www.noctismag.com Summer 2013
Noctis VIII
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Contents
C O NTENTS FEATURES ‐‐ Noctis VII Contributors - 4 ‐‐ Powster - 8 ‐‐ Bulshict - 10 ‐‐ Jamcican - 102 ‐‐ Breakwater - 118 ‐‐ Mr Bingo - 126 ‐‐ Bash Street Kid - 134 ‐‐ Rules for life - 138 ‐‐ Bloggers - 144 ‐‐ Chris Pupo - 180 ‐‐ Little Shilpa - 246 ‐‐ This Old Thing London
‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐
MUSIC Beardyman - 196 Au Revoir Simone - 200 Little Boots - 210 I am Sellah - 228 Jessi Jae Joplin - 236 La Salami - 238 Tommy Trash - 240 The Sherpas - 244
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PHOTOGRAPHY Ying Yang - 12 Schools out - 26 lightness of being - 42 Blossom - 50 Phenomena - 60 Ninety Nine - 70 Hanfu - 72 The Healers - 82 Intergalactic - 84 Partys Over - 86 Animal Instincts - 150 Almost There - 160 Light Show - 172 So far away - 186 Buoyancy - 260 Giselle - 266 Dilution - 277 Boys - 278 Thankyou - 292
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THE TEAM ‐‐ Editor ‐‐ Leoni-Blue ‐‐ leoni@noctismag.com ‐‐ Picture Editor ‐‐ Jodie Shepherd ‐‐ Jodie@noctismag.com ‐‐ Music Editor ‐‐ Erin Davies ‐‐ erin@noctismag.com ‐‐ Fashion Editor ‐‐ Sophie Monro-Pruett ‐‐ sophie@noctismag.com ‐‐ Arts Editor ‐‐ Jennifer Geach ‐‐ jennifer@noctismag.com ‐‐ Fashion Features Editor ‐‐ Hannah Oakley ‐‐ hannah@noctismag.co.uk ‐‐ Creative Director ‐‐ Joel Jay P ‐‐ Joeljayp@noctismag.co.uk ‐‐ Web Management ‐‐ Joe Stephens ‐‐ joe@noctismag.com ‐‐ Submissions ‐‐ submissions@noctismag.co.uk/ ‐‐ info@noctismag.com ‐‐ Graphic Designer ‐‐ Russ Hepton ‐‐ russ.hepton@gmail.com
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Contributors
N OC TI S V I I
C O N TR I B UTO RS ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐
IMAGE MAKERS Aimee Stoddart Chris Pupo David MacAffer Ella Nash Hanna Kristina Helen Kirkbright Irene de la Selva Irvin Rivera Isa Wipfli Jade Sukiya Jodie Shepherd Katherine Boyle Katie Eleanor Kyle Galvin Leoni Blue Lexii Jaye Maria Dominika Natalie Kucken Nathalia Takeuchi Neringa Rekasiute Olivia Richardson Phoebe Cheong Rob Jarvis Serena Reynolds Violette Esmerelda Hoogaker
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STYLE MAKERS ADAM GEORGE AMBER SCARLETT BEILYNE LAUTCHANG BETHANI GOWLAND EMMA GAFFY FAUSTO LEONI HANNAH OAKLEY HANNAH SHEEN JACLYN BETHANY JOEL JAY PALMER MISCHA SMITH RACHEL HOLLAND ROBYNN FARRELL SAMANTHA MCEWAN SOPHIE MONRO-PRUETT SOPHIA PROBETT TOMAS C. TOTH
ARTISTS & ILLUSTRATORS ANDREIA TAKEUCHI ELENA ROTT JENNIFER GEACH MR BINGO STUART MCCARDLE ZOOM
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GROOMING TEAMS Alex Thao Ami Streets Anna Inglis Hall Brittany Romany Caroline Baribeau Cory DeKing Delmaine Van Niekerk Dionne Lea Taylor Edita Simutyte Ellen Guhin Emily Franks Frantzeska Koukoula Helen Rose Drake Jillian Elizabeth Kristina Myers Lauren Fillip Lauren McCowan Leona Anderson Lesley Vye Louise Hall Madelina Scantlebury Marcos Diaz Maria Vittoria Bortolussi Michelle Leandra Nina Sagri Pa Kou Xiong Portia Williams Rose Angus Rose Moffat Stelios Chondros Viktor Stevenson
‐‐ PR AGENCIES ‐‐ ‐‐ Beyond Retro ‐‐ Blitz London ‐‐ Bloody Gray ‐‐ Felicities PR ‐‐ Forward PR ‐‐ Goodley PR ‐‐ HPR London ‐‐ Kitch & Honey ‐‐ Listen Up PR ‐‐ Lunnfarrow Media ‐‐ Purple PR ‐‐ Snow PR ‐‐ Topshop HQ ‐‐ Your Army ‐‐ WRITERS ‐‐ ‐‐ DYLAN THOMAS ‐‐ ERIN DAVIES ‐‐ GREG SWABY ‐‐ JEZ HARTWELL ‐‐ JODIE SHEPHERD ‐‐ JOHNNY GODDARD ‐‐ NICOLA GOODMAN ‐‐ ZAENA MILLER ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ ‐‐ DESIGNERS ‐‐ ALEXANDRA GRECCO ‐‐ ANDREA KAYLA ‐‐ AUDREY GRACE ‐‐ BITCHING & JUNKFOOD ‐‐ ASOS ‐‐ BOL$HIE ‐‐ DEVINE ‐‐ DISAYA ‐‐ DOC MARTENS
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DOLCE AND GABBANA ERDEM FRANCESCA MARLOTTA FOLLI FOLLIE GESTUZ HAIZHEN WANG HELEN STEELE HIROKO NAKAJIMA HOUSE OF HOLLAND IMOGEN BELFIELD ISOLATED HEROES JULIA BURNESS KTZ LITTLE SHILPA MARIA PIANA MARNI MAUD TRAON MERCURA NYC SUNGLASSES MIMI HOLLIDAY MIU MIU MOTEL ROCKS MYABI KIMURA NOVA CHIU PAUL & JOE SISTER PHANNATIQ PRITCH LONDON RACHEL HALL RINAREE ROKIT SABRINA DEHOFF SAMANTHA PLEET STEVE MADDEN STRETSIS TATTY DEVINE TAZMIN LILLYWHITE THIS OLD THING LONDON TOPMAN TOPSHOP UNDERGROUND CREEPERS VELVET JOHNSTONE ZARA
MODELS & AGENCIES ADAM LOFT SHULTZ @ FM MODELS AIMEE @ OXYGEN MODEL MANAGEMENT ANDI @ OXYGEN MODEL MANAGEMENT ANDREAS HOLM HANSESN AVA @ FORD MODELS CAITLIN DOBSON @ PURE MODEL CECILIA @ OXYGEN MODEL MANAGEMENT COLEMAN ANNISON @ JEA MODEL CONSTANZE @ PREMIER MODELS FLASH MCLIGHTENING FRED CLARKE @ FM MODELS GABRIELLA ELLIS GABRIELLA @ ONE MANAGEMENT GISELE PLETZER @ VIVIENS MODEL GLEN ARBANTES @ FM MODELS HANNAH T @ OXYGEN MODEL INDIAMARA @ USE MODELS JAMES PARR @ FM MODELS JOANNA @ FM MODELS JOEL JAY PALMER @ BODY LONDON JOSEPH PARSONS @ JEA MODEL KAYTE @ MAJOR MODELS NY KIMBERLY SAMOVITZ @WHITEHOUSE KURT HERBST @ FM MODELS LARA @ MC2 MODELS LILLYA @ MUSE MODEL MANAGEMENT LOU PARSONS LYDIA @ MODELS1 MADELINE PARKER @ JEA MODEL MADELINE WYATT @ JEA MODEL MARTHA LANGFORD @ JEA MODEL MICHELLE NATALIA @ ELITE MODEL MANAGEMENT NATE CHIN-YUE ROSALIE KATE WHITTINGHAM SAM @ MODEL UNION SHAUGHNESSY @ FRAME MODELS STEVIE NEWALL SULA POWELL TOM TURPIE @ FM MODELS TORNIE @ FM MODELS VALERIA @ IMG MODELS YUTE BELGRAVE
Contributors
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Graduation
N OC TI S M AGA Z I NE G R A D UATI O N S PE CI A L ISSUE - SUMMER So, summer may not have taken full force like we might have hoped, but it hasn’t stopped us yet. As graduates ourselves, we have decided this year to make a celebration for all of the people who are now embarking on a new chapter in their lives. With this issue, we have some great features for you, including current graduates and creatives at the top of their game. Our features include Serena Reynolds showing us life at an American High School, Ste Thompson [the owner of Powster LTD.], jewellery establishment This Old Thing London, photographer Rob Jarvis has shot a lovely editorial for us again, our own Picture Editor, Jodie Shepherd, shares her graduate project, a great new photographer, Chris Pupo, we found from the US of A, and of course our cover star, Little Boots. Thank you to all of our contributors for making this issue, as well as a huge thank you to all of the graduates who submitted work to us. We hope you enjoy our Graduation special. Peace x
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S PE C I AL
From left to right) Lillya wears top by Wildfox, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, Lara wears t-shirt by Wildfox, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, Kayte wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, slip from Audrey Grace, earrings by Toujours Toi, Gabriella wears top from Nifty Thrifty, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, necklace by Frieda and Nellie, Shaughnessy wears sweater by Wildfox, dress worn underneath from Market Publique
G R AD UATI O N
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Powster
Firstly, let’s start at the beginning. How did Powster come to exist? While at college (The Arts Institute in Bournemouth) a guest speaker came in called DR Charles Kriel aka DVJ Kriel; through making him a free website, we started a chain of commercial work that led up to Powster, although back then it was called Mediabeat Studio. One of the concepts thought up was to make posters interactive, and that is really when Powster was truly born! Toshi (a DJ on one of the interactive posters) made a great introduction to Nathalie at Warner music and it went from there; now Powster creates music videos, viral adverts, any kind of idea led digital marketing concept, and owns one of the biggest movie show-time platforms in the world. Where did the name Powster come from? There were a few names thought of for the interactive poster concept, but Powster just seemed like the one that could become a “thing”; it was a goal at the start to get people say, “oh hey, have you checked out Powster for that event?” or whatever. But powster.com wasn’t available at the time. Later on, powster.com was bought for £250 because Studio Juice (a London creative agency) wanted to invest and buy half of the company, but that deal never finalised! Additionally, the person using @powster on Twitter wasn’t using it anymore so we got that too. Having the vanity URLs helps a lot. With our issue being about Graduation, and you as a graduate yourself, do you feel that further education has allowed for you to develop your company to where it is today? It definitely did, but not in the way you might expect. Studying gave enough free time to build the company on the side. More was learnt from the freelance, but having a student loan and the extra time meant enough energy could be invested in building something up slowly without investment. The concept of interactive poster design seems to have disappeared. What happened here? We venture back into interactive posters now and then, when movies and tour posters pop up. The movie studios are really starting to bring the static poster into the web world and one of the most fun things about creating the posters was thinking of all the cool things we could do. Our imagination still runs wild though!
You have won an array of awards for your work. How does it feel to gain such accolades? The one award that truly counts is the FWA, it was always an ambition to get one. The Digital Music Awards are fun just for the ceremony; the others are more like stamps of approval for potential clients, but hold a lot less value to the team. Awards are marketing tools. The real validation comes from the people who want to work with us after seeing what we've made. You create marketing campaigns for some big names. Is this the digital version of mad men? It's mostly a group of friends creating what they want to create, a lot less business than mad men! But yes everything else is identical.
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Your work has varied from interactive music videos to computer games. How do you work with each client and decide on a strategy for them? We get sent a brief, which is usually a long email with a lot of attachments; then we generate ideas as a team and talk it over. We usually come up with three or four far-fetched ideas and the client hones in on one or combines a couple. We then work hard to nail it and deliver it! Could you describe a typical day in the Powster Office? We usually have a meeting with a client about a new project, and then spend an hour or so drafting ideas, and generally working on active projects. We all have our own day but it’s a very relaxed environment until a deadline comes up. We work hard to make the ideas we’ve pitched actually happen and launch on time, it’s part of the job and the charm of it. Other than that there are perks of the jobs like a free gig or a movie screening months before the official release! Most companies aren't without their ups and downs, so what would you say have been your brightest and darkest moments? Brightest moment has to be putting James on a flight to Hollywood to film the crew of Jackass the next day, then storyboarding and working with the client to come up with the best campaign / film shoot possible while he’s on the plane. He lands, with little to no sleep and had to direct some of the most difficult people to a script he hadn’t read before. It was a very exciting time! The worst moment has to be the call from Paramount telling us that their international office was moving to L.A. It was a big blow to Powster as a majority of our work was with them.
Your company overview states that you want to “make things fun for the fans”. Do you think that this is something which is heavily overlooked when it comes to the marketing and promotion of products? The digital marketing world is slowly learning that content is the way forward and innovation and creativity win over just putting money into an ad. Having started from such earnest beginnings, what advice would you give to the young creatives of today?
If somebody was looking to work for a company like Powster, what would your advice be? "Get used to making coffee"? We get our coffee free from cafe direct who are above us, and have a coffee machine! So that job is taken. But if anyone is doing something original creatively, then get in touch. We’re always on the look out to work with interesting people! Words Erin Davies
@powster
Focus on your skills and the elements of creativity that you enjoy, find a way to make the things you do interesting for those around you.
Powster
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BULS
Charity & That
British University Helpfully Incisive
You want to keep helping others?
Words Gr
You spend your travels helping honey badgers and building coffee
shops and internet cafes
You think your year traveling collecting beads and a tan would
great documentary from the 52 mins of collected handy-cam c managed to film in 14
But you want to try to get things done
You can go off traveling as you
directly rather than lobbying and
lived at home during Uni, probably
you go off and try
being crippled by debt - well done!
in South Wales and so avoided
campaigning so
GRADU
to work for...
You take up temping as your
You find yourself answering calls in the town hall and explaining
local policy, the feeling of power
university careers officer said you needed “professional” work on your CV
begins to creep in to your body....
This makes you
feel like you can
You end up in charge of the social
help other people...
media and online PR for the local
government as you are the only one who understands what they are..
However you become
system, what you seen small time corruption
govern
Government & Politics
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Corporate Life
y Leavers Special e Career Tracker
You are offered a spot on the firms management training programme!
reg Swaby
As youve only worked minimum wage the idea of £14,500 per year and Is this what you want?
d make a
Dreams vs Salraity...
clips your
a company Audi A3 seems like someone has given you a diamond the size of a child's head and rocket ship...
You want to be the new Charlie
Brooker/David
Mitchell/Uptight
White Anglo-Saxon on TV and in print
UATION
in the Guardian...
You become sick of the corporate life and begin to write down your musing in a online blog...after a
couple of years it gets picked up by publisher and
your blog become the cult best seller “Checked out Check Out Checked Off. Checked. Ch.”
You finally catch your lucky break! After 500+ inter applications you get
a chance to work at Pink Cactus Productions...
disillusioned with the
n as wasted resources, and the inefficiency of
nment...
You begin furiously blogging and freelancing, sending out your poorly subbed articles to every publication. But
while you do this you still have bills to pay and a cat to feed...
After half a year of grunt work and brown
nosing your line manager has a 9 coffee a day/ stress/RSI endured break down and you take over MEME production...#YOUVEMADEIT
Why I Buy Vinyl Records
Working in Media
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Clash
YING YANG C L A SH
Photographer: Violette Esmerelda Hoogaker HAIR: Portia Ferrari the attribute clash Stylist: Joel Jay p Stylist assistant: Lauren Groves Lou Bones Nate Chin-yue Photographer - XantheModels: Hutchinson Reproducing the spectrum MuAof and
Stylist - Bethani Gowland Hair & Make up - Faye Aydin La Jeune Model - Sophie Bailey @FM/Boss
Nate is wearing Red and white Waistcoat, Beyond Retro Hand Made Shorts Beyond Retro Lou Stylist own Mesh t-shirt and Chains.
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Stylist’s own glasses Shirt by H&M Dress by Miss Selfridg Necklace -Vintage Bracelets - Stylists own
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The most important lesson to learn in life
Nate is Wearing BOY MESH HOODY, Lou is Wearing White Mesh hoody Beyond Retro
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is to love and to be Loved in Return
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LOVE COMES IN MANY FORMS
YING YANG
Lou is wearing: Stylists own Top and Pants Nate is Wearing LEVI Vintage JEANs BEYOND RETRO CROOKS Leopard Print Cap HADDON PR.
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Nate wearing BOLSHIE HAT Beyond retro Safari Short and Cat Backpack Chain stylist own
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and Chains.
YING YANG
Lou is wearing Stylist own Mesh Shirt
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YING YANG
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Sunglasses & Necklace - Stylists own Skirt - Topshop Rings - H&M
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YING YANG
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SCHOOL
Photography: Serena Reynolds, Styling: Jaclyn Bethany, Art Direction: Models: Madeline Wyatt, Martha Langford, Coleman Annison, M Location: Special thanks to St. Andrew’s
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L'S OUT
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Photographer: Natalie Kucken www.nataliekucken.com Stylist: Jaclyn Bethany www.jaclynbethany.com/stylist Hair and Makeup: Lauren Fillip and Ellen Guhin www.ellenguhin.com Fashion Assistants: Ariona Adams and Carissa Gan www.twitter.com/carissa Painting in Background by Lydia Velichkovski Special Thanks to Park CafĂŠ (861 7th Avenue, NYC) and Myzel Chocolates (140 W 55th Street, NYC) Models Kayte @ MAJOR, Lillya @ Muse, Gabriella @ One Shaughnessy @ Frame, Lara @ MC2 and Ava Ford
Serena Reynolds and Jaclyn Bethany, Hair and Makeup: Kristina Myers Madeline Parker and Joseph Parsons @ JEA Model Management s Episcopal School, Jackson, Mississippi All girls wear vintage clothing from Nifty Thrifty, all boys wear clothing, their own
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Schools out
Madeline Wyatt wears vintage clothing and belt from Nifty Thrifty, her own necklaces
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Top Photo: All girls wear their own shoes, vintage clothing from Nifty Thrifty, all boys wear clothing, their own
Madeline Wyatt wears t-shirt and jeans from Nifty Thrifty, her own necklaces and rings
Schools Out
Martha and Madeline wears vintage clothing from Nifty Thrifty, Martha’s necklace by Frieda and Nellie
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Schools out
(left) wears top by Luella, all other clothing on girls from Nifty Thrifty, all accessories by Frieda and Nellie, Madeline P and Martha wear their own Keds, Madeline W (right) wears shoes by ASOS
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Schools out
Madeline Parker and Martha wear all clothes from Nifty Thrifty
Joseph, Coleman and Madeline Pa
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arker wear all clothes from Nifty Thrifty
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Joseph and Coleman wear vests from Nifty Thrifty, jeans their own
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Madeline Parker wears jean jacket and pants from Nifty Thrifty, bralet by Free People available at Libby Story Boutique
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All boys wear their own clothes and shoes, Madeline P wears bralet top by Free People available at Libby Story boutique, all other items vintage from Nifty Thrifty, jewelry by Frieda and Nellie, girls wear their own converses
Schools out
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Ava wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, necklace by Lizzie Fortunato Jewels, Lillya wears t-shirt by Wildfox, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, Shaughnessy wears sweater by Wildfox, Gabriella wears t-shirt from Nifty Thrifty, necklace by Frieda and Nellie, Kayte wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, vintage slip from Audrey Grace
‐‐ All girls wear clothing from Nifty Thrifty
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Madeline Wyatt wears vintage clothing from Nifty Thrifty, bracelet by Frieda and Nellie, her own shoes
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Madeline Wyatt wears jacket and dress from Nifty Thrifty, necklace by Frieda and Nellie
Schools out
Martha wears vintage clothing from Nifty Thrifty and necklace by Frieda and Nellie
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‐‐ MISSING
‐‐ missing credits
All girls wear vintage clothing from Nifty Thrifty, all boys wear clothing, their own, Madeline Parker (on left) shirt by Luella
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Audrey Grace Advertorial
Th ro I
LIGHTNESS OF BEING Photography by Hanna Kristina MUA - Helen Rose Drake Graduation Photos exploring the innocence of youth
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re a a e lif rl’s i t g mos nd ung o e y h a a is t ooked ope, of e s c l r n h r, ea ra pea is ove cence ge y p a a n o e n an re r. te ity he coaste ry whe rsonal ll of in e given l; the r t e r u ir olle indus ing, p tle. F , we a ung g t o n a n h i y l a t o In rtant s very entati f a allows . o e h o imp n mean experim the lif u are hroug t o d e oft ge and k into who y shine ear ol t and h y n o g a o i ch ate lo f bein lity t y-two ural l g re girls a intim ness o person twent of nat captu t a to ve ligh derful ina is a lo likes ough crazy, t h n , wo a Kris er wit y. She d thr ful lented y n n t h a n a l p a u a p , H is t ness. ogra tic bea ey are t are t h t o e ph isma ay th s tha k of plet r r m t a o w n o h e c w e c mom y, the se of t th n jus raying h ds t a se por rved an given e res idual is v indi
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A N I ST
RI K A N N HA
rd
phe
She e i d o by J s d or
W
Audrey Grace Advertorial sunglasses NYC Mercura
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Audrey Grace Advertorial
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Dear Margaret
Vintage Silk Dress Mercura NYC Sunglasses H&M Necklace Vintage Rosemary Necklace
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Ola wears Velvet Johnstone Jules wears Velvet Johnstone With Loki
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BLOSSOM A COMING O F AG E
Photography & Art Working - Jodie Shepherd Model - Self Portraits
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Blossom
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Blossom
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Top - Hiroko Nakajima Broach - Marni Leggings - Nova Chui
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Blossom
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Top - Phannatiq Dress Worn as Skirt - Vintage versace
Blossom Digital Girl
PHENOMENA
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Noctis VIII Photographer: Katie Eleanor Clothing design: Rinaree Hair and Make-up: Amber Scarlett Model: Rosalie Kate Whittingham
Phenomena
MAY BE YOU THO UG HT I W OU L D N ' T GE T I T , OR T HAT I W O UL D N'T U N D E R S TA N D .
Rosalie wears Corset by Rinaree Tail and crown are photographer’s own
Rosalie wears Corset and skirt by Rinaree
Rosalie wearsTop and skirt by Rinaree, crown is photographers own
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Blue Skies & Boudoirs
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Rosalie wears Crown, cape, and nails by Amber Scarlet
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Rosalie wears Corset by Rinaree Crown is photographer’s own
Phenomena
Rosalie wears Skirt by Crown by Am
Rinaree Veil is vintage mber Scarlett
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Phenomena
Rosalie wears Crown by Katie Eleanor
Rosalie wears Corset by Rinaree Crown is photographer’s own
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Ninety-Nine
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Red Balloons
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Hanfu Many came to the court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han Photographer: Phoebe Cheong Creative director & stylist: Fausto Leoni Hair & Make-up: Maria Vittoria Bortolussi (www.mariavittoriabortolussi.com) Model: Hui Hui @ LongTeng Models
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Hui Hui wears Necklace - Stylst own T-shirt & skirt by INITIAL Shoes by TOP GLORIA
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Enya wears Bra by Mimi Holliday Earings and Necklace by Sabrina Dehoff
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Photography - Katie Eleanor Concept and Styling - Mischa Smith Make Up - Louise Hall Hair - Stelios Chondros odels - Sam @Model-Union, Hannah T @ Oxygen, & Michelle
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Andi: wears Dress ture, Shoulder Bag Cuff - Maison Marti hard Willhelm. Aim Unitard - Rose Fullb son for Samsonite N Sunglasses - Bolls
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- Sian Hulse, Top- Sub Cou- Marc Newson for Samsonite in Margiela Sunglasses - Bernmee: bright Backpack - Marc NewNecklace - Stylist’s Own
Aimee (left): Unitard - Ellie Skeet , Skirt and Shoes - Robert Wun , Jewellery - Stylist’s Own. Andi: Jacket - Ellie Skeet Shorts - Stylist’s Own Shoes - Robert Wun Sunglasses - Maison Martin Margiela, Necklace - Stylist’s Own Shorts - Stylist’s Own, Tights - Wolford Shoes – Robert Wun
Photographer Nathalia Takeuchi Styling and Concept Mischa Smith Retoucher Andréia Takeuchi Grooming Cory DeKing Models Aimee and Andi @ Oxygen
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The Party Is Over
Kayte wears dress by Luella, bracelet by Frieda and Nellie, Lillya wears vintage dress and necklace from Audrey Grace, bracelet from Frieda and Nellie, stylist’s own earrings, tiara from Claire’s, Gabriella wears bracelet by Lizzie Fortunato Jewels, earrings by Frieda and Nellie, dressfrom Queen of the Universe Vintage, Shaughnessy wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, necklace by Vanessa Arizaga, earrings by Lizzie Fortunato Jewels, bracelets from Frieda and Nellie, Lara wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, top by House of Cards, crown from Claire’s, bracelets by Vanessa Arizaga nd Lizzie Fortunato Jewels, Ava (front right) wears tiara from Claire’s, t-shirt and dress from Nifty Thrifty, necklace by Sarah Chloe, all tights by We Love Colors
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THE PARTY IS OVER Photographer: Natalie Kucken Stylist: Jaclyn Bethany Hair and Makeup: Lauren Fillip and Ellen Guhin Fashion Assistants: Ariona Adams and Carissa Gan Painting in Background by Lydia Velichkovski
Models Kayte @ MAJOR, Lillya @ Muse, Gabriella @ One Shaughnessy @ Frame, Lara @ MC2 and Ava Ford
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Ava wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, necklace by Lizzie Fortunato Jewels, Lillya wears t-shirt by Wildfox, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, Shaughnessy wears sweater by Wildfox, Gabriella wears t-shirt from Nifty Thrifty, necklace by Frieda and Nellie, Kayte wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, vintage slip from Audrey Grace
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IT'S NEVER OVER TILL THE SUN COMES UP Shaughnessy wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, earrings by Lizzie Fortunato Jewels, necklace by Vanessa Arizaga 
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Kayte wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, slip from Audrey Grace, socks by Topshop, shoes by Vans, earrings by Toujours Toi
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From left to right) Lillya wears top by Wildfox, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, Lara wears t-shirt by Wildfox, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, Kayte wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, slip from Audrey Grace, earrings by Toujours Toi, Gabriella wears top from Nifty Thrifty, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, necklace by Frieda and Nellie, Shaughnessy wears sweater by Wildfox, dress worn underneath from Market Publique
Ara wears t-shirt by House of Cards, dress from Nifty Thrifty, crown from Claire’s, bracelets by Vanessa Arizaga and Lizzie Fortunato Jewels
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Lara wears necklace by Frieda and Nellie, dress from She’s A Bettie Vintage
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Ava wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, bracelets on right by Frieda and Nellie
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Kayte wears dress by Luella, bracelet by Frieda and Nellie, Lillya wears vintage dress and necklace from Audrey Grace, bracelet from Frieda and Nellie, stylist’s own earrings, tiara from Claire’s, Gabriella wears bracelet by Lizzie Fortunato Jewels, earrings by Frieda and Nellie, dress from Queen of the Universe Vintage, Shaughnessy wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, necklace by Vanessa Arizaga, earrings by Lizzie Fortunato Jewels, bracelets from Frieda and Nellie, Lara wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, top by House of Cards, crown from Claire’s, bracelets by Vanessa Arizaga nd Lizzie Fortunato Jewels, Ava (front right) wears tiara from Claire’s, t-shirt and dress from Nifty Thrifty, necklace by Sarah Chloe, all tights by We Love Colors
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Lara wears T-shirt by Wildfox, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, purse from Queen of The Universe Vintage, bracelet by Frieda and Nellie, shoes by Vans
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Special Thanks to Park CafĂŠ (861 7th Avenue, NYC) and Myzel Chocolates (140 W 55th Street, NYC)
The Party Is Over
(from left to right): Kayte wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, slip from Audrey Grace, socks by Topshop, shoes by Vans, earrings by Toujours Toi, Lillya wears t-shirt by Wildfox, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, shoes by Keds, Shaughnessy wears dress worn underneath by Market Publique, shoes by Vans, socks by Topshop, Ava wears dress from Nifty Thrifty, socks by We Love Colors, shoes by Superga, Lara wears t-shirt by Wildfox, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, socks by Topshop and shoes by Vans, Gabriella wears vintage t-shirt and shoes from Nifty Thrifty, skirt by Alexandra Grecco, socks by Topshop
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Jama Call to Turn. It’s in His Blood.
C A L L TO TURN IT’S I N H I S B LOO D Photography & Art Direction - Kent Andreasen MUA & Hair Stylist - Kristy Cochius www.kristycochius.com - @smudgemakeup Model - David White - @20management
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YUTE is wearing Snake Skin Denim Jacket with weave collar. Snake skin denim Pants, dip dyed fox tail. NATE is wearing Sequin Bomber, Leather Basket ball shorts. Adidas Sandals. JOEL is wearing Parker coat with removable fur. Low Crotch Fuzzy Trackies, FLASH is wearing Sequin jumper,Basket Ball short, Adidas Sandals, Laser Cut leggings.
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Yute is wearing: Snake skin Denim Jacket with WEAVE collar.
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Nate, Flash Nate: Stylist own Durag,Sequin Bomber Leather Basket Ball Shorts. ‐‐
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YUTE, JOEL, Flash yute: Snake denim with weave. Joel: Parker With Detachable weave fur Flash:Sequin Jumper
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Yute is wearing: Snake skin Denim Jacket with WEAVE collar. Nate is wearing Stylist own Durag,Sequin Bomber Leather Basket Ball Shorts. Joel is wearing Drop Crotch Trackies Leather Basket Ball Shorts
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Vest by Topshop Cotton shorts by Stiaan Louw Hightops by Supra Socks by nike
Yute is wearing: Snake skin Denim Jacket with WEAVE collardip dye Fox tail,
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Stylist & Art Director Joel Jay P Photographer - Jade Sukiya Make-up Artist - Michelle Leandra Models- LDNFAM: Flash Mclightening Yute Belgrave Nate Chin-Yue Joel Jay P .
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When did you realise that becoming a fashion designer was right for you? I don't think I ever decided; even now I’m not so sure. How does it feel to be graduating with such a strong collection? It has been such a long process and so intense, when you have been immersed in something for so long it’s hard to see it for what it is. But I am impressed I got this far. Where did the “Jamaican me Crazy” idea come from? 'Jamaican me crazy' is a product of what I like, from music to 90's street style. But I think at the moment contemporary menswear is saturated by Tupac and Biggie references, so I wanted to create something that was designed with a different angle in mind. Some of the embellishments in the collection are incredibly intricate, how did you get the idea for patterned sequins? Was it difficult to create? I collaborated with textile designer Zoe Sterling, we worked together to create the sublimation prints that were then heat pressed onto the reversible sequin fabric, so once you get into it it’s a wonderful process. Is there anyone in the industry you are particularly inspired by? Menswear in London right now is at its best! You can't beat it, but of course what is tacky what is chic, according to Donatella Versace herself. Where would you like to see yourself in 5 years? That’s a big question, one which people seem to be asking me a lot recently. The truth is I have no idea, but I am quite excited by that. As long as I am in a career that provides me with opportunity to travel and the money to buy good shoes I will be happy. How do you feel about making it to the press shows for Graduate Fashion week for LCF? I'm a little overwhelmed I didn't think I would ever be in this position. It's an amazing platform and I am so excited to see the response and opportunities it will hopefully bring. Considering the collection is for men, the colour palette and cut is extremely feminine. What inspired you to combine this with an urban street style? There is an element of homophobia in Dancehall music and I wanted to reverse stereotypes while having a fabulous time. So, what is the next step for Brogan Toyn? Summer-time. We are extremely excited for Ms Toyn’s future and to see what she has in store for her upcoming collections. Insta: Ratticakes LDN FAM: www.facebook/LDNFAM / www.Ldnfam.com / info@ldnfam.com Michelle leandra: / @michleamua michelleleandra.portfoliobox.me Brogan toyn: www.showtime.arts.ac.uk/BroganToyn
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Joel weasr Pink Upside down Jeans crop Oversized Drop Crotch Jeans adidas Sandals
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Clean Minds, Dirty Thoughts
CL E A N M I N DS D I RT Y T H OU G HTS Photography: Christopher Fields - http:// christopherfields.co.uk Fashion and Creative Direction: Faye Héran - http://epinettefiles.tumblr.com Grooming: Violet Zeng - www. violetzengmakeup.co.uk Behind the Scenes Filming: Erika Shiotsu http://silvercliffedge.wordpress.com Assistant: Mohamed Jama
BREAKW Model: Brieuc @ AMCK Models - www. amckmodels.com
Location: Kingsland Road Studio – http:// kingslandroadstudio.com
Shirt - Topman Design www.topman.com All Clothing: Isolated Heroes www.isolated-heroes.com All Jewellery: ALTAR Jewellery www.altarjewellery.tumblr.com
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Clean Minds, Dirty Thoughts
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ISOLATED Isolated Heros
ISOLATED HEROES is the luxury unisex Street-Wear label designers by Samantha McEwan. From the overall success of Samantha’s graduate collection, entitled “Voodoo Zumbies”, the media support surrounding the label ensured the immediate launch of the ISOLATED HEROES brand in June 2011. Since the launch the brand has snowballed with a cult following of online and international supporters, including stylists Alexis Knox and Ms Fitz, and a mix of musicians and public figures including Charli XCX, Kreayshawn, Misha B and McGaffE. Nominated for Young Designer of the year at the 2012 Scottish Fashion Awards, Samantha’s celebrity client base has grown to include the Radio One Extra favourites, Purple Ferdinand and Syron [both having recently worn clothing for promotional releases, press shots and Brit Award appearances]. Merging a kaleidoscope of inspirations and techniques, Samantha’s pieces are desirably unique, whilst retaining a strong wearable ethic; ISOLATED HEROES uses a rainbow of vivid clashing colours, distinct prints, illustrative embroidery and oversized silhouettes. ISOLATED HEROES is predominantly a Unisex label with the idea of bringing Optimistic Clothing and a fierce sense of identity into the designer market. It primarily forms and reflects the air of excitement flooding through the new generation of the UK's young and amazing. 2013 is looking set to be one of the most exciting years for the young brand with the current collection having recently been shot by RANKIN for Hunger Magazine and requested by Francesca Burns for the first edition of MISS Vogue [the UK's version of Teen Vogue launching in June this year
Isolated Heroes www.isolated-heroes.com
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DHEROES Photographer: David MacAffer Styling: Samantha McEwen Make Up: Jillian ELizabeth Hair: Leona Anderson Styling Assistant: Lisa MacLean Models: Sula Powell & Stevie Newall
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All Clothing: Isolated Heroes www.isolated-heroes.com All Jewellery: ALTAR Jewellery www.altarjewellery.tumblr.com
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All Clothing: Isolated Heroes www.isolated-heroes.com All Jewellery: ALTAR Jewellery www.altarjewellery.tumblr.com
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All Clothing: Isolated Heroes www.isolated-heroes.com All Jewellery: ALTAR Jewellery www.altarjewellery.tumblr.com
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Mr Bingo
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MR B B E A RDYMAN Interview by Jez Hartwell & Johnny Goddard
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BINGO
Mr Bingo
O HATE
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“Some say he’s the “Master of pens, Some call him the “Justin Bieber of drawing, Some say he fucks about for a living.” To many, Mr. Bingo is a man of mystery and revels in the quirks life brings. He is an idea based illustrator and works from his studio in Shoreditch, but believe it or not, counts “beat-boxing” and “Scrabble” amongst his hobbies, and likes to collect pairs of trainers As a society, we love to hate. But think of it as a car crash, you know it’s not right, but you can’t help but look. Mr. Bingo’s first book, entitled “Hate Mail” is filled with anonymous offense, albeit in most cases, welcomed by the public; but whilst we still find the words insolent, we cannot get enough of it. The Times hailed the small collection of postcards as a “horrible, hilarious little book”, and it really is, even I couldn’t walk past it in the bookstore and not take it to the obnoxious bookworm behind the checkout. It is difficult to imagine anything but pure humour being the sole purpose for such creations, but as a nation we can find a certain sense of satisfaction in adopting a sarcastic tone when dishing out an insult. Yes, I too am guilty of such a thing. Alas however, Mr. Bingo has a particular je ne sais quoi about him, something many of us sadly do not possess, and worried that we were not receiving enough interesting post, something positively delightful was born. It’s a strange feeling when you want to be on the receiving end of such hate, but if it were in person I can imagine wanting to reduce down to tears. Thank god Mr. Bingo only insults people via post. ‐‐ Mr Bingo
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Would you say that you “love to hate”? No. I read that you “didn’t learn much at school” but you learnt you could make people laugh, how did this translate into a career in illustration? I enjoyed the attention and self fulfilment from drawing stuff that made people laugh at school. So it translated quite easily into an illustration career where I just replaced the teenage school boys with a new audience which is anyone in the entire world who is interested. Was it ever a concern that those who received your postcards of “hate” might actually take offense, particularly if they weren’t the one who requested it? No, I'm not bothered really. I put a disclaimer on my site to say that I'm not responsible for any sad or suicidal feelings. It was kind of a joke but I also meant it! The majority were for people who were having them sent to themselves. The ones that were ordered for other people were (as far as I know) sent to people who were already fans or who knew my work so they kind of 'got it' straight away. If anyone has actually been offended, they haven't come forward! The works featured in the book, to me, reflect an instant response, almost a gut feeling. Did you spend a lot of time creating the “Hate Mail” that you sent out? I do actually spend a lot of time making them. A lot of the messages are very throw away and feel like they're angry rants just firing out of your mouth, but I enjoy the process of spending time on some hand painted lettering or a really neat detailed drawing. I think it adds to the humour that you can see the effort put into them. It's as if I'm writing the message with such absolute belief and conviction that I was prepared to put hours into it. Did you anticipate the popularity of the “Hate Mail” project? No As this is our graduate issue, how did you come to be where you are today? 1998 - Foundation course in art and design at KIAD 1999 - 2001 - BA Hons in Graphic Design (specialising in illustration) at Bath Spa University College. 2001 - 2003 - Worked in a trainer shop, a book shop, a PR agency and a bank in London. During this period of about 2 and half years, I worked most evenings and weekends to try and start a career in illustration. At some point I was suddenly getting enough work to give up the full time jobs and luckily I haven't looked back since. What advice would you give to aspiring illustrators and current graduates?
Do Work very hard Don't Expect to be succesful straight away Do Enjoy it Don't Do it for the money (at first) Do Update your portfolio all the time Don't Tell people that you drink tea Do Put your work in the right place/show the right work to the right people Don't Run before you can walk Do Be patient Don't Give up Do Write down EVERYTHING Don't throw anything away Do be nice to people Don't Try to be famous Do show work that you want to do more of Don't Ever be satisfied Do treat meetings a bit like an interview. Make an impression.
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Do you like living with the ethos that you never know exactly what is around the corner? Yes. It used to scare me but I don't care anymore. You have an eclectic mix of clientele, when creating work for them do you stay true to your personal style or do sacrifices for their pleasure have to be made? I stay true to my personal style unless someone offers me so much money that I'm willing to do whatever they want. This work is then never shown to anyone of course. Do these things apply where new clientele are concerned? Yes, I'm in a strong position at the moment where the demand for my work is higher than what I can actually produce (and have a 'life' outside illustration), so I can be pretty demanding about how I want things to look or work, or I'll simply say no thanks. What do you like people to gain when they look through your work? To make them smile or laugh. To add a bit of humour to their day. “Rebellious” and “rude” are two words often used to describe your approach to art, how do you feel about this?
Don't Work for free (to an extent) Do use social media to your advantage Don't Try and be something you're not. (Play to your strengths and natural ability) (don't follow trends) Do Share ideas with friends. Don't Think a job is happening until you're actually doing it! Do Learn to do things outside the internet. A phonecall is infinitely more powerful than an email.
I don't think I'm rebellious or rude at all. I guess my threshold for what's considered rebellious or rude is a lot higher than some peoples’. I think it's rude to cut off someone’s head in the street, but I don't think it's rude to draw a penis on a baby chick. Do you think there is such a thing as an “unrealistic dream”? Yes. Lots of people want to be professional football players but IT WILL NEVER HAPPEN. Words by Jodie Shepherd
Dont email people with 'dear sir' Do Try everything (keep experimenting) Don't be cocky until you're doing well Do get an agent if you think you need one Don't Reply all to an email with a rude message by mistake! Do LOOK at everything Don't Take internet comments as gospel Do remember who fucks you over on the way up so you can shit on them when you get to the top. Don't rely on university grades Do Trust your own instinct. Mr Bingo
Don't listen to me.
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B E A RDYMAN Interview by Jez Hartwell & Johnny Goddard
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The Bash Street Kid
At a fresh and unapologetic twelve years old, Zoom Rockman, winner of a Spirit ofLondon award and full-time school boy, is the creator of The Zoom! the satirical comic that is breaking onto the British illustration scene at full speed. Zoom, who wrote, illustrated and published his first issue at just nine years old, has won himself a spot on Vogue's hot list of 2013. Having already rubbed shoulders with the Prime Minister at Downing Street, and supplied stockists all over the UK and in Paris, it seems there's no stopping him. Inspired by classic and well-loved titles like The Beano, Zoom's comics are a blithe, lo-fi laugh at the expense of everyday culture. A shrewd determination, combined with a frank attitude towards doing what he loves earmark Zoom Rockman as unique and impressive young artist. Noctis caught up with the incipient go-getter to find out how it all began.
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They say the secret of getting ahead is getting started, how old were you when you created your first comic? I first began drawing comics when I was eight. Now at twelve, I write, draw and publish The Zoom! With titles like The Skanky Pigeon and Planet of the Ace, The Zoom! dishes out plenty of tongue-in-cheek references to pop culture. What are your personal favourites when it comes to comic books and media? My favourite comics are The Beano and Image Comics' The Walking Dead. Favourite film would have to be The Godfather and I like to watch The Simpsons. At the moment I’m reading The Wasp Factory by Iain Banks. Like all creatives you have a wealth of first-rate shows and publications influencing the original comics you produce, but where do you look specifically for inspiration? I feel as though I’m still finding out about people in the industry and learning about it, so at the moment I can't name any main inspirations. I’m trying to catch up on all the TV shows, movies and books that I haven’t seen or read yet. How do you balance writing, illustrating and producing The Zoom! And attending school full-time, it must be a challenge sometimes? It’s difficult. I have to be really organised which is not something that comes naturally to me. I try to complete one comic strip every week. School is very supportive and helps out with my time-management. Who is your favourite character from The Zoom? I really like ‘The Nutters’ they’re a bit like the Bash Street Kids... But a lot worse. You've already come so far, seeing your work stocked not just in London but across the UK and in France too. What has been your proudest achievement so far? Winning a Spirit of London Award in the Media category last year, and also being a Spirit of London ambassador. Looking to the future what do you see on the horizon? Can you see yourself going to university? It depends on if the finances are available. I wouldn’t want to get into any debt and it costs a lot to go. You must have given some thought to your dream job? I’d like to write and direct my own movies or sitcoms. As a very successful young artist, what's the best piece of advice you can offer aspiring comic book artists and illustrators? Just do it. A lot of people sit around talking about things that they’re going to do and never actually do anything. The more work you put in the more you get out. Visit Zoom Rockman's website to find more: www.thezoom. co.uk Words - Emily Beeson and interview by Jennifer Geach
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Stockists of the Zoom!: Gosh! Comics, The Cartoon Museum, The Big Green Bookshop, Rajco Newsagents, Pickled Pepper Books, Hornsey Train Station and Colette, Paris.
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STUART McCARDLE
RULES FOR LIFE
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Stuart McCardle RULES FOR LIFE When it eventually comes to 'story-time' my grandkids are going to be somewhat disappointed. "I mean, sure, Gramps wears some fine cologne. He always appears to be drinking really rather high class whiskey and, yes, he does have a very elegant face, but that old memory of his is particularly awful." Regardless, when the snotty little shits manage to pry their money grabbing eyes off my estate, peer expectantly through my haze of misremembered adventures and deem it prudent to ask for some life advice I’ll at least be able to give them some sturdy ground rules. RULE ONE - STUDY PHILOSOPHY You don't know anything, and neither does anyone else. This is excellent news. I graduated uni with a beautiful head of flowing hair, a dashing wit and, thanks to a degree in Philosophy, an unwavering optimistic disposition beautifully combined with a willingness to see things differently. Respect where respect is due to other, more accepted, degrees, but I cannot stress how vital this attitude really is. Realising you could be wrong is the first ingredient of progression. Considering an application for a graduate scheme at Deloitte or becoming a recruitment consult are prime example of misjudging my goals and interests. Cue my "farting about" period. About 6 months in to this magnificent phase of realisation my good friend Tom Greaves asked me to help out shooting skate videos for a website. With his help I pretended I could use a camera and after a few weeks we wrote a proposal on how to make the videos more exciting. 3 months later we're managing a post-production team in a chalet in the French Alps, filming snowboarding, listening to reggae and drinking beer in Jacuzzis. Needless to say this wouldn't last long; the company would go bust and I would be back on my meandering arse in England, only this time with the acquired goal of getting in to film. RULE TWO - NEVER SETTLE You’re better than that. “Send me a covering letter explaining why I should give you an interview." Dear Sir, Covering letters are my forté. Kind regards Stu Two days later I'm in glamorous London Town and working for a swanky post-production house where my prestigious role was to make tea and toast for the peckish bourgeois of the media world. I wanted to learn about this process, but if you really want to pursue postproduction, no matter how good your toast making skills are, I do not recommend being a runner for a big company. The chances of you being hypothetically raped in the metaphorical anus are significant, and this will make you physically cry. A year (a year!) of my oh so precious life had spread itself onto slices of wholemeal until I finally decided to pull my pants up and go freelance. I saved, bought a camera, approached a bunch of people and got some small filming jobs. This was much better Anus saved. Hooray!
“Send me a covering letter explaining why I should give you an interview."
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2 years later and I’m on holiday in America. I head to a Starbucks for the free WiFi (as you do) and respond to hundreds of ads for camera guys. The only one that replied was for an Assistant Camera on a music video, which turned out to be for the incredible Charles Bradley; a 62yr old James Brown impersonator from Brooklyn, NY, who was finally putting out music as himself. Within two days I would be driving around in the back seat of a car in Bushwick and pointing a camera at some seriously sketchy looking gentlemen: *puts down camera* “Umm, so guys? How did you choose these locations?” “Oh we looked at the "Murder Map" and picked the areas with the highest density...Get out and film that weird looking guy over there.” RULE THREE - GO WITH THE WIND Opportunity blows. That one email would prove the catalyst for a whirlwind that would swoop up the next two years of my life. At the wrap party for the music video the guys realised not only how inspiring Charles' music is, but also how utterly incredible his life has been, and so decided to make him the subject of a documentary. so we spent the next 6 months shooting ‘Soul of America’; toured with the band, interviewed a man with a gun, ate like a king (got a fat neck), hung out in black cowboy soul bars, partied every single night for 6 months and all whilst documenting the life of a beautiful man on the cusp of his life changing drastically. You know, genuinely having the greatest time of our lives and that. After premiering at SXSW in Austin, Texas, h played at the biggest documentary festivals all over the world and has just screened on BBC 4. Big tings. Had I, on that fateful day, decided that sticking a camera in potential drug dealers' faces* in Bushwick wasn't a good idea and walked away I would have missed these golden years, and to this day "saying yes" has been the wings to travel the world and meet some incredible people. It also leads to dance offs in crowded bars. *please don't do this; I wear protective amulets. RULE FOUR - BE NICE It makes you happy, and no one likes a dick. People like nice people. Don't they? This is pre-school shit. Which is why I can't understand how there are so many arseholes in the world. You don't have to be Socrates to work out that the single most important ingredient for "generally having a nice and easy life", can be attributed to being friendly. Everything else is secondary. If this is not initially very obvious to you then just give it a go for a week and see how much brighter the sun shines. So it doesn't matter what you want to do. Read Kierkegaard, think big, let things happen and smile, you grumpy fucks. Sometimes you'll have to step up to the plate to accept obligations and responsibilities, but playing it safe all day will get you safe; it won't get you exciting. If I've learnt anything from anyone I've learnt from Charles. 60yrs of ultimate adversity, but thanks to never giving up he's finally living his dream; screaming his heart out, wearing a sequinned jump suit and hugging strangers all over the world. Someday you'll be dead and gone. Push the boat out whilst you still have arms.
Freelance cameraman and editor Stu McCardle was the Director of Photography and editor for the feature documentary 'Charles Bradley: Soul of America' and is currently working as Head of Video for Knock Knock Productions in London.
Written by Stuart McCardle http://www.stuperhuman.com/
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VICTOR PH ILPOT T Tell us a little bit about yourself and your blog. My name is Victor Philpott and I am seventeen year old, London based, luxury fashion and lifestyle blogger who founded the blog, Blog De Luxe one year ago. Some of the categories encompassed within the site are profiles and interviews with major fashion personalities from stylists to designers as well as bloggers, as well as providing fashion news and articles and looks of my everyday outfits. How would you describe your style? Eclectic. It is a word that is overused when describing one’s style but it truly does apply to the way I dress. I like to experiment with my personal style
and like to take influences from different styles and pair them together into something more in keeping with my personal preferences. What do you think makes a fashion blog successful? A passion for what you are talking about. It is easy to see in a blog post when someone is passionate in the topic that they are covering. In recent years there has been a proliferation in the number of blogs that have been launched by individuals who by no means are passionate about the world of fashion. They instead wish to exploit their own image in the hopes of becoming famous and receiving monetary rewards and free gifts. Quality is another crucial factor to becoming successful in the currently over saturated world of fashion blogging. It is important to provide a quality service to readers throughout - from the imagery, to the text to the design - reading one’s blog should be as simple and enjoyable as possible and this should result in the success of one’s blog. What’s your favourite item in your wardrobe? It would have to be my Jean Paul Gaultier red and black silk bomber jacket. The silk is the most sumptuous that I have ever felt and it is very practical as it can be worn informally but can also be worn with a more traditional outfit, it adds a little edge to a classic suit. While I would not say that my style is driven by trends, it is nice that this particular piece is ‘in trend.’ The imagery on both the front and the back, displays roaring tigers in a way that is very in keeping with the trend set by the now iconic Kenzo Tiger Sweatshirts. What trend from the past would you like to see make a comeback? The 80’s trend. Particularly the graphic street art inspired, as well as the power dressing movement that was also prolific in this time period. I have always been fascinated with the style of dressing adopted by the leading ladies in shows such as Dynasty and some of my favorite antique Vogue issues are from the period when Anna Wintour was first appointed Editor-In-Chief and the power dressing look was very ‘a la mode’.
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CHAR LOT T E H O LE Tell us a little bit about yourself and your blog. I am a 19-year-old part time, personal style blogger with high hopes of pursuing a career in styling. I currently work full time at Urban Outfitters and live in both Shoreditch and Essex and have to go back and forth like a worn out yoyo. My favorite word is sensational and I'm in love with Danny Dyer & un-salted cashew nuts. How would you describe your style? Damn, I always find this question the hardest as it always varies. Basically, I don't like being a ‘plain Jane’. But I'm not over the top. I'm trying to resist prints at the moment but I can't help but indulge.
Where did the name Crave Green Velvet come from? When thinking of a blog name, it's hard. I wanted something with a maximum of three words, with a personal twist. I adore the colour green and really love velvet. I have a pair of green velvet leggings I cannot live without. What do you find challenging about blogging? Time! I never have the time to post as much as I would like to. Working away full time with unreliable hours makes it all pretty challenging. Are your outfit posts spur of the moment or do you plan them? Mainly spur of the moment! However, if I've just bought something, I always have in mind what I'd wear it with. Random outfits chucked together always works better for me though! What’s your favourite item in your wardrobe? I go through stages so it changes monthly. One piece I've always been faithful to is a loud vintage printed shirt I won on eBay, after a massive bidding war. It looked even better than the pictures; I think that's why I love it so much. Victory is mine. Who do you admire most for their style? Honestly, Eastenders character Pat Butcher is a massive influence for some of my wardrobe pieces. But I would kill to dress like Paloma Faith. What trend from the past would you like to make a comeback? The kitten heel. Was it ever a trend I hear you say? Everyone slates these to high heavens, including myself. But this would be a trend I would love to see come back.
Photographer Kyle Galvin MUA - Louise Hall
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WWW . C R AV E G R E EN VELVET . B LO GS PO T . CO . UK
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Headpieces - Danai Simou Shawl - Anastasia Onasoglou Jewels - Naya Ferentinou Clothes - Stylist’s own
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Photography: Isa Wipfli Styling: Jaclyn Bethany Hair and Makeup: Caroline Baribeau Fashion Assistant: Alexis Kanter Models: Indiamara @ Muse and Valeria @IMG Shot at The Bronx Zoo, NY
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Photographer: Irene de la Selva Assistant: Raffaele Cuccu Location: Sardinia, Italy Special thanks to: Il Diamante di Gould
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Nate, what is your favourite style of dance? “When dancing with the boys, the energy is just incredible. I love the way we are all completely in sync with each other, even if it is a freestyle dance, it seems to come out like a routine. It’s comfortable to the point that I feel like I am sitting in my living room; just jamming, no pressure. Fireworks happen when we dance together and it brings us even more closer together” Here he is wearing Dr Martens, Beyond Retro jacket and models own beanie.
Top: Vintage, Body: H&M Stockings: American apparel Accessory: Photographer own Shoes: H&M DIVIDED
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Bathing suit: American Apparel Stockings: Vintage, Accessory: Handmade bouquet with wild owers
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Light Show
Light Show Now you see her Photography – Rob Jarvis Styling – Rachel Holland Make-Up – Nina Sagri Hair – Lesley Vye using Bumble & Bumble Model – Natalia from Elite
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Photographer Spotlight
Chris Pupo is from Los Angeles . His work holds a unique quality, and the moments he captures are ones to be treasured for a lifetime. Pupo has a soft, natural approach to image making and documents his life as it unfolds before his eyes. There is a playful nature to the photographs; an element of whimsicality that embodies a sense of nostalgia shines through and toys with our imagination. Thoughts of awe and wonderment take over and you can’t help but admire the beauty that has been portrayed.
http://chrispupo.com/
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Earrings – butler and wilson Trench coat – the rodnik band
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Sunglasses - Emmanuel Katsaros Dress - Mary Me & Jimmy Paul Shoes - Gabriella Marina Gonzalez
Chris Pupo is from Los Angeles, and self taught in photography. Could you describe your work to us in a few words? Candid, spontaneous and organic Where would you say your inspiration comes from? I try to carry my camera with me wherever I go. My photographs are my ongoing life, and so they’re becoming very personal as the work gradually develops. Whether I’m driving, hanging out with friends, riding my bicycle or going on mini adventures. I try to look at every day and every subject as important and meaningful. I guess what I’m trying to say is... I find everything inspirational. What do you value in a photograph? Everything; even the smallest detail holds a value. What is it about photography that you enjoy the most? I tend to keep to myself, and can be very shy at times. Having a camera and taking photographs was an excuse to step out of my comfort zone and try to be more outgoing. Sometimes I really have to push myself to get the pictures that I want. I suppose... I enjoy the places I’ve been, the people I’ve met, and the moments I have captured. There are things I would have never come across if I wasn’t out there photographed. It makes me feel fully involved in living. How does the future look for your work? I’m optimistic. I hope to keep an open mind and keep growing as a person. I think when you let yourself transform and change, it shows in the work you create. Photographer Spotlight
Words by Sophie Burrows
So Far Away
So Far Away Photographer: Maria Dominika Styling: Robynn Farrell Hair and Make-up: Delmaine Van Niekerk Model:Â Caitlin Dobson@Pure Model Management
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BEAR D YMA N
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Beardyman
Interview by Jez Hartwell & Johnny Goddard
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Where does the name ‘Beardyman’ come from? Is it on your birth certificate? Yes. I was born with a full beard. My mother has 8 legs, which is more than your mother has therefore my mother wins. Your voice is your musical instrument…well, we’d say more of an orchestra or a massive sample bank. When did you realise you could use your vocals to do what you do and what inspired you in the early years? I've made noises since before i could talk. I had a stammer when i was 3. I still remember why too; I realised there was no perfect way to pronounce any particular sound, but an infinite variety of possible ways. I've always experimented with sound and with things that can make sound, my mouth is just the first thing i found that could make sound. Now i have synthesisers and guitars and effects processors. They're better. How would you describe what you do, because it’s much more than just beatboxing? I would describe myself as an electronic one-man-band. That's not a full description but it's the most succinct way i've found of communicating what i do to people who haven't seen it, particularly those who haven't heard of beatboxing or looping. What kind of music did you listen to growing up? Do you think it impacts on what you do now? Growing up i was listening to the beatles, classical music, and spike jones. Spike jones was a 1940's music hall act with an orchestra of extremely talented musicians who did incredibly complex and ludicrously silly parody versions of the popular music of the day. They would work with whatever weird music hall acts they could get their hands on and incorporate them into the show. It's the best thing in the world. Search it. Nothing like it exists today. And Spike himself was so cool when he was doing it. It was rock n roll before there was rock n roll. On long car journeys my parents insisted on listening to the same Abba, 10cc billy joel compilations on every car journey, which i now regard as musical poison. Expertly crafted songs, incredibly well produced, but fucking embarrassing music. My guiltiest pleasure is still 10cc. . . they made amazing music and terrible music in equal measure. I have consciously tried to limit the impact my child-hood carjourney-music has had on me but it keeps creeping back in subtle ways. The beatles though. . you can't fuck with. . . Technology is a huge influence in your musical progression. It seems to us that you’ve had to wait a
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long time until technology could catch up with what you’ve wanted to accomplish with music and sound. Before we ask about the complex setup that you now use, what equipment did you start experimenting with when you first started developing your unique brand of sound? I've used every available piece of technology to try and achieve the musical methodology i've always craved. I started out using looper pedals, experimented with the looperlative a rack mount unit which gave me electric shocks and crashed all the time, ended up using an ever increasingly complex system based around kaoss pads which are a touchscreen fx unit from korg. It did everything i needed but not very well. Simultaneously i was working on a set-up which utilised a free-ware plugin called mobius in a hosting and routing environment called bidule which worked well but was buggy, crashy and not perfect. I eventually ended up trying to get my ideal set-up built for me in max-MSP and that turned out to be too processor intensive so I was forced to get my system coded from the ground up in C++. It's been exhausting if i'm honest. . but i finally have my dream system. And it's getting dreamier all the time. This crazy piece of technology you now use in your live sets looks incredibly complicated. It must have taken a long time to get the setup correct and right for you. Without giving away any secrets or enigmas, explain what it does? It's the worlds most advanced looper. But it's so much more than that. I can't give too many details away but suffice it to say it's more advanced than any other looping set-up in the world by a long way and is easier to use than any other ever designed. it implements several unique gestures within it's interface strategy which are not found anywhere else. Everything is designed and built from the ground up. It allows me to start with no idea of what i'm gonna do and just go ahead and make music. I can also be given an idea and just crack on with it too. I can record the stems straight out of the system for use later. We don't have project files yet, and only a limited level of undo's but it's all calibrated for my use so i never notice the compromises we've made to get it to work as it's streamlined and optimised for live-use and recording, It's not unlike ableton but without the need to configure what you want to work with in advance of starting to record or perform. My whole goal is to let my creativity flow and not be hampered by technology but released by it. The Beadytron allows me to do that. It releases my
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creativity in as unadulterated form as is possible with current computing power, which, incidentally we are pushing to the absolute limit. So if you were going to market the Beardytron 5000MK II, what would be the tagline? The Beardytron5000, release your imagination.. . . but you'd have to say it in steven hawking's voice, lying in a pool of fish paste. We know you admire Imogen Heap and her innovative approach to music, would you consider collaboration with her in the future and who else would you like to collaborate with? We're good friends actually and may well collaborate on something some time soon. We're trying to find a way to make our machine's integrate. One way in which we’d describe your live sets is ‘flexible’, there’s always room to manoeuvre and change what’s being played. Is there plenty of planning and preparation behind every set or is it more improvised and ‘off-the-cuff’? It really depends. If i had to do the same thing every night i think i'd loose my mind I'm all for rehearsing something until you can do it in your sleep, as that allows you to focus on the performance and not the individual notes, and the more relaxed you are, the better the performance will be. Still, my ultimate goal is to be able to rock up on to a stage without any prior knowledge of what i'm gonna do and just go for it. . . this is my dream, and right now i'm fairly close to being able to achieve it. Well, i do achieve it, but i have been writing songs i've rehearsed and i slip those in to my sets. I've given up doing cover versions of other peoples songs though. I consider cover versions artistically void. I only every did it to b populist, but fuck that. Mimicry, even if satirical is the lowest form of art in my opinion. Your sets jump from genre to genre, which one is your favourite to beatbox and perform live? It depends how i'm feeling. . . consider it a bit like sexual positions. Its like that. It's good to switch up. . . sometimes totally unexpectedly.
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You’re a funny guy! It’s clear that the comic element to your sets is refreshing for all audiences. If you didn’t do music, do you think you’d have been a stand up or performance comedian of some sort? No. Stand-up is an art, and not one I wish to engage in. I'd prefer to be a scientist or a designer than a comic. It's really fun to be involved in comedy but i hate the very term. Why should something be funny from start to finish. What's wrong with taking people on an emotional journey. The best standups do that, a range of emotions. I'm more interested in that. My favourite stand-ups transcend that easy categorisation. Don't get me wrong though, i'm doing a comedy show in edinburgh this year and have done most years since about 2009 when i first tried it, but the life of a comic is hard. . you have to have tremendous self belief or you end up turning to drugs, i guess it's not unlike music in that respect, but at least with music you don't have to be in a good mood all the time. I'm often not, because the world is filled with utter cunts. You've probably met some of them, they're easy to spot, there the ones who act like complete fucking cunts. What is the most played song on your iTunes, and what is your most recently added? most played : a song called "i am eating your brain" which is on my new E.P. which will be release at some point before i die. recently added : a song called "cabbage" which is also gonna be on my upcoming E.P. The Beardytron 5000 tour starts beginning of May this year. What words of wisdom do you have for touring and being on the road? get some weed, smoke it. Also say the word "anus" as many times as you can to as many people as you can find. They will be all the better for it. . everyone needs to have the word anus said to them randomly at least once a day. After years of building and refining your sound and setup, what is next for Beardyman? recording new songs. . . . some of which i've written 10 years ago. some of which i wrote this month. . . just writing, composing, producing. getting ready for my second album which will in a sense be my first album, cos i didn't really try on my last one which is why it's kind of juvenile and all over the place. . this next one will be from the heart. That and continuing to work on my system. A DVD i think. . . also some live projects. . . . you love it. .
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Photography: Natalie Kucken Styling: Jaclyn Bethany Makeup: Caroline Baribeau and Brittany Romany Hair: Marcos Diaz Fashion Assistants: Alexis Kanter and Alexandrea Crawford Models: Erika, Annie and Heather of AU REVOIR SIMONE
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Au Revoir Simone
Many of us have a girl crush. A girl crush is a girl whom we admire throughout high school, and if she is exceptionally wonderful, the love affair continues. I have three girl crushes and they come in the form of Au Revoir Simone. Au Revoir Simone are the über-talented, hip all keyboard band boasting three beautiful ladies - Erika, Annie, and Heather. [They already have a cult following in the States and internationally]. The girls have worked with some, shall we say, pretty awesome fashion brands. Miu Miu anyone? But it is clear to see that what is most important is their music. I sat down with the lovely ladies at a delicious restaurant in Bushwick, Brooklyn, named Roberta’s. We ate pasta and pizza, and enjoyed some small talk. Since then, I have become an avid follower of the girls, who as I write, are touring Brazil. The girls met in Williamsburg in 2002, and started working together very informally. They would meet after work and play music for fun. Erika had been taking keyboard lessons, and though all of the girls had different levels of musical experience, Erika would meet with Annie and Heather for an impromptu jam. Having grown up in the eighties, it seemed that “every little girl had a little keyboard”, and so with easy access to the medium, this was always part of their vision, and all three of them strived to learn more. Heather really took on the challenge of layering the keyboard sounds and through contributions to the musical palette, Au Revoir Simone was born. In the beginning, Au Revoir Simone was all about learning. They started playing covers of their favourite songs until they found a personal flair for writing original music. At their first couple of shows, they were surprised by people actually enjoying their music. “How cool!” they thought. Annie says, “I think there was something in the music that just resonated and felt good. It felt so natural. It was just fulfilling and amazing to be in a band with these girls.” They have recorded four albums so far, as well as various mix albums. The girls believe that their new album, which will be released in September, has shown their growth and story as a band. “This album and the last album we were able to reach the soundscape we originally envisioned,” Heather explains. The girls continue to explain that the last album feels like being in an arts and crafts studio because it felt so hands on, and this one
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HONOR, Heather wears top by Family Affairs
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feels more like being in a laboratory. It’s minimalistic and cleaner, you don’t hear the room in the sound. However, the songs are more upbeat than the last album. Erika explains that the fashion collaborations came naturally too. “We have always been a Williamsburg band, and there were so many young designers around; there was definitely a style and visual culture that was developing at the same as we were developing as a band. There are always fewer female bands than male bands. There’s three of us, so the designers could play dress up with us.” The girls never intentionally sought to be a typical “girl band,” and when asked if their sound is European, the girls mention that people have told them that over the years, but they feel like now the style of the band is becoming more of the norm. When they started, it was very unusual for the band to be all keyboards with no drum set. The girls agree that indie music in general, has become more experimental and less focused on key instruments in the past couple of years, These New Puritans for example. Au Revoir Simone have toured extensively in Europe and the United States, and Erika mentions that they are greeted with such warmth everywhere they go; Annie adds that they are close with their fans. “We went to Istanbul and played once, we had a sold out show and everyone knew the words to the songs. It was amazing that our music became so accessible,” says Erika. A highlight for the band was opening for Air a couple of years ago in France, who they have always admired. When asked about their favorite places in Manhattan, they note they are fond of The Natural History Museum and riding The East River Ferry to see Manhattan in a new light. Their music brings to mind beautiful images of Manhattan, an image of the past. One of the images they had when creating this new album, was a picture of the night sky of New York, recorded by an old, hand held video camera. An image that is free, nostalgic and beautiful. The same three words can be said to describe the music of Au Revoir Simone. Au Revoir Simone
Words by Jaclyn Bethany
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"I think there was something in the music that just resonated and felt good.."
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“The lovely Victoria Christina Hesketh, better known as Little Boots, has just launched her new album and has a lot of exciting ventures surrounding her. She met with us to talk about her new work, DJing and the music industry in general. Little Boots has a hectic schedule and so was jet-lagged but remained chatty and genuine, which set the perfect mood to talk about the career changes in recent years and the influence of the Internet on the music business” It’s called ‘Nocturnes’ and the producer is the fantastic Tim Goldsworthy. I’ve also collaborated with Andy Butler from Hercules and Love Affair as well as James Ford from Simian Mobile Disco. We recorded it in Bristol and writing it I guess has taken me, well, about 3-4 years but the actual production only took roughly 8 weeks. While writing it I was djing a lot so there’s a lot of house records, seventies disco and electronics involved in the process. It has taken me quite a long time to finalise it as a project but that’s also because this album is so much more personal! What’s your favourite song from the album, are there any “must-listens? Well I have written them all haha, so it’s quite hard to say. I guess ‘Motorway’ kind of always reminds me of being a teenager up North, just driving around empty roads at night. You know you always romanticize those years in a way. Also ‘Shake’ I’d say carries the sound of the album so it’s quite an important song. But really I love them all! What are the inspirations behind the album, you said you were influenced by the poetry of Edgar Allan Poe? As I mentioned I’ve been djing a lot, so I guess that’s been a big influence. So classic dance records and just general dance music have been inspirational and of course travelling, reading and life as a whole have all been key while writing the album. Has anything changed in your life that’s made you take on a grimmer direction of your music? I mean the album has lots of different tracks - from slower beats to dancy songs -but I guess I have grown up a bit and so has my music. Also, really importantly, I have stopped trying to please people and record labels. This album is so
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much more ‘me’ instead of some proclaimed English Lady Gaga! That’s why it’s not as euphoric and it’s much more honest, as I’ve stayed true to myself as frustrating as this might have been. Dave Simpson from the Guardian, called you ‘the pop Cinderella who didn't get to go to the ball’ do you think your new album is your comeback? Oh haha, well I’ve given up trying to get into the ball. I’m more interested in the afterparty now I guess! The ball may not be the best part, you know. Who was the first to believe in you and inspire you to put yourself out there? Professionally and personally? Hmm, I guess Greg Kurstin. I’ve been involved with music since a very early age but it took for someone I really looked up to to believe in me for me myself to believe in me. This gave me a lot of confidence as you don’t realise your potential until someone you respect opens your eyes to it. And also, personally, my family, especially my mum! I’m really grateful that they could afford financially and in terms of time to really invest in my musical talent. I was lucky to be able to play all the instruments I wanted, etc and that there was someone to respond to these wants haha!
"Well, I wouldn’t say instruments; they’re more of gadgets."
Yeah, I know you play a lot of instruments! Which one’s your favourite? Do you have time to dedicate to it? Well, I wouldn’t say instruments; they’re more of gadgets. I’ve always been in love with the piano though and as I use it to write my songs, so I dedicate most time to it. Ok, going back a bit to when you first started. At some point you were an internet sensation, what were the main challenges when you had just started your career? My case is a bit weird I guess as I was in an indie band for some time and then I started putting videos online of me singing and somewhere in between after all that I got offered a record deal. So the main challenge is of course to be noticed by a major record label. But I’d say also having confidence for which you need to trust yourself a lot. You also need to keep control of things instead of being told who you are and what to do. How do you think has the rise of internet music celebs/ stars changed the music industry? I mean Youtube has certainly had an effect on how things work. Yeah, it’s such a weird time I think. I mean I went to a festival where most performers were Youtube stars, most of them with millions of views on their channels which is amazing! I guess it’s quite liberating as labels don’t play such a huge role anymore and you can put yourself and your image in your own hands. It’s freeing the artist in a way and trendsetters have less power as people can have many and different opinions. Is that a positive change or do you think it makes it much harder to succeed and build a name? I think if you’re talented there are no limits. Of course it might be harder to stand out but once you’re up and running, it should be fairly easy to be noticed and build a career. Little Boots
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You used to be a jazz singer, is there a platform for young jazz performers or do lots of them turn to pop as more sellable? Oh I was hardly ever a professional jazz singer though, I was mostly performing at weddings and events and I was doing lots of covers. But I think especially now people can rely on the Internet a lot more to put themselves out there rather than having to wait for labels to discover them. In the past you had big controllers like MTV as well, which kind of decided what genre and style are popular at the moment. So in a way it shouldn’t be as hard to find audience for any style nowadays. Do you miss being in a band or do you prefer being solo? That was a loooong time ago haha! I definitely prefer being solo as it’s been easier to choose the direction my career has taken. And particularly with writing, it’s harder to always get across your own views all the time if there are many people involved and all with different opinions. But I still play live with bands which I find really fun! You dj a lot these days, tell us about you gigs? What’s your favourite crowd? I love it! It’s definitely not the same as playing live shows obviously but it’s still great. It’s helped my career a lot to get my name out, and as I mentioned it’s inspired me a lot for my current album. Favourite crowd…hmmm definitely the gay crowd! They are always so much fun and have knowledge about the music I play. It always gets a bit crazy too which I really like. What about festivals, which is the biggest one you’ll be playing at? From the European ones definitely Glastonbury, I can’t wait for that. But again, I’ll be doing quite a bit of travelling – Ibiza, etc and some live club shows. And tell us about your upcoming gigs? Well as I said Glastonbury is going to be quite big and then I have a huge performance in Heaven with lots of special guests. Also some big American tours. I’ve just come back from a crazy month of travelling as well – Hong Kong, Singapore, etc. As this album is international, I’ll be doing lots of travelling.
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Any exciting collaborations coming up soon? Ohh, not sure I can give it out! But there are some good stuff coming up so stay tuned! Do you have a stylist, who inspires you fashion-wise?
" I dress the way I feel, I look like I sound and that defines my style not specific trends "
I don’t really, online fashion obviously inspires me quite a lot. I go crazy with vintage shopping as well. But I mainly just dress like my music – a lot of disco involved! How involved is fashion with music for you? Not that much to be honest, I dress the way I feel, I look like I sound and that defines my style not specific trends necessarily. But I don’t really think about it that much, it kind of comes naturally. Maybe some singers rely on more on looks than skills? Yeah I guess some people try to out-crazy each other which was started by Lady Gaga in a way. But I don’t think you need to look like a maniac to be noticed, style should be effortless like Debbie Harry – she just looks cool. Then again, you shouldn’t completely understate fashion either. And finally, do you have a favourite designer or someone we should be on the lookout for? I have been working with Sorapol quite a lot, he’s been working with Azelia Banks as well! I love his stage wear and I’m also really excited to be collaborating with Cute Circuit who are based in Shoreditch. They are designing a dress for me with computer-controlled lights which is pretty awesome. It’s still going to be quite lightweight but I think it’s an amazing way to incorporate fashion and technology so I cant wait to see the final result. Words by - Alissa Voutova
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Photos - Leoni Blue Styling - Hannah Oakley Set Design - Jennifer Geach Retoucher - Luke Hutchings MUA - Rose Angus Hair - Lesley Vye using Bumble & Bumble Nails - Ami Streets Photo assistant - Sophie Burrows Styling assistant - Katie Grace Words - Alissa Voutova
WITH S PE C IA L T HA N KS TO Mia @ This is music www.thisismusicltd.com Studio Unit 10 space
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Sellah
I AM SELLAH Photographer- Neringa Rekasiute Stylist- Tomas C. Make-up Artist : Edita Simutyte
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How did the name Sellah come about? Honestly, it all happend in a dream. When I woke up, the name Sellah just stuck in my head. I further did my research and notice the definition of the actual word Selah meant to be freed from, a break from negativity, to stop and listen…the list goes on. So I felt I had to keep this name for myself because the definition is everything that I wanted to create with my music and bring into this world. I just added the extra L to keep the name original. How did you get into music from modelling and photographing? I always just had a HUGE pasison for fashion and entertainment ever since I was a littled boy. So the transitioning into each was more natural then it may seem to most. I grew up in a government family, so I had to learn adapt to every situation I was faced with growing up and moving across the world. I just took this mentality and placed it into my current work/lifestyle. I thus created a middle point where my modeling, photography and music all interconnected as a whole. This allowed me to do everything at once, but I have became way too busy to do photography as much as I would like to, but i am sure I will later in the future. There are quite a lot of big things coming out of South Africa at the moment. One of our favourites is Petite Noir. What is the music scene like over there? South Africa is very special. The talent there is not heard of and the funny thing is most people would not picture South Africa to contain such beauty and talent. I feel it is definatley an underdog counrty and really hoping I can help to get the international attention more towards that way. What are common misconceptions of South Africa and is there something you think that the rest of the world should have from there? (Aside from Sparletta Cream Soda) Lions, tigers and bears ! It is honestly disheartening to hear such ridiculous comments on the country. Especially, when they ask why did I choose South Africa as the first place to introduce my music over places like NYC and LA. The country has a magical energy that I feel the world needs to all experience. I am not saying you have to move there, but certainly take a trip and discover a new YOU. Then continue your journey across the world.
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You work schedule must be very intense. How do you get about fitting everything in? I just DO, if I really sit down and plan how to attack everything I will lose my mind. Without my manager, not sure if I would be capable of anything. We work as a team, so everything is done together. I just go with what feels the best and take it from there. I am currently working on building teams across the globe. You video for Supernova Life has been featured on the likes of Rolling Stone. How has it been to get such big coverage? I am very grateful beyond belief, but I am now working very hard to see my videos on MTV worldwide. How does your music take shape. What influences you? Life really influences me in general. I grew up like most having idols or being a fan of others, but once I understood that if one man can do it then so could the other. I became my own idoI and stopped idolizing people and certain lifestyles that i felt I wanted. I just grew up to see beauty in mankind and life. This allowed me to respect the hard work and great productions of others. So now anything that I want, I go for it and do not stop until I can claim it. You have made jokes about covering Drake on your Facebook. Is there any artists you would actually want to collaborate with like that? Ha, I mean I love so many different types of music, so this list could be pages long ! But lets name a few : Robyn, Pharrell, Angel Haze, Kanye West, Hot Chip, ASAP, Charli XCX and ah there are many more and even ones I am already in process of collaborating with. Our last issue was about vinyl and records. Can you remember the first record you bought or is it al digital? Ah, the first one I bought was years ago. Michael Jackson’s BAD album. I blame it on technology haha. Do you have any advice for young artists be it in visual or aural arts that want to get noticed? No matter what the masses say, constantly push your work out there and promote it. Many will see it as annoying and desperate, but as long as your confident in your craft, then the right person/people will notice what your doing. This lifestyle and journey is extremly hard. So create a team you can trust and take risk after risk. Never let your passion die… keep that fire burning.move there,
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" Give them something visual and mysterious to fall in love with "
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Having been a model how important is the way you look compared to the way you sound? I feel at the level I am working towards and with today’s society, both are equally important. Give them something visual and mysterious to fall in love with. At the same time, incorporating timeless sounds and a voice they can fall into a deep trance with. I feel it is very important to relate their life with your experiences too. The list of businesses you are involved in pretty much covers your entire output and so much more from labels to model scouting. Is it important for you to have complete creative control of everything you do? It is very important I have control and know what exactly is going on. It is like I already have everything planned into my head. So now it is about gathering teams to join me placing everything together. I could never work for another man. Aside from being a professional sportsman is there something that people don't know about you? I took gymnastics for a few years as a child and I do not have an actual hometown because I moved over 30 times before I turned 18. So it is the hardest conversation starter when you meet someone for the first time asking where are you from, ha ha. What is next for Sellah? There are always many things going on which I cannot mention just yet, but we are producing some material that will push me to have a household/ worldwide name and brand by the end of this year, 2013. Words by - Erin Davies
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Jessi jae Joplin
Jessi Jae Joplin Wardrobe and styling credit to:Â Motel Rocks
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“Well behaved women rarely make history.” Jessi Jae Joplin is best known for being the lead singer of the pop/rock band, The Ruckus. She has blown away audiences across Southern California – performing at legendary venues like The Viper Room. She also directs, styles and produces her own music videos (featuring talented stars such as Columbia Records recording artist KREAYSHAWN, model/blogger Hanna Beth, Bebe Zeva, and actress Whitney Moore). Jessi is also an active Fashion Journalist – contributing to sites like BUZZNET, E! Online, Audrey Kitching’s Lazy Bones Vintage, and The Pulp Zine. She even has previous experience working alongside the Club Kid fashion designers of Heatherette and in the Fashion Editorial Department of JANE Magazine.
www.jessiejaejoplin.com
Jessi jae Joplin
Model: Jessi Jae Joplin Photography: Lexii Jaye Wardrobe and styling credit to: Motel Rocks Location: North Hollywood, California
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1.) You are involved in fashion with your blogging and fashion web site The Fabulous Stains, as well as music with your band, Jessi Jae Joplin and the Ruckus. Do you lean more heavily towards one of those worlds over the other, or do they go hand in hand for you? I strongly believe fashion and music go hand in hand. For me, one would not be complete without the other. Take rock and roll for example...what would the music be without the killer ensembles worn by the performers?! 2.) What would you say your signature style is or reflects? I think my style is a mix of different subcultures. I don’t completely identify with just one, but instead pick different elements from various genres – like grunge, goth, hippie and even punk – and create my own signature look! 3.) What are the key inspirations for your style? What kinds of things influence an outfit for you? My surroundings usually influence my outfit choices. I love playing "dress-up" and really getting into a character or vibe when I go out. For example, channeling the late 60s era when attending a music festival or Seattle grunge when attending an underground music venue. 4.) Who are your top style icons? I am very inspired by films, so my top style icons happen to be characters from my favorite movies. Like Susan in Desperately Seeking Susan (played by Madonna), Wren in Smithereens, Cece in Modern Girls and Corinne Burns in Ladies and Gentlemen The Fabulous Stains. 5.) Tell us a little about your site, The Fabulous Stains. What is it and when did you launch it? The Fabulous Stains website was launched almost a year ago now. It started as an inspiration blog between me and a close friend and has grown into sort of an army of cool chics from around the world - all contributing creatively to the site. We style photoshoots, sell vintage clothes, model, blog and most importantly inspire one another! 6.) Can you tell us a little about where you're from and how you kick-started your career? I grew up in a suburb near San Francisco, CA and am so blessed to have lived so close to so much art and culture. It definitely shaped my desire at an early age to have a career in the arts.
in fashion and music, do you find that the vibe there energizes you? Yes, living in Los Angeles and being surrounded by so many creative and driven people definitely energizes me. It’s so inspiring to be actually living in the center of the entertainment industry. I'm so thankful.
7.) Los Angeles is such a hotbed for fashion and pop culture today. Considering your career and interests
8.) What would your ultimate outfit look like? My ultimate outfit would be one raided from the closet of The Spice Girls!
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such a close nit group of friends (all very talented and creative) who inspire me on a daily basis. 10.) What's a typical day like for Jessi Jae Joplin? My days are constantly changing, but I usually wake up around 8am and start reading and writing my daily blog posts (and answering emails). I then get ready for the day, which can consist of anything from a photoshoot or visiting a fashion showroom to songwriting. At night I like to attend fashion events here in LA or go see live music (which I blog about the next day, of course)...and then do it all again the next day. 11.) Do you get to do a lot of traveling through your blogging and, if so, what are some places you've been to? Yes, I’ve been fortunate enough to travel to some super cool places through blogging. My favorite experiences have been traveling to music festivals – like South by Southwest in Austin, TX, Treasure Island music festival in San Francisco, Electric Daisy Carnival in Las Vegas and Warped Tour in San Diego! 12.) Let's talk a little about the music. What can you tell us about your band and the inspirations behind your music? My band is called The Ruckus. I am the lead singer (along with a super talented guitarist, bassist and drummer). We are very influenced by classic Rock & Roll, but still try to include many current components – like electronic and pop beats! 13.) What's a performance like for your when you're on stage? I am extremely outgoing and energetic when I perform. I like to interact with the crowd, dance a lot and most importantly: HAVE FUN!
9.) You have a vast network of similarly young friends in fashion, be they bloggers, designers, etc., who all seem to support one another. The fashion industry can be a competitive arena. How important is it for you to have this amazing network of young fashion creatives all behind one another? Yes, both the fashion and entertainment industries can be very cut throat and competitive - but I believe it's extremely important to support and uplift one another instead of competing. I'm so thankful to have
14.) Have you ever considered launching your own fashion line? I’ve definitely considered launching my own fashion line someday. I can totally see this being something under The Fabulous Stains – combining all our rad styles, so there would be something for everyone. That would be so dope! 15.) Is there anything exciting that you're currently working on right now for the future? Right now I’m working on writing and recording new tunes for my band in the studio! I can’t wait to finish my EP and for everyone to hear the new music we’ve created! Written by: Erica Russell Thanks to Neon Castle PR
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L.A Salami
L.A S ALAMI Words by Dylan Thomas
Firstly would you like to introduce yourself to our readers and tell us a bit about your past? My name's L.A Salami, which stands for Lookman Adekunle Salami. When I was younger I had an anxious habit of biting my nails into the flesh, which I stopped doing when I had to teach myself how to guitar-pick. I also wrote and played-out several Oscar worthy blockbusters using only the Lego I had from the age of seven. No, there is no evidence either of these things happened. Your lyrics seem to be very much storytelling. Is there something which usually inspires you? Life, living, people. For it to sound like storytelling is sometimes unintentional, I don't always have a story to tell, but if I'm going to sing a song to you I feel that I have to tell you something. In your biography it states that you slept rough and were moved around a lot. Has this helped your form your opinions in the world which comes through your music? I slept in rough places because I didn't like where I was staying. People help me form my opinion of the world. Sometimes they make you want to sleep rough, sometimes they can make you want to live forever. One of the first things people will hear in your music is the combinations of harmonica and guitar and will instantly draw comparison to historical artists. How do you feel about this. Who would you love to be compared to? I'd rather they drew the comparisons because of how the music speaks to them, but besides that, you use great artists you admire as stepping stones towards the authentic artist you admire in yourself and would like people to see. If you get comparisons along the way, that's only natural, but by the middle eighth of that road i'd like to be my very own creation. The authentic version of whatever it is I happen to be. You have been on the station sessions and Burberry's acoustic sessions. How is it getting recognition by such brands? Very nice, flattering, appreciated and helpful With this being our graduation issue we would say that you defiantly have a degree from the university of life.
What would your advice to others you meet be? Consider yourself individually, without regret, whilst considering all others, collectively and individually, without disregard. You have worked your way up through the open mic circuit in london. how would you describe that? A good laugh a lot of the time. Miserable on wintry weeknights with an empty wallet. Your lyrics discuss the human condition. Yet your look on life may be described as somewhat pessimistic. Do you feel like this or is it subconscious? I'm an optimistic cynic I would say. I don't really feel pessimistic about anything. If there's good in something, i'm with you, if there's not, I won't say that there is. A pessimist hopes he is wrong, a cynic knows that he isn't. If our readers where to listen to just one song of yours today what would it be and why? Nazis on the Northern Line - it's an optimistic, cynical song. Are there any other artists that you have met or worked with who you also think are worth people checking out? I ran into a band called Francobollo the other week. They are the real thing. This year NME stated this is the year that guitar music will be back. What are your thoughts on a statement like that? Things come in waves, some waves are better than others, a guitar music wave is better than a autotoned empty headedsinger wave, the wave is down to the current of the people, the industries, the journalists, if you want a good wave you've gotta make a good wave happen. What is next for you? The stars I see when I'm laying in that Carnival gutter. And the music I hear when I imagine touching one of them. Words by Dylan Thomas lasalmi.get-ctrl.com
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What is your musical background? Where did it all begin for you and how did you become ‘Tommy Trash’?
Interview with Ronny Krieger (Label Manager 50 Weapons)
Interview by Jez Hartwell and Johhny Goddard
TO MMY TRASH
I started playing the piano when I was about 4 years old. I ended up going to university studying classical piano and classical trumpet, and studying composition as well. And then I started to go nightclubbing… And then somewhere along the line, the classical music turned into kick drums, synths etc. I mean I can't pinpoint a particular time, it just evolved somehow over the time at uni. That's where it all begun. You are currently residing in California, how does the music scene differ from your home country of Australia? The States remind me where Australia was at about 5 years ago… In the whole sort of energy, and also simply the way that the kids are responding to music. Even the style of music in a way… except now it's on a much larger scale… a MUCH larger scale. This being said I think a lot of the sounds the kids are into right now are not that different than what we started going into quite a while ago. It's a weird feeling… It has been bubbling for a long time and now it has reached a point of no return definitely. It's really exciting to see and very exciting to be a part of it. Really inspiring actually. When you sit down and begin work on new material, where do you start and what inspires you? What’s your process from start to finish and does the process differ much between remixes and original productions? The process certainly differs whether it's for a remix or for a production. I think it really depends on what material I have to work with. If it's a remix with a great vocal then I want to keep the vocal intact and I start with the vocal then the kick drums. And I'll work from there. If it's an original I might be experimenting with the sound on its own and that sound will become the founding stone of the whole track. But sometimes that same thing can happen with remixes as well! So it really depends on the elements I have in my hands, and a lot of other factors like my mood of the day, etc. We noticed you use Ableton when crafting your tracks. Have you always used Ableton and what do you like about it? I haven't always used Ableton actually. I've used a bunch of audio programs. But Ableton for me was just the one I felt like I could get my ideas out the quickest and it allowed me to experiment a lot more. It is a lot less rigid than other programs. It just works for me, I love it. I'll probably stick with it for a few more years. What other software/hardware is essential for creating that signature ‘Tommy Trash’ sound? Yes there is a lot of other plug-ins that I use with Ableton. All the Native Instrument stuff is amazing, I love all the Arturia synths, I love a distortion plug-in called Ohmicide, which is awesome, and then there is a bunch of plug-ins made by a company called U-he. There is obviously a lot more than just Ableton to deal with. What is the most played song on your iTunes, and what is your most recently added?
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Let me have a look! What is the last thing I bought? I'm not gonna lie, I'm not gonna try to sound cool. The last song I actually bought was U2, 'Where The Street Have No Name' and then the one before was 'Don't You Worry Child' by Swedish House Mafia! And before these some Chicken Lips songs. I was just thinking about making an edit of their song for Coachella, maybe if I can find the time… You’ve worked and released music through a range of labels including Ministry of Sound Australia, Refune, mau5trap and, more recently, Fool’s Gold Records. How do you end up working with these different labels and does this influence your productions? Usually working with the labels… With most labels there is some main DJ that is heading the label and inspiring the sound of it. So working with these labels happened quite naturally, the main artist of the label, like A-Track for Fool's Gold hit me up and tells me 'let's do something together' or 'do you want to remix something for our label' or ' do you want to remix me', you know what I mean. So that's how it happened for all the labels I've been working with so far, for Ingrosso's label, for Tiesto's label… It's always that personal contact from one of the main DJs. Then the sound that you produce for each label can be different. I think you're given the opportunity to showcase different sides and aspects of your production. That's why I work with a lot of different labels, it lets me explore different kinds of sounds, in particular when my sound doesn't quite fit the one of the DJ who wants to work with me. You’ve done a fair few collaborations throughout your career, A-Trak, John Dahlback, and Tom Piper to name a few. Who has been your favourite artist to work with and why, and who can we look forward to hearing you collaborate with next? (Laughs) They are all my favourite! Every artist has different skills and they bring something different on the table. I have to say that John Dahlback was probably my favourite producer, I think he's making the most creative big room stuff. When he makes this kind of left outside of big room House stuff… This guy's brain is incredible. I don't know how he thinks. Working with Ingrosso for 'Reload' was also one of the most inspiring moments of my life. He was a musical hero for me, I used to go out and nightclubbing to his songs! Before I was even Dj'ing or started to produce music. So working with him, with someone of that level of experience, of wisdom, is pretty cool as well. Everyone is very talented in their own way! I just hate choosing favourites sorry, I'm not that kind of person. I’m working on something with Tiesto but we're not quite sure, we're still tweaking that at the moment. The music industry is ever evolving with sub genres branching off in every direction, how do you keep up with music evolution? It kind of confuses me to be honest. All the different names… I just make music that I love, I play music out that I love, and hopefully i'm gonna stay relevant. I always try to keep an open mind to the new sounds. Sometimes I get sent sounds that I don't really like but I'll always try to give it a go. And then you play it in a club and think 'Ah! Now I get it!'. And that happens quite often. So I always try to see how the crowds react.
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Since you’ve started touring, what has been the best event/festival you’ve played at so far and which country does it best for you in terms of crowd and music scene? Best Festival: Tomorrowland in Belgium. Not just because of the actual gig there. Everything linking up to the gig, the whole organisation, the structure of it. Everything is run really tight. These guys are on it, from the very beginning, right to the end. I can’t fault them. There’s about 20 stages in a massive field. The stage I held last year had 2 or 3 waterfalls. I'm back there this year and I can't wait. I love gigs in the UK and US as well of course. When you’re playing a DJ set, do you play ‘off the cuff’ and ‘go with the flow’, or do you pre-prepare, strategise and plan meticulously beforehand knowing that the crowd are going to love whatever you dish out? If I'm playing a headline show, there is always a certain percentage of my set that is gonna be my own tunes, my own remixes and originals etc. But most of the time apart from my intro, I don't really plan any of my set. You just figure it out with the vibe. Depends what the person before you was playing, some DJs will be banging it out super super hard and you'll have to be up to the challenge! If you could join forces musically with any artist/musician/ band, dead or alive, who would it be and why? I've got a crush on Dave Grohl. I've got a big man crush on him! I grew up listening to Nirvana, and have always been looking up to him. Then he blew up and he did the whole Foo Fighters thing… And these early tunes were amazing! I'd love doing a remix for him, that's definitely one of my dreams. Which upcoming music artists would you say we should really look out for in 2013, and is there going to be a debut Tommy Trash LP on the horizon? I'm working on a LP, indeed, I've got a lot of club stuff, and have been working on quite a few down tempo tunes as well. So whether it's gonna be a Tommy Trash LP or not I'm not sure yet. I'd prefer to make it as a chill out album with a couple of dance bangers on it. New artists to look out for: KillaGraham. He's a dubstepbassline producer, he does a main room sort of electro and he's super creative, really awesome, definitely a one to watch in 2013. What words of wisdom would you give any upcoming musician trying to make their mark in the music industry? Right now, it's more important than ever to just work your ass off. The States raised the bar so high now… Back in the days it was all about getting fucked up and partying, nowadays the young guys coming out are really serious. That's a realistic career option for a lot of young kids. There is a lot of money to be made. And these kids start at a very young age, they are working hard and not partying a lot. In some ways it's cool, in some ways it's kind of sad. It's party music, how can you make it without a partying spirit? So yes, word of wisdom would be: work really hard, go with your feelings, take people’s feedback but take it to a certain extent only. When people hear something different their automatic reaction is to reject it. And that could be a new kind of sound or a new genre! Tommy Trash
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THE SH
Interview by D
From Exeter (UK). The Sherpas has been generating a local and national buzz making quite a name for themselves. They are young musicians and stunning live performers, they flip from memorable indie rock to pure passion. Now Soirée sees them racing to ever greater heights. Wave To The Water taken from the forthcoming EP Soirée out June 27th. Can you introduce yourselves and your music to our readership? Jake Daniel- Guitar/vocals Chris Tilke- Bass/Vocals Pierre Roxon- Vocals Ben Milverton- Guitar James Fuke- Drums Greetings from Sherpa HQ we are from South West England. We bring you hard rock and we really mean it. How did The Sherpas come to form? Ben: The Sherpas were already a band before Pierre and I joined. They were originally a four piece but the more the merrier I guess. Pierre: We met whilst studying music in Exeter; we were friends before we were a band.
How did you guys come up with the name? Pierre: We wanted a name for a gang and it worked. We keep on getting Facebook messages from real Nepalese Sherpas! You have support from the likes of Joy Division and New Order's Peter Hook. How does it feel to have gained support like that? Jake-Well it's a great feeling knowing that someone as well respected as Peter Hook has listened to our music and enjoyed it. Pierre: It means a lot to have someone recognize a band at the beginning of their career. But all in all, the support from everyone has been exceptional. You worked with Oonagh Thorn on your new music video. How did that collaboration come about? Pierre: When I was writing the lyrics to “Wave To The Water” (our new video) everything fell into place, I knew who had to make the music video. We love collaborating with artists; she is doing some great work and is based in Brighton studying illustration and it just so happens that she’s also my girlfriend. How would you describe your music? Jake: Our music is constantly developing as we grow as musicians, you can hear a wide range of influences going into
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HERPAS
Dylan Thomas
each song, which reflects our tastes as individuals and as a group. Ben: Our music retains musical depth whilst also being accessible to the general public. I like the label "Progressive Indie Rock". We are currently exploring more ambient and minimal guitar parts in our writing. I am always trying to write in strange tunings so I can bring as many guitars with me on gigs as possible. You have quite a heavy tour schedule already. Is it hard to keep up with it when you are a smaller band?
Jack White, would be a brilliant. Pierre: I think collaborations with artists from different fields are the real deal. When working with Marc Heaton on our EP cover, his art helped inspire the sound. It is a two-way thing and we want to do that as much as possible. What would you say to other young musicians wanting to break into the industry?
Pierre: What we lack in organisation, we make up for in drive and energy. Things can be a bit hectic but gigging is what we live for at the moment. Come to a show!
Ben: The thing that has really helped us get somewhere has been a supportive parent. I know that’s not particularly rock and roll but they have really supported us in what we are doing. Entering battle of the bands contests and being part of open mic nights is a great way to gain fans and make a name for yourself.
This is our graduation issue. Have any of you members graduated and what did you study?
Pierre: When people call you pretentious, don’t stop doing whatever is you are doing.
Pierre: We have all got a few A levels or Diplomas, nothing fancy.
What’s next for The Sherpas?
Back to the music. Collaborations are an important part of music today. Are there any producers or artists that you would like to work with? Jake: There are so many great musicians and producers out there, but to get the opportunity to work with groups who have inspired us to make music, such as the Maccabees or
We are just about to release our EP Soiree; it’s a statement of intent. The reviews we have had so far have been ace. The Sherpas will be releasing new music videos, collaborating with some brilliant artists and coming to a town/city near you. Get on the Sherpa wagon! (It’s a silver mondeo driven by Jake)
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Little Shilpa
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Photographer: Ella Nash Stylist: Hannah Oakley Stylist’s Assistant: Katie Grace Designer: Little Shilpa at Felicities PR Words by Nicola Goodman
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Little Shilpa is growing fast, but how did it all begin? Born and bred in Bombay, I was a science graduate who then studied fashion at SNDT University in India; I then went on summer school courses at Central Saint Martin’s and the London College of Fashion. After this, I worked as an independent designer for two years before moving on to work as a fashion stylist for various magazines and Channel V; all whilst making headpieces for shows and editorials. I wanted to do more than designing and creating clothes, I wanted endless possibilities. I would create my own accessories when I styled shoots and on impulse I made a small collection, shot my own look book, packed my bags and came to London. After a while I came back to India and got in touch with Lakme fashion week to convince them they needed to do an accessory show, and that’s how it all began. What would you say is the ethos of the Little Shilpa brand? That if it can be imagined, it can be done. The inspiration of Little Shilpa comes from travelling and interaction with culture. It is a unique concept that does not transcend time; it takes on a form of its own. Little Shilpa creates this co-existence by combining the past with the present, decadence with clean and simple design. Can you take us through your design process? My designs are a representation of how I feel. It’s never driven by a trend forecast or norms that I need follow. I like my pieces to be individualistic as they carry their own story, the end result of which is one-off pieces that have no twin. I always start with a sketch; it helps to manifest that image in a more realistic and edited form. My pieces are like a canvas as they personify an aspect of my visual influence from observation to execution. Will you be diversifying? We're thinking Clothing, handbags? I started off with designing clothing then moved to millinery and then accessories as I wanted to work with new raw materials every day. I am interested in the amalgamation of various raw materials and textures and how they work with and against each other. So yes I am slowly going back to clothing, but just simple and easy designs. In the past I have done bags for my Walt Disney
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collaboration in India and I’m currently working on art projects and photographic installations. Let’s talk social media and the celebrity... Facebook or twitter? Twitter Instagram or vine? Vine Who is your most famous client to date? Lady gaga Who would be your dream client? Tilda Swinton Who is your style icon? Isabella Blow!!! She defined the pieces she wore and not the other way around; she carried style, design, impracticality and quirk all together. Would you like to do more LFW collaborations? I would absolutely love to! I started off my career styling and doing collaborations with designers whilst working on someone else’s collection and creating pieces that work in tandem with this. It is a very challenging, but exciting process, to compliment and not over power an existing creation. What can we expect from Little Shilpa in 2014? I love the space that I’m in now, it’s between fashion and art. I would like to continue doing my installation pieces as I think that these are a starting point towards scaling down the sizes into a wearable piece. I endeavour to create a fashion and art cult brand. Where is your happy place? I love love love being in London! Give us three words that best describe Little Shilpa? Melancholy decadence, post-modernist, romantic science Words by Nicola Goodman
http://www.littleshilpa.com/
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OLD THING LONDON Words by Zaena Miller http://www.thisoldthinglondon.com/ This Old Thing London was born out of a love for quality vintage at its finest, Founder, Charli Evans, is only twenty-six years of age and has a natural eye for exquisite one-of-akind pieces; a trait which runs smoothly through her blood as she is the child to antique dealers. This Old Thing London specialises in unique high-end costume and designer jewellery from across the globe. Charli Evans graduated with a first in Fashion PR from the prestigious London College of Fashion, and interned with jewellery designer, Erickson Beamon, before working as a fashion PR executive. That’s not all; six months were spent travelling around South East Asia where inspiration was drawn from the abundance of craftsmanship in the region. Combining these experiences with a natural flair for seeking out the rarest of gems, the business has gone from strength to strength with a shop on Portobello Road, an e-shop, and an ASOS Marketplace boutique. This Old Thing London boasts a diverse clientele from celebrities to the eccentrics that frequent the antique trade.
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We’d love to know, in brief, how “This Old Thing London” started… This Old Thing London started as a spark while I was doing my Design Technology A-level at school. I was commissioned to create a piece of jewellery to retail for a commemorative occasion by the school and it ignited a passion for jewellery design and retail. I interned at the world famous Erickson Beamon before starting my degree and have kept a keen eye on all aspects of the jewellery trade which resulted in the creation of TOTL. Being a child to parents who dealt with antiques, were you introduced to wearing unique pieces and elaborate jewellery from a young age? From a very young age my father kept choice pieces of fine antique jewellery and diamonds to gift to my mother. Unbeknown to her, my little sister and I found her jewellery boxes and we used to dress up as ‘ladies’ sauntering around the house in jewels we then didn’t think twice about but now would give our right arm to own! The house was an eclectic mix of antiques and jewellery while I was growing up and; coming from a very hands on, inclusive, family we were always at our father’s side, often sleeping underneath the stands at the antique fairs and so we became acquainted with the precious and unusual from a very early age. This allows me to be very objective as a woman dealing in a similar field and it has given me an unrivalled knowledge for my age. How did your interest from jewellery begin with studying for a degree in Fashion PR? While I was studying for my fashion degree at London College of Fashion I was based in Davies St in London. This meant that I was living at home and worked for my parents at the weekend. I quite quickly realised that my interest in fashion and my passion for jewellery could work together to give me an edge in the industry.
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Did you ever consider pursuing a different career path, or was being part of the family business important to you? Being a part of the family business was always important to me. However I did waiver after leaving school for a while but I put this down to being a rebellious 18 year old. I quickly realised how lucky I was to have a family I love to work with and who I can learn so much from. Once I firmly decided to work in the family industry I quickly carved a niche for myself (we had never previously sold any costume jewellery) and that has allowed me to start my own business and work with them for ideas and support as a part of that. Your antiques shop is based on Portobello Road, how do you find this differs from also being in a shop along Hackney Road? I buy on commission for the shop on the Hackney Road and we have a small collection of more affordable pieces there. I find that for the Hackney Road we have to source much more affordable, fashion jewellery (similarly for the ASOS Marketplace) as opposed to the rare designer pieces that we showcase on Portobello Road. We can only imagine that you’ve discovered some amazing pieces; but what do you look for when sourcing jewellery? Love. I really have to love a piece in order to be able to sell it. With the more affordable ranges we do I look for trend lead pieces that can be sold for a small profit allowing people to buy into the brand. However my main business involves the purchasing of rare pieces seldom found
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on the market and this requires an emotional response. There is jewellery everywhere, anyone could go to a market and buy some jewellery to sell but it is all about knowledge and selection. I research, look, learn, love, before I buy anything and this makes for a highly selective collection which my clients value. Is it important to you for a piece of jewellery to be loved before it reaches This Old Thing London? I don’t buy anything that needs excessive restoration to make it beautiful (something that I learnt from my father). Our clients deserve to know that what they are buying is authentic and original, not extensively repaired as it devalues the item, so therefore we steer clear of damaged pieces. It is, therefore, very important that an item has truly been loved and looked after before it reaches us. Do you feel there has been a change in the jewellery market over the past years? There has been a huge shift in the recent past, from mass produced market driven style to a desire for the much more unique. It seems that people value individuality more as money is harder to come by and ‘off the cuff’ purchasing has dropped. When a client falls in love with a TOTL item they often take pictures of themselves in it, we talk about the item and its origins, they go away and think then come back and we do the deal. This has not always been the case in the jewellery industry as once upon a time impulse buying was the order of the
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day. This shift to valuing the more unique can be seen also in the trend for vintage interiors and locally produced food. The cheap is out the unique is in. Is there anyone you would love to see wearing your pieces? We see our brand as inspirational both in a style and price point sense, and therefore the celebrities and public figures that we would love to see in TOTL reflect this. Trend setters such as Alexa Chung and Fearne Cotton as well as inspirational fashion figures, for example Victoria Beckham and Kim Kardashian, but also the red carpet beauties like Rosie Huntington Whitely. We’ve noted that Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior are names that often crop up; are there any others that you admire within the industry? I personally love the more unusual designers that created one off and rare statement pieces. We currently have a museum quality collection of “Joseff of Hollywood” jewellery (Joseff created all the jewellery for the Hollywood beauties in the mid 20th Century, to name one of many, Liz Taylor in Cleopatra). Another designer I particularly admire is Larry Vrba, who, working out of New York, creates truly one off, stunning pieces of jewellery; for example our Buddha cuff. How do you feel that the demand for vintage
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designer jewellery can be compared to that of vintage clothing? The two industries are very distinct. The way we market our jewellery is as one off statement pieces. I personally have a wardrobe full of modern clothes and I accessorise with statement 80’s jewellery. My clients have a similar style and very rarely wear vintage clothing. The market for vintage clothing however is very strong and it only takes a walk down Portobello road to see that it is selling well and has a strong demand. I think that when it comes to vintage anything there are two very distinct sides. High end, like us for jewellery and, for example William Vintage for clothing highly selective, designer, inspirational versus a low end cheap ‘market style’ vintage that appeals to teenagers and vintage style dressers. Each has its place to create an individual style but I do strongly feel that the vintage jewellery and clothing market are fundamentally mutually exclusive. Finally, do you have any plans for This Old Thing London in the near future that we should be aware of? We are in the process of expanding our network. We recently started supplying the Dress Box Vintage department at Liberty of London and we are in talks with other large retailers and boutiques to expand the reach of TOTL. We are also currently working with a fantastic web designer to expand the worldwide reach of the brand focsing on e-commerce
Words by Zaena Miller
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Buoyancy
BUOYANCY THEY FLOAT AMONGST US Photography - Irvin Rivera Stylist - Beilyne Lautchang MUA - Pa Kou Xiong Hair - Alex Thao Assistant - Benjamin Kui & Malcom Joris Bacani Models - Andreas and Kimberly
Andreas wears Coat from Spiewak, Jeans Mishka, Necklace Forever Strung, Crown Alex Thao, Shoes Girlbaud
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Andreas wears Blue Long sleeved shirt - Pendleton, Brown coat Ben Sherman, Necklace - Forever Strung, Underwear Kings Underwear Shoes Girbaud, Socks - Trukfit
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Kimberly wears Dress - Veejay Floresca, Earings by Shashi, Braclet - 8 other reasons and Cali, Boots Ami Wear
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Kimberly wears Dress - Veejay Floresca, Earrings Shashi, Necklace Accesories B, Shoes Sole, Bracelet Agaci
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The fresh feeling as the salty
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Photographer - Aimee Stoddart Stylist - Emma Gaffy Model - Gisele Pletzer Viviens Model Management Makeup artist - Rose Moffat All clothing Vintage
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All clothing Vintage
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D i l u t i o n Dilution She mixed in effortlessly
Photography: Olivia Richardson Styling: Sophia Probett MUA: Emily Franks Models: Tornie and Joanna @ FM
Dress: Hiroko Nakajima Earings: Butler and wilson
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Jacket and trousers: Shimo Zhou Shoes: Topshop Earrings: Stylist own
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Top: Melika M , Trousers: American Apparel Necklace: Topshop Sunglasses: Jeepers peepers
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Top: Shimo Zhou Sunglasses: Asos Necklace: Stylist own Earings: Butler and Wilson
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Dress: American Apparel Gloves: Beyond retro Necklace: House of Liza Earings: Vintage
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Skirt: Michael Marlow Bra: American apparel Choker: Stylist own Necklace: Fiona Paxman
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BOYS BO Photographer Helen Kirkbright Stylist Hannah Oakley Male grooming Madeline Scantlebury All Male Models FM Models
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ONES TO WATCH
OYS BOYS
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ADAM LOFT SHULTZ ADAM LOFT SHULTZ wearing T-SHIRT- TOPMAN
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FRED
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FRED CLARKE wearing VEST- AMERICAN APPAREL
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GLEN ARBANTES wearing EASY JUMPER- TOPMAN
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JAMES
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KURT HERBST wearing T-SHIRT- TOUNE DE TRANSMISSION DENIM GILET- RELIGON
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Thank you
T HAN K YOU We want to say a huge thank-you to all of the contributors, both from the UK and around the world for Issue 8, our graduate special; And of course a huge congratulations to every graduate this year. Welcome to the creative industries and we wish you the best of luck. Thanks go to our home-grown and international music talents and all of the PR's and managers who made this all possible. Our theme for the Autumn issue is NEW BREED and we hope to continue to entertain you. As a contribution based magazine, we look forward to seeing new work from all over the world and can't wait to see what you have to show us. Until next time. Peace x
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www.noctismag.com Summer 2013
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