July/August 2017
FEATURED DINING
Kitchenette The Hatch
ROCKSTAR WINEMAKER
Stewart McLennan: Lefondusac WINE PAIRING GUIDE SUMMER WINES
Estate Es tate
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Paso Rob Robll es
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FOR WINE TASTING 10AM - 5PM Broken Earth Winery produces unique wines that are estate grown, harvested & bottled in Paso Robles. Winemaker Chris Cameron's philosophy is to utilize small winemaking practices on a bigger scale & deliver food-friendly wines with true varietal definition. We are a customer-focused team proudly representing Paso Robles & committed to continuing to bolster the
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Come enjoy our beautiful Café and General Store. Now proudly serving delicious meat and veg pies from “THE BRONZED AUSSIE” traditional Australian tucker. We also offer a variety of Panini, wraps & salads fresh to serve; along with unique gifts, décor and food. FOLLOW US ON
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5625 HIGHWAY 46 EAST • PASO ROBLES, CA • 805.239.2562 • WWW.BROKENEARTHWINERY.COM
Certified California Sustainable Vineyard • 100% Solar Powered Winery
Yin & Vin: Yoga in the Vines Thursday, August 10
End your workday with an evening yoga session in the vines, followed by light snacks and wine tasting. $25 for members, $30 for non-members Class 6pm – 7:15pm.
Hot Summer Soul Concert Saturday, August 12
Lazy Locals Concert Series: Jill Knight Sunday, August 13 Free
Yoga & Brunch Sunday, August 20
$25 for members, $30 for non-members Baskets and Barrels Disc Golf Tournament Saturday, August 26
SLOFolks Presents: Ruaile Buaile
experience wine taste from the barrel
with the winemaker
every fri/sat/sun
Saturday, August 26 Doors open at 6pm. $25
805.237.0510 250 WINERY RD O P E N 10:30-5:30 T E M P L E TO N / / C A / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / R O T TA W I N E R Y. C O M / / / / / / / / / / / / / / /
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JULY/AUGUST 2017
In This Issue
ROCK STAR WINEMAKER Stewart McLennan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
TASTING NOTES WITH STAN ANGEL The Basics of Pairing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
The Winemakers of Paso Robles . . . . . . . . 12
Summer wines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Featured Dining: Kitchenette . . . . . . . . . . . 17
SOUTH COUNTY WINE TASTING MAP . 33
Featured Olive Oil: Boccabella . . . . . . . . . 20
Wine and beer festival photo galleries . . . 36
Featured Dining: The Hatch . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Picnics and Patios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
NORTH COUNTY WINE TASTING MAP .26
Paso Robles AVA Districts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
CALENDAR OF EVENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
GENERAL MANAGER Beth Bolyard bbolyard@atascaderonews.com EDITOR Luke Phillips lphillips@atascaderonews.com EDITORIAL Stan Angel Sonja Eschenburg
Luke Phillips Madeline Vail ADVERTISING Stan Angel Adriana Novack Sheri Potruch GRAPHIC DESIGN Jim Prostovich
COVER PHOTO Madeline Vail: Ali Carscaden of 15c in Templeton VINO MAGAZINE PasoRoblesPress.com 805-237-6060 935 Riverside Ave, 8A Paso Robles, CA 93446
VINO is published by the Paso Robles Press. All rights reserved, material may not be reprinted without written consent from the publisher. The Paso Robles Press made every effort to maintain the accuracy of information presented in the magazine, but assumes no responsibility for errors, changes or omissions.
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Arlyne’s Flowers & Gifts 6485 Palma Ave • 805-466-1136 www.ArlynesFlowersandGifts.com
Atascadero’s Own Winery & Tasting Room 6175 El Camino Real Just steps from the Historic Carlton Hotel Open Thursday-Sunday Noon til 7:00 P.M. 805-460-7422
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STEWART MCLENNAN
WINEMAKER
LEFONDUSAC
Golden Triangle of Fine Wines Stewart McLennan's evolution from actor to winemaker
By Madeline Vail OF VINO MAGAZINE to Orange County or the desert and then we flew up to San wner and winemaker of three separate commercial Luis and I was like ‘wow this is great.’” labels, a fantastically fun and popular wine bar in Tin And as a result, seemingly by default from moving to “wine City called Lefondusac, and host for four years now country,” the winemaking was an evolutionary process. of the radio show on The Krush 92.5, The Garagiste Show, “When I first moved up here I started drinking some of Stewart McLennan is fondly referred to by friends as Stew the wines,” McLennan said. “Back then there were a lot and his fan club as S.F. McLennan. Fan club you ask? Yes, fan fewer wineries and I remember meeting John Munsch at club. Before McLennan was a winemaker he was a full time Adelaide and just loving his wines. Then over time, there Hollywood actor. was a group called Sisters of the Vine, and all our kids were After appearing in the original “Road Warriors: Mad in school at that time and there were a bunch of us fathers Max” with Mel Gibson in 1981 McLennan moved to New standing around and minding the kids while our wives were York briefly to study acting then to Los Angeles to pursue out having this big dinner and wine with this winemaker. a full time career. Since then he has had major roles in such So I said we should do something, because the pendulum notable films as “National Treasure” with Nicholas Cage, swung the other way, we should do something that would the popular ABC series “Lost”, and as Dr. Neil MacNeill be similar. So I came up with what would be the antithesis in the cherished juvenile-fiction television series and film of Sisters of the Vine and it would be called Brothers of the adaptation of “Christy.” But unfortunately for L.A. and fortunately for SLO County, Barrel. So we formed Brothers of the Barrel and one of the McLennan arrived about 25 years ago to what he jokingly guys, Ken Winchester, at that time owned the vineyard that refers to as the “seven plagues of LA.” is now Terry Hogue and he had just planted it. I suggested “The Rodney King riots happened, the earthquake, the rather than having dinners why don’t we actually try to make fires, the floods,” he said. “It was just so depressing. I drew a wine? So we did. The first vintage was like in 2000. It was circle around L.A. three hours out. The criteria was ‘how far eight guys. Eight was the perfect amount because that was would you drive for a weekend in L.A.?' I didn’t want to move
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enough that there would always be someone around. The only time everyone showed up was the bottling because you get to take the bottle home. “So we did that for a few years and I just got deeper and deeper into it. And you know I met a lot of winemakers around here and we, Doug Minick and I, started the Garagiste thing. We started that six or seven years ago and a couple of years into that I was like, ‘I really want to step into being “for real” and having my own brand.’ Because at the time I knew stylistically what I liked. But in the interim I worked in every part of the business from being a lackey, like dragging hoses basically, to being behind the bar in the tasting room to doing national sales and the wholesale environment and I knew what I didn’t want to do which was getting into big time wholesale and being on the road.” So McLennan did just that in 2013 with his first commercial project, Golden Triangle. Presently McLennan is responsible for two other labels, Le Fond du Sac with fellow wine-making partner J.P. French, and Corrugated. While McLennan is obviously proud of all of his wines the one he seems to be particularly fond of and rife with passion for is Golden Triangle; a project aptly named after a loosely denominated area where McLennan believes some of the best fruit comes from,“because it’s the very best of the best to me. You can’t make great wine from bad grapes. This county, across the county, is becoming much more savvy and the quality grapes has been going up consistently,” he said. Another thing that makes Golden Triangle so special is that it “is a 100 percent whole cluster project,” McLennan
said. “So none of those wines are destemmed.The stems go in with the wine and that’s now kind of a cool thing to do. People do it in various percentages but I do it a hundred percent. It gives the wines a different balance and a different tannic structure than they would if they would just gain their tannins from skin. In truth there has been very little research done on stem tannin and a lot on skin tannin because it’s being used by the large wineries and they fund these research deals. We had a guy down here that did a big phenolic tannin lecture from UC Davis and we were talking to him and I said ‘Well, you’ve got all this stuff on skin do you have any on stem,’ and he said, ‘oh no one uses stem,’” McLennan added with an incredulous laugh. In regards the whole cluster process and the use of stems themselves, McLennan continues, “they use it for pinot to give it a little bit of that structure, something with pinot being a light grape but ‘you’d never use it on cab.’ The result is a slightly grippy wine that is intended to be served with food and, when it comes to cellaring, will go the distance. While the 2014 Syrah is certainly ready to drink now, albeit with foods that are rich and fatty in content like a great cheese or a tasty Tomahawk, McLennan suggests cellaring it for four to five years to really enjoy it at its peak. Even better, buy two so one can be enjoyed right away and the savvy collector can ruminate over the differences half a decade or longer from now. When asked why he would go to so much trouble when the larger wineries seem to think destemming is perfectly fine, McLennan responds, “If you are going to make a small boutique label you should offer something very special.”
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Something very special indeed. The first vintage of Golden Triangle was the 2013; including a Cab, a cab syrah and a tannat; and is almost completely sold out and the 2014 vintage, that will be released three to four months from now, is comprised of only 300 cases. So if you need something to keep you away from those precious bottles grab a mix of the Corrugated and Lefondusac to hold you over. Excellent wines as well, created by the same master’s hand, but intended to drink sooner than later. One can taste and purchase Golden Triangle by appointment at Lefondusac or simply go to goldentrianglewines.com to purchase. Corrugated and Lefondusac can be purchased at any time at the Le Fond du Sac wine bar in Tin City.
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A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE
Large format book highlights the winemakers of Paso Robles
I
By Madeline Vail OF VINO MAGAZINE
n a region that has been photographed ad infinitum to capture its countless tasting rooms, seemingly endless acres of gently rolling vineyards and it’s good old fashioned “small town charm,” what could a professional travel photographer and an OC Register wine writer possibly bring to the table that captures a fresh perspective? “The Winemakers of Paso Robles,” a large format full color kodex, if you will — the book itself is massive in size and weight — written by Paul Hodgins and photographed by international travel photographer Julia Perez has done just that. “This is not a book about vineyards and tasting rooms,” Perez said. “You’re not going to see super green vineyards
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and super nice tasting rooms with the owner standing there with a glass of wine. This is what’s happening behind the scenes. So the idea was to capture the full process of what happens from day one when they pick the grapes until that wine is bottled. We wanted to capture the stains on the teeth and the sticky hair and sunburns, things that were not captured before.” Meanwhile Hodgins collected hundred of interviews over the course of the project, and by bringing these two elements together the book encompasses all of the pain and the glory of the Paso Robles wine region in both the written word and visual images.
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“It’s the perfect Paso wine companion,” said David Garrett, the publisher and husband of Perez — “This [the book] is all human stories, people taking huge risks, sacrifices, changing their lives in the middle of their careers and making huge investments and doing it all for this passion to make wine… I know a lot of winemakers and I know that for me knowing the story of the winemaker that made the wine makes it a lot more enjoyable for me and that’s kind of what we wanted to do.” Having just moved to into the area as permanent residents — they literally just moved in days prior to this interview — Perez and Garrett have been overwhelmed by the support and the spirit of cooperation that is so pervasive in the community. Throughout the year long project Garret was more than impressed. “We were surprised over and over again by the community,” he said. “People really opened the their doors to us.” “It was incredible,” Perez said. Garrett continued, “Giving us their time, helping us learn about the region, telling us about other winemakers that should be in the book. I mean I’ve spent a lot of time in wine regions and the idea that a winemaker would be like ‘Oh I’ve got five other winemakers
VINO Central Coast Edition
that you should be talking’ to doesn’t happen a lot. It’s really kind of Paso-centric.” The couple is not new to wine regions or publishing, however, this is their first large-format, commercially available release. Their first and only other project was a private release, a photo journal, of a winery Perez and Garrett had partial ownership in the Priorat region of Spain. “The first book that we did was for a winery that we bought that was kind of in trouble so we had to nurse it back to health and in the year that we had our first vintage — 2014 — I kept an extensive journal and Julia kind of journaled everything with photos and at the end of the year we created this book for our staff and our partners and our investors and our customers,” Garrett said. “Plus I was taking pictures of the neighbors and the other wine makers at the time because to me they are artists and it was so inspiring to be able to see them everyday at work,” Perez said. “That’s how the idea of this book kind of started. There was so much to tell, the stories behind what they do is what makes it so interesting.” “The Winemakers of Paso Pobles” is also available for purchase on Amazon.com and at local wineries.
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805.265.5474
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This is the Beginning of Something Good!
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TREAT YOURSELF TO AN INDULGENT EXPERIENCE OF OLIVE OIL AND VINEGAR TASTING. REJUVENATE WITH NATURE BY WALKING THROUGH THE OLIVE ORCHARD
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Award Winning, Hand Crafted Wines
Passion, hard work and dedication produce the varietal character, flavor and velvet finish that is the trademark of our wines.
Taste New Release and Library Wines including Cabernet, Zinfandel, Pinot, Chardonnay, Bordeaux, Rhone, Italian varietals and Ports.
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Open Daily 10:30-5:30 2875 Oakdale Road, Paso Robles off Highway 46 West (805) 237-1600 • www.huntcellars.com
Premium Estate Grown Wines since 1996
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FEATURED DINING
KITCHENETTE:
W
it’s what’s for breakfast (or lunch!)
By Sonja Eschenburg OF VINO MAGAZINE
ord on the street is that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. According to brothers Michael and Chris Kobayashi, co-owners and operators of Kitchenette, located at 105 South Main St. in Templeton, that rumor could not be more true. While the duo grew up in Bishop, both eventually transplanted closer to the coast. Michael moved to Los Angeles and became heavily involved in the music industry, having worked with artists like Michael Jackson and Mick Jagger in the past and today managing rock
group Def Leppard. In the meantime, Chris went on to graduate from the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco in 2002. By 2006 the pair had opened their first Paso Robles eatery, The Artisan, where Chris worked as the head chef. About a year and a half ago, Chris pitched to his brother the idea of opening a second restaurant in the area. “We knew the Central Coast would stay an up-andcoming region because of all the wines,” Michael said. “Both of us also really enjoyed the Templeton Farmers Market. In the end that’s what made us want to open a Continued on page 18
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Photo by Luke Phillips
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faster-paced, counter service that would mimic the same style.” That’s where Kitchenette came into play. As an Orange County native, when I think of Templeton, an old-timey, country feel comes to mind and Kitchenette is a perfect reflection of that. With it’s modern white walls, chic barn doors, wooden tables and concrete floors you can’t help but feel welcome and right at home. The building itself is on the smaller side, but not in such way that guests feel crowded. Tables, both inside and outside on the shaded patio, sit close enough together that you feel included in all of the morning’s action and hustle and bustle. The food and beverages follow a similar style. “While it is our goal to take standard, common (breakfast and lunch) items and elevate them with our own twist, our philosophy is to think local,” Michael, who manages the business and front of house side of things,
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said. “It all comes down to the products and we are proud of what this area has to offer.” In 2009 Chris was nominated for his first James Beard Award, an award for cuisine, culinary writing and culinary education in the United States. Although Chris had at the time only just dipped his toes into the restaurant business, that did not affect his work. In 2010 he continued on to earn the Ultimate Chef Competition title, and in 2011 was once again nominated for Best Chef of the Pacific. To say Chris knows what he’s doing would be an understatement. A Kitchenette first-timer, I didn’t know what to try first, but after asking around it was confirmed the ultimate dining experience would include a bite of at least three favorite dishes: the pastrami reuben, which includes braised red cabbage, house Russian dressing, Dijon and Swiss cheese; the almond croissant French toast which includes strawberry jam, cream cheese and honey
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whipped cream; and the pork pozole verde which includes linguica, avocado, cabbage, feta cheese, jalapeño and a lightly crisped boiled egg. Each dish was, literally and figuratively, a mouthful, in the absolute best way possible. Every single bite dripped with a savory goodness that, while powerful, was not overbearing. Plates presented not only picturesque aesthetics, but equally rich and mouth-watering flavors. While the food is of course vital, mood and environment play just as big a role in an eatery’s success, Michael said. “I am a strong believer that a restaurant’s food is only as good as its service,” he said. Kitchenette is open daily from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. For more information, call 400-1006 or visit www.kitchenettetempleton.com.
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FEATURED OLIVE OIL
HorseTail Ranch
Boccabella
More than just a pretty name
By Madeline Vail OF VINO MAGAZINE ucked within the rolling hills of San Miguel I thought we could do that.” there lies a precious little olive oil farm named Not long after they purchased a 10 acre property with Boccabella with a love story to match. Just over four acres planted with 3,000 arbequina olive trees, “We three years ago, Shaana Rahman and John Jantz, walked through the orchard and we just fell in love with it,” were visiting the Central Coast in search of a romantic said Rahman. “getaway” in Pismo Beach. After coming across a real They now find themselves in their third year of estate magazine in a gas station on their way back to the production with their popularity and business having Bay area, Rahman came upon an ad for an olive farm and grown bigger and better with both customers and was suddenly inspired. products every year. While there were some growing Rahman thought to herself, “Wow you know, this could pains, they seem to have been minor and somewhat be interesting. I wanted a new business and he’s a chef, so comical. Besides adapting from city life to the physically
T
Continued on page 22
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demanding work of farming, Rahman said, “I spent the first year stumbling upon and screaming at all kinds of creepy, wild things I would come across on the property.” Jantz, however, having grown up in Lompoc before meeting Rahman in San Francisco, adapted quite easily according to Rahman. With everything from the conception of the name, the development of the labels, the marketing and the product itself — every step has been both purely organic and authentic. For instance, the namesake was derived from Rahman’s maternal grandmother’s last name. “We had our name, Boccabella, which means beautiful mouth, you know it sounds like an olive oil,” said Jantz, “and then we had our first harvest and we were trying to figure out what our label was going to be…” Rahman jumped in with the full story, ”So I have all my mother’s art from when she was in art school and beyond, 50- 60 years of work. I was going through it and came upon this original woodblock print of Grandma Boccabella sitting in a rocking chair and I thought this is perfect! So we used it for our first blend, our estate blend, the 100 percent arbequina. Then when we came up with the field blend the following year I went back through her paintings and found an original oil on canvas of Grandma Boccabella sitting in an armchair so we used that. And then this year, when we came up with the Winemaker’s Blend I went back through the work and never saw this piece before, a watercolor of Grandpa Boccabella sitting in the same rocking chair from the first label.” “And apparently Grandpa happened to be quite the home-made winemaker,” Jantz said. “He used to blend wine in the bathtub in the house in Long Island, at least that’s the story,” laughs Rahman. Organic, authentic and 22
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nostalgic. The development of their latest release, the Winemaker’s Blend, is particularly fascinating. “We had a bunch of winemakers come out: Christian Tjietje, Adam Lazar, Teri Colton, Stew McLennan, and Jason Yeager from Niner all came out and after a few hours came up with this blend. I gave them our arbequina, and six different varietals to play with. I wanted that winemaker’s approach. It was an idea we’ve had for awhile. I wanted a winemaker’s palate. Their educated palate and their sense of blending because that’s what they do with wine and we’re in wine country you know, so it makes sense,” Jantz said. “It was a great time and they turned out this fantastic blend and I’m super excited. It’s crazy good. It’s got all of these tropical notes in the beginning, big butter notes in the mid palate and then a big robust finish like the arbequino. So we’re really excited about it and it completes the series now. Like I said it organically evolved. When we decided on this first label we had no idea about these other two.” As she stands in the tasting room looking over the shelf perfectly lined with all three oils with all three labels in the series, Rahman laughs to herself and says out loud in regard to the labels, ”You know, if my mom was standing here right now I think she would be secretly pleased but outwardly mortified.” The oil on the shelves isn’t the only thing set perfectly in place in their tasting room/test kitchen. The entire space is immaculate with stainless steel, bright lights and spotless white walls. This is no ordinary oil manufacturing facility, this is a true chef’s kitchen that is doubling as such. And Rahman’s initial instinct that Jantz' professional experience as a chef made perfect sense was proven true from the very beginning with Jantz being one of their best
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customers. According to Jantz, especially after suffering from a heart attack two years ago, they use olive oil in everything. “When I cook at home or for events or whatever I use it a lot as a finishing oil,” Jantz said. “As a chef we’re told to salt and pepper and season everything appropriately so I always taste my food at the end and it may need a little hint of salt but often I don’t go with the black pepper. I just drizzle some of the arbequino over it and it not only gives it that nice robust black pepper finish it also gives it some moisture and a fatty feel,” says Jantz. They saute with it, marinate with it, bake with it and even use it as a body scrub. Actually, Rahman has a line of body scrubs — one sugar and one salt — that sell for $7 a jar and apparently not only smells good enough to eat, they actually are, at least according to one customer. “I have the one that is salt and lavender with a little bit of lemon peel and another that is made with brown sugar and vanilla — it smells like cookies,” Rahman said. “I like that one,” interjected Jantz and apparently others prefer that one as well. “At one of our tasting booths this woman put some sugar scrub on her shoulder and her husband licked it off right then and there. She bought some,” Rahman said. Although the scrubs are not intended for consumption, Rahman has plenty of legitimate baked goodies made with olive oil that are just as delicious as they are healthy and again the inspiration came from none other than Grandma Boccabella. “I lived with her when I was a kid,” Rahman said. “She was a big cook so she would take me in the kitchen and she always had a big tin of olive oil in the kitchen and she taught me how to bake.” Rahman insists she has absolutely replaced butter with olive oil in everything she makes and has even gone to the trouble to create a conversion chart to literally convert her customers from butter users as well. From the chocolate chip cookies to Rahman’s favorite, her olive oil chocolate cake, both Jantz and Rahman agree that olive oil makes everything better both in texture and flavor. Several of their recipes can be found on their website and in the soon to be published book by local author Lisa Pretty, “Eat This With... Paso Robles Wine.” When asked what they ascribe to their quickly realized success, besides the awards, the tastings and the prolific amount of high profile events in partnership with some of the top winemakers in the area, Jantz said, “I really think it boils down to outstanding product and we have a real passion for it. Those two things and the organic way the labels have evolved, our love for each other and our passion for the property and our support in this community, all of those things have sort of come together and it’s just kind of happened.” Boccabella Farms is open to the public offering farm fresh products, chef prepared meals for events, and of course, extra virgin olive oil which you can bottle yourself. www.boccabellafarms.com
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CHOCOLATE OLIVE OIL CAKE
3/4 cup all purpose flour 1/4 cup almond flour 1/2 cup cocoa powder 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon salt 4 large eggs, at room temperature 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon of vanilla 1/4 cup unsweetened applesauce 1/2 cup of Boccabella Farms Arbequina Extra Virgin Olive Oil 3 tablespoons freshly brewed coffee 1/2 cup of powdered sugar Zest and juice from one orange Zest the orange and add half the zest to the olive oil, set aside. Reserve the remaining zest and the juice of the orange for the glaze. Sift the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, cinnamon and salt and set aside. In another bowl beat the eggs until blended, then slowly add the sugar and continue beating until the mixture is thick and pale yellow, about three minutes by hand. Once the mixture is thick and pale yellow, add the applesauce, coffee and vanilla and mix to combine. Slowly add the flour mixture into the egg mixture until just combined. The last step is to fold in the olive oil by adding it in a thin drizzle. Pour batter into a greased and floured 8” round cake pan. Bake for 25-27 minutes at 375 degrees in a pre-heated oven. Cool the cake in the pan for 10 minutes and then flip onto a cooling rack. While the cake is cooling, prepare the glaze. Whisk the powdered sugar with the reserved orange zest, and add the orange juice until the mixture reaches a glaze consistency. While the cake is still warm, spoon the glaze over the cake. July/August 2017
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FEATURED DINING By Madeline Vail OF VINO MAGAZINE f the The Hatch could be summed up in a few words it would be creative cocktails and comfort food swathed in an amber glow of brick, wood and stainless steel. But there is so much more to it than that. Having opened only two years ago by local couple Maggie Cameron and Eric Connolly, The Hatch has firmly established itself as a local favorite, a place to see and be seen with an exceptional cocktail list and a solid “made from scratch” simple, yet elegant menu. One would think, due to the popularity of the “always on the menu” succulent rotisserie chickens and down home, fried to perfection chicken that the name was poultry inspired, but rather the name derives from Connelly’s original registered business name, “Down the Hatch” which was intended for a bar. “When they opened this it was more of a bar that was going to serve food but as time went on it became more of a restaurant that had a bar,” said executive chef Nick Deshon. And it’s no wonder with the pedigree Deshon brought with him from Las Vegas. About two years ago Deshon and his wife decided to move to Paso Robles. “I saw an ad in Craigslist and applied,” Deshon said. “I worked as sous chef for about six months and then moved into the executive chef position.” Having had worked for Joël Robuchon at the MGM Grand, Deshon’s quick rise through the ranks is no surprise. The history of lovely surprises in the culmination of The Hatch started at the very beginning. “We’ve always known this would be the next step for us,” Cameron said. “But we kind of looked around and we cobbled together this vision for a restaurant, we talked about it for a long time but then we won a full liquor license in the county lottery and it was go time. We were picked, and from that day, you have 90 days to put your liquor license in a storefront window of a restaurant.” “Most people have their act together when they put their name in — we did not,” she said with a laugh. And then there was the space. “We loved this space,” Cameron said. “We used to come here when it was Bernick’s way back in the day. We liked the size of it, we liked that the size is totally manageable so you can
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Not your typical “neighborhood bar” but then again, it is. 24
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talk to everyone easily and we love the open kitchen. It was just a very nostalgic place for us. We actually wrote our business plan around this spot and then miraculously the space became available.” And now the cocktails. Says Cameron, “We wouldn’t have opened without a full liquor license.The cocktail scene was such an important part of the whole dining atmosphere that we wanted to provide. We wanted great cocktails and a great whiskey selection to be part of that. And now we have our ‘cocktail czar’ who’s taking that to the new level.” The ‘cocktail czar’ Cameron if referring to is Robin Kirk Wolf. Yet another example of perfect timing and happy surprises. Having been born and reared in San Luis Obispo, Wolf, who also owns the SLO Bitters Co. and often incorporates them into her cocktails, has been in the service industry for more than 16 years. Having spent the past ten years in Manhattan, Wolf recently moved back to her hometown and decided to make her laboratory of libations in downtown Paso Robles behind the bar at The Hatch. The cocktail list is changed seasonally, as is the menu. With Spring upon us, the original concoctions conjured up by not only the czar but the other bartenders as well
contain fresh herbs and a lot of fresh produce. The latest, being The Silly Rabbit, made with fresh carrot juice, ginger, lime and bourbon is an exquisite example. “I came by cocktails when I spent about a decade living in Manhattan,” Wolf said. “I lived there during the hipster cocktail renaissance so it was a really fun thing to witness and be a part of and I really wanted to bring part of that back when I moved back to the Central Coast. I loved, more than anything, and it seems crazy knowing what I’m doing now, but I think my favorite places to work in New York were the dive bars, the neighborhood joints because you really get a chance to make that connection with your regular customers and kind of let that drive the business rather than shoehorning concepts in.” To Wolf, while obviously not a dive bar, The Hatch still draws some similarities in that, “I love that I know such a large percentage of the people who walk in that door and if I don’t remember their name I will certainly remember what they drink and they trust us enough that they let us play around with cocktails. We’ve designed new cocktail recipes that way. It’s a reciprocal relationship.” The other bartenders completely agree. The always effervescent member of the cocktail team, Karlie Higgenbotham, who presently goes by Karl, exclaims, Continued on page 34
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Downtown Paso Robles Arroyo Robles Pianetta
Bodegas Paso Robles 13th St
Parrish Family
Lusso Della Terra
Rabbit Hole Grizzly Republic Chateau Lettau
Herman Story
Frolicking Frog
12th St
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Park St.
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Riverside Ave.
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Starr Ranch
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VINO Central Coast Edition
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CALENDAR OF EVENTS JULY 22
JULY 29
Fundraiser • $85 per ticket • winemakerscookoff.com
1st Annual Lobster FEST Wine dinner • $150 per person, $120 for Wine Club Members • adelaida. com
10th Anniversary Weekend at Vina Robles Vineyards & Winery Wine dinner • $35 per person, $25 for Wine Club Members • vinarobles.com
Join 30 wineries and breweries from Paso Robles for the 19th annual PR Rotary Winemakers' Cookoff from 6 to 9 p.m.! Great food, wine, beer and fun! All money raised goes to college scholarships for local high school seniors. Cookoff will be held at the Paso Robles Event Center located at 2198 Riverside Avenue in Paso Robles.
The Adelaida event you won’t want to miss! Roll up your sleeves and join us for our first annual Lobster Fest! Savor delicious Adelaida wines, delicious hors d’oeurves, and once all the bibs are tied, Sorensen Catering pours steaming pots full of lobsters, prawns, artichokes, potatoes, onions, and corn along the table. Get your groove on as our DJ from Kramer Events spins your favorite tunes, and be sure to capture the memories at the photo booth. The evening will be filled with games, raffle drawings for magnums, Adelaida swag and more. Be creative and dress in your best nautical gear—a prize will be awarded! Contact events@adelaida.com for member promotional code. Adelaida Vineyards and Winery is located on 5805 Adelaida Road in Paso Robles.
3rd Annual Whale Rock Wine Down Tourney Wine Tasting • $35 Members, $50 Non-Members, $20 Non-Players • castorocellars.com The Whale Rock Wine Down Tourney is our annual fun spirited celebration of the course’s introduction in 2014. This tournament is held to appreciate the beautiful disc golf community on the Central Coast and beyond that have made this course thrive for 3 years! You are all the heart and soul of this place, and we thank you. This non-PDGA sanctioned event gives you a chance to get out with your fellow disc golfers and toss a stress free round enjoying what you love most about the sport. Take the edge off slightly but compete at a high, constructive level. There are some great prizes and giveaways to be had! The round is capped off at the Castoro Cellars tasting room with a local catered lunch, wine and beer tasting galore. Thank you for your support in making WRDGC a world class disc golf course and for respecting it as a place to foster a healthy community of plastic throwing friends. Register online at castorocellars.com. Castoro Cellars is located at 1315 N Bethel Road in Templeton.
JULY 28 Frankie Valli "Catered Dinner" Wine dinner • $150 per person, $120 for Wine Club Members • adelaida.com Would you like to enjoy your "Evening of Music & Wine" and not cook? Have your “Nod to the East Coast” dinner catered by Paso Catering Co. who will deliver this freshly prepare delicious meal with silverware included. Call (805) 712-1711 for more information or visit pasocatering.com
Celebrate our Hospitality Center’s 10th anniversary milestone on the weekend of July 29-30 with a “barbecue clam bake” prepared by Executive Chef Randy Torres. The festivities will include dancing and live music by The Martin Paris Band and a wine special. Wine and other beverages will be available for purchase. Reservations are required. Vina Robles Vineyards & Winery located at 3700 Mill Road in Paso Robles.
AUGUST 5 Dine in the Vines Wine dinner • $150 per person, $120 for Cellar Club Members • eberlewinery.com It's one of the most romantic dinners we do each year... pull out the tables and the twinkle lights and dine in the vines in the Eberle Estate vineyard. This year's Dine in the Vines event features one of Paso's original "farm to fork" restaurants, Thomas Hill Organics. Chef Justin Casey sources local meat and produce to create straight-fromthe-earth dynamic menus. Enjoy a great meal, live string music and award winning Eberle wines at this annual dinner in the vineyard. You can purchase tickets online at shop.eberlewinery.com or you may contact events@ eberlewinery.com or call (805) 238-9607.
AUGUST 12 DAOU’s 10th Anniversary Celebration: Bond 007 Wine dinner • $495 per ticket, $4,000 per table • daouvineyards.org Exclusive and confidential: You are invited to the Bond 007 Gala—a lavish affair commemorating DAOU’s 10th anniversary from 4:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. The moment you step foot on the mountain, you will enter into a rapturous world of magic, mystique and extravagance, all unfolding through the daring lens of James Bond. Throughout the evening, you will savor a progressive theater of Bond-themed experiences, to include live music, exotic animals, cirque performances and much more. The spectacle will be crowned with a delectable feast and DAOU wines will be plentiful to the end. This will be the last DAOU gala until our 15th anniversary. Time and availability are getting short, so please reserve your attendance now. We cannot wait to make history with you. Purchase tickets online: http://bit.ly/2sDKwFB Limited reservations available $495 per person plus tax and $4,000 per table (10 people) plus tax. DAOU is located at 2777 Hidden Mountain Road in Paso Robles.
Paso Robles Rotary Winemakers' Cookoff 28
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AUGUST 15 Rhone Rangers BBQ Wine tasting and dinner • $65 per ticket • daouvineyards.org Celebrate summer with an evening wine tasting and BBQ dinner with 29 Paso Robles Rhône Ranger wineries! Enjoy your favorite Paso Robles Rhône wines paired with artisan cheese from Vivant Fine Cheese and a BBQ dinner prepared by Chef Jacob of the Cass Cafe. Live music with The Blimp Pilots completes the hot August evening. From 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. Wine Tasting paired with Artisan Cheeses and from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. BBQ dinner and dancing. Please note advance tickers are required for the tasting and BBQ dinner and are available at rhonesonrange2017.bpt.me. Tickets will not be available at the door. Event is held at Cass Winery at 7350 Linne Road in Paso Robles from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m.
AUGUST 19 6th Annual Midsummer BBQ Wine tasting • croadvineyards.org Croad Vineyards will be holding their 6th Annual Midsummer BBQ from 6 to 9 p.m. More details to follow at croadvineyards.org. Croad Vineyards is located at 3550 Vinedo Robles Lane in Paso Robles.
Evening Under the Estrella Sky Fundraiser • $125 - $875 • GraveyardVineyards.com Evening Under the Estrella Sky at Hartley Farms 13 Wineries from the Pleasant Valley Wine Trail have teamed up with Trumpet Vine Catering to create a special evening to raise funds for the Pleasant Valley Elementary School. 6-6:45pm Wine Tasting & Hors d’oeuvres Mingle with the winemakers and owners of the The Pleasant Valley Wine Trail Wineries in the beautiful, outdoor setting at Hartley Farms for a unique wine tasting experience. Sit back and relax as you enjoy this decadent four course dinner. The winemakers have paired multiple wines with each course and will tell you a little about the wine as they pour. Graveyard Vineyards is located at 6990 Estrella Road in San Miguel from 6 to 9 p.m.
AUGUST 26 Central Coast Beef & Wine Festival Wine pairing • $95 per person • SarzottiWinery.com Central Coast Edition VINO
CALENDAR OF EVENTS Join us as we celebrate our locally grown from ranches and producers who grow both beef AND wine! From 6 to 9 p.m. graze and sip your way through the historic Halter Ranch barnyard savoring beef prepared various ways while pairing and tasting wines from many of our local producers. Halter Ranch is located on 8910 Adelaida Road in Paso Robles. This educational beef & wine event is a fundraiser for must! charities and San Luis Obispo CattleWomen.
AUGUST 27 Dionysus Dash Paso Robles Wine Run Wine run and tasting • $49.99 -$59.99 per ticket • dionysusdash.com Please join us for a 5k run/walk through the beautiful vineyards at Vina Robles Winery located at 3700 Mill Road in Paso Robles. This event is for the novice and avid runners, wine tasters and Greek walkers. We will have wine tasting, music and awards. It is time to run the trail with the "Greek God of Wine" Dionysus We encourage everyone to bring out their TOGA's and greek head pieces. 6:30 a.m. - Winery Gates Open at 6:30 a.m. and Race Day packet pickup from 6:30 a.m. -7:30 a.m. 8:15 a.m. Race Time with wine tastings to immediately follow after participants cross the finish line. Feel free
to stay to picnic and hang out at the Winery after you complete your run. Event concludes at 11a.m. No outside liquor allowed.
SEPTEMBER 2 46West Block Party at Dark Star Cellars Wine tasting • castorocellars.com Join us on Saturday, September 2, 2017 from 6:30 - 9 p.m. The Block Party includes wine tasting with the member wineries of the 46 West in a casual ‘mini-wine festival’ atmosphere, along with an amazing dinner and rockin’ live music to dance the night away to. Party includes wine tasting with the 17-member wineries in a casual 'miniwine festival' atmosphere, along with great grub and live music to dance the night away to. Guests must be 21+ to attend.
SEPTEMBER 9 Paint and Wine Social Wine dinner • $45 per ticket, $70 club members • WildCoyote.biz
the process of painting a sugar skull while sipping on your favorite beverage our Wine To Die For!® of course! Bring out the Van Gogh in you while enjoying delicious wine. Ticket includes a glass of wine and your very own piece of art to take home. All your supplies (canvas, paints, brushes and apron) are provided for you. There’s no experience necessary, just a desire to have fun and create something amazing. RSVP required, please email wineclub@graveyardvineyards.com or phone (805) 467 - 2043.
SEPTEMBER 16 Private Winemaker Dinner Wine dinner • $80 per ticket, $70 club members • WildCoyote.biz Cantina dinners are once a month, always on a Saturday night from 6 to 9 p.m., at Wild Coyote Estate Winery, 3775 Adelaida Road in Paso Robles. It is one-seating only, for a maximum of 20 guests. Owner and winemaker Gianni will make an appearance and toast a glass of wine with all his guests. His wife Kati is the main host, preparing all the fresh "farm-to-table" food and serving in a family-style hospitality.
Professional artist, Karyn Blaney, will instruct you through
Hit the trail for a personal, uncrowded, true wine country experience. Speak to the owner or winemaker in an intimate, unhurried atmosphere.
Make the Creston Wine Trail your weekend destination. Visit us on First Fridays for special pourings and pairings. CrestonWineTrail.com VINO Central Coast Edition
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Offering group and private classes utilizing the Pilates Reformer, Chair and Trap Table. We are all highly certified, trained Pilates professionals with years of teaching experience.
Nothing changes your body like PILATES! OVER
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Established studio (10 years!) with Pilates apparatus & mat classes 5815 Traffic Way, Atascadero | 805.466.9642 | NorthCountyPilates.com
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unique wire wrapping, beading custom jewelry design
805.226.6742 clblondie65@gmail.com
Gallery at Marina Square, Morro Bay CA
robbacart.com 821 Paso Robles St. Paso Robles, Ca 93446
Burgers • Sandwiches Hot Dogs Salads • Frosty Treats Mon-Sat 10:30am to 7pm 628 So. Main Street, Templeton 805.434.9200 www.MartinsOnMain.com 30
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Kiamie Wine Cellars Come stay with us in Paso Robles Wine Country
Complimentary BBQ Sundays with Wine Tasting Come visit us at the end of Adelaida Road next to Tolo Winery.
Reasonably Priced • Walking Distance to the Paso Robles Event Center • Family Owned & Operated for over 50 Years
We are located on the beautiful Westside of Paso Robles at 9750 Adelaida Road. 805-226-8333 • kiamiewines.com
1215 Ysabel Avenue at HWY 101 and 46 East (805) 238-2770 or (800) 549-PASO (7276) adelaideinn.com
Ultimate Comfort DefiHotel! ned Paso’s Newest 90 Room Ultimate Comfort Deened Center Fitness Fitness Center Fitness Center Dog Friendly Friendly Dog Dog Friendly Free High-Speed WiFi Free High-SpeedWiFi WiFi Free High-Speed Heated Outdoor Pool Outdoor Pool&&&SpaSpa Spa HeatedHeated Outdoor Pool Meeting Room Meeting Room Meeting Room EV Charging Stations EV Charging Stations EV Charging BusinessStations Center Business Complimentary HotCenter Breakfast Buffet Business Center
Complimentary Hot Breakfast Buffet 3000 Riverside Avenue • Paso Robles, CA 93446 • (805) 237-8700 • www.PasoOaks.com VINO Central Coast Edition
3000 riverside avenue, paso robles ca RESERVATIONS (805) 237-8700
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Tasting Notes with Stan Angel
The Basics of Pairing
WHEN THE HEAT IS ON Porch pounding can be a lot more delicate than it sounds
W
hat wine to serve with my meal? This is the quandary that has faced those of us that enjoy wine and food together for centuries because if we successfully match the wine to the meal it can elevate an ordinary meal to extraordinary. It use to be “white wine with fish, fowl or pork, red wine with beef and heartier dishes.” Oh, but we’ve come a long way from those days, and not in a good way. As with everything, just add in a whole lot of opinions, some science and a touch of “old wives’ tales” and you have even greater confusion then previously. Well, take heart my friends — we can simplify the entire process so that the next time you select a wine to go with your meal, you can do it with confidence. Rule no. 1: Drink wine you love. Living on the Central Coast we have a tremendous advantage. We can taste a lot of wines and discover wines we love without walking down the aisles of the local wine store and wondering if we will like what we buy. When we pull a bottle out, chances are we have sampled it and know what’s in the bottle. Rule no. 2: When in doubt, refer to rule number one. Now with that said, there are a few suggestions (I hesitate to call them 32
July/August 2017Continued on page 40
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By Madeline Vail OF VINO MAGAZINE
ith temperatures rising in wine country, visions of barbecues and pool parties dance in one’s head. But with a region that is famous for huge reds that tend to have a fairly high alcohol content, one can be at a loss as what to serve under the California sun that will keep them and their guests feeling light and refreshed while pairing expertly with summertime fare. When when pondering over this potential conundrum, the first person that came to this reporter’s mind was none other than local wine expert and certified advanced sommelier, Ali Carscaden. Found out on the welcoming patio of her delightful wine shop and bistro, 15C in Templeton, Cascaden kicked her feet up with a freshly poured glass as she expertly suggested a manageable list of vintages to buy now, in great price ranges, to satisfy any palate and course on the menu under the hot summer sun. Her first suggestion, and very appropriately a wine she considers the perfect “starter,” or aperitif, for any meal is a vinho verde from the Verde region in Northern Portugal. “It’s super inexpensive, like under 10 bucks a bottle,” she said. “I like to call them porch pounders, pool pounders, because they usually come in a screw cap and besides being super crisp and refreshing they’re typically only about 9 percent alcohol. So a lot of people do more day drinking than normally — like by the pool, the lake and vinho verdes are the perfect summer white wine.” The vinho verde varietal is grown in northern Portugal which has a cooler climate, so the grapes don’t get quite as ripe. Therefore the wine has a light green color, a nice little Continued on page 41
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101
Vintage 1255
San Luis Obispo San Luis Wine Bar Meze
CC Wines 101 LAGUNA LAKE PARK
Cerro Caliente Cellars
Stephen Ross Winery
Filipponi Ranch
Refugio Ranch Vineyards
Clesi Wines
Tolosa Winery
Kelsey See Canyon Vineyards
True Myth Saucelito Baileyana Canyon Tangent Autry Biddle Ranch Trenza Cellars Vineyard Cadre Edna Valley Zocker Vineyards Wolff Vineyard Piedra Creek Chamisal Vineyards
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Sextant Claiborne & Churchill
Kynsi Vineyards
Culton Wine Co. Alapay Cellars Sinor-Lavallee Avila Wine & Peloton Roasting
Avila Beach
Port San Luis
Talley Vineyards Bishops Peak 101
Shell Beach
Center of Effort Wine
Sans Liege Taste of the Valleys
Pismo Beach 101
Grover Beach Grover City
Phantom Rivers
Oaks
Arroyo Grande
Oceano
101
Laetitia Vineyard
Halcyon 101
PISMO DUNES NATURAL PRESERVE
South San Luis Obispo County Winery Map
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Continued from page 25
“What do I like best about this place? All my friends sitting at the bar.” Getting to know the customers is a common theme here. When asked what Deshon likes best about working there, he replied, “The open kitchen, the wood fire. But mostly I like being able to see people enjoy our food and the interaction with the guests.” One of those friends/guests is local winemaker Riley Hubbard who recently enjoyed drinks at the bar with local helicopter pilot Dave Brooks. “I love my bartender friend Karlie, I love the food, the wine, I like the owners too, it’s fun,” Hubbard said. And Brooks responds, “The grits and the cocktails. The cocktails especially.” And for a little local advice, something not on the menu, “The grits plus the mushrooms, you put them together, it’s amazing,” Hubbard said. Which brings us back to the food. With the menu always changing, one thing you can always count on is the overarching theme, which is savory, mouth watering, deliciousness. Besides great burgers, the ever popular shrimp and grits, fried chicken, meatloaf, fresh charred seasonal vegetables or some amazing pasta offering, there will always be, “simple wood-fired rotisserie,” Cameron said. “We want the menu to be super easy, super accessible. Not a menu where you sit down to dinner and have to pull out a dictionary and figure what every other ingredient is. Its simple, its rustic. We always have rotisserie chickens spinning every day, and Monday through Thursday we have rotisserie specials. Fried chicken, ribs, it’s comfort food definitely.” The Hatch is now open seven days per week. Call for hours, and reservations are always recommended, even for the bar. 34
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ARTISAN, COASTAL, SINCE 1994
Visit our Tasting Room & Winery Open Thurs-Sun, 11-5 178 Suburban Rd San Luis Obispo, CA 805.594.1318
www.stephenrosswine.com
TEMPLETON PIZZA
& Greek Food Catering to All Wineries!
The Carlton Hotel ~52 Rooms & Suites ~ Artisanal Bakery & Cafe ~ ~Private Event Spaces ~ Select Dog Friendly Rooms ~
Wine Country I Atascadero, CA I 805.461.5100 I THECARLTON.COM
Open Daily by Appointment Located just 2.3 miles from Mission San Miguel
950 Indian Dune Road San Miguel, CA 93451
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As temperatures reached the upper 90s, the shade trees at Atascadero Lake Park provided shelter for hundreds of wine enthusiasts as the 23rd annual Atascadero Lakeside Wine Festival brought together more than 50 wineries, all the benefit the nearby Charles Paddock Zoo. “We have visitors from as far as Orange County, the Central Valley and the Bay Area as well,” said Atascadero Chamber of Commerce President Linda Hendy. “And then there’s a lot of locals too — we call it the locals’ favorite.”
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An estimated 3,000 guests, 74 wineries and 12 different caterers and chefs descended upon the Downtown City Park on May 19 for the 35th Annual Paso Robles Wine Festival. Despite the large amount of people they “got everyone in the door within two minutes,� said Chris Toronto, director of Communications for the Paso Robles Wine Alliance.
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The Templeton Park on Crocker and 5th was filled to the brim with activity during the Templeton Wine Festival, sponsored by Coastal Community Builders and produced by the Templeton Chamber of Commerce on May 6 and the Templeton Beer Festival, hosted by the Templeton Rotary Club on May 7. In what threatened to be a very wet weekend, both events had ticket sales that exceeded expectations and hundreds of happy participants. Proceeds raised from the Beer Fest will go toward two projects that the Templeton Rotary is working on: the Viacha, Bolivia welding project which involves an orphanage training the boys to become welders so they have a marketable skill when they age out of the orphanage and the girls orphanage is preparing the girls for careers in the local hospitality industry, said Vreeken.
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rules because really there are no rules) that may help with your wine selections come dinner time. Hopefully, by employing these tips we can discover some amazing combinations while avoiding the disappointing ones. The obvious thing is you don’t want a wine that overtakes the subtle flavors of your food nor do you want food that has such strong flavors that it masks the gentle taste of your wine. Matching weights of food with the weight of the wine — it sounds complicated but is truly simple. If you think of “heavy” foods or hearty dishes such as beef, grilled or braised meats, anything particularly spicy or a dish with a heavy sauce, you would want to pair it with a comparable wine like Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir. Lighter fare such as mild fish, shellfish or salad dishes a lighter wine such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling. Also, matching the intensity of the wine with the intensity of the food can also produce the desired pairing results. A very concentrated Bordeaux would go well with a spicy beef stew or roasted lamb. While a lighter Pinot Noir may be a better choice with pork tenderloin. A lot of our favorite foods, both meat and dairy products, have high levels of fat. Wine doesn’t contain fat so when matching a wine with fatty foods remember that it has to balance that fat by cutting it with tannin and matching its richness with alcohol. This is why a prime cut of steak tastes so good with a Cabernet-based wine — the beef's protein and fat softens up the wine’s mouth-drying tannins. This sets up the tongue for the wine’s fruit and berries and forest flavors to complement the smoky, meaty flavors of the steak. I have found that with regard to this my holiday turkey (very low in fat but seasoned with salt) pairs well with a dry white sparkling wine. The bubbles in the wine coupled with the light fruitiness is the perfect complement to poultry. The carbonation and yeasty acids emulate beer and clean the salt from your palate while adding more interesting textures and flavor nuances. Salt is also a principal flavor in briny seafood such as oysters. Acidic wines clean out the salt and balance the rich ocean flavors of the oyster. When matching sweet foods and desserts, match with an even sweeter wine. Some would enjoy a big, fruity, even tannic red with chocolate. However, sweet foods can make dry or even slightly dry wines taste bitter. When your palate is saturated with sugar the fruity elements of the wine tend to disappear. From my experience, once you sample your favorite chocolate with a rich red Port wine, you’re hooked. The same principle says that sweet fruit desserts go well with Moscato wines both still and with bubbles. There are degrees of sweetness. Some recipes will have just a hint of sugar, such as a fruit sauce served over a pork loin. This light, fruity sweetness can be matched very well with rich white wines such as Chardonnay. Higher alcohol tends to give an impression of sweetness, and balances the sugar in the sauce. On the Central Coast we do love our barbecue. Here’s a 40
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suggestion: substitute the beer in the cooler with chilled Chardonnay, a light, fruit-forward Pinot Noir or even a peppery Shiraz. There are many wines that go well with barbecue, including white wines: • Chardonnay: This white works best with grilled fish, shellfish and chicken. It also is great with fresh grilled corn on the cob covered in butter. Look for ones without the oak aging for the most versatility. • Riesling: This sweet white works well with barbecue chicken, grilled vegetables, and even grilled pineapple. • Pinot Grigio: This dry white wine can be served with grilled vegetables and shrimp. And equally good red wines: • Zinfandel: This vibrant and full-bodied garnet red wine has hints of black cherry and black pepper, making it ideal to serve with barbecue food. Pair it with saucy ribs for a tasty treat. • Merlot: This red goes great with grilled chicken, pork, and summer salads. It has hints of fruit that work well with spicy dishes as well. • Shiraz: This spicy red is perfect to serve with red meat. Pair it with grilled steaks, smoked brisket, or any smoked meat. • Cabernet Sauvignon: This wine has notes that make it perfect to serve with burgers and steak. This deep red can stand up to sharp cheeses and any sauce or condiment. • Pinot Noir: This wine can be served with just about anything. It is easy to drink and works well with red meat, as well as fish. It can be served with grilled salmon, beef burgers, and even chicken. Winemakers have gotten so creative that it’s hard to keep up. Some red blends have very light fruity qualities that would pair well with light dishes while white wines being blended to be more fruit forward with citrus notes or as many winemakers describe, buttery. Pairing food with wine is as much science as it is an art. While there are guidelines we have to use those guidelines to explore new and different combinations. We need to remember, there are no errors just some wines work better than others and some dishes and it may come down to having an undesirable result and chalking it up to experience. Bon appétit.
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spritz and is low in alcohol content because it’s bottled right before fermentation is completed, Carscaden said. At the moment, Broadbent at $19 is one of her favorites. As for what to serve with a vinho verde, Carscaden suggests that, because it is so very light, it is perfect by itself or with appetizers or a nice cheese plate. While wine with a slight green cast may be adventurous and exciting for some, others may prefer to stay loyal to the ever popular rosé. Yet, due to its popularity the choices can be overwhelming and no two are alike. “I’m kind of color biased when it comes to rosés,” Carscaden said --“typically the lighter the color the better for me and usually if they’re really, really pale, really light in color that is a sign of how they were made.” There are two ways to make a rosé. The first and more popular involves the winemaker picking the red grapes, pressing them down and preventing the juice from sitting on the grape for very long. The second is what Carscaden refers to as the “more traditional” way, called Saignee, which literally means “free run” where the juice that runs off the freshly picked grapes rather than being pressed down. When considering that this method was created during the Middle Ages because it was safer to drink than the water, “traditional” seems to be an understatement. The latter results in a light red fruit with more floral components and typically has a little more acid and makes a more delicate style of rosé, Carscaden said. “To me, the reason why you want to drink rosé is for that fresh, springtime summer kind of feeling,” Carscaden said. “Also, rosés are meant to be drunk within a year from when they were made so you want to be drinking 2016 rosés right now. That’s like their peak.” Her top pick is the Trienne from Provence. At $16 a bottle, it’s an inexpensive, classic summertime Provence rosé. Moving through the menu to the main course, Carscaden suggests Vermentino from Sardinia, the second largest island in the Mediterranean. “You know when you think of the Mediterranean, you think of all these fabulous different food types,” she said. VINO Central Coast Edition
“Vermentino is actually synonymous with Rolle, a white Rhone grape from France — not a lot of people know that. The difference is, from Sardinia, you get a really nice minerality, almost like a salty or an ‘olivy’ characteristic because of the oceanic influence. But being a Rhone varietal you still get those stone-fruit characteristics. So you get some really nice peaches, apricots, and you get this really nice floral component. And then, unlike a lot of really heavy Rhones like Viognier, it finishes with a nice acidity and the underlying minerality. You know it’s little more of a fuller bodied white wine for summertime but it will hold up to richer style dishes such as grilled fish and especially shellfish like scallops, crabcakes, lobster.” The top pick is the 2015 Argiolas at $32. And then there is the indomitable red. For those that can’t imagine drinking anything else no matter the weather or the season, Carscaden’s suggestion is a Chinon, which is actually a Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. “A lot of people think that cab franc, because it’s one of the Bordeaux varietals, that it’s a big huge tannic red wine but being that it’s from the Loire, which is a fairly cooler climate, it comes off more like a light grenache or a pinot noir,” Carscaden said. “I love to serve this wine in the summer because it’s got these really, pretty tart red fruit notes like cherries and cranberries. I would serve it slightly chilled, especially in the summer and it will totally hold up to salmon — basically anything a pinot noir would go with — it would also be great for grilled veggies, grilled chicken, anything with that grilled smoky flavor.” Her top choice: the 2014 Les Petites Roches at $32. So dust off that grill and revel in the crunching sound of the frosty cubes as you bury the bottles in your favorite ice bucket. Then kick up your feet and enjoy a toast to another long hot summer made so much more enjoyable with great friends, fabulous food and a crisp, refreshing glass of — as the locals and even one our region’s most respected sommeliers refer to as — your favorite, “porch pounder.” 15C Wine Shop is located at 624 South Main Street, Templeton, CA. (805) 434 1554.
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P I C N I C S A N D PAT I O S Taking dining ‘al fresco’ to another level
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By Madeline Vail OF VINO MAGAZINE
ow to be clear, there are a plethora of wineries in the North County that make a great place to have a picnic, but a place where you can pretty much be assured that you will have an incredible table with an incredible view, and ample supplies in case you forgot anything, seven days per week is something else all together. Two fantastic choices for the west side are Halter Ranch Vineyard and Calcareous Vineyard with their stunning views and ample seating. “We encourage picnicking here,” said Halter Ranch tasting room manager Tony Quealy. “We can seat 96 people on our patio. There’s nothing better than a cold glass of rose with a beautiful view of the vineyard on a beautiful Paso day.” While both do indeed have incredible views, Calcareous wins on the panoramic level and as casual and friendly as
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Halter Ranch can be, you won’t be moving far from your table other than to get another bottle of wine. In contrast, Calcareous embraces good old fashioned outdoor fun with a giant Jenga game and cornhole on the lawn. There is also bocce ball on the upper terrace with its very own picnic table and gazebo. And if you forgot your picnic basket there’s plenty of pizza to be had from the outdoor pizza oven on the weekends or even gourmet offerings from the full kitchen. “We’re picnic-friendly, dog-friendly and starting in June we are bringing back our ‘Wine Down Wednesdays’ where we stay open until 8 p.m. with pizza and music,” said Jacqui Pailings. “It’s just such a great place to watch the sun go down with friends and family.” On the east side you’ll find two great choices, one rugged and the other refined. Cass Winery on Linne Road is the kind of place you’d expect a couple of cowboys to
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Where to get the goods... Di Raimondo’s Italian Market At Di Raimondo’s in downtown Paso Robles you are sure to find owner Jean Higgins or one of her several highly knowledgeable cheesemongers doling out samples of some of the most exquisite cheeses and pates that you’ve ever tasted. As if that wasn’t enough, as your munching away, you will be educated on not only the origin and style of the cheese but how it was made as well. “Our focus is on imported and domestic cheeses, meats, breads, accoutrements, and imported market items that are generally hard-to-find,” says Higgins. Known by locals as “the cheese shop” you’ll be in fromage heaven and be able to get everything you need in one stop. Open 7 days a week from 10-5 822 13th St, Paso Robles, CA 93446
Jack Creek Farms pull up to on their horses in the middle of a long ride. It boasts a large picnic area under an ancient oak tree and is nestled between the vineyard and a wild, but impressively ample chef’s garden. And if you came unprepared there is a full-service restaurant with some incredible outdoor patio seating. In contrast, Sculpterra’s brilliant green and bountiful formal gardens, with its monumental sculptures remind one of gentry life in the English countryside. One can dine under the shadow of several looming pieces or even enjoy some physical activity with the outdoor ping pong area and bocce courts. Of all the wineries visited, Sculpterra is probably the biggest encourager of picnics, to the point that besides their wide array of gourmet meats, cheeses, chocolates, crackers and just about any other picnic item you can dream of. They will even set you up with a cutting board, knives and plates. Mike and Carolyn Jennings, of Santa Clarita, have made a picnic at Sculpterra a treasured tradition. “We stay at La Bellasera and this is our tradition,” Mike said. “We always grab a picnic and we always come here. We love it here, it’s quiet. It’s not super crowded with the bus tours and it’s beautiful, just gorgeous.” “And the wines aren’t bad either,” Carolyn added with a laugh. VINO Central Coast Edition
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At this small 5th generation family farmstand, you’ll find fresh fruits and vegetable and on the weekends freshly baked goods. Hours are seasonal so you might want to call ahead. Farm stand: 805-239-1915
Emporio Alle-Pia Specializing in cured meats and Italian specialties. Open Mon - Fri 9-3 8390 El Camino Real Atascadero, CA 93422 (805) 461-6800
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Fall Show #NotYourAverageExpo
S U N D aY
Giveaways Champagne & Wine Food & Fun Free Admission Enter to win big at the 3:30 pm to 6:30 pm Money Booth At the Pavilion on the Lake
Oct. 1, 2017
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DA L E E V E R S S T U D I O
unique works of Art & design By Artist dale Evers
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PA R K ST R E ET • PA S O RO B L E S , C A 93 4 4 6 8 0 5 - 4 3 4 - 9 2 3 7 • w w w. d A L E E v E R S S T u d i O . C O m
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2nd Annual
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A FAMILY OF WINES
94 Points
2015 Mooney Family Pinot Noir Boekenoogen Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands –Wine Enthusiast, June 2017
94 Points & Editor’s Choice 2014 Mooney Family Pinot Noir –Wine Enthusiast November 2016
94 Points
2010 Chateau Margene Beau Mélange –Wine Enthusiast June 2015
93 Points
2012 Chateau Margene CASK 7 –Wine Enthusiast, December 2015
93 Points
2015 Mooney Family Pinot Noir Tondre Grapefield, Santa Lucia Highlands –Wine Enthusiast, June 2017
94 Points & Editor’s Choice 2012 Chateau Margene CASK 4 –Wine Enthusiast, April 2015
94 Points & Editor’s Choice
Gold Medal – Best in Class
2013 El Pistolero Pinot Noir –Wine Enthusiast, December 2015
Roxo Port Cellars 2012 Negrette –2016 Sunset Int’l Wine Competition
93 Points
93 Points
2013 Mooney Family Pinot Noir – Wine Spectator, June 2015
2012 Mooney Family Pinot Noir – Wine Enthusiast, December 2014
Double Gold Medal
El Pistolero 2015 Chardonnay “Cold Steel” –2016 International Chardonnay Symposium
Creston
TWO LOCATIONS
Friday thru Monday 11:00 am to 5:00 pm Luxury Flight & Roxo Port Flight 4385 La Panza Road, Creston, CA 93432 805 238-2321 52
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Morro Bay
Daily from Noon to 7:00 pm Standard Flight & Luxury Flight 845 Embarcadero Road, Morro Bay, CA 93442 805-225-1235
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