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Pear Valley:

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In This Issue

ROCK STAR WINEMAKER Patti Bello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 DIY Wine Gift-Baskets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 FEATURED TASTING ROOM Shale Oak Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Spicy foods meet great wines . . . . . . . . . . 29 NORTH COUNTY WINE TASTING MAP .30 CALENDAR OF EVENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Grape Encounters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

COVER STORY Pear Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

FEATURED LODGING Carriage Vineyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Wine Racks: More than storage . . . . . . . . . 26

Accessories for wine lovers . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

FEATURED DINING REVIEW Fish Gaucho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

SOUTH COUNTY WINE TASTING MAP . 47

GENERAL MANAGER Beth Bolyard bbolyard@atascaderonews.com EDITOR Luke Phillips lphillips@atascaderonews.com EDITORIAL Stan Angel Beth Giuffre

Madeline Vail David Wilson ADVERTISING Stan Angel Adriana Novack Sheri Potruch GRAPHIC DESIGN Jim Prostovich

COVER PHOTO Photo by Deborah Hofstetter: Pear Valley VINO MAGAZINE PasoRoblesPress.com 805-237-6060 935 Riverside Ave, 8A Paso Robles, CA 93446

VINO is published by the Paso Robles Press. All rights reserved, material may not be reprinted without written consent from the publisher. The Paso Robles Press made every effort to maintain the accuracy of information presented in the magazine, but assumes no responsibility for errors, changes or omissions.

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PATTI BELLO

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WINEMAKER

B&E VINEYARDS

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Patti Bello keeps it real By Madeline Vail FOR VINO MAGAZINE “Country western star winemaker” rather than a Rockstar Winemaker, seems more fitting when considering that Patti Bello of B&E Vineyards in Creston has been making wine the old-fashioned way for more than 22 years and in addition to making wine, B&E has been an authentic “working horse and cattle ranch” since 1969. According to B&E’s website, as “a tribute to California's cowboy heritage, B&E winery continues the traditions of horses, cattle and farming. Doc Elliott — the "E" in B&E — started a racing horse operation of running quarter horses in 1952 and throughout the years produced several world champions. In 1969, the family was joined by the "B" (Bello) and expanded into farming alfalfa and oat hay production, along with Registered Quarter Horses and Registered Cattle.” In fact, when we first called for an interview, Bello responded, “I need to call you right back, I’m in the middle of tryin’ to get two really mean bulls out of the bushes.” The first question that popped into my mind was, who answers the phone with a bull in front of them with no fence between, much less two? Patti Bello, that’s who. Not only does Patti make wine and run the ranch with her husband Jerry Bello, she can still be found kicking up dirt in topclass cutting horse competitions all over the Western United States. In typical “down to earth” fashion, with a splash of country wisdom, Bello’s career in winemaking began out of pure practicality. “I made wine in ‘94 and ‘95 for myself,” she said. “I like expensive wine and my husband said, ‘Why don’t you just make it?’ So we had a few barrels and we fermented them and we would bottle them ourselves and everything, and then we got a little bigger so someone gave us a bottling machine and it just grew from there.” Tutored by Tobin James and Don Brady of Robert Hall, Bello’s wines have garnered quite the underground following being that the tasting room is a bit off the beaten path and mostly only discovered via word of mouth or Yelp reviews. With a focus on straight Bordeaux blends, such as Merlot, Cabernet, Cab Franc, and Syrah — all estate grown — Bello is especially proud of her Bordeaux Rhone Blend which is Merlot, Continued on next page

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Cabernet and Syrah. “It’s fun to put them together to see how they taste,” Bello said. “That’s one thing about winemaking, if you have a good product to work with, it’s easy to make wine. I’m not one of those winemakers that has to fix something. Because I just like to have a good product, put a good yeast in it, ferment it and bottle it. So I don’t add anything. Its pretty natural.” Bello’s philosophy for winemaking rings of good, old-fashioned country wisdom — simple and easy, just let nature to do it’s thing. B&E Vineyards is located at 10000 Creston Road in Creston and is open weekly Friday and Sunday from 12-4 p.m., Saturday from 11 a.m.-5 p.m., and on Tuesdays by appointment.

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DIY Wine Gift Baskets

rom weddings to birthday parties, homemade wine baskets make the perfect gift to mark any special occasion.

They show the recipient that you care. They also allow you, the gift-giver, to exercise your creative muscles when putting them together. Use your eye for design when choosing your basket, box, materials and decorations that will all combine to form a one-of-its-kind gift for that special someone. Accessorize You want to make the winedrinking experience as easy as possible for your gift recipient. It is a gift, after all, and little to no effort should be required to enjoy it. So along with your one – or two – bottles of quality wine, be sure to include a corkscrew, wine stopper, coasters, napkins and a couple of glasses in the basket. Many more unique accessories are also available at your local winery or craft store, so look around for other options. Personalize DIY wine gift baskets offer the perfect opportunity for you

to include hand-written poems, notes or letters with messages of love and friendship. You can also include concert tickets or romantic homemade coupons for things like foot rubs or date nights for someone you love. Gift cards to local fine wine shops or massage parlors can also add an extra bit of luxury

to your basket. Don’t Forget the Food When adding food to your gift basket, you can go with the classic cheeses, fruit, salami and crackers that go so well with most types of wine. More unique options include bags of fresh whole nuts or chocolate-covered fruit. You

can also get creative and add all of the ingredients of your favorite recipe. Find a recipe – like spaghetti – that requires a little of the wine be added to the sauce. Include a handwritten recipe card with instructions to really put this gift basket over the top. © GREENSHOOT MEDIA

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Elevating form

U N C T I O N Shale Oak Winery By Madeline Vail FOR VINO MAGAZINE

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By Stan Angel OF VINO MAGAZINE I was fortunate enough to sample some of the fine wines at Shale Oak winery on the west side of Highway 46 recently. At first glance it is clear from the modern design of the tasting room, coupled with the lovely stained glass windows, the designers of this place have a passion for their product. I do love it when I stand in a tasting room sampling the winemakers' wears and the person behind the bar shows the same passion for the wine as the person who created it. Additionally, the young woman who assisted my tasting had an extensive knowledge of wine, especially their own. I began with a 2015 Rosé. I have to say at the outset, Rosé is not my favorite wine, however, this wine reminded me of the Portuguese Rosés I enjoyed in my youth. Soft, tasty flavors of strawberries that was completely refreshing, with a dry finish. A perfect spring/summer wine to pair with fruit or cheese. The 2015 Albarino was bright and tropical with a smooth finish which may be attributed to the winemaker finishing it in neutral French oak. I noticed light aromas of lemon, pineapple and pink grapefruit — a drinkable everyday wine that exhibited the qualities one strives for in a bright white wine. Refreshing. The 2014 Grenache Blanc has a light nose of lemon and lime. The fruit is very citrusy with a burst of flavor. In comparison, during my recent trip to France I tasted French Grenache Blancs, which were not as rich, flavorful or as fruit-forward as this California cousin. Again, a wine you can thoroughly enjoy sitting on your deck or patio with a platter of fresh fruit. The 2014 SUI is a white wine blend which has 60 percent Viognier and 40 percent Grenache Blanc. I have found that Central Coast winemakers are masters at blending. This wine fully exhibits what happens when a winemaker “goes for it” and the results are amazing. Lightly scented with honeysuckle and apple and a mellow flavor of green apple

March/April 2018

pon approaching Shale Oak winery, one is immediately taken aback by the soaring stained glass windows that, at any given time of day, reflect the oak trees and the rolling vineyards directly across the property. Then, proudly positioned on the front steps is an impressive carved sign boasting the winery’s “SIP Certification” (Sustainability in Practice), an obvious clue that lets guests know from the moment they step in, this is more than just another pretty winery. This place is on a mission that goes far deeper than superficial beauty and drinkable wine.

Even the soaring, 40-foot high, severely angled ceiling that reminds one of some post modern, protestant church has a purpose beyond instilling inspiration and encouraging the worshipping of wine. Tasting room manager Danielle Souther said, “The reason our ceiling is pitched the way it is, is because we harvest rainwater so everything that comes off the building we are able to collect. We can store about a half a million gallons and we use it to water all of the plants on the property which are all California native and drought tolerant. We use it in the tasting room and if we have enough we can actually water the back vineyard behind us.” This is just the tip of what this iceberg of an environmentally-conscious, powerhouse tasting room can do. Eighty-seven percent of the building is made from recycled materials and come from within a 500 mile radius, per GOLD LEED Certification standards, making everything locally sourced. “All the redwood that we use inside and out of the building is all reclaimed,” Souther said. “It comes from an old building at the Vandenberg Air Force Published by the PASO ROBLES PRESS

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Base.” And it doesn’t stop there. The countertops in the tasting room are recycled glass and the fireplace in the lounge area burns denatured alcohol, making it “clean burning,” meaning no emissions. Even the tasting menus are eco-friendly. “We encourage people to take notes on our tasting menus,” Souther said. “They are actually printed on wildflower seed paper so people can take notes on it and take it home and plant it.” Just to see and appreciate such an incredible example of “conscious design” is worthy of the visit but the property is just as aesthetically pleasing as any non-eco friendly property could be, if not even more so. With the raw concrete walls, offset by the reclaimed redwood accents and a stunning ergonomic water feature that seamlessly surrounds the patio, the sophistication and elegance in design alone sets this tasting room apart from the rest. Continued on next page

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with orange. Shale Oak ages this wine in concrete which gives it a light minerality. I could see this wine being paired with a sharp cheddar cheese and melon. While I was impressed with the quality and richness of the white wines offered, they were only a warmup in comparison to the red wines being produced at Shale Oak, starting with their 2012 Zinfandel. This wine is dry-farmed which concentrates the tart berry flavors. Combine that with older vines and you get a wonderful blend of spices with that rich berry flavor. Thoroughly enjoyable wine that would compliment a variety of dishes. For me, because of the deep berry flavors and spice, I would decant this Zin with my barbecued tri-tip or shrimp. The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon is a perfect combination of texture and tannin with a full flavor of berries. Just a hint of acidity gives it a wonderful finish. A light oak and smokiness adds to the fullness and creaminess of this wine. I did a side-by-side tasting with the 2011 Cabernet and the differences were evident. I found the 2011 to be more “Cab like,” darker, richer, not as fruit-forward. More dusky tannins to be sure. The 2010 Petite Syrah brings all the elements of a big, bold red wine together with a surprising, yet satisfying, finish. Blackberry and currant are on the front, with a light acidity and a powerful tannin. The finish is cocoa mixed with a smoky oak that leaves you with a multitude of delicious flavors. Again, I did a side-byside taste with the 2013 Petite Syrah. Simply put, it was even bigger, even bolder and with a higher acidity and earth notes which makes the wine the “total package.” The last two wines, both blends, are the flagship wines of Shale Oak and the pedestal they rest upon is well deserved. If you go to Shale Oak, these are the ones you must sample, if not buy, because they represent the best of the best. The 2012 KU is 64 percent Syrah, 24 percent Zinfandel and 12 percent Petite Syrah. The detail in this wine is understood when you learn that the winemaker handpicks the barrels in which it is aged. Dark, rich, bold a dark berry flavor blended perfectly with tannin — a very special bottle of wine. Equally special is the 2012 KA 25 percent each of Syrah, Zinfandel, Petite Syrah and Petit Verdot. While this wine exhibits many of the same qualities of the KU, the finish on this is lingering and the flavors stay on your tongue and in the mouth longer. March/April 2018

Designed by architect Heidi Gibson, of Studio2G in San Luis Obispo, “the goal was to find a harmonious balance between a design aesthetic, the client’s intentions, the workings of the built world, and an understanding of the natural environment,” according to Shale Oak’s website. “As they got to know the (owner) and to better understand his vision, an avantgarde architectural style was proposed, as well as LEED Certification with a goal of achieving “Silver” Certification. Special care was taken to design the buildings and the site with great sensitivity to the existing environment.” The rest of the project was made possible by Above Grade Engineering, In Balance Green Consulting and Jeffrey Gordon Smith Landscape Architecture. Guests are encouraged to bring a picnic and enjoy the patio with a glass or a bottle. Small family members, both human and animal, are welcome as well. In regards to the perfect acoustics that were noted as a live musician performed out on the patio — being that every design element on the property seemed to be implemented with such meticulous intention — “That was just a happy accident actually,” said Souther. 18

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Arlyne’s Flowers & Gifts 6485 Palma Ave • 805-466-1136 www.ArlynesFlowersandGifts.com

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COVER STORY

Pear Valley

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Hard workers with big hearts make deliciously straightforward estate wine By Beth Giuffre OF VINO MAGAZINE Photos by PJ Sawyer

ine lovers in Paso Robles know where to get Tom and Kathleen Maas’ Pear Valley Estate wines. The wines aren’t in the grocery store. They’re not distributed either. So Pear Valley wine fans need to order their cases online or drive down that gorgeous, meandering road and walk into the stone, European-style building that Tom Maas built at the Pear Valley estate to buy some cases themselves. When the latter occurs, of course, the tasting room sees plenty of familiar faces. Pear Valley Vineyard is an entirely solar-powered, sustainable 115-acre family-owned vineyard and winery located west on Highway 46 in Paso Robles. The tasting room is impressive — a simple structure with high ceilings and California earthquake-proof wooden beams, sky-high windows and doors made for Kareem Abdul-Jabbar, a design and build made entirely by Kathleen and Tom Maas, inspired by travels to France. Winemaker Jared Lee, who joined the Pear Valley team in 2009, produces about 8,000 cases annually with the help of invincible Cellar Master Nicole Fritz, but the winery has been around since 1999. Lee makes a whopping 26 varietals from three estateplanted vineyards. Basically, according to Kathleen Maas, they make whatever her husband likes to drink. She said, “that’s the one thing you can say about having 26 varietals: There’s something for everyone.” She explained, “Aglianico is on a really, really steep hill on the back, and Aglianico does not like its feet wet. So you water the Aglianico and it runs down the hill. It’s happy there. It’s on a west facing slope — very warm, very dry. And at the bottom is the Grenache. The Grenache loves water. So they have a very symbiotic relationship. Aglianico takes a sip and the rest of it goes on and the Grenache just gulps it up.” The Cabernet is Pear Valley’s most planted varietal, and takes 13 acres of the land, but Lee also makes Syrah, Aglianico, Barbera, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Zinfandel and both high-end, affordable

Kathleen and Tom Maas, owners of Pear Valley Estate Wines.

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Pear Valley's tasting room is open daily from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

red blends and reserves. Of the whites, Pear Valley makes Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier. Dessert wines are also made on the estate, including Frizzante, Orange Muscat and Port wine. Tom Maas’ love for wine began with a fond memory of a time in the 60s, after he served a tour in Vietnam, when his commander sent him to an army base in Dexheim, Germany, a tiny village outside the well-known wine town of Oppenheim. The place was situated in picturesque wine country — the perfect setting for a little respite. Kathleen Maas said her husband didn’t even mention wanting to own a winery until their last child (of three between them) had left high school and gone off to college. Both of them had run efficacious businesses: Tom Maas owned an asphalt paving company called Hardy & Harper in Santa Ana for decades, which he still owns and operates, and Kathleen Maas ran her own insurance company for contractors. But Tom Maas’ memories of living in Dexheim on a hill, surrounded by vineyards, a place where the locals were warm and generous, kind and welcoming, were still with him. “He said, you know, we need something to do now. How about a vineyard?” said Kathleen Maas of the time back in the late 90s when the idea of a winery sounded good to 22

March/April 2018

her. “In his little 20-year-old head he said, ‘This is the life. If I’m ever able, this is what I want to do.’” When the Maas’ decided to follow Tom’s dream of living the life he remembered from Germany, the couple was living comfortably in Laguna Niguel. Yet land-scarce Orange County was not the place to plant a vineyard. The deal-breaker part of his dream was that all the wine must be estate. So that meant they needed land. The Maas’ had been visiting their friend in Templeton and decided to make a more conscientious effort to find a place similar to Dexheim, where they could know their neighbors and be involved in the community. They visited Santa Barbara looking for property, then California’s northern wine regions of Napa Valley and Sonoma County. But the North County of San Luis Obispo won their hearts. The familiarity and the people were key to their next step, Kathleen Maas said, “It [the area] draws you in,” she said. “Very community. We were going to music in the park nights in Templeton and Atascadero.” Kathleen Maas, who loves herself a good beer as well as nice glass of wine, grew up, ironically, next door to the first bonded winery in Oregon. She said in Oregon “beer isn’t a beverage, it’s a religion.” But there she was, her family home, alongside a Gewürztraminer vineyard. “Whenever my horse got out it went to meet their horse,”

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Photo by Deborah Hofstetter

Above, Left, owner Tom Maas. Above, Right, owner Kathleen Maas.

she said. Kathleen Mass is a bright intellectual, an engaging storyteller, with a nice amount of wit. Not only does she lovingly care for the 60-70 thriving rose bushes along the slopes and tiers on the Pear Valley estate, she also manages the papers and numbers associated with the winery, and she enjoys running things with seamless efficiency. The paperwork, she said matter-of-factly, is “almost intuitive to me.” Her daughter Melissa also helps run the coordination efforts at the winery, helping with staffing and the wine club. The winery employs nine solid people, with contracted help as the season dictates. “We’re not trying to grab people’s attention, Kathleen Maas said. “So anything that’s not in the bottle, we try to control the cost on. We’re sort of like the all-steakno-sizzle winery.” When Tom Mass decided to move to Paso to build the new winery, she stayed back in Laguna Niguel for a whole year. She was still working also. As an insurance expert, her expertise is managing risk. She and her husband wanted to go into the wine business debt-free. So they did. It’s interesting to note the Maas’ came to Paso during the end of the longest period of growth in American history, and opened just at the collapse of the

dot-com bubble. “That same time in ‘09, when the recession happened, there were several local wineries that put a bunch of wine on trucks and shipped it to distributors and the distributors went out of business and they never got paid. We were brand new. I didn’t think we could sustain that like they did,” she said. “Our original intent was to be a distributor.” There they were, taking classes UC Davis and the Culinary Institute of America on ‘How to Design a Tasting room’ and so forth, when the recession hit a low. People were losing their homes and wineries were failing. She said, “I really just kind of took that work and threw it in the recycle and sat down and got out my pencil and sharpened it real hard. And said, ‘What’s valuable? What are we going to focus on?’ The wine. So you notice all our bottles have the same label.” Kathleen said they still run the winery like they did when they bought the vineyard and started planting back in 2004. “We don’t waste a lot of energy on the extraneous stuff,” she said. “The barrels are good. We’re sustainable. We have our things that matter to us and then you kind of have to know us.” Continued on next page

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By Beth Giuffre OF VINO MAGAZINE Best Aglianico & 93 points - Toast of the Coast Wine Competition 2017 Gold Medal - Orange County Fair Wine Competition 2017 “Deep garnet in color, our Aglianico opens with notes of menthol, red fruits, leather, and nutmeg. First sip reveals a serious wine, firing on all cylinders. Wonderful concentration and texture, as flavors of tar, ripe boysenberry, fig, and earth unfold. A wine with great energy and depth, and I continue to be impressed with this wine.” –from the Pear Valley website When Tom asked me which wine I wanted to taste, it was hard to choose. Pear Valley has 26 varietals! That’s not even a typo! Guess I’d try the Aglianico (alli-yawn-nico) since that grape (along with nebbiolo and sangiovese) is among the most revered in Italy, and Kathleen reminded me that it became Wine Spectator’s new BFF as the “Next Big Red” back in 2016. I used to live in and work in Italy, where the wines at the corner store are as good as the wines at the best restaurants and even the brilliant ones cost less than a bottled water. “Rosso o Bianco?” They ask at the bistro or ristorante. Red or white? Then the cameriere places a nonlabeled carafe of the local wine on the table. No frills. When I lived in Tuscany my stash of wine came from a grower on a nearby hillside, which we handtransferred into naked bottles from a demijohn. When the recession hit, just as they opened their doors, Kathleen and Tom decided to save money on labels, but keep the wine top-rate. If one looks at the variety of labels they have, they’re all the same! The low-key, non-stuffy presentation of the Pear Valley wines kind of reminds me of the Italian way, or even the Mexican way. My brother-in-law is a (pretty wellknown) Napa Valley winemaker who recently went wine-tasting in Mexico. I

March/April 2018

The first year Pear Valley opened they sold about 3,200 cases. Because they were brand new, they had to face the fact that starting a distribution operation during a recession could lead to failure. “So we said ‘we’re going to change our whole flow,’” Kathleen Maas said. “We have 115 acres, 89 of it planted in grapes, so we could grow enough grapes so everything is our own grapes. Not a drop comes from anywhere else. We can grow enough to do 25,000 cases, that’s our ceiling — that’s our size we can go, but that depends on years. Some years you get more, some years you get less. So we looked at that and said, ‘Well rather than worry about the 25,000 and try to get it in distribution, etcetera, etcetera, we’re gonna sell our excess grapes and make what we can literally sell here. So we shrunk it down organically, and now we just grow organically,” Kathleen Maas said. Now Pear Valley sells about 8,000 cases a year with a wine club in 31 states. Their clientele, she said, “are just people who come here and like the wine. We still work very, very hard at keeping our pricing reasonable and it seems to be working out; that type seems to be more practical for us. It certainly isn’t where everyone wants to go. Some people think bigger is better. For us — where we are is where we need to be. Everything else — we just sell the excess grapes. It works out for us,” she said. Tom Maas is the builder. He’s the guy everyone in town calls when they need help with projects. He not only consults the local Paso Robles Joint Unified School District or the new Boys and Girls Club, saving these groups thousands of dollars on construction projects for the children, but he’s out there on a bulldozer, doing the work himself. In the community, everyone knows Tom Maas will help. His eyes light up when he talks about working for the schools and saving them money. Kathleen Maas talks about her handy husband with great affection, “Tom is extremely mechanical,” she said. “I’ve seen him in his asphalt paving company and he’d walk across the yard, look at a mechanic and say, ‘Something’s wrong with that truck.’ He could hear it. And the mechanic couldn’t.” At the winery, Tom Maas, general contractor extraordinaire, commands and repairs all tractors and forklifts. He has adjusted his machine-whispering skills to irrigation challenges, which are computer-based these days. What makes him smile? Tom Maas laughed and said, “When my irrigation works!” “I’ve got a buddy who says the things that will drive you crazy are your wells and your irrigation,” he said. “There’s always a broken line. Some animal eats a hole in your drip line and you got it flooding out and it ran all night and the next morning you gotta go down there and fix that and then you gotta fix the muddy mess it made and all the erosion. I’m good on equipment so I’m good on that.” Tom Maas said owning the winery has “gone good.” He laughed again when he said, “It’s a lot of work

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financially and physically.” Tom talked about being in a place where he is content with what he’s learned in the vineyards, and glad he can fix the leaks and malfunctions of his wine-making equipment. At 70, one might think Tom Maas can take it easy and enjoy the fruits of his labor. But aside from taking the occasional rest on the couch by the tasting room fireplace and the occasional vacation off to Europe with his wife, he still works six days a week. Kathleen Maas, at 62, is still working just as hard. Tom Maas likes to keep busy, and his son Danny is working on taking over the family paving company so he can focus on the vineyards. “Basically, it’s fun to wake up and just be here in this community where it’s slower and nicer,” he said, adding he’s just happy being able to visit his grandkids in Los Angeles and to help out with the local organizations. While the Maas’ continue in their efforts to run an efficient winery with high-quality, all-steak, no-sizzle wines, the tasting room serves up a nice selection of six wines for sampling. People from all over the world have been visiting and Kathleen Maas said she never tires of the many people — locals and visitors alike — who come to experience Pear Valley. Every once in a while, she said, her husband will take a break from fixing everything to take a nap by the fireplace on the favorite sofa they brought from their Laguna Niguel living room. “A lot of people in the tasting room will say, ‘[whispers] That man’s asleep at the end of the couch,’ and we’re like, ‘It’s okay.’” Tom Maas smiles and laughs, “It’s okay cause he owns the place.” Pear Valley Estate Wine is located at 4900 Union Road in Paso Robles. Tasting room hours are 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., seven days per week. Tastings are $10 per person, refundable with purchase of one or more bottles. Groups eight or larger must make reservations in advance. Pets and smoking prohibited on the property. BYO picnics welcome. For more information, you may visit www.pearvalley.com, contact Pear Valley at 805237-2861 or email at info@pearvalley.com. From Hwy 101: Take the Hwy 46 East exit toward Bakersfield/Fresno. Turn right on Union road & make a sharp left. Pear Valley is located on the left hand side approx. three miles down Union. From Hwy 46 coming from the Central Valley: While heading West on Hwy 46 turn left on Branch Road. Take Branch Road until it ends at Union. Turn right on Union and Pear Valley is located on the right hand side approx. 1 mile down Union. *Be careful of the Union S-curve. Take it slow. Poor Milt, Pear Valley’s neighbor, has had to rebuild his fence too many times.

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had to chuckle when my sister told me when they went wine tasting, no one was making a big deal about him being a winemaker there. Here in California we bring out the red carpet! But she said in Mexico, making wine is as flashy as avocado farming. At Pear Valley, Kathleen and Tom run the same kind of operation. They’ve travelled the world, but they still get excited to meet people from all over the United States and beyond. If the dishes need doing, Kathleen is back there washing. Did they decide to hire one of Silicon Valley’s best graphic designers after the winery became successful to re-do their labels into fantastic art forms? Nah. The labels look fine. Why change them? The wine on the other hand, is where they put all their effort. Later I learned more about the regional varietals of Italy, partly from working a server job at A16 in San Francisco, a restaurant that trained me to pair Italian varietals with the regional food it came from, so I needed to learn the nuances between growing regions along the A16 highway (which runs from Rome on down to Sicily). The Cliff Notes version I followed was that the further down Italy’s boot one travels, the more fullbodied and acidic the wines get. The taste of Cabs, Zins and Syrahs are down low. At A16, I referenced the book “Vino Italiano, The Regional Wines of Italy” by Joseph Bastianich, which I would highly recommend to anyone who cares to understand how Italy’s 300 growing zones make 300 different tasting wines. Paso Robles has such a similar climate as many of the Italian regions. Since Italy was growing first, and many of the grapes came from Europe, it reads like a history book or a family tree. The Aglianico, coming from the soils of the Southern Campania region, has that full-bodied, earthy, rustic chocolate expresion, much like a California Petite Syrah. I drank my Pear Valley Aglianico with some cheesy homemade steak tacos and beet salad with mixed greens since the structure of Aglianico benefits from rich, high-intensity food pairings. I hear people like to age Aglianico about 10 to 20 years, but we don’t have that rule in my house. The Pear Valley 2014 Aglianico was absolutely ready to drink after only four years of aging. I soaked up the dried raspberry aroma and super-silky mouthfeel. The intense cafe mocha finish was delightful. At $27 a bottle, it’s an incredible value. I need to stock up.

March/April 2018

Wine Racks: More Than Storage

ure, wine racks do a great job of displaying your favorite bottles, but they can also serve as a design element within nearly any room of your home.

From eclectic and funky to timeless and vintage, they come in all shapes, sizes and designs to fit the needs of wine connoisseurs. They can hold one bottle, or several thousand. Some are uniquely sculpted and inspired by abstract architecture, while others feature more contemporary and modern touches. Storage Strategy There is a definite strategy in how most wine racks hold your bottles. They are generally designed for a bottle to be stored on its side with a slight downward slant. This keeps the wine in contact with the cork, which keeps the cork from drying out and disallows oxygen to pass through and spoil the wine. For this reason, you should avoid racks that are made to hold your wine in an upright position. Materials Wine racks come in nearly every material imaginable.

Some are crafted from reclaimed wood, while others are comprised of steel. When choosing a rack for your home, ensure its strength under pressure, especially if you need it to hold a large number of bottles. Ask your retailer more about the company that produces its wine racks and, if it’s a major investment for you, do some follow-up with that business about how it weight-tests its

racks. This will give you total confidence in your new wine rack’s ability to perform under pressure. Function and Fashion On the floor or on the counter? Screwed into the wall or hanging from the ceiling? There are countless ways to display your new wine rack, limited only by the manufacturer’s specifications

and your creativity. Wine racks are about more than storage. Capable of being your living room centerpiece or your kitchen accessory, they are the perfect complement to many design schemes. Their wide range of available colors and textures will help you find the perfect rack to accentuate your furniture, countertops or paint palette. © GREENSHOOT MEDIA

ARTISAN, COASTAL, SINCE 1994

Visit our Tasting Room & Winery Open Thurs-Sun, 11-5 178 Suburban Rd San Luis Obispo, CA 805.594.1318

www.stephenrosswine.com

March/April 2018

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FEATURED DINING REVIEW

Fish Gaucho

Bold mexican flavors paired with fine agave spirits Story and Photos By Madeline Vail FOR VINO MAGAZINE I have been to Fish Gaucho on several occasions since they first opened in June of 2014 and have never been disappointed. On this particular evening I decided that I was going to have all of my favorites in one meal even if it meant forcing my companions to order particular menu items so that I didn’t look like a complete glutton. We would all share, I insisted, and I knew what I was doing. So they trusted me. No reservations are taken here and there’s always a crowd, which is just a great excuse to head to the bar. It’s no wonder that Fish Gaucho has experienced such unbridled success since they first opened almost four years ago. Cordon Bleu educated Executive Chef Chris Beckett and owners Troy Larkin and Donovan Schmidt have all been together since the days of Schooner’s Wharf in Cayucos decades ago — this isn’t their first rodeo and it looks like this is going to be a very long ride. There was a 30-minute wait, so off to the bar we went.

The cocktail program consists of a collection of the best margaritas in town and various other handcrafted cocktails, all made with quality spirits and fresh locally sourced ingredients. Or, if one is the mood for some straight up tequila, this is the place for it. Tequila flight anyone? According to Matthew Hanson, general manager and bar director, “We have a very, very large selection of tequilas and mescals. We focus on agave spirits but we don’t just do agave spirits. So we have an amazing collection of margaritas available but we also do a lot of other handcrafted cocktails using various other spirits and we try as much as possible in our program to use fresh locally sourced produce and other goods. Like right now we’re bringing in a local honey that we are using for a couple of cocktails and we’re getting some awesome local pomegranates and sage right now — so we’re doing a pomegranate sage margarita that’s just lovely.” Continued on next page

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And lovely it was, along with an apropo starter of their Salsa Trio and Chips ($7.50), which consisted of salsa rojo, avocado tomatillo, and pina jicama pico de gallo served with housemade corn tortilla chips. Once we arrived at our table I insisted upon the Gaucho Nachos ($15) and the Ahi Nachos ($19) both of which are large enough for a meal in and of themselves, and the latter of which a Yelper described as being worthy of their “last meal.” What really makes these nachos stand out for me, besides the fact that they are overloaded with everything you love on nachos and then some, is that they are served with housemade flour chips rather than the typical corn. The flour chips are crispy, flakey and melt in your mouth — smothered in guacamole, sour cream, creamed black beans and cheese — it’s enough to make your head spin. To give our palate a rest from the decadence of the nachos, the Chef’s Ceviche ($13.50), made from seasonal fresh fish selections, was in order. I have tried on several occasions to replicate this recipe at home and find myself still needing to try it again… and again… and again. Being that Fish Gaucho boasts “modern mexican cuisine focused with an emphasis on fresh seafood,” according to Hanson, I insisted on more seafood. And what could be more appropriate than fresh fish tacos? On this particular evening they were salmon, served with a pina pepper salsa and a cilantro crema. While the portion is small, these tasty little 28

March/April 2018

morsels are still fresh and satisfying. Finally, the grand finale, the main course. Despite the fact that there are over fifteen choices on the menu I honed in on my two all-time favorites. Don’t get me wrong, I’m open to trying new things, I want to try new things, but these two items call out to me from my little menu before me and they just won’t be denied: the Seared Diver Sea Scallops ($31) and the Braised Short Rib Chile Verde ($26). The scallops are always seared to a medium rare perfection and are never overpowered by some fanciful sauce. They are clean, simple and natural served with heirloom cauliflower succotash, roasted carrot puree and a drizzle of artisan olive oil and micro greens. And then there is the braised, short, rib, chile, verde. Dramatic pause. “It’s been a staple since the day we opened,” said Hanson. “It’s a very simple classic dish but really well executed and these amazing flavors that just go really well together. We do a very slow, 8-hour braising until its just falling apart tender.” Served with jalapeno mashed potatoes, their house made chili verde sauce, grilled asparagus, tortillas and a fried egg on top, I wouldn’t doubt if it was on someone’s “last meal” list as well. Thankfully, this wasn’t my last meal and I will be sure to return… again and again.

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How more heat is fueling greater interest in pairing wine with the spicy foods we eat! It wasn’t all that long ago that a movement began to “turn up the heat” in the culinary world. Around the globe, contests were popping up to see who could come up with the hottest pepper of them all—a pepper capable of taking our passion for heat from fiery to inferno—and searing the taste buds off our tongues! WHAT USED TO BE HOT, IS SUDDENLY NOT For many decades, peppers like Jalapenos and Serranos were pretty much the benchmark for hot, but as Thai food mushroomed in popularity, those little red and green Thai peppers (know as phrik khi nu in Thailand) have made the Jalapeno seem more like a bell pepper in contrast. They are, in fact, approximately 23 times hotter than a Jalapeno, which is probably why Habanero peppers are becoming more and more popular in Mexican cooking. Habaneros are three times hotter than the Thai challenger. Today, topping the “Hotter than Hades” list is the Carolina Reaper which, in Scoville units (used to put a numerical value on heat) can be as high as 2,200,000. By

contrast, the Habanero tops out at 350,000, or more than six times milder. SO, WHERE DOES WINE COME INTO PLAY? Glad you asked. A few years back, I was judging at the Los Angeles International Wine Competition, based at the LA County Fairgrounds. The fairground has a magnificent garden on the premises that grows some very exotic edibles. I remember one of the fair’s top executives proudly telling me that they had just scored some Ghost Pepper seeds; claiming (at the time) it was the new Scoville champion at 1,041,427. Like a proud new papa, he couldn’t wait to see those seeds grow into a mature plant that would most certainly have the respect of all the other plants in the garden. Knowing he was also a wine guy, I inquired, “So what are you gonna’ pair with that, if you don’t mind me asking?” The conversation went no further than, “I’ll have to think about that one.” Pairing spice and wine is one area of wine enthusiasm Continued on page 44

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Downtown Paso Robles Arroyo Robles Pianetta

Bodegas Paso Robles 13th St

Parrish Family

Asuncion Ridge

LXV

Rabbit Hole Grizzly Republic Chateau Lettau

Herman Story

Frolicking Frog

12th St

CALIFORNIA

Paso Underground

101

Pine St.

Park St.

Spring St.

Oak St.

Riverside Ave.

Vista Del Ray Rd Drake

14th St

10th St

Caparone

Anglim D’Anbino

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9th St

Starr Ranch

Derby Wine Estates

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Carmody McKnight Tablas Creek

Adelaid a R

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Rangeland

Hearst Ranch Winery

Poalillo

Thacher

HammerSky Oso Libre

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L’ Aventure Willow C ree

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Pipestone

Stolo Family

Brecon Brochelle

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(Po-lil-o) Villa Creek

Twin Coyotes

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Lone Madrone Kiamie rs la el C Tolo Halter Ranch Adelaida d

6th St

Moonstone Cellars

Chroni Na

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7th St

Black Hand Cellars

8th St

Jack Creek

Epoch Rocky Creek

Highway 46 West

Harmony Cellars

Sextant Niner Grey Wolf Midnight Cellars & Dark Star Summer Silver Horse Tooth & Nail Wood Zenadia Paso Port 4 Lanterns Aron Hill Castoro Peachy Donati Family Canyon J Dusi Zin Alley Hunt Croad Cellars Cypher

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Broken Earth & Vantage

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Still Waters

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V ineyard Dr

Bella Luna T em plet o n R d T

Wild Horse

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El Pomar Dr Hansen Hidden Burbank Oak Ranch

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Shadow Run

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San Antonio

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Record Family

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Mustard Creek

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Four Sisters Ranch

San Marcos Creek

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March/April 2018

CALENDAR OF EVENTS FRIDAY, MARCH 16

Vintage Paso: Zinfest Weekend Once a year Paso Robles toasts our heritage variety with Vintage Paso Weekend to celebrate the wines that put Paso Robles on the map, Zinfandel and other wild wines were the first varieties planted in Paso Robles back in the 1880's. The three-day celebration features events at more than 100 wineries, a Zin seminar, and the Z After Party, pairing Zin with dessert and live jazz. Visit pasowwine.com for more details.

SATURDAY, MARCH 17 Atascadero Irish Festival

Come celebrate all things good and Irish. Irish Festival falls on Saint Patrick's Day this year so all the better. There will be a beer tasting with some of your Irish and not so Irish favorites. Live music is to be decided but it looks like the Central Coast Pipes and Drums will bless the festival with a performance. General admission tickets include logo glass, unlimited beer tastings and access to all the great fun, games, a Leprechaun/Irish Outfit costume contest and music. Delicious homemade Irish Food available for purchase. Buy at the event or save a couple bucks and buy online at brown paper tickets. Choice of Corn Beef platter with cabbage, potato, carrots, corn, peas, vinegar, and mustard or Sheppard's Pie, each for $8. The three-mile Leprechaun Run will be held before the Irish Fest. Prizes will be awarded to winners and best Leprechaun or Irish Costume. For race information, visit www.runnercard. com/roadrace/public/raceGroup/976207. Leprechaun Run open to all ages but must be 21 to enter Irish Fest.

SUNDAY, MARCH 18

Wine Country Runs Half Marathon and 5K Wine Country Runs is a Half Marathon, 5K and a Grape Stomp running through the beautiful wine country of Paso Robles, California. Winners of the Half Marathon win their weight in wine. Included in the race is an amazing breakfast, lots of SWAG and a fun postrace party complete with DJ. This race was voted one of the most fun races by active.com. Tickets also available at active.com. Starts at 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. at CaliPaso Winery which is located at 4230 Buena Vista Dr in Paso Robles.

SATURDAY, MARCH 24 Central Coast Craft Beer Fest

Join us for the first Central Coast Craft Beer Fest, presented by the Central Coast Brewers Guild. This festival is the official kickoff to Central Coast Beer Week, March 23 – April 1. Enjoy 40+ breweries, 6 wineries, 4 cider houses, and live music at the Sunken Gardens in Atascadero. Admission includes a commemorative cup and unlimited 2 oz pours. VIP Session 12 – 1 p.m., includes early entry and beer and

March/April 2018

food pairings. General admission is from 1 –4 p.m. The Central Coast Craft Beer Fest benefits local charities and the Central Coast Brewers Guild. The guild’s mission is to increase awareness by educating consumers about the California Central Coast’s influence on local craft beer. California’s Central Coast covers over 300 miles of coastline from Ventura, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, and Monterey counties and is home to an amazing variety of craft brewers. More info at http:// bit.ly/2yTWRe0.

money for the EOD Warrior Foundation. Every beer you purchase, Barrel House Brewing Company will donate a dollar to the Warrior foundation from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. BarrelHouse Brewing Company is located 3055 Limestone Way in Paso Robles.

THURSDAY, MARCH 29

Have you ever wondered what goes into the perfect blend? Join us as our new consulting winemaker, Jeff Strekas, takes you behind the scenes of what goes on in the winery to assemble Record Family Wines unique and delicious blends. Blending experience will be followed by a vineyard tour and tasting, catered dinner, and live entertainment all from 3 to 8 p.m. Tickets are $100 a person or $75 for wine club members. There is a very limited number of tickets available for this intimate event. For tickets and more information visit recordfamilywines.com. Record Family Wines is located at 2105 Ranchita Canyon Road in Paso Robles.

It’s time to craft together again! Join Zesty ladies and Talley Vineyard as they take time to sip and create. Working with grapevine wreaths and lots of fabulous succulents, each attendee will take home a one-of-akind creation to welcome spring! To make our time even more enjoyable, bites will be provided to keep participants sated as they sip a selection of Talley Vineyard wines during the session. Come alone or as a group for an evening of fun. Talley Vineyard Tasting Room is located at 3031 Lopez Dr. in Arroyo Grande. Tickets available at eventbrite.com/e/diy-succulent-wreath-workshoptickets-42919237595. The class is from 5 to 7 p.m. mad tickets are $65.

SATURDAY, MARCH 31 LXV Spring Pick-up Party Masquerade

It's that time of year, LXV Wine Spring Pick-up Party and you do not want to miss this masquerade. Four food and wine stations that are carefully paired using our one of a kind spice creations, DJ, dancing, masquerade contest and art station all happening from 4 to 7 p.m. Our parking lot will transform into a glamorous masquerade. Tickets available for nonwine club members and industry. LXV Wine is located at 1306 - B Pine Street in Paso Robles. Tickets available at https://www.eventbrite.com/e/lxv-pick-up-partymasquerade-tickets-42160425969.

SATURDAY, APRIL 7 SUNDAY, APRIL 8 10th Annual Wine For Paws

Want to make a difference for homeless pets? Take part in a weekend of wine tasting and take this opportunity to stock up on some of the area's fine wines. Over 80 participating wineries, some olive oil companies, and a brewery as well, will be donating either their tasting fees or a percentage of their weekend's sales. Best of all you'll be helping Woods Humane Society and Woods Humane Society-North County continue our life-saving work for animals. For more information email info@ wine4paws.com or visit www.woodshumanesociety.org.

FRIDAY, APRIL 13

Warriors Helping Warriors at Barrel House Brewing Company Come on out and support our veterans! We'll be raising

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SATURDAY, APRIL 14

2018 Blending Experience with Record Family Wines

SUNDAY, APRIL 22

Brews and Blooms at 7 Sisters Brewing Company Celebrate Earth Day by learning the art of flower arranging and enjoying the best brew in SLO! Tickets now on sale! Participants will receive $1 off pints and flights, $1 off wines by the glass, $5 off wines by the bottle. Ticket available at alicestable.com at $65 a ticket. The event is from 4 to 6 p.m. 7 Sisters Brewing is located at 181 Tank Farm Rd Suite 110 in San Luis Obispo.

THURSDAY, APRIL 26 SATURDAY, APRIL 28 Hospice Du Rhone Paso Robles

One would require a passport, numerous flights and a few weeks of travel to even begin to experience the Rhône journey found at the Paso Robles Hospice du Rhône weekend! Come, tip your glass to the worldly Rhône wine producers at the largest international gathering of Rhône wines on the planet in the heart of Paso Robles wine country. he only way to attend the 2018 Paso Robles Rhônely gathering is with the purchase of an individual ticket to the tastings or meals available at www.hospicedurhone.org. Event Check-in beginning at 8:30 a.m. on Friday, April 27 at the Paso Robles Event Center.

SATURDAY, APRIL 28 4th Annual Brew at the Zoo

4th Annual Brew at the Zoo at the Charles Paddock Zoo from 5:30 to 9 p.m. Tickets include a commemorative beer glass, craft beer, wine and cider tasting. Live music by Bear Market Riot, and contests for dancing, hula hoop and Karaoke with DJ Manuel Medina with Medina Central Coast Edition VINO

CALENDAR OF EVENTS Light Show Designs. Pre-sale tickets are $30 and $35 at the door. Must be 21 years and over. Tickets go on sale April 1 at the Zoo and at www.AtasacdedroChamber.org. For more information, call (805) 461-5080.

Wild about Wine Stroll Join over 15 Downtown Paso Robles for a Wine Stroll like no other as we raise money for Conservation Ambassadors Zoo To You! Each participating winery will be hosting a special animal for you to meet while you enjoy a featured wine! Previous animals have included owls, foxes, alligators, hawks, armadillos and many more. Your ticket includes a keepsake logo wine glass along with a unique wine and animal experience as you stroll around the diverse wine tasting rooms in historic Downtown Paso Robles. Choose the winery you'd like to check in with and purchase your tickets. On the day of the event, begin at your check-in winery to get your map, wristband, and keepsake logo wine glass and then stroll around to any participating Downtown Winery to see what special wine and animal are available at each. The event is from 1 to 4 p.m. Must be 21 or older, tickets are non-refundable and not transferable. Tickets are limited and sell out fast. Tickets available at https://m.bpt.me/event/3346045. For more information visit downtownpasowine.com.

SUNDAY, APRIL 29

2nd Annual Bollywood Night An evening of traditional dance, music, and cuisine set in the stunning rolling hills of Terra Mia Vineyards in Paso Robles California. Enjoy taro card readings, henna body art, and a live and silent auction benefiting the students of Piyali Learning Center located just outside of Kolkata India. The event is from 4 to 9 p.m. at Terra Mia located on Arbor Road in Paso Robles. Please help Pace Universal succeed in the goal to end trafficking and abject poverty through education, particularly of girls and women.

FRIDAY, MAY 4 TO SATURDAY, MAY 6

and waves. These events take place at numerous scenic venues throughout San Luis Obispo County. Starts on Friday, May 4, 4 p.m. to Sunday, May 6, at 5:30 p.m. More information at www.winewavesandbeyond.com.

SATURDAY, MAY 5

2018 Templeton Wine Fiesta Formally the Templeton Wine Festival is now the Templeton Wine Fiesta. Enjoy unlimited tastings at over 35 of the Central Coast's best small wineries, breweries, and cider houses. Live music by Ricky Montijo and some fun surprises to celebrate Cinco De Mayo in style. Tickets are $35 pre-sale, $45 at the door if it's not sold out. Non-drinking attendees of any age, are $20. Enjoy the best Spring wine festival in North County! From 1 to 5 p.m. at Templeton Park in Templeton. For more information visit templetonwinefestival.com.

Wine, Waves & Beyond: 9th Annual Central Coast Surf Classic Wine, Waves & Beyond (WW&B) is classic surf and wine event that celebrates the best of San Luis Obispo County. Combining the fun, laid-back atmosphere of our wine country and unique surf culture, enjoy three days of unforgettable events evoking the magic of wine

Classic Wine Country Retreat, Delicious Breakfasts, Beautiful Event Spaces

(805) 227-6807 toll-free: (800) 617-7911 stay@carriagevineyards.com www.carriagevineyards.com VINO Central Coast Edition

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GRAPE ENCOUNTERS Great wine isn’t out of your league, you just have to play the game differently! By David Wilson FOR VINO MAGAZINE

IF YOU CAN’T BE WITH THE WINE YOU LOVE, LOVE THE WINE YOU’RE WITH! I’m a big fan of metaphors. I guess it’s because they elicit an emotional reaction that enables you to better express how something feels that you have difficulty putting into words. Well, every time I go out to a nice restaurant, I am reminded of the LaserJet printers in my office. You know, the printers that cost as little as $80, until you have to buy your first set of $129 ink cartridges! Let’s think of that printer as your meal, the product of ingenuity, creativity and an understanding of what people really want. Unfortunately, the ink is kind of like wine; an essential companion to the meal, but usually the single most expensive item on your ticket. And just like

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wine, the ink always seems to run out far too soon. As a longtime wine world traveler, I can say with confidence that my metaphor works far better in America than other parts of the world where wine is viewed much more as a staple than a luxury item. There are exceptions. Certainly, in places like France where collectors have created a market for luxury wines that are nearly unobtainable by mortals, you will see spectacular vintages on wine lists that will send you into cardiac arrest, metaphorically speaking. But you will also discover that the house wines and many other offerings on the list are sensibly priced and surprisingly sumptuous. THE WINE PLEASURE PRINCIPLE In America, far too many budget wines cannot be

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considered a good value. After all, if a wine brings you little or no pleasure, it isn’t worth a penny. But if we see those under ten dollar wines the way we see a can of cola, they become a lot less hard to swallow… and that’s a perfectly fine way of looking at things. While most countries produce some form of bulk wine, in America, the lion’s share of affordable wine is produced millions of gallons at a time. Yes, it’s drinkable and even satisfying most times, as long as we keep it in context. That is to say, it’s far better suited for tailgate parties and backyard barbecues than fine dining at a restaurant or dinner party. We Americans excel at producing things in great volume; whether it’s buying pancake syrup in 55 gallon drums at a big box store or serving zillions of burgers under the golden arches. Wine is a massive business in America, and the corporatizing of our favorite adult beverage has created a significant divide between inexpensive and often boring bulk wines versus handcrafted wines that are sometimes prohibitively priced. Certainly, we could bust wine up into many more categories and there is plenty of middle ground that I am glossing over to keep things simple, however, true wine lovers recognize the difference between wine that is simply a beverage and wine that is artfully crafted and seriously seductive. The dilemma is that, in America, we are accustomed to paying a premium for quality, and numerous studies support the notion that we react more positively to wines that carry a potent price tag. For that reason, it doesn’t hurt to do a little reality check from time to time. As the host of America’s #1 wine radio broadcast, I think it’s important to identify values that are based upon true quality as opposed to hype or price-induced perception. After all, if the price of your wine consistently overshadows the price of your meal--and that disparity doesn’t work well with your entertainment budget--it’s time to get a new game plan. The good news is, you have options. AWESOME WINES HIDE IN THE DARNDEST PLACES! As the Stones’ hit aptly points out, “You can’t always get what you want, but if you try sometime, you just might find, you get what you need.” That statement was never truer than in the world of wine where the wines you really love are easy to sip but hard to swallow from a budget perspective. But that’s not the end of the world. It’s the beginning of an adventure. To that end, let’s look at a multifaceted strategy that is absolutely foolproof: IS CAB REALLY KING? Cabernet may be king, but there is no shortage of royalty in the family. Hence, if a $100 Napa Cab is on your “If only I could” list, all you need to do is check out some of the other family members. Cabernet Sauvignon is by far the most popular red

wine in the world… a position of prominence that is well deserved. Made right, it is rich in flavor, elegant but complex, strong in character, but gentle as a domesticated leopard. Cabernet is the most popular member of the Bordeaux family of wines from the French wine region of the same name. However, it is a family that has not been without scandal. The family’s history of scandal began when Cabernet Sauvignon was conceived. He was the love child born out of an illicit affair between cousins Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. BORDEAUX WINES COMPETE FOR PROMINENCE At a very young age, Cabernet Sauvignon began to overshadow his famous father and ascend to prominence. Cousin Malbec, the free-spirited member of the family, not content to live in Cabernet Sauvignon’s shadow, defected to South America where he rose to superstardom. And Merlot, once a fierce rival to Cabernet Sauvignon, brought shame to the family when he was ridiculed in an American movie and lost his enormous fan base to arch rival Pinot Noir. With celebrity comes money and today, quality Cabernets command top dollar… and that’s great news for wine lovers because, even though other family members like Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot possess their own distinctive qualities that rival Cabernet, they usually sell for less. So, when the price of quality Cab forces you to say “no,” another Bordeaux may be the way to go! HAPPINESS HERE AT HOME There was a time not so long ago when my enthusiasm for Central Coast Bordeaux wines was sometimes lukewarm, but I have been very impressed in recent years. For quite a while, I wondered whether our strong suits would be limited to Rhones, Burgundies and Zins. In just the past couple of years, however, numerous Central Coast producers have demonstrated that it’s a go when it comes to Bordeaux… and the good news is, these very solid wines can be had for a fraction of the price of Bordeaux varietals produced in Napa or other regions of the world. Austin Hope’s Cab, for example, has been all over the news lately. And members of the Cab Collective are also challenging the best of Napa in growing numbers. As for other Bordeaux varietals, Adam Lazarre’s 2011 Merlot was shockingly good—world class really—and held its own when compared to Napa’s finest. The same is true of the Emmolo Merlot, produced Continued on page 42

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FEATURED LODGING A drive through the vines at Carriage Vineyards Bed & Breakfast

Gourmet breakfasts, antique-filled rooms and a historical experience make for a memorable stay

By Beth Giuffre Photos by Luke Phillips OF VINO MAGAZINE

or those who prefer the friendly, cultural experience of a bed and breakfast stay, choosing the right host is just as important as finding the plushest, most luxurious room. The best B&Bs are run by people with character and charm. They provide a beautiful, comfortable place to stay, but they also help guests plan their visit, meet the other visitors and prepare that perfect cup of coffee and warm homemade breakfast when the sun comes up. At Carriage Vineyards Bed & Breakfast in Templeton, a 100-acre ranch in the heart of the Central Coast wine country, the amenities are outof-the-ordinary. A 2,400 square-foot building on a property shared with Longhorn cattle and draft horses houses a collection of century-old carriages, providing a private museum for guests and an option to take a carriage drive through the working vineyards, alongside grand oaks and running creeks. But what makes Carriage Vineyards B&B special are those who run it with a personal touch. Larry Smyth is a delightful wine grower, history buff and joke teller and his new manager, Asima Syed, is a former Air Force pilot who cooks gourmet breakfasts so unusual and delicious, she could easily win any Top Chef competition. People who stay at Carriage come back. One couple from Arkansas stays twice a year. So many come back that Smyth started a little club called the ‘Brix Society.’ When a couple returns more than once, they earn a wooden plaque nailed to the entrance of one of Smyth’s of vineyard rows. Smyth

Syed's inside out enchillada with fresh fruit and salsas served with lemon bread.

endearingly calls his repeated visitors “an exclusive group.” Smyth’s healthy, well-kept vineyards stretch up and down the hills of South El Pomar in Templeton, to be harvested for local wineries. Smyth has been growing grapes for 18 years. As sort of a ‘walking wine encyclopedia,’ he offers a ‘Grapes 101’ tour for his guests. His biggest fruit buyer is DAOU Vineyards and Winery in Paso Robles where his Cabernet goes into their reserve wine, but since his property has the most sought after soil for wine grapes, he sells his grapes to a couple handfuls of other local leading wineries as well. Smyth said he has named every one of his 23,000 plants. “Really?” we asked. “Yeah," he assured us, "One, two…” – Smyth was kidding with us. He tends to slip those jokes in almost every conversation. Smyth employs a full-time vineyard helper and handyman to help work the extensive property, but Smyth is a self-taught carpenter. He built the separate B&B studio on the top of the hill and the enormous barn that houses his carriage collection. Smyth was born in Wisconsin, and grew up in Canton, Ohio. Believe it or not, one of his first jobs was selling electric cash registers in Amish country.

After majoring in accounting in college, he and his brothers ran a good-sized computer business. His brothers stayed to work at the headquarters in Ohio, but Smyth moved to California. After the family business merged into another company, Smyth decided to flip houses for a while in Southern California, and then get back to the rural lifestyle. He missed driving a tractor he remembered from his childhood. He and his late wife, Diane, bought the Carriage Vineyards property in ‘99, and she talked Smyth into opening a B&B. He refurbished the garage building on site into the current main building and planted the vineyards. At the time, he remembers there being only about 40 wineries in the area. Now the number is close to 300. Asima Syed is not your typical B&B manager. Sure, she’s been cooking ever since her first 11-year-old Girl Scout badge, but she is a strong, confident woman in a business sense also, overwhelmingly capable of taking charge and getting things done. It might be from her early career in the U.S. Air Force, when she was one of the first six women in American history to go straight from college to pilot training, serving seven years in the military, or it might have been the next 25 years she spent as a leader in consumer marketing for huge (even Fortune 500) companies. But Syed said she was ready to leave the Continued next page

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The Carriage Vineyards B&B dining area.

Syed's puff pancake with fresh berry compote, served with local linguica sausage.

March/April 2018

marketing world behind. She and her husband moved to Paso Robles to do what she wanted to do deep in her heart: to be a part of the wine industry. “This is the first place I’ve ever moved just because I wanted to live here,” Syed said. “Choose life, choose happiness” has been her motto since, and she works part-time at Zenaida Cellars in Paso Robles when not at Carriage B&B, the winery where she knew of Smyth and the grapes he sells to Zenaida. Syed is passionate about wine, and will often open a bottle from her personal stash to share with guests in the evening hours. Carriage House B&B offers four rooms, including a fully detached studio. A complimentary hot breakfast is served daily at 8:30 a.m. A typical breakfast starts with a fruit smoothie appetizer followed with a main dish. There might be Syed’s signature dish: A honey puff pancake served with fresh berries and a little bit of berry sauce paired with locally-crafted linguica sausage, a ham and cheese strata, or perhaps a breakfast enchilada. Syed cooks the enchilada with egg on the outside. The vegetarian version is made with cheese, peppers, sauce and vegetables in the center served with both avocado tomatillo salsa and red tomato salsa, but Syed will be switching up the menu as the garden on the property provides. When the Bartlett pear tree bears fruit, she makes preserves for the breads and adds pear to the apple ‘to-die-for’ Cinnamon Monkey Bread, a delicious sweet treat guests pull off and eat with their fingers. She also serves lemon bread in a little white ceramic dish, and excellent coffee, just the way the guests prefer it. “Many times I come back and people are talking at 11:00,” said Smyth, who mentioned the company is just as inviting as the food. The tables set up just off the kitchen are most often shared by multiple guests from all around the globe. Smyth himself is one to talk to. He said, “I was born shy and short so I figured I better start talking.” He’s soft-spoken, slow-paced and humble. But beware. He’ll surprise his guests in conversation when they realize he’s not talking fact but setting up a joke. He even makes comedy out of B&Bs. Just don’t be alarmed that he despises the animals like squirrels and skunks that threaten his growing operation. When Vino asked about the animals on the property he said, “We have around 3,000 gophers and I hate every one of them.” Syed, who raves about the natural flora and fauna (close to 300 rose bushes), and the gorgeous dry creek that attracts the most beautiful wildlife, lowered her voice, “I don’t want to get Larry started, but he’s also not fond of deer.” He very openly, very Caddyshack-like, will find ways to send those critters to the land beyond, and he bemoans the hours he wastes keeping them away from his vineyards. Other than that he said, “I spend all my time either growing things or fixing things.” Not only is he an expert grower, personally maintaining 27 acres of vineyards and 850 olive trees, but Smyth is a treasure trove of a resources on weather and grapes. He

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knows quite a bit about many things — American history and horse types and the origin of customs and other fun facts. He said he’s learned most of these things from his guests over the years. Smyth’s collection of 18 carriages — from a picnicking carriages to a carriage hearse — are impressive, and Smyth has many a story to tell. A portion of the carriage house collection is devoted to his family history. His grandfather’s horse business was the genesis of Smyth’s love for horses. His grandfather and his two brothers worked in the Southern stockyards buying horses to be sent abroad to help fight in WWI. His two carriage horses are named ‘Brix,’ after the sweet winemaking term and also his frequent stay society, and ‘Brougham,’ after the light, fourwheeled horse-drawn carriage from the 19th century. According to Smyth, what we’ve been seeing on TV isn’t accurate. There needs to be two drivers in a carriage when there are two horses (not one driver), and drivers don’t slap the reins, they put pressure on the reins. “You talk to them,” Smyth explained. “They hear better than we do, especially me,” he said. “I can vouch for that,” Syed added. “The reins are obviously used for turning and pressure,” Smyth said. “The breaking is mostly done by the horse.” Thoroughbreds cannot be used as driving horses, as certain breeds do better than others. Hanging from one of his carriages and in front of a stunning stained glass Smyth found at an auction, is one of his groom’s (driver’s) wear dress coat and top hat. Smyth will tell you, from competing in carriage competitions on the East Coast, that drivers, in the spirit of big city coachmen, are always dressed to the hilt. But he said, “It’s just as important how the groom looks as how your horses look.” Smyth used to drive in the local parades as well, including Templeton’s Fourth of July parade, though it wasn’t easy driving his horse and carriage through the street when bands and flying candy were involved. There’s no doubt, whoever stays at Carriage House will learn something — whether it’s about growing wine grapes or horses or carriages, or even a funny joke about a fella selling Bibles — they will come home with something they never knew before. Smyth started collecting carriages after his career flipping homes. He built a house in Orange County and noticed a neighbor had four horses and a big coach. “It was fabulous,” he remembered. He then started buying carriages at auctions. No doubt his guests will be surprised to hear their host once drove the Rocky Mountains on a horse-drawn Brougham. What does it feel like to do that? We wonder… “Well — don’t have to buy gas. And you certainly buy a lot of hay. It’s more peaceful,” said Smyth– so peaceful, he said, the reason we have sleighbells is so one can hear the carriage coming. The soft padding of the snow made the carriage wheels almost silent. The B&B’s four rooms, named after carriages like the Victoria and Phaeton, range from ($160 to $300 per night),

Syed's famous, fresh-baked monkey bread.

The Victoria suite.

The Vis a Vis suite.

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March/April 2018

A collection of hundred-year-old carriages are on site at the Carriage B&B.

though they offer special deals and one-night stay options. The rooms are comfortable, with antique wash stands and headboards that Smyth hand-made himself. The Coachman Studio, which can accommodate up to four guests, is a separate building from the main B&B, just up the hill in the middle of the vineyards, with a kitchenette, bar and dining table, as well as a walk-in closet, bath and shower. Another large room is the Vis-a-Vis (French for face-to-face), with adjoining rooms perfect for those staying with older children. The rooms all have king beds and excellent Wi-Fi. Some offer private entrances, others have a spa tub for two and garden views or views of the woods. Syed likes to place fresh cut roses from the gardens in the rooms when the roses have bloomed — just the kind of thing that makes a bed and breakfast different from a chain hotel. Carriage House B&B has hosted more than 7,000 guests from 37 different countries and all over the United States. Syed is a happy concierge, and she enjoys sharing information on the 230 wineries she has visited in the North County area. She’ll plan out a whole itinerary according to the guests’ needs, with tips on nearby scenic walks and hiking or local happenings in town such as cycling events and local festivals like ZinFest as well as what to look for, such as bright orange California poppies in Spring. “I think what separates us from places like airbnbs and hotels is the personalized service,” she said. “I try to keep track of what’s going on so that people with different interests can do just about

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anything. The Distillery Trail. The cider houses. There are a lot of people who come just for the area and then they realize that this is a big wine destination. Most of them have some connection to wine.” Smyth nodded, agreeing with what Syed said. In his unassuming, humorous way he said what most in the hospitality business have said for a while, “Without wine Paso would be uninhabitable.” Indeed. Carriage Vineyards Bed & Breakfast is located at 4337 South El Pomar in Templeton. For more information, visit www. carriagevineyards.com. For online availability and reservations e-mail: Stay@CarriageVineyards.com or call (805) 227-6807 (toll free at: 800-617-7911).For vineyard questions, you may e-mail: Larry Smyth at larry@carriagevineyards.com. From the North: Take hwy 101 south into the town of Templeton (just south of Paso Robles). Exit Vineyard Drive and turn right onto Vineyard. Follow Vineyard and turn right onto Templeton Road. Take Templeton Road until you come to South El Pomar. Make a left onto South El Pomar. The buildings are on the right hand side nestled back on the hillside. From the South: Take hwy 101 north into the town of Templeton (approximately 25 miles north of San Luis Obispo ). Exit Hwy 41 (Morro Road) in Atascadero and head East. Turn Left onto Templeton Road. Take Templeton Road to South El Pomar. Make a right onto South El Pomar. The buildings are on the Right hand side nestled back on the hillside.

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Accessories for Wine Lovers

here are many products on the market made to enhance the wine-drinking experience. And with the wine industry booming and serving a growing target audience, makers of wine accessories are always looking to set themselves apart. © FOTOLIA / AP

This fierce competition has led to quality products and cheaply made ones, as well, so do your research before paying big bucks for the next big thing. Some wine traditionalists will tell you that all you need to enjoy the wine-drinking experience are a bottle and glass, but some of the following accessories have definitely carved out a niche in the wine market. Wine Collar The perfect accessory for the clean and tidy drinker, a wine collar fits around the neck of the bottle and absorbs any drips that may run down after pouring. The collar helps in preventing stains on tablecloths, countertops and picnic tables. Tastevin These small and shallow saucers are industry mainstays used by winemakers and sommeliers when judging VINO Central Coast Edition

wine. They are generally designed with a shiny, textured inner surface to catch light and allow for testers to see through the wine. Wine Journal It’s hard keeping up with the wines you have tried on various trips and vacations. Why not write them down? A wine journal will help you maintain and update lists of your favorite wines, as well as information on their producer, region, price and your personal rankings. Wine Thief Home winemakers can’t live without a wine thief, which is manufactured with glass or food-grade plastic and used in wine production. Its purpose is to remove a small amount of wine from fermentation devices for testing. Wine Stoppers These invaluable tools are

more of a necessity than an accessory. Stoppers close leftover wine bottles before refrigeration, helping to keep wine from going stale. They come in many shapes and colors, but are mainly produced from cork, rubber or plastic materials. Wine Cooler No, not the low-alcohol, artificially flavored variety. Wine coolers are essential in keeping your favorite reds

and whites perfectly chilled on picnics, camping trips and outdoor barbecues. Wine Clip Designed to remove potential impurities, the wine clip fits over a wine bottle and acts as a magnetic filter. Producers of these accessories claim that clips work to stimulate and enhance the taste of wine. © GREENSHOOT MEDIA

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by Jenny Wagner of renowned Caymus fame, from northern Central Coast fruit. These are just a few examples of what I’m trying to point out. There are countless others. In fact, last year’s very limited release of Broadside’s Ephemera Cabernet had wine critics scratching their heads, wondering just how limitless the Central Coast’s Bordeaux potential could be. THOSE MARVELOUS MALBECS! Now while I certainly am a big fan of rooting for the home team, as a wine journalist, I have an obligation to look beyond my roots. So, I hope you will indulge me as I share some other wine prospects that you might enjoy. Let’s just hope that the more we consume their wines, the more they will enjoy ours. To that end, can you name the French expatriate who has given a huge boost to the economies of Argentina and Chile? Stay with me for a moment. Napoleon was a French General who nearly conquered the world. But the latest French conqueror is neither loathed nor short in stature. In fact, this French native’s rise to “grapeness” has been enjoyed and celebrated all over the world… especially in South America. Any guesses?

Let’s just say he was no match for his French Bordeaux cousins… the likes of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. His name is Malbec, the free spirit of the Bordeaux family. In Bordeaux he grew like a weed but was a lot better at producing vines than quality fruit. That is, until he decided to leave Europe and take up roots in South America. It turns out that the climate of South American locales like Chile and Argentina offered far better conditions to produce the perfectly ripened fruit to make marvelous Malbec that shines on its own rather than being relegated to a blending grape that no one ever noticed. 42

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Today, Malbec’s popularity is undeniable… and it is giving other reds a serious run for their money. Spend $20 on an Argentine Malbec and you’ll be very pleased. Spend $30 to $40 and you’ll be amazed! For marvelous Bordeaux on a budget, say “Make mine a Malbec!” But there’s even better news. Central Coast winemakers are discovering that Malbec grows very nicely in our neck of the woods… so check out both the South American and local Malbecs for a great Bordeaux varietal on a budget. HERE’S WHERE TO LOOK FOR OTHER GREAT WINE VALUES South America is not the only place where wine bargains abound. Wines from Spain, Italy and much of France are available at well below California prices. They are different wines, but there is no shortage of quality. Your dollar will work as much as 50 percent harder in Europe right now. Big bargains abound in both Australia and New Zealand; and these wines will taste more familiar to you. Think Australian Cabernets and Shiraz (we call it Syrah). From New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are all the rage for good reason. If you’re a fan of bright white wines, consider South Africa, where a tiny price will get you a Chenin Blanc that will be irresistible. Red wines from this part of the world are trickier, so taste before you waste. It’s not a matter of good or bad, but rather a stylistic difference that, in my experience, doesn’t always suit the American palate. IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT TEQUILA AND BEER ANYMORE! South of the American border, there’s a lot of awesome wine being made. The Baja California wine industry is on fire right now and many of these wines are shockingly good, some made under the guidance of renowned winemakers from America and beyond, and the prices are ridiculously low. No, Mexico is not just about tequila and great beer anymore, however, the amazing craftsmanship that now goes into making astonishing tequila and beer has clearly spilled over to the blossoming wine industry. Prepare to be amazed. WINE LOVERS: WE WELCOME SUBSTITUTIONS Even though you may be set in your ways when it comes to your favorite wine varietals, a little open mindedness could really save you a ton of money AND broaden your horizons! Accordingly, why not savor

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something different while you save? For Cabernet lovers, consider any of the other Bordeauxs, including Merlot which is a great bargain right now, Malbec, Nero D’Avola from Italy, Touriga Nacional from Portugal, Aglianico and Lagrein which are also from Italy and Carmenere from Chile. Good Pinot is quite expensive right now, so consider Italian Dolcetto and Sangiovese, French Gamay and a personal favorite, Grenache from France or right here in our own back yard. Though Merlot really is a great bargain now and a terrific alternative to Cabernet Sauvignon, you might consider a nicely priced Tempranillo from Spain or California, Syrah or Shiraz from various locales, plumy Malbec from Argentina and Mouvedre, a varietal that deserves a lot more respect than it is getting. Zinfandel prices continue to climb and if you want to save a bit, try it’s Italian twin, Primitivo, Malbec, Grenache, Shiraz from Australia, and if you can get it, Plavac Mali from Croatia… the granddaddy of Zin. For Chardonnay lovers, there are tons of choices. My personal favorites are Albarinos from Northwestern Spain or California, Roussanne from France’s Rhone Valley or California, Torrontes from Argentina or California, or Vouvray from the French region of the same name, which is actually Chenin Blanc. Of course, Sauvignon Blanc aged in oak is often a less expensive Chardonnay alternative. Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Muscat/ Moscatto are already nicely priced, so go for the very best as they will not break the bank. Some Sauvignon Blancs can be pricier than others, so you should definitely check out the more tropicallytinted ones made in New Zealand. Beyond that, don’t VINO Central Coast Edition

miss out on Austrian Gruner Veltliner, Argentine and California Torrontes, French Chablis (which is made from Chardonnay) and Albarino once again. SUMMING UP Remember, popular can often mean “pricey,” but never forget that there are literally thousands of varietals out there for you to choose from and there has never been a time when exploring the options has been as popular. There is no end to the excellent wine values out there and the less understood these wines are by the general public, the less you will to pay for a bottle or glass. As the younger and more adventurous generations do all they can to satisfy their wine curiosity, there’s little doubt that the bargains will evaporate, so the best advise I can offer is to get while the getting is good! This is the greatest moment in history for wine lovers!

ABOUT THE AUTHOR, DAVID WILSON David Wilson is the host of America’s leading wine radio broadcast, Grape Encounters, which is heard coast to coast and has 19 stations in America’s top 20 radio markets alone. David and his wife Annie also operate the Grape Encounters Empourium, in Atascadero, the only wine bar on the Central Coast to boast perfect 5 stars across all social media. Many consider it to be one of the most unique wine bars in America. Author, entertainer, educator wine judge, wine maverick and lush, David loathes pretentiousness and has cultivated a massive audience of like-minded listeners who share his desire to deviate from convention.

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Continued from page 29

where a lot of big mistakes are made… probably because its one place we shouldn’t trust our instincts. Part of the complication is the fact that spice has two components; the flavors and the sensation of heat or burning. They are two very different things. IF THE HEAT’S TOO HOT, GIVE WINE SOME THOUGHT! There is no questioning the fact that ethnic food is hotter than ever; both literally and figuratively. However, if you prefer wine to beer, selecting something to savor with serious spiciness can be challenging; particularly because foodies are moving further and further away from conventional Mexican, same old Szechwan, tame Thai and institutional Indian. For many years, we have turned to these foods to spice up our lives, but they have always presented serious pairing predicaments for wine lovers. As a result, wine never enjoyed much, if any, space on the menus of restaurants that specialized in spicy. Beer has always been the big dog, and who would ever dispute the fact that Asian, Eastern and “South of the border” beers are among the very best in the world. More importantly, they were created to compliment their regional cuisine. The pairing was done for you. Ironically, two things are happening simultaneously that make this the perfect time to give some serious thought to pairing spicy and wine. First, as I’ve already pointed out, turning up the heat is a hot culinary trend. But it’s not just about making our ethnic favorites hotter. It’s about marvelously creative new dishes and twists on old themes that don’t carry any baggage with them in terms of pairing preconceptions. Second, wine is enjoying 44

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massive new popularity in places once dominated by beer. That means, around the world, wine is a greater consideration when it comes to culinary creation.

Decisions, Decisions…

Wine or Margarita? Choose Both!

People sometimes overlook the fact that the alcohol in wine is exactly the same as it is in any other alcoholic beverages. Only the percentage is different. Accordingly, wine can often be substituted for Vodka, Rum and even Tequila. The trick is usually to stick with white wines that lack overly powerful characteristics. I love to use Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay to make wine cocktails. Because wine is much lower in alcohol, you just need to use more of it. Since we have been talking spicy foods, here is an ultra simple recipe for a Margarita that can really fool people as being the real McCoy. This one is a major winner, especially in the heat of summer. Best of all, it only has three ingredients. Start with a full bottle of Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. If you use wines that have been oaked, you'll find the effect to be similar to dark tequila. If you use an unoaked wine, your margarita will come out more like those made with silver or white tequila. Add a full can of lemonade concentrate from the frozen food section of your market. Squeeze 5 to 8 limes into the mixture. You're done! Serve over ice, Cadillac style or blended with ice for a summer cool-down that simply can't be beat. For a tad bit more authenticity, a triple sec as you would to a Margarita, but frankly, you really don’t need it. It purely amazing how well this works. You’ll want to experiment with other wine cocktails once you’ve tried this one. Oh, I forgot to mention the fact that you can use almost any cheap wine and this recipe will come out just fine. Now that's living!

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THE BURNING COOLS WHEN YOU KNOW THE RULES! Everyone knows the rules, if it’s big, bold or beefy, red rules. If it clucks, gobbles or swims, white wins. So one would tend to pair spice with red, enough said? Whoa! The answer is NO! Rather than explain why most conventional wisdom is wrong, let’s simply lay out some very simple rules that will work for spicy food regardless if it’s roots come from Mexico, Asia, India or elsewhere. • The higher the alcohol, the hotter the food will seem. High alcohol wines are often described as having a “bite.” When you are eating something hot, higher alcohol beverages will increase the sensation of heat. That’s why it makes more sense to shoot tequila before or after the meal, but not during. Instead we tend toward beer and margaritas. Beer counteracts heat because it is low in alcohol and is also effervescent, which tends to subdue the heat. Margaritas are actually not really that high in alcohol. Consider this: If there are two shots of tequila in a Margarita at 40% alcohol, that’s 3 ounces at 40 percent. If you have two 6-ounce glasses of wine at 13% alcohol, you’re actually drinking 30% more alcohol than the Margarita. However, if you stick to loweralcohol, sweet or semi-sweet wine, it’s about the same as having a Margarita with your meal. I mention sweet and semi-sweet for a reason that will become clear in Rule No. 2. • Sweet will defeat heat. The sugar in a margarita does more than make the drink taste delicious; it also lowers our Central Coast Edition VINO

perception of the heat. Sugar has a profound impact on how hot a food tastes. Can you imagine pairing a White Zinfandel or Muscat with spicy Mexican or Thai? Maybe not, but give it a try. Semi-sweet Rieslings are also a favorite pairing choice among savvy Sommeliers. Ask your wine merchant for crisp wines with prominent fruit characteristics. • Don’t let oak or overly powerful wine characteristics overpower spice. Spice has two elements: Heat and flavor. When in doubt, tend toward more neutral white wines that are unoaked or lightly oaked that let the spice shine through. Sauvignon Blanc is a great spice pairing. Grüner Veltliner from Austria, Albarino from Spain or California, Chablis, unoaked Chardonnay, Viogner, and Gewürztraminer are all beautiful choices. Note: Oaked wines tend to conflict with spice in a not-so– good way. • Acid, yes. Tannins, no. Red, it depends, but probably not. OK, I guess that is actually three rules in one, except that tannins and red wine go handin-hand. Tannins tend to accentuate heat and red wine. Unless chosen very carefully for a specific dish, they're likely to throw off the subtle nuisances of the spicy food. It just seems so counterintuitive, but as in your face spices may seem, they represent a very delicate balance. Wine is not meant to modify a food’s flavor. Now, having said that, one exception that I see pretty often is red Zinfandel. This juicy VINO Central Coast Edition

fruit-forward wine pairs very well with a wide variety of spicy foods. A red like Cabernet Sauvignon has such a complex flavor profile that the pairing is risky for sure. As for acidity, it also has the tendency to counterbalance heat. A couple of other reds you might try are Pinot Noir and Beaujolais. So, bottom line, semi-sweet or fruit forward, low alcohol, acidic whites are a sensational match. • Bubbles are beautiful! Champagne and Shrimp Diabola? Oh, heck yeah! These days, bubbles are getting the respect they have long deserved as a wine that should be on the table throughout the meal. They give you the high acidity, low alcohol, unoaked characteristics, plus effervescence that really calms the sting of overly hot fare. DON’T BE AFRAID TO EXPERIMENT I want to emphasize that these are only rules of thumbs, and if you experiment with both red and white wine pairings, you’ll definitely come up with some great results. That’s what makes pairing fun. The guidelines offered are really all about ensuring you a really great experience that is unlikely to have negative repercussions. The next time you’ve just “gotta’ have an enchilada” or you’re “in a hurry for Thai curry,” perhaps you will reach for a Riesling. Now, it seems strange to recommend a German wine with Mexican or Asian food, but great culinary experiences don’t know geographical boundaries!

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