Lei - 2

HAWAI‘I FOR THE LGBT TRAVELER

EXPLORE: NINE DAYS IN SALT

ARTS: GAYE CHAN'S " EATING IN PUBLIC"

FOOD: BRUNCH WISELY

Lei are the traditional Hawaiian symbol of love, friendship, appreciation, and aloha.

For generations, the people of Hawai‘i have used lei to express these emotions, strengthen relationships, and give thanks. Lei is an annual LGBT travel publication that welcomes, entertains, and gives thanks to Hawai‘i travelers before, during, and after their journeys.

ONLINE

Want to stay in the know with what’s happening around Hawai‘i? Find more stories online at leiculture.com.

GET OUT WITH ROXY OTM

Discover Lei columnist Roxy OTM’s secrets to a perfect progressive dinner date in Waikiki, with stops at Nobu Waikiki, Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Kaiwa, Roy’s Waikiki, and Lewers Lounge at Halekulani.

BTS WITH KUMU HINA

Go behind the scenes of docu-drama Kumu Hina , which follows Hinaleimoana Kwai Kong Wong-Kalu, cultural advocate, transgender woman, and director of culture at Hawaiian values-based public charter school Halau Lokahi. Image courtesy of Kai Markell.

THE BOYS OF BARRIO VINTAGE

Barrio Vintage shop owners Bradley Rhea and Jonathan Saupe inspire locals and visitors alike with a wide array of fantastic vintage finds at their location in the historic Chinatown neighborhood.

THE MAKING OF A CHEF

From the streets of Thailand to Hawaiian Airlines’ kitchen, discover how chef Chai Chaowasaree has become a pioneer in the Hawai‘i restaurant scene.

KEEP UP WITH US ONLINE:

WEBSITE: LEICULTURE.COM

FACEBOOK: /LEICULTURE

TWITTER: @LEICULTURE

INSTAGRAM: @LEICULTURE

Thank you for reading Lei. If you had the chance to pick up a copy of the first issue, we hope you enjoyed it.

We weren’t entirely sure how the debut of our LGBT travel magazine dedicated to Hawai‘i would be received, but thankfully, the response was overwhelmingly positive! Your comments and support are much appreciated and have encouraged us to continue sharing the culture of our island home.

We’ve developed new feature stories in this issue, but our message remains the same. Ever-present is the theme of diversity. Hawai‘i is rich with it, both in nature and in community. Due to its size and location, Hawai‘i has had the benefit of serving as a melting pot to a degree not yet seen in most of the world. As a result, the stories we publish are naturally a mix of cultures, points of view, and personal experiences. Hawai‘i LGBT folks started blending with the mainstream community a long time ago, and we invite you to experience it for yourself.

Our islands have enjoyed an upswing in LGBT tourism since the December 2013 passing of the Hawai‘i Marriage Equality Act. All estimates for the number of same-sex weddings were quickly surpassed, and our local community couldn’t be more excited about it. More than ever before, gay travelers are experiencing what we’ve known for a long time: Hawai‘i is beautiful, friendly, and all-around amazing.

Included in this issue and published online throughout the year are spotlights on LGBT-owned and other businesses of interest, plus features on weddings, festivals, arts, adventure, and much more. We hope you enjoy it and share it with your friends and family. Please visit our website for additional feature stories and year-round updates on the best LGBT events in the state.

If you happen to make the trip, please share your experiences with us. We enjoy hearing from you and hope to see you around soon.

Aloha,

Joe Bock Publisher @joebock

@leiculture leiculture.com

PUBLISHER

Joe V. Bock

JOE@NELLAMEDIAGROUP.COM

EDITOR

Lisa Yamada

LISA@NELLAMEDIAGROUP.COM

ARTS & CULTURE DIRECTOR

Ara Feducia

MANAGING EDITOR

Anna Harmon

PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR

John Hook

PHOTO EDITOR

Samantha Hook

COPY EDITOR

Andy Beth Miller

CONTRIBUTORS

Kelli Gratz

Jeff Hawe

Ada Mayflower

Alan McNarie

Sarah Ruppenthal

Blaine Tolentino

John Vavricka

MASTHEAD

IMAGES

Mark Ghee Lord Galacgac

Jeff Hawe

Jonas Maon

EDITORIAL INTERN

Rachel Halemanu

SPECIAL THANKS TO:

Keane Akao

Debbie Anderson

Elizabeth Churchill

Daniel Chun

Scott Dodd

Page Gaylord

Jack Law

Daniel Nahoopii

Kelly Sanders

Clint Schroeder

Eric Von Platen Luder

PRESIDENT & CEO

Jason Cutinella

GROUP PUBLISHER

Mike Wiley

MIKE@NELLAMEDIAGROUP.COM

MARKETING & ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Keely Bruns

OPERATIONS DIRECTOR

Jill Miyashiro

JILL@NELLAMEDIAGROUP.COM

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Gary Payne

CREATIVE & INNOVATION DIRECTOR

Matt Honda

DESIGNER

Michelle Ganeku

CREATIVE & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Carrie Shuler

DESTINATION

MARKETING HAWAII

Debbie Anderson

PUBLISHED BY

NELLA MEDIA GROUP

36 N. HOTEL ST., SUITE A HONOLULU, HI 96817

NELLAMEDIAGROUP.COM

© 2015 by Nella Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted without the written consent of the publisher. Opinions are solely those of the contributors and are not necessarily endorsed by Nella Media Group.

LETTERS OF ALOHA

Message from Governor David Ige

On behalf of the people of Hawai‘i, we say aloha and welcome to the readers of Lei magazine.

Throughout the state, there are many experiences that await your exploration. From sandy beaches to lush rainforests to fiery lava flows, visitors have a variety of options to choose from as they set out to discover our islands’ unsurpassed natural beauty. This variety comes alive in our charming small towns and exciting resort areas, offering visitors an array of experiences, from cultural activities to shopping and sightseeing, as well as world-class dining.

What truly makes our islands special is the “aloha spirit,” embodied in our people. It is a philosophy of sharing and taking care of one another and the environment. Aloha, in its purest form, means kindness, unity, patience, and respect.

In Hawai‘i, we believe in fairness, justice, and human equality. We value every member of our ‘ohana (family), and it is in the spirit of aloha that we welcome you to join us in paradise.

With warm regards,

David Y. Ige Governor State of

Hawai‘i

Message from the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority

On behalf of the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority, the state’s tourism agency, we invite you to discover firsthand what makes our destination so special.

A vacation to the Hawaiian Islands offers the perfect opportunity for relaxation, respite, and rejuvenation. We invite you to enjoy our year-round tropical climate, diverse landscapes, multiethnic cultures, and an aloha spirit that lures visitors back to our shores year after year.

Each with its own unique personality, our six major islands, O‘ahu, Maui, Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i Island, Lana‘i and Moloka‘i, offer a unique mix of activities, dining options, and accommodations that will exceed your travel needs.

We look forward to welcoming you and creating memories that will last a lifetime.

Aloha,

Ronald Williams Chief Executive Officer Hawai‘i Tourism Authority

NINE DAYS IN SALT

Maui to O‘ahu by way of adventure and sail.

TEXT AND IMAGES BY Jeff Hawe

It was lunchtime on a Wednesday. I was taking a break from woodshop work when the call from my friend Quintin Ciszek came: “Can you make it to Maui tonight? The winds are looking favorable to set sail tomorrow morning. We should be back to O‘ahu by Sunday evening.”

Quintin and his wife, Macy, had arrived in the Hawaiian Islands just a week prior, having sailed from Mexico on their open-ocean-outfitted 30-foot sloop, The Moondog. I was dying to jump aboard and spend a few days cruising with them, listening to tales of their travels. I called our mutual friend Doug, who told me he’d booked his flight already. It was going to be a voyage not to be missed.

Initial plans were to make it from Maui to O‘ahu in four days. But as our crew unplugged from everyday rigors, the only thing we cast aside was any set plan. Day one brought a rough sail into headwinds and choppy seas. We arrived to Manele Bay on Lana‘i feeling like salty Maui-style potato chips. Abandoning ship, I dove over the side.

As my body slid into the deep cerulean blue water, tranquility overtook my senses. Underwater, I could hear the mesmerizing songs of whales, like mythical Sirens coaxing me to stay under forever. From that moment forth, I had no care for any sort of schedule.

Day two was spent exploring the splendors of Lana‘i. We dove the vibrant reefs and caves off Leinohaunui Point and hitchhiked around Lana‘i City with locals. The slow pace of the country lifestyle put us at ease. By day three, we were itching to surf, and set course for Maui’s famed Honolua Bay. After a fun six-hour sail, we arrived on the shores of the Valley Isle in time to catch the end of a fading swell. After two days of surfing Honolua’s glassy point break, it was time to move on. It was Sunday, and O‘ahu was miles away. Why not head back to Lana‘i? We were cruising, after all.

Provisions were low, which meant restocking the galley was essential. A visit to land—in this case, the nearest town of Ka‘anapali—was in order. It was a Team Zissou-style grocery run. We beached our zodiac and made quick moves to the store, leaving nearby tourists staring in bewilderment. Once supplied, we raced the setting sun

for Lana‘i on favorable winds, arriving just as that bright star dropped behind Mt. Lana‘ihale, the island’s highest scenic peak. We barbecued and toasted vigorously to our new anchorage. Post-dinner card-game wagers resulted in losers jumping overboard sans clothing. This escalated to a dance-like-no-one’s-watching frenzy and skinnydipping into the wee hours of the night. We were wild and free on the high seas.

Washing off the previous night’s exuberance, we set out early to explore our surroundings on sunny day six. The reef beneath our boat was brilliant, the beaches deserted and rife with palm trees filled with tasty coconuts. We passed three days at our leeward anchorage on the east side of Lana‘i, sheltered from the howling west winds. There was never a dull moment. We spent our days swimming, spearfishing, diving, walking along the shoreline, climbing coconut palms, and barbecuing on the beach. Humpback whale sightings became so commonplace that excitement only ensued when they were close enough for us to slip into the water and watch the lumbering beauties glide by. We reveled in being amongst the wild in our backyard. This ethereal sea spot was only a handful of nautical miles from major populations, yet it felt more like a million.

The roaring westerly winds finally let up. It was time to head home to O‘ahu. The wind seemed to have blown itself out, leaving the seas dead calm. It was going to be a long, lazy motor cruise to O‘ahu, an unceremonious

ending to a trip deserving a trilling crescendo. Then, Quintin spotted it off the shores of Moloka‘i, just a stone’s throw away from Lana‘i: an empty wave peaking on a reef and peeling down the right. An hour later, we were on our surfboards and in the lineup, elated over the fortune of finding an empty wave to serve as the oh-sosweet ending to our sailing adventure. Finally, when our limbs tired, we paddled back to the boat, where a feast of freshly caught skipjack tuna awaited us. Here was high living on the high seas.

The final day delivered heavy winds. Our Moloka‘i surf delay resulted in us sailing headlong into the beginning of a fierce storm that eventually hit O‘ahu. For 10 hours, we beat a course through rolling, wind-chopped seas, The Moondog pitching to and fro amid 20-knot sidewinds.

Briny, bruised, cut, tired, and disheveled, I set my wobbly feet back on solid ground at the Ala Wai Harbor. We’d been gone just nine days, but already the buzz of Honolulu felt foreign. We had unplugged from the grind of daily city life in order to plug in to the thrill of open-ended adventure. For a short while, we had engaged in nothing other than the world that existed within The Moondog’s reach. While staggering down the dock, memories began whirring through my mind like a fuzzy eight-millimeter home movie that my uncle used to play when I was a kid. Smiling, I shook my head and vowed to acquire my own Moondog someday soon.

GIVE AND GET

BYLINE: Kelli Gratz IMAGES BY John Hook & Jonas Maon

Experience a different side of Hawai‘i with these unique voluntour opportunities.

Planting trees in a nature preserve, harvesting vegetables, or restoring a Native Hawaiian fishpond might not seem the ideal way to spend your dream vacation in paradise, but as it turns out, volunteer travelers are able to integrate into an unfamiliar location in a way traditional tourists seldom can. In Hawaiian, there is a saying, “‘O ka ha o ka ‘aina ke ola o ka po‘e,” which translates to “The breath of the land is the life of its people.” Volunteer-touring, or voluntouring for short, can help travelers experience Hawai‘i from a homegrown perspective while giving back to the culture that hosts them.

O‘ahu

MA‘O ORGANIC FARMS:

Rooted in their desire to grow organic food locally and support Hawai‘i’s youth, Gary Maunakea-Forth and his wife, Kukui, started MA‘O Organic Farms in 2001 (MA‘O is an acronym for Mala Ai ‘Opio, which translates to “youth garden”) as a way to reach out to at-risk youth in Wai‘anae. Since then, their youth leadership training program has helped hundreds of students obtain college educations, as well as inspired many to become farmers. Along with building and raising a community through agricultural activity, they’ve also raised awareness of the current instability of Hawai‘i’s food and economic security through an authentic farm-to-table experience.

Volunteer Tip : G.I.V.E. (Get Involved and Volunteer Environmentally) back with MA‘O’s community work days every last Saturday of the month. Plant, weed, harvest, and talk story with local residents while learning about the deep connection between the land, the food, and the people of Hawai‘i. maoorganicfarms.org

HO‘OLU ‘AINA NATURE PRESERVE:

Imagine 99 acres of beautiful, lush forest and agricultural terraces in a mountain valley. Then imagine a small community coming together to restore life to the area, planting banana trees, harvesting kalo (taro), weeding, and learning about the ahupua‘a (traditional watershed system) of the area. It’s an inspiring thought.

Volunteer Tip: Community work days take place every Wednesday and third Saturday of the month. Look forward to benefitting from the knowledge of Pacific Island traditions in agroforestry. hooluaina.com

HE‘EIA FISHPOND:

Ancient Hawaiians developed their own, unique system of fishpond aquaculture believed to have helped feed the population of up to one million people who lived in the pre-contact Hawaiian Islands. Nowhere else in the world can you find the variety or quantity of loko i‘a (fishponds). Because they are located where land meets sea, fishponds catch everything that flows downstream, from nutrients to pollutants, making them an important way to judge the health of the land as well as of the oceans. Located in He‘eia Uli on the island of O‘ahu, the He‘eia fishpond is the longest in the islands, measuring 1.3 miles.

Volunteer Tip : Help rebuild the fishpond by repairing the kuapa (fishpond wall) using pohaku pele (volcanic rock) and ko‘a (coral) or by removing invasive mangroves and seaweed in the area. Community work days occur on Friday mornings, and every second and fourth Saturday of the month. paepaeoheeia.com

Maui

LEEWARD HALEAKALA WATERSHED RESTORATION PARTNERSHIP (LHWRP): Anyone can drive up Haleakala or hike through the volcano’s crater, but not everyone can help to preserve it. This nonprofit is working to defend and restore the 7,500 acres of native upland watershed forests found along the slopes of Maui’s tallest volcano.

Volunteer Tip: Sign up for one of LHWRP’s monthly planting days to help restore koa and ‘ohia forests, which are home to native bird habitats as well as rare and endangered plants. lhwrp.org

Kaua‘i

LIMAHULI GARDEN AND PRESERVE:

This beautiful 1,000-acre preserve on the north shore of Kaua‘i aims to perpetuate traditional knowledge of native plant conservation and habitat restoration. Take a walk through its Plantation Era garden and along Limahuli Stream, one of the last pristine waterways left in the islands. When you get to work, you will learn about Native Hawaiian species and ecosystems, and be immersed in Hawaiian culture.

Volunteer Tip: Inquire with the National Tropical Botanical Garden about its “Vacation and Volunteer” option. This way, you’ll be placed in the area that you’re most excited about, from nurturing plants in the nursery to assisting with arts and crafts. ntbg.org/donate/volunteer.php

SMALL TOWN MAUI

TEXT BY Sarah Ruppenthal IMAGES BY John Hook

Go ahead and add these places to your must-see list while visiting the Valley Isle. They may be small in size, but each of these towns has larger-than-life personalities. Kahakuloa Village takes you off the beaten path; Pa‘ia Town compels you to slow down and relax; Makawao Town radiates with rustic ambience; and Wailuku Town reveals what makes Maui tick. Maui’s sleepy little towns may differ geographically and otherwise, but there’s one thing they each have in common: a warm and welcoming atmosphere for the LGBT traveler.

KAHAKULOA VILLAGE

It’s a blink-or-you’ll-miss-it town, but with its abundance of scenic beauty, Kahakuloa Village is worth a long look. A scenic drive (be sure to fuel up before you go, as there are no gas stations in Kahakuloa) along Maui’s west coast on the Kahekili Highway—past the Nakalele Blowhole and Olivine Pools—will deliver you here, one of the most remote places on the island.

Be forewarned, the road to Kahakuloa (which means “tall lord”) is slow going, with a harrowing series of onelane bridges and cliff-hugging hairpin turns. But the destination is well worth the journey. Home to around 100 residents, this sleepy fishing village embraces a slower pace of life. Outside of a few churches, art galleries, and gift shops, there’s not a whole lot of activity; there are no restaurants, bars, or cafés. Instead, you will find roadside stands offering fresh fruit, cold drinks, and banana bread, including Ululani’s by the Bay, a snack cart operated by Ululani Ho‘opi‘i, wife of Hawaiian music legend Richard Ho‘opi‘i of the Ho‘opi‘i Brothers. Perched atop west Maui’s high sea

cliffs, Kahakuloa has sweeping, unobstructed views of the Pacific Ocean. Visitors may be smitten with its dramatic landscapes, but its local residents cherish the enduring character and culture embedded in this closeknit community.

PA‘IA TOWN

Once a thriving plantation village, this hippie surfer enclave is quaint, historic, and overflowing with smalltown charm. Nestled on Maui’s north shore on the road to Hana, Pa‘ia Town has long been a hotspot for surfers and free spirits alike. There’s an ever-present laid-back—and at times, quirky—vibe here; it’s not uncommon to see residents strolling around barefoot, carrying a surfboard or strumming an ‘ukulele. Just a stone’s throw from the beach, Pa‘ia may be most known for its proximity to some of the best waves on the planet: A few miles away is Ho‘okipa Beach Park, dubbed the “windsurfing capital of the world,” and just a bit farther down the road is Jaws, the surf spot appropriately named for the colossal waves that draw daredevil big wave surfers for a thrill ride of a lifetime.

The town also offers a colorful mosaic of art galleries, cafés, yoga studios, salons, and tattoo parlors. When it comes to dining, there is no shortage of options, but the local pizza joint, Flatbread Company, is a perennial crowd favorite (be prepared to wait for a table, especially at happy hour or dinnertime). Mana Foods, the town’s health food store, is also a mainstay for locals and visitors alike. You won’t find any swanky resorts here, but Paia Inn offers rooms smack dab in the middle of town, and there are a handful of charming bed and breakfasts, youth hostels, and private vacation rentals on the outskirts. On any given night, you can get an earful of live music at Charley’s Restaurant & Saloon— and there’s a chance you might see some familiar faces on stage (country music legend Willie Nelson is a Charley’s regular).

MAKAWAO TOWN

Makawao Town puts the country in upcountry Maui. Rustic and unmistakably charming, Maui’s paniolo (cowboy) town is a drastic departure from the glitzier, fun-under-the-sun vibe of the island’s beachfront resorts. There are, in fact, no hotels or resorts—or beaches, for that matter. Here, instead, you will find a vibrant mix of art galleries, boutiques, and eateries. Steeped in history, Makawao is a portal to Maui’s past: In the 19th century, Portuguese settlers taught Hawaiians living in the area how to ranch. It’s safe to say the lessons paid off. The country-western theme extends past the arena and nearby horse pastures. You’ll find rodeo paraphernalia just about everywhere, and there are hitching posts scattered throughout the town. There’s even a good chance you’ll see a cowboy or cowgirl moseying down the street on horseback.

When it comes to dining options, Makawao has just about every food genre covered. Polli’s Mexican

Restaurant, Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli (which leads a double life as the town’s only nightclub), and Makawao Steak House are longstanding favorites. If you’re looking to indulge your sweet tooth, Komoda Store & Bakery is a must-try—it’s a guarantee you won’t leave hungry or empty-handed.

WAILUKU TOWN

Wailuku Town is best known as the county seat of Maui. It’s just about the only place on the island where locals don’t gawk at men and women wearing business suits and carrying briefcases. But outside of the government offices and law firms that line the streets of Wailuku, there are thriving music, theater, and cultural scenes that evoke a feeling of nostalgia. The town is home to several cultural and historic sites, including Ka‘ahumanu Church and clock tower, Bailey House Museum, and the historic ‘Iao Theater, which has hosted live theater productions since it opened in 1928.

Accordingly, in the early 1900s, Wailuku was one of Maui’s most popular tourist destinations. Over the years, though, the town’s appeal was eclipsed by the allure of sun-drenched venues like Wailea and Ka‘anapali resorts. But Wailuku hasn’t lost its mojo entirely. In addition to an air of authenticity, Wailuku may very well be the proverbial diamond in the rough. You’ll find an assortment of rare treasures and local art within the town’s wooden storefronts, and there is also a tantalizing selection of restaurants, delis, bakeries, and coffee shops serving up inexpensive fare ranging from spicy Thai cuisine to the ever-popular plate lunch. Including the island’s one and only record store, Wailuku’s eclectic blend of family-owned and -operated restaurants, cafés, and shops shows what it’s really like to live on Maui.

SURREAL ESTATE

TEXT BY Alan McNarie IMAGES BY John Hook

Ira Ono’s Volcano Garden Arts is a work to behold, or be wed.

When Ira Ono first saw what would become his most ambitious work of art, he was not exactly impressed. “They called it the ‘House of Leaks,’ he recalls with a laugh. “It was very neglected and horses once lived here and ate most everything planted in the garden.”

Ira Ono has been a creative force in Hawai‘i for decades. His sculptures, collages, ceramic art, and masks have appeared in collections from here to as far as Japan and Europe. He’s the founder, juror, and creative power behind Hilo’s annual Trash Art Show, which features wildly imaginative artworks created from recycled materials, and has spawned popular spinoffs on other islands. He also has a line of clothing made from recycled materials, and his latest fashion creation, the Ono Ribbon Scarf, sells in galleries and boutiques across the islands and the mainland. But his greatest work—certainly his largest, absorbing much of his talent and energy for many years—is actually a place.

It’s called Volcano Garden Arts, and it’s nestled in a corner of the rainforest on an old estate near the summit caldera of Kilauea. Its acres of grounds hold several micro-ecologies: a water garden, a “cathedral” of evergreens, a flower-bordered lawn, a grove of sugi pines with an understory of thick moss. Dotted throughout are unexpected, enchanting finds: a Japanese shrine, a tree full of birdhouses, a ceramic head covered with ceramic butterflies.

The old estate also houses a human ecosystem: a cluster of sustainable venues that complement each other and support the surrounding community. The 1908 redwood house holds a gallery that features not

only Ono’s works, but also those of more than 100 other local artists. The back lanai has been remodeled to hold Café Ono, an eatery serving gourmet vegetarian fare made with ingredients from local farms. The former caretaker’s cottage is now a guesthouse with rustic redwood walls, as well as a state-of the art kitchen, outdoor hot tub, and “Zen bathroom” that’s nearly as large as the rest of the house. The gallery and gardens have hosted everything from private weddings to community events like fitness classes and poetry readings.

Ono first became acquainted with his future masterwork 13 years ago. Originally from New York, he’d fallen in love with Hawai‘i while on vacation, returning to live on Maui for several years before moving to the Big Island in 2002. He and three other artists moved into a decrepit redwood farmhouse called Ka Leo O Na Manu (“the voice of the singing bird”), which was originally built as a summer estate by a family from Honolulu. “One year later, the original owners decided to sell it,” Ono remembers. “They knew I’d be a good caretaker and wouldn’t have the home bulldozed to make way for a larger building.” He decided to buy it.

Ono faced a formidable challenge in transforming the area into a botanic beauty. The vast majority of garden plants aren’t generally fit for a 4,000-foot-high tropical climate; some simply won’t grow, while others grow all too well. The native rainforest already suffers from disastrous introductions of plants like kahili ginger, with its showy yellow flowers that have crowded out thousands of acres of native understory around the islands. For years, Ono studied his neighbors’ yards in Volcano Village, looking for plants that thrived without

spreading. He decided upon colorful species such as azaleas, camellias, gardenias, and proteas, planting them alongside native vegetation such as giant hapu‘u (tree ferns).

He did inherit one priceless botanic legacy from the previous owners: the garden’s renowned Cathedral of Trees. “They’d planted those trees 60 years ago in the shape of a room,” Ono says. “It is a most inspired place where we’ve had weddings and tai chi classes and ceremonies. It just rings with birdsong throughout the day.”

With the garden, restaurant, gallery, and guesthouse in place, Ono found he had the makings for the perfect wedding destination in paradise. After Hawai‘i passed same-sex marriage in 2013, Ono, who is gay and in a committed relationship, quickly

offered Volcano Garden Arts as a locale for weddings. “The wedding business … has really gained momentum because one can legally marry in the state of Hawai‘i, regardless of gender,” he says. “This has really become a game-changer in our visitors’ experience. … It is important that our state be all-encompassing, and this new law shows how open our residents are.”

As Ono looks out on the row of bonsai lining the entrance path, he continues, “Much of what was planted when I first arrived and designed the garden has matured into a lovely visual surprise.” That could be said of much more than the garden.

Volcano Garden Arts is located at 19-3834 Old Volcano Rd. For more information, visit volcanogardenarts.com.

TAKE, LEAVE, WHATEVAS

TEXT BY Sonny Ganaden IMAGES BY John Hook

Gaye Chan’s projects inspire others to act without shame, share without condition, and trust without apology.

It is nearly impossible to overstate the influence Gaye Chan has had on the arts community in Hawai‘i. As chair of the Department of Art and Art History at the University of Hawai‘i at Manoa, she has prodded countless students to pursue their ideas, identities, and conceptions of art. In her own work, she interrogates what it means to engage in dynamic communities, testing the boundaries of politics and the economy. She confronts what those in the art and academic worlds consider normative leadership styles. She throws the most interesting potlucks in Hawai‘i.

At one such potluck, dubbed the “Digger’s Dinner,” held in March 2014 at the Commons Gallery in the heart of UH Manoa, all of Chan’s recent experiments regarding art and community were tested. A proponent of rules in art, Chan laid out the requirements for participation: “Participants’ contributions must be primarily made from ingredients that they have either grown, hunted, fished, foraged, bartered, found, been gifted, or stolen. Digger’s Dinners are exercises in recreating the commons, where food and knowledge are freely shared.”

Most participants were game for embracing the rules of a potluck in an academic art gallery. But there was a big difference between this event and those often stuffy contemporary art shows: People were happy! The space was packed with current and former students, university people, decidedly non-university people, and members of the community who had either heard about the party on the radio, read about it in the paper, or were tagged in an Instagram post. Contributors stood in a long line to share about their recipes, as well as the myriad of clever ways for overcoming the rules. Some questions went unaddressed: Is this a potluck or an art show? Is this an attack on capitalism or a promotion of locally grown food? Is this an exhibition or an incitement to petty theft? Chan, the orchestrator, seemed happy with the ambiguity. “An elderly woman came up to me during the event and showed me the newspaper clipping from the arts section of the paper,” she remembers. “She told me, ‘This is the party I’ve been waiting for my whole life.’”

The idea for the Digger’s Dinner developed organically over the last several years of Chan’s artistic practice. Years prior, Chan and her partner, Nandita Sharma, a professor of sociology at UH Manoa, lived and worked out of a home in the Enchanted Lakes neighborhood of Kailua, where they began to call their communal art/sociology/anarchy experiments “Eating in Public.” In a strip of grass abutting a fenced-off lake designated to Enchanted Lake residents, they planted papaya trees. Weeks later, they engaged in a public, old-school style battle—complete with signage—in front of their trees. And the receivers of their arbor-loving ire? Reluctant groundskeepers employed by the largest private landowner in Hawai‘i, Kamehameha Schools. Eventually, the papaya trees were cut down and the fence extended out to the sidewalk—the public space now lessened by two feet. But not all was lost: Two weeks after the trees were felled, the neighborhood assisted in creating a communal garden near where the trees had stood. “Most of us are suburbanites and don’t know a thing about farming, so there were crazy ways of harvesting,” Chan says. “We eventually put signs up on how to take, what herbs are used for, even recipes.”

It feels fresh, but Chan is careful to explain that she is not engaged in neologism. She is continuing the work of those over the last several centuries who have challenged capitalism’s capacity to ensure equitable lives. Blending the anti-authoritarian and the academic, Chan cites 17th century commoners as her inspiration: serfs who were pushed off communal land at the outset of the private-property revolution, becoming farmers engaged in activist planting. As private-property owners divvied up plots and divested those without inheritance of their lands, public terrain became increasingly ornamental, disconnected from the necessities of food, water, building materials, and heating. Some of the displaced farmers formed the diggers, whose signature act was to plant edible foods on their recently expropriated lands. “We’re not exactly continuing the work of the diggers, we are the diggers,” Chan says. “We are continuing the same project: the return of our commons.”

For Chan, Eating in Public is only a portion of life in contemporary art. While on sabbatical during 2013 to develop her work and spend time with her ailing father, she took to Instagram. A lifetime of thinking about photography, content, and composition was at play immediately. Taking note of musician John Cage’s ideas regarding the boundaries of art, she devised a few of her own: no filters, nothing but pictures from her phone. Before long, a discarded orange peel on cracked asphalt became a metaphor for depression; a defaced political sign became a symbol for protest; countless other images showed life as it is in Hawai‘i and the places she travels. “I like to take photos of nothing,” she says blithely of the medium that perhaps has made her most famous. A closer inspection reveals that the images exist in sets: a series of fences, a series of fruits, a series of people covering their faces awkwardly, plenty of coincidences with which to test theories of art and community.

There is a danger in giving some definition to an individual who is so adept at defining her own work. As an ideating leader in a community of artists, it can be said that she is concerned with delimitation—the ways to transcend the boundaries created by political, economic, and aesthetic systems. In a TEDxHonolulu talk in 2013, Chan concluded with a rousing directive: “If you like our ideas, contact us. Better yet, don’t contact us. Take them and run as far, smart, and fast as you possibly can.”

For more information, or to keep up with Chan’s projects, visit nomoola.com.

THE THIRD ACT

TEXT BY Kelli Gratz IMAGES BY John Hook

How Robert Lambeth, HIFF’s executive director, effortlessly shifted from opera singer to banker to head of the largest film festival in the Pacific.

Robert Lambeth, dressed casually in a beige aloha shirt and slacks, moves through the Hawaii International Film Festival (HIFF) headquarters like a happy, exuberant character out of a Woody Allen film. Effortlessly confident, the suave, charismatic dual citizen (he also holds a U.K. passport) always warms the set, and always finds himself in wonderful circumstances. The latest is that of executive director for HIFF.

Even though it has been nearly four years since Lambeth’s appointment, he never forgets that the job is not about him—it’s about the community as a whole. He first came to Hawai‘i for a teaching position at University of Hawai‘i Hilo, during which he became interested in preserving historic theaters, and began doing film programming for Palace Theater and Aloha Theatre. Then, about 13 years ago, he was hired as HIFF’s neighbor island coordinator, responsible for overseeing events on all major islands. “It was a different time back then,” he recalls. “We were getting money from everywhere. Now, all of us are responsible for thinking about the financial realities faced with running a nonprofit. Nevertheless, it’s been rewarding watching my team grow—and grow together.”

An only child, Lambeth grew up reading comics and watching films like Tora! Tora! Tora! and Blue Hawaii on his parent’s VHS player. He fell in love with singing and dancing, majored in music and performance at the University of the Pacific in California, and eventually became an opera singer. But the reels of his own life didn’t always turn so smoothly. Lambeth grew up in a military family, moving in and out of cities every four years. When he came out as gay to his family at the age of 16, his dad tried to convince him to enlist, hoping it would change him. “I remember this one day, all 12 of the gay GIs I had known got arrested,” he recalls. “They had to serve as prisoners, picking up trash in orange uniforms. I was furious. It was strange, because I didn’t understand what they had done wrong.”

Rather than shying away in fear of being rejected, Lambeth embraced who he was. It was as natural to him as his favorite ice cream flavor. “I am so many things, and I’m gay,” he says. “It never defined who I was or influenced the things I thought I could do.” Perhaps it was his love for film—and the escapism it provided—that gave him strength during times of hardship. Or, it could be that at 23

years old, he met the love of his life, L. R. Heartsong, a psychotherapist turned celebrity chef turned author, who has supported every decision he’s ever made. From performing as an opera singer in Switzerland, to living in London as a banker, to heading to Oregon to search for Heartsong’s birth mother, Lambeth’s journey mirrors his infinite sense of creation, drive, and imagination. His choice to move to the islands is the newest, most enduring phase.

And his passionate presence at HIFF has left its mark. Today, HIFF is one of the top 10 festivals in the world, and is spearheading the Ebert’s Young Critics Program, a lab for budding film critics set to launch at the end of 2015. (The late Rodger Ebert was an immense supporter of HIFF.) Along with the foundation’s accomplishments last year, Lambeth also launched the Courtyard Cinema, a monthly screening event in partnership with The Howard Hughes Corporation at its IBM Building courtyard. He is also working with the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences to recognize HIFF as one of the sanctioned film festivals through which Oscar-nominated films are determined. “Part of my job is to constantly think about the future,” Lambeth says. “It’s about challenging the next generation of filmmakers, writers, and critics to reach a new level of potential—one that addresses not only the process of creation, but questions the result of that creation.”

The Hawaii International Film Festival holds two festivals annually, in November and April. The 2015 Fall Festival is slated for November 12–22. The 2016 Spring Showcase is slated for April 7–17, 2016. For more information, visit hiff.org.

THREE ROADS CONVERGE

TEXT BY Blaine Namahana Tolentino IMAGES BY John Hook

In 2013, my wife and I were among the first married same-sex couples in Hawai‘i to go through the donor process to start a family. This is my journey in navigating new love and new life.

Our son, Graham, is a little over a year old. He was born in March 2014, shortly after our marriage, and shortly after the legalization of such a marriage between two people of the same gender.

The timeline can be broken down as such: My wife and I met in May 2012. The father of our child agreed to be our donor in May 2013. We conceived our son in July 2013. We were married in February 2014. Our son was born in March 2014. If I could provide you with a comprehensive infographic, it would only show you how simple and brief the creation of our child was. The expedience and ease with which things moved is rather unheard of—a fact never lost upon us.

I met my wife on the lawn of Bishop Museum, where she manages the archive collections. A friend invited me along to a casual lunch with two of his friends, including her, which took place at a table under a kukui tree near the museum’s Great Lawn. We ate furikake ahi from Niko’s while she and I and talked about publishing, vintage dresses, and Hawaiian language. Not one to be overt, my future wife was trying to figure out the strength and style of my intellect. We knew many of the same people, but not yet each other. I left that day not sure if I would see her again outside the cave of catalogued history I was sure she lived in. I had assumed she was not interested in women.

About six months later, I encountered her again at Ka Palapala Po‘okela awards, a Hawai‘i Book Publishers Association ceremony taking place at Bishop Museum. I attended as a former bookseller with Native Books and Bookends. This was before I joined the University of Hawai‘i Press, and I later realized that several of the people I work with now were there this night when our relationship began to bloom. She let me snap her photo on the wide koa staircase leading to Pacific Hall. She was wearing a purple and

yellow ’70s mu‘umu‘u and a long lei of crown flowers. We talked about art and furniture in a room full of volcano paintings and 19th century Hawai‘i art that she had co-curated. A short while later, we ran into each other at another event. Over the course of three weeks—a stunning record for even the most determined and mystical women in my family—we fell in love: We ate mango from the peel and went for a night ocean swim in Kahala. We dined at Town in Kaimuki on her birthday, and camped at our friend’s kalo farm in Waiahole the following night. The next morning, we swam in the deep part of the river as the sun rose.

We were compatible in so many ways, which made it easy to begin talking about commitment, family, and how to merge our libraries gracefully. Soon, we found that we shared a desire to raise children together—to make more of us, and to be fastened to each other in this way. Time was passing quickly, as it often does when things move harmoniously and surge with excitement. In addition to the expansiveness of the moment, we felt the pressure of age. In two years, my wife would be 35, a complicated threshold for women in the world of fertility.

She and I quickly agreed on the donor, a good friend whom I felt an enormous affinity for from the first time we met at the 2006 Merrie Monarch Hula Festival Craft Fair in Hilo on Hawai‘i Island. I broached the subject with him on my patio after a dinner following a long workday. We had no alternative donor, and I told him so, stating clearly what we were looking to do. He was the only person we felt certain about, considering we would want him in our child’s life whether or not he was to be the father. We trusted him to continue being the reliable and fantastic human we already knew him to be.

Of the many ways that high-ranking Native Hawaiians consolidated power, creating the progeny of three powerful lines of genealogy was one of the more rare and effective ways to do so. Though we are three modern Americans

through birth, and therefore citizenship, we agreed on the variance in responsibility between my wife and I as parents, and our friend as Graham’s father, and also on the equality and strength of connection we would share through the outcome of this act. Our agreement is based on our shared history of Hawaiians living in Hawai‘i.

Thankfully, we did not have many of the financial burdens commonly associated with the conception or adoption of a child by a same-sex couple. We knew a kind, thorough, and curious lawyer who helped us develop a legal agreement between myself, my wife, and our donor that was based on another lent to him by our friends, a same-sex couple who had adopted a child. Because the legal parameters of these kinds of agreements remain largely untested, it felt complicated. Additionally, because we wanted our donor to remain in our child’s life, there were few cases from which to draw information, much less confidence. We conceived at home, which meant that the law was even more murky. Even with the clarity of written intention, a contract could not be completely infallible if challenged in court, a daunting fact that made us question our instinct to create a more comfortable process for one of the most important moments of our lives. I was to adopt our son once he was born, which was the state’s compromise at that moment. That was the only way to be sure Graham was safely in my custody. But it also left an unnerving gap from the moment of conception to the day in court when the state would officially declare that he was mine, and that his biological father would not be held accountable as a parent. This prescribed process didn’t feel quite right, despite the trust between the three of us. We were doing something that the law could not account for.

Graham was conceived before we wed. We did not anticipate that there would be a special session about same-sex marriage called by Governor Neil Abercrombie. I didn’t expect to have the right to marry my wife, even though I felt it would fit the style of our union. We were both Catholics raised by parents who had been married for decades, and it was a behavior that seemed comfortable, whether or not it was conventional—or even likely—for us.

Then, in December 2013, Hawai‘i became the 15th state to legalize same-sex marriage. We had conceived Graham on the first try, and he was due in March. After conducting our own research and receiving the legal direction of our friends, we found the best way to protect

our friend, child, and selves was to have the birth take place under the protective umbrella of our marriage. It was a good reason to celebrate a public, government-approved union with the person I had already started creating a family with. In an odd way, it gave our families an opportunity to fully celebrate what we were doing. I wept on and off for days, astounded by the changes taking place. My wife, having never identified as gay, could not understand how the secretive teenager in me was experiencing the fear of many years shudder and weaken. It all felt so tectonic in its completion, an act of slow shifts and strenuous commitment. I could not believe this was happening.

My wife was seven months pregnant at our wedding reception-slashbaby shower (which we referred to as a sort of everything celebration). She heaved around our son, still in her belly, under a turquoise vintage caftan on a cool day in February at the estate of James Campbell, my grandmother’s home, known as Lanikuhonua. We knew that this would be the first same-sex marriage many would attend, and perhaps the only one for a very long time. All grandmothers in attendance were congratulatory and kind, proving there was little to have feared.

There are still flaws in the process because it is so new, but the clerical mistakes that exist on record are reasonable in light of the major legal transition the state of Hawai‘i is making. Beyond that, state-to-state recognition is complicated, though federal rights are supposedly clear. When my wife gave birth to Graham, the staff at Queen’s Hospital were so careful and excited that it felt we were among the first samesex couples to give birth there. Both of our names are on Graham’s birth certificate, because we are a married couple and that is the law. But there was no designated space for any note of our donor, whose connection to Graham is a genealogical fact that holds deep importance to all our families. Though we wanted him recorded in this way, the state of Hawai‘i does not yet have an easy process for this kind of thing.

Graham belongs to each of us in a myriad of ways. He is his own person, and looks for people to smile at when we are out in the world. His favorite person is my father. He doesn’t sleep through the night. He is Hawaiian, Portuguese, Irish, Scottish, Visayan, Chinese, and Choctaw. He is the result of a long, continuing push for equality in multiple dimensions of American life for same-sex families. And he is living proof of something much larger than all of us.

MODERN GENTLEWOMAN

TEXT BY Kelli Gratz IMAGES BY Jonas Maon

It’s not surprising to hear that a public performer as polymorphic as Erin Bunda would be seen at a construction site in Honolulu wearing a tool belt with no tools, learning how to build a structure from the ground up. “It’s actually pretty funny when I think about it, because I have this amazing team that handles all my events and projects, all this professional stuff going on throughout the day, and then suddenly I’m refilling large water jugs, sweeping dirt, and people are yelling at me. It’s quite humbling,” she says. Recently, despite a calendar full of night events to emcee and a day job as a youth therapist with aspirations to start her own nonprofit, she’s taken up a new hobby: interior structure of design and woodworking.

Instantly recognizable by her spiked, jet-black hair and business-meets-party swag, Bunda first gained notoriety as an emcee wunderkind more popularly known as Roxy on the Mic (Roxy OTM). After moving home from Northwest University Bible college to be closer to her family, Bunda found herself at a crossroads: She could stay in accounting, which was where she found consistent work, or she could risk it all to be Roxy OTM full time. She took the latter journey, traveling through the United States as an emcee. “I didn’t have a plan,” she recalls. “A twomonth tour turned into a three-year tour. It was fun, but I sort of became a slave to Roxy, where all my other parts were put on hold.”

Since then, Bunda, now 34, has managed to stay in the moment without sacrificing the rest of her identity. Roxy is her platform in the nightlife scene, but it’s Bunda who goes above and beyond. She spends her days working as a youth therapist for one of the largest

health and human service agencies in the state, as well as with various nonprofits specializing in youth grief and trauma care, social development, emotional support, advocacy, and transitioning into adulthood. “Emceeing is a great platform for the work I do,” she says. “It’s helped make fundraising easier, and the youth really look up to me.” She even has plans to create her own nonprofit certification program for teens in the foster care system. “The program puts them through a series of courses related to the trade they are interested in,” she says. “Instead of starting from square one, they will have these courses under them, making it easier for them to get a job.”

Bunda’s careers empowering youth and rallying the masses are rooted in her own experience growing up in Halawa and Honolulu. As an adolescent, she often wondered why she was so different from everybody else, always looking to be a part of something bigger. “I was never comfortable being called a lesbian,” she says. “I felt like I had to work harder—prove myself so that I wouldn’t become stereotyped.” In confronting issues like racial and sexual identity, and reflecting on the generation gap she feels between herself and youth, Bunda is motivated to push ahead. Be it selling Primo Beer, hosting parties, leading worship, or acting as water girl at construction sites, this Renaissance woman proves she can easily lead the charge for a wiser and better community—one where people throw out the stereotypes and see people for people. For Bunda, Roxy OTM will always be merely one expression of all that she is: a ferocious businesswoman, passionate nonprofit entrepreneur, humble role model, and a powerhouse soul with a knack for ushering in celebrations.

If you only have a few nights in Hawai‘i, Roxy OTM suggests barhopping to a few key nighttime hotspots.

“Start your night off at Café Duck Butt , where you can down watermelon soju from a freshly halved watermelon pitcher, sing some karaoke, and nosh on Korean bar comfort food—a perfect way to prep your tummy for a full night of drinking. Next, head over to M Nightclub , with 7,000 square feet of space, which has hosted DJ Vice, Lil Jon, and Diplo. The bottle service and special effects lighting will have you on your feet all night long. For a nightcap, make your way to The Study at the Modern Honolulu Or, if you’re looking to take the party up a notch, head upstairs to Addiction Nightclub owned by the same masterminds behind DBA in Los Angeles. The music is always on point. My suggestion is to put your hands in the air and just dance.”

Five

A PITCH-PERFECT NIGHT

TEXT BY Ada Mayflower IMAGES BY John Hook

karaoke spots, one night. Take my hand, we’ll make it I swear.

Though karaoke traces its roots to Japan, where the first karaoke machine was invented in 1971, I’d say that it is in Hawai‘i, a place filled with diverse cultures, classes, and personalities, that karaoke is most beloved. The mere mention of it can break barriers or build relationships. Get two complete strangers in a karaoke room together, and they’ll leave as lifelong duet partners, bound together by their shared love for the perfect pitch of Sonny and Cher’s “I Got You Babe.” Gays, as we know, have a particular knack for karaoke; in a group of ten, there’s a good chance that at least eight will be able to belt Bon Jovi, rap Salt N Pepa, or croon Frank Sinatra.

Looking to get our karaoke fix, a group of us went out for a night on the town. Honolulu has a slew of great bars for unleashing your inner rock star. Many have private rooms, and others come with their own shticks (face your fear of stage fright with on-stage karaoke at Sansei in Waikiki; live out your inner gamer at Nocturna in Restaurant Row). Our plan was simple. Starting at 7 p.m., we would hit five karaoke bars, spending an hour at each. We’d hit Chiko’s Tavern to sing a quick tune and grab a bite, then head to Waikiki for perennial favorites Wang Chung’s and In Between; this all followed by Café Duck Butt for their watermelon soju and another late-night snack. We’d end the night in Chinatown at Smith’s Union, the oldest bar in Honolulu.

At 7:15 p.m., we arrive to Chiko’s, a neighborhood bar popular for its darts, yummy pupus, live Hawaiian music, and $1 karaoke. “A Woman’s Worth” by Alicia Keys plays as we enter, and it takes us a few minutes to realize it’s actually someone singing, not a recording. After contemplating ordering the fried pork chops and tater tot nachos, we opt for drinks only, stocking up on liquid courage to match the talent already in the room. We do a number on Jefferson Airplane’s “White Rabbit” and Ace of Base’s “All That She Wants” before realizing it’s already 8:36 p.m. We dash out the door and head to Waikiki.

At 9:15 p.m., we get to Wang Chung’s, which recently moved to a bigger location in the charming Stay Hotel. Dan Chung, the place’s proprietor, bounds over like a sprite, his shirt emblazoned with the words “Really Big Wang.” He cheekily reminds me not to leave without getting a misfortune cookie. Three rounds of drinks in, we realize we still haven’t eaten, and order from the new Asian and Latin inspired menu: Saigon pork hash sliders, ginger crab Rangoon dumplings, fried pickles with Sriracha mayo. Instead of picking through the sticky pages of heavy binders looking for a song, at Wang Chung’s, we peruse the complete list online, which makes it easy to find even the most obscure of choices. “It’s all about song choice,” my lawyer friend—who often finds himself questioning if his true calling isn’t in fact law but karaoke—tells me. “It’s storytelling, right? You gotta assess the crowd. Ask yourself, what is going to make this crowd scream? Like, singing about the love that you lost, that you’re never going to get back? People love that.”

We overstay our time again, stumbling out the door two hours later at 11:18 p.m. It’s easy to stay too long at Wang Chung’s. The bar staff is friendly and cute, and it’s easy to fall for the eclectic crowd with an even more eclectic song choice (B-52’s “Rock Lobster,” complete with pseudo cowbell, come on!).

By 11:36 p.m., when we stagger into In Between, just a short walk from Wang Chung’s, the wigs are off and we’re all a good deal toasted. We lose a few from our group on the way over, but we pay no mind! We know we’re guaranteed a good time at In Between, where you can get chummy rubbing shoulders in a space no bigger than someone’s walk-in closet. Like Wang Chung’s, In Between has its songs available digitally on searchable monitors. We hassle the bartender, who looks like the local version of Raul from Dangerous Minds (Coolio’s “Gangsta’s Paradise,” also a must for karaoke), to sing something, and he pauses from pouring drinks to do a great rendition of “Treasure” by Bruno Mars.

When we leave In Between, it’s 1 a.m., and we decide to save Duck Butt and Smith’s Union for another adventure. We know tomorrow morning we’ll be hurting, a head-pounding reminder of just how good tonight was. But for now, as the lights flash by on our ride home, we continue to smile and hum.

BRUNCH WISELY

TEXT BY Anna Harmon IMAGE BY Jonas Maon

It’s not breakfast. It’s not lunch. It’s brunch. Five classic places to do this deed in the islands, bevvy in hand.

Brunch, that smarmy weekend meal, is a magical thing in the islands, the sun not yet at its zenith and the tradewinds blowing through open doors or ruffling your hair as glassware clinks around an outdoor lanai. This meal is made to order for the late sleepers, the hungover good timers, the early morning adventurers, and the generally fabulous. In Hawai‘i, brunch can be discovered at a variety of places, from beachfront patios to cozy spots in nearby neighborhoods.

MOKE’S BREAD AND BREAKFAST (O‘AHU)

In the air at Moke’s, the tangy scent of liliko‘i (passionfruit) and savory smell of seared meat mingle, creating a dreamy midmorning perfume. It’s brunchtime, that rare moment of the day when diners decide between sweet sauces or rich gravies. Tables are covered with plastic gingham cloths and topped with brunch essentials: ketchup, shoyu, and Tabasco. The liliko‘i chiffon sauce for which Moke’s is renowned appears only as a side order or atop mounds of fluffy buttermilk pancakes. A better kept secret, but a revelatory one, is the restaurant’s array of loco mocos. The unofficial dish of the islands, the loco moco typically features a beef patty served over rice and topped with rich gravy. Alongside this traditional version, Moke’s offers three tasty interpretations of the dish, including one made with local Shinsato Farm rabbit. Sidewalk patio seats are available, or customers can sit inside, where the breeze intertwines with a soothing blast of A/C.

** Moke’s is BYOB! Tote along your own beer, wine, or champagne (no hard liquor allowed). We recommend bringing your own bubbly and juice for DIY mimosas. **

Moke’s is located in Kailua at 27 Hoolai St. For more information, visit mokeskailua.com.

HAU TREE LANAI (O‘AHU)

This is a place of first dates, anniversary meals, and treat-yourself outings. If you are looking to get a little fancy with your Hawai‘i fling, this is an excellent spot to settle in for drinks and hushed conversation. Its outdoor dining area is set beneath a broad, leafy hau tree and overlooks Sans Souci Beach, where watery blues fade from teal to sapphire next to the iconic Waikiki Natatorium War Memorial. Rest beneath the shady tree and people-watch without shame while digging into a divine eggs benedict and sipping on a Bloody Mary. (If you want booze, make a reservation after 10:30 a.m., since the bartender isn’t available until around then.) While this is one of the pricier of spots, it is well worth it for the view.

Hau Tree Lanai is located in Waikiki in the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel, 2863 Kalakaua Ave. For more information, visit kaimana.com/hautreelanai.htm

KOKO HEAD CAFÉ (O‘AHU)

The newest of this brunch bunch, Koko Head Café exists for the foodies at heart. Founded by chef Lee Anne Wong of Top Chef fame, who can occasionally be spotted cooking as well as waiting tables, this spot is located on a humble corner in Kaimuki, an eclectic neighborhood known for its top-notch dining. Dig into savory dishes served in hefty cast-iron skillets or the sweetest brunch dish you may ever introduce your tastebuds to: a cornflake-crusted French toast with brown-sugar bacon, blackpepper maple syrup, and a dollop of Frosted Flakes gelato made by Via Gelato, just across the street. Get more than just sugar buzzed by way of the drink menu, which includes the Queen’s Mimosa, made with sparkling cava, elderflower, and a splash of guava, or the Morning Milkshake, a frothy blend of Maker’s Mark bourbon, vanilla gelato, honey maple, granola, and bacon.

Koko Head Café is located in Honolulu at 1145C 12th Ave. For more information, visit kokoheadcafe.com.

ART CAFÉ HEMINGWAY (KAUA‘I)

Art Café Hemingway has an air of quirky island sophistication. A combo café-gallery, the space is surprisingly large, with an upstairs patio and outdoor garden where diners can enjoy brunch while kicking back and perusing a rotating art display. Grab pastries and an espresso to go or settle in for light fare like crepes or quiche. For a heartier option, try the For Whom the Bell Tolls plate, a European affair served with salami, Strassburger liverwurst, scrambled eggs, sliced baguette, and butter. For those who favor morning cocktails, these are also within reach. The concept of the Art Café was dreamed up by the owners, a Czech couple who sold their art gallery in Prague and relocated to their dream destination of Kaua‘i in 2010.

Art Café Hemingway is located in Kapa‘a at 4-1495 Kuhio Hwy. For more information, visit artcafehemingway.com.

MARKET FRESH BISTRO (MAUI)

One of the best spots for brunch on Maui, Market Fresh Bistro is posted in sleepy Makawao, a town set apart by its cowboy crossings and yearly rodeo. The café itself is a humble scene, with a small indoor dining area, open kitchen, and outdoor courtyard set with tables and plastic chairs. It seems, at times, that the number of specials available exceeds that of actual menu items, a symptom of chef Justin Pardo’s passion for fresh produce and farm-direct ingredients. This inspiration spills over into the beverage selections—try the signature sangria, made with figs from Pardo’s backyard, or the lime ginger mimosa. Next, of course, the grub: From fresh frittatas to miniature Belgian waffles to a smoked salmon benedict, these mouthwatering meals are sure to satisfy those who believe midmorning is best spent brunching. Enjoy before a drive along the Road to Hana, or as the focal point of a mellow day on Maui.

Market Fresh Bistro is located in Makawao at 3620 Baldwin Ave., Ste. 102A. For more information, visit marketfreshbistromaui.com.

** TIP: Bringing your own booze (BYOB) is allowed at various restaurants in Hawai‘i. However, what you can bring will vary by island, and it’s up to individual venues to opt in. We recommend calling ahead to find out.

MERRY MEN OF THE MACABRE

TEXT BY Lisa Yamada IMAGES BY John Hook

A curiosity shop in Honolulu gives new life to a bizarre collection of antiques.

A few blocks from the heart of Chinatown in Honolulu, just past a makeshift booth selling cheap cigarettes and a store filled with dresses covered in plastic, is curiosity shop Hound and Quail. Inside, hard-to-find objects from the ghoulish to the bizarre, including globes, medical supplies, anatomy models, and skeleton keys, are stacked in an organized chaos sort of way. A taxidermic wolf stands watch over it all.

How the shop’s owners, Travis Flazer and Mark Pei, crossed paths is only slightly less macabre than the vintage wares that line Hound and Quail’s walls. “We met initially on Glen Grant’s haunted tour of Honolulu,” Flazer recalls of the outing in 2004 that took them by such haunted sites as ‘Iolani Palace, Hawai‘i State Library, and Kawaiaha‘o Church. “I volunteered to be the guy who got hit on the head by a spirit,” he says. Flazer has a habit of excessive volunteering—to a fault, he admits—and is quick to pitch in on the machinations of others, including Pei. Says Pei, “I’m probably the instigator between the two of us. I’m like, ‘I want a shop—’” and Flazer interjects, “And I’m like, ‘I’ll help you build your shop.’”

Ever since they met, the two have channeled their shared love of all things weird into owning and maintaining what they describe as “creative outlets.” With both holding rigorous full-time jobs (Flazer is the assistant technical director of theater at Punahou School and Pei is a pilot with Hawaiian Airlines), their shops have always operated on passion, and thus, limited hours. The duo’s first foray into shopkeeping was Area, a mid-century modern furniture store open just one day a month in Chinatown for the neighborhood’s popular First Friday event. However, after Pei lost his former job at Aloha Airlines, they were forced to close Area’s doors. “In 2008, the recession hit big time,” says Pei, who was unemployed for nearly a year. “Nobody was spending money. … Airlines were folding, and we couldn’t survive, so we shut it down.”

When the economy bounced back, Pei and Flazer opened Hound and Quail in 2011 in a two-story walk-up on Kapiolani Boulevard. No longer able to find vintage mid-century furniture, they switched gears, filling their shop with smaller goods that Pei sourced from flea markets and antique shops while on layovers around the world. But the size of their

quarters, which amounted to something along the lines of a walk-in closet, quite literally began to cramp their style, so they launched the hunt for a new location.

In early 2014, they stumbled upon the Chinatown shop. “It was kind of a derelict space on a derelict end of the street with people camped out with carts,” Flazer says. “But we chose to come back to Chinatown because if we were going to continue to do this, I wanted to be part of a community.” With Pei’s creative direction and Flazer’s background in set building at Punahou, they transformed the space into an urban wonder—it’s easy to forget you’re in Chinatown upon stepping inside. The shop even came with such creepy features as a grand staircase that leads nowhere and an eerie basement reimagined as an art gallery.

In addition to monthly rotating art exhibitions at Hound and Quail, Pei imagines the shop will play host to events like small dinner parties, wine classes, or even taxidermy workshops. Eventually, the two hope the space will be a gathering place for the community, as well as an inspiration for others. “When is it ever a good time to do anything?” Pei asks. “Just try it, and if it doesn’t work, you’ll recover.”

Hound and Quail is located at 920 Maunakea St. For hours and more information, visit houndandquail.com.

PACK IT UP!

Men’s and women’s travel accessories from Royal Hawaiian Center.

ABOUT ROYAL HAWAIIAN CENTER

Royal Hawaiian Center is located on three fabulous blocks of Kalakaua Avenue in Waikiki. Open daily from 10 a.m.–10 p.m., it is at Royal Hawaiian Center that you will discover a selection of the most prestigious brands and high-quality and unique made-in-Hawai‘i items. Whether you are in the mood for elegant dining or a quick bite, explore your culinary options at any of the Center’s restaurants, specialty eateries, or the array of casual dining in the Paina Lanai Food Court. While you are here, learn the arts and crafts of the islands or just enjoy live local entertainment, all complimentary to our guests. For more information, please visit RoyalHawaiianCenter.com.

1. GLOBE-TROTTER SUITCASE FROM LEATHER SOUL

2 . STRAW HAT FROM KOI HONOLULU

3 . PSD FLOWER UNDERWEAR FROM PRINCESSE TAM TAM 4 PORTUGUESE AUTOMATIC WATCH FROM TOURNEAU

5. SURFER’S SALVE FROM ISLAND SOAP AND CANDLE WORKS

6. SURFER BOARDSHORTS FROM KOI HONOLULU

ACQUA DE COLONIA FROM KOI HONOLULU 8. SELLERIA WALLET IN ROMAN LEATHER FROM FENDI

9.

KOA PEN FROM SIMPLY WOOD STUDIOS

MEN'S

12 . BRAIDED LEATHER BELT FROM LEATHER SOUL

14.

15. SLIPPERS FROM ISLAND SLIPPER

HAWAIIAN

10. KOA WOOD PHONE COVER FROM TRICKED OUT ACCESSORIES

11. SOAP FROM ISLAND SOAP AND CANDLE WORKS

13. MAMMOTH IVORY NECKLACE FROM SIMPLY WOOD STUDIOS

MAUI JIM SUNGLASSES FROM SUNGLASS HUT

16. BETONES UNDERWEAR FROM PRINCESSE TAM TAM

17. ANGRY FACE BAG FROM FENDI

1. RIMOWA RED SUITCASE FROM LEATHER SOUL

2. YELLOW MICRO BAGUETTE FROM FENDI

3. TWO-PIECE SWIMSUIT FROM ALLURE SWIMWEAR

4. GOLD CHARM NECKLACE FROM SIMPLY WOOD STUDIOS

5. SEA MIST FROM ISLAND SOAP AND CANDLE WORKS

6. MYCHARGE RECHARGEABLE BATTERY FROM TRICKED OUT ACCESSORIES

7. JAEGER-LECOULTRE WATCH FROM TOURNEAU

8. SOAP FROM ISLAND SOAP AND CANDLE WORKS

9. LARGE PRINTED BLANKET FROM ALLURE SWIMWEAR 10. PEACH BRA WITH SWIMMERS FROM PRINCESSE TAM TAM 11. TROPICAL

FROM FENDI

REUSABLE WOOD CHOPSTICKS FROM SIMPLY WOOD STUDIOS 13. ISLAND PASSION LIP BALM FROM ISLAND SOAP AND CANDLE

MIU

FROM SUNGLASS

15. SLIPPERS FROM ISLAND SLIPPER 16. PORTABLE SPEAKER FROM TRICKED OUT ACCESSORIES 17. VERSACE SUNGLASSES FROM SUNGLASS HUT 18. KOA WOOD PHONE COVER FROM TRICKED OUT ACCESSORIES 19. HAWAIIAN BOTANICALS LOTION FROM ISLAND SOAP AND CANDLE WORKS 20. WATERCOLOR SHAWL FROM ALLURE SWIMWEAR

WALLET

WORKS 14.

MIU SUNGLASSES

HUT

A WALK IN THE PARK

STYLED BY Bradley Rhea

STYLING ASSISTED BY Carrie Shuler

PHOTOGRAPHY BY John Hook

MODELED BY Tyler Gomes & Brandon Smith

A day at Kualoa Ranch on O‘ahu's east side can spark adventure, conversation, and a bit of romance.

ON BRANDON: TURKISH TOWEL AND BEACH TRUNKS, ALOHA SUNDAY; SUNGLASSES, APB SKATESHOP. ON TYLER: HAT, ROBERTA OAKS; SUNGLASSES, MARTIN & MACARTHUR; SHIRT, PULLOVER, AND BOARDSHORTS, APB SKATESHOP.

[ON THE DOCK]

ON BRANDON: ALOHA

[ON THE FENCE]

TYLER:

SHIRT, TORI RICHARD; JEANS AND SUNGLASSES, APB SKATESHOP; BACKPACK, MARTIN & MACARTHUR; HAT, ROBERTA OAKS; SHOES, OLUKAI; BASKET, TIN CAN MAILMAN. ON TYLER: SHIRT AND BAG, ROBERTA OAKS; SHORTS AND TURKISH TOWEL, ALOHA SUNDAY; SHOES, OLUKAI; BRACELET, MARTIN & MACARTHUR.

ON

SHIRT AND SHORTS, TORI RICHARD; BELT, BARRIO VINTAGE; BRACELET AND RING, MARTIN & MACARTHUR. ON BRANDON: SHIRT, TORI RICHARD; BRACELETS AND RING, MARTIN & MACARTHUR.

ON TYLER: SHIRT FROM VIVIENNE WESTOOD; JEANS FROM APB SKATESHOP. ON BRANDON: T-SHIRT AND PANTS, ALOHA SUNDAY.

ACCESSORIES: BLANKET, BARRIO VINTAGE; BOOKS FROM TIN CAN MAILMAN AND ROBERTA OAKS; CANVAS BAG, ROBERTA OAKS; BASKET, TIN CAN MAILMAN; CAMERA, STYLIST’S OWN; SLIP-ON SANDALS, OLUKAI.

[AT THE RANCH]

[HIKING]

ON TYLER: SHIRT, TORI RICHARD; HAT, BARRIO VINTAGE; JEANS APB SKATESHOP. ON BRANDON: JACKET AND JEANS FROM VIVIENNE WESTWOOD; BLANKET WITH CARRYING STRAP AND BELT, BARRIO VINTAGE; SUNGLASSES AND BUTTON-DOWN SHIRT, ALOHA SUNDAY.

ON TYLER: PLAID OVER-SHIRT, BARRIO VINTAGE; T-SHIRT, ALOHA SUNDAY; SHORTS, TORI RICHARD; BRACELETS, MARTIN & MACARTHUR; HAT AND BACKPACK, ROBERTA OAKS; SHOES, OLUKAI. ON BRANDON: BUTTON-UP SHIRT, ROBERTA OAKS; BOHO OVER-SHIRT AND SHORTS, BARRIO VINTAGE; SHOES, OLUKAI; SUNGLASSES, APB SKATESHOP; BACKPACK, STYLIST’S OWN.

SAYING I DO IN PARADISE

Three couples reminisce about where they took their vows.

BEACHSIDE

Leila Finn & Sandra Neuse

History: Together 25 years, married on the 25th anniversary of their commitment, October 1, 2014

From: Atlanta, Georgia

Why Waimanalo Beach:

At first we were going to get married on Waikiki Beach, but Leila’s sister, who had lived in Honolulu for 10 years, pointed out that it would be busy. We didn’t want people wandering in and out during our ceremony! Our officiant’s website had several suggestions, including Waimanalo Beach. It was an easy drive from Waikiki, the scenery was spectacular, and it was relatively quiet.

Most memorable moment:

The ceremony. It was beautiful. We kept it very simple, with two close friends, the photographer, and the officiant, James Chun. He did a wonderful job, showing respect for the years we already had together and explaining how marriage builds upon an already wonderful and special relationship.

Advice:

Let the beautiful surroundings be your backdrop—you really don’t need anything else! Our friends picked roses up from a florist in Honolulu for a “flower shower.” Be careful what you take to the beach for this; some items aren’t allowed, like confetti or rice. Also, you do need a beach permit. Finally, don’t stress over weather forecasts. The weather in Hawai‘i changes quickly. Rain was forecast for our wedding day, but the sun came out and stayed out.

PRIVATE HOME

Darren Stover & Dav Rice

History: Met New Year’s Eve 2011, married New Year’s Eve 2014

From: Dallas, Texas

Why a private home in Hawai‘i:

We wanted it to be somewhere special, and a place that would be a vacation for our family and friends. We searched sites for vacation rentals all over the islands. Hale Lokahi on O‘ahu had all of the amenities we wanted, and rental options nearby for the rest of our friends and family. The most important thing was to have a home where we could have big communal dinners and a beautiful ceremony.

Most memorable moment:

It was the most perfect day of our lives. Our good friend married us. My two best friends from high school sang. We wrote our own vows. Our reception dinner was catered by Chef Chai, and everything was coordinated by White Orchid Wedding. The setting was perfect, from the weather to the roosters in the background to the beautiful mountain backdrop. But the most memorable part was standing in front of our family and friends and declaring our love for each other.

Advice :

Hire a professional to orchestrate everything, including the home rentals. We rented a total of four homes for 29 of us. We coordinated car rentals and travel details for everyone. It was a huge task, especially flying blind. But it all worked out.

Most memorable moment:

Tanya & Maylani Alana

History: Together 4 years, wed on February 22, 2014

From: O‘ahu, Hawai‘i

Why Queen Emma Summer Palace:

We decided to get married towards the end of December 2013. With only a little time to prepare, we had to keep costs down as much as possible. Once we took a tour, we fell in love with the place. The palace and grounds are beautiful; the atmosphere is serene. It’s secluded, a hidden gem. The fact that it was one of our queen’s homes made it that much more special.

For me, walking up the pathway with my parents, seeing our family and friends, and seeing Maylani standing at the alter looking beautiful, with happy tears in her eyes. For Maylani, walking down the stairs into the courtyard, seeing all our family and guests, and watching me walk up the pathway with tears of joy in my eyes.

Advice:

Definitely do a walkthrough a couple weeks prior to figure out the ceremony setup, the seating in the reception area, and where the entertainment will go. At Queen Emma, be sure to get the courtyard and the reception areas. We used the courtyard for the ceremony, which was perfect. Take in the beauty and the simplicity of it all.

PALACE

LIVING WITH LAVA A history and geology of the Big Island.

TEXT BY John Vavricka

The Hawaiian Island archipelago has been forming for over 80 million years. A volcanic hot spot deep below the surface of the warm Pacific Ocean supplies seemingly unlimited raw material for island building. This hot spot is fixed, but the islands themselves glide along on the Pacific Plate, one of the largest of Earth’s many tectonic plates. As this plate moves, the islands also move gradually farther and farther away from the source of their creation. Of the eight major Hawaiian Islands, Kaua‘i is the oldest, formed some 5 million years ago; Big Island is the youngest, and closest to the hot spot. In fact, the landmass we call the Big Island is made up of five volcanoes, and two of them are still considered active: Mauna Loa, which last erupted in 1984, and Kilauea, which has been actively erupting since 1983.

SO WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR REAL ESTATE ON THE BIG ISLAND?

It means that real estate here can be at risk of volcanic activity. Because the forming of the islands happens on a timescale much longer than we’re used to considering (hundreds, if not thousands, of years can pass between eruptions), the Big Island has been mapped into nine lava flow hazard zones. Zone 1 is the most likely to be affected by future volcanic activity, while Zone 9 is least likely.

Big Island land prices reflect this risk of volcanic activity. As of April 2015, Multiple Listing Service included 866 listings for land under $25,000. The vast majority of these listings are in lava zones one to four. While houses can be permitted and built in any zone, the availability of insurance and financing can be limited in the higher-risk lava zones, especially in zones one and two. Check with a local real estate agent for details on insurance and financing options.

As you explore Big Island real estate, you’ll likely discover many beautiful lots and homes in lava zones one to four. Life abounds here, where lava has met the sea and created new land. As native plants slowly begin to take root in the new rock and soil, and birds start their regular visits, there is something about the essence of these areas that is inspiring and fresh. Perhaps some day lava will come again, but in the meantime, these are incredible areas to live in, at least for a while.

More information on the Big Island lava hazard zones can be obtained from the United States Geological Survey at pubs.usgs.gov/gip/hazards.

GUIDE

EXPLORE THE SIGHTS, SOUNDS, AND SCENTS OF HAWAI‘I

On Maui, waterfalls can often be found at the end of hikes or along the scenic Road to Hana. Shown here is a waterfall at an undisclosed location in Haiku, about 14 miles from Kahului. Image by James Anshutz.

F Ê TE

HONOLULU PRIDE PARADE & FESTIVAL

June 6, 2015; from Magic Island to Kapi‘olani Park honolulupride.org

With the 2015 theme UNITY+PRIDE, this event aims to bring together all of Honolulu’s pride celebrations.

HONOLULU RAINBOW FILM FESTIVAL

June 4–7, 2015; Doris Duke Theater, 900 Kinau St. hglcf.org

This year marks the 25th installment of this LGBT film festival, one of the longest-running and celebrated festivals, featuring both national and international films.

ARTISTS OF HAWAI‘I 2015

July 2–October 25, 2015; Honolulu Museum of Art, 900 S. Beretania St. honolulumuseum.org

In its 61st year, this much-anticipated biennial juried show features the work of seven Hawai‘i artists and one art collective.

MAUI PRIDE

October 2–4, 2015 mauipride.org

Pride Weekend on Maui celebrates, encourages, and educates all people on the positive diversity of the LGBT community.

IRONMAN WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP

October 15, 2015; Hapuna Beach State Park to Mauna Lani Resort ironman.com

Known for its grueling components including a 2.4-mile swim, 112-mile bicycle ride, and 26.2-mile run, the Ironman Triathlon has been challenging athletes from around the world since it kicked off in Kona in 1978.

HAWAI‘I INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

November 12–22, 2015; various locations hiff.org

Established in 1981, the Hawai‘i International Film Festival is dedicated to the advancement of cultural exchange and media awareness in the Pacific Rim, showcasing an average of 150 features each fall.

HAWAI‘I FASHION MONTH

November, 2015; various locations hawaiifashionmonth.com

A month-long calendar of events to promote and elevate all aspects of Hawai‘i’s fashion industry, including design, manufacturing, education, art, and retail.

HONOLULU MARATHON

December 13, 2015; Ala Moana Blvd. to Kapi‘olani Park honolulumarathon.org

Whether you are a fast runner or a casual walker, with around 30,000 participants each year, this marathon is a great experience.

GREAT ALOHA RUN

February 15, 2016; Aloha Tower to Aloha Stadium greataloharun.com

Since 1985, this 8.15-mile race attracts professional runners as well as parents with children, all taking part to support the local community.

HONOLULU AIDS WALK

April 2016 lifefoundation.org

Run past landmarks such as Honolulu Hale and ‘Iolani Palace during this sponsored 3K walk or run while supporting those who live with HIV/AIDS.

LEI DAY

May 1, 2016; Queen Kapi‘olani Park, 2806 Monsarrat Ave. leiday.net

Take part in the celebration of Hawaiian culture and the spirit of aloha, and enjoy the sweet smells of the flower lei, the symbol of the Hawaiian Islands.

UNIVERSAL SHOW QUEEN

May 2016; Hawai‘i Convention Center, 1801 Kalakaua Ave. universalshowqueenpageant.com

Established in 1984, Universal Show Queen is one of Hawai‘i’s most prestigious female impersonation pageants, continuing to positively promote and enhance the art of female illusion and impersonation.

Editor’s

BY Mark Ghee Lord Galacgac

TASTE

12TH AVENUE GRILL

1120 12th Ave. (808-732-9469) 12thavegrill.com

$$$

The fresh flavors of local produce paired with chef finds like skate and farmed organic New Zealand King Salmon make for bold and interesting tastes and textures at this contemporary American restaurant.

AZURE $$$$

2259 Kalakaua Ave. (808-923-7311) azurewaikiki.com

At this Diamond Head and Waikiki beachfront dining, experience a luxurious ambience paired with fresh local fish and a Hawai‘i twist on classic mixed drinks.

BAR 35 $

35 N. Hotel St. (808-537-3535) bar35.com

Enjoy a selection of more than 150 beers from around the world and an extensive array of cocktails, wine, and sake alongside chewy, gourmet pizza at this Chinatown location’s indoor or outdoor patio bar.

CHEF CHAI

1009 Kapiolani Blvd. (808-585-0011) chefchai.com

HASR BISTRO $$ 31 N. Pauahi St.  (808-533-4277)

hasrbistro.com

With an impressive lineup of live, local music and tremendous wine selection via the accompanying wine shop next door, this Chinatown spot is great for lunch, pau hana, or dinner.

HONOLULU BURGER CO. $$ 1295 S. Beretania St. (808-626-5202) honoluluburgerco.com

At this simple burger joint, all burgers are made with 100 percent, grass-fed Big Island beef and can be topped with a variety of local favorites like Portuguese sausage, kalua pig, or braised Korean short ribs.

IL LUPINO TRATTORIA & WINE BAR $$$

Royal Hawaiian Center Level 1, 2233 Kalakaua Ave. (808-922-3400) illupino.com

Dishing out delectable Italian fare at both its indoor and alfresco bar and dining, this restaurant at the heart of Waikiki also boasts a salumeria where cured meats and cheeses are sliced in front of patrons.

$$$

Palette pampering has never been easier than with Hawaiian ingredients fused with Asian inspiration and an alluring wine list at this longtime LGBT favorite.

DORAKU $$

100 Kapiolani Blvd. (808-591-0101) dorakusushi.com

Influenced by the Japanese izakaya style of dining, this contemporary Japanese restaurant creates a casual yet sophisticated style of eating and drinking.

HANK’S HAUTE DOGS

324 Coral St. (808-532-4265) hankshautedogs.com

Presenting a creative play on the allAmerican favorite, Hank’s Haute Dogs appeals to a wide range of taste buds and diets, with great ingredients and innovative thinking.

$

JJ DOLAN’S $$

1147 Bethel St. (808-537-4992) jjdolans.com

This Irish pub stands out for its handcrafted New York pizza and handpoured drinks. Follow it on Twitter for daily pizza specials.

KOKO HEAD CAFE

$$ 1145c 12th Ave. (808-732-8920) kokoheadcafe.com

Run by famed New York-born chef Lee Anne Wong, this island-style brunch house is quickly becoming one of O‘ahu’s favorite spots for sweet (black pepper maple pancakes; peanut butter, banana, bacon sandwich) and savory (breakfast bibimbop with bacon, Portuguese sausage, and heritage ham) daytime dining.

KALAPAWAI CAFÉ & DELI

750 Kailua Rd. (808-262-3354)

kalapawaimarket.com

This spacious bistro-style stop features an impressive small-plate menu with a focus on clean, seasonal flavors and tidy presentation. The sweet potato ravioli in sage brown butter sauce and the bone-in pork chop are must-try.

LONGHI’S

Ala Moana Shopping Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. (808-947-9899)

Though Longhi’s is known for fresh fish, prime steaks, and succulent lobsters, it also has one of the best eggs benedicts on the island.

MAI TAI BAR

Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. (808-947-2900)

maitaibar.com

Great for catching the game during the day, this open-air bar is one of the best places for happy hour and is where locals dance the night away to reggae and Hawaiian music.

MANIFEST

32 N. Hotel St. (808-523-7575)

manifesthawaii.com

This downtown favorite is a modern coffee shop by day and cultural, sophisticated cocktail bar by night, featuring popular deejays weekly, rotating art exhibitions, and small bites.

NICO’S

1129 N. Nimitz Hwy. (808-540-1377)

nicospier38.com

Located on Pier 38, this waterfront restaurant presents fresh, locally caught fish and is great for breakfast or lunch.

PIG AND THE LADY

83 N. King St. (808-585-8255) thepigandthelady.com

Inspired by his mother’s home-cooked meals, chef Andrew Le presents contemporary French-Vietnamese fare that farmers-market regulars have come to know and love. Com ga hoi an; pho French dip; bun bo hue.

PINT + JIGGER $$

1936 S King St. (808-744-9593)

pintandjigger.com

Escape for a moment at this modern public house, which intertwines craft beers and original cocktails with savory food in a classic social atmosphere.

RUMFIRE

2255 Kalakaua Ave. (808-922-4422) rumfirewaikiki.com

$$

Lounge in the warm atmosphere of this restaurant with 180-degree views of Waikiki or sit outside in the sun’s rays and indulge in social comfort food with local influences and an impressive rum selection.

TANGO CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ

1288 Ala Moana Blvd., Ste. 120 (808-593-7288) tangocafehawaii.com

Enjoy Scandinavian-Asian inspired cuisine in a minimalist contemporary atmosphere that makes you feel like you’re picnicking in a park.

TOWN

3435 Waialae Ave. (808-735-5900) townkaimuki.com

This unpretentious American bistro’s menu changes daily based on the freshest ingredients available, enticing diners to come back for more.

WAIOLU OCEAN VIEW LOUNGE

$$

$$

$$ 223 Saratoga Rd. (808-683-7777)

Inspired by the simplicity of tapas, guests can dine in an intimate setting for two or choose to share flavorful small-plate creations while sipping specialty drinks using only the freshest ingredients.

SHOP

ALA MOANA SHOPPING CENTER 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. (808-955-9517) alamoanacenter.com

The world’s largest outdoor shopping center, with over 290 stores and restaurants to peruse.

ALOHA SUNDAY SUPPLY CO.

$$ 131 Hekili St. alohasunday.com

This retail concept offers finely tailored clothing built around the concept of dressing for occasion and is inspired by life in Hawai‘i and other resortcentric locales.

IN4MATION

Chinatown, 1154 Nuuanu Ave. (808-538-8898); McCully, 2009 S. King St. (808-941-8381); Pearlridge, 98-1005 Moanalua Rd. (808-488-0411)

$$

In4mation’s strength in this niche market is built upon a set of varied experiences, embodying Hawai‘i’s action sports, lifestyle, and retail market. In4mation carries alternative design concepts, eclectic lines, and products for both men and women.

MARTIN & MACARTHUR

Twelve stores on O‘ahu, Maui, Kaua‘i and the Big Island, including Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. (808-941-0074) martinandmacarthur.com

$$$

The Hawai‘i craftsmen of Martin & MacArthur create innovative personal accessories and home furnishings from koa, the beautiful wood that grows only in Hawai‘i. Enjoy koa watches, koa sunglasses, koa rings, koa-leather handbags, koa iPhone covers, and fine koa jewelry.

MAUI DIVERS JEWELRY

Jewelry Design Center, 1520 Liona St. (800-253-6016) mauidivers.com

$$$

Founded in 1959, Maui Divers Jewelry is Hawai‘i’s largest jewelry manufacturer and retailer. Their island inspired, hand created collections, featuring corals, pearls, diamonds, peridot, and other gemstones, are guaranteed forever.

MONO

2013 S. King St. (808-955-1595) monohawaii.com

Inspired by the careful curation of boutiques in Japan, this lifestyle shop specializes in small design goods for the home and office.

OLIVER MEN’S SHOP

49 Kihapai St. (808-261-6587) oliverhawaii.com

A surf-inspired lifestyle boutique, this men’s store features some of the most hard-to-find contemporary brands like Aloha Sunday, Saturdays, Mucho Aloha, and M.Nii.

OWENS & CO.

1152 Nuuanu Ave. (808-531-4300) owensandcompany.com

Located on a corner in the historic Chinatown Arts district, this bright boutique offers a fantastic collection of home accessories, gifts, and vintage items.

REYN SPOONER

Ala Moana Center, Kahala Mall, and Sheraton Waikiki Hotel; additional locations online reynspooner.com

This manufacturer of modern aloha attire has been featuring original patterns and its iconic reverse-print since 1956.

ROYAL HAWAIIAN CENTER

2201 Kalakaua Ave. (808-922-2299) royalhawaiiancenter.com

Located in the heart of Waikiki, shop more than 100 stores and restaurants, with complimentary music, hula, and culture classes in The Royal Grove.

TIFFANY & CO.

2100 Kalakaua Ave. (808-926-2600) tiffany.com

Since 1837, the masterpieces of Tiffany & Co. have defined style and celebrated the world’s greatest love stories. Explore a rich heritage and legendary jewels at one of their O‘ahu locations in Waikiki or at Ala Moana Shopping Center.

TORI RICHARD $$

2335 Kalakaua Ave. (808-924-1811) toririchard.com

A resort lifestyle company founded in Honolulu in 1956, Tori Richard remains a family business driven by an appreciation of unique fabrications for their globally and locally inspired alohawear.

STAY

ALI‘I BLUFFS WINDWARD B&B $$ 46-251 Ikiiki St. (808-235-1124) aliibluffshawaii.com

Ali‘i Bluffs is located in a quiet, suburban neighborhood and features two rooms, each with a distinct theme. The first room is circus-themed and the second room is Victorian-themed. There is a swimming pool on the premises.

AQUA OASIS, A JOY HOTEL

320 Lewers St. (808-441-7781) aquaoasishotel.com

Housing the popular Kimukatsu restaurant and a karaoke lounge, Aqua Oasis has modern rooms, free WiFi, soaking tubs, and free continental breakfast.

HALEKULANI

2199 Kalia Rd. (844-288-8022) halekulani.com

$$

$$$$

Just steps from the beach, Halekulani welcomes travelers to an oasis of sophisticated luxury in the heart of a revitalized Waikiki, blending serenity, understated elegance, and exceptional service into an oasis of tranquility.

HILTON HAWAIIAN VILLAGE

$$$ 2005 Kalia Rd. (800-949-4321) hiltonhawaiianvillage.com

The Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort is situated on 22 oceanfront acres of Waikiki beach amid lush tropical gardens and fragrant flowers. Explore shops and boutiques and a diverse selection of restaurants.

HILTON WAIKIKI BEACH $$ 2500 Kuhio Ave. (808-922-0811) hiltonwaikikibeach.com

Located a block from Waikiki beach, this modern hotel offers rooms with chic decor, custom designed beds, and lanais. Enjoy a pleasant walk to Kapiolani Park, lounge on the sundeck by the outdoor pool, or relax with a refreshing cocktail at the pool bar.

HOTEL RENEW

129 Paoakalani Ave. (808-687-7700) hotelrenew.com

$$

Hotel Renew by Aston offers a place of rest located amidst the bustle of Waikiki. Acclaimed San Francisco designer Jiun Ho carefully crafted the hotel’s interior to appeal to those seeking the island lifestyle.

HYATT REGENCY WAIKIKI

$$$ 2424 Kalakaua Ave. (808-923-1234) waikiki.hyatt.com

The Hyatt Regency is a four-star hotel situated along Waikiki Beach, with views of Diamond Head. According to Condé Nast’s readers, Hyatt Regency’s spa is one of the top 250 spas worldwide.

THE KAHALA RESORT

$$$$ 5000 Kahala Ave. (808-739-8888) kahalaresort.com

This legendary hideaway Hawaii resort in Honolulu's plush Kahala district is a favorite with presidents, international royalty, and celebrities. From the moment you arrive, you will know that you are truly somewhere special.

MOANA SURFRIDER

$$$ 2365 Kalakaua Ave. (808-922-3111) moana-surfrider.com

In the heart of Waikiki Beach, the Moana Surfrider introduced the world to Hawaiian hospitality in 1901. Often referred to as the “First lady of Waikiki,” this oceanfront O‘ahu hotel is a legendary landmark. Step back into yesteryear, with all the contemporary amenities and unique services to make your vacation both memorable and enjoyable.

THE MODERN HONOLULU $$$

1775 Ala Moana Blvd. (808-943-5800) themodernhonolulu.com

The Modern Honolulu is a AAA four-diamond hotel. Every room and suite is a study in white and sleek minimalism, and features down comforters and pillows, a 46-inch LCD TV, and 24-hour room service.

OHANA BEACH RENTALS

Various locations on O‘ahu (808-923-9099) obrhi.com

$$$

Since 2009, Ohana Beach Rentals Hawaii has been providing its customers with high-end luxury vacation rentals on O‘ahu. With over 100 luxury vacation rentals to choose from, Ohana Beach Rentals is the leading expert when it comes to renting and managing high-end condos, homes, and beach estates.

OUTRIGGER REEF WAIKIKI BEACH RESORT $$

2169 Kalia Rd. (808-923-3111) outrigger.com

Located just steps from exciting Waikiki Beach Walk, where you can find art, fashion, and fine dining, Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Resort offers stunning ocean views, cultural performances by such Hawaiian music legends, and the perfect backdrop for island weddings.

OUTRIGGER WAIKIKI BEACH RESORT $$

2335 Kalakaua Ave. (808-923-0711) outrigger.com

Home to Duke’s Waikiki, the legendary beachfront bar and restaurant where you can sip a cool cocktail and hear Henry Kapono perform weekly, this Waikiki hotel is just steps to luxury shopping and non-stop nightlife. There couldn’t be a more perfect spot to sink your toes in the sand and gaze at iconic Diamond Head.

PARADISE BAY RESORT $$

47-039 Lihikai Dr. (808-239-571) paradisebayresort.com

A stunning vacation getaway on O‘ahu’s eastside, this resort offers sweeping views of the Ko‘olau Mountains and Kane‘ohe Bay with charming cottages and suites right on the water.

THE ROYAL HAWAIIAN

2259 Kalakaua Ave. (808-923-7311) royal-hawaiian.com

$$$

The Royal Hawaiian Hotel is a Waikiki Beach landmark resort that is an icon of luxury and romance. The Royal Hawaiian is a member of Starwood Hotels & Resorts’ elite coterie of Luxury Collection properties.

SHERATON WAIKIKI

2255 Kalakaua Ave. (808-922-4422) Sheraton-waikiki.com

$$$

The Sheraton Waikiki is a modern monument to traditional Hawaiian hospitality. This O‘ahu hotel is perfect for families seeking Hawai‘i activities, couples in search of romance, or weary travelers looking for a rejuvenating escape at Hawai‘i’s famous Waikiki Beach.

TURTLE BAY RESORT

57-091 Kamehameha Hwy. (808-293-6000) turtlebayresort.com

$$$

Situated on one of the world’s most scenic peninsulas, Turtle Bay is as inspiring as it is luxurious. Surrounded by astonishing blue waters and a tropical backdrop, this is what the North Shore is all about.

VIVE HOTEL WAIKIKI

$$ 2426 Kuhio Ave. (808-687-2000) vivehotelwaikiki.com

Vive Hotel Waikiki is O‘ahu’s newest lifestyle boutique hotel, offering you an inviting and stylish place to call home while visiting the islands. Warm and friendly service combined with a sophisticated coastal-casual design is the hallmark of the property, making for a quiet and calm retreat just steps from the vibrancy of Waikiki.

WAIKIKI BEACH MARRIOTT RESORT & SPA

$$$ 2552 Kalakaua Ave. (808-922-6611) marriott.com/hotels/travel/hnlmc-waikiki-beach-marriott-resort-and-spa Retreat to a tropical playground at the Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, one of the first hotel companies to offer equal employee benefits to same-sex couples nationwide and rated one the best places to work for LGBT equality. Situated only steps from the Pacific Ocean, this Waikiki resort spans 5.2 acres of picturesque beauty and splendor, ideal for a getaway.

PLAY

BACCHUS

$$ 408 Lewers St. bacchus-waikiki.com

A casual, friendly bar with an outdoor lanai, Bacchus is a place where locals and visitors connect, offering classic cocktails and local, craft beer, booze, music, and fun every day.

CHIKO’S

$$ 930 McCully St. (808-949-5440) chikostavern.com

Chiko’s Tavern is a casual neighborhood bar with a warm, friendly atmosphere. Chiko’s is an LGBT-friendly venue that has karaoke, a pool table, and dartboards.

FUSION

$$ 2260 Kuhio Ave. (808-924-2422) fusionwaikiki.com

Fusion Waikiki is the only gay bar and nightclub in Waikiki that is licensed to serve alcohol until 4 a.m. Every Friday and Saturday the venue hosts drag shows at 9:45 p.m. and male strippers at 12:15 a.m. Fusion also features nightly drink specials.

LOJAX

$$ 2256 Kuhio Ave. (808-922-1422) lojaxwaikiki.com

LoJax is a comfortable place to watch sporting events on a plethora of flat-screen TVs, but that’s not all it has to offer. LoJax has happy hours, specials, a kitchen open on the weekends until 1:30am, and a patio overlooking Waikiki.

WAIALUA SUGAR MILL

Once a hub of the sugar industry, the Waialua Sugar Mill on O‘ahu’s North Shore is now a sweet spot for makers of everything from surfboards to soap. Here, you can find world-famous surfboard makers like Eric Arakawa and Pyzel Surfboards, whose riders include North-Shore born John John Florence, the youngest-ever Triple Crown of Surfing champion. But surfboards are far from the whole story. You can also find goods from North Shore Soap Factory, jewelry from V Boutique, and items like powdered kava, roasted boar, and shave ice with homemade liliko‘i syrup at Island X Hawaii.

The Waialua Sugar Mill is located in Waialua at 67-106 Kealohanui St. For more information, visit waialuasugarmill.com.

HULA’S BAR AND LEI STAND $$

134 Kapahulu Ave. (808-923-0669) hulas.com

Hula’s is a world-famous gay bar located on the second floor of the Waikiki Grand Hotel. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 2 a.m., Hula’s offers a Monday–Friday happy hour from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., daily drink specials, and views of Diamond Head and Waikiki Beach.

IN BETWEEN $$

2155 Lauula St. (808-926-7060) inbetweenonline.com

Waikiki’s hidden treasure, this intimate and friendly hotspot is a little hard to find but worth the searching out with its friendly staff and patrons, great drink specials, and karaoke. In Between offers free Wi-Fi and is open noon until 2 a.m.

MAX’S GYM $$

438 Hobron Ln. (808-951-8233) maxsgym.net

Max’s Gym offers gay and bisexual men a place to work out or just hang out. Its facilities are open from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. Monday through Thursday and 24 hours on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. You must be 18 years of age and purchase a membership to enter. Max’s offers a dry sauna, showers, dark maze, large screen theater, lounge, and gym to its members.

TAPA’S $$

407 Seaside Ave. (808-921-2288) tapaswaikiki.com

Tapa’s is open 2 p.m.–2 a.m. from Monday through Friday and 9 a.m.–2 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. Located in the heart of Waikiki, Tapa’s features a lanai, jukebox, karaoke, a neighborhood bar ambiance, and friendly bartenders.

WANG CHUNG’S $$

2424 Koa Ave. (808-921-9176) wangchungs.com

Located behind the Hyatt Regency Hotel, this tiny karaoke bar is tucked away in an alley alongside other small local businesses. Wang Chung’s is one of the friendliest bars in Waikiki, features great karaoke, and always has free bear hugs available.

EXPLORE

DIAMOND HEAD BEACH PARK

Park at the crest of Diamond Head Rd. and walk down to the beach.

Though the beach is just a narrow strip of sand, Diamond Head has been a favorite of gay beachgoers who are looking for a less-crowded alternative to Waikiki Beach.

GAY VACATIONS HAWAII

680 Iwilei Rd., Suite 100 (888-512-0212) gayvacationshawaii.com

Hawai‘i’s gay travel company and tours specialist for group travel arrangements or the discerning individual looking to truly discover the Aloha of Hawaii. Flights, accommodations, custom guided LGBT tours, and entertainment packages available.

HANAUMA BAY NATURE PRESERVE

7455 Kalanianaole Hwy. (808-396-4229)

Declared a protected marine life conservation in 1967, this curved bay offers some of the best snorkeling and scuba diving for beginners and advanced alike. Free for residents and military stationed in Hawai‘i.

HONOLULU MUSEUM OF ART & SPALDING HOUSE

900 S. Beretania St. (808-532-8700); 2411 Makiki Heights Dr. (808-526-1322) honolulumuseum.org

The Honolulu Museum of Art is Hawai‘i’s largest private presenter of visual arts programs, with an internationally recognized collection of more than 50,000 works spanning 5,000 years, and features contemporary works at its Spalding House location. Free every third Sunday and first Wednesday.

‘IOLANI PALACE

364 S. King St. (808-522-0822) iolanipalace.org

The official residence of Hawai‘i’s former monarchy, ‘Iolani Palace is a marvel of opulence, innovation, and political intrigue. Enjoy one of the most spectacular living restorations in all of Polynesia.

KAIMANA BEACH

2863 Kalakaua Ave.

The most popular gay beach, as well as one of the most scenic, Kaimana’s is also a favorite of local families seeking refuge from crowded beaches nearby.

KUALOA RANCH

49-560 Kamehameha Hwy. (808-457-4369) kualoa.com

Explore Kualoa and its 4,000 acres of history, beauty, and adventure. The ranch offers zipline tours, horseback riding tours, and ATV tours, as well as a Secret Island ocean adventure, a tropical jungle expedition, and their ever-popular Hollywood movie sites tour.

TASTE

808 BISTRO $$

2511 S. Kihei Rd. (808-879-8008) 808bistro.com

Set in a spacious open verandah capturing beautiful views, here patrons get to experience the savory tastes of two chefs originally famous for 808 Deli’s sandwiches.

CAFÉ MAMBO $$

30 Baldwin Ave. (808- 579-8021) cafemambomaui.com

Located in the eclectic surfer town of Paia, this consistent favorite of locals has been serving up some of the island’s best omelettes, burgers, burritos, and fajitas around.

CAPISCHE?

555 Kaukahi St. (808-879-2224) capische.com

$$$$

One of Maui’s top gay-friendly restaurants, this romantic, garden-side restaurant serves a fusion of fare from Southern France and Northern Italy, with impeccable service by a wait staff that’s easy on the eyes.

DUO STEAK & SEAFOOD $$$

Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr. (808-874-8000) fourseasons.com/maui/dining

Arguably the best steakhouse on Maui, Duo is one out of a handful of restaurants in the U.S. to serve organic Japanese kobe steak. The beautifully marbled steaks melt in your mouth, and the truffle butter popcorn and cotton candy make for cute pre- and post-dining gifts.

FLATBREAD COMPANY

89 Hana Hwy. (808-579-8989) flatbreadcompany.com

$$

This casual eatery uses local, fresh, sustainable ingredients on its thin-crust flatbread pizzas.

GAZEBO RESTAURANT

$$ Napili Shores, 5315 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd. (808-669-5621)

Arresting views in a casual gazebo setting, and its pineapple macadamia nut pancakes, make this restaurant a must. Get there early to beat the line or order to go.

GERARD’S RESTAURANT

174 Lahainaluna Rd.  (808-661-8939) gerardsmaui.com

HALI‘IMAILE GENERAL STORE

900 Hali‘imaile Rd. (808-572-2666)

bevgannonrestaurants.com/haliimaile

$$$$

Located in Plantation Inn, this award-winning French restaurant combines classic French culinary arts with Maui’s fresh, island products.

$$$

Dine at an old plantation-style home converted into a bright, casual restaurant featuring eclectic American food with Asian undertones.

HONU SEAFOOD AND PIZZA

1295 Front St. (808-667-9390) honumaui.com

$$$

A quintessential seafood restaurant that also boasts a gluten-free menu, Honu Seafood and Pizza is set in an open and airy environment amidst sails and undulating waves, all wrapped up in simple elegance.

KA‘ANA KITCHEN

Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr. (808-573-1234) maui.andaz.hyatt.com

$$$

Featuring old world flavor with new world innovation, this family style restaurant sources from local farmers, foragers, and locavores.

LA PROVENCE

3158 Lower Kula Rd. (808-878-1313)

$$

Nestled in Kula, this fine French dining alcove attracts guests from all over the island. With a separate and substantial crepe menu and a wide selection of pastries behind glass windows, you can almost close your eyes and find yourself in Paris.

LAHAINA GRILL

127 Lahainaluna Rd. (808-667-5117) lahainagrill.com

$$$

This contemporary bistro favorite offers a refined yet comfortable atmosphere. A few menu favorites include the Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb, Maui onion crusted seared ahi, and triple berry pie.

LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP

820 Olowalu Village Rd. (808-662-3600) leodas.com

$$

Boasting casual, family-style dining in a comfortable plantation-era atmosphere, Leoda’s features farm-fresh and sustainable ingredients in its handcrafted sandwiches, salads, baked goods, and of course, pie.

LONGHI’S LAHAINA

888 Front St. (808-667-2288) longhis.com

$$$

Located on historic Front Street, enjoy fresh seafood, succulent steaks, and signature pastas at this original Lahaina location.

MAMA’S FISH HOUSE

799 Poho Pl. (808-579-8488)   mamasfishhouse.com

Rated as one of Maui’s finest dining establishments, this restaurant is not only celebrated for its seafood dishes but its fine hospitality as well. The staggering seafood menu changes daily according to the daily fresh catch.

MAUI KOMBUCHA

810 Kokomo Rd. (808-575-5233) mauikombucha.com

Perfect for the health food enthusiast, this cafe serving raw food and freshly made kombucha is the cheaper, healthy route to a day-time drunken adventure in case you don’t have the money (or patience) to roam around the lecture-filled wineries on Maui.

MERRIMAN’S RESTAURANT - KAPALUA

One Bay Club Pl. (808-669-6400) merrimanshawaii.com/kapalua

Dine in the most stunning ocean front location on Maui, directly on the point of majestic Kapalua Bay. Merriman’s offers a farm-to-table concept and excellent service in paradise.

MIGRANT MAUI

Wailea Beach Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr. (808-875-9394) migrantmaui.com

Island flavors and grandma’s cooking inspire this Top Chef finalist’s Wailea restaurant, which includes contemporary takes on Filipino classics alongside Asian-fusion fare.

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN

10 Wailea Gateway Pl. (808-891-2322) monkeypodkitchen.com

A place for foodies, beer lovers, and families alike, this relaxed restaurant is dedicated to handcrafted food including fresh island fish, hand-tossed pizzas, and homemade cream pies.

PACIFIC’O

505 Front St. (808-667-4341) pacificomaui.com

A dining experience setting the new standard for farm-to-table cuisine, this beachfront restaurant features a contemporary menu from the land and the sea.

PAIA FISH MARKE

100 Baldwin Ave. (808-579-8030) paiafishmarket.com

Grab a seat on the bench and enjoy a Paia gem, served with a side of friendly conversation.

PLANTATION HOUSE

2000 Plantation Club Dr. (808-669-6299) theplantationhouse.com

Known for its casual elegance and island-style ambiance, this award-winning restaurant serves innovative cuisine in a picturesque setting overlooking the fairways.

STAR NOODLE

286 Kupuohi St. (808-667-5400)

starnoodle.com

Enjoy fresh, house-made noodles and other Asian specialties, like the Filipino bacon and eggs or the Vietnamese crepe, at this contemporary restaurant.

SHOP

22 KNOTS

3900 Wailea Alanui Dr. (808-874-8000)

$$$$

Find luxury tucked away in the Four Seasons Resort Maui at 22 knots, where collections from Oscar de la Renta, Tory Burch, Jimmy Choo, and more grace breezy shops.

CABANA

3900 Wailea Alanui Dr. (808-874-8000)

$$$

A “three-in-one” store including men’s, women’s, and children’s merchandise, this shop holds exclusive collections fit for any member of the family.

FRONT STREET

900 Front St.

The main thoroughfare for Lahaina, Front Street is lined with tons of great restaurants, shopping, art galleries, and plenty of sightseeing opportunities. A popular nightlife spot, many bars and clubs dot this block as well. Park and walk around.

MAUI HANDS

612 Front St. (808-667-9898); 200 Nohea Kai Dr. (808-667-7997); 1169 Makawao Ave. (808-572-2008); 84 Hana Hwy. (808-579-9245) mauihands.com

$$$

Representing more than 300 Hawai‘i artists, these art galleries at four locations across Maui are a great place to gaze at a showcase of fine art and take home distinct Hawaiian gifts.

THE OUTLETS OF MAUI

900 Front St. (808-661-8277)

Experience the world’s only oceanfront outlet shopping center in a historic island destination. Shop more than 30 legendary global brands with real savings, and enjoy great food and entertainment. Open daily 9:30 a.m to 10 p.m. with two hours validated parking with purchase.

THE SHOPS AT WAILEA

3750 Wailea Alanui Dr. (808-891-6770) shopsatwailea.com

Situated in the Wailea Resort, this shopping center has something for everyone, from luxury-brand stores to local retailers, dining, and several art galleries.

WHALERS VILLAGE

2435 Ka‘anapali Pkwy. (808-661-4567) whalersvillage.com

Seconds from Ka‘anapali Beach, this outdoor shopping center boasts 90 stores and restaurants as well as the Whalers Village Museum.

STAY

KEALIA RESORT $$

191 N. Kihei Rd. (800-265-0686) kealiaresort.com

Located just steps from Maui’s Sugar Beach on the quiet end of Kihei, these oceanfront condos offer amazing views in a private setting.

KIHEI BEACH RESORT $$

37 S. Kihei Rd. (800-367-6034) kiheibeachresorts.com

These oceanfront condos offer all the conveniences of home while on your tropical getaway, as well as spectacular views of Ma‘alaea Bay, Kaho‘olawe, and Molokini.

LUMERIA MAUI

1813 Baldwin Ave. (855-579-8877) lumeriamaui.com

A sanctuary of peace and tranquility that allows guests to recalibrate the mind, restore the body, and return to the whisper of the soul, this luxurious eco-boutique hotel offers daily classes and programs in health and wellness, yoga and meditation, nutrition, detox and cleansing, personal growth, sacred music, cultural experiences, nature, and adventure.

MAUI HYATT $$$

200 Nohea Kai Dr. (808-661-1234) maui.hyatt.com

Surrounded by lush, immaculately landscaped beachfront, this breathtaking Maui hotel presents an array of delightful ways to spend your days and nights.

MAUI SUNSEEKER

551 S. Kihei Rd. (808-879-1261) mauisunseeker.com

Maui Sunseeker is the largest LGBT resort on the island. The Sunseeker is an adults-only property, as personal freedom includes a clothing-optional pool/hot tub area and rooftop deck

MONTAGE KAPALUA BAY

1 Bay Dr. (808-626-6600) montagehotels.com/kapaluabay

$$$$

Set along picturesque Kapalua Bay, this location features luxurious residences as well as a market, spa, and three-level pool overlooking the ocean.

THE WESTIN MAUI RESORT & SPA

$$$ 2365 Kaanapali Pkwy. (808-6678-2525) westinmaui.com

Surrounded by lush gardens, this resort along the legendary Ka‘anapali Beach features oversized architecture furnished in contemporary style, while the resort’s expansive pool is perfect for family or quiet relaxation.

PINEAPPLE INN $$

3170 Akala Dr. (808-298-4403) pineappleinnmaui.com

Pineapple Inn is a luxury vacation rental property located directly above the exclusive Wailea Beach Resort community, near sandy beaches, excellent shopping, and six golf courses. The well-kept grounds feature a pool, hot tub, manicured lawns, and gardens full of flowering shrubs and tropical fruits.

TRAVAASA HOTEL HANA

5031 Hana Hwy. (808-248-8211) travaasa.com/hana

$$$$

Long considered one of the most remarkable resorts in Hawai‘i, Travaasa Hana (formerly known as Hotel Hana Maui) was voted the “No. 1 Resort in Hawai‘i” in Conde Nast Traveler’s 2011 Reader’s Choice Awards. Located in the town of Hana on the eastern tip of Maui, Travaasa Hana is the first resort on the island to greet the rising sun.

PLAY

AMBROSIA MARTINI LOUNGE

Kihei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kihei Rd. (808-891-1011) ambrosiamaui.com

Maui’s official gay bar, this trendy little hole-in-the-wall offers unique mixed drinks, daily entertainment, and specials. Try one of the nibbles with a specialty martini or a selection of high-end wines, beers, and spirits.

SOUTH

SHORE TIKI LOUNGE

Kihei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kihei Rd. (808-874-6444) southshoretikilounge.com

Experience a bit of Hawaiian kitsch paired with some of the island’s best sausages, burgers, and pizzas at this gay-friendly bar that remains a favorite place to pass through, have a drink, and dance.

MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA

IMAGE BY Anna Kim

The sweeping ocean views of Maui’s Kapalua Bay and award winning farm-to-table cuisine originally drew Los Angeles couple Seth Whitlow and Michael Cinquemani to dine at Merriman’s Kapalua, but the combination of the two is ultimately what lead them to choose the restaurant as their dream wedding location. This foodie couple, who wanted only the best of the best to celebrate their nuptials, elected the restaurant’s ocean-front deck for their sunset ceremony, and a locally sourced dinner of freshly caught monchong, scallops, filet, and lobster. The lively reception continued on an open-air dance floor while guests sipped house made cocktails and raised flags adorned with the word “Yay!”

Merriman’s Kapalua is located at 1 Bay Club Pl. For more information, visit merrimanshawaii.com/kapalua.

EXPLORE

HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK

Upcountry Maui

nps.gov/hale (808-572-4400)

Comprised of two distinct but equally beautiful areas, there is an array of sights to behold at the “House of the Sun.” At the summit, view some of the most dramatic sunrises at 10,000 feet above sea level, then journey down to the coast to take in majestic waterfalls, serene pools, and lush forests.

HAWAII SEA SPIRITS ORGANIC DISTILLERY AND FARM

4051 Omaopio Rd. (808-877-0009) oceanvodka.com

Take a farm tour of this organic local manufacturer of Ocean Organic Vodka and Deep Island Hawaiian Rum, both made with sugar cane and deep ocean mineral water on Maui, and learn about the importance of organic farming for the conservation of land and ocean, green manufacturing, and the production of spirits.

HONOLUA BAY

North on Highway 31 near mile marker 33; enter the small access road to your left.

Part of the Mokuleia Marine Life Conservation District, this bay is great for snorkeling during summer months, especially near cliff faces, and is a famous big-wave surfing spot during the winter.

‘IAO VALLEY STATE PARK

End of Iao Valley Rd., Highway 32

This historic state park is home to one of Maui’s most recognizable landmarks, the 1,200-foot ‘Iao Needle, which served as a lookout point for King Kamehameha I in his quest to unite the islands. Great beginning hikes and sightseeing.

KA‘ANAPALI BEACH PARK

Off Hwy. 30 in Lahaina

Once an ancient playground for Hawai‘i’s kings, this beautiful white-sand beach is the most gay-friendly beach on the island, with a beautiful swimming spot just a few minutes away from Black Rock.

LITTLE BEACH

Off Makena Road

Beyond its reputation as Maui’s infamous nude beach, Little Beach also offers many paths behind it that lead to hidden areas where people go and have a little outdoor fun. If you’re lucky, you may stumble upon the parties here on Sundays—nude fire dancing, drinking, barbequing, Maui Wowie, and more.

MAKENA STATE PARK

South of Wailea, near Makena Beach and Golf Resort

One of the largest beaches on Maui, this ocean-side park is known as “Big Beach” for a reason. Caution: The shore breaks can be very dangerous. Paid parking.

MAUI ARTS & CULTURE CENTER

1 Cameron Way (808-242-2787) mauiarts.org

Connecting artists and community, MACC is a performing arts complex with a wide range of musical and theatre events including symphony, hula, ballet, and taiko drumming.

THE MILL HOUSE AT MAUI TROPICAL PLANTATION

1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy. (808-244-7643) mtpmaui.com

Explore the rustic elegance of an authentic tropical plantation featuring an ambience of recovered trains and sugar mill gears from circa 1890. Enjoy multi-faceted attractions, farm-fresh cuisine, trademark bar, live shows, and intimate wedding settings.

PIIHOLO RANCH ADVENTURES

1156 Makawao Ave. (808-572-1717) piiholozipline.com

At Piiholo Ranch, your adventure awaits. Experience Hawai‘i’s longest side-by-side zipline and take in mauka (mountain) to makai (ocean) views while zipping through Maui’s upcountry forest.

ROAD TO HANA

There is much to see and do down the famous 52-mile road to Hana. Be sure to stop at waterfalls and natural pools along the way, as well as The Garden of Eden botanical garden. Don’t try to pack it all into one day; stay the night at one of the treetop cottages or bungalows along the way.

WAIANAPANAPA BLACK SAND BEACH

Highway 360, past mile marker 32

This beach features a remote, wild, low-cliffed volcanic coastline, offering solitude and respite from urban life. Families camp, fish, and occasionally hike the coastal trail that leads into Hana.

WHALE WATCHING

Whale watching is breathtaking, especially from on Maui during whale season. The giant blue whales flock to the waters that surround the valley isle to teach their young to breach. There are great tours that leave out of Ma‘alaea Harbor, on the south shore, and tours from Ka‘anapali Beach for those staying on the west side. The whales come right up to the boats, curious about what is sharing the waters with them. Most tours provide refreshments for children and adults.

Visit pacificwhale.org.

TASTE

BIG ISLAND BREWHAUS

64-1066 Mamalahoa Hwy. (808-887-1717)

Known as Big Island Brewhouse, this taqueria is known for their beers on tap and fun atmosphere and with Big Island’s paniolo (cowboy) culture serves up some nice Mexican fare.

BIG ISLAND GRILL

75-5702 Kuakini Hwy. (808-326-1153)

The secret’s out, Big Island Grill serves up huge servings of localized American home-cooking for ultra-reasonable prices. This place is always packed, from breakfast to dinner, so be prepared to wait.

BUNS IN THE SUN

75-5595 Palani Rd. (808-326-2774) bunsinthesunhawaii.com

This Kona bakery in known for having Kona’s best baked goods, including croissants, breads, cakes, and pastries, in addition to deli options for breakfast and lunch.

CAFE 100

969 Kilauea Ave. (808) 935-8683 cafe100.com

Originally opened in 1946, this home-style cafe serves great local favorites with a menu of over 30 different varieties. Enjoy a place where generous portions meet affordable prices.

CANOEHOUSE

68-1400 Mauna Lani Dr. (808-881-7911) maunalani.com/dining/canoe-house

Offering breathtaking views of the Pacific, this Hawaiian plantationstyle establishment focuses on using island-fresh, sustainable ingredients.

DA POKE SHACK

76-6246 Ali‘i Dr. (808-329-7653) dapokeshack.com

Rated the best restaurant in the nation by Yelp in 2014, this nondescript joint offers unique poke bowls and Hawaiian plates.

DON THE BEACHCOMBER

75-5852 Ali‘i Dr. (808-329-3111)

At the original home of the mai tai, enjoy beachfront dining and a retro tiki-chic atmosphere, including Don’s original mai tai.

THE FISH AND THE HOG

64-957 Mamalahoa Hwy. thefishandthehog.com

This charming country café in Waimea offers hearty Southern barbecue dishes, like pulled pork, beef brisket, and pork ribs, alongside lighter fare like fresh island fish and salads.

HAWAIIAN STYLE CAFE $

65-1290 Kawaihae Rd. (808-885-4295)

This small country kitchen serves up local favorites for breakfast. The pancakes are a great pick, just be prepared for large portions.

HUGGO'S $$$

75-5828 Kahakai Rd. (808-329-1493) huggos.com

With its waterfront location, Huggos has earned a reputation as Kona’s premiere restaurant for fresh seafood, oceanfront ambiance, and casual elegance. Favorite menu items include locally caught ahi tuna tower, Big Island farm-raised Kumamoto oysters, and Kailua Bay cioppino.

ISLAND LAVA JAVA $$

75-5799 Ali‘i Dr. (808-327-2161); 68-1845 Waikoloa Rd. (808- 769-5202) islandlavajava.com

Voted “best breakfast in Kona,” this bistro is the favorite coffee house of residents, using only grass-fed Big Island beef, organic goat cheeses, and other locally grown organic produce. Get there early to snag the yummy pull-apart bread.

ISLAND NATURALS MARKET & DELI $ 1221 Kilauea Ave. (808-935-5533) islandnaturals.com

At this health food store voted best on Hawai‘i nine years in a row, find an award-winning deli and an extensive salad bar.

KANAKA KAVA

$ 75-5803 Ali‘i Dr. (866-327-1660) kanakakava.com

This outdoor bar-like setting serves certified organic kava grown locally on the Big Island. You can also enjoy pupus here, but the main attraction is definitely a bowl of traditional kava.

KEN’S HOUSE OF PANCAKES

$$ 1730 Kamehameha Ave. (80-935-8711) kenshouseofpancakes.com

Awarded the best breakfast spot on the Big Island 13 years in a row, this pancake house’s menu available 24 hours a day.

THE LOCAVORE STORE $ 60 Kamehameha Ave. bigislandlocavorestore.com

This quaint grocer features lovingly-crafted food and goods from a myriad of local farmers, ranchers, producers, artisans, and more. Be sure to try Aloha Mexico’s empanadas.

MANTA & PAVILION WINE BAR

$$$ 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr. (808-882-5810) princeresortshawaii.com

With an extensive breakfast buffet and intimate dinner setting including menu items like Hawai‘i Island chevre ravioli and grilled local lamb, this hotel locale offers unparalleled views.

MERRIMAN’S $$$ 65-1227 Opelo Rd. (808-885-6822) merrimanshawaii.com

This is a fine-dining experience where you will find the freshest local ingredients paired with the finest wines. Try the Kahua Ranch lamb, Waipio taro and Lone Palm chickpea falafel or the Hawaiian Hogs Butcher’s cut.

MIYO’S

564 Hinano St. (808-935-2273)

Melt in your mouth sashimi and other traditional Japanese dishes make this rustic restaurant near Waiakea Pond one of the best places for Japanese food in Hilo.

MOON AND TURTLE

51 Kalakaua St. (808- 961-0599)

Be prepared for a wait if you don’t have a reservation at this increasingly popular farm-to-table eatery, whose menu, which features Asian inspired fish and seafood dishes, changes daily.

ON THE ROCKS

75-5824 Kahakai Rd. (808-329-1493) huggosontherocks.com

A casual, toes-in-the-sand restaurant and bar, this ocean-view hangout showcases some of the most talented musicians from around the island alongside eats like kalua pig nachos, Kona fish tacos, and the Mauna Kea burger.

RAYS ON THE BAY $$$

78-128 Ehukai St. (808-930-4949) raysonthebay.com

Swim in the flavors of local favorites while majestic manta rays swim a few feet away from the tables at this perfect family-friendly restaurant.

TAKENOKO SUSHI $$$

578 Hinano St. (808-933-3939)

With fresh fish sourced directly from Japan’s famed Tsukiji Market, Takenoko features buttery offerings of skillfully prepared sushi by chef Mitsuru Igarashi. BYOB.

TESHIMA’S $$

79-7251 Mamalahoa Hwy. (808–322-9140)

This double-stacked home turned restaurant provides the down-to-earth charm of this 70-year-old classic Japanese eatery (there’s a bonsai garden, too).

THREE FAT PIGS & THE THIRSTY WOLF

69-250 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808–339–7145)

$$

Pairing a restaurant and an upstairs gastropub, this innovative combo offers a lake view with original cocktails and an adventurous style that blends classical European culinary techniques with fresh Pacific Rim ingredients for beautifully created, expertly prepared, and artfully presented dishes.

VILLAGE BURGER

67-1185 Mamalahoa Hwy. (808-885-7319) villageburgerwaimea.com

$$

Supporting Big Island ranchers one burger at a time, this gourmet burger joint located in Parker Ranch Center uses only hormone-free beef that is ground fresh, hand-shaped daily, and grilled to perfection.

SHOP

ALAPAKI’S HAWAIIAN GIFTS

78-6831 Ali‘i Dr. (808-322-2007)

$$$

Carrying arts and crafts by more than 120 Hawaiian artists, from hula instruments to feather headbands to unique jewelry and other original art, Alapaki’s has unique finds to help you remember your trip to Hawai‘i.

HAWAII TITANIUM RINGS

75-5744 Ali‘i Dr. (808-756-1286) hawaiititaniumrings.com

$$

With this family-owned business, all rings are handmade on the Kona Coast from bars of the highest grade, American-made titanium. They specialize in engagement rings, wedding bands, and anniversary gifts. Custom designs are available.

KIMURA LAUHALA SHOP

$$ 77-996 Hualalai Rd. (808-324-0053)

Rumored to be one of the best places to buy locally handmade items, this lauhala specialty store (lauhala means pandanus leaf, which is dried and woven) sells anything from artist cards to custom-fit and handmade hats.

KONA WINE MARKET

73-5613 Olowalu St. (808-329-9400) konawinemarket.com

$$$

Choose from thousands of wines, liquors, beers, hundreds of gourmet food items, and the best selection of cigars on the Big Island at this friendly stop.

SEASIDE LUXE AT HUALALAI

$$$ 72-100 Kaupulehu Dr. (808-325-8549) seasideluxe.com

The convenience of finding a luxury jewelry store combined with oneof-a-kind furniture can only be accomplished at this boutique filled with enticing items.

SIG ZANE

122 Kamehameha Ave. (808-935-7077) sigzane.com

$$$

Founded and staffed by family who are cultural practitioners and designers of contemporary aloha attire, Sig Zane Designs provides a unique experience in addition to beautiful aloha wear.

STAY

ABSOLUTE PARADISE B&B

$$ 12-118 Kipuka St. (808-965-1828) absoluteparadise.tv

This gay owned and operated bed and breakfast has been welcoming guests to Hawai‘i Island for over 12 years and is just a short stroll away from a gayfriendly black-sand beach.

HALE OHIA

11-3968 Hale Ohia Rd. (808-967-7986) haleohia.com

$$

Hale Ohia is a historic estate located on several acres of exquisitely landscaped grounds, just one mile from Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. Built in 1931, Hale Ohia is comprised of a main residence, guest cottages, a gardener’s cottage, and numerous support structures.

HAPUNA BEACH PRINCE HOTEL

62-100 Kauna‘oa Dr. (808-944-4491) princeresortshawaii.com

$$

Perfectly nestled into the bluffs above Hapuna Beach, this resort presents a flowing, contemporary Hawaiian style where guests experience the true essence of rejuvenation.

KALAEKILOHANA

$$ 94-2152 South Point Rd. (808-939-8052) kau-hawaii.com

Gay owned and operated, this charming inn is centrally located between Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park and Pu‘uhonua ‘O Honaunau National Historic Park. The inn features oversized suites with private bathrooms, romantic walk-in rain showers, warm hardwoods, and a complimentary, locally sourced continental breakfast.

KALANI OCEANSIDE RETREAT

$$ 12-6860 Kalapana Kapoho Rd. (808-965-7828) kalani.com

For more than 30 years, this gay-owned retreat has been a soulful place of refuge and renewal for international guests. Kalani is an educational nonprofit organization that celebrates Hawai‘i, nature, culture, and wellness.

KA‘AWA LOA PLANTATION

82-5990 Napo‘opo‘o Rd. (808-323-2686) kaawaloaplantation.com

Located in the heart of the Kona coffee belt, this 5-acre estate and coffee farm is nestled in tropical surroundings directly above Kealakekua Bay.

MAUNA LANI BAY HOTEL AND BUNGALOWS

$$

SHERATON KONA RESORT & SPA AT KEAUHOU BAY $$$

78-128 Ehukai St. (808-930-4900) shreatonkona.com

Situated on the iconic lava rocks of the Kona coast overlooking historically significant Keauhou Bay, Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay offers a blend of adventure, culture, heritage, and hospitality.

VOLCANO ARTISTS COTTAGE

$$ 19-3834 Old Volcano Rd. (808-985-8979) volcanoartistcottage.com

This newly restored one-bedroom redwood cottage is set on a lush 3-acre artist’s estate in Volcano Village and comes with a fully equipped kitchenette, beautifully lit skylights, and private hot tub for cool Volcano nights.

PLAY

THE MASK-QUERADE BAR

75-5660 Kopiko St. (808-329-8558) themask-queradebar.com

$$$ 68-1400 Mauna Lani Dr. (808-885-6622) maunalani.com

Nestled on a white sandy beach on the Kohala Coast on Hawai‘i Island, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel and Bungalows offers visitors a rich cultural experience. During a stay here, take in cultural sites like fishponds and petroglyphs preserved in nearby areas, play a round of golf, enjoy world-class cuisine, or relax at a spa.

LAVA LAVA BEACH CLUB

69-1081 Ku‘uali‘i Pl. (808-769-5282) lavalavabeachclub.com

$$

Revel in laid-back luxury at Lava Lava Beach Club where you can nibble and nosh at the oceanfront restaurant, beach bar, or oceanfront lawn, and stay in their charming cottages. Perfect for weddings, anniversaries, and other events.

$

The “Mask” is a laid-back spot catering mostly to locals, but the outgoing staff here always greets visitors, gay and straight, with open arms. This bar in a small shopping plaza offers karaoke and occasional live drag shows and music.

MY BAR KONA

$$ 74-5606 Luhia St. (808-331-8789) mybarkona.com

While not as gay-frequented as Mask, this lively—if a bit dive-y—nightclub in a nondescript industrial neighborhood does have a fairly strong LGBT following (including many from the local drag community), and has hosted Hawai‘i pride festival events.

EXPLORE

BIG ISLAND BEES

82-5780 Napo‘opo‘o Rd. (808-328-7318 ) bigislandbees.com

Enter the world of bees and beekeeping and learn about how some of the tastiest, organic, single floral honey in the world is made, from viewing actual hives to how the hives are organized to what makes bees so special.

HAKALAU FOREST NATIONAL REFUGE

fws.gov/hakalauforest (808-443-2300)

Dust off your hiking boots, break out the rain gear, and contribute to the reforestation effort. Spend the weekend giving back with this unique cultural experience. Go bird watching and see beautiful indigenous birds.

HULUALOA FOUNDATION FOR ARTS

78-6670 Mamalahoa Hwy. (808-322-3362) donkeymillartcenter.org

With classes and workshops, community outreach, cultural events, and art exhibitions, Holualoa Foundation provides a stimulating environment that helps individuals expand their artistic abilities.

LAVA LAVA BEACH CLUB

Whether you are exploring the beauty of Kaua‘i or the beaches of the Big Island, Lava Lava Beach Club is the place for island inspired cuisine, creative cocktails, and toes in the sand ambiance. With its flagship location on Anaeho‘omalu Bay in the legendary Waikoloa Beach Resort, Lava Lava Beach Club is also bringing its signature dining experience to Kaua‘i’s Coconut Coast in Kapa‘a. Locals and visitors love the fun, laid-back vibe of Lava Lava Beach Club’s oceanfront dining, incredible views, and tempting libations. Named Top Beach Wedding Venue, World’s Best Beach Bar, and Top 10 Beach B&B’s, gay owned and operated Lava Lava Beach Club is the place to be for romantic dinners or fun gatherings with friends and family. Whether you’re looking to nibble and nosh, sip and savor, or party and celebrate, Lava Lava Beach Club celebrates the flavors of Hawai‘i and gives even the most adventurous palates a whirl.

Lava Lava Beach Club Waikoloa is located at 69-1081 Kuualii Pl. Lava Lava Beach Club Kaua‘i is located at 420 Papaloa Rd. For more information, call 808-769-LAVA (5282) or visit lavalavabeachclub.com.

‘IMILOA ASTRONOMY CENTER

600 ‘Imiloa Pl. (808-969-9703) imiloahawaii.org

This comprehensive educational facility showcases the connections between the rich traditions of Hawaiian culture and the groundbreaking astronomical research conducted at Mauna Kea featuring a planetarium complex and extensive exhibit hall.

KAHENA BEACH

On Hwy. 137 at mile marker 19

A lava rock trail leads to this small, secluded black sand beach popular with nude sunbathers. Be careful of the strong current and undertow.

KAPOHO TIDE POOLS

Parking available fronting the Waiopae Tide

Pools Marine Life Conservation

Boasting a colorful coral bed and plenty of fish, these tide pools amidst lava rock are interconnected, allowing you to snorkel from pool to pool. Nice even without snorkel gear, just beware that lava rock is sharp and there is no sand for sunbathing.

KEALAKEKUA BAY

In Napo‘opo‘o at end of Beach Rd. off Government Rd. from Pu‘uhonua Rd.

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this picturesque bay is where Captain Cook first stepped foot on Hawai‘i. It’s great for snorkeling and kayaking through one of the three companies approved by the state.

KONA COFFEE FARMERS

konacoffeefarmers.org

Visit one of the many Kona coffee farms on the island to learn about where the world famous coffee is grown and see the stages of production from picking to roasting to tasting.

ONIZUKA CENTER FOR INTERNATIONAL ASTRONOMY

Saddle Rd. and Mauna Kea Access Rd. (808-935-6268)

ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis/

You haven’t seen stars until you’ve seen them from the Onizuka Center, located at the 9,300foot level of Mauna Kea. Free nightly stargazing and stargazing tours.

PUNALU‘U BLACK SAND BEACH

Off Hwy. 11, past mile marker 55

The most famous black sand beach on the island, Punalu‘u is the most expansive and accessible black sand beach.

PU‘UHONUA O HONAUNAU NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK

South of Kealakekua Bay nps.gov/puho

This place of refuge for ancient Hawaiian lawbreakers is now a national historic park home to archeological sites like temples, royal fishponds, sledding tracks, and ancient coastal villages.

SOUTH POINT GREEN SAND BEACH

Hwy. 11 between mile markers 69 and 70

Though access is only gained on foot or by four-wheel-drive vehicle, this green sand beach is one of the most unusual and prettiest beaches on the island.

WAILEA BAY BEACH 67

This unofficial gay, often-nude beach, nicknamed “Beach 67” and “Beach 69,” offers an array of sights, including great snorkeling conditions.

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park is a fascinating world of active volcanism, biological diversity, and Hawaiian culture, past and present. Hawai‘i island is made up of five volcanoes, and Kilauea, located in the park, is the only one that has been actively erupting since 1983. Spanning over 333,000 acres, the park offers endless opportunities for adventure.

Visit nps.gov/havo/index.htm.

TASTE

BAR ACUDA

5-5161 Kuhio Hwy. (808-826-7081) restaurantbaracuda.com

$$$

With cuisine inspired by the Mediterranean regions of Europe, including Southern France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal, this tapas bar is one of Kaua‘i’s coolest places to relax with friends and sip some wine.

GAYLORD’S AT KILOHANA

3-2087 Kaumualii Hwy. (808-245-9593) gaylordskauai.com

$$$

Using foods found in its backyard garden and from farmers around the island, this farm-totable restaurant pays careful attention to the seasons, tweaking menus each week.

HANALEI GOURMET

$$ 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy. (808-826-2524)

A quick and easy spot for lunch, this casual eatery serves sandwiches made on fresh baked bread, alongside classic American, gourmet eats.

HAMURA’S SAIMIN

2956 Kress St. (808-245-3271)

$

Soft, slight chewy saimin noodles make this nofrills mom-and-pop joint a favorite among locals. Don’t leave without trying the barbecue teriyaki sticks and lilikoi pie.

HUKILAU LANAI

520 Aleka Lp. (808-822-0600) hukilaukauai.com

$$$

Enjoy handcrafted, scratch-made cuisine utilizing products from the bounty that Kaua‘i has to offer alongside nightly entertainment

JOSSELIN’S TAPAS BAR AND GRILL

$$$ Kukui‘ula Shopping Center, 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka St. (808-742-7117) josselins.com

This tapas bar features dishes inspired by all parts of the world, using as many locally grown ingredients as possible.

KAUAI GRILL $$$$

The St. Regis Princeville Resort, 5520 Ka Haku Rd. (808-826-9644)

kauaigrill.com

Sweeping views of Hanalei Bay and Bali Hai only heighten the dining experience at this St. Regis restaurant boasting a curated selection of artful appetizers and entrées from famed chef JeanGeorge Vongerichten.

KOLOA RUM CO.

$$ 3-2087 Kaumualii Hwy. (808-246-8900)

koloarum.com

At Hawai‘i’s first and only rum tasting room, located on the beautiful grounds of the historic Kilohana Plantation, learn about the history of Kaua‘i’s sugarcane from which Koloa’s rums are made, and enjoy complimentary samples the award-winning rum.

LAVA LAVA BEACH CLUB

$$ 420 Papaloa Rd. (808-769-5282) lavalavabeachclub.com

Opening in August 2015 at the newly renovated Kauai Shores Hotel in Kapa‘a, Lava Lava Beach Club will offer the island’s only Toes in the Sand dining experience.

LIVING FOODS MARKET & CAFE

Kukui‘ulaVillage, 2829 Ala Kalanikauamaka (808-742-2323) livingfoodskauai.com

$$

Shop at the island’s largest selection of organic, sustainable, and locally grown produce and don’t forget to grab lunch in the market’s cafe-style restaurant, which serves a simple European-style menu.

MERRIMAN’S FISH HOUSE

Kukui‘ula Shopping Center, 2829 Ala Kanaikaumaka St. (808-742-8385) merrimanshawaii.com

$$$

One of the pioneering restaurants of the farm-totable concept, Merriman’s serves only the freshest products, at least 90 percent of which are locally grown or caught using sustainable methods.

OASIS ON THE BEACH

4-820 Kuhio Hwy. (808-833-9332) oasiskauai.com

$$$

A breathtaking oceanfront location right on the beach, Oasis utilizes local sustainable sources for 90 percent of their ingredients.

POSTCARDS CAFÉ

5-5075 Kuhio Hwy. (808-826-1191) postcardscafe.com

RUMFIRE POIPU BEACH

$$$ 2440 Hoonani Rd. (808-742-1661) rumfirekauai.com

One of Kaua‘i’s favorite hot spots, this festive lounge offers a 180-degree view of the ocean and an innovative menu that artfully blends Hawaiian-rooted cuisine with global influences.

ST. REGIS BAR

$$$ 5520 Ka Haku Rd. (808-826-9644)

Take in one of the most spectacular sunset views in all of Hawai‘i at this upscale bar while enjoying live music and an innovative small-plate selection by the chefs of Kauai Grill.

TIDEPOOLS RESTAURANT

$$$ 1571 Poipu Rd. (808-240-6456) kauai.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining.html

Embrace the tempting combination of contemporary Hawaiian cuisine served in a unique Hawai‘i setting right on the water.

TORTILLA REPUBLIC

2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka St. (808-742-8884)

$$

At this modern Mexican grill and margarita bar, enjoy unexpected flavors utilizing all-natural meats and organic, locally grown produce in a contemporary, chic setting.

EXPLORE

ANINI BEACH

Following Rte. 56 from Kilauea town toward Hanalei

This tranquil 3-mile beach is protected by Hawai‘i’s largest coral reef. Windsurfers take advantage of the lake-like waters and families enjoy swimming and snorkeling.

DONKEY BEACH

Hwy. 56 between mile markers 11 and 12

$$$

Set in a charming setting, Postcards is known for freshly prepared seafood and gourmet vegetarian cuisine using no refined sugar or chemical additives.

RED SALT

$$$

Koa Kea Hotel & Resort, 2251 Poipu Rd. (808742-4288) koakea.com/dining-at-red-salt

At this restaurant, beautiful oceanfront dining and contemporary upscale cuisine celebrate the fresh seafood and produce available in Hawai‘i.

A short hike off a dirt road brings you to this secluded, white-sand, crescent-shaped beach, popular among surfers and gays, including the occasional nudist on the far end.

HANALEI BAY

Aku Rd. and Weke Rd.

A huge, crescent-shaped bay marks one of Hawai‘i’s most scenic beaches, where mountains reflect off the water’s mirror-like surface. The Hanalei Pier is located on the east side of the beach near where Hanalei River enters the ocean.

MANINIHOLO DRY CAVE

The Maniniholo Dry Cave is just one of Kaua‘i’s many sea caves on the north shore. A dark, damp tunnel running 300 yards deep, its intricate structure is hauntingly beautiful, echoing the Hawaiian superstition behind it. Legend states that the maniniholo, the chief fisherman of the menehune, or little people, dug into the cliff in search of the beast responsible for stealing their fish supply, leaving behind this cave.

Maniniholo Dry Cave is located across the street from Ha‘ena Beach Park and is easily accessible to the public.

KALAPAKI BEACH

Located at the entrance of Nawiliwili Harbor Kalapaki Beach is located in Kaua‘i’s main town of Lihu‘e. A stand on the beach offers surfing lessons, catamaran cruises, and sailboat rentals. The beach is also popular among volleyball players, with several courts located along the beach.

KAUA‘I MUSUEM

4428 Rice St. (808-245-6931) kauaimuseum.org

There are two floors of permanent exhibits pertaining to the history of Kaua‘i, from the birth of the island up through the territorial period. Guided public tours are free with paid admission, and the first Saturday of every month is “Family Free Saturday” free admission.

KAUAPEA (SECRET BEACH)

Turn toward the ocean on Kalihiwai Rd.; take second dirt road to the end Known for its size, seclusion, and beauty, this gay beach, which is only accessible after a 15-minute hike, stuns its visitors with its broad white sand beach, turquoise waters, arresting cliff views, and nude sunbathers.

KE‘E BEACH

Located literally at the end of the road (Highway 560), Ke‘e Beach’s calm serene lagoon is teaming with fish, making for one of the best snorkeling spots on the island. A short walk towards Haena provides stunning views of the Na Pali Coast.

KILOHANA PLANTATION

3-2087 Kaumuali‘i Hwy. (808-245-5608) kilohanakauai.com

Ride a historic train, hike through a rainforest, taste island-made rum, and enjoy one of the island’s best luaus at Kilohana Plantation, located within the historic Gaylord Wilcox Mansion.

LIMAHULI GARDEN

5 Kuhio Hwy. (808-826-1053) ntbg.org/gardens/limahuli.php

Extending across 1,000 acres of verdant tropical valley that span three distinct ecological zones, Limahuli Garden and Preserve (also known as Bali Hai) was named best natural botanical garden in the United States by the American Horticultural Society.

LYDGATE STATE PARK BEACH

Off Hwy. 56, five miles north of Lihu‘e

With its calm waters and with lifeguards present, this state park remains popular with families, as well as with gays, located on the south side between Wailua Golf Course and the condos.

POIPU BEACH PARK

2250 Kuai Rd.

On Kaua‘i’s sunny south shore is one of the island’s most popular beaches. Named best beach by the Travel Channel and Dr. Beach, Poipu accommodates nearly every type of beach activity.

STAY

KAUA‘I MARRIOTT RESORT

Kalapaki Beach, 3610 Rice St. (808-245-5050) marriott.com/hotels/travel/lihhi-kauai-marriott-resort

$$$

Situated on Kalapaki Bay and offering a wide variety of recreational activities, a superior beach experience, and 18 holes of Jack Nicklausdesigned golfing, this resort was also one of the first hotel companies to offer equal employee benefits to same-sex couples nationwide and was rated one the best places to work for LGBT equality.

MAHINA KAI B&B

4933 Aliomanu Rd. (808-822-9451)

$$

Mahina Kai opened in 1985 as an exclusively gay bed and breakfast, but has since modified its policy to welcome everyone with aloha. Mahina Kai is still gay-owned and offers amenities such as free WiFi, an island breakfast, and laundry service.

ST. REGIS PRINCEVILLE

5520 Ka Haku Rd. (808-826-9644)

stregisprinceville.com

$$$$

Marking the the legendary brand’s first resort in Hawai‘i, St. Regis Princeville introduces an unparalleled level of sophistication and serene luxury to one of the most remarkable destinations in the world. Located on 9,000 acres in Hanalei, this luxury resort is a bastion of tropical sophistication and features cuisine that celebrates local flavors and an array of diverse activities.

COMMUNITY RESOURCES

ALOHA BEARS

Whether you consider yourself a bear or an admirer, building strong bonds with the community, land, and sea are just some of the things offered by Aloha Bears. For more information, visit thealohabears.com.

BLAZING SADDLES HAWAII

This free LGBT country-western dance club meets every Tuesday at the Ala Wai Golf Course Clubhouse for line-dancing, two-step, and waltzing fun. For more information, visit blazingsaddleshi.org.

EXPRESSION!

Published monthly since 1998, this print and digital magazine inspires authenticity in the lives of Hawai‘i’s gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender community. For more information, call 808-7228027 or visit expression808.com.

EQUALITY HAWAII

Equality Hawaii nurtures a discussion of relevant topics that are alive in the LGBT community in Hawai‘i today and aims to secure equal rights through work with the community as well as legislators. For more information, call 808-221-0799 or visit equalityhawaii.org.

GAY MEN’S CHORUS OF HONOLULU

Since 2012, Honolulu’s first openly gay musical organization has been providing Honolulu with men’s choral concerts in a wide variety of styles. For more information, visit gmcofh.org.

GREGORY HOUSE PROGRAMS

This foundation offers support for those who live with HIV/AIDS by providing a safe and healthy living environment as a form of health care. Gregory House is located at 200 N. Vineyard Blvd., Ste. A310. For more information, call 808592-9022 or visit gregoryhouse.org.

HAWAII LGBT LEGACY FOUNDATION

With a main goal of bringing the community together, this foundation empowers and unifies Hawai‘i’s LGBT organizations through grant support, at-risk youth housing, and assisted living for elders. For more information, visit hawaiilgbtlegacyfoundation.com.

HONOLULU FRONTRUNNERS

This club offers weekly runs on Saturdays as well as other activities for anyone that has an interest in running or walking. For more information, visit honolulufrontrunners.org.

HONOLULU GAY AND LESBIAN CULTURAL FOUNDATION

hglcf.org

Since 1997, this foundation has instilled a sense of pride and community by giving back to the community with events such as the Honolulu Rainbow Film Festival, one of the longestrunning and well-respected LGBT film festivals in the country. For more information, call 808-675-8428.

HONOLULU MEN’S DINING CLUB

If fine dining and lively conversations with other likeminded men are your thing, then this club is for you. For more information, call 808-955-3134 or email info@hmdclub.com.

HONOLULU PRIDE

This organization is dedicated to bringing together Honolulu’s LGBT community to honor and celebrate pride with events like the Honolulu Pride Parade. For more information, call 808672-9050 or visit honolulupride.org.

HULUMANU FOUNDATION

This foundation aims to use appropriate language associated with the LGBT and Asian Pacific Islander populations in schools and in public by improving social, health, and legal issues that impact equality in Hawai‘i. For more information, call 808-723-9154 or visit hulumanufoundation.org.

LESBIAN & GAY BUSINESSES OF HAWAII

LGB Hawaii strives to build stronger connections between gay-friendly businesses in Hawai‘i, as well as increase visibility and promote growth for businesses that offer support to the LGBT community. For more information, call 808-216-6965.

LGBT CENTER WAIKIKI

This center in Waikiki offers services such as assisted living for elders, small grants, and an integrated home for at-risk youth. LGBT Center Waikiki is located at 310 Paoakalani Ave. For more information, visit them on Facebook.

LIFE FOUNDATION

This organization is dedicated to stopping the spread of HIV/AIDS by offering free testing as well as assisting people living with HIV/AIDS. Life Foundation is located at 677 Ala Moana Blvd. For more information, call 808-521-2437 or visit lifefoundation.org.

LIKE HIKE

Explore the outdoors with likeminded individuals by joining one of this club’s Sunday hikes. For more information, call 808-455-8193.

MAUI PRIDE

Centered on a yearly festival and scholarship program, Maui Pride also gathers the LGBT community for monthly events such as hikes, beach parties, and dining out. For more information, visit mauipride.com.

ODYSSEY HAWAII

Odyssey Hawaii is an online magazine serving Hawai‘i’s diverse gay lifestyle for the past 19 years. For more information, visit odysseyhawaii.com.

PRIDE GUIDE

A guide to accommodations, restaurants, shopping, cultural events, and entertainment for the LGBT traveler. For more information, visit gogayhawaii.com.

RAINBOW FAMILY 808

This nonprofit resource organization is dedicated to promoting understanding and equality within Hawai‘i’s schools, churches, and families. For more information, visit rainbowfamily808.com.

A HUI HOU, UNTIL WE MEET AGAIN

Bellows Field Beach Park on O‘ahu’s east side

IMAGE BY John Hook