Lei - 1

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Hawai‘i for t H e LGB t trave L er

Culture: t he Mele of Mahu and ‘ a ikane

l ifesyle: t hree Men & t he s ea

l ove: Matri M onies in Paradise

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B lei culture / lifestyle L eicu L ture.com

Lei are the traditional Hawaiian symbol of love, friendship, appreciation, and aloha.

For generations, the people of Hawai‘i have used lei to express these emotions, strengthen relationships, and give thanks. Lei is an annual travel publication that welcomes, entertains, and gives thanks to Hawai‘i travelers before, during, and after their journeys.

1 lei culture / lifestyle

ta B le of C ontents

4 lei Culture t he Mele of l ove 16 t he a rt of f eathers 22 Chinatown’s s ordid Past 24 l ei’d in Paradise 28 Lifestyle t he Men & the s ea 30 t own: Moloka‘i 38 Country: l ana‘i 42 Arts a rtist: Bradley Ca P ello 44 Gallery: a ndrew r ose 48 Food t he Perfe C t Bites 50 t he Baker & But C her 56 h a h a h awaiian o r G ani C s 58 Fashion a lohawear Means h ello 60 d esi G ner: a ri s outh 64 e ssentials 66 the lu X ury of aloha 68 Love love is love 76 w eddin G r esour C es 82 Guide f ête 88 o ‘ahu 90 Maui / Moloka‘ i / l ana‘i 100 h awai‘i i sland 108 k aua‘i 120 Co MM unity r esour C es 126

Love is abounding in Hawai‘i. Read more wedding stories of couples married in the islands online at leiculture.com.

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we B site: lei C ulture. C o M

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w in a h awaiian i sland Creations P rize P a C k.

Follow us @leiculture on instagram by July 31, 2014 and one lucky winner will be chosen to win this prize pack from Hawaiian Island Creations. It includes a “Hawai‘i” hat, “aloha” rashguard, camouflage boardshort, backpack, and slippers. HIC was founded in Hawai‘i in 1971 by brothers Stephan and Jimmy Tsukayama. Today HIC has seven locations on the island of O‘ahu and one location on Maui. HIC continues to grow with Hawaii and with over 30 years of experience, HIC is still Hawai‘i’s finest surf shop. Enjoy the ride!

For more details on how to enter, visit leiculture.com.

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online

Hawai‘i is a special place. An amazingly beautiful, remote, and verdant chain of islands, it has, for more than two-and-a-half centuries, been a tiny melting pot for dozens of cultures, a destination for legends.

The Aloha State is enjoyed by the many in the LGBT community for its legendary beaches, fantastic hotels, bars, restaurants, and outdoor activities but sometimes gets overlooked in favor of destinations offering parties and festivals. Hawai‘i too offers its share of social activities and events and also a warm, welcoming community with a style and allure all its own.

I’m embarrassed to say that when I first landed in Hawai‘i in 2006, I had no idea what to expect. You’d think I would have known Honolulu was a vibrant metropolitan city set in an idyllic environment before I got there, but I didn’t. The result when I did arrive: I was blown away. The state’s capital, situated on the island of O‘ahu, has the feel of an international city, the beauty of a tropical island, and the safety and security we expect of any U.S. destination. The neighbor islands, where people tend to move at a less frenetic speed, are no less amazing in their culture and atmosphere. I always recommend people visit two or more islands on their first visit.

With features on gay-owned businesses, unique island fashions, outdoor activities, planning the perfect wedding, and much more, our goal with Lei is to educate and entertain our readers with the depth of culture and range of experiences available in Hawai‘i. We endeavor to share the local side of our island paradise—a side not often seen from afar and perhaps not even by those who have visited before.

We hope you enjoy this first issue of Lei. Come visit and experience Hawai‘i by yourself, with friends, and those you love. If you do, please share your experiences with us! We would love to hear.

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e ditor

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letters of aloha

Special message from Governor Neil Abercrombie

On behalf of the people of Hawai‘i, aloha and welcome to the readers of Lei.

Throughout the 50th State, there are many experiences that await your exploration. From sandy beaches and lush rainforests to fiery lava flows, visitors have a range of options as they set out to discover our islands’ unsurpassed natural beauty. This variety comes alive in charming small towns and exciting resort areas that offer visitors an array of experiences from cultural activities, to shopping and sightseeing, to world-class dining.

But what truly makes our islands special is the “Aloha Spirit,” embodied in our people. It is a philosophy of sharing and taking care of one another and the environment, which permeates daily life. This spirit is also the sense that our diversity defines us rather than divides us, an aspect of our local culture that we are now further able to celebrate with the recent enactment of the Hawai‘i Marriage Equality Act of 2013.

In Hawai‘i, we believe in fairness, justice, and human equality. We value every member of our ‘ohana (family), and it is in this spirit that we welcome all of you to join us in paradise.

With warmest regards,

Message from the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority

On behalf of the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority, the state’s tourism agency, I would like to extend a warm aloha to each and every one of you and invite you to experience firsthand what makes the Hawaiian Islands so special. Hawai‘i is home to an array of diverse cultures, customs and ethnicities, and is known as a place of mutual respect and aloha for all.

The recent passage of same-sex marriage in our state makes the Hawaiian Islands an ideal location to get married, with our beautiful beaches, natural beauty, and rich culture and history.

Our unique destination also offers a variety of experiences with six major islands—O‘ahu, Maui, Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i Island, Lana‘i and Moloka‘i. Each has its own unique personality and provides an opportunity to see different sides to Hawai‘i, and we hope you have the chance to visit them all.

We look forward to welcoming you to the Hawaiian Islands!

Aloha,

Tourism Authority

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aloha

a G e B y Ric Noyle

Aloha, welcome to our island paradise

“Aloha is the essence of relationships in which each person is important to every other person for collective existence.” - Hawai‘i’s treasured kupuna Auntie Pilahi Paki

iM

t he Mele of l ove

As victories continue to mount around the world for LGBT communities, in Hawai‘i, a future of gender and sexual equality is being envisioned by looking to the past.

t e X t B y Sonny Ganaden iM a G es B y Brad Ballesteros

The transcendence of Hawaiian language is famous. Beginning hula students are often surprised at the gorgeous nuances of sung Hawaiian: how a playful lyric of the sea has levels of meaning, how the choreography of a liquid rush can mean something else entirely in regard to human behavior. There are few simple definitions; the vagaries of the language continue to be interpreted and debated. For individuals who identify beyond western conceptions of heterosexual identity, there is some solace in the fact that same-sex cohabitation and individual identity have historical context. In the present Hawaiian dictionary, ‘aikane can be defined as an intimate friend of the same sex; a friend or companion of the same sex; or those who mutually give and receive presents of the same sex. Mahu is defined as homosexual, of either sex; hermaphrodite. These translated definitions, however, are useful only as a starting point, the lyrics of a mele (song) with deeper meaning.

In pre-contact Hawai‘i, sex and gender were integral in the dynamics of power as a component of a complex socio-political system in ways thoroughly different from modern western conceptions. Ali‘i, the highest of the ruling class, fiercely protected their bloodlines by taking ‘aikane lovers as a way to practice safe sex without the possibility of procreation. For maka‘ainana (the commoners) too, sex—including sex with same-sex partners—was also free from modern conceptions of monogamy. It was considered a part of a relationship but certainly not its defining characteristic. Mahu was accepted in Hawai‘i as it was throughout Polynesia, defined in part by what it was not: a demographic, a race, an excluded minority. These relationships were commonly honored in Hawaiian arts of song, dance, and chants, open to interpretation as songs of affection for either gender.

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h awai‘i i sland’s h alau o k ekuhi at t he Merrie Monar C h f estival.

What may be the most-often performed modern Hawaiian love song, Keali‘i Reichel’s “Kawaipunahele,” was a veiled dedication to his lover he called Puna, from whom he was separated:

Nou e Kawaipunahele

Ku‘u lei aloha mae ‘ole

For you Kawaipunahele

My never-fading lei Pili hemo‘ole, Never separated, Pili pa‘a pono Firmly united.

E huli ho‘i kaua Come, let’s go back.

E Kawaipunahele

Ku ‘oe me ke ki‘eki‘e

O Kawaipunahele.

You stand majestically

I ka nani a‘o Wailuku In the splendor of Wailuku.

Ku‘u ipo henoheno, My cherished sweetheart, Ku‘u wehi o ka po

My adornment of the night

E huli ho‘i kaua Come, let’s go back.

E Kawaipunhele

O Kawaipunahele

The missionaries who showed up in 1820 were not keen to the mele. Christian conceptions of heteronormative relationships are nothing new to those who grew up in the cultural spheres of America. Boston’s best Biblethumpers quickly got to dispelling all notions of ‘aikane, all shameless mahu, and a campaign to save souls throughout the archipelago was waged. Though the missionary zeal created the most literate populace on the planet at the time, it also introduced an imposed vocabulary of shame.

Fast-forward to the last several decades of LGBT visibility and activism in Hawai‘i, in which sex and gender equality advocates continue to contend with these competing histories of inequality. Numerous Polynesian communities have since become devout Christian practitioners. In 1993, the Hawai‘i Supreme Court decided for the first time in America that the prohibition of same-sex marriage was in violation of a state constitution. That decision was later compromised by the federal Defense of Marriage Act, which allowed states to refuse to recognize same-sex marriage licenses. Twenty years later, in 2013, the issues returned to Hawai‘i with Senate Bill 1, drafted to give full equitable rights to same-sex couples in marriage. When more than 4,000 individuals testified at the state legislature in October 2013, a firestorm of indigenous and introduced conceptions of romantic love ensued—a hot mess in Honolulu’s cool season. The bill passed and Hawai‘i joined 14 other states that recognize same-sex marriage.

The battle over marriage equality played out both on the steps of the capital and in the newspapers. Hinaleimoana Wong-Kalu, a cultural practitioner, hula instructor, and advocate for sexual equality, was one of several kumu (teachers) who came out in support of the measure. “Kanaka Maoli have been conditioned for so long to think and act like foreigners that we have allowed the meaning and intent of our words, traditions, and philosophies to be replaced by neo-Christian beliefs and used to further a Western political agenda on our islands,” she wrote in a letter to the Honolulu Star Advertiser. She further examines these ideas in Kumu Hina , a film that documents her journey as a transgender educator and cultural advocate.

Hina, along with her colleagues in the arts and academic cultural advocates, continue to unpack the evolving definitions of ‘aikane and mahu. Using mele of love from both indigenous conceptions of fluidity and introduced conceptions of advocacy, they navigate multiple meanings in an uncharted sea, creating new identities in the process.

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t he a rt of f eathers
te
Once reserved for ancient Hawaiian royalty, the art of featherworking is being perpetuated at Kalaekilohana near Hawai‘i Island's southernmost point.

On a tranquil morning near the southernmost tip of Hawai‘i Island, Kilohana Domingo sits perched quietly on the sunshine-yellow lanai at The Inn at Kalaekilohana. His fingers move slowly and deliberately, delicately weaving brightly colored green and yellow feathers one by one until a ropelike necklace is formed. “On a good day, if I complete an inch an hour, that’s good,” says Domingo. “But I don’t always have an hour to sit still. The biggest component in featherwork is patience.”

Meticulously gathered and sewn, feathers were fashioned into capes, hair ornaments, lei, or kahili (feathered standards used to indicate rank) by ancient Hawaiians. Implements made from feathers were considered sacred and reserved for royalty, who believed that power, or mana, was imbued into the plumes of the creatures who carried them high into the heavens. “But today, we use feathers as a way of acknowledging someone you think highly of or giving them as a special gift for an accomplishment,” says Domingo. “And people keep them for years.”

Domingo first learned the art of featherwork while attending Kamehameha Schools in Honolulu. At The Inn at Kalaekilohana, a charming four-room inn that he and husband Kenny Joyce opened in

2005, he regularly holds feather-making workshops for interested guests. “Instead of just coming here to visit, guests actually get to see how to make something uniquely Hawaiian,” says Domingo. A few years after opening, Domingo and Joyce were recognized by the state for their perpetuation of cultural activities at Kalaekilohana. “But we are, in a lot of ways, culturally passive,” says Joyce. “It’s sort of culture by osmosis. People will ask or not ask, but the nice thing is that folks are not afraid to ask.” “Then they’ll say, ‘What are the feather dusters doing there?’” says Domingo with a laugh, referring to the kahili.

With its peaceful stillness, Kalaekilohana is perhaps the best place to learn featherwork, which requires one to be free from stress. “A lei will tell you if you’re stressed out or if you’re rushing,” says Domingo, who once rushed to complete a lei for a rancher in Kona, only to have all the feathers fall out once it was done. “I enjoy the meditative process, the grounding of working with feathers. It puts me in a certain space.”

Domingo’s featherwork demonstrations at The Inn at Kalaekilohana, located in Na‘alehu at 942152 South Point Rd., are open to the public. For more information, visit kau-hawaii.com.

X t B y Lisa Yamada i M a G e B y Jonas Maon
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C hinatown ' s sordid P ast

te X t B y Anna Harmon, Kaui Awong & Margot Seeto

iM a G e B y Nirenstein's National Realty Map Company ( C ir C a 1950)

C ourtesy of University of Hawai‘i

Honolulu’s Chinatown is growing into a vibrant center for arts, commerce, and culture, but its past proves just as exciting as its future.

Historically, Chinatowns were places of cultural insularity—starting points where people unfamiliar with their host city’s language and customs could find solidarity with others like themselves. Honolulu’s Chinatown is one of the oldest in the United States. The first arrival of Chinese in Hawai‘i can be traced to two ships, the Felice and Iphigenia , which docked at Honolulu’s ports in 1778. With the growth of the sugar industry, the need for plantations workers became imperative, and given China’s close proximity and cheap labor, many Chinese were brought to Hawai‘i during the 1850s. Although laborers were brought in from Japan, Korea, Philippines, and Puerto Rico, Chinese formed nearly 49 percent of the total plantation working force in Hawai‘i.

During the earlier part of the 20th century, Chinatown expanded its defining characteristics, also becoming a bustling nightlife and red light district. While it was commonplace for Chinatowns in major U.S. cities around this time to be ghettoized and laden with brothels, gambling, and opium dens, the onset of World War II and the location of Honolulu as a military hub only increased vices like drug use, prostitution, and gambling. From the prostitutes themselves, to their madams, to the Honolulu police Vice Squad who collected taxes and payoffs, to the doctors who charged prostitutes higher fees for routine exams and morphine shots, money washed over the industry with every new wave of servicemen.

Much like today, Chinatown’s Hotel Street served as the heart of its nightlife scene in the 1940s. At 25 N. Hotel Street stood one of the most popular venues for jazz music and burlesque shows. First known as the Aloha Cafe in 1940, then later as Club Hubba Hubba in 1947, the dance joint was popular with Army servicemen. Its neon-lit nude dancer sign, recently restored, stands as a reminder of the long-gone landmark. Just next door at 35 N. Hotel Street, Bar 35 holds down the spot where one of the most iconic clubs in Honolulu’s jazz scene, The Swing Club, used to buzz late at night. Thriving in 1955, The Swing Club hosted big names such as Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald. However, the

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locale’s class act eventually degenerated into a strip joint, and later to a pornographic video store in the ’70s and ’80s.

Starting in the early ’90s, an influx of new local businesses began to revitalize Chinatown. One of the first, Bar 35 remains a Chinatown staple, with chewy gourmet pizzas, fries, and its impressive beer wall that carries more than 150 international brews. Across from Bar 35, at 32 N. Hotel Street, is The Manifest, which features some of the finest handcrafted cocktails and one of the island’s largest selections of whiskeys. From the 1960s to the late 1990s, the location The Manifest now occupies was home to Risqué Theater, featuring a ground-floor porn shop and peep show and a second-floor gay porn theater. A block down from The Manifest is the iconic Hawai‘i Theatre, known as the “Pride of the Pacific” for 90 years. Today, world-renowned musicians and first-class films enliven the theatre, but in the 1970s, the films showcased were of a more X-rated sort, featuring films like Behind the Green Door and Deep Throat , to name a few.

Although Honolulu’s modern Chinatown maintains a sense of its gritty past (with bronze plaques on a few buildings recounting the area’s sordid history), the neighborhood today is increasingly diverse. Starting with its placement on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973, Chinatown has experienced a renaissance, and property owners and merchants have been working to revitalize the area. In a relatively small and pedestrianfriendly area of about 15 city blocks, you will find distinctive stone-and-wood buildings dating back to the 1800s nestled against modern and renovated structures. Behind its historic storefronts are contemporary bars, boutiques, restaurants, and galleries—all locally owned and independently run by a set of visionary entrepreneurs who have and continue to see the value of Hawai‘i’s arts district.

The Hawaii Heritage Center, located at 1040 Smith St., offers guided walking tours, but you can just as easily meander the sidewalks of Hotel Street, Nu‘uanu Avenue, Bethel Street, and Pauahi Street on your own. For a full list of businesses in Honolulu’s Chinatown, visit chinatownnow.com.

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l ei’d in Paradise

te X t B y Lisa Yamada i M a G e B y Jonas Maon
The giving and wearing of lei is a unique island tradition and a symbol of aloha spirit and welcoming.

But while getting lei’d may be easy, the process of stringing and making the flower garlands is much more involved for the many lei makers in the islands. Tony Nguyen, a secondgeneration owner of Lin’s Lei Shop, one of the most popular lei shops among locals, recounts the work involved. “Growing up in a family of lei makers, mostly I remember always working,” he recalls. “Every day after school, my brothers and I would catch the bus to our shop, where it has been for the past 25 years. There would be bags and bags of flowers that would arrive and spill out on the tables.”

With the fragrance of tuberose and puakenikeni filling the air, the Nguyen family would prepare the flowers to be strung, each bloom cleaned and stem picked off. Sometimes, like with orchid lei, the flowers need to be deconstructed, the petals picked apart in different ways to create the many different patterns. There’s the Dahlia, a circular, twisting band of alternating purples, whites, and greens; the Butterfly, which resembles its winged inspiration; the Ali‘i, broad, flat, and reminiscent of the feather lei that adorned kings of ancient Hawai‘i.

Lei Day was created in 1927 to celebrate this symbol and is enjoyed annually on May 1.

The Honolulu Star-Bulletin reported of the momentous first occasion: “Lei blossomed on straw and felt hats, lei decorated automobiles, men and women and children wore them draped about their shoulders. To the city Kamehameha’s statue extended a garland of maile and plumeria, which fluttered in the wind from its extended hand. Lei recaptured the old spirit of the islands (a love of color and flowers, fragrance, laughter and aloha).”

So whether you are saying hello or goodbye, celebrating a momentous occasion, or just looking for a sweet way to steep yourself in island tradition, say it with a lei.

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t he Men & the s ea

“But man is not made for defeat, he said. A man can be destroyed but not defeated.” –Ernest Hemingway, The Old Man and the Sea

te X t B y Lisa Yamada i M a G e B y Ryan Moss

Climbing Pounders Beach in La‘ie on O‘ahu’s North Shore without the aid of ropes or harnesses makes Justin Ridgely’s ascent perilous. Despite this, the avid boulderer moves swiftly from hold to hold, following the natural lines of the rock formation with broad, spider-like movements. Ridgely is the owner of Volcanic Rock Gym in Kaka‘ako, the only indoor bouldering gym of its kind in Hawai‘i. It’s where climbers both novice and advanced can get a workout on the colorful walls Ridgely built from the ground up while honing their skills to prepare for the expert-level natural boulders found outdoors.

And while it looks challenging, the brawny, six-foot-something Ridgely acknowledges: “There’s stuff that is going to be easier for you than it is for me. It’s about allowing your mind to embrace that thought and to try everything and being able to feel what you’re doing wrong. It’s more than just try harder or be stronger.”

Unlike top-rope or lead climbing, bouldering utilizes body positioning and movement rather than sheer strength or equipment. “Just like yoga, if you’re in a perfect stance or position, the move will feel effortless,” says Ridgely. “With bouldering, whether it’s overhung or you’re standing on your feet, no matter what, body positioning helps out.”

Ridgely has documented 44 climbing sites that he and friends have found, cleaned, and climbed. For more information on these sites or Volcanic Rock Gym, located at 432 Keawe St., visit hibouldering.com.

Cli MB in G at the s hore
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A tiny swell pushes our kayak closer to the cliffs rising vertically from the sea, but we hardly notice. Just an hour into our four-day kayak trip and we are already awestruck by the imposing landscape. Letting out a loud hoot, our voices bounce around the walls of the huge aquatic amphitheater.

Since commercial airplanes began flying to Hawai‘i in the 1930s, and Hollywood made the islands an international destination in the 1950s, there are fewer unspoiled, raw tracts of tropical paradise left for escape. Kayaking, however, allows one to explore undisclosed locales not accessible by foot. Perhaps the most scenic kayaking tour is the Na Pali Coast, famous for its untouched, serene tropical terrain, dramatic cliffs, deep ocean caves, and lush valleys. The main two options for independently exploring Na Pali are to either hike 11 miles (each way) of Kalalau Valley or kayak 18 miles down the coast, ideally floating with the wind, starting from Ke‘e Beach and ending in Polihale State Park.

On the first leg of our journey, we explore Waiahuakua, which at 1,155 feet is one of the longest sea caves in the world. After landing at Kalalau Beach, the perfect place for a base camp, we make our way to Honopu, swimming lackadaisically at the secluded beach, peering in wonder at the small schools of fish underwater, and marveling at the towering cliffs that surround us. Leg two of our kayak adventure continues on to Miloli‘i, into an open-ocean cave where translucent water glows at the entrance to the lava tube, reflecting off the shallow bottom. We paddle back toward our pick-up spot on Polihale Beach. The beach is packed when our yellow kayaks glide over the turquoise water, bumping up onto the shoreline. It’s grueling paddling the 18-mile coastal trek, physically and mentally exhausting, but sights along the way make the journey worth it.

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k ayakin G a lon G the Coast
t e X t B y Matt Luttrell iM a G e B y Ted
John Jacobs

s urfin G d ownwind

t e X t B y Anna Harmon iM a G e B y Morgan Hoesterey

Hawai‘i has always been a land of watermen and women, perhaps most well known for being the birthplace of surfing, where ali‘i, ancient Hawaiian chiefs, danced atop the foamy seas. Despite surfing’s celebrated history, it was downwind surfing that brought the ali‘i here in the first place, paddling hundreds of miles on outrigger canoes from Polynesia. Downwind surfing requires tradewinds and open-ocean swells and can be done with multiple-person or solo canoes, kayaks, or stand-up paddleboards. To leave the beach behind and risk losing your vessel to rogue waves or squalls takes guts. It’s a sport that demands real respect, even if it doesn’t draw huge crowds and sponsors. For the folks who do it, this is perfect. It leaves them space to roam.

“Just picture you’re looking at Diamond Head right now, then you look out past the surf and see the wind blowing all those little white caps all over the place,” says North Shore lifeguard and downwind surf fanatic Kirk Ziegler. “If you were to paddle against it, the wind would be blowing in your ear and in your face. … Then you turn around and it’s quiet, because the wind’s on your back. You don’t see the white caps anymore; you just see a wave to your left, a wave to your right, a wave in front of you, and you just paddle in.”

Hawai‘i’s downwind surfers, as well as those around the country, travel the islands to compete in various races that take place every year, such as the Ka‘iwi Channel, a 26-mile water path that stretches from Moloka‘i to O‘ahu. But while races offer recognition of skills honed and training paid off, the majority of downwind surfers in Hawai‘i don’t do it for glory; they do it to get intimate with the signature tradewinds, challenging waves, ocean tradition, and scenic views of the place they call home.

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town ...

te X t B y Kelli Gratz iM a G e B y John Hook
Though Moloka‘i is without sleek boutiques, skyscrapers, or even a single traffic light, this town offers style, authenticity, and the vacation you were hoping for.

Upon arriving to Moloka‘i, head to the district of Ka‘ana, where you will find Pu‘u Nana, a sacred hill in which Laka, goddess of hula, gave birth to the dance. Laka taught all those who wished to learn the art of hula, and legend has it that after she passed, her remains were hidden somewhere beneath the hill. Her spirit is recognized every May, when daylong hula festival Moloka‘i Ka Hula Piko, or “Moloka‘i, the Center of Dance,” takes place at Papohaku Beach Park in Laka’s honor.

For breakfast, make your way to the charming town of Kaunakakai, once a summer home to King Kamehameha V and the closest thing you’ll get to a bustling city. Stop in at Kanemitsu’s Bakery & Restaurant for an assortment of sweet papaya, cinnamon apple, and taro breads, as well as the pull-apart loaves, which are filled with jelly, cream cheese, butter, and sugar. Spend the rest of the day exploring Moloka‘i’s largest port town, where nearby sights include RW Meyer Sugar Mill, Purdy’s Macadamia Farm, and Pala‘au State Park.

The 27-mile journey from Kaunakakai to Kalaupapa is said to rival the road to Hana in both beauty and personality. Take Highway 450 east and stop near the 16-mile mark, where ‘Ili‘ili‘opae Heiau, one of the largest and oldest Hawaiian temple sites, is revealed. Visitors, however, are

required to obtain permission before entering and are forbidden to touch any part of the temple. Next, venture to Kalaupapa National Historic Park, located at the base of the highest sea cliff in the world. Kalaupapa was once the site where more than 8,000 victims of Hansen’s disease, or mai ho‘oka‘awale, “the separating disease,” were exiled until 1969. The legacy of Father Damien, a Belgian priest who spent 16 years of his life caring for the ill, endures in this national landmark. The 2.9-mile trail can only be accessed by foot or by authorized tour groups such as the Moloka‘i Mule Ride or Damien Tours.

No trip to Moloka‘i is complete without a visit to Halawa Valley, a rich agricultural region home to the oldest-known Hawaiian settlement. The dramatic Moa‘ula and Hipuapua waterfalls are found in this valley. The 250-foot Moa‘ula Falls is approximately two miles up the valley. Legend tells of a huge mo‘o, or lizard, that occupies the pond. Before entering the water, you must drop a ti leaf into the pond: If it sinks, you are not welcome; if it floats, it is safe to enter.

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Hotel Lana‘i in Lana‘i City

and C ountry

te X t B y Sonny Ganaden i M a G e B y John Hook ...
Take a quick trip to paniolo country on Lana‘i, where world-class service meets old-world charm.

Though locals or visitors may not immediately think of vacationing on Lana‘i, the quiet island is the perfect getaway destination if you’re looking for serenity and adventure rolled into one. Upon arrival, jump right into an outdoors excursion at Lanai Grand Adventures, which offers activities like horseback riding, sport clay shooting, UTV rides, and hunting tours. Lanai Grand Adventures is run by paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) and national roping champion Bobby Farias. The paniolo have a long history in the islands. After initial European contact with the Hawaiian Islands, British Navy Captain George Vancouver gave longhorn cattle to King Kamehameha the Great in the 1790s. A generation later, the rampant longhorn needed taming, so Kamehameha III brought in skilled Spanish horsemen from Mexico called vaqueros to teach centuries-old skills of horsemanship and ranch management to Hawaiians. Since then, ranches, and the paniolo that steward them, have become integral to keeping land in Hawai‘i open, agricultural, and verdant.

After a long day of paniolo adventures, check in at one of the three accommodations on the island. The charming and historic Hotel Lana‘i is a nod to the past: The woodframed walls and whitewashed plank ceilings, the handsewn quilts and occasionally creaky floorboards are in the classic Hawaiian plantation style. Recently, the Four Seasons Lana‘i properties have been increasingly popular as wedding destinations for gay and lesbian couples. The Four Seasons Lodge at Koele is warm and

inviting, something akin to a Colorado ski lodge. It would be easy to sit forever watching the sunset from the lodge’s patio, or sip whiskey in the Trophy Room before settling in for a quaint dinner at the American bistro Terrace. If it’s sunnier skies you’re looking for, Four Seasons at Manele Bay may be for you. Take a stroll down Manele’s broad, white-sand beach, Hulupo‘e Bay. A quick 15-minute hike towards the southeast end and you’ll arrive at Pu‘u Pehe, known as Sweetheart Rock, where dramatic cliffs accent aquamarine tide pools below. After a hot day in the sun, lounge by the sparkling blue pool with a refreshing cocktail from the pool bar and tapas from Nobu Lana‘i.

Stroll into Lana‘i City, the central hub of the entire island, for some local-style eats. Café 565 offers yummy Korean-style chicken and sushi platters, as well as gooey calzones. Or pick up breakfast at Canoes, where you can get a fried rice loco moco or other eclectic options like fried-rice-stuffed crepes and deep-fried Oreos. Walk off the food coma with Four Seasons Lodge’s garden tour. Strolling across manicured greens, past the orchid greenhouse, bamboo forest, and pagoda structure, you just might see an amazing and unexpected sight in paniolo country: a family of deer leaping through the brush or mouflon sheep grazing without care.

42 lei lifestyle

Bradley Ca P ello's f antas M i C w orld

Museum educator and artist
Bradley Capello colors outside the lines.

On a breezy spring day at Sandy Beach Park on O‘ahu’s east side, nearly a dozen handmade kites of varying shapes and sizes fill the sky. There’s a gigantic red squid, its wide, phalliclike head soaring surprisingly high; a googly-eyed manta ray darting quickly from left to right; a delicately painted blue bird trembling by its wings. “There’s a spiritual connection to flying a kite that’s pretty trippy,” says Bradley Capello, the museum educator at Honolulu Museum of Art Spalding House and the person responsible for the day’s kite-flying festivities. “You have this thing flying really high above the ground that you can feel tug with every movement. It’s almost metaphoric, that your actions from the ground dictate what’s happening above.”

The kites are part of a program that Capello has been tasked with called Art Club. Since its inception over three years ago, Art Club has been an opportunity to reactivate the museum grounds. “It’s meant to explore play and art-making without too much pretense. It’s about connecting us to those things we did as kids that we have long since abandoned,” says Capello, who remembers flying kites with his dad. “I had this amazing white diamond kite with an angelfish on it. And yes, it was a rainbow angelfish. I still dream of it.”

Managing Art Club is just one facet of the artist’s work at the museum. In line with Spalding House’s focus on education, Capello is also responsible for creating additional interactive, hands-on programs that connect visitors with the exhibitions on

display. For a photography show, for example, Capello worked with other artists and photographers to create sun prints with students. Other Art Club activities have included rubber ducky races and Easter egg-dying competitions. He also oversees the Orvis Artist in Residence program, a six-week installation at the outdoor Surface Gallery that opens up the creative process to the public.

For as long as he can remember, Capello’s life has been marked by color, and his journey seems to have come full circle with his work at Spalding House. He took art classes at the museum from kindergarten up until his move in eighth grade to California, where he continued to make art but also became immersed in Los Angeles’ candy rave scene. Think “plush pants and glow sticks and boas and beads coming out of your ass,” he says. After high school, Capello moved back to O‘ahu to study printmaking at the University of Hawai‘i. Inspired by his Catholic upbringing, as well as the candy-colored rave scene, Capello began exploring themes of love, obsession, desire, and various forms of worship. In the worlds he built for his installation-based work, Saint Mary collided with Matt Damon and Paris Hilton, puppies and porn collided with teddy bears, Buddha, and bubbles. “Growing up going to church all the time, I think I just wanted to see what would happen by putting things like muscle worship and your love for puppies up to the level of saints, or as the saints,” he says. “That whole feeling is all rolled up into the same idea.”

t e X t B y Lisa Yamada iM a G es B y Haren Soril
45 lei arts

These ideas of obsession and desire still play heavily into Capello’s personal projects. For an upcoming exhibition at SPF Projects in Kaka‘ako, Capello is turning the splitlevel space into prayer and meditation rooms. One “altar” will be a public restroom (“referencing, of course, gay cruising spaces”) with an actual vintage bathroom stall Capello’s boyfriend, Big Brad—as he is affectionately called and to differentiate the two—demolished at a construction jobsite he was working on. “My hope is to make these spaces look pretty industrial, maybe even a little skuzzy, but then you enter it, and it’s a whole new thing. I’m really into ready-mades right now, so I don’t know if I want to touch it all that much, but my tendency is toward crazy embellishment, so who knows how it’ll develop.”

Regardless of the stark nature his newest project may take on, Capello recalls the words of a design professor who once told him in his first year at UH: “There is no such thing as an ugly color, just an ugly context.”

See what Capello is up to at Spalding House, located in Honolulu at 2411 Makiki Heights Dr. Then make a day of art explorations and visit all of The Honolulu Museum of Art’s properties, which feature some of the world’s finest international artists, traditional Asian and Hawaiian art, and contemporary works. For more information, visit honolulumuseum.org.

46 lei arts
Ca P ello's Bisquit d ia M ond a lter on dis P lay at sP aldin G h ouse in 2011.

a s eis M i C s hift

t e X t B y Marcela L.K. Biven & Vincent Van Der Gouwe iM a G e C ourtesy of the artist

Andrew Rose Gallery in downtown Honolulu is changing how people think about art in Hawai‘i.

Glass alone separates the hustle of downtown Bethel Street from the serenity behind the doors of the Andrew Rose Gallery. Like peering into the depths of shallow water, spying glimmers of mysterious life below, the gallery acts as an aquarium of living art.

Gallery director, curator, artist, and teacher, Andrew Rose received his master’s degree in painting and art history from Pratt Institute and quickly established himself in the New York City art community. Yet Rose’s desire for Hawai‘i’s colorful elements drew him back to the islands he visited as a child. In a stroke of “never-say-never” luck and unforeseen success, Rose transferred his talents in small exhibitions to his downtown Honolulu space on Bishop Street in 2011.

According to Rose, the gallery, which is located at the “crossroads of commerce and culture” in the heart of Honolulu’s financial center, is meant to be accessible to a broad spectrum of clientele. The roster of artists represented at his gallery is diverse and made up of world-class talent. It includes University of Hawai‘i at Manoa art department head Gaye Chan, photographer Franco Salmoiraghi, contemporary landscape painter Noreen Naughton, and Spalding House museum educator (also featured in this issue), Bradley Capello, to name a few.

With his small but well-designed gallery, Rose aims to expose the world to art that has a significant connection to Hawai‘i. “Traditionally, the international art scene is not very interested in art from Hawai‘i,” he says, “but I anticipate a seismic shift coming that will change that.”

The Andrew Rose Gallery is located in downtown Honolulu at 1003 Bishop St. For more information, call 808-599-4400 or visit andrewrosegallery.com.

48 lei arts
k aha‘ea (Cu M ulus f ra C tus), 2013 aC ryli C on C anvas 30” X 40” $5,000
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Experience Hawai‘i and its history through its diverse and delicious foods.

Perfe Bites te X t B y Kelli Gratz & Lisa Yamada i M a G es B y Melanie Tjoeng

As most guests and residents of a city will tell you, the best way to get a true understanding of a place is through its food. This is especially true of Hawai‘i, where the cuisine is as diverse and rich as its historical legacy. When voyagers from the South Pacific arrived in Hawai‘i more than 1,500 years ago, the food they brought with them forged the beginnings of what we know today as traditional Hawaiian food. Fish, shellfish, seaweed, taro, and breadfruit became staples. Years later, immigrant workers from around the world flocked to Hawai‘i during the Plantation Era in search of opportunity and better living. Chinese were the first laborers to Hawai‘i, followed by Japanese, Filipinos, Koreans, and Portuguese. After days of working in the plantation fields, communal meals were shared among these ethnic groups; Chinese dim sum and stir fry, Japanese bento and tempura, Korean kim chee and marinated meats, Portuguese sweet breads, Filipino adobo, and Hawaiian fish and poi. Reflective of the many different cultures of Hawai‘i’s Plantation Era, the foods featured here reflect hundreds of years of history in Hawai‘i.

s have iC e

If you’re looking for something a little nippy to quell the effects of the hot Hawaiian sun, shave ice is the perfect treat to cool the taste buds. Don’t make the mistake of calling it a snow cone because you’ll only be met with blank stares. The perfect treat for a hot summer day, shave ice has become one of those things immediately associated with Hawai‘i, towering high in rainbow hues of lilikoi, blue vanilla, strawberry, and coconut, with goodies like ice cream, azuki beans, or mochi balls buried deep beneath. Shave ice has a long history in the islands dating back to the plantation days when Japanese immigrants came to Hawai‘i for work and brought with them kakigori , as they called it—but its origins date back even further than that. During the Heian period from 794 to 1185 A.D., ice would be brought down from mountains and stored in caves and was considered a rare luxury reserved for royalty. The shave ice that we know today was brought to Hawai‘i in the 1920s by Japanese immigrant workers who would shave flakes of ice into cups with machetes. Today, ask any local, and you are sure to hear different answers for where the best shave ice can be found. Though Matsumoto Shave Ice, Waiola Shave Ice, or Shimazu Store are go-to options for most, the distinctly Asian varieties found at Your Kitchen in Kaimuki or Ice Garden in ‘Aiea are also must-try treats.

Taken from the Hawaiian word meaning “to slice or cut,” poke (pronounced “poh-kay”) can be made with a variety of cubed fish, though most traditionally with ‘ahi, or yellowfin tuna, and is usually mixed with a variation of sea salt, soy sauce, inamona (roasted, crushed kukui nut), sesame oil, onion, and limu (seaweed). According to Rachel Lauden in her book The Food of Paradise: Exploring Hawaii’s Cultural Heritage , today’s modern-day poke is a mash-up of Hawaiian, Japanese, and local tastes. Traditionally, Hawaiians enjoyed their fish raw and seasoned with salt and seaweed and served whole or lomi style (mashed with the fingers). They also preferred reef fish to the deep-ocean fish caught by Japanese, who mixed in soy sauce for the taste we’ve become familiar with today. It’s thought that the use of ingredients like sesame oil, onion, and hot chilis were added by locals in the 1970s. Today, poke is often also made with tako (he‘e in Hawaiian, meaning octopus), crab, salmon, mussels, or tofu. It’s ubiquitous in Hawai‘i,

Poke
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with a wide span of staples and specialties found in grocery stores, fish markets, and restaurants both fancy and casual. If you’re looking for a good poke, must-try spots include Foodland’s spicy secret ahi poke, Tanioka’s limu poke, Alicia’s sweet onion (make sure you get it with a side of roast pork), Ono Seafood’s Hawaiian style, or Da Poke Shack’s Pele’s kiss.

The hottest buns in Hawai‘i aren’t found on the beach. Instead, you can find some of the yummiest, piping-hot balls of dough at bakeries and carnivals around the state. From chicken to musubi to tempuras of every kind, there’s no doubt that locals love their food fried, and the malasada is no exception. Solicited to work in Hawai‘i plantations in the late 1800s, Portuguese immigrants brought with them such cultural treasures as the ‘ukulele, linguiça (what locals know simply as Portuguese sausage), Portuguese bean soup, and of course, malasadas, which are fried balls of dough covered in granulated sugar. But, as any dessert fanatic will tell you, they are so much more than that. Malasadas were eaten frequently on Shrove Tuesday, the same day as Fat Tuesday, when consumption of indulgences is allowed in preparation for Ash Wednesday and Lent. From local festivals to family-owned bakeries, like Leonard’s Bakery or Champion Malasadas, the malasada is ever-present in Hawai‘i and always luring eaters in with its unmistakable waft of fried goodness.

k al B i

Modern Korean barbecue atop tabletop grills became popular in the 1950s after the Korean War, but bulgogi, thin cuts of meat topped with scallions, shoyu, and garlic, arose out of the Goguryeo Dynasty as early at 37 B.C. When Korean immigrants came to Hawai‘i in the early 1900s, they brought with them kimchee and built barbecue pits to cook their beloved bulgogi and other marinated meats like the ever-popular kalbi. Korean barbecue should not be confused with Japanese yakiniku, which similarly grills marinated meats atop hot coals. Korean barbecue has become a staple of local eats, and for meat that can’t be beat, try Yakiniku Don-Day, Millions, Sorabol, Shillawon, and Choi’s Garden, to name a few. For a Hawaiian take on kalbi, try the pipikuala short ribs from Helena’s Hawaiian Food, which received a James Beard Foundation Regional Classics Restaurant award. The ribs are hung to dry before being cooked, making the meat moist and tender.

s ai M in

Saimin, to be sure, is quite different from ramen. The Chinese call it a product of Japanese ramen and the Japanese call it a product of Chinese mein, but one thing is certain: It’s uniquely local. Derived from the Chinese sai , meaning thin, and min , meaning noodle, saimin arose out of the plantation era, when different ethnicities gathered together around communal type meals and mixed komoboko, Spam, green onions, and egg with soft noodles in hot dashi (broth). Saimin has become so popular that even McDonald’s serves its own variety, though preferred noodle joints include Zippy’s, Palace Saimin, Dillingham Saimin, Hamura’s Saimin on Kaua‘i, or Sam Sato’s on Maui.

Malasada
55 lei food
s lowed d own f ood, f ast
te X t B y Rebecca Pike i M a G e B y Jonas Maon
Chef Roger Meier’s grab-and-go revolution is simply satisfying.

I had two recurring thoughts while devouring my hand-pulled mozzarella and macadamia nut pesto caprese sandwich, the savory herbed focaccia soft yet miraculously not soggy beneath fresh Kawamata Farms tomatoes and Fat Law’s Farm sweet basil. The first was of mozzarella basketballs bobbing in vats at Italian delis manned by first-generation immigrants in New York City’s West Village. The second was of the poor saps trudging down the streets of Honolulu with paper sacks from fast-food stops. One can only pray that they’ll discover The Baker & Butcher soon.

The menu at Baker & Butcher is simple enough to sample everything in a matter of two business weeks, choose favorites, and rotate regularly. The BLT is a love song to pork belly with house-cured-and-smoked Shinsato Farm bacon; the “Butcher’s Cut” signature sandwich has tri-tip steak, grilled shitake mushrooms, and silky cooked onions. All of the carefully prepared fillings are nestled in house-baked breads.

Chef Meier himself is a man of extremes. He is both butcher and baker. He is at once very buttoned-up and genuinely warm. The bulk of his professional kitchen experience has been at Michelinstarred Bay Area eateries (Spruce and The Village Pub, to name just two), but he chooses to make paper-wrapped sandwiches that sell for $6 to $8.. The landscape of his personal history ranges from his family’s Colorado ranch to Ismir, Turkey to San Francisco, and now, Hawai‘i. He loves the farthest opposite tips of O‘ahu. To the west, it’s Ka‘ena Point: “When I need to release a huge burden, I go there and it just feels right to me.” On the east side, it’s Makapu‘u: “Specifically the tide pools; that’s a very spiritually cleansing place to me.”

Though he is buoyant in the present, Meier’s past remains an important influence in his priorities. His time in the U.S. Air Force ran parallel to a progression of changes that deeply affected gay members of the military. The memories keep him passionate in his activism for AIDS charities and the continuing quest for equal rights. “We were not accepted,” Meier remembers. “There were witch hunts where we were thrown out dishonorably.” The Clinton administration declared Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell—a finger in the face, he recalls.

“For me, as a gay man, it’s really critical to put back into my community. They’ve given me a lot, and it’s taken years to get from some really strange back rooms in society to where we are. The more we have behind us, the further we can go. And the further we go, the more society will understand who we are.”

Hawai‘i is still evolving into a place where the law reflects what is correct and true, with equality and respect for all (though historians attest to the ancient Native Hawaiians’ acceptance of diversity in gender identity and sexuality). A relative newcomer to the islands, Meier is inspired by the state’s multiculturalism and vibrancy of nature. “I will be staying,” he says surely. “My taproot is down, and I think I’m sinking deeper roots. And The Baker & Butcher is the culmination of that.”

The Baker & Butcher is located in downtown Honolulu at 1111 Bishop St. #112. For more information, call 808-537-4140.

56 lei food

a f ruitful v enture

One couple has been helping Hawai‘i eat better with their organic products.

Amidst the busy district of Kaka‘ako, there exists a small, organically certified kitchen whose voice for supporting local organic produce is making a big impact on the way local farmers are raising their crops in Hawai‘i. Started by Lee Kehaulani Harper and Merima Halilovic, HaHa Hawaiian Organics has been helping Hawai‘i eat better since 2012.

The health-food power couple first met in Baghdad while working for the U.S. Embassy. “We wanted to leave Baghdad. We had done it for three years,” says Harper, who grew up in Hawai‘i. “When we actually got together as a couple, Merima got harassed by the people in her company. Most of it was out of jealousy because she would come back to Hawai‘i with me for vacation.” Eventually, the Bosnia-born Halilovic was able to file for political asylum, and the couple celebrated a civil union in San Diego shortly after their departure from Baghdad.

Harper and Halilovic originally wanted to open a Bosnian restaurant, but they soon discovered the organic food market in Hawai‘i was ripe for the picking. “When I came here to America, I found a 12-pack of Coca-Cola for $7 and three organic tomatoes at $10,” Halilovic recalls. “I was like, ‘What is wrong with this picture?’”

Harper began researching the legalities of opening a certified organic kitchen—a first for Hawai‘i—and before they knew it, HaHa Hawaiian Organics was born. HaHa is derived from the first syllables of their names, as well as the Hawaiian definition for ha, meaning “breath of life.” In addition to producing organic products, Harper and Halilovic make it a point to help local farmers get certified as organic by helping them through inspections and guiding them through the procedure, a process that can take up to five years. Upon receiving USDA certification, ongoing paperwork and processes must continue to sustain the purity of the product.

All the produce used in their products, which include juices, baby food, and sorbets, are certified USDA organic. Their concoctions include a delightfully tart Gingerade, a sweet Tropical Breeze, and a refreshing Lili-Nokaoi. In the near future, the couple plans on producing a variety of organic dog treats, dried fruit snacks, a superfood drink, and spirits. All in all, this is definitely one juicy Hawaiian experience that can’t be missed.

HaHa Hawaiian Organics products are available at Whole Foods and Down To Earth stores around Hawai‘i. For more information, call 808-888-7918 or visit hahahawaiianorganics.com.

t e X t and i M a G e B y
59 lei food

a lohawear Means h ello

te X t B y Sonny Ganaden i M a G es B y John Hook
The clothes that have defined our islands continue making statements in the islands and beyond.

I can’t remember the first time I saw an aloha shirt. Growing up in Colorado, it may have been on a friend’s dad recently returned from that long-awaited vacation in Hawai‘i, or in a Hollywood spin like 50 First Dates . Not until I moved to O‘ahu did I realize that alohawear isn’t just a tacky tourist thing—it’s the real deal. My boss, a 60-year-old local Okinawan woman, wore a mu‘umu‘u to the office for a meeting and looked stunning. I saw downtown swarmed by reverse-print button-ups at noontime. I bought my first aloha print tank top. I got a job at a local restaurant and was issued that island-style service uniform: a set of three interchangeable pareau-print shirts in green, blue, and khaki. I began to see that what alohawear means to each of us is complicated, and what makes us want to wear it (or not) has been determined by decades of tourism, garment and service industries, self-expression, and a tropical setting.

From its brightly colored tropical prints to its more demure reverse-print fabrics, alohawear has come to define the look of Hawai‘i. The style itself dates all the way back to the 1820s, when the mu‘umu‘u was born as a more island-friendly version of the floor-length cotton dress introduced by Protestant missionaries, but it wasn’t until a decade later that aloha shirts—now the alohawear signature—would make their debut. Originating in the 1930s at a local tailor shop, the aloha shirt was quickly snatched up by tourists arriving by boatloads who wanted a “visual postcard” of their time in paradise. It became widely adopted by the local population as WWII limited garment exports and imports, and Hawai‘i folks found it truly did express and fit the islands’ vibes better than mainland fashions.

Inevitably, as with most fashion crazes, the style aged with the industry and population that first adopted the trend. But several of today’s designers—both locally born and mainland transplants—have plenty to say about the signature style. Reyn Spooner has been turning alohawear inside out since the 1960s and is again redefining what alohawear means today. Though many once associated alohawear with the ware of old uncles and dads, Reyn Spooner has been changing notions and turning heads with the launch of their Modern Collection four years ago. The collection features a slimmer fit and an

60 lei fashion

overt reference to classic, vintage patterns, a nod to the fact that vintage shops and thrift stores have become a trending place to dig up favorite aloha shirts. They even collaborated with Opening Ceremony to create fashion-forward jumpers and summer dresses alongside tailored, classic aloha-print shirts paired with mid-thigh-length shorts and modeled by a ruggedly handsome, beach-blonde type.

Meanwhile a newer set of alohawear designers have cropped up, evolving the iconic look of Hawai‘i once again. With her expertly tailored men’s shirts and eclectic prints, Roberta Oaks’ shirts have become all the rage with both men and women, young and old. Sig Zane Designs, which originated out of a desire to celebrate the traditions that infuse Hawai‘i’s culture, are donned in settings both casual and formal, buttoned up to the neck and tucked into straight-leg dress pants or left loose and worn over shorts. Hand-printed using organic dyes and traditional tools and manufactured in Hawai‘i, Sig Zane Designs offers an authentic education about Hawai‘i’s lifestyle in modern cuts and prints.

Like clockwork every few seasons, brands ranging from Prada to Stussy to Forever 21 draw inspiration from the islands’ prints and breezy cuts. But for Hawai‘i designers such as Jeffrey Yoshida, it’s less about the look than the story behind it: “It would be so easy to say, ‘Oh alohawear is something in a Hawaiian print,’ but I don’t think that’s it necessarily at all. I think it’s really more of the feeling of how we live here on the islands.”

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62 lei fashion

t ruly Beautiful

te X t B y Sonny Ganaden i M a G e B y John Hook
Ariyaphon Southiphong's line, Andy South, continues to introduce beautiful menswear and womenswear in Hawai‘i, and soon, around the world.

Back to work at her atelier in the heart of urban Honolulu, Ariyaphon Southiphong (Ari, to her friends) is returning from fashion week in El Paseo, California, where she was given a standing ovation for her spring and summer collections. “The way it’s built out is the closest thing I’ve seen to New York Fashion Week,” she says. “We’re doing well at Neiman Marcus and our clientele remains consistent in Hawai‘i, but now it’s time to pick up more work, other markets.”

It’s hard to imagine Ari working any harder. After becoming a household name as a top contestant on Project Runway , recently competing on the show’s All Stars season, creating her own fashion house, and changing genders, Ari has rarely stopped to appreciate the whirlwind of influence she has created in Honolulu’s burgeoning fashion scene. With nearly a dozen full-time employees, attendants, and students, the Andy South atelier has grown as a production house, manufacturing a range of local fashion from Sig Zane Designs alohawear to the Punahou School marching band uniforms. In 2013, Ari began producing menswear for her Andy South brand. Featuring handsomely tailored shirts with twin pockets and linen blends, the line is a nod to the un-tucked formality popular in the temporal tropics, a worthy successor to the Reyn Spooner and Alfred Shaheen lines now considered classic Hawaiiana. For the pool, a swimwear line is in the works. “Of course it will be skimpy, tight, and tailored,” she says with a laugh.

A few years into her success, Ari remains diligent, wary of the ways fashion can chew up individuals. “Especially if it’s a luxury brand, mo’ money mo’ problems,” she says of her profession. “The criticisms of people in the industry are real, about how people are fake, because really folks are chasing a fantasy. … It’s tough to pretend to maintain a lifestyle you don’t have.” Ari remains the type that prefers a brutal truth over a convenient fantasy, a trait her customers, fans, and colleagues have come to value. In truth, her clothes are beautiful.

64 lei fashion

Leather Sou L Waikiki, r oyal h awaiian Center, 3rd flr., leathersoulhawaii. C o M

Martin & Mac a rthur, M ulti P le lo C ations, M artinand M a C arthur. C o M Mojo Bar B er S hop 1157 Bethel s t., M

o a S i S Life S ty L e, 226 l ewers s t.

oL iver 49 k iha P ai s t., oliverhawaii. C o M

Quik S i L ver , M ulti P le lo C ations, quiksilver. C o M

r o B erta o ak S , 19 n . Pauahi s t., ro B ertaoaks. C o M

t ruffaux 227 l ewers s t., truffau X C o M

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Must-have items when visiting Hawai‘i

1. delfonics red canvas utility pouch, Mono

2. sideshow Press yellow notebook, Mono

3. Pocket square Clothing pocket square, oliver

4. Compass necklace, roberta oaks

5. frank Clegg signature lined leather tote, leather soul

6. sideshow Press red notebook, Mono

7. Maui soap Company plumeria and aloha soaps, oasis lifestyle

8. sideshow Press yellow and blue handy notes notebooks, Mono

9. leather soul orange umbrella, leather soul

10. Grant’s Golden Brand Pomade in royal hawaiian, Mojo Barbershop

11. halekulani x nat sherman cigar

12. the Beach People round towel and leather strap, oliver

13. izola everyday flask, Mono

14. fjallraven kanken ochre backpack, Mono

15. satyr red fedora, truffaux

16. frank Clegg leather dopp kit, leather soul

17. layrite no. 9 aftershave, Mojo Barbershop

18. Baxter of California double edge safety razor, Mojo Barbershop

19. roberta oaks Potion no. 4, roberta oaks

20. apolis x oliver beach tote, oliver

21. Martin & Macarthur dylan koa sunglasses, Martin & Macarthur stores

22. otis & eleanor bluetooth speaker, oliver

23. spyglass, roberta oaks

24. shelters, shacks, and shanties book, roberta oaks

25. quiksilver dane boardshort, quiksilver stores

26. sideshow Press olive handy notes notebook, Mono

27. Martin & Macarthur koa iPhone case, Martin & Macarthur

28. Bottle opener key, oliver

29. quiksilver Carver suede slippers, quiksilver stores

30. delfonics green canvas utility pouch, Mono

31. andrew Mau bronze shaka bottle opener, oliver

32. Get salty beer koozie, roberta oaks

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67 lei fashion

o n t i M : j .Crew navy B oardshort fro M j .Crew-on-the- i sland.

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love is love

On December 2, 2013, Hawai‘i became the 15th state to legalize same-sex marriage. Three couples

recount momentous journeys in love.

Kyle and Nathaniel Lui

San Francisco, California

Years together: 4

Why Hawai‘i:

Hawai‘i is a place where both Kyle and I feel at home. Having lived on O‘ahu for nine years, I knew that one day I would be married somewhere magical. That place certainly exists, and it’s only 45 minutes north of Kona near Hawi on Hawai‘i Island.

The ceremony:

Our wedding was held at Hawaii Island Retreat at Ahu Pohaku Ho‘omaluhia near Kapa‘au. Our ceremony was on Friday, March 7 at 4 p.m. We had 53 guests (from Hong Kong, Sydney, Toronto, and the U.S. mainland), many of whom had never been to Hawai‘i before.

Wedding tip:

Get a wedding planner. Kandi from Hawaii Island Weddings by Kauka was imperative in executing our vision for an intimate gathering of family and friends. Sharing the aloha spirit was our utmost goal, and Kandi delivered on so many levels.

Best thing about Hawai‘i:

Aside from a gorgeous wedding venue and truly meaningful ceremony, our favorite moments were largely influenced by the natural beauty and private setting of Hawaii Island Retreat. Jeanne, the proprietor of Hawaii Island Retreat, made us feel welcomed and loved—she’s totally aloha. Kyle, our guests, and I are certain to one day go back and give Jeanne a big hug.

77 lei love

Aaron Hepps & Aaron O’Neill

Kane‘ohe, Hawai‘i

Years together:

We have actually only been together for a couple months. The Navy brought my nowhusband to where I am currently stationed in Jacksonville, Florida. We started hanging out and feelings grew very quickly. His orders changed, taking him to Hawai‘i, and after a couple days separated from each other, we knew we couldn’t spend our lives apart.

The wedding:

Originally, we were planning on getting married in California, but I wanted to see Hawai‘i and have a beach wedding. We got married on my birthday, and the whole thing was Aaron’s gift to me. We got married on a very private area of Kahala Beach. We had one friend come. The scene was awesome, with tropical views and beautiful waters.

Wedding tip:

Ensure you complete the online marriage license application a week or two in advance and contact an officiant prior to getting to Hawai‘i.

Plans to return to Hawai‘i:

The beauty of the island is amazing. Everywhere you look, it’s breathtaking. And the locals are so nice! I will be moving to Hawai‘i this June. The military is allowing me to co-locate with my husband.

78 lei love
iM a G e B y Kelli Bullock

Orange County, California

Years together:

We met a little over three years ago while working together at “The Happiest Place on Earth” and started dating shortly after that.

The honeymoon:

We originally considered eloping to Hawai‘i and having a small ceremony on the beach. Unfortunately, during our planning phase, gay marriages were not yet legal in Hawai‘i, so we wound up getting married on October 15, 2013 at the old Orange County Courthouse. Little did we know that just a few short months later, gay marriage would become legal. We love visiting the beaches in California, but when we saw pictures of the beaches in Hawai‘i, we always talked about going there to see the breathtaking crystal-blue ocean.

Honeymooning tip:

I would definitely recommend hiring an experienced photographer if you plan on getting married in Hawai‘i. Since we had a small ceremony back home, we decided we would take professional photos on the beach when we got to Hawai‘i.

Must-do:

We absolutely fell in love with O‘ahu and cannot wait to return. We snorkeled with sea turtles, parasailed, went on a gay catamaran, visited Dole Plantation, saw the waves on the North Shore, ate fresh coconut picked off the tree, hand-fed koi fish at the Byodo-In Temple, made some interesting friends at the local bars, got tattoos, and so much more. Everyone was so friendly and welcoming. We were treated like VIPs at the local gay bars when people found out we were on our honeymoon. We even got newlywed lap dances at a drag show! The best thing about Hawai‘i is it gave us the opportunity to relax and enjoy each other, and we cannot wait to return.

For more love stories from Hawai‘i, visit leiculture.com.

81 lei
iM a G e B y Kelli Bullock

w eddin G r esour C es

Co MP iled B y Keane Akao

Where better to solidify your wedding nuptials than in the place where the beauty of the landscape is only matched by the aloha of its people? Create lasting memories and moments on your special day with any of these wedding resources in the islands.

venues

Lanikuhonua lanikuhonua.com 808-674-3278

Loulu Palm Estate loulupalm.com 800.880.7256

Sunset Ranch sunsetranchhawaii.com 808-638-8333

Bayer Estate bayerestate.com 808-377-9359

Oluwalu Plantation (Maui) oluwaluplantationhouse. com

808-677-5751

Hulihe‘e Plantation (Hawai‘i Island) huliheepalace.net 808-329-1877

Plantation Gardens (Kaua‘i) pgrestaurant.com/ weddings 808-742-2121

photo G rapher S

Mike Pham Photography mikephamphotography. com

808-306-8379

Visionari visionari.com 808-220-8108

Kai Photo kai-photo.com 808-591-1882

Kelli Bullock Photography kellibullockphotography. com

808-387-5224

Scott Drexler (Maui) scottdrexler.com 808-879-7200

Aria Photography (Hawai‘i Island and O‘ahu) ariastudios.com 888-734-9994

Jonathan Moeller Photography (Kaua‘i) jmoellerphoto.com 808-635-4579

florists

Yvonne Design yvonnedesign.com 808-234-0001

Rainforest rainforesthawaii.com 808-738-0999

Sweet Pea and Petunia sweetpeapetunia.com 808-234-0002

Easley Designs easleydesigns.com 808-595-3936

Passion Roots passionroots.com 808-228-6303

Asa Flowers (Maui) asaflowers.com 808-249-8845

Ainahua Florals (Hawai‘i Island) store.ainahuaflorals.com 808-885-4045

Martin Roberts (Kaua‘i) martinroberts.com 808-332-9194

offi C iants

Rev. James Chun hawaiiweddingminister. com 808-383-7090

June Dillinger idohawaiianweddings.com 808-330-5555

Your Maui Ministers (Maui) ministersonmaui.com 888-225-0849

Judith Leong (Hawai‘i Island) trinityhawaiianweddings. com 808-895-3517

Julie D. Wirtz (Kaua‘i) kauaiofficiant.com 808-652-9443

hair & M akeu P

Jacque Rojas jacquerojas.com 808-955-5600

Leslie Fair lesliefair.com 808-589-9881

Delish Makeup Artistry delishmakeupartistry.com 808-780-7184

Faith & Beauty faithandbeauty.com 808-391-5753

Timeless Classic Beauty timelessclassicbeauty.com 808-391-5398

video G ra P hers

IMF Visions imfvisions.com 808-392-4012

Video 21 video21productions.com 808-781-2084

Crane Media cranemedia.com 808-383-7090

ImagineWurks imaginewurks.com 808-228-7714

C aterers

Elite Catering elitecatering-hawaii.com 808-422-8113

Course Hawaii coursehawaii.com 808-371-6786

Celebrations Catering (Maui) bevgannonrestaurants. com/celebrations 808-572-4946

Paradise Gourmet (Hawai‘i Island) paradisegourmet.com 808-326-1244

Gaylord’s Restaurant (Kaua‘i) kilohanakauai.com 808-245-5608

Keane Akao is a managing partner of Perfectly Planned Hawai‘i, a full-service LGBT destination weddings and events firm in Hawai‘i. With an innate sense of style and ability to translate concept into reality, Perfectly Planned Hawai‘i works to showcase each couple’s individuality and personality to produce flawless affairs, paying full attention to all the details that will make your special event perfectly planned.

82 lei love

r eal e state in h awai‘i

t
Whether it’s a condo on Waikiki Beach or a regal home on Hawai‘i Island’s Kohala coast, Hawai‘i has a vast array of real estate for sale. If you’re looking for a vacation home or have plans to relocate, step one is to understand all that Hawai‘i has to offer.

Let’s face it, without good weather, Hawai‘i wouldn’t be paradise. Still, there are plenty of climates to contend with in the islands, and each of the four largest islands contains a variety of unique terrain. The east-facing coast of each island (known as the windward side) is typically characterized by cooler weather and more rainfall. The west-facing coast (leeward side) is usually drier and hotter, with Hawai‘i Island’s leeward coast the warmest and driest area in the state. Kaua‘i is a bit of an exception: The wettest place on that island is in the center, in the mountains. Elevation also plays a big role in the microclimate of a particular location. Maui and Hawai‘i Island have the most diversity in habitable elevation. On O‘ahu and Kaua‘i, millennia of rain and weather have eroded tall, gradually sloping volcanoes into shorter, steeper mountains and canyons, resulting in the majority of housing options at lower elevations. Pri C e

Real estate in Hawai‘i can range from $5,000 for an undeveloped lot in Puna on Hawai‘i Island to upwards of $30 million dollars for an estate on O‘ahu’s Gold Coast. While there are many options in between, generally, real estate in Hawai‘i is expensive when compared to others areas of the United States. According to a recent study by

the University of Hawai‘i Economic Research Organization, the median price of a single-family home on O‘ahu was $647,000 in 2013 and is expected to rise to nearly $775,000 by 2015. O‘ahu condos are predicted to follow a similar trend, with prices increasing from a median of about $335,000 in 2013 to $376,000 in 2015. The best real-estate values available are on Hawai‘i Island, where the median price of properties currently listed for sale is $330,000.

l and t enure

While uncommon elsewhere in the United States, Hawai‘i has a substantial number of properties that are held as leasehold rather than fee-simple. Typically, this means that while the current owner holds title to the improvements on the property, the land underneath is rented under a long-term lease. When searching for real estate in Hawai‘i, it is important to understand this difference and how it affects price and value. Fee-simple properties will undoubtedly increase in value over time, while leasehold properties typically lose value as the lease’s end date draws nearer. If you do find a leasehold property that is of interest, ask your agent to look into whether the fee is available for sale—purchasing the fee along with the improvements will result in your-fee simple ownership of the entire property.

84 lei

eXP lore the si G hts, sounds, and s C ents of h awai‘i

The 400-foot Waimoku Falls is a majestic sight to behold, a fanciful reward at the end of a 4-mile roundtrip hike up the Pipiwai Trail. Located in Haleakala National Park, the hike to Waimoku Falls offers different adventures at every turn, including a majestic Banyan tree, bridge crossings over Pipiwai Stream, and a bamboo forest. Access the Pipiwai Trail at the Kipahulu coastal area of Haleakala National Park, reached via Route 36 to 360 to 31. Image by David Chatsuthiphan, unrealhawaii.com

86 lei
G uide

LEI DAY

May 1, 2014; Queen Kapi‘olani Park, 2806 Monsarrat Ave. leiday.net

Take part in the celebration of Hawaiian culture and the spirit of aloha, and enjoy the sweet smells of the flower lei, the symbol of the Hawaiian Islands.

UNIVERSAL SHOW QUEEN

May 10, 2014; Hawai‘i Convention Center, 1801 Kalakaua Ave. universalshowqueenpageant.com

Established in 1984, Universal Show Queen is one of Hawai‘i’s most prestigious female impersonation pageants, continuing to positively promote and enhance the art of female illusion and impersonation.

HONOLULU AIDS WALK

May 24, 2014; Honolulu Hale, 530 S. King St. lifefoundation.org

Run past landmarks such as Honolulu Hale and ‘Iolani Palace during this sponsored 3K walk or run while supporting those who live with HIV/AIDS.

IRONMAN WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP

May 31, 2014; Hapuna Beach State Park to Mauna Lani Resort ironman.com

Known for its grueling components including a 2.4-mile swim, 112-mile bicycle ride, and 26.2-mile run, the Ironman Triathlon has been challenging athletes from around the world since it kicked off in Kona in 1978.

HONOLULU PRIDE PARADE

June 7, 2014; from Magic Island to Kapi‘olani Park honolulupride.org

With the 2014 theme Pupukahi I Holomua (United to Move Forward), the parade aims to bring together the LGBT community and the people of Hawai‘i.

HAWAI‘I RAINBOW FILM FESTIVAL

June 10–15, 2014; Doris Duke Theater, 900 Kinau St. hglcf.org

This year marks the 25th installment of this LGBT film festival, one of the longest-running and celebrated festivals, featuring both national and international films.

M AUI P RIDE

October 3–5, 2014 mauipride.org

Pride Weekend on Maui celebrates, encourages, and educates all people on the positive diversity of the LGBT community.

H AWAI ‘ I I NTERNATIONAL F ILM F ESTIVAL

October 30–November 9, 2014; various locations hiff.org

Established in 1981, the Hawai‘i International Film Festival is dedicated to the advancement of cultural exchange and media awareness in the Pacific Rim, showcasing an average of 150 features each fall.

H AWAI ‘ I FASHION M ONTH

November, 2014; various locations hawaiifashionmonth.com

A month-long calendar of events to promote and elevate all aspects of Hawai‘i’s fashion industry, including design, manufacturing, education, art, and retail.

TRANSGENDER DAY OF REMEMBRANCE

November 20, 2014; University of Hawai‘i at Hilo, Campus Center Plaza, 200 W. Kawili St. transgenderdor.org

This annual day of remembrance raises public awareness of hate crimes against transgender people and memorializes those who have died due to anti-transgender violence.

HONOLULU MARATHON

December 14, 2014; Ala Moana Blvd. to Kapi’olani Park honolulumarathon.org

Whether you are a fast runner or a casual walker, with around 30,000 participants each year, this marathon is a great experience.

GREAT ALOHA RUN

February 16, 2015; Aloha Tower to Aloha Stadium greataloharun.com

Since 1985, this 8.15-mile race attracts professional runners as well as parents with children, all taking part to support the local community.

88 lei guides f Ê te

The Gathering Place, where cosmopolitan delights and scenic beauty collide.

Editor’s Note: This is a small sampling of the notable restaurants, shops, accommodations, and attractions that the islands have to offer. For more, visit leiculture.com. These listings are unpaid and independent of advertising.

eXP erien C e M ore with a vis. Call 1-800-367-3367 or G o to avis. C o M for reservations.

90 lei guides

12 TH AVENUE G RILL

1120 12th Ave. (808-732-9469) 12thavegrill.com

[3] $$$

The fresh flavors of local produce paired with chef finds like skate and farmed organic New Zealand King Salmon make for bold and interesting tastes and textures at this contemporary American restaurant.

AZURE

2259 Kalakaua Ave. (808-923-7311) azurewaikiki.com

[4] $$$$

At this Diamond Head and Waikiki beachfront dining, experience a luxurious ambience paired with fresh local fish and a Hawai‘i twist on classic mixed drinks.

B AR 35 [2] $

35 N. Hotel St. (808-537-3535) bar35.com

Enjoy a selection of more than 150 beers from around the world and an extensive array of cocktails, wine, and sake alongside chewy, gourmet pizza at this Chinatown location’s indoor or outdoor patio bar.

B RASSERIE D U V IN [2] $$

1115 Bethel St. (808-545-1115) brasserieduvin.com

Channeling many of the cafés found in southern France, this quaint indoor-outdoor patio location serves up rustic dishes with an expansive wine list.

CAFÉ JULIA

1040 Richards St. (808-533-3334) cafejuliahawaii.com

[2] $$

Located at the Downtown YWCA, this historic cafe pays homage to those quiet mid-afternoon hours. Enjoy its simple elegance with friends or a good book.

CHEF CHAI

1009 Kapiolani Blvd. (808-585-0011) chefchai.com

[3] $$$

Palette pampering has never been easier than with Hawaiian ingredients fused with Asian inspiration and an alluring wine list at this longtime LGBT favorite.

DORAKU [3] $$

100 Kapiolani Blvd. (808-591-0101) dorakusushi.com

Influenced by the Japanese izakaya style of dining, this contemporary Japanese restaurant creates a casual yet sophisticated style of eating and drinking.

H ANK ’ S H AUTE D OGS

324 Coral St. (808-532-4265) hankshautedogs.com

HASR BISTRO

31 N. Pauahi St.  (808-533-4277) hasrbistro.com

[2] $$

With an impressive lineup of live, local music and tremendous wine selection via the accompanying wine shop next door, this Chinatown spot is great for lunch, pau hana, or dinner.

H EEIA P IER G ENERAL S TORE & D ELI [5] $ 46-499 Kamehameha Hwy. (808-235-2192) heeiapier.com

Located on the water’s edge, this general store is an unlikely venue for savory, gourmet plate lunches—but that’s exactly what it offers.

H ONOLULU B URGER CO.

1295 S. Beretania St. (808-626-5202) honoluluburgerco.com

[4] $$

At this simple burger joint, all burgers are made with 100 percent, grassfed Big Island beef and can be topped with a variety of local favorites like Portuguese sausage, kalua pig, or braised Korean short ribs.

I L LUPINO T RAITTORIA & W INE B AR [4] $$$

Royal Hawaiian Center Level 1, 2233 Kalakaua Ave. (808-922-3400) illupino.com

Dishing out delectable Italian fare at both its indoor and alfresco bar and dining, this restaurant at the heart of Waikiki also boasts a salumeria where cured meats and cheeses are sliced in front of patrons.

I RIFUNE

563 Kapahulu Ave. (808-737-1141)

[4] $$

This popular neighborhood eatery is famous for its garlic ahi and funky décor. The gyoza is a must-try, homemade and stuffed with tofu, cream cheese, and an additional ingredient that changes daily.

JAPENGO

Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach Resort & Spa, 2424 Kalakaua Ave. (808-923-1234) hyattregencywaikiki.com/japengo

[4] $$$

Offering an array of authentic Pacific Rim flavors, this Hyatt restaurant features an incredible sushi bar and lounge as well as elegant private and semi-private dining.

JJ D OLAN ’ S [2] $$ 1147 Bethel St. (808-537-4992) jjdolans.com

This Irish pub stands out for its handcrafted New York pizza and hand-poured drinks. Follow it on twitter for daily pizza specials.

[3] $$

Presenting a creative play on the all-American favorite, Hank’s Haute Dogs appeals to a wide range of taste buds and diets, with great ingredients and innovative thinking.

ta S te

KOKO H EAD C AFE

1145c 12th Ave. (808-732-8920)

kokoheadcafe.com

[3] $$

Run by famed New York-born chef Lee Anne Wong, this island-style brunch house is quickly becoming one of O‘ahu’s favorite spots for sweet (black pepper maple pancakes; peanut butter, banana, bacon sandwich) and savory (breakfast bibimbop with bacon, Portuguese sausage, and heritage ham) daytime dining.

KALAPAWAI CAFÉ & DELI

750 Kailua Rd. (808-262-3354)

kalapawaimarket.com

[3] $$

This spacious bistro-style stop features an impressive small-plate menu with a focus on clean, seasonal flavors and tidy presentation. The sweet potato ravioli in sage brown butter sauce and the bone-in pork chop are must-try.

LONGHI ’ S

[3] $$

Ala Moana Shopping Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. (808-947-9899)

Though Longhi’s is known for fresh fish, prime steaks, and succulent lobsters, it also has one of the best eggs benedicts on the island.

M AI TAI B AR [3] $$

Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. (808-947-2900)

maitaibar.com

Great for catching the game during the day, this open-air bar is one of the best places for happy hour and is where locals dance the night away to reggae and Hawaiian music.

M ANIFEST

32 N. Hotel St. (808-523-7575) manifesthawaii.com

[3] $

This downtown favorite is a modern coffee shop by day and cultural, sophisticated cocktail bar by night, featuring popular deejays weekly, rotating art exhibitions, and small bites.

M ORNING G LASS [3] $ 2955 E. Manoa Rd. (808-673-0065) morningglasscoffee.com

At this cafe, coffee is brewed by the cup with a Chemex, and each day, a Hawai‘i-grown coffee roasted in-house is featured alongside imported coffees from micro-roaster Stumptown in Portland.

NICO’S [3] $ 1133 N Nimitz Hwy. (808-540-1377) nicospier38.com

Located on Pier 38, this waterfront restaurant presents fresh, locally caught fish and is great for breakfast or lunch.

OTTO C AKE

[3] $ 1127 12th Ave. (808-834-6886) ottocake.com

Owner Otto whips up this small shop’s cheesecakes from scratch daily using only the finest ingredients, making for one of the most soughtafter desserts in Honolulu.

PARK RESTAURANT

[3] $$$ 2885 Kalakaua Ave. (808-791-5161)

parkrestaurantwaikiki.com

Serving modern interpretations of Mediterranean cuisine, this restaurant celebrates worldly flavors while embracing local ingredients.

PIG AND THE LADY

[3] $$ 83 N. King St. (808-383-2152) thepigandthelady.com

Inspired by his mother’s home-cooked meals, chef Andrew Le presents contemporary French-Vietnamese fare that farmers-market regulars have come to know and love. Com ga hoi an; pho French dip; bun bo hue.

PINT + JIGGER

1936 S King St. (808-744-9593) pintandjigger.com

[3] $$

Escape for a moment at this modern public house, which intertwines craft beers and original cocktails with savory food in a classic social atmosphere.

P RIMA

108 Hekili St. (808-888-8933) primahawaii.com

[3] $$

Pizza lovers will adore this industrial American-Italian restaurant boasting some of the best kiawe wood-fired brick oven pizzas alongside sophisticated salads and entrées, all made to be split among a table of friends.

RUMFIRE

[3] $$ 2255 Kalakaua Ave. (808-922-4422) rumfirewaikiki.com

Lounge in the warm atmosphere of this restaurant with 180-degree views of Waikiki or sit outside in the sun’s rays and indulge in social comfort food with local influences and an impressive rum selection.

S ALT K ITCHEN & TASTING B AR

[3] $$ 3605 Waialae Ave. (808-744-7567)

With an emphasis on house-made charcuterie, Salt may well have come up with the tastiest bar food menu in Hawai‘i by being innovative with the classics.

TANGO CONTEMPORARY C AFÉ

[3] $$ 1288 Ala Moana Blvd., Ste. 120 (808-593-7288) tangocafehawaii.com

Enjoy Scandinavian-Asian inspired cuisine in a minimalist contemporary atmosphere that makes you feel like you’re picnicking in a park.

TOWN

[3] $$ 3435 Waialae Ave. (808-735-5900) townkaimuki.com

This unpretentious American bistro’s menu changes daily based on the freshest ingredients available, enticing diners to come back for more.

92 lei
guides

WAIOLU OCEAN VIEW LOUNGE $$

223 Saratoga Rd. (808-682-7777)

Inspired by the simplicity of tapas, guests can dine in an intimate setting for two or choose to share flavorful small-plate creations while sipping specialty drinks using only the freshest ingredients.

S hop

A LA M OANA S HOPPING C ENTER [3]

1450 Ala Moana Blvd. (808-955-9517) alamoanacenter.com

The world’s largest outdoor shopping center, with over 290 stores and restaurants to peruse.

FISHCAKE

307c Kamani St. (808-593-1231)

[3] $$$

A home furnishings and gallery experience showcasing furniture, accessories, and art for the contemporary home.

I N 4 MATION

Chinatown, 1154 Nuuanu Ave. (808-538-8898); McCully, 2009 S. King St. (808-941-8381); Pearlridge, 98-1005 Moanalua Rd. (808-488-0411)

[2] $$

M UU M UU H EAVEN [5] $$ 767 Kailua Rd. (808-263-3366) muumuuheaven.com

Each piece is one of a kind at this eco-conscious boutique, with Hawaiian style prints and fabrics recycled and repurposed to create fresh apparel that is good to the environment.

O LIVER M EN ’ S S HOP [5] $$ 49 Kihapai St. (808-261-6587) oliverhawaii.com

A surf-inspired lifestyle boutique, this men’s store features some of the most hard-to-find contemporary brands like Aloha Sunday, Saturdays, Mucho Aloha, and M.Nii.

O WENS & CO. [2] $$ 1152 Nuuanu Ave. (808-531-4300) owensandcompany.com

Located on a corner in the historic Chinatown Arts district, this bright boutique offers a fantastic collection of home accessories, gifts, and vintage items.

T RUFFAU x [4] $$$ 227 Lewers St. (808-921-8040) truffaux.com

In4mation’s strength in this niche market is built upon a set of varied experiences, embodying Hawai‘i’s action sports, lifestyle, and retail market. In4mation carries alternative design concepts, eclectic lines, and products for both men and women.

L EATHER S OUL

Unlocking the secrets of fine hat wearing, Truffaux rebirths the Panama hat back into popular culture with its finely crafted goods.

R EYN S POONER

[2,4] $$$

Waikiki, Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center, 3rd flr. (808-922-0777); Downtown, 119 Merchant St. (808-523-7700) leathersoulhawaii.com

This premium retailer of fine leather shoes and accessories keeps gents dashing with handcrafted footwear from such esteemed brands as Alden, Saint Crispin’s, J.M. Weston, and John Lobb.

M ANUHEALI ‘ I

930 Punahou St. (808-942-9868); 5 Hoolai St. (808-261-9865) manuhealii.com

[4,5] $$

With new prints every six to eight weeks, this shop is the best place to find unique aloha wear that is both comfortable and flattering for everyone.

M ARTIN & M AC A RTHUR [3] $$$

Ward Center Flagship, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd. (808-591-1949); additional locations online martinandmacarthur.com

This retailer of fine koa gifts and accessories carries the widest selection of classic Hawaiian gifts including koa jewelry boxes, feather lei, koa boxes and bowls, all made by the finest craftsmen in Hawai‘i.

M ONO [3] $$

2013 S. King St. (808-955-1595) monohawaii.com

Inspired by the careful curation of boutiques in Japan, this lifestyle shop specializes in small design goods for the home and office.

[3,4] $$

Ala Moana Center, Kahala Mall, and Sheraton Waikiki Hotel; additional locations online reynspooner.com

This manufacturer of modern aloha attire has been featuring original patterns and its iconic reverse-print since 1956.

R OBERTA OAKS

[2] $$ 19 N. Pauahi St. (808-428-1214) robertaoaks.com

With a collection of Mod-vibed dresses and sharp aloha shirts, Roberta Oaks is dedicated to supporting ethical practices and a sustainable economy. Expect eco-fabrics like bamboo jersey and organic cotton mixed with bold colors and funky prints.

S tay

A LI ‘ I B LUFFS W INDWARD B&B [5] $$ 46-251 Ikiiki St. (808-235-1151) aliibluffshawaii.com

Ali‘i Bluffs is located in a quiet, suburban neighborhood and features two rooms, each with a distinct theme. The first room is circus-themed and the second room is Victorian-themed. There is a swimming pool on the premises.

AQUA WAIKIKI J OY

320 Lewers St. (808-441-7781) aquawaikikijoy.com

[4] $$

Housing the popular Kimukatsu restaurant and a karaoke lounge, Waikiki Joy has modern rooms, free WiFi, soaking tubs, and free continental breakfast.

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guides

the 25th annual june 10-15, 2014

H OTEL R ENEW

129 Paoakalani Ave. (808-687-7700) hotelrenew.com

[3] $$

Hotel Renew by Aston offers a place of rest located amidst the bustle of Waikiki. Acclaimed San Francisco designer Jiun Ho carefully crafted the hotel’s interior to appeal to those seeking the island lifestyle.

H YATT R EGENCY WAIKIKI

2424 Kalakaua Ave. (808-923-1234) waikiki.hyatt.com

[4] $$$

The Hyatt Regency is a four-star hotel situated along Waikiki Beach, with views of Diamond Head. According to Condé Nast’s readers, Hyatt Regency’s spa is one of the top 250 spas worldwide.

I HILANI KO O LINA R ESORT & S PA $$$ 92-1001 Olani St. (808-679-0079) ihilani.com

Set on one of four white-sand lagoons, this private retreat exudes a relaxed Hawaiian elegance that only hints at all that awaits you: an award-winning spa, world-class marina, and a championship golf course.

M OANA S URFRIDER [4] $$$ 2365 Kalakaua Ave. (808-922-3111) moana-surfrider.com

In the heart of Waikiki Beach, the Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort & Spa on O‘ahu, introduced the world to Hawaiian hospitality in 1901. Often referred to as the “First lady of Waikiki,” this oceanfront O‘ahu hotel is a legendary landmark. Step back into yesteryear, with all the contemporary amenities and unique services to make your vacation both memorable and enjoyable.

T HE M ODERN H ONOLULU

1775 Ala Moana Blvd. (808-943-5800) themodernhonolulu.com

[4] $$$

The Modern Honolulu is a AAA four-diamond hotel. Every room and suite is a study in white and sleek minimalism, and features down comforters and pillows, a 46-inch LCD TV, and 24-hour room service.

O HANA B EACH R ENTALS

Various locations on O‘ahu (808-923-9099) obrhi.com

[4] $$$

Since 2009, Ohana Beach Rentals Hawaii has been providing its customers with high-end luxury vacation rentals on O‘ahu. With over 100 luxury vacation rentals to choose from, Ohana Beach Rentals is the leading expert when it comes to renting and managing high-end condos, homes, and beach estates.

T HE R OYAL H AWAIIAN

2259 Kalakaua Ave. (808-923-7311) royal-hawaiian.com

S HERATON WAIKIKI

2255 Kalakaua Ave. (808-922-4422) Sheraton-waikiki.com

[4] $$$

The Royal Hawaiian Hotel is a Waikiki Beach landmark resort that is an icon of luxury and romance. The Royal Hawaiian is a member of Starwood Hotels & Resorts’ elite coterie of Luxury Collection properties.

[4] $$$

The Sheraton Waikiki is a modern monument to traditional Hawaiian hospitality. This O‘ahu hotel is perfect for families seeking Hawai‘i activities, couples in search of romance, or weary travelers looking for a rejuvenating escape at Hawai‘i’s famous Waikiki Beach.

V IVE H OTEL WAIKIKI [4] $$

2426 Kuhio Ave. (808-687-2000) vivehotelwaikiki.com

Vive Hotel Waikiki is O‘ahu’s newest lifestyle boutique hotel, offering you an inviting and stylish place to call home while visiting the islands. Warm and friendly service combined with a sophisticated coastal-casual design is the hallmark of the property, making for a quiet and calm retreat just steps from the vibrancy of Waikiki.

WAIKIKI B EACH M ARRIOTT R ESORT & S PA [4] $$$ 2552 Kalakaua Ave. (808-922-6611) marriott.com/hotels/travel/hnlmc-waikiki-beach-marriott-resortand-spa

Retreat to a tropical playground at the Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, one of the first hotel companies to offer equal employee benefits to same-sex couples nationwide and rated one the best places to work for LGBT equality. Situated only steps from world-famous Waikiki Beach and the Pacific Ocean, this Waikiki resort spans 5.2 acres of picturesque beauty and splendor, ideal for a getaway.

WAIKIKI PARC [4] $$

2233 Helumoa Rd. (808-921-7272) waikikiparc.com

In the heart of an exotic and vibrant beachfront city is a chic boutique hotel infused with contemporary style and unpretentious hospitality. Encounter a vibrant alternative to luxury while being immersed in an enticing and captivating world of culture, Nobustyle cuisine, entertainment, shopping, recreation, and relaxation.

WAIKIKI S HORE [4] $$$

2161 Kalia Rd. (808-952-4500) waikikishorecondominiums.com

The Waikiki Shore provides the only condo rentals right on Waikiki Beach. Enjoy a personal tropical residence featuring air conditioning, Internet access, and a private lanai.

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B ACCHUS [4] $$

408 Lewers St. (808-926-4167) bacchus-waikiki.com

Open daily from noon to 2 a.m., Bacchus is the destination for the LGBT community. Check out its daily drink specials and happy hour, which runs from 12–8 p.m.

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h ula’s Bar & l ei s tand

Hula’s is a legend among the gay set everywhere. It is a place where you will surely meet your next best friend among the interesting locals and travelers who use Hula’s as their homebase on O‘ahu. Hula’s offers something for everybody. In the morning, from 10 a.m., Hula’s serves eye-openers like Bloody Marys, mimosas, coffees, and non-alcoholic beverages, alongside a full bar. In the afternoon, Hula’s is the perfect after-beach bar, serving thirst-quenching mai tais, tropicals, mint juleps, ice-cold drafts, and more, and is the perfect spot for checking out views of Diamond Head, the Pacific, and passing surfers. This is also the time Hula’s Café is serving great light fare. After a spectacular sunset, party the night away with some of the edgiest people from around the world until the wee hours of the morning with the newest dance music and videos, seasoned always with your favorite libations and aloha. Bottoms up!

Hula’s Bar & Lei Stand, Waikiki Grand Hotel, 134 Kapahulu Ave., 2nd flr., 808-923-0669.

For more information, visit hulas.com.

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B AR S EVEN [3] $$ 1349 Kapiolani Blvd. (808-955-2640)

Bar Seven is open until 4 a.m. every day, and gets its name from its seven bars surrounding the club’s dance floor. On Saturdays, Bar Seven hosts a drag show from midnight to 1:30 a.m.

C HIKO’ S

[4] $$ 930 McCully St. (808-949-5440) chikostavern.com

Chiko’s Tavern is a casual neighborhood bar with a warm, friendly atmosphere. Chiko’s is an LGBT-friendly venue that has karaoke, a pool table, and dartboards.

F USION

[4] $$ 2260 Kuhio Ave. (808-924-2422) fusionwaikiki.com

Fusion Waikiki is the only gay bar and nightclub in Waikiki that is licensed to serve alcohol until 4 a.m. Every Friday and Saturday the venue hosts drag shows at 9:45 p.m. and male strippers at 12:15 a.m.

Fusion also features nightly drink specials.

LOJA x

[4] $$ 2256 Kuhio Ave. (808-922-1422) lojaxwaikiki.com

LoJax is a comfortable place to watch sporting events on a plethora of flat-screen TVs, but that’s not all it has to offer. LoJax has happy hours, specials, a kitchen open on the weekends until 1:30am, and a patio overlooking Waikiki.

H ULA’ S B AR AND L EI S TAND

134 Kapahulu Ave. (808-923-0669) hulas.com

[4] $$

Hula’s is a world-famous gay bar located on the second floor of the Waikiki Grand Hotel. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 2 a.m., Hula’s offers a Monday–Friday happy hour from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., daily drink specials, and views of Diamond Head and Waikiki Beach.

I N B ETWEEN [4] $$ 2155 Lauula St. (808-926-7060) inbetweenwaikiki.com

In Between is a gay karaoke bar within walking distance of other Waikiki gay bars such as Bacchus, Fusion’s, and Hula’s. It has a noon to 8 p.m. happy hour featuring $3 wells, domestic beers, and wine.

M A x’ S GYM [4] $$ 438 Hobron Ln. (808-951-8233) maxsgym.net

Max’s Gym offers gay and bisexual men a place to work out or just hang out. Its facilities are open from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. Monday through Thursday and 24 hours on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. You must be 18 years of age and purchase a membership to enter. Max’s offers a dry sauna, showers, dark maze, large screen theater, lounge, and gym to its members.

TAPA’ S

407 Seaside Ave. (808-921-2288) tapaswaikiki.com

[4] $$

Tapa’s is open 2 p.m.–2 a.m. from Monday through Friday and 9 a.m.–2 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. Located in the heart of Waikiki, Tapa’s features a lanai, jukebox, karaoke, a neighborhood bar ambiance, and friendly bartenders.

WANG C HUNG ’ S [4] $$

2410 Koa Ave. (808-921-9176) wangchungs.com

Located behind the Hyatt Regency Hotel, this tiny karaoke bar is tucked away in an alley alongside other small local businesses. Wang Chung’s is one of the friendliest bars in Waikiki, features great karaoke, and always has free bear hugs available.

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D IAMOND H EAD B EACH PARK [4]

Park at the crest of Diamond Head Rd. and walk down to the beach

Though the beach is just a narrow strip of sand, Diamond Head has been a favorite of gay beachgoers who are looking for a less-crowded alternative to Waikiki Beach.

H ANAUMA B AY N ATURE P RESERVE [4]

7455 Kalanianaole Hwy. (808-396-4229)

Declared a protected marine life conservation in 1967, this curved bay offers some of the best snorkeling and scuba diving for beginners and advanced alike. Free for residents and military stationed in Hawai‘i.

H ONOLULU M USEUM OF A RT & S PALDING H OUSE [3]

900 S. Beretania St. (808-532-8700); 2411 Makiki Heights Dr. (808-526-1322) honolulumuseum.org

The Honolulu Museum of Art is Hawai‘i’s largest private presenter of visual arts programs, with an internationally recognized collection of more than 50,000 works spanning 5,000 years, and features contemporary works at its Spalding House location. Free every third Sunday and first Wednesday.

‘I OLANI PALACE [3]

364 S. King St. (808-522-0822) iolanipalace.org

The official residence of Hawai‘i’s former monarchy, ‘Iolani Palace is a marvel of opulence, innovation, and political intrigue. Enjoy one of the most spectacular living restorations in all of Polynesia.

K AIMANA B EACH [4]

2863 Kalakaua Ave.

The most popular gay beach, as well as one of the most scenic, Kaimana’s is also a favorite of local families seeking refuge from crowded beaches nearby.

100 lei guides The Valley Isle, filled with an array of natural wonders. eXP erien C e M ore with a vis. Call 1-800-367-3367 or G o to avis. C o M for reservations.

808 B ISTRO [3] $$

2511 S Kihei Rd. (808-879-8008) 808bistro.com

Set in a spacious open verandah capturing beautiful views, here patrons get to experience the savory tastes of two chefs originally famous for 808 Deli’s sandwiches.

C AFÉ M AMBO [6] $$

30 Baldwin Ave. (808- 579-8021) cafemambomaui.com

Located in the eclectic surfer town of Paia, this consistent favorite of locals has been serving up some of the island’s best omelettes, burgers, burritos, and fajitas around.

CAPISCHE? [4] $$$$

555 Kaukahi St. (808-879-2224) capische.com

One of Maui’s top gay-friendly restaurants, this romantic, garden-side restaurant serves a fusion of fare from Southern France and Northern Italy, with impeccable service by a wait staff that’s easy on the eyes.

D UO S TEAK & S EAFOO D [4] $$$

Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr. (808-874-8000) fourseasons.com/maui/dining

Arguably the best steakhouse on Maui, Duo is one out of a handful of restaurants in the U.S. to serve organic Japanese kobe steak. The beautifully marbled steaks melt in your mouth, and the truffle butter popcorn and cotton candy make for cute pre- and post-dining gifts.

F LATBREAD COMPANY [6] $$

89 Hana Hwy. (808-579-8989) flatbreadcompany.com

This casual eatery uses local, fresh, sustainable ingredients on its thin-crust flatbread pizzas.

G AZEBO R ESTAURANT [2] $$ Napili Shores, 5315 Lower Honoapi’ilani Rd. (808-669-5621)

Arresting views in a casual gazebo setting, and its pineapple macadamia nut pancakes, make this restaurant a must. Get there early to beat the line or order to go.

GERARD’S RESTAURANT [2] $$$$

174 Lahainaluna Rd.  (808-661-8939) gerardsmaui.com

Located in Plantation Inn, this award-winning French restaurant combines classic French culinary arts with Maui’s fresh, island products.

H ALI ‘ IMAILE G ENERAL S TORE [6] $$$

900 Hali’imaile Rd. (808-572-2666) bevgannonrestaurants.com/haliimaile

Dine at an old plantation-style home converted into a bright, casual restaurant featuring eclectic American food with Asian undertones.

HONU SEAFOOD AND PIZZA [2] $$$

295 Front St. (808-667-9390) honumaui.com

A quintessential seafood restaurant that also boasts a gluten-free menu, Honu Seafood and Pizza is set in an open and airy environment amidst sails and undulating waves, all wrapped up in simple elegance.

LA PROVENCE [6] $$

3158 Lower Kula Rd (808-878-1313) aprovencekula.com

Nestled in Kula, this fine French dining alcove attracts guests from all over the island. With a separate and substantial crepe menu and a wide selection of pastries behind glass windows, you can almost close your eyes and find yourself in Paris.

L AHAINA G RILL [2] $$$

127 Lahainaluna Rd. (808-667-5117)

lahainagrill.com

This contemporary bistro favorite offers a refined yet comfortable atmosphere. A few menu favorites include the Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb, Maui onion crusted seared ahi, and triple berry pie.

L ANA‘ I C ITY G RILLE [8]

Hotel Lana‘i, 828 Lana‘i Ave. (808-565-7211) hotellanai.com/grille.html

A celebration of Pacific fusion flare developed by Bev Gannon, this charming restaurant offers a tantalizing collection of vibrant flavors inspired by the island’s surrounding organic milieu.

LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP [2] $$

820 Olowalu Village Rd. (808-662-3600) leodas.com

Boasting casual, family-style dining in a comfortable plantation-era atmosphere, Leoda’s features farm-fresh and sustainable ingredients in its handcrafted sandwiches, salads, baked goods, and of course, pie.

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LONGHI’S LAHAINA

888 Front St. (808-667-2288) longhis.com

[2] $$$

Located on historic Front Street, enjoy fresh seafood, succulent steaks, and signature pastas at this original Lahaina location.

M AMA’ S F ISH H OUSE

[6] $$$ 799 Poho Pl. (808-579-8488)   mamasfishhouse.com

Rated as one of Maui’s finest dining establishments, this restaurant is not only celebrated for its seafood dishes but its fine hospitality as well. The staggering seafood menu changes daily according to the daily fresh catch.

MAUI KOMBUCHA

[6] $ 810 Kokomo Rd. (808-575-5233) mauikombucha.com

Perfect for the health food enthusiast, this cafe serving raw food and freshly made kombucha is the cheaper, healthy route to a day-time drunken adventure in case you don’t have the money (or patience) to roam around the lecture-filled wineries on Maui.

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN

10 Wailea Gateway Pl. (808-891-2322) monkeypodkitchen.com

[4] $$

A place for foodies, beer lovers, and families alike, this relaxed restaurant is dedicated to handcrafted food including fresh, island fish, hand-tossed pizzas, and homemade cream pies.

M ULLIGAN ’ S O N THE B LUE

100 Kaukahi St. (808-874-1131) mulligansontheblue.com

[3] $$

This Irish restaurant and bar is known for its live music, especially the dinner shows with Uncle Willie.

NOBU LANA‘I

1 Manele Bay Rd (808-565-2832) noburestaurants.com/lanai

[8] $$$$

While tucked away on a crescent, white-sand beach with a panoramic view of a protected marine preserve, relish in this restaurant’s lavish decor and innovative Japanese cuisine.

PACIFIC’O [2] $$$

505 Front St. (808-667-4341) pacificomaui.com

A dining experience setting the new standard for farm-to-table cuisine, this beachfront restaurant features a contemporary menu from the land and the sea.

PAIA F ISH M ARKET [6] $$

100 Baldwin Ave. (808-579-8030)

paiafishmarket.com

Grab a seat on the bench and enjoy a Paia gem, served with a side of friendly conversation.

PLANTATION HOUSE [2] $$$

2000 Plantation Club Dr. (808-669-6299)

theplantationhouse.com

Known for its casual elegance and island-style ambiance, this award-winning restaurant serves innovative cuisine in a picturesque setting overlooking the fairways.

STAR NOODLE [2] $$

286 Kupuohi St. (808-667-5400)

starnoodle.com

Enjoy fresh, house-made noodles and other Asian specialties, like the Filipino bacon and eggs or the Vietnamese crepe, at this contemporary restaurant.

S TELLA B LUES [3] $$

1279 S. Kihei Rd. (808-874-3779)

stellablues.com

A self-described “Deadhead” restaurant in Kihei featuring live music and events and serving up grain-fed, chemical-free, beef and vegetarian dishes.

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22 K NOTS

3900 Wailea Alanui Dr. (808-874-8000)

[4] $$$$

Find luxury tucked away in the Four Seasons Resort Maui at 22 knots, where collections from Oscar de la Renta, Tory Burch, Jimmy Choo, and more grace breezy shops.

C ABANA [4] $$$

3900 Wailea Alanui Dr. (808-874-8000)

A “three-in-one” store including men’s, women’s, and children’s merchandise, this shop holds exclusive collections fit for any member of the family.

F RONT S TREET [2]

900 Front St.

The main thoroughfare for Lahaina, Front Street is lined with tons of great restaurants, shopping, art galleries, and plenty of sightseeing opportunities. A popular nightlife spot, many bars and clubs dot this block as well. Park and walk around.

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M AUI H ANDS [3] $$$

612 Front St. (808-667-9898); 200 Nohea Kai Dr. (808-667-7997); 1169 Makawao Ave. (808-572-2008); 84 Hana Hwy. (808-579-9245) mauihands.com

Representing more than 300 Hawai‘i artists, these art galleries at four locations across Maui are a great place to gaze at a showcase of fine art and take home distinct Hawaiian gifts.

T HE S HOPS AT WAILEA

3750 Wailea Alanui Dr. (808-891-6770) shopsatwailea.com

[4]

Situated in the Wailea Resort, this shopping center has something for everyone, from luxury-brand stores to local retailers, dining, and several art galleries.

W HALERS V ILLAGE [1] 2435 Ka‘anapali Pkwy. (808-661-4567) whalersvillage.com

Seconds from Ka‘anapali Beach, this outdoor shopping center boasts 90 stores and restaurants as well as the Whalers Village Museum.

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LUMERIA M AUI (6) $$$ 1813 Baldwin Ave. (855-579-8877) lumeriamaui.com

A sanctuary of peace and tranquility that allows guests to recalibrate the mind, restore the body, and return to the whisper of the soul, this luxurious eco-boutique hotel offers daily classes and programs in health and wellness, yoga and meditation, nutrition, detox and cleansing, personal growth, sacred music, cultural experiences, nature, and adventure.

M AUI S UNSEEKER [3] $$ 551 S. Kihei Rd. (808-879-1261) mauisunseeker.com

Maui Sunseeker is the largest LGBT resort on the island. The Sunseeker is an adults-only property, as personal freedom includes a clothing-optional pool/hot tub area and rooftop deck.

P INEAPPLE I NN [2] $$ 3170 Akala Dr. (877-212-6284) pineappleinnmaui.com

Pineapple Inn is a luxury vacation rental property located directly above the exclusive Wailea Beach Resort community, near sandy beaches, excellent shopping, and six golf courses. The well-kept grounds feature a pool, hot tub, manicured lawns, and gardens full of flowering shrubs and tropical fruits.

P LANTATION I NN [2] $$

174 Lahainaluna Rd. (808-667-9225) theplantationinn.com

This premier bed and breakfast is nestled in the historic district of Lahaina, steps from the waterfront and all the excitement it holds, yet far enough to offer a place of respite. Gerard’s, a restaurant combining fresh, island ingredients with French flair, is also housed in the Plantation Inn.

T RAVAASA H OTEL H ANA [5] $$$$

5031 Hana Hwy. (808-248-8211) travaasa.com/hana

Long considered one of the most remarkable resorts in Hawai‘i, Travaasa Hana (formerly known as Hotel Hana Maui) was voted the “No. 1 Resort in Hawai‘i” in Conde Nast Traveler’s 2011 Reader’s Choice Awards. Located in the town of Hana on the eastern tip of Maui, Travaasa Hana is the first resort on the island to greet the rising sun.

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A MBROSIA M ARTINI LOUNGE [3]

Kihei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kihei Rd. (808-891-1011) ambrosiamaui.com

Maui’s official gay bar, this trendy little hole-in-the-wall offers unique mixed drinks, daily entertainment, and specials. Try one of the nibbles with a specialty martini or a selection of high-end wines, beers, and spirits.

S OUTH S HORE T IKI LOUNGE [3]

Kihei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kihei Rd. (808-874-6444) southshoretikilounge.com

Experience a bit of Hawaiian kitsch paired with some of the island’s best sausages, burgers, and pizzas at this gay-friendly bar that remains a favorite place to pass through, have a drink, and dance.

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H ALEAKALA N ATIONAL PARK

Upcountry Maui nps.gov/hale (808-572-4400)

[5]

Comprised of two distinct but equally beautiful areas, there is an array of sights to behold at the “House of the Sun.” At the summit, view some of the most dramatic sunrises at 10,000 feet above sea level, then journey down to the coast to take in majestic waterfalls, serene pools, and lush forests.

H ONOLUA B AY

[1]

North on Highway 31 near mile marker 33; enter the small access road to your left. Part of the Mokuleia Marine Life Conservation District, this bay is great for snorkeling during summer months, especially near cliff faces, and is a famous big-wave surfing spot during the winter.

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Maui oC ean Center

Get up close and personal with sharks, spinner dolphins, Hawaiian monk seals, jellies, worms, stingrays, and hundreds of tropical fishes at the Maui Ocean Center. The intricate wonders of Hawai‘i’s ocean are showcased in more than 60 indoor and outdoor exhibits at this state-of-the-art family attraction. Each exhibit features marine animals living in habitats closely resembling their own natural environments. For the adventurous, descend into the depths of the center’s 750,000 gallon Open Ocean exhibit and become immersed with more than 20 sharks, stingrays, and thousands of tropical reef fish.

Maui Ocean Center, 192 Maalaea Rd., 808-270-7000. For more information, visit mauioceancenter.com.

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‘I AO VALLEY S TATE PARK [2,7]

End of Iao Valley Rd., Highway 32

This historic state park is home to one of Maui’s most recognizable landmarks, the 1,200-foot ‘Iao Needle, which served as a lookout point for King Kamehameha I in his quest to unite the islands. Great beginning hikes and sightseeing.

K A‘ANAPALI B EACH PARK [1]

Off Hwy. 30 in Lahaina

Once an ancient playground for Hawai‘i’s kings, this beautiful white-sand beach is the most gay-friendly beach on the island, with a beautiful swimming spot just a few minutes away from Black Rock.

L ITTLE B EACH [4]

Off Makena Rd.

Beyond its reputation as Maui’s infamous nude beach, Little Beach also offers many paths behind it that lead to hidden areas where people go and have a little outdoor fun. If you’re lucky, you may stumble upon the parties here on Sundays—nude fire dancing, drinking, barbequing, Maui Wowie, and more.

M AKENA S TATE PARK [4]

South of Wailea, near Makena Beach and Golf Resort

One of the largest beaches on Maui, this ocean-side park is known as “Big Beach” for a reason. Caution: The shore breaks can be very dangerous. Paid parking.

M AUI A RTS & C ULTURE C ENTER [7]

1 Cameron Wy. (808-242-2787) mauiarts.org

Connecting artists and community, MACC is a performing arts complex with a wide range of musical and theatre events including symphony, hula, ballet, and taiko drumming.

R OAD TO H ANA [7]

There is much to see and do down the famous 52-mile road to Hana. Be sure to stop at waterfalls and natural pools along the way, as well as The Garden of Eden botanical garden. Don’t try to pack it all into one day; stay the night at one of the treetop cottages or bungalows along the way.

WAIANAPANAPA B LACK S AND B EACH [5]

Highway 360, past mile marker 32

This beach features a remote, wild, low-cliffed volcanic coastline, offering solitude and respite from urban life. Families camp, fish, and occasionally hike the coastal trail that leads into Hana.

108 lei guides The Big Island, home to unrivaled wonders and contrasting worlds. eXP erien C e M ore with a vis. Call 1-800-367-3367 or G o to avis. C o M for reservations.

B IG I SLAND B REWHAUS [1] $$

64-1066 Mamalahoa Hwy. (808-887-1717)

Known as Big Island Brewhouse, this taqueria is known for their beers on tap and fun atmosphere and with Big Island’s paniolo (cowboy) culture serves up some nice Mexican fare.

B IG I SLAND G RILL [5] $$

75-5702 Kuakini Hwy. (808-326-1153)

The secret’s out, Big Island Grill serves up huge servings of localized American home-cooking for ultra-reasonable prices. This place is always packed, from breakfast to dinner, so be prepared to wait.

B UNS IN THE S UN [5] $ 75-5595 Palani Rd. (808-326-2774) bunsinthesunhawaii.com

This Kona bakery in known for having Kona’s best baked goods, including croissants, breads, cakes, and pastries, in addition to deli options for breakfast and lunch.

C AFE 100 [3] $ 969 Kilauea Ave. (808) 935-8683 cafe100.com

Originally opened in 1946, this home-style cafe serves great local favorites with a menu of over 30 different varieties. Enjoy a place where generous portions meet affordable prices.

CANOEHOUSE [1] $$$$

68-1400 Mauna Lani Dr. (808-881-7911) maunalani.com/dining/canoe-house

Offering breathtaking views of the Pacific, this Hawaiian plantation-style establishment focuses on using island-fresh, sustainable ingredients.

DA P OKE S HACK [5] $ 76-6246 Alii Dr. (808-329-7653) dapokeshack.com

Rated the best restaurant in the nation by Yelp in 2014, this nondescript joint offers unique poke bowls and Hawaiian plates.

D ON THE B EACHCOMBER [5] $$$ 75-5852 Ali’i Dr. (808-329-3111)

At the original home of the mai tai, enjoy beachfront dining and a retro tiki-chic atmosphere, including Don’s original mai tai.

H AWAIIAN S TYLE C AFE [1] $ 65-1290 Kawaihae Rd. (808-885- 4295)

This small country kitchen serves up local favorites for breakfast. The pancakes are a great pick, just be prepared for large portions.

H UGGO ' S

[5] $$ 75-5828 Kahakai Rd. (808-329-1493) huggos.com

With its waterfront location, Huggos has earned a reputation as Kona’s premiere restaurant for fresh seafood, oceanfront ambiance, and casual elegance. Favorite menu items include locally caught ahi tuna tower, Big Island farm-raised Kumamoto oysters, and Kailua Bay cioppino.

H ILO H OMEMADE I CE C REAM [3] $ 1477 Kalanianaole Ave. (808-935-3895); 41 Waianuenue Ave. ( 808-959-5959)

kihalanicom/hilohomemadeicecream.htm

Tucked away in a rustic red barn in Waiakea Uka, this family run, gourmet ice cream shop features purely local flavors like Kona coffee and poha berry as well as contemporary flavors like blueberry cheesecake.

I SLAND L AVA J AVA [5] $$ 75-5799 Alii Dr. (808-327-2161); 68-1845 Waikoloa Rd. (808- 769-5202 islandlavajava.com

Voted “best breakfast in Kona,” this bistro is the favorite coffee house of residents, using only grass-fed Big Island beef, organic goat cheeses and other locally grown organic produce. Get there early to snag the yummy pull-apart bread.

I SLAND N ATURALS M ARKET & D ELI [3] $ 1221 Kilauea Ave. (808-935-5533) islandnaturals.com

At this health food store voted best on Hawai‘i nine years in a row, find an award-winning deli and an extensive salad bar.

K ANAKA K AVA [5] $ 75-5803 Alii Dr. (866-327-1660) kanakakava.com

This outdoor bar-like setting serves certified organic kava grown locally on the Big Island. You can also enjoy pupus here, but the main attraction is definitely a bowl of traditional kava.

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K EN ’ S H OUSE OF PANCAKES

1730 Kamehameha Ave. (80-935-8711) kenshouseofpancakes.com

[3] $$

Awarded the best breakfast spot on the Big Island 13 years in a row, this pancake house’s menu available 24 hours a day.

MANTA & PAVILION WINE BAR

62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr. (808-882-5810) princeresortshawaii.com

[1] $$$

With an extensive breakfast buffet and intimate dinner setting including menu items like Hawai‘i Island chevre ravioli and grilled local lamb, this hotel locale offers unparalleled views.

M ERRIMAN ’ S [1] $$$

65-1227 Opelo Rd. (808-885-6822) merrimanshawaii.com

This is a fine-dining experience where you will find the freshest local ingredients paired with the finest wines. Try the Kahua Ranch lamb, Waipio taro and Lone Palm chickpea falafel or the Hawaiian Hogs Butcher’s cut.

M IYO’ S [3] $$

400 Hualani St. (808-935-2273)

Melt in your mouth sashimi and other traditional Japanese dishes make this rustic restaurant near Waiakea Pond one of the best places for Japanese food in Hilo.

O N THE R OCKS [5] $$

75-5824 Kahakai Rd. (808-329-1493) huggosontherocks.com

A casual, toes-in-the-sand restaurant and bar, this ocean-view hangout showcases some of the most talented musicians from around the island alongside eats like kalua pig nachos, Kona fish tacos, and the Mauna Kea burger.

RAYS ON THE BAY

78-128 Ehukai St. (808-930-4949) raysonthebay.com

[5] $$$

Swim in the flavors of local favorites while majestic manta rays swim a few feet away from the tables at this perfect family-friendly restaurant.

TESHIMA’S

[5] $$ 79-7251 Mamalahoa Hwy. (808–322-9140)

This double-stacked home turned restaurant provides the down-toearth charm of this seventy-year-old classic Japanese eatery (there’s a bonsai garden, too).

THREE

FAT

PIGS

& THE THIRSTY WOLF [1] $$ 69-250 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808–339–7145)

Pairing a restaurant and an upstairs gastropub, this innovative combo offers a lake view with original cocktails and an adventurous style that blends classical European culinary techniques with fresh Pacific Rim ingredients for beautifully created, expertly prepared, and artfully presented dishes.

V ILLAGE B URGER

[1] $$ 67-1185 Mamalahoa Hwy. (808-885-7319) villageburgerwaimea.com

Supporting Big Island ranchers one burger at a time, this gourmet burger joint located in Parker Ranch Center uses only hormonefree beef that is ground fresh, hand-shaped daily, and grilled to perfection.

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At Gingerhill Farm Retreat, farmers wake before dawn to meditate, do yoga between tasks, barter for goods, and pray for peace in the living world prior to every shared meal. Like over a dozen organic farms located on the “green belt” of Hawai‘i Island’s Kona coast, Gingerhill is part of a global movement to change the way farming has become increasingly more corporate and environmentally unsustainable. At the five-acre lot and training center, participants can experience a communal farmland, learning about economic efficiency and bartering the food products they’ve cultivated for food products from other groups. With an intern and resident program that trades room and two meals a day Monday through Friday for 20 hours of work, anyone can participate in the education of a more sustainable society.

Gingerhill Farm Retreat, located in Kealakekua, 808-323-3964. For more information, visit gingerhillfarm.com.

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Gin G erhill f ar M r etreat

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A LAPAKI ’ S H AWAIIAN G IFTS

78-6831 Alii Dr. (808-322-2007)

[5] $$$

Carrying arts and crafts by more than 120 Hawaiian artists, from hula instruments to feather headbands to unique jewelry and other original art, Alapaki’s has unique finds to help you remember your trip to Hawai‘i.

K IMURA L AUHALA S HOP

77-996 Hualalai Rd. (808-324-0053)

[5] $$

Rumored to be one of the best places to buy locally handmade items, this lauhala specialty store (lauhala means pandanus leaf, which is dried and woven) sells anything from artist cards to custom-fit and handmade hats.

KONA W INE M ARKET

74-5450 Makala Blvd. (808-329-9400) konawineclub.com

[5] $$$

Choose from thousands of wines, liquors, beers, hundreds of gourmet food items, and the best selection of cigars on the Big Island at this friendly stop.

S EASIDE LU x E AT H UALALAI

72-100 Kaupulehu Dr. (808-325-8549) seasideluxe.com

[5] $$$

The convenience of finding a luxury jewelry store combined with oneof-a-kind furniture can only be accomplished at this boutique filled with enticing items.

S IG Z ANE DESIGN S

122 Kamehameha Ave. (808-935-7077) sigzane.com

[5] $$$

Founded and staffed by family who are cultural practitioners and designers of contemporary aloha attire, Sig Zane Designs provides a unique experience in addition to beautiful alohawear.

Lava Lava Beach Club is a gay owned and operated getaway located in Anaeho‘omalu Bay in legendary Waikoloa Beach Resort. Their oceanfront restaurant is open for lunch and dinner and is perfect for cocktails at sunset, delicious dinners or fun gatherings with friends and family. Lava Lava Beach Club cottages include all the comforts of a private home, the convenience of a beachfront hotel, and the excitement of a high-end surf shack. Media is taking note. Articles about Waikoloa Beach Resort’s newest place to stay have been published in Out Magazine, Modern Luxury Hawaii, Sunset Magazine, The New York Times, TravelAge West, Fodor’s, and Seattle Gay News. Here is what the editor at Trip Styler had to say: “I had a hunch I’d love Lava Lava Beach Club before I even arrived, based on the name and logo alone! … My suspicions were correct—and then some. … The cottages’ contempo-aloha interiors make you want to split your day between beach, bed, and shower.”

Lava Lava Beach Club, 69-1081 Ku‘uali‘i Pl., 808-769-5282. For more information, visit lavalavabeachclub.com.

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S

A BSOLUTE PARADISE B&B

12-118 Kipuka St. (808-965-1828) absoluteparadise.tv

[7] $$

This gay owned and operated bed and breakfast has been welcoming guests to Hawai‘i Island for over 12 years and is just a short stroll away from a gayfriendly black-sand beach.

H ALE O HIA

11-3968 Hale Ohia Rd. (808-455-3803) haleohia.com

[4] $$

Hale Ohia is a historic estate located on several acres of exquisitely landscaped grounds, just one mile from Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. Built in 1931, Hale Ohia is comprised of a main residence, guest cottages, a gardener’s cottage, and numerous support structures.

K ALAEKILOHANA

94-2152 South Point Rd. (808-939-8052) kau-hawaii.com

[6] $$

Gay owned and operated, this charming inn is centrally located between Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park and Pu‘uhonua ‘O Honaunau National Historic Park. The inn features oversized suites with private bathrooms, romantic walk-in rain showers, warm hardwoods, and a complimentary, locally sourced continental breakfast.

K ALANI O CEANSIDE R ETREAT [7] $$

12-6860 Kalapana Kapoho Rd. (808-965-7828) kalani.com

For more than 30 years, this gay-owned retreat has been a soulful place of refuge and renewal for international guests. Kalani is an educational nonprofit organization that celebrates Hawai‘i, nature, culture, and wellness.

K A‘AWA LOA P LANTATION [5] $$

82-5990 Napoopoo Rd. (808-323-2686) kaawaloaplantation.com

Located in the heart of the Kona coffee belt, this 5-acre estate and coffee farm is nestled in tropical surroundings directly above Kealakekua Bay.

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“Manta ray heaven” is what they call it, and this dive spot is nothing short of its name. As the glowing sun sets, it’s hard to even fathom the extraordinary experience that lies beneath the surface of the waters at Ho‘ona Bay. Plunging into the dark waters, nothing can prepare you for the dive rave that you encounter. Kona is the only place in the world that this spectacular feeding show can be seen. Years ago, the hotels around the area decided to use lights to attract plankton, thus luring manta rays to the waters surrounding their resorts. The mantas grew accustomed to this artificial environment, and manta ray heaven was born. So if you are heading to Hawai‘i Island, descend the depths with Kona Honu Divers, which offers manta ray night dives for both scuba divers and snorkelers.

Kona Honu Divers, 74-5583 Luhia St., 808-324-4668. For more information, visit konahonudivers.com.

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Manta r ay h eaven

THE MASK-QUERADE BAR

[5] $ 75-5660 Kopiko St. (808-329-8558) themask-queradebar.com

Hawai‘i’s only true gay bar outside of Honolulu, “Mask” is a laid-back spot catering mostly to locals, but the outgoing staff here always greets visitors, gay and straight, with open arms. This bar in a small shopping plaza offers karaoke and occasional live drag shows and music.

M Y B AR KONA

[5] $$ 74-5606 Luhia St. (808-331-8789) mybarkona.com

While not as gay-frequented as Mask, this lively—if a bit dive-y— nightclub in a nondescript industrial neighborhood does have a fairly strong LGBT following (including many from the local drag community), and has hosted Hawaiian Pride Festival events.

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B IG I SLAND B EES

[5] 82-5780 Napoopoo Rd. (808-328-7318 ) bigislandbees.com

Enter the world of bees and beekeeping and learn about how some of the tastiest, organic, single floral honey in the world is made, from viewing actual hives to how the hives are organized to what makes bees so special.

H AKALAU F OREST N ATIONAL R EFUGE [3] fws.gov/hakalauforest (808-443-2300)

Dust off your hiking boots, break out the rain gear, and contribute to the reforestation effort. Spend the weekend giving back with this unique cultural experience. Go bird watching and see beautiful indigenous birds.

H ULUALOA F OUNDATION FOR A RTS [5] 78-6670 Mamalahoa Hwy. (808-322-3362) donkeymillartcenter.org

With classes and workshops, community outreach, cultural events, and art exhibitions, Holualoa Foundation provides a stimulating environment that helps individuals expand their artistic abilities.

‘I MILOA A STRONOMY C ENTER [3]

600 ‘Imiloa Pl. (808-969-9703) imiloahawaii.org

This comprehensive educational facility showcases the connections between the rich traditions of Hawaiian culture and the groundbreaking astronomical research conducted at Mauna Kea featuring a planetarium complex and extensive exhibit hall.

K AHENA B EACH [7] On Hwy. 137 at mile marker 19

A lava rock trail leads to this small, secluded black sand beach popular with nude sunbathers. Be careful of the strong current and undertow.

K APOHO T IDE P OOLS [7]

Parking available fronting the Waiopae Tide Pools Marine Life Conservation

Boasting a colorful coral bed and plenty of fish, these tide pools amidst lava rock are interconnected, allowing you to snorkel from pool to pool. Nice even without snorkel gear, just beware that lava rock is sharp and there is no sand for sunbathing.

K EALAKEKUA B AY [5]

In Napo‘opo‘o at end of Beach Rd. off Government Rd. from Pu‘uhonua Rd.

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this picturesque bay is where Captain Cook first stepped foot on Hawai‘i. It’s great for snorkeling and kayaking through one of the three companies approved by the state.

KONA COFFEE FARMERS [5] konacoffeefarmers.org

Visit one of the many Kona coffee farms on the island to learn about where the world famous coffee is grown and see the stages of production from picking to roasting to tasting.

O NIZUKA C ENTER FOR I NTERNATIONAL A STRONOMY

Saddle Rd. and Mauna Kea Access Rd. (808-935-6268)

ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis/

You haven’t seen stars until you’ve seen them from the Onizuka Center, located at the 9,300-foot level of Mauna Kea. Free nightly stargazing and stargazing tours.

P UNALU ‘ U B LACK S AND B EACH [2]

Off Hwy. 11, past mile marker 55

The most famous black sand beach on the island, Punalu‘u is the most expansive and accessible black sand beach.

P U ‘ UHONUA O H ONAUNAU N ATIONAL H ISTORICAL PARK [5]

South of Kealakekua Bay nps.gov/puho

This place of refuge for ancient Hawaiian lawbreakers is now a national historic park home to archeological sites like temples, royal fishponds, sledding tracks, and ancient coastal villages.

S OUTH P OINT G REEN S AND B EACH [5]

Hwy. 11 between mile markers 69 and 70

Though access is only gained on foot or by four-wheel-drive vehicle, this green sand beach is one of the most unusual and prettiest beaches on the island.

WAILEA B AY B EACH 67 [1]

This unofficial gay, often-nude beach marine preserve, nicknamed “Beach 67” and “Beach 69,” offers an array of sights, including great snorkeling conditions.

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h awai‘i v ol C anoes n ational Park

Home to the earth’s most massive volcano, Mauna Loa, and the world’s most active volcano, Kilauea, a trip to Volcanoes National Park is a must. In addition to the active lava flow, check out Pu‘u Loa Petroglyphs, Thurston lava tube, Crater Rim Drive, and more than 150 miles of hiking trails.

Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park is located 45 minutes south of Hilo, 808-985-6000.

For more information, visit nps.gov/havo.

118 lei guides
120 lei guides The Garden Isle, a picturesque island where adventure awaits. eXP erien C e M ore with a vis. Call 1-800-367-3367 or G o to avis. C o M for reservations.

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B AR ACUDA [2] $$$ 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy. (808-826-7081) restaurantbaracuda.com

With cuisine inspired by the Mediterranean regions of Europe, including Southern France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal, this tapas bar is one of Kaua‘i’s coolest places to relax with friends and sip some wine.

D ELI & B READ CONNECTION [4] $$ 3-2600 Kaumualii Hwy. (808-245-7115)

Located next to Macy’s in Kukui Grove, this is the place to go for sandwiches made with homemade breads baked fresh daily, though the wait can be somewhat long.

G AYLORD’ S AT K ILOHANA [4] $$$ 3-2087 Kaumualii Hwy. (808-245-9593) gaylordskauai.com

Using foods found in its backyard garden and from farmers around the island, this farm-totable restaurant pays careful attention to the seasons, tweaking menus each week.

H ANALEI G OURMET [2] $$ 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy. (808-826-2524)

A quick and easy spot for lunch, this casual eatery serves sandwiches made on fresh baked bread, alongside classic American, gourmet eats.

H AMURA’ S S AIMIN [4] $ 2956 Kress St. (808-245-3271)

Soft, slight chewy saimin noodles make this nofrills mom-and-pops joint a favorite among locals. Don’t leave without trying the barbecue teriyaki sticks and lilikoi pie.

H UKILAI L ANAI [3] $$$ 520 Aleka Lp. (808-822-0600) hukilaukauai.com

Enjoy handcrafted, scratch-made cuisine utilizing products from the bounty that Kaua‘i has to offer alongside nightly entertainment

J OSSELIN ’ S TAPAS B AR AND G RILL [5] $$$ Kukui‘ulaShopping Center, 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka St. (808-742-7117) josselins.com

This tapas bar features dishes inspired by all parts of the world, using as many locally grown ingredients as possible.

K AUAI G RILL

[2] $$$$

The St. Regis Princeville Resort, 5520 Ka Haku Rd. (808-826-9644) kauaigrill.com

Sweeping views of Hanalei Bay and Bali Hai only heighten the dining experience at this St. Regis restaurant boasting a curated selection of artful appetizers and entrées from famed chef JeanGeorge Vongerichten.

KOLOA R UM CO [4] $$ 3-2087 Kaumualii Hwy. (808-246-8900) koloarum.com

At Hawai‘i’s first and only rum tasting room, located on the beautiful grounds of the historic, learn about the history of Kaua‘i’s sugarcane from which Koloa’s rums are made, and enjoy complimentary samples the award-winning rum.

L IVING F OODS M ARKET & C AFE [5] $$

Kukui‘ulaVillage, 2829 Ala Kalanikauamaka (808-742-2323) livingfoodskauai.com

Shop at the island’s largest selection of organic, sustainable, and locally-grown produce and don’t forget to grab lunch in the market’s cafe-style restaurant, which serves a simple European-style menu.

M ERRIMAN ’ S F ISH H OUSE [5] $$$ Kukui‘ula Shopping Center, 2829 Ala Kanaikaumaka St. (808-742-8385) merrimanshawaii.com

One of the pioneering restaurants of the farm-totable concept, Merriman’s serves only the freshest products, at least 90 percent of which are locally grown or caught using sustainable methods.

OASIS ON THE B EACH

4-820 Kuhio Hwy. (808-833-9332) oasiskauai.com

[3] $$$

A breathtaking oceanfront location right on the beach, Oasis utilizes local sustainable sources for 90 percent of their ingredients.

P OSTCARDS C AFÉ [2] $$$

5-5075 Kuhio Hwy. (808-826-1191) postcardscafe.com

Set in a charming setting, Postcards is known for freshly prepared seafood and gourmet vegetarian cuisine using no refined sugar or chemical additives.

R ED S ALT

[5] $$$

Koa Kea Hotel & Resort, 2251 Poipu Rd. (808742-4288)

koakea.com/dining-at-red-salt

At this restaurant, beautiful oceanfront dining and contemporary upscale cuisine celebrate the fresh seafood and produce available in Hawai‘i.

RUMFIRE POIPU BEACH [2] $$$ 2440 Hoonani Rd. (808-742-1661) rumfirekauai.com

Kaua‘i’s newest hot spot, this festive lounge offers a 180-degree view of the ocean and an innovative menu that artfully blends Hawaiianrooted cuisine with global influences.

ST. REGIS BAR [2] $$$ 5520 Ka Haku Rd. (808-826-9644)

Take in one of the most spectacular sunset views in all of Hawai‘i at this upscale bar while enjoying live music and an innovative small-plate selection by the chefs of Kauai Grill.

TIDEPOOLS RESTAURANT [5] $$$ 1571 Poipu Rd. (808-240-6456) kauai.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining.html

Embrace the tempting combination of contemporary Hawaiian cuisine served in a unique Hawai‘i setting right on the water.

TORTILLA R EPUBLIC [5] $$ 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka St. (808-742-8884)

At this modern Mexican grill and margarita bar, enjoy unexpected flavors utilizing all-natural meats and organic, locally grown produce in a contemporary, chic setting.

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A NINI B EACH

Following Rte. 56 from Kilauea town toward Hanalei

[2]

This tranquil 3-mile beach is protected by Hawai‘i’s largest coral reef. Windsurfers take advantage of the lake-like waters and families enjoy swimming and snorkeling.

D ONKEY B EACH

Hwy. 56 between mile markers 11 and 12

[3]

A short hike off a dirt road brings you to this secluded, white-sand, crescentshaped beach, popular among surfers and gays, including the occasional nudist, on the far end.

H ANALEI B AY

Aku Rd. and Weke Rd.

[2]

A huge, crescent-shaped bay marks one of Hawai‘i’s most scenic beaches, where mountains reflect off the water’s mirror-like surface. The Hanalei Pier is located on the east side of the beach near where Hanalei River enters the ocean.

K ALAPAKI B EACH

Located at the entrance of Nawiliwili Harbor

[4]

Kalapaki Beach is located in Kaua‘i’s main town of Lihu‘e. A concession on the beach offers surfing lessons, catamaran cruises, and sailboat rentals. The beach is also popular among volleyball players, with several courts located along the beach.

K AUA‘ I M USUEM [4]

4428 Rice St. (808-245-6931)

kauaimuseum.org

There are two floors of permanent exhibits pertaining to the history of Kaua‘i, from the birth of the island up through the territorial period. Guided public tours are free with paid admission, and the first Saturday of every month is “Family Free Saturday” free admission.

K AUAPEA (Secret Beach) [2]

Turn toward the ocean on Kalihiwai Rd.; take second dirt road to the end Known for its size, seclusion, and beauty, this gay beach, which is only accessible after a 15-minute hike, stuns its visitors with its broad white sand beach, turquoise waters, arresting cliff views, and nude sunbathers.

K E ‘ E B EACH

[2]

Located literally at the end of the road, Ke‘e Beach’s calm serene lagoon is teaming with fish, making for one of the best snorkeling spots on the island. A short walk towards Haena provides stunning views of the Na Pali Coast.

K ILOHANA P LANTATION

3-2087 Kaumualii Hwy. (808-245-5608) kilohanakauai.com

[4]

Ride a historic train, hike through a rainforest, taste island-made rum, and enjoy one of the island’s best luaus at Kilohana Plantation, located within the historic Gaylord Wilcox Mansion.

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G alerie 103

Those looking for original contemporary and modern works of art will not be disappointed with galerie 103, owned and run Bruna Stude, a photographer originally hailing from the Croatian port town of Split on the Dalmation Coast. Her earliest memories are of the Adriatic Sea, and water continues to influence her work, as well as global environmental issues. galerie 103 represents some of Hawai‘i’s leading artists, with exhibits changing regularly in the 2,400-square-foot space. Adjoining 103 is galerie +, where there is a unique selection of art books, works on paper, art furnishings, small sculptures, and one-of-a-kind art toys. For Stude, art is a tool to expand and correct the lingering idea that Hawaiian art is merely focused on the celebration of natural beauty.

galerie 103, Kukui‘ula Village, 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka St., 808-742-0103. For more information, visit galerie103.com.

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L IMAHULI G ARDEN [2]

5 Kuhio Hwy. (808-826-1053)

ntbg.org/gardens/limahuli.php

Extending across 1,000 acres of verdant tropical valley that span three distinct ecological zones, Limahuli Garden and Preserve (also known as Bali Hai) was named best natural botanical garden in the United States by the American Horticultural Society.

LYDGATE S TATE PARK B EACH [4]

Off Hwy. 56, five miles north of Lihu‘e

With its calm waters and with lifeguards present, this state park remains popular with families, as well as for gays on the south side between Wailua Golf Course and the condos.

P OIPU B EACH PARK [6] 2250 Kuai Rd.

On Kaua‘i’s sunny south shore is one of the island’s most popular beaches. Named best beach by the Travel Channel and Dr. Beach, Poipu accommodates nearly every type of beach activity.

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K AUA‘ I M ARRIOTT R ESORT [4] $$$

Kalapaki Beach, 3610 Rice St. (808-245-5050) marriott.com/hotels/travel/lihhi-kauai-marriottresort

Situated on Kalapaki Bay and offering a wide variety of recreational activities, a superior beach experience, and 18 holes of Jack Nicklausdesigned golfing, this resort was also one of the first hotel companies to offer equal employee benefits to same-sex couples nationwide and was rated one the best places to work for LGBT equality.

M AHINA K AI B&B [3] $$ 4933 Aliomanu Rd. (808-822-9451)

Mahina Kai opened in 1985 as an exclusively gay bed and breakfast, but has since modified its policy to welcome everyone with aloha. Mahina Kai is still gay-owned and offers amenities such as free WiFi, an island breakfast, and laundry service.

S T. R EGIS P RINCEVILLE [2] $$$$

5520 Ka Haku Rd. (808-826-9644)

stregisprinceville.com

Marking the the legendary brand’s first resort in Hawai‘i, St. Regis Princeville introduces an unparalleled level of sophistication and serene luxury to one of the most remarkable destinations in the world. Located on 9,000 acres in Hanalei, this luxury resort is a bastion of tropical sophistication and features cuisine that celebrates local flavors and an array of diverse activities.

W HALER’ S COVE

R ESORT

2640 Puuholo Rd. (808-742-7571) whalerscoveresort.com

[5] $$$

This private collection of distinctly spacious and sophisticated Poipu beach condo rentals is conveniently located alongside the ocean, featuring fully-equipped kitchens as well as views of the Pacific.

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A LOHA ExCHANGE

2-2535 Kaumuali‘i Hwy. thealohaexchange.com

[5] $$

Take home a bit of aloha spirit from the Aloha Exchange store, where a variety of local designers display artwork that ranges from clothing to handmade signs.

M ARTA’ S B OAT [3] $$ 4-770 Kuhio Hwy. (808-822-3926) martasboat.com

Cover loved ones with matching aloha prints and take home beautiful landscapes with these locally-made quilts and accessories.

O SKAR’ S B

OUTIQUE

[2] $$ 4270 Kilauea Rd. (808-828-6858) oskarsboutique.com

Constantly on the hunt for items that reflect the relaxed island culture, the owners of Oskar’s have put together a destination for both visitors and locals alike.

THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA

[5] 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka (808-742-0234) theshopsatkukuiula.com

A village of artful provisioners, the shops are both a lively diversion and a dynamic connection to Kaua‘i. Along with varied shops and restaurants, there’s the fresh fun of the weekly culinary market and the monthly art walk, sponsored by the many eclectic galleries in the village.

ALOHA BEARS

Whether you consider yourself a bear or an admirer, building strong bonds with the community, land, and sea are just some of the things offered by Aloha Bears. For more information, visit thealohabears.com.

BLAZING SADDLES HAWAII

This free LGBT country-western dance club meets every Tuesday at the Ala Wai Golf Course Clubhouse for line-dancing, two-step, and waltzing fun. For more information, visit blazingsaddleshi.org.

E x PRESSION!

Published monthly since 1998, this print and digital magazine inspires authenticity in the lives of Hawai‘i’s gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender community. For more information, call 808-7228027 or visit expression808.com.

EQUALITY HAWAII

Equality Hawaii nurtures a discussion of relevant topics that are alive in the LGBT community in Hawai‘i today and aims to secure equal rights through work with the community as well as legislators. For more information, call 808-221-0799 or visit equalityhawaii.org.

GAY MEN’S CHORUS OF HONOLULU

Since 2012, Honolulu’s first openly gay musical organization has been providing Honolulu with men’s choral concerts in a wide variety of styles. For more information, visit gmcofh.org.

GREGORY FOUNDATION

This foundation offers support for those who live with HIV/AIDS by providing a safe and healthy living environment as a form of health care. Gregory House is located at 200 N. Vineyard Blvd., Ste. A310. For more information call 808592-9022 or visit gregoryhouse.org.

HAWAII LGBT LEGACY FOUNDATION

With a main goal of bringing the community together, this foundation empowers and unifies Hawai‘i’s LGBT organizations through grant support, at-risk youth housing, and assisted living for elders. For more information, visit hawaiilgbtlegacyfoundation.com.

HONOLULU FRONTRUNNERS

This club offers weekly runs on Saturdays as well as other activities for anyone that has an interest in running or walking. For more information, visit honolulufrontrunners.org.

HONOLULU GAY AND LESBIAN CULTURAL FOUNDATION

hglcf.org

Since 1997, this foundation has instilled a sense of pride and community by giving back to the community with events such as the Honolulu Rainbow Film Festival, one of the longestrunning and well-respected LGBT film festivals in the country. For more information, call 808-675-8428.

HONOLULU MEN’S DINING CLUB

If fine dining and lively conversations with other likeminded men are your thing, then this club is for you. For more information, call 808-955-3134 or email info@hmdclub.com.

HONOLULU PRIDE

This organization is dedicated to bringing together Honolulu’s LGBT community to honor and celebrate pride with events like the Honolulu Pride Parade. For more information, call 808672-9050 or visit honolulupride.org.

HULUMANU FOUNDATION

This foundation aims to use appropriate language associated with the LGBT and Asian Pacific Islander populations in schools and in public by improving social, health, and legal issues that impact equality in Hawai‘i. For more information, call 808-723-9154 or visit hulumanufoundation.org.

KULIA NA MAMO

This organization provides substance abuse prevention, food bank services, job search assistance, and information on healthy living for the transgender community. For more information, call 808-791-2020 or visit kulianamamo.org.

LESBIAN & GAY BUSINESSES OF HAWAII

LGB Hawaii strives to build stronger connections between gay-friendly businesses in Hawai‘i, as well as increase visibility and promote growth for businesses that offer support to the LGBT community. For more information, call 808-216-6965 or visit lgbhawaii.com.

LGBT CENTER WAIKIKI

This recently opened center in Waikiki offers services such as assisted living for elders, small grants, and an integrated home for at-risk youth. LGBT Center Waikiki is located at 310 Paoakalani Ave. For more information, visit them on Facebook.

LIFE FOUNDATION

This organization is dedicated to stopping the spread of HIV/AIDS by offering free testing as well as assisting people living with HIV/AIDS. Life Foundation is located at 677 Ala Moana Blvd. For more information, call 808-521-2437 or visit lifefoundation.org.

LIKE HIKE

Explore the outdoors with likeminded individuals by joining one of this club’s Sunday hikes. For more information, call 808-455-8193.

ODYSSEY HAWAII

Odyssey Hawaii is an online magazine serving Hawai‘i’s diverse gay lifestyle for the past 19 years. For more information, visit odysseyhawaii.com.

PRIDE GUIDE

A guide to accommodations, restaurants, shopping, cultural events, and entertainment for the LGBT traveler. For more information, visit gogayhawaii.com.

RAINBOW FAMILY 808

This nonprofit resource organization is dedicated to promoting understanding and equality within Hawai‘i’s schools, churches, and families. For more information, visit rainbowfamily808.com.

126 lei guides c o MM unity r e S ource S
a hui hou , until we M eet a G ain
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Waimea Bay on O‘ahu's North Shore

M a G e B y John Hook

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