ecycled materials can be a part of a product liability, but it is of course not only the
choice of materials that affect it. Design, production, waste and transport are all important aspects to consider. Providing recycled materials requires traceability and origin.
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Security and anti-counterfeit Naturally, all the companies we work with are proud of their brands and products and they want to p rotect
them. So we prioritise the security of our clients. We have developed and are now producing a number of successful secure techniques. UV-yarn, UV-printed holographic yarn, holograms, sequential numbering, watermarks, Nilorn secure and radio frequencies are
some examples of methods that can be applied to protect the clients’ products.
FSC FSC stands for ’Forest Stewardship Council’, an international non-profit organisation dedicated to promoting responsible forestry. FSC certifies forests all over the world to ensure they meet the highest environmental and social standards.
Products carrying the FSC label are independently certified to assure consumers that they come from forests that are managed to meet social, economic and ecological needs.
A properly labelled product shall both carry the FSC symbol and the certificate number.
Nilorn products that can carry this label are products produced with the use of paper or forest based textile
fibres. Nilorn aims to continuously increase the
content of FSC certified paper in our products and we are now able to provide it in all sales markets.
I N S I G HT: WO R K I N G AT N I LO R N D ES I G N D E PARTM E NT
“I find inspiration everywhere. It can be a film, a personality or a piece
“I’m a mother. A wife. An Art Director. A daughter. A friend. And my
inspiring as it makes ideas grow” says Christina Walter.
all of them it is about finding the right balance and about learning as you go
of music that puts me in a special mood. Talking to people is also highly
interest for a more sustainable way of life comes into all those roles. And in along”, says Marie Huber.
Christina has worked as a designer for Nilorn in Germany since 2014 and works on our collections and concepts. “I have high hopes for the future.
It all started with a school visit to Nilorn while studying textile
where safe materials - natural or synthetic - are intelligently cycled and
suit me perfectly” says Marie. She started as an intern at Nilorn in 2001
I believe in a circular economy based on the cradle to cradle concept
purchasing and management. “I felt that their design department would and now holds the position as one of our Art Directors.
manufactured in ways that positively impact p eople and planet”.
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I N S I G HT: WO R K I N G AT N I LO R N D ES I G N D E PARTM E NT
It’s not just a trend, it is the future We aim to always discuss the implications on sustainability that a choice of materials has, in the dialogue we have with our clients. It is here, in the idea and design phase, that Nilorn can play an important role, that has effects along the whole life cycle of our products. We want to be in the forefront, scouting for new interesting materials and solutions, because we see this as a really important part of our long term success as a supplier. So the knowledge and innovative skills of our design team is of course a very important success factor for Nilorn. Read some more here about how we work with more sustainable materials at Nilorn and get some direct insights from some of our design team members. A GROWING INTEREST FROM OUR CUSTOMERS “Over the years the interest from customers for more
“Even if the customer makes another final choice, we aim
sustainable materials has had its ups and downs. But this time
to give them a more sustainable option to start with. In that
round I really feel that it is different. The customers are more
way we hope the client keeps the sustainable offer in mind.
knowledgeable about their alternatives and are prepared
And next time they see it as an option for them to change”
to choose a sometimes more costly, but more sustainable
Christina explains.
alternative” Marie explains. “We see an increasing interest
in FSC certified paper products, in recycled polyesters and
THE WHOLE CHAIN NEEDS TO LIVE UP TO OUR STANDARDS
also other alternatives to traditional plastic materials. We
Of course there are also challenges when it comes to choosing
also see customers that are making a complete turnaround,
new materials. It often means changes in our supply chain,
setting targets to have all their labels and trims in sustainable
which in turn requires of us to update risk assessments and
materials within just a few years”.
audit these new suppliers. Transparency is a key issue for us
and therefore we need to ensure that we have those things in
Sustainable materials are definitely a growing market for
order before we sell the product to our clients.
Nilorn. In Germany there has been a strong focus on this from Outdoor brands, but we now see that an increasing number
“It is also easier for us to find alternative materials and new
of fashion companies are asking for these products. “It has
concepts and the suppliers are getting better at delivering on
gone from “nice to have” to being a better choice in the minds
time, with quality and trustworthiness. It is still sometimes
of our clients” says Christina. “I just learned that our recycled
challenging and of course you wish
polybag is one of our bestselling products” she continues.
that it would go even faster. But this is not just a trend, it is the
The range of materials that we can work with is increasing.
future and we will continue to
Recycled materials like polyester, cotton and leathers, just to
be in the forefront and propose
mention a few, and natural fabrics like bamboo and hemp.
new solutions for our clients”,
There are also high-tech fibres made from vegetable fibres or
Marie concludes.
oils. “We have to keep an open mind to future technologies and materials” says Christina.
“Our sustainable design collections have been seen very positively by our clients”
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Our production and logistics Nilorn is strategically located in major manufacturing countries around the world, enabling shorter delivery times, lower freight costs and reduced environmental impact. The majority of our production is through external suppliers as it allows us to be flexible and adapt to our clients’ locations. Our own production is an important complement. With this combined approach, we can ensure timely deliveries and high quality. PRODUCTION Of our total purchasing value in 2017, 80% was sourced in
to save time for our clients. When a production order is
Hong Kong, China and India. Most of our European sourcing
a request from the client’s system in a fully automated
sent to the manufacturer, Nilorn simultaneously receives
Asia and 20% in Europe. Sourcing in Asia mainly comes from
process and, depending on location and stock levels, most
is from Turkey and Italy. As a complement to the sourcing
orders are handled within 48 hours.
activity, Nilorn’s own production facilities represented approx. 10-15% of the group turnover in 2017.
The Nilorn Web Solution provides a complete overview of orders, warehousing and distribution, allowing both the
NILORN HAS ITS OWN PRODUCTION SITES IN:
client and manufacturer to order labels and check/control
• Bangladesh
the delivery. The web order system is available in several
• Germany
languages and offers a comprehensive set of follow-up and
• Hong Kong
report generating options. We have warehouses in Dhaka,
• Portugal
Hilden, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Karachi, Keighley, New
• Turkey
Delhi, Recarei and Shanghai.
• England LOGISTICS The development of the fashion industry requires that
In December 2017, the new Nilorn Distribution Centre started its
Nilorn is represented in many parts of the world, t hrough
operation in Hilden, Germany. The DC will start to serve the Belgian,
their own companies and a network of strategic partners.
German, Swedish and Swiss market. Total area is 1700m2 and 10
The Nilorn Auto Order System provides control and aims
employees. The energy used is 100 % from hydropower.
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LOGISTIC FOCUS • Reliability • Efficiency • Cost effectiveness • Worldwide distribution • Short delivery times
At our production site in Hong Kong we produce printed textile and paper labels. The factory is bluesign® and OEKO-TEX® certified. There are 111 employees.
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I N S I G HT: D HAKA FACTO RY
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I N S I G HT: O U R FACTO RY I N BAN G LAD ES H
Dhaka factory For a long time, the garment and textile industry in Bangladesh has been of high importance for the supply of apparel all around the world. Considering this, it is natural that Nilorn now has an office and factory in this area. Many of Nilorn’s clients produce their goods in Bangladesh and it is much easier for all parties concerned if the production of labels, hangtags and such are just a hop and a skip away from the garment making - instead of on the other side of the world. With Nilorn’s own production in Bangladesh, time will be saved and we will have a smoother and more efficient operation. It is a sound investment for Nilorn to have a factory and
panel installed and all lighting is low energy. The factory
work and the development of production in this region.
water and there is water meter installed. Waste handling is
be present in Bangladesh. We can more easily influence the
has an Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) for production waste
The factory is a state-of-the-art facility when it comes to
a challenge in Dhaka, the factory is sorting waste and it’s
machinery and conditions for the workers - something that
taken care of by a waste handler. During 2018, we will work
will have a positive effect for all of Nilorn’s stakeholders.
on reducing waste and also search for end-of-life alternatives The environmental work is an on-going process to better the
Since starting up production in 2017, internal policies, pro-
situation for both employees, products and environment.
cedures and responsible practices, including sustainability
and compliance, have been in focus. Nilorn is committed to
NILORN BANGLADESH DHAKA FACTORY
creating a healthy and productive working environment,and
• STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®, class 1
for this, further training will an important part. Energy
• FSC Chain of Custody Certification
consumption and minimum wastage in the manufacturing
• Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit (SMETA)
of products are other areas in focus. There is a small solar
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Working with our supply chain New suppliers to Nilorn are to be reviewed by the CSR department. The first assessment includes looking at social audits that the factory may have been subjected to previously, as well as other areas such as their production capacity and quality of products. A supplier is preferably visited prior to production. We do our own inspections in combination with relying
supply base by a further 30 suppliers. It is important for us
initiatives. ISO 9001, ISO 14001 and OHSAS 18001 are also
visibility, improved communication and buying power.
on third party audits, through BSCI, SEDEX and other
to continue reducing our supply chain for greater control,
certification schemes used among suppliers, which we take into c onsideration when choosing a supplier.
We seek to continue working with reliable, reputable,
Most importantly we focus on having a very close dialogue
reducing our supply chain we also build on the relationships
environmentally and socially conscious suppliers. Whilst
and frequent meetings with all prioritised suppliers.
we hold with suppliers, some of which have been over 20 years. A stronger relationship equals a better partner.
Reduce to increase has been one focus for supply chain
management in 2017. An analysis was done after the result
SEDEX
our supplier base by around 50. The reason for this reduction
profit membership organisation dedicated to driving
of the supplier evaluation in 2016 and in total we reduced
Sedex, the Supplier Ethical Data Exchange, is a not-for-
was to increase our efficiency in the management of suppliers
improvements in responsible and ethical business practices
and part of our strategy of working closer with the chosen
in global supply chains. Sedex is an online database, used
suppliers. We are pleased to see that in 2017 the production
by more than 50,000 members in over 150 countries, which
with those suppliers has moved to others in the approved list.
allows companies to store and view data on ethical and responsible business practices. Sedex does not set any
For 2017, we conducted the same review, this time extending
standards or determine the policy of its members.
to group companies outside China. The results were again collected and the list reviewed. In 2018, we will reduce our
Sedex provides a place to store any and all ethical a udit
reports, with a summary of non-compliances held in a
common format. However, Sedex has created the Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit (SMETA) – a common audit
methodology and report format aiming to drive consistency
WHAT HAPPENS DURING A SMETA AUDIT?
of data from the auditing process. The audit checks
The normal process for a SMETA audit would follow these steps:
specifically against the ETI base code and how it is spread
1. Self-Assessment Questionnaire (SAQ) and Pre-Audit Site Profile
to employees and the supply chain, relevant local laws,
2. Audit preparation and quotation to the site
environmental performance, subcontractors/home workers,
3. Actual site visit and audit
eligbility to work and understanding of the ETI base code.
a. Opening meeting with senior management
b. Site tour
c. Document review
d. Worker interviews
e. Closing meeting with senior management 4. Issuing of the the SMETA report and CAPR (Corrective Action Plan Report) 5. Loading up the SMETA / CAPR reports to the SEDEX data base 6. Follow up audits if required within 3-6 months time frames
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TH E S E D E X G LOBAL PLATF OR M is an online database which allows members to store, share and report information in four key areas:
LABOUR STANDARDS
HEALTH & SAFETY
ENVIRONMENT
BUSINESS ETHICS
AT NILORN, WE ARE AUDITED AGAINST SEDEX/SMETA IN OUR FACTORIES IN BANGLADESH, HONG KONG, PORTUGAL AND TURKEY - MAKING THE RESULTS AVAILABLE FOR ALL SEDEX MEMBERS TO ACCESS.
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Our employees The success of Nilorn is directly linked to the ability to empower and invest in our employees to be ambassadors for our brand. Nilorn aims to be an employer of choice by offering a more
Capacity building and training is arranged locally in each
2017 several Nilorn offices invested in better ergonomics by
Safety training. We see a benefit in setting a structure for
sustainable, caring and safe working environment. During
country, for example First Aid and Occupational Health and
providing foot rests in the desk areas. Some other examples
capacity building across our locations. One area in which
from Nilorn:
we will train and further inform employees is concerning sustainable materials. It is important that our employees feel
• Belgium - focus on energy efficient IT-equipment, all TCO
that they can develop as individuals and in their roles. All
certified, allowing sales staff to work remotely
employees are offered a nnual performance reviews.
• Hong Kong – improved health insurance and increased
Employee headcount increased 24%. This growth is due prin-
dental costs provided
cipally to recruitment in Bangladesh, China and Hong Kong.
• Portugal – renewed cooling system, new floor and soundproofing doors installed all in order to improve working conditions in the production area
DATA
• Sick leave: 3,7%*
• Sweden – with a close cooperation with the local gym
• Number of work related injuries: 4
employees are encouraged to work out, new adjustable sit-stand desks
• UK - recognition of attendance with one extra day holi-
* Absenteeism is tracked locally in accordance with regulations applicable in the different countries where Nilorn operates. The Company does not have a harmonised system for managing absenteeism throughout its subsidiaries.
day for 100% attendance. Access to a telephone helpline for health issues is provided
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GENDER DISTRIBUTION
Number of employees: 444
ALL EMPLOYEES
WOMEN 47%
MEN 53%
MANAGEMENT
WOMEN 14%
MEN 86%
BOARD
WOMEN 50%
MEN 50%
Employees - per country WOMEN
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MEN
MR SIMON LEPPICH:
”It was a fantastic experience to meet and learn from the farmers what sustainable cotton growing means”
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Social engagement There is a focus on a more sustainable production of materials for the garment industry. Cotton is one of the resources where there are many challenges to overcome. To ensure supply, we must work together to train and help cotton producers make the transition from traditional cultivation methods to more sustainable practices. This is precisely what the “Cotton made in Africa” (CmiA) initiative does. CmiA is an Aid by Trade Foundation initiative that was established in 2005.
textile value chain from cultivation of cotton to textiles
Its objective is to help smallholder
made in Africa.”
farmers help themselves through trade and to improve
the social, ecological and economic living conditions
The cotton farmers involved in CmiA work exclusively
Sub-Saharan Africa.
important requirements for improving the living condi-
of smallholder cotton producers and their families in
in smallholder structures. Education is one of the most
tions of African cotton farmers and combating causes of
To put this aim into practice, an alliance of international
migration. Therefore, CmiA puts a focus on training the
textile companies built up by CmiA buys the sustainably
participating cotton farmers in business and agriculture. The
grown cotton, integrates it into its textile value chains
farmer trainings established by CmiA support the farmers
and pays a license fee to the foundation. Today there are
in implementing the CmiA sustainability criteria. In the
more than 30 brands and retailers participating in CmiA.
so-called farmer business schools participants learn a great
More than one million smallholder farmers (of which
deal about efficient and sustainable farming methods. As a
17% are female farmers) and some 11,000 factory workers
consequence, it enables them to increase yields and thereby
in the s o-called cotton ginneries are currently part of the
income. The CmiA-trainings not only convey knowledge
CmiA p rogram. CmiA is active in Cameroon, Burkina
about how to manage a cotton farm more economically and
Faso, E thiopia, Ghana, Ivory Coast, Mozambique, Zambia,
more environmentally friendly, but also raise awareness
Tanzania and Uganda.
among the rural population for topics such as child labour. The participating smallholder farmers gain an understan-
In October 2017, a group of CmiA retailers, brands and part-
ding about why their children should go to school instead of
ners traveled to Uganda to meet cotton farmers in the CmiA
doing demanding work on the farm
growing regions of Uganda. The group met African cotton
that is harmful for them. They learn
farmers, learned from them how to grow sustainable cotton,
that good schooling helps the en-
listened to a female farmers group who presented projects
tire family in the long run.
they initiated as a group and observed how the cotton is
ginned and processed to textiles. One of the participants was
Nilorn is a partner of CmiA and
Nilorn Germany’s Managing Director Mr Simon Leppich.
we provide all standard CmiA hangtags and woven labels.
Simon says: ”It was a fantastic experience to meet and learn
from the farmers what sustainable cotton growing means
Read more at:
and that we, during our visit to Uganda, could follow the
www.cottonmadeinafrica.org
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The Swedish Textile Importers Association The Swedish Textile Importers association is a valuable
Teko
resource for us at Nilorn. Through them, we m onitor the
latest developments in trade policy issues. They provide importers of textiles with industry-specific service, helping
us to keep track of everything that may be important to the
TEKO is the Swedish trade and employers’ association for
business, such as customs duties, rules of origin, free trade
companies working in the textile and fashion industry. They
agreements and CSR. Nilorn has been a member since 2004
represent the sector, both nationally and internationally,
and our Sustainability Manager has been a board member
in all questions of common interest and inform clients,
since 2017.
suppliers, media, the public and the government about the
Swedish textile and clothing industry, its companies and its products. An important task is to supply information and
service to the member companies. TEKO is also the national
Stakeholders
member for Sweden to GINETEX – the International
Association for Care Labelling. Nilorn has been a member since 2017.
We know that our daily operations have effects on others
in our surroundings. We aim to prioritise dialogue with different stakeholders as this is an instructive for us, to listen and to learn from others and it is necessary to allow all groups to cooperate for a more sustainable industry.
STAKEHOLDER GROUP
MEANS TO COMMUNICATE ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY
PRIORITISED AREAS
CUSTOMERS
Dialogue, meetings, magazine
IT-solutions, Code of Conduct, sustainable materials
EMPLOYEES
Meetings, training, Intranet
Sustainable materials, eco-labelling
INVESTORS
Reporting, meetings
Business ethics, reporting
SUPPLIERS
Meetings, fairs, events
Business relationship, buying process
NGOs
Initiatives, conferences
Raw material, labour, wages
INDUSTRY
Memberships, working groups
Chemicals, trade, social compliance
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Sustainability risks Nilorn’s risk management approach follows our decentralised structure and the same applies to our sustainability risks. All managers at Nilorn with operational responsibilities are expected to ensure that risks associated with their operations are appropriately identified, evaluated and managed.
RISK CATEGORY
RISK DESCRIPTION
RISK CONSEQUENCES
RISK MITIGATION
COMPLIANCE
Risks that legal and regulatory requirements are not met.
Negative reputational and/or financial impact.
Nilorn has a group governance framework and compliance, including anti-bribery and corruption policy. Increase training. Establish appropriate procedures, monitoring and reporting to prevent violation of laws, corruption or handling of personal data. 3rd party social audit at own production units.
HEALTH & SAFETY
Injuries or work related sickness at Nilorn own production sites or at supplier sites.
Fatal accidents, serious injuries or long-term absenteeism at production sites. Risk of legal and financial conseqences if OHS has been managed poorly. Risk that employees find the work environment unsatisfactory, resulting in difficulties to retain and recruit. Reputational risk if poor safety conditions exist in the company, resulting in damage to our brand.
3rd party social audit at Nilorn production units. Own and 3rd party audits of suppliers. Continue to build a common H&S culture and effective management systems.
ENVIRONMENT
Managing increased demand of more environmentally conscious products by our clients. Increased demand to understand climate change effect on both internal and external operations.
Risk of losing clients. Not being able to meet clients’ expectations in our operations and/or products with regards to environmental performance and new materials. Risk of problems with supply due to climate related incidents.
Focus on improved efficiency to minimise environmental impact in our own operations and in supply chain, bluesign certification being one method. Keep high awareness of new regulations and market demands.
SUPPLY CHAIN
Risk of suppliers not complying with the Supplier Code of Conduct and not following national laws and regulations.
Negative reputation and risk that we do not live up to the requirements of our clients. Delays in delivery and increased costs.
Continue to build strong supplier relationships. Increase awareness of Code of Conduct, environmental requirements and other policies. Own and 3rd party audits of suppliers.
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Our way forward “2018 will be the year when we, in a much clearer way, will link our sustainability work and ambitions to the UN Sustainable Development Goals – not only in our own work with our values, policies, procedures and measurements, but most importantly also in the ongoing dialogue with our clients, where we will continue to help them make even better choices”. Anna-Karin Wårfors, Sustainability Manager.
IN 2018 WE WILL FOCUS ON: • Group FSC certificate • More recycled materials and RCS (Recycled Content Standard) certificates
• Implementing updated Code of Conduct and Supplier Handbook in supply chain
• Aligning chemical and physical testing routines in Nilorn companies
• Improving reporting of sustainability data
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PRODUCTS IN MORE SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS Respekt is a highlight of our work to develop products with lower Âenvironmental impact. It shows the ongoing process to a more sustainable offer, from design to delivery. The RESPEKT concept features, Âenvironmental finishings and various materials such as bamboo, vegetable tanned leather and FSC paper, along with recycled materials. All articles comply with REACH regulations or meet higher environmental standards. 41
Headquarters NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWE DE N Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com
Subsidiaries & partners NILÖRN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWE DE N Tel: +46 33 700 88 00 Fax:+46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24 CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZ E R LAN D Tel: +41 62 855 27 50 Fax: +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. Millennium Castle, 12th fl. House 47, Road 27 Block A, Banani Dhaka -1213 BANG LADESH Tel: +88 02 8835912 Fax: +88 02 8835913 info@bd.nilorn.com NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle B E LG I U M Tel: +32 9 210 40 90 info@be.nilorn.com NILORN DENMARK A/S Kongensgade 31B 5000 Odense C DE N MAR K Tel: +45 70 23 16 23 info@dk.nilorn.com NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/ F, Westley Square 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong Kowloon HONG KONG Tel: +852 2 371 2218 Fax: +852 2 371 2629 info@hk.nilorn.com
NILORN GERMANY GMBH Itterpark 7 40724 Hilden G E R MANY Tel:. +49 2103 908 16 0 Fax: +49 2103 908 16 99 info@de.nilorn.com NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD 6233, 3rd Floor, Block no. 6, Dev Nagar, Karol Bagh, New Delhi - 110005 I N DIA Tel. +91 11 2575 2675 Fax +91 11 2576 0230 info@in.nilorn.com NILORN ITALY Via del Bramante 34 41012 Carpi (MO) ITALY Tel: +39 3381611351 info@it.nilorn.com NILORN PAKISTAN (PVT) LTD 2nd Floor, Yasir Chambers Gulshan –E-Iqbal, Block 13A Main University Road P.O. Box 75300 Karachi PAKISTAN Tel: +92 21 349 92151 Fax:+92 21 349 92153 info@pk.nilorn.com NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel: +351 22 411 95 80 Fax: +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com
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NILORN SHANGHAI LIMITED Rm 701, 288, Chengjiaqiao Road. Minhang District, Shanghai, CH I NA Poastal Code 201103 Tel: +86 21 345 512 90 info@sh.nilorn.com NILORN TURKEY Bağlar Mahallesi 49 Sokak No: 50 K:3 Bağcılar Istanbul TU R KEY Tel: +90 212 657 76 76 (pbx). Fax: +90 212 657 75 10 info@tr.nilorn.com NILORN UK LTD 1A Acre Park Dalton Lane Keighley West Yorkshire B D21 4J H U N ITE D KI NG DOM Tel: +44 1535 673 500 info@uk.nilorn.com NILORN USA LLC 3499 Meier Street Los Angeles, CA 90066 U N ITE D STATES Tel: +1 888 315 1875 info@us.nilorn.com
Cover photo: By Annie Spratt on Unsplash Production: Nilorn in cooperation with TomorrowToday Paper: Edixion Printing: Responstryck
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