Lei - 4

FOR THE LGBT TRAVELER

HAWAI‘I PALM SPRINGS SYDNEY

Lei are the traditional Hawaiian symbol of love, friendship, appreciation, and aloha.

For generations, the people of Hawai‘i have used lei to express these emotions, strengthen relationships, and give thanks. Our roots are in Hawai‘i and our goal with Lei is to welcome, entertain, and give thanks to travelers as we explore our home islands and other temperate, LGBT-friendly destinations.

UNDERSTATED AND SEAMLESS. THE ART OF HOSPITALITY.

PUBLISHER

Joe V. Bock

JOE @ NELLAMEDIAGROUP.COM

EDITOR

Lisa Yamada-Son

LISA @ NELLAMEDIAGROUP.COM

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Ara Feducia

DESIGNER

Michelle Ganeku

MANAGING EDITOR

Matthew Dekneef

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Anna Harmon

PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR

John Hook

PHOTO EDITOR

Samantha Hook

COPY EDITOR

Andy Beth Miller

MASTHEAD

CONTRIBUTORS

Martha Cheng

Kelli Miller

Rae Sojot

Blaine Tolentino

IMAGES

Lila Lee

Kainoa Reponte

IJfke Ridgley

Megan Spelman

SPECIAL THANKS TO:

Matthew Guevara

Reise Kochi

Jordan Lee

Bradley Rhea

Val Wang

Lisa Yamamoto

PRESIDENT & CEO

Jason Cutinella

GROUP PUBLISHER

Mike Wiley

MIKE @ NELLAMEDIAGROUP.COM

MARKETING & ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE

Chelsea Tsuchida

MARKETING & ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE

Ethan West

OPERATIONS ADMINISTRATOR

Courtney Miyashiro

VP BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Gary Payne

DESIGNER

Mitchell Fong

DIGITAL CONTENT

COORDINATOR

Aja Toscano

INTERNS

Eunica Escalante

Gabe Estevez

Andrea Lee

DESTINATION

MARKETING HAWAII

Debbie Anderson

PUBLISHED BY

NELLA MEDIA GROUP

36 N. HOTEL ST., SUITE A HONOLULU, HI 96817 NELLAMEDIAGROUP.COM

© 2017–2018 by Nella Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted without the written consent of the publisher. Opinions are solely those of the contributors and are not necessarily endorsed by Nella Media Group.

ONLINE

Want to stay in the know with what’s happening around Hawai‘i? Find more stories online at leiculture.com.

STORIES

Erin McNulty and Katie Armbrecht met as teammates on the University of Hawai‘i at Manoa swim team and are now engaged. Mike Longo and Rob Nunally started a charmed life as Big Island tea farmers in Hilo. Read about their relationships, made possible in the islands, on our site.

ITINERARIES

At Waimea Canyon, hiking trails that scale through forests rich with Kaua‘i’s flora and fauna, and amble across ridges with views of the famed Nā Pali Coast’s fluted peaks, reveal a land before time. Follow our itinerary covering this wondrous and wild landscape online.

EXPERIENCE

While you are in Hawai‘i, do you want to party? Stay fit, yoga-style? Dine out? Immerse yourself in the culture? All of the above? Then check out our monthly event guide on leiculture.com.

KEEP UP WITH US ONLINE:

WEBSITE: LEICULTURE.COM

FACEBOOK: / LEICULTURE

TWITTER: @ LEICULTURE

INSTAGRAM: @ LEICULTURE

ON THE ISLAND OF HAWAI‘I,

experience a welcoming Hilton resort spread along the legendary Kohala Coast. From weddings to getaways, Hilton Waikoloa Village will provide you with the destination of your dreams.

MAKAI at Lagoon Tower premium accommodations include complimentary access to Kohala Spa and reserved seating at Kona Pool.

Hale Aloha Wedding Chapel or Palace Garden offer perfect settings for a special moment.

Island of Hawaii adventures include visits to rain forests, active volcanoes and snow-capped mountains.

Explore Stay Hilton. Go Out. room packages and discover our wedding services at: HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com/Lei

Call 1-808-886-1234 or 1-800-HILTONS

HiltonWaikoloaVillage

@HiltonWaikoloaVillage

@HiltonWaikoloa

Aloha and welcome to Lei. If you’re a regular reader, mahalo for following us on our journey exploring Hawai‘i these past three years. The Aloha State is our home, and we think the world of it. If you haven’t had the opportunity to visit, please consider coming out for a while.

For our fourth issue, we decided to break with tradition somewhat and venture beyond our azure shores. The LGBT community is more noticeably diverse than ever. So diverse, in fact, that some are starting to use the entire alphabet to give recognition to as many subsets of our culture as possible. In this issue, we explore a small selection of the people that make a place unique and special.

While our cultural diversity appears to broaden and make us, as a community, more unique, the increasing normalization of gay culture into the mainstream seems to have improved coexistence for most.

This cultural shift has changed how we express ourselves and live our lives, including, of course, how we travel. An increasing number of LGBT travelers are more comfortable expressing who they are, showing affection openly, or just relaxing in more destinations than before. We think this is something to celebrate.

In the following pages, we invite you to explore with us the incredible people and places of Hawai‘i, as well as two other balmy, popular LGBT destinations: Palm Springs, California and Sydney, Australia. We hope you enjoy this expansion of our coverage. But, more than anything, we hope you can get out there and see the world.

As always, we would love to hear from you. Get new content each month online at leiculture.com and drop us a note while you’re at it. We hope to see you soon.

Safe travels,

Joe Bock Publisher @joebock

@leiculture leiculture.com

LETTERS OF ALOHA

Message from Governor David Ige

On behalf of the people of Hawai‘i, aloha and welcome to the readers of Lei magazine.

We encourage you to come discover a collection of beautiful islands that is remarkable in every respect and meet our people, who embrace the “aloha spirit,” a mindset and way of life unmatched anywhere.

Aloha in its purest form means kindness, unity, patience, and respect. As you enjoy the warmth of our hospitality, you will discover what I believe is the root of Hawai‘i’s appeal, the diversity of our people, the loveliness of this place, and the core values of our host culture in welcoming all visitors with acceptance and friendship.

Throughout our six islands—Kaua‘i, O‘ahu, Maui, Moloka‘i, Lana‘i, and Island of Hawai‘i, there are picturesque settings and cultural activities to be explored and captured as fond memories.

From magnificent beaches and lush rainforests to fiery lava flows, Hawai‘i’s natural beauty is unsurpassed by any other global destination. Add to this our clear blue skies, clean water, and balmy year-round climate, and couples, families, and friends traveling together soon realize why Hawai‘i is an ideal paradise to revitalize one’s soul. We look forward to welcoming you with aloha in the Hawaiian Islands.

With warmest regards, David Y. Ige Governor, State of Hawai‘i

Message from the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority

Aloha to the readers of Lei!

Authenticity is the core of what makes coming to the Hawaiian Islands such a remarkable experience. Authenticity is what makes our host Hawaiian culture so beloved worldwide. Authenticity in how we celebrate the multi-cultural make-up of our communities is what makes Hawai‘i so admired for its diversity.

Authenticity in the natural beauty of Hawai‘i, coupled with our commitment to sustainability and protecting the environment, is what makes our island home so desirable to global travelers. The authenticity of the aloha spirit, and how it guides our way of life, is what makes Hawai‘i so distinctive for its humanity.

Whether traveling to Hawai‘i with a loved one, family members, or a group of friends, everyone is welcomed with aloha and treated as guests in our home.

This issue of Lei, with its beautiful images and enticing words about Hawai‘i, is a wonderful incentive of all there is to experience in these islands of paradise.

We invite you to explore the wonders of Hawai‘i, to discover firsthand its authenticity, both as a destination and a place to rejuvenate about the joys of life. We await you with aloha and open arms.

With warmest aloha, George D. Szigeti President and CEO, Hawai‘i Tourism Authority

find the center of paradise

Apple Store

Cartier

Fendi

Forever 21

Harry Winston Hermès

Jimmy Choo

kate spade new york

Loro Piana

Omega Boutique

Rolex Boutique

Salvatore Ferragamo

Tory Burch Tourneau Valentino

partial listing

ONE UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE

Step into The Royal Grove and discover the rich legacy of Helumoa, Waikīkī’s historic coconut grove in the heart of Royal Hawaiian Center. We invite you to enjoy our celebration of dance, music and Hawaiian traditions while you shop our 110 distinctive stores and 30 unique dining destinations.

IMAGE BY John Hook

THE OCEANIC URBANITE

TEXT BY Blaine Tolentino IMAGES BY John Hook

Artist and architect Sean Connelly dreams of building a familiar future for Hawai‘i.

Sean Connelly thinks about what Hawai‘i will be like 1,000 years from now. He is sanding a foam model of an ahupua‘a, a traditional Hawaiian land division that often extends from mountain to sea. Specifically, the surface expresses the topography of Waikiki, the likeness of which Connelly fabricated from a satellite data image. Onto this structure, he will project maps he assembled from data gathered on streams, stormwater channels, and buildings. When he shares this model with legislators, students, and viewers of his art installations, they will gasp. “See,” he will say, “what it means for an island to be a city, what it could look like to have the ahupua‘a back?”

Connelly’s envisioned futures are filled with innovative designs that work with what existed in the natural world before people arrived. For Contact 2017, an art exhibition at the Honolulu Museum of Art School, Connelly created Three Houses, which featured three stark tabletop structures. One had a fishpond beneath it, to provide its residents with a sustainable food source; another featured a building exterior that would replicate and blend in with its environment; the third had a

structure that filtered freshwater into an artificial onsite aquifer. The depth and layers of such artistic creations, which are rendered with architectural detail, reveal the conscientiousness of Connelly—a nebulous visionary who dreams of a Hawai‘i that once again celebrates water in its many forms, and honors the capacity and sustainability of the land.

Having grown up in Hawai‘i, at the base of the Ko‘olau mountains on O‘ahu’s east side, Connelly sees the ocean as a critical resource for the islands. He recalls a time, as a teenager, when the water was contaminated at one of his favorite surfing spots in Waikiki—the results of a massive sewage spill, which had created hazardous swimming conditions for ocean goers. Even after the water was deemed safe, those who spent time in the water knew it wasn’t the same; the water tasted metallic. But it wasn’t until Connelly took a college class trip to Kaho‘olawe—a Hawaiian island that has spiritual significance, but for decades served as a training ground and bombing range for the U.S. military—that he began to see the city as a land division similar to an ahupua‘a, or an island. He realized that all are used to distinguish

populations, to manage resources and access. And he saw how the original inhabitants of the islands had to consider their divisions’ limited resources to survive, just as planners try, and sometimes fail, to do when developing densely occupied urban areas.

Connelly went on to get a doctorate in architecture from the University of Hawai‘i, then earned his master’s degree in urban development at Harvard University. What came of his studies and contemplations is more than art, and more than architecture. His design theories are rigorous. The resources from which his projects spring are governmental or proprietary data, which he collects scientifically. He proposes the ocean as being the center of all things in a video diagram of O‘ahu turned inward, with shorelines facing each other, asking the viewer to see that, for many years, the ocean

was at the core of survival for not only the indigenous population, but also for migrant generations that would follow European contact. He has mapped bird migration paths across all oceans, as phantasms of oceanic voyaging. These are chapters of an upcoming atlas he is creating, and a way for Connelly to bring his theories into the visual world. In the next year, he is assembling an anthology about urbanism and Oceania called Hydraulic Islands .

Connelly began building these visions in Honolulu in 2013. First was A Small Area of Land (Kaka‘ako Earth Room) , for which a community of volunteers helped Connelly shape 32,000 pounds of soil and sand into an angled dirt sculpture standing 7 feet tall and 9 feet wide. A year later, he debuted Land Division at the Honolulu Museum of Art, a towering sculpture of

spindly trunks of invasive strawberry guava trees that was built as if it had been cleaved in half. His third sculpture, Thatch Assembly with Rocks (2060s) , rested in an open field at Foster Botanical Garden for two months in early 2017, as part of the Honolulu Biennial. The assembly was a black structure dressed in loulu palm fronds, the Hawaiian Islands’ only native palm species, but was built as the reverse of a traditional Hawaiian hale—the foliage was layered to create walls, instead of a thatched roof—to celebrate the utility and techniques of island-based architecture.

Most recently, for Three Houses , Connelly looked to the ahupua‘a as a way to address the mounting problems of modern island life, such as the lack of affordable housing and the high cost of living. His imagined solutions imply that sometimes, for cities to flourish, the people living within them may need to start over, redefining their values, aesthetics, and remembering the depth of the land they live upon. From dystopia, a utopia could be built. For Connelly, the best future will come from preserving the irreplaceable resources that make Hawai‘i a vision to behold.

Explore Connelly’s data, projections, designs, and collaborations at hawaii-futures.com and ao-projects.com.

Sean’s favorite spaces:

KANE‘OHE

BRANCH LIBRARY

45-829 Kamehameha Hwy.

“Overlooked despite the great used bookstore underneath, this place is also by a stream, outside of Honolulu, with huge lava rocks in place around the water. An example of what I would call ‘Windward Modern,’ the library is a thoughtful synthesis of CMU bricks, slender concrete buttresses, and dark volcanic rock established upon a bump in red clay. These kinds of places need historic protection and ecological restoration. If I could, I would repaint its smooth walls cloud white, and let them turn pink and grey over time again.”

MAGIC ISLAND

1201 Ala Moana Blvd.

“This man-made landmass was filled above a reef. The island was meant to support the construction of a resort, while also mitigating the pollution and erosion caused by the poorly designed Ala Wai Canal. Since family and community constitute most individuals’ connection to this space, even supporting its existence, I’ve reimagined this area of filled land as an artifact of Honolulu land art.”

FOSTER BOTANICAL GARDEN

180 N. Vineyard Blvd.

“The soil here near a stream is vertisol, which is high in clay. This means the land splits and cracks during dry months, and coalesces again when wet. Also, loulu leaves were used on the exterior of ancient Hawaiian structures, and this place has a forest of these trees, several stories tall and decades old.”

A FLAVORFUL LIFE

TEXT BY Kelli Miller IMAGES BY IJfke Ridgley

Valerie Wang finds intrigue, comfort, and family ties at restaurants in Honolulu.

On a warm spring evening in Honolulu, Valerie Wang tells me she’s going to cook one of her favorite dishes: Chinese potstickers. It’s a tribute to the meals she remembers her father making when she was a child. “It’s a dish that we have at every single family gathering with my father’s side,” she tells me as she fills the delicate wrappers with raw ground pork, won bok, and green onion. “Throughout my dad’s life, they have been his most-known, loved, and requested dish.” It’s no surprise Wang feels most in her element when Food Network is on, and she’s in the kitchen: Her parents owned a legendary northern Chinese-Szechuan restaurant in Honolulu for many years. With patrons like Jack Nicholson, Elton John, Florence Henderson, and band members from Journey coming through to enjoy her father’s cooking, the restaurant became synonymous with their family identity and name. For Wang, it was never about the business side of operating a restaurant, but rather, the love—for food, family, and travel—that kept her family together.

As the potstickers brown in a pan of hot oil, Wang queues up a playlist: Esthero, DJ Krush, Massive Attack. The 37-year-old exudes kindness, humility, and self-discipline, yet is always cracking jokes. She doesn’t take herself too seriously. “One time in San Francisco, I ordered Jack in the Box delivery at 4 a.m., but I was staying with my sister in a loft and she was sleeping, so I ate it alone on her bathroom floor with her cat,” she says. “Best 4 a.m. meal and dinner company I can remember in a long time!”

Wang never judges a food experience by its cover, from takeout hamburgers to worldclass otoro , the most prized part of tuna. She has taste-tested dishes from around the world, discerning the ingredients and techniques used to make them, and then recreating them to her liking. Her breakfast of champions is toasted garlic naan topped with garlic hummus, sliced avocado, Porcini sea salt, truffle oil, and Urfa chili flakes.

When this refreshingly casual self-taught cook is not experimenting in the kitchen, you’ll find her training at a UFC gym, dining out with friends, or working at Greenroom Gallery Hawaii, where she handles operations and coordinates Greenroom Festival, the largest surf culture festival in Asia, held annually in Yokohama. Along with work trips to Japan, Wang loves to travel the world as a gastrotourist. Hong Kong and Singapore are at the top of her list of most memorable foodie cities. With family ties to Korea and Hong Kong, Wang also experiences the culinary scenes there as a local. “My mom’s family is from Hong Kong originally, and I have relatives there, including my last living grandparent,” she says. “My family and I make it a point to visit at least once a year to spend time with her.” These trips are anticipated with searches for the most mouthwatering restaurants to visit. “We constantly send each other Openrice (the Hong Kong version of Yelp) links throughout the year to all the different places we’ll try next for our upcoming food pilgrimage to Hong Kong,” she says.

As Wang is speaking about her mother, I notice her voice is tinged with sadness. “When I was 24, my mother had a brain aneurysm,” she tells me. “They broke the clot with a coil, but the side-effects of the surgery caused her to lose her speech and paralyzed the entire left side of her body.” After enduring countless hours of speech and physical therapy, Wang’s mother stands tall today, able to speak in all three languages that she had lost and walk without any aid. “It's a medical miracle,” Wang says.

With what seems like the worst behind her, Wang takes the last potsticker out of the pan. “When life gives me moments of hardship, and I need a swift kick in the butt, reminding me what it means to be a fighter, I think of my mother,” she says. “When I get too wrapped up in that negative train of thought, worry about all the things that one doesn’t have, and lose sight of all the things one should be grateful for, I think of my mother.”

Wang’s favorite restaurants on O‘ahu:

KYUNG’S SEAFOOD

1269 S. King St.

Favorite dish: spicy tuna

“I love a good hole in the wall! This one has fresh sashimi to enjoy with a few pitchers of sochu or beer and an outof-this-world recipe for spicy tuna. I still can’t figure out the secret ingredient they use. I’ve never found more satisfaction in being baffled and stumped over and over and over again.”

AGU RAMEN

Various locations

Favorite dish: a tie between the spicy kotteri ramen, spice level 3, and the yuzu jidori

“I enjoy bold flavors and dishes that pack a punch. I expect no less from my ramen broth. Agu delivers punchy flavors and the perfect level of spice for the fire-chaser in me. The spicy kotteri and yuzu jidori both equally hit you like a slap in the face, but in all the right ways. I prefer a thinner noodle with a firmer texture, which Agu serves seamlessly. It’s also the only place on the island that comes close to Ichiran, one of my favorite ramen chains in Japan.”

SUSHI IZAKAYA GAKU

1329 S. King St.

Favorite dish: marinated ikura gunkan

“This place has the freshest ingredients, creative specials, and perpetual consistency in almost every dish it does, which makes up for a slightly small space with intimate lighting. I’ve enjoyed every year of its 10 years in operation, and am looking forward to many years to come.”

SIAM GARDEN CAF É

1130 N. Nimitz Hwy.

Favorite dish: a tie between the Thai fried chicken, and the elbows and tom kha

“I judge how well I’ll like a Thai place based off one dish: Thai fried chicken. If they can make it taste as authentic as how I remember tasting it from the long-gone Thai House on King Street and Palm Drive, then you have my attention and seal of approval. Siam Garden Café does exactly that. Having the most authentic-tasting Thai dishes puts Siam Garden Café head-to-head with Siam Square in Waikiki, but they win out in my book, because they also offer dishes and selections not seen on most Thai menus. If service and decor matter to you more than the food, Siam Garden Café also has that covered.”

THE NEXT REACH

TEXT BY Martha Cheng IMAGES BY John Hook

LGBT rock-climbing club Out on the Rocks introduces friendly strangers to a challenging sport.

Getting to the Volcanic Rock Gym at night involves driving down Kapa‘a Quarry Road, an unlit thoroughfare on O‘ahu’s east side, and then navigating through rows of dark warehouses and auto body shops with all the warmth of The Walking Dead set. The location of the gym reveals itself through sight and sound: fluorescent light and dubstep (fittingly, on a recent visit, “The Cracks Begin to Show”) spilling out from an open rollup door. Inside, it’s as lively as its surroundings are quiet, the space crowded with lean, muscular bodies, who watch as other lean, muscular bodies scale the turquoise and bright green walls, their arms and backs stretching in displays of strength and flexibility, their feet finding improbable holds.

For a newbie climber, the scene can be intimidating, like wandering into a karaoke bar and discovering that everyone is a singing champion (with great abs, to boot). Which is why the LGBT climbing organization Out on the Rocks offers a foothold. “It’s geared at the gay community, but it’s open to all climbers, or non-climbers, to come in and try the sport,” says Melissa Viray, a regular at Out on the Rocks’ climbing sessions. “It’s an entrée into the community.”

Ryan Johns founded Out on the Rocks after working in London, where he was inspired by Outdoor Lads, a gay outdoor activity club. “It’s not that climbing is a homophobic sport,” he says. “We’re just trying to breed a safe place, to show the climbing community that we do exist. And that we can crush it just as hard as they can.”

He points to other LGBT climbing groups in the United States: Crux in New York City and Homoclimbtastic, which hosts the world’s largest queer climbing convention in West Virginia, attracting almost 100 climbers annually. For Out on the Rocks, 20 climbers is a large turnout—other nights will see a handful of people. “The gay community is small, and climbing in Hawai‘i, we’re an even smaller community,” Johns says. Military and people new to the islands tend to find Out on the Rocks, he explains, and most have never climbed before. “We’re a bridge between the two different worlds. We offer something different for the gay community that isn’t the bar.”

Matthew Hawk moved to Honolulu from San Francisco in 2016. At first, he didn’t have much of a social life. But, encouraged by Johns, he started climbing regularly. “I love it because it’s a sport that’s very encouraging—it’s similar to bowling, there’s lots of high fives,” he says. “Everyone’s supportive.”

For all its display of brawn, the sport in Hawai‘i is welcoming: Strangers cheer each other on, whether they’re starting on the easiest route or American Ninja Warrior -ing across the wall. And every climber will tell you that the sport requires more than muscle. “Some people equate climbing with brute strength, but it’s not about that,” Viray says. “There’s a lot more to it.” She says she draws on her abilities as a woman, using finesse for certain climbs that require an almost ballet-like grace.

RYAN JOHNS, FOUNDER OF OUT ON THE ROCKS

“Sure, part of the draw of climbing is the eye candy,” says Johns, as we both gaze at the shirtless climber ascending above us. He notes that body type doesn’t necessarily determine climbing success—the sport is equal parts strength, balance, flexibility, and body awareness, keeping tracking of every part, from your butt to your big toes.

“Climbing is a really great challenge,” Viray says. “It’s a total-body workout, but it’s also about solving puzzles.” At times, completing a route can feel like a chess game, figuring out where to position your body best for the next reach. Climbers at the gym spend as much time staring at the wall as they do actually being on it, plotting where they will put their feet, their fingers. Even sitting, they are visualizing their moves, their hips and shoulders twisting, their hands reaching, as if climbing the air.

Volcanic Rock Gym is located at 201 Kapaa Quarry Pl. For more information, visit outontherocks.com.

SUNDAY in the COUNTRY

Oceanfront on the North Shore

Polo matches, beach bar, ono eats, tailgating and entertainment EVERY SUNDAY THRU SEPTEMBER 3RD

IN PURSUIT OF ALOHA

TEXT BY Eunica Escalante IMAGES BY Lila Lee

Vintage shop owner and stylist Bradley Rhea shares the best spots in Honolulu to thrift aloha shirts, the famous style of the islands.

“I’ve been thrifting pretty much my whole life. It’s, like, in my blood,” says Bradley Rhea, standing next to a rack packed with dresses made half a century ago. It’s Sunday at Barrio Vintage, the boutique that Rhea co-owns with his partner, Jonathan Saupe, and Rhea is manning the checkout counter, which is actually a glass case filled with funky costume jewelry from the 1980s. His shop, a Chinatown mainstay since he and Saupe opened its doors five years ago, houses an eclectic collection of vintage styles, ranging from structured dresses from the ’40s to bold geometric prints from the ’90s. Personally, Rhea favors the psychedelic fashion of the ’60s, something that was very present in his hometown of Tucson, Arizona. There, Rhea cultivated an instinct for thrifting, bolstered by a childhood spent scouring secondhand shops with his mother.

Upon moving to Hawai‘i in 2010 with Saupe, Rhea fell in love with the aloha shirt culture. “It’s interesting to go to a place where this one item is the garment of this area,” Rhea says. “And they’re just so diverse and expressive. You don’t really get that anywhere else.”

The style, which arose in the 1930s, was popularized by tourists flocking to the islands. Since then, it has cycled through decades of reinvention and reiterations. For thrifters like Rhea, discovering a unique aloha shirt has become a favorite pastime.

Here, Rhea divulges his favorite vintage and thrift spots—which have, until now, been highly guarded secrets—to aid you in your hunt for that perfect aloha shirt.

TIN CAN MAILMAN

1026 Nuuanu Ave. #1A

“That place is magical. There’s so much cool stuff—books and maps and postcards—and then you go to the back, and there’s this beautiful rack of aloha shirts and mu‘umu‘u. They know which designers were popular back in the day, so they have a great collection of Hawaiiana to sift through. They know so much about vintage Hawai‘i—they can tell you a million things about it.”

SURF N HULA

3588 Waialae Ave.

“This shop has super cute vintage clothing and Hawaiiana, and is owned by a super cute auntie and uncle. They have a few racks of well-selected aloha shirts that range anywhere from contemporary designer to rare vintage finds. They really do have a new selection of alohawear every time I visit, and I honestly never leave empty-handed.”

SURF N HULA

BAILEY’S ANTIQUES AND ALOHA SHIRTS

517 Kapahulu Ave.

“They’re saturated with a diversity of aloha shirts, and just alohawear in general. It’s so archival that it’s like shopping in a museum. Their walls are covered in all Hawaiian wear, and you’ll find things you never even knew existed. It is a little more expensive, but if you want to put money down on one epic piece, you can go there and you will find it.”

SAVERS KALIHI

1505 Dillingham Blvd.

“They have a gigantic selection of aloha shirts. Their style is more contemporary, if you don’t want something specifically vintage. And I’ve been going to Savers for forever. It was my go-to spot as a 10-year-old.”

BARRIO VINTAGE

1161 Nuuanu Ave.

“We buy, sell, and trade, so every single day there’s something new. We launched our aloha shirt shack a year ago, and the alohawear we get are all really fluid. Sometimes we even find some when we go up to the West Coast. The shirts you find there are usually from people who came to Hawai‘i and bought them as souvenirs, so I just scoop them all up and bring them back to their home.”

BAILEY ' S ANTIQUES

Wet’n’Wild Hawaii is one of the top 10 most visited attraction on Oahu and voted Top 10 Best Amusements / Water Parks by Travel Channel.

Located in Kapolei, the park features more than 26 exhilarating rides and attractions. Nestled on 29-acres in lush tropical landscaping and natural cliffs, you will find different experiences in each corner ideal for all levels of excitement. Adrenaline addicts can enjoy slides like Shaka – plunging guests down a 36 foot drop almost vertically; Waimea Whirl - our latest addition to our family of water raft rides where guests drop into the bowl at high speed and stay glued to its wall as they circle the perimeter multiple times or Tornado, which catapults guests through a swirling 45-foot funnel. The park also features tamer attractions like Water World Playground, an interactive children’s area and Hawaiian Waters, a 400,000-gallon wave pool where you can body board on machine generated waves similar to the waves on Waikiki Beach . Purchase your admission ticket online at wetnwildhawaii.com and instantly get $5 OFF each ticket with promo code LEI. LET’S PLAY

Photo by Kelli Bullock

Photo by Kelli Bullock www.kelliwithaneyephotography.com

WORK IT OUT

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Samantha Feyen

STYLED BY Ara Feducia

HAIR AND MAKEUP BY Holly Tomita, Jonah Dela Cruz, & Jarrod Shinn, HMB Studios

MODELED BY Nicole McEwen & Carter Schneider

LOCATION: Manoa Valley, Manoa Falls Trail, Wa‘ahila State Park

Casual, active wear for adventuring around Honolulu.

[ ABOVE ]

[ OPPOSITE ]

ON NICOLE: JACKET, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE X ANTHONY DAVIS; LEGGINGS, OLYMPIA ACTIVEWEAR. ON CARTER: MESH DRESS, T BY ALEXANDER WANG; VEST, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI; LEGGINGS, OLYMPIA ACTIVEWEAR; SHOES, MODELS ' OWN.

ON CARTER: TOP, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI; LEGGINGS, OLYMPIA ACTIVEWEAR. ON NICOLE: KNIT TOP, HELMUT LANG; BODYSUIT AND PANTS, OLYMPIA ACTIVEWEAR.

[ OPPOSITE: TOP RIGHT ]

ON CARTER: HAT AND JACKET, IN 4 MATION; KNIT TOP, OPENING CEREMONY; LEGGINGS, OLYMPIA ACTIVEWEAR.

NICOLE:

[ OPPOSITE: BOTTOM LEFT ]

ON CARTER: DRESS, STÜSSY; JACKET AND HAT, IN 4 MATION; SHOES, MODEL S OWN.

[ ABOVE ]

ON NICOLE: HAT, GENTS; DRESS, STÜSSY; KNIT TOP, MARCELO BURLON; LEGGINGS, OLYMPIA ACTIVEWEAR; TIE - DYE POUCH, HI - DRO BAG; FLASK, CARROTS X LIBERTY BOTTLEWORKS; SHOES, MODEL S OWN.

ON

TANK, ALOHA ARMY; JACKET, DRIES VAN NOTEN; LEGGINGS, OLYMPIA ACTIVEWEAR; SHOES, MODELS OWN.

[ ABOVE ]

[ OPPOSITE ]

CARTER:

4

4

ON NICOLE: LONG SLEEVE, PROENZA SCHOULER; JACKET, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI; SHORTS, THOM BROWNE; LEGGINGS, OLYMPIA ACTIVEWEAR; BACKPACK, ANYA HINDMARCH; SHOES, STYLIST S OWN.

ON

HAT, IN

MATION; HOODIE, KENZO; WATCH, G - SHOCK X IN

MATION; PANTS, OLYMPIA ACTIVEWEAR; PUZZLE BAG, LOEWE; SHOES, MODEL S OWN.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR:

THE KAHALA HOTEL AND RESORT 2017 HAWAII INVITATIONAL OF POLO PRESENTED BY CARTIER

World Class Polo comes to Waimanalo

Sunday, September 16, 2017

Gates open at 10 a.m.

Honolulu Polo Club, Waimanalo Polo Field

This year, the Hawaii Invitational of Polo is truly making history here in Hawaii. The event will be an all-pro format and set at 25 goals per team. Collectively, 50 goals of professional polo players will be on the field showcasing world-class polo skills at the Honolulu Polo Club in Waimanalo, Hawaii. It will be the highest level of professional polo ever to be played in the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the highest rated polo played in North America and the Pacific with the only exception being the US Open of Polo in Wellington, Florida.

An all-pro format is extremely rare and unique. Most professional polo around the globe utilize a pro-am format, where the team is mixed with both professional and amateur players, with the amateur player typically the patron or owner of the team. This is why polo is often referred to as the “Sport of Kings.” The US Open in Florida, Queen’s Cup in the UK and Gold Cup in Dubai are all Pro-Am polo matches, with the Argentine Open as the sole exception.

As the title sponsor of the event, The Kahala Resort will host players from across the globe, with final team selections announced at a red carpet media party. The Kahala Hotel & Resort and Cartier, along with Hawaii Polo Life will host a VIP hospitality tent at the Invitational, and international travel packages will make travel to Hawaii to attend the event easier than ever.

QUOTE FROM HIPA PRESIDENT AND FOUNDER MR. CHRISTOPHER DAWSON:

“I selected an all-pro format to clearly distinguish our event as a one-of-a-kind, best-of-the-best polo event that showcases Hawaii. I am extremely proud of this event, and it clearly plants our flag on the international stage of polo. Just as the Sony Open has done for golf and the Triple Crown has done for surfing. Showcasing Hawaii as a world class destination for professional sports.”

IMAGE BY Megan Spelman

MANAOLA YAP ( RIGHT ) WITH ZACHARY PANG, HIS PARTNER, ON HAWAI‘I ISLAND.

DESIGN TRADITIONS

TEXT BY Rae Sojot IMAGES BY Megan Spelman & COURTESY OF Manaola

Carrington Manaola Yap taps his cultural heritage and his romantic life for his successful Hawaiian clothing line.

Carrington Manaola Yap sports a subtly patterned shirt—a piece from his coveted Manaola brand—while confessing a preference for his other signature look: a worn tank top, loose basketball shorts, and rubber slippers. “It’s a very Big Island, local boy kind of thing,” he says with a grin. As a designer of both ready-to-wear and haute couture lines, this unexpected flash of normalcy adds to Yap’s charm.

Lauded for his culture-conscious clothing, Yap shies away from any braggadocio. Instead, he considers his fashion brand a contemporary contribution to his family legacy, which is rich in artistry. “I come from a family of musicians, artists, hula dancers, and chanters,” Yap explains. “Not just generations’, but centuries’ worth.” Drawing inspiration from his Native Hawaiian heritage, he employs ‘ohe kapala, a stamping tradition that uses handcarved bamboo laths to create patterns. The resulting geometric designs, which resonate with recursive beauty and reverence for culture and ‘aina (land), are digitally transformed into thematic elements for his collections. Since its inception in 2014, the Manaola brand has flourished both in popularity and in production. The designer attributes Manaola’s success to its intention and mana (power): “People are drawn to the integrity of the cultural essence,” Yap says.

Amid his bustling brick and mortar shop in Ala Moana Shopping Center, Yap sinks onto the retail floor’s comfortable couch for a well-deserved, if momentary respite. He and Zachary Pang, his partner in both business and life, are in Honolulu to oversee the delivery of the remaining inventory from a popular pop-up shop at the renowned Merrie Monarch Hula Festival. It has been a whirlwind few weeks—no, a whirlwind few years— for Yap, and his future shows no indication of slowing down.

Rather than dividing his professional and personal lives to be able to manage it all, integrating the two has allowed Yap to thrive. His mother helps steer his artistic direction, his culture influences his designs, and his better half has made the brand even better, according to Yap. “It’s crazy how closely my business and personal life are related,” he says. As a result, Yap’s life—and by extension, his brand—is a collection of myriad facets creating a brilliant, singular light.

THE BEGINNING

As the adage goes, “Behind every great man, there’s a great woman.” For Yap, that great woman is his mother, Nani Lim Yap. “My mom is incredible,” the designer says. “She’s a kumu hula, an amazing singer, she’s creative and spiritual …” His voice trails off as he searches for words to convey his admiration. “I’ve still yet to meet a person that could even match her.” When he was growing up, the Lim Yap household hummed with cultural pursuits. A young Yap could be found making lei, gathering earth to create natural dyes, or researching Hawaiian chants. He toured with a hula ensemble, performing in cities around the world. He trained in Hung Gar kung fu. (His father is a martial artist.) He paddled with an outrigger canoe club and performed in a Chinese lion dance troupe. “I get my artistic eye from my mom,” says Yap, who considers his mother to be the fulcrum of his brand, and his creative compass.

In 2014, when Yap broached the idea of introducing a men’s underwear line at the upcoming Maoli Arts Month Wearable Art Show, his mother posed a simple yet significant question: “What is your intention?”

“My mom is not afraid to step out of the box, as long as the intention is good,” Yap says. His mother’s inquiry led him to define his motivation for the project. One, he wanted to create something that would mark his space in time (an underwear line hadn’t yet been done on the show’s runway). Two, underwear is an everyday necessity. Three, from a business standpoint, underwear is sexy, which sells—especially when Hawaiian men are the ones doing the modeling. Needless to say, the underwear collection was a hit.

Yap continues to follow his mother’s lead, refining and energetically tackling his projects. “Anything my mom had to do, she’d go above and beyond,” he says. “It’s probably why I’ve always been a little extra.”

THE DANCE

If Hawaiian culture is the keystone to his collections, it is hula that hones Yap’s artistic ken. “I’ve been dancing as long as I can remember,” says Yap, who won the master keiki hula title at the renowned Queen Lili‘uokalani Keiki Hula Competition when he was 11 years old.

In the 1990s, Yap’s mother, along with other noted kumu hula (hula teachers), began reviving hula ala‘apapa, a class of sacred dances that features deity references, ancient chants, and legends. For Yap’s family, the dances carried special meaning. “These dances were found in our genealogy,” he says, describing hula ala‘apapa’s esoteric connotations and its emphasis on ritual. As Yap’s mother began weaving these mythological legends into theatrical productions for hotels and shopping centers, the content—exciting and dramatic—allowed for greater artistic license. The Hawaiian deities being represented on stage called for elaborate costuming. “I’d go with my mom to the shore and collect shells to wire into crowns for ocean goddesses,” Yap, who was a young teen then, says. “We’d burn skirts to create ash lines for a fire goddess.”

Years later, Yap has parlayed his experience as a hula practitioner, and his skills from his family’s theatrical productions, into success in the world of fashion. Hula beautifully combines movement and material. Hence, the fashion runway—with its emphasis on costuming and choreography—speaks a language in which he is already well-versed.

Today, telltale hints of those dramatic Hawaiian deities echo throughout Manaola’s lines. A gown from the 2016 Kolani Collection featured a billowing ebony train with a serpentine ‘ohe kapala pattern in gilded gold. It seemed as if the Hawaiian fire goddess Pele had descended from her volcano and walked onto the runway. “That volcanic train became a signature look I am known for,” Yap says.

MANAOLA MODELED BY ASIA YAP, THE DESIGNER ' S SISTER

THE HAPPY ENDING

“We didn’t talk much about his work,” says Zachary Pang about his early days dating Yap. Instead, the pair bonded over their shared love of costumery. When asked how they met, Yap and Pang exchange a covert glance, then burst into laughter. “We joke that we need to have a better story,” Yap says. “Something a little more romantic.”

The couple’s introduction came at Fusion Waikiki, a gay club that was legendary for its revelry. From across the room, Pang caught Yap’s playfully rakish eye. “I could feel him looking at me,” Pang recalls. “And he never looked away.” Finding him impossible to resist, Pang, who says he is normally reserved, approached Yap. The designer was instantly smitten, and the two remained at each other’s side for the rest of the evening.

After their first date at the movies, Yap moved quickly to procure a second meeting by offering to accompany Pang on a supply run to Costco. Pang, a health and fitness buff, needed items for the coming week’s meal prep. “I do meal prep too!” Yap informed him.

“Only I didn’t,” Yap confesses with a sly grin. “But I was willing to say anything to hang out with him more.” Perusing the warehouse aisles together, Pang asked Yap what items he was looking for. “Oh, I get the same things [as you do],” Yap casually replied, mirroring Pang’s choices of egg whites and vegetables and tossing them into the cart. A week later, Yap’s gig was up when Pang arrived at Yap’s apartment only to discover the ingredients languishing in the fridge. But by that time, it was a moot point. The two had already fallen hard for each other.

Today, Pang is an integral part of the Manaola brand, serving as the company’s CEO. His keen business acumen dovetails with Yap’s creative vision, and his equable faith steadies the designer during any moments of self-doubt. With fashion and art, the creative demands are high, Yap explains. Pang’s presence has proven pivotal in providing critical balance. Having the person he loves as part of the work he loves has made the brand more powerful. Says Yap, “Zach was the part that was missing.”

IMAGE BY Kainoa Reponte

THE MAUI WEEKENDER

TEXT BY Aja Toscano IMAGES BY Kainoa Reponte

From lava-lined trails to rustic vineyards, the Valley Isle’s sights make for a memorable three-day trip.

When most imagine Maui, thoughts of cascading waterfalls and miles of golden coastline immediately come to mind. For others, who are acquainted with the Valley Isle, the nostalgic memory of visiting a local shop, such as T Komoda Bakery for its pillowy donuts on a stick, is what they recall. What replays behind the eyelids of others, who have visited Maui’s highest point, is the Haleakala sunrise, when that first glimpse of light peeks through the layer of clouds high above the summit. Whatever your daydream, this itinerary makes the most of Maui’s picturesque slopes and coasts.

Begin your Maui Friday morning in Lahaina town. Follow the surfers to Choice Health Bar to fuel up on a refreshing açaí bowl topped with tropical fruits and local honey. Then head north, past the beaches blocked by hotels and vacation condos. Once the road begins to hug the curves of the mountains and the horizon is unhindered by buildings, you will see Mokule‘ia Bay, more commonly known as Slaughterhouse Beach. (Its name references the Honolua Ranch slaughterhouse that once sat above it, but don’t worry, it’s no longer around.) This protected cove is framed by rocky cliffs that extend into the crystal blue bay, which is ideal for a relaxing morning spent on the sand or in the water. Keep your eyes peeled for the occasional pods of dolphins that frequent the deep waters here.

Right around the corner from Mokule‘ia Bay is one of the most famous attractions on Maui’s west side, Honolua Bay. In the winter, its legendary waves lure hundreds of world champion surfers who are worth watching in action. The rest of the year, it is a great spot to spend a day snorkeling and exploring the lush walk that winds its way beneath a canopy of towering trees.

When you’re beached out, head back to Lahaina to Betty’s Beach Café for a happy hour cocktail on the patio, with views of the ocean and the neighboring islands of Lana‘i and Moloka‘i. You can also catch the sunset while sipping handcrafted mai tais at Merriman’s Kapalua’s Point Lounge, which serves a version of the classic cocktail with Old Lahaina rum, fresh-squeezed lime, orange curaçao, and a signature honey-liliko‘i (passion fruit) foam.

Though Lahaina is filled with restaurants of various cultural cuisines, Frida’s Mexican Beach House is a musttry. While authentic and eclectic Mexican cuisine may not be what you imagine to find in Hawai‘i, Frida’s light atmosphere, vibrant drinks, and colorful dishes packed with bold flavors will have you thinking otherwise.

Once you have sipped a cocktail or two, tuck away for the night at Hotel Wailea, the only Relais and Châteaux property in Hawai‘i, which lies upon a vast 15 acres filled with tropical foliage, waterfalls, and winding pathways. Here, you can relax within your own luxury villa with an expansive ocean-facing lanai, and cherish time away from beachfront crowds. If you still have a hankering for food, or want a more relaxed dinner, head to The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, which incorporates the freshest produce from Maui farms and fishermen. Its menu highlights the beauty of the island’s seasonal and artisanal foods. For a little more seclusion, book the intimate Treehouse, a private venue under a canopy of mango trees with a spectacular sunset view, where you can enjoy a five-course dinner hosted by a private chef.

Wake early Saturday morning to make the drive from Kihei to Kula, a lush area with rich volcanic soil on the slopes of Maui’s dormant volcano, Haleakala. The hub of

the island’s local farming initiatives, this region is home to farms from which Maui’s best Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine restaurants source their fresh produce. Every Saturday morning, Kulamalu Town Center hosts a farmers market that starts at 7 a.m., when vendors from around the island sell a variety of local goods. Be sure to stop by the Maui Cones booth for savory homemade mochiko chicken served on rice wrapped in a nori cone.

If this market is rained out, or you would rather sit down for your meal, head to La Provence. Grab an espresso and a few scrumptious French pâtisseries, like the almond croissants or liliko‘i meringues. Enjoy your order on the open-air patio among a small crowd of regulars, who sip coffee and dine on crêpes while talking story.

From this café, head south on Lower Kula Road to Kula Botanical Garden. With its cooler climate and the occasional drizzle of rain, the 8-acre property, with paths winding between massive sugarbush proteas, colorful hydrangeas, and fragrant eucalyptus, will make you forget that you’re in the middle of the Pacific.

No weekend trip is complete without an afternoon of wine tasting. Situated in the heart of paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) country, MauiWine incorporates wine tasting

with stories about the land, history, and rich culture of Ulupalakua Ranch, where the winery is located. Head into the King’s Cottage—which was built as a guest cottage for King Kalakaua, who visited the ranch frequently in the late 1800s—to sample the handmade pineapple variety; sparkling and estate wines are poured every day from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Then, wander the estate to get a taste of its legacy, and a view of South Maui and its neighboring islands.

Although it is true that Maui’s nightlife is slim, there are still several venues in South Maui where the island’s party starters flock. Follow the house beats and young singles to The Triangle, a bar-hopper’s paradise. This trio of bars includes a mecca of live music, deejays, and dance floors. For a more sophisticated lounge experience, Ambrosia Martini Lounge offers nightly entertainment and an inviting atmosphere for everyone to enjoy. Though it isn’t strict about labels, Sunday nights are widely known as the lounge’s LGBT evenings.

On the northern coast of Maui is Pa‘ia, a historical plantation town with a bohemian personality and constant wind and waves. Head here to spend the morning among eclectic shops and quaint restaurants. The laidback Café Des Amis specializes

in Mediterranean and Indian food and is known for its mouthwatering savory and sweet crêpes. Try the Mediterranean vegetable, feta, and pesto crêpe, served with organic local greens and balsamic herb vinaigrette.

Though you may not want to grab a board and paddle out, watching windsurfers and kitesurfers catch air and play among the waves is a sight to see at Ho‘okipa Beach, arguably the world’s best spot for windsurfing. The perfect vantage point for spectating is at Ho‘okipa Lookout, located right on the edge of the cliff.

Once you’ve gotten your fill of the surf, head back south, stopping in Kihei at Nalu’s South Shore Grill, where Maui Pride hosts its monthly First Sunday LGBTQ Brunch. One of the restaurant’s most popular dishes is its island-style ribs, a platter of marinated beef short ribs served over mixed grain rice alongside sides of kimchee, pickled ginger, and mac salad.

From there, continue down to South Maui’s rocky shores at Keone‘o‘io Bay, or La Perouse Bay. This windy shoreline has walking trails that pass several cultural and archaeological sites en route to popular snorkeling and diving spots.

LA PROVENCE

When you are ready to trade one sunny spot for another, head back north to Makena Beach State Park, or as the locals call it, Big Beach, named so because it is one of the longest beaches in Maui. The real hidden gem is located to the right end of this white-sand stretch, where visitors climb up a lava outcropping and through a narrow opening to Little Beach, which, you’ll quickly learn, is one of a few nude beaches on Maui where stripping bare seems to fly.

Though the chance to sunbathe and bodysurf naked attracts some of Little Beach’s visitors, the lively Sunday night drum circles are what draw most. As the sun sets, the real party begins. Flaming hula hoops and fireballs glow in the darkness, twirled by enchanting dancers lost in the rhythm of the drums.

BEACHES

Slaughterhouse Beach: mile marker 32.2 (Highway 30 aka Honoapi‘ilai Highway)

Ho‘okipa Beach Park: mile marker 8.8 (Hana Highway aka Highway 36)

Makena Beach State Park: Makena Alanui Road, 4 miles from Wailea

La Perouse Bay: End of Makena Alanui Road, 2.8 miles from Makena Beach State Park

THINGS TO DO

Kula Botanical Gardens: 638 Kekaulike Ave., Kula

MauiWine: 14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy., Kula

Ambrosia Martini Lounge: 1913 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei

RESTAURANTS

Choice Health Bar: 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina

Betty’s Beach Café: 505 Front St., Lahaina

Merriman’s Kapalua: 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua

Frida’s Mexican Beach House: 1287 Front St., Lahaina

The Restaurant: 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea

La Provence: 3158 Lower Kula Rd., Kula

Café Des Amis: 42 Baldwin Ave., Paia

Nalu’s South Shore Grill: 1280 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei

HOTEL WAILEA RELAIS AND CH Â TEAUX

Paradise in the Pacific

Reserve three consecutive nights at Montage Kapalua Bay and receive a complimentary fourth night to explore one of the world’s most inspiring islands. Awaiting your arrival are our spacious residences, private lanais, and majestic views over the Pacific Ocean.

Offer valid for travel now through December 18, 2018. Blackout dates and restrictions apply.

O ne B ay D rive , L ahaina (808) 662-6600

montagehotels.com/kapaluabay

IMAGE BY John Hook

MIRAGE AT DESERT X THE OUTDOOR CONTEMPORARY - ART FESTIVAL DESERT X 2017 PRESENTED DOUG AITKEN’S APTLY NAMED INSTALLATION PIECE, MIRAGE , A RANCH - STYLE HOUSE AITKEN ASSEMBLED WITH MIRRORS. BOTH THE EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR OF THE PIECE LITERALLY REFLECTED AND ALTERED THE DESERT ENVIRONMENT.

DESERT HUES

PHOTOGRAPHY

STYLED BY

APPAREL FROM

MODELED BY

TEXT

Escape the city for an eclectic weekend in Palm Springs.

BY John Hook

Bradley Rhea

Mr. Turk & Barrio Vintage

Joe Donohoe & Marcus Austin-Paglialonga

BY Andrea Lee

[ ABOVE ]

THE PALM SPRINGS ART MUSEUM

THE PALM SPRINGS ART MUSEUM IS THE CULTURAL CENTER FOR VISUAL AND PERFORMING ARTS FOR THE COUNTIES OF RIVERSIDE AND SAN BERNARDINO. ITS ATTRACTIONS INCLUDE WORKS BY PICASSO AND WARHOL, A NATIVE AMERICAN ART COLLECTION, AND TWO SCULPTURE GARDENS.

[ OPPOSITE ]

SANTIAGO RESORT

ONLY A FEW MINUTES’ DRIVE FROM DOWNTOWN PALM SPRINGS, THE SANTIAGO RESORT PROVIDES A PRIVATE, INTIMATE RETREAT FOR GAY MEN. THE RESORT AIMS TO KEEP GUESTS COMFORTABLE ALL DAY WITH COMPLIMENTARY BREAKFAST AND LUNCH, PLUS AN OPEN CANTINA, BEFORE THEY HIT THE TOWN AT NIGHT. A HEATED POOL, AN OUTDOOR SPA, AND HAMMOCKS STRUNG FROM THE PALM TREES ARE AMONG THE RESORT’S RELAXING AMENITIES. SWIMSUITS ARE OPTIONAL.

[ ABOVE ] PALM CANYON DRIVE

A TRIP TO PALM SPRINGS IS NOT COMPLETE WITHOUT A STROLL DOWN PALM CANYON DRIVE, THE CITY’S MAIN SHOPPING DISTRICT. ALONGSIDE ITS ARRAY OF SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS ARE ATTRACTIONS LIKE THE GIANT MARILYN MONROE STATUE AND THE PALM SPRINGS ART MUSEUM. EVERY WEEK, AN ARRAY OF VENDORS TAKE OVER THE AVENUE FOR A STREET FAIR, AND SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS STAY OPEN LATE FOR THE FESTIVITIES.

[ OPPOSITE ] THE SAGUARO

THE SAGUARO IS PALM SPRINGS’ MOST COLORFUL HOTEL, INSIDE AND OUT. THE POOLSIDE BALCONIES ARE PAINTED IN AN EYE - CATCHING COLOR GRADIENT FOR INSTAGRAM - WORTHY RAINBOW POOL PARTIES.

THE PARKER PALM SPRINGS

THE PARKER PALM SPRINGS HAS THE DESIGN SENSIBILITY OF RETRO POP ART. THE SPRAWLING GROUNDS HAVE PLENTY TO DISCOVER, INCLUDING TWO POOLS, A CROQUET LAWN, AND TENNIS, BOCCE, AND PÉTANQUE COURTS.

PALM SPRINGS AERIAL TRAMWAY THE PALM SPRINGS AERIAL TRAMWAY CONSISTS OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST ROTATING TRAM CAR, WHICH TRAVELS TWO AND A HALF MILES BY CABLE ALONG CHINO CANYON TO A MOUNTAIN STATION PERCHED AT 8 500 FEET ELEVATION IN MOUNT SAN JACINTO STATE PARK. THIS PARK ENCOMPASSES THE SANTA ROSA AND SAN JACINTO MOUNTAINS NATIONAL MONUMENT AND OFFERS NUMEROUS HIKING TRAILS. FIND THESE LOOKS AT:

SYDNEY

IMAGE BY Gabe Estevez

DESTINATION DOWN UNDER

TEXT BY Aja Toscano

IMAGES BY Kainoa Reponte & Gabe Estevez

A trip to Sydney calls for visits to LGBTQ-friendly suburbs, beautiful beaches, and mountains in hues of blue.

When heading to Sydney, Australia’s most populated city, the first destinations that come to mind are the Opera House and the Sydney Harbour, with their signature architecture and coastline. Once you’ve arrived in Sydney’s hot, bustling financial district, and checked these off your list, head straight to the beach. Fill yourself up on avocado toast and surfer sightings, then head to the Blue Mountains and Sydney’s suburbs to encounter wildlife and urban delights that complete the trip.

BONDI BEACH: TO THE COAST

The best way to do Bondi Beach is to spend the entire day there. In the early morning, get your exercise along the Bondi to Bronte Coastal Walk. Just under two miles, this stroll encompasses gorgeous views of some of Sydney’s most famous beaches and coastal pools, including the picturesque Bondi Icebergs and Tamarama Beach, where surfers shred. At the end of Bronte Beach lies an enclosed saltwater pool that locals use for their morning laps. Back at Bondi, make sure to check out the murals lining the sand that were painted by artists from around the world. Then, grab breakfast at one of the many trendy locales, such as Parida Bondi, a café that sits beneath palm trees and overlooks surfers at Bondi, a cool breeze blowing through its timberline windows. (Tip: the avocado hummus toast and the cold-drip coffee made with coconut water and topped with coconut shavings are musts.)

GROUNDS OF ALEXANDRIA:

If you’re a lover of spring, bountiful fresh blooms, and friendly, giant hogs, then the Grounds of Alexandria is a favorite. Past the wooden gates, you will find twinkling lights, greenery from floor to ceiling, and rustic décor. Try something from one of the four cafes within, especially the Potting Shed, which has delicious menu items, hanging plants, and a bench swing.

THE ROCKS: BLENDING OLD AND NEW

The site of the first European settlement in Australia, The Rocks transports you back in time with its cobblestone walkways, sandstone bricks, and wooden beams that are welcome contrasts to the city’s towering skyscrapers. Among its historic buildings are more than 50 cafes, restaurants, and hotels that serve mouthwatering dishes, such as the Rocks Café, which serves kangaroo and crocodile burgers with sides of chips. Also in The Rocks is the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia. If you’re visiting in the summer, be sure to check out its Art After Hours event, which takes place every Wednesday, when the museum stays open until 9 p.m. and offers unique programming.

BLUE MOUNTAINS: GET IN TOUCH WITH NATURE

You can’t visit Australia without spending a day outside of Sydney. In the Blue Mountains, a region dense with soaring eucalyptus trees, the atmosphere is filled with tiny droplets of oil, which, combined with particles and water vapor, create a tinge of blue across the vast valleys. Hike along lush trails that lead to cascading waterfalls along cliffsides, and breathtaking lookout points. At Scenic World, a visitor attraction, dangle in a cable car high above the crags. While there are many tours that offer to bring you to the Blue Mountains from Sydney, jumping on the train and exploring on foot makes for a more fulfilling experience. (Tip: Buying a pass for the hop-on hop-off explorer bus doesn’t hurt either.)

FEATHERDALE WILDLIFE PARK: SEE AUSSIE WILDLIFE UP CLOSE

When planning a trip to Australia, most travelers put “pet a koala” at the top of their lists. At Featherdale Wildlife Park, visitors can do just that. Found along the way from Sydney to the Blue Mountains, this wildlife park is home to native wildlife in a natural bush setting. Visitors can snap a picture with lazy koala bears, or chill out with joeys (baby kangaroos) at the kangaroo playground.

OXFORD STREET IN DARLINGHURST: EXPERIENCE SYDNEY’S VIBRANT NIGHTLIFE

If you hear music pumping and see vibrant colors decorating buildings, you’ve reached Oxford Street in Darlinghurst, also called The Golden Mile. Here, in 1978, protesters marched for an end to discrimination. Still at the heart of Sydney’s gay and lesbian culture, Oxford Street has lots to offer both in the day and late at night. Every March, the road shuts down for the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras Festival, parade, and dance party, which brings in tens of thousands of visitors annually. During the day, this area and Paddington, its neighboring suburb, are known for their numerous fashionable boutiques and restaurants. In the evening, the nightclubs and bars that line Oxford Street burst with catchy beats that will bring out your inner party animal.

NEWTOWN: FOR WHEN YOU’RE FEELING ARTSY

This suburb is a great alternative for those who don’t consider throbbing nightclubs their scene. With coffee shops, farmers markets, pubs, girls’ nights, vintage shops, and historic buildings, the area has much to offer visitors and residents alike. Also known for its appreciation of the arts, Newtown has a thriving live music and street-art scene. Here, you can treat yourself, and be yourself. When preparing for a return trip to Sydney—because of course you will want come back—neighborhoods like Newtown will be at the top of your list.

OTHER PLACES TO EXPERIENCE:

Basket Brothers: Best brunch spot, great lattés

Aqua S: Serving tasty, vibrantly colored soft serve

Darling Harbour: A bar hopper’s dream

Royal Botanic Garden: Perfect for an afternoon stroll

Luna Park Sydney: A historical amusement park where you can let your inner child play

Broadway Sydney: One of the most elaborate and impressive food courts found within a mall

GUIDES

IMAGE BY Kainoa Reponte

Starwood Hotels & Resorts

With its breathtaking scenery and warm, gentle breezes, a Hawai‘i getaway is synonymous with pleasure—and romance. In addition to legendary vacations filled with sun, surf, shopping, and nightlife opportunities abound for idyllic weddings and honeymoons. Each of Starwood Hotels & Resorts’ 11 hotels in Hawai‘i offers outstanding and authentic wedding, honeymoon, and vow-renewal experiences that capture the spirit of one’s special day. Starwood’s romance packages are as varied as the Hawaiian Islands themselves—combining the finest rooms and suites with popular amenities like breakfast, golf, massage, champagne, and sunset sailing adventures. The stunningly beautiful venues and unforgettable experiences available here include poolside and beachside ceremonies, grand celebrations, and intimate dinners by candlelight. Image courtesy of Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort and Spa.

Get ready for paradise and start planning the perfect getaway at starwoodhotelshawaii.com/lgbt.

Leather Soul

With locations in Waikiki and Downtown Honolulu, Leather Soul has been serving visitors and locals alike for more than 12 years. Featuring Hawai‘i’s best selection of fine men’s shoes and accessories, Leather Soul Waikiki is Hawai‘i’s exclusive retailer of respected shoe brands, such as Alden, John Lobb, Edward Green, and Saint Crispin’s. Leather Soul Waikiki also features Rimowa suitcases, and is Hawai‘i’s exclusive retailer of Briefing, Felisi, and Globe-Trotter. Leather Soul Downtown features exclusive collaboration aloha shirts by Reyn Spooner and Hawai‘i’s most extensive selection of Made-in-USA New Balance sneakers.

Leather Soul is located in Royal Hawaiian Center at 2233 Kalakaua Ave., and in the Stangenwald building at 119 Merchant St. in Honolulu, O‘ahu. For more information, visit leathersoul.com.

SCOTT D. LARIMER, RA

LUXURY COLLECTION SPECIALIST

PROMOTIONAL

Square Barrels

1001 Bishop St., Ste. 208 Honolulu, O‘ahu SQUAREBARRELS.COM

Conveniently located in the heart of downtown Honolulu, pairing gourmet burgers with craft beers is just the tip of the tradition. Square Barrels supports one of the largest selections of locally-brewed beers, including their own 4-1-1 Session Ale and My Korean Wife IPA. Validated parking at Bishop Square Parking Garage.

PROMOTIONAL

Bevy

675 Auahi St. #130 Honolulu, O‘ahu BEVYHAWAII.COM

Inspired by New York-style delicatessens, Bevy Market offers rare selections of fresh cut meat and cheeses, made-in-Hawaii goodies and imported deli selections. Bevy Bar specializes in handcrafted cocktails, crafted beer and wine, as well as delicious small and large plates with a European flare for dinner and late night. Fresh oysters and handmade pasta are offered daily. Happy Hour is from 4–7 p.m., Monday–Saturday. The market and lunch eatery is open at 11 a.m.–3 p.m., Monday–Saturday. The bar opens from 4 p.m.–12 a.m., Monday–Thursday, and 4 p.m.–2 a.m., Friday and Saturday, with musical entertainment.

Tucked away in the heart of Waikiki, this cozy karaoke bar and kitchen is a popular hangout to belt out some ’80s favorites, showtunes, and local island classics. Don't miss Sunday brunch.

Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm

Enjoy tours through this Upcountry farm, which boasts more than 40 varieties of aromatic lavender, alongside lavender tea or coffee and lavender scones. Partake in daily guided walking and cart tours, or simply explore the grounds at your own leisure and pace.

Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm is located at 1100 Waipoli Rd. in Kula, Maui. For more information, visit aliikulalavender.com.

Belle Surf Café

1794 S. Kihei Rd. Kihei, Maui

BELLESURFCAFE.COM

Like a lovely Parisian street bistro, Belle Surf Café serves an assortment of crêpes both savory (salmon, bacon, chicken, and mozzarella) and sweet (strawberry, banana, Nutella, and honey), along with expertly prepared, small-batch specialty coffee.

Mai Grille

Before opening Mai Grille, chef Allen Hess worked in legendary Big Island kitchens among renowned chefs including Peter Merriman, Alan Wong, and Roy Yamaguchi. Set in an open, contemporary clubhouse overlooking the Waikoloa Beach Resort’s Kings’ Golf Course, Mai Grille offers local classics with a modern and sophisticated spin. Have the signature housemade “Mai Bacon” ala carte or in a number of dishes, like the Mauka Eggs Benedict, Ali‘i Burger, or Endless Bacon Bloody Mary.

Mai Grille is locted at 69-622 Waikoloa Beach Dr. For reservations, call (808) 886-7600, or visit maigrille.com.

Lava Lava Beach Club

Whether you are exploring the splendor of Kaua‘i or the hot lava on the Big Island, Lava Lava Beach Club is the new standard for islandinspired cuisine and creative cocktails served up toes-in-the-sand style. Lava Lava Beach Club Big Island stakes its claim on laidback luxury with an award-winning beachfront restaurant and four private beach cottages complete with outdoor showers and upscale amenities. Lounge surfside and enjoy relaxed Hawaiian cuisine and spectacular sunsets featuring live music and hula, and don’t forget the classic umbrella drinks. At the northern end of the island chain, Lava Lava Beach Club Kaua‘i crafts the same tropical paradise with oceanfront, islandinspired cuisine. Embrace the Hawaiian surf shack vibe with ono-licious food and sandy toes seating. Located on the beach at the Kaua‘i Shores Hotel, the gay-owned and -operated Lava Lava Beach Club encourages guests to celebrate something every day. Find Lava Lava Beach Club in the Waikoloa Beach Resort on Hawai‘i Island, and on Kaua‘i in Kapa‘a at 420 Papaloa Rd.

For more information, visit lavalavabeachclub.com.

Onomea Tea

Overlooking its namesake, Onomea Bay, the company’s organic Hawai‘i Island teas are all grown and processed on island using all natural and sustainable farming methods. Tea tours and tastings are offered by reservation only.

Onomea Tea is located at 27-604 Alakahi Pl. in Papaikou on Hawai‘i Island. For more information, visit onotea.com.

Paniolo Adventures

Mile 13.2, Kohala Mountain Rd. Waimea, Hawai‘i Island PANIOLOADVENTURES.COM

Experience open-range horseback riding with Paniolo Adventures at Ponoholo Ranch. The 11,000-acre working cattle ranch, which stretches from mountain to ocean, offers the most spectacular views of the Kona and Kohala coastlines, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai volcanoes, and Haleakala on the island of Maui.

HOURS

For reservations, call 808-886-7600 or visit maigrille.com. Relax

69-622 Waikoloa Beach Dr. Waikoloa, HI 96738

Daily: 8am–6pm until 9pm on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday

Happy Hour: 2–5pm daily

Brunch: Sundays 7:30am–2:30pm

Ko Bakery

Started by Chris Spinosa, Morris Wise, and their respective husbands, the Kaua‘i bakery serves up layered custom cakes, baked goods, and sweet treats infused with island-sourced ingredients.

Ko Bakery is located at 4302 Rice St. in Lihu‘e, Kaua‘i. For more information, visit kobakery.com.

Little Fish Coffee

3900 Hanapepe Rd. Hanapepe, Kaua‘i LITTLEFISHCOFFEE.COM

For a morning pick-me-up, head to Little Fish Coffee for its freshly baked sticky buns, croissants, and handbrewed Ka‘u coffee. Try the Midnight Marauder—four shots of espresso and sweetened condensed milk that will have you bouncing off the diversely decorated walls—and take advantage of the Wi-Fi, an amenity hard to come by in sleepy Hanapepe town.

Aloha Exchange

2-2535 Kaumuali‘i Hwy. Kalaheo, Kaua‘i THEALOHAEXCHANGE.COM

At this Kalaheo surf shop, which specializes in sourcing hard-to-find, quality surf and skate gear from Hawai‘i and around the United States, shoppers can find apparel from lines like Portland-based Brixton or wetsuits from California-based Seea, alongside local designs by Cassandra Rull and surfboards made in Koloa by Will Scovel.

A HUI HOU, UNTIL WE MEET AGAIN

Waving proud in sunny Palm Springs, California.

IMAGE BY John Hook

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