BRANDING & design (Fashion magazine)

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�reative O�ice �an Fransisc� A guide to the

ALSO: Hella Jongerius / Make your day at work a lot more stylish and fun / Artisan Chocolate

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PAPER: Cover: Cocoon Offset 250 gsm. Body: Gallery Art Silk 170 gsm. Printed at Responstryck AB, Borås, Sweden.

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�ontent� Branding & Design

16 Focus: Nine to Five

2/2011: 4 Foreword

Things to make your day at work a lot more stylish and fun.

18 Artisan Chocolate

6 Branding, Not A Brand New Thing!

The Mast Brothers Chocolate Factory.

21 Nilorn Product Development

Chronicle by Henrik Mattson.

8 Anton's Got His Success In A Bag

New collections.

36 San Francisco

Interview with Anton Sandqvist.

10 Hella Jongerius

Challenge your senses and your leg muscles in a city which leaves no one unaffected.

A portrait of the queen of design.

43 We Like...

12 Creative Office

News, trends and inspiration from the world of design.

Optimize your work space.

Nilorn Worldwide is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands using branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion and ready-to-wear industry.

Nilorn Worldwide offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic solutions.

Satisfied customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore important to establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through first-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is one of the leading European players, with turnover of over SEK 300 m. The group operates through its own companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Hong Kong, India and Turkey. In addition, there are partner companies in Switzerland, India, Bangladesh, Tunisia, Romania and China. www.nilorn.com

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FOREWORD HEADQUARTERS NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com

Dear friends, We take great pleasure in releasing the 2nd edition of Nilorn Branding and Design Magazine for 2011!

The most important focus for Nilorn is to provide the highest quality of attention and detail in everything we do. Our mission is to ensure we provide a product and service better than what the customer is expecting. From there we strive to create long-term customer relationships on which our satisfaction and trust can create a mark seen around the world.

After a very exciting and eventful year, we now look towards the year-end with Christmas and New Years celebrations ahead! It has been a year of great turmoil, both with regard to market developments and financial turbulence in several European countries. No doubt, the market conditions will continue to demand more from all companies and brands in order to for them to continue their success. Branding is (and will continue to be) an area where continuous development is needed. As more products become similar, brands must "stand out" above the rest to be different, winning trust and respect. Branding is actually nothing mysterious.

In many cases it is simply a declaration of who you are and what you offer.

In this edition have we mixed interviews and articles from successful designers and companies to inspire you and fuel new approaches and ideas.

We have also presented some of our latest “ branding developments” from the Nilorn Design team which we hope may inspire your next collections.

We hope you find our magazine insightful. Enjoy!

Claes af Wetterstedt CEO

The Nilorn Group is an design in the form of labels, stry. The Nilorn Group offers solutions. Satisfied customers relations through first-class m. The Group operates through Kong, China, India and Turkey.

China.

subsidiarIES & PARTNERS NILÖRN AB Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 00 Fax +46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24, CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel. +41 62 855 27 50 Fax +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. Millennium Castle,12th fl.

House 47, Road 27, Block A, Banani Dhaka -1213 BANGLADESH Tel. +88 02 8835912 Fax +8835913 info@bd.nilorn.com NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle BELGIUM Tel. +32 9 210 40 90 Fax +32 9 252 55 73 info@be.nilorn.com NILORN DENMARK A/S Vestergade 48, 5000 Odense C, DENMARK Tel. +45 70 23 16 23 Fax +45 66 13 48 31 info@dk.nilorn.com

NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD Plot no. 9c, Sector – 3 Parwanoo – 173220 (HP) INDIA Tel. +91 1792 235232 Fax +91 1792 233176 info@in.nilorn.com NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel. +351 22 411 95 80 Fax: +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com NILORN SHANGHAI Cheng Jia Qiao Rd. 238 CN-201103 Shanghai CHINA Tel. +86-21-55348268 Fax +86-21-64019750 info@sh.nilorn.com NILORN TURKEY Nilorn Turkey Mimar Sinan Cad. Ünverdi Sok. No:50.

Kat:3. 34540 Günesli Istanbul TURKEY Tel. +90 212 657 76 76 (pbx).

Fax +90 212 657 75 10 info@tr.nilorn.com

NILORN UK LTD Acre Park Dalton Lane, Keighley West Yorkshire BD21 4JH UNITED KINGDOM Tel. +44 1535 673 500 Fax +44 1535 673 519 NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square info@uk.nilorn.com 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong NILORN UK LTD Kowloon Office No 259 HONG KONG Berkeley Square House Tel. +852 2 371 2218 Berkeley Square Fax +852 2 371 2629 London info@hk.nilorn.com W1J 6BD UNITED KINGDOM NILORN GERMANY GMBH Tel. +44 207 887 7610 Postfach 110 + 120 info@uk.nilorn.com Blücherstraße 72 - 74 international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands using branding and Schwelm packaging and accessories.58332 Customers principally represent the fashion and ready-to-wear induGERMANY complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic +49 2336 403-0 to establish, maintain and enhance customer are our principal asset, andTel. it is therefore important +49 403-20 service. The Nilorn Group Fax is one of the2336 leading European players, with turnover of over SEK 300 info@de.nilorn.com its own companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Hong In addition, there are partner companies in Switzerland, India, Bangladesh, Tunisia, Romania and

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I don’t wear a label, I AM the label.

★ www.iam-lifestore.com ★ info@iam.eu ★ www.iam.eu

CHRONICLE WORDS: Henrik Mattson

Branding, Not A Brand New Thing!

HENRIK MATTSON has been a trend analyst for nearly 30 years. His job is to interpret signs of the time, especially for companies who want to be the first with the latest.

Today everything and everyone is a brand, opposite directions at the same time with brands so whether we like it or not, that’s simply the reality. that we achieve the best result or are perceived in Obviously branding is becoming more and more the best possible way. important in a world where products are becoming Branding has grown from what used to be merely more similar, and the easiest way to distinguish labelling in the form of wrapping paper, hangtags yourself from others is to work with a brand and boxes to the sales staff’s clothing and and let consumers know what you want the shop itself - even to the building them to think about you. where the shop is situated. So where A brand or branding is nothing does branding stop? Probably strange, simply a declaration of in our minds as it seems to be what you offer and what you are; growing from being practical to it’s a kind of identification or ID visionary. card. Branding is becoming more DEFINING YOUR BRAND practical and is leaving behind This is more difficult than you the image of being mysterious think. Whichever route you decide or hocus-pocus, now it’s all about HENRIK MATTSON to take, you have to be willing to deusing reality to be something more cide who and what you are and be strict and to be seen. in putting your decision into effect. AuthenWe use a wide range of different tools tic, technological or human are different ways of when working with branding today, and the metstarting the definition, and then you just narrow it hods are more subtle but also more complex. The fudown further and further until you hopefully end ture is very varied when it comes to branding –you up with a crystal clear idea of who and what you can either be secretive or extremely open in order are. This is rather like going to therapy, but in this to gain the best result, so if you can’t hide it, flaunt case it’s all about finding the positive aspect and it and vice versa. Today we are prepared to work in

»You create your vision of who you are and want to be. Defining is deciding.«

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CHRONICLE

building from there. You create your vision of who you are and want to be. Defining is deciding.

becomes obvious and easy. This means explaining more and always saying why. Dialogue is extremely important, so debate and communicate.

BUILD YOUR BRAND

This means concentrating on you and forgetting about colleagues and competitors. Whatever you do will probably be successful and rewarding, even the bad or strange things you do. This means action and doing more than simply reflecting, which you presumably did when you defined your brand.

Finding new ways to trick and tease is important, as is crossing boundaries and challenging yourself, not just your customers. Being consistent and doing what you say you will is important. You have to be reliable and deliver what you promised. Build by being bold.

RESPECT YOUR BRAND

As branding is becoming more and more important, you have to show integrity and work on a deeper level with your brand, it’s like your inner soul.

Consumers like to see brands as relatives they can relate to, so adopting an educational approach and making this relationship a close one is crucial. If you brand perfectly you make it easier for your customers and creating pleasant moments and choices

PROTECT YOUR BRAND

Be prepared to think in the long term and integrate trends like sustainability and retro, everything that can make the consumer feel safe should be used.

Recognizing something you have already seen is just as important as experiencing something completely new. Be politically correct and erase negativity.

Long-lasting love affairs are better than quick and dirty one-night stands. Be careful and step slowly into the future. Synchronise yourself with all trends, have an open mind towards change and be prepared to do good in a global sense.

Don’t be ashamed of telling people who you are and who you want to be in all kinds of ways and situations. Branding is like a beautifully designed business card. Branding is really all about daring to be human and starting to relate and communicate, and expressing humanity. If today is technological, tomorrow will be more like science fiction, and branding will of course follow the same route and expand into space.

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»We are living in a world that has an even lower level of reality than the unreal world« HARUKI MURAKAMI

INTERVIEW WORDS: Henrik Lindén

ANTON'S GOT HIS

�UCCESS IN A BAG Thanks to the Swedish firm Sandqvist, the range of attractive bags for men has got much wider. It all started when Anton couldn’t find a nice bag for his laptop. Today, the company produces everything from roomy weekend bags to iPhone cases. Stylish, functional and with a hint of retro. We met Anton Sandqvist, founder and partner in Sandqvist.

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INTERVIEW

»I like the practicality of a backpack, since it leaves the hands free and you don’t look too formally dressed.«

Where do you find inspiration?

– Among people around us, and in the Swedish countryside, as well as from art and fashion, of course.

Who are you?

– I’m just a guy from the sticks who ended up in Stockholm and became a bag designer. All three partners in Sandqvist come from Glanshammar, a small village out in the country, where we grew up with a youth club in a portacabin, souped-up old bangers and mopeds, barn dances and everything else that is the rural Sweden.

I took a degree in engineering (my dad’s choice), but tired of a career in the electronics industry after a few years. I started making bags by accident, and discovered that I really enjoyed it and that there was a real gap in the market for attractive bags for men, so I changed direction.

Describe the brand in three words.

–Simple, durable, stylish and functional.

Was that three?

Where do you find inspiration?

– Among people around us, and in the Swedish countryside, as well as from art and fashion, of course.

What makes a really good bag?

–A really good bag is one you want to use every day and don’t get tired of.

Do you have a dream partnership?

–It would be great to work in partnership with Henrik Vibskov. And HM, of course – then we’d really know we’d made it.

What is your typical working day?

– Oh, it’s difficult to say. Lots of phone calls and admin, and a stream of fast decisions on how different things should be done. And some kind of creative element.

There certainly isn’t much time wasted surfing the net. At 16.00, it’s time to dash off to the kindergarten.

Do you have a particular favourite products in the range? If so, why?

– I use the Roald backpack myself. I like the practicality of a backpack, since it leaves the hands free and you don’t look too formally dressed. I also like the new 9

Christian tote bag in brown leather, simply because it looks great.

Do you have any advice for those who want a change of career?

–Don’t rush things, built up your company over a period of time. I worked part time for quite some time, and it was great to have an income while the company got going. And, above all, make sure that what you make is financially viable.

What do you prefer to do on a day off?

–Hang out with friends and family. Or work on one of my old vehicles. Read books. Drink beer and spend time in the sauna. l

5 FACTS: Travel destinations: Calcutta and Hede Food: Great hotdogs Music: Blind Boy Fuller Like: My wife, Anna Dislike: Stress

PORTRAIT WORDS: Henrik Lindén

�ELLA �ONGERIUS Boundary-smashing design with polarizing impact. Hella Jongerius splits design critics into two camps.

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Hella Jongerius (1963) was born mark. She also has a talent for adding in De Meeren, in the Netherlands, and an emotional layer to an otherwise studied at the Eindhoven Design Acaaustere, mass-produced product. demy from 1988-1993. Her career took Jongerius says that a starting point for off when she caught the public eye as her work is to try to create products a member of the famous Dutch design which people like so much that they group, Droog Design. save up to buy them, keep them for Hella’s significance to contemporathe rest of their lives and then pass ry industrial design cannot be overthem on to the next generation. This stated, and her achievements put her philosophy also reflects Jongerius’ in the same league as female design views on ecology and sustainability. icons such as Charlotte Perriand and As well as the success of her own Eileen Gray. Hella company, Jongerius »She prefers her de- can look back at a Jongerius’ unique designs are a daring signs to carry traces number of sucfusion of manufaccessful partnerships of the production turing and craft, the famous manuprocess, and this has with contemporary and facturers, including become something of Vitra, IKEA and the traditional, of a hallmark.« low-tech and highBelux. Another tech materials. She fruitful collaborahas also become well known for her tion was with Porzellan Manufaktur determined and controversial views.

Nymphenburg, one of the world’s And many of her products certainly oldest and most highly-respected suggest a subtle and charming rebelporcelain manufacturers. The factory liousness. opened in 1747, and can look back on In 2000, Jongerius started her own a history of uninterrupted porcelain company, JongeriusLab, in Rottermanufacture spanning 250 years. dam, from where she has continued The factory produces porcelain of the to create a highly unique collection of highest standard, both with respect to products, including ceramics, textiles, quality and craftsmanship. porcelain and furniture.

The partnership with NymphenShe prefers her designs to carry burg resulted in luxurious but slightly traces of the production process, and untamed bowls and plates in sumpthis has become something of a halltuous designs. The collection was

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PORTRAIT

1. For Kettal Hella Jongerius designed a club garden

set named BOB, a reinterpretation of the typical

garden club chair.

2. Ikea PS Jonsberg, Stoneware Vase.

3. Blossom lamp for Belux. The lamp combines

industrial knowledge and handcrafted characteristics.

4. Plate from the collection Nymphenburg Sketches.

5. Polder Sofa for Vitra.

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named ”Nymphenburg Sketches”.

The design process was typical of Jongerius’ approach. She was given access to the company’s extensive archives, full of models and figurines, to the pattern books and the expertise of the company’s employees. Once she’d discovered the historical forms, she broke them down, and then reassembled them in new contexts and combinations. The different parts of the set are all uniquely hand-painted, but still form part of the general production. The plates are decorated with exquisite images, such as flowers and butterflies. These images are combined with markings and colour swatches, in a tribute to the secret processes behind Nymphenburg’s otherwise perfect products.

Jongerius’ personal and unique style, with its multiple ingredients, continues to develop. Her expression has gone from being pared-down and sober to increasingly decorated and colourful. But it is very doubtful that we will ever see Jongerius toe the line and design products which are easily compartmentalised. l

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CREATIVE OFFICE

Optimize your work space. A guide to the

�REATIVE OFFICE The design of the table, the colour of the wall, the tone of the lighting – can these things affect your creativity in the office? Alexandra Moore, interior designer and researcher, has looked at the link between design and how people feel and perform at work. Her answer to the question is an unequivocal YES!

WORDS: Sofia Brax

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CREATIVE OFFICE

© Fritz Hansen

© Fritz Hansen

sometimes, it is necessary to focus your mind, and this is where cool shades, i.e. blues and greens, are more effective.

ALEXANDRA MOORE

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lexandra’s goal is to develop a modern design philosophy, where architecture and design are used as tools in creating sound and successful workplaces. – I investigate which working-environment design factors affect our wellbeing and energy levels – precisely those things which are needed in creative work.

As part of her research, Alexandra has carried out a case study in an actual workplace. She spent time altering the light, colour, sound and so on at an openplan office floor at Telia. The trial group answered questions relating to both the environment and psychosocial issues before and after the alterations.

– This gave a fairly clear picture of how people felt.

She has also found clear links between wellbeing and the various design factors she used in the trial. But the research is not finished yet, so when Branding & Design asked Alexandra to explain what makes an office creative, she considers not only her findings, but also her experience as an interior designer.

Colour

Colour perception is linked to our autonomous nervous system, which determines whether we feel active or calm. In the warm sector of the colour scale, such as yellow, orange or red, people are more active and communicative.

– For me, the basis for creativity is a group of

people – you can never adopt a systematic approach to creative work when you are on your own.

But sometimes, it is necessary to focus your mind, and this is where cool shades, i.e. blues and greens, are more effective.

– Interior designers are well aware that a colour may be seen very differently depending on the lighting, whether there is daylight and, if so, from what direction.

Naturally, everything depends on the shape and position of the room, and the work carried out there.

– Take advertising or architecture firms, for instance. The predominant interior colour is usually white. This allows you to see the true colour you are working with.

ALEXANDRA MOORE Alexandra Moore is currently working as a SIR/ MSA designer, at her own firm, M.O.R.E Design & Concept. Her research project, ”Designfaktorer för välbefinnande i arbetsmiljön” [The significance of design factors to wellbeing at work] at Luleå University of Technology is not yet completed, since the grants did not cover the final experimental parts. She

Lighting

is, however, in a position

Light affects the hormones which determine whether we are awake or asleep.

– A creative environment always requires good general lighting. But the single most important thing is access to plenty of daylight. Ideally, there should also be some unexpected point light sources – additional focused light which creates moods and effects – as well as an exciting interplay with the colour scheme.

Unlike people around the Mediterranean, people in the Nordic countries do not like fluorescent tubes which cast a blue light. In warmer climates, such

to carry out the necessary

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tests as part of assignments, and the results these generate will benefit her clients directly. Since she is also an economist, Alexandra is keen to demonstrate the financial benefits of a carefully-planned working environment.

CREATIVE OFFICE

I want to show that it is counterproductive to save money on interior design. A L E X A N D R A M O O R E

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light is perceived as refreshing. In the colder, Nordic region, warm lighting is the preferred option.

Design

Our need for a view, something to rest our eyes on, is ranked number one on the list in Alexandra Moore’s study.

– Far and away the preferred option was a view through a window. Everyone agreed this was extremely important.

But colour, art and design features are also important to the feeling of wellbeing.

– Shapes help you see lines, and challenge the imagination. They can also make you come up with new associations. It is all about creativity and instinct. If the shapes are also a little amusing, they help you get started.

Our senses react to shape and scale.

– The brain interprets different shapes in different ways. I like both highly-disciplined and organic shapes, provided that they are in the right place.

By using scale, you can heighten the impression of something you want to draw attention to.

Sound

Sound and noise have a huge impact on the production of stress hormones, blood pressure and health in general.

– An open-plan office has to be a bit noisy; a bit of background noise, music, voices. Not total silence, since this makes people feel more inhibited than open. It is difficult to shout out an idea if the office is utterly silence, and everyone’s staring at you…

Furnishing

Creativity in an office landscape means that noise has to be accepted – it is part and parcel of the creative process. One solution is a separate room or area where creative discussions can take place.

– Preferably a lounge with sofas, or bar-height tables. Ideally, food and refreshments should be av-

ailable – that usually gets people going. Desk-height tables can sometimes be an inhibiting factor. Or you can create a meeting place in the middle of the openplan office where noise is acceptable.

– It looks great if such an area is located in the middle of the office floor. But this means arranging meeting times so that people have the option of going somewhere else.

1. Modular sofa, Dunder

by Blå Station.

2. The Tab with its shade,

Furniture

which can be rotated for

In Alexandra Moore’s view, the furniture chosen must meet high ergonomic and functional standards. But once these criteria are fulfilled, beauty is also important.

– Design plays a major role. Design can be used to affect sensory impressions at a subconscious level.

These impressions are interpreted by the brain and encourage certain forms of behaviour. It is pure environmental psychology.

Depending on the room and the situation, whether you choose a square or round rug, create a straight passageway or a curved one can really matter. The secret is finding stimulating elements and variation.

Lots of different shapes are essential to achieve a great overall feeling.

– If, let’s say, you have a meeting room with chairs set in a circle, square chairs create a more challenging atmosphere. Round chairs creates a feeling of harmony and limitlessness.

the best possible light

In addition to an academic thesis, Alexandra Moore also plans a practical handbook in the art of planning spaces to enhance people’s creativity, commitment and efficiency and, at the same time, make them feel good. Another subject she wants to cover is how this can be achieved in a way which can be quantified financially.

– I want to show that it is counterproductive to save money on interior design. The milieu is vital, particularly in creative professions. l 14

coverage without glare.

Designed by Barber Osgerby for Flos.

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CREATIVE OFFICE

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3. Efficient work regardless of task. Modular furniture with built-in flexibility: add, subtract, change. www. kinnarps.com.

4. Prize-winning light fitting without sharp edges or corners that absorb light. Orosso by Fagerhult.

5. Creative environment all the way to the stairwell. Interior by toy manufacturer BRIO. 6. Meeting room with furniture from Materia.

7. Round chairs create an impression of harmony and limitlessness. The swivelling conference chair

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is part of Materia's Centrum concept.

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FOCUS

Carry on

Stylish bag that takes your laptop and your packed lunch. www.sandqvist.net.

Full c

lip

Write or this fu draw anyw nction here w al, sm ith board oked from oak cl Ferm fermipL iving. living .com. www .

HotCool takes care of the problem of glas-

ses that are too hot or too cold to handle. The neat plastic jacket protects your fingers, and your drink stays at just the right temperature. www.iittala.fi.

NINE TO FIVE

Things to make your day at work a lot more stylish and fun.

Elegant

A4, A5 and A6-sized boxes in woven fabric /cardboard. www.bookbindersdesign.com.

Neat piles

These new stackable, rustic letter trays in smoked oak are perfect for your flying papers. They come in three great colours use them one-by-one or together.

Ferm Living. www.ferm-living.com.

Ride in Style

Ride in style to work on this fast retro-racer from Crescent. www.crescent.se 16

FOCUS

Neat & tidy

with jars from House Doctor.

Cronotime desk clock in ABS. Designed by Pio Manzù for Alessi.

Block Notes

Pack of sticky notes shaped like blocks from the popular game, Tetris. www.suck.uk.com

Classic design Vipp Office Bin - ideal for home and office use.

Stay alert

We're all recommended to drink at least 1.5 litres of water a day to stay healthy. Not a problem with this attractive bottle.

Bobble has an activated carbon filter and is completely recyclable. Available in a wide range of sizes and colours. Designed by Karim Rashid. www.waterbobble.com

Lighten Up

Adjustable arm and head makes it easy to direct the light. Aröd work lamp. www.ikea.com

Brainstorm

Fire ideas at the meeting from the Oppo swivel armchair from Blå Station.

ARTISAN CHOCOLATE WORDS: Henrik LindĂŠn

Employee of Mast Brothers Chocolate inspects cacao beans before roasting them.

small-scale – big taste

Making the perfect chocolate bar is an art known only to a few.

The pioneering Mast Brothers Chocolate Factory in Brooklyn, New York, has invested in small-scale processing of cocoa beans to create the ultimate chocolate experience.

M

ost people are fond of chocolate. Some are happy to buy regular milk chocolate from the supermarket. Others are prepared to pay a little bit more, and have the ability to distinguish the subtle tastes and aromas from the complex ingredients that make up chocolate. A few dedicated people devote their lives to producing the ultimate chocolate bar, working through the entire process from bean to wrapped bar. Some of these maestros are found in

Brooklyn, New York. The brothers Michael and Rick Mast run their factory and shop with the help of friends and family. Theirs is a small-scale operation, run on the conviction that the full potential of the cocoa bean will never be achieved in mass production. Their customers are largely discriminating chocolate connoisseurs and hipsters from the neighbourhood.

Creating the perfect chocolate bar is a complicated process, requiring the finest raw materials. Firstly, you have to find the world’s best cocoa bean. The quality of the 18

bean is crucial to the elegance and flavour of the final product. There are great similarities between wine and chocolate when it comes to identifying vintages and the specific origin of ingredients. Both grapes and beans develop different characteristics depending on geography and climate, and are best experienced in 100% blends.

Mast Brothers is keen to highlight the different properties of individual beans, and produce chocolate using ingredients from a single farm or province. Their labels of origin include a Somia Plantation

A stack of chocolate bars sits on a table before being wrapped.

»If the cocoa bean is treated with care and processed correctly, it should not be necessary to add anything other than cane sugar«

The brothers Michael and Rick Mast.

in Madagascar, La Red de Guaconejo from the northern parts of the Dominican Republic, and ancient plantations on the Caribbean coast of Venezuela. The organicallygrown cocoa is harvested, fermented and finally imported to New York.

Earlier this year, the brothers realised an early dream. They decided to carry out the complete process themselves, and brought home their own beans from growers in the Dominican Republic. They used a 70-foot schooner to ship 20 tons of beans using only wind power. After a two-week sail,

Interior of the store.

the cargo was unloaded in Brooklyn harbour. Once the beans reached the factory, the careful art of turning them into chocolate bars started. The beans were roasted, crushed, separated from their outer husks, ground, rested and tempered. Tempering means that the chocolate was melted and heated to precisely the right temperature, and then left to cool – this process gives the chocolate the correct glossy surface and the characteristic “crack” when the bar is broken. Finally, the chocolate was wrapped by hand in paper designed by 19

family and friends.

If the cocoa bean is treated with care and processed correctly, it should not be necessary to add anything other than cane sugar to produce the perfect chocolate bar. This is in complete contrast to the butter, oil, vanilla, soya, preservatives and emulsifiers added to cheap, mass-produced chocolate bars.

So the next time you pass this way, pop into Mast Brothers and enjoy a genuine cocoa experience in their beautiful and deliciously scented shop. l

New Label Collection Nilorn’s internal product development is an important part of its business. We work continuously to refine design solutions and find new materials and production techniques.

01.

BOXWOOD. Timeless, classic silhouettes blended with retro influences. Great emphasis is placed on accessories, which are sometimes sold through separate outlets.

The typical Boxwood girl is a young woman who is curious about life and is constantly on the outlook for new ways to add a silver lining to her everyday life. She drinks her morning coffee out of a flower-pattern vintage cup, and the jam on the organic sourdough bread she makes

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herself. She’s creative and trend-aware. The base colour of her light and airy apartment is white, but she loves colour and is always on the lookout for colourful lamps, vases and rugs in her local second-hand shops. When she buys clothes, she would rather invest in a single expensive garment than in several cheap ones. Quality and durability are crucial, and she remains faithful to a small number of labels.

INSPIRATION The graphics and patterns of the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s blended with soft, earth tones and designs inspired by the garden.

Unusual and amusing details from interior design and curios.

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The style has a slightly exotic and erotic undercurrent. It’s restrained and modest, yet shows off the contours of the body in all its glory. The woman has an aura of mysticism bathed in glorious colours. She is proud and has great integrity. Key garments include swirling, semi-transparent dresses and kaftans.

02.

AYLIN DEMIZ is inspired by ”A thousand and one nights”, Marrakesh, Turkey and India.

Sheer, semi-transparent fabrics in light and strong colours, with gold and silver accents.

Striking graphic patterns blended with entire fields. Sand and water are two sources of inspiration for both colours and material.

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Linnea Hansen designs clothes for the wellinformed woman. A woman who is looking for an excellent fit, with perfection in material and workmanship. She has a good job and a high income, and loves to invest in beautiful objects, such as jewellery, art and antiques. She believes that it is important to dress well for every occasion throughout her life.

03.

LINNEA HANSEN. Classic reserve blended with handmade rugs and old rococo chairs and chests-ofdrawers. Jewellery made from exclusive materials. The contrast between black and white radiates exclusivity. Linnea Hansen’s home is a haven of simplicity and discernment reflected in colour and objects. The key is quality, not quantity.

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In recent years, dance has seen an incredible upswing. It is more than just a form of exercise – it is a life-style. Inspired by the dance studio as well as the street, the result is fashionable and relaxed, mixed with style to create the perfect look.

Beat has produced a collection aimed at a broad target group in the world of dance. The garments can be used both inside and outside the dance studio.

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BEAT DANCE. Colourful street art has provided inspiration for Beat’s range of dance clothing.

Rough concrete blended with bright colours. The music adds maxed tempo and energy. The key garments are soft and extremely comfortable, with materials such as jersey clearly in evidence throughout the collection. We’re not scared of being highly visible - rather the reverse.

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05.

BEAT GOLF. The modern golfer wants clothing made from high-performance materials which cope with hours of exposure to everything nature can throw - including rain, wind and harsh sunlight.

Beat has developed a collection of the most advanced performance materials to ensure the highest level of comfort during a game of golf. High-performance meets great design.

INSPIRATION Using materials associated with golf in unexpected contexts, we create excitement and a modern touch. With the trend-conscious golf guy and girl firmly in mind, we respond to a pared-down world with technical materials.

The look is just as vital as performance game.

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BEAT TENNIS. Years of tennis tradition blended with modern performance materials make Beat the obvious choice for the tennis court. Modern design reflecting the past heritage creates a wonderful mixture of garments for the style-conscious tennis player looking for garments with a high comfort factor.

INSPIRATION Technical, sporty, trendy, with a hint of traditional design. Sport takes to the catwalk.

A traditional sport takes on a new twist when modern performance materials and modern graphic style are blended with a sense of humour to give ”sporting materials” in unexpected places.

»Modern design reflecting past heritage«

»denim meets workwear – without sentiment«

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WHYTE INDUSTRIES. Sleek, modern urban denim. Where denim meets workwear – without sentiment.

What makes the garments stand out are the unconventional details in an otherwise pared-down look.

WHYTE INDUSTRIES designs clothes which are just as wearable for work as for evenings on the town.

It is a bold combination of rolled-up jeans worn with a suit jacket and a pair of polished boots.

Or unwashed jeans and a figure-hugging leather jacket for that urban look.

INSPIRATION Industrial settings, unprocessed metal, pared-down technical equipment, heavy transport vehicles, workshops, aircraft hangers and airports.

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08.

BERRY RAGS

Modern, unisex children’s clothes, loved by adults and children alike. Berry Rags are garments for children aged 0-12.

The designs are inspired by music, art and street culture. A balanced blend of childish playfulness and adult styling, with the emphasis on durability and comfort makes a very strong impression. It’s not just about being different – it’s about appealing to today’s wellinformed parents.

INSPIRATION Yellow - straight from the colourful world of children, blended with the ”grownup” colour black, to create tension and a strong graphic impression. Soft meets hard. Playful colour and design meets the raw, stark world of adulthood. Sun meets asphalt.

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TRAVEL

�an Francisc� WORDS: Henrik Lindén

San Francisco, the jewel of the West Coast, is a truly innovative and cool city with delightful sea breezes and friendly people who know the art of enjoying life. Challenge your senses and your leg muscles in a city which leaves no one unaffected.

Mention the name San Francisco,

and the first thing many people think of is the Golden Gate Bridge, streetcars, steep hills, earthquakes and Alcatraz. On the other hand, anyone who has actually visited this beautiful city on the Pacific coast will probably remember it for its friendly, relaxed atmosphere. A colourful patchwork of neighbourhoods sprawled out over sunny hillsides, some with wellknown names such as Twin Peaks and Nob Hill. Beautiful parks, charming buil-

dings, dangerously-steep hills, Bohemian districts and large shopping malls make up the second most densely populated city in the USA. San Francisco is a creative city, and the area is the home of many successful companies, of which Apple is the most famous. The locals take a keen interest in environmental issues, and ecology and recycling are virtually the norm in the city.

SF is famous for its open and tolerant views, hippies, stockbrokers, gays and the huge variety of ethnic groups living side 36

USA

NEW YORK SAN FRANCISCO LOS ANGELES

TRAVEL

by side. One of the most iconic is China Town, which houses one of the world’s largest Chinese populations outside China itself. At North Beach, you can sample a small piece of Italy, enjoy Italian cuisine and recharge with a double espresso. You can also visit the cult bookshop, City Lights, which attracts book-lovers from across the country. Castro was originally a workers’ district, but in the 60s, it became a famous centre for the gay community, and now proudly hosts some of the best festivals and carnivals in the city. It also features a host of bars, cafés and fascinating shops.

Shopping

The most popular shopping districts and major department stores are found at Union Square and Market Street. There are global brands galore, and credit cards burn red hot. If you find yourself at Union Square, you must visit Levi’s Store.

For something different, we recommend that you look for the young, innovative shops studded around the city.

You can, for example, start at Haight Street, a slightly run-down area framed by Victorian buildings covered in graffiti, where you find lots of exciting shops and people.

There are many excellent vintage shops along the street. Don’t forget to visit Loyal Army, a real goody-bag of colourful and fun prints. Rvca (pronounced Roo-ca) is a surf brand featuring smartish, stylish casual menswear. Haight Street is the home of one of Goorin Bros’ three stores in SF, selling fantastic, affordable hats for men and women from one of the best-designed shop premises you’ll ever see.

Eventually, Haight Street runs into Hayes Valley, where a wide range of unique and exciting shops have opened in response to the growing number

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TRAVEL

»San Francisco is widely regarded as the food capital of the USA, and many foodies will testify to that.«

of young, trend-conscious people moving to the area. Local designers, premium denim and the occasional vintage shop make the area worth visiting.

Cow Hollow – Fashionable district stretching out below various ”heights” and before you reach San Francisco Bay. Cow Hollow has fantastic street life and an excellent Apple outlet at Chestnut Street. The area also features numerous exclusive ladies’ fashion shops.

Pacific Heights – or, more precisely, Fillmore Street between Jackson and Sutter, is reached by a hard climb up Fillmore from Cow Hollow, one of the steepest streets in the city. It is the home of many of the more exclusive shops. Enjoy the astonishing view of the city, bay, hills, Alcatraz and Marin Highlands on the other side of the Golden

Gate Bridge. Valencia Street with the Mission district is a pleasant area offering a slightly more Bohemian alternative to the pricier Marina. Look out for quality vintage, antiques, Mexican restaurants and exciting shops.

Eating and drinking

San Francisco is widely regarded as the food capital of the USA, and many foodies will testify to that. Locally-produced, organic ingredients and wines are the rule at many of the city’s restaurants. Even the smaller, neighbourhood eating-places of-

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TRAVEL

ten work in partnership with local farmers and vineyards. The climate is similar to the Mediterranean, with the same access to wonderful ingredients.

There are more restaurants per capita than in New York, but the quality is higher and more even. The local Californian cuisine features fresh vegetables, fruits, seafood and meat, preferably organically-grown.

Meals are frequently of fusion of different cuisines, often with a distinct Asian and Latin American flavour. Lovers of Mexican food will be delighted to find a plentiful supply of tamales, burritos, quesadillas, tacos and other delicious examples of Latin American cuisine.

For foodies, a visit to the Farmers Market is an absolute must. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, local farmers and producers sell everything from fruit and vegetables to honey and cheese at the market outside the Ferry Building. The Ferry Building is also the home of some of the city’s

The best restaurants Here are some of our favourite restaurants – book early to avoid disappointment.

PERBACCO

Without doubt one of California’s best Italian restaurants. Genuine Italian flavours in a modern, urbane environment. Enjoy homemade salami, prosciutto and other deli foods from the salami bar. The staff goes the extra mile to make your visit unforgettable.

230 California St, San Francisco, CA 94111 SLANTED DOOR

The Slanted Door recreates the rich flavours of Vietnamese street food with a touch of the West, made from fresh ingredients of the highest quality and accompanied by drinks and desserts. If you are uncertain about what to order, let the waiter compose a meal for you. The atmosphere is welcoming and sociable, but some may find it a bit noisy.

San Francisco Ferry Bldg, San Francisco,

against the backdrop of films screened on a large, white wall in the rear yard, and you can choose how much of the soundtrack you want to listen to via the antique drive-in cinema speakers at each table. The food is Californian cuisine with a Mediterranean and North African influence, and the wine list features many excellent vintages.

The whole experience is framed by the industrial-chic interior.

2534 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110 ZUNI CAFÉ

The Zuni Café has featured on SF’s restaurant map since 1979, and is now more popular than ever. Pause for a moment to enjoy the inviting atmosphere at the bar, and order a ”Chicken for two, roasted in the brick oven” – it is well worth the hourlong wait.

1658 Market St, San Francisco, CA 94102

THE FOREIGN CINEMA

THE WAYFARE TAVERN

If you are not put off by the rough area and make it to the stainless steel door on Mission Street, you will be rewarded by a unique food experience. Meals are served

Celebrity chef Tyler Florence strives for perfection and succeeds when everything from classic comfort food to rustic delicacies leave the open-plan kitchen with

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its carefully trained staff. The portions are generous, so make sure you’re hungry!

558 Sacramento St San Francisco, CA 94111 CHOW

A SF classic. Friendly atmosphere and great food. The menu is varied, but the emphasis is on traditional Californian cuisine.

215 Church St, San Francisco, CA 94114

best restaurants and patisseries, as well as exciting shops with a culinary association – an obvious destination for food-lovers.

A quick knock on the door, a whispered password, and the door opens slightly for a second or so, just enough to let in those in the know. The fashion for Prohibition-style ”speakeasies” has really taken off in San Francisco. Bourbon & Branch is, of course, the unofficial king of speakeasies, but it is also worth visiting the Alembic which attracts people from all over the city, as well as the Cantina, a great bar in the Mission District.

NIGHTLIFE

If your scene is culture, music or food, you’ll be spoilt for choice, since the city offers an incredible selection of all of these.

The range of restaurants, theatres, clubs, bars, art galleries and all sorts is simply superb. Most bars and clubs can be found in the Mission, Soma and Chinatown districts.

»The city centre is really compact, and walking is a great choice and an absolute joy.« Getting around

The streetcars, cable cars and buses offer excellent and cheap transport.

You can, of course, take a taxi. Hire a bicycle and peddle up and down the hills. The city centre is really compact, and walking is a great choice and an absolute joy. There are ferries to nearby places, including Alameda, Oakland, Tiburon and Sausalito.

The climate

You can visit San Francisco at any time of the year. Summer is the peak tourist season. September and November, with a feast of great festivals and lovely weather, are excellent months to visit. December to January is the San Francisco winter – short but rainy. l

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WE LIKE

Candleholder String

Scrapwood wallpaper

Design your very own candleholder with Ferm-Living's Candleholder String. They choose the colours, the length and the size – you choose the shape. It is made of lime and maple wood and can take four candles. www.ferm-living.com.

Dutch designer Piet Hein Eek has managed to emulate real planks of wood on paper for the wall covering. The top-quality FSC certified paper is available in six different wood plank types which are not printed in any particular pattern. www.pietheineek.nl.

A flat white, please If you crave coffee and want to be on trend, ask your barista for a flat white. A flat white is a coffee drink from Australia and New Zealand. It is prepared by pouring microfoam (steamed milk from the bottom of a jug) over a single (30 ml) or double shot of espresso. It is similar to a latte or café au lait and like other espresso-based drinks can be interpreted in various ways.

ABC-cups The lettering on this cup was designed by the worldrenowned Danish architect Arne Jacobsen (1902-1971).

Use it for coffee, pencils or your toothbrush. www.designletters.dk.

Wall Clamp Designer Brendan Ravenhill finds inspiration in the functional beauty of working tools: objects that strike the perfect balance between form and function and that develop a patina through use and wear. With “Wall Clamp”, his inspiration is made literal. Two cast-iron and beech-wood clamps serve as a shelf. www.areaware.com.

G-Star reinterprets iconic design Fashion brand G-Star has joined forces with the renowned Swiss furniture manufacturer Vitra to reinterpret some of French furniture designer Jean Prouvé's iconic designs. The Prouvé RAW series consists of both classics and some lesser known Prouvé furniture that has never before been produced. Prouvé RAW will be sold in a few selected stores worldwide for a limited period from October 2011-2012.

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