Vino sept oct 2017lr

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

Thomas Hill Organics

New Chef

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ROCKSTAR WINEMAKER

Hal Schmitt of Volatus FEATURED BREWERY

Tap it Brewery

SPAIN Travelogue!

FEATURED LODGING

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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

In This Issue

ROCK STAR WINEMAKER Hal Schmitt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

TASTING NOTES WITH STAN ANGEL Tasting Room Etiquette . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

TRAVEL Simply Spain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Central Coast Wine Competition . . . . . . . . 32

Featured Tasting Room: Midnight Cellars .20 Featured Dining: Thomas Hill Organics . . 24 CALENDAR OF EVENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

SOUTH COUNTY WINE TASTING MAP . 33 Featured Lodging: Sundance B&B . . . . . . 36 Featured Brewery: Tap it Brewing Co. . . . . 39

NORTH COUNTY WINE TASTING MAP .30

GENERAL MANAGER Beth Bolyard bbolyard@atascaderonews.com EDITOR Luke Phillips lphillips@atascaderonews.com EDITORIAL Stan Angel Beth Giuffre

Luke Phillips Madeline Vail ADVERTISING Stan Angel Adriana Novack Sheri Potruch GRAPHIC DESIGN Jim Prostovich

COVER PHOTO Photo by Luke Phillips: Thomas Hill Organics VINO MAGAZINE PasoRoblesPress.com 805-237-6060 935 Riverside Ave, 8A Paso Robles, CA 93446

VINO is published by the Paso Robles Press. All rights reserved, material may not be reprinted without written consent from the publisher. The Paso Robles Press made every effort to maintain the accuracy of information presented in the magazine, but assumes no responsibility for errors, changes or omissions.

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HAL SCHMITT

WINEMAKER

VOLATUS

TOPGUN

instructor and

Navy Pilot

Hal “Bull” Schmitt

Stumbles into wine industry and keeps the course

By Beth Giuffre OF VINO MAGAZINE

B

eing a TOPGUN pilot and instructor can be a highly stressful career. In order to decompress, Hal “Bull” Schmitt would land himself in Paso Robles from his Leemore Naval Station in hazy Kings County to drink the wines from his favorite appellation with his Navy fighter pilot friends. He’d been stationed all over the Far East and lived all over the world, but preferred to wind down where the weather is equable and the people are welcoming. Though he loved frequenting the wine country, he hadn’t considered himself a wine connoisseur at the time.

He said he just aimed at putting a dent in the growing Paso Robles wine supply.

Volatus, which is Latin for ‘flight’ is Schmitt’s wine label, a yearly production of 600 or 700 cases of about four reds, one white, and a rosé. Schmitt has been making the wine out of the Midnight Cellars winery for about nine years now.

But becoming a winemaker had not been Schmitt’s career plan at all. He had a rock solid military career under his belt already. He didn’t need another job. All he wanted was a little down time.

The big change in the wind came when Midnight’s winemaker Rich Hartenberger decided to pour a ‘95 Cabernet Franc into Schmitt’s glass, a single varietal wine that Schmitt hadn’t ever heard of. While bonding over Hartenberger and

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Schmitt’s Notre Dame and Midwest connection, Schmitt realized that glass was the best wine he had ever tasted, and it felt like a revelatory slap in the face.

“It was that moment of clarity,” Schmitt remembered thinking, “This is why people like wine.” Midnight Cellars’ ‘95 Cab Franc is still up in Schmitt’s top three wines. He’s saved stashes of bottles, and opened one up just the other night with his brother, Kevin Schmitt, who heads the Volatus sales and quality control from Virginia. Both brothers couldn’t believe the wine was “still tremendous.”

Schmitt was so impressed that day that he offered to help Hartenberger on his next harvest. A couple months later, Hartenberger called him back, asking if he still wanted to help, and if he could start right away.

Schmitt went to get Navy approval for his new side project. Luckily, his commanding officer happened to be huge into wine.

“He said take as much time as you need as long as you bring wine back,” Schmitt said.

So Schmitt took leave from the Navy. He has only missed two harvests since 1998, because of two Navy deployments, but otherwise, the winemaking and the close relationship he developed with the Hartenberger family completely hooked Schmitt. His jet has landed in Paso.

Nowadays Schmitt flies quite a few planes, literally and figuratively. His 2016 harvest recap includes a CAVU white Rhone blend, made with Viognier from the Caliza Vineyard up the road, Grenache Blanc, and Roussane from Templeton Gap. A small, family grower contributed to the Cabernet Sauvignon, and it’s now “tucked away” in two year old French barrels.

Schmitt bought a couple tons of Syrah from the El Pomar district, falling for the dark fruit flavors and deep, inky purple color, which will blend into the Fox-3. He found some Petit Verdot and Tannat for blending as well.

Schmitt said he is “totally hooked” on Tannat ever since he found a couple vineyards that grow the dark and intense “but not overly tannic” varietal. He made more Tannat in 2016, than any other varietal.

For all the Volatus reds, Schmitt used a long cold soak process for ultimum extraction.

Volatus can be sold online to most states, but the bulk of sales are Schmitt’s wine club members, who Schmitt said are closely supported by military folk. The wine club is named “The Ready Room” after the aircraft carrier space where fighter squadrons would historically wait to be prepared at a moment’s notice.

The Volatus Reserve Red ($25) is Schmitt’s top seller.

The 2007 blend of Malbec and Syrah, known for its’ warm, velvety voluptuous characteristics, was given 92 points by the Sommelier Company.

The 2014 TOPGUN Cuvee ($28), a Paso Robles Petit Verdot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon blend, is a fullbodied wine.

“Our plan forward with the current wine is that Bordeaux style blend,” Schmitt said. “I like oak so there’s

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great oak on it.”

His 2014 Fox-3 ($32) is a 50/50 blend of Syrah and Grenache.

“I’m biased but it’s pretty tasty wine,” said Schmitt, adding that the term Fox-3 is a call pilots make when they fire a missile.

“When I went to TOPGUN that was my first lecture and first subject matter that I had to master,” he said.

Also available now is Schmitt’s 2015 bright ruby Pinot Noir from the Adelaida District ($34) and the 2016 Bolter Rosé ($14) made from the dry rosé of Tannat, Grenache and a hint of Viognier.

The 2014 Inside Passage Reserve White ($25) is Schmitt’s first white wine, and is a sumptuous blend of Viognier, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc. His 2015 CAVU ($25), named after the ultralight aircraft, is a blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne.

In between winemaking, Schmidt also performs tactical systems and analyst work for TAC Air, a company run by former TOPGUN graduates. He may be preparing for harvest one day and working on airplane weapons systems and giving lessons on new fighter planes on other days.

Schmitt is always in motion. He also runs a photography school with his wife, Victoria, leading groups of adventure photographers to Alaska twice each spring to photograph eagles, glaciers and bears.

He is also the father of three daughters, two of whom have claimed the small vineyard at their Templeton home as their own. He and his wife Victoria work together in the wine and photography business, working late photographing bottles of Volatus, and lately, cooking anything and everything on Schmitt’s sous vide oven.

Schmitt’s life and winemaking philosophy might have been channelled by the Greek philosopher, Epicurus himself, as he believes, like Epicurus, that happiness is not a private affair, and it can be more readily achieved where like-minded individuals band together to help inspire one another’s pursuit of happiness. He has a wonderful, encouraging relationship with “Toby” winemaker at Tobin James Cellars. James talked Schmitt into increasing his production to be two feet in the game.

Schmitt completely delights in making good wine, and he loves to share it with others, especially his surrogate family at Midnight Cellars.

“I can geek out like the best of them on wine, but you don’t need to do that all the time,” he said. He likes to keep busy with many projects, and said he feels fortunate to be still flying, while also enjoying the fun of winemaking and leading photography groups.

“There’s a lot of things that I like to do that share something in common,” he said. “I did learn that when you’re flying fighters, especially fighters in a dynamic environment, everybody tends to think you need this technical skillset. Yes, it’s true, but the best pilots are those who can think in an artistic manner as well. So it has to be a combination of the technical and of the art.”

The other night he and his wife, who watch cooking

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By Stan Angel OF VINO MAGAZINE

Volatus Pinot Noir

Paso Robles Adelaida District 2015 This wine is smooth, fruity and keeps the promise of Pinot to be rich and big.

The fact that it spends 12 full months on French oak is apparent from the hint of smokiness and a very mellow woody flavor that in no way overpowers the fruit. An elegant wine that finishes with a slight heartiness that has it pairing well with beef, pasta or any dish on the heavier side.

I paired it with a Santa Maria tri-tip off the grill and it was perfect.

Volatus Bolter

Paso Robles 2016 “Bolter: When an aircraft attempts an arrested landing but misses the wire, does not stop and goes flying again” This is the quote that Hal “Bull” Schmitt put on his bottle of Bolter.

Why? Well you’ll have to ask him because this lovely Rose hits on all cylinders. Imagine if you will, sitting at sunset, on your deck, a slight breeze overcoming the heat of the day. Enjoying a platter of cheese, sliced apples and pears maybe strawberries. Looking for that refreshing wine to pair, this is it. Light fruit, strawberries with a touch of citrus. Cool, refreshing, delicious. This Rose is a delicious blend of Tannat, Grenache, and a hint of Viognier.

Volatus Cavu

Paso Robles 2015 First, let’s be clear, I am fussy, no, obsessive about white wine. I come to a glass of white wine skeptical from the start. So, to impress me with 12

September/October 2017

shows for ideas, made a birthday dinner for Victoria’s sister: Super slow roasted tri-tip on the sous vide paired with a Fox-3, and Alaskan snow crab legs paired with his rhone white CAVU. His 3-year-old, Tiernan, preferred eating a hot dog, but his 7-year-old daughter Sorin (named after the founder of Notre Dame), and Reagan, his 10-year-old, were all over it. His daughters picked for the vineyard last year. Schmitt may come across as a serious person because of the TOPGUN conditioning, more of an Iceman than a Maverick, but as soon as he starts talking about wine, the creativity and passion pours out, and it’s obvious Schmitt has landed on a path that suits him and his wines mimik his spirit of perfectionism and dedication, as well as his Epicuruscentered philosophy that drinking and eating should be fun and social. Schmitt said he’d be bored doing only one thing. “There’s zero stress involved in winemaking,” he said. “It’s kind of a fun, creative process. It’s very different than everything else I do. Now I’m fortunate to do it more often.”

The movie Top Gun has played a role in his life, believe it or not. Until the movie, Schmitt thought Military pilots were strictly Air Force.

Schmitt was born into a strong family in St. Louis, Mo., as the oldest of three siblings, but his father’s job as an Air Force officer led him to grow up at military bases all on both coasts of the United States and abroad, including Seoul, South Korea.

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a white wine speaks volumes. This white wine impressed me. CAVU, to an aviator stands for “ Ceiling and Visibility Unlimited.” ok I get it.

The clarity of this wine is the fruit, it comes through from the scent of pears and honeysuckle to the blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne grapes. The blend is so spotless , so beautiful that the wine has a clean, refreshing taste that is so good on the palate. However, not wimpy or light as some white wines are. Light yet hearty, fruity yet a touch of dryness that is a perfect balance.

Volutus Fox Three 2014 Paso Robles “It was pretty good living actually,” said Schmitt. “In retrospect it [moving around] was the best thing that ever happened to me. You learn to adapt to things and meet new people.”

In his high school years in Southeast Virginia, when his father was stationed at Langley Air Force Base, Schmitt was set on following in his father’s flight path as an Air Force pilot. As a perfect package of good grades and success in sports, Schmitt proved to be military officer material, and was offered scholarships to go the Air Force path, only the Air Force wanted him to be an electrical engineer, which didn’t appeal to the young Schmitt.

That’s when he saw the movie and realized that Tom Cruz’s character was a pilot in the Navy.

“I feel the need…” as the movie line goes. “...for speed.”

Schmitt’s mother offered him a trip to visit Notre Dame. He fell in love the minute he stepped foot on campus, and decided he’d give them a call. Notre Dame offered him a scholarship, so Schmitt went into Notre Dame in Liberal Arts as a Russian language major and onto a 15-year career in the Navy.

In flight school, because of a gap year when, because of logistics, he couldn’t start learning to dogfight and to simulate aggressor roles in a trainer plane going 150-175 miles per hour, Schmitt was sent to an advanced fighter squadron in Virginia, a term called being “stashed.” The result was that his first flights were not in small airplanes but in F-16’s and A-4’s operating at 400-600 miles an hour. That kind of training gave Schmitt a head start at the speed of sound. He went on to fly the Hornet out in California just because he wanted to, remembering the photographs his father took on his many travels to the Continued on page 40

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50 percent Grenache, 50 percent Syrah and 100 percent delicious.

This red blend has a rich fruity start, very approachable like fresh berries and just a hint of cloves, silky with a hearty finish light in tannins.

While encompassing all the qualities of a big bold red, at the same time the smoothness of a lighter wine.

Satisfying in every way. The scent of light florals on the nose.

Volutus Reserve Red Wine Paso Robles 2008

Hal Schmitt truly has mastered blending techniques. I think he takes the best part of his aviation career, the discipline and attention to detail part and combines it with his fighter pilot knowledge, thinking “ outside the box (literally) and being creative.

Combining Syrah and Petite Syrah in fine French oak creates a smooth, drinkable wine. While aromas of cherries and dark chocolate are present. The flavor and richness of the two Syrahs is undeniable. Full bodied with hearty dark fruit flavors.

Thoroughly enjoyable, light tannins and the kind of wine that leaves you wanting more.

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TRAVEL

A resident of “gourmand country” travels abroad

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By Madeline Vail OF VINO MAGAZINE

s a full time resident of Central California, Paso Robles specifically, I believe I can safely say that I live in a region that not only takes its food very seriously but offers such variety of flavors, ingredients and combinations that it boggles one’s mind. That being said, on a recent trip to Spain, after hearing about how incredible Spanish food is, I went with an eager an open mind. The most profound thing I came back home with is a renewed appreciation for simplicity and purity of product. While all the creativity is exciting a simple meal where the only attraction is the quality of the one item — such as an austere plate of sliced manchego — can be so easy on the mind, much appreciated after a long hot day of sight-seeing and deeply satisfying.

Besides watching a three week old roasted suckling pig getting hacked into quarters with a blunt edged dinner plate in Segovia, I would dare to say the dining fare you will find in most regions across Spain are relatively the Continued on page 18

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Restaurante Casa María Plaza Ruedo Alameda, 27, 29400 Ronda, Málaga, Spain

same, differentiated only by subtle spices, and can be separated into fairly simple categories: tapas, seafood, meat and dessert, most often referred to as postres.

The first category, tapas. With the relatively drastic increase in Spanish tourism over the past decade, the authentic concept of tapas has seemingly become somewhat of an elusive experience if one is looking for “authentic tapas.” Tapas is simply defined as “small Spanish savory dishes, typically served with drinks at a bar.” Traditionally, no matter what kind of beverage you order, whether it be a bottle of water, a coke, a beer or a flute of cava you are also offered a small plate of some tasty, little item whether is be a simple croqueta, a small toast with a slice of cheese and iberian ham, or a slice of “tortilla de espana” which is basically a savory slice of eggs and potatos and is an epic challenge to make at home. Yet, with the influx of naive and non-Spanish speaking tourists, there are now “tapas restaurants” and “tapas menus” and the entire spirit of the course can be lost if one gets too eager. Solution to the problem?

Simply order your drink at any Spanish bar and wait.

Don’t grab a menu, don’t help yourself or point to any of the tempting dishes displayed under glass. Just wait and see what they give you and you will be pleasantly surprised. While it may not be something you chose for yourself, it is the true spirit of tapas — a hospitable

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gift from the bar, a little surprise that emanates the pervading lifestyle in Spain…”here eat something!”

If you just can’t give up your sense of control yet absolutely have to experience tapas, the next best thing is to head over to the local market or boqueria, choose a counter and order up. My favorite one in all of Spain is Mercado de San Miguel in Madrid. Here you will find rows and rows of every sort of “small bite” that Spain has to offer and then some. From heaps of bacalao (smoked, pickled or cooked cod) on little slices of toast and freshly fried potato chips to oysters on the halfshell and French cheeses. This Victorian glass covered sanctuary of all things gastronomic is open until midnight every night and if anything is worthy of a walk-through.

The next category would be your “mains” with the choices basically being either meat or fish. My personal favorite is the boquerones fritos, little fried white sardines served with a couple of wedges of lemon. It’s the same everywhere with the only difference being the freshness of the fish and the oil. Other typical seafood fare are mussels, calamari, octopus, cod and more cod.

When it comes to meat, Spain is a carnivore’s paradise.

Typical menu choices range from rich and juicy grass fed beef, grilled and served with patatas fritas (fried potatoes), stewed ox-tail to an entire leg of roasted baby goat. As for that goat, if one really wants to experience “old school” typical Spanish roasted goat my highest recommendation would be the ultra-classic Restaurante Sidrería Casa Parrondo in Madrid.

And then finally, the postres, where one will typically be offered a square of flan or maybe a slice of cheesecake. Since pastry/sweet shops can be found in every direction on practically every street, I personally chose to save my calories and take my postres solo, on their own, maybe with a cafe and avoid the distractions and the already impending pain of a distended belly from overindulging.

Now saying all that, when in the precious little town of Ronda, deep in the heart of Andalucia, I stumbled upon a little gem with a 4.6 rating and 2,682 of TripAdviser reviews — Casa Maria. We made our reservations, assuming it would have some of the best croquetas and boquerones in all of Spain. Yet, when finally seated at the table and informed that there would be a 30 Euro per person price tag, beverages not included, I quickly came to the realization that this would not be the case.

There would be no boquerones and certainly not a croqueta in sight. For some perspective on my suprise, a typical dinner or lunch in Spain can be quite economical.

Similar to the French, at any authentic Spanish restaurant you will find a price fixe menu that offers four courses, including bread, beer or wine, coffee and dessert for under 15 Euro. So when we were informed by the waitress, who I later learned was the owner/chef’s daughter and namesake of the establishment, of the Continued on page 42

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FEATURED TASTING ROOM

Midnight Cellars

Single vineyard wines in a cozy family setting Staff Report VINO MAGAZINE

D

own Anderson Road in the ‘Templeton Gap’ grape growing hillside area of Westside Paso Robles is the Midnight Cellars small production, high-quality boutique winery, estate vineyard and tasting room.

Midnight cellars came about as a family project. The Hartenbergers retired and moved their family from Chicago in 1995 to begin planting a 30-acre vineyard on a 160-acre ranch. Winemaker Rich Hartenberger has a reputation for making award-winning, full-bodied Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel wines, and bold and elegant ‘Paso Roblan Blends.’ The estate wines have the advantage of Templeton Gap grapes, coming from an appellation with prime growing weather conditions, and a coastal influence that creates warm days and cool nights. The limestone and calcareous

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soils also add to the rich, ripe flavors of Midnight’s fruit.

The tasting room is open seven days a week at 10 a.m. The ‘backyard’ offers a comfortable lounge and picnic area overlooking the vineyard, and the indoor tasting room is friendly, with a welcoming family feel.

Be sure to say hello to Natalie, who runs the tasting room. She pours a lovely, light, crisp, fruity 2016 Aurora Reserve Rhone Blend with Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne. The 2013 fruit forward Full Moon Red is another highly acclaimed blend of Syrah, Zinfandel and Merlot, with deep cherry notes and easy, light tannins.

Midnight Cellars is located at 2925 Anderson Road., Paso Robles, California 93446.

Contact the Winery and Tasting room at 805-239-8904. www.mignightcellars.com

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Kiamie Wine Cellars

Complimentary BBQ Sundays with Wine Tasting Come visit us at the end of Adelaida Road next to Tolo Winery.

We are located on the beautiful Westside of Paso Robles at 9750 Adelaida Road.

805-226-8333 • kiamiewines.com VINO Central Coast Edition

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FEATURED DINING

New chef at Thomas Hill Organics A new lease on the good life to farm to table restaurant

W

By Beth Giuffre OF VINO MAGAZINE

here did Thomas Hill Organics’ new chef come from?

Kurt Metzger, who now heads both the Paso Robles and San Luis Obispo restaurants, was asking himself the same question after his red Corvette was rear ended a few years ago and a severe brain injury from a bad concussion wiped his memory clean.

He was on his way home to Mission Hills from his restaurant, the wildly popular Kitchen 4140 in San Diego.

The 44-year-old culinary talent who owned and operated his own restaurant on Morena Boulevard and was married to an absolutely gorgeous woman named Syrisa, had his life taken from him in that moment. Everything and everyone he knew was gone in a puff of smoke.

Amnesia had erased it all: Being top of the class at the 24

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Culinary Institute of America in New York, cheffing at Roxxi’s in San Francisco and Bistro 45 in Pasadena, running Concept Catering for 15 years, working with Flavors of San Diego and dominating the annual “I Love Poke San Diego” Festival competition. Gone was his childhood, growing up as a twin near Pasadena, as the son of a Sergeant Major Ranger and loving mother who encouraged his cooking. He lost his father four years before, and when he called his mom, whose voice he didn’t recognize, she had to break the news to him again. He couldn’t remember that he’d been a foodie since he was a child, and had loved to prepare food before he had even become a teen. Friends he had, contacts he made, were taken aback and sometimes insulted when Metzger didn’t recognize them, and the menus which he had perfected were as foreign as the tastes of the ingredients that made up every dish. He and his brother had to start a friendship all over again.

Since the accident took place in 2012, and after physical therapy, a three-month leave of absence, and VINO Central Coast Edition

much frustration over the lack of connection to his past, Metzger had to teach himself how to cook again. This took about six months of feeling ‘in the way’ in his own restaurant while his line cooks and chefs rekindled the basics. He had to start from scratch, basically tasting his way through it, while burning himself on the stove and having to search his kitchen for knives and pots. He spent many a day finding refuge in the walk-in at his restaurant, trying to deal with the complex feelings that came with not knowing the customers and vendors who came in to see him, expecting to be recognized by the very accomplished chef.

He had to meet his wife again, and he fell in love with her again too, remarried her in a new ceremony, and realized the love he had for her was not stored his memory but brightly placed in clear sight in the safety of his soul.

Even without the volumes of experience and culinary training, Metzger managed to return as executive chef at Kitchen 4140, leaving the past behind for the

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September/October 2017

25

adventure that led him to the only thing left to fate: the now.

“I think the accident is probably one of the best things that ever happened to me in my life,” Thomas Hill Organics’ new chef, Metzger said. Metzger has been running the kitchen since the beginning of summer, going back and forth from the Paso Robles and San Luis Obispo restaurants.

“It knocked some sense into him,” added Thomas Hill Organics owner Debbie Thomas. The two have a funny relationship — teasing, joking with her about sending too many photos of food to taunt him. The organic-sourcing restaurateur finally took a vacation river cruise in France, after working non-stop, and Metzger was kidding with her about not buying him a chateau.

“I was a cry baby the whole time she was gone,” he said.

Before and after the accident, his heart has been in travel and he still loves to go to France, Switzerland and the Caribbean. He pulls inspiration from the spices he found from the bazaars of Istanbul. He was about to leave for the weekend with his wife to get a mani/pedi and massage in Vegas for his 50th birthday.

Chef seems happy to be in Paso. He gets into the Santa Maria ovens he cooks on at winery events. He’s bringing back the restaurant’s wood burning oven with his grass fed rib eyes, Niman Ranch pork, and Mary’s chicken.

“I wanted to be here,” he said. “The opportunity came up and I had to jump on it. To me it’s once in a lifetime to be able to run two restaurants like these.”

Metzger is at home in the wine country, and very open when talking about the accident that may have been part of a grand design that brought him to Paso Robles.

“It reset me,” he said. “And it reset my values in life.

My (staff) told me I was very rigid in the kitchen. And after the accident I became more of a mentoring chef as opposed to a yeller.”

He said he recalls the servers saying that he was the most calm chef they had ever met.

“The sun’s coming down, it’s going to come back up,” he said. “There’s no sense being high strung anymore.

It helped me explore more because coming out of the culinary academy everything was so tight, so rigid on the plate. And after the accident I explored more outside the box. I became more playful with my food and I started enjoying what I do more, probably because my brain is seven years old.”

Metzger made the best of his fresh lease on life while back at Kitchen 4140, taking on a mentorship with at-risk youth in a 14-week program that included teaching them the values of work in a restaurant, pulling from the garden, and cooking for them in their homes. He saw the cafeteria food the kids had been eating at school, stuffed full of MSG and powdered gravies. It made him want to cry. Teaching youth the value of organic food and sustainable practices gave Metzger pride in the rustic farm-to-table approach and zero-waste kitchen 26

September/October 2017

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his restaurant was committed to. He would like to begin similar programs in San Luis Obispo County, and his food philosophy remains loyal to local farmers and wineries.

“My vision has always been to pull a table out in the middle of the vineyard with the farmer and the winemaker and make dinner,” he said. “We try to keep everything sustainable and organic as possible. I like the rustic value of it. Plate presentation is important, but I love the artistic side of things. Putting layers and flavors and textures together.”

One of the quintessential summer starters on the Thomas Hill menu is the Paso Robles Loo Loo Farms Heirloom Tomato Burrata, served with sliced artisan bakery bread and crunchy olive gremolata, pesto, garlic confit and saba. Every ingredient is sourced from local farms or the local farmer’s markets: Templeton, San Luis Obispo, and Los Osos being Metzger’s favorite stops. The burrata tastes like it sounds: buttery with love, and is a product of Peacock Farms in Arroyo Grande.

“Burrata alone is wonderful but needs things to heighten it a bit,” Metzger said. He spends a good part of his day forging relationships with local farmers, visiting farmer’s markets, and receiving daily boxes of fresh produce from his favorite local farmers. He wakes at 7 a.m. and checks his emails and watches farm market reports to find out when avocados are spiking or when beef prices are coming down. He organizes the Thomas Hill kitchen in San Luis, meets with his chefs, plans out the night’s reservations. Then he heads back up the hill around 5 p.m. to meet with Thomas in Paso Robles. He works with her on the specials. Then prepares for lunch the next day. By 11:30 p.m., he heads home.

Lately he’s been sourcing from local Morro Bay

fisherman, as seafood has always been his forte. Metzger was happy to report he just met a farmer who harvests every 36 hours after sundown.

“They are the most amazing summer squash I’ve ever seen!” he said.

Corn is late this year, so Metzger joked that he made a scene at the San Luis Obispo market, in an unreasonable demand for corn. He also kidded that the little baggies of micro greens he finds at the San Luis Farmer’s market make him feel like he’s going to get busted by the DEA as soon as he slips the samples in his coat. The peaches are just coming out now, but he’s waiting for optimum sweetness. Loo Loo is supplying peaches for Metzger’s peach cobbler, as well as organic, cage-free eggs.

Metzger said that when he made a dinner for Thomas and her entourage, auditioning for the chef position, he “hit it out of the park” but he didn’t make a dessert, and almost didn’t get the job because of it. But Metzger makes delicious sweets, and his desserts have incredible appeal, including a vanilla panna cotta with citrus luxardo compote and brown butter crumble, as well as an olive oil cake with Olea farms lemon verbina olive oil and seasonal preserve.

The wine at Thomas Hill is mostly local, with an Adelaida Paso Robles Picpoul Blanc and a Herman Story Nuts & Bolts Paso Robles Syrah on the list, but there are the French Rhone Whites and Reds and the Napa Valley choices as well.

“We want the people who live here to have something besides local wine and the tourists can have Paso wine,” said Thomas. “We make sure that we cover both.”

Debbie Thomas said the restaurant’s signature Black Lentil Tacos, which have been on the menu since 2009 Continued on page 43

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15 An Evening in Santa Margarita 5 PM - 9 PM

Celebrate our town, while indulging in all it has to offer.

Enjoy music, food, drinks, and crafts while strolling through town, and even better, proceeds go to support Friends of the Santa Margarita Library.

A portion of sales from The Porch Cafe, The Southern Station, Rosalina &The Range will be donated, and Ancient Peaks Winery will be pouring atHOME •santa margarita•. Stop in to Margarita's newest shop, Casa Luna Rustic Furnishings and sample wine from Vintage Cowboy Winery. Art, crafts and clothing will be on display at Something Blue-Fine Sewing and Wedding Alterations with Melinda Forbes of Ragtime Clothing where Sculpterra Winery will be pouring wine. The Educated Gardener will have music & refreshments from 5:30-8pm and The Barn Antiques & Unique will be hosting a Peddlers Market from 12-7pm with Ice Cream Sundays at 4pm. The Santa Margarita Fire Station will have an open house from 5- 7pm. Literally something for everyone, so cruise down to the El Camino to stop in at your favorite shops and restaurants or if you've never been, visit them for the first time. We have such an amazing town, take some time to explore. A special thank you to our contributors, Diamond M Investments, Foundation Solutions, Oak Country Lumber, Pintor's Tire & Wheel, Santa Margarita Feed, and Pacific Bevererage Co. Thank you all for your support of Friends of the Santa Margarita Library. Hope to see you there!

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 16 Whale Rock Music & Arts Festival 2017

September 16 at 12 PM to September 17 at 10 PM Don't miss Two Days of Wine-Loving, Peace & Jammin' in the Vines at Castoro Cellars on September 16th and 17th 2017! Formerly known as Beaverstock, the 2017 lineup features: Michael Franti and Spearhead, Jamestown Revival, The Motet, Turkuaz, The Suffers, Las Cafeteras, Hot Buttered Rum, The Coffis Brothers, Shawn Clark Family Band, Bear Market Riot, Próxima Parada, Dan Curcio Music, The Cimo Brothers, Samba Loca, The Turkey Buzzards, Nicole Stromsoe, Hillary and Kate. For tickets visit whalerockmusicfestival.com. Whale Rock Music Festival is located at Castoro Cellars at 1315 N Bethel Road in Templeton.

Sangiovese Release & Pick-up Party 11 AM - 5 PM We are kicking off harvest with the release of our 2014 Sangiovese Riserva on Saturday, September 16th. Celebrate with our famous grilled Italian sausage sandwiches and estate grown Sangiovese. Wine club members this is the perfect time to grab those harvest allocations! From 11-5pm or until sold out. No reservations required Complementary event / regular tasting fees apply (members free). Pelletere Estate Vineyard & Winery is located at 3260 Township Road in Paso Ro- bles.

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Taste of Downtown 11 AM - 4 PM Sample food from Paso Robles restaurants and wineries and “take a taste of downtown” that you won’t forget.

Experience the savoriness of what downtown Paso Robles has to offer and relish in this annual event that in- vites merchants to open their doors for one-on-one sampling. This is a great chance to get re-acquainted with downtown Paso Robles or dis- cover what you’ve been missing. Located at Paso Robles Downtown Park more information visit pasoroblesdowntown.org.

Red Soles Winery Blending Party September 16 at 12 PM to Septemnber 17 at 2 PM Come join your fellow Red Soles wine lovers as they compete for the “Club Members Blend”. We’ll meet at the Barrel Room, where we have ta- bles ready to go with unmarked bottles of wine, beakers, notepads and pens. It is up to you and your team to create your favorite blend and hope that it wins it all! Bring your discriminating palate and your clever foot and shoe names too! We’ll be serving a gourmet lunch by Crush Catering to help you power through your session.

Buffet Style Lunch by Crush Catering: $42 for members, $52 for guests. For reservations, email tiffani@redsoleswinery.com or call (805) 226-9898.

Red Soles WInery is lo- cated at 3230 Oakdale Road in Paso Robles.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 17 Book Signing at Peachy Canyon Pick-up Party 12 PM - 2:30 PM

Photographer Julia Perez will be signing copies of The Winemakers of Paso Robles with Doug Beckett at Peachy Canyon Winery - If you have a book come get it signed!

If not, they will be available for purchase throughout the event. Can't wait to see you there! More info visit wnmkrs. com. Peachy Canyon WInery is located at 1480 N Bethel Road in Templeton.

Book Signing at Law Pick-up Party 3 PM - 5 PM Photographer Julia Perez will be signing copies of The Winemakers of Paso Robles with Don Law & Scott Hawley at Law Estate Wines - If you have a book come get it signed! If not, they will be available for purchase throughout the event. Can't wait to see you there! More info visit wnmkrs.com. Law Estate Wines is located at 3885 Peachy Canyon Road.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 22 Greek BBQ in the Vineyard 6 PM - 8 PM

Join us for an outdoor dining experience you’ll never forget featuring our best wines, the beauty of Heart Hill Vineyard and the freshest ingredients from our garden and neighboring farms. You’ll dine in the open air sheltered by a majestic oak grove at Heart Hill Vineyard where the star of the show will be a Whole Lamb slow braised on a spit. Other highlights will in- clude

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Dolmathes (made from Niner grape leaves), Stuffed Figs, and Rice Pudding with Candied Kumquat, Cinnamon, Figs, and Housemade Grape Jam. This intimate event will be limited to 30 guests and will include one of the best sunset viewing spots on the property not normally accessible by the public (photo hint included). Niner WIne Estates is located at 2400 CA-46 in Paso Robles. More information vista ninerwine.com.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 23 Book Signing at Vina Robles Wine Club Open House 11 AM - 2 PM

Photographer Julia Perez will be signing copies of The Winemakers of Paso Robles with Kevin Willenborg at Vina Robles Vineyards & Winery - If you have a book come get it signed! If not, they will be available for purchase throughout the event. Vina Robles Vineyards & Winery 3700 Mill Rd, Pa

Fall Release, Pick Up Party & Book Signing 2 PM - 4 PM We just couldn't wait until October to get the new wines in your hands! Stop by the Release and Pick Up Party in the ONX Tasting Room in Tin City. We'll have food and live music.

ONX Collective Members can pick up their allotments, but everyone is in- vited to come and taste the new wine.

Photographer Julia Perez will be signing copies of The Winemakers of Paso Robles with Brian Brown at ONX Wines - If you have a book come get it signed! If not, they will be available for purchase throughout the event.

Onyx Wines is located on 2910 Limestone Way in Paso Robles.

Central Coast Sour Fest 12 PM - 4 PM "Get Wild In the Country!"

Central Coast Sour Fest, a unique event created by the team at Barrel- House Brewing Co. of Paso Robles, in conjunction with the charity Lifewa- ter of San Luis Obispo. Their focus is to bring together craft beer enthusi- asts and breweries who share a passion for sour and wild ales.

This event is different. The goal is to celebrate craft beer while creating a unique experience for both the brewers and attendees alike while raising dollars and awareness for an important charity.

Backstage passholders and brewers are rewarded with a weekend full of festivities, starting with a reception bonfire complete with delicious local foods and camping, live bluegrass music, and a bottle share. The following day begins with breakfast and a round of Disc Golf.

Starting at noon, the brewers will gather to share their Sour and Wild creations with a limited group of 800 craft beer enthusiasts for one of the most exciting events on the central coast.

The main event is Saturday, September 23rd and will host well over 50 rare sour and wild beers from breweries as far away as Montreal, Canada. With limited tickets available, the goal is short lines with plenty

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS of beer for eve- ryone to enjoy. Local food purveyors will showcase their delicious flavors and unlike other events; a healthy portion of food is included with each ticket. Also expected at the event will be live music from BarrelHouse’s amphitheater as well as outdoor games, photobooth, tums stations, plenty of shade, and more!

BarrelHouse Brewing Company is located on 3055 Limestone Way in Paso Robles.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 24 Heirloom Tomato Festival 2 PM - 6 PM

Taste 40+ varieties & local bites.

FarmTours & Fun for the whole family! Windrose Farm 5750 El Pharo Dr, in Paso Robles

Heirloom Tomato Fest Dinner with Chef Julie Simon 5 PM - 8 PM Join us as we celebrate all things TOMATO and more as Chef Julie Simon works her magic here on the farm.

Windrose Farm 5750 El Pharo Dr, in Paso Robles

Yoga Brunch 8:30 AM - 11:30 AM Join us for balance, bubbles, and brunch on Sunday, September 24th in the intimate setting our Frenchinspired Abbey.

VINO Central Coast Edition

Experience the serenity of moving meditation during our 60-minute yoga session led by Wellness Counselor and Yoga Retreat Leader, Lauren Shannon, followed by beautifully crafted mimosas and a delectable brunch masterfully prepared by Cello Ristorante & Bar! $45 per person Reserve today: 1-805-369-2500 or See the Concierge Spots are extremely limited 8:30 AM - Check-in 8:45 AM - Yoga Session 10:00 AM - Brunch

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 1

Lifewater BBQ Fundraiser & Auction 4 PM - 8 PM Join us for the second annual Lifewater BBQ Fundraiser & Auction.

Enjoy an evening of barbeque, craft beer, live music, a silent and live auc- tion and the opportunity to change lives forever. All proceeds will help bring safe water to vulnerable children and families in Africa and Asia.

Barelhouse Brewing Company is located on 3055 Limestone Way in Paso Robles. For more information vista give.lifewater.org.

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 6

"Winemaker's Vineyard Hayride" by Rising Moon Sunset Series 6 PM - 9 PM

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Join us for a "Winemaker's Vineyard Hayride" chaperoned, during sunset, by Jim Jacobsen (Doce Robles Win- ery's owner/farmer/vintner.) We will be pouring plenty of wine, so invite your friends and family to enjoy some of the most BEAUTIFUL sunset views! Entertainment starts at 6 pm. Doce Robles wines and local food by The Micro BBQ Catering Co. available for purchase. At the evening's end, we showcase a warming fire for toasting s'mores under the full moon.

This year's "Rising Moon Sunset Series" is celebrating Doce Robles Vine- yard's TWENTIETH Anniversary, and we want to share the view, company, & beautiful ambiance with you!

"Come join the fun and enjoy beautiful 360° vineyard views as we take in the sunset with wine and friends on the Doce Robles estate. Centered around the full moon, our “Rising Moon Sunset Series” parties are the per- fect way to unwind and relax in the heart of Paso Robles wine country on the beautiful Route 46 West. " Tucked off of the 46 West in the Templeton Gap Region, the property re- ceives a cool, coastal wind aptly named the "Templeton Gap Breeze." It's how we can sit outside and enjoy each other's company and a glass of wine at 6 pm after the heat of the day.

And if you can't make it this time, be sure to stop by anytime for a glass and to toast Jimmy & Maribeth on their 20 years on the estate.

Doce Robles Winery is located at 2023 Twelve Oaks Drive in Paso Robles.

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Downtown Paso Robles Arroyo Robles Pianetta

Bodegas Paso Robles 13th St

Parrish Family

Lusso Della Terra

Rabbit Hole Grizzly Republic Chateau Lettau

Herman Story

Frolicking Frog

12th St

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Caparone

Starr Ranch

Derby Wine Estates

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Carmody McKnight Tablas Creek

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Rangeland

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Hearst Ranch Winery

Poalillo

Thacher

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Brecon Brochelle

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Moonstone Cellars

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Black Hand Cellars

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Anglim D’Anbino

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Jack Creek

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Epoch Rocky Creek

Highway 46 West

Harmony Cellars

Sextant Niner Grey Wolf Midnight Cellars & Dark Star Summer Silver Horse Tooth & Nail Wood Zenadia Paso Port 4 Lanterns Aron Hill Castoro Peachy Donati Family Canyon J Dusi Zin Alley Hunt Croad Cellars Cypher

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Broken Earth & Vantage

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Sarzotti Pomar Junction

V ineyard Dr

Bella Luna T em plet o n R d T

Wild Horse

El Pomar Dr Hansen Hidden Burbank Oak Ranch

Cri ppl e Creek Rd

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Still Waters

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Penm Springs Rd an

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Brian Benson Onx Field Recordings Clos Selene

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San Antonio

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Tower Rd

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Mustard Creek

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San Marcos Creek

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Christian Lazo

Tackitt Family

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Villa San-Juliette

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Loma Linda August Ridge

B&E GreMark

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Nichols Ruby Cellars

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Tasting Notes

IN THE NEWS

with Stan Angel

Tasting Room Etiquette

F

or many people, the way to act or the expectations when visiting a wine tasting room is a mystery. Are there rules? What are those rules? I don’t want to look like an unrefined person. It is human nature to want to appear like you know how to act in any situation.

For many of us living in wine country, experience has been the best teacher.

For the rest, I offer this simple column to make you feel comfortable and to better enjoy your tasting room experience.

First, the tasting room can be a learning experience provided you do two things; be open minded to new wines, expand your horizons and maybe step out of your comfort zone and try something new — you may be surprised.

A cabernet at one winery may be a whole different wine at another. On a personal note, when my wife started wine tasting with me she was drawn to white wines on the sweeter side. Her previous experience said she did not like big, bold reds. Then I showed her the beauty of a fruit forward zinfandel.

Now, she is more into red wines on the drier side, then whites. Second, this is a learning experience, not a teaching opportunity to impress someone with your knowledge of wine. In short, nobody likes a wine snob, be open to learning from your server.

Speaking of servers, a few things to

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Continued September/October 2017 on page 40

Halter Ranch Wins Winery of the Year at the Central Coast Wine Competition The Central Coast Wine Competition at the California Mid-State Fair announced on July 21 that Halter Ranch Vineyards & Winery is the 2017 Winery of the Year. The award was presented at Wine Night at Mission Square, before the Zach Brown Band concert during the fair.

“We couldn’t be more proud to win this award from this terrific competition that takes place right here in the Paso Robles community,” said Skylar Stuck, Halter Ranch’s general manager. “This is truly a team win, and a culmination of all the hard work and long hours we devote to producing elegant, complex and approachable wines from our Adelaida District vineyards and winery.”

Of the 12 wines Halter Ranch entered, nine were awarded Gold Medals, two were awarded Silver Medals and one received a Bronze Medal from the panel of 19 expert judges during the blind-tasting competition, held June 20-21.

Four of Halter Ranch’s nine Gold Medal-winning wines went on to win Best in Class, including Best Grenache Blanc (2016 Grenache Blanc), Best Malbec (2014 Malbec), Best Tempranillo (2014 Tempranillo) and Best Rosé From Any Blend (2016 Rosé).

Based on the weighted points given to each medal and Best In Class win, Halter Ranch was the clear winner in a very competitive field of wineries big and small, noted CCWC returning Chief Judge Tim McDonald.

The 19 judges this year included Matt Kettmann of Wine Enthusiast magazine, Mary Orlin of the San Jose Mercury News, author Patrick Comiskey, of Wine & Spirits, and Jim Blumling, group vice president of wine, beer & spirits at Albertsons/Safeway. For a complete list of judges, please visit CentralCoastWineComp.com.

The two-day competition took place at Estrella Hall at the California MidState Fair. On the first day, judges blind-tasted through nearly 700 wine submissions, rating and then voting on which to award a Gold Medal and Best in Class honor. The following day, the 67 Best in Class wines were blind tasted again and awarded best Red, White, Rosé, Sparkling and Dessert.

Only after the awards were the producers revealed.

Best in Show went to Broken Earth Winery’s 2015 Grenache; The Best White Wine was awarded to Eberle Winery’s 2016 Muscat Canelli; Best Pink Wine went to Kitá Wines’ 2016 Grenache Rosé; Best Sparkling Wine was awarded to Laetitia Vineyard & Winery’s 2014 Brut Cuvée; and Best Dessert Wine was awarded to Glunz Family Winery’s Mission Angelica.

The complete list of Gold, Silver and Bronze medals, as well Best In Class winners, is available on CentralCoastWineComp.com.

“I’m excited to say that this, the 15th Annual CCWC has been the best yet, in both our judging panel and the quality of the submissions,” said Mike Bradley, CEO of the California Mid-State Fair. “As we in the Central Coast know, some of the world’s best wines are being grown and produced right here in our proverbial backyard. Our goal is to celebrate and shine a global spotlight on these agricultural artisans. We can’t wait to see what the next 15 years brings to this Competition.”

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Vintage 1255

San Luis Obispo San Luis Wine Bar Meze

CC Wines 101 LAGUNA LAKE PARK

Cerro Caliente Cellars

Stephen Ross Winery

Filipponi Ranch

Refugio Ranch Vineyards

Tolosa Winery

Kelsey See Canyon Vineyards

True Myth Saucelito Baileyana Canyon Tangent Autry Biddle Ranch Trenza Cellars Vineyard Cadre Edna Valley Zocker Vineyards Wolff Vineyard Piedra Creek Chamisal Vineyards

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Sextant Claiborne & Churchill

Kynsi Vineyards

Culton Wine Co. Alapay Cellars Sinor-Lavallee Avila Wine & Peloton Roasting

Avila Beach

Port San Luis

Talley Vineyards Bishops Peak 101

Shell Beach

Center of Effort Wine

Sans Liege Taste of the Valleys

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Grover Beach Grover City

Phantom Rivers

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Laetitia Vineyard

Halcyon 101

PISMO DUNES NATURAL PRESERVE

South San Luis Obispo County Winery Map

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Come stay with us in Paso Robles Wine Country

Come as a friend, leave as family!

RIO SECO is a gathering place for fine wine and friendly people

Reasonably Priced • Walking Distance to the Paso Robles Event Center • Family Owned & Operated for over 50 Years

1215 Ysabel Avenue at HWY 101 and 46 East (805) 238-2770 or (800) 549-PASO (7276) adelaideinn.com

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September/October 2017

Mention this ad for a complimentary tasting for two

4295 Union Road, Paso Robles — (805) 237-8884 Open Daily: 11-5pm www.riosecowine.com

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BERRY HILL BISTRO

Contemporary Comfort Food | Full bar | Extensive Wine List

1114 Pine Street, Downtown Paso Robles (805) 238-3929 Open all day 11:00 - 9:00 daily, Lunch & Dinner

Hit the trail for a personal, uncrowded, true wine country experience. Speak to the owner or winemaker in an intimate, unhurried atmosphere.

Make the Creston Wine Trail your weekend destination.

Visit us on First Fridays for special pourings and pairings.

CrestonWineTrail.com VINO Central Coast Edition

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September/October 2017

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FEATURED LODGING

A little slice of Tuscany in Paso Robles Sundance B&B’s trifecta of gourmet cuisine, gorgeous views and fabulous luxury

By Beth Giuffre OF VINO MAGAZINE

L

e Cordon Bleu-trained chef and host Alma AyĂłn prepares a three-course breakfast for her guests each morning at Sundance Bed & Breakfast. In the Sundance dining room or out on the patio, overlooking the estate vineyard, foodies and wine lovers might enjoy something from the daily changing menu: maybe a grilled pear with raspberry coulis topped with Vanilla Mascarpone Cream and sliced almonds, or a savory waffle made with four Italian cheeses topped with Norwegian Smoked Salmon served with a poached egg in lemon beurre blanc, always served with pastries: perhaps perfectly warmed cranberry-orange scones or

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gooey sticky buns with French Roast coffee.

“Owning and running a B&B has been a decade’s long dream,” said Ayón, who visited Paso Robles for the very first time in 2011 for her and her husband’s 20th wedding anniversary.

She is an Emmy Award winner, and has already had a successful career as an executive producer of live musical events like the Grammys, variety shows and commercials – mostly for Spanish TV networks.

Four months after visiting the wine region, she and her husband, who works in IT, bought Sundance in it’s bare bones, and turned it into an Italian villa that rivals the likes of Firenze and Lucca.

“I didn’t need to look any further,” Ayón said.

Ayón was born in Mexico, but grew up in the Los Angeles area. The couple has two grown daughters who live in San Francisco.

“We fell in love with this town and its people,” she said.

“Sundance had to exist here for me.”

Sundance is a Tuscan villa-style building under the Paso Robles sun, with three individually themed suites, up colorful patterned hand painted tile staircase, totalling four bedrooms, all have been decorated by Ayón. The Premier suite, or Honeymoon Suite, named ‘La Dolce Vita,’ the romantic Italian-themed room, with a tall, custom-built, hand-tufted California King bed. Out the three large windows is a view of the house garden, the vineyards and Paso’s rolling hills, and in the enormous bathroom is a jacuzzi tub fit for two people.

The 50/50 Suite was designed to be booked for two in the British Manor-themed ‘Empire Room’, or opened up as a two-bedroom suite with the walk-through bathroom leading to the ‘Las Puertas al Sol’ Spanish-themed room.

Ayón designed the ‘Le Reve’ room for her daughter’s visits, a charming, quite feminine, French-styled room, with an elegant framed panel queen bed.

Guest who stay at Sundance have the weekly option of a Saturday night private multi-course dinner with wine pairing in the formal dining room, which has the feel of Continued on page 44

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organics Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner!

Let us surprise and delight you with the best that the region has to offer.

1313 Park Street, Paso Robles 805.226.5888 · thomashillorganics.com Visit us at our other location! 858 Monterey Street, San Luis Obispo 805.457.1616

TREAT YOURSELF TO AN INDULGENT EXPERIENCE OF OLIVE OIL AND VINEGAR TASTING. REJUVENATE WITH NATURE BY WALKING THROUGH THE OLIVE ORCHARD

EXPERIENCE FIRST HAND THE PROCESS BEHIND MAKING OLIVE OIL, AND VISIT OUR MOBILE OLIVE MILL

ENHANCE YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND PALATE WITH OUR UNIQUE OLIVE OILS OFFERING AN ARRANGE OF OLIVE OIL BODY PRODUCTS

TASTING ROOM OPEN SATURDAY & SUNDAY FROM 10AM-4:30PM, WEEKDAY TASTINGS BY APPOINTMENT

2985 Templeton Rd. • Templeton,Ca, 93465 • 805-610-2258 • www.OleaFarm.com 38

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FEATURED BREWERY

Tap It Brewing Co.

By Connor Allen OF VINO MAGAZINE

T

ucked away in a small, up-and-coming industrial district is one of San Luis Obispo’s urban hidden gems. Tap It Brewing Company, owned and operated by the father and son duo, John and Miles Gordon, has made some of the most acclaimed craft beers in California over the past few years and has the awards to show for it.

Their Indian Pale Ale, more commonly known as the IPA, is their longest standing and most popular beer. In 2012, the IPA won the top spot at the Great American Beer Festival and has been a staple in almost every grocery store from San Francisco down to San Diego ever since.

While many breweries would be happy to have a single beer of that caliber, the brewers at Tap it continue to evolve and adapt. Tap It Brewery just celebrated its seven year anniversary, one of the company’s most successful years yet.

At the 2017 San Diego International Beer Competition, Tap It took home the bronze with one of its newest flagship beers, the Tropicali Dank IPA, and also took home the silver for their Pale Ale. If dominating the San Diego International Beer Competition wasn't enough, their new unfiltered, unaged, lager, the Helles Bueno, also took home the silver at the California State Fair earlier this year.

If great beer wasn't enough to make locals fall Continued on page 41

VINO Central Coast Edition

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Continued from page 32

Continued from page 13

note. I have been in many tasting rooms and I would say that 99 percent of the time I am waited on by someone who is an enthusiast, open to sharing their knowledge, and personable. They have taken the time to learn about the wines they serve and are anxious to tell you about them. These folks are not in it for the money. In most cases they are paid a very low wage so, if you get service like I so often do, a few dollars as a tip will be appreciated more than you can imagine. Also, be patient and understanding of their individual situation. Of course, they like nothing better than talking about wine and answering your questions and serving you. However, be cognizant of the situation. If your server is working the room alone and has 10 or more patrons, be patient and understanding that he may not have a lot of time to talk and you may have to wait a short time between tastes.

The tasting room is not a bar. Some wine bars are tasting rooms but for the most part the tasting room is not a bar. The scourge of the winery tasting room is the person that has had too much to drink so watch your intake, your behavior (most of these rooms are small and a loud person can be overly obnoxious) and use the dump bucket. You won’t hurt anyone’s feelings if you take a taste and dump the remainder either because you don’t like the wine or want to pace yourself with regards to the amount you drink.

Usually, a list is set up for the tasting room for the day.

Wines begin with whites moving to reds and finishing up with dessert wines. In between the types of wine your server may offer you a rinse. This will be a small amount of wine to rinse your glass, don’t drink it, simply swirl to clear your glass and pour into the dump bucket. While tasting rooms plan their day around a list of wines for their patrons you can certainly ask if they have a wine open not on the list. If they don’t, be gracious but many times if the host finds you enjoy a hearty red, he may have something open for you to sample.

Many tasting rooms charge for tasting. This serves the purpose of avoiding anyone just wanting free wine, with no intention of purchasing. If you wish, you may share one glass and share your tasting. Most tasting rooms will waive the tasting fee with a purchase of wine. With that said, you will offend no one if you leave and do not make a purchase.

As wine is a delight for the palate, it is just as pleasurable to the sense of scent. All of us know that wine is an olfactory so please if you must wear cologne or perfume, wear it lightly or not at all. The people tasting wine around you will thank you.

It comes down to this, the golden rule, do unto others ….particularly those lovely folks pouring wine for you at the tasting room.

Golden State, on a camera his father bought during the Vietnam War. Schmitt would later go on multiple tours based from Naval Station Leemore and a couple tours at the Fallon Naval Station in Nevada, where TOPGUN is located. Much of his work in the Navy was in the Middle East.

There’s a certain amount of stoicism that comes with being a Navy pilot. You’d better not boast like Maverick.

Schmitt is humble about his time about his two tours as a TOPGUN pilot, but you can’t help but imagine him doing the Iceman bite scene with a cork between his teeth.

Victoria Schmitt liked the “stable,” tactical side of Hal. She was finishing up a Photography and Graphic Design degree at Cal Poly when she met him. He was on his second tour at TOPGUN, but also making wine, another delight they had in common.

“She was absolutely the right person for me coming out of the Navy,” said Schmitt. “She comes from a radically different background from me.”

Victoria’s father is the drummer for Supertramp.

Victoria Schmitt runs the West Coast quality control, sales and marketing for Volatus. In 2007, the Schmitt bought the Lepp Institute of Digital Imaging, a photography school she was managing in Los Osos, and the couple has been teaching clients photographic techniques ever since. Hal didn’t even own a camera at the time he purchased the school, but, like winemaking, rolled up his pant legs to stomp grapes, becoming proficient in no time, and decided to put his TOPGUN instructor techniques into teaching photography classes.

As a winemaker, Schmitt will continue to enjoy the process.

“Yes, it’s a business, but it should be fun,” he said. “I really believe more than anything that wine is made for drinking, and it should be a social experience. Yes, you can drink on your own, but it’s better when you have family and friends around. That’s how we approach everything.”

By “everything,” he might have meant the winemaking, or the piloting, or the cooking, or maybe even fatherhood.

But whatever the project may be, Schmitt takes it to Volatus.

Open Daily by Appointment Located just 2.3 miles from Mission San Miguel

950 Indian Dune Road San Miguel, CA 93451

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September/October 2017

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Continued from page 39

in love with this brewery, then the bar and patio area surely will. The patio is decorated with old broken down cars filled with succulents and the furniture is perfectly positioned for the ideal selfie or romantic couple picture.

The air is filled with the unmistakeable aroma of beer in its infancy, as everything Tap It sells is made in house. The patio is filled with games like giant Jenga and corn hole and on Wednesday nights the brewery hosts an adult trivia night they call “geeks who drink” that’s doesn't stay within the boundaries of a traditional trivia night. If great beer and great atmosphere still wasn't enough, Tap It is completely dog-friendly. That’s right, you can bring your best friend with you, enjoy a beer, and have a puppy play date all at once.

Tap It continues to grow in popularity and size, but they haven't forgotten what has made them who they are. Miles Gordon started off at home brewing craft beers, and while they now have eight giant fermenters and four bright tanks, they still have their initial home brewing setup in the warehouse where they test out new pilot batches from time to time. Beer enthusiasts will remember the recent New England Style IPA craze that took over the nation, and will be happy to know that Tap It produced not one, but three different IPA’s.

Tap It currently distributes all throughout California and into parts of Arizona and Nevada, but it shouldn't be long until they are known nationwide. Next time you are looking to grab a beer in San Luis Obispo make sure to consider stopping at 675 Clarion Court and grabbing one of their eight beers on tap.

VINO Central Coast Edition

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Continued from page 19

“price of admission” and that the only influence we had over the menu was whether or not we were allergic to anything or had a dislike for any particular food “type” ie. fish or meat — I was a little taken aback.

Yet with a TripAdvisor profile like the one I saw and my ever thirsty craving for adventure, I had no choice but to jump in and enjoy the ride. For the following two hours our party of five was served “family style” and delightfully presented with some of the freshest meats, fish and “made from scratch” desserts with a deeply influenced Andalucian style that will satisfy any foodie’s cravings to the core. A bell would ring across the plaza and dish after dish would emerge from the ancient building across the busy cobblestoned street to be presented before rows of tables nestled under the trees in the historic plaza.

One group of diners was there for the tenth time, having driven hours to get there and stated unequivocally that this was their “go to” dining experience for any special occasion. Upon savoring the very last bite of a chocolate rum cake, freshly baked by the owner himself, I knew that

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if I didn’t live on the other side of the globe I would do the same.

And finally, if you are lucky enough to have a place with a kitchen and get tired of eating out all the time, there is one grocery store that I can’t recommend highly enough which one can find in every little town across Spain, the Mercadona. It’s easy to navigate, even without a working knowledge of the language, and being that the diet in Spain is relatively simple, with some cooking skills of your own one can easily replicate any meal — other than Casa Maria — that you had at any given local establishment. Everything and anything on the Spanish menu is on full display, including an entire counter dedicated to every quality level of Iberian ham and a fish market with fresh sardines, snapper and netted bags of mussels resting on piles of crushed ice. Just a little side note, you won’t find the eggs in the refrigerator section, but down an aisle next to the boxed milk, which is not typically refrigerated either. Who knew? But like they say, “travel expands the mind” and the palate as well.

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Continued from page 27

(even before Metzger’s arrival), changed her mind about liking lentils.

“I could eat 20 of them,” she said.

The soft corn tacos are layered beluga lentils and a carrot ginger purée, candied jalapeños, cashews, pickled watermelon, coconut cream and cilantro. The dish satisfies the vegan guests and Thomas said the chef is happy make dairy free or gluten free dishes. He can make his trademark short rib sandwich (a staple from his 4140 days) with gluten free bread.

“I’ve never met a chef as personable at Kurt. It’s not about him. He’s brought the level up with the food. He’s a people pleaser, which is very unusual for a chef,” Thomas said of the chef who wears colorful socks with his clogs.

Thomas, who used to work in sales and marketing for Adidas, has seen some changes in chefs since she started her restaurant that came out of her own organic farm and CSA. Her restaurant has evolved into a relaxed, elegant restaurant staple in Paso Robles, with a devoted winemaker and industry following, and destination spot for visitors.

Both Thomas and Metzger have similar stories of moving to Paso Robles from the Los Angeles area.

Thomas said the Paso community was so friendly, it made her want to move to the area, and she quickly began having progressive parties and get together with her neighborhood of six sprawled out houses. Metzger, who will live in the area until his wife retires from her university hospital physical therapy job in San Diego, said he was sitting in the jacuzzi when his new neighbor tapped on his fence bearing margaritas. He said when he lived in San Diego, for five years he would walk his Scottish Terrier out in the neighborhood, but knew none of his neighbors.

“I’ve found these people to be amazing,” Metzger said.

“In just these few short weeks people are talking to me on the street. They’re polite. They’re wholesome, honest.”

Metzger would not be serving a short rib with mashed potatoes because it tastes too similar. He wants the food to be a sensory experience, which includes the pairings of the many local Paso wines on the menu.

“I want you to explore every time you stick your fork onto a plate,” he said.

Chef’s short rib did not need to be served with a knife.

The featured entree of the evening was one of Metzger’s claims to fame from the San Luis Obispo restaurant, a 14-hour, local 805 Beer Braised Short Rib in pan jus was served with herb confit marble potatoes, a pea shoot salad in extra virgin olive oil from Olea Farms in Templeton. The pasture-raised beef is sourced from Painted Hills Beef in Oregon, with no antibiotics and no added hormones. It melts in your mouth, letting the natural juices from the short rib and the oil from the garlic naturally flavor the dish.

“A lot of kitchens will braise in wine,” Metzger said. “I didn’t want that heavy richness of the wine. I want you to VINO Central Coast Edition

have wine in your glass. The beer is kind of like a sponge, it just absorbs everything. You want those juices to stay in the meat.”

Metzger’s managed to rekindle his passion for sustainable, organic ingredients and Thomas Hill’s mission is much like Kitchen 4140 with the farm-to-table concept. Not all restaurants are willing to pay the extra money and put in the legwork involved in working with local purveyors of fruits, vegetables, grass fed beef, fresh fish and artisan-crafted breads, but Metzger said the dedication is worth it.

“It’s a lot easier for restaurants to pick up the phone and put an order in,” he said, but he loves to talk to the butchers at Painted Hill beef. He likes the fact that because the restaurant doesn’t even own a freezer, that produce needs to be rotated in a constant flow.

“It’s a lot of fun to have product coming in from the back door every single day. Not walking through a huge walk-in trying to figure out what to do with things,” Metzger said. “A lot of what we do here is ingredientdriven. It’s about what we’re getting at the markets.

We just love playing with it. The whole kitchen diving in at one time. In my opinion, when you use just-picked vegetables and good meats you can taste the difference.

You don’t really need to do much to the food to make it amazing.”

When Metzger saw that Thomas needed a chef, he said he couldn’t pass up the opportunity. He wanted to live in wine country and after visiting Thomas’ European style kitchen and real wood burning oven, it reminded him of his love for New York. The decor of the Thomas Hill Organics SLO restaurant is modeled after ABC kitchen in New York, with a fresh white interior and open space feel, three-inch wood slat floors, and accordionlike Nano doors.

Though the restaurants bring in influences from all over the world, Metzger said he’s glad to be living in a place where he can find a varied selection of organic, local food.

“The only thing I miss is the 72 degree weather in San Diego,” he said. “In Paso, with the vineyards and the farmers, and everything that surrounds this place, it’s just amazing. I love walking out the door and being on a farm someplace. It’s incredible.”

Incredible indeed, and meant to be.

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Continued from page 37

an elegant bistro. Ayón’s guests rarely turn down her offer to cook for them as soon as they catch the scents of her kitchen, but in case guests are only staying midweek, she offers a daily Sundance Social Hour between five and six p.m., serving their favorite red, white, rosé Central Coast wines with cheese.

“I love what I do,” Ayón said. “I love to cook. I love to create, and I love to communicate through food. To top it off, we can pair all that with amazing wine – Central Coast wine!”

When she and her husband lived in Studio City, they were big into wine, and even started a wine club with friends and neighbors.

Ayón has been in love with food and cooking since she was young, growing up in a Mexican town by the sea.

Both her parents cooked things like baby octopus and shrimp, as seafood was one of the staples she was used to.

“Food is a big thing for us in our family,” she said. Both her brother and sister and mother live down south. “We always get together and usually we’re in the kitchen.

Prepping and cooking and gossiping…My mother is 83 and she still cooks every day. She even cooks for other people. So it kind of runs in the family.”

Owning a B&B had been her dream for a long time.

Neil Tootill (who lists owner/busboy on his Sundance business card) who takes care of the estate winery part of the property, selling the grapes to local vineyards, is Ayón’s biggest fan. He said he and his wife always stayed at B&Bs when travelling the world, at her request. He wasn’t sure about owning one, however, and tried to dissuade her. But Ayón had already been researching the gorgeous villa on top of the hill.

As they both took to the area, wine tasting and dining in Paso’s best restaurants, they both fell in love with the area and the people who lived there. Tootill couldn’t resist the idea at that point, even though the Sundance building needed some construction help. The former owner had been very fond of concrete according to Ayón, and she and her husband had to create a whole new landscape on the tree-deprived lot. One day, Tootill would like to make his own wine.

“When she used to do television she was just amazing, just this tiny little woman…” Tootill said, as he saw his wife walking through the patio in her black chef’s coat.

“I heard ‘tiny little woman!’” Ayón called across the courtyard. “Don’t ever underestimate a tiny, little woman!” joked Ayón, as she flirted with her husband, who very clearly was enamored with her, and took the time to describe how well she managed huge musical events, like ‘Fiesta Broadway’ in L.A. “They’re all just hanging off her every word,” said Toothill, saying everyone had such respect for his darling, ambitious wife.

“She is something. She’s cool and calm throughout it all.”

Ayón likes the adrenaline involved in running big operations, and the creative side of putting her cheffing abilities to work, in unison with her years of producing events, may be the perfect pairing for guests lucky 44

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Photo by Luke Phillips

Neil Tootill motions to his vineyard. He presently sells the grapes to local wineries, but hopes to make his own wine one day.

Photo by Luke Phillips

Alma Ayón, chef and owner of Sundance B&B in Paso Robles.

enough to secure a reservation at Sundance.

But Ayón was willing to set the Music Production career aside to bring her cooking to the next level. She enrolled in Le Cordon Bleu to learn the French Technique, graduated with Honors, and soon was interning with Master Chef Michael Cimarusti at Providence in Los Angeles. She then went on to open famous boutique coffee shop LAMILL Coffee in Los Angeles as well as working with Wolfgang Puck Catering in Hollywood.

This culinary layers were steps in Ayón’s plan to own her own B&B in Paso Robles.

“Living in Paso Robles has given me the opportunity to create dishes using organic produce from local farmers and farmer’s markets – a chef’s paradise!” said Ayón.

Her three-course breakfast reflects a global influence, especially from some of her favorite parts of the world: Mexico, France, Italy, and Spain, though, she admits Japanese food is her favorite type of cuisine.

Her dream came true, and she and her husband hope you come and visit for gourmet cuisine, gorgeous views of Paso Robles, and an escape into luxury.

The Sundance Bed and Breakfast is located at 7735 Sundance Trail, Paso Robles. For more information, visit sundancebandb.com.

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Fall Show

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner OPEN DAILY 7:00 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

#NotYourAverageExpo

Offering group and private classes utilizing the Pilates Reformer, Chair and Trap Table.

We are all highly certified, trained Pilates professionals with years of teaching experience.

Nothing changes your body like PILATES!

S U N D aY

Giveaways Champagne & Wine Food & Fun Free Admission Enter to win big at the 3:30 pm to 6:30 pm Money Booth At the Pavilion on the Lake

OVER 25 classes each week!

Oct. 1, 2017

Established studio (10 years!) with Pilates apparatus & mat classes 5815 Traffic Way, Atascadero | 805.466.9642 | NorthCountyPilates.com

Ultimate Comfort DefiHotel! ned Paso’s Newest 90 Room Ultimate Comfort Deened Center Fitness Fitness Center Fitness Center Dog Friendly Friendly Dog Dog Friendly Free High-Speed WiFi Free High-SpeedWiFi WiFi Free High-Speed Heated Outdoor Pool Outdoor Pool&&SpaSpa HeatedHeated Outdoor MeetingPool Room & Spa Meeting Room Meeting Room EV Charging Stations EV Charging Stations EV Charging BusinessStations Center Business Complimentary HotCenter Breakfast Buffet Business Center

Complimentary Hot Breakfast Buffet 3000 Riverside Avenue • Paso Robles, CA 93446 • (805) 237-8700 • www.PasoOaks.com VINO Central Coast Edition

3000 riverside avenue, paso robles ca RESERVATIONS (805) 237-8700

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DISTRIBUTION 15,000 copies Distributed at key hot spots from Sonoma to Orange County including but not limited to...

Airports: Oakland International Airport Sonoma County Airport Monterey Regional Airport Paso Robles Airport Burbank/Bob Hope Airport John Wayne Intnl. Airport

ADVERTISING RATES Per issue or full-year commitment

1x 6x 1/12 $149 $99 1/8 $179 $139 1/4 $279 $239 1/2 $499 $429 Full $849 $729 Premium Full Page

$1,249 $949

(Inside Front, Page 3, Inside Back)

Visitor Centers:

Pismo Beach Atascadero Paso Robles Morro Bay King City Aptos

Back Cover

Premium Half Page (On Index Pages)

Hotels in: Santa Barbara, Bakersfield, San Luis Obispo, Paso Robles, Atascadero, King City, Watsonville, Aptos, Pismo Beach

Wineries: SLO County

September/October 2017

$699 $649

Distribution Dates: January 10th March 10th May 10th July 10th September 10th November 10th

Advertising deadline 3 weeks prior to publication.

Distribution dates are approximate.

Call us to be a distributor 805.466.2585 or 805.237.6060

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Call Your Sales Executive Today Atascadero 805.466.2585 Paso Robles 805.237.6060

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A FAMILY OF WINES

94 Points

2015 Mooney Family Pinot Noir Boekenoogen Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands –Wine Enthusiast, June 2017

94 Points & Editor’s Choice 2014 Mooney Family Pinot Noir –Wine Enthusiast November 2016

94 Points

2010 Chateau Margene Beau Mélange –Wine Enthusiast June 2015

93 Points

2012 Chateau Margene CASK 7 –Wine Enthusiast, December 2015

93 Points

2015 Mooney Family Pinot Noir Tondre Grapefield, Santa Lucia Highlands –Wine Enthusiast, June 2017

94 Points & Editor’s Choice 2012 Chateau Margene CASK 4 –Wine Enthusiast, April 2015

94 Points & Editor’s Choice

Gold Medal – Best in Class

2013 El Pistolero Pinot Noir –Wine Enthusiast, December 2015

Roxo Port Cellars 2012 Negrette –2016 Sunset Int’l Wine Competition

93 Points

93 Points

2013 Mooney Family Pinot Noir – Wine Spectator, June 2015

2012 Mooney Family Pinot Noir – Wine Enthusiast, December 2014

Double Gold Medal

El Pistolero 2015 Chardonnay “Cold Steel” –2016 International Chardonnay Symposium

Creston

TWO LOCATIONS

Friday thru Monday 11:00 am to 5:00 pm Luxury Flight & Roxo Port Flight 4385 La Panza Road, Creston, CA 93432 805 238-2321 48

September/October 2017

Morro Bay

Daily from Noon to 7:00 pm Standard Flight & Luxury Flight 845 Embarcadero Road, Morro Bay, CA 93442 805-225-1235

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