TOP PASTRY CHEF by NOA SEMPELS

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TOP PASTRY CHEF The best cake recipes in the world.

Gianluca Fusto

Gianluca Fusto è un uomo intrigante

perché riesce a essere sé stesso – a ben

incarnare la sua vocazione professionale e nel medesimo tempo qualcosa di diverso. Facile il parallelo tra la sua fisiognomica

facciale e l’arte che l’ha reso famoso: gli occhi dolci, lo sguardo tenero, i modi

gentili… Tutto rimanda al suo essere uomo-pasticcere, la cui soavità vellutata richiama un pan di spagna, la fragrante amabilità lo scrocchio della sfoglia fresca. Un buono che fa cose buone. Poi, però, Fusto appare anche altro rispetto a quanto sa plasmare.

PEAce Peas - main ingredient Mint - kinesthetic sensation Vanilla - aroma

Recipe for 24 square single servings 6.8x6.8x1.5 cm

COMPOSITION: • Lemon Ovis Mollis biscuit • Joconda biscuit • Pea and mint velvet • Vanilla mousse • White spray glaze • Green glaze

DECORATION: • Blanched pea pods • Small mint leaves

LEMON OVIS MOLLIS BISCUIT INGREDIENTS:

STEP 1

185 g butter

Weigh all the ingredients separately. Soften the butter

Be careful not to encapsulate air

80 g confectioner’s sugar

at 25°C. Transfer to a mixer with paddle attachment.

into the mixture or the biscuits will

Add the confectioner’s sugar, lemon zest and egg yolk,

lose their shape during baking. It is

strained. Stir carefully without incorporating air bubbles.

important to amalgamate the first

Add the first quantity of flour and combine. Complete

portion of flour properly in order to

65 g stone ground pastry flour

the dough by adding the remaining flour, sifted, and

keep any moisture inside the dough.

160 g stone ground pastry flour

potato starch. Set aside in the refrigerator at 4°C for at

This pastry can be used for streusel,

least 3 hours. If possible, bake on a perforated plate lined

or as a normal shortcrust pastry. If

with a micro-perforated silpat. Bake in a convection oven

the pastry sheets are rolled out and

at 160°C with the vent open. The baking time varies

frozen, this will help the fibre in the

according to the size, height, shape and type of oven.

flour develop and make the pastry

15 g boiled yolks 45 g potato starch

9 g fresh Amalfi lemon zest

Tips:

more elastic and easier to handle.

JACONDA BISCUIT INGREDIENTS:

STEP 1

160 g fresh organic eggs

Weigh all the ingredients separately. Place the sifted flour, sugar and half the eggs in a mixer

100 g invert sugar

with paddle attachment and beat for 8 minutes. Add the remaining eggs and beat for another 12

35 g caster sugar 110 g Sicilian almond flour

minutes. Whisk the egg whites slowly in a mixer, adding the rest of the caster sugar a little at a time. The mixture will become smooth and uniform when ready. Heat the butter in a microwave oven at 50°C, dilute with a little beaten egg. Combine the 3 mixtures gently using a rubber spatula,

35 g stone ground pastry flour

making sure they do not deflate. Roll out the biscuit on a silpat, without pressing it so that air

25 g butter

does not escape.Bake in a preheated convection oven at 220°C for one minute, then lower the

100 g egg whites 20 g caster sugar

temperature to 180-190°C and bake for another 5 minutes, the first 3 minutes with the vent closed and then with the vent open. When cooked, set another silpat on the top and turn it out onto another pan. Place in a chiller at 4°C

PEA AND MINT CREAM & VELVET INGREDIENTS:

STEP 3 - Cream

Cream:

Weigh all the ingredients together in a suitable container. The next day, steam for 20 minutes. Mix

420 g fresh whole milk

all the ingredients to form a smooth, uniform purée.

45 g mint 450 g peas Velvet: 80 g fresh whole milk 9 g gelatin powder

STEP 4 - Velvet Weigh all the ingredients separately. Rehydrate the gelatin powder in cold water. In a one-litre saucepan, bring the milk to a boil and add the gelatin to dissolve, stirring continuously. Melt the

45 g water

chocolate at 45°C in the microwave oven. Pour a small amount of the liquid over the chocolate

320 g 33% Opalys couverture

and beat briskly. Repeat until smooth and glossy, a sign it has emulsified.

270 g 35% fat fresh cream

Check the temperature and keep it above 35°C (melting point of the cocoa butter). Mix to

570 g pea and mint cream 16 g untreated Amalfi lemon

refine the structure and add the cold cream, sea salt, pea and mint cream, lemon juice and zest. Mix, again making sure not to incorporate air bubbles. Crystallize in a covered container in the refrigerator at 4°C, for at least 6 hours.

juice 2 g fresh Amalfi lemon zest 0.4 g sea salt

VANILLA MOUSSE INGREDIENTS:

STEP 5

120 g fresh whole milk

Weigh all the ingredients separately. Rehydrate the gelatin powder in cold water. In a proper

5 g gelatin powder

mixer, whisk the cream with the inner part of the vanilla at a constant speed, until it has expanded

25 g water 185 g Opalys 33% couverture

to its maximum volume. The cream should become light, glossy and aerated, according to a technique called “bird’s beak”. Return to the refrigerator for 10 minutes. In a one-litre saucepan, bring the milk to a boil and add the gelatin to dissolve, stirring continuously.

10 g cocoa butter

Melt the chocolate and cocoa butter at 35°C in a microwave oven and add the vanilla seeds. Pour

3 g stick of Polynesia vanilla

some of the liquid onto the chocolate and beat briskly. Repeat until smooth and glossy, a sign it

250 g 35% fat fresh cream

has emulsified. Check the temperature, which must remain over 35°C. Mix to refine the structure. Check that the chocolate mixture is between 38-45°C, depending on the quantity, add it to the whipped cream. Use immediately.

WHITE & GREEN SPRAY GLAZE INGREDIENTS:

STEP 6 - White spray glaze

White spray glaze:

Weigh all the ingredients. Heat the cocoa butter to 50°C

Be careful not to expose to thermal

in the microwave oven, add the chocolate and heat to

shocks to avoid condensation problems.

50°C. Strain and keep hot.

It is important to spray the surface

Always use at 50°C on frozen desserts.

using a compressor set to 3 atmospheres

180 g cocoa butter 120 g Ivoire 35% couverture

Tips:

and a spray gun with 1.5 nozzle

Green spray glaze: 140 g caster sugar 140 g water 55 g atomized glucose 90 g dextrose

STEP 7 - Green spray glaze Weigh all ingredients separately. Add the gelatin to cold water to rehydrate.

120 g condensed milk

Heat the water in a suitable size saucepan, add the dextrose, atomized glucose and sugar. Cook

9 g gelatin powder

at 102°C. Add the neutral glaze, previously heated to 65°C and the colouring. Add the condensed

45 g water for gelatin 70 g cocoa butter 140 g Absolu Cristal glaze 0.4 g white colouring 1.2 g pistachio green colouring 0.8 emerald green colouring 0.8 metallic gold colouring

milk and gelatin and return to the boil. Dissolve the cocoa butter, gradually add the liquid until elastic and glossy, a sign it has emulsified. Add colouring until it is the desired colour. Finish by refining the glaze in the mixer. Set aside in the refrigerator overnight. Use the next day at 27.5°C.

Assembly: Cut the Ovis Mollis biscuit into 5.5 cm squares. Transfer them to a grill lined with a Forosil mat. Bake in a convection oven at 165°C with the vent open for 16-18 minutes. Seal with cocoa butter melted to 50°C, using a brush. Bake the joconda biscuit in a 30x40 cm pan. Use a pastry cutter to cut into a 53 mm square. Pipe the pea and mint velvet into the square mould, finish off with joconda biscuit. Chill immediately. Pour the vanilla mousse into 5.5 cm square moulds. Chill again.

Finish: Heat the glaze to 27-28°C and mix in a decanter, making sure not to incorporate air bubbles. Remove the desserts from the moulds and place them on a frozen grill, glaze and remove any excess glaze using a bent spatula. Wait a few seconds, then clean the edges. Using a bent spatula carefully transfer onto the Ovis Mollis biscuit. Remove the vanilla mousse from the moulds and spray with the white spray glaze using a compressor. Chill again.

Decoration: Use a bent spatula to delicately top the glazed single servings with vanilla mousse. Finish off with the blanched pea pods and mint leaves.

Storing in the laboratory: When the single servings are well chilled, remove them from the moulds and return them to the chiller for another 10 minutes. Then, arrange them in a plastic container, being careful not to damage the edges and shapes and cover with a sealed lid. Store in a sealed container to prevent it from drying out. Store for up to 8-10 weeks.

Tips: Be careful not to expose to thermal shocks to avoid condensation problems. It is important to spray the surface using a compressor set to 3 atmospheres and a spray gun with 1.5 nozzle

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