Welcome to the second issue of PALM, the custom publication for residents of the condominiums developed by The MacNaughton Group and Kobayashi Group (together âMKâ), two Honolulu-based companies with decades of experience developing innovative places and experiences here in our island home.
As a part of our shared commitment to create beautiful living spaces and enhance our residentsâ cosmopolitan lifestyles, in this issue, we explore the theme of innovationâa subject near and dear to our hearts, and one that is closely tied to the MK story.
MK came together in the late 1990s when, against conventional wisdom, it partnered in the design and development of Hokua at 1288 Ala Moanaâthe first highrise developed on Oâahu in a decadeâwhich essentially jumpstarted the revitalization of the surrounding area. With Hokua and Capitol Place, our team pushed the envelope and proved there was a market for exceptional condominium living in the heart of Honolulu. Since then, weâve continued to innovate and elevate with ONE Ala Moana, and now, Park Lane Ala Moana.
In this edition of PALM, discover a diverse sampling of people and places that inspire usâtales of modern-day entrepreneurs and artists, of business leaders making their marks on Hawaiâi and the world, and of innovations in the worlds of medicine, culinary arts, and design. This edition of PALM confirms why Hawaiâi is a vibrant global hub with tremendous opportunities, where each new generation redefines innovation. We hope the stories in this issue inspire you to stretch beyond the limits, and to strive for the best.
Aloha,
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6 LETTER From the Developer
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8
The cover image by photographer Mel Tjoeng features model Brittany Valverde at Waimea Valley, a living puâuhonua, or place of peace and safety. The mission of Waimea Valley is to preserve and perpetuate the human, cultural, and natural resources of Waimea through education and stewardship.
10 TABLE OF CONTENTS ARTS 16 Make It Work: Artists of Hawaiâi BUSINESS 30 Land of the Rising Sun and Surf: Local Industry 42 Fit for Queens and a President: Healthcare Innovation CULTURE 54 Celestial Knowledge: Moon Phase Project 64 Sweet
Sugarcane DESIGN 74 Thrill of the Slide: Surfboard Design 88 Tides of Change: Seawalls 100 Fashion at Waimea Valley ESCAPES 114 The Perfect Weekend in Seville 130 Kauaâiâs Small Town Charm FARE 146 Seeing Stars: Senia Restaurant 64 100 ON THE COVER
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A detail of Net_work by Kaili Chun and Hongtao Zhou, whose Artists of Hawaiâi installation uses industrial-sized fishnets to raise questions about production and the economy.
16 A ARTS Artists of Hawaiâi PALM
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This work by Kaori Ukaji is featured in Artists of Hawaiâi at the Honolulu Museum of Art and is fashioned from dyed shavings of the artistâs skin.
The prestigious Artists of Hawaiâi biennial exhibition, an island staple since 1950, presents the work of four artists in a dynamic new format.
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At the Honolulu Museum of Art, the intimate courtyards designed by Bertram Goodhue and Catherine Jones Thompson are filled with fresh air and natural light. Seated along the central courtyard, curator Healoha Johnston wears a colorful printed dress that looks like it came straight from one of the paintings hanging in the museumâs contemporary gallery.
Johnston, who is Native Hawaiian and graduated from the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoa, is the museumâs first ever curator devoted specifically to the arts of Hawaiâi. Over the years, she has mounted a steady stream of exhibitions at the Hawaiâi State Foundation on Culture and the Arts, San Diego Natural History
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18 A ARTS Artists of Hawaiâi
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Opposite: In Intertidal Grandeur , video artist Kasey Lindley layers images to create new meaning. Above: For their works, Chun and Zhou, who both have backgrounds in architecture, often create structures that disrupt the routine of daily life.
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Museum, and Luis De Jesus contemporary art gallery in Los Angeles. In 2015, when Johnston joined the Honolulu Museum of Art, she came with big ambitions, focusing on cross-disciplinary works and on erasing the borders between artists of Hawaiâi and artists in Hawaiâi. Now, she is reinvigorating an island staple that dates back to 1950, the Honolulu Museum of Artâs biannual exhibition, Artists of Hawaiâi, shifting it from a juried show featuring works by as many as 50 artists to an experiential gallery focused on new-media installations by four contemporary artists.
âWhen we began reviewing the submissions for this upcoming show, we stayed open to letting the show evolve in a natural way,â Johnston says. âWe decided to combine a couple of people who applied with other artists who we wanted to invite, and focus on the experience and environment rather than objects. Thatâs one of the bigger conceptual distinctions of the show.â The entire 2,000-square-foot wing of the contemporary gallery presents the works of Kaili Chun and Hongtao Zhou as a collaborative team, Kasey Lindley, and Kaori Ukaji. To prepare these artists for their installations, Johnston visited them over the year leading up to the exhibit. Together, curator and creatives developed works larger than themselves.
Kaili Chun and Hongtao Zhou, Net_work
Kaili Chun and Hongtao Zhou share a fascination with the built world. Zhou is an associate professor of architecture at the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoa. Chun, a student of Zhou who is pursuing her doctorate in architecture, is an installation artist who often experiments with organic and industrial materials, and was among the first Native Hawaiian artists to show at the prestigious Venice Biennale in 2015. When Johnston, Chun, and Zhou met at Kaimuki Superette in February 2016 to discuss their installation, Zhao came with a sketchbook, while Chun brought her notions of visual language and systemic and social issues.
For their installation in Artists of Hawaiâi, titled Net_work, the duo decided to use industrial-sized fishnets to raise layered questions about production and the economy. On the literal end, the net affects ocean environments. âBut itâs also representative of a system, transportation systems, or artery systems,â Chun explains on the Honolulu Museum website. âInitially, we thought of the net as something we use to sustain ourselves, but in the end, it ends up destroying what weâre trying to preserve.â
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Museumgoers sit in Lindleyâs video installation inspired by the intertidal zone, which is covered with water or exposed to air, depending on the tide.
The longstanding Artists of Hawaiâi exhibition shifted in 2017 from a juried show featuring works by as many as 50 artists to an experiential gallery focused on new-media installations by four contemporary artists.
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Red-stained toilet paper rolls make up part of Kaori Ukajiâs Serenely Proliferating.
Lindley created looping projections of video collages for Artists of Hawaiâi , spending countless hours exploring Hawaiâiâs outdoors.
Net_work explores how societies are related to one another and encourages visitors to navigate their own paths through a maze of nets.
In their works, Chun and Zhou often reference structures that disrupt daily life yet are received with indifference. In 2012, Chun scattered 50 cage-like steel structures across WaimÄnalo Beach over 24 hours for an installation titled Veritas II; in 2013, Zhou created giant tree-like sculptures out of wood scraps in a Mongolian city in northern China to address the importance of protecting the environment amid the rapid growth of steel and concrete buildings.
Net_work portrays Hawaiâi as a portal to the rest of the world. When designing the path of the nets, the artists projected images of container ports and airport cities onto the walls of the gallery space, all connected by threads of netting. Visitors navigate the web created, finding their own paths as they meander through the space. âThis project has really opened my eyes to new ways of thinking and how we are related to other things around us,â Chun says. âWhether people or systems, we fail to ask deeper questions, and just let the system continue to consume us.â
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22 A ARTS Artists of Hawaiâi
PALM
Kasey Lindley, Intertidal Grandeur
For her installation, video artist Kasey Lindley spent days hiking and wandering the beach, shooting footage and taking photographs. Together, Johnston and Lindley spent hours culling this content at the artistâs apartment in WaikÄ«kÄ«. When Lindley started combining the resultsâ fragmenting what she captured, layering images upon images, incorporating watercolorsâthe two sat in Johnstonâs office or the museum courtyard, reviewing footage on the artistâs laptop.
âOne of the most important conversations we had was talking about the kind of implications and associations images have when they are overlaid,â Johnston says. âFor me, some of the images had strong messages, alluding to invasive species and power dynamics. So this is where I told her, âYou need to unpack it. What do you want to say? Understand that other people are going to come to their own conclusions unless you give it a really concentrated form.ââ
In due time, Lindley narrowed in on the intertidal zone, which is exposed when the tide is low and covered by water when the tide is high. It is also where dry land meets ocean, and where marine life is particularly resilient because it must survive the zoneâs dangerous extremes. For Lindley, the area is rich in meaning, historically and geographically. â[It] is layered from volcano activity and urban developments,â Lindley says. âThis is a very beautiful and dangerous landscape. Iâm interested in that tension.â
In her commanding gallery space at the Honolulu Museum of Art, four looping projections of video collages present visitors with a poetic and engrossing show. The two-part exhibition also features a performance by the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoaâs dance program. âHer installation really got me thinking about how we can better engage that space with exhibition programs,â Johnston says. âItâs really a way for us to introduce dance in an actual gallery space, which is a whole different way to approach art.â
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24 A ARTS Artists of Hawaiâi
PALM
Kaori Ukaji, Serenely Proliferating
Kaori Ukaji, a Japanese artist living on Hawaiâi Island, is known for her use of black graphite on paper, a traditional medium she presents in unconventional ways. It was for this ability to transform the normal into the unexpected that she was selected by other members of the curatorial team, James Jensen and Allison Wong, to create an installation for Artists of Hawaiâi
When Johnston traveled to Ukajiâs Hilo home, where the 53-year-old artist has lived for more the 20 years, to discuss the project, she discovered large canvases obsessively woven with red yarn standing upright in the studio as if held up by ghosts. She also found redstained toilet paper rolls fashioned into cell-like forms and a folded red cloth that turned out to have been made from the artistâs skin. âWhen she told me it was her skin, I jumped back,â says Johnston, who remarked on the mana, or power, imbued within a personâs body.
âI see it as a form of mark-making, and I use it because I have it,â says Ukaji, who layers shavings of her skin to create a woven tapestry-like material. âItâs a way to be resourceful, and a way to experiment with material.â For Ukajiâs installation at Artists of Hawaiâi, the human form is referenced in more understated ways, with nods to healing and degradation, revealing the subtle processes that spin through her mind. Whether the piece is deemed an eerie self-portrait or a metaphor for the mysteries of the body is irrelevant. What can be said with certainty is that Ukaji has placed herself at the heart of it all.
Artists of Hawaiâi is on display at the Honolulu Museum of Art through May 28, 2017. For more information, visit honolulumuseum.org.
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ã«ãªãªã»ãŠã«ãžãSerenely Proliferatingã
âI see it as a form of mark-making, and I use it because I have it,â says Kaori Ukaji, whose Serenely Proliferating exhibition includes pieces made using her skin. âItâs a way to be resourceful, and a way to experiment with material.â
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the economy
PALM B 29
Land of the Rising Sun and Surf
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30 B BUSINESS Industry PALM
While the allure of sun and surf draws an increasing amount of Japanese entrepreneurs to set up shop in Hawaiâi, perseverance and business acumen prove the recipes for success for these local businesses.
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Greenroom Hawaii CEO Yohei Otani sees potential success in Hawaiâi for his companyâs surf-art galleries, which are situated in a submarket that receives 5 million yearly tourists. ã°ãªãŒã³ã«ãŒã ã»ãã¯ã€ã®CEOããš ãŠãã€ã»ãªã¿ãããã¯ã幎é500äž äººã®èŠ³å
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In the Japanese port city of Yokohama, a festival named after the sweet spot found within a barreling wave attracts more than 70,000 annual spectators. Devised as both a business enterprise and a vehicle for spreading awareness about the declining health of the oceans, Japanâs Greenroom Festival, a two-day celebration of music, art, and surf culture, has become a lucrative and compelling social movement, promoting community beach cleanups alongside live performances by Chaka Khan and other big ticket artists.
In 2011, the 13-year-old festival brand, which also owns six surfthemed art galleries in Japan, expanded its operations to Honolulu. With an eye on advancing into the global market, Greenroomâs investors viewed Hawaiâi as a natural next step. The islandsâ geographic proximity, along with its residentsâ warm familiarity with Asian culture, and the Japanese peopleâs longtime love affair with the islands, seemed to offer a synergy that other coastal cities couldnât match.
Six years later, the companyâs outpost in the Pacific has yet to make a profit. âRent is expensive, construction is super expensive, materials are expensive, the air conditioning is expensive,â says Greenroom Hawaii CEO Yohei Otani. âYou go in knowing it will be expensive, but later, you really learn just how expensive.â
Hawaiâi has a reputation for having one of the nationâs highest costs of conducting business. The island state ranked 41 in Forbesâ 2016 analysis of states with the best business climates, for reasons including onerous regulations, a complicated tax code, and the nationâs highest utility bills and office rents. On the brighter side were Hawaiâiâs labor supply, growth prospects, and economic climate.
Regardless of the challenge, Japanese investors have been funneling money into Hawaiâi for decades, and Honolulu, which is
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experiencing an urbanization boom, steadily continues to attract new Japanese-owned enterprises. It all begs the question: If Hawaiâiâs economic climate is so daunting, why are these Japanese entrepreneurs so eager to invest?
Greenroomâs pair of surf art galleries, located at the Sheraton Waikiki Hotel and Resort and the newly remodeled International Market Place, are situated in a submarket that receives 5 million yearly tourists. Total visitor spending in Hawaiâi for the month of November 2016 was $1.2 billion. Over time, as the brand gains recognition and rising revenues continue to pay down early capital investments, Otani expects the companyâs profits to reflect this potential. A Hawaiâi-born surfer who spent his formative years in Japan, Otani sees the eco-surf brandâs foray into the Honolulu market as uncertain, but full of promise. He also believes that the brandâs expansion to Honolulu adds value to Greenroomâs business back in Japan, where Hawaiâi is adored.
âHawaiâi is the holy space of surfing,â says Naoki Kamayachi, the Japan-based owner of the Greenroom brand. âWe at Greenroom love and respect surf culture immensely, so itâs a very natural step to start our surf gallery business here in Hawaiâi first.â
Indeed, Hawaiâiâs sentimental appeal is a major draw for these business owners, according to Hide Sakurai, who works as a consultant to Japanese investors seeking to launch new ventures in Hawaiâi. According to Sakurai, many of Hawaiâiâs Japanese-owned enterprises are passion projects, and those that fail or struggle are often plagued by investorsâ lack of understanding about how business is conducted in the islands. Knowing this, Sakurai positions himself as a wake-up call to investors whose dreams of Oâahuâs sandy beaches sometimes cloud their business judgment.
âItâs not easy for a business to survive here, and they donât know what they donât know,â Sakurai says. âIn Japan, the cost to open up a mom-and-pop [shop] is $50,000 to $100,000. In Hawaiâi, itâs more expensive, itâs a longer process, itâs more difficult to get the plans approved, rents are high, and it takes time to find an architect. It takes about a year to do all of that. In Japan, all of that can happen in a few weeks.â
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34 B BUSINESS Industry
PALM
Nori Sakamoto, owner of Pioneer Saloon and Ars Café, arrived in Honolulu sight unseen 15 years ago with a surfboard in hand and a plan to pursue his joint passions: cooking and perfect, glassy waves.
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Sakuraiâs savvy in the local business culture is something the now 40-year-old has gleaned, and then marketed, over the course of two decades spent building a small Honolulu restaurant empire. The Tokyo-born restaurateur values that empireâwhich includes Shokudo Japanese Bar and Restaurant, Búho Cocina y Cantina, and Bread and Butter, as well as a wedding services business targeting Japanese clientsâat about $10 million.
Sakuraiâs education in American business began two decades ago, when he was hired to manage a floundering TGI Fridays in Guam. In two years, he was able to make the restaurant profitable again. This feat impressed the head of the chainâs Japanese unit, who then invited Sakurai to partner with him on a series of new restaurant concepts. Sakurai attributes his subsequent success to his knack for identifying trends and niche markets. In Hawaiâi, he discovered a love of Japanese cuisine, but also found a lack of restaurants offering casual, moderately priced Japanese cooking. And so, with the 2006 launch of Shokudo, Sakurai pioneered Japanese comfort food in Honolulu. In a show of his business acumen, he trademarked the restaurantâs bestselling dessert, its iconic honey toastâ thick-sliced toast topped with a honey drizzle and two scoops of vanilla ice creamâwhich helps the establishment maintain its popularity to this day.
While Sakurai is quick to share the difficulties of opening a business in Hawaiâi with Japanese investors, he also sees the potential. âI want to build a blueprint, a successful stepladder for people to follow,â he says. âIâm trying to create a formula, because if thereâs no structure, you could open your business here, and it could be a huge success, but you donât know why. When youâre winning, you want to know why ⊠so you can continue to win.â
While some, like Sakurai, come with business plans in mind, others move to Hawaiâi for the lifestyle, then later decide to open a business. Nori Sakamoto arrived in Honolulu sight unseen 15 years ago with a surfboard in hand and a plan to pursue his joint passions: cooking and
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36 B BUSINESS Industry
PALM
Hide Sakuraiâs savvy in the local business culture has enabled him to build a small Honolulu restaurant empire. The Tokyo-born restaurateur values that empireâwhich includes three popular restaurants and a wedding services businessâat about $10 million.
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perfect, glassy waves. He worked for years as the manager of a small Waikīkī musubi market before debuting the popular plate lunch restaurant Pioneer Saloon, and then the coffee shop and art gallery Ars Cafe, both of which are located on Monsarrat Avenue, a Diamond Head street that abounds with Japanese-owned ventures. Sakamoto says he earns enough money to get by, but he longs to be able to offer higher pay for his workers.
In an attempt to do just that, Sakamoto is opening a second Pioneer Saloon at Salt, a new mixed-use space in Kakaâako. Sakamoto says he expects to pay about $5,000 in monthly rent for 8,000 square feet, and heâs banking that Saltâs prime Kakaâako location will drum up more business than heâs able to catch at his current site. In a measure to help offset the cost of launching the new location, Sakamoto says he will don an apron himself and work in the kitchen when the restaurant opens. âI like it here,â Sakamoto says, citing the islandâs favorable weather and warm waters. âThis is my last gamble before I retire.â
The risk looks to have been worth it for Otani. âAt the end of the day, itâs a point of pride to say that we have expanded to Hawaiâi,â he says. âFor Japanese people, anything that comes from Hawaiâi has extra value.â
OTHER NOTABLE JAPANESE-OWNED SMALL BUSINESSES:
James After Beach Club was opened in 2014 by Shioya Masayoshi, who owns a restaurant in Niigata and a clothing shop in Kamakura, and Hashimoto Junji, who worked for more than two decades as a manager of a lounge in Niigata. The shop carries a well-curated, casual collection of surf apparel and accessories.
Goofy Cafe , named after the right-foot-forward surfing stance rather than the Disney character, is owned by Zetton Inc., which also operates Aloha Table in Waikīkī. Opened in 2014 at the entrance to the south shore surfspot known as Bowls, the café focuses on using locally sourced, organic ingredients in its breakfast, lunch, and dinner offerings.
Yakitori Hachibei opened its first United States location in Chinatown, Honolulu in January 2017. Originating in Hakata in 1983, this yakitori restaurant prepares its meats and proteins with a spritz of sake and a sprinkling of salt, before grilling them over hot charcoals.
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38 B BUSINESS Industry
PALM
Fit for Queens and a President
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In Hawaiâi, hospitals are home to doctors striving for innovation and the best patient care.
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The halls at the new neonatal intensive care unit at Kapiâolani Hospital are warm with natural light, their walls stenciled with the shapes of treesârainbow shower, kukui, koaâthat grow outside. Behind the doors that line the halls are rooms where families spend time with newborn babies who require dedicated medical attention. The rooms are a state-ofthe-art progression in neonatal care: Instead of one large room where all premature babies are kept, which is still a common sight in hospitals on the mainland, each baby who needs special care now gets her own room at the hospital, where she can rest deeply, and her family can spend extended time with her. This new wing at the hospital has been in the works since 2013. But the way for it was first paved in 1884, when Princess Kekaulike died, willing her home, Ululani, to be the site of a maternity home for Hawaiian mothers.
The royalty of the Hawaiian Kingdom, which was its own nation at the time of the princessâs death, had the foresight to know that their people needed hospitals where babies could be birthed, where mothers could be cared for, and where the sickâfacing disease brought by sailors and missionariesâcould be tended. In 1854,
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Even under the royalty of the Hawaiian Kingdom, healthcare in Hawaiâi was at the fore, and kings and queens knew the importance of establishing hospitals on Oâahu.
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King Kamehameha IV voiced his desire for a hospital to serve his people; in 1859, he and his wife, Queen Emma, founded what is now known as Queenâs Medical Center. Six years after Princess Kekaulikeâs death, her sister, Queen Kapiâolani, raised $8,000 to turn the five-bedroom Ululani residence into the maternity ward Kekaulike had hoped for, which opened its doors on July 14, 1890. Nearly 30 years later, it became the Kapiâolani Maternity Home, serving women of all races, and in 1928, it moved to the location where it stands today, merely a half-mile from its original home at Makiki Street and Beretania Avenue. On August 4, 1961, Barack Obama was born in one of the rooms at the Kapiâolani Medical Center for Women and Children, blissfully unaware of his future rise to president of the United States. As a teenager growing up in Makiki, he likely walked by one of the construction projects that helped transform it into a nationally recognized, state-of-the-art hospital.
Within the wings at Kapiâolani today are doctors building upon their fields to innovate new and improved practices, and to better understand sickness and health. The director of the division of neonatology, Dr. Charles Neal, is nationally recognized for his work in neurodevelopment. In the pediatrics department is pediatric cardiologist Andras Bratincsak, who made the first recorded diagnosis of atrial arrhythmia caused by chest trauma, in 2014. Over in the infectious disease department, Dr. Marian Melish is a specialist renowned worldwide for her work related to Kawasaki Disease, a rare blood disorder that primarily affects children.
Kapiâolaniâs newest building debuted in October 2016, featuring an expanded pediatric intensive care unit and a neonatal intensive care unit (NICU) with 70 state-of-theart private rooms for its patients. For Dr. Lynn Iwamoto, a motivated neonatologist who has worked at Kapiâolani since the start of her residency nearly three decades ago, this shift is an important advancement in neonatal care. Several years before its construction, to help refine this NICU concept, Iwamoto and several others traveled to early-adapting hospitalsâlike Phoenix Childrenâs Hospital and Rady Childrenâs Hospital in San Diegoâto see how those facilitiesâ private rooms were designed and used. Back in Honolulu, the dramatic upgrades are paying off for Kapiâolaniâs tiniest patients. âOnce we moved to the single-family room unit, the nurses knew immediately that the babies were doing better,â Iwamoto says. They were resting more deeply, families were able to spend the night, and mothers felt more comfortable breastfeeding, which is âreally the only thing that can help prevent some of the conditions that we see that are really devastating to babies,â Iwamoto says.
For Iwamoto, working at Kapiâolani is about providing the best care. Her fellowship research delving
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Kapiâolani Medical Centerâs new wing features an expanded pediatric intensive care unit and neonatal intensive care unit.
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into the hearing-loss side effects of a medication commonly used for respiratory issues in NICU patients led to a career involved in quality care for patients with hearing issues. Separately, seven years ago, when a fellow doctor told Iwamoto of Omegaven, an IV nutrition alternative from Europe being used at Boston Childrenâs Hospital to reverse liver damage caused by standard IV emulsions, she set out to navigate the FDAâs complex regulations in order to procure it for Kapiâolani patients. Today, Iwamoto and her fellow practitioners have administered Omegaven to at least 29 qualified children, who have each been able to go home healthy instead of having to await a liver transplant. For Iwamoto, going these extra lengths is not about research, or about being among the limited number of hospitals in the United States to provide such treatments, but about improving the lives of her patients. âI think people here are motivated, especially in pediatrics,â she says. âEverybody cares a lot about the patients.â
It was also patients who Dr. George F. Straub had in mind in the early 1900s, when he dreamed of founding a clinic where a range of specialized care could be received. He realized this aspiration in 1921 with the opening of Honoluluâs first group practice and specialized clinic. Ninety-six years later, the small hospital with clinics scattered around Oâahu, now known as Straub Medical Center, remains a place that values doctors who perform specialized medicine attentively and innovatively. Alongside the
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Lynn Iwamoto is shown in the neonatal intensive care unit at Kapiâolani Medical Center. Bottom: Straub Medical Centerâs Cass Nakasone has innovated a device used for hip replacements.
powerhouse orthopedic surgeons at Straub are any number of doctors who excel in their fields. âWe have a vascular surgeon, Elna Masuda, whoâs nationally renowned,â says Dr. Cass Nakasone, a Straub orthopedic surgeon. âMark Grattan, our heart surgeon, has one of the lowest mortality rates in the nation.â
It is only fitting that Nakasone work at Straub Medical Center. A ball of muscle in scrubs, his concise energy carries him from topic to topic, and from surgery to surgery. It also led him from a Stanford masterâs program in engineering to medical school at the University of Hawaiâi to a fellowship in Los Angeles. He studied at the Keck School of Medicine of USC under Dr. Kelly Vince, a top knee replacement and revision specialist, and at St. Johnâs Center under Joel Matta, world-famous for his work in pelvic trauma. This fellowship set Nakasone on the course to pioneer anterior revision hip replacementsâwhich are done through the front of the hip jointâat Straub Clinic. He has even innovated upon the device used in a hip replacement to anchor an implant to the femur, creating a simple stem ideal for surgeries done from the anterior approach.
Nakasone has excelled in his field, having demonstrated anterior hip replacements to visiting doctors from Japan to Florida, and presented at international conferences. But he never expected to go into medicine. The surgeon comes from a Hawaiâi family with humble rootsâhis Japanese-American grandparents had an okazuya during WWII, which can be seen in a photo at the Pearl Harbor Visitorâs Center. After earning physics and engineering bachelorâs degrees in a combined program at Whitman College and the California Institute of Technology, Nakasone headed to Stanford for his masterâs in engineering. While there, he worked with professor Charles Burgar to develop a device for a retired Navy pilot, who had been hit by a car and was paralyzed from the neck down, except for residual function in his thumb. The glove the pair created allowed the pilot to transmit Morse code to a computer, enabling him to control the conditions in his room, and eventually, to communicate.
It was Burgar who casually suggested Nakasone consider medical school. When he applied to UH MÄnoaâs John A. Burns School of Medicine, Nakasone thought he would graduate and then work for a bioengineering company. But he was drawn to orthopedics for his residency, a field that fit his engineering background, with its weight-bearing forces, tensions, and structural bones.
Today, Nakasone says he has one of the lowest complication rates in the country for hip and knee
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replacements. He has also developed a simple and affordable technique to deal with extensive bone loss in replaced knee joints, which he hopes to soon publish in order for the work to attain wider review and recognition. In the meantime, he has been working with the University of Hawaiâi on a study to be published this year that analyzes how walking gaits affect the success of knee replacements. His dream is to have a fully funded orthopedic research group at Straub, so that the innovative approaches implemented there can receive the recognition they deserve.
According to Nakasone, Hawaiâi is home to some of the fieldâs top practitioners, talented doctors who choose to practice in Hawaiâi after attending prestigious schools and participating in fellowships around the country. â[Hawaiâi has] a lot of really good people that went away for training and wanted to come home,â says Nakasone, who, like many others, sought to return to his family and the environment in which he grew up. âI was going to come back, whether I had to do orthopedics and bus tables on the side.â
For his part, Nakasone will continue to innovate orthopedic surgery in order to best serve his patients, and pursue funding to support his orthopedic teamâs research. At Kapiâolani Medical Center, Iwamoto will continue to improve the quality of her patientsâ lives, whether by encouraging progressive policies or by providing access to the most attentive care. As President Obama, born at the historic hospital on Bingham Street, once said, âThe future rewards those who press on.â It rewards the patients of those who do, too.
On January 3, Hawaiâi Pacific Health unveiled the Koa Society health care navigation program for its most valued donors, starting with the residents of Park Lane. The Koa Society gives residents who opt in, their families, and the guests staying in their households, access to a 24-hour, 7-days-a-week liaison, who assists them with services at Kapiâolani Medical Center for Women and Children, Pali Momi Medical Center, Straub Medical Center, and Wilcox Medical Center on Kauaâi.
To learn more, or to enroll, contact Nina Mullally at nina.mullally@hawaiipacifichealth.org.
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A sense
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fosters the human spirit
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Celestial Knowledge
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54 C CULTURE Moon Cycles PALM
The Hawaiian lunar calendar, kaulana mahina, reflects life in the islands before Western contact and lights the path to a more sustainable future in Hawaiâi.
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Before iPhones glowed with the time of day, before Google searches revealed the weather, before calendars hung on wallsâcenturies before the Gregorian calendar now followed internationally even existedâHawaiians lived by 30 phases of the moon. This shape-shifting celestial object was a visual indicator of time, helping Hawaiians to keep track of things like when to repair farming implements, or when to sow crops like banana trees and taro. Today, similar concepts of time telling are making headway, such as biodynamic farming, a method based on moon phases and sustainable practices and utilized by the likes of farms in Napa Valley, among others.
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Yet more than a millennium ago, Polynesians had already begun championing this farming technique, having integrated lunar rhythms into daily life. Through careful observation, they knew that the moon exerted a force upon the sea and land, influencing the plants and animals living beneath it. With full and new moons, Hawaiians anticipated the oceanâs most extreme tides, which brought fish that eat seaweed close to shore, within the distance of nets. When the full moon began to wane, it was time to pick herbs used for healing, since this was the time that plants were at their most potent, the water having been drawn up through their stems and leaves by the combined pull of the sun and moon. The moon was a compass in the sky for voyagers navigating the sea, a light source for families performing farming traditions like weeding taro patches at night, and a reminder to communities of approaching rains in future days.
âEverything from fishing to farming to having meetings to having babies, or when not to have babiesâall of that was based on the cycle of the moon,â Kalei Nuâuhiwa said to a room full of hopeful farmers and gardeners on Hawaiâi Island in 2012. To them, she explained that a Hawaiian month, or malama, includes one 30-day lunar cycle, in which the moon goes from its first waxing crescent to full to new. Each malama consists of three 10-day weeks, or anahulu. Within these weeks are segments of one to four days that are associated with different plantings, conditions, and tasks.
This message is age-old. But when missionaries and merchants arrived in Hawaiâi in the 19th century, bringing with them Western ways of thinking, they dismissed such Hawaiian practices as being too primitive, and instead, introduced calendars and farming practices originating in distant Europe. (Coincidentally, the Roman calendar, which preceded the solar-based Julian and Gregorian calendars, was also lunar-based.) Thankfully, Hawaiian language newspapers and early scholars, like David Malo, created a written record of the lunar calendar and its practices. Insightful Hawaiians also perpetuated such traditions in smaller circles. In 1972, anthropologist E.S. Craighill Handy and his wife, Elizabeth, along with Hawaiian scholar Mary Kawena Pukui, published Native Planters in Old Hawaii: Their Lore, Life, and Entertainment, dedicating an entire chapter to lunar traditions.
From such resources, Nuâuhiwa has become a wealth of knowledge on the Hawaiian lunar calendar, or kaulana
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Though farming by moon phases is on the rise today, Polynesians had already perfected this farming technique more than 1,000 years ago, having integrated lunar rhythms into daily life. Today, community members have created moon phase journals and calendars to track lunar observations.
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mahina. Growing up on Maui and starting a family of her own, she spent time with kÅ«puna, elders in her community, who shared knowledge of this calendar with her. Intrigued by her own culture, she went on to earn her masterâs degree in Hawaiian language from the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoa in 2007, digging through 15 years worth of research and conversation with kÅ«puna while crafting her thesis on kaulana mahina. Knowing how valuable the moonâs connection is to the land and sea, and how important this knowledge is to Hawaiian culture, Nuâuhiwa felt compelled to share it, and began sending out a monthly newsletter packed with information in 2004.
Nuâuhiwaâs newsletters and presentations have since inspired many protégés, including Brenda Asuncion, Jamie Makasobe, and Kanani Frazier. Having grown up surfing in Hawaiâi, the three were already aware of the moonâs influence on tides and were curious how it affected other aspects of their environment.
So, in 2013, the trio launched the Moon Phase Project to encourage others to develop a deeper understanding of the moonâs pull across the islands. They also debuted the Moon Phase Journal, which Makasobe designed with her business partners at fashion and design boutique Kealopiko. Made with recycled materials, the journal includes examples of lunar observations, and each page has a designated space for noting observations of a particular moon phase, which is illustrated alongside its Hawaiian name. âItâs amazing the amount of detail that ⊠Hawaiian people had for their specific areas and for the movement of time,â Frazier says.
Today, the Moon Phase Project has become an open forum across Hawaiâi and the Pacific, with farmers, fishermen, students, and researchers sharing their experiences on social media. As more participants share their pan-Pacific observations, the Moon Phase Project could play a pivotal role in analyzing patterns. For example, by clicking on the hashtag for a particular moon phase, someone could learn which plants bloomed best in their region during that time, and then cultivate their garden accordingly.
In 2015, the trio presented at the âAimalama Lunar Conference, conceived and led in part by Nuâuhiwa, which brought together practitioners from across the Pacific to discuss the way lunar cycles are being used in their communities. In 2016, Frazier created schoolspecific moon phase planners for students to track whatâs happening in their environments as the moon waxes and wanes. âIn 10 years, when those kids graduate,â Frazier says, âtheir mindset is going to be completely different than ours.â
For more information, visit moonphaseproject.com. The Moon Phase Journal can be purchased at select locations and online at kealopiko.com. Find a number of Hawaiian lunar calendars at aimalama.org/resources.
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62 C CULTURE Moon Cycles PALM
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Twelve years ago, Noa Lincoln was walking past a collection of Hawaiian sugarcane at the Amy B.H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden on Hawaiâi Island when something caught his eye: a plant identification sign was missing. When he knelt for a closer look, he realized several placards were conspicuously absent, while others were in the wrong spots. âNo one was working on the cane,â Lincoln says. âSo I figured Iâd give it a shot.â
As the gardenâs educational coordinator, Lincoln decided to replant the kÅ (the Hawaiian word for sugarcane) so that he could teach visitors about the native varieties of the plant. In the months that followed, he visited other kÅ collections across the state and eventually transformed the gardenâs wayward collection into a main attraction.
Lincoln has long been intrigued by the legacy of sugar in Hawaiâi, which played a significant role in Hawaiâiâs agricultural heritage centuries before Westerners arrived.
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A look back at Hawaiâiâs sugarcane era, and a look forward to its rooted future with one heirloom grower in Kunia.
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64 C CULTURE Sugarcane PALM
Although the last of Hawaiâiâs sugar mills harvested and processed its final crop in 2016, the roots of sugarcane native to the island chain remain, including at Manulele Distillers, which propagates dozens of sugarcane cultivars on its modest acreage on Oâahuâs west side.
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KÅ Hana rum is made using a method known as agricole production, wherein only cane juice is used, resulting in a product that sets itself apart from massproduced, molassesbased rums.
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To qualify as Hawaiian sugarcane, he explains, it must be a descendant of one of the plants brought to Hawaiâi by Polynesian settlers around 500 AD aboard voyaging canoes. âSo far, weâve identified more than 80 names of Hawaiian sugarcane,â Lincoln says. Now an assistant professor at the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoa, Lincoln continues to classify and catalog the surviving varieties of kÅ and identify other Hawaiian varieties, which he and fellow researchers are still pinpointing. âWe need to continue to increase our knowledge of Hawaiian sugarcane,â he says. âItâs important to our culture.â
In pre-contact Hawaiâi, tall grasses of sugarcane were planted in clumps near homes and along the embankments of taro ponds, and were used to stabilize banks in wetland areas. KÅ was also consumed for both ceremonial and medicinal purposes; roasted cane juice was fed as a tonic to nursing infants. In times of famine, the perennial plant was used to stave off hunger, and not surprisingly, it was a sought-after commodity for those with a sweet tooth. âIt was cut down, skinned, and eaten,â Lincoln explains. âI guess you could call it a traditional candy bar.â
As missionaries and merchants began to arrive in the islands in the 1800s, opportunists realized that Hawaiâi offered the perfect conditions to meet the Westâs growing demand for sugar. It wasnât long before sugarcane became a commercial endeavor and plantations started cropping up throughout the islands. In 1895, the newly established Hawaiian Sugar
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Plantersâ Association launched a breeding program to produce a more hardy and fruitful cane crop, and in 1905, it debuted its first hybrid cane. Eventually, native varieties of kÅ were supplanted by non-native varieties in fields across the state. By the 1930s, Hawaiâiâs plantations were cranking out more than one million tons of sugar annually and employing half a million workers hailing from as far away as the Philippines and Japan, which laid the foundation for Hawaiâiâs multicultural society.
But sugarâs heyday in Hawaiâi was relatively shortlived. Rising labor costs and the mechanization in mills on the mainland put a stranglehold on the industry. By the mid-1990s, nearly all of the stateâs sugar plantations had closed. In December 2016, the last of Hawaiâiâs sugar mills, Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company, harvested and processed its final crop after 145 years of growing sugarcane. The company attributed its demise to rising costs and increased competition from producers on the mainland and abroad.
The sun may have set on large-scale sugar production in Hawaiâi, but a few vestiges of the stateâs sugar-producing history still remain. For one thing, Lincoln says thereâs been a resurgence of public interest in Hawaiian sugarcane, which is why youâll still find it on display in ethnobotanical collections on Oâahu, Maui, and Hawaiâi Island. In addition, a handful of small-scale commercial operations are now using Hawaiian sugarcane.
In Kunia, on Oâahuâs west side, Manulele Distillers propagates dozens of sugarcane cultivars on its modest acreage, where it also produces the companyâs KÅ Hana line of rums. Utilizing a method known as agricole production, KÅ Hana rum is made using only cane juice from these plants, which is fermented, distilled, and aged without sugar byproducts, resulting in liquor that is remarkably smoothâa world apart from mass-produced, molasses-based rum.
Rather than sourcing sugar from distant sources or non-native cane, KÅ Hana celebrates the Hawaiian varieties of sugarcane, which range in color from deep violet with celadon rings to red-orange to a deep, dark green. Each variety produces a complex range of flavors. Sweet florals, buttery notes, and nuances of tropical fruit
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spring from KÅ Hanaâs three signature rums, Kea, Koho, and Koa, which are, respectively, white, gold, and dark. While the once-dominant sugar industry has ended in the islands, growers of heirloom sugarcane, like Manulele Distillers, will continue to revere and care for this plant.
Manulele Distillers offers rum tasting tours Wednesday through Saturday between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. To schedule a tour, or for more information, visit kohanarum.com.
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Since Polynesians first arrived in the islands, surfers have tinkered with the design of their crafts, searching out ways to enhance the ride.
More than 1,000 years ago, Polynesians in the South Pacific first discovered the thrill of heâe nalu, the art of the âwave slide.â To dance upon cerulean blue waters and cross-step over foamy seas was divine.
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Duke Kahanamoku surfing tandem in Waikīkī in 1929. Image by Warren Tong, Kahanamoku Photo Service, Bishop Museum.
The first surfboards in Hawaiâi, ridden by aliâi, or royalty, were heavy planks crafted from wood of the koa, wili wili, and âulu trees, with some boards weighing nearly 200 pounds. It was said that before the trees were felled for a surfboardâs wood, prayers were whispered and chanted in its honor. Boards were then shaped using pre-contact tools, like stone adzes, coral heads, and even sharkskin. TÄ« leaves and kukui nut oil were rubbed on the finished craft, an early form of stained water resistance. While the number of surfboard designs available back in those days continues to be debated, four main styles remain the most commonly found relics today: paipo, at 2 to 5 feet long; alaia, at 6 to 12 feet long; kikoâo, at 12 to 18 feet long; and olo, at 18 to 25 feet long.
The first leap in a surfboardâs evolutionary lifespan seems to have begun with Polynesiansâ oceanic migration from the islands of Tahiti, Samoa, and beyond, north to Hawaiâi. âSurfing, or the idea of sliding across a wave on an implement created specifically for that act, originates in the South Pacific,â says Native Hawaiian surfer, alaia maker, and scholar Tom âPohakuâ Stone. âBeyond very few artifacts, the earliest written recordings of people wave sliding were from Captain Cookâs voyage, and one of the boards shown is a very small board called an âuma. That, to me, I think becomes the forerunner of all different designs before we get to Hawaiâi.â
Whatâs key about Hawaiâi, Stone says, is that itâs a very different
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DESIGN Surfboards 76 D
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âThe idea of sliding across a wave on an implement created specifically for that act originates in the South Pacific,â explains Hawaiian scholar Tom âPohakuâ Stone. âI believe Polynesians had to create bigger boards when they arrived in Hawaiâi, specifically designed to surf bigger waves.â
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Above: Duke Kahanamoku holding a surfboard under his arm in Waikīkī, circa 1930. Image by Tai Sing Loo, Bishop Museum. Opposite: Worldchampion John John Florence pulls an aerial maneuver on a board shaped by John Pyzel.
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place with different types of waves, compared to other islands in the South Pacific. âI believe Polynesians had to create bigger boards when they arrived in Hawaiâi, specifically designed to surf bigger waves,â Stone explains. âBecause in Hawaiâi, the waves break on sand bars and on reefs closer to shore, unlike Tahiti or most places in the South Pacific, where they break off of outer reefs. WaikÄ«kÄ«, the North Shore, the west sideâthese are all shoreline breaks. Itâs only logical that they had to make a variation of [their] surfboards.â
By the early 19th century, Hawaiâi was overrun with Western missionaries who viewed traditional Polynesian rituals âincluding language, hula, surfing, and surfboard makingâas promoting lascivious behavior. In the years that followed, surfing, like hula, was driven underground, put on pause for nearly a century. It wasnât until the early 1900s when surfing began
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78 D DESIGN Surfboards PALM
to see a resurgence in Hawaiâi. George Freeth, who was born on Oâahu, picked up the art at the age of 19, and was among the first to return it to its original form. In the process, he redesigned the 16-foot kikoâo board, cutting its length nearly in half. He rode this board on waves across southern California, including in front of a crowd at Redondo Beach, California, becoming one of the first to promote surfing in the United States. It was around this time that Freeth introduced literary author Jack London, who was visiting WaikÄ«kÄ« with his wife, Charmian, to the sport of kings. In 1907, London wrote A Royal Sport: Surfing in Waikiki, and surfingâs fame spread far and wide.
Freethâs alteration of the kikoâo was followed by Tom Blakeâs reimagining of the surfboard in 1926. That year, Blake, who was born in Wisconsin but lived in Hawaiâi, designed the worldâs first hollow surfboard, a 15-foot-long, 19-inch-wide, 4-inch-thick redwood board. Known as a âcigar,â this new shape weighed only 100 pounds, considerably less than its peers, and slid significantly faster on waves. By 1930, the cigar became the first massproduced surfboard in the world.
Within this decade, board makers began to replace heavier
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82 D DESIGN Surfboards PALM
Computer-aided design, or CAD, software has allowed Jon Pyzel to streamline his shaping process.
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woods with balsa, decreasing their weight by more than half. Shapers also tapered surfboard tails, making them much more hydrodynamic.
In 1935, Blake introduced the fixed tail finâa rudder on the bottom of the boardâwhich gave a surfer more stability and maneuverability on a wave. This innovation was a game changer, especially in waves of consequence, where stability was paramount. Two years later, Hawaiâi surfers John Kelly and Wally Froiseth invented the âhot curl,â a narrow-tailed version of the common balsa plank that got surfers closer to the wave face and its peeling curl.
But the 1940s brought the most pivotal changes. Technological advancements made during World War II, and the invention of fiberglass, plastics, and Styrofoam, propelled surfboards into the future.
In 1946, Pete Peterson made the first board encased in fiberglass with a redwood stringer, which not only strengthened the boards, but also allowed riders more speed and control. By the late 1950s, the waves themselves became a catalytic force behind innovation, as big wave surfers joined those in the islands to ride the giant Hawaiian winter swells at breaks like Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach, and MÄkaha. George Downing developed a longer, narrower design suited for the North Shoreâs massive, steep wave faces, creating the modern âgun.â
In the 1960s, as surfboards became lighter, surf culture and competition spread around the world. Boards became smaller, sparking the advent of the shortboard. In 1966, Australian Nat Young won the World Surfing Championships on a shortboard designed by George Greenough and Bob McTavish. At half the size of the normal longboards at the time, these boards enabled riders to turn more quickly and sharply, generating greater speed and maneuverability
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84 D DESIGN Surfboards
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Tom âPohakuâ Stone carefully chooses the right wooden plank and says a blessing before fashioning it into a traditional Hawaiian surfboard.
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on waves. Shapers were soon experimenting with the fins and tails of these smaller craft. In 1972, Native Hawaiian shaper Ben Aipa developed the swallowtail, a split-tail innovation that increased the boardâs response to turns; nearly a decade later, Simon Anderson invented the threefin thruster, a fin setup still considered the standard for shortboards today.
Although surfboards have changed only slightly in appearance since the late 1980s, shaper Jon Pyzel believes that the subtle changes have been influential. âItâs more of a shift in thinking about surfboards than in a total aesthetic change,â says Pyzel, whose boards are favorites of current world champion and North Shore local, John John Florence. âFor instance, years ago, Kelly Slater introduced the idea of surfing smaller boards in bigger waves.â
Within the last 20 years, surfboards have become even more technical, with the help of computer-aided design software, or CAD. This has also cut down on the hours required in the shaping process. âThe machine is the way to get to what you have in mind quicker,â Pyzel says. âThis has even shifted my own creative process. With the CAD program, instead of outlining the board by hand, like I once did, Iâm looking at a computer screen and bending curves or changing dimensions, which I can then save for future models. Now, I can have an idea, plug it into my laptop, shape it that afternoon, have it glassed and ready to ride a couple days later.â
With every surfboard shape over the decades, that ineffable feeling of âthe slideâ has been perpetuated. According to Stone, some trends are even hearkening to the past. In the 1990s, surfers started whipping into monstrous 20- to 50-foot waves, towing in with jet skis. But by the mid-2000s, pioneering surfers like Greg Long, Mark Healey, and Shane Dorian did the inconceivable, trading in motorized watercraft for paddling power and larger boards reminiscent of Tom Blakeâs 1920s style, and dropping in unaided on the biggest waves. âThe modern gun, the type theyâre using out at places like Peâahi [on Maui], is just a version of the kÄ«oe- and kikoâo-style boards,â Stone says.
No matter how surfboards have evolved over the years, those who slide do not stop. The divine feeling has been passed on, and the surfboardâin any of its everchanging shapesâis the vessel that delivers the sensation.
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86 D DESIGN Surfboards
PALM
With every surfboard design over the decades, that ineffable feeling of âthe slideâ has been perpetuated. No matter how surfboards have evolved over the years, those who slide do not stop.
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Tides of Change
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Text by Timothy A. Schuler
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88 D DESIGN Seawalls PALM
For years, conventional wisdom held that armoring coastlines was the only way to keep the sea at bay. Today, a softerâbut no less scientificâtouch reveals otherwise.
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âSave Our Surf,â the sign read, big yellow letters on green-painted plywood. â NO MORE SEAWALLS .â
It was late September 2016, and protesters lined Honoapiâilani Highway on Mauiâs west shore, waving and throwing shakas at the stream of cars passing by. The highway that the crowd stood on was falling into the sea, the result of poor planning combined with decades of pounding surf. Erosion has plagued Hawaiâiâs beaches since the beginning of the 20th century, much
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90 D DESIGN Seawalls
PALM
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Opposite: Kailua Beachâs native dune vegetation has helped protect against erosion. Above: The Seawall at Cromwellâs Beach was built by Doris Duke in 1937 and fronts the Doris Duke Center for Islamic Artsâ museum Shangri La.
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of it caused, or complicated, by the âhardeningâ of the coastline: shoring up land with concrete seawalls, creating harbors and lagoons with stone revetments.
In Olowalu, waves lapped at the crumbling concrete along Honoapiâilani Highway and occasionally, during storms and large swells, crashed on the road itself. To protect drivers and beachgoers, the Hawaiâi Department of Transportation planned to construct a 900-footlong seawall along the road. But members of MÄlama Olowalu, a community group dedicated to preserving this culturally significant portion of Mauiâs western shoreline, which was a puâuhonua, or place of refuge, wanted the state to explore other options. The group argued that a seawall, while fortifying the road for a time, would ultimately fail. In the more immediate future, it would destroy what little of the beach remained. The surf break would disappear, as would the Hawaiian monk seals.
Among mankindâs many shortsighted solutions, seawalls sit somewhere near the top. The first seawalls were built by the Romans, who used pozzolanic ash to form concrete with saltwater. Since then, largely in response to coastal erosion, seawalls have been constructed around the world. Hawaiâiâs first marine structuresâincluding seawalls (which run parallel to shore) and groins (which are perpendicular to shore)â appeared in WaikÄ«kÄ« in the late 1800s.
But a seawall only works insofar as you only care about the hundred feet of ocean frontage of a property. And really, they arenât worth it even then. While seawalls can succeed in protecting inland structures for a time, they sever the natural exchange of sand and sediment that feeds a healthy beachâwithin just a few years, all traces of it can disappear. The Lanikai Beach coastline on Oâahuâs eastside is a perfect example. As homeowners have built seawalls to keep the sea at bay, the beach, which once stretched from Wailea Point to Alala, has shrunk considerably, to just 10 percent of what once existed. You can see the damage: Along the armored areas, the sand is almost completely gone.
This erosion problem posed by seawalls also tends to get washed down shore. As George Atta, Honoluluâs former director of city planning explained it, constructing a seawall creates a domino effect. âWe are very well aware
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92 D DESIGN Seawalls
PALM
Opposite: A model by Wendy Meguro, an assistant professor at University of Hawaiâi School of Architecture, represents a sandy beach with high wave energy, similar to Sunset Beach on Oâahuâs North Shore. It depicts a living shoreline, which mitigates coastal hazards by integrating habitat restoration techniques, coastal engineering, and conservation. Above: A seawall at Lanikai Beach on Oâahuâs east side.
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that once we start one seawall, we will probably end up with a line of them in 20 years,â he said in 2014.
In Hawaiâi, it didnât take long to see that seawalls werenât an ideal solution. As early as 1917, the territoryâs Board of Harbor Commissioners prohibited the building of seawalls in response to the dramatic loss of sand in WaikÄ«kÄ«. This was largely ignored. Homeowners and hotels built barriers, and bulldozed coastal dunes to create unobstructed views.
The world has changed somewhat since then. Hawaiâi now requires an environmental assessment and public input before it will issue permits for a new seawall. (At the same time, it has acknowledged that some coastal armoring must be done to protect critical infrastructure like roads, or economic engines like WaikÄ«kÄ« Beach.) But thereâs been another, more alarming shift since 1917: The ocean is higher. While politicians have debated the existence of climate change, sea level in Hawaiâi has, on average, risen by more than half an inch every decade for a century. Thatâs six inches in the past 100 years alone. âAs sea-level rise has progressed, and weâve had more and more beach erosion, the foundations [of seawalls] that were once buried are now exposed,â says Mike Foley, a coastal engineer at Oceanit, a Honolulu-based technology and engineering company. âOnce that happens, itâs just a matter of time until these structures fail.â
Many of the worldâs most progressive designers and engineers know that they must work with, not against, nature. In the wake of Superstorm Sandy, which battered New York City with a record 14-foot storm surge and killed more than 100 people, the city invested in new forms of protective infrastructure, including public parks designed as buffer zones and an artificial oyster reef that can attenuate waves. In these and other waterfront projects, the goal is to design defenses that serve other functions, too. Hunterâs Point South Waterfront Park in Queens, for instance, acts as a giant sponge during a storm, absorbing rainfall and protecting inland neighborhoods from flooding. The rest of the year, itâs simply a great park.
Such strategies are part of a growing interest in what are sometimes called âliving shorelines,â which are coastal areas that have been restored to more natural conditions, or are manmade but use native ecosystems to provide a âlivingâ buffer against storm surge and sealevel rise.
Tara Owens, a coastal hazards specialist with Maui County and the University of Hawaiâiâs Sea Grant College,
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96 D DESIGN Seawalls
PALM
says dune restoration is one of the cheapest and most effective ways to create a living shoreline. âDunes provide a lot of ecosystem services, like protecting development from high-wave events,â Owens says. They also protect beaches. Maui has lost at least four miles of beach over the past hundred years, more than Oâahu or Kauaâi. In 2003, Maui was the first county in Hawaiâi to pass an ordinance prohibiting the destruction of a frontal dune. On the island, dune restoration projects led largely by volunteers are rehabilitating habitats and enhancing the recreational value of the beaches they line.
While coastal armor may continue to be necessary in places like WaikÄ«kÄ«, where failing to repair seawalls and groins would result in a dramatically different beach, living shorelines are gaining traction. In the summer of 2016, the Army Corps of Engineers proposed a new general permit that would authorize such naturebased systems. Around the same time, a report from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration highlighted the economic and environmental benefits of living shorelines, as well as hybrid modelsâthat is, using seawalls in concert with ecological strategies.
Even seawalls can be designed to play a role in the native ecosystem, Foley says. Itâs often just a matter of adding nooks and crannies that will attract marine life. This underwater variation encourages the growth of algae and coral, which, in turn, brings fish and octopus.
âYou basically design for the ecology to take over,â he says. Besides the ecological benefits, this hybrid approach could prove cost-effective, reducing a seawallâs size (and therefore, its price tag) while simultaneously extending its lifespan. âAt Oceanit, we come up with ideas and we build prototypes,â Foley says. âWhat needs to happen, in order to [see] innovation in seawall design, is we need to test some of these prototypes in the ocean.â
In many ways, the islands are an ideal laboratory in which to assess these ideas. They are home not only to some of the most renowned marine researchers on the planet, but also, a highly engaged public. Hawaiâi has the opportunity to pave the way. Says Foley, âMy goal is to make Hawaiâi a leader in this area.â
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98 D DESIGN Seawalls
PALM
Coastal armoring may continue to be necessary in places like Waikīkī, where failing to repair seawalls and groins would result in a dramatically different beach, but there are economic and environmental benefits of hybrid models that use seawalls in conjunction with ecologically based strategies.
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Songs from the Trees
Photographed on location in the living puâuhonua, place of peace and safety, of Waimea Valley.
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ììŽë©ì í곡ì íììŽ, ë ìžê³ì ìŒë¡ ìŽììë ížâì°ížëì(ííë¡ê³ ìì í ê³³)ì
ëë€. ììŽë©ì í곡ì êµì¡ê³Œ êŽëŠ¬ë¥Œ íµíŽ ì¬ëë€, 묞í ë ìì°ì ìž ì ì°ì 볎졎íë ë°ì íì êž°ìžìŽê³ ììµëë€. ë ììží ëŽì©ì waimeavalley.net ì íµíŽì íìžíì€ ì ììµëë€.
Images by Melanie Tjoeng
Styled by Ara Feducia
Hair by Holly Tomita, HMB Studios
Hair by Risa Hoshino
Modeled by Brittany Valverde & Cheyne Kalai
Scotch & Soda quilted bomber jacket and paisley button-down, Bloomingaleâs.
The picturesque upper meadow at Waimea Valley is surrounded by the Ogasawara Islands flora collection, which consists of 40 thriving species endemic to the Japanese islands situated south of the countryâs main archipelago. The Ogasawara Islands are a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the flora collection at Waimea is the only other place in the world that these plants can be seen.
Parker floral jacket and dress, Bloomingdaleâs; bone beads necklace, Olive & Oliver; Sophie Anderson straw box bag, Intermix; Albion 27mm gold metallic Swiss quartz watch, David Yurman.
Sonia Rykiel silk top, Bloomingdaleâs; Lizzie Fortunato tassel earrings, Intermix.
Wild peacocks have long been familiar sights around Waimea Valley. In the 1970s, then-owner Charlie Pietsch, Jr. opened Waimea Valleyâs restaurant, The Proud Peacock, so named by Pietschâs daughter, who was inspired by the brilliantly colored fowl that roamed the area. Today, Waimea Valley is home to two males.
Faherty flannel shirt, Olive & Oliver; T-shirt, Salvage Public; Joeâs Jeans white pants, Bloomingdaleâs; Cable Classic narrow cuff bracelet in 18k gold, David Yurman.
Alexander Wang top and skirt, Bloomingdaleâs; Sculpted Cable earrings in 18k gold, Continuance drop earring with diamonds in 18k gold, Albion ring with champagne citrine and diamonds with 18k gold, all from David Yurman.
Brixton felt hat, IRO.JEANS shirt, and Bella Dahl quilted bomber jacket, Bloomingdaleâs.
Miguelina denim top and skirt, and bone beads necklace, Olive & Oliver.
Waimea Valleyâs Araceae gardens contain herbaceous, or non-woody, plants of the Araceae family, which often display striking foliage and unusual flowers and are found in tropical rainforests around the world.
Bloomingdaleâs
Ala Moana Center
Mall Level 2, Ewa Wing
Intermix
International Market Place
Level 1, Queenâs Court
David Yurman
Ala Moana Center
Mall Level 2, Center Court
Olive & Oliver
Surfjack Hotel & Swim Club
412 Lewers St.
Salvage Public
South Shore Market
1170 Auahi St.
T-shirt, Salvage Public; Rag & Bone straw hat, Bloomingdaleâs.
Travel
ES CA PES
experiences
both faraway and familiar
113
PALM E ãšã¹ã±ãŒã
The Perfect Weekend in Seville
Text and Images by IJfke
Ridgley
114 E ESCAPES Seville PALM
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Blood-red and saffron colored colonials. The saltiness of jamón Serrano. The flip of a ruffled flamenco skirt. The capital of AndalucÃa has a way of burning its images in your mind and heart. And at only three hours away from Madrid via high-speed train, there is no excuse to stay away from Seville. é®®çãªèµ€ãšãµãã©ã³è²ãæ ãããã³ããã¢ã«èª¿ã®å»ºç¯ãå¡©æ°ã®å©ãã ãã¢ã³ã»ã»ã©ãŒãã®é¢šå³ããã©ã¡ã³ã³ãã³ãµãŒã®ã¹ã«ãŒããã²ãããã ç¬éãã¢ã³ãã«ã·ã¢ã®å·éœã»ããªã¢ã¯ã蚪ãã人ã®å¿ã«é·ãæ®ãæ°ã
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Nestled in the arid countryside of southern Spain, Seville is a city that packs a punch. As the capital of AndalucÃa province, it manages to feel small but live large, due in part to its historical mix of cultures and architecture, as well as the localsâ strong adherence to tradition. If Madrid is the nationâs hulking metropolis filled with endless neighborhoods and museums, and Barcelona its international artsy cousin, Seville feels like the Spain youâve been imagining. Spending a weekend here is a must: This is the Spain of flamenco and bullfights, tapas and Catholic churches. The locals are fiery, the lunches are long, the siestas are even longer, and there is rarely a rainy day.
The sweet scent of orange blossoms fills Sevilleâs air in the spring, when the weather is not yet scorching, and the most famous holiday celebrations commence. Sevilleâs Easter week festivities, known as Semana Santa, or Holy Week, are known the world over, and have been observed for centuries. During this exciting time, thousands of people take to the streets to watch elaborately decorated floats carried from small neighborhood churches to the main cathedral. While the mood is somber and emotional during Semana Santa, the city livens up a few weeks later for La Feria de Abril. Hundreds of tents line the cityâs edge for this fair, during which Sevillian families dress in colorful, traditional Andalusian attire, and spend the week eating, drinking, and dancing.
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ëë€. 116 E ESCAPES Seville
Seville has a rich history, with each ruling group leaving its imprint on the culture and architecture of this Spanish gem. The area served as an important city to the Romans, beginning around 200 BC, and was later ruled by the Moors for 500 years, until they were overthrown by Spanish Christians. After Christopher Columbus arrived in America in the 15th century, Seville became the center of trade relations with the New World, as well as one of Spainâs wealthiest cities.
Today, Roman, Moorish, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo styles still mix together beautifully here, providing a perfect setting for endless sightseeing. And since Sevillians rarely entertain in the house, the
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118 E ESCAPES Seville
PALM
lively culture takes to the streets: Old señoras walk hand in hand through alleys, teenagers and study-abroad students drink in plazas, and children accompany their parents for tapas late into the night. You could spend a year poking around Sevilleâs plazas and still not experience it all. But if you only have a weekend, here is an itinerary that highlights some of the cityâs bestkept secrets.
DAY 1:
Begin your first day in Seville with a breakfast of churros y chocolate, fried dough sticks sprinkled with sugar and dipped in hot chocolate as thick as pudding. Join the locals at any corner café on almost any plaza, such as any popular La CenturÃa in Plaza de la Encarnación. Then, start sightseeing early (before the long lines and mid-day sun) at the Moorish palace Real Alcázar de Sevilla. The cityâs architecture still reflects its Islamic roots at sites ranging from the Torre del Oroâa watchtower sitting on the bank of the Guadalquivir river, what is left of the Moorish walls that enclosed the cityâto the Casa de Pilatos, a private palace built in Italian Renaissance and Spanish Moorish styles. But itâs the stunning Real Alcázar that is truly the gem of Moorish architecture. Dizzying tile mosaics and plasterwork as delicate as lace showcase the beauty of Islamic design. If you are visiting in the summer, the palace hosts an open-air evening concert series in the surrounding gardens that makes for a magical experience. It is a crime to come to Seville and not see some flamenco, a fusion of traditions that arose from Moors, Jews, and Roma living in AndalucÃa. Developed around 200 years ago, flamenco is a style of music featuring a single soulful singer accompanied by guitar, clapping, and a matching style of dance with stomping footwork and intricate hand movements. While there are plenty of tourists (and locals!) awaiting the performance at La CarbonerÃa, it makes for a passionate affair in a lively atmosphere. The rustic terrace fills up quickly for the free performance at 10:30 p.m., hosted by local talent in traditional dress. For more spontaneous flamenco, check out the bars in the Triana neighborhoodâLa Taberna is a favoriteâwhere locals put on impromptu performances while the whole bar claps along.
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120 E ESCAPES Seville
The Gothic Seville Cathedral is the third-largest church in the world.
The Metropol Parasol in La Encarnación square.
DAY 2:
Head back to the city center to the massive Seville Cathedral, a must-see ode to Gothic architecture. Filled with floor-to-ceiling ornate gold décor, this cathedral holds the tomb of Christopher Columbus and provides access to the Moorish bell tower, La Giralda, which offers views of the entire city. Or, if youâre feeling adventurous, and happen to be visiting Seville between April and October, you could score tickets to a bullfight. While the controversy surrounding bullfighting has grown in Spainâand the custom is definitely not for the faint of heartâit is nevertheless a part of Spanish culture and deserves a mention. Seville has a long tradition of bullfighting, and its ring, Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, is one of the most beautiful in the country. Locals come to watch the best toreros, or bullfighters, showcase their skills, so be sure to book tickets well in advance. In the El Arenal neighborhood, behind the bullfighting ring, you will find Calle Gamazo, a street with some of the oldest bars in the city that serve classic tapas amid traditional décor. Tapas dominate the restaurant scene in Seville, and nearly every street corner has a cozy eatery serving these bite-sized snacks. Try La Eslava, off the Plaza de San Lorenzo, where award-winning tapas are served in a more contemporary setting.
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122 E ESCAPES Seville
PALM
DAY 3:
Spend day three like a local, wandering the twisting alleys of the Macarena district, where neighborhood bars, corner bodegas, and cobblestone streets offer charming sights at every turn. Along the way, pop into quaint churches with unassuming exteriors that belie ornate interiors filled with Catholic iconography, gilded altars, and the floats used during Semana Santa. For lunch, join the locals at nearby Mercado de Feria, an open-air market with vendors selling fruits, vegetables, and fresh fish. The beautifully renovated warehouse also has a bar and stalls serving everything from paella to sushi to Tex-Mex after 1:30 p.m. daily. Pick up a drink and tapa combo for just under $4. An evening stroll and cordial at an outdoor terrace is a must when in Spain, and there is no better way to beat the heat than to order a tinto de verano. A lighter version of sangria, this unlikely mix of red table wine and lemon-lime soda makes for a surprisingly refreshing beverage. Head to La Alameda, where you will find back-to-back bars and a lively bohemian crowd in the plaza, or to Calle Betis for drinks along the river.
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126 E ESCAPES Seville
PALM
A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO TAPAS IN SEVILLE
Salmorejo: You may have heard of gazpachoâa chunky tomato soup served coldâbut the southern province of AndalucÃa is better known for its salmorejo, a thicker, smoother version of gazpacho topped with hard-boiled egg, ham, and a dash of olive oil.
Jamón: It is impossible to overlook the ubiquitous pig legs hanging from ceilings or propped up on the counters of nearly every taperÃa, where the dry-cured ham is served in long thin slices. Try either jamón Serrano, which comes from white pigs, or jamón Ibérico, which comes from black Iberian pigs and is cured for a longer period of time.
Croquetas: Made in every Spanish household and found in every taperÃa, croquetas are rounds made of any number of fillingsâmost commonly a béchamel sauce with jamón Serranoâthat are breaded and deep-fried in olive oil.
Gambas al ajillo: This garlic shrimp dish is a truly classic Spanish tapa. Order extra bread to soak up the bath of garlic and olive oil.
Tortilla Española: Who would think that three simple ingredientsâpotatoes, onion, and eggâwould yield such a satisfying result? This dense omelet can be found all over Spain, and is usually served cold in thick slices.
Solomillo al whisky: This is one of the most typically Sevillian tapas you can order. Pork tenderloin and generous amounts of garlic cloves are cooked in a buttery cognac sauce and served on a bed of fries.
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128 E ESCAPES Seville PALM
Small Town Charm
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130 E ESCAPES Kauaâi PALM
While Kauaâi is known for its natural wonders, the islandâs laidback locals contribute to the Garden Isleâs enchanting sense of place.
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If you live on Oâahu, it can be easy to overlook the unique experiences found on the neighbor islands. While traveling abroad can be burdensomeâwhere to house the pets (or the kids), how to steal away from work for an extended period, who to have water the plantsâa weekend staycation offers the perfect getaway. Northwest of Oâahu, a quick 50-minute flight away, lies the picturesque island of Kauaâi, where the authentic beauty of natural and built landmarks make for one of the most extraordinary places in the world. But it is the small towns of Kauaâi that hold the most charm. On the south and west sides, you will find quaint hidden gems owned by laidback locals eager to share their passions.
Cowboy Up in Kalaheo
On most days, Kahaleo, a small town on Kauaâiâs south shore, is relatively quiet. Itâs the kind of place where running into someone you know at Kalaheo Café,
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132 E ESCAPES Kauaâi
PALM
Aloha Exchange boutique specializes in quality surf and skate goods from Hawaiâi and around the United States.
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the areaâs central coffee shop, is inevitable; where itâs not at all uncommon to see hunters casually riding down the highway on horseback. It is out of this relaxed lifestyle that individuals have risen up to create businesses around their passions.
Just five minutes before you hit Kalaheo, in the town of LÄwaâi, is Monkeypod Jam, a café owned by Aletha Thomas, a certified master food preserver who became known at farmers markets around Kauaâi for her more than 50 varieties of jams, jellies, marmalades, curds, butters, and saucesâall of which use Kauaâigrown produce. Though you can still find Monkeypod Jam at the farmers markets on Wednesday at The Shops at Kukuiâula and Saturday at Kauaâi Community College, you wonât want to miss out on the caféâs signature baked treats. Keep an eye out for the caféâs workshops, which, in the past, have included making pasta with Sheraton Kauaâiâs executive chef Michael Young and bagels with Kauaâi bagelry Ya Quddus.
For unique, island-made goods, check out Warehouse 3540, whose owners, Ariana and Ty Owen, transformed an aluminum and glass repository into a chic, rustic marketplace where artisans congregate to sell their homemade goods, like lovingly crafted clothing, scented candles, and soaps, as well as crowd-pleasing treats like Kauaâimade salsa, honey, and jams. Most days of the week, Warehouse 3540 hosts a food truck or two serving delicious eats. A local favorite is
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134 E ESCAPES Kauaâi
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Scorpacciata, which serves on-the-spot gourmet pizzas. For dessert, or midday refreshment, The Fresh Shave provides cool treats made with fresh local fruit and finely shaved ice.
Less than two miles from Warehouse 3540 is surf and skate boutique Aloha Exchange, which specializes in quality goods from Hawaiâi and around the United States. Tired of the sameness they saw in many surf industry brands, owners Nathan Metzger and Jamie Dillberg envisioned Aloha Exchange as an opportunity to think outside the box. âWe have more of a family attitude about the brands we carry and the people we work with,â Dillberg says. âTheyâre brands that create the highest quality possible, so itâs not just a throwaway product.â
The Biggest Little Town of HanapÄpÄ
A sleepy, relaxed vibe permeates Kauaâiâs south shore haven of HanapÄpÄ. Unlike most local towns built to accommodate the booming sugar plantations in the 1880s, HanapÄpÄ was established by entrepreneurial immigrants who left the plantations to seek freedom from such an arduous lifestyle.
Today, HanapÄpÄ (which translates to âcrushed bay,â presumably for the valleyâs historical landslides) is an eclectic town, shaped by its varied history. Locals with
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138 E ESCAPES Kauaâi
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generations-deep roots mix with recent transplants, and entrepreneurs in industries ranging from rare books to raw shrimp work alongside one another. Historical bridges and buildings are maintained, and traditions stand the test of time.
For breakfast, head to Little Fish Coffee on HanapÄpÄ Road for freshly baked sticky buns, croissants, and handbrewed Kaâu coffee. Take a stroll down the street to the HanapÄpÄ Swinging Bridge. A surprising sight, this long, narrow suspension bridge was constructed in the early 1900s and restored after Hurricane Iniki. Peruse the art scene at the independent art galleries along HanapÄpÄ Road, including marbling artist Becky Woldâs gallery, The Art of Marbling. For authentic Hawaiian jewelry, go to JJ Ohana, which looks like a convenience store, but houses a separate room with a large jewelry selection, including a wide variety of beautiful and rare Niâihau shell jewelry.
If you are sticking around past morning, head 1.6 miles away from the townâs main strip to visit the unique wonder of the HanapÄpÄ Salt Ponds. These large earthen plots of land, where natural sea salt is still harvested today, are among only two such areas in the islands (the other is Puâuhonua o Honaunau on Hawaiâi Island). Head back to HanapÄpÄ Road and stop at Talk Story Bookstore. Located in a former general store, this bookloverâs paradise boasts Kauaâiâs largest selection of new, secondhand, and out-of-print books. Trade in old reads for credit, get lost in shelves of fiction, and donât forget to ask about their kamaâÄina discount.
Wonder of Waimea
Before you wind your way up Highway 550, also known as Waimea Canyon Drive, letâs get one thing straight: Though it has been passed around on the coconut wireless (and Internet), Mark Twain never wrote of Kauaâi, hence he never dubbed Waimea Canyon âThe Grand Canyon of the Pacific.â Even if the famed author had visited the Garden Isle, as he certainly should have, Arizonaâs Grand Canyon wasnât given its iconic name until 1871, five years after Twain set foot in the islands. That being said, Waimea Canyon has had at least one famous visitor: The same year that the Grand Canyon was so christened, Queen Emma traversed from Waimea Town on horseback all the way to Alakaâi Swamp in the highlands of Kauaâi with musicians, hula dancers, retainers, and companions in tow. It is at this bog-scattered rainforest plateau that the Waimea River originates, fed by rainfall from nearby Mount Waiâaleâale, one of the wettest spots on Earth.
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The actual name of Kauaâiâs gorge, Waimea, means âreddish water,â a fitting description and name that applies to the canyon, the river, the town on the coast, and the nearby bay where freshwater meets Pacific Ocean. Waimea River gets its color from the landâs red dirt, and runs along the base of the canyon, which is 3,600 feet deep, 1 mile wide, and 10 miles long. Viewpoints along its rim offer sights of waterfalls resplendent. Near the end of the road, at KÅkeâe State Park, visitors can even peer into fertile Kalalau Valley. Nature holds sway here, be it endemic acacia koa and âÅhiâa lehua, or Japanese sugi cedars and redwoods planted in the early 1900s. Native honeycreepers occasionally dart between trees. While Waimea Canyon itself remains relatively untouched, nearby, at the seaport town of Waimea, local businesses provide visitors and residents with necessities like coffee, poke, and cocktails. Beaches, also in close proximity, offer the ideal viewpoint to watch the sun go down from the westernmost populated island in the Hawaiian island chain.
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142 E ESCAPES Kauaâi
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After meeting in the kitchen of acclaimed New York City restaurant
Per Se, chefs Anthony Rush and Chris Kajioka introduce a spontaneous culinary concept in Honolulu.
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Itâs a busy Saturday morning in Honoluluâs Chinatown.
Sidewalks are decorated with vibrant produce that overflows from storefronts. A couple blocks away, chefs Anthony Rush and Chris Kajioka emerge from Senia, their culinary brainchild, which is housed in a historic building constructed in 1886, one of few that survived the Chinatown fire of 1900. Rush and Kajioka are taking well to their new restaurant digs, and are getting to know their community. Today, they busy themselves sifting through an abundance of produce from the area markets in search of ingredients for their eclectic menu.
âI call it foraging, because we donât always know exactly what weâre looking for,â Rush says. âWeâre open to using anything interesting. We forage up in the forest behind Honolulu, too,
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Chefs Anthony Rush and Chris Kajioka showcase sophisticated fare in a more laid-back environment at Senia in Honoluluâs Chinatown.
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and recently gathered white ginger for infusing sushi vinegar.â
Kajioka stops to pick up a bulb, which he suspects is narcissus. He examines it closely, then eyes the Chinese characters written over the bin. He inquires with the woman overseeing the shop. âItâs edible,â she assures. Kajioka says theyâll use the bulb in a dish. âBut weâre not sure what yet. Itâll be fun to experiment.â
Senia, which debuted in December 2016, is the culmination of two careers that evolved as both chefs refined their crafts. Born in the United Kingdom, Rush honed his skills at Michelin-starred restaurants including The French Laundry in Napa Valley and The Fat Duck and Le Champignon Sauvage in England. Kajioka, who was born and raised on Oâahu, graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and worked at Ron Siegelâs Dining Room at the RitzCarlton and Aziza in San Francisco, before heading home to be executive chef at Vintage Cave, where deliriously extravagant food pairings showed off his master culinary technique.
The two chefs had first crossed paths in 2007 in the kitchen of Thomas Kellarâs Per Se in New York City, where Rush was sous chef and the pair worked side by side. It was also here where they met Katherine Nomura, who accepted a front of house position after graduating from Columbia University with a masterâs degree in nutrition. Nomura would later become Rushâs wife and Seniaâs general manager.
Though they both went in different directions after leaving Per Se, the two chefs kept in touch. So when Rush heard Kajioka was working on a new concept, he immediately threw in his chefâs hat. Despite their refined culinary
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training, Rush and Kajioka both longed for a place where they could showcase sophisticated fare in a more laid-back environment. âOur backgrounds are primarily in fine dining, but our goal was to offer food that people want to eat every day, plus what we want to eat when we go out,â Rush says. They also hoped to be able to mingle with guests and form relationships. âWe wanted to make Senia a neighborhood restaurant that would become part of the community,â Kajioka adds. âWe want it to be a place where people come in and know each other, and know us, too.â
Senia offers two distinct experiences in one space. The main dining room features seasonal fare, but a relatively stable menu. For an even more spontaneous experience, diners can sit at the chefâs table, which faces an open kitchen and comes with a tasting menu that changes frequently. âThis enables us to interact with our guests,â Kajioka says. âItâs a great way for us to see the people and talk to everyone.â
The creations at Senia inspire conversation and evoke excitement, often combining a familiar local element with unique ingredients that will be new to most palates. The menu offers large plates to share, like char siu-glazed, bone-in pork belly, venison Wellington with horseradish jus, and local snapper. Then there are smaller plates like zaâatar grilled tako, bone marrow with beef cheek marmalade and Hawaiian sweet bread, and smoked salmon with buttermilk onion rings. The wine list is extensive, and the cocktails full of personality. Nomura developed the drinks and named them after friends, like the Kaji, made of pineapple and spice-infused vodka, and the Lydia, a combo of gin, bitter spirits, elderflower, and grapefruit.
âOur inspiration comes from everywhere and anywhere,â says Rush, who, having returned to Senia after foraging in the Chinatown markets, shakes up a Kaji, then tops it off with charred sugarcane that he picked up on the way. âWe start thinking and sharing ideas with each other, and they snowball. The best food comes from collaboration.â
For more information, visit restaurantsenia.com.
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Building for Generations
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Text by Lynn Kenton
Images courtesy of MK
Deeply rooted in the foundations of Hawaiâiâs trend-setting real estate development projects is a three-generation legacy of business leaders grounded in unwavering family values, impeccable standards, and shared drives for excellence.
In the residential condominium sector, Hokua, Capitol Place, ONE Ala Moana, and Park Lane Ala Moana share the bond of having been built by two local families who have led their industries for decades, and who share the common vision of shaping a Hawaiâi landscape amenable to the community.
Duncan MacNaughton, chairman and founder of The MacNaughton Group (TMG), and Bert Kobayashi, Sr., founder and senior advisor of Kobayashi Group (KG), oversee their respective companiesâcollectively known as âMKââwhile encouraging the growing roles of their children. This model is reminiscent of the two patriarchsâ own early years following their parentsâ leading roles in Hawaiâiâs business community.
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151
Inheriting Skill and Savvy
Duncan MacNaughtonâs father, Boyd MacNaughton, began his career in Hawaiâi as vice president of Dole Pineapple, and became president of C. Brewer and Company, one of Hawaiâiâs premier sugar companies. Inheriting his fatherâs business savvy, Duncan began his career at Dillingham Corporation in its property development department. There, he worked on several residential condominium projects. He then went to work for McCormack Corporation, where he was responsible for developing residential projects and smaller retail centers on Oâahu. Years later, Duncan went into business with Richard âDickâ Gushman II, developing numerous projects including Waikele Premium Outlets.
In 1985, Duncan established his own company, which has become known as The MacNaughton Group. The big-box era hit Hawaiâi thanks to MacNaughtonâs entrepreneurial curiosity, leading him to explore this new retail phenomenon, which changed the retail landscape of Hawaiâi and helped lower the cost of living for Hawaiâi residents. Together with his longtime colleagues Jeff Arce and Eric Tema, Duncan introduced to the islands either directly or indirectly Blockbuster, P.F. Changâs, Costco, Borders, Target, Kmart, Pier 1, and Whole Foods, among several others.
Duncan and his colleagues also brought Starbucks and Jamba Juice to the Hawaiâi market. âAlthough it took quite some convincing,â he muses, âmy business partners at Blockbuster Video and I received the nod to become the first U.S.-based, third party-owned and -operated Starbucks.â As it turned out, some of the Starbucks board members knew Duncan and his reputation on the islands, and vouched for his character, helping to seal the deal.
In the last decade, Duncan has been pleased to have two of his three sons join him in the business, bringing with them backgrounds in finance and design.
At the same time that Duncan was learning the business, Bert Kobayashi, Sr. was following closely in the footsteps of his father, Albert Kobayashi, the founder of Hawaiâi general contracting firm Albert C. Kobayashi, Inc. When Bert was in college, his father had become ill, requiring the eldest son to take over the small family business.
Albert C. Kobayashi, Inc. built affordable and workforce housing for decades. By adjusting the company for low and high peaks and addressing the exploding housing needs of Hawaiâiâs families, Bert grew ACK from a company clearing $2 million per year to a company making $125 million annually. When Bert and other stakeholders sold ACK to its employees in 1993, it was the largest locally owned and the third-largest general contractor in the state.
During Bertâs tenure as its chairman and CEO, ACK completed notable projects, such as major renovations of Moana Surfrider, including the Tiffany and Co. and Dunhill luxury retail shops, and the completion of the Turtle Bay Resort.
âI hope my dad would be proud, because every project ACK built was top-quality workmanship, regardless of the price point,â Bert shares. âHe taught me that your word and handshake are golden, and people
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152 MK Pages Generations
PALM
Patrick K. Kobayashi, Partner, President and CEO of Kobayashi Group; Ian MacNaughton, Partner of The MacNaughton Group; Bert âBJâ A. Kobayashi, Jr., Co-Founder and Partner of Kobayashi Group.
Alana Kobayashi Pakkala, Partner and Executive Vice President of Kobayashi Group; Brett MacNaughton, Director, Development and Design of The MacNaughton Group.
Artist rendering of Park Lane.
have to trust that you say what you mean.â
Following the sale of ACK, Bert refocused his efforts on real estate development and investment. His next company became Kobayashi Group, where Bertâs three children and longtime COO Kathy Inouye now lead the real estate and investment firm. Significant projects have included Kapolei Kai in West Oâahu, Napili Villages in West Maui, and KÅ«kiâo Golf and Beach Club in Kona on Hawaiâi Island.
Today, The MacNaughton Group and Kobayashi Group offer a full range of real estate development services to clients in the residential, commercial, healthcare, hospitality, and government industries.
Collaboration Begins
Expanding their company portfolios, Duncan MacNaughton and Bert Kobayashi, Sr. first brought their business acumen together in the 1990s. Introduced by Mitch DâOlier, then president and CEO of Victoria Ward Centers, The MacNaughton Group and Kobayashi Group were tapped as the best in their class to build the iconic Hokua at 1288 Ala Moana condominium tower at Queen Street and Ala Moana Boulevard.
âI wanted a residential tower with street presence and a design sensitive to the community for the Diamond Head end of Ward,â DâOlier reminisces. âI was confident these two men and their teams would deliver, and they did, meeting all my expectations.â
The synergy of MK was confirmed with the success of the sold-out and award-winning Hokua. Buyers were attracted to the high-quality design and construction of the luxury residences within an urban setting, as well as the âResidential Specialistâ concierge conceptâthe first of its kind to be introduced in the islands.
Continued Achievements
MKâs second success was Capitol Place, which offers spacious, modern living with outstanding indoor and outdoor amenitiesâall in the heart of downtown Honolulu. Next was ONE Ala Moana, distinguished as the first residential high-rise adjacent to the world-famous Ala Moana Center and recognized as the 2016 Building of the Year â High-Rise: 100-249 Units by the Institute of Real Estate Management Hawaii.
MKâs current collaboration, Park Lane Ala Moana, is scheduled to welcome its first phase of residents in April 2017. Its combination of single-family living with condominium security and ease, paired with resort services and amenitiesâall in a low-rise spanning seven acres, with more than 600 trees and 300 art piecesâtruly requires no compromises.
Future Leaders
Duncan MacNaughton and Bert Kobayashi, Sr., together with several of their children and other business associates, continue to carry their companies into the next generation, grounded in strong family values and a love for Hawaiâi.
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154 MK Pages Generations
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Bert A. Kobayashi Sr., Founder and Senior Advisor of Kobayashi Group, and Duncan MacNaughton, Chairman of The MacNaughton Group.
Calling Hawaiâi Home
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Text by Lynn Kenton
Whether they were born in the Hawaiian Islands or drawn to this extraordinary place later in life, for these distinguished individuals whose influences extend across Oâahu, Hawaiâi, and the world, the 50th state is a place that has captured their hearts.
Entwined in each of their stories is not only a shared drive for excellence, but also the common thread of family and community. These successful leaders balance the head and the heart, perpetuating what is uniquely Hawaiâi: aloha. The following freeflowing discussions reveal why each has chosen to call the islands home.
Jenai Sullivan Wall
Current : Foodland Super Market, Ltd., Chairperson and CEO âIolani School Board of Governors, Chair
The Queenâs Health Systems, Trustee
When an Irish immigrant serving as a WWII U.S. Army Air Force sergeant was sourcing produce for the officersâ mess hall at Hickam, and stumbled onto the market that Jenai Sullivan Wallâs grandparents owned in Lanikai, on Oâahuâs windward side, it sparked the beginning of Foodland Super Market, Ltd.
After the end of the war, this man, Maurice J. âSullyâ Sullivan, partnered with the family, opening Hawaiâiâs first supermarket in 1948. Ten years later, he and Wallâs mother, Joanna Lau, were married. Wall was born and raised in Hawaiâi, and attended Punahou School. In 1987, after college and graduate school on the mainland, the young Wall returned home from the mainland after college and graduate school with her husband, Roger Wall, a native of New York.
The duo committed to Wallâs parents that they would live in Hawaiâi and work in the family business for two years. Thirty years later, under the pairâs leadership, the Sullivan Family
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of Companies now boasts more than 150 retail stores across nine states. Along the way, Wall has earnestly perpetuated her parentsâ love for Hawaiâi and their legacy of giving back to the community that treated them so well. Wall hopes that our future Hawaiâi will be a more self sustainable community, where all the unique, special things we love about Hawaiâi will not only remain, but thrive.
An advocate for Hawaiâiâs efforts toward selfsufficiency, Wall supports the communityâs renewed interest in locally sourced goods, such as meats, eggs, and especially, produce, and envisions Foodland offering more locally grown and produced items. Her daughter, Alana Wall, shares this vision, working closely with local produce farmers and purchasing from their crops, just as her beloved grandfather Sully did during his first days in the islands.
Ray Vara
Current :
Hawaiâi Pacific Health, President and CEO Bank of Hawaiâi Corporation, Director American Heart Association, National Treasurer Hawaiâi Pacific University, Trustee Island Insurance Company, Director
Previous :
Los Alamos Medical Center, CEO, CFO Basset Army Community Hospital, Administrator, CFO
Tiffany Vara reminds her husband, Ray, about their first date, when he professed that his children would be raised in Hawaiâi, where he had attended undergraduate school at Hawaiâi Pacific University. In 2002, Ray, originally from Ohio, and Tiffany, from Oregon, moved with their five children to Oâahu, a place they knew would honor their family bond. As the family settled in, Ray became the COO of Straub Clinic and Hospital, continuing his professional goal toward making a positive impact in the community where he had chosen to raise his family.
Today, he leads Hawaiâi Pacific Health, where his commitment to family and community spills over. Understanding that good health starts with a personal
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Foodland Supermarket Chairperson and CEO Jenai Sullivan Wall.
Hawaiâi Pacific Health President and CEO Ray Vara.
and professional commitment, Vara encourages his staff to care for themselves first. Further, he ensures an environment where HPH physicians and care teams can excel, providing the latest technology for electronic records and clinical innovations.
Vara is also a firm advocate of community partnerships, recognizing their importance in affecting change. He strives to form long-term partnerships with companies and agencies who are addressing Hawaiâiâs largest social issues, with the ultimate goal of building a stronger Hawaiâi.
Indeed, Vara understands that we are better when we work together, both in matters of health and heart. His work at HPH ensures that Hawaiâiâs values of family and community continue to remain strong, with the ultimate goal of creating a healthier Hawaiâi for us all.
Nainoa Thompson
Current:
Polynesian Voyaging Society, Navigator and President
University of Hawaiâi Board of Regents, Special Advisor to the President on Hawaiian Affairs
Nainoa Thompson is a master navigator. Born and raised in Hawaiâi, he embraced the Polynesian art of navigation as a young man. Yet, as one of the key figures in reviving Polynesian navigation will tell you, his life has been steered by the lessons of his amazing teachers, including pioneers and visionaries, navigators and watermen, childhood community members, and of course, his beloved parents. Thompsonâs parents remain his most influential teachers, and their values and lessons of doing whatâs right have become a part of him.
Eight years ago, two other individuals joined the ranks of Thompsonâs greatest teachersâthe twins who were born to Thompson and his wife, Kathy Muneno. Thompson says he raises his children in Hawaiâi because the culture is still kind and compassionate. The navigatorâs current MÄlama Honua Worldwide Voyage is dedicated to his childrenâs future.
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Left: Polynesian Voyaging Society Navigator and President Nainoa Thompson.
Right: Kaneohe Ranch Company Chairman Mitch DâOlier.
158 MK Pages Hawaiâi Greats PALM
For Nainoa Thompson, the voyage has reinforced that Hawaiâi is the most unique place on Earth, where differences in race, nationalism, and religion bring the population together, rather than pull it apart. For his children and all mankind, Thompson envisions Hawaiâi as the lab for living well together on this âsingle island,â planet Earth.
Mitch DâOlier
Current:
Kaneohe Ranch Company, Ltd., Chairman
Harold K.L. Castle Foundation, Chairman
Teach for America Hawaii, Regional Chairman
Previous:
Kaneohe Ranch Company, Ltd., President and CEO
Harold K.L. Castle Foundation, President and CEO
Victoria Ward Ltd., President and CEO
Hawaiian Airlines, President and COO
In 1972, young law school graduate Mitch DâOlier accepted a position with a Honolulu firm. A long way from their families in Chicago, Illinois and San Juan, Puerto Rico, he and his wife, Bambi DâOlier, knew no one in the islands. Needless to say, there was some concern about laying down roots.
However, upon returning to Hawaiâi from a mainland family visit, two words, in two different settings, from two different iconic residents, touched their hearts: âWelcome home.â
With those words, DâOlier felt he and his wife had been accepted with open arms. It is these kinds of meaningful friendships, strengthened by their love for Oâahuâs natural beauty, that have kept the DâOliers as lifelong residents.
Today, DâOlier reminiscences on the remarkable team members who afforded him a career âbeyond his wildest dreams.â Unlike anywhere else he knows, DâOlier believes that, in Hawaiâi, every leader gives back in his or her own way, thus strengthening the communityâs amazing richness and diversity.
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EXTRAORDINARY HAWAIâI RESIDENTS CELEBRATED
A stunning winter sunset by the sea, an inspired hula performance by HÄlau Hula Ka Noâeau and Muâolaulani, and lovely Hawaiian musical entertainment by Puamanaâall this created the ideal elegant setting for celebrating those who make Hawaiâi great. Business, healthcare, cultural, arts, culinary, non-profit, and philanthropic leaders were hosted at 53 By The Sea by the development team of Park Lane Ala Moana. The event was a celebration of remarkable individuals who call Hawaiâi home and continually inspire those around them to keep Hawaiâi a wonderful place to live and prosper. Executive chef of Kyoto Kitcho, Kunio Tokuoka (six Michelin Stars) was joined by local award-winning chef Alan Wong. Together, the chefs presented a culinary combination of Hawaiâi Regional Cuisine and Japanese kaiseki cuisine, with specially selected wine pairings. The unforgettable evening concluded with a request from guest Master Navigator Nainoa Thompson to have guests stand, join hands, and sing the revered anthem âHawaii Aloha,â reinforcing everyoneâs connectedness and love for our island home.
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160 MK Pages Hawaiâi Greats
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