In Hawaiâi, a sense of gratitude and indebtedness for the past continue to be a source of inspiration. At Halekulani, we are committed to the timeless spirit of aloha as a way to care for our guests and honor all those who came before us. This gesture is most prevalent in how we interact with the trees of Hawaiâi that have been here generations before us, from kiawe to âÅhiâa.
Within these pages of Living, learn about how we are paying tribute to the presence of both. In the Halekulani lobby and at Orchids, you may have noticed new sculptures crafted with salvaged branches from our beloved kiawe tree, an enduring symbol of our hospitality. These sculptures that welcome you to the grounds are a direct product of a collaboration between a master sogetsu ikebana artist and renowned local sculptor. Together, they transformed parts of the kiawe into a sogestu âfloworkâ displaying the harmonious blend of flowers and artwork. Please take a moment to visit them during your stay.
Also in this issue, we pay our respects to other iconic tropical trees. Turn to our feature on âÅhiâa, considered the mother of the native forest. In the valley of MÄnoa, not far from here, a revitalization of the tree is underway. Learn about how this tree is rooted in Hawaiian culture and tradition and what we can all to do support the species, especially as we travel among the island chain.
We also get to the roots of the once-robust harvest of the coconut palm, a canoe plant brought to Hawaiâi by the first settlers. We travel down its turn-of-thecentury past, when its cultivation in the islands was at its peak, to remember how its flavor rooted itself in our modern day palate, a taste of the islands we celebrate with our famous coconut cake.
Finally, in honor of Motherâs Day, we pay homage to the moms of our local creatives. Go inside their childhood homes to get a better understanding of their special kinships.
We hope this edition of Living offers a portrait of Hawaiâi unlike any other. Long after your stay in the islands ends, may it serve as an irreplaceable keepsake of your time here with us.
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CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER
PETER SHAINDLIN
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CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
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GENERAL MANAGER, HALEKULANI
ULRICH KRAUER
DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING
GEOFF PEARSON
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ARA LAYLO
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Quilter Patricia Lei Murray considers her work to be a meditative experience.
ã¬ã€ãã¬ãŒããã«ãšã£ãŠ ãã«ãäœãã¯çæ³ã® ãããªãã®ã ãšãã
A Sense of Renewal
Reeling in Honua
Art of the Stitch
Along the Coconut Belt
WELLNESS
Hearty âÅhia
Mother Knows Best
Creation of Kapa
Coffee & Pancakes
CITY GUIDES 118
Explore: Aloha for All 126
Explore: Travel in Tune 134
Spotlight: Hildgund
A species of the mesquite tree, kiawe can live for more than 1,000 years.
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ABOUT THE COVER:
The cover image, shot by photographer John Hook, of a kapa design. Read about this Hawaiian artform on page 74. To learn more about the culture of kapa, view the video at halekulaniliving.tv.
Halekulani Living
At the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, its ethnology collections preserve ancient kapa.
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102 ABOUT THE COVER:
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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ARTS 22
æ°ããæ¯å¹ 32
ããã¢ã®æ ã®èšé² 38 ã¹ãããã®èžè¡ CUISINE 50 ã³ã³ããããã«ã CULTURE 60
æ¯èŠªãäžçªããç¥ã£ãŠãã 74
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Splendid pastries are served with an assortment of coffee drinks and teas at the Veranda at Halekulani.
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Halekulani Living è¡šçŽã«ã€ããŠïŒ
WELLNESS 92
ãªãã¢ã®åŸ©æŽ» FASHION 102
ã³ãŒããŒãšãã³ã±ãŒã CITY GUIDES 118
ãã¹ãŠã®äººã«ã¢ããã 126
é³æ¥œã®æ 134
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Living TV is designed to complement the understated elegance enjoyed by Halekulani guests, with programming focused on the art of living well. Featuring cinematic imagery and a luxurious look and feel, Living TV connects guests with the arts, style, and people of Hawaiâi. To watch all programs, tune into channel 2 or online at halekulaniliving.tv.
CREATION OF KAPA
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Kapamakers continue to pass down, untangle, demystify, and reclaim this nearly forgotten practice.
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A SENSE OF RENEWAL
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An ikebana sensei and an acclaimed sculptor debut a floral centerpiece in the lobby of Halekulani.
watch online at: halekulaniliving.tv
COFFEE & PANCAKES
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Sip and taste your way through the wonderful brunch offerings of Honolulu.
ART OF THE STITCH
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Hawaiian quilts embody treasured memories and remind us of the value of craftsmanship.
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THE LIVING GUIDE TO TEMPLES
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In search of wholeness and good fortune, a writer visits three distinct Asian temples on Oâahu.
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A SENSE OF RENEWAL
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An ikebana sensei and an acclaimed sculptor debut a floral centerpiece that breathes new life into Halekulaniâs welcoming space.
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Hours after the 129-year-old kiawe tree outside House Without A Key fell in the night, artist John Koga received a phone call. It was Halekulaniâs executive team. They sought his advice for a looming task: What is a proper way to handle the deconstruction of its tremendous branches? Koga, who had regularly displayed artwork on the hotelâs grounds, suggested they try to save every bit of the timber. He didnât know exactly what for, only that it would be wise to salvage and store all of it for the sake of art.
The first creation born of the idea to repurpose the kiaweâs lost branches into something new and lasting has taken shape as a vessel set before the hotelâs check-in counters. Koga worked with Hiromi Sugioka, a Sogetsu ikebana master, to create the living fixture that is now on view: a hollowed-out vase composed of reclaimed wood that bursts forth with a high-and-wide floral arrangement. One week, it features a gallant display of ferns among a delirium of white and red anthuriums punctuated by bubblegum pink-hued heliconia that dangle like crystals from a chandelier. The next week, this fountain of flowers is envisioned afresh. Here, in the center of the lobby at Halekulani, harmony constantly takes shape.
âI wanted to revive this kiawe in a new form,â said Sugioka, who conceived of the piece and directed its creation. Over the Thanksgiving holiday in 2018, Sugioka and Koga worked on the project at Kogaâs MÄnoa home. Though the two artists come from different disciplines, what they share is an obedience to organic forms and an exacting eye. Referencing the Sogetsu senseiâs hand-drawn design of the vessel, Koga labored to find practical ways to assemble itâcutting, fitting, stacking, and drilling stumps together on the floor of his studio. âHe was able to construct and make into a reality exactly what I have envisioned for this project,â Sugioka said.
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The finished kiawe sculpture greets guests upon their arrival in the Halekulani lobby. It symbolizes balance, serenity, and the natural world.
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The finished shape honors the treeâs natural, woodsy character with soft and wavy edges that follow the curves of each branch. Contrasted with this are sawed surfaces left intentionally rough and unfinished. In an appeal to ikebanaâs enthusiasm for balance and form, the chest-high sculpture is made to be conspicuous without being flamboyant. The vase is sturdy enough to physically support all sorts of arrangements, but fluid enough to become one with them. It should breeze over the guests like a âbreath of fresh air,â Koga said, that ârepresents all of Hawaiâiâs nature and beauty coming together in one little object.â
With the kiawe sculpture complete and in place at the Halekulani lobby, Sugioka composed its first arrangement. She placed and moved stems in and about the vase slowly but with confidence, like a chess expert moving pieces around a chessboard. Every motion she made appeared clear in thought. By the time she placed the final stem, the sculpture had taken on a numinous air. For Koga, witnessing an artist of Sugiokaâs caliber at work and experiencing her reverence for Halekulaniâs kiawe was âthe most beautiful part of this journey.â
Sugioka, as an ikebana practitioner, treats her usual mediumâthe islandsâ tropical floraâwith the same measured degree of deliberation that renowned classic artists have given plants and their blooms: van Goghâs irises, OâKeeffeâs engorged petals, Manetâs prosaic attention to peonies in a
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âI wanted to revive this kiawe in a new form,â says ikebana master Sugioka, who conceived the overall sculpture.
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crystal vase. As subject matter, flowers and foliage graciously grant artists and observers reason to slow down, pause, and reflect. If one takes the time, one can see this in Sugioka and Kogaâs piece, in the way its flowers change while the sculpture remains the same. At its most elemental, their collaboration is a reminder that a piece of art can be wrought from the quotidian earth.
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REELING IN HONUA
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After four years, HÅkÅ«leâa , the famed deep-sea sailing canoe, completed its circumnavigation of the globe. Nearly every moment of that odyssey was documented on film.
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Through filmmaking, a rare documentative opportunity of the voyaging canoe HÅkÅ«leâa arrives to the screen.
Running more than two hours, the documentary MoananuiÄkea: One Ocean, One People, One Canoe tracks the HÅkÅ«le â a âs epic MÄlama Honua Worldwide Voyage, which traversed more than 41,000 nautical miles to 23 countries, 150 ports, and eight UNESCO Marine World Heritage sites. Filmmakers followed the entire journey, from the training of the first crew and the departure from Hilo, Hawaiâi Island, through the Pacific, Indian, and Atlantic oceans, to the canoeâs homecoming in Honolulu. Adventures and bonds were created that could not have been foreseen at its inception: Children were born; the last surviving founder of the Polynesian Voyaging Society, Ben Finney, passed away a month prior to the voyageâs completion in June of 2017. The voyage of HÅkÅ«le â a , and its story of oceanic adventure, indigenous resilience, and environmental activism, was retold around the world.
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âEight of us worked on the voyage,â says lead producer NÄâÄlehu Anthony, who co-produced the film with Bryson Hoe and Maui Tauotaha under local production company âÅiwi TV, of which Anthony is the co-founder and CEO. The âÅiwi TV documentarians provided live updates and web streaming, and shot, edited, and cut materials for international news pieces. The documentarians worked through perilous conditions, the type familiar to readers of Hemingway and Melville. The film includes several scenes of waves breaking over
HÅkÅ«leâa âs twin hulls as midshipmen brace through intemperate seas.
âIn the first voyages of HÅkÅ«leâa , everything was on film,â Anthony says of the canoeâs earliest outings in the 1970s. âIn 2014, when we started this documentary, we spent most of our time figuring out what they did in the film days, how to keep things dry.â
The Polynesian Voyaging Society was founded in Honolulu in 1973. It was created, in part, to test legends of deep-sea Pacific voyages recounted by story, chant, and legend and taught by specialized sects of the community, as well as competing theories of transoceanic voyages made by Polynesians prior to Western contact. In the intervening centuries since Western contact, many traditional forms of canoe-building and navigation had been lost. The Polynesian Voyaging Society spawned a cultural resurgence of Pacific identity. Deep-sea voyaging canoes have been built throughout the Pacific and on all the major Hawaiian islands since HÅkÅ«leâa , and thousands of sailors and navigators have since learned to guide them on perpetual voyages of discovery.
Those who participated in MÄlama Honua have been forever changed. âAfter the world premiere screening I noticed that the orchestra pit, the one in front of the stage, thatâs the same size as the deck of HÅkÅ«leâa ,â Anthony says, of its 62 feet by 10 feet space. âThatâs all the room we had. As filmmakers, we had to get new angles, new shots. When we started, we were somewhat novices at this.â
As a Pacific odyssey, the MÄlama Honua journey was the first of its kind. Ports presented range of experiences to the crew members. Some were sparsely populated anchorages in which the crew readied the canoe and connected with a host to get something to eat. Other ports were global cities in which elaborate cultural festivals were attended by thousands, replete with offerings, speeches, dignitaries, and the presentation of gifts.
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Director NÄâÄlehu Anthony, pictured opposite, dedicated at least three years to capturing the emotions and lessons that the sea offered to those aboard the canoe.
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The film MoananuiÄkea recounts the worldwide voyage of HÅkÅ«leâa. Itâs a story of oceanic adventure, indigenous resilience, and environmental activism.
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Two-hundred-forty-five sailors manned HÅkÅ«leâa on various legs of the journey. HÅkÅ«leâa needed to be repaired several times during the voyage, and was dry-docked for months in New Zealand and South Africa. The film shows what happens in intimate moments at sea between teachers and students, and the emotional cultural exchange that happened everywhere the crew went. Women star in most of these scenes. Apprentice Navigator Jenna Ishii and Captain Kaâiulani Murphy, who are both educators on land, first appear in the film training in classrooms and off of Honolulu Harbor as men speak platitudes of oceanic navigation. After nearly half a decade at sea, they are transformed into seasoned, capable navigators and community leaders, and they are running the meetings.
âThis isnât just a film for canoe lovers, this is a film for everyone in Hawaiâi,â Anthony says. âThis is an opportunity for us to come together. We see it as an extension of the voyage. We hope to screen the film at the ports that supported us, to go everywhere the voyage went.â
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ART OF THE STITCH
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Hawaiian quilts embody treasured memories from Hawaiâiâs storied history and remind us of the value of craftsmanship.
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A single quilt requires thousands of intricate stitches fastened by hand and often takes years to complete.
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Intention and mindfulness are essential to the successful creation of a Hawaiian quilt. When completed, a quilt is given a name to bring its purpose to life. For master quilter Patricia Lei Murray, this process is just as important as the product. âOnce a pattern has been decided and dedicated, the meditation begins,â says Lei Murray, who has been quilting for more than 40 years. âThere is a quiet prayer at the cutting and deep breaths supporting the progress. Once the pattern is cut and laid folded at the piko (center), the quilt is born.â These projects often take years. Even a small quilt requires thousands of intricate stitches done by hand. During the process, an intimate relationship is formed, and the individualâs mana becomes imbued in the quilt.
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Hawaiians were already fluent in the language of textile art when missionaries introduced the technique of quilting to Hawaiâi at the end of the 19th century. Kapa was the traditional Hawaiian barkcloth fabric made by pounding wauke (paper mulberry) into a pliable cloth and stamping it with inked patterns using âohe kÄpala, or hand-carved bamboo stamps. These delicate tapestries were used for everything from clothing to bed coverings to burial wrappings. As native attire gave way to Victorian-style fashion, traditional kapa moe (bed coverings) transformed into heavier Hawaiian quilts adorned with patterns featuring native foliage.
âI believe Hawaiian women were interested in bringing nature into their homes in a larger way and instinctively figured out a way to do this,â Lei Murray says. She recalls a beloved origin story about a woman laying her sheets in the sun under an âulu (breadfruit) tree, detailing how the leaves and fruit cast shadows upon sheets. This inspired the woman to create the first Hawaiian quilt pattern, the âulu. This plant is not only significant as a staple food throughout Polynesia, but also symbolic: the Hawaiian word âulu means âabundance and growth.â
Though quilting is often solitary, connections among practitioners are nurtured. Lei Murray began her journey in the craft as a young mother when she connected with quilting via continued education courses at Kamehameha Schools KapÄlama. âEvery quilt has a story,â she says. âI learned from the early kÅ«puna that each quilt receives mana, or power from the quilter, with thoughts of aloha quietly stitched into the echoes of the pattern.â Lei Murrayâs natural talent for quilting blossomed and soon she was creating her own pieces, like a treasured quilt in honor of Hawaiian women during the Overthrow when the Hawaiian flag was lowered from âIolani Palace. She named it âKuâu Hae Aloha Mauâ (âMy Beloved Flag Foreverâ). The quilt is displayed proudly at the Office of Hawaiian Affairs as a reminder of the strength and unity of the Hawaiian Kingdom and all it has endured.
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Quilting not only connects fragments of fabric, but a tight-knit community of practitioners. Above, Pat Gorelangton and Patricia Lei Murray.
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An author of multiple books about sewing and the culture of Hawaiâi, Patricia Lei
Murray considers quilting to be a meditative experience.
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In 2013, Lei Murray began teaching courses at the Honolulu Museum of Art School, where she met quilter Kanani Reppun, one of her earliest students. âIt is definitely meditative, in that Iâm very focused,â Reppun explains. âI can sit in a room and quietly quilt for hours, or I can do so in the presence of my quilting sisters where we express aloha to our quilts.â
Thirty-year-old quilter Pat Gorelangton is a member of The Poakalani and Co. Hawaiâi Quilting Guild led by the late master quilters Althea Poakalani Serrao and husband John Serrao. Gorelangton quilts an estimated 10 hours a day at home and looks forward to sharing her pieces at the weekly Poakalani gatherings. âIt has certainly taught me creativity,â she says. âIâm so happy with myself when I can come up with a design that is pleasing to me as well as pleasing to others, because I often try to put a more modern twist.â
Though the quilters are purists when it comes to technique, their love for the artform welcomes modern applications and opportunities. Lei Murray was approached by Amber Thibaut, owner of keiki clothing company Coco Moon, to design a pattern for a baby blanket that would pay homage to the artform but be printed atop buttery-soft bamboo fabric. âI didnât want to just mimic the style of a Hawaiian quilt,â Thibaut says. âI wanted to truly bring it to life by working with a master quilter who could infuse it with love, tradition, and care.â Lei Murray employed
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l earned from the early kÅ«puna that each quilt receives mana, or power from the quilter, with thoughts of aloha quietly stitched into the echoes of the pattern.â
â Patricia Lei Murray, master quilter
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The âulu (breadfruit) is one of the earliest Hawaiian quilt patterns.
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the same handcrafted approach to the process. The resulting print is thoughtfully detailed, down to its graphically rendered stitches, and is a heartwarming nod to tradition, with the patterned âulu symbolizing the nurturing of growing babies and families.
âThe secret to success in Hawaiian quilting is to love the process,â Lei Murray says. She and her fellow quilters seek to share this process, including the tradition of Hawaiian quilting and the values the discipline has imparted. Gorelangton embraces modern platforms such as Poakalani and Co.âs website and her personal Instagram page (@hawaiianquiltsbypat) to display her work and connect with others. âThe practice of quilting has given me a true appreciation for this art,â Gorelangton says. âI love the tactile process, the stories and the connections that Iâve made. Itâs amazing and very fulfilling.â
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ALONG THE COCONUT BELT
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The islandsâ robust coconut industry of the turn of the century may be only a memory to many, but its flavors live on in Hawaiian cuisine.
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The populated islands of the Hawaiian-Emperor seamount chain lie at the northern border of the Coconut Belt, where the palm tree Cocos nucifera prefers to grow, thriving in the sandy soil and salty wind of the tropics. It is the historic tree of life for the peoples of the Pacific and Indian oceans.
A coconut treeâs usefulness is extraordinary: Its massive leaves provide thatching and bedding, its timber is both sturdy and seaworthy, it is a source of sweet water, and its pulp can produce fatty milk or be dried and pressed to make oil. Coconut husk can be woven or braided to create rope, and the polished coconut itself makes an excellent vessel for storing fine jewelry or drinking âawa.
The niuâthe Hawaiian word for coconutâ is a âcanoe plant,â brought to Hawaiâi as cargo aboard the double-hulled sailing canoes of intrepid Polynesian voyagers, and later planted inland. Some coastal groves are the result of drupes that have been carried by wind and current, capable of surviving for up to four months at sea. Hawaiâiâs coastlines bear remnants of hundreds of cultivated coconut groves planted over generations as part of the endogenous economy that developed over centuries. Within the last several years, some groves have also been planted in an attempt to build a coconut industry. Coconut-based foods are staples of a traditional and contemporary Polynesian diet. Coconut milk can be stewed for hours with squid and taro leaves to make squid lÅ«âau, or it can be prepared quickly with a thickener (starch or gelatin) and sugar to create the universally beloved haupia.
For tourists craving the traditional experience, coconut harvesting is still performed at lÅ«âau across the islands. As part of the display, men crack jokes while tree climbing, husking, grating, and straining coconut milk, and occasionally starting a fire. The jokes, like the uses of the coconut itself, have become ubiquitous, best delivered in Hawaiian Pidgin or a Samoan accent: Eh, you guys get dry skin? Coconut oil. Split ends? Coconut oil. Divorcing? Coconut oil. Never gets old.
The coconut is resilient to climate change and has become en vogue for its water and oil over the last decade. These days, the coconut-based goods business is worth more than $2 billion worldwide. While the notion of becoming rich off a nearly indestructible tropical tree is nothing new, it never stuck in Hawaiâi. Even when the Honolulu Star
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Coconut-based foods are staples of a Polynesian diet.
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Bulletinâs front page exclaimed âVery Enthusiastic Over Coconut Industryâ in 1913, the sugar and pineapple industries dominated the economy of the Territorial Era, and coconuts were relegated to the ubiquitous groves of the islands. Harvesting coconuts remains dangerous and labor intensive, and most farmers have better luck with produce nearer to the ground.
If your favorite coconut product has ties to Hawaiâi, that doesnât mean the coconuts necessarily come from the islands. Indonesia, the Philippines, and India dominate the international coconut trade, with Caribbean and African countries increasing production to meet demand. But the coconuts seen at Hawaiâiâs roadside kiosks and small restaurants are mostly from local landowners who supply their own small bounty with their community, family, and those passing through.
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The creatives in the following pages find inspiration in their motherâs teachings and character. Right, Mihana and NÄpali Souza; below, MÄlia Kaâaihue and Micah and KeÄnuenue DeSoto.
MOTHER KNOWS BEST
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Living visits the homes of six wÄhine and their children to converse on motherhood, childhood, and creativity.
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In Hawaiâi, we typically honor our mÄkuahine (mothers) with lei and brunch. Keeping her favorite flower in mind (for my mother, pÄ«kake and pakalana), we buy or make a lei and hope it complements whichever Manuhealiâi dress she decides to wear. Then, arriving arm-in-arm with her, we treat her to a meal in honor of all the times she made our school bentos and financed our crackseed-store visits. As we sip our mimosas, we give the final giftâthe gift of âtalking story,â so mom can reminisce about the days before and after she raised us, and relive all the cherished moments in between.
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Beadie and Donne Dawson
Deep in the lush recesses of Nuâuanu Valley is the Dawson residence. Here, words like kuleana (responsibility), haâahaâa (humility), and mÄlama âÄina (take care of the land) have been passed down through generations, spreading like educational roots that connect one Dawson to another. The late Annie Kanahele, her daughter Beadie Dawson, and her granddaughter Donne Dawson have lived by these values. This is shown in their activism, conservation endeavors, and efforts to educate others on Hawaiian rights.
Kanahele had witnessed and mourned the deterioration of âIolani palace since the Overthrow, which began in 1893, three years before she was born. In 1965, her daughter Beadie proposed that the Junior League of Honoluluâs next project be the restoration of the historic building and the reclaiming of its original furnishings. Beadieâs fellow league members agreed to undertake the large project, primarily relying on word-of-mouth to track down the original décor. Today, the palace nearly resembles its past self, and it continues to be restored by The Friends of âIolani Palace.
Beadieâs protection of Hawaiian rights did not end there. In 1997, she volunteered to legally represent Na Pua a Ke Aliâi Pauahiâthe student, teacher, alumni, and parent beneficiaries of Princess Pauahiâs trustâas they fought to reform the trusteesâ actions. For years, the Bishop Estateâs trustees had been accused of using trust funds to benefit themselves over the schoolâs beneficiaries. As Na Puaâs lawyer, Beadie ensured that the investigation into the trusteesâ actions was objectively conducted. When the report became public, it confirmed years of misdeeds by the trustees and garnered more public support for the beneficiaries.
Today, Donne Dawson has found her own form of activism. As the Hawaiâi State Film Commissioner, Donne ensures that Hawaiâiâs lands and oceans are protected and Hawaiian culture is accurately portrayed during filming. She also decides which film projects are allowed to be produced in the state, taking into consideration her culture when doing so. âThere are times when Iâve come under attack for feeling strongly about my culture and environment,â Donne says. âBut I do not waiver. Itâs in my DNA, I think.â
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Always fight for what is just and pono.â â Beadie Dawson, to her daughter Donne â
Be clear in what you believe in and advocate for those things.
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MÄlia Ka â aihue and Micah and KeÄnuenue DeSoto
At the beginning of the year, the Kaâaihue and DeSoto âohana set personal goals and then share them among their growing family of 10. (The youngest child, Wailana, was born on December 30, 2018.) These include practical goals like paying rent and getting a 4.0 GPA. But MÄlia Kaâaihue, the 39-year-old mother of this family, also pushes her husband and children to focus on building character. Her 21-yearold son, Micah, is working on being more present and grateful. His 15-year-old sister, KeÄnuenue, wants to be more patient. MÄlia, an entrepreneur and community leader, is determined to be more engaging and mindful in her day-to-day life.
When she was a freshman at the University of Hawai â i at MÄnoa, MÄlia became pregnant with Micah. For the next decade, as she pursued four degrees, she was both a mother and a student. While studying for her PhD, MÄlia would start her day at 6 a.m., preparing her children for school, attending class at 9 a.m., and then making time to write her dissertation. After attaining her doctorate in political science, MÄlia taught in higher education and then joined the Office of Hawaiian Affairs. Then, in 2013, she founded DTL Hawaii, a Hawaiian strategy studio committed to asking this question: How can DTL provide the highest level of inclusion of culture and community into Hawaiâiâs big projects that will shape Hawaiâi for the next 10 generations?
Meanwhile, her children have followed her advice to be âthe designers of their own lives.â When Micah was a junior in high school, he walked his first fashion show for local designer Manaola. The following year, he signed with Nomad Mgmt, a modeling agency based in New York and Miami, which gave him the opportunity to model in Thailand and walk at New York Fashion Week twice. Today, Micah continues to model locally and abroad. KeÄnuenue, a sophomore at Kamehameha Schools, is also an entrepreneur. In 2015, she founded Anu Hawaiâi, a swimwear brand. In October 2018, she held a fashion show for the Council for Native Hawaiian Advancement. Now she is working with a factory in Bali to mass-produce her line.
Micah admits that the DeSoto children donât always follow their New Yearâs resolutions. But creating yearly goals echoes an important lesson from their mother: âDonât wait for things to happen, make them happen.â
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Be mindful of your culture. Never be shame of who you are.â
â MÄlia Kaâaihue, to her children Micah and KeÄnuenue
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The
most precious gift for a mother is âtalking story,â so we can reminisce about the days before and after she raised us, and relive all the cherished moments in between.
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Mari Matsuda and Kimiko Matsuda-Lawrence
Most children donât learn about intersectionality, patriarchy, or systemic racism until theyâve reached college. But Kimiko Matsuda-Lawrence is an exception, having been raised by Mari Matsuda and Charles Lawrence III, both professors of law at the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoa. In Kimikoâs childhood home, critical race theory and feminist theory were discussed around the dining table. Renowned scholars and theorists like Catharine MacKinnon are among her parentsâ good friends. Mari, the first female tenured Asian American law professor, took her children to protests in between sewing Halloween costumes and chaperoning school field trips.
Making a home in Washington D.C. and then Honolulu, Mari immersed her children in both political climates. Whether they joined her in the law classroom or at national conferences, Kimiko and her brother, Paul, glimpsed a world that awaited them. While Kimiko was attending Harvard for her undergraduate degree, the daily campus newspaper, The Harvard Crimson, published an anti-affirmative action story questioning the qualifications of its black students. In response, Kimiko created âI, Too, Am Harvard,â a photo campaign featuring 60 black students and their experiences at the university. In the campaign, black students held up whiteboards displaying racist statements others had said to them. Since its debut in 2014, âI, Too, Am Harvardâ has inspired similar projects at universities from Yale University and University of Iowa.
Today, Kimiko lives in New York, where she is a writer and playwright, and Mari teaches law at the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoa. Both mother and daughter continue to make community activism an integral part of their relationship. In December 2018, Kimiko visited Hawaiâi to partake in the usual holiday festivities. While she was home, she also joined her mother in protesting U.S. militarism and reef destruction in Okinawa.
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Joyce Okano and Kenna Reed
In 1984, while she was still in college, Joyce Okano left her job at Gucci to manage the first independent Chanel shop in the United States. She did so to be able to make her own rules. The store drew customers from Japan who were already familiar with the brand, and Okano found ways to attract Hawaiâi residents as well, choosing merchandise with a local flare and even turning the top floor of her shop into a local art gallery. Because of her wise management of this first shop, Okano was asked to help open Chanel stores across Hawaiâi and then the U.S. West Coast.
Okanoâs 28-year-old daughter Kenna Reed has also chosen to be her own boss. Growing up, Reed didnât realize attending fashion weeks in Paris and New York were atypical experiences for kids her age. While immersing her three daughters in the fashion world, Okano made sure to dissuade them from following the toxic messages of runway. âI told my daughters, those models up there on the runway are freaks of nature,â she says. âNo one is naturally that skinny.â
But early in Reedâs photography career, she found herself in a local scene similar to her motherâs, shooting thin models and then having her images Photoshopped to achieve unnatural beauty standards. So Reed turned her lens to subjects she was personally drawn to, both human and inanimate, and the resulting aesthetic got her recurring photoshoots with Kakaâako flower shop Paiko. Today, the freelance photographer enjoys pursuing and refining the craft she loves. Reed hopes that her professional journey will one day inspire her two daughters, who are 1 and 5 years old, to be relentless in pursuing their own creative passions.
As Reedâs creative ventures were growing, Okano retired from Chanel. Now she is president of the nonprofit Friends of the Hawaii State Art Museum. Over the years, she has converted her Kahala home into her own private gallery. The paintings and sculptures within harken back to family excursions to the Louvre and MoMA. Of all the memories from fashion-week trips, Okano and Reed recall these museum visits most fondly.
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I feel like the best advice has always been way more about her leading by example.â â Kenna, of her mother, Joyce Okano
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Mihana and NÄpali Souza
NÄpali Souza remembers hiding under his motherâs mu â umu â u as a child while she played music. The flowery folds of Mihana Souzaâs dress draped over him, but he was still able to hear the sounds of the bass she cradled and the Hawaiian melodies she sang. Today NÄpali isnât sure if the memory is real or a dream, but the imagery is nevertheless telling of how his life turned out.
NÄpali, who is 36 years old, is enveloped in fashion as a cofounder of Salvage Public, a Hawaiianinspired clothing company based on O â ahu. Some of Salvage Publicâs designs draw from NÄpaliâs musical upbringing with Mihana, who is a member of Puamana, an all-female family trio. Mihana played the upright bass against her stomach when she was pregnant with NÄpali. Once he was born, NÄpali entered into what he jokingly calls âthe brown version of the Von Trapp family.â With the famous Hawaiian composer Irmgard Aluli as his grandmother and a handful of cousins and siblings who had also been taught to harmonize and dance hula, music is the core of his family.
When Mihana had late-night performances young NÄpali could not attend, he would wait patiently on the front steps for her to come home. Now, sitting in the backyard of this same Kailua home, NÄpali sings a lyric from a song by Auntie Irmgard that inspired an early Salvage Public T-shirt design. âPau ka hana, time to play,â he gently croons, and Mihana chimes in, finishing the lyric with her son.
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CREATION OF KAPA
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Through deep research and a passion for the practice, kapamakers continue to untangle, demystify, and reclaim the nearly forgotten artform of kapa.
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If you happen to encounter a piece of kapa (barkcloth), and you are wondering if itâs authentically Hawaiian, hold it up to the light. Examine it closely, at a slight angle, and behind its kaleidoscopic patterns and earthen colors a hidden texture should appear. This impression undulating across the fabric is a detailed watermark, and it is distinctive to Hawaiâiâs kapa tradition.
Iterations of kapa, also known as tapa elsewhere, can be found throughout the Pacificâs island societies. In Hawaiâi, this paper-thin textile, made by hand-pounding the inner bark of the mulberry tree, dressed chiefs and commoners for centuries. Around the oceanic region, kapa was donned for all sorts of occasions, utilized in ritual ceremonies, and provided comfort as pillows, blankets, and bedspreads. From checkerboard to zig-zags, the designs on kapa come in a dizzying range, drawing on motifs found in nature or possessing sacred meanings known only by the kapa-master who fashioned them.
Dalani Tanahy is one of these modern-day masters. There are a handful of kapamakers scattered across the islands, and of them, sheâs the only one who produces kapa full-time as a business enterprise. In 2007, when she started Kapa Hawaii, a self-run, one-woman atelier based on a dusty plot of land fronting her MÄkaha home, she had already spent more than 25 years studying and experimenting with the material. Before kapa practices were revitalized in the 1970s during the Hawaiian Renaissance, most notedly by late practitioner and kahuna Puanani Van Dorpe, kapa was considered a lost art. There were no direct lineal descendants of kapamakers left in Hawaiâi to draw on for direct knowledge, unlike those who maintained tapa legacies in Samoa, Tonga, and Fiji. But through recorded oral histories, archived materials, Bishop Museum collections, and trial and error, practitioners have revived the artform. Tanahy is a product of that renaissance. Today, kapamakers continue to pass down, untangle, demystify, and reclaim this nearly forgotten practice.
âKapamaking is so much more than people realize,â Tanahy says. âYou have to be a botanist, a carver, a graphic designer.â The fabric begins as a tall, spindly tree with scruffy leaves larger than the palm of someoneâs hand. The trunk is so thin, itâs incredible to think it could yield enough yards of
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Kapa, known as tapa elsewhere in Polynesia, are hand-printed with designs and techniques unique to its island cultures.
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From checkerboard to zig-zags, their amazing range of designs draw on motifs found in nature, while others possess unknown sacred meanings except to the kapa-master who fashioned them.
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At the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, its ethnology collection preserves ancient kapa piece.
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fabric to eventually drape across a personâs body. But, thatâs where the physical labor comes in, of a seated kapa practitioner hunched over a cut tree thatâs steadied on a flat stone and hand-pounded for hours upon hours.
On her MÄkaha acreage, Tanahy tends to a dense and towering grove of wauke she planted nearly a decade ago. Wauke, or the paper mulberry tree, was clearly treasured by the first waves of Hawaiâiâs settlers, who brought the plant with them in the hulls of their canoes. âTo understand kapa, you have to understand wood,â Tanahy says.
The ways of wood must also be considered for kapaâs central implement, the iâe kuku, which is a four-sided anvil carved of native wood that is robust enough to physically beat the bark into shape. Tanahy makes every iâe kuku herself, shaping them and then etching each side of the beater with grooved patterns that will ultimately become the watermark of her kapa works.
Appreciating a finished piece can be a cerebral affair. The various patterns, which she often makes with âohe kapala (bamboo stamps) and plant dyes, inspire questions about the significance and application of geometry and colors. Tanahyâs works have an unmatched vibrancy and range: On one end of her kapa portfolio are understated and
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The iâe kuku is a four-sided anvil traditionally carved of native woods.
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elegant all-white cloth pieces, while on the other are energetic kapa canvases with twisting patterns that resemble rollercoaster tracks. Her kapa are on display in diverse contemporary spaces, from hotels throughout Hawaiâi to art galleries to private collections abroad. She also perpetuates the art, consulting for hula hÄlau who want to dance in kapa during the Merrie Monarch Festival and occasionally holding educational workshops at the Honolulu Musuem of Art School.
Recently, Tanahy finished two kapa pieces for display at the bases of kahili markers flanked over Queen Kapiâolaniâs bedframe. She has also made kapa for funereal rites (Native Hawaiians would customarily wrap their loved onesâ bones in the barkcloth), which she considers a priceless honor. At work in the shade of her wauke trees, Tanahy uses techniques rooted in the same disciplined and repetitive motions women have been fine-tuning since they first set foot in the islands. She uses an âopihi shell to strip the bark. She colors a bamboo stamp with inks. She presses it with purpose against the weathered cloth. She leaves her mark.
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