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Disclaimer: Title of the document: Karigari Published on August 2017, by the Fashion Communication Department of National Institute of Fashion Technology Site No. 21, 27th Main Road, HSR Layout, Sector 1 Bengaluru, Karnataka – 560034 Content @ Nishant Gautam Layout & Design @ Nishant Gautam And Ashit Barwa Photographs @ Nishant Gautam And Ashit Barwa Source: As mentioned under the photograph National Institute Of Fashion Technology, Batch 2015-19 All rights reserved by NIFT, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in retrieval system or transmitted in any from or by any means, electronic, mechanical or photocopying without prior written permission.
Certificate: This is to certify that the Craft Cluster Coffee table book titled “Karigari� is a record of the work done by the students Nishant Kumar Gautam (BD/15/1782) and Ashit Barwa (BD/15/3132) as regular students for the degree of B. Des Fashion Communication during the period of July 2017, which represents as independent work and does not form the base of any previous work.
Place: Bengaluru Date:
Under the Guidance of Mr. Sanjeev C.M. Assistant Professor Department of Fashion Communication National Institute of Fashion Technology Bengaluru -560102
External Jury
External Jury
External Jury
External Jury
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Preface: Craft has always played a significant role in India, from profession, to trade, to art and culture. Our crafts have evolved through the ages, from the time of Indus Valley Civilisation to the British Raj, and the more adversity we have seen, the more we have kept our art and craft close to our hearts. As much as it is an amalgamation of the vast diversity that India represents, it is also an opportunity for each culture to mark its own identity. For us, this experience was filled with learning, an exchange of knowledge, ideas and more than anything else, an exchange of stories, a glimpse into the lives of artisans, the people who make our homes and lives beautiful.
C O N T E N T 8
1 • • • • • • • • •
We are Mysore:
Overview Mysore : 12-13 Origin : 14 People Of Mysore : 15 Geography : 16 Flora & Fauna : 17 Places2 Visit : 18-19 Festival : 20 Food And Market : 21 Pulse of the City : 22-25
2 • • • •
We are Inlay
About Craft : 28-29 Tools : 30-31 Process : 32-33 Process in depth : 34-41
• Motifs and Shapes : 42-43 • Products : 44-47
3 • • • • •
We are Art
Arun Fine Arts : 50-51 Majeed fine arts : 52-53 Glossary : 54 Bibiliography : 55 Acknowledgement : 56
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We’re Mysuru!
Mysore (or Mysuru), a city in India’s southwestern Karnataka state, was the capital of the Kingdom of Mysore from 1399 to 1947 uuu
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“Beauty
in every step you take” 11
We’re Traditional !
Overview : Mysuru Mysore reflect the lifestyle of ancient India. The people of Mysore are known for their cultural heritage, which is a blend of nearly 2500 years old tradition and history with the present contemporary lifestyle. The traditional main arts and crafts of Mysore are Mysore Rosewood Inlay,
style of marble inlay to wood inlay due to the abundant availability of Rosewood nearby. The artisans have sustained this craft for over two centuries and thanks to government initiatives, is nowhere near decline. Our aim was to highlight the origin and the evolution of the craft, “Mysore is the second-largest city in in terms of materials, Karnataka,...and a district and divisional tools, capital. It is also one of the fastest patterns growing cities in southern India, with new and manufacturing and software industries motifs, as well as its establishing production facilities.” economic and socioPatchwork, woodcarving, cultural significance. Known Mysore Peta, Ganjifa cards, to be 5th cleanest city in Mysore traditional paintings India, Mysuru is known to be and Mysore silk. Even after the heritage and cultural city decades, today the people of karnataka. Now, Mysore of Mysore still give great City is the headquarters of value and respect towards Mysore District, located in the crafts. The craft we Deccan Plateau of south India got a chance to study is about 772 meters above Mysore Rosewood Inlay, first mean sea level. adapted from the Persian
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Mysore, also called as Mysuru, is second largest city (after Bangalore) in Karnataka with an area of 129 sq. km. Mysore is the base of Chamundi Mountains about 142 km away from Bangalore. Mysore was the capital of Mysore state from about 1800 to 1973. After India re-organized the states, Mysore state was expanded to include Kannada speaking districts that were part of neighbouring states. It was renamed Karnataka, and the capital was transferred to Bangalore All these innovations are being done without in any way tampering with the purity and uncompromising quality that has characterised Mysore silk fabrics - including saris for decades. Mysore is also known as the “Garden City” or the “City of Palaces”.
Beauty at its peak :
Mysore Palace
During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, however, the fort changed its form from a residential town into a modern garden or empty space where only the palace and temple remained... This spatial transformation of the ort was a crucial part of a city improvement project in Mysore, which tried to beautify the capital at the same time as
Mysore palace, which is certainly a good example of Indo-Sarcenic style of architecture – a blending of traditional and modern – is both a heritage monument of India’s princely past, and a momento of the maharaja’s
“Mysore has evolved into an industrial boom town and a magnet for capital and technical workers.” endeavuoring to meet modern demands of sanitation and hygiene.
lavish taste and spending. The dasara celebrations, on the lavish scales now maintained, date from the beginning of the 17th century, when Raja
Wodeyar came to the throne of Mysore after Sri Rangaraja, as descendent of the Vijayanagar Princes. With his ascent also dates the use of the famous throne by the Maharaja, during the festival. Raja Wodeyar who became the king of Mysore at the beginning of the 17th century, celebrated the dasara festival on a royal scale, and after him, year after year the Dasarz has gained in splendor, entertainment and attractiveness.
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Origin
Hands in Action!
“The word Mysuru comes from the Sanskrit word “Mahisuru”, which means abode for “Mahisa” in the language Kannada. According to Hindu mythology, “Mahisa” refers to “Mahisasuru” the demon in Hindu mythology, who can take the form of both buffalo and human..”
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People of Mysuru
Hands in Action!
“As per census 2011 about 887449 people reside in Mysore. Among them male compromise 50% of population and rest is female. It is a Hindu predominant Town; about 77% of population follows Hinduism. 19% of population follow Islam religion. Christians and some other community group reside here with a minor percent. Kannada is prime spoken language in Mysuru. Hindi, Urdu and English languages are also spoken by some residents of the city.�
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Geography
Hands in Action!
“Usually the climatic characteristic of Mysore remains comfortable and better than other Indian cities. The summer season continue from March to mid-June when temperature levels vary from 23°C to 32°C. The average annual rainfalls of the city are about 80 cm.”
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Flora and Fauna
Hands in Action!
“Falling under the category of tropical monsoon climate, it provides the perfect conditions for the growth of rosewood trees, a deciduous species. Mysore is home to a plethora of indigenous as well as exotic species of fauna, such as the Indian Hanging parrot, the Spot-billed duck, Darter frog, Spot-billed pelicans, etc.�
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PLACES2 VISIT
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MYSORE PALACE
T
he Mysore Palace was built over one thousand years ago, in AD 897. The palace has both Hindu as well as Muslim influences. After a fire in 1897, KrishnarajaWodeyar IV rebuilt the palace as we see it today, under the supervision of architect Henry Irwin. The main building is of massive gray granite with a tower covered by a gilded dome. A temple is situated within the royal courtyard.
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St. Philomenas Church
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t was constructed during 1956 in honor of St. Philomena. It gives you a great looks at evening when the church light up. This church is about 176 ft in height and the main hall of the cathedral is so wide that about 801 people can seat up at a time. It is one of the oldest churches in Mysore. Built in Gothic style, the church is among the largest in India. Stained glass windows and lofty towers give this cathedral an imposing look.
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JAGMOHAN PALACE
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t was constructed in 1861 by King Krishnaraja Wadeyor. But the palace was converted into an art gallery during 1915. You will discover some finest collections of antiques of S.L. Haldekar, Ravi Varma, Nicholas Royrick and many other artists. Musical clock of the palace is prime attraction.
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Chamundeshwari Temple
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t is one of the noted Hindu places of worship and is situated atop the Chamundi Hill. On way to the Chamundi Hills is the Lalitha Mahal, a guest palace now converted into a heritage hotel.
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Festivals
Hands in Action!
“Mysore being rich in it’s culture and heritage is a home for a lot of festivals. The Dasara festival is the most extravagant festival to be celebrated in Mysore. It is celebrated during the months of September and October and the whole city is lit up with vivid colours and decorations�
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Food and Market
Hands in Action!
“The cuisine of Mysore resembles to a large extent the Udupi cuisine. Rice is the staple food item used in cooking and various spices are also used. Mysore has also lent its name to the sweet-dish Mysore Pak and the Mysore Masala Dosa.�
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We’re
the Pulse Of the City !
For short distances within the city use auto-rickshaws ( 3-wheeler taxi) or the city bus. Both are popular means of city transport. While the bus option is a lot cheaper, auto-rickshaws can take you to any place in the city at the convenience of a private transport.
You can explore a great many parts of this city by walk. In fact heritage walk is an idea promoted to explore the landmarks in the city center. Some places like the market areas are better enjoyed by walk.
Booking a cab for the day is another popular option to explore the sites in and around the city. Usually cabs are hired for a full day through an agency or through the hotel’s travel desk. Another fancy thing available in the city is the Tonga (horse cart). Mainly aimed at the tourists, Tongas are traditional way to explore the city, as it once was the main mode of transport in this city. You can find them near popular tourist hot spots like the palace, railway station etc.
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TRIN TRIN CYCLES, MYSORE TrinTrin is the Public Bike Share (PBS) system of Mysuru, a world enowned heritage city, the cleanest city of India and the cultural capital of the state of Karnataka in southern India. By virtue of its lifestyle, history, geography and environmentfriendliness, Mysuru pre-eminently qualified for the service of such a system. Trin Trin is a Government of Karnataka project, partially funded by the World Bank under the Global Environment Facility (GEF) Grant. The project is planned and implemented by the Directorate of Urban Land Transport and Mysuru City corporation
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KEEPTHEM LOCKED,
BUT NOT ‘BLOCKED’
Procedure
TrinTrin facility can be accessed through a “4-R” procedure: Register -> Release-> Ride -> Return
Register
Register Online OR Download TrinTrin smartphone app OR Register at any TrinTrin registration centers. After registration is completed, members will be issued a TrinTrin smartcard
Follow traffic rules and ensure safety.
Return
Slide the bicycle-clip firmly into an empty dock and make sure that bicycle is properly locked by gently pulling on the bicycle. Wait for “Transaction Completed” light to blink. Observe that “Ready” LED light is turned on, Bicycle return process is now complete Tap your smart card at the Kiosk to update your card.
Release
Place the TrinTrin smartcard on the reader next to the required bicycle. Observe that all LED lights blink. The Bicycle is now unlocked and released
for use.
Ride
Ride alertly and responsibly.
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We’re Inlay!
The craft we got a chance to study is Mysore Rosewood Inlay, first adapted from the Persian style of marble inlay to wood inlay. uuu
We’re Mysuru!
Mysore (or Mys in India’s southw Karnataka state capital of the Kin Mysore from 13
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suru), a city western e, was the ngdom of 399 to 1947 uuu
“Beauty
in every texture you feel” 27
Rosewood Inlay of Mysore: “Seven or eight of us work on one piece. I do the Inlay work and polishing whle i know others too.” Rosewood inlay work, practised for many centuries in and around Mysore, has always enjoyed the patronage of the Maharajas of Mysore. The Persian art of Inlay, also known as Khatam, was adapted to “Earlier, we used to work with ivory and deer horn but now we do inlay work with plastic and different naturally coloured wood, which makes the piece very colourful.” this form of wood inlay by the artists brought to the south of India by Tipu Sultan. The intricate rosewood inlay work shows an extraordinary sophistication of workmanship. Diligent craftsmen carefully etch designs narrating stories
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of the past on its surface. Traditionally, craftsmen painstakingly assembled ivory to fit into the etched grooves. But today, due to the ban on ivory, craftsmen meticulously inlay woods of different colours, acrylic, shell or plastic to create these impeccable works of art. The craft of rosewood inlay has evolved to satisfy modern trends. Rosewood doors, chests, mirrors, coffee tables, boxes, partition screens, cupboards, cabinets and dining tables decorated with inlay work are part of the wide range of products that fit in harmoniously in modern day dwellings.
We’re Craft !
Md. Imran Age : 52 Working Since 1987 29
We’re History !
Tools never made any difference in this craft.
Tools:
The most unique thing of this craft is that the tools which are used in this craft has never changed with the time plus everything is done with the hands without any use of machinary.
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1. Pencils/Pen 2. Paper – gateway sheets 3. Sandpaper – of high grit size
6. Ara (Filer) 7. Hand Saw 8. Hammer 9. Varnish 10. Polish 11. Fevicol 12. Wood Powder 13. Araldite (white and yellow, mixed in a 1:1 ratio) – substitute for fevicol 14. Hand buffing machine The tools are easily available and sourced from the local market and some of them are modifi ed according to ease of use by the artisans.
“With few artisans entering the field, the craft form can survive for 25 to 30 years, but nothing can be said after that,” 4. Hand bow 5. Chiran (Chisel) of varying sizes used for etching
Hands in FINGER Action!
with tools!
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Seasoning
Sketching
Fitting
Shape Cutting
Leveling
Chiseling
Engraving
Polishing
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he main material for Rosewood Inlay is wood which is either directly auctioned or is bought directly from the market in “Chekkae”, where one chekkae is equal to 3 x 7 inches and the rates depend upon the quality of the wood. The whole process of the Inlay could be divided into the following: • Seasoning • Sketching • Shape cutting • Chiselling • Fitting • Levelling • Engraving
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1.
Seasoning
Hands in Action!
“Seasoning of wood comprises of drying up the moisture from the freshly cut wood to make it crack free. It is seasoned in factories, in large furnaces where the wood is treated to a certain temperature.�
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2.
Sketching
Hands in Action!
“The design of the art piece is finalized and drawn on a paper and colours are marked on the drawing.�
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3.
Shape Cutting
Hands in Action!
“After the sketches are done, its then stuck on the wood and cut into shapes with the help of a blade. It approximately takes one full day for a table, sofa and the other big products to cut all the pieces into shapes. this process is more complicated, all of it depends upon the skill of the artisan.�
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4.
Chiseling
Hands in Action!
“Chiseling of the wood is done with the help of a hammer and a shading tool. the artisan uses a block of wood to chisel to lay the inlay in it.the depth of it would be around 3 mm.�
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5.
Fitting
Hands in Action!
“After chiseling, the cut out pieces are then fitted into the empty voids after applying it with a coat of adhesive and rosewood powder mixture.�
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6.
Leveling
Hands in Action!
“After the surface has been dried, a thick paste of rosewood powder mixed with water is applied on the surface of the setting and left to dry for another half an hour. After which the mixture is scrapped off from the surface leaving it leveled and giving a lustrous effect.�
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7.
Engraving
Hands in Action!
“Engraving results in the process of adding details to the motifs and the figures with the help of the shading tool.�
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8.
Polishing
Hands in Action!
“The last step comprises of polishing the whole of the product with the desired varnish to give it a lustrous look.�
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Motifs and Shapes
“The main motifs and patterns comprise of palmotifs. The main elements are majorly formed with lines, with the occasional use of a dot at a at the focal point of the main motif.”
“The overall pattern or design of the rosewood inlay has seven sections. The very first section comprises of either floral motifs or animal motifs. These animals are specically either elephants or horses and may or may not be accompanied by men from the Dussera scenes. The second section comprises of only floral motifs. The third section comprises of either animal or floral motifs. The consequent next two sections comprises of a double lined thin border known as ‘Dhassi’ which are thin strips of acrylic sheet that are cut out and placed in circular manner along the border line. The last section, also being the central floral section, has the larger ratio in terms of space and must comprise scenes from Dussera.”
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Hands in Action! Products
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Hands in Action! Products
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Hands in Action! Products
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Hands in Action! Products
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We’re Art !
Unknown craft workers who have been working for year with the same passion and dedication... So in this chapter we will be having some case studies... uuu
We’re Mysuru!
Mysore (or Mysu in India’s southw Karnataka state capital of the Kin Mysore from 13
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uru), a city western e, was the ngdom of 399 to 1947 uuu
“Art
without heart is craft”
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We’re Creating Art !
Arun Fine Art Arun Fine Arts, started by Mr. L. Nagarajan(a National Awardee) in the year 1968, is one of the biggest private factories in Mysore, and the most evolved in terms of the designs used. Now, managed completely by his nephew, Mr. Ashok Kumar, the factory is now a major exporter of Patchwork, also known as Marquetry in Europe, to foreign markets, UK being their biggest customer. Ashok Kumar, practising the craft for almost 20 years, has pioneered contemporary designs in a craft that was brought out as part of traditions. He has made the craft not only grow in the city and country, but in the world, as well. Also, working with him is an Australian couple, Mr. Varis and his wife, Catherine, who have started a concept of Skills Tourism, where they teach tourists who come to visit Mysore, how to do Patchwork and inlay, and other crafts like block printing, etc. This couple has been settled in India for more than 2 years now and have globalised Mysore Rosewood crafts.
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Hands in Beyond Action! Art
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We’re Passion ! Majeed Fine Arts Owner: Habeeb Ur Rahman Work: Majeed Fine arts was started by Asif Khan’s father Majeed Khan, forty years ago. There are three branches in Karnataka from which one of them is located in Mysore. The workshop is located in Mandi Mohalla, Mysore. Habeeb Ur Rahman started working at Majeed Fine Arts at a very young age, it was his interest in this field that took him to into this profession. It is a family business, where his siblings and him are taking forward their father’s work. Today, majeed fine arts have clients mostly from South India, especially Andra Pradesh. They get their wood supply: Madkari city ( coorg), Forest department. Honours: National Award 1991 - 92 - Late. Majeed Khan National Award 1997 - Rahman Khan State Merit Award 2003 - Habeeb Ur Rahman
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Hands in Action! Awards &
Work Space
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Glossary:
Mahisuru - ancient name for mysore Dhoodhi - white tinted wood Dhassi - border of thin strips of acrylic sheet Gesso - A paste made that is used in Mysore painting to give it an embossed effect Arabic gum - adhesive used to make gesso paste
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Bibiliography:
Cluster Documents by NIFT Deccan Herald www.wikipedia.org Dsource.com/rosewood inlay
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Acknowledgement: We would like to thank NIFT for giving us the opportunity to document and be a part of the crafts in Mysore. We would also like to thank Mr. Sanjeev CM for guiding and giving us feedback regarding the progress of the document. This document would not have been possible without the help of the artists and artisans who have showed us the value of the crafts. Last but not the least, we would also like to thank Mr. KC Prashanth and other faculties of Fashion Communication department for their guidance.
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