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Wine Tasting Daily PARAISOVINEYARDS.COM FACEBOOK.COM/PARAISOVINEYARDS TWITTER.COM/PARAISOVINEYARD Page 2 | Winter 2013
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Table of Contents
Publisher Jeremy Burke
General Manager Victoria Nelson
Editor
Tom Dunlap
Editorial
Laura Ness, Todd Guild Tarmo Hannula, Roseann Hernandez
Photography Tarmo Hannula
Advertising
Sheryl Bailey, Jeanie Johnson, Tina Chavez, Susie Ronzano, Amanda Ochoa, Chelsea Johnson, Jillian Hogan
Production Darryl Nelson
Design
Jeremy Burke VINO is published quarterly by the Register-Pajaronian. All rights reserved, material may not be reprinted without written consent from the publisher. VINO made every effort to maintain the accuracy of information presented in this publication, but assumes no responsibility for errors, changes or omissions.
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Jason-Stephens Winery 11775 Watsonville Road | Gilroy, California 95020 408-846-8463 Follow us on Facebook!
[www.JStephens.com]
B U T TER F IE LD S TAT I O N WINERY LOCALLY OWNED FAMILY RUN BUSINESS Our award-winning wines have great flavor and finesse. Look for our wines in your local market or wine store for your next event or holiday party. Find out more: 831.219.9100 www.butterfieldstationwinery.com www.epic-wines.com
• Grass-fed, grass finished beef from N-A Ranch in Santa Cruz • Pasture raised pigs from Devil’s Gulch Ranch in Nicasio • Pasture raised coastal lamb from Marin Sun Farms in the Bay Area Food Shed • Only locally sourced & local seasonal organic ingredients • Custom sausage blend, custom cutting & cured meats
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Paul and Amy Kemp Loma Prieta: King of Pinotage.
Amy Kemp has influenced the grape choices at Loma Prieta. Photo contributed
Laura Ness VINO
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ave you ever tried Pinotage? If not, winemaker and proprietor Paul Kemp would love to make a convert out of you. Give him 10 minutes, and he’ll explain the whole proposition to you. Would you even consider taking a varietal nobody ever heard of and turning it into your total focus as a winery, even though you’ve already won a bazillion awards for your Pinots and other normal sounding wines, like Cab, Viognier and Merlot? Would you further take the rather scary plunge of grafting some of your fabulous estate Pinot to this varietal, at 2,600 feet in the Santa Cruz Mountains? After all, there are only 40 acres of Pinotage in all of California, and it’s pretty much planted below 1,800 feet. Contrast that with nearly 80k acres of Cabernet. Clearly, Pinotage is far, far from the mainstream. Is it insanity to bet the farm on something so obscure? Insane. Yep, that’s pretty much what everyone
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says. But you don’t know Kemp, the bull-doggedly determined owner of Loma Prieta Winery, high above the Monterey Bay with views of the entire Santa Cruz coastline, clear north to Half Moon Bay. Nothing can stand in his way, because he’s a personal injury lawyer who is used to taking a case to the judge and winning. If you accuse Kemp of being a back-seat winery owner, he’ll strongly disagree. Or perhaps treat you to a visit to his cellar, where he’ll scare the living daylights out of you by whipping his forklift around like it was a toy train. He learned to operate one in a warehouse when he was a teenager, and it serves him well to stack and retrieve cases from the monolithic mountain of wine stored here. In fact, the cases tower above you like the namesake of the place: Loma Prieta Mountain dominates the horizon to the east of the winery, just like the Pacific dominates the landscape to the West. This epicenter of the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake was near here, and the custom-label Amy and Paul commissioned by New Orleans artist Martin LaBorde depicts Bodo, the fanciful magician who appears in all of LaBorde’s work, flying over Loma Prieta Mountain, a glass of
Pinot in hand, seeking to calm the mountain’s nerves. A jagged red line at the mountain’s base represents the faultline that runs through it and the energy of the magnitude 7.0 quake that took 63 lives and caused chaos in the lives of many throughout the neighboring mountain communities. Not to mention significant damage to freeways and bridges that is still being dealt with more than 20 years later. Loma Prieta Winery is perched so high, that the curvature of the earth becomes a reality here. Your breath is literally taken away at the complete magnificence of this perspective that only buzzards and hawks usually enjoy. Can they really grow grapes here, you wonder? It would be a wonderful site for Chardonnay, except for one small problem. Kemp’s wife, Amy, also an attorney who runs their law office, likes big reds. No Chard for her. Consequently, Kemp planted Pinot, Merlot and Cabernet at this 2,600foot spot with a clear maritime influence. In certain years, the Merlot and Cab can be great, with the Pinot pretty much always coming in with grace under pressure. But once Kemp
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caught Pinotage fever, those Merlot and Cabernet vines had to kiss their trellises goodbye. They’re now Pinotage, and if this harvest is any indication, it’s an amazing site for this varietal. What is Pinotage, anyway? It’s a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, a Rhone grape with a thick skin to tolerate hot summer sun, which is just what they have in South Africa. The Afrikaners loved their Burgundy and wanted to grow Pinot Noir here, but the climate didn’t favor it. So, Pinotage was created in South Africa in 1925 by Abraham Izak Perold, the first Professor of Viticulture at Stellenbosch University. It is the most widely planted grape in South Africa, and it is the wine Denzel Washington thinks of during his dying moments at the end of “Safe House.” The movie happens to be set in South Africa. Says DW to his co-star, “You smell like Pinotage, a local grape: a nice wine.” He’s seen frequently drinking red wine throughout the movie, and one assumes it’s Pinotage. What does it taste like, you may ask? A short and accurate answer would be Pinot Noir on steroids. Pinotage, at least as crafted by Loma Prieta Winery, has all the racy red fruits of Pinot Noir, with more dark plumminess, chocolate and brown sugar. It’s richer, denser and walks with Dexter work boots, rather than with the ballet slippers of say, a typical Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir. Kemp engages the services of winemaker Paul Wofford to makes Loma Prieta’s stable of wines, that now include Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah, several vineyard designates of Pinotage, Cabernet and Merlot. The latter will
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be phased out in favor of, guess what? Pinotage, naturally. The low-key, affable Wofford has his own brand in the Sierra Foothills town of Camino, called Wofford Acres Vineyards. It’s in the Apple Hill area of El Dorado county. He’s been making wines for over 30 years, including stints at Martin Ray and Bargetto Winery, following graduation from Fresno State and cellar education at Clos du Val and Zaca Mesa. His business clients include St. Amant Winery and Port Works, Vino Con Brio Winery, Trout Gulch Vineyards, Hunter Hill Winery, Loma Prieta Winery and California Cellars. He’s really having fun with the Pinotage, a varietal he introduced Kemp to while making his Viognier from the Amarosa Vineyard in Lodi. He thinks the whole obsession with Pinotage as somewhat amusing, but he can’t argue with the varietal’s appeal. Loma Prieta has probably the nations’ first, if not sole, Pinotage Only Wine Club. Now that Kemp has thrown his chips on the Pinotage slot of the roulette wheel, he’s earnestly developing his single vineyard programs, seeking to express the special voice of each site. This year brought a particularly bountiful harvest to Loma Prieta, where they picked nearly 7 tons of estate Pinot Noir, along with 2 tons of estate Pinotage. “Last year,” says Kemp of the 2011 vintage, “we got less than a barrel’s worth of estate Pinotage.” For 2012, he’ll have around 4. Kemp also sourced another 23 tons of Pinotage from the Amarosa Vineyard in Lodi as well as from the Karma Vineyard in Amador. In vintages 2010 and 2011, he also got some
Pinotage from the Sierra Ridge Vineyard, also in Amador. This year, however, the owner had a fire in the vineyard, torching the crop. Of all the ones I’ve tasted so far, the Estate is the closest to Pinot Noir, while the 2010 Sierra Ridge presents a rather spicy take, with pleasing flavors of angostura bitters and Lea & Perrins Worcestershire interweaving with pomegranate and red plums, finishing with a touch of caramelized light brown sugar. The 2010 Amarosa Pinotage, the current vintage, has won more medals than any wine Paul has yet entered into a wine competition, and he enters them all. It’s rich, heady, fruit-forward, soft and beckoning, with all the fabulous flavors of ripe fig-onion jam, curry, plums, coffee and toffee. It fires on all cylinders. Pinotage, from 2008 through 2010, for $120. This could be the perfect gift for the wine snob on your list that supposedly knows, and has tasted, everything. Because one thing’s for sure, unless they’re already Loma Prieta Wine Club members, they haven’t tasted anything quite like this lineup. Visit Loma Prieta Winery every weekend from noon til 5pm. www.lomaprietawinery. com
Winter 2013 | Page 7
WINEMAKERS
Burrell School Unlocking the scents of the late harvest
Laura Ness VINO
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he latter part of the calendar year can be scary for winegrowers, because of the proposition of rain followed by cool, dank skies. That can breed big trouble in the form of powdery mildew and bunch rot. And although some wines, specifically Sauternes, require the “noble rot” of botrytis to achieve its classic sweet flavors, it’s not a friend of most wine grapes. And it can be a mean trick for grape farmers. Do you ever wonder why some vineyards are all picked clean by mid October and others are still laden with fruit, netted and waiting for whatever it is that signals ripeness? A gorgeous crop of Petite Sirah, with its tight-fisted bunches, can go from beautiful to complete disaster in just a couple of days, and there’s nothing you can do about it. Except to pick before it rains, and then it might be just too early. The sugar levels might be there, but
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the flavors won’t be. Or the seeds will still be green, a sure signal that the fruit is just not ready to pick. Weathering the storm is easier for some varieties than others. It’s all about the architecture of the grape varietal. Petite Sirah has very tight clusters, allowing almost no airflow, so once mold starts to grow, it’s done for. Some clones of Pinot and Chardonnay also have this tendency, as do Nebbiolo and Sangiovese. They can be lost in a matter of days if it rains and remains cloudy and cool. Rain followed by warm, windy days usually is not a problem. And there are sprays that can be safely applied to fend off infection, although growers want to avoid this. Cabernet Sauvignon, with its more open architecture, allows air flow, enabling it to survive through late season rains, as it pokes along to ripeness. Merlot, too, is remarkably moisture tolerant, and is also a long, slow ripener, often latest to the crushpad. The Central Coast is known for some laterripening varietals. Bargetto Winery in Soquel farms a
considerable variety of grapes in its Regan Vineyard in Corralitos, an area known for its long, even ripening season, usually free from the intense heat spikes of the Summit Road area. Director of Winemaking John Bargetto, spoke highly of his Nebbiolo and Refosco, two of three Italian varietals that make their way into the ultra-premium “La Vita” blend. A late-ripener, Nebbiolo is known for its high acid, and is the primary grape of Italy’s famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines. Also tardy grape is the late-ripening Mount Eden clone of Chardonnay. Smaller of bunch and berry than the more widely planted Clone 4 or Wente Clone of Chardonnay, Mount Eden is high in acid and the cooler the climate, the longer it takes to reach maturity of flavor. But the flavors are worth the wait. Already picked, starting in early October, were Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Dolcetto. Overall, John Bargetto seems exceedingly pleased with this year’s harvest, especially compared to the last two vintages, which have been a challenge. Says Bargetto, “The 2012
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vintage, our 80th, has been outstanding with above average yields, clean fruit, ripe grapes with great flavor. Yet, with the heat in early October (100 degrees), and some rain, we still sweat this time of year...until the last grape is harvested.” Winemaker and physician Wells Shoemaker, MD, of Aptos, scaled back the number of varieties he’s crushing for his Salamandre label this year, due to his to exhaustive and time-consuming efforts towards making sure that health care reform lives up to its promises. “This is the time in my life when I can really make a difference, and I’m committed to seeing this through. We really have no other choice as a society,” says Shoemaker. “Health care reform is driven by economic need, not by social virtue. Our costs were crippling our ability to compete.” That said, he loves harvest, and eagerly anticipates its excitement and tension, despite its grueling hours. He’s been at it for 28 consecutive harvests now and has learned a few things along the way. Like the fact that Primitivo likes to take its sweet time, and so fond is he of this grape, identical to Zinfandel, he will travel 100 miles to San Ardo to fetch it. A hot, parched spot in southern Monterey County, San Ardo is ideal for late ripeners like Primitivo that need significant heat summation. Primitivo has huge clusters, with tightly-packed berries and thin skins that cannot tolerate moisture of any kind. Says Shoemaker, “Primitivo will not be saved by blow-drying!” a trick often used by desperate grape growers to save their wet fruit. Last year, the early, heavy October rains totally destroyed his Primitivo crop. He’s brought in all his Chardonnay, which came in early in October, showing nice hints of tropical fruit, followed by the Corralitos Pinot on October 20th. “Right on schedule,” says Shoemaker. “We call it the “U. C.” clone: meaning unknown clone.” One vineyard he’s been sourcing from since 2004, was hit by mildew, so no Pinot from Meadow Ridge in 2012. But 2011’s Pinot has him waxing positively poetical. “Last year’s Pinot will be killer! Small crop, huge flavors. Might be the best in 10 years.” Perhaps even more vulnerable is Sauvignon Blanc, with its very weak skins and huge, tight bunches. Says Shoemaker, “When it rains, you’d better pick within a day or two, or get ready to cry.” This year, he was able to pick Sauv Blanc on October 10th. Last year, he let it hang until mid-November and made a fabulous Late Harvest which more than made up for the anxiety of waiting for it to come in. “You need a thick skin to deal with the anxiety of harvest,” he says, always the philosopher. And always the ready punster. Says Shoemaker of the 2011 Late Harvest SB, “I took it to the beach, and I saw terns.” Pauses to make sure I got the joke. (Sauternes, France’s most sought after dessert wine, is made from Sauv Blanc grapes that have been infected with botrytis, giving it an other worldly sweet richness somewhere between honey and butterscotch.) “But I wouldn’t share it with them,” he adds, with that trademark twinkle in his eyes. “I’ve been picking from that vineyard in Arroyo Seco since 1978, when the vines were slender young things. Now they’re old and wrinkled: nothing like me.” Those vines, like the good doctor himself, will certainly continue to rely on a sound constitution and a good sense of humor to cope with the vagaries of Mother Nature. It’s not like they have much choice.
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WINEMAKERS
Guglielmo Brothers Guglielmo: From our family to your table
From left: George, Gary and Gene Guglielmo. Photo contributed
Laura Ness
J
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ust minutes from the Silicon Valley, the Santa Clara wine region still looks and feels much as it did a century ago. Here, the wine tasting experience at the 30-some small wineries is laid back, casual and welcoming: a lot like the weather, which is temperate and Mediterranean, perfect for grape growing. Guglielmo Winery, founded in 1925, is the oldest continually operating and family-owned winery in the region. Three brothers oversee the bustling operation, which custom crushes and private labels for many clients, as well as for the winery’s own brands. Elder brother George Guglielmo oversees winemaking operations, while middle brother Gene works with the many retail shops and restaurants that have carried the wines for decades. Youngest sibling Gary handles the business operations as general manager. Until recently, their late mother, Madeline,
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was a guiding force and visible presence at all the winery’s public events. It is truly a family affair, and even though the facility crushes over 150k cases annually, only a small portion of the wine produced bears the Guglielmo family name on the front label. Tasting here at the beautiful and charming old tasting room, surrounded by the Italianate courtyard, is relaxed, and the friendly staff pours something for everyone, from old-worldstyle blends (some still sold in refillable jugs: a trend that’s coming back around in the form of “growlers”), to the top-of-the-line Private Reserve wines that sport a handsome white tablecloth appropriate label. These wines, as well as the affordable TRE line, named for the third generation of the Guglielmo family, continue to garner awards from renowned competitions and publications. With accolades have come increased awareness and foot traffic, and the retail business has doubled over the last year. Winter is a great time to relax in the flowerfilled piazza by splashing fountains, enjoying a bottle of award-winning Guglielmo wine
as you watch hawks soar over the splendidly colored vineyards. The Villa Emile Event Center provides an historic venue for private events and corporate affairs, and the past is really present in every beam and board of this old barn turned celebration center. If you want to sniff the aromas of Prohibition, ask for a peak into the old underground cellar, where wines were ensconced in huge redwood tanks before being secretly transported to someone’s dinner table. The brothers like to tell the story of their grandparents delivering wine in barrels and kegs to their accounts up and down the peninsula as they traveled by horse and wagon, and later by truck, between their home in San Francisco and their winery property in Morgan Hill. “It was a lot like the milkman’s delivery route,” says Gary Guglielmo. “The customer would leave their empties on the front porch and my grandfather would replace them with filled ones.” Some of the old-time customers still bring in their jugs for refilling, with Emile’s blends remaining popular with that crowd. The
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younger set, however, tends to gravitate toward the Private Reserve, a line of hand-crafted wines that come primarily from the Estate vineyards, and from select sources in the Santa Clara Valley and Monterey. Winemakers George Guglielmo and Alan Dewitt set the bar higher with each vintage. The 2010 Pinot Noir, sourced from the Santa Lucia Highlands, garnered a gold medal at the 2012 Pinot Shootout, and is perfect for any holiday table. The tangy Sangiovese, crisp Grignolino, spicy Barbera, chocolatey Charbono and succulent Pinot Grigio do their Italian heritage proud. Grignolino, a grape native to Piedmont, is rare in California. Planted to honor the family’s Northern Italian and Swiss heritage, Guglielmo sometimes make Grignolino as a rose, other times, as a red table wine. Both are bright and sassy, with ample acidity and very low alcohol. The Charbono and Barbera are exquisite examples of how Italian grapes can be made to shine in a truly Mediterranean climate, with a California twist of softness. That same climate also makes Santa Clara “Rhone Central,” and the winery’s depth in Rhone varietals was rewarded with gold medals in the 2012 Rhone Shootout for the 2011 Marsanne, 2009 Syrah, 2008 Petite Sirah and
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2009 Carignane. The latter is truly an intriguing animal. So, too, the estate Merlot, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel are standards of measure for classically made wines in the traditional style, with modest oak, restrained alcohol levels, and affordable price points. That’s the reason you’ll find Guglielmo wines on the lists of virtually every major restaurant and relaxed, unhurried wine tasting, with the sense wine bar in the region. And, thanks to multiple of history all around you. www.guglielmowinery.com distribution agreements, wine lovers in China 1480 East Main Ave, Morgan Hill, CA 95037 are enjoying a taste of California’s original wine 408-779-2145 region as well. Guglielmo Winery is open 7 days a week from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m., so you can get your old-world fix of time-honored family hospitality any time you miss the “old days” of
Winter 2013 | Page 11
WINEMAKER
Steve McIntyre Doctor DiVine: keeps the vines in line
Steve McIntyre inspects some vines. Photo contributed
Laura Ness VINO
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teve McIntyre’s deepest desire was to be a musician, but when he got to college at Fresno State, he says he found out he didn’t have any talent. Well, that’s just him being modest, something he comes by naturally. He’s actually a pretty decent crooner if you give him a guitar and keep the dial set to country or James Taylor. He’s so self-effacing and gentle, he practically has “Aw, shucks,” tattooed across his forehead. “Musicians,” he says, “are servants to other people’s emotions, giving folks pleasure. With our family of wines, we strive to create something sensual, like music, which brings joy and inspiration, and is a reflection of our vineyard.” Like I said, aw shucks. But he means it. You won’t find a more laid back, cool, calm and collected viticulturist in all of Monterey: He’s the kind of guy you want in charge of your vineyard, and for more than three decades, he and his company, Monterey Pacific, have been the go-to source for vineyard installation and management, planting vineyards throughout
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Monterey county for Smith and Hook, Galante, Bonny Doon, Mondavi and Joseph Phelps. He’s grown grapes for Morgan, Williams Seylem, Artesa, La Rochelle, McCrostie, Jordan and Marilyn Remark, to name just a few. Steve practically wrote the book on certified organic farming and was heavily involved in the SIP Certified program, bringing many of the Monterey vineyards into compliance. Green is among his favorite colors: just look at his wine label and website. Steve and his wife, Kimberley, are also partners in The Monterey Wine Company, producing wines for Bonny Doon, Caymus, Hess Collection and Hahn Estates, among others. I jokingly call him Doctor Kildare of the Vine, hence his nickname, Dr. DiVine. McIntyre is presently caring for vineyards in Monterey for the likes of Wrath, with whom he has a special partnership. Wrath winemaker, Sabrine Rodems, considers him a critical part of her winemaking team: It all starts with the best fruit. She also considers McIntyre Winemaker Byron Kosuge, a true master of Chardonnay and Pinot, and relies on his guidance to craft her stellar cellar treasures.
In fact, Pinot Noir fruit from Steve’s own personal eponymous Santa Lucia Highlands (SLH) vineyard turned into a stunning masterpiece in the hands of Sabrine for the nothing less than blockbuster 2010 Wrath McIntyre Vineyard designate, which scored a whopping 94 points from Wine Spectator. And the 2010 Wrath McIntyre vineyard Chardonnay, also crafted by Sabrine with some help from Kosuge, is as light and lovely as a white-gloved Blythe Danner, oozing white peaches and lime. Classy and classic. From vineyards to wine Twenty-five years ago, Steve and his wife Kimberly bought their own piece of paradise in the Santa Lucia Highlands. It was March 7, 1987. Steve recalls that day vividly. As he surveyed the deplorable condition of the vineyard on this 80 acre parcel, he had a moment of deep doubt: “What have I gotten myself into?” Although much of the certifiedsustainable vineyard has since been replanted, it still boasts the oldest pinot plantings in the Santa Lucia Highlands, about 24 acres of ownrooted “Heritage clone” Pinot installed by the McFarland family in 1973 for use in sparkling.
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Steve still makes money off those vines, as they crop at 5 to 6 tons per acre, so he happily lets them do their thing. But the real keys to the kingdom are the younger (now nearly 20 years old themselves) Chardonnay and Pinot vines planted here that in the hands of winemaker Byron Kosuge turn into liquid gold. McIntyre began as a wine brand with its first vintage in 2005 and has been turning out splendid renditions of Pinot, Chardonnay and sparkling from the Santa Lucia Highlands, along with a small bit of Merlot from their home vineyard, named for his wife Kim, whose passion in life is raising Bernese mountain dogs. Critical acclaim has been achieved for all three varietals, with the 2009 K-1 Block Chardonnay recently garnering 91 points from Wine Enthusiast, praised for its concentration and silky minerality. It’s rich layers of hazelnut, apricot, nectarine and sublime undertone of key lime pie make this something you want to savor. Steve explains that the vines in Block 1 of his SIP certified vineyard are thinned to one cluster per shoot, dramatically dropping yields, but intensifying the resulting wine to the point of restrained hedonism. The chilled grapes were whole cluster pressed and then fermented at 55 degrees in Siruge French barrels. The wine was aged for 8 months in a good deal of new French oak, and underwent malolactic, encouraging even more richness to the texture. Byron Kosuge: Winemaker of few words When you meet Byron, you get instantly why Steve likes him and why Steve chose him as his winemaking partner. The two of them practically out-modest one another. Neither likes to talk about themselves too much, but they’ll talk vineyards and viticulture all day long. Byron is quiet, reserved and very much a man of few, very carefully chosen words. If Steve is the grape whisperer, byron is the grape channeler. He makes wines for quite a number of boutique labels (Miura, Aiena, Foghorn) plus his own brand, B. Kosuge, sources fruit from many premium vineyards, and he seems to be quite good at getting the site to show through in the finished product. Educated at UC Davis where his father was a professor, Kosuge is a master of Pinot Noir, having spent 15 years at Saintsbury. His passions are Pinot and Syrah, because that’s what he likes to drink — pretty straightforward — and he sources from some of the best vineyards in California, including McIntyre, Hirsch, Manchester Ridge, Hudson, Garys’ and Soberanes. He says that great vineyards are more than just site: They are great because of the talented and inspired people who tend the vines. While some might consider him a rock star winemaker, he flinches at the idea. He’s the antithesis of a celebrity-seeker, content to quietly make wines with a gentle touch, light on the oak, heavy on the site’s personality. So limited in production are all these wines that you won’t find them in many retail shops. Get them at the Tasting Studio in Monterey at the Hyatt or online. Sparkling Wine, $29 The non-vintage sparkling is a combo of Pinot and Chardonnay, and is made in the Methode Champenois style, so it’s authentically crafted with small bubbles, a heady bouquet of fresh baked sweet French baguettes and brioche topped with apple butter. It’s crisp, yet creamy and oh, so lipsmackingly delicious. They keep the wine en tirage (in the bottle prior to disgorgement) for at least two years, disgorging and finishing only enough sparkling to keep in the market for 6 to 9 months. Basically, they bottle when they need more
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product, guaranteeing freshness. New Girl on the Block: 2011 McIntyre Estate Chardonnay Ah, what little generosity the 2010 vintage offered was trumped only by the miserliness of 2011, yet the resulting wines are remarkable. Holy mackerel, this 2011 McIntyre chardonnay is off the hook. Everything is righteous about this wine: the ripe pear, brioche, apple fritter, lanolin, Meyer lemon acidity and a lush hint of key lime pie. The texture is totally gorgeous, satin-smooth and creamy, building to a mega honeyed finish reminiscent of baklava. Pairs just as nicely with fried calamari and rich clam chowder as it does with cannoli filled with basilhoneyed ricotta. Available now at $28 per bottle, as well as in splits ($15). 2008 McIntyre Pinot Noir Mission Ranch, $36 From heritage clones of Pinot, this wine has deep notes of earth, dark cherry and berry flavors woven around a spicy backbone of plentiful structure and intensity. this one will cellar beautifully, and has a texture imbued with the supple tannins that Pinot lovers seek: like a velvet hammer. McIntyre wines may be tasted and purchased daily at the McIntyre Vineyards Tasting Studio at the Monterey Hyatt Regency Hotel & Spa. Hours: Monday Wednesday 9am to 7pm & Thursday - Sunday 8am to 8pm 1 Old Golf Course Road Monterey, CA 93940 (831)649-WINE(9463) Taste@McIntyreVineyards. com www.mcIntyrevineyards.com
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WINEMAKER
Paul Clifton Hahn: Top of the world in the Santa Lucia Highlands
Winemaker Paul Clifton manages the many brands in the Hahn portfolio. Photo courtesy of Hahn Estate Wines.
Laura Ness VINO
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here are few properties in the Santa Lucia Highlands that have such deadon views of the entire Salinas Valley and the stunning Pinnacles National Monument at its eastern edge. Even fewer have their own unique bowls, valleys and peaks, creating a virtual Disneyland setup for a wine experience, which also encompasses multiple tasting room platforms, each with a unique perspective on the world below. Hahn Estates, the brainchild and progeny of Nicky and Gaby Hahn, has a wingspan of over 1k acres in Monterey, with 650 acres of them in the Santa Lucia Highlands (SLH). The gorgeous estate vines, which range from 200 to 1,200 feet in elevation, are fastidiously tended by Vineyard Manager Andy Mitchell, who has been carefully replanting underperforming varietals (Cabernet and Merlot) with new clones of Pinot, Chardonnay and Malbec. There are many brands in the Hahn
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portfolio, including Bin 36, Smith and Hook and Cycles Gladiator, but it’s the Hahn SLH Estates lineup that sets the real tenor of the company’s commitment to offering fine wines at reasonable price points. Captained by the talented and sure-voiced winemaker for all the many brands in the Hahn portfolio, Paul Clifton, with judicious assistance from winemaker Greg Freeman, the first releases include Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, and all are worthy standard-bearers for the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation, established in 1991 and spearheaded by Nicky Hahn himself. Recognizing the spectacular wines resulting from this narrow strip of east-facing land between the Salinas River Valley and the Carmel Valley and Pacific Ocean to the west, Hahn wrote to his neighbors in 1988, suggesting they create a separate AVA within the Monterey appellation. Of this SLH Estates series, winemaker Clifton, whose prior experience includes winemaking at Bernardus in Carmel Valley and at Byington in the Santa Cruz Mountains, says, “If a plot of land is planted with the right
varietal and managed in a balanced way, the quality of the grape coming off the vine is so superior that it is only necessary to introduce very basic winemaking techniques to produce a great wine. This being said, I can only say that it has been an incredible pleasure producing these four wines, because I was able to introduce very subtle, basic techniques, but that doesn’t mean I didn’t lose a hell of a lot of sleep thinking about it.” Perhaps this former firefighter turned winemaker and viticulturist loses a bit more sleep over the wines in Hahn’s high-end Lucienne brand, the feminine form of Nicky’s middle name, Lucien, which honors the namesake of the mountain range where the vineyards are located, Santa Lucia. Santa Lucia is the patron saint of light, appearing during the winter solstice wearing a crown of candles, bringing light to the darkness. Fittingly, her crown graces the Lucienne label. Lucienne seeks to epitomize the unique terroir of their SLH vineyards, in particular, that of the Doctor’s and Lone Oak Vineyards. Together, Clifton and Freeman have elevated
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the Pinots and Syrahs under the Lucienne label to a level on par with those from renowned producers like Testarossa and Wrath, making fruit from these vineyards more highly prized than ever. Enjoying a southeast exposure, these vineyards sit above the fog, where they enjoy maximum sunshine, before the inevitable arrival of the cool, afternoon maritime winds. Here, the growing season is long and even, producing Pinots of silky, graceful elegance, and Syrahs with velvety, yet powerful depth, like Humphrey Bogart in “Dark Passage.” All across the Hahn portfolio, the wines are solid, consistent and remarkable examples of price-performance. For example, if you have not heard of the Hahn GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) in the past year, you have perhaps been under a large wine barrel. The stuff is off the hook, and at $15, a paragon of well-deserved popularity and acclaim. The secret to the consistent excellence of all the Hahn wines lies somewhere between the intersection of perfect climate, ideal soils, wellchosen varietals and winemakers with backgrounds in viticulture, who know how to hold the reins gently. Safari through the vineyards at Hahn While most wineries might offer visitors a tour of the cellar, at Hahn, you can experience a true off-road adventure with their new ATV vineyard tours. Fall is the perfect time to schedule a unique vinerow-studded safari through the various blocks of Hahn’s fabulous estate vineyards, where you are always within a jaw-dropping view of what makes the SLH so special. Ride a quad up and down the steep rows, plucking fruit, if you’re lucky, drinking in the gorgeous autumn colors and watching raptors soar above you. Then take a tour through the cellar with tasting: all for a mere $45. If whacking vines at high speed isn’t your cup of tea, you can take a guided stroll through the demonstration vineyard, followed by an educational tasting of four handcrafted wines in a private room or in the Visitor’s Center ($25). You can make an entire day of it as well. Begin with Hahn’s unique Wine Country Tapas experience, as only Chef Brian Overhauser, who heads the culinary program at Hahn Estates, could deliver. He’s trademarked the term because, as he says, “SLH is the real wine country.” Schedule the Tapas experience, $25 per person, in advance. Held each Saturday, this is limited to 30 reservations per day. You’ll be treated to a handcrafted selection of artfully prepared seasonal dishes that accentuate everything that is unique and tempting about the Hahn wines crafted by winemakers Freeman and Clifton. The present focus is on the SLH series (HahnSLH.com) and spotlights the 2010 Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and newly released Syrah. The menu changes seasonally, and at the whim of the chef, who is overseeing the development of the region’s first culinary center, which will provide a wide range of educational and dining experiences for wine club members, dignitaries, visitors and locals alike. Overhauser’s recent Tapas offerings included a cheery chorus of crab, lobster claw, mango and spicy remoulade, topped with basil microgreens, all synchronized sweetly with the delightfully multi-layered 2010 SLH Chardonnay. This was a brilliant pairing, unfolding the citrus, the tropical, the anise, the minerality and the natural acidity of this sophisticated, yet not snooty, wine. The 2010 Pinot Noir worked beautifully with the Croque Madame dish, a richly crafted edifice of egg-soaked, béchamel-besotted ham and cheese delight, that packs the best of breakfast into a dish befitting any meal. The final wine in the lineup, the 2010 Syrah, seemed to have a prearranged wedding with the deconstructed Waygu short rib dish, cooked for hours, served over a puree of cauliflower, then topped with crispy kale. Being a Hahn Club Member here has its privileges, as release parties feature tastings on the upper deck, where a commanding view of the region goes as beautifully with the wines as the wines go with the expertly prepared culinary delights. Fittingly, Chef Overhauser is working with the winemakers to create his own line of food-friendly wines, called Chef ’s Table. Two standouts in the lineup are the 2011 Noir Blanc and the 201 Pinot Noir. The former, a rare
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execution of Pinot Noir featuring very little skin contact, preserves the essential sweet fruit without the tannins and stuffing that comes from the skins. In contrast, the 2010 Pinot Noir is a celebration of juicy dark cherry, meaty richness, where the earthy Pommard clone provides a beef salami note to underpin the gorgeous transparency of the red fruit of the Dijon clones that soar on the soprano scale. All the wines in the Chef ’s Table portfolio are acid-driven, endearing them to chefs who want wines with enough oomph to handle even the most complex and challenging culinary creations. It’s no secret that the focal point of Hahn’s wine experience is to unfold the unique personality of each handcrafted wine by pairing it with perfectly complimentary foods, creating a pleasurable and memorable experience that will call you home to the table again and again.
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WINEMAKER
Dan Karlsen It’s all about ties at talbott
Winemaker Dan Karlsen has earned acclaim of Talbott. Photo courtesy of Talbott Wineries.
Laura Ness VINO
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ake a careful look at the labels on a Talbott wine: each one bears a slightly different color-coded rendition of the family’s coat of arms. And each one directly honors a member of the Talbott family. The family ties are stronger than ever at this iconic winery, even if you didn’t know that proprietor, Robb Talbott, made his fortune making ties, scarves and ready-to-wear, long before the vineyards on River Road became part of the Talbott empire back in 1992. Here on River Road, in the beautiful Santa Lucia Highlands, Talbott has about 585 acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a bit of Riesling. Originally planted back in 1972, the famed Sleepy Hollow Vineyard is undergoing significant replanting, both to deal with disease (nematodes) and to replace underperforming vines with more suitable rootstock and clonal material. Talbott is replanting about 40 acres worth
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of vines, 15 to Pinot Noir (mostly Dijon – the “Boeing” clones, as my husband calls them 667 and 777), and 25 acres to three different clones of Chardonnay. The Riesling is being sacrificed for additional Dijon Pinot clones. Prized throughout the wine world, the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard is much sought after, but with the high acclaim the Talbott wines have been getting since Winemaker Dan Karlsen came on board in 2008, and with the drop in output due to grafting and replanting, only a miniscule quantity of this precious commodity will be shared with other wineries going forward. Talbott needs every last grape for their own production. Originally intending to be a marine biologist, Karlsen put himself through college (Sonoma State) as a plumber, carpenter and electrician: definte prerequisites for winemaking. After a post-graduation stint with the Oregon Forest Service, Dave landed a job as a maintenance mechanic at Dry Creek Vineyard. He was soon up to his elbows in grapes. From Dry Creek, he went to Domaine Carneros, then Taittinger, then to
Chalone, from whence he came to Talbott. Adjusting winemaking practices to better express the unique terroir of the site was P1. With a winemaking team largely imported from his prior gig at Chalone, Karlsen retooled the winemaking process, focusing on “producing perfection up front.” Gone are the augur screws and must pumps. He’s returned to gentle, traditional winemaking, with an emphasis on careful farming for flavors. Whole cluster press, no destemming of whites, restrained use of oak. He may be Norwegian, but he thinks French. Most American winemakers cold soak their Pinot. Nay, nay, not here at Talbot. Dan literally lets it cook. No dry ice here. Dan learned this technique while working in the cellar at the famous French Champagne house, Taittinger, where they engaged in warm fermentation of pinot to fully extract the color and texture from the skins. The result? You get enticing baked fruit pie aromas, with a full, rich mouthfeel, and the high energy of a fast-paced combined downhill ski race. The perfectly ripe fruit carries the
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amazingly high acidity that comes off the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard like the guy sweeps the girl over his head in pairs skating. Like the French, he believes in putting all his efforts into the first stages of production, to avoid issues downstream. “Fining agents are like prisons,” says Dan. “They ‘fix’ people, but they don’t come out right.” With new winemaking practices in place, he then turned his attention to the vineyards, adjusting pruning to control yields and vine balance, increasing the odds that the resulting wines will practically make themselves. Karlsen is a fanatic when it comes to vineyard practices. It shows in spades. The difference between the pre-Dan vintages and the current ones are as plain as stripes vs. paisley. Dan understands that wine always tastes better on its home turf. There is something about seeing the vines, experiencing their view, tasting their weather, and just feeling the vibe of the place, that helps you grok a wine on a deeper level. The Talbott tasting room on River Road, set right in the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, is welcoming and calming. It feels just right: like the wines. The tasting flights here are well orchestrated, and tasting bar associates effectively operate as river rafting guides, steering you down the seemingly endless set of tributaries that make up the Talbott wine watershed. You can confidently take a diverse set of palates to Talbott and everyone will go away happy. Begin with Kali Hart, the ubiquitous Talbott label (named for Rob’s daughter) that you’ll find at Safeway, made 80% steel and 20% neutral French for texture and a hint of sweet vanilla. It’s that middle of the road Chardonnay for wine drinkers who prefer that perfect kiss of fruit over stark minerality. Named for Robb’s son, the Logan label offers a lovely, more structured Chardonnay, with 80% fermented in French oak and 20% stainless to add that lively fresh fruit juiciness. Its delicate weave of lavender, wet river rock and slightly tropical nuances charm you from the outset, and the finish of bright apricots and persistent acidity reverberates forever. Fans of French oak will kneel reverently at the shrine of the Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay, prized for its French bakery aromas of brioche and apricot pastry. It’s loaded with toasted almonds, ripe apple and citrus zest. And then there’s the Diamond T Chardonnay, named for the Talbott’s Carmel Valley vineyard. It’s stacked like a stone fence with slatey minerality and an unctuous oiliness that rivets your attention. Created with the same measure of exacting care given to the great grand cru vineyards of France, Diamond T wines are a testimony to Robb Talbott’s determination to make the finest possible wines, regardless of the cost or effort required. Robb planted this 24-acre to the Corton-
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Charlemagne Chardonnay clone in 1982, in almost soil-free chalky shale on a 1,200foot mountaintop on Laureles Grade. Drip irrigation and conventional trellising are the preferred practices for this vineyard. Due to challenging growing conditions, crop yields are extremely low at Diamond T, typically less than one ton per acre. Eight miles from the Pacific, Diamond T has a southern exposure that benefits from cool ocean fog, both in the morning and the evening, leading to an extended growing season. Diamond T’s intensely flavored and beautifully concentrated grapes are used to make the limited Diamond T Chardonnay and the very limited Cuvée Audrey, named for Rob’s Mom. The wines are stunning. While the Diamond T is all about elegant minerality, the Cuvée Audrey is lavish with tropical fruit, finishing with toasted banana bread. It’s for the hedonistic at heart. A similar philosophy applies to the Talbott Pinot department as well, beginning with the pure rhubarb pie of the Kali Hart, and the more complex and layered Logan Pinot, which tends to combine fresh fruit with a distinctive forest and earth component. Always svelte and elegant, the Sleepy Hollow Pinot typically charms with aromas of strawberry jam, bursting with flavors of raspberry-filled linzer torte and bing cherries. Acrobatic balance! The Diamond T Pinot tempts with cedar and currant, racingly vibrant acidity, huge wood and a smoky finish, and is often tightly wound, requiring patience. A favorite of mine has always been the Cuvee RFT, named for Robb himself. Aged in 100% new French, this one
always packs plenty of earth, mushrooms and meaty, dark-hearted plums into a lean, multilayered wine that rewards decanting, and loves game. Talbott has been slowly transitioning to screw cap, with 60% of production going this route. Karlsen hopes all their high-end wines will eventually be finished with screwcap closures. Especially when it comes to Chardonnay, he’d rather not take his chances with cork taint. After all, when you have a vineyard as close to perfection as Sleepy Hollow, you want nothing in the way. So blessed with naturally abundant acidity are these wines, that they soar effortlessly, stretching their wings in graceful flight. To Dan, making wine is like nurturing children. “If you start to push the kid around, you end up with a lesser person – like if you have a kid born to be an artist and forced him to be a business major at Harvard.” While each Talbott wine bears homage to family ties on the label, there is nothing tying it down as it flows gracefully from your glass to your palate, an incomparable expression of place. Talbott has two tasting rooms: Talbott Estate Winery & Tasting Room 1380 River Road, Salinas Salinas CA 93908 Thursday - Monday from 11:00am until 4:30pm; Weekends until 5pm (831) 675-0942 winerytr@talbottvineyards.com Talbott Carmel Valley Tasting Room - 53 West Carmel Valley Road Carmel Valley, CA 93924 OPEN DAILY from 11:00am until 4:30pm, Weekends until 5pm (831) 659-3500 tastingroom@talbottvineyards. com.
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WINEMAKER
Dave Fleming Paraiso: In the heart of the valley
Winemaker Dave Fleming found a new oath after college. Photo by Daisy Chavez/VINO
Daisy Chavez VINO
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n the heart of the Salinas Valley sits Paraiso Vineyards, located slightly southeast of Soledad. For more than a decade now, Dave Fleming has been the winemaker for the vineyard and has worked on coming up with new innovative ways of creating tasty wines that everyone — with any amount of wine knowledge — can enjoy. “I enjoy meeting people,” Fleming said. “I am grateful that I create a beverage that people are coming to see.” For Fleming, his philosophy related to wine is something he constantly thinks about and shares with people that come into the tasting room waiting to taste the wine he works so hard to bottle. “So many people get intimidated by this product,” Fleming said. “As a wine industry, we have to do a better job at making the journey of wine consumption without judgment.” Paraiso tries to create the accessibility of their
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product to the masses -- from the wine experts to casual wine drinkers. Paraiso is known for its Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. “We offer the most differentiation of style of Pinot Noir,” Fleming said. “Artistically, we are making awesome Syrah.” Paraiso has about 450 acres at its location in Soledad, but that’s just the start. Paraiso’s grapes are spread up and down Highway 101, stretching from Gonzales to near the southern Monterey County line in Bradley, totaling up to 3,000 acres. Fleming said about 50 percent of the grapes are used for their wine and they don’t use any other grapes for their wine except what they grow. The winery is on the main Paraiso property, so the grapes do not travel too far. The vineyard company itself is run by Fleming’s in-laws; brother Jason Smith and father Rich Smith. As to what got Flemings into the winemakingbusiness, he said it was love. “I married the owner’s daughter (Kacy Fleming),” Fleming said. It was an unlikely career seeing as he graduated from the University of California, Davis with none other
than a psychology degree. “I found a different path when I fell in love. My father in-law (Rich) offered me a position, and I did it out of love and passion.” The vineyard has been there since 1973 when Rich Smith started the property and things fell into place. There has been an evolution and gradual change in the grapes lead by Fleming. “In my career, I have learned what was taught to me and when I received information — I tweaked it,” Fleming said. “I had to work my way through the process and monitor people and have them train me and absorb all that.” He took the profession and made a career out of the vines available with a twist. “The newer stuff (grapes) is what has given me the ability to be more artistic,” Fleming said. “They are a healthier, younger bunch.” Within the property, Fleming said he can appreciate the variations in grapes, including Wedding Hill, where he and his wife were married. “The fruit from that spot is majestic,” Fleming said. When these wonderful grapes were coming in, Fleming said he found his favorite block.
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“Block number seven is my favorite. We saw the different clones coming out and we were able to see that in our cellar. We worked backwards and it came out of that block. A lot of experimental things we do come from there.” Fleming also points out that there are many variables to creating a good wine. “Nothing is a simple recipe in wine. Mother nature changes that starting point and what we do with it.” He continued, “I like when people say ‘I don’t like that variety, but I like yours.’” What drives him is the desire to make a wine that puts a smile on everyone’s face, and he sums up his philosophy in an elevator speech. “I make world-class wine that helps people celebrate any occasion; what do you want to celebrate?” Fleming said. “It took me a long time to whittle it down and it’s changed a lot and will keep changing.” For more information visit www. paraisovineyards.com
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Restaurant
FEATURED FOODS
Tribute to the artisans Artisanal foods grow in popularity
Soif clerk Alyssa Twelker shows some of Soif ’s cast collection. Photos by Tarmo Hannula/VINO
Laura Ness VINO
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an cannot live by bread alone, nor can one exclusively dine on wine, so we thank all the artisan bakers, preservists and jamsters, chocolatiers, confectioners and other culinary specialists that keep our cupboards filled with things far more interesting than pancake mix, rice pilaf, beans, corn flakes, flour and molasses. Not that we have anything against that combination of raw ingredients that could probably yield something tasty in the hands of Food Network producers. In celebration of all things local, here are some local purveyors of particularly tasty treats all produced and made locally in the Santa Clara Valley. Thanks go to Caren Spotnick of Aver Family Vineyards for pulling together these artisans to create a day of indulgence in wine and food, which she calls man’s oldest art form. “Wine and food are at the heart of how a culture or
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community defines itself,” she notes. So she recruited a fine selection of artisans: individuals who handcraft goods with passion to please the senses, and created a “Gathering of Local Artisans,” at Aver Family Vineyards, where artisan wines met their food love match. “What better way to sustain and feed your imagination?” says Caren. Not to mention to feed your soul, your tummy and your need to find great gifts for family and friends. Marich Premium Chocolates from Hollister Three decades is a long time to perfect your craft, and Marich Confectionery continues to crank out hand-crafted premium chocolates under the imagination, dedication and inspiration of its original founder, Marinas van Dam’s sons Brad and Troy. Looking to tradition for guidance, while constantly staying on top of the taste curve, they are always adding to their unique candy store of palette-pleasing confections to suit every taste. Suffice it to say, it is difficult to choose, but you can start with fruit or nuts, and narrow it down from there. What’s nice about these bon bons is that
they’re small and bite-sized, and come in 2.3 oz as well as larger 22 oz packages, so you can’t go wrong with an assortment. Double dark chocolate praline almonds, mint chocolate malt balls, coconut curry cashews, dark chocolate sea salt caramels, milk chocolate strawberries: you’re going to pick a winner every time. Don’t forget the classic Holland mints for the traditionalists on your list. The chocolatecovered blueberries are a great way to get your antioxidants, especially when paired with Petite Sirah: Aver Family’s “Blessings,” their signature Petite Sirah, seems a particularly appropriate holiday pairing. (averfamilyvineyards.com) Call ahead, 634-4700, for a tour of the Marich plant, which is at 2101 Bert Drive, Hollister, CA 95023. They have an onsite shop, too, and you can order online anytime at www. marich.com Frantoio Grove Olive Oils from Gilroy The first commercial olive grove in Santa Clara County, called the Frantoio Grove, is just off Masten Lane in Gilroy. It was planted by Jeff and Pam Martin in 2005 to Frantoio olive trees, a Tuscan variety that yields a richly
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textured, high-oleic-index oil, with a tangy green bite indicating it’s as good for you as it tastes. The higher the oleic index, the more intense the oil: the most intense can actually gag you, so be careful. In contrast, most of the 50k acres of olives in California are Spanish varieties, which yield softer, more buttery oils, but that’s not what Jeff Martin, proprietor, had in mind. Inspired by the ancient grove of Frantoio trees his family had planted in Yolo County in 1867 — like grape vines, olive trees can live well over a hundred years — he wanted something strong and mighty, both literally and figuratively. The first olives from the 3,500 teenage trees in the gorgeous grove were hand-harvested on Nov. 28, 2011, and taken to a mill in Livermore for processing. Olive trees take seven years to mature, so this was a toddler’s crop, if you will. The resulting oil is not quite as aggressive as Martin had envisioned, but is instead elegant, flavorful and just mildly peppery. Last year was a light crop, only about 420 gallons, but this year is looking far better: they’re hoping for 2k gallons, or 40k pounds, of potentially peppery perfection. Niece of owner Martin, Olga Singleton, smiled as she handed out samples of crusty bread dipped in the oil, confident almost everyone would like it, especially with the “Family Album” blend from Aver Family. It was a hit. Frantoio oils are available for $20 per 12.5 oz bottle online or at Draeger’s markets, Rocca’s in San Martin, and several local wineries, including Solis, as well as at People & Planet Fair Trade Store in Morgan Hill. www.frantoiogrove.com Maiden Flight Apiary of Morgan Hill The bees of Maiden Flight Honey forage in the gardens, farms and open spaces of Morgan Hill and Gilroy (including the Aver Family vineyards). The honey they produce reflects the vegetation from which they gather nectar, with subtle notes of sage and wildflower and rich, piney dark Toyon. “Local honey made by happy bees” is a fitting tagline. Beekeeper Dave Stocks has been doing this for nearly 18 years now. He explains that you have to keep moving the hives to hit the crop rotation with the earliest flowering plants being eucalyptus, bay, manzanita and laurel, followed by almonds, which are the most lucrative for beekeepers, as they are a multi-million dollar industry in California and they require pollinators. Next to almonds, orange groves are also good nectar producers and make prized honeys. Are vineyards good nectar producers? “Nah, not really,” admits Stocks. They just don’t produce enough nectar to make it worthwhile, unless there’s a prolific cover crop or plenty of surrounding, cooperative vegetation. Beekeeping has been getting more and more difficult, with the devastation of colony collapse disorder, which has been linked to
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mites invading the hives, but Stocks feels it is a direct result of all the suspender chemicals that pesticides farmers use to put pesticides on their crops. Unlike pesticides, suspenders are not regulated. Honey yields, which can be 20 to 40 lbs per bee box, were dramatically down in the last two years, but he sees a rebound in 2012, and has done four extractions thus far this year with a yield of 60 lbs from one, so he is optimistic. “I’m just now trying to keep up with demand,” he says. Stocks has 15 hives, many in the San Martin and Gilroy area, where they’re moved as often as needed to keep the bees fed. “Otherwise,” says Stocks, “You have to feed them sugar syrup.” Maiden Flight honeys sell for $15 for a 2-lb jar, so you can see this is a labor of love, not a money-making proposition. Straight from the hive, honey is packed with nutrients and beneficial anti-allergens. Maiden Flight honeys are not commercially processed, which means they are not “pasteurized” by heating them so they can be forced through a filter to remove the pollen. At Maiden Flight, they simply use a cheesecloth. Besides being good in tea, honey makes a great accompaniment for a wine tasting, especially when served with a variety of cheeses, along with almonds and dried apricots. See maidenflighthoney.com to purchase. Roxanne’s Biscotti’s from Morgan Hill Roxanne’s biscotti is unique. This feisty woman is truly a local artisan making handcrafted biscotti one batch at a time in a commercial kitchen, her husband by her side. Her flavors are intense and seamless, like a wellmade, well-integrated wine, and once you’ve tried the butterscotch, you’ll be hooked. The
anise is fantastic, with just the right amount of licorice flavor, and the almond ones are as yummy-salty-nutty as the chocolate ones are deeply satisfying to a chocoholic. Roxanne Vinciguerra started perfecting her biscotti recipe when her Japanese grandmother, who loved crunchy sweets, was unable to enjoy typical biscotti as she got older. She found them too tough. So Roxanne got busy crafting just the right amount of crunch woven into a softer mouth feel, without the cookie blowing to smithereens at the first bite. And they shouldn’t disintegrate when dunked, in wine, for example. There really is a science to this: you have to use really fresh eggs, just the right flour, the perfect sugar. She swears by her extracts, made without terpenes and artificial additives, by a source in Paso Robles. There’s a bit of down time between steps in the process. First you have to bake the “loaves” for 30 minutes, allow them to cool, then you slice them, then bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, again letting them cool before handling. She makes two flavors per day. Recipes are all done by weight, and she notes that 1 cup of flour weighs different in the summer than in the winter. “We started this as a hobby,” she says. “We didn’t realize we’d be so successful. We keep making more converts” Oh, and those anise ones were mighty nice with the Aver Family “Homage,” a lovely Syrah-based blend with slight hints of fennel. Roxanne’s biscotti are available online, as well as at the Williams-Sonoma Valley Fair store, and at various farmer’s markets, including Morgan Hill. www.roxannesbiscotti.com
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Market MARKET
Shopper's Corner Cornering the market on local wine
The store lists many helpful details below the bottles. Photos by Tarmo Hannula/VINO
Laura Ness VINO
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hopper’s Corner is without a doubt Santa Cruz’s oldest and friendliest family-run market, in business since 1938. Nobody would dispute its legend as a Santa Cruz landmark, nor its reputation for service, meat, wine selection, fresh bread and diverse local produce. A trip to Shopper’s Corner is a trip back in time, reminiscent of a visit to a small-town grocery store in the days of Mayberry. But all you have to do is head to Santa Cruz and you’ll be whisked to a friendly place, shelves stocked with local wares, and a cordial, neighborhood atmosphere, where you actually get personal service. Back in 1938, Emmett “Bud” Beauregard and his initial partner, Vincent Williams, supposedly bought the market for a dollar, a whopping 50 cents apiece, and about $6,000 in debt. They borrowed a dollar, signed their contract on butcher paper and shook hands
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over a pickle barrel. From there they went on to build a competitive one-store grocery empire that would soon dominate the Santa Cruz Eastside. And it still does today. Flash forward to 2013, when Shopper’s Corner is going stronger than ever, due mainly to its emphasis on fresh local produce, meat and fish, along with a prodigious selection of wine, much of it local. We caught up with 3rd generation shop manager, Andre Beauregard, whose father Jim, upped the ante on the local wine angle more than three decades ago. Andre, who manages the wine purchasing, has been flying solo on this mission for 10 years now, and had some insightful observations on the role Shopper’s Corner plays in serving consumers thirst for wines. Says Andre, “We have a focus on local everything, so we have always had a focus on local wines. The Santa Cruz Mountains AVA is making some of the best wines I have ever tried, and I try a lot of wines. It makes it much easier to support the local vintners when their wines are of such high quality.”
Asked about his focus with the wine program, he admits that when the economy tanked and no one was buying high-end wines, he started carrying value-driven wines. “For the most part, my philosophy is to carry everything I can, to cover all the bases. We carry things that most stores wouldn’t consider. For example, some places might carry German wine, but don’t go to the extent of making sure you represent the entire every type of wine grown there. We also carry highly allocated wines that other stores cannot get,” he says. Among those allocated wines are Rochioli, Pisoni, Ridge Montebello, Sea Smoke, Roar, Justin and Shaffer. Asked how he sees people’s preferences changing, Beauregard notes that consumers seem to be drifting back to more traditional wine styles, with higher acidity and low alcohol. However, he adds, “That’s not to say that there are many people who still do enjoy big juicy fruit bombs.” About the demand for sweeter wines that everyone is talking about? He replies, “It’s picked up, but not as much as the sales people insist.”
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Shopper’s Corner’s dedication to wine is apparent. Photos by Tarmo Hannula/VINO
What are people buying in the sparkling department? He says people always buy lots of bubbly, and currently, people are buying more Prosecco and Cava than French champagne. The best selling bubbles right now are Roederer Estate and Gruet, with Rothschild’s new champagne and Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque gaining in popularity at the higher end of the spectrum. Among the traditional wines that people request, Beauregard cites Marie de Beauregard chinon and vouvray, as well as Italian and Spanish wines. Asked to name the top local wine brands, he quickly rattles off Mount Eden, Ridge, Beauregard (his brother Ryan’s brand), Storrs and Soquel Vineyards. Top local varieties in terms of sales are pinot noir, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, merlot and zinfandel. In the “best values” department, he cites Vine Hill wines, which are nearly gone, as the winery has shut down its Vine Hill and Gatos Locos brands to concentrate on its higher-end brand, Cumbre. Do his customers care much about scores? Beauregard thoughtfully answers, “I think my customers are interested in scores, but that’s not always what they are looking for. If they get to know a reviewers palate and agree with it, then they might be interested in following that critic’s reviews.” As the head wine buyer, what is the most common question he’s asked? “Can you find this?” he says, and this could be something a customer had on vacation, in a fancy restaurant or a wine they read about somewhere. Because he has so many sources, he can very often fulfill their wish. It’s one more way that Shopper’s Corner literally has the corner on the market, on everything from local to exotic, and all, with matchless personal service.
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BUT T ERFIELD S TAT I O N WINERY LOCALLY OWNED FAMILY RUN BUSINESS Our award-winning wines have great flavor and finesse. Look for our wines in your local market or wine store for your next event or holiday party. Find out more: 831.219.9100 www.butterfieldstationwinery.com www.epic-wines.com
VINO
Grandioso
67 acre
park-like Estate.
Custom architectural designed by the owner. Built in 2004- 3bed/4.5 baths, office, master bedroom with double walk-in closet, fireplace, jaccuzi room and amourous veranda. beautiful craftsman office, guest quarters upstairs, pool room. Family room with fireplace and round open bar, cental vaccum with floor dust vac. Barn set up for horses. Guest quarter inside the barn. Views, Views Views!
120 Hazel Dell Heights, Corralitos Property roperty Features Fireplace In Family Room, Living Room & Master Bedroom Separate Family Room Separate Dining Room Breakfast Nook Utility Room Office Recreation Room Double Pane Windows Gas Water Heater High Ceilings 220 Volts in Laundry Area Skylight(s) Vaulted/Cathedral Ceiling Wet Bar Built-in Vacuum Ceiling Fan(s) Dishwasher Cooktop Range Disposal Refrigerator Microwave Oven Security Alarm System (Owned) Trash Compactor Water Softener (Owned) Window Coverings Built-In Oven
Formal Entry Guest Quarters Pantry 4 Full Baths 1 Half Bath Sunken Tub Tub with Jets Bidet Wall-to-Wall Carpeting Hardwood Marble Tile Roof Propane Gas Heat Radiant Heat Central Forced Air Heat Central Air Conditioning Exterior Features Patio Possible Tennis Court Site Sprinklers Front and Rear Stable Barbecue Area Barn Deck Fenced Yard
$6,500,000
Aldina
Real Estate Broker速 Owner, GRI, CRS, SRES
713 East Lake Ave., Watsonville, CA 95076
Office: (831) 722-7131 Fax: (831) 722-7316
VINO
(831) 840-1360 (831) 722-7131 ext. 202 Fax: (831) 722-7316 Winter 2013 | Page 24 Direct:
CENTURY 21 Classic Properties Office: