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Photographer Takuma Chida captures board shaper Toshiyuki Nakamura before a surf session.
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Turn a moment of fate into a lifetime of purpose.
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Dancer Kanoe Miller believes itâs the small, subtle movements that give hula its meaning.
This cyanotype by photographer Karola Mech depicts the tall buttress roots of the Sakishima-suÅnoki tree.
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Living Okinawa TV is produced to complement the Halekulani Okinawa experience, with videos that focus on the art of living well. Featuring cinematic imagery and compelling storytelling, Living Okinawa TV connects guests with the arts, culture, and people of Okinawa and Hawaiâi. All programs can be viewed on the guest room TV and online at living.okinawa.halekulani.com.
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A Waikīkī hula dancer crosses the Pacific to perform at House Without A Key in Okinawa.
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Meet a third-generation senshoku artisan who overcame obstacles to keep his family legacy alive.
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Explore the eateries that bring delicious Okinawan fare to the Hawaiian island of Oâahu.
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Following her move to Hawaiâi, a woman journeys into the life-changing world of chado.
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A third-generation senshoku artisan upholds a family legacy of honoring the past while creating anew.
Okikazu Maeshiro is stationed at a loom in his familyâs atelier in Motobu, a district overlooking the East China Sea on the western coast of Okinawaâs main island. The regionâs notably humid climate is favored by the indigo plants used in RyÅ«kyÅ«-ai dyeing, and Motobu, dotted with fields where these species thrive, is Okinawaâs indigo heartland.
With a deft precision honed over his years of devotion to the art of kasuri weaving, Maeshiro finesses the threads that he has painstakingly colored with Ryūkyū-ai indigo through resist-dyeing, a technique that leaves adjacent sections uncolored.
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Through the power of fermentation, Ryūkyū indigo produces a vibrant shade of blue dye.
Passing these threads through the manually operated loom, patterns emerge in the resulting cloth: stripes, geometric shapes, and motifs inspired by the natural world. Together they are a paean to the blue seas and skies around Okinawa.
Maeshiroâs family ties to the craft run deepâ post-World War II, his paternal grandfather, KÅsei Maeshiro, was an important figure in the revival of RyÅ«kyÅ« indigo dyeing and kasuri weaving, together known as senshoku. In addition to honoring traditional RyÅ«kyÅ«an patterns, Maeshiroâs grandfather devised his own original designs, referring to them as âRyÅ«kyÅ« bigasuriâ to distinguish his creations from the kasuri weavings of others.
Yet the intricacies of the form were a mystery to Maeshiro as he was growing up. âFrom the moment I became aware of my surroundings, my father would be indigo dyeing while my mother was weaving,â he says. âBut as a child, I wasnât permitted to
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For Okikazu Maeshiro, indigo dyeing is about working in harmony with the rhythms of nature.
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Even after he became reliant on a wheelchair, Maeshiro was determined to carry on the family business.
enter the atelier due to the delicacy of the threads hanging there, so I didnât fully understand our householdâs work.â
It took travel far from home for Maeshiroâs imagination to be captured by the activity pursued under the familyâs roof. âI spent my university years living on the Chiba coast,â he says, recalling his time at Josai International University, east of Tokyo. âThere I became immersed in surfing both locally and all over the country, where I encountered aspects of nature, including the colors of sundown and the blue ocean. The blues of surfing and the blues of RyÅ«kyÅ«-ai came to overlap in my mind.â With the encouragement of his thesis advisorâa fellow native of OkinawaâMaeshiro nurtured his growing interest in his familyâs RyÅ«kyÅ« bigasuri practice, and following graduation he began working in the family atelier alongside his father, Okishige Maeshiro.
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Maeshiro had established himself as an independent artisan when, in 2011, at age 30, he developed a congenital spinal disease that left him reliant upon a wheelchair for mobility. Forced to step away from dyeing and weaving work, he focused on developing a brand named âBigasuri,â which combines RyÅ«kyÅ« bigasuri and leather, with the aim of introducing Okinawaâs kasuri culture to new audiences.
But Maeshiroâs desire to get back to senshoku never waned. Eventually, after six long years, he enlisted a woodworker to build a loom that he could operate from his wheelchair. âThere were other difficulties as I got myself used to working at this new loom,â he says. âBut as I handled the threads [of kasuri], my determination to overcome these challenges was strengthened.â
Maeshiro marked his return to the loom with a lofty ambition. âI felt I should give myself some big new objective,â he remembers, âso I set myself the challenge of exhibiting in the art worldâs number one city, New York.â Four years later, in 2021, Maeshiro put on a solo show, âOkinawa Blues,â at Tenri Gallery in Manhattan.
For the exhibition, he produced a kasuri stole that takes elements of traditional RyÅ«kyÅ« kasuri and imbues them with a contemporary spirit. Titled Three Little Birds, the stole depicts an avian trio flying above stripes rendered in a gradient of indigo hues. âThis bird motif, called the âtuigwaâ in local dialect, is a traditional Okinawan design,â Maeshiro explains. âIn homage to the Bob Marley song the piece is named for, I used three of these birds. True to the RyÅ«kyÅ« bigasuri created by my father and grandfather, I feel my mission is to develop patterns that are unique and also suit the times.â
While he is no longer riding the indigo waves that captivated him as a surfer, Maeshiro continues to find inspiration in surf culture and the ocean, riffing on traditional RyÅ«kyÅ«an designs to conjure visuals inspired by surfboard fins and surging swell. âThough Iâm presently unable to go surfing, itâs as if the hues of the ocean and sky, which change throughout the day, become my color samples as I dye threads for my kasuri,â he says. âItâs these colors that I want to express in cloth.â
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FORMS OVER FUNCTION
TEXT BY ALEXIS CHEUNG
IMAGES BY ARCHIVES OF AMERICAN ART, BROWNGROTTA ARTS, & TOSHIKO TAKAEZU FOUNDATION
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Pushing the boundaries of pottery, Toshiko Takaezu elevated functional craft into fine art.
Itâs called Devastation Trail in Hawaiâi Volcanoes National Park because lava swallowed the forest and charred the ground from green to black. In 1959, KÄ«lauea Iki erupted on Hawaiâi Island, and for 37 days, it spewed ash and sputtered fountains of lava, turning the hollow crater into a burning, molten lake.
Almost nothing survived, save for a handful of trees that were damaged but not destroyed, their trunks stripped of branches and leaves by falling cinder and spatter. They stand like skeletons, stark against the volcanic nothingness, white as bone. Other trees that were engulfed but not immediately burned left behind âlava treesâ: upright, hollow trace fossils that resemble stone sculptures.
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Starting in the 1970s, the ceramicist Toshiko Takaezu created her own Devastation Trail. Inspired by the roughly one-mile path of destruction, she began molding thick clay slabs into tall, hollow cylinders of up to eight or more feet tall. In Homage to Devastation Forest (Tree Man Forest) , seven tree-like forms are clustered on a field of crushed rocks, glazed in striated tones of moon white, obsidian black, and soil brown. Another work, entitled Lava Forest , stands among the plant life in the front courtyard of Hilo International Airport, their phallic forms stained in inky black and ochre hues.
âIt must be true that where you were born influences you,â Takaezu, born to Okinawan immigrant parents in 1922 in Pepeâekeo, Hawaiâi, told the Princeton Alumni Weekly in 1982. The impact that the islands had on Takaezuâs work is apparent throughout her oeuvreâeither explicitly, as with her Makaha Blue works, which capture the vibrant color of the ocean on the west side of Oâahu, or implicitly, in glazes of golden orange and soft pink that mimic the sunrise from the summit of HaleakalÄ on Maui.
At 18, she moved from Maui (her family relocated there in 1931) to Oâahu and found work as a housekeeper for Hugh and Lita Gantt of the Hawaiian Pottersâ Guild. It was there that she met her lifelong mentor, Lieutenant Carl Massa, and honed pottery skills that later led her to the ceramics program at the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoa. Takaezu would go on to enroll in drawing classes at the Honolulu School of Art; study ceramics, design, art history, and weaving at the university; and eventually leave Hawaiâi to study under renowned Finnish-American artist Maija Grotell at the prestigious Cranbrook Academy of Arts in Michigan.
âHawaiâi was where I learned technique; Cranbrook was where I found myself,â Takaezu has said of her studies there. Grotell encouraged her self-discovery, stirring her to experiment with multi-spouted tea vessels and early iterations of the closed forms for which Takaezu would ultimately become known.
Despite her growing sense of individuality, Takaezu had long felt divided by her Okinawan heritage and American identity. According to Darlene Fukuji, Takaezuâs great-niece and president of the Toshiko Takaezu Foundation, there was a constant pressure to cast off one identity in favor of another: Okinawan for Japanese after the RyÅ«kyÅ« archipelago
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Takaezuâs signature closed forms afforded her a wider canvas on which to explore color and abstraction.
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Installation view from the 1998 exhibition
â Toshiko Takaezu: At Home at the Hunterdon Art Museum.â
was annexed in 1879; Japanese for American during World War II. âItâs so complicated and also comes out really beautifully in her work, those dualities,â Fukuji says.
In 1959, Takaezu traveled to mainland Japan and Okinawa for eight months to commune with her origins and other ceramicists about the medium. There she met potter TÅyÅ Kaneshige, who reintroduced her to ShÅji Hamada, SÅetsu Yanagi, and other leaders of the mingei, or folk craft, movement, which focused on elevating ordinary forms like bowls into a higher art.
Takaezu was more drawn, however, to the work of Kazuo Yagi, the head of the avant-garde clay group SÅdeisha, or the âCrawling through Mud Association,â which was formed in opposition to the dominant ceramic style of mingei. Their work emphasized the sculptural over the functional, and their pieces lacked
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Takaezu leads a workshop at California State University in Hayward, California, in
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âIt must be true that where you were born influences you. But it comes later. Itâs not like taking directly from one thing to make another.â
âToshiko
Takaezu,
Hawaiâi-born ceramic artist
the holes or âmouthsâ that defined quotidian vases and pots.
Under the aesthetic influence of SÅdeisha, Takaezu returned to the states and created some of her most distinctive work, which continued to evolve beyond utilitarian cups, plates, and bowls to include ball-shaped âmoonâ pots and sculptural closed vessels that narrow into nipple-like points and contain ceramic ârattlesââbits of clay she would drop inside before closing the shape and kiln firing.
The closed form afforded Takaezu a wider canvas on which to explore color and play with glazes in an abstract-expressionist manner, giving her pieces their signature âpaintings-in-the-roundâ quality. âI was able successfully to merge the glaze as painting to the form, so that the twoâpainting and formâ became one total and complete piece,â the artist once said, according to the Toshiko Takaezu Foundation. âIn some ways this form, and the painting on it, have returned me to sculpture and painting on canvas.â
Regarded by art-world figures of the time as the âMadonna of Clayâ and âthe most important female ceramicist in America,â Takaezu was pivotal in transforming the traditionally functional medium into fine art in the United States. She was named a Living Treasure of Hawaiâi in 1987 and received the Konjuhosho Award in 2010 by the emperor of Japan as someone who has made significant contributions to Japanese societyâin part because she fully integrated herself into her art. âI felt like a ping-pong, back and forth,â Takaezu told interviewer Daniel Belgrad in 1993 in reference to her upbringing. âBut then, when I got older, I realized that it isnât East or West, really, itâs yourself. You take the best of both.â
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For more than 30 years, the Hawaiâi-born artist lived, gardened, and made increasingly large-scale work in the rural hamlet of Quakertown, New Jersey.
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PEACEFUL POWER
TEXT BY CHRIS WILLSON
IMAGES BY GERARD ELMORE & CHRIS WILLSON
TRANSLATION BY AKIKO MORI CHING
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Generations of karate practitioners uphold the principles of GÅjÅ«-ryÅ« and those of its legendary founder.
On a hot summer evening in Nahaâs Kume village, the drone of cicadas is punctuated by the cracks of fists against wooden boards. The synchronized pounding of feet and spirited yells echo around the neighborhood. It is here at Meibukan Hombu DÅjÅ, and at other karate schools throughout the islands, that Okinawaâs unique culture is preserved.
Seated in a corner is Meitetsu Yagi, a master of a style of karate known as GÅjÅ«-ryÅ«. He began his training from the age of 6 years old and earned his first dan (rank) in both karate and judo at age 16. Like many Okinawan karate masters, he went on to hold a day job alongside his martial arts practice, but his true passion and calling was karate. Working as a high school English teacher until he retired at age 60, he considered the two parts of his lifeâteaching and karate trainingâconnected. âThe goal of education and budÅ (the way of the warrior) is the same,â he says. âTo become a nice person who can contribute to the world.â
His son, Ippei Yagi, a barrel of a man, stands at the front of the room. Gripping the wooden floor with his toes, Ippei twists his hips and powers his arm and fist into an invisible target. As an All Okinawa Karate Champion of kumite, or sparring, Ippei wasnât known for flashy kicks or rapid strikes but powerful, welltimed blows. Today he is the next successor in line after his father to oversee many of the dÅjÅs affiliated with the Meibukan branch of GÅjÅ«-ryÅ« karate founded by his grandfather, the late Meitoku Yagi. In 1997, Meitoku became a holder of the Intangible Cultural Property title for Okinawa karate and kobudÅ. He is said to have learned all 12 core GÅjÅ«-ryÅ« kata (forms) from Miyagi ChÅjun, the legendary forefather of GÅjÅ«-ryÅ«.
Meibukan Hombu DÅjÅ is situated in an apt location: Just a short distance away is FukushÅ«en, a traditional Chinese garden that celebrates Nahaâs connection to its sister city of Fuzhou in Chinaâs Fujian province, where Miyagi honed his skills. On his return to Okinawa, Miyagi blended what he had learned in China with his knowledge of Naha-teâa regional style of combat that combined Chinese martial arts and local fighting methodsâto create GÅjÅ«-ryÅ«, meaning âhard-soft school.â
Japanese statesmen had taken an interest in Okinawan martial arts after the RyÅ«kyÅ« Kingdom was annexed and became Japanâs Okinawa Prefecture, believing that their rigorous conditioning and discipline
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On Karate Day in 2016, nearly 4,000 participants gathered on Kokusai Street in Naha to set a new Guinness World Record for the most people performing a kata.
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âItâs an attitude of non-violence, of respect toward others, Thatâs what karate is really about.â
âMiguel Da Luz, Okinawa Karate Information Center
would benefit society, particularly if integrated into the education system. The term âkarate,â as it came to be known, was originally written with kanji characters meaning âChinese hand,â but in 1936, Okinawan karate masters changed its writing to mean âempty hand,â both to honor karateâs evolution beyond China and to promote its weaponless nature.
GÅjÅ«-ryÅ«, a distinct style of karate that combines hard, linear striking techniques with soft, circular movements, is âlike yin and yang,â says Miguel Da Luz, a representative of the Okinawa Karate Information Center. âYou need both aspects. When needed, you have to adjust between the two.â
As Ippei leads the eveningâs class, guiding his young students with a tender discipline, itâs clear there is a deeper meaning to GÅjÅ«-ryÅ«âs duality of hard and soft. âThe stronger you become, the gentler your heart should be, the more kind and humble,â Ippei says. âKarate is like a weapon. Instead of just giving students the weapon, you have to teach them the mindset. Itâs dangerous to only give them the technique and not teach them the philosophy behind it.â
When he was approached by Halekulani Okinawa to offer karate lessons to hotel guests, Ippei was pleased to learn that the resort was more interested in promoting the philosophy behind the form than teaching the mechanics of combat. âThe important thing is to train the body, hone the technique, and nurture the mind, [not] beat people up,â he says. âHalekulani is the only hotel that asked me to focus on the philosophy.â
As Da Luz puts it, karate is more than a martial art; itâs a way of life. âItâs an attitude of non-violence, of respect toward others,â he says. âThatâs what karate is really about.â
Ryuhei Yagi, Ippeiâs eldest son, stands at the center of the dojo surrounded by his peers. Moving with unwavering intensity, he performs a kata, his kiai (battle cries) piercing the thick heat of the room. Like his siblings and cousins, Ryuhei began his training at a young age, and the fruits of his labor are apparent in his fierce precision and commanding gaze. It is his spirit, however, that Ippei is most interested in strengthening. âIâm most happy when someone tells me that my students are good people,â Ippei says. âThis is the philosophy at our dojo.â
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A DIASPORIC DIALOGUE
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In UchinÄguchi, one of the Indigenous languages of Okinawa, there is a saying: Ichariba chÅdÄ. Once we meet, we are chÅdÄâbrothers and sisters. For many in the diaspora, including myself, the saying reassures us that when we return to our homeland, we are welcomed as family. Yet, on a rainy winter night in Kalihi Valley on the Hawaiian island of Oâahu, my understanding of the saying is challenged by Eric Wada and Norman Kaneshiro, Hawaiâi-born UchinÄnchu and co-founders of Ukwanshin Kabudan, a performing arts troupe dedicated to perpetuating Okinawan arts and culture in Hawaiâi.
âItâs a powerful phrase, right?â Kaneshiro says. âBut if youâre coming from a take-take-take perspectiveâa colonizer perspectiveâwhat it means is that youâre entitled to everybodyâs friendship and love without doing anything in return.â
In January 1900, 26 Okinawan contract laborers arrived in Hawaiâi to work on the plantations, launching a wave of emigration that sent thousands of Okinawans into the diaspora. In the years since, Okinawans in the homeland have endured a brutal battle between two empires, fractured to this day by ongoing Japanese colonization and American military occupation. Meanwhile, those in diaspora have faced discrimination and assimilation while making a home in a foreign land. Today, roughly 100,000 Okinawans live in Hawaiâi.
In this context, what does it mean to meet as chÅdÄ who, though connected by family genealogies and ancestral villages, are also separated by five generations of emigration, an ocean, a language barrier, and vastly different experiences of war and colonization?
When Wada and Kaneshiro founded Ukwanshin Kabudan in 2007, it was with the aim to nurture
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Ukwanshin Kabudan reconnects Hawaiâiâs Okinawan community with their homeland through music and dance.
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Ukwanshin Kabudan aims to instill in Hawaiâiâs Okinawan community a sense of reciprocal responsibility, both to the islands of their ancestors and the islands that raised them.
connections between Hawaiâi and Okinawa through traditional music and dance. More deeply, it was to instill in Hawaiâiâs Okinawan community a sense of reciprocal responsibility, both to the islands of our ancestors and the islands that raised us.
âItâs a strong kuleana (responsibility),â Wada says as we sit on the floor of the dance studio he built in his home. He wears a blue T-shirt emblazoned with the Hawaiian adage, âola i ka wai,â meaning âwater is life.â Above him, portraits of masters of the Tamagusuku style of Okinawan classical arts hang in the manner of respected uyafÄfuji, or ancestors. He continues, âIn UchinÄguchi we call it fichi-ukÄ«n.â The verb pulls together two roots, fichun, to pull or inherit, and ukÄ«n, to accept or embrace. Combined, it signifies our accountability to the responsibilities we inherit from our ancestors.
As young boys yearning for more of a connection to their Okinawan ancestry and UchinÄnchu identities, Wada and Kaneshiro both took up dance and sanshin, an Okinawan stringed instrument. Kaneshiro was 16 when he met Wada, ten years his senior, but they quickly bonded over a shared passion for the arts, not just as a practice but also a kind of compass on their journey to make sense of themselves. Together, they worked their way through the hierarchies of Okinawan classical arts, studying in Okinawa and deepening their commitment to cultural practice as a way of life. Wada reached the level of shihan, or grandmaster, in dance. Kaneshiro reached the same pinnacle in music. They learned both Japanese and UchinÄguchi and became wellversed in cultural protocol.
âIn a five-minute song, thereâs this whole history, this whole world behind it,â Kaneshiro marvels. As he and Wada explored those worlds, they increasingly understood cultural practice as a political act. âEven speaking your language is a form of activism,â Wada says.
Before it was annexed by Japan in 1879, Okinawa was an independent nation known as the RyÅ«kyÅ« Kingdom. Much like in Hawaiâi, annexation brought the systematic suppression of language and culture, such that today, Okinawaâs Indigenous languages are considered severely endangered. Many cultural practices have been lost. The name that Wada and
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Kaneshiro gave their performance troupe, Ukwanshin Kabudan, is itself a reminder of this sovereign history, referring to the ukwanshin or âcrown shipsâ that carried large envoys from China to RyÅ«kyÅ« for the coronation of a monarch. Upon their arrival, elaborate music and dance programs known as ukwanshin udui (crown ship dances) were offered to entertain the Chinese delegation. These would become the foundation for Okinawan classical arts.
Heavily influenced by the work of Hawaiian nationalists like Haunani-Kay Trask and LilikalÄ Kameâeleihiwa, Ukwanshin Kabudan looked to dance and music as a way to ignite conversations about RyÅ«kyÅ«an sovereignty and reclaim a culture and history that colonization and occupation tried to erase.
In Hawaiâi, that meant not just performing for the Okinawan community, but also educating people about the rich history of Okinawaâand confronting the role of Okinawans as settlers on Hawaiian lands. âWe started bringing up the words âcolonized, assimilated, settler, discrimination,â and especially the older generation didnât take to it,â Wada recalls. âIt was something they couldnât talk about.â Gradually, the conversation changed, often by making connections between the desecration of sacred lands in both Okinawa and Hawaiâiâparticularly by the United States military, which currently operates 32 bases in Okinawa.
In Okinawa, Wada and Kaneshiro found that their outside-insider identitiesâUchinÄnchu born in Hawaiâi but also certified shihanâgranted them a unique kinship with those in their homeland. As musicians, they could create intimate spaces for difficult conversations about Okinawaâs history. And as visitors from the diaspora, they were slightly removed from the familial and intergenerational trauma that arose from those discussions. Eventually, they found themselves tending to wounds that had long been hidden. âWe got to this other level where elders could talk to us,â Kaneshiro says. âThings they had a hard time sharing with their own children but wanted to tell us, because it needed to be passed down to the next generation.â This deep trust demonstrated for them the importance of a reciprocal relationship between Hawaiâi and Okinawa.
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Where once they looked to Okinawa for a sense of authenticity and authority, Wada and Kaneshiro saw an opportunity to reclaim and co-create an Indigenous identity with Okinawans in the homeland.
Over the years, Wada, Kaneshiro, and others at Ukwanshin Kabudan have expanded the organizationâs activities dramatically, offering uta-sanshin classes from co-director Keith Nakaganeku, UchinÄguchi language classes from board member Brandon Ing, monthly workshops on Okinawan culture and politics, and an annual LooChoo Identity Summit that invites Okinawans from around the world to Hawaiâi to spark dialogue about who we are as a people.
It has also become increasingly focused on the kuleana that Okinawans have to Hawaiâi and KÄnaka Maoli (Native Hawaiians). In 2019, during the stand for Mauna Kea, members of Ukwanshin Kabudan led a delegation of Okinawans to offer hoâokupu (gifts) in solidarity with those protecting the sacred mountain at Puâuhonua o Puâuhuluhulu, and in the aftermath of the Red Hill jet fuel leak in 2021, Ukwanshin Kabudan hosted panel discussions to draw vital connections between the U.S. militaryâs contamination of both Hawaiâi and Okinawaâs aquifers. Most recently, the group has become involved with efforts to repatriate the remains of Okinawan ancestors and return them to their rightful resting places.
Reflecting on the ways Ukwanshin Kabudan has grown over the years, Wada says, âGoing back to fichi-ukÄ«n, because that word is connected to so muchâto who we are, and who weâre supposed to beâit just grows.â That is, perhaps, the burden and privilege of living in diaspora: you inherit responsibility for two different kinds of home.
Kaneshiro adds, âBecause when youâre family, you donât just show up to the house to eat and drink. You clean up after, you take care of the house. You come back and show up for the hard times. That is what it means to be chÅdÄ.â
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MEANING IN MOVEMENT
TEXT BY LAUREN MCNALLY
IMAGES BY MICHELLE MISHINA & CHRIS RUDZ
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A renowned hula dancer shares the art of hula with audiences near and far.
Itâs show time at House Without A Key, but instead of taking the stage on Halekulaniâs beachfront lawn like sheâs done countless times over the past 46 years, Kanoe Miller is taking shelter from a typhoon. Tonight, the hotelâs resident hula dancer is on the opposite end of the Pacific from her typical post in WaikÄ«kÄ«, and her performance at House Without A Key at Halekulaniâs sister property in Okinawa has been moved indoors due to the approaching storm.
In the more intimate setting of Halekulani Okinawaâs upstairs banquet room, the former Miss Hawaiâi has decided to improvise. âLetâs call people up out of the audience,â she says, turning to her band. âWeâre going to have them dance.â
It felt like they were at home, Miller shares the following day over Zoom, during a few hours of downtime in her hotel room overlooking the azure waters of Nago Bay. âThatâs the way you would do it,â she continues. âYou talk to people, make them laugh, have fun. You share your hula with the audience as if theyâre sitting in your living room.â
Despite her long tenure as a hula performer, Miller didnât always consider herself an authority on the art form. When Kapiâolani Community College approached her about teaching a series of hula seminars in 2009, more than 30 years into her career as a professional dancer, she initially declined. Iâm no hula teacher , Miller thought. With so many worthy, credentialed kumu hula (hula teachers) on the island, she wondered, Why me ?
As it turns out, the school was looking for an instructor unaffiliated with any of Hawaiâiâs established hÄlau hula (hula groups)âsomeone âneutralâ who could serve as an ambassador of the dance for the seminarâs Japanese attendees. Reluctantly, Miller agreed to lead the class, on one condition: âIâm going to have to do it my way.â
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Longtime Waikīkī performer Kanoe Miller dances hula on the beach in Okinawa.
She spent the next couple of months developing a curriculum to teach not only the mechanics of hula, but the nuances that give the dance its significance and meaning: a gesture of the hand, a glint in the eye, a subtle tilt of the head. âHula is storytelling,â Miller says. âYou have to come to it with an open heart, that way, you can tell the story from your own experience.â
Over the ensuing decade, Miller made frequent trips to host workshops for her growing following in Japan, traveling back and forth to maintain her schedule of weekly hula shows at Halekulani. After the pandemic hit, putting an end to her usual pipeline of performing and teaching engagements, Miller and her husband, John, outfitted the living room of their KÄneâohe home with everything sheâd need to bring her classes into the virtual realm: recording equipment, a sound system, studio lights, a 70-inch TV.
But when the time came for Miller to host her first Zoom class, she was met with a screen full of dancers moving to music streamed over unsynchronized internet connections around the globe. At the end of the session, Miller said goodbye to her students, shut off the screen, and wept, convinced that all the money and effort theyâd invested in the endeavor had gone to waste.
In the absence of other revenue streams, however, the couple had no choice but to make it work. Miller took to dancing with her back to the camera so that students could follow along from behind, then learned to dance in reverse so she could turn around and mirror their movements. Most of all, she says, âI stopped expecting them to be synchronized and learned to see them as individual dancers.â
Focusing on one student at a time, Miller could offer pointers if she noticed a girlâs fingers were out of place, or if another wasnât moving her hips correctly or flexing her knees enough. In calling out one student, she realized, others were quick to selfcorrect. Sheâd ask the class to turn off their screens while a select few performed, making clear that she was attuned to each and every dancer in attendance. From her days as a young entertainer, Miller was already in the habit of fixing her gaze on the camera when she spoke, and so she addressed her students the same wayâas if she were looking them right in the eyes.
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Four years after dancing at the hotelâs grand opening in 2019, Miller was invited back for a repeat performance at Halekulani Okinawa.
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Returning to the stage after nearly two years of lockdown was an emotional experience for Miller.
After nearly two years in lockdown, her life as a performer felt like a distant memory. The period of forced isolation enabled Miller to devote herself to the craft of hula in a new way, granting her the time to dive into research, document new choreography, and build up an archive of recorded classes. âI went down to WaikÄ«kÄ« twice, just to drive through,â Miller says. âI didnât miss it at all.â
That is, until Halekulani reopened and she felt the familiar thrill of being on stage. âWhen the music started and I heard the live harmonies, I wanted to cry,â Miller says. âIt all came rushing in: This is who I am. This is where I belong.â
An entertainer at heart, Miller is back to performing every Saturday and every other Friday in WaikÄ«kÄ«, though sheâs far from abandoning her second love of teaching. Hula classes continue to occupy the majority of her timeâand theyâre all still virtual, as sheâs long embraced the opportunity to share hula with audiences both near and far. âTeaching hula, you have to study the words and teach your students to express them, so youâre sharing the stories of Hawaiâi in that way too,â Miller says before signing off, ending our Zoom call to get ready for the eveningâs show.
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GUARDIANS OF THE REEF
TEXT BY ANDY GAYLER
IMAGES BY DANIEL DENDLER & YOSHITAKA KINJO
TRANSLATION BY MUTSUMI MATSUNOBU
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In the face of climate change and other threats, local environmentalists are turning the tide to protect Okinawaâs coral-rich waters.
Growing up in Okinawa, Yukino Kinjo had always thought of herself as an ocean lover. But as with many casual beachgoers, the sea was mostly a picturesque backdrop for barbecues, sunsets, and the occasional dip in the water. Then, at age 18, she took a diving course that changed everything.
Descending below the waves, she was astonished to discover a breathtaking seascape of corals teeming with fish, crustaceans, and mollusks. The experience made her a proselytizer of the reef, eager to instill in others the same sense of wonder she felt upon encountering its vibrant splendor for the first time. âWhen people would tell me how beautiful it is,â she says, âit was as though they were also complimenting me.â
So it came as a shock some years later when, on a snorkeling trip to a neighboring island, a fellow diver told her the sunscreen she was applying was toxic to coral reefs. âHis words haunted me,â Yukino recalls. âI love the oceanâI thought I was one of the good ones.â
She dedicated herself to researching everything she could on the subject, learning that chemicals commonly found in sunscreenâoxybenzone and octinoxate, among othersâare indeed detrimental to coral health. She also found that, despite an abundance of commercially available alternatives in the West, there was relatively little awareness of the problem in Japan. Eventually, she was able to leverage her growing expertise to develop her own reef-safe sunscreen formula, launching the product Coral-friendly Sunscreen in 2017. Two years later, she followed it up with another project, Manatii,
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Upon learning that many sunscreens are harmful to coral, Yukino Kinjo became a steward of the reef.
partnering with local organizations to offer beach clean-ups as an ecotourism activity for residents and visitors.
Yukino is not alone in taking a stand for Okinawaâs coral reefs. Midway up Okinawa Hontoâs west coast, the mayor of Onna village declared Onna a âVillage of Coralâ in 2018 in a pledge to protect its famed reefs. Home to some of the islandâs finest snorkeling and diving sites, Onna became the first tourist destination in Japan to adopt sustainable tourism guidelines set forth by Green Fins, an initiative of the UN Environment Programme and The Reef-World Foundation, a U.K.-based charity.
Two years after Halekulani Okinawa opened its doors in Onna village in 2019, it joined the communityâs efforts to uphold Onnaâs designation as a âFuture Cityâ in support of the United Nationâs Sustainable
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âOnly 0.2 percent of the sea is coral reef, but a quarter of all marine life depends on it.â
âEijun Kuninaka, Halekulani Okinawa
Development Goals (SDGs) for the area, including contributing to coral reef and marine environmental conservation around the hotel. âOnly 0.2 percent of the sea is coral reef, but a quarter of all marine life depends on it,â says Eijun Kuninaka, who leads the hotelâs SDG initiatives. âCoral provides nutrition to small creatures, such as shrimps and small fish, and these are food for the bigger fish, and so on up the food chain.â Unless meaningful action is taken, Kuninaka believes the worldâs corals will be gone within this centuryâa potentially devastating blow to coastal communities that rely on coral reefs for sustenance, income, and protection, and to the countless others who benefit from the vital ecosystem services they provide.
Though experts agree that a variety of strategies are necessary to address threats to the worldâs reefs, environmentally sustainable coral cultivation is one of growing interest among those in the field. Kuninaka is restructuring the program based on research by the Tropical Biosphere Research Center at the University of the Ryukyus to enhance the environmental adaptability of corals, aiming to increase the survival rate after coral transplantation. âEven if we canât change anything in this generation, the next generation can continue [this work],â he says.
When it comes to protecting the islandâs reefs for future generations, conversations often lead to one manâKoji Kinjo, who Yukino describes as âthe face of coral preservation in Okinawa.â Research on Okinawaâs diverse coral reefs dates back to the mid20th century, but it was thrust to the forefront in 1998, when a severe El Niño event led to the unprecedented mass bleaching of as much as 90 percent of Okinawaâs corals and the loss of 15 percent of corals worldwide. Koji, a restaurant and shop owner at the time, was deeply disturbed at the grim sight. âI grew up with the ocean, and so I knew it when the coral was full of color, in Hi-Vision,â he recalls. âBut it was like we had switched back to black and white.â
After many discouraging years of experimentation as an amateur coral farmer, Koji was successful in propagating, transplanting, and spawning coral in the wild. At Sango Batake, the coral breeding facility he went on to build on the coast of Yomitan village, Koji now educates visitors about reef ecology and has grown nearly 200,000 corals from 120 species.
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Koji Kinjo and his team work to breed resilient corals in Sango Batakeâs artificial pond.
He jokingly calls his farm a âsupply center,â but itâs also something of a laboratoryâin recent years, Koji and his team have made groundbreaking headway in breeding coral resistant to warmer waters.
âCorals have a longer history than humans,â he says. âThey are adapting.â
But itâs not only the corals that need to adapt, Koji says. âOur generation came to believe itâs not our faultâitâs someone elseâs, so we donât have to take responsibility or do anything about it,â he says. âIf we keep that kind of attitude and do nothing, the next generation will say, âOur parentsâ generation just experienced the good things and didnât leave anything.ââ
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Moments of joy, reverence, and devotion within Okinawaâs surfing community come into focus through the lens of local photographers.
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Unlike the vast majority of surf spots in Okinawa, the shallow waters of this one in Motobu offers up swell like a beach break.
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Counterclockwise from left, Yanbaru surfboard shaper Toshiyuki Nakamura takes a board out for a test ride; his son, Tao, rides a wave; a work in progress at G-Factory, a surfboard factory in Nago. On the previous spread, woodworker Tetsuya Fujishiro of Nakijin village carves a surfboard fin from Okinawaâs native sendan (chinaberry) tree.
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Immersed in the islandâs traditional way of life, a photographer finds a muse in Iriomote.
It's hard to deny the inexplicable energy that exists on Iriomote. Part of the islandâs magnetism lies in its mesmerizing landscape of mountainous jungle and dense mangroves, its miles of sandy coastline, meandering inlets, and pristine coral reefs. With such undeveloped wilderness throughout the region, itâs no surprise that nature is an inextricable part of RyÅ«kyÅ«an culture, which remains deeply rooted on Iriomote despite an aging population of elders and a long history of weathering cultural hegemony of China, the United States, and Japan.
And with access limited to boat or ferry from Ishigaki island, there is also Iriomoteâs profound sense of seclusion. In my limited visits to Iriomote as a writer and photographer, once in 2017 and again in 2023, I tried to evoke the palpable feeling of isolation that permeated my experience as a visitor there, but itâs a
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place that requires much more than a few visits to fully grasp. Polish-born photographer Karola Mech felt that power and an immediate connection to Iriomote during her first visit to Okinawa in 2016 and stayed, making it her home and the subject of her photographic practice.
âI loved Iriomote instantly. I felt like, this is it, this is my place,â Mech recalls. âOn the last day, I found out about WWOOF-ing (Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms) and thought, âThis is perfect. I can stay for three months, live with the locals, and in my free time I can take photos.ââ
Mech returned for good in 2019 and now lives in the small Iriomote village of Hoshidate, where she works as a cultural guide for visitors to the island. She has made treasured memories through attempts at a more traditional lifestyle on Iriomoteâonce sharing rice-farming duties with her Hokkaido-born husband. âMy husband borrowed the field from our next-door neighbor, OjÄ«chan (Grandfather),â Mech says. âRice is a big part of the culture here. There is some machinery to thresh the rice afterward, but itâs all grown by hand.â
When sheâs not guiding guests for her tour experience, Cultural Walk Iriomote, Mech is busy building an impressive body of work documenting the culture, traditions, and people of Iriomote. Her time invested in the community as a local resident has allowed her to gain access to private RyÅ«kyÅ«an rituals and ceremonies on Iriomote and the surrounding Yaeyama and Miyako islands.
Itâs an ongoing project that continues to evolve the longer she lives on the island. Her desire to explore the essence of RyÅ«kyÅ«an beliefs first led her to photographing religious rites on Iriomote, but she has since taken to examining other aspects of life on the island through various mediums, including capturing audio recordings of interviews, songs, and sounds in nature.
âI had some concept in the beginning about the role of women in society because Okinawan religion is matriarchal and led by women. I wanted to investigate that, but the project has grown to include more aspects, like the RyÅ«kyÅ«an languages and the Iriomote dialect, which are disappearing,â Mech says. âBut Iâm still fascinated by the RyÅ«kyÅ«an religion, which is ancient and beautiful. Itâs all intuitiveâIâm following my interests here.â
Long-term documentary photography is inherently an exercise in delayed gratification, but even more so as Mech practices it: using a Rolleiflex camera and
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Photographer Karola Mech composes a detail shot of a sudina, a traditional garment worn on festive occasions by the women of Iriomote and other Yaeyama islands.
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Writer and photographer Lance Henderstein documents a quiet moment on the ferry ride to Iriomote.
analog film. âI will always remember the first time I entered a darkroomâthe red light, the dripping water. It was silent, dark, and smelled of chemicals,â Mech says. âTo see a complex photograph appearing in the tray was magical.â
Each photograph is an investment of great effort and expenseâan act of faith in oneâs artistic vision, and in the value of light and instinct as a conduit for interpreting fleeting moments. âI have the same feeling [as that first time in the darkroom] when doing cyanotypes now,â Mech says, referring to the 19th-century printing process that employs light-sensitive chemicals to produce monochrome images in a distinctive blue hue. âAfter exposing the paper with the blueprint chemicals, the photo appears while it is immersed in water. The magic of a blueprint is that every single one is different, and I never know how it will come out.â
But the thrill of analog photography comes at a price, especially in a place like Iriomote, where Mech must contend with the possibility of losing precious images of local rituals and religious ceremoniesâ rare windows into a world she has spent years seeking to immortalize in images. âAnalog photography
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Pictured above and on the opposite page are cyanotypes of master weaver and dyer Akiko Ishigaki and a disguise inspired by fudachimi, a figure unique to the Shichi festival held in the Iriomote village of Sonai.
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Mech seeks a deep understanding of the inner worlds of those living on the island.
is much more hazardous than digital,â Mech says. âNegatives can get light leaks during loading and unloading, storing and developing. They can be damaged in transport or in the fridge if the power is off during a typhoon. Making mistakes during development creates irreversible damage.â
Despite the inherent challenges of such an unpredictable medium, there are moments that have reaffirmed her creative path on Iriomote, making it that much more rewarding when all the elements come together. The first time Mech exhibited her cyanotype photographs at a craft market on Iriomote, an Okinawan elder began to weep at the sight of one of the images. The print, rendered in cyan blue, depicted a tsukasa (Okinawan priestess) in prayer, just as the elderâs own mother, who had also been a priestess, had done when she was alive. âHer tears were the best praise I could have received,â Mech says. âThey let me know that what I am doing here makes sense.â
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Located along the beautiful coastline of Onna Village in Okinawa, Halekulani Okinawa is an unrivaled resort that seamlessly combines the natural energy of this mystical paradise with the pinnacle of luxury.
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We offer four signature restaurants and bars, ranging from gastronomic dining that serves cutting-edge cuisine to a poolside bar where you can casually enjoy delicious food.
Innovative âSHIROUXâ is helmed by Chef Hiroyasu Kawate, one of the leading chefs in the Japanese culinary scene, serving as a consulting chef. As the owner-chef of Michelin two-star restaurant FlorilÚge in Tokyo, which ranked 27th on the list of the Worldâs 50 Best Restaurants in 2023, Chef Kawate brings a culinary expertise that has captivated food enthusiasts worldwide. The dining experience at Innovative âSHIROUXâ continues to evolve through collaborations with local Okinawan producers.
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Experience innovative culinary delights at Halekulani Okinawa.
White sandy beaches, white waves breaking onto the shore, and white clouds billowing in the skyâ Shiroux, meaning âwhiteâ in the Okinawan language, is where the delicate culinary world of Chef Hiroyasu Kawate meets the food culture of Okinawa.
The innovative French cuisine adds a fresh interpretation to local ingredients while maintaining a menu structure that is sustainable and minimizes food waste. We offer a luxurious wine pairing featuring meticulously selected fine wines and mixology cocktails to perfectly match your meal. Enjoy a one-of-a-kind dining experience that combines innovative cuisine with seasonal tasting menus and paired cocktails to add an elegant touch.
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HALEKULANI OKINAWA ESCAPES
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Experience the unique lifestyle of Okinawa and its âSecrets of Longevity.â
The hotel offers five âHalekulani Okinawa Escapesâ programs in which guests can experience âthe island of longevity,â which has gained attention worldwide for its traditional lifestyle and dietary habits.
âDiscover the Islandâs Umui (Spirit)â and âDiscover the Islandâs Mabui (Soul)â are two programs where guests can experience the secrets of longevity, developed by Halekulani Okinawa in partnership with Dr. Masashi Arakawa, Ph.D., at the University of the Ryukyus.
To âDiscover the Islandâs Umui (Spirit),â guests engage in the practice of mindful wellness, reflecting on their past and present, and savor meals deeply rooted in the concept of âfood as medicine,â derived from our local culinary traditions.
To âDiscover the Islandâs Mabui (Soul),â guests enjoy a wellness experience that teaches the fundamental âkataâ of karate, a martial art with a rich history dating back to the RyÅ«kyÅ« Kingdom era, which is also integrated as a health practice in daily life. Wrap up your day with a healthy meal and a spa treatment infused with traditional Okinawan ingredients.
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Experience the mystical beauty of Okinawa.
âDiscover the Islandâs Glowâ and two new programs, âConnect with Nature in Yanbaruâ and âWade Through the Waters of Yanbaru,â are three precious experiences, sure to delight even the most discerning travelers.
Guided by a local naturalist, guests âDiscover the Islandâs Glowâ with an excursion into the Yanbaru National Park shortly before sunset. After climbing in a kayak and paddling through mangrove trees, guests will witness a dazzling display of twinkling fireflies, creating a truly enchanting ambiance and unforgettable experience. This program is available from July through September, making the excursion even more unique and exclusive.
Available exclusively to guests of Halekulani Okinawa, âConnect with Nature in Yanbaruâ and âWade Through the Waters of Yanbaruâ are unique private excursions that encourage travelers to harness the healing power of nature while exploring Yanbaru, one of Japanâs newly recognized UNESCO World Natural Heritage Sites.
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Halekulaniâs flagship location on WaikÄ«kÄ« Beach has welcomed people since 1883, when the original owner, Robert Lewers, built a two-story house on the site of what is now the main building.
The fishermen of the area would bring their canoes onto the beach in front of the property to rest. So welcomed were they by the Lewers family that the locals named the location âhouse befitting heaven,â or Halekulani.
In 1917, Juliet and Clifford Kimball purchased the hotel, expanded it, and established it as a stylish resort for vacationers, giving it the name the locals originally bestowed on it, Halekulani. The hotel was sold following the passing of the Kimballs in 1962. Almost 20 years later, it was purchased by what is now the Honolulu-based Halekulani Corporation. The hotel was closed and rebuilt as the existing 453-room property.
Today, Halekulaniâs staff, location, and hospitality reflect the original Hawaiian welcome that defined the property.
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HALEKULANI BOUTIQUE
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Feel Halekulani at home.
Discover a diverse array of curated items that encapsulate the spirit of Halekulani Okinawa. From the moment you wake up with a delightful breakfast that lifts your spirits to the luxurious comfort of a good nightâs sleep, we deliver the enchanting moments of Halekulani Okinawa to your home.
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