VOLUME 14.2
Ulrich Krauer
General Manager Halekulani
As the world continues to evolve at a rapid pace, itâs important to take a step back and reflect on all that has taken place. This edition of Halekulani Living celebrates transformation, the past, and the process by which change occurs over time.
This issue, we delve into the history of boro , a traditional Japanese textile thatâs seeing a contemporary resurgence in Hawaiâi and beyond, and visit the studio of artist Mary Mitsuda, whose paintings explore ideas of change and the passing of time, conveying these themesâlight and dark, growth and erosion, order and chaosâthrough layered paint applications that have become a signature of her work.
We catch up with Islander Sake, Hawaiâiâs only sake brewery operation, at a transitional moment, and step inside the new headquarters of the Hawaiâi Hochi, the last remaining Japaneselanguage newspaper in the islands, to see how it continues to serve transplants from Japan as well as second-generation Japanese Americans looking for a lifeline to their native culture.
Our iconic poolside restaurant, House Without A Key, is well known as a gathering place for sunset cocktails, but few know the inspiration behind its unique name. Learn about the Earl Derr Biggers novel of the same name, written during the golden era of detective fashion and featuring the iconic fictional detective Charlie Chan.
We examine the oeuvre of the late architect Charles William Dickey, whose distinctive style of island-inspired architecture went on to influence other legendary local architects such as Hart Wood and Vladimir Ossipoff. Keep an eye out for his trademark âDickey roofsâ at Halekulani, restored in the image of the cottages he first designed for the hotel in 1926.
Lastly, meet sound therapist Michelle Pirret, whose practice involves guiding people on a journey of personal transformation through sound, employing soundwaves to promote relaxation, rejuvenation, and renewal. We hope that you enjoy this issue of Halekulani Living and are inspired to embark on your own journey of seeing the world around you, past and present, in new light.
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18 MASTHEAD Halekulani Living
ROYAL HAWAIIAN CENTER ALA MOANA CENTER 646 520 2830 FENDI.COM ROMA
The Hawaiâi Hochi is a lifeline connecting local Japanese to their native culture and community.
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Artist Mary Mitsuda revels in the juxtaposition of opposites.
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CULTURE 84
Reading the Air 96
Storied Past
WELLNESS 110 Of Sound Mind
ABOUT THE COVER:
Photographer Chris Rohrer frames a detail of a painting by Mary Mitsuda. Glimpse the artistâs freewheeling approach and see her in action on Living TV.
Halekulani Living
20
ARTS 28 Uncommon Threads 40 Artist at Play 54 Taking Shape CUISINE 74 To Your Health
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Practitioners of sound therapy employ gongs and other instruments to coax the mind into a state of wakeful relaxation.
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The late architect C. W. Dickeyâs signature âDickey roofsâ have come to be seen as a defining element of âHawaiianstyle architecture.â 110 54 ABOUT
THE COVER:
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Living TV is designed to complement the understated elegance enjoyed by Halekulani guests, with programming focused on the art of living well. Featuring cinematic imagery and a luxurious look and feel, Living TV connects guests with the arts, style, and people of Hawaiâi. To watch all programs, tune in to channel 2 or online at halekulaniliving.tv.
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UNCOMMON THREADS
watch online at: halekulaniliving.tv
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Modern-day boro enthusiasts perpetuate a legacy as heavily layered as the patchwork textile itself.
ARTIST AT PLAY
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Step inside the MÄnoa studio of artist Mary Mitsuda, whose approach thrives in the juxtaposition of opposites.
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TO YOUR HEALTH
Recognizing Hawaiâiâs long sake tradition, Islander Sake is committed to reestablishing sake as a favorite local drink.
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READING THE AIR
Visit the Hawaiâi Hochi, a Japanese-language newspaper founded in 1912 to be the voice of Japanese immigrants in the islands.
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OF SOUND MIND
For classically trained performer and jazz singer Michelle Pirret, sound is a natural way to communicate what canât be said with words.
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WHAT TO WATCH
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In breathing new life into the traditional Japanese craft of boro, modern-day makers perpetuate a legacy as heavily layered as the patchwork textile itself.
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The term boroboro has become a part of Hawaiâiâs local vernacular, referring to something worn out, cheap, or grungy.
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Pitacus Chop Art is a treasure trove for fabric fanatics on an ordinary weekâa sea of eccentric scraps of kantha, denim, and silk made into wearable works of art. But this is no ordinary week. This week, owner Lisa Wiemken is doing her once-a-year production of purses and bags, and the studio is even more inundated than usual. Itâs a massive undertaking that leaves her mentally exhausted and the studio buried under all manner of textiles from Africa, India, Japan, and beyond, the majority of them upcycled vintage. Wiemkenâs bags are highly sought after, completely unique, and mostly cut freehand to preserve the unique designs of every shred.
âI donât wanna waste the original piece of fabric. If you use patterns, you cut away so much,â she says. âSo every bag will be different in size and shape. Sometimes theyâre similar shapesâbut thereâs no pattern.â
This philosophy of letting the fabrics guide her work, whether itâs patching a hole here or stitching a seam there, results in a distinctive patchwork aesthetic thatâs become Wiemkenâs signature, one heavily inspired by traditional Japanese boro , meaning âtatteredâ or ârags.â Locals may hear a ring of the familiar in the name: boroboro is part of the island vernacular, referring to something worn out, cheap, or grungyânot exactly something youâd associate with the highest echelons of the global fashion industry, where boro has made appearances
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Halekulani Living 28
ARTS
Vintage fabric ready to be given new life by Lisa Wiemken, the designer behind Pitacus Chop Art in Kaimukī.
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in recent years. (Issey Miyake and Louis Vuitton are among the high-end brands that have released boro-inspired designs.)
Japanese denim brand Kapital has amassed a cult following for its elaborately patched and stitched jeans and jackets, remarkable examples of the sophisticated craftsmanship that has defined boro for centuries. For other contemporary brandsâlike eco-forward clothing company World of Crow, whose breezy cotton shirts feature borostyle patchworkâthe aesthetic represents an alternative to the throwaway culture of fast fashion. And for designers like Wiemken, who want their work to be wearable and lasting (Wiemken tells clients that, as long as sheâs living, they can come back for repairs), they are perpetuating a legacy as heavily layered as boro itself.
To understand how, one must go back to Japanâs Edo period. Not to the lavish wardrobes of the aristocracy, but to the uniforms of peasant farmers in the frigid north. The introduction
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Halekulani Living 32
ARTS
of cotton was a watershed moment for these communities, who wore clothing commonly made of rudimentary plant fibers. Warm, pliable, comfortable, and resilient, cotton was immediately in high demand, but it was also prohibitively expensive and rare. The cotton demand spawned a thriving rag trade in which merchants peddled scraps to peasants, who would in turn use these bits to create and reinforce garments. The cotton clothing was so precious, it would be re-patched over and over, reinforced with an intricate stitching technique known as sashiko to help prolong the garmentâs life for decades or even generations. After many life cycles, the garments were heavy, many layers thick, and entirely covered in rows of stitching. When the clothes were no longer usable, they were recycled into cleaning rags, mattress stuffing, or food coverings. And when even those pieces were no longer viable, the cloth would be stripped apart and rewoven once again, a practice called sakiori
âItâs incredible how not even the thread is wasted, even at the very end of the fabricâs life,â says Ann Asakura, co-founder of the Temari Center for Asian and Pacific Arts in Honolulu, as she walks me through the history of boro in Japan and weighs in on its modern-day resurgence. ââMottainaiâ [is] basically the precept that you throw nothing away. You donât waste anything: food, money, feelings, clothing.â
Boro, then, is about preservation and revivification, functionality and creativity, a reverence for the value of an object and an ability to see its potential as something other than what it is now. Like the concept of wabi-sabi , itâs about finding beauty in imperfection and ephemerality.
A week after our chat, Wiemken has finished this yearâs bag production, and the results are striking. One bag was crafted from deep-blue denim overlaid with a square of striped, fire-engine red fabric, a length of metallic floral silk peeking out from the bottom. Like the boro traditions of old, Wiemkenâs approach is always function firstâshe started sewing when she was young and low on funds, piecing together donated scraps when she couldnât afford yardageâbut the beauty of salvaged
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Halekulani Living ARTS 34
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An antique garment collected by Linda Ryan of Over the Blue Horizon, a maker and boro enthusiast based in Kailua.
Historically a utilitarian textile worn by Japanese peasant farmers, boro is seeing a modern-day resurgence.
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textiles is not lost on her. The people who dressed in those kimono or toiled in those cotton coats are long gone, but there are echoes of them still in the faded colors and worn edges of the garments they wore.
There are those who balk and think, âCut up a kimono? Sacrilege!â But Asakura disagrees. âWhat is worse? Leaving it in a tansu (storage chest), where it rots, where nobody sees it? Isnât it better, then, for this piece of history to be shared with all the family? Like a futon cover that Grandma made. Then everybody can have a part of itâor somebody can remake it.â Mottainai âwaste nothing.
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Halekulani Living 38 ARTS
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TEXT BY ERIC STINTON
IMAGES BY CHRIS ROHRER
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ARTIST AT PLAY
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Mary Mitsudaâs intuitive and freewheeling approach thrives in the juxtaposition of opposites.
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41
Living ARTS
Halekulani
Tucked into the back of PÄlolo Valley, Mary Mitsudaâs home studio feels like a part of the landscape. Sunlight falls through the studioâs skylights like sediment settling on a riverbed, and when winds whip through the valley, passing clouds interrupt the beams and change the lighting inside the studio from one moment to the next.
âI like to see how the paintings look in different lights,â Mitsuda says. A pair of unfinished paintings hang on the wall, and she goes over to tinker with them sporadically while she talks. Part of the studio space is devoted to displaying finished works by Mitsuda and her husband, fellow artist Jesse Christensen: totems constructed from discarded computer parts, paintings of ti leaves in various stages of decay, woodblock portraits of fishermen. But perhaps the most interesting piece in the studio is the shell of a xenophora, which Mitsuda presents with an earnest eagerness reminiscent of elementary school show and tell.
The xenophora is a deep-sea mollusk that moves across the seafloor, picking up small shells and stones and attaching them to its own shell as it grows. Atlas Obscura once declared the xenophora âthe worldâs most artistic mollusk,â a distinction that Mitsuda would likely appreciateâshe keeps the xenophora shell around as a visual representation of her own artistic journey. âI didnât plan to go into art,â Mitsuda says. âIt wasnât really a conscious decision. It sort of just emerged. This life absorbed me.â
Mitsuda didnât take any art classes while attending âAiea High School, and when she first enrolled at the University of Hawaiâi, she studied English. But her literature classmates displayed a self-seriousness that didnât gel with Mitsudaâs playful personality and freewheeling approach. She moved into an apartment near the campus with a friend from high school who was studying ceramics, and she quickly fell into a group of friends who were âliving in the lab,â Mitsuda recalls, âalways
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Halekulani Living 42 ARTS
Artist Mary Mitsuda initially studied English in college, but her literature classmates displayed a self-seriousness that didnât gel with her playful personality and freewheeling approach.
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43
or a wide brush, Mitsuda adds additional layers with plastic resin spreaders, a process she refers to as âsimplifyingâ the painting.
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working, but always having fun.â She started taking any and every art class available.
âEverything was pretty unconscious,â she says. âThatâs why I relate so much to the xenophora mollusk. Thereâs something about the process of how they live that makes you think they have choices, but how much of it is intuitive? I keep the shell as a reminder of how much of our lives, and maybe even our choices, are biological on some level.â
But honing the same craft decade after decade also involves conscious deliberation. Mitsuda relishes in such contradictions, calling her approach oblique but also direct. She says she prefers a minimalistic aesthetic out of laziness and pragmatism, then concedes that sheâs most moved by art that is vague, mysterious, and suggestive.
âEverything I say, I know the opposite is also true,â Mitsuda says. âWhen I say Iâm a lazy painter, thatâs as disingenuous as saying Iâm driven. Iâm just trying not to take myself so seriously because anything you do that youâre really interested in, you do take seriously. Maybe too seriously.â
Her oeuvre is an ongoing meditation on the coexistence of opposing concepts: transience and transition, light and dark, land and sea, life and death. But these tensions and dualities are not just themes in her work; they also extend to her process.
Mitsudaâs first act on a blank canvas is to create what she calls an âarbitrary background,â applying broad, sweeping washes of paint with her hands or wide brushes. From there, she adds layers on top of the initial strokes with plastic resin spreaders, a process she refers to as âsimplifyingâ the painting.
âWhen Iâm painting, Iâm doing it section by section,â Mitsuda says. âI donât want to look at it all at once. Giving something up is really a way of simplifying because you have to decide, is that gonna strengthen it? The whole subject becomes clearer because you donât have too much to fiddle around with. Keeping it simple is complicated enough.â
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Halekulani Living 48 ARTS
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Part of Mitsudaâs studio space is devoted to displaying works by her and her husband, fellow artist Jesse Christensen: totems constructed from discarded computer parts, paintings of ti leaves in various stages of decay, woodblock portraits of fishermen.
âI didnât plan to go into art,â Mitsuda says. âThis life absorbed me.â
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After 40 years of painting, the artist continues to be as playful on the canvas as she is focused, increasingly inspired by whatever she comes across in life, still stretching and expanding and growing artistically. âItâs becoming clearer what my interests are, what little mysteries keep pulling at me,â Mitsuda says. âIâm just moving along the ocean floor, picking things up and gluing them to my head.â
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Halekulani Living 50
ARTS
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Architect C. W. Dickey had only seen Hawaiâi as a kingdom and a territory, but he helped define how it would look as a state.
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The architectâs signature âDickey roofsâ combine wide, shallow-pitched eaves with a steep upper roof designed to suit Hawaiâiâs tropical climate.
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Go outside, look up. The roofs above Halekulani slope almost horizontally into wide eaves before abruptly steepening to a ridge. Next, look around: These hipped roofs with their gentle then steep angles can be found on scores of other buildings in Hawaiâi. Known as a âDickey roof,â the design is so ubiquitous that it has come to be seen as a defining element of âHawaiianstyle architecture,â and the architect who popularized it, Charles William Dickey, is often exalted as a founding father of building design characterized by a âHawaiian sense of place.â In Honolulu, Dickey shaped the trappings of authorityâgovernment buildings, churches, schoolsâattempting to blend âEast and Westâ as he saw them meet in Hawaiâi. But the style that Dickey created was not so much Hawaiian as it
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Halekulani Living 54
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Dickey and his associate, Hart Wood, were among the architects selected to design Honolulu Hale, parts of which were modeled after the Bargello in Florence, Italy.
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Honolulu Haleâs ornate inner courtyard is replete with loggias and cast-bronze sconces and chandeliers.
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Dickeyâs homecoming in 1926 cemented his influence on Hawaiâiâs architecture.
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was a byproduct of Hawaiâiâs history and changing society in the early 20th century, well before the territory became a state.
In 1926, Dickey designed a handful of buildings featuring some of the first of his signature roofs: a house for himself in WaikÄ«kÄ« and several bungalow cottagesâsince demolishedâfor Halekulani.
âI believe that I have achieved a distinctive Hawaiian type of architecture,â Dickey declared in the Honolulu Advertiser that year. âThe cottages seem to fit the landscape. They are simply designed, gathering character from the roof.â
Reportedly his inspiration came from Hawaiian grass hale (houses), although, as an architectural competitor noted, such houses had convex roofs, while Dickeyâs were concave. Others credit the design to Kamehameha Vâs house in WaikÄ«kÄ«, or to the Waioli Mission Hall that Dickeyâs missionary grandfather built on Kauaâi. Either way, thanks to Dickeyâs prolific output, the design became one of his trademarks, and onlookers
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Halekulani Living 58 ARTS
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One of Dickeyâs most notable commissions was the corporate headquarters of Alexander & Baldwin, designed in partnership with architect Hart Wood.
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Thanks to their prolific output during the islandsâ territorial period, Dickey and Wood are among the architects most associated with Hawaiâiâs golden age of architecture.
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began to regard the omnipresent roof as inherently Hawaiian. Perhaps itâs more accurate to say that Dickeyâa balding man with a cleft chin and circular spectaclesâwas simply designing buildings amenable to newcomers to Hawaiâiâs environment: Wide eaves protect open windows from rain, a high peak insulates against the heat.
Some of his buildingsâthe Harkness Building at Queenâs Medical Center on Oâahu, for exampleâ appear distinctly not Hawaiian, instead drawing apparently from Californiaâs Spanish Mission style with its arched loggias, pale stucco walls, and terracotta roofing. This injection of a California aesthetic into Honoluluâs built environment could be one example of what architectural historian Kelema Lee Moses argued was an effort by architects and their patrons to make the city âlegible to the American public as a conceptual extension of California.â
Charles William Dickey was born in 1871 in Alameda, California, across the bay from San Francisco. His father, Charles Henry Dickey, fought in the Civil War, and his father before him was a friend of Abraham Lincoln. His mother, Ann Elizabeth Alexander, was the daughter of the American missionary William P. Alexander, and her siblings formed Hawaiâiâs plantation elite: Her brother, Samuel, co-founded the Alexander & Baldwin sugar company, and sister Emily married his business partner, Henry Baldwin. (Dickeyâs sister, Belle, would later marry James Drummond Dole, of pineapple notoriety.)
Trips across the Pacific, from America to a Hawaiâi in flux, punctuated Dickeyâs life. When Dickey was two years old and Hawaiâi was still a kingdom, his family moved to Maui. His father ran a plantation store and prospered over the next two decades: He brought the telegraph and telephone to Hawaiâi; led telegraph, railroad, pineapple, and sugar companies; and served in the Hawaiâi legislature. Meanwhile, the younger Dickey went away for high school in Oakland, California, then studied architecture at the Massachusetts Institute
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of Technology. He graduated in 1894, a year after a group of businessmen from his familyâs social milieu overthrew Queen Liliâuokalani in a coup dâétat.
The overthrow led to a new republic dominated by white businessmen. The new rulersâ embryonic proto-state needed buildingâand so did Dickeyâs sense of style. Despite later becoming known for airy lanais and courtyards, his early works, like Pauahi Hall at Punahou School and the Bishop Estate Building, look none too breezy. Instead, they are hewn from knobby slabs of rock, hefty as a hall from an East Coast university. Dickey then changed directions, introducing elements from the Italian RenaissanceâTuscan columns, floral panels on the façadeâinto designs such as the Stangenwald Building, which still stands in downtown Honolulu.
After a decade in Hawaiâi, Dickey moved back to Oakland, where he ran an architecture firm for the next 20 years. He continued to design projects in Hawaiâi, and as the First World War drew to an end, he grew anxious to return. As he found more work in Honolulu, he made the lengthy commute more often and partnered with the architect Hart Wood to run the Honolulu office. The pair won the commission for the corporate headquarters of Alexander & Baldwinâhis uncle and uncle-in-law were, after all, the companyâs founders. Attracted by the new opportunity and repulsed by a dispute with Oakland school authorities, Dickey returned to Honolulu for good.
It was Dickeyâs homecoming in 1926 that ultimately cemented his influence on Hawaiâiâs architecture. He employed a young Vladimir Ossipoff, who was new to the city and who would go on to become a local legend renowned for bringing tropical modernism to the islands. Dickeyâs associate, Hart Wood, would also rise to prominence in his own right.
Dickey and Wood ultimately parted ways due to design disagreements over the Alexander & Baldwin project. Still, it was among the duoâs most notable designs, lauded for its take on a regional style of architecture. When it was constructed in 1929, Dickey reported that they had sought âto produce a building suitable to the climate, environment, history, and geographical position of Hawaiâi.â
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Halekulani Living 66 ARTS
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Dickey designed the Stangenwald Building with Tuscan columns and floral panels in the Renaissance Revival style.
Shortly after relocating to Hawaiâi, Dickey designed an expansion for the Hawaiâi State Library, adding two new wings to form an open-air courtyard in the center.
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The imposing structure features subtle ornamentation inspired by the sugar companyâs Chinese laborers but builds on an essentially Western form, standing as a paragon of âHawaiianstyle architectureâ through the same inexplicable alchemy that imbued Dickeyâs famed roofs with their distinctive sense of place. Though the architect had only seen Hawaiâi as a kingdom and a territory, he shaped how it would look as a state: a place where winds of change that swept through the islands a century ago still linger in its colonial forms and Mediterranean façades, in its wide eaves and high peaks.
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Tile work on the Alexander & Baldwin building is a subtle homage to the former sugar companyâs island setting and early Chinese laborers.
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The Park Ward Village Residence 03 Living Room
IMAGE BY LAURA LA MONACA
CUISINE
TEXT BY RAE SOJOT
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TO YOUR HEALTH
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Behind master brewer Chiaki Takahashiâs desire to spark a sake revival in Hawai â i is another, more personal intentionâto bring people together.
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75
Living CUISINE
Halekulani
While enjoying a nightcap, Islander
master Chiaki
realized she could parlay her expertise in science into an entirely new discipline: sake brewing.
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Chiaki Takahashi grew up in the quiet alcoves of a temple in Tokyo, where her father, a Buddhist priest, attended to those who gathered there. On some occasions, Takahashiâs father would shoo her away, but still she would peer out of the back room with curious eyes. Watching her father provide comfort and guidance to the distressed stirred something within.
Now in her 50s, Takahashi still thinks of those childhood moments that shaped her. She realizes she is like her fatherâinstilled with an innate desire to help others find paths to well-being.
Initially, Takahashi fulfilled this desire as a medical researcher for stress-induced disease. It was undoubtedly important work, but over time, Takahashi began to feel increasingly less invested in it. After a particularly long, arduous day, a moment of clarity arrived. While enjoying a nightcap, Takahashi realized she could parlay her expertise in scienceâhoned from years of experiments, data crunching, and clinical trialsâinto an entirely new discipline: sake brewing.
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Halekulani Living 76
CUISINE
Sake brew
Takahashi
Come discover everything at your fingertips in one dynamic neighborhood.
Shop one-of-a-kind finds, indulge in globally inspired cuisine, relax with a picnic in the park â itâs all here, waiting for you. Only in Honolulu, only at Ward Village.
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Today, Takahashi runs Islander Sake, Hawaiâiâs only sake brewery, which officially opened in the spring of 2020âmore than 30 years since Oâahuâs last sake brewing company, Honolulu Sake Brewery, closed its doors after nearly 80 years in business. Recognizing Hawaiâiâs long sake tradition and the deep cultural ties Hawaiâi and Japan share, Takahashi is committed to reestablishing sake as a favorite local drink.
Sake brewing is relatively simple, she explains through an interpreter. Its formulation requires only a handful of ingredients: rice, koji, yeast, and water. And while many consider sakeâs fermentation process akin to laboratory work with its strict emphasis on temperatures, measurements, and monitoring, Takahashi and her business partner, Tama Hirose, are quick to bring up more abstract factors like the local culture.
Sake making involves living organismsâkoji and yeastâand like all living things, they are susceptible to influence from their environment. âPeople here in Hawaiâi are relaxed,â Hirose says. âSo maybe microorganisms are relaxed.â Takahashi nods in agreement. She fell in love with Hawaiâi when she first visited in her early 20s, drawn to the beauty, people, and easy pace of life in the islands.
Whether due to Takahashiâs scientific precision or the aloha spirit that invariably works its way into each bottle, Islander Sakeâs growing fanbase is testimony that something is working. The companyâs portfolio of junmai ginjo, junmai daiginjo, and islandinspired sakes flavored with tropical fruits, such as pineapple and lilikoi, have proven to be crowd pleasers. But behind Takahashiâs desire to spark a sake revival in Hawaiâi and beyond is another, more personal intentionâto bring people together.
Despite recently moving its brewery operations from Kakaâako to Hawaiâi Island to meet the companyâs growing production needs, Hirose and Takahashi have no plans to abandon their community on Oâahu. In the breweryâs stead, the partners debuted Hanale, an omakase-style restaurant, in February 2022. âHanale means âannexâ in Japanese,â Hirose explains, referencing an informal gathering area for guests outside oneâs home. âLike a small space to relax with friends.â
At a recent dinner seating, the air is convivial as Hirose warmly welcomes guests entering Hanale from the streets of Honoluluâs Chinatown. Behind
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Halekulani Living 78
CUISINE
Recognizing Hawaiâiâs long sake tradition and the deep cultural ties Hawaiâi and Japan share, Takahashi is committed to reestablishing sake as a favorite local drink.
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The menu at Hanale by Islander Sake is a nod to Japanese minimalism, allowing flavors to shine in their most pared-back form.
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the L-shaped counter, chef Hirokazu Ogame is deeply immersed in preparations for the nightâs service. A visual symphony of courses soon follows, each dish an overture to the next. The food is exquisite in its simplicity: sheer slices of saba nestled upon paper-thin ribbons of cucumber, bloom-shaped portions of hamo on shiso leaf, intricately carved ika, richly marbled otoru. All are a nod to Japanese minimalism, Takahashi explains, allowing flavors to shine in their most pared-back form. Paired with the sake, each dish soars anew.
The evening progresses. Peeking through a noren curtain, Takahashi observes her guests. Some are laughing and clinking their glasses together, extending their conversations to the tables around them. Others sit in silent contentment, bellies full. Thousands of miles away from her homeland, and worlds away from her previous work in medical research, Takahashi smiles at the group gathered before her. Here, medicine is no match for the healing powers of happiness.
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Halekulani Living 80
CUISINE
SINGLE ORIGIN, 55% DARK CHOCOLATE
100% PURE HAWAIIAN CACAO
The subtle scent of tropical fruit transports you to Oâahuâs North Shore. Timeless hints of banana, pineapple, and lilikoâi crafted with 100% pure cacao create a rich treat
PURE
BY JOHN HOOK
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IMAGES BY JOHN HOOK & COURTESY OF THE HAWAIâI HOCHI
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Founded in 1912 to be the voice of Japanese immigrants in the islands, the Hawaiâi Hochi continues to be a lifeline connecting local Japanese readers to their native culture and community.
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84
Living CULTURE
Halekulani
The new headquarters of the Hawaiâi Hochi strikes me as distinctly Japanese: the acute angles of the exterior, the spotless glass doors and floors inside, everything in its right place. Itâs as if a Tokyo newsroom was airdropped into an industrial part of Kalihi near the airport, under the shadow of the freeway and the Honolulu rail. All of the staff at Hawaiâiâs only Japanese-language weekday newspaper are hard at work, and itâs quiet enough to hear the hum of the central air conditioning.
On the day of my visit, the Hawaiâi Hochi is covering the summerâs local bon dance celebrations, Tokyoâs Covid-19 numbers, and primary elections across the state. Politics, both in Hawaiâi and in Japan, are the paperâs forte. The Hawaiâi Hochiâs editor, Noriyoshi Kanaizumi, is in the middle of his workday, which begins at 4 a.m. and ends around 4 p.m. He works until midday on a shared document, converts it to a PDF, and walks a thumb drive down the hall to a desktop computer that sits between two steel rows of printers. The paper is printed in 15 minutes and then sent off to a distribution center on the west side of the island in time for the next dayâs delivery.
The Hawaiâi Hochi is distributed to some 2,500 recipients, mostly on Oâahu, and draws about as many readers online. âWeâre a link between an older generation and a younger one,â says Grant Murata, the paperâs advertising and promotions manager, who explains that many of the Hawaiâi Hochiâs older readers grew up with the paper. Newer readers tend to be recent immigrants from Japan.
But like many newspapers, subscriptions are dwindling. âOur readership is declining in part because people pass away,â says president Taro Yoshida, who has the unenviable task of keeping the evolving business model of the daily paper profitable in the 21st century. âBut for now, we have no plan to wrap up our paper copies. Our die-hard readers ⊠have to get a hard copy in the mail.â
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Halekulani Living 86 CULTURE
âWe have âfake newsâ in Japan too,â says Grant Murata, the Hawaiâi Hochiâs advertising and promotions manager. âItâs our job to dig a little.â
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87
When the Hawaiâi Hochiâs founder, Fred Makino, passed away in 1953, the Japanese community he reported on had become a powerful ethnic group in the islands.
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The paper is divided into three sections: Hawaiâi news reported in Japanese, Japanese news reported in Japanese, and Japanese news reported in English. âLocal news always first,â Kanaizumi says.
A recent event at the Japanese Cultural Center of Hawaiâi honored the paperâs first editor, Fred Kinzaburo Makino, who helped build a community around the local Japanese experience at the turn of the last century. Born the son of a Japanese mother and English trader in 1877 in Yokohama, Japan, he was fluent in both Japanese and English. He emigrated in 1899 and, after working in the plantations, opened Makino Drug Store in 1901. He founded the Zokyu Kisei Kai, or the Higher Wage Association, with his brother and other community members, including Yasutaro Soga, editor of the Nippu Jiji, then the largest Japanese-language newspaper in the islands. They were imprisoned in 1909 for their activities in labor organizing.
Founded to be the voice of Japanese workers in Hawaiâi, the Hawaiâi Hochi began publication in 1912,
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Halekulani Living 88 CULTURE
The paper is divided into three sections: Hawaiâi news reported in Japanese, Japanese news reported in Japanese, and Japanese news reported in English. âLocal news always first,â editor Noriyoshi Kanaizumi says.
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The paperâs former headquarters was designed by Pritzker Prize winner Kenzo Tange, his only completed building in the U.S.
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covering Japanese language in schools, the fight for citizenship, labor disputes, and sensational stories like the Massie case of 1932. During World War II, when the military government shuttered many local Japanese-language newspapers, the Hawaiâi Hochi persevered despite heavy censorship. It was a pivotal era for Japanese in Hawaiâi, who organized around racial discrimination, formed labor movements on sugar plantations, fought valiantly in the war, and entered professional life. The paper reported on it all. When Makino passed away in 1953, the community he reported on had become a powerful ethnic group in the islands.
The editors open a steel file cabinet and pull out a book containing news articles published by the Hawaiâi Hochi in the summer of 1978. The average annual income of a local resident was a little over $10,000. The conversion of the yen to the dollar was 201 to 1. Gas prices were high. A primary election campaign was underway across the islands. July 5 saw the beginning of the Hawaiâi State Constitutional Convention, which enshrined in law many of the fiery issues of Indigenous advocacy, multi-ethnic democracy, and environmental protection advocated by the local Japanese community and the Hawaiian Renaissance.
Despite many Japanese Americans attaining success in the islands, however, the community still dealt with the legal discrimination of the past. Throughout the 1980s, the paper covered the oral histories of aging Japanese Americans who were interred during the war, which helped to fuel reparation efforts by the U.S. government as well as the establishment of a national monument at Honouliuli, where Japanese were imprisoned from 1943 to 1946.
Through it all, the paper is careful to maintain journalistic objectivity. âJapanese Americans and Japanese nationals often donât see eye to eye on issues,â Kanaizumi says. Whereas Japanese American readers might interpret a Japanese officialâs vague remarksâor refusal to answer a questionâas obfuscation, Japanese nationals are more likely to perceive them as an attempt to avoid incendiary comments or offense. Murata attributes
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Halekulani Living 92
CULTURE
Hawaiâiâs only Japaneselanguage weekday newspaper also serves as a printing facility for other local periodicals, including the Filipino Chronicle, China Daily, and Hawaii Fishing News.
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this to the Japanese tendency toward aimai, or ambiguity. âWe have to be neutral in our reporting,â he says, âand that takes time.â
A single dayâs news takes approximately 60 hours to edit, and thereâs as much to do in the translation of a paper as there is in the original reporting. The editors stress the importance of ba no kuuki wo yomu, or âreading the air,â a custom prevalent in Japanese culture that involves being attentive to the feelings and needs of those around you. âFor our readers, this paper is a lifeline to their community, both here and in Japan,â Yoshida says. âThere are many Japanese tourists who come to visit and want to know more about Hawaiâi by reading the paper. But most of our readers are living here, making Hawaiâi home while staying Japanese. That sense of prideâitâs the language that keeps people together.â
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Halekulani Living 94 CULTURE
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At House Without A Key, inspired by Earl Derr Biggersâ novel of the same name, a writer basks in nostalgia for what once was.
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The title of Earl Derr Biggersâ mystery novel was inspired by the hotel he stayed in, Grayâs-ByThe-Sea, where guests werenât given keys because, apparently, no one locked their doors in WaikÄ«kÄ«.
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âThatâs how the murder happens,â says Hiâinani Blakesley, cultural advisor at Halekulani, as we stand in front of the hotel, facing Kawehewehe channel. It is the same channel that Kamehameha the Great sailed through in 1795 to land his troops on Oâahu in his mission to unite the islands, Blakesley tells me. It is a clear, wide channel of sand through WaikÄ«kÄ«âs reef, stretching all the way to the breakpoint, where today we can see surfers waiting for waves at Pops. This is the channel that (spoiler alert) enables the murder in Earl Derr Biggersâ The House Without a Key.
In 1919, Biggers stayed at the hotel Grayâs-ByThe-Sea, which stood near where we are now, and where the idea of the novel came to him. Many
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Halekulani Living 96
CULTURE
Not long after Biggersâ visit to Hawaiâi, Halekulani acquired Sheriff Arthur Brownâs home, the present-day site of House Without A Key.
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people know that Halekulaniâs bar and restaurant House Without A Key was named after the novel, but few realize the storyâs title itself was inspired by the hotel he stayed in, previously J.A. Gilmanâs home, an actual house without a keyâand so the name comes full circle.
Despite loving Raymond Chandlerâs detective novels of the same era, I had never read The House Without a Key until now. Part of it might have been the idea of a Chinese detective written by a white person in the â20sâI pictured something like the ridiculous bucktoothed Mickey Rooney playing Mr. Yunioshi in the movie Breakfast at Tiffanyâs. But when I picked it up recently, I was captivated. Sure, there are cringe-inducing moments, particularly in detective Charlie Chanâs stilted speech, but Chan is also often depicted as the most observant and smartest person in the roomâparticularly astonishing in the time of the Chinese Exclusion Act. It turns out, Biggers was inspired by a real-life Chinese police detective in Honolulu at the time,
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Living 98 CULTURE
Halekulani
99
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A character in The House Without a Key smokes under Halekulaniâs iconic kiawe tree every night.
CULTURE
Biggersâ Charlie Chan was inspired by a reallife detective living in Honolulu at the time, Chang Apana.
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Chang Apana, who stood at 5 foot 3 and carried only a bullwhip. The stories about him are legendary: the time he rounded up 40 gamblers single-handedly, the time he was thrown from a second-story window and landed on his feet, the time he had been run over by a horse and buggy.
Charlie Chan launched Biggersâ fame, spawning six books and more than four dozen movies centered on the detective, but itâs the quieter moments of the book that really draw me in, the snapshot of Hawaiâi in the 1920s. Among many depictions of the era, Biggers describes a trolley that âswept over the low swampy land between Waikiki and Honolulu, past rice fields where bent figures toiled patiently in water to their knees, past taro patches, and finally turned on to King Street ⊠[past] a Japanese theater flaunting weird posters not far from a Ford service station, then a building he recognized as the palace of the monarchy.â To read the book is to see what Biggers saw almost a century ago in Honolulu, to realize what is gone, and recognize what remains.
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Halekulani Living 100
To read The House Without a Key is to see what Biggers saw almost a century ago in Honolulu, to realize what is gone, and to recognize what remains.
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Thereâs the kiawe tree under which a character smokes every night, the tree which fell in 2016, but still standsâand growsâin front of House Without A Key with the same resiliency that has enabled it to live since 1887. There is also, by the small, sandy beach fronting the hotel, Halekulaniâs oldest hau tree, which even a hundred years ago was âseemingly as old as time itself,â wrote Biggers in The House Without a Key
But what is really as old as time itself: nostalgia. Even in the 1920s in Hawaiâi, Biggersâ characters long for what once was. ââThe âeighties,â [Winterslip] sighed. âHawaii was Hawaii then. Unspoiled a land of opera bouffe, with old Kalakaua sitting on his golden throne.â ⊠âItâs been ruined,â he complained sadly. âToo much aping of the mainland. Too much of your damned mechanical civilizationâautomobiles, phonographs, radiosâbah! And yetâand yet, Minervaâaway down underneath there are deep dark waters flowing still.ââ
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Halekulani Living 102 CULTURE
The character Charlie Chan launched Biggersâ fame, spawning six books and more than four dozen movies centered on the fictional detective.
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Not long after Biggersâ visit to Hawaiâi, Halekulani acquired Sheriff Arthur Brownâs home, the present-day site of House Without A Key. The hotel where Biggers stayed, Grays-By-The-Sea, closed, and Halekulani bought that too. WaikÄ«kÄ« was already rapidly changing in the â20s, and as I idle at House Without A Key at sunsetâthe time that Biggers likely loved best in WaikÄ«kÄ«, based on his descriptionsâI see more people, more buildings, more âmechanical civilizationâ than Biggers did during his stay. And yet, just as the deep, dark waters still flow in the springs under Halekulani, it is hard not to be swept into the age-old spell of WaikÄ«kÄ« while facing the ocean and listening to the De Lima âOhana sing Queen Liliâuokalaniâs âAloha âOeâââthe most melancholy song of good-by,â Biggers declares in The House Without a Key âand to know that someday, despite grumbling about how much life has changed, we will remember these days by the kiawe tree, right now, with fondness.
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Halekulani Living 106 CULTURE
DISCOVER THE REAL HAWAIâI Engage in Exhibits & Programs | Explore Living Culture | Experience Natural Science bishopmuseum.org Open Daily 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Closed Thanksgiving & Christmas Day 1525 Bernice St., Honolulu, HI 96817 808.847.3511
IMAGE BY LILA LEE
WELLNESS
TEXT BY KATHLEEN WONG
IMAGES BY JOHN HOOK, LILA LEE, & BRAD GODA
COURTESY OF THE HAWAIâI SYMPHONY
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Sound therapy has origins in the East, but it has become increasingly popular in the West as a means for grounding oneself in an increasingly fast-paced world.
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OF SOUND MIND
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For classically trained performer and jazz singer Michelle Pirret, sound is a natural way to communicate what canât be said with words.
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Iâm lying on a chaise lounge with my eyes closed, and the sound of a gong is echoing in my ears. The intermittent vibrations are startling at first, then they become more and more rhythmic. Over the next two hours, musician Michelle Pirret walks lightly between the chaises on the Garden Terrace of Halekulani, creating sounds using an array of items that she refers to as her âbandââsinging bowls made of quartz, eucalyptus leaves, a bowl of water. Pirret is taking me on a âsonic leap.â
This is the name Pirret has given to her method of sound therapy, a type of meditation designed to lead people into deep relaxation and expand their consciousness. Sound therapy has origins in the East, but it has become increasingly popular in the West as a means for grounding oneself in an increasingly fast-paced world. The different instruments wrap you in a âcocoon of sound,â Pirret says, so that you âlose your feeling of time and space.â Each session is different, as is each personâs experience.
The theory behind sound therapy is that sound waves within a certain range of hertz, like the vibrations of a gong, can coax your brain into a state of wakeful relaxation known as the alpha state. A small study from 2017 found that people who experienced Tibetan singing bowl meditation reported feeling less tension, depression, and anger. âUtilizing vibration and frequency allows sound to move through the body and move stagnant energy,â Pirret says. âYou will find that you will be able to leap over what is impairing you in life.â
Pirret stumbled upon sound therapy about 20 years ago, when her mother developed early-onset Alzheimerâs at age 50. Seeking ways to cope with the
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Halekulani Living 110
WELLNESS
After discovering sound therapy 20 years ago, musician Michelle Pirret dedicated herself to studying the practice.
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distress of witnessing a parentâs health decline, Pirret signed up for a sound therapy session in New York and felt moved by the experience.
âThat was a turning point for me,â she says. She dedicated herself to studying the practice, traveling to study under influential practitioners in Switzerland and Poland.
Sound therapy became a way for her to communicate with her mother, who lost the ability to speak. She has since facilitated sessions all over the world, from New Mexico to New York to Hawaiâi.
By a twist of fate, Pirret has been a part-time resident of Hawaiâi since February 2020. She had flown to Hawaiâi Island for a musical collaboration with jazz artist Bobby McFerrin and was planning to leave for an artist residency in the West Indies when the pandemic hit and shut down travel. She stayed for nine months before moving to Oâahu and now splits her time between Hawaiâi and New York. Ahead, she shares some of her go-to destinations for creative inspiration on the south shore of Oâahu.
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Halekulani Living 112 WELLNESS
The different instruments wrap you in a âcocoon of sound,â Pirret says, so that you âlose your feeling of time and space.â
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113
Pirret is enamored with Shangri La, the former estate of philanthropist and tobacco heiress Doris Duke.
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Shangri La Museum of Islamic Art, Culture & Design
With its stunning Islamic artworks and equally stunning views of the ocean, Shangri La has enchanted Pirret since her first visit in 2021, when local artist Kamran Samimi was exhibiting Sanctuaries, a series of sculptures he created during his artist residency at the museum the year prior. His work alluded to elements of nature and a spiritual journey in a way that resonated with Pirretâs work in sound therapy. Since then, itâs been âmy secret dream to do a concert there,â she says.
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Halekulani Living 114 WELLNESS
The only museum in the U.S. dedicated exclusively to Islamic art, Shangri
is filled with treasures from Doris Dukeâs travels through North Africa and Western, Central, South, and Southeast Asia.
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The seaside amphitheater has hosted high-profile performers such as Frank Sinatra and Jimi Hendrix.
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Waikīkī Shell
Oriented around a seashell-shaped dome designed by the late American architect Lewis P. Hobart, the WaikÄ«kÄ« Shell at Kapiâolani Park has been Honoluluâs premier outdoor music venue since 1956. It was on the Shellâs sprawling lawn amid views of nearby Diamond Head that Pirret saw the Honolulu Symphony Orchestra perform, and itâs where she returns for âpure, live music outdoors.â
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Halekulani Living 116 WELLNESS
More Chefs. More Flavors.
Delight in globally-inspired culinary flavors at International Market Place, home to WaikÄ«kÄ«âs largest collection of restaurants. With extraordinary eateries from award-winning chefs like Michael Mina and Roy Yamaguchi, the next chapter in your culinary journey is just around the corner. Find the finest poke, indulge in sizzling cuts of premium steak, enjoy line-caught seafood, savor down home barbecue, pick the perfect pizza and do it all in the heart of WaikÄ«kÄ«. Bring your appetite and let your culinary story unfold.
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/ IntlMktPlace | /@ IntlMktPlace | /International Market Place | ShopInternationalMarketPlace.com
Kala¯kaua Avenue
Lewers Lounge was named after Halekulaniâs original owner, Robert Lewers, who opened the hotel in 1907 as a beachfront home with five guest bungalows.
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Lewers Lounge
A cozy cocktail lounge tucked inside Halekulani, Lewers Lounge is a tribute to all things jazz. âItâs my taste of New York in HawaiâiâI feel so at home there listening to Tommy James play. I feel like Iâm at Carlyle,â Pirret says, referencing the opulent cabaret at New York Cityâs famed Carlyle Hotel, known for serving as a hideaway for royalty, celebrities, and politicians and for drawing legendary performers such as Bobby Short, Judy Collins, and Eartha Kitt. With its low-lighting and intimate, upscale aesthetic, the room bursts with a sophisticated energy that Pirret canât get enough of.
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Halekulani Living 118 WELLNESS
Cultivating creativity, wonder, and deeper connections to the world we share.
EXTENDED EVENING HOURS FRI & SAT 4-9PM
Halekulani, the most internationally acclaimed of all Hawaiâi hotels, blends serenity and understated elegance with exceptional service to create an oasis of tranquility.
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120
HALEKULANI GUIDE
LEGACY
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Halekulaniâs beachfront location has welcomed people since 1883, when the original owner, Robert Lewers, built a two-story house on the site of what is now the main building.
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The fishermen of the area would bring their canoes onto the beach in front of the property to rest. So welcomed were they by the Lewers family that the locals named the location âhouse befitting heaven,â or Halekulani.
In 1917, Juliet and Clifford Kimball purchased the hotel, expanded it, and established it as a stylish resort for vacationers, giving it the name the locals originally bestowed on it, Halekulani. The hotel was sold following the passing of the Kimballs in 1962. Almost 20 years later, it was purchased by what is now the Honolulu-based Halekulani Corporation. The hotel was closed and rebuilt as the existing 453-room property.
Today, Halekulaniâs staff, location, and hospitality reflect the original Hawaiian welcome that defined the property.
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HALEKULANI GUIDE 122
DINING
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At Halekulaniâs WaikÄ«kÄ« restaurants, award-winning chefs create signature dishes from Hawaiâiâs freshest ingredients.
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Each of Halekulaniâs restaurants celebrates its own distinct style of cuisine, and all offer stunning views of the sea.
Select from La Mer for fine dining, Orchids for more casual elegance, and House Without A Key for a relaxed ambience.
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124 HALEKULANI GUIDE
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THE ART OF WELLBEING ã¢ãŒãã»ãªãã»ãŠã§ã«ããŒã€ã³ã°
The Art of Wellbeing is Halekulaniâs new wellness concept representing an evolution of our acclaimed spa program, designed to expand intellect, incite wonder, and tap into emotions necessary for wellbeing.
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Encompassing our dedication to and deep respect for tradition, legacy, and the culture of Hawaiâi, this program is a collection of curated experiences that offer an integrated and refreshed approach to an elevated lifestyle, combining six key pillars: nourish, move, explore, renew, rest, and discover.
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126 HALEKULANI GUIDE
HALEKULANI FINE ARTS COLLECTION
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For an elevated art experience, explore a curated selection of works from local art legends and rising contemporary artists throughout the hotel.
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