A
P U B L I C A T I O N
F R O M
N I L O R N
Lyle & Scott
C E L E B R AT I N G 1 4 0 Y E A R S
Stores you must visit
IN TOKYO, NEW YORK & AMSTERDAM
GSUS sindustries BEHIND THE SCENES
Nilorn Worldwide ASIA OFFICE
W O R L D W I D E
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CONTENTS 05 WELCOME
06 YOUR NEW GREEN WORLD BY LOTTA ALVAR
COVER PHOTO Styling Kawa H Pour Photo Olof Händén Styling assistant Arazoo Alibaba
08 LYLE & SCOTT
Photo assistant Niklas Göhle
140 YEAR ANNIVERSARY
Hair and Make up Sofia Holmgren Model Isabel Thorell / Elite models PAPER Cover Chromolux 250 gr. Body Amber Graphic 170 gr.
NILORN WORLDWIDE
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HONGKONG
Print Responstryck AB, Borås, Sweden.
GSUS SINDUSTRIES 15 BEHIND THE SCENES
STORES YOU MUST VISIT 19
AMSTERDAM, NEW YORK & TOKYO Nilorn Worldwide is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands using branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion and ready-to-wear industry. Nilorn Worldwide offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic solutions. Satisfied customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore important to establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through first-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is one of the leading European players, with turnover of ca 400 MSEK. The group operates through its own companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Hong Kong, India, China, Bangladesh, Turkey, Pakistan and Italy. In addition, there are partner companies in Switzerland, Tunisia, and USA. www.nilorn.com
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TRENDSPOTTING
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NEW COLLECTION
29
PANTONE
46
WELCOME TO FASHIONLAND
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
GOES JUICY
48
BEAUTY WITHOUT IRONY AIR/PORT PROJECT
52
BLUESIGN
ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY
54
RECAP OF PRODUCTS BUTTONS
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WELCOME
HEADQUARTERS NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com
SUBSIDIARIES & PARTNERS NILÖRN AB Alingsåsvägen 6 Box 499 503 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 00 Fax +46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24 CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel. +41 62 855 27 50 Fax +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. Millennium Castle, 12th fl. House 47, Road 27 Block A, Banani Dhaka -1213 BANGLADESH Tel. +88 02 8835912 Fax +88 02 8835913 info@bd.nilorn.com NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle BELGIUM Tel. +32 9 210 40 90 Fax +32 9 252 55 73 info@be.nilorn.com NILORN DENMARK A/S Vestergade 48 5000 Odense C DENMARK Tel. +45 70 23 16 23 Fax +45 66 13 48 31 info@dk.nilorn.com NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong Kowloon HONG KONG Tel. +852 2 371 2218 Fax +852 2 371 2629 info@hk.nilorn.com
NILORN GERMANY GMBH Itterpark 7 40724 Hilden GERMANY Tel. +49 2103 908 16 - 0 Fax +49 2103 908 16 - 99 info@de.nilorn.com NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD Plot no. 9c, Sector – 3 Parwanoo – 173220 (HP) INDIA Tel. +91 1792 235232 Fax +91 1792 233176 info@in.nilorn.com NILORN ITALY Via Bellini 8/C 41012 Carpi ITALY Tel. +39 3381611351 info@it.nilorn.com NILORN PAKISTAN (PVT) LTD 2nd Floor, Yasir Chambers Gulshan –E-Iqbal, Block 13A Main University Road P.O. Box 75300 Karachi PAKISTAN Tel: +92 21 349 92151 Fax: +92 21 349 92153 info@pk.nilorn.com NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel. +351 22 411 95 80 Fax: +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com NILORN SHANGHAI Chengjiaqiao Rd. 288, room 701 CN-201103 Shanghai CHINA Tel. +86-21 345 512 90 info@sh.nilorn.com
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NILORN TURKEY Mimar Sinan Cad. Ünverdi Sok. No:50. Kat:3. 34540 Günesli Istanbul TURKEY Tel. +90 212 657 76 76 (pbx). Fax +90 212 657 75 10 info@tr.nilorn.com NILORN UK LTD Acre Park Dalton Lane, Keighley West Yorkshire BD21 4JH UNITED KINGDOM Tel. +44 1535 673 500 Fax +44 1535 673 519 info@uk.nilorn.com NILORN UK LTD 81 Rivington Street Shoreditch, London EC2A 3AY UNITED KINGDOM Tel. +44 (0)203 427 3037 info@uk.nilorn.com NILORN US 3499 Meier Street Los Angeles, CA 90066 Tel. +1 888-315 1875 info@us.nilorn.com
WELCOME
A glimpse of N I L O R N
Dear Reader,
TOKYO
Dreaming of being in the spotlight, in front of a big shopping window.
It is with great pleasure that we release the first issue of our branding magazine for 2014. The dream of sun and summer is very strong in May, and since the spring has started earlier here in Scandinavia we also note a difference in people’s moods. They are more open and relaxed when temperatures start rising. »This is a really delightful time of the year.« As you can probably see, we have worked hard with this edition in order to focus even more on fashion and style, as well as the importance of branding. We use a wide range of different tools when working on branding today, and our methods are more subtle, but also more complex than ever before. Because the future will be very varied when it comes to branding, you can be very understated or very open in the way you decide to use your branding. Within the Nilorn Group, we have been working hard on our new collections for several months, and you will be astonished how much attention our designers give to the »small« details in order to find a unique touch that will be part of a full concept in which everything fits together as a perfect match. There is a mix of articles about design, sustainability, travel, graphic design, branding and other areas that we believe are highly interesting for you as a reader. The Nilorn team is totally devoted to developing a unique design and a strong branding concept for you in order to help your brand be even more successful in the competitive fashion market.
TOKYO
Thank you most humbly for the photograph, from our inspiration trip to Japan.
STOCKHOLM
Photographer and stylist interpret »Holy Habit« in a studio in Stockholm.
INSPIRATION TRIP
Design team in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, spring 2014.
NEW YORK
Inspiration comes from all around. Shop windows and street art in New York.
I hope you will find our magazine full of inspiration and interesting insights. All the best,
PHOTO SHOOT
Behind the scenes for the »Pantone goes juicy« article.
Claes af Wetterstedt CE O
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NEW GREEN WORLD
Welcome to the future YOUR NEW GREEN WORLD Words: Lotta Alvar
These are new times, in which sustainable materials and innovative techniques are emphasised in terms of design and lifestyle. The internet has changed everything. Today information is shared, and new ideas spread, faster than a button click. It feels like the concept of the Third Industrial Revolution has arrived when new business models, such as circular economies and crowdfunding are becoming increasingly common. Creative environments such as »makers studios« are the modern and urban equivalent of the seventies’ collectives and green waves. The penetration of 3D printing, in particular, is turning more and more designers into small-scale manufacturers. All of this changes the playing field and the rules for both consumers and manufacturers. New bio-based materials use residual and waste products from industry, which are blended into Image Credit- MakerBot composites and commercialised. They are similar to plastics, ceramics, porcelain and synthetic fibres but can be made from soybean curd, egg shells or wood shavings. Garbage and the things we used to throw away are recycled, composited and made new again. Textile compound materials we never saw before are now seeing the light of day thanks to research and advanced engineering. And Sweden is at the forefront.
cotton. Cotton requires a lot of water and pesticides are often used in large quantities, which is being questioned by w ell-informed consumers. The textile industry is rediscovering materials such as rayon, or lyocell as it is now called. This coincides with forestry industries struggling in a tough paper market. Health is the new black
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Cotton will be the future luxury fabric In addition to advanced technology becoming more accessible, there is a corresponding interest in genuine, real craftsmanship and natural materials. But it’s not just raw wool and unbleached linen, naturally-tanned leather and untreated wood that is being praised. It has been predicted that cotton will be the future luxury fabric because, as the p opulation increases, more land is being used to grow food instead of
returned to the original manufacturer after collection. More info: tinyurl.com/peve2o4
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PUMA InCycle Backpack
Sustainability and social responsibility have, of course, been integrated into our everyday lives. Commitment to the environment is hotter than any single fashion brand or i-clothing. New ideals take on new expressions in how we look when we shop and consumption is being questioned. Living right and eating good food is highly regarded. And health is the new black. Being seen wearing running shorts indicates awareness and a sporty lifestyle more than that expensive designer handbag. Sports brands such as Puma are at the forefront of sustainability. Even in the design phase. Smarter packaging, recyclable materials and recycling in stores result in significant gains on income statements, as does the use of renewable energy and more e fficient modes of transport. Green strategy thinking on the part of the board of directors has also proven to be very profitable. I care, therefore I am. Branding is of course about demonstrating who you are. Even our wardrobes, belongings and homes should reflect our personal identity and lifestyle. Green is beautiful. Made of recyclable polypropylene and will be
www.lyleandscott.com/140
LYLE & SCOTT
140
YEAR
ANNIVERSARY LYLE & SCOTT Editor: Stacy Testot-Newick
This year you are celebrating 140 years in business. What is planned to celebrate your years of successful business? The brand’s official 140th anniversary is in September later this year. To celebrate we plan to host a number of intimate international events and dinners, as well as launch a brand book at the beginning of next year revealing the Lyle & Scott story in its entirety. In addition to this a limited edition, premium capsule collection featuring the original ‘L&S Ltd’ embroidered logo is available to buy for this year only. The history of Lyle & Scott In 1874, William Lyle and Walter Scott founded a knitwear business in the Scottish town of Hawick, initially producing high quality underwear. In the 1920’s, following the demise of Lyle and Scott, the business expanded into knitted outerwear under Managing Director Charles Oliver. The 1950s-1990s saw collaborations with luxury fashion houses and stores such as; Christian Dior, Chanel and Liberty, and the company acquired the status of a global fashion brand. The brand diversified in the 1960’s
when the brand launched a new golf range, alongside the iconic Golden Eagle. Worn by sporting greats, the brand was propelled to new heights. Lyle & Scott entered the new millennium with freshly refined casualwear collections and became a truly contemporary fashion brand. Today Lyle & Scott is sold worldwide and the iconic Golden Eagle is recognised globally. Now and then – what has changed in the business – product, production, modernisation etc As a brand and company Lyle & Scott continues to build upon the foundations originally laid 140 years ago. Integrity, aspiration and classicism were the underlying pillars of the brand. Today Lyle & Scott continues to follow this philosophy but has also contemporised and strove to reach new goals. The Design and Product Development teams continue to work closely together in striving for the best quality product at the most competitive price on the market. The Sales team have refocused a large portion of their time to the European Market with the ambition of further establishing the business we
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already have in place. Supported by strong Finance and Operations divisions our goal for international expansion is suddenly insightful with the ambition to open new retail stores across a variety of international territories in the coming seasons. The innovative spirit of William Lyle & Walter Scott gave the brand the ability to reinvent itself and move with the times, something that still remains key to the brand’s success today. Branding – how do you see the importance and the impact it has on your product? Branding is extremely important to us. Our golden eagle is a global certification of authenticity and quality. Combined with the full trim packaging we aim to communicate all core elements of the brand DNA with each product we deliver. Future vision – where will Lyle and Scott be in the future? What is the goal? We are going from strength to strength. As a brand celebrating its 140th anniversary, it’s important that we maintain a contemporary feel yet still honour our heritage in our
LYLE & SCOTT
products and stories. Autumn/Winter ‘14 sees us launch two new collaborations with Jonathan Saunders and Universal Works, as well as breaking into new international territories. All of this has been achieved by hard work and dedication from a focussed and energetic team. Quality, Britishness and heritage have always been integral to our success as a brand. Describe Lyle and Scott in three words Scottish, Heritage, Knitwear Inspiration – where do your designers take inspiration from? Every season our design team delve through Lyle & Scott’s extensive archive in Scotland, which often lays the foundations for the new collections. With Lyle & Scott’s unique 140 years of rich heritage there are a lot of stories to tell and archive pieces from which to draw inspiration. Such an extensive library of documented products and imagery to reference is something which very few brands can lay claim to.
Company Established. William Lyle and Walter Scott
1874
Introduction of Y-Front trunks to Lyle & Scott business.
1950
Lyle & Scott sign a lucrative deal with Christian Dior.
1954
First Golf Tradeshow stand & Ad Campaigns.
1960
Launch of Golf Range and the Golden Eagle
1967
1926
Brand expands into knitted womens outerwear.
1951
The photo-artist Walter Nurnberg visited the Lyle & Scott factory in 1951 and captured the manufacturing process of a traditional Lyle & Scott Lambswool sweater.
1975
Who is the typical Lyle & Scott customer? He’s fashion forward without being fashion led and cares about provenance of product. He’s interested in quality and exclusivity. Core pieces and best sellers are the bread and butter of Lyle and Scott Authentic Made in Scotland, 100 % lambswool, Royal Warranted knitwear, a product that we have been successfully selling since the birth of the golden eagle in the 1960’s. Your relationship and cooperation with Nilorn UK
1980
Further sporting greats, players wearing Golden Eagle include Scottish golfing legend Sandy Lyle and Lee Westwood.
1990
Stars of music, TV and film pick
2000
up on Lyle & Scott attracting new attention for the brand.
Our relationship began in 2012 in preparation for our Spring/Summer ’13 Collection. We were determined to achieve top quality finishes, refine the attention to detail and develop our signature brand packages across the entirety of the collection. Nilorn’s wealth of knowledge and expertise offered us the fine results we were after and having worked closely with them for the last two years we foresee a longstanding relationship with these craftsmen.
2014
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The brand and the iconic golden eagle are embraced by Youth Culture.
NILORN WORLDWIDE
Hong Kong
NILORN WORLDWIDE all lights on
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NILORN WORLDWIDE
NILORN EAST ASIA AT THE HEART OF NILORN GROUP!
Nilorn East Asia has, for the last 5 years, been at the heart of the growth enjoyed by the Nilorn Group. Located in Kwun Tong, Kowloon, a once thriving manufacturing district for the textile industry, NEA has been ideally situated to make the most of the advantages of being based in HK and to being able to support the great work done by the European Sales offices as well as the Design Teams and IT departments to maximize any potential sales. Established in 2000/2001, the Company was a small regional office with of staff of 10 and a turnover of HKD 19 million. From those early days, it has now become an organisation comprising 84 staff based in HK with a turnover of over HKD 200 million. Its own production for variable print in HK was opened in April 2010. We have opened a subsidiary company in Shanghai (2010) to support our client’s and customer’s demands in the China market. We are responsible for the development of both Nilorn Bangladesh (2009) and Nilorn Pakistan (2014). Life moves at pace in Asia and especially with the »can do attitude« of HK and its hard working people. But the success of Nilorn East Asia (NEA) is not only down to its location. MD, Andrew Hoppe, is quick to put much of the success down to a combination of hard work and the dedication of the HK staff who have been thrilled to see how the business
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NILORN WORLDWIDE
has developed. »We are very proud of our record of not only being able to employ talented staff, but of keeping them with us and of being able to promote experienced personnel from within the company as we have expanded. This has been a key part of our success, as well as the ability to handle very rapid growth over the past few years with few major issues.« The support and commitment of our core supply partners in both HK and China have been invaluable. The Nilorn policy has been to develop close ties with our main supply partners and to build the business through ever closer business links and understanding of our requirements and expectations. Closely linked to this trust is a growing awareness of all of our CSR requirements and ethical and environmental responsibilities.
So how does NEA work? We have a very flat management structure that has been given the trust of the Main Group Board and management team, and this has given us the freedom to be able to make decisions quickly in order to take full advantage of the opportunities that have been presented to us. It has never been our attitude that we should simply protect what success we have had – we always look for ways to adapt and to anticipate the ever changing market conditions and buying patterns of our major clients as well as the types of products and qualities in demand. This not only allows us to protect what we have, but has allowed us to win more business. Company structure It is unusual for a European company to be the size of NEA and only have 2 expats based here. Our MD, Andrew, is an Englishman who has been with NEA for 7
years, and Per Axéll, Business Controller, is a Swede who has been in HK for 3 years. The rest of the management consists of local staff and it is largely through their skill and expertise that we have been successful. Our business model is simple, but effective – we have a Product D evelopment team consisting of 13 in HK which is managed by Christin Kan. They work directly with our sales teams to help source and develop the product ranges, taking designs from concepts to the finished products. Once a range has been developed and signed off, the responsibility for the daily management of the accounts is passed to Apple Chan and a team of dedicated 14 Customer Service representatives. Each client has a named CS allocated to the account with a named back up – we will always have 2 members of staff in CS who will know what is happening in any one account at any time. The CS’s responsibility is to work closely with our customers and the manufacturers of our clients, to ensure that all of their demands are met. To support this, Apple and Yvonne Mok work closely with the customers and agents in both HK and China to help promote what we do and the services we offer, and to help educate customers about our web ordering systems. Gone are the days when we were a nominated supplier and business simply came to you. We now have to promote ourselves.
The majority of the business we handle is based on a stock and distribution model, in which we pick and pack orders on demand. Space in HK is always at a premium, so the 30,000 sq. foot of warehouse is fully utilised by Andy Ng and his team of 14 in the warehouse, who are finding ever inventive ways of maximizing our capacity – on average we will handle 7,000 stock orders each month in addition to Direct Dispatch shipments as well as regular weekly shipments to our German central warehouse and other Group companies globally. In 2010 we reviewed the increasing volume of variable data products we were selling and recognised the potential of being able to maximise the benefit of this through improved protection of our clients’ valuable data by keeping this in house, as well as reducing our lead times. Thus, unusually for a HK based sourcing and logistics company, we opened a variable
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Where do we go next? At the moment we are still seeing growth within HK and Shanghai, but of course we are aware of the growing concerns over increasing costs within China, so other markets are always being reviewed. But that is another advantage of being based in HK.
MANY COMPANIES WILL HAVE THE SAME STORY TO TELL
In house production
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print department supplying adhesive stickers. In 2011 we went one step further and opened a flexo print department for variable wash care labels – both of these complimented our existing thermo print department. Under the management of Erica Wong, we currently supply over 50 % of all variable products that we supply out of NEA through our own production – this has proven to be a great success, and on the back of this we have installed variable print within the other regional offices. Behind all of this of course is the Finance Department, managed by Fanny Chow. This department is being asked to handle ever increasing volumes of transactions – a product of our success as well as a reflection of the changing buying patterns of many of our clients, smaller orders with shorter lead times and a more flexible response to all requirements being the main demand placed on us.
The fact is that Hong Kong is not only a gateway to mainland China and the huge manufacturing region of the Pearl River Delta, it is also strategically located at the heart of Asia. • Beijing, Shanghai, Singapore, Taipei, Manila, Kua la Lumpar are all in the same time zone as HK. • Bangkok, Jakarta, Seoul and Tokyo are within one hour’s difference. • All of Asia’s key markets are less than 4 hours away & half the world’s population is within 5 hours flight time. • There are over 1,000 daily flights between HK and the rest of the world. All of these factors sit well with the reality that Hong Kong is a Free Trade Port; there is no sales tax, no duty, no withholding tax and no capital gains tax. The list goes on. ** details taken from Invest HK papers.
GSUS SINDUSTRIES
GSUS
BEHIND THE SCENES
Words: Stephanie Duval.
Dutch clothing brand Gsus proves that you don’t just get one chance in life. The label was founded in 1993 and positioned itself in the market as the colourful, young rebel, always doing things a little differently. It became very popular very quickly, and just like any company in that situation, it experienced some growing pains. The upswing of fast fashion and the resulting changing fashion industry added additional challenges. Yet in 2012, Gsus made a comeback with a fresh...
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GSUS SINDUSTRIES
Robin Batens Design, Product and Buying Manager
Hyun Yeu Chief Designer
»ACCESSORIES ARE VERY IMPORTANT, BECAUSE THEY ARE THE FINISHING TOUCH TO A BRAND.«
perspective and new management, and though it might now be smaller than before, it is stronger than ever. Nilorn sat down with Design, Product and Buying Manager Robin Batens and Chief Designer Hyun Yeu to talk present, past and future. How would you describe what has happened to Gsus and where the brand is headed now? Robin Batens: »Gsus is now 21 years old. The brand became well known because of its strong image, and it grew to be a favourite among young people. In the beginning it was mostly customers in their twenties, but then it became more popular with younger people, too, and that proved to be a little bit of a problem. Because if your younger brother of 12 is wearing the same T-shirt as you, it’s not cool anymore. Four years ago Dutch investment group Varova bought the brand, intending to get it back on track. With the new approach, we’re focusing on the 25+ customer. We don’t have an age limit because it’s more about having a young state of mind. Hyun and I joined about two years ago, and we’re responsible
for the collection. We try not to look at the past, only to the future. People always like to put everything in a box to give it a place, but we’re trying to fight that. Gsus had a certain image in the past, and during the past few seasons we noticed customers approached the brand from that older image first, but then they look at the collection and they see all of the adjustments we have made. I would say we’re now moving past the point where we have to convince people to reconsider Gsus. Every season sees a 30 % increase in sales, so we’re well on our way.« Would you say that the label has grown up? Hyun Yeu: »Yes, I would. There’s still an element of rebellion, but in a more sophisticated way. We call the style ’twisted classics.’ There’s always an element of a strong colour or a strong graphic, and that’s incorporated into a classic item that people from all ages can appreciate. The rebellion is still there, but it’s more subdued. Our ’Made by Instinct’ slogan points to an approach based on creativity. That has
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always been the DNA of the brand. We’re focusing on creative people: people who want to wear nice clothes, but are also creative. They like to dress a little bit differently, and that is our consumer.« Is that the kind of person who works at Gsus as well? Robin Batens: »Everyone who works here has an open-minded creativity. Today, if you want to sell a collection, you have to create a brand. We’re taking a new direction, which is firmly rooted in creative experiments. Everyone at the company is putting all kinds of ideas on our blackboard wall: you don’t really think about it, you just do it. There’s some creativity in everybody. And our Creative Director Jan Schrijver often invites people from outside the firm to co-create with us, or to inspire us. A while ago, Jan invited a singer over. She’s a good friend of Jan and quite a big name in the festival circuit. She does this amazing thing, called impulse singing. She asks the audience to call out words, and then she and her musicians make it into a brand new song.«
GSUS SINDUSTRIES
How important are these external inputs?
Can you tell us a little more about the partnership with Nilorn?
Hyun Yeu: »We try to find a balance between what people are doing outside of Gsus, and what we’re doing within. When you ask a famous painter to come and paint something, that’s inspiring. When you take the content from our inspirational blackboard and ask the people from the financial department to do something creative with it, that’s also inspiring.
Robin Batens: »When I joined two years ago, there were a lot of different departments, and the design and merchandise department weren’t always working together as closely as they should. But when a designer pushes a button, it has an effect on the entire subsequent process. So I tried to make everyone aware of what everybody was doing. When we travel, we bring the whole team to see what’s possible. Accessories are very important, because they are the finishing touch to a brand. We discovered Gsus used to see trimmings as an accessory, but I think you should approach it as a normal supply. We created a new approach so that everybody is aware of any developments. We’re always under time pressure, and sometimes it’s still not perfect, but compared to
How does the new image and focus on creativity translate beyond the actual collections? Robin Batens: »As you notice when you visit our showroom, we have copper pipes everywhere, which we use to hang our collections on. You’ll also find those in our ten brand stores: it’s kind of a theme. And the blackboards with chalk - you’ll find those in the stores too. We also attract attention to the fact that we’re original Dutch design. You can see the Dutch flag in some of the trimmings.« What’s in store for the future? Robin Batens: »Some people may see this as a dream more than a plan, but we would like to be the third brand of The Netherlands in 5 to 6 years. It’s possible! You can see how the market is changing: it’s not about buying and selling anymore, it’s about branding. You have to go beyond just looking good in the showroom. It’s also about staying in touch with your customer and consumer. When we go to the stores, we talk to the guys on the floor, because they tell us the truth about what they think is happening. It’s very important for us to listen closely. Our team always has young, fresh interns. We keep the team strong, but it’s good to have fresh blood every couple of months. And every intern is very happy here at Gsus, because they learn a lot here.«
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two years ago, it’s turned 180°. We also went on some trips with Nilorn. At one point we were experiencing delays, but instead of pointing fingers, we wanted all partners to sit around the table to create awareness of the whole situation. The bottom line is that it’s all about partnership and relationships: not sending e-mails back and forth, but working together and finding solutions.« Partnership is very important to Gsus, and I understand ethics are as well? Robin Batens: »Yes. We only produce in countries where we can control production and we know for sure everything is made under good conditions. We have an agent in China who keeps an eye on the processes and the factories. We also produce garments in Turkey and Tunisia and we’re starting to work in Macedonia as well. India and Pakistan we avoid, because we can’t control the situation there and we don’t speak the language. Where possible, we also like to ask our external suppliers and partners for a Code of Conduct; similar to the one Nilorn has.«
STORES YOU MUST VISIT
STORES BRANDING
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STORES YOU MUST VISIT
BONUM Photo: Sandra Kucher
From Bonum is aimed at people who are particular about not only styling, also sewing fabric and FROM BONUM. A factory shop and order of denim. In-store to be able to look at the work of a series of cut-sewing-processing, while talking directly with the creator. You can make one of your own specification.
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STORES YOU MUST VISIT
FROM BONUM 1F 1-5-7 JINNAN SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sundays & Holidays - Closed +81 0()3-5428-6520 www.from-bonum.jp
CUSTOM CHOICE We have 4 type of base model, total about 100 type of parts provided. Also, detail orders like coating and damage look is available. 13,000yen + Tax PATTERN ORDER There is wide selection for denim. You can choose the available worldwide collected denim. You can even tailor make the denim for designed fabric content, fit and stitching. 35,000yen + Tax
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STORES YOU MUST VISIT
SHINOLA
TRIBECA, NEW YORK Words: Daniel Caudill, Creative Director, Shinola.
Photo: Courtesy of Shinola
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STORES YOU MUST VISIT
Photo: Courtesy of Shinola
It all started in 2011 with the idea of what a »Made in America« watch company would look like. Shinola didn’t have a name at that time, but began crafting the story. They started with watches, because they are arguably the most complicated and precise product to make. They believe that if you can make a watch of the quality and standard they have set for themselves, then they believe you can make anything. For Shinola, it’s all about quality. It’s really about the combination of minimalistic design combined with quality manufacturing. From a styling perspective they are inspired by classic design, but their ultimate goal is to make products that feel modern. That whole idea behind the brand, from Shinola’s workplaces to their stores, is to create spaces that are comfortable, effortless, and inviting. Their stores are beautiful open spaces that express Shinola’s community-based spirit. In Tribeca they have »The Smile NYC« and every month Shinola’s inventory changes, so there’s always something new to discover.
SHINOLA FLAGSHIP TRIBECA 177 Franklin St., New York, NY 10013 917-728-3000 www.shinola.com Mon-Sat, Shinola Retail 11am-7pm Mon-Sat, THE SMILE 7am-7pm Sun, Shinola Retail 12-6pm Sun, THE SMILE 7am-6pm Photo: Rikard Häll
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STORES YOU MUST VISIT
READY TO FISH BY ILJA, AMSTERDAM
Dutch fashion label Ready to fish by Ilja, launched in 2006, is the ready to wear women’s line of the Ilja Visser Group. Ready to fish’s line was created in order to express the group’s core value of selfexpression through versatile and wearable designs. Embracing the main aspects of adaptability and personalisation of fashion, the collections are comprised of casual, contemporary and durable pieces accommodating everyone’s individual style. Completing the look and atmosphere of the label is an exclusive selection of furniture.
Each piece is restructured into unique creations from used pieces of furniture, achieving the dream-like fantasy world of the ready to fish concept store. During Ilja Visser’s last trip, New York inspired her to translate the current trend of Urban Gardening to her own Ready to Fish brand store. The brand store was re-launched on 2 May, at which we presented our new concept.
‘Urban Gardening loves Rock and Roll’. When you visit the new store, you experience a place of relaxation and quietness while still being part of a fast moving city. The grey toned grind floor, combined with industrial furniture and the work of visual artists Leoniek Bontje and Michiel Volkers, gives that urban and fresh look and feel.
READY TO FISH IS HOSTING A FRIDAY AFTERNOON DRINK ON THE FIRST FRIDAY OF EACH MONTH IN THEIR BRAND STORE.
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TRENDSPOTTING
RUBRIK UNDERRUBRIK Editor: Namn Namnsson
Welcome to Fashionland Words: Damien Lynch.
Photo: Damien Lynch & Sandra Kucher.
According to a recent survey by »Trip Advisor«, Tokyo has been ranked the no. 1 most satisfying city in the world. It’s not difficult to understand why! This Metropolis is a fashion mecca, or should I say »the Disneyland of every fashionista’s dreams«. A city that is so rich in colour, coolness and diversity that it will melt your little fashion heart and make your eyes water for more, more, more! Mismatch but somehow cool.
Wild west meets East.
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TRENDSPOTTING
Living in the world’s most populous metropolitan city, it can’t be easy for Japan’s youth to have a fashion look that is individual, different or stands out in the crowd. But the Japanese seem to have mastered this dilemma to such perfection, that they even have names for many of the different fashion styles, such as Harajuku, Lolita, Decora and Neo-Victorian to name just a few. This is one of the reasons why western designers, trend scouts and fashion stylists have been flocking to this capital in recent years, and sharing their influences with us by creating looks for pop icons such as Gwen Stefani, Madonna and Katy Perry. Gwen Stefani even wrote a song entitled Harajuki girls. The birthplace of many of these outrageously fabulous styles is Harajuku Street, and many of these avant garde fashion statements can be seen on most days. The norm being that there is no norm! These fashion styles have a deeper intellectual meaning for Japan’s youth. Basically, what the aggressiveness of the Sex Pistols was to the punk generation of the 70s - and their source of inspiration, could be compared to the way Japan’s youth use cute kitsch icons such as Hello Kitty and Manga as their inspiration. Japanese Fashion Houses, such as Kenzo, Comme des Carcon and Yohji Yamamoto, have secretly invaded the fashion scene around the Globe over the last few decades. Slowly changing our perception of what is the norm, by mixing patterns such as polka dots with gingham, origami type clothes, distressed fabrics and presenting us with a new norm. The norm being that there is no norm! They have enjoyed huge success with this philosophy. Maybe it’s because they have taught us that it’s GOOD to be different and break free of the chains of fashion conformism. Even the less extreme street fashions, while being more accessible to Europeans and westerners, are still a visual delight to observe. Because the Japanese seem to have a highly evolved fashion sense and an eye for details. Mixing and matching clothes and accessories in a way that Europeans would consider a definite fashion no-go, but somehow they manage to pull it off and OWN the look!
Two decora styled girls on Harajuku St.
They may even love you for it! In the West we often tend to feel more comfortable wearing the same trends as our friends to fit in a group; i.e. the Ugg boot trend. The Japanese seem to go out of their way not to dress like each other, and it is virtually impossible to see any two people on the street wearing clothes in the same style or manner. Another plus about Tokyo is, no matter what you wear, people do not stare. You can be sure that even Lady Gaga could walk around this metropolis in one of her most outlandish dresses without being stared at! So when you visit Tokyo, leave the Ugg boots at home, and feel free to bring along all the clothes you bought on impulse, but then thought too loud or too wild to wear, and which have since hung sadly in your wardrobe waiting to be worn. Because in Tokyo there is no such thing as too much or too wild, in fact, they may even love you for it!
Loving the hat.
Neo Gothic.
Tip: Sunday is the day where you can view most youngsters hanging out on Harajuku St., but it’s also the most crowded. Go during a weekday for a more relaxed time to explore the boutiques.
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
COLLECTION Nilorn product development On the following pages, we will present our latest collection. Our aim is to provide our customers with inspiration and ideas on how they can take their labels and branding to a new level. We are always on the lookout for new materials and production techniques, whilst in the background fine-tuning the interaction between design, production and logistics.
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
PHOTOGRAPHER Olof Händén STYLIST Kawa H Pour
In this issue we asked photographer Olof Händén and stylist Kawa H Pour to interpret one of our latest collections Holy Habits. On the following pages you can see the result of this edgy photo shoot. Holy Habits is a brand for fashion-conscious people whose taste is for tailoring and simplicity. The brand includes collections for both men and women, with edge skirts, jackets and accessories such as scarves and leather belts.
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Fur coat Alexander Leather top By Malene Birger Leather pants Minimum Hat Patrizia Pepe Necklace Calvin Klein Necklace (belt) Ioaku Bracelet Calvin Klein Bracelet Zadig &Voltaire
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Wool coat Replay ONE OFF Top Just Cavalli Skirt Just Cavalli Belt Zadig & Voltaire Bracelets Zadig & Voltaire Earrings BACK
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Coat Tiger of Sweden Top Karl Lagerfeld Leather pants Stand Black Nude Leather boots Diesel Leather necklace Diesel Ring Bjรถrg Ring BACK Bracelet Zadig & Voltaire Necklace Ioaku
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Top Sand Skirt Yvette Hass Backpack Beak boots Bracelet Zadig & Voltaire Ring BACK Leather Bracelet Diesel
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Fur coat Diesel Sweater Diesel Belt Patrizia Pepe Skirt Ralph Lauren Necklace Ioaku Earrings Ioaku Bracelet Zadig & Voltaire Ring Barefoot accessories
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Sleeveless dress Missoni Skirt Just Cavalli Shoes Jennie Ellen Bracelet Zadig & Voltaire Bracelet Zadig & Voltaire Necklace Ioaku Ring Bjรถrg
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Top G-star Skirt Kaylee Cho Belt Patrizia Pepe Bag Zcabernet Bracelet Zadig & Voltaire Ring Barefoot accessories Earrings Barefoot accessories Ring BACK Necklace Bjรถrg Bracelet Calvin Klein
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Styling Kawa H Pour
Coat Karl Lagerfeld
Photo Olof Händén
Top Hugo Boss
Styling assistant Arazoo Alibaba
Leather pants Benedikte Utzon
Photo assistant Niklas Göhle
Necklace Ioaku Belt Replay
Hair and Make up Sofia Holmgren
Ring BACK
Model Isabel Thorell / Elite models
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
latest innovations in style to create a new interior design statement that is fun, functional, and modern without being clinical! Vintage furnishings of bygone eras - 1930’s lamps, wooden tables and sofas - are given a twist by combining them with modern elements to give a familiar yet contemporary look! Today at Dunmore Bros., we design furnishings to make your home and lifestyle simpler and more enjoyable by using unconventional ideas that allow you to mix and match design concepts and colour palettes, thus putting your own unique stamp on your home interior!
Dunmore Bros. was founded in 1908 by James and Edward Dunmore, as a home furnishing company specialising in the innovative styles of the Art Nouveau movement of the period. In 2013, Edward Dunmore’s great-grandson, William, revitalised the family-run business by going back to his family roots and finding inspiration in the past, then fusing these elements with the
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
This New York-based lingerie and bijouterie brand is for women who appreciate well-tailored underwear l ikewise demand comfort and a perfect fit. The Miss Mayfield range includes lingerie and nightdresses in fine fabrics, as well as a collection of bijouterie incorporating pearls andgemstones. Inspiration The concept reflects the transition from Industrial evolution to the Art Noveau epoch, in the years 1880R 1915. The sun-bleached paper, corsets, pearls, laces and sheer materials of this nostalgic era c ombine with natural light tones and darker accent colours to encapsulate the essence of the brand.
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Marla’s Closet first opened in summer 1996 in the heart of Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The clothes are d esigned with young women in mind, particularly t hose who want their wardrobes to reflect their femininity. MC lets them feel comfortable, yet still beautiful and elegant. Personal style is as unique as your handwriting, but whether you are looking for a nice dress or a relaxed T-shirt, this is the place to go. This collection has a naval feel: navy blue, off-white and nautical stripes. The garments also feature c harming printed anchors and old-style typeface.
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
»Smart-casual, well crafted with a sartorial twist« perfectly describes Savages’ garments; clothes that take you from a smart day at work, to a laid back night out with friends. Savages garments are classic but with their own unique style. The target market is men aged 25 - 40 who are happy to spend but don’t overspend. Inspiration 1940s California. Sun, glamour, palm trees and mystery – Hollywood film Mulholland Drive is a specific influence in its dark, murder mystery plot line. The idea of being outwardly polished and slick, but with dark and mysterious hidden depths to your personality is something that we have translated into the designs of our clothes. ABOVES
IDE (loop) 3 x 3 mm
4 mm 5 mm
6 mm
CROSS SECTION
4,4 mm
3 mm
3 mm 1,5 mm 4,4 mm 12 mm
12 mm
CROSS SECTION 4,8 mm
BOTTOM
2,4 mm 3,3 mm
4,8 mm
10,8 mm
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9 mm
2,4 mm 10 mm
3,3 mm
2 mm
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Pedum is a high quality footwear brand. Our aim in tarting Pedum was to fill a gap in the market by offering people quality shoes at an affordable price, without compromising on standards and stylish Scandinavian design. There are hints of military detailing and innovation in the playful mix between different textures and combinations of materials - hard meets soft. Creating something new and exciting. It is high fashion blended with street cred. Beautiful detailing is a major attribute of Pedum’s brand.
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
At Sienna Bristle we believe in strong colours and an eclectic mix of different tones. When you choose an item from our collection you will not only be delighted by the kaleidoscopic colours and our attention to detail, but also by the excellent quality and comfortable fit. Let Sienna Bristle brighten up your wardrobe with vibrant shades and clothes that want to be your best friend!
We have drawn our inspiration from the world of artists, from the idea of a disorganised studio with its paintbrushes, spilled paints and scattered canvases. Sheets of paper with watercolour paints blended to create soft landscapes of colour. Art galleries where the large, brightly-lit spaces are in sharp contrast with the beautiful objects on display.
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PANTONE
Pantone goes juicy FIVE DETOX JUICE RECIPES We picked out some of our favourite colours from the Pantone textile color guide and blended some nice inspirational drinks for the summer. All you need is a good imagination, an adventurous PORT ROYALE Beetroot Apple Lemon Celery Ginger
spirit and a blender. Thanks to Fruits & Friends (Instagram: @FruitsandFriends)
PERIDOT Avocado Spinach Lemon Apple Ginger
GOLDEN GREEN Broccoli Squash Celery Lemon Apple
® PANTONE
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PERSIMMON ORANGE Orange Carrot Apple Ginger
WARM SAND Almond milk Banana Cinnamon Peanut butter
BEAUTY WITHOUT IRONY
After having worked as an editor, brand consultant and promoter of young fashion talent for over 15 years, Ninette Murk got the nagging feeling there had to be more to life. After having worked as an editor, brand consultant and promoter of young fashion talent for over 15 years, Ninette Murk got the nagging feeling there had to be more to life. After seeing the show put on by Serkan Sarier, a graduate of the Antwerp Fashion Academy in 2001, she wrote a manifesto about what pure beauty entails, and how society risks losing track of its real and honest definition. Just like that, Beauty Without Irony was born. Today, the organisation aims to be »a creative platform for social change,« in the words of Ninette. »Its goal is to have people look at life from a different perspective, so that they can decide for themselves what is truly important, instead of blindly believing what media and advertisers are trying to convince them of.« Beauty Without Irony’s strategy is to collaborate with companies, brands and partners to create campaigns that raise awareness about social issues and contribute money to appropriate charities. The best known example is the Fashion Against AIDS collaboration
with Swedish clothing chain H&M, which ran from 2008 to 2012 and contributed more than EUR 13 million to four HIV/AIDS organisations. One of those organisations was Designers Against AIDS, the first concrete project by Beauty Without Irony under the helm of Ninette. The initiative received enough funds to allow it to open its first educational centre in Antwerp. The centre attracts students in creative disciplines from around the world. »We teach these youngsters, who are studying fashion, film, web design, product design, journalism or marketing, how to create and promote socially relevant campaigns, so that they can do more with their talents than simply earn money«, explains Ninette. »In the first years we mostly created campaigns around safe sex and HIV/AIDS, but more recently our projects have also focused on themes such as empowering young women, anti-bullying, volunteer work, ecology...«
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BEAUTY WITHOUT IRONY
Where the flags fly The most recent initiative focuses on finding happiness close to home. The first edition of the Air/Port project took place in 2013 in the Moroccan coastal village of Essaouira. »When my project manager Jean-Yves Dushime and I were there on an inspiration trip to think about how to further develop Beauty Without Irony, we fell in love with the city. Everything organically fell into place after that, which is true for most of our successful projects.« Taking one of Essaouira’s trademark characteristics - its strong winds - Air/Port wanted to draw attention to the beauty of the city and the creativity of its inhabitants. Wind is what makes Essaouira a very popular kite surfing destination among travellers, but locals don’t always appreciate the challenging weather conditions. Ninette asked local and international artists to create visual art works, and then had them printed on giant flags. For two months, they drew attention not only to the natural phenomenon, but also to the original pieces of art that were being showcased at different locations throughout the city. Beauty Without Irony is bringing the Air/Port project to Antwerp next: »People in Antwerp like to complain a lot, so it will be fun to try and make them smile again«, says Ninettte. A lot of new work has been commissioned for this next edition, and combined with some that were originally made for Essaouira, these images will be printed onto new giant flags. Besides admiring the flags, Antwerp’s visitors and inhabitants will also be able to discover the original works in different locations all over the city.
NILORN’S INVOLVEMENT IN AIR/PORT Meeting Ninette Murk and listening to her story left an impression on Nilorn’s Bart Van Trimpont. He knew he wanted to get the company involved in one of the good causes behind Beauty Without Irony, and when the Air/Port project was launched, the perfect opportunity presented itself. Creating the huge flags onto which the art works could be printed, was no small feat. Nilorn sponsored a part of the process in order to see the concept come to life for the first time in Essaouira. Thanks to the success of the first edition, Nilorn will also take on a role in the event planned for Antwerp.
FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT: www.beautywithoutirony.com www.airportexpo.org
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BLUESIGN
bluesign
®
ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIEND LY Words: Per Axéll
It eliminates harmful substances right from the beginning of the manufacturing process and sets and controls standards for environmentally friendly and safe production.
All different principles put a reliable and proactive tool at the disposal of the entire textile production chain. From raw material, through textile manufacturers, retailers and brand companies to consumers. Air pollution is a big global problem. Bluesign® air emission standards comply with strictly controlled emission limits along the entire production chain. Water is probably the most acute environmental problem in China. And more than half the water is so polluted as to be undrinkable. Bluesign® water emission control aims at
feeding purified water back into the natural cycle and causing the least possible pollution of rivers, lakes and seas. The principle Occupational health and safety of employees ensures good conditions for employees in the textile industry. In accordance with the risk potential of the deployed chemical substances, corresponding occupational safety measures are mandatory. To become a Bluesign® system partner, a detailed screening of all company processes considering all five principles, will take place.
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Bluesign® system partners are chemical suppliers, manufacturers, and brands committed to applying the bluesign® system.
BLUESIGN
Principles and criteria for the Bluesign® standard:
Resource productivity
Occupational health & Safety
Water emission
Air emisson
Nilorn has established Bluesign® certified production chains in Europe and Asia. As part of our ambitions to take responsibility for our future, Nilorn believes in taking an overall view regarding environmentally friendly products. Bluesign® standard is a very important part of ensuring sustainable p roduction and the reduction of energy consumption. Nilorngruppen AB is certified by Nilorn Portugal and other external certified suppliers in Asia.
Certified product types are »Woven Polyester Labels«, »Heat Transfer Labels« and »Printing Care Labels«.
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Consumer safety
RECAP
MR SMITH
RUMBLE GOODS & CO
ADRIEN FORAY
MRS 012
RG 310
AF 111
CHARLIE SHORT
MAYA
DUNMORE BROTHERS
CHA 111
MY 110
DUN 212
WONDROUS
WHYTE A.S.
JEREMIAH JONES AND SONS
PETROL
DECO MODA
RUMBLE GOODS & CO
SPROUT
WHYTE INDUSTRIES
WON 106
PETROL 014
SAVAGES SA 015
WHY 211
DM 010
SPROUT 008
BUTTON COLLECTION BY NILORN
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JJ SB
RG 113
WHY 012
www.talkingfrench.com