January / February 2019
WINEMAKER
Bill Powell
TASTING ROOM
LTD
EVENT
Vintage Paso
EATS
Steins BBQ
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he most comprehensive guide to San Luis Obispo County’s wine country. Read in-depth profiles about area winemakers, learn about the latest local wine trends, read real reviews and profiles on area restaurants, lodging, tasting rooms, and more. New issues out every other month. Pick up your copy at area visitors centers, local tasting rooms, and in downtown Paso Robles, CA, or visit us online at vinopasorobles.com
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In This Issue
EDITOR
Brian Williams bwilliams@pasoroblespress.com
EDITORIAL
ADVERTISING
Beth Bolyard Adriana Novack Sheri Potruch Glo Rivera
Elizabeth Enriquez-Phillips Camas Frank
COVER PHOTO
Wicked Harvest Bourbon Whiskey Courtesy of Velvetree Foods
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VINO is published by the Paso Robles Press. All rights reserved, material may not be reprinted without written consent from the publisher. The Paso Robles Press made every effort to maintain the accuracy of information presented in the magazine, but assumes no responsibility for errors, changes or omissions.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY
WINEMAKER REVIEW Bill Powell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
FEATURED EATS Stein's BBQ Co.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Come Get Your Cookies.. . . . . . . . . . . . 15
UPCOMING EVENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
HARVEST 2018 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
FEATURED TASTING ROOM Lusso Della Terra Cellars . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 COVER STORY Wicked Harvest Bourbon Whiskey . . . . 16
FEATURED BREW Fruition Brewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 CALENDAR OF EVENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 SAN LUIS OBISPO WINE COUNTRY MAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
2019
BILL POWELL
WINEMAKER
POWELL MOUNTAIN CELLARS
Taking Red Wines to the Pinnacle Interview by Camas Frank
VINO MAGAZINE
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inemaker Bill Powell, and his wife, Kim Powell, established Powell Mountain Cellars in the fall of 2010 and moved into their current tasting room and production facility in Tin City in 2013. With a background in Southern California viniculture, he’s honed in on blends of Rhone, Bordeaux, Zinfandel, and Spanish varietals as that’s what grows best on their vineyard on the slopes outside of Paso Robles. “We’re definitely not in the valley,” he notes, “so the name is accurate.” From those, he’s crafting what the professional connoisseurs would term, “elegant, bold and concentrated” flavors in small batch fermentations. In a first for this Q-and-A series, Vino managed to stop by while Powell was busy with a press of their estate grown grapes. While he was profuse in apology for the mess behind the scenes, he had time to give tasting notes to visitors. He was later quite extensive in answering our questions.
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Q: OK, so we have an idea of how it came about but tell readers a bit about the Powell Mountain name. How does the mountainside geography of the estate affect what we’re tasting? Powell: Interesting question you ask. I suppose we should begin with the word “terroir”. This word defines how a vineyard(s) location influence the taste of the wine produced. The combination of climate, soils, and terrain are the primary factors in evoking the concept of “terroir.” These environmental conditions help shape the unique character of the wine. Human intervention, or the “winemaker,” is the other factor that can greatly influence or affect the outcome of the wine’s taste. Our particular location of Powell Mountain Vineyards is situated in the mountains of the Estrella District, in the Paso Robles AVA. The climate is warm, and sunshine is abundant. This makes ripening of grapes optimal. In contrast, is our diurnal temperature which varies an average 40
to 50 degrees each day during the growing season. Cool nights and moisture from the Templeton Gap promote acid retention. Tannin and phenolics are improved with ripened grape. Tannin and acid are most important in preservation of noteworthy aging wines. The soils are alkaline, and composition is primarily loam with pockets of limestone, sand, white chalk, scattered rock and broken stones. The mineral content is abundant. The soils drain well and maintain adequate moisture with limited irrigation. Our vines are not fertilized and are forced to struggle. Native grasses and vine defoliation are primary sources of nitrogen. Yields are very low and intensify flavors in small-berried fruit. Terrain is very important. Altitude and marine influence are noted in high-quality vineyards. Our high rolling soils are ideal for flora growth and creating riparian influence that ensures beneficial bug development. Cooling airflow is also ideal to hydrate vineyard canopies and help grape berries Published by the PASO ROBLES PRESS
retain acid. Our approach to viticultural practices, or wine grape growing, is organic. The land is not farmed by conventional means. We are minimalists and caring to the land. We let nature handle most issues. No herbicides are required. Mowing and minimal tilling encourage green growth for nitrogen, native grasses are our cover crop. Weeds are removed by hand and shovel. Fungicides are not required as we are located higher than the valley fog level. Organic pesticides are rarely employed as development of beneficial bugs help keep evasive crop-destroying bugs in check. All in all, this is the emphasis for the development of our estate vineyards, in hope that unique character is displayed in our estate wine. Q: You spoke some of the “Old World” influence in your style. Is that relayed through the Central Coast? How do you experiment with other varietals? Powell: I enjoy wine from both sides of the Pyrenees. France and Spain have influenced both style and selection of grape varietals I make into wine. Both countries have been deemed “Old World” and have been known for the creation of “Old World” style. This style is something I embrace. The confusion of Spanish influence in my style can be derived from early California heritage or the décor of our tasting room. The Central Coast influence is primarily “New World” style emphasis. There is a sharp contrast between the two styles Old and New, but there could be a nice balance between the two styles when paired with cuisine. It seems wine country cuisine can improve one’s liking for both. I would love to experiment with more varietals. Possibly more white varietals. Viognier is our only white varietal offered at this time. I’m working with 13 varietals to date. The red varietals produced to bottle are Grenache or Garnacha, Mourvedre or Monastrell, Syrah, Tempranillo, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Primitivo, and Zinfandel. Petit Verdot is also produced but not bottled as a varietal. However, is blended in our two Bordeaux-style blends. We also produce five red blends. They are Alta Montana the Spanish blend, Ascent the Rhone blend, Summit the “Paso” blend of Bordeaux and Rhone grapes, and Incline and Pinnacle are our two Bordeaux blends. Our blend names are of mountainous theme, to help customers remember the names of our blended wine they are seeking, produced by Powell Mountain Cellars. Published by the PASO ROBLES PRESS
Q: What is it that you see setting your brand apart from other labels that have established themselves in Paso over the last five years or so? Powell: This has been the best question so far to answer. I believe we have set our brand apart from other by being atypical. Our style is “Old World” and somewhat Euro in style. We seek balance, flavor, and character in our wine. They are food friendly and complex, but not overly extracted. Alcohol is not our primary concern. The wine’s flavor is not enhanced by additives. Our most important attribute displayed in our wine is character. We work with Paso’s sustainable growers and pride ourselves on producing organic fruit from our estate vineyards. We want to produce wines of terroir. We seek to be minimalists in both the vineyard and the winery. We make natural wines on native ferments to develop substance. The vintage year reflects the soul of the wine. Our wine is not mass produced or mechanized to hurry to market. We age our wines in barrel longer. This lets the wine evolve and develop concentrated flavor and complex notes. Fruit is present and oak spice notes are subtle as
to enhance the wine without losing varietal focus. New oak regiment are employed at lower percentages. We chose not to overwhelm the fruit flavors with strong oak presence. Our wines are somewhat unique and autonomous. It is our hope that our customers will understand our passion to produce wines of stature and character. Did I mention the wines are delicious? Q: We noticed a lot of 2012 of vintages on your list. Is that the best year to date? Anything we should be waiting on this year? Powell: Let's begin by mentioning that all our 2012 wines have been introduced. Was it the best vintage to date? It was great! It was a remarkable vintage for us. I feel there are more noteworthy vintages to come. In 2012 we released our four blends and seven red varietal bottlings. We produce many different wines of which very few cases are produced. Varietal bottlings average 25 to 100 cases and blends 100 to 200 cases. This is known as very small production in the world of wine sales. It may seem that we have many 2012 Continued on page 8 wines on our tasting Central Coast Edition
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room list, but I must note that we age our wines longer and release our wines later. This is by choice. We want to make certain the bottled wine is perfect upon release. The window for enjoyment is typically longer. Nearly all wines will age nearly a decade or more. Wines are typically released after three years. We make three Reserve wines that are released in five years. These wines are Ascent Reserve our Rhone inspired blend and Pinnacle Reserve are Bordeaux inspired blend. We release our Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve wine in five years also. We have introduced nine of our 2013 vintage bottles at this time and are available for purchase. We will release an additional five wines from the 2013 vintage this coming year. The 2013 vintage was a ripe year and another remarkable vintage. We released our very first estate wine our 2013 Estate Mourvedre in Spring 2017. A mere 26 cases produced and very impressive for a young offering. I might note we produced about 100 cases of 2013 Viognier that had been released in 2015 and sold out by the end of 2016. It seems we have extended the release of our 2013 vintage. Our 2014 Viognier was our first released wine of 2014 and was
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introduced in 2016. It is nearly sold out. Lots more 2014 wines are set to be debuted, and 2015s are coming too. Thank you for being patient! Q: Any big events for fans of your style to look forward to or coming up that might draw in some new palates?
Powell: Events are great opportunities to share our wine and gain new fans. We welcome customers to visit us in Tin City every weekend. It seems like our community is one big event. When you go to a large wine tasting event you would usually expect to taste wine from many wineries. You would also look forward to meeting the winemaker or qualified tasting room staff. You will find that here in Tin City every weekend. There are 23 wineries that pour wine in the park. Throw in a brewery, cider house, distillery, wine bar, two restaurants, pasta house, creamery, olive oil purveyors, food trucks, live music and you have a party. I’m in our tasting room often. It is always entertaining, and educational for some who visit to learn our story and philosophy of “Old World” style and technique. Our audience is quite diverse. That helps me stay active in the conversation. Wine enthusiasts seeking small production wines feel at home. No pretense is shown here as we little as 3 to 5 weeks!! are engaging, warm and friendly. Everyone we meet seems to enjoy our wine and is excited to visit. The big events for this coming year include our membership events with the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance which include From the latest furniture Vintage Paso ZinFest March, Wine Fest trends to the perfect in in May, and Harvest accent piece or area Festival in October.
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Our Rhone Ranger membership events include our Signature Rhone Celebration event in February and six varietal and blend events throughout the year. We also will be tasting at the Templeton Wine Festival in May, the Atascadero Lake Festival in June, and the Garagistes Festival in November. We will be tasting at a dozen other events throughout California this year promoting sales of our wine. We look forward to meeting many new wine enthusiasts this coming year 2019. Q: Anything we’re not asking that you wanted to get in print? Powell: We have covered much already, but on a special note, we have embraced a mountain climber named David Woods that has taken our wine to a different level. He and a fellow climber came to visit us in our winery tasting room, enjoyed our wine, spoke to me about their passion to climb. He asked me if I wanted to take my wine “to the top.” He has partnered with us in their pursuit to bring a bottle of our wine to the peak of the many majestic mountains they climb. We have a mountainous theme that we have named our winery and blends by, at Powell Mountain Cellars. The signature grand wine that elevates beyond all the other blends is named “Pinnacle.” Some may suggest that “Cabernet Sauvignon is king.” This red Bordeaux-styled blend features Cabernet Sauvignon and was notably named “Pinnacle.” The meaning of the word “Pinnacle” is a high pointed piece of rock, or virtually the peak or top. The climber's first conquest was Mount Whitney. They succeeded to bring the “Pinnacle” to the peak of Mount Whitney and photographed it in a most breathtaking light!
The Powell Mountain Tasting room is located in Tin City, a block down the street from Barrelhouse, at 3050 Blue Rock Rd. in Paso Robles. Tasting information is available online at, www. powellmountaincellars.com, or by calling 805-434-8097. Winter hours are Friday through Sunday 12-5 p.m.
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Central Coast Edition
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Vintage Paso: Zinfandel Weekend and 37th Annual Paso Robles Wine Festival
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he Paso Robles Wine Country has announced the 2019 dates for its first two marquee events. Leading the year off is the annual celebration of Paso’s heritage variety, Vintage Paso: Zinfandel Weekend is scheduled for March 15-17 followed by Paso Robles’ signature wine event, the Paso Robles Wine Festival celebrating its 37th year on May 16-19. Tickets are on sale for both events. Vintage Paso: Zinfandel Weekend begins on Friday, March 15 with Zinposium, a Zinfocused seminar in downtown Paso Robles at the Paso Robles Inn Ballroom. Moderated by iconic winemaker, Neil Collins, owner and winemaker of Lone Madrone, a panel of winemakers will discuss dry farming Zinfandel and Zin blended wines. This seated tasting is guaranteed to be educational and entertaining. In the evening, the ballroom transforms into a lounge atmosphere for the Z After Party. Join up to 20 Paso wineries for a savory walkaround Zinfandel tasting, complemented by a fantastic selection of desserts and live
jazz. This intimate tasting is sure to sell out with 80 seats for Zinposium and 175 tickets for Z After Party. Advance purchase only. Zinfandel Weekend continues on Saturday, March 16 and Sunday, March 17 with more than 100 wineries holding their own individual events throughout Paso Robles Wine Country. Visit www. pasowine.com to search by winery, activity or day to plot a course for Zin. The Paso Robles Wine Festival returns May 16-19 with the 37th annual celebration of everything Paso Robles wine. Wine Fest kicks-off Thursday, May 16, with Winemaker Dinners, each featuring multiple winemakers at the table with their wines paired with the cuisine of two iconic Paso Robles restaurants, Thomas Hill Organics, and The Hatch. On Friday, May 17, RESERVE delights a limited gathering of wine and food lovers with Library, Reserve, White/Rosé, and Barrel Sample wines, complemented by fresh and local gourmet bites. The following day, Saturday, May 18, begins with a Winemaker Seminar. The topic is under wraps for now but promises to be a fun
discussion and tasting. The day culminates with the Wine Festival Grand Tasting in the Paso Robles Downtown City Park. This unique outdoor tasting features 70-plus wineries arranged by “regions” (Bordeauxstyle, Rhône-style, Zinfandel, Burgundianstyle, Italian varieties, and Other Wild Wines) with wineries pouring their best. In the picnic area and gazebo, live music will provide the perfect atmosphere to enjoy a beautiful summer day sipping Paso Robles wines. Back by popular demand, the 2019 Wine Festival will feature complimentary food tasting from the region’s best chefs and caterers. Visit www.pasowine.com often to see updates on who will be sampling their delicious creations. Creativity abounds with the return of a limited lineup of handpicked artisan merchants. These entrepreneurs will offer a selection of unique local and wine country themed products. Sunday, May 19 of Wine Festival weekend encourages people to travel beyond the Park to explore more than 100 winery events throughout the weekend including winemaker dinners, live music, barrel samples, and so much more! -Staff Report
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PHOTOS FROM PASO WINE FESTIVAL
Tickets — All Zinposium, Z After Party, Wine Festival Winemaker Dinners, RESERVE, Wine Festival Seminar, and Wine Festival Grand Tasting Tasting tickets are now available on www.pasowine.com. The Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance represents wineries, growers and businesses in Paso Robles Wine Country. Centrally located between San Francisco and Los Angeles, along California’s Central Coast, Paso Robles Wine Country is California’s third largest wine region. It encompasses more than 40,000 vineyard acres and 200 wineries. For more information, visit www.pasowine.com. Published by the PASO ROBLES PRESS
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VINO 11
FEATURED TASTING ROOM
Lusso Della Terra Cellars
Bringing rustic luxury to East Paso By Allyson Woolley FOR VINO MAGAZINE
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he owners of Lusso Della Terra Cellars are sharing the “luxury of the land” to their patrons by providing a luxurious tasting room experience at their new tasting room and winemaking facility in the hills of east San Miguel. Earlier this year winemaker and owner Edward Cholakian, along with his better half, general manager Megan Van Hook, moved into the tasting room and winemaking facility that was previously run by J&J Cellars, where they hosted a grand opening celebration at the 2850 Ranchita Canyon Road location in October 2018. The 10,000 square foot facility offers Cholakian the opportunity to quadruple wine production, it has also allowed for experimentation, the development of estate 12 VINO Central Coast Edition
wines, and expansion of the custom crush and bottling side of his business. “This location is set up very nicely for a larger capacity winery, which we have grown into,” he said. “Having this new facility, we have been able to increase LDT’s production. This year production will be around 100,000 cases and of our own up to 4,000 cases a year. We also picked up some new varietals, Viognier and Roussanne and a few others we have yet to play with. The biggest news is we now have estate grapes including Petite Sirah, Merlot, and Zinfandel. Of course, we did something special with each of them for release and will be bottling the estate Rose next week. It will be our first estate wine bottled here for LDT.” The property boasts 35 planted acres and allows for Cholakian to select the portion from the harvest he needs and then distribute the rest. For those who have come to taste the wines at LDT in the past, the
offerings of 2018 will be a completely new experience for the palate. The new releases will include the new estate wines; Petite Sirah, Merlot, Zinfandel, a variety of pinks, a sparkling wine, and a variety of blends. A visitor can also taste 2018’s white flight at the tasting room today, offering a sharp, crisp Roussanne with a note of orange blossoms on the nose and a Viognier with a beautiful acidity, that is citrus forward with a smooth buttery finish. Lusso Della Terra literally translates to “the luxury of the land” and with that in mind, when looking for a new facility, Cholakian and Van Hook sought out a location that would provide a luxurious experience to patrons. Both expressed excitement over the move as well as an intent to pay homage to the location’s previous occupants. “The entire facility was so carefully crafted Published by the PASO ROBLES PRESS
LTD Cellars 2018 Viognier. Photos By Allyson Woolley
with a great attention to detail,” said Van Hook with a smile. “We have yet to have a moment where either of us has said, ‘Oh we wish they had thought of that.’ It really is ideal, and we plan to maintain many of the works of art that visitors enjoy while adding our own flair to them. Our tasting room mural has just been completed and all the other works are also being touched up and with our own vision.” The landscape at the new location is one that has drawn much praise as an event
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General Manager at LDT, Megan Van Hook and winemaker and owner, Edward Cholakian toast to the new move and enjoy a taste of the fruit of their labors.
and wedding venue. It offers an expansive wrap-around patio with stunning views of the vineyard, a rustic outdoor fireplace and patio area, an outdoor tasting bar, and many romantic corners to enjoy a glass of wine with someone special. Van Hook and the team at the winery are developing a tasting room experience to contend with other top wineries. Currently, construction is underway to build a commercial kitchen on site to offer lunch to patrons as well.
This year, 2019, looks to be an exciting year for LDT’s winemaking program and for patrons a new experience to enjoy on the Pleasant Valley Wine Trail.
To learn more about LDT Cellars visit www.LdtCellars.com or call 805-239-9463. LDT Cellars tasting room located at 2850 Ranchita Canyon Road, San Miguel and is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Central Coast Edition
VINO 13
FEATURED EATS By Allyson Woolley FOR VINO MAGAZINE
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weet, tangy, Santa Maria-style barbecue served up with a hefty side of vegetarian baked beans that are so packed with flavor one would assume they had a bucket of lard in them, and candy bacon topped mac and cheese; keeps people coming back for more at Stein’s BBQ Co. in Downtown Paso Robles. Stein’s was founded in 1981 by Brian and Nancy Stein as a catering company and has since flourished even creating a brand of seasonings, Pit Masters Choice Brand. Now after 37 years in business, the family has opened Stein’s BBQ Co. Located in the heart of Downtown Paso Robles at 1240 Park St., they offer up that dry rub barbecue from San Luis Obispo’s deep South, Santa Maria, fired in a pit with red oak and a lot of care. The new business is a co-ownership between executive chef Brian Stein and his son and manager, Kris Gerkins, who left the tech startup world for the good life with his wife Sarah Gerkins, who also acts as the marketing manager for the company. “It is truly a family business,” Kris said. “With that in mind we have created this 14 VINO Central Coast Edition
inviting place for people to come and enjoy good food and become part of the family. It all started when Brian got a call from his brother when living on the East Coast and told him he had to come out to California’s Central Coast and try the BBQ. It really became a passion for him. My wife Sarah and I didn’t become part of the business until we started helping get Pit Masters Choice Band off the ground. We really just loved it and then we found this perfect location in Paso Robles for a restaurant and it all came together.” At Stein’s the menu is made up of all the greatest hits that Brian created at the catering company serving everything from a tri-tip French dip to oozy, gooey pulled pork sandwich and even a seared ahi tuna wrap. With the sides alone, a person could fill up and enjoy a local beer or wine specially selected by the owners to go with the food. For instance, the ONX Wines, “Indie Rose,” is a perfect match when enjoyed with the ahi wrap according to Gerkins. The atmosphere is inviting and set up for patrons to order at the counter and enjoy a meal with friends and family while listening to some great blues, drinking a brew and have a good conversation. Kris Gerkins said, “We wanted to create a place that was both rustic and industrial. Chef Brian and I really enjoy blues music
Stein's BBQ Co.
and think the blues and BBQ are the perfect pairing, so you can see it represented in the art on the walls and the music playing.” For Stein and Gerkins, it was all about the details and that is apparent from those first steps through the door to the first bite of savory, sweet, tangy, dry rubbed, flamekissed tri-tip. The meat just melts in the mouth and the drippings run down the palm of the hand with every bite making for some truly finger licking good BBQ.
Stein’s BBQ Co. is located at 1240 Park St., Paso Robles, and is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. For more information, call 805-221-5991 or visit www.steinsbbq.com. Published by the PASO ROBLES PRESS
Come Get Your Cookies
Photos by Camas Frank
Navy veteran says the cookies found him By Camas Frank OF VINO MAGAZINE
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ew jobs test one’s daily work ethic quite like taking up the mantle as a small-town baker. Scott Beer has had a few jobs that might, serving as a hull and damage control technician in the U.S. Navy, rescue swimmer, and lifeguard, before going on to work in the restaurant industry and owning his own companies. But it’s his latest venture Come Get Your Cookies, serving up his dessert creations, that’s kept him on the move seven-days-a-week over the last 16 months. At the Templeton location formerly occupied by Dark Nectar Roasters, folks still swing by expecting coffee, which he’s happy to oblige, the signs on the door still advertise the local roasters brand after all and he stocks generous supplies of their product along with cinnamon buns and breakfast burritos for the morning crowd. “There has been some confusion about it but I’m getting my own name out there more now,” he adds, noting that he’d struck up the deal to occupy the space after perfecting his newest craft under a cottage industry permit. Selling large orders of 100-dozen cookies to retailers and shipping products sold online, he hadn’t initially realized that people who stop in to see him on the small-town Published by the PASO ROBLES PRESS
Main Street were giving their positive Yelp reviews to the wrong business. “I’m Come Get Your Cookies, but we’re proud to serve Dark Nectar,” he adds, while preparing a special Kahlua flavored cookie under a banner that adds a ‘.com’ to the end of the bakery name. “When I first Googled, ‘Cookies in Templeton’ I got worried because one came up and right on Main too, and the town isn’t big enough to support two of us right here, but it turns out they’re in Templeton, New Zealand. We keep in touch on Facebook, nice people.” As noted, the company is veteran-owned and Beer’s service medals sit framed on the wall across from the huge world map covering the other. Fitting for a Navy guy who visited 60 countries in his 12 years active. Though he didn’t make it to New Zealand, in fact, he adds his one trip south of the equator, “didn’t count because I didn’t go on a boat.” After several career and life changes Beer found himself in California trading in entrepreneurial skills for insurance sales and serving a term as President of the Morro Bay Rotary Club but the cookies found him. “I would go into places and get the cold shoulder but I noticed that anyone bringing something was welcomed with open arms,” and he said, combining trends, “bacon and maple doughnuts were all the rage people couldn’t get enough,” so he went to the internet and started teaching himself cookie recipes, hitting on a signature. “Bacon, maple, and Tabasco,” he explained,
“just a little bit of spice, we’re in California, it’s perfect.” After receiving large orders at trade shows and lots of attention culminating in an offer to join a “Bake Off” on Food Network, which he tactfully declined, cookies became more his business than the insurance. And he likes making people happy as a main job rather than as a sales gimmick, of the now 30 different craft flavors he offers he explains, “their either shortbread or sugar cookies, no eggs so they freeze well and last for weeks. I ship all over the country right now.” The brownies and cinnamon rolls that people love to get with coffee and sit on the porch consuming are a little more traditional, but they all have one thing in common, “they bring pure happiness to people’s faces.” Which is another reason, aside from work ethic, that he’s open every day of the week, including holidays, no Veterans Day or Thanksgiving off. “I figure people need a place to come and get away for few minutes,” he said.
Come Get Your Cookies is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 12 p.m, at 420 S. Main St. in Templeton where you can get a deal, $7 for 13 cookies or $0.70 each or go online to order a variety at comegetyourcookies.com. Central Coast Edition
VINO 15
COVER STORY
Wicked Harvest continues to boom
Zions release second offering a hazelnut-infused bourbon whiskey By Brian Williams OF VINO MAGAZINE
A
lot has changed since Jim and Gloria Zion unleashed their flagship Wicked Harvest Pistachio Bourbon Whiskey on the world a little more than a year ago. Over the past 12 months, the husband and wife team from their Morro Bay home have seen their bourbon grab the attention of new and old whiskey drinkers, bring home some hardware, and their lineup expand with the introduction of their second offering — Wicked Harvest Hazelnut Bourbon Whiskey. “It’s become a passion for us,” says Jim. “It’s a fascinating business. We have learned a lot in a short time.” Like their first-to-market pistachioinfused bourbon aged in Merlot barrels from the Central Valley, the hazelnut offering is another first and pays homage to Gloria’s 16 VINO Central Coast Edition
Oregon roots. “Gloria’s childhood all grown up in a glass,” says Jim. Diced and roasted hazelnuts are infused using the same 6-year-old bourbon distilled by Kentucky Artisan Distillery outside of Louisville and finished in Pinot Noir barrels from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Wicked Harvest Hazelnut went to market at the beginning of November 2018 and is being well-received, no doubt buoyed by the success of the pistachio bourbon. “We are finding that true bourbon aficionados are tending to like the hazelnut better because it drinks like a true bourbon,” Gloria says. “You have a little bit of toasted nut in that product from the diced and roasted hazelnuts.” There is no secret to their success. The Zions are passionate about their products and are willing to put in the work needed to get a fledgling venture off the ground. “We are the only employees,” says Gloria, whose business card reads “Director of First
Impressions” while Jim’s reads “Director of Everything Gloria Doesn’t Want to Do.” Along with the growth has come the creation of Velvetree Foods and Wicked Harvest merchandise but through it, all their story and focus remain. “We are growers,” says Jim, adding that using hazelnuts allows them to “help other growers expand their market.” The couple are partners with other successful successful pistachio, almond and pecan growers with orchards in California and Arizona. In addition, Jim is a partner in Meridian Growers, recently served on the Food Science and Nutrition Advisory Council at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo and has been chairman of Fresno-based American Pistachio Growers. Gloria was a former teacher, vice principal, principal and assistant school superintendent who also used to train principals and school districts. The idea for nut-infused bourbon aged in wine barrels came out of a side conversation Published by the PASO ROBLES PRESS
with Steve Thompson, owner of Kentucky Artisan Distillery. The two were at a meeting at Cal Poly and began talking about how to blend their products to create something new and roughly three years and 38 iterations later Wicked Harvest Pistachio Bourbon was brought to market. The couple went door to door personally telling their story to shop owners on the Central Coast and in the Central Valley with the hope of being poured or sold at their establishments. Gloria remembers that first sale like it was yesterday. She went to Cork ‘N Bottle in San Luis Obispo. “I can remember still going in that day and I was just shaking almost not knowing what to say,” Gloria says. One sale quickly turned into two and by the last count, Wicked Harvest was available in more than 100 locations in three different states, says Gloria. “It’s been fun,” Gloria says. “I was thinking back to when we were just in a few locations. It was just Jim and I bootstrapping it on the ground trying to get Wicked Harvest into our favorite places. “It’s still a matter of going in and connecting face to face. We find that still gives us the best results,” Gloria adds. Since going to market they have poured at trade shows and medaled in three competitions. Wicked Harvest Pistachio Bourbon took silver at the Central Coast Craft Spirit Competition at the Mid-State Fair. Their bourbon was also one of the ingredients that helped Matt Hanson of Fish Gaucho win the Get Crafty mixology competition with a drink dubbed the “Wicked ‘Itch’ of the West.” All of these face to face interactions allow the Zions to tell their story. “There are real people behind it,” Jim says. “There are actual humans making this product, putting blood, sweat and tears, money, hopes and dreams into it and when you tell people that they have this connection to it. They say ‘You know what, I like the product, but I also like you.’ “And what I find is if they like you they want you to succeed,” Jim adds.
For more information on Wicked Harvest, including where to purchase the bourbons, visit www.wickedharvestspirits.com.
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Central Coast Edition
VINO 17
Gloria and Jim Zion, center, enjoy sharing their Wicked Harvest Bourbon Whiskey with friends and family. They have been pistachio farmers for years.
18 VINO Central Coast Edition
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SAME DEDICATION
New Flavor HAZELNUT BOURBON WHISKEY
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Central Coast Edition
VINO 19
Harvest 2018 comes to a close in Paso AVA Vintage is looking to be a ‘seminal’ year, say growers and winemakers
O
By Brian Williams OF VINO MAGAZINE
verall, wine grapes took longer to ripen this year in the Paso Robles AVA. In fact, many in the industry joked that 2018 was the harvest that wouldn’t end. Normally, the harvest window is relatively small, but non-stop. While exhausting, the steady flow of picking and processing allows wineries to get into a steady groove. This year, however, was a marathon of fits and starts, with long finger-biting periods of waiting. After all, the longer the harvest, the bigger the chance for damaging rains and frost. “We were about 10 days later on the Viognier than last year, and north of two weeks later than the years before last,” said kukkula winery winemaker Kevin Jusilla. The winery’s 2015 Aatto landed on Wine and Spirits top 100 wines of 2018 list. “Historically we pick Syrah around mid-August, but last year we picked at the end of August. This year we pulled the last in October.” Sherman Thacher of Thacher Winery said, “We were a week or so later than last year and three-plus weeks later with certain
20 VINO Central Coast Edition
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varieties than the previous two years. Some of our Zinfandel was more than a month later than normal in 2018.” While delays vexed winery staffers, winemakers say the wait was worth it in terms of overall yield. “We are about 20 percent above our average, across the board,” said Bob Tillman, of Alta Colina Vineyard and Winery. “This is the best yield we have seen since 2010. The vine buds that became this year’s shoots were formed in 2017, which benefited from the generous winter rains of 2016-17.” SummerWood Winery and Inn winemaker Mauricio Marchant was surprised with the yield. “Higher than expected, given that we had to drop a considerable amount of fruit this year, to allow for canopy growth and timely fruit maturity,” he said. The longer harvest forced winemakers to
contend with additional variables. “Every year we seem to have one or two varietals bounce out of their normal line up,” Thacher said. “Zinfandel was definitely one of those this year. Some of our dry-farmed Zinfandel was picked as much as six weeks later. That dry-farmed Zinfandel — a variety already famous for uneven ripening within the cluster — became even more varied, which gave us some challenging numbers to work with.” There is an upside as the longer hang times have allowed the grapes to slowly develop more flavors and stronger colors. “For several years we have been measuring the color concentration of our juice — darker color generally implies higher quality wine,” Tillman said. “This vintage we have experienced a significant jump — 30 to 50 percent — over previous years, boding well for the wines.
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“Too early to be definitive, but aromas and colors in the cellar are delightful. I’m very bullish about the quality of the 2018 vintage,” Tillman said. Normally reticent to predict the quality of a vintage before the wine has time to age, many winemakers say they’re confident 2018 will prove a banner vintage for Paso Robles. “I generally resist making predictions about the quality of the vintage until several months after getting wines into barrels, but this really feels like a seminal vintage,” Jusilla said. “Grapes easily ripened, pH/TA almost across the board is about as good as it gets, color intensity, and concentration are amazing. The late rains in March, the overall cool growing season, and late harvest seemed all to contribute to really even ripening and high fruit quality.”
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Central Coast Edition
VINO 21
Sam Akiyama (left) and Jorge Vasquez have jumped into the craft brew scene with their family farming business, Akiyama Hopyard, just outside Watsonville. Photo by Sergio Vega
Passion Project Historic crop making comeback on Central Coast Story By Tony Nunez OF VINO MAGAZINE
T
o say home brewing has played a part in David Purgason’s life would be a gigantic understatement. Brewing helped him meet his partner Tallula Preston. He wrote his 20page senior thesis at UC Santa Cruz on the craft, touring breweries across the state and breaking down the process of making beer from grain to glass. And it nearly took his life in 2017, as a freak accident while working at Venus Spirits in Santa Cruz sent him to the hospital with severe burns that covered 60 percent of his body. Undeterred by the scare and more resilient than ever, he and Preston, another homebrewing fanatic, will try to share their passion for craft beer with Watsonville when the pair opens up Fruition Brewing in the coming months. “I love brewing beer,” said Purgason, 28, whose brewpub will occupy a 4,440-squarefoot location in the East Lake Village Shopping Center. Added Preston, 31, jokingly: “I don’t think we would’ve signed our lives away if we 22 VINO Central Coast Edition
didn’t love it.” Sam Akiyama and Jorge Vasquez, business partners at the Akiyama Hopyard just outside of city limits, were brought together by beer, too. The Watsonville natives met while working at Elkhorn Slough Brewing Co. on Hangar Way. Vasquez, 28, was owner Michael Enos’ first employee in 2016, and he remembers his first day on the job like it was yesterday. “I missed my mom’s birthday dinner because it was my first day of work,” Vasquez said. “She was a little mad then, but she’s cool with it now.” Vasquez worked his way up from beer tender to brewer after being hired, and also sparked up a friendship with Akiyama, 24, who returned home from college in 2015 and was Enos’ second hire. When Enos talked to Akiyama about starting a hop yard on his family’s former carnation nursery, the latter was hesitant to jump into the trade. But an exploding craft beer scene in the tri-county area and a dream of continuing his family’s tradition of farming pushed Akiyama toward growing hops in 2016. Over the course of three years, Akiyama and Vasquez have built their business into a well-respected hop yard with clients as far as Berkeley. “It took some convincing to get Sam on
board, but here we are,” Vasquez said. Joked Akiyama: “A few beers later.” To which Vasquez rebutted: “A little bit more than a few beers later.” In between a few celebratory brews, Akiyama and Vasquez have spent their days on the farm and in the books. Akiyama earned a degree in biology from Occidental College, and Vasquez chose not to go to college, instead staying home to help his dad run the family business — Joe’s Carbon Solutions. Neither had intensive knowledge about the process of growing Humulus lupulus, the bine plant that produces the green coneshaped flower used in beer, so the two spent several nights reading about the techniques used across the globe in Germany, a couple states over in the Mid-West and just to the north in Oregon. Three seasons in, the duo — with the help of Akiyama’s grandfather, Isamu — has found a sustainable rhythm to tend to the rapidly growing plant, which climbs floating ropes hanging over the fields at a pace of roughly two feet a day and creates what Akiyama called a “giant green curtain of cones” during the summer and into the early fall. The Akiyama Hopyard supplies 12 different types of hops and has hopes of adding more variations in the future. “They’re pretty resilient plants,” Akiyama Published by the PASO ROBLES PRESS
said. “It’s a cross between an orchard and a vineyard.” Vasquez said there’s some room to experiment with the way the hops are grown, but explained that the true art happens after they’re picked and incorporated in the brewing process. “People are trying new things with beer,” Vasquez said. “It’s an exciting time.” Experimental, boundary-pushing concoctions are what Purgason and Preston take pride in. Mixed fermentation and barrel aging with fruits like coconut, mangoes, nectarines, cherries and blackberries, among others, is nothing new for them. They brew everything from a simple pilsner to a dry stout aged in añejo barrels with coca nibs, coffee, vanilla beans and milk sugar. “We like all kinds of beer,” Purgason said. “I think that just having a diverse portfolio and brewing a wide range of styles is important because people are always looking for something new. Being able to offer something for all types of beer lovers is huge. We want to do a little bit of everything.” That experimentation, Purgason and Preston agreed, is what makes the arduous brewing process fun.
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“I think a lot of people start out with the art portion,” Purgason said. “You’re making this thing, brewing it on your stove, it’s romantic and fun. But once you want to make the best beer that you can, you really fall into the science aspect of it. You get to marry those things.” Added Preston: “There’s an art and a science. It’s a beautiful melding of the two.”
History
Before Watsonville was known for its strawberry fields and apple orchards, hops were one of its major exports. During the late 1800s, the Pajaro Valley was one of the biggest suppliers of the small greeny cones essential to the production of beer. The crop, however, fell out of favor with farmers near the turn of the century, and prohibition in the 1920s ultimately killed the viability of its production. Vasquez, a hop historian of sorts, knows this all too well. The 28-year-old can drive around the outskirts of his hometown and stop at different locations along the road to point out the fields that were once flooded with Humulus lupulus — the bine plants that
David Purgason and Tallula Preston are the coowners of Fruition Brewing, which plans to open in the East Lake Village Shopping Center. Photo by Tarmo Hannula
produce the hops. “The history, it’s there,” Vasquez said. “People forget about it, but if you look around you can see the remnants of the past.”
Central Coast Edition
VINO 23
Downtown Paso Robles Hoyt Family Vineyards LXV Wine Boss Pianetta les Rob o Pas s ega Bod Serrano Wines Indigene 13th St Grizzly Republic Diablo Paso Chateau Lettau JUSTIN ge Rid Asuncion 14th St
Herman Story
nes Frolicking Tudor Wi Frog Paso Underground Symbiosis Wines 12th St
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Pine St.
Park St.
Spring St.
Oak St.
Riverside Ave.
Vista Del Rey
10th St
Caparone
Cypher D’Anbino
8th St
ne yR ock
9th St
Starr Ranch
Derby Wine Estates
Chron N
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Carmody McKnight Tablas Creek
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Poalillo
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Twin Coyotes
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Hearst Ranch Winery
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7th St
Black Hand Cellars
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Doce Robles
1 Cayucos Cellars
24 VINO Central Coast Edition
MCV Chateau Margene Dias ROBLES PRESS Published Cuatro by the PASO
CALIFORNIA US
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J. Lohr
Airport Rd
San Antonio
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Neal Spring Rd
La Tab s las Rd
Pomar Junction
V ineyard Dr
Bella Luna T em p l et o n R d T
Wild Horse
Cres to
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Crippl e Creek Rd
Field Recordings
Still Waters
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Penm Spriinngs Rd an
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Lefondusac
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Villic 2 4 t ana h S t Alta Colina
Jardine Rd
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Tackitt Family
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Loma Linda August Ridge
B&E GreMark
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Central Coast Edition
VINO 25
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
January / February 2019
SATURDAY, JAN. 5
logo glass. Share your downtown wine tasting adventures on Facebook and Twitter with #tastedowntownpaso.
First Saturday of the Month Vintner and Vines Tour
Studios on the Park celebrates Art After Dark Paso, a fun tradition of art, wine, and live music-filled evenings at the start of every month starting at 6 p.m. Free. Wine for $8 a glass. Come see this month’s featured winery, Herman Story Wines! Studios on the Park, 1130 Pine St. in Paso Robles.
18th Annual Esprit du Vin
Deep in the Willow Creek District of Paso Robles, discover distinctive Italian wines unique to Pelletiere Estate by walking with our winemaker, Amy Butler and vintner, Janis Denner as they explain the process involved in making limited-production Italian-style wines. Learn about the heritage of Italian grape growing and origins of Pelletiere Estate’s rare Italian varieties, compare Old World and new world approaches to winemaking and discuss Paso Robles’ unique micro-climate. Then experience these exceptional wines first-hand with a guided tasting. Start time is 11 a.m. There is no fee for the tour. Normal tasting fees apply. No reservations are required however, we do encourage you to let us know ahead of time if you will be joining us so that we can make the proper accommodations. Remember your sunblock and proper touring shoes! Pelletiere Estate Vineyard & Winery is located on 3280 Township Road in Paso Robles. For more information, call 805-239-9432.
Art After Dark Paso
SATURDAY, JAN. 19 The Cellar Session at Zenaida Cellars
While farming is essential to making great wine, what happens in the cellar – from soak times to barreling to blending – is where the art of the winemaker is expressed. In this fun and educational tasting, Eric will lead you through barrel tastings, blending exercises and more starting at 10 a.m. The session will conclude with a private tasting with Eric. To reserve your place, please call the winery at 805-227-0382. Payment is due at booking. Zenaida Cellars is located at 1550 Highway 46 West in Paso Robles. For more information, call 805-227-0382.
Winter Wine Stroll with the Downtown Paso Robles Wineries
After the busy holidays are over, treat yourself to a day downtown of strolling, sipping and nibbling gourmet goodies at 16 of our Paso Robles Downtown Wineries tasting rooms, all within walking distance will start the stroll at 2 p.m. Enjoy a unique wine and food pairing and toast the new year with friends, old and new, at each stop. From Albariño to Zinfandel, taste the diversity our wineries have to offer. Whether it’s a new varietal, blend or vintage, come discover your next new favorite wine at the Downtown Paso Robles Wineries! Tickets are $40 per person (must be 21 or over). Includes wine and food pairing at each participating tasting room and a keepsake 26 VINO Central Coast Edition
Join the Highway 46 East Wineries in celebrating their 18th Annual Esprit du Vin, the “Spirit of Wine” where all of the 46 East wineries will gather under one roof for an exciting night of delicious wine and cheese pairings, culinary delights, live music, and a wine-loving crowd! Each winery will be featuring wines paired with different gourmet cheeses. Stroll around and savor each pairing while enjoying live music by local artists, gourmet appetizers and desserts from a variety of local chefs and artisans! The event will take place on Saturday, Jan. 19, at the beautiful new facility of The American Winery of the Year winner Riboli Family of San Antonio Winery located at 2017 Wisteria Lane in Paso Robles from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. (6 p.m. with VIP Entrance). Ticket cost is $40 for general admission and $50 for VIP. Tickets available at: espritduvinpasorobles.eventbrite.com
SUNDAY, JAN. 20 Blending Seminar at Le Vigne Winery
Be a winemaker for a day! Beginning at 11 a.m., join our winemaker, Michael Barreto, in learning the secrets of what it takes to make the perfect cuvée, then try to create your own! This exciting event includes lunch and a 750 ml. bottle of your very own blend, complete with a custom label. $75 per person and $65 for La Famiglia members. Le Vigne Winery is located at 5115 Buena Vista Drive in Paso Robles.
SATURDAY, FEB. 2 Art After Dark Paso
SATURDAY, FEB. 9 Annual Chardonnay and Crab Celebration
Celebrate the perfect coupling of our exquisite Tolosa Chardonnays and decadent Dungeness crab! Join Winemaker Frederic Delivert for an extraordinary evening of wine, food and music, featuring a crab dinner by Chef Tracy Labastida of Field to Table Catering and Events. The talented Loren Radis returns to serenade while we feast. We’ll be serving a special medley of our 1772 Series and Single Vineyard Chardonnays. Tickets are $140 per person for Wine Club Members and $150 per person for Non-Wine Club Members. Call the Concierge at 805-782-0500 to purchase tickets.
Studios on the Park celebrates Art After Dark Paso, a fun tradition of art, wine, and live music-filled evenings at the start of every month starting at 6 p.m. Wine for $8 a glass.
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CALENDAR OF EVENTS Shadow Run Valentine Winemaker Dinner A very special Valentine Winemaker Dinner with meet-and-greet Hors D’ouerves on Saturday, Feb. 9, at 6:30 p.m. $115 per person, includes tax and gratuity. Please choose between regular or vegan. Wine will be a 2015 Jolie. Choice of Vegan Angliotti — Cashew and Tofu Ricotta, Sundried Tomato Pesto, Basil or Prosciutto and Gruyere Mini Sandwiches — Arugula and Caper Aioli, and Muhammarah, Feta and Fried Chickpeas on Lavash 2016 Moonshadow wine with a choice of Marin Miyagi Oysters in a Champagne Citrus Mignonette or Vegan Alternative which is a Cornmeal Crusted Oyster Mushrooms, Fennel
Slaw, Tahini Sauce 2016 Untamed wine with a choice of Smoked Duck Carpaccio — Shaved Fennel, Toasted Hazelnuts, Shaved Grana Padano, E.V.O.O. or Vegan Alternative — Black Bean and Beet Balls, Roasted Tomato Sauce, Kale, Balsamic Glaze 2015 Syrah with Herb Crusted, Grilled Bison Sirloin Steak — Root Vegetable Pave, Bleu Cheese Demi-Glace or Vegan Alternative — Root Vegetable Pave, Watercress, Porcini Sauce 2013 Eclipse with Wood Fired Rib Eye — Porcini Mashed Potatoes, Tuscan Kale, Chili Beurre Rouge or Vegan Alternative — Smoked Eggplant Lasagna Dessert will include Mini Pastries and Coffee Buffet. Located at Park Street Grill. 1344 Park Street in Paso Robles.
January / February 2019
Sangiovese Private Vertical Tasting
Experience a private reserve vertical wine tasting. Vintner Janis Denner will guide you through an Italian vertical tasting of estate grown Sangiovese from four different vintages, beginning with the exquisite 2014 and ending with an exclusive barrel tasting of 2017. This seated tasting will take place in our private barrel room and is by reservation only. Tasting Starts at 12 p.m. Advanced reservations are required. Seating is limited to 10 people maximum. $45 per person. Pelletiere Estate Vineyard & Winery is located at 3280 Township Road in Paso Robles.
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Central Coast Edition
VINO 27
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