Noir Magazine by Noir Magazine

The Lon d o n F a s h i o n W e e k I s s u e October 2010 Special Collectors Edition

EDITOR’S LETTER As I star ted the maniac pack ing for LFW, I was decid ing on whether to br ing a coat or not; will it be rainy rainy old London or will the sun ac tually come out? Whilst de bating this I realised how strange we fashion folk are; prepar ing for Autumn/Winter weather as we go to attend the Spr ing/Summer shows and collec t ions, no wonder people find Fashion Week a little bit strange. But alas, we are here to preview the Spr ing/Summer collec tions to br ing you the new trends you will be spor ting nex t seaso n. You don’t even have to wait for the usual Februar y issues to hit the shelves to see what you will be buying: we at Noir have de cided to br ing you all this fashion k nowledge in one bumper special LFW edition. All the shows, pre sentations, exhibitions are in here for you to drool over. Plus we get inside the life of fashion designers such as Br yce Aime and David Longshaw, the funny and talented Fashion PR Por tia Shaw, st ylist Jack ie Dixon and T V Presenter Louise R oe and more in our special LFW I nter views sec tion. This issue we will also be featur ing a M enswear S ec tion where we wi ll be br inging our lovely men the shows, presentations and how to dress for their shape; well it was only fair! The lovely Calum B est will tell you all about his exper iences of the fashion industr y in his column and we pay tr ibute to one of the greatest talents in the fashion industr y ; Alexan der M cQ ueen. I’m sure you’ll agree it ’s a great issue and I hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoyed compiling it. M assssive special thanks to all our contr ibu tors for their hard wor k and running around London to br ing you this issue! M ake sure you enter our Br itain’s Nex t Top M odel competition for your chance to win one of 10 pairs of tickets we are giving away for the special live fashion event in London at the end of O c tboer where you can pamper and shop til you drop! G et your entr ies in quick ly.

access, inter viewing/swaying on a yacht and near ly chok ing on a faaar too spic y Nandos! O nes to wa tch: Elliott J Fr ieze is definitely one to watch for the future, I love designers who take r isks and he is one of them. K irst y Ward is going to be huge! I have always been a suppor ter of Craig Lawrence also. One to definitely get on your radar now before he explodes (his profile that is) is David Longshaw, not only is he a genuinely nice guy and passionate about fashion and ar t, he has an immensely great eye for detail and his S/S 11 collec tion is just lush. Top Tip for those a ttending nex t seasons’ shows: B e prepared to run, A LOT. I f you have time ever y day to eat, sleep and ac tually see London, you are one ver y luck y fashionista! Follow Noir on Facebook and also on Twitter @leef ashionista. You can purchase Noir M agazine at w w w.magcloud.com. Hope you enjoy the issue!

The Editor ’s… Favourite show: M atthew Williamson. For the venue, star spotting and the to - die for collec tion. Favourite moment of fashion we ek : S ooo many from; near ly getting swept away by a helicopter at M atthew Williamson, meeting Jimmy Choo, getting backstage

Loves xxx

Leanne Milligan

Editor in chief Noir Magazine

NOIR Magazine CONTENTS EDITOR’S LETTER - 02 MEET THE CONTRIBUTORS - 04 The ones that survived fashion week that is. BNTM COMPETITION - 07 Fancy winning one of 10 pairs of tickets we are giving away to the Britain’s Next Top Model Live Event at the London EXCEL, then answer our simple question. GIRL ABOUT TOWN - 08 Our hip and fashion loving Daniela Morosini take us through her experiences of fashion week, and stealing enough vitamin water to make an ocean! HOUSE OF QUINN SHOOT - 10 There’s a new designer in town… BRITISH FASHION ICON - 19 This icon encapsulates the meaning of glamour dressing. CALUM BEST TALKS FASHION - 22 Ever wondered what it’s like to be an international model? Calum Best tells us all in his column. LONDON VS NEW YORK, PARIS & MILAN - 23 Can London really compete with the other fashion weeks around the globe? LFW INTERVIEWS SECTION - 29 LFW WOMENSWEAR SECTION - 77 -The shows -The Body Shape Guide -S/S 11 Trends: How To Guide LFW EXHIBITIONS SECTION -125 -At Somerset House -At On/Off & Vauxhall Fashion Scout - At the Shenzhen Exhibition OTHER EVENTS AT LFW - 152 -London Fashion Weekend -Sustainable Fashion at LFW -On the Street at LFW -High Street Fashion Week -London Fashion and Art MY STYLE WITH… - 164 This issue’s My Style With… features our very own, and glamorous Fashion Editor Lauren Hawes. MENSWEAR SECTION - 167 -The shows -The Body Shape Guide -S/S 11 Trends THE END OF THE CATWALK? - 177 Hannah finds out whether the catwalk has run out of steam. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN MEMORIAL - 179

MEET OUR CO Charlo tte T hwa i te s For me t h e b e st co ll e c tion at L o n d o n Fa s hion We e k wo u l d h ave to be Pa u l C o ste l l o e ’s collect i o n s . I l oved h i s chic d re s s e s w i t h bi g collars , a n d I t h o u g ht that h av i n g h i s m o d els we a r i n g boots with st r i k i n g b l u e c h e quered a u t u m n st y l e dresse s were t h e p e rfect m atc h . My favo u r i te B r it i s h Design e r wo u l d h ave to be V i v i e n n e We stwood. I f i n d h er i ntel lectual m et h o d o f d e sign fa s c i n at i n g . S h e has so m u c h c reat i ve energy, t h at we ca n ’t help b u t a d m i re h e r fashion . The tre n d s I w i l l b e embra c i n g n ex t s e ason are t h e fa u x f u r style a c c es s o r i e s a n d clothes . I t h i n k t h at with a b l a c k m i l i ta r y jacket a p a i r o f l e o p ard p r i nt fa u x f u r gloves wo u l d co m plete t h e l o o k . O r maybe t h e l e o p a rd print s atc h e l s t h at appear to b e ever s o famou s . One t re n d I wo n ’ t be atte m pt i n g i s t h e bright yel l ow p l a s tic effec t j a c ket s t h at have b e en p o p u l a r o n the cat wa l k . I t h i n k their b r i g ht yel l ow colour wo u l d j u st n o t suit m e.

S a ra h M a l l o n T h e Be st C o l l e c t i o n at L F W wa s E rd e m M y Favo u r i te B r it i s h D e s i g n e r i s B u r b er r y P ro rs u m T h e Tre n d s I w i l l b e e m b ra c i n g n ex t s e a s o n a re W h i te , l a c e, co l o u r f u l a c c es s o r i es O n e t re n d I wo n ’ t b e atte m pt i n g i s t h e C l a s h i n g p i n k a n d o ra n ge at C h r i sto p h e r Ka n e

Mandy Dineson What was you favourite moment at LFW? Believe or not, the atmosphere outside. With all the other fashionable people waiting to go in, it made it all more exciting What was the worst? When my camera re fused to work half way through the Juilien MacDonald collection! What was the best show/collection @ LFW? Felder Felder What would be your top tip for those going to next seasons shows? Don’t arrive only when the show is about to commence, come early and you could get some fab street style shots

Marion Sauvebois The favourite part of LFW for me was …The exhibiti ons and talking to so many different designers I wasn’t prepared for… Naked models on the catwalk (at Charlie Le Mindu) My favourite show… was actually a presen tation; Agi & Sam to be more specific. Here is my advice for those at next seasons shows: wear flats. There is a lot of run ning around involved!

Danielle Bangham Favourite British De si gner, Lolita fashion. I l ive on the Dark-side. Lolita produce a range which includes stud ded tops and chokers. I like ever y thing Black. Favourite British Model, I don’t do m odels!! Best thing about the British Fashion industr y is... The wide range of styles avail able. We don’t all have to be the same, do we? Worst thing about the fashion industr y is... Barbie girls!!

ONTRIBUTORS L auren Hawes My Favourite m o m e nt o f LFW was M eet i n g J immy Choo! My worst wa s S ta n d i ng in all those l ooooong qu e u es ! E s p ecially the q u eu e we waited in fo r ove r a n h our and n ever go t i n!! My Favouri te s h ow was ah! cant c h o o s e . . . Hannah Mars h a l l ? J a s p er Gar vida? P ro p h eti c? Jena Theo ? A dvice for n ex t s e as ons shows ? W EA R F LAT SHOES! ! ! ! ! !

J es s i ca S h e p h erd T h e b e st co l l e c t i o n at L F W wa s M a r y Kat ra nt zo u M y favo u r i te B r i t i s h designer is Mulberry T h e t re n d s I w i l l b e e m b ra c i n g n ex t s e as o n a re B l o c k co l o u rs O n e t re n d I wo n ’ t b e atte m pt i n g i s Neo n

D a niela Morosini M y favourite thing a b out LFW was bei n g able to see the n ex t season’s looks so c l ose, and the buzz I wasn’t prepared for t h e transformation of S o merset House’s en t ra nce into a massive st reet style blog ger ’s m eat market M y favourite show Pa ul Costelloe M y advice for those go ing to LFW next s e ason would be d o n’t take a drink w i th you, it ’ll weigh yo u down, pack light, b r i ng flats and be ready to shove!

Laura Grant Evans What was you fa vourite moment at LFW? Waking up on Saturday morning to find out I was in a street style article in The Times, nex t to a Vogue fashion editor! What was the worst? Knocking over a whole table of complimenta r y popcorn at the Ana Sekularac show. What was the best show/collection @ LFW? My favourite collection shown was Erdem with pretty prints, lace and flattering shapes. He seems to know the shape of women in side out! My favou rite show was Antipo dium. Advertised as a presentation, it was a relaxed, tea party atmosphere with deli cious cups of tea and hunks of cake. The clothes were pretty prints on sheer fab rics, midi skirts and men in short suits. What would be your top tip for those going to next seasons shows? Wear heels to make you feel great but take flats for run ning around in be tween shows.

Hannah Sheen My favourite thing about LFW was just the exciting atmo sphere and being surrounded by so many fashionable people! I wasn’t prepared for the huge waits getting into most of the shows. My favourite show was definitely Top shop Unique for its quirkiness. My advice for those going to LFW next season would be al ways bring a pair of flats or wedges with you- it ’s painful walking across the cobbles of Somerset House in massive heels!

Laura S m i t h My favo u r i te t h i n g about L F W wa s … M y first eve r L F W wa s five n o n - sto p d ays o f pure fa s h i o n ! A p a r t from t h e c l o t h e s , my favour i te t h i n g wo ul d have to b e t h e c e l eb encounters ; J i m my Choo at o u r ve r y f i rst show a n d A l exa C h u n g at Mu l b er r y ! ! ! ( Pa rtying at M a h i k i a n d drinkin g co c kta i l s o u t of coco n u t s ca m e a close s e co n d ! ) I wa s n ’ t p re p a re d for… I wa s n o t p re pared fo r gett i n g my heel st u c k i n t h e f l o o r at one o f t h e p re s e n tation s ( a s i f t h e p res ence o f t h e s u p e r- s l i m model s d i d n ’t m a ke me fee l fat en o u g h a l ready! ) I wa s b eyo n d mortif i e d , e s p ec i a l l y when I s p o tte d t h e hole I’d l ef t t h e n ex t day … at l e a st I ca n say I l ef t my m a r k o n LFW! My favo u r i te s h ow … Withou t a d o u bt , my favour i te s h ow wa s Pam H o g g … n o t t h at I’d wea r a ny o f t h e clothe s b u t t h e p u re specta c l e o f i t b l ew me away ! My ad v i c e fo r t h o s e going to L F W n ex t season wo u l d b e … I f press, b e p re p a red for A LOT o f r u s h ing aro u n d b et we en shows a n d ve r y l i tt l e sleep - p a c k p l ent y o f painkil l e rs a n d p ro plus! A l s o, i f t rave l ling f ro m G l a s gow, save u p a n d f l y … at £11 th e 8 h r b u s j o u rney wa s c h ea p fo r a reason !

Lisa Wilks. Favourite thing about LFW: My favourite thing about London Fashion Week this season was receiving my Press Pass with my name printed. It makes you feel unique and exclusive. The pass is most defiantly a keep-sake. Worst thing about LFW: As I was the ‘Street Style’ scout and photographer, one of the worst things I found was trying to stop fashionable people in the street for a photograph, as LFW was extremely busy, as is every season, it was hard for anyone to give me their time. Favourite collection at LFW: The best collection I noticed at this seasons exhibition was from two designers called ‘Happie Loves It ’. Their designs were fun, colourful and unique. The natural beauty of Tuscany, Italy inspired these two designers to create collections for their friends, making everyone who wore their clothes feel happy. Now they create designs not just for their friends, but everyone else. My Top Tip for those attending LFW next season: A top tip I would give to anyone going to LFW next year, if they are wanting to be stopped by a street style photographer, is to be creative, different and inventive in your style. Stand out amongst the others. The weird and wonderful come out at LFW!

Aftab Ali The best collection at LFW? For me, the best collection at LFW was Carolyn Massey ’s. The colour palette she used is to my taste. I am more of an ‘earthy-tone’ guy over neon, definitely. Massey ’s collection was one of the more contemporary, yet wearable, from the whole of Menswear Day. Overall, I really admire how her pieces were quintessentially British. After all, home is where the heart is! My favourite British designer I would have to say is Ozwald Boateng. Although I rarely get the chance to kit myself out in cocktail wear, I have always been fascinated by The Suit. The suit is an outfit that really defines a man and has the power to make or break a guy. I was found myself, again, awestruck at Boateng ’s big LFW close. Celebrating 25 deserved years in the industry, Boateng ’s sense of mixing classic with subtle evolution is to be applauded. The trends I will be embracing next Summer? Again, I will be following Massey ’s trend. With Massey making clothes like this, there is absolutely no excuse for every chap to be anything but stylishly attired next season. One trend I won’t be attempting is the highwaisted shorts as demonstrated to us in the first show of Menswear Day – Topman Design. The ‘emaciated schoolboy ’ has never been a good look on me.

Editor-in-chief -Leanne Milligan Art & Design Director -Danielle Bangham Fashion Director -Laura Smith Fashion Editor -Lauren Hawes Writers: Marion Sauvebois Laura Grant Evans Daniela Morosini Aftab Ali Jessica Shepherd Mandy Dineson Sarah Mallon Charlotte Thwaites Hannah Sheen Julia Gaw

Win tickets to Britain’s Next Top Model Live 2010 2 2 n d - 2 4 t h O c to b e r - E x Ce l Lo n d o n

The ultim ate we e k e n d s h o p p i n g ex travaga n z a i s co m i n g to Lo n d o n for the fi r s t t i m e Eve r – B r i t a i n’s Nex t Top M o d e l L i ve, i s h e re f ro m the 22nd – 2 4 t h O c to b e r 2 0 1 0 , at ExCel in Lo n d o n’s D o c k l a n d s. Based on t h e h u g e l y s u cce s sful inter n at i o n a l re a l i t y T V s h ow - presente d by i nte r n at i o n a l s uper model E l l e M c Ph e r s o n - B r i tain’s Nex t To p M o d e l L i ve i s s e t to be Londo n’s b i g g e s t f a s h i o n a n d B eaut y fi x , a n d e ve r y gi r l ’s e s s e ntial event fo r t h i s s e a s o n’s t re n d s. Tak ing p l a ce a c ro s s t h re e d ays fro m 22n d – 2 4 t h O c to b e r 2 0 1 0 at the Ex Ce l Ce nt re i n Lo n d o n’s D o ck land s, d e d i c ate d fo l l owe r s of fashion a n d b e a u t y w i l l b e a b l e to exper i e n ce t h e u l t i m ate i n re tail thera py – a n e ve nt d e s i gn e d to br ing to l i fe t h e l i fe s t y l e a n d glamour o f B r i t a i n’s N ex t To p M odel, w i t h a ra n g e o f f a s h i o n shows, ex h i b i t i o n s, s h o p p i n g, beaut y, h e a l t h a n d f i t n e s s, a n d interac tive fe at u re s fo r t h i s Autumn and Wi nte r t re n d s.

Vi s i to r s will be able to exper ience o u r Ce ntral Champagne Bar, a s t u n n i n g 45minute Cat walk Show, fe at u r i n g an inspir ing range of f a s h i o n , with special appearances f ro m a l l of the gir ls from Br itain’s N ex t To p M odel ser ies 6, along s i d e to p music ac ts and spec tacu l a r l i ve enter tainment within the 3 0 0 0 s e at auditor ium.

HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO WIN.....

Th e re i s also the chance to lear n h ow to walk the walk like the pro fe s s i o n a ls on the Open Cat walk . Po u t a n d pose in the Paparazzi Zo n e w ith Company M agazine, i n d u l g e in free hair and beaut y m a k e overs in the Powder R oom, a n d l e a r n the tr icks of the trade f ro m to p industr y exper ts at the St y l e I con Wor kshops, or take a p e w o n t he Casting Couch where M o d e l s 1 will be seek ing out new f a ce s fo r their future fashion and b e a u t y c ampaigns.

To be in with a chance to WIN, simply answer the question below.

Th i s ye a r ’s event is also offer ing v i s i to r s the oppor tunit y to be in w i t h t h e chance of enter ing Livi n g T V ’s Br itain’s Nex t Top M odel S e r i e s 7 in 2011, with the BNTM Ap p l i c at ion Studio. B r i t a i n’s Nex t Top M odel Live is t h e m u s t-see fashion and beaut y e ve nt o f the year, with something fo r e ve r y taste all under one roof.

Ticket O ffer Br itains Nex t Top M odel Live is offer ing 10 luck y NOIR readers the chance to WIN one of 10 Pairs of tickets to the first ever Br i tian’s Nex t Top M odel Live, Lon don 2010.

Q uestion: Which ven ue will host Br itains Nex t Top M odel Live 2010? S end your answer, name, age, and address to our editor at leanne_milligan@hotmail.com. Comp etition closes 14 Oc tob er 2010. Winners will b e selec t ed at random and notified via email. Tickets will be sent our pr ior to the event. Travel/accomodation is not provided. For more infor mation on the show visit w w w.bntmlive

Girl About Town: Hits LFW By Daniela Morosini

If anyone reading my column has ever doubted my commitment to this job, I’d like to reference them to the current state of my hamstrings. The human body may well be a marvelous, capable and extraordinary thing, but it is still not designed to support running down Surrey Street in five inch heels, whilst cursing the papal visit for messing up the Tube network (another thing about the Tube – when that lady tells you that Blackfriars is closed and that you should alight at Temple and continue your journey “at street level”, she’s basically telling you in a very Radio 4 way to get off your backside and walk like a normal person. Gotta love London.) My legs are now prone to spasmodic fits of quivering when at circuit training, or pulsing aches when I once again try to wear heels. Thank Dolce that the pump is still considered acceptable footwear. Of course, regardless as to what impression I may have given you, this isn’t just a standard Saturday for me – oh yes, someone let Girl About Town loose at London

Fashion Week. In order to answer the obvious questions you’ll have if you’ve never been; no, there isn’t time to eat, which is why you praise the PR teams who put jelly beans in their goodie bags, no, it is not all glamour, as the scrum of style hooligans scrambling for a fourth-row seat at Henry Holland will tell you, but yes, yes it IS wonderful.

Where else can you share airspace with, and actually brush the now-famous Louis Vuitton cape of, Lilly Allen? Or be seated next to a woman who’s had so much plastic surgery that she looks like Heidi Montag in a microwave? A personal favourite celeb-spot was Paloma Faith in a floor length gold sequined cape and turban, shouting at Shingai Shoniwa waiting to go into Felder Felder – ah, only in Britain. Not all the famous faces were entirely welcome though; Amber Rose, we get that you’re bald, now please move

your shiny head out of my eyeline when I’m trying to watch the show. While the last goodie bag may have been nabbed, the last bottle of Moet sunk and the marquees cleared away, the accelerated heartbeat of every fashion PR tells you that Fashion Week hasn’t gone, it’s just resting until February. So if you do get to go next year, please learn from my mistakes and follow my fail-safe guide to surviving Fashion Week. One – beware the free booze. At presentations, handsome young men will ply you with wine, champagne and Bucks Fizz, but you can’t be seduced into more than one glass. No one wants to be the girl staggering along the Aldwych, clutching her press pass and mumbling something about how it’s about cyber-leopard print next season at 10am. Repeat, no one. Two, make sure your outfit looks good from all angles, but still allows for a speedy getaway. The street style blogger’s meat market, I’m sorry, courtyard of Somerset House is a battlefield, and if you’re lucky, you’ll only get stopped five times when you’re late for Bodyamr. Smile, give out a card, and move on quick. And three, if you’re unlucky enough to get a standing ticket (aka, persona non grata), there’s no reason why you should suffer it in silence, as the two slightly imperious Wintour wannabes at Paul Costelloe showed us. Oh no, just kick up a fuss, wave your arms around a bit, and pretend you’re on the list. That’ll work without a doubt. Thank goodness Girl About Town is a second-rower.....

COLOURS: bold blues, with black, red and yellow. Softer peachy tones with details in anything from fuchsia to acid green. FABRICS: stretchy cotton, hand knitted woolen pieces, jersey

MEETS YANG DU

GIRL ABOUT TOWN

THEMES: superheroes, cartoon characters, larger-than-life prints, animals

Fresh out of dressing Marina & The Diamonds and straight into her first season exhibiting with NEWGEN at London Fashion Week, Chinese-born Yang Du has a lot to look forward to. The future is definitely bright for this upcoming designer and the slowly building hype around her tongue-incheek pieces, but as far as Ms Du is concerned, the future is very, very whimsical too. Famous for that hippo dress, this season Du looked to her old childhood toys and dreams for inspiration when creating her “He Is A Superman” collection. The emotions stirred up by one particular romance and a visit to the Korean toy museum, with it’s torn apart and pieced back together “mutant” toys are signified in her surrealist interpretations of Superman, Batman, and my personal favourite, (and sadly missed off of the Marvel or DC rosters) Mr Crocodile. The memories from her youth and the games played are expressed in the childlike, costume-esque over sized tee shirts, but the sharp intensity that love showed, and her transition from a child into a globetrotting is reflected in the angular, sexy cuts and the flashes of flesh from the ever-so-mini mini dresses. The feeling of a playful take on love and heartbreak, on giggling in the face of adversity is shown in the whimsical pieces, and while the casual observer may simply dismiss Du’s work as dress up fun, the strong, confident and poised woman would be equally at home in a Mr Cherry Nose smock as her faithful Louboutins. Why? Because this work isn’t simply submitting to an expected ideal, it’s embracing the intensity of emotion with child-like glee, and smiling, tongue-in-cheek at the silly

hangers to display the creations, was a joy to see, a fact made even greater by the presence, and willingness to be interviewed, of Yang Du herself. GAB: When you design, who are you designing for? Who do you see in your clothes? YD: To be honest with you, I don’t see a person. I see a story, like a play, with everyone on stage wearing a costume. For that time, I am in the story too, experiencing it with them…but I do like Bjork! GAB: I can definitely see her in some of this! YD: She’s just so free, not caring about how she looks, but she always looks amazing.

old world we live in. Continuing in her usual surrealist vein, the pieces range from paneled jersey oversized shirts and tiny cocktail dresses, given fresh fluidity and silhouette by the keen eye of Du’s pattern cutting. Rather than clinging obviously to every curve, the pieces skim over the hips, coyly hinting at the figure beneath, but with an abundance of thigh on show, in case there was any danger of forgetting the calibre of woman you’re dealing with. Du has flexed her wool work muscles with the extensive range of knitted accessories, particularly the animal-themed headgear. The exhibition, wonderfully arranged by art director Jonny Buttons featured huge, Astroboy-themed helium balloons and squid tentacle-like

GAB: And how she uses her body to express herself! Marina’s a bit like that too. YD: Yes, and I think Marina’s really brave in how she translates music and art together…her stylist got in touch with my PR and said, “We want the whole collection!” GAB: So in your time at Central St Martins, were your tutors a big inspiration? YD: You know, I’ve been so lucky with the people I’ve met, my tutor Natalie Gibson is amazing. Outside of that, the library at St Martins was amazing, it had everything you could want, and the students around you too. GAB: So imagine someone who knew nothing about your work, or fashion, seeing it for the first time, what would you hope they would take from it? YD: To make it easy, they could just laugh. When they have a reaction, that’s good. When they don’t have a reaction, it’s not good. GAB: I think a lot of designers wouldn’t want people to laugh, but to you, that’s still someone enjoying it? YD: Yes, absolutely, it makes you connected, that reaction. I don’t try to be unique, if I ever try to be different, I can never be different. You just have to be yourself.

HOUSE OF QUINN INTERVIEW by Laura Grant-Evans

The House of Quinn’s debut collection was launched this summer and amongst the abundance of graduate collections to come out of Brighton, Julius Quinn Arthur was the name on everybody’s lips. He caused quite a buzz with his ghoulish, taxidermy-inspired collection. I caught up with the man himself on a windy day in Brighton where he gave me an insight into what’s behind the beautiful array of clothes showcased on the following pages.

You’ve just released your first collection. How would you describe it in your own words? Um...Unlike most collections that get produced in the conventional fashion way (by this I mean season to season with quite a fast turn around), this collection has obviously been a concept that has summed up four years of study. Fashion students are always so eager to create their first collection, as a final unveiling of their long learning process. It has been a difficult journey to get this far, and I still have a very long way to go, but the collection for me is about the beginning of an adventure and a way to interpret my interests. The collection is about life, which has been realised through death. Taxidermy may be a subject that many have looked at, but still, I feel that my personal fixation on it does not mean that I shouldn’t also tackle it as an inspirational subject. Looking at dead animals and birds through glass-fronted cabinets is just plain weird; all sorts of ideas stemmed from that! I have used my own interpretations of life and death to inspire the collection, which can ultimately be portrayed as adorning the female form in a second skin; an expressive, luxurious portrayal of a person’s taste. What was the inspiration behind it? As I mentioned before, the main theme is taxidermy. I studied the

making of taxidermy, the processes, the theories, the animals and birds involved, the culture and the reasons behind it. All these things culminated in a collection that is about process, texture, print and a ritualistic routed aesthetic that draws on ideas of H.P love craft, another world and a hidden meaning. What was the most challenging part of the process of producing the collection? To get the aspect of luxury into the work, the collection is based on theory and idea and visually, it is easy to portray a mood, or your inspiration. However, to get it spot on, the pieces in the collection need to be really well made, really stand out as quality garments and not come across as clothing, but as an object which is precious to own, and something personal to you. Craftsmanship and detail is key. What advice would you give to anyone wanting to become a designer? Follow your dreams and all that jazz, it sounds corny and is definitely not that practical. Fashion won’t pay your bills for the first few years, but as long as you love it you will experience and achieve great things. I am personally of the school of thought that you don’t have to be a fashion fanatic. As Anna Wintour said, “People are often frightened of fashion and because it scares them and makes them feel insecure, they put it down”. You have to enjoy it and love what you do; you don’t need to know every minute detail about every collection that

ever walked the earth; you don’t need to remember everything you ever get told: that would be impossible. I found in my learning that you end up filtering out what you don’t want to know and find a way of displaying what you do want to know about. Don’t get me wrong, you do need fashion knowledge, but be a creator, be inspirational, and make people feel something in what ever you do. If they hate it, love them for hating it! As long as they feel something about your work you’re moving down the right path. When was your fashion epiphany? I don’t know if you could say I had an epiphany, rather, it was a slow progression that was based on precollection research I looked at: hundreds of aesthetic influences and inspiration covering Biba, through to H.P Love craft, Khnopff, Rital, Make Believe, museums, talismans, taxidermy, and so on and so forth. From a huge collection of images and ideas, I used things that I was most drawn to. It stemmed from their really. What is it about British fashion that makes it special? Something made me laugh the other day because Daniel Meade of ‘Ugly Betty’ referred to London Fashion Week as the “training bra” of fashion weeks. British fashion for me is about two things, new talent and old names. It’s huge on new designers, struggling students and fashionistas trying to make it. However, it’s also the home of tradition and quality, brands and beautiful couture.

As a country, we have harris tweed, signature tailoring, a huge handmade skills base that has died out, but if you look hard enough and tap into it you will find amazing embroidery, knitting and hand crafted skills. Then there are the greats like Westwood, the late McQueen, and Phillip Treacey. British fashion has a lot going for it and a stamp of quality. I love British style and the fashion attitude here. No other quite matches it. How would you describe the fashion in Brighton and why did the city first attract you? Fashion in Brighton doesn’t exist. Not in the way that I think it should in these creative surroundings. It’s not the best place for a designer. If Brighton and fashion had to be associated, then it would be for style, individuality, vintage and shopping. Unfortunately in economic terms, there is not a place for fashion as a designer here. Having said all this, I am about to create the HOUSE OF QUINN from Brighton! Brighton attracted me because I had a few friends here and London was just not the place I wanted to be as a struggling student. I love Brighton and I will make it my goal to endeavour to explore it more now that I have made it my home. You’re planning to release a menswear collection next. Do you intend to stick with the theme of taxidermy? THE HOUSE OF QUINN is basically the long-term plan and will always be alive and amount to a large chunk of my fashion work. I am aiming to pursue a new couture fashion brand and label, producing exclusive collections of womenswear each year. But, like I said, this is the distant future, my goal and dream if you like. The menswear collection is the immediate future because I just feel that Brighton loves vintage, it loves style, it loves individuality and it likes to look good! With this in mind, I am aiming to set up a co-op of people, close friends, artists and designers to come together to create a new and different kind of diffusion from the HOUSE OF QUINN. The menswear line has no name yet and it’s

in the early stages, but although not based on taxidermy, it will not be far removed from my first collection of womenswear. I plan to combine art and fashion, eventually producing a show and creating a buzz. Its very exciting and I cannot wait to share it with you when it happens. What kind of difficulties do you envisage, moving from womenswear to menswear? None. As I mentioned, menswear is a different thing all together. Each project has its problems but you just have to separate them into manageable chunks. The brilliant thing is that at least I can now be my own advert wearing my menswear collections! Wearing a printed silk and crystal maxi dress to Tesco didn’t go down very well and I couldn’t quite pull off the heels! How would you describe the future for House of Quinn? The future is bright; the future is probably based on something macabre and totally odd, but it’s what I do. And I love it.

CREDITS DESIGNER: JULIUS QUINN ARTHUR, HOUSE OF QUINN PHOTOGRAPHER: KATE MURRELL HAIR AND MAKE-UP: HEATHER B STYLIST: LAURA GRANT-EVANS MODEL: SOFEE NADINE

BRITISH FASHION ICON:

Julien MacDonald By Mandy Dinesan

ondon Fashion week 2011 presented an array of talented designers from the well-established elite to the up and coming, and amongst the established was top British designer Julien MacDonald.

orn in Wales on the 19th March 1971, Julien was introduced to fashion at an early age, being taught knitting from his mother. It was this that developed Julien’s interest in design. By age 13 Julien was even creating cardigans for his family members using the skills he’d acquired from his parents.

espite his ability with knitting, Julien’s initial dream was not designing but to be a dancer. He had trained as a tap dancer however; a brief venture into a one year foundation course in textiles unveiled his talent for fabric designing, resulting in him enrolling on a textiles degree at The Faculty of Arts and Architecture, Brighton.

t the age of 25 soon after graduating and presenting his graduate col-

lection in 1996 at London’s Royal College of Art, where he had chosen to do his MA in knitwear, his strong ability and artistic flair in design was spotted by the fashion elite and it was Karl Lagerfeld who snapped him up and recruited Julien to work for him at Chanel.

mere year later, Julien ventured out on his own setting up his own company with which he debuted his collection at the prestigious London Fashion Week. The press loved it and the collection received high praise. Julien is known for having a great ability to publicize his shows, and his runway models have included supermodels like Naomi Campbell and celebrities like Mel B from the Spice Girls.

n 2000, Julien was successor to fellow British Designer Alexander McQueen as chief designer at French Haute couture house, Givenchy. In the same year, he was selected by British Airways to redesign their flight attendants’ uniforms. However the designs were controversial with woman

groups accusing Julien of turning the air stewardesses into sex objects.

n July 2001 Julien revealed his debut couture collection for Givenchy. It received rave reviews and saw Julien break away from his vintage signature designs and highlighted his technical mastery. Within the same year Julien was then named British Fashion Designer of the Year.

he welsh designer in 2004 then went on to make a more affordable range to appeal to the masses when he joined high street chain Debenhams whilst maintaining his couture designer status. Two years on his mastery in design was truly highlighted when in June 2006, he was awarded an OBE in the Queen’s Birthday Honours for services to fashion.

is knowledge of the fashion industry led to ventures into television, where he was a judge on the Sky One series Project Catwalk (the British version of Project Runway) critiquing designers, to 2010 where

he is now a judge on Britain’s Next Top Model critiquing models joining supermodel host Elle MacPherson, model Charley Speed and Top Stylist Grace Woodward.

ulien MacDonald’s pieces have been seen on an array of famous faces including Cheryl Cole, Kylie and Danni Minogue, Carmen Electra and Paris Hilton to name but a few. This has added to publicising the designer’s exceptional talent for design, and his constant ability to move forward with modern flair whilst maintaining a sexy femininity in every piece.

s the beautiful collection was drawing to a close, the deep blue hues and vibrant orange pieces seemed to draw inspiration from warm summer evenings to sunny beaches. The softness of the material had a feminine charm and gave the pieces a natural beauty.

ulien’s London Fashion Week collection for Spring/Summer 2011 revealed a softer feminine feel, with exquisite flowing dresses to baby doll dresses. The designer is known for his well fitted feminine ensembles; however his new free flowing collection is a breath of fresh air showing another dimension to the designers’ talents. The cool crisp seasons are embodied in the neutral tones the collection began with.

ulien MacDonald’s collections have always been inspiring and just when you think you know the designer’s signature styles, Julien always manages to shock and surprise his audience, unveiling different inspirations and technical ability that the designer utilises.

job, I went straigh t t o S a v i l e R o w and into Richard J a m e s t o g e t what I thought w a s a b e s p o k e suit - spent my £ 1 5 0 0 a n d l e f t proud that I had m y f i r s t t a i l o r made item. Whe n i n f a c t I h a d just purchased a b e a u t i f u l , b u t ill fitted suit from J a m e s ’ o f f t h e peg line. I was s t i l l l e a r n i n g a l l about it you see! Throughout my m o d e l i n g c a r e e r I have worked w i t h t h e m o s t i n credible photog r a p h e r s - B a iley, Elen Von Unw e r t h , W a t s o n , Testino, Demarch e l i e r e t a l . A n d worked for and d i d a d c a m paigns for design e r s a n d b r a n d s such as Guess, T o m m y H i l f i g e r , Calvin Klein, Vale n t i n o a m o n g s t many others. Th i s e x p e r i e n c e has made my sty l e e v o l v e a n d change through t h e y e a r s .

. . . s k l a T t s e B m u l a C

! N O I FA S H

H e l l o N o i r M a g azine readers! I ’ m C a l u m B e s t and I hope you a r e a l l h a v i n g a positive and p r o d u c t i v e d a y . I’d like to tell y o u a b o u t m y experience with fashion. G r o w i n g u p i n M alibu has really i n f o r m e d m y p e r sonal style. My f r i e n d s a n d I d r essed in a laid b a c k b e a c h s u r fer vibe. Board c a r g o s h o r t s , j e ans and T-shirts, c o n v e r s e a l l s t ars, those were a n d s t i l l a r e t o d ay - even at 29 m y f a s h i o n m a i n stays.

When I started modeling at age 15 I had the chance to travel the world. Jetting and living between the worlds fashion capitals - Milan, Paris, Tokyo, Hong Kong, New York and of course London. This really thrust me into the fashion industry with a mighty bang and influenced my personal style. I still loved the California style I had, but learn ed how to have fun with fashion a bit more. I remem ber when being in London and receiving a big cheque from a

Now slightly olde r a n d w i s e r , I tend to mix it up. I f a v o u r p u t t i n g a vintage pair o f j e a n s w i t h a slim fitted tee and a D o l c e j a c k et with customise d C o n v e r s e . I f the event I am go i n g t o i s s u p e r formal I go very p o l i s h e d i n a Jaeger suit or som e t h i n g b y O zwald Boeteng or O s c a r U d e s h i (both incredible t a i l o r s w i t h a modern spin on t h e c l a s s i c s ) . With regards to w o m e n a n d m y favoured ‘styles’ , I t h i n k t h a t a woman is sexies t w h e n s h e i s happy and confi d e n t i n h e r s e l f . The rest is secon d a r y . I f I s e e a girl in jeans and a v e s t t o p w i t h Converse, that to m e i s i n c r e dibly sexy. Equally t h o u g h , w o men look fantasti c i n s k y h i g h Louboutins! My fashion POV i s v e r y o p e n and I prefer an e f f o r t l e s s ‘ l o o k ’ to one that is con t r i v e d a n d u n comfortable look i n g . I l i k e t h e ‘wearer’ to wea r t h e c l o t h e s and not the othe r w a y a r o u n d ! Thanks Noir read e r s a n d I l o o k forward to repor t i n g t o y o u a l l on London Fashio n W e e k f o r t h e next issue!

Calum

Love,

London Fashion Week vs. New York, Milan and Paris by Laura Smith As Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.” This statement about the essence of fashion is also a fitting reference to ‘fashion month’, a short yet vital period of time which dominates the

fashion industry’s calendar. This season, as we prepare our wardrobes for Autumn/ Winter, designers previewed their collections for Spring/Summer 2011 during four consecutive fashion weeks, during which a whirlwind of fashion tore across the biggest fashion capitals in the world; beginning in New York, then travelling to London

and Milan and finally finishing in Paris, the undisputed home of haute couture. The fashion weeks hold key importance in the world of fashion, as they are the key platforms for both established and upcoming designers to showcase their collections for the forthcoming season. From a trends perspective,

they are also invaluable for magazine editors and buyers. For editors, it means they get to observe the latest trends which they will cover in their magazines, and for buyers, it allows them to assess forthcoming trends and decide who to stock as they arrange their future store lines. While this edition of Noir has been dedicated to London Fashion Week, we wanted to see how the other three bighitters compared, so here’s our rundown of the SS’11 fashion month …

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK Across the pond everything seems bigger, and this was also true during this seasons’ spectacular New York Fashion Week, which ran from 9-16 September. Over 300 shows and presentations took place across the city, while over 80 designers made up the official runway schedule, showing in huge venues with the production values set to high. This year the Lincoln Centre for Performing Arts became the new home of New York Fashion Week, having moved its traditional setting in Bryant Park. The event sponsored by Mercedes-Benz featured a familiar roster of big names including Ralph Lauren,

Oscar De La Renta, Dianne Von Furstenberg, Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera, Donna Karan, Marchesa, Tommy Hilfiger, Anna Sui, Vera Wang, Calvin Klein, Halston, Derek Lam, and DKNY. Tom Ford returned to the scene in trademark style, Victoria Beckham continued to prove her designer credentials and 2008 Project Runway winner Christian Siriano wowed with a collection of floaty and vibrant gowns. More red carpet looks were seen at Marchesa and Oscar De La Renta, whose signature glamour and luxury were portrayed in stunning

gowns bearing both 50’s prom dress and 70’s retro influences. Overall, languid, fluid styles were dominant over the eight days of spring previews, with long loose silhouettes drifting down runways in a soft palette and billowing in chiffon, tulle, silk and sheer fabrics, creating a pretty, romantic look for SS’11. We also saw a very distinct nod to the 70’s in pops of vibrant block colours, including yellow, green, pink and blue, seen in the cartoon colours and disco brights in Giles Deacon and vibrant hues displayed by Marc Jacobs. Betsy Johnson also brought some light-hearted fun to proceedings

with doll-like models that danced (and occasionally skateboarded) down the runway wearing sunglasses and ‘Ride Me’ diamante chokers and showing off plenty of attitude! As for those who attended, there is no denying the pure power of NYFW to pull in the A-list crowd and this year was no different! Anna Wintour, of course, was in attendance, along with Katie Holmes and Julianne Moore seen front row at Calvin Klein, Jim Carey and Kelly Osbourne were at Marchesa, Susan Sarandon was spotted at Donna Karan and Courtney Love checked out Marc Jacobs. Jennifer

Christina Hendricks, Bradley Cooper and Lenny Kravitz attended Tommy Hilfiger and Mary J Blige, Gwen Stefani and

Kanye West rocked the LAMB aftershow party. Halle Berry, Beyonce, Charlize Theron, Liv Taylor, Sarah Jessica Parker, Alexa

Chung and Victoria Beckham were also clocked at various shows and parties. The star-studded event proved it has

come a long way from its beginnings in 1944 and provided an electrifying and exciting start to fashion month.

taking bondage and lycra to startling new levels and Charlie Le Mindu’s nude models and human hair body suits. The late Alexander McQueen was also honoured in a star-studded memorial service held in St

Paul’s cathedral. Attended by Kate Moss, Sarah Jessica Parker, Naomi Campbell and Daphne Guinness, it commemorated the passing of one of the most gifted designers this country has ever produced.

Next stop for the fashion industry insiders was London, running from the 17 – 22 September. Compared to the other three, London is often seen as having the least importance, but for what London may lack in the presence of haute couture designers and famous celebrities, it more than makes up for in edgy, innovative fashion and has previously launched the careers of designers such as Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and Tom Ford. This year’s line up included Vivienne Westwood, Christopher Kane, Giles Deacon, Mathew Williamson, House of Holland, Erdem, Pet e r P i l o t t o , T w e n t y 8 Twelve, Mark Fast, Jasper Conran, Mulberry and the hotly anticipated Burberry Prorsum (with that aviator jacket!). Established back in 1960, this season’s London Fashion Week consisted of over 90 live events across the capital, with the main shows and exhibitions based in Somerset House. As it is sponsored by the British Fashion Council, whose aim is to nurture and support emerging British talent and

raise awareness of established British brands throughout the world, this year saw Britain’s rising stars showcase their collections, most notable of which was Hannah Marshall’s bold collection. Dita Von Tesse and Emma Watson watched the Fashion Fringe competition, which was judged by Donatella Versa. Actresses Sienna Miller, Emilia Fox and Gemma Arterton were also spotted, as were Nicola Roberts and Michelle Williams of Destiny’s Child, Jimmy Choo and Erin O’Connor. On the final day, Burberry Prorsum drew in a crowd which included Anna Wintour, Sarah Jessica Parker, Alexa Chung, Serena Williams and Poppy Delevigne. A definite highlight; Christopher Bailey gave us biker chick chic in ‘s expertly tailored collection which included iridescent trenches and draped, knotted dresses and skirts in delicate shades of lilac, mint green and baby pink toughened up with studded leather jackets. As ever, we were also treated to the edgy and eclectic, with the innovative Pam Hogg

matthew williamson - London

LONDON FASHION WEEK

MILAN FASHION WEEK The fashion pack then travelled to Italy for the Milan Fashion Week, held from the 22 – 28 September in the Milan Fashion Centre. First established in 1958 by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (National Chamber for Italian Fashion), Milan is undoubtedly the home of grown up glamour and this year’s event continued to reinforce the city’s importance in the global fashion industry. The schedule was crammed with Italy’s fashion elite, including Prada, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavali, Giorgio Armani, Emillio Pucci, Gucci, Fendi, Moschino, Alberta Feretti, Missoni,

Bottega Veneta, Etro, Antonio Marras, and Maxmara (phew!). In Milan, the fashion for SS’11 was bold, bright and beautif u l , s e e n i n c o l o u rful and carefree statement couture, as Italian designers painted the catwalks in a bright, refreshing palette and bold prints. Taking inspiration from exotic island getaways they gave us striking bold prints and invigorating range of colours including orange, violet, green and regal blue. From the sheer volume of talented designers showing in Milan it’s near possible to single out the highlights, however stand out shows

included Missioni, for their incredible printed dresses, in which clashing zigzag Peruvian prints and paintbrush strokes were rendered in an explosion of colour, and Prada who drew inspiration from Japan with beautifully cut cotton suits in intense hues of blue, orange and black. Antonio Marras, who previously worked with Kenzo, offered a luxurious, artful and hippie style collection of billowy, relaxed shapes done in overblown prints through a muted palette of spices and khakis. Dolce and Gabbana gave us a mix of virginal white lace, body contouring black corsets and floral prints, all with

the typical D&G sex appeal and even had Kylie modelling a gorgeous yellow dress. Leona Lewis, Taylor Swift, Heidi Klum and Rachel Bilson were front row at Robert Cavalli, who celebrated 40 years in a fantastic frenzy of fringing, snakeskin, leopard-print and sequined tigerstripes. Megan Fox and George Clooney were among the stars present at Giorgio Armani’s show which concluded Milan Fashion Week in ethnic elegance; long, sleek silhouettes in midnight blue satin were enhanced with crystals and models were adorned with black turbans.

graphic lines in eyepopping colours, tinted tiger prints and sultry styling; embellished with oriental detailing it was filled with Eastern promise. Balmain worked punkish looks and zipperstudded jeans, while Yves Saint Laurent gave us a hefty dose of power-dressing in stark, graphic interpretations of the label’s gypsy dresses and bow-tied blouses, military trenches and fluid trousers. By contrast, Hannah MacGibbon of Chloe gave us a soft, romantic and elegant collection, which we assume was inspired by Dega’s ballerinas,

as it included delicate and meticulously pleated dresses in fine cream, coffee and olive coloured jersey and similar ballerina skirts in delicate chiffon teamed with sleek leather vests and body con tunics.

PARIS FASHION WEEK The final fashion week was held from September 28 – October 7 in Paris; the city that is synonymous with style and home of haute couture. As such, Paris Fashion Week boasted a fabulous prêt-a-porter schedule which rivalled Milan’s, and included Louis Vuitton, Kenzo, Hermes, Mui Mui, Yves Saint L a u r e n t , C h l o e , C h anel, Givenchy, Ungaro, Valentino, Ellie Saab, Balenciaga, John Galliano, Balmain, Dries Van Noten, Nina Rici, Stella McCartney and Sarah Burton’s collection for Alexander McQueen.

The fashion was, as always, exquisite and bold. Givenchy offered a powerful, tough-chic collection of sharp tailoring; moulded to the body and brimming with zips, straps and metal hardware. In a palette of black and white, and the addition of chiffon and black lipped models, there was a clear gothic romanticism to the collection, whose audience included Justin Timberlake, Lily Allen, Liv Tyler, Lou Douillion, Alexander Wang and Juilliette Binoche. Louis Vuitton showcased an equally powerful collection of sharp

Chanel, of course, was a star studded affair at the Grand Palais, with Keira Knightley, Rachel Bilson, Vanessa Paradis, Claudia Schiffer, Alexa Chung, Lily Allen and Anna Wintour turning out to watch Karl Lagerfield’s SS’11 collection. The famous Chanel ‘cardigan jacket’

D e f ile L e Sa ng B ong - Pa ris LSD

appeared in black and white tweed and there were ostrich feathers galore, found worked into tweed and silk dresses, which exploded in flowery prints. Cocktail dresses with layers of exquisite beading and more feather detail were followed by delicate dinnergowns in rose pink silk and little black

dresses were layered with lace and embroidery. Sarah Burton’s collection for Alexander McQueen ensured that his legacy lives on in her first solo collection which was imbued with a bohemian, pagan spirit and featured incredible hand crafted detailing. She fused

her own aesthetic with McQueen’s fundamental in a collection which gave us dramatic silhouettes with a romantic mood, in tail-coated trouser suits, raffia ‘corn dolly’ dresses in dazzling prints, spectacular gothic-medieval gowns in silk, billowing chiffon and grey ostrich feathers. With the expectations

on Burton placed high, she not only honoured McQueen legacy by delivering a softer touch to his trademark aesthetic, but also proved to be an exciting and talented designer in her own right. And what better place to do it than the fashion capital of the world?

M ar c Jac obs - New Y or k

alber ta fer r etti - Mi l an

Give nchy b y Ricca rdo Tisci - Pa ris

WE STILL LOVE LONDON . . . and his protĂŠgĂŠ Sarah Burton, as well as well known brands Mulberry and Burberry, London must be doing something right? It may not have as much glitz and glamour as the rest of them, but when it comes to fashion, (as those who witnessed Pam Hogg and Charlie Le Mindu will agree) this city certainly likes to have some fun, and to look good at the same time!

bad gley mischka - New York Mar c J ac obs - N ew Y or k

alber ta ferr etti - Mi l an

markfast - Lo nd on

alber ta ferr etti - Mi l an

LSD

While Paris and Milan may boast the biggest names in fashion, and New York the vast venues and high production values that we Brits can only dream of, or witness in the cinema, London still holds its place in the world of fashion, and quite rightly so. It may not be the star attraction, but what London can boast of is being the home of innovative fashion; the place which fosters emerging talent and showcases it to the world. By refusing to become as mainstream as Paris or Milan, London remains less consumer-driven and, therefore, the perfect playing ground for designers who love to experiment and revel in offthe-wall, edgy fashion. Having produced internationally recognised names such as Giles Deacon, Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood, Christopher Kane, Mathew Williamson, the late Alexander McQueen

INTERVIE W SEC TION

-BRYCE AIME -ANA SEKUL AR AC -TAK A NAK A -KIRST Y WARD -DAVID LONGSHAW -K AT Y BELL -BLYTHE MACKINTOSH -JACKIE DIXON -MASHA MA -SPIJKERS EN SPIJKERS -MASHA MA -PORTIA SHAW -ELLIOT J. FRIEZE - LOUISE ROE

BRYCE AIME: Fashion Desig n e r Br yce Aime ’s C V Bo r n: I n F ra n c e Ed u cat i o n: BA Fa s h i o n D es i g n Wo r k : B r yc e A i m e l a b e l s i n ce 2006 And ever y thing that goes in it...sourcing , fabrics, toile, fitting etc...Trip to factor y and of course I like the challeng es given by problems! The worst part is the day to day management that goes on in the business...and unfortu nately for me and the team it ’s almost 70% of our time! - H ow d i d yo u first start to get i nte re ste d i n fashion and h ow d i d yo u l a unch your own co l l e c t i o n ? Fa s h i o n wa s a natural move fo r m e. I a l ways liked archi te c t u re a n d a rt. I went in d e pt h went I started to atte n d C S M evening classes. At s o m e p o i nt I choose to d o a fa s h i o n design degree b e ca u s e fa s h i o n fulfilled my m i n d . I ca n a nd I could exp re s s mys el f. M y ow n co l l e c t ion was really l a u n c h e d d u r i ng the AW09 s e a s o n a n d I to ok the opport u n i t y b a c k t h en to define a l i n e. Ever s i nce, I have to kee p mys e l f to keep going. - W h at a re yo u r favourite and wo rst p a r t s of your job? Ea sy ! M y favo urite time is w h e n I h ave to do research a n d d eve l o p fo r a collection.

-What has been the most memorable moment of your career so far? Beside the shop opening late 2009 nothi ng has been ‘mem orable’ as such...but the fact to be still up and running is already enjoyable! -What has been the big gest challenge in your career so far? Wow...a lot a lot. But the never endless challenge is to learn and move quickly. That we can get rid of it. -How would you describe your women’s personal style? There is always a statement and a way to put things to gether. When I say statement I mean ‘an idea + an opinion’ that needs to be translating in our modern times. The re sult is my own interpretation. Then the collection is a result

seeing by you o r t h e m b u t ultimately desi g n ed fo r t h e same woman ea c h a n d ever y season: Androg y ny, st ro n g , sexy, crazy and s h e i s n eve r scare to stand a l o n e. The style is never i n vo l u m e , never girl y, but ‘g ra p h i c ’. -Has anyone inf l u e n c e d yo u in your career? In fashion yes, l o a d s , l i ke T h i err y Mugler. H e h a s s h ow n us a world. He went b eyo n d fashion and eve r y t h i n g el s e known before. M a r t i n M a rgela is another o n e . -The October I s s u e o f N o i r is dedicated to L F W. W h at i s it about LFW w h i c h a p p e a l s to people and w h at a re yo u r own experience s a n d v i ews of it? When we think L F W we s h o u l d instantly thi nk ‘u n i q u e’ a n d ‘avant-garde’. R i s k y i s a n o t h er one for inter n at i o n a l b u yers, but definite l y te m pt i n g . Overall, LFW ha s ‘m ay b e ’ t h e best creative m i n d s i n t h e world. One of t h e b est h i g h street ‘fashion t ra n s l at i o n s ’ in the world. To m e, L F W i s a strong platfo r m t h at we look for when fa s h i o n wee ks comes around. Yo u ca n n o t get bored. -What is your b ra n d

ph i l o s o p hy ? Ph i l o s o p hy a n d style goes toget h er. F u r t h e rmore, we tr y to stay fa i t hf ul with our wo m a n .

before because there were no needs for that since we made our own ‘show shoes’ and ‘show hats’.

-Do yo u fol l ow the trends wh e n d e s i g n i ng your col l e c t i o n s ? No . I d o n ’t . . . . co lour trend yes . A n d we k n ow how brain fun c t i o n ! T h e m o re you look at s o m et h i n g a n d the more yo u e n d u p d o i n g the same...

-How did your S/S 11 show and preparations go? Like always....ver y well!

-Te l l u s a b i t a b o ut your S/S 11 co l l e c t i o n . Asi a ra m a wa s a re sult of severa l t r i ps to C h i n a and Japan a w h i l e b a c k . I rea lly like the cul t u re a n d k n owledge be hin d s o m e o f t h e plays I saw in t h e Bei j i n g O p era. I s aw o n l y o n e Kabuki play he re i n L o n d o n a nd felt the sam e. Now to work around it i s h a rd b e ca u s e there is a lot go i n g o n a n d you cannot copy / p a ste o r even be too ‘et h n i ca l . S o a ga i n we have de c i d ed to s h ow what should be B e i j i n g O p e ra and Kabuki in a m u c h m o d e r n way. The res u l t f ro m t h e beginning had to b e f re s h , young , asym met r i ca l , co l o u r f u l, tex tural, sum m er y a n d p l ay ful. -W h at m a ke s t h i s collection dif fe re nt f ro m your previous on e s ? Slig ht l y d i ffe re nt because it is l e s s ‘d a r k ’ a n d l ess ‘harsh’. Plu s a sy m m et r i cal clothes wit h co lo u rs a n d tex ture com bin at i o n w i l l a l ways scream hard e r. . . i n a go o d way I hope. Als o, l es s j a c ket s and much mo re d res s es i n A-line. We did n ’t h ave ‘s h ow pieces’ like

-What is your favourite piece from the collecti on? The leg ging colour combi nation...simple but it works well. The hat with the big feather! And 2 or 3 dresses that I really like.

-What does the fu t u re h o l d for you both profe s s i o n a l l y and personally? Haha...who knows? I rec ko n the best and the wo rst w i l l happen. -What advice woul d yo u g i ve to someone who wa nt s to work in the fashion i n d u st r y ? Keep going and love w h at yo u do, you won’t die t r y i n g .

-Is there any fashion wis dom you can impart to our readers? Be your own image. -What are your favourite things to do in London? There are plenty of exhibi tions in London, I like that! -If you could invite any 5 peo ple to dinner with you, who would you invite and how would the night go? I would invite; -Serge Gainsbourg -Thierr y Mugler -Courtney Love -Cat woman -Mar tin Luther King Wild and full of stories!...I will have a tonne of ques tions...i magi ne the dinner... in my flat of course! -Is there anyone you would love to collaborate with in the future? No. But any interesting proj ect, yes.

Spotl ight on Br y ce Aime: -Guilty Pleasu re: Weekends -Person you adm i re the most: My wife -Favourite ban d : Bloc Party -Favourite place i n the world: the wo r l d -Favourite fil m : Magnolia

ANA SEKULARAC: Fashion Designer Ana Sekularac’s CV Born: Putney, London Educated: MA at Istituto Marangoni Milan and Illustration at London College of Fashion Collections: SS2010, AW2010, SS2011

What made you decide to become a designer ? I didn’t decide, it was somehow meant to be. I entered the fashion world as a model, which was really the last thing on my mind, then I studied business, which again was the last thing on my mind, but both ways prepared me for what I am doing today. It took some time before I decided to do a Master in Fashion Styling at Istituto Marangoni in Milan to find out if fashion design was for me and guess what, I love it. Designing is my way of expressing myself, and I can see today that everything in my life led me to become a designer. Your Style in one word? Timeless Did modelling help hone your fashion eye? Above all it helped me understand how clothes can make a woman feel beautiful, protected and at one with herself.

Tell us about how you first started in fashion and how you came to launch your own label. After finishing my studies I worked for a while at various fashion magazines in Milan as assistant to the fashion editor which was very nice. Then when I came to London I did some work placements at magazines, like we all do, and when they asked me to prepare sandwiches for their lunch break, I decided that NOW would be the right moment to leave and set up my own label. As for my advice, follow your heart and do what feels right for you, be passionate. Pinch me career moment? To be selected by Sara Maino as Vogue Italy Talent 2010 How would you describe the AS woman? The woman who is in all of us; beautiful, strong, confident, passionate and most important at ease with herself, genuine. How did the preparations for your S/S 11 collection and show go? I am very happy with how the preparations went, my Spring

Summer 2011 collection is my most personal yet, it is simply me and how I experience beauty at this very moment of time. As for the preparations in the run up of LFW, I have shot the movie ‘The Phaze’ together with talented film director Radoje Jacevic, presenting my new SS2011 collection which was a beautiful experience all together. How would you describe the collection and where did you get your inspirations for it? It is a very personal collection, the inspiration is the journey and growth of a woman and how every encounter we have creates emotions within us that prepare us for the next phase of our life and allows us to become who we are. What’s your work philosophy? To follow my heart and to create beauty. It is very important for me to create an emotional connection between my designs and the women wearing them. What has been the biggest challenge in your career so far? This year, the biggest challenge was the opening of my first stand alone boutique

whilst shooting the fashion film presenting my new collection and preparing for London Fashion Week all in the same week. Are there any designers or muses who inspire you? My muse is Carine Roitfeld, editor of French Vogue. I love how she looks, how she moves, she is very chic, and represents for me a woman who is strong, intelligent, and a bit mysterious yet when she likes something she shows it. She lives for what she feels passionate about and for what she believes in. You have lived in various cities around the world. Which city has most influenced your own style and your collections? London without a doubt as it is an inspiring place, the city where I started to design without compromising, only following my own inner voice and believing in my talent. The October Issue of Noir is dedicated to LFW. What is it about LFW which appeals to people and what are your own experiences and views of it? It is the place to view independent designers who express their vision and ideas without compromising or the restraints imposed by big business. And all this in London, one of the most wonderful cities of the world. What are your favourite things to do in London? To walk though the city, to visit the hidden gems, read

all the fashion magazines for free at the newsagent in Selfridges and meet my friends. And I love Westminster Abbey to spend a moment of peaceful bliss in a bustling city. If you could invite any 5 people to dinner with you, who would you invite and how would the night go? Teodore Zeldin, Emir Kusturica, Carine Roitfeld, Putin and David Rothshild. The night would not be enough for all the amazing and inspiring discussions. What does the future hold for you both professionally and personally? We will introduce my brand to Paris and Milan and I just opened my own store in Belgrade, which is quiet an adventure. I am also going to continue finding other forms of arts to express the idea and concept behind my work, such as film, dance and theatre. On a personal level, I can’t wait to pack my suitcase and travel around the world, there are so many more places I would like to visit, amongst others South America. What are your fashion do’s and don’ts? Do’s: Dress so you feel beautiful and happy, try something new from time to time and if you get a chance, change during the day in another outfit, as your clothes can change your mood immediately. Dont’s: Don’t dress for somebody else and don’t wear

something you don’t like and don’t wear shoes that are actually too small, especially in summer, one reason is comfort, the other is style. What is the best piece of fashion advice you have ever received? I read this on a stylist’s website yesterday and it made me smile: Please remove all price etiquettes from your shoes and clothes before going out. What advice would you give to someone who wants to work in the fashion industry? Be yourself, listen to your heart and make a stand for what you belief in. Work with people who inspire you and be aware that you are on a journey. Everybody who is somebody in fashion has started small and has been working hard and long to become who they are today.

Spotlight on Ana: -Guilty Pleasure? Rococo Chocolate -Person you admire the most: A person who is truly who they are and lives according to their beliefs and is passionate about their work and their life -If you werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a designer you would beâ&#x20AC;Ś living next to the ocean -Favourite fashion era: Now -Fashion Phobia: Copycat

TATA-NAKA: Fashion Designers Tata-Naka’s CV Born: 31/01/78 Education: Central St. Martin’s Work: Tata-Naka Ltd. Collections: 27 need to follow the trends but is capable of creating her own unique style. -What made you decide to become designers and set up a collection together? We had wanted to be designers since we were 6 years old, spent our childhood drawing pictures of clothes and as we are twins it was a natural progression to do it together. -Your Style in one word? eclectic -Tell us about how you first started in fashion and how you came to launch your own label? When we graduated in 2000 from St Martins our collection was very well received by press and buyers so we went straight into Libertys and Barneys. The label launched itself you might say! -Pinch me career moment? 15 page cover story in Italian Casa Vogue two months post graduation shot in Georgia. -How would you describe the Tata-Naka woman? She is adventurous and romantic, with a great sense of humour. She doesn’t feel the

-How did the preparations for your S/S 11 collection and show go? The highlight for us was discovering Emma Davidge and her team at Chameleon Visual who got our vision and concept completely. She created the” Maharaja tea party in an English garden” and introduced us to the equally amazing jelly mongers Bompas & Parr. What made this season special was working with people like them – brilliant, creative and professional. -How would you describe the collection and where did you get your inspirations for it? Inspired by Colonial India, the period of dramatic changes and the way Indian civilisation adapted to British culture, dressing and education is interpreted by combining structured western tailoring with the soft shapes and draping typical in traditional Indian dress. The approach is effortlessly humorous, with a feel of exaggeration and fun. -How will you celebrate after showcasing your new collection?

With friends who have flown in from all over the world to celebrate the 10 year anniversary! -How do you both work together as a design team? We complement each other well and have different strengths and different aspects of the design process that we enjoy. -What are the best and worst things about working in the fashion industry? Best – creativity Worst - Politics -What has been the biggest challenge in your career so far? Keeping the business running in the UK for 10 years which is a huge challenge! -Are there any designers or individuals who inspire you? Anyone with a strong sense of personal style and identity. -The October Issue of Noir is dedicated to LFW. What is it about LFW which appeals to people and what are your own experiences and views of it? It’s a platform for emerging talent – with all the best colleges and schools here in London. It would be nice if there could be a sense

of follow-through with the designers who are already established. -What are your favourite things to do in London? People watching in cafes in different areas of London – the traffic is so diverse from one area to another. -What does the future hold for you both, professionally and personally? Growing the business into a luxury brand, building new lines, our own boutique. Love, family and a house by the sea in Italy -If you could invite any 5 people to dinner with you, who would you invite and how would the night go? Gabriel Garcia Marquez Pedro Almodovar Fyodor Dostoevsky Martin Margiela Vincent Cassel Non-stop conversation, we love the way these men think and in some case look! -What are your fashion do’s and don’ts? There are none – follow your heart with confidence -What is the best piece of fashion advice you have ever received? “Don’t follow others create your own style” – from our tutor and friend Janet Lance Hughes -What advice would you give to someone who wants to work in the fashion industry? Be tough and enjoy challenges, follow your own path to the end.

Quick Fire with Tata-Naka: -Guilty Pleasure? Food/eating/eating -Person you admire the most? My mum -If you weren’t a designer you would be…Film Director/Writer -Favourite fashion era? 70s Glamour -Fashion Phobia? uniforms -Tata-Naka Design signatures? Hand panted prints and decorative techniques

Kirsty Ward: DESIGNER Kirsty Ward Born: Oxfordshire Education: BA- Manchester Metropolitan University (first class honours), MA – Central St Martins – womenswear (distinction) Work: designer for Alberta Ferretti (1 ½ years)

-How did you first start to get interested in fashion and jewellery and how did you go about starting your career? I first got interested when I started seeing all these beautiful garments and jewellery in film/magazines, and then realizing that I couldn’t afford them so I set about learning the craft so I could design and make beautiful things too. -What are your favourite and worst parts of your job? My favourite part is getting that feeling when you feel so strongly for an idea/design, its like having constant butterflies in your stomach – the worst part is then not being able to sleep because of this feeling -What has been the most memorable moment of your career so far? I loved it when my MA collection was shown on schedual at london fashion week on the catwalk, shown alongside all my friends collections too, it was a great feeling of being involved in something great

-What has been the biggest challenge in your career so far? The biggest challenge has been deciding to quit my job in Italy at Alberta Ferretti, then deciding what the next step should be -How would you describe you own personal style? At the moment I’m fond of wearing menswear that is several sizes too big, teamed with rather large jewellery -Has anyone influenced you in your career? Louise Wilson, my tutor at CSM – she is a legend who has great taste levels -The October Issue of Noir is dedicated to LFW. What is it about LFW which appeals to people and what are your own experiences and views of it? LFW is a great place to find new, exciting talent -What is your brand philosophy? I like initially working with basic shapes then building on that, my clothing has an air of minimalism about it, but the jewellery adds an extra chunky dimension – I also like mixing in odd and unexpected fabric choices

-Do you follow the trends when designing your collections? Never – at least not knowingly! -Tell us a bit about your S/S 11 collection. S/S2011 has been inspired by bad taste, Felix Topolski, Tinsel/lametta and working jewellery techniques into more modern embellishments onto the garments. I have also given the garments a more sculptural element by adding boning and binding to the edges -What is your favourite piece from the collection? I love the waxed cotton layered dress with embellished hem – i just think its a more modern and cooler way to wear a ‘little black embellished dress’ it also has boning inserted into the edges to add a much more interesting shape -Is there any fashion wisdom you can impart to our readers? Trust your instincts – its better to sometimes get it wrong and be interesting, than to be safe and boring all the time!

-What are your favourite things to do in London? Soak up some culture – the theatre, exhibitions, catch up with friends, and go to fortnum and mason with my boyfriend to drool at the cake section!! -If you could invite any 5 people to dinner with you, who would you invite and how would the night go? I would invite Anna Della Russo, Lauren Bacall, Dot Cotton, Maude (the fictional, fabuolus, fabric mouse and editor of the fashion bible ‘Maudezine’) and Ron Mueck – the night would probably be quite awkward as I would probably be in awe of everybody. -Is there anyone you would love to collaborate with in the future? I’m always up for collaboration – for the past 2 seasons I have been collaborating with David Longshaw on the jewellery for his collections. In the future - Margiela, Helmut Lang.... not very realistic but in a dream world maybe -What does the future hold for you both professionally and personally? Who knows? The fashion industry is so unpredictable. Hopefully keep building my brand – and gaining more stockists each season -What advice would you give to someone who wants to work in the fashion industry? Work hard – forget about sleep! And get lots of great experience

Spotlight on Kirsty: -Guilty Pleasure: Murder She Wrote -Person you admire the most: Hans Bellmer -Favourite piece in your S/S 11 collection: Layered waxed cotton dress with embellished hem -Favourite fashion era: changes all the time, but have a fondness for the late 80’s early 90’s -Favourite place in the world: London

Model: Skye Victoria Kelly Barratt Photographer: Mariell Amelie, Hair/make-up: Verity Cumming

DAVID LONGSHAW: Fashion Designer David L o n g s h a w ’s C V

Bo r n: 12/09/1982 (Manchester, England) Ed u cation: RCA (MA), Central Saint Martins College o f A r t and Design (BA hons) M M U ( Art and Design Foundation). Wo r k : Alberta Ferretti (womenswear designer) Italy, M ax Mara (womenswear designer) Italy. -What has been the big gest challenge in your career so far? Keeping Maude in line, she’s a handful.

-How d i d yo u b ecome invol ve d in the fashion ind u st r y ? I was interested in all things artistic from an early age and decided to channel this into fashion at about 14 years old. I wanted to study where all my favourite designers had studied and when I found out that this was St Martins, I took myself off to the open day and decided that I had to get in. -W h at a re yo u r favourite and wo rst p a r t s of yo ur job? Favo u r i te p a r t o f the job is de s i g n i n g t h e co l l ection and the n s ee i n g i t i n magazi nes. Wo rst p a r t o f t h e job is the vast a m o u nt o f paper work and gen e ra l a d m i n. -W h at h a s b e e n the most me m o ra b l e m o m e nt of your care e r s o fa r ? Wi n n i n g the BFC/Talent Lau n c h Pa d A wa rd .

-You not only have a natural talent for fashion but also for illustration. What is it about illustration that attracts you and how do you use it in your career? I have always loved drawing. I turn my illustrations into prints to use in my designs. They inform the shape, co lour and ever y other part of the whole collection. -How would you describe you own personal style? Black. -Has anyone influenced you in your career? I have had good advice from people including Howard Tangye at St Martins, Julie Verhoeven and Tristam Web ber at the RCA as well as many others who have offered en couragement and kind words from my schooldays until the present. -The October Issue of Noir is dedicated to LFW. What is

it about LFW whic h a p p e a l s to people and what a re yo u r own experiences a n d v i ews of it? LFW is a mix ture o f raw excitement because i t ’s f u l l o f young designers at t h e sta r t of their career an d t h e b i g boys such as Bur b e r r y a n d Vivienne Westwood etc . I love being part of i t b e ca u s e of the opportunit y i t o ffers to have your worke d s p o tte d and bought as wel l a s m e eting lots of really i nte re st i n g people. -Do you follow t h e t re n d s when designin g yo u r collections? No -Tell us a bit abou t yo u r S / S 11 collection. Here’s the theme - S/S 2011 Inspirat i o n ‘Shaz! Shaz! over e re, l o o k at this prick with all t h e r u ff l e s and shit on. Na, I b et I ’d l o o k well boss in that!’ It ’s summer and a g ro u p o f hoodies, bored a n d w i t h nothing in particu l a r to d o, have broken into a state l y home.

W i t h go o d i nte ntions of pett y va n d a l i s m a nd theft, they a re d i st ra c te d by the period co st u m es o n displ ay. They sta r t to d re s s up and the fun begins.... - W h at a re your favourite t h i n g s to d o i n London? V i s i t ga l l e r i e s and the the at re . I re a l l y e njoy just walki n g a ro u n d , l ooking at the a rc h i te c t u re a nd people and h av i n g a c h e ek y glass of red w i n e i n o l d p ubs, cool wine b a rs , t h e b a c k of Tescos or a ny w h e re el s e that is ser ving. - I f yo u co u l d invite any 5 p e o p l e to d i n ner with you, w h o wo u l d you invite and h ow wo u l d t h e night go? 1 ) A l a n B en n ett , 2 ) M a u d e ( t h e f ictional fabric m o u s e a n d Ed i tor-in-Chief of M AU D EZ I NE . 3 ) Ka r l L a ge r fel d 4 ) Ron M u e c k 5 ) A nyo n e i nvo lved in creati n g ‘ T h e I n b et weeners.’ - I s t h e re a nyo ne you would l ove to co l l a b orate with in t h e f u t u re ? A l a n B e n n ett - W h at d o e s t h e future hold fo r yo u b o t h professionally a n d p e rs o n a l l y ? P ro fe s s i o n a l l y- I want my la b e l to g row a nd I want to co l l a b o rate w i th interesting p e o p l e. Pers o n a l l y- A s above. - W h at a d v i c e would you give to s o m e o n e who wants to wo r k i n t h e fa s hion industr y? G et a s m u c h experience as possible.

Spotlight on Dav i d : -Guilty Pleasure: go i n g to the cinema an d b u ying pick and mix. -Person you adm i re t h e most: Kaiser Kar l - h e ’s done ever y thing f ro m fashion to pho to g ra phy, books… -Favourite piec e i n your S/S 11 collec t i o n : Printed dress with sleeve manipulat i o n . -Favourite fa s h i o n era: It changes eve r y season. -Favourite place i n t h e world: London.

LOST AND FOUND: An interview with Lost Property of London’s creator and designer Katy Bell. by Marion Sauvebois Walking b y a c a f e o n e d a y , K a t y B e l l n o t i c e s s o m e e m pty coff e e s a c k s a b a n d o n e d o n t h e p a v e m e n t . A l w a y s on the l o o k o u t f o r u n i q u e m a t e r i a l s a n d s l i g h t l y i n t r i g u e d by the d i s c a r d e d s a c k s , o u r S a i n t M a r t i n s g r a d u a t e h u rries into t h e c o f f e e h o u s e n o t c e r t a i n w h a t t o a s k f o r — a capp u c c i n o f i r s t t o e a s e t h e s t a f f i n t o r e l e a s i n g t h e contain e r s i n t o h e r c u s t o d y ? — o r h o w t o b r o a c h t h e s u bject of c o l l e c t i n g t h e b u s i n e s s ’ s ‘ r u b b i s h ’ f o r a y e t u ndefined a r t i s t i c p r o j e c t w i t h o u t t h e o w n e r s t r e a t i n g h e r l i k e a slightly unbalanced young wom a n . A f t e r a f e w m i n u t e s , t h e o r d e a l f i n a l l y o v e r , s h e f i n ds herself back on the street, t h e p r o u d o w n e r o f t h e a f o r e m e n t i o n e d s a c k s . A n i d e a g erminates in her mind: why not t u r n t h e m i n t o b a g s ? T w o y e a r s o n , a n d a f t e r b ei n g d i s covered by Liberty, Katy has so l d h u n d r e d s o f t h e s e o n e o f k i n d h a n d b a g s u n d e r t h e l a bel Lost Property of London. How did you go from picking up coffee sacks outside cafes to collaborating with and selling the finished products at Liberty? Liberty ran a competition about a year ago: Best of British Talent. My step grandmother saw an advertisement for it at the end of a magazine and filled in the application for me. It was only weeks after I had finished developing my first coffee sack bags and when I found out I had been shortlisted I decided to go and see what they thought about the pieces. I basically went for advice. I didn’t know what to expect. What happened then? Did you have to exhibit your pieces at Liberty and wait for buyers to approach you? Not at all. It was like Dragon’s Den. A friendlier version of Dragon’s Den though. My boyfriend—he is now my business partner—and I were shown into a room and we had three buyers in front of us who started asking us a lot of technical questions. They were interested to know our wholesale prices. I had never even thought about prices or the technical side of things. It was scary. I had just come for their feedback. The buyers were very nice though and it went extremely well.

Did they buy your bags straight away? Yes. Within a few minutes they ordered 200 bags! They asked for them to be ready in two weeks time. The three or four ones I had brought with me to show them were literally the only ones we had. How did you manage to make so many in such a short period of time? It took three weeks in the end. I had some help from one of my mum’s friends back in Kent. My mum was a huge help too. The first bags I made were reversible: coffee sack material on one side and recycled floral print fabric on the other. For each, it was like making two bags at once and it took about 40 minutes just to produce one. It’s a fairly long time if you think that we had 200 to make. Where Liberty pleased with the result? They were very pleased and they have been buying my bags for a year now. It is the buyers at Liberty who first suggested that I exhibit at Fashion Week. I was not quite ready to make this decisive move last year. But here I am now, exhibiting at Somerset House. I guess it was the logical next step for Lost Property of London. Did you start making bags straight after graduating from Saint Martins?

I had the idea of using coffee sacks fleetingly at college but just before my graduate show I was ‘discovered’ by Julius Schofield who is the granddad of textile. It was fantastic being noticed by someone with so much experience in the business and so renowned. I started producing printed samples for him and some of the designs were picked up by Calvin Klein for one of his collections. So I did not think again about the sacks for quite some time. I also worked for Nylon, freelanced and taught fashion textile after I graduated. At the time of the Best of British Talent contest I was still tutoring. Your bags have interesting names: Maltby, Roxwell, Belmont etc. What is the inspiration behind these monikers? The very first bag I made was named the Maltby, after the street I had found the sack on. Now I tend to just do that: name the bags after the place where I discovered the sacks. The Belmont messenger bag is my latest design. I have been lucky because all the street names have sounded pretty good so far. I hope it lasts or I’ll have to change my system. Have you ever considered opening your own shop? I don’t know whether I would like to

go down that road. Not yet anyway. We have an international reach and I have been contacted by a shop in Japan recently to sell my bags there. I would absolutely love to go travelling for work and get to see what kind of new sustainable fabrics I can find on my trips abroad. A shop would mean settling down and staying in London.

ELW

Some of your latest bags are made of leather. Are you thinking of moving away from your signature coffee sack bags to explore new materials? I am always on the lookout for new recycled fabrics. I am starting to use leather now and would like to go more down that road and gradually work with high end materials. The challenge will be to go upmarket while still remaining sustainable. But I like a challenge.

BELMONT

MINI MILES

RIVINGTON

ROX

WEL

PAIN T E D O N FA S HI ON: An Int e r v i e w w i t h B l y t h e M a c k i ntosh

Looking at my track record so far, imagining Blythe to b e a m a t u r e Vi c t o r i a n p r i n t collector only to find out that she was a schoolgirl, I soon began to question every little piece of information I had managed to gather about her. I had to do my research properly. I h a d t o b o m b a r d L F A ’ s s e nsation with questions.

B y M a r i o n Sauvebois My first enco u n t e r w i t h B l y t h e M a c k i n t o s h m a k e s for an emba r r a s s i n g a n e c d o t e a n d h a s l e a d m e to question m y p r e c o n c e p t i o n s a n d t h e s o u n d ness of my ju d g e m e n t . S e e i ng a quiet and unas s u m i ng young-looking girl s i t t i ng behind a stall cove r e d with old sepia pic t u r e s at LFA, London Fashi o n and Art, at the ICA, my f i r s t thought, stupidly, was: ‘ S h e must be minding her m o t her’s stall.’ So you can i m a gine my surprise, and s h a me, when I found out t h a t the girl eating Oreos a n d drinking straight out of a C oke bottle was 14-yearo l d Blythe Mackintosh, the

artist b e h i n d t h e p i c t u r e s I had b e e n s t a r i n g o u t f o r the p a s t t e n m i n u t e s ; p i c tures w h i c h h a v e b e e n f e atured i n V o g u e n o l e s s . The s t o r y o f B l y t h e s t a r t s a pproxi m a t e l y t h r e e y e a r s a g o when s h e d e c i d e d t o p a i n t over o l d V i c t o r i a n p o r t r a i t s , ador n i n g t h e u n k n o w n f a ces c a p t u r e d o n f i l m w i t h pink l a c e b o n n e t s a n d b u r lesqu e h a t s a n d b e s t o w i n g them w i t h t h e m o s t l u x u r ious j e w e l l e r y . O r d o e s i t ?

So where did this idea to make Victorian portraits ‘fashionable’ come from? I used to doodle on magazines when I was a child with my sister. We would draw hats or bigger lips on models and people. When I was about 10 or 11, I went to an antiques shop with my mum and I spotted old Victorian photos. I bought a few and painted on them. One of my friends has a s t a l l i n P o r t o be l l o a n d s h e offered to put the finished photos up on it. They all sold in a day. Looking back on it, they were pretty bad. I used cheap children’s paint. But since they sold so well, I thought I would just try and make more and see what happened. A n d t h e n e x t s e r i e s o f p o rtraits was immediately successful? I made a lot for my family and some of my friends as C h r i s t m a s p r e s e n t s . I t r eally started last year, when I turned 13. Several things h a p p e n e d . L u c i n d a C h a mb e r s , w h o i s F a s h i o n D i r e ctor at Vogue, noticed some of the portraits on my

f r ie n d ’ s stall in Portobello a n d b ought two batches of p h o t o s to give as Christmas p r e s e n ts. She showed some o f t h e m to some people at t h e m agazine and Jo Ellison d e c i d ed to feature them on t h e ‘ L a st Word’ page.

to hear t h a t y o u h a v e m a naged t o m a k e s o m e t h i n g people l i k e . I h a v e r e a l l y enjoyed t h e w h o l e e x p e r ience. I l i k e a r t a n d I l o v e being c r e a t i v e .

I h e a r that Lily Allen is now a h u g e fan of yours. Did she s e e y o ur portraits in Vogue? W e l l , my mum is also an art i s t a n d the own ers of the s h o p where she s ells her art f o u n d my pictures interest i n g a n d decided to buy a f e w . L ily Allen knows the o w n e r s and she saw my pic t ur e s t here. Though, actua l l y , t he first time she saw o n e o f my pictures was at t h e o wners’ house, in their b a t h r o om... She bought a f e w f o r herself and commis s i o n e d 12 to put up in her v i n t a g e shop as d ecoration.

Realistic a l l y , w i t h s c h o o l , homew o r k a n d e x a m s , d o you ha v e a l o t o f t i m e t o dedica t e t o y o u r p i c t u r e s ? I tend t o p a i n t a f t e r s c h o o l and at t h e w e e k e n d s . D u ring the h o l i d a y s , m y m u m and I w a k e u p v e r y e a r l y and go t o a n t i q u e s m a rkets. I lo o k f o r p i c t u r e s t h e r e and she l o o k s f o r p i e c e s f o r her ow n w o r k . A c t u a l l y i t has bee n g r e a t h a v i n g m y mum do i n g a r t a n d w e o ften insp i r e e a c h o t h e r . I l i k e spendin g a w h o l e d a y j u s t painting . S o , o f t e n I w i l l j u s t stay in f o r a n e n t i r e d a y a n d comple t e a w h o l e b a t c h o f photog r a p h s .

H o w d oes it feel to be 14 y e a r s old and to already h a v e been featured in V o g u e and have a celebr i ty f o l l owing? I t ’ s b e en shocking! People h a v e been painting on se p i a f o r years. It’ s just nice

Where d o y o u f i n d y o u r i nspiratio n ? D o y o u h a v e an ide a a n d b u y p h o t o s accord i n g l y ? It’s ofte n t h e p h o t o s I f i n d which i n s p i r e m e . T h e o u tcome i s a l w a y s a s u r p r i s e . I am ofte n s h o c k e d a t w h a t

I manage to do! I do look u p h a t s i n b o o k s a n d s o m etimes get inspiration from d i f f e r e n t o b j e c t s a n d f a s hion accessories. I like to transform the hats I see, change their shape, and p a i n t t h e m o n s u l l e n l o o king men on photographs. Exotic hats made of fruit, n e c k l a c e s , V i c t o r i a n b o nnets or even pirate hats, I use a bit of everything. I even added mushrooms at the bottom of some of the pictures. It just depends on what I feel like doing. Is this the path you have chosen for your future? I enjoy art but I am also very interested in science. I w o u l d l o v e t o c o n t i n u e d oi n g a r t o n t h e s i d e n o m a tt e r w h a t j o b I c h o o s e. I d o n’t p l a n to b e co m e a f u l l - t i m e a r ti s t. B u t, w h o k n ows, i t m i g ht c h a n g e.

Inside the life and loves of Jackie Dixon by Leanne Milligan

Jackie Dixon has had one hell of a career so far. Having graduated from Central Saint Martins with a Fine Art degree, Jackie then assisted the fashion director at Vogue, then became Fashion Editor at ELLE, a contributing Fashion Editor at In Style and can nowadays - as well as still being a Freelance Stylist - be found running her hugely popular blog showmeyourwardrobe.com which is also a regular feature in ELLE magazine. Jealous much? I wanted to find out the ins and outs of what it takes to be a successful stylist and photographer so determined to find out I chatted to Jackie about her early fashion experiences, receiving a letter from Donatella Versace herself and of course my favourite blog: showmeyourwardrobe.com.

Hi Jackie! Tell us what you remember about your childhood? Going to a lot of carboot sales… How did you become involved in the fashion industry? I wormed my way in. Straight out of University you began working at British Vogue. How did you find your time there? It was a love hate relationship; some days I loved it and some days I hated it. The experience was invaluable and to quote X Factor I’m 100% happy that I did it. How did you make the move to becoming a stylist and what has the job enabled you to do? I didn’t really “make a move” I sort of dived straight in. Sometimes it’s better that way.

What has been the biggest challenge in your career so far? I’m sure the biggest challenge is still to come. What made you decide to set up your own blog? I wanted to do more than one thing, I’m like a child with ADD, I can’t sit still. Always need to do more. Styling is creative but I just needed more. Widen my horizons as it were. When did you realise Show Me Your Wardrobe had become such a success? Now, your question sort of implied it…. Do you enjoy been invited into people’s wardrobes and being able to showcase their style? Love it; I like to see how people live, what they choose to surround themselves with and see how they put outfits together.

What are your favourite and worst parts of your job? Getting good pictures, meeting interesting people and travelling to cool places is the best bit, I’m sure you can image what the worst parts are…

Is photography another passion of yours? It’s my main passion.

What has been the most memorable moment of your career so far? Getting a hand-written letter from Donatella Versace telling me how much she loved the way I styled J Lo (in Versace) for the cover of British ELLE.

Has anyone influenced you in your career? My husband.

How would you describe you own personal style? Not there yet.

The October Issue of Noir is dedicated to LFW. What is it about LFW which appeals to people and what are your own experiences and views of it? I love clothes and fashion but I don’t

always love what comes along with fashion weeks… What are your favourite things to do in London? Shoplift (* I’m joking) If you could invite any 5 people to dinner with you, who would you invite and how would the night go? My husband, Emma White Turle (make-up artist), her daughter Evie and their dog Stinky. We would eat lots of home-made pie, drink lots of red wine and be merry…Evie and I would play Mushy Monster…this may have already happened last night… does that count? Is there anyone you would love to collaborate with in the future? French Vogue What does the future hold for you both professionally and personally? Professionally I want to get better and better as a photographer and shoot more. Lots more. Personally I could do with getting better too. What advice would you give to someone who wants to work in the fashion industry? Don’t. Spotlight on Jackie: -Guilty Pleasure: Hugh Laurie -Person you admire the most: My mum -Favourite Designer: I like Isabel Marant at the moment -Favourite fashion era: the present -Favourite place in the world: my mum’s sitting room with a homecooked meal and a glass of red wine.

MASHA MA: Fashion Designer

by Leanne Milligan

Mash a M a ’ s C V Born: B e i j i n g C h i n a Educa t i o n : C S M M A W o m a n ’ s W e a r Work: A l e x a n d e r M c Q u e e n V e r o n i q u e Branh i n o

How did you first start to get interested in fashion and how did you launch your own collection? I studied Fine Art before and found that fashion would be the best way to express myself better, it was a natural decision. I was preparing myself after my MA and worked on different brands to gain more experiences in the industry and got an offer from VFS this season so I started. What are your favourite and worst parts of your job? It is always the creative process that keeps me going. It is not about where you can get to but how to get there is always my favourite part. The worst part is there is never enough time. What has been the most memorable moment of your career so far? Showing at LFW with my CSM MA graduate collection was one of those moments I will always remember. What has been the biggest challenge in your career so far? I will say it must be time management. There is never enough time. You can never “finish” the design, you just make it better and better, until you reach the time limit. How would you describe you own personal style? Casual cool. Has anyone influenced you in your career? My MA professor Louise Wilson has always been a great inspiration, and Lee [Alexander McQueen] too, I have learnt so much from them that will benefit the rest of my life.

The October Issue of Noir is dedicated to LFW. What is it about LFW which appeals to people and what are your own experiences and views of it? London is unique, people here have the obsession of new designers that nowhere else has in the rest of the world. It allows young talents to show and express themselves with extreme freedom and that’s what I respect and enjoy about it. For any up-coming designers there is nowhere better to be than LFW. What is your brand philosophy? The Masha Ma woman likes to dress in intelligent designs that are both elegant and sensual. She is chic and modern and, without shouting for attention, looks for that extra bit of ‘j’ne sais quoi’. Do you follow the trends when designing your collections? No but I am hugely aware of it. Tell us a bit about your S/S 11 collection. The debut show looks at strong elements such as silver and steel juxtaposed with the intricate elegance found in the use of the finest cotton, draping and finish. Inspired by rugged buildings in the meatpacking district in New York City, the collection is industrial chic with a touch of subtle futurism. The chosen materials reflect the influence, silver foil cotton combined with white delicate silk crepe. An industrial touch on something delicate yet modern. How did your S/S 11 show and preparations go? I had such a short time for preparation since I heard from VFS in July. It all turned out really well at the end, the show is already covered digitally by Vogue UK, Dazed and Interview Magazine, etc. What is your favourite piece from the collection? The ice blue satin skirt with pockets on the front which was named by the stylist “the cup cake skirt”.

Is there any fashion wisdom you can impart to our readers? Wear white this season, is the colour that never goes out of style. What are your favourite things to do in London? Columbia Flower Market would be on top of my list and brunch in Victoria Park. If you could invite any 5 people to dinner with you, who would you invite and how would the night go? Christopher Balenciaga, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Kurt Cobain, Oscar Wilde and Michel Foucault. I don’t know how would the night go and I am dying to find out! I think Foucault and Wilde would hate each other but they both like Cobain. Is there anyone you would love to collaborate with in the future? I am currently working on a fashion and graphic cross over project with Neville Brody. I’d love to work with anyone like him in the future, boundary pushing, burningly intelligent and incredibly fun to be with. What does the future hold for you both professionally and personally? We just came back from Paris and had great feedback, now is all about next season and we are looking forward to it. What advice would you give to someone who wants to work in the fashion industry? Work hard, play harder! Spotlight on Masha Ma: -Guilty Pleasure: I am not gonna tell you -Person you admire the most: My grandmother -Favourite fashion era: 70’s and 50’s -Favourite place in the world: In my bed -Favourite film: Polly Maggoo

PORTIA SHAW: Fashion PR By Laura Smith Portia Shaw was recently made Head of Fashion at Essence Communication and previously worked as an Account Manager at Blow PR, where she worked with designers such as Bryce Aime and Bernard Chandran. For Portia, working in Fashion isn’t anything like Ugly Betty makes out, and takes a strong, passionate work ethic, a wicked sense of humour and some killer heels! She talks to Noir about her experiences in Fashion PR.

What initially attracted you to work in Fashion PR? I have always understood the power of PR before I even started working in the industry. You only need your brand to be in a magazine as the hottest buy and everyone starts burning their credit cards, in a weird way it’s like herding sheep! I loved the idea of making a brand beyond desirable and it seemed natural to fall into fashion as that’s what gets me going. I couldn’t PR something like a sanitary towel, as it would drive me up the wall. I also love the way fashion can change people; when I have my heels on and a fabulous outfit I feel like Megan Fox on fire … realistically I probably look like Cher without the make-up! How did you get started and progress to your current role? I originally started with an internship at CUBE PR, then moved onto Goodley PR, where I landed my first paid position assisting one of the Directors. I was really lucky there and had the opportunity to work on accounts such as Loewe, who are owned by LVMH. I then moved to Blow where I started as an Account Manager. No one day was ever the same there and they had amazing brands, such as Basso & Brooke and Manish. Recently, I came to a crossroads where I thought I either start my own agency or move as Head of Fashion to another, and went with the latter. I still want my own agency but there’s that old saying of don’t run before you walk . . .

What are a Fashion PR’s key responsibilities? Ultimately your job is to make sure your clients get into the right magazines and onto the back of the right celebrities, and to also come up with some constructive and creative ideas. Crucially, you have to know your clients market, there’s no point pitching a couture dress to a magazine that sells for 30p a week. Above all, no matter what’s going on behind the scenes, you have to remain calm and above all chic, as no one likes a sweaty PR with split ends and cheap shoes! If you’re lucky enough to have designers at London Fashion Week then you will be choosing the venue, sorting invites and seating plans, perhaps throw in a few goody bags as well and getting some celebrities down. You also have a showroom to maintain and if it doesn’t look shit hot then you’re already failing. I still get on my knees and scrub the floors as my showroom is a representation of me, any good PR knows that no job is too big or small. What are the highs and lows of the job? The highs of the job would have to be when you have worked for months on a project like a shop launch or a designer collaboration and it’s a roaring success. I don’t believe in having lows, if you’re getting that in your job you’re probably in the wrong industry or need to have thicker skin.

What advice would you give to people trying to get into fashion PR today? Whether your landing an internship or a paid position never get too comfortable as there are probably a hundred other people who want your job and could be just as good at it. Very rarely do you find someone who is irreplaceable . . . harsh but true. Also you will always come across at least one person in your career who you might not necessarily see eye to eye with, don’t hate them, just make sure you never become them. Who have you most enjoyed working with? My favourite shop brand would be Aqua in Carnaby Street. I did their shop launch in London and fell in love with their designs, the people behind Aqua are FABULOUS and everyone should have at least one item by them in their wardrobe! They were always open to ideas and not afraid of doing things differently. My favourite designer I have ever worked with has to be Bernard Chandran. He was very spiritual and although I am not a great believer in most things, aside from the power of a designer handbag, he always managed to have a very calming affect and made me see things through other people’s eyes.

What has been your career highlight to date? I’ve honestly had so many moments where I have been deliriously happy that I couldn’t say … I guess when Lady Gaga started wearing one of my designers [Chandran] before she became as big as she is, and still remains loyal to him now and wears pieces by him. Is life as a Fashion PR as glamorous as some people outside the industry might think? Fashion is not glamorous! That’s something they need to tell people as soon as they walk through the door … believe me it’s no Ugly Betty, (although I do wish I looked like Wilhelmina Slater!) You also have to deal with some massive egos. One thing I noticed is that the people who don’t go to any extreme efforts in their look and stand quietly at the back of shows are normally the important industry influencers, whilst the people who dress all out and complain their tickets aren’t front row are usually nobodies! How would you describe your personal style? I had to ask my assistant this one and I quote “You don’t have a style as everyday is different with you – although you love black and your heels!” Any style tips for A/W10? DO NOT buy sheepskin as everybody else is! DO get some good maxi dresses as they will be a saviour for fat days or when you’re in a hurry, I just bought four from Topshop in different colours. Oh and some workman boots, I know that was last winter but I just bought some and they’re my new love! What are you lusting after for S/S11? I’m lusting for one of those patent holdalls from PPQ complete with miniature dog please. As for clothes, it’s to cold to think about … I barely got to wear last summers clothes! If you could meet any one from the fashion world who would it be? Victoria Beckham – I loved her from day one and think she is beyond fabulous, from her perfectly groomed hair to the heels of her Tributes! Say the house of on fire and you can grab only one thing from your wardrobe ... what would it be? It would have to be an electric blue lace dress which was my great grandmother’s. It’s not particularly practical and I have never worn it out but it’s sentimental and fits beautifully. I know you said one, but I’m taking the fur my mum gave me, as she’d kill me otherwise!

Por tia tak es us thro ugh her fi London Fa rst day of shion Wee k… 6am: I get up and decide what to wear, settling for some high waisted grey masculine tailored trousers with a body con top and some killer heels … I know my feet will be on fire by lunchtime but I don’t care! I then check my emails and settle on a coffee and a quick dose of Daybreak for breakfast. 9:30am: I head over to Somerset House to meet the rest of the Essence Team and get our access cards. As usual there’s a big queue but I love people watching so I keep quiet and observe everyone’s outfits. 10:30am: I make my way to Maria Grachavogel and queue up with the masses. At LFW I always bump into someone I know, and as soon as I sit down I see an old friend and get all the gossip about what’s happening at their magazine . . . and no, I can’t say who or what! 11:20am: I decide to scout around The Exhibition and come across some fabulous designers with whom I start exchanging details. I hate telling designers I’m a PR as I instantly know they’re thinking, “Here we go!” so I try and find a common ground before revealing what I do. Then, while watching a film showcasing Orla Kiely’s SS11, I realise I’m sitting next to a really important editor from Vanity Fair. I’ve already clocked the Louboutins she’s rocking and start getting major shoe envy! 2pm: Lunch with my team at Somerset House on the terrace, which is beautiful as the sun is out. I find out which designers everyone liked, so that when we approach them we’re not talking to brands that we don’t feel passionate about – there’s nothing worse than PR-ing a brand you don’t feel strongly about, so I make sure we all agree before targeting, otherwise you’re just setting yourself up to fail. 3:30pm: I then head to another show; Bora Aksu at OnOff. The room is heaving with some great press and in the corner of my eye I spy The Telegraph’s Fashion Editor Hilary Alexander scribbling away on her notepad before she makes a fast exit to her next show. I don’t envy journalists who have to attend all shows, especially if they are doing NYC, Paris and Milan – it must be exhausting! 5pm: I meet the rest of the team back at the office and email all of the designers we have seen. We then go through the invites we have for parties and decide who is going where. I want at least one of the girls to go to each party, so we work out who lives closest to each venue. 8pm: I head over to Hospital in Covent Garden for dinner with my GBF (gay best friend) and talk about anything but clothes, as too much becomes overload and LFW is five days of pure fashion! After three bottles of wine and a cheeky cigarette we decide to get a cab home. 11pm: Crash into bed after a heavy shower to hide the smell of booze and fags from the better half, who is already asleep.

always inspired me, I kinda love that English gentleman look so that’s what I always try to achieve. ‘Do you think the modelling has helped you in designing?’ “I think so. I think it’s really important –it doesn’t really matter which sector of fashion you work in – it’s good to have a good understanding of all of it. I find that some designers can sometimes be a bit rude. We had a casting with Vauxhall Fashion Scout last Monday and I noticed with some of the new younger designers, that they were not really polite and I think it’s really important to understand what those guys [the models] are going through. It’s really important to have that understanding.”

Elliot J. Frieze Fashion Designer by Leanne Milligan There are not many British designers who stay true to their British heritage but Elliott is one of them. Born in Wales, Elliott was first spotted by a Berlin-based modelling agency aged 19 while studying for a degree in Economics, History and Politics. He began doing campaigns for Paul Smith and moved into Fashion Presenting. He then started working for Japanese

designer Mischiko Koshino for 3 years before returning to Wales to complete a Postgraduate degree in Fashion Design & business. He then co-founded Qasimi where he stayed for 3 seasons before launching his first solo label at London Fashion Week in February this year. I popped backstage before his S/S 11 show to see the man himself. Thinking I

would be surrounded by chaos as I have normally been backstage, I was astounded at the calm and cheeriness backstage. Think this may be down to Elliot’s calm and gentle demeanour! So what is Elliot’s personal style like? “I’ve always gone for a kind of slim, tailored silhouette. Savile Row’s

Elliot’s first solo collection in February went down a storm, with Amber le Bon and Jacquetta Wheeler both storming down his catwalk and his signature British classics becoming a hit with the critics. For his S/S 11 collection, Elliot is staying with his take on British classics and equestrian theme but with a modern twist. “Initially I had Anna Popplewell [from Chronicles of Narnia] in mind and she’s closing the show. I’ve known Anna for about 7/8 years. I met her at the Memoirs of a Geisha premiere years ago so I always wanted Anna to do a show for me so that was at the top of my mind, and then I asked her if she’d do my show and she said yes, so the entire collection was initially designed with her in mind. I have young nieces and their children’s books are always lying around, like Roald Dahl –especially with Quentin

Blake’s illustrations so that kind of inspired the digital print and the embroidery as well, especially with reference to the book Boy: Tales of a Childhood where I got inspiration for the collection.” A lot of the S/S 11 shows have played it safe with neutrals and structured tailoring, but not Elliot; “My last season I’d say was quite safe with greys and navys. I always find that kind of reflected on my state of mind at the time and suppose with A/W I just wanted to play it safe. I just feel that I’ve had my batteries recharged this season”. It doesn’t seem that Elliot’s talent for creativity in fashion extends to the kitchen. I am intrigued to know who his dream dinner party guests would be, “I don’t think I’d cook myself, haha. Think it would be Marilyn Monroe, Robert Redford and James Dean.” I tell him that it would be one hell of a party though I don’t think much eating would be done! As the Elliot J Frieze brand is still in its youth I am excited to know what the future holds for our rising star, “I’m hoping to collaborate with a few other companies for next season with underwear so that’s in the pipeline at the moment. Just build the brand, as quickly as I can really but sensibly. I find that fashion is an industry filled with corpses of young designers who try to do too much and not focus” His advice for those wanting to enter the fashion industry? “Choose another job! Fashion…it’s not easy at all. I mean my degree is in History, Economics and

Politics. The reason I didn’t go straight into fashion was that there is a stigma attached to it. It’s a very, very hard industry and if you’re unsure about it or not 100%, then don’t do it.” So interview over, it’s time for Elliot to go prepare for only his second ever solo show. I take my place at the catwalk with anticipation and I am not disappointed. I have only said this about 2 young designers so far and Elliot is up there with them – Elliot J. Frieze is one to watch!

Louise Roe: TV PRESENTER By Leanne Milligan

Louise Roe is one girl who is making waves across the pond, for all the right reasons. Louise started out as an intern at Elle Magazine which then quickly morphed into TV Styling work and columns for fashion magazines such as Elle, Vogue, and Glamour. Some people may have horror stories from watching The Devil Wears Prada too many times but Louise has nothing but great memories from her days as an intern. “It was so electric and fun. I literally had a week off after university before I started at Elle. I was working for free and I worked my butt off but I was prepared for that” she tells us. “Plus I started at the same time as the Editor Lorraine Candy who is really sweet and was really nice to me”. It wasn’t long however before Louise was drawn into TV which she tells us was by accident. “I was working at Condenast’s Bride’s magazine and the Editor was invited to appear on the news but didn’t want to do it so I ended up doing it and had a really great time. Then I was asked to come style for What Not to Wear and everything came one after the other.” Success in the UK then saw Louise head Stateside to tread the waters there and it wasn’t long until she found herself on hit MTV show The City pitted against Olivia Palermo for the job of face of Elle.com. She joined the show during fashion week and seems to have had a great time, contrary to the tabloids and blogs who tried to pit both girls against each other. “It was awesome fun, everyone in front and behind the cameras was brilliant, and it was a great experience”. As devout followers of The City will know, Louise swapped the craziness of New York City for the sun and glamour of LA where she is currently presenting hit CW show Plain Jane which is a new show which sees ordinary women (the plain Jane’s) going through a confidence and fashion makeover. This isn’t like your average makeover show however

“It is changing how they feel inside as well as outside. A young girl – around 24 or 25 – who has had a secret crush on their best friend or boss is set up on a blind date with them. The girl knows about the date, but the guy doesn’t know who he will be meeting. She faces her fears, we help with her confidence, and obviously there is some shopping to be done too!” It is this romantic element which sets it apart from other shows and adds a really unique and quirky touch to the programme. We all want to see our Plain Jane get her Prince Charming. It seems that Louise has had a fantastic time filming the show and has received letters from the girls thanking her and describes the show as being “very funny, hard but very satisfying”. It is London Fashion Week however that holds many memories for Louise, and is the fashion week she loves to come back to season after season. “Its home and it’s really exciting to come back and see how the designers are doing. Since Simon Ward joined the BFC last year he has brought the fun and buzz back which has saw the likes of Burberry and Matthew Williamson returning to show at London and it’s tough to get designers to come back and show. Plus the after parties are always fun where you can let your hair down whereas in Milan it’s not really like that. Plus Fashion Editors go to see and support new designers in London as well.”

d aroun e are them on s e h T Try kes. 2) Spi is season. st bought h t ju again or shoes. I spikes so s h t jacke f boots wit will keep t o r a pai ing like tha season. h t h e b t is som ing fa k o o l you

3) Giant Clu tch bags. I always say you sh ould have these. They will d o you for w ork or dinners and e verywhere you want really.

So what does the future hold for Louise Roe? Well we will hopefully be watching her hit show Plain Jane over here in the UK soon. She promises us “more fun, more fashion” and will also be fronting Access Hollywood doing a fashion girl makeovers type segment. I really can say it was an absolute pleasure chatting to Louise who really is as lovely as she appears on screen and Noir is rooting for our girl!

Something I have been debating upon this week is what to wear to LFW. So I seek Ms Roe’s advice! Should I prepare beforehand? “You have to. I try to wear one item of the designer’s collection and obviously look at the weather, though when it was snowing at New York Fashion Week I was still wearing stilettos!” So note to oneself, make sacrifices for fashion everyone! What about this A/W, what should us fashionistas be wearing? Here are Louise Top 3 A/W Style Tips:

1) It’s all a bout the h ats. I just bought o ne from Topshop. Though n ot a b either a tril eanie hat, try by or a fed ora.

Spotlight on Louise

Style Icon: Lauren Hutton, she has that understated look. Guilty Pleasure: Ohhh a toss up between Ben & Jerry’s Phish Food and Gossip Girl. Actually watching Gossip Girl eating Ben & Jerry’s! Favourite Designers: Giles Deacons, Holly Fulton, William Tempest and Marchesa. Favourite High Street: Jaeger Tip for those wanting to work in fashion: Persevere and smile. As an intern, even doing days off photocopying and making tea, keep smiling and you’ll get there in the end. Just be happy and enjoy it!

LONDON FASHION WEEK WOMENSWEAR SHOWS: Spring/Summer 2011

-J E N A . T HEO - F E L D E R FELDER -A N A S E KUL AR AC - C A RO L INE CHARLES -PPQ - H A N N A H MARSHALL - PAU L COSTELLOE - C R A I G L AWRENCE - K I N G S TON UNIVERSIT Y MA GR ADUATES - L A KO B UKIA - P RO P H E TIK - S P I J K E RS EN SPIJKERS - S H E N Z HEN - O S MA N - S I M O N EKREILUS - B RYC E AIME -A L A M ODE - BA S S O & BROOKE - B E T T Y JACKSON

-ELLIOT T J. FRIEZE -MAT THE W WILLIAMSO N -MASHA MA -MICHAEL VAN DER HA M -FASHION MODE -MULBERRY SALON -PAM HOGG -DESIGNERS REMIX -J MASKREY -ROMEO PIRES - CHARLIE LE MINDU -ADA Z ANDITION -JASPER GARVIDA -KRYSTOF STROZ YNA -ANTIPODIUM -ROMINA K AR AMANEA -HEMYC A - CHRISTIAN BL ANKEN

JENA. THEO CATWALK SHOW FRIDAY 17 SEPTEMBER 2010, 230PM BFC SHOW SPACE, SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Lauren Hawes THEMES: 19th Century Victorian British Colonialism and Indian influences of 21st Century Britain COLOURS: A neutral palette with pastel colours such as pinks and purples, being the predominant colours FABRICS: Denim, silk, chiffon My first London Fashion week started in style with design duo Jenny Holmes and Demitris Theocharidis at the BFC Showspace in Somerset House. Jena.Theo, the winner of Fashion Fringe at Covent Garden 2009 as chosen by Donatella Versace; are two young Greek designers who tend to blend their British and Greek Heritage with modern ideas and attitudes. It quickly became clear that this collection was inspired by India as many of the pieces were adorned with handcrafted Indian trim, complimented with raw painted gold leaf stilettos. The pair achieved their beautiful spring summer 2011 collection by mixing together denim, silk and chiffon in neutral and pastel shades which echoed the exuberance of the traditional Indian Holi festival. Volume is also a concept continually explored by Jena.Theo, this time through structuring (in various pieces including silk turbans) and layering ( which can be seen in the draping of their two piece items that can be worn as dresses, or deconstructed to individual garments). The theme of glamour continues into the hair and make-up of the models. This was through warm gold tones on the eyes teamed with bronzed dewy skin and gold leaf embellished nails. Being a girl that grew up acting out Aladdin scenes with the boy next door, my personal favourite was a purple halter neck dress with gold trim and a lot of volume from the waist down. Very Arabian nights! HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -look out for draping, and gold sequin detailing on dresses -Indian inspired head pieces (however, I give you permission to sidestep the turbans!) -Gold platform heels -Harem pants or skinny jeans teamed with tops with t-bar backs -Think Aladdin and your there!

FELDER FELDER CATWALK SHOW FRIDAY 17 SEPTEMBER 2010, 4.45PM BFC CATWALK SPACE REVIEWED BY: Leanne Milligan THEMES: Rebellious downtown girl, Easy Rider COLOURS: Mixture of black with exploding shades of nature, rich fuchsias, vivid ocean and nightsky blues FABRICS: Signature leathers but with romantic chiffons, organza’s and feathers. The spring/summer 2011 collection, inspired by an imaginary rebellious muse fascinated with the spirit of the ‘60s road movie Easy Rider and The Doors legend Jim Morrison, featured lots of whimsical skirts and dresses in vividly bright hues, as well as items with their signature edge – think skinny black trousers, see-through tops and ruched leather leggings. The models stomped down the catwalk to a soundtrack of I Blame Coco’s version of Steppenwolf’s Born To Be Wild (famous for its use in Easy Rider), which had me dancing in my seat! The twins still had their classic black palette but this collection saw them going in a different direction with their dazzling sequinned mini dresses, romantic chiffon blouses, embellished tight-fitting and floaty sequin dresses…the list goes on. I absolutely loved their mixtures of fabrics, colours and the way they constructed the garments. Hard became soft and soft became hard with the floatiest chiffons and structured organza’s given a printed hologramatic bone motif and leather being worked into a 3D exoskeleton giving it an architectural, graphic pop. Feather detailing will be a key S/S 11 trend with Felder Felder using them as shoulder detailing, on skirts, and on jackets. The colour was a welcome boost in a schedule of shows where natural colours were the main order of the day so their petrol colours were top of my lust list. That’s not to say there wasn’t the well-known black, leather Felder Felder staples. Along with see-through mesh tops, bra tops, leather jackets, leather trousers, there was a standout black piece with a bra top and organza skirt which had me oohhing and ahhing. The Felder woman is a rebellious soul. She is born to be wild! HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Black mixed with exploding shapes (think 70s disco) -Feather detailing -70s inspired pieces and colours -Sparkles -Collarless jackets -Full-blown surfer frizzy hair and you’re good to go!

ANA SEKULARAC FILM SCREENING FRIDAY 17 SEPTEMBER 2010 ONE ALDWYCH HOTEL REVIEWED BY: Laura Grant Evans THEMES: emotions, the journey of a woman COLOURS: black and white FABRICS: sharp pleated cotton, hand-twisted chiffon On the first day of LFW in a relatively hidden basement film screening room of the grand, ‘One Aldwych’ hotel, Ana Sekulurac presented her beautiful collection in unique style. On entering the room, we were served popcorn and champagne and then left to watch a short film produced by Ana, The Street,, which showcased Ana’s pieces. The monochrome colour scheme could have been one dimensional, but a closer look at the collection shows the contrast of architectural silhouettes and the soft wavy lines of the chiffon, which brings together a new design. The exceptional hand-twisted chiffon makes each piece individual with the boned overskirts conjuring up images of modern femininity; strength and grace. The film complemented the collection perfectly, showing one woman’s journey through a street as she meets other women, consequently entwining their lives and ultimately representing the journey and growth of one woman. Ana stated that the location of the film was not important as it was reflecting the emotions of the women rather than her placement in the world. A lovely start to London Fashion Week. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Look for contrast between soft and structured. -Mix chiffons with harder materials such as pleated cotton -Build up thin layers of the same colour but different fabrics -Concentrate on small detailing

CAROLINE CHARLES CATWALK SHOW FRIDAY 17TH SEPTEMBER, 12.30PM BFC SHOWSPACE, SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Marion Sauvebois THEME: Breakfast at Tiffany’s/1950s glamour COLOURS: Red, yellow, black and light pink FABRICS: Silk, chiffon, crepe Attending Caroline Charles’ show on the very first day of London Fashion Week was an enchanting experience and a delightful opening to one of the most anticipated fashion events of the year. With 1950s French music playing in the background and an array of retro-chic cocktail dresses, the audience was immediately transported back into time. High Society, Rear Window , Sabrina, these whispered titles spread through the crowd and I found myself trying to identify which outfit belonged in which Hitchcock movie as models elegantly clad in elbow length silk gloves and covered in diamond accessories paraded down the catwalk. The line certainly had an old black and white/post-war Hollywood movie feel to it. In fact, I do not think that anyone in the audience would have been surprised to see Grace Kelly make an appearance at the end of the show thanking us for coming. One of Charles’ black cocktail dresses had been taken straight out of Breakfast at Tiffany’s and the addition of a long pearl necklace which adorned the model’s neck completed this sophisticated Audrey Hepburn look to perfection. As for her tailored ivory skirt suit complimented with a white fedora hat—probably my favourite outfit in the collection—it could have been borrowed from Ingrid Bergman’s wardrobe in Casablanca. Alongside the display of black sequined jackets, houndstooth twinsets and more formal attire, were summery high-waist floral dresses, cheerful yellow volume skirts and leopard print shift shirts. Accessories were the highlight of the show and reflected this summery mood. The 1950s cat-eye sunglasses, wide-brimmed sun hats and colourful embroidered flower bonnets sported by the models added a playful touch to Caroline Charles’ refined collection giving it the bubbly edge which put a smile on everyone’s faces as they exited the tent. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Wear long pearls necklaces and sparkling jewels -Choose vintage sunglasses -Opt for floral prints and high-waist dresses

PPQ CATWALK SHOW FRIDAY 17 SEPTEMBER 2010, 8PM BFC SHOW SPACE REVIEWED BY: Laura Smith THEMES: French Riviera meets Marrakech souk with a funky 80’s vibe COLOURS: Ruby red, gold, royal blue, pink, amber, black and white FABRICS: Silk, satin, taffeta and textured cottons On day one of LFW it’s PPQ who’s putting on the final show, so naturally the place is packed to the gunnels with celebs on the front row, including Paloma Faith, Amber Rose, Jamelia, VV Brown and Michelle Williams of Destiny’s Child commanding the best views of the label’s much-hyped S/S 11 collection, ‘Hassan’. To a pulsing Moroccan-style electro beat, models strut down the catwalk enveloped in bold, vibrant silk and satin separates. Cinched silhouettes are created with shirts tucked into loose, high-waisted and tapered trousers; figure-hugging dresses belted at the waist; corset tops paired with pencil skirts and structured cocktail dresses adorned with figure loving peplums. Now there’s something that’s been severely lacking so far at LFW but thankfully PPQ finally delivers on what summer fashion, for most of us, should be all about … COLOUR! Initially, the jewel bright palette is royal in tone with magnificent ruby reds, royal blues, pinks, amber and gold. There’s also a slight 80’s theme to the collection, most evident in the fun, abstract prints teaming with a frenzy of eye-popping colours including blue, pink, orange and yellow with accents of blank and white. It’s featured in many outfits including day dresses, skirts, jumpsuits, skin-tight tops and dresses, as well as the staple PPQ frame bag. Continuing the theme of Moroccan bazaar, models wear a fez atop blown out hair and walk in black and gold scalloped shoes, produced in collaboration with Office. As our journey through exotic opulence continues we are whisked to the French Riviera, where delicate pale blue and crisp white dominates. Here, a gorgeous Alice in Wonderland-style dress stood out, as did the final full-length pyjama style gown that seemed more wee willie winkie than catwalk chic, and a little at odds with the rest of the collection (unless PPQ are branching into Edwardian nightwear!) HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Go wild for 80’s style abstract prints -Combine rich and vibrant colours -Celebrate your curves with a belted waist, corset of peplum -Mix bold primary colours with white or black -Top off with a fez and you’re sorted!

Nevertheless, Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker offered up a fun, exuberant, vibrant and electric collection that brightened up a chilly September evening and contained some truly gorgeous dresses that I look forward to wearing come summer, including a gorgeous one-shouldered satin number in amber and the spectacular pink party dress with blue belt. Who knows, maybe I’ll even throw on a fez as well!

HANNAH MARSHALL CATWALK SHOW FRIDAY 17 SEPTEMBER 2010, 4.45PM BFC SHOW SPACE, SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Laura Smith THEMES: Relaxed minimalism, 80’s power dressing COLOURS: A restrained palette of greys and black FABRICS: Silk, suede and sheer chiffon Hannah Marshall proved exactly why she is being called the rising star of British fashion with an impressive collection that marked a departure from her signature all-black, fierce ensembles, and offered a softer approach that remained sexy, edgy and bold. The show opened with a moody and seductive black and white film by Rankin, which credibly captured the brands singular aesthetic. To the sound of ‘Strict Machine’ the collection began in Marshall’s trademark head-to-toe black with a todie-for floor length, sheer dress layered over form enhancing short body con, followed by divine chiffon shirts, a sweeping silk trench and sharply cut blazer with boxed shoulders and seductive sheer back. The collection then lightened to a palette of soft grey in pieces that were evocative of 80’s power dressing; cue plenty of blazers, dresses and long shirts cut in razor sharp lines with sculpted angular shoulders. This air of sleek androgyny continued through the final outfits as Marshall returned to a geometric mould in an architectural-style shaping of material. As the collection moved into a third dimension, silhouettes became sculptured and striking with boxes of concertinaed pleating attached to the peplums of slim-legged trousers, side-panels of dresses, blazer arms and fanned dramatically across the chest. For me, the most striking of these was a backless pale grey dress with this dramatic detailing set across the shoulder blades, transforming the model into an urban angel. This image characterised a collection in which light met dark and hard merged with soft, through the juxtaposition of soft, feminine shapes with rigid lines. Colour and texture also played its part, as the use of a light grey gave geometric shapes a supple, chalky texture as they were rendered in suede. In showing a softer side to her typically sharp aesthetic, Marshall’s latest collection suggests a desire to become more commercial, with the addition of colour and more wearable designs marking the next stage in the labels development. Having created a sleek, sexy and elegant collection with exciting silhouettes delivered with an expert use of cutting, colour, fabric and texture in pieces that aim to empower women, Marshall is most certainly one to watch.

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Keep colours retrained and minimalist -Sheer chiffon blouses and skirts -Figure hugging suede -Boxed shoulders paired with slim-legged trousers -Slicked back hair

PAUL SHENZHEN COSTELLOE CATWALK CATWALK SHOW SHOW FRIDAY 17 SEPTEMBER 2010, 9AM BRC SHOW SPACE, SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Daniela Morosini THEMES: Grown-up girlie, sophisticated fresh florals, parisian princess and the great gatsby with bite COLOURS: Icy pastels; peach, moss green, light blue, crisp white, pinks and silver. FABRICS: Thick, sheer cottons and linens with metallic overtones, leather and tweed and organza bows Fashion heavyweight and catwalk veteran Paul Costelloe brought the big game this year. Spring is the season where, traditionally, designers get a little less avantgarde, a little less cutting edge and play it that bit safer, keeping back all their wild ideas for the coveted September issue, and for a man like Costelloe, who has shown at London Fashion Week, the temptation to maybe just churn out some simple, ditsy florals would strong. Let the upstarts have their moment of glory, let autumn be the decider of the trends. And whatever we may have expected from a man who has shown at London Fashion Week every season for the last fifteen seasons, and dismisses the runway as “just PR”, we were all suddenly reminded why this label has managed to remain relevant for the last thirty years. At nine am on a cold, overcast morning in Somerset House, to the dulcet tones of Eliza Doolittle, fashion week began again. And boy, did it have something to say. Of course, there was the classic (soft pastels, scalloping, cocktail dresses) but there was the contemporary (icy tones, structured skirts, plunging backs), and even the classic with a contemporary twist, in the form of the bomber/tweed jacket hybrid.

best of both worlds: the combination of the items that made Costelloe’s name combined with the street style of the city he shows in. The subtle genius of the bomber/tweed jacket, or the traditional dresses with the new silhouette made the collection read like The Great Gatsby with teeth. Classics reinvented, trends subverted and Costelloe’s title as one of the most applauded and respected men in fashion forever secured, who says you can’t teach an old dog new tricks? HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Choose a light coloured party frock with a plunging back and mix with a studded clutch box bag, or pair scalloped edges mini skirts with cute day flats. -Throw a tailored leather jacket over a girly, pretty dress, and always have lashings of lace!

Costelloe’s colour palette included soft pastel peaches and creams, but with icy overtones of light blue, moss green and crisp whites, putting a fresh, sophisticated twist on the standard ice cream colours, with a metallic sheen catching the light. We’re talking colours to compliment the sunshine here, not ones to slide under its shadow, classical themes but with just a little bit of bite. Make a note of the soft metallic overtones; they’ll be springing up on every good high street knock off worth its salt. This season, Costelloe played around with the traditional spring party frocks, using structured skirts to accentuate tiny waists and lovely thighs and scoop backs with bow details to add a playful edge. There’s nothing overly protruding in the collection, and the tailoring always remains exquisitely elegant, but the slight exaggeration in the hips gives a nod to the twenty-somethings who will no doubt swarm to the collection. There’s no need for taffeta overload on Costelloe’s pieces; the punchy, oversized bows at the small of the back, the scalloped edges and the clean lines perfectly interweave the clean and modern with the soft and feminine. The real hero pieces of the collection were the ones with the

CRAIG LAWRENCE PRESENTATION SATURDAY 18 SEPTEMBER 2010 SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Leanne Milligan THEMES: ‘Siren Mermaid’s’ COLOURS: Mint green, aqua, silver, white FABRICS: Kyotex metallic yarn, cotton tape. Seductive. The one word which is best used to describe Craig Lawrence’s S/S 11 collection. We trotted up the winding staircases at Somerset House to the Portico Rooms to check out what this Ipswich born designer was bringing to the fashion world next season. And thank god he didn’t disappoint. Having witnessed his masterful abilities with yarn and all forms of weird fabrics (foil last season), I was intrigued as to where he would go for his next collection. A relatively new designer, and winner of the BFC NEWGEN award 4 season’s running, Lawrence kept the layering and draping techniques from his last collection, but used different fabrics and shades to encapsulate the seductive and elusiveness of mermaids. As we arrived we were blessed with Bloody or Virgin Mary’s and cakes, yum! As we walked around the room I began snapping some photos of the models. What is great about having a presentation is that the models can stare directly at you and your camera, and you get to see the detail and the intricate beauty of the pieces up close. We were also treated to a film of the collection which was styled once again by Katie Shillingford which played in the background. The knitted and hand woven dresses came in silver, white, aqua, mint green and dark green and presented a slinky silhouette with the floor sweeping knitted numbers. You could literally hear the dresses swoosh as the models walked. My favourite piece was the short green stripy knitted number which I wanted to rip off the model and run away with! Don’t worry, I didn’t. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Look out for hand woven knitted pieces pulled and draped in all different places -Slinky silhouettes -Fishtail plaits as sported by the models -Low backs (Key Trend Alert).

KINGSTON UNIVERSITY MA GRADUATES SHOW FRIDAY 17 SEPTEMBER 2010, 7PM VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Laura Grant Evans THEMES: mixing digital technology and fashion, multisensory design COLOURS: muted colour and a lot of black FABRICS: chiffon, silk and thick cotton When I heard I was covering the graduates’ show, I had mixed feelings. It was either going to be a stroke of genius for these emerging designers to be seen and heard whilst all the press were in town, or a disaster with the collections sinking amongst the big boys of LFW. Despite this, I trundled along to the show at the end of an epic day and was greeted with what can only be described as a cattle market for people, hot, sticky and the inability for anyone to move anywhere. With the show running nearly an hour late, by the time everyone entered the packed Freemason’s Hall all I could think about was getting home and putting my feet up. The PR crew really had made a faux pas when issuing press invites as most of the seated area was allocated to family and friends. This meant they had faltered at the first hurdle of getting reviews and pictures out there and seen. However, having questioned one particularly friendly PR girl, she found me a seat and I was full of optimism for the show. It was a very long show and afterwards I came out feeling bombarded with ten rather similar collections. There were many non-descript colours with draping, oversized accessories and protrusions of fabric. There were only two designers that stood out and these were Yasmin Siddiqui and Judy Zhang. Yasmin’s collection showcased an amazing statement necklace that was in a different league from the rest of the show. The shoe accessorising was also original and charming. There were cutaway pieces which are set to big for Spring. Big thumbs up. Judy Zhang’s collection was also very good and the ideas behind them were interesting indeed. A collection based upon sustainable fashion, Judy developed a digital pattern-cutting programme which eliminates very nearly all fabric waste. All the pieces were based on London Architecture and the combination of shape, design and fabric worked effortlessly, really making them stand out on the catwalk amongst a rather average show. So well done to Yasmin and Judy but overall, the show was a slight disappointment. Whilst I’m sure these designers are very talented, I’m not sure they are quite ready to compete in the minefield that is LFW. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Wear a lot of draped materials with structured shoulders -Statement accessories are key -Transparent, chiffon shirts with cigarette pants

LAKO BUKIA CATWALK SHOW SATURDAY 18 SEPTEMBER 1.15PM VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Laura Grant Evans THEMES: Georgian culture, Soviet Union architecture and block buildings COLOURS: crimson red, soft blues, muted grey, rose pink FABRICS: organza, silk satin, chiffon and cotton Lako Bukia’s first collection was highly anticipated and with buyers racing to snap it up at the London A La Mode showroom, this show was packed and it did not disappoint. The bright white catwalk lit up the pieces superbly and the first model strutted out in a high-impact crimson suit with striking shoulder detail, which set the standard for the rest of the minimalist pieces. None of the collection was fussy, instead it focused on structure and shape, inspired by the block buildings of the designer’s homeland, Georgia. The collection was a lovely combination of sharp shapes and soft colours and fabrics, which were a fusion of flowing organza and silk, contrasted with thick cotton. This effortless mix gave the impression the models were gliding down the runway. The collaboration with Georgian artist Aleksandra Mikadze on accessories worked perfectly and the handmade glass added to the glowing atmosphere of the whole show perfectly. A highly impressive first presentation at LFW which deserves every bit of the hype it has received. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Wear block colours and don’t be afraid of a strong palette. -Mix structured shoulders with flowing fabrics to keep a feminine feel. -Full skirts key. -Mix a romantic fabric with strong accessories and styling; don’t be afraid to have a prominent hairstyle as shown on the models

PROPHETIK CATWALK SHOW FRIDAY 17 SEPTEMBER 2010 , NOON VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Leanne Milligan THEMES: ‘Midnight Garden’ COLOURS: Ivory, indigo, oatmeal, lavender, copper, sea foam, raspberry and coral FABRICS: Sustainable fabrics such as hemp silk, linen, ramie, organic cottons and reclaimed leather. Prophetik is an eight-year-old, all-sustainable fashion lifestyle brand designed by, Jeff Garner from Leiper’s Fork, Tennessee. Employing recycled bottles transformed into fleece, herringbone hemp, peace silk, linen and hemp jersey, Jeff injects style and soul into a unisex line. Botticelli’s Venus took centre stage for Prophetik’s S/S 2011 collection entitled ‘Midnight Garden’. The collection provoked mystery and innocence with beautiful flowing Southern ball gowns trimmed with beaded leather ropes and delicate lace, tailored jackets and waistcoats decorated with antique buttons, pin-tucked tea dresses, hooded tunics and long-hemmed bloomers. The first piece out on the catwalk was my favourite, with its long flowing looseness and leather rope detailing, LOVED IT! The collection and the presentation had a Shakespeare’s ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ ethereal feel to it with Jeff’s use of elegant silhouettes and offish-white pieces. The live Southern Bluegrass band The Hogslops – from Jeff’s native Leipers Fork – added an extra theatrical element to the proceedings, I felt like I was at a Ho-down! But back to the clothes. As the models walked down the Green Turf catwalk (yes green turf), we were greeted with beautiful, almost other-worldly pieces. The womenswear collection was filled with whimsical, floaty dresses and ball gown dresses with varying necklines and straps whilst the menswear was more focused on layering with neckerchiefs, exquisitely tailored jackets and waistcoats decorated with antique buttons. The sustainable fashion theme was also relayed in the colour scheme with references made to the elements earth and water; earth based dyes hailing from indigo, dried indigo leaves, madder root, iron, marigold, and logwood where mixed with sea blues and greens really showcasing the beauty of Earth’s natural resources.

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Sustainable fabrics -Earth or water colours -French plaited whimsical hair -Defined shoulder detailing such as box or balloon shoulders -Tie Dye -Cravats -Waistcoats (male & females) -Think of a Tennessee Williams heroine.

SPIJKERS EN SPIJKERS CATWALK SHOW SATURDAY 18 SEPTEMBER 2010, 3.30 PM ON/OFF: VICTORIA HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Laura Smith THEMES: Innocence, femininity and the ephemeral nature of beauty COLOURS: Black, white, red and camel FABRICS: Silk, lace, printed crepe de chine and linen blends Once again the Danish duo showcased their talent for producing beautifully feminine and modern clothing in ‘Where the Wild Roses Are’, a captivating collection named after the 1995 duet by Nick Cave and Kylie Minogue. Inspired by the ballad’s tragic tale of a man’s fanatical obsession for his innocent lover’s beauty, which leads him to kill her in a desperate act of preservation, twins Truss and Riet explore the concepts of beauty and lost innocence through a fresh and stylish collection that evokes an invitingly girlish charm yet hints at a seductive, underlying darkness. Pretty white sundresses and shifts in both silk and lightweight linen blends appeared feminine and innocent with splashes of delicate floral prints interspersed with subtle embellishments, lace panels and broidery Anglaise. Crisp white collars were separated from black lace and floral print dresses with the unexpected exposure of skin proving a sexy and seductive twist, as did similar teasing cut-out sections on later dresses and shirts predominantly placed above the bust and the presence of black lace over bare skin. Signature tailoring favoured a masculine slant and served to further toughen the look through high-waisted shorts and trousers and with clean lines teamed with perfectly cut blazers, all rendered in camel, white and black. References to the 70’s, a prevailing trend for the season, were found in wide-legged trousers and a white linen jumpsuit with central lace panelling. Floral detailing throughout was vibrant in orange, red and yellow, while major colour bursts occurred in an eye-popping red satin shift and similar skirt teamed with a white lace top. The final outfits were all in black, including sexy fitted trench and seductive lace maxi dress. With a delightfully wearable and accomplished collection that’s sweet and chic with a sassy edge, it seems sugar and spice is what makes the Spijkers en Spijkers girl for S/S 11. So, with the aspiring label’s nicer than nice dresses and separates at the top of my wish list, I’ll keep my conclusion similarly short and sweet: Loved It!

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Use red as an accent colour -Invest in some vintage Laura Ashley or similar florals -Think Wimbledon with white summer dresses and pleated hems -Toughen delicate white lace and pretty floral prints with a fitted black blaz

SHENZHEN CATWALK SHOW SATURDAY 18 TH SEPTEMBER, 6.30PM VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Marion Sauvebois

Haiping Xie THEME: Tradition in the 21st Century COLOURS: Blue, black and gold FABRICS: Silk, lace, taffeta HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Combine Chinese prints with more modern fluid items -Wear gold accessories -Embroideries are a must

GROUNDSHOW THEME: A walk in the rainy countryside COLOURS: Turquoise, green, pink and yellow FABRICS: Wool and wellies HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Wrap up warm -Wear wellies -Opt for floral jumpers -The brighter the better Featuring two very different Chinese designers— Haiping Xie and GroundShow— this flamboyant show was a marvel of diversity and inventiveness. As a thunderous tribal drum beat stunned the audience into silence, Haiping Xie’s opulent and regal collection opened the spectacle. Distinctly modern silhouettes were cut in typically Chinese embroidered fabrics with a colour scheme—electric blue, gold, and black— reminiscent of ancient costumes. Tradition with a twist is the best way to describe the luxurious pieces floating past me. An array of contemporary minidresses with long flowing trains, sporting intricate golden dragon prints or blue and gold zigzag motifs, was soon followed by fluid black dresses harbouring bohemian-like gold trinkets. The infamous mandarin collar was also featured in the collection. Yet, it was rejuvenated and cleverly attached to glamorous backless gowns or long cocktail dresses. A treat!

GroundShow’s collection could not have been further removed from the lavish silks and ostentatious patterns of Haiping Xie’s ethnic line. As I had already noticed, flicking through the label’s pieces at the Shenzhen exhibition, GroundShow’s designer had a cool and rainy summer in mind when he devised this assortment of knitted dresses and

oversized jumpers. Presenting his collection in London, he clearly opted for a safe or rather sensible option: a wintry weather-friendly summer collection. How ingenious! Models wrapped up, as if for winter, and strutted down the catwalk in wellingtons ready to brave torrential rains. Despite the long sleeves and turtlenecks, one thing screamed sunshine: the warm colour palette. The appearance on the runway of an acid pink and juniper green striped dress was a perfect embodiment of the summer spirit and the regalia of floral prints and embroideries which followed added a bubbly edge to an already playful parade of harlequin outfits. The most eye-catching piece was a stunning multicoloured bonnet with floral embellishments and plaited tassels and pompoms running down the sides. Judging by the amazed â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;wowsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; which spread through the crowd as its proud owner made her advance on the runway, I was not the only one in thinking so.

OSMAN CATWALK SHOW SATURDAY 18 SEPTEMBER 2010, 3.15PM BFC SHOWSPACE, SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Lauren Hawes THEMES – 90’s minimalist style and effortless dressing COLOURS – Honeysuckle pink, zingy yellow and apple green contrasted with tan beige and navy FABRICS – woven and soft patent leathers and silks Osman’s new Spring Summer 2011 collection epitomises effortless dressing. The show starts with woven pieces in natural colours such as tan and beige. Osman then illustrates that for him, colour is key. He contrasts these natural colours with vivid shades of yellow, green and pink. Most of the pieces are simple and oversized with varying types of fabrics and colour combinations: yellow with white, pink with black, and soft feminine cuts are teamed with clean bold tailoring. As with many designers this season, Osman uses structuring in many of his pieces to add a futuristic feel to his collection. Many of the pieces have capped sleeves, which when paired with the oversized items, makes for an interesting duo. But not surprisingly, Osman makes it work! The main attraction was the structural shifts worn with loose fitting trousers in white and nude colours, a colour duo that may continue into the high street in the spring. The collection is a modern take on a dramatic yet wearable wardrobe that allows each piece to stand independently with no need for over the top accessories, hair or make-up. In fact, it would suggest that soon, that just out of bed look will be something to be proud of. The Osman woman is strong, creative and intelligent. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Stay simple, steer clear from bold prints and over the top accessories -Wear a plain colour (such as black, white or nude) with a brighter colour (like bright yellow, lime green or pink) -Look for oversized or asymmetric dresses or navy flared trousers -Keep the shoes simple, possibly a neutral coloured wedge. Again with the hair and make-up, simple effortless dressing is the key to perfecting the Osman look.

SIMON EKREILUS CATWALK SHOW SATURDAY 18 SEPTEMBER 2010, 1PM ON/OFF, VICTORIA HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Lauren Hawes THEMES: Grace Jones and The Norman Fosters Tower “30 St. Mary Axe” COLOURS: A palette of black and white complemented by flares of silver and light blue FABRICS: Silk, cotton, jersey, plastic Swedish designer Simon Ekrelius launched his unapologetically modern label in 1998, followed by ready-to-wear in 2006. He is currently based in London and his fans include Alison Goldfrapp and Lady Gaga. His spring summer collection has a strong structural feel with the basis of his collection being intricately cut cocktail dresses, cigarette trousers, jumpsuits and jackets. Simon’s interesting use of texture and colour bares similarities to my childhood memories of Cruella De Vil as many of his pieces are half black, half white with strong shoulder structuring complemented by big blonde hair with flashes of purple. Textures such as shiny, matt and grainy are used together to create an elegant yet futuristic take on Grace Jones and the 30 St Mary Axe Tower. Simon’s signature pieces include the silk jersey dress, the diamond cut skirt, the tank blouse and a clear plastic raincoat also appears. Big hats also seem to be a theme for the designer as many of the models wear black and white cone shapes hats or oversized sun hats. With shadows, straight lines and structure, Simon uses past decade design to reflect the future. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Stick to blacks and whites, with flashes of light blue (possibly in the form of a thin waist belt or a chiffon scarf) -If you’re not daring enough to wear half and half, go for a black high waisted pencil skirt teamed with a white blouse -Think Cruella De Vil (minus the fur and killing of the cute puppies) -In terms of make-up, stay simple, but go for a bold red/ orange on the lips.

BRYCE AIME CATWALK SHOW SATURDAY 18 SEPTEMBER 2010, 4.45PM VICTORIA HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Leanne Milligan THEMES: Asiarama COLOURS: Jewel tones; violent scarlet, pinks, greens and yellows with subtle swatches of white & neutral tones FABRICS: Jersey, Lycra and chiffon. Bryce Aime takes us on a journey through Far East Asia with his colourful new collection for Spring/Summer 2011. Inspiration for the collection is drawn from traditional Japanese theatrical Kabuki costume and the vibrant aesthetic of the Beijing Opera. An array of colours formed an enticing new take on Bryce’s signature prints and structural designs. Modern materials are manipulated to create garments that hark back to the ancient Orient whilst staying modern and fashion forward. The jewel tones and delicately structured pieces which sashayed down the catwalk, presented a more modern and young, tailored look from Bryce. It was a complete move away from last season’s tough, structured pieces into a more young, fresh and wearable collection. We were presented with an array of Turkish Delight jewel tones and structured, patterned patchwork pieces which were all layered together in a girly, feminine way. The kimonos were highly structured and sculptural with scalloped sleeves, enabling Bryce to make use of his sculptural techniques, but most of the collection was structured but with a more looser feel to it. I loved the patchwork detail dresses with dyed leggings. The 2-tone leggings sat really well with the dresses and the box hat and crazy huge feathered headpieces with the models wearing yellow tear stained makeup added an extra theatrical dynamic to the show. S/S 11 looks like the season we will be wearing collarless and draped jackets which were also showcased at the Bryce Aime show. One item I won’t be attempting to wear are the Toms style shoes on cut out platforms, lovely to look at, nightmare to walk in.

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Think of the Far East -Sculptured pieces -Mix toned leggings -Jewel tones -Structured shoulders (Key Trend Alert) -Kimono inspired pieces

A LA MODE CATWALK SHOW SATURDAY 18 SEPTEMBER 2010, 7.30PM CHARING CROSS HOTEL REVIEWED BY: Leanne Milligan THEMES: Hot summer nights, simplistic, rock n roll. COLOURS: White, grey, turquoise, sea green, lilac, red, cream, peach, wine FABRICS: Chiffon (and lots of it), denim, leather, jacquard, lace, velour, feathers. Was rather excited and intrigued by what the A La Mode fashion show was going to offer us. Sometimes with emerging designers, the collections can be a bit of a hit and miss depending on if they take a risk which works or they go too far and don’t think about the collection as a whole. The show however gave us a multitude of talented designers and I was drooling over some of the collections (or maybe that was the free drink and goody bags too?) Omar Mansoor kicked off the show with his elegant collection entitled ‘After the Dance.’ Inspired by British Theatre, the collection consisted of full length gowns adorned with intricate embellishments. Drool number one! The draping, the embellished and banded waist detailing with the fitted top and floaty skirt detailing in the dresses where just phenomenal. The subtle colour palette of silvery-greys, dusky pinks, wine and midnight blues maintained a simplistic and beautifully graceful silhouette and look. Ukrainian designer and stylist for dance television shows Valery Kovalska followed, with her rock and grunge inspired collection, ‘Professional Suicides’. Her electric blue and grey colour palette was created with leather fabrics perfectly sculpted around the body. The harsh music and choreography of her show proved a huge success as reflected by the cheers at the end of her 16 look showcase. Further talent was exhibited from eastern European designer Belinda Liu who showcased a collection of playful tutu and peplum style skirts. The French Maid inspired dresses added a bit of Va-Va-Voom to the proceedings with Belinda also focusing on next season’s trends of hoods, ruffled and pleated skirts, pouffed bottoms and structured shapes. Nigerian designer, Zed Eye followed and proved to be a very popular showcase with her feathered and colourful palette conveying a hot summers day; perfect for S/S 2011. Big shoulders were a feature here too, with feather detailing and the dreaded next season low crotch pants! A mix of skater dresses and jumpsuits by Parisian chic label Malam saw comfort and wearability rock the runway. Each look was cleverly accessorised with rock edge cuffs and jewellery supplied by Helena Delacour. Finally, Kate Williams jetted her latest collection all the

way over from Australia to give London’s fashion followers a taste of what’s hot down under. Kate was a much anticipated designer showcasing this season and her stunning collection did not disappoint with us fashionistas drooling over her draping, bat cape detailing, print and especially the finale white crystal beaded dress. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Low crotch pant -Pleated skirts -Feathers -Draping -Jacquard print -Hoods -Bloomer pants -Pouffed skirts -Fitted up top, loose down below -Blue leather jackets (KEY TREND)

BASSO & BROOKE CATWALK SHOW SUNDAY 18 SEPTEMBER 2010, 9AM BFC SHOWSPACE, SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Lauren Hawes THEMES – 70’s Polaroid, oriental and antique prints COLOURS – A neutral palette with flashes of green, yellow, blue and black FABRICS – Silk, cotton, suede, tweed and leather “To look backward for a while is to refresh the eye, to restore it, and to render it the more fit for its prime function of looking forward”, a quote from Margaret Fairless Barber, 1902. In short, it reads, more of the same please. Which is exactly what we got from designers Bruno Basso and Christopher Broke, aka Basso and Brooke. The pair won Fashion Fringe in 2004 and have been showing at London Fashion Week since 2005. It would seem that they are the kings of digital print, with many of their pieces displaying antique floral and subtle animal prints amongst faded shades of mustard, turquoise and brown. Their items include a-line tulip skirts and dresses, all with clean classic lines. The collection is a contrast of their simplest, yet most complex one to date. My favourite item in particular is a short pale green a-line dress, taped in at the waist, with a round neck, short sleeves and a subtle floral print on the front. Whilst staying true to their roots yet playing ahead of the game by reworking their signature prints, the design duo did not disappoint! HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Look for antique floral prints of subtle faded animal prints such as snake skin and leopard print. -Stick to colours like pale greens, mustard and creams -A line or tulip skirts or dresses that are taped in at the waist are the way to go -Keep the hair, make-up and accessories simple and wear a pair of nude platform heels

BETTY JACKSON CATWALK SHOW SATURDAY 18 SEPTEMBER 2010, 1PM BFC CATWALK SPACE REVIEWED BY: Laura Smith THEMES: Forties inspired utilitarian, loud Club Tropicana prints, sporty separates. COLOURS: An unusual mix of muted natural hues and vivid colours. FABRICS: Silk, satin, tweed, jersey, cotton, ostrich feathers. As expected, Betty Jackson; the ‘Grande Dame’ of British fashion and stalwart of the LFW on schedule, drew a crowd to the main catwalk space dominating the courtyard of Somerset House. Taking inspiration from the Women’s Land Army, her diverse collection began with tweed and satin jacquard coats, cinched in at the waist with slim belts suggesting a hint of vintage glamour. More nipped silhouettes followed as wide-legged trousers and high waist shorts in taupe, chocolate brown and beige were paired with light cream blouses. The look was updated with sporty touches created by light jersey fabrics and drawstring details updated the look. Throughout the show we were offered an impressive array of textures, which also included high shine cottons, satin and ostrich feathers. Colour, and indeed summer, was eventually injected with the appearance of a swimsuit and bikini top in loud Club Tropicana prints that continued into both jumpsuits and dresses, moving from aqua and white to bright pink and burgundy, with acid yellow and lime green dominating later outfits. Strongest pieces echoed the forties theme, reminiscent of outfits worn by Keira Knightley and Sienna Miller in the Dylan Thomas biopic The Edge of Love, done here with a soft touch in mostly earthy, natural shades. Oversized pearl necklaces and bouncy, waved hair completed the look, along with towering wedges that caused one poor model to loose her stride. Thankfully she soldiered on with utilitarian-style bag in tow. At the show’s conclusion a young British designer beside me described the collection as “uninspiring” and sadly I had to agree. It seems that too many ideas were thrown in, which, for me, created a lack of cohesion and absence of memorable outfits, (save for a few nicely tailored coats and black ostrich-feather trousers that, nevertheless, seemed an odd choice for summer!) Nor was I a fan of the Jackson’s use of colour, which saw

brown, taupe and beige clash with garish limes, pinks and yellow. However, I’ve no doubt this collection will sit well with Jackson’s existing admirers and hats off to her for an innovative experimentation with fabrics and textures. Not quite my cup of tea though. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Cinch in waists with skinny belts -Mix up fabrics and textures -Wear loud prints in tropical colours -If you dare, contrast muted tones with vivid citruses, pinks blues

ELLIOTT J. FRIEZE CATWALK SHOW SUNDAY 19 SEPTEMBER 2010, 12.30PM VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Leanne Milligan THEMES: Mrs Practchett’s confectionary in Boy: Tales of a Childhood COLOURS: Powder shades of Lemon, Blueberry, mint FABRICS: Superfine wools/silks, cotton/silks, duchess satins and digitally printed chiffon. Last season saw the launch of Welsh born designer Elliott J. Frieze’s debut Women’s and Menswear collection at London Fashion Week with acclaimed models Jaquetta Wheeler and Amber Le Bon both gracing the Catwalk in his designs. This season saw Elliott’s inspiration drawn from his friend and muse, Actress, Anna Popplewell. Anna’s style mixes with competitive sports, equestrian Fixtures, childhood reading and a progressive reinvigoration of classic mein, saw a collection filled with beautifully structured and colourful pieces. Jumpsuits, waistcoats, ruffles, blue satin dresses and shirt dresses, blue check dresses, high-waisted navy trousers, cropped jackets, structures shoulders, defined waists, defined cuff details, silk neckties, and sunglasses galore where the mix of the collection. The long hemlines we are seeing this A/W season are still going to be dominant next season but Elliot added a sophisticated, youthful take on a classic shape. Even the music itself was sophisticated and sensual yet youthful with French classics echoing around the catwalk (my favourite soundtrack on the week). The finale piece - which got its own section in the show when the lights went down and up again as the beautiful Anna Popplewell (of Narnia fame) – was sent down the catwalk to the dulcet tones of Marilyn Monroe singing ‘When I Fall in love’ wearing a beautifully constructed silver blue duchess satin ballgown with defined waist, shoulders and bust. Heaven. The collection’s palette portrays “Mrs Pratchett’s” array of confectionary in Roald Dahl’s “Boy: Tales of a Childhood’. “Represented by the powder shades of Lemon and Blueberry sherbet, hard-boiled peppermints coupled with vibrant shades of fruit nougat for trimmings” along with his Quentin Blake illustrations inspiration, it really was a collection with everything in it and thank god – unlike a lot of S/S shows – it wasn’t safe.

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Powder palette -Elegant drapery (KEY TREND ALERT) -Silk neckties -Waistcoats -Structured jackets (especially Mac-style) -Blue lips

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON CATWALK SHOW SUNDAY 19 SEPTEMBER 2010, 6.30PM BATTERSEA POWER STATION REVIEWED BY: Leanne Milligan THEMES: 70’s, shipwreak COLOURS: Matthew’s usual jewel tones with mixtures of khaki and metallics FABRICS: Feathers, silk, tufty raffia appliqué, sequins, and of course chiffon. I have waited a long, long time to go to a Matthew Williamson show so the question I was asking myself as I sat amongst Sienna Miller, Poppy Delevigne, Cat Deeley and Olivia Palermo was; will it be worth the wait? Well ladies and gentleman, indeed it was! All the ingredients were there for a successful show; Sienna front row, eye-popping colours a-plenty and a backdrop to end all backdrops. Matthew is back. After a few seasons where he seemed to be trying to change direction, it was great to see the Williamson we love parading down the catwalk but with added twists to keep it modern and fashion forward and just…pretty! As I left the Vauxhall Fashion Scout building to head to the show location at Battersea Power Station, I hopped in a cab thinking the driver would know where to go. Alas he did not and started freaking out when we got to the dust-filled grounds of the venue which he likened to the Sahara Desert. Post-Cabbie meltdown, I exited to see the Power Station in all its glory and could see right away why we Fashionistas had the trek to South London. The catwalk itself was enclosed in a massive tent with open sides where the models where entering the catwalk so we could see the collection against the ruined façade of the towering and glowering plant in the background. The clothes I hear you ask? The clothes were divine as always. From the petrol sequin dresses, flapper style purple

and white fringed dress, the flowing gowns, metallic embroideries, bustier tops and high waisted flares, peacock feather hemlines, foil printed mini dresses and the huge wooden platform sandals with long multi-coloured bags, everything just screamed want (or as I will tell my Credit Card – NEED). The collection exhibited a 70’s theme with the fringe detailing, wide high waisted flare trousers, and that relaxed glam look associated with the decade but with a modern twist of metallics, sequins, and feathers. The idea of a shipwrecked girl, toughened up by her time stranded on a beach worked really well as the main theme of the collection as well as sitting well alongside the ruins of the Power Station. It’s reaaally hard to pick a favourite piece from the collection, I loved various detailing to all the outfits, but I would probably have to say the foil printed mini dress as well as the long sea-green chiffon dress were at the top of my list swiftly followed by the amazing bra top and high waisted flare trousers. As the show ended I grabbed a quick photo of those on the front row and ran to the buses which would take us back to the main venues. Drama of the show over? NO. As I was heading to the bus a helicopter decides to land about 200 yards away from me throwing dust all over me, hair and bags everywhere and nearly blowing me back over the other side of the Thames! I will be having words with the helicopters passengers…yes I am talking to you Sienna Miller! Well at least I fitted in well for the next show Pam Hogg with it’s Caveman theme. Hmph. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Jewel tones -Pops of khaki -Metallics -Feathers -Sequins -Bustier tops paired with high waisted kick flare trousers -Long flowing dresses -Long wavy, unkempt hair.

MASHA MA CATWALK SHOW SUNDAY 19 SEPTEMBER 2010, 11AM VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Laura Grant Evans THEMES: rugged buildings from the meatpacking district in New York COLOURS: white, ice blue and touches of blush and silver FABRICS: fine cotton, draped chiffon Masha Ma was the most highly anticipated new designer of London Fashion Week and the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Hall was packed out. As I took my seat there was a buzz about the designer whose debut at LFW straight out of Central Saint Martins was a first. The ‘Icebreaker’ collection consisted of structured skirts brought to life with a smoky print teamed with light jackets and loose fitting, sheer shirts. Pastel hues were the palette of the day, although the combination of these with ice white and heavy metallic accessories brought a new dimension to Spring/Summer 2011. Futurism and the industrial influence gave an edge but the focus on a feminine look prevailed. The real statement pieces, a dramatic, chalky white coat and a superhero cutaway cape, dominated the runway and focused on the core of this season’s layered yet clean look. A stunning collection that deserves the buzz it acquired. I know exactly what I’ll be wearing come Spring. HOW TO ACHIEVE THE LOOK: - layering with ruffles -structured statement skirts teamed with sheer, chiffon blouses -silver metallic accessories -capes, capes, capes!

MICHAEL VAN DER HAM CATWALK SHOW 19 SEPTEMBER 2010, 2.45PM TOPSHOP SHOWSPACE, OLD EUROSTART TERMINAL, WATERLOO STATION REVIEWED BY: Lauren Hawes THEMES: The work of the Hollywood costume designer Adrian COLOURS: A wide range of colours including blues, purples, yellows and pinks FABRICS: Velvet, chiffon, satin, jersey Welcomed with soup and champagne, I found myself in awe of the vast area that was the Topshop show space. However, since we were running (literally!) late, there was no time to spare (or eat the delicious mushroom soup) before taking our seats in preparation for the chic nevertheless, eccentric show that was Michael Van Der Hamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s S/S 11 collection. Known for his ultra-feminine style, his S/S 2011 collection continues to be inspired by the infamous Hollywood costume designer Adrian which is clearly visible through Michaelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique designing techniques. With texture being another clear theme, Van Der Ham created a collection that any fashionista would be mesmerised by. Materials such as velvet, jersey, satin and chiffon have been patched together to create dresses, high waisted pencil skirts and off the shoulder blouses. Michael Van Der Ham is another designer that has explored layering and draping in his latest collection. A wide range of colours was used to create almost patchwork yet sophisticated style clothing. The feminine prints, rouched layering and variety of colours are all carefully matched, leaving a peculiar but beautiful collection. To compliment this classy collection, was sleek straight hair, platform heels in various shades and yellow eye makeup. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK -look out for feminine prints on shades of blue and purple. -high waisted pencil skirts teamed with chiffon blouses and metallic accessories -keep the hair and make-up simple with a brighter colour on the eyes -Just imagine what would happen if you put a patchwork quilt in a cocktail shaker with Charlotte York...Intrigued?

FASHION MODE C SUNDAY 19 SEPTEMBER 2010, 4PM VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Laura Smith THEMES: Political activism, relaxed tailoring, elegant simplicity, empowered femininity COLOURS: Brown, cream, nude, navy, khaki, black, grey, white and silver FABRICS: Cotton, jersey, velvet, leather, chiffon, silk During this year’s Fashion Week, the Fashion Mode showcase was the place to scout out fashion’s promising future stars, as the company’s key aim is to nurture and support talented young designers, with the showcase acting as a crucial platform that brings their innovative and cutting edge collections into the limelight. For this reason I was full of expectations as I sat front row, eager to see what the next generation had to offer. Safe to say, I wasn’t disappointed! CARLOTTA ACTIS BARONE First up was Carlotta Actis Barone, who used her collection ‘Wear My Skin’ to voice her political views on racism, particularly the deportation of Africans to America during the 1865 civil war. This was translated, quite literally, through cool nude bodysuits covered in digitally printed political slogans in newsprint, giving the appearance of tattooed skin, and was used underneath each outfit. Reflective of Barone’s inspiration, the colour palette was based on skin tone; ranging from pale nude to dark brown. Designing for a strong yet feminine woman, Barone achieved a delicate balance between structured tailoring and feminine shapes by accentuating womanly contours, seen in a-line jacket style dresses with emphasised shoulders and hips, as well as an elegant take on dungarees, draped at the hip and tapered at the ankle, held by a strap at the front disguised as a tie. Big, pincushion styled hair also added to the theme of imperialism, which underlies this impressively powerful collection. JAMES HILLMAN

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Hillman’s semi-tailored collection was based on the ‘Teddy Boy look’ and employed starchy grey fabrics in tailoring that was sharply cut and paired with collarless, crisp white shirts, buttoned up to the throat. Hillman’s jackets and overall silhouettes were slim and close to the body yet remained masculine. However, the collection also contained androgynous elements, seen in the contrasting textures of leather, chiffon, silk and jersey which aimed to confuse our perception of masculine and feminine. Although, while certainly memorable, I’m not entirely convinced on how popular shorts and tunics in see-through chiffon would be with the everyday male shopper! At times I thought the look was a little staid, but it avoided becoming pretentious by retaining a casual edge through crushed jersey tees in asymmetric cuts, long sporty shorts and open waistcoats. Punctuating the grey and

CATWALK SHOW white palette with minute accents of lilac and pastel green also helped. ELSON FIGUEIRDEO Taking inspiration from the lives of 19th European carnies, Figueiredo’s menswear collection was subtle yet highly stylised and sought to mix elegance with the everyday. His combination of casual work wear and traditional tailoring makes for a laid-back and incredibly wearable collection, which included classically-cut trousers in black, navy and khaki, complete with long braces. These were paired with simple fair-trade cotton vests in white (meaning an abundance of sexy biceps on display!) and elegant suit jackets, made distinctive by slivers of gingham on the hems of pockets, cuffs and lapels. Another defining feature was the addition of elbow patches, not only to suits but also long sleeved jersey tops and the shins of certain trousers, similarly done in corresponding fabrics and colours. What impressed me most about Figueiredo was his precise attention to detail, which, along with simple yet considered design, created a smart, quirky and distinctive collection. FLORIAN JAYET My favourite collection was the last, in which Florian Jayet not only celebrated the female form but empowered it. In a style strongly influenced by the futuristic concepts of Thierry Mugler and Paco Rabbane, Jayet sculpts and accentuates the female form with bold, fitted and highly structured shapes that are reminiscent of the design of armour and insects’ bodies. These are mainly situated on the hips and across the shoulder blades, in a way that highlights a feminine shape but also hardens the overall aesthetic, done as it is through a colour palette of black, white, silver and grey with hints of gold; reflecting the colours produced by shining silver metal. Exaggerated false eyelashes also add to the insect theme, indeed the gorgeous structural detailing used repeatedly in the collection seem almost like an insect’s exoskeleton and seems both hard and soft, as it is sculpted like armour but done in organic curves and contrasted with sort, sheer fabrics. I loved how the juxtaposition of fierce structure and dramatic curve created the perfect silhouette for a strong and empowered woman, and have a sneaking suspicion that we’ll be seeing a lot more from Jayet in the future!

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: Womenswear: -Choose clothing that accentuates curves to create a sexy, hourglass figure -Pick up some skin coloured tights with black tattoo style embellishment -Wear clothes that sculpt and highlight the shoulders -Combined soft textures with sleek structures and tailoring Menswear: -Stick to understated colours of grey, black, white and navy -Tailoring is relaxed, yet retains classic cuts -Wear with casual and plain t-shirts and vests -Define hemlines on pockets and lapels with a little colour

MULBERRY SALON SHOW SUNDAY 19 SEPTEMBER 2010, 1.15PM CLARIDGE’S BALLROOM REVIEWED BY: Laura Smith THEMES: Grown-up, decadent glamour, abstract florals, delectable arm-candy! COLOURS: Chestnut, beige, burgundy, plum, pale pink, blue and white FABRICS: Silk, satin, cotton, leather, suede Mulberry invited us to Claridge’s for their SS11 showcase, where we were treated to jam and scones as we observed a delightfully soft and feminine collection that drew romantic inspirations from the vintage glamour of ‘Grey Gardens’ and the timeless novel ‘The Secret Garden’. Birdsong drifted through the magnificent ballroom and large roses surrounded the catwalk, reflecting an inviting colour palette of burgundy, plum, pink, beige and creamy peach that was complemented and contrasted with varying shades of blue, from cobalt to eggshell.

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Go for soft textures in silk and cotton -Cinch in jackets, dresses and high-waisted trousers with a skinny brown belt -Be playful with prints but remain delicate and soft in colour -Complete the look with a classic bag in one hand and pooch in the other! Quick Chat with Alexa Chung: Editor: So what did you think of the show? Alexa: Yeah I thought it was really good. I always enjoy their bags, a lot! I liked the grey gardens theme and all the suits they’ve done are really nice as well. Jackets with the skirts and cinch waist…I like that. Ed: How are you enjoying fashion week so far? Al: Yeah it’s good. I got here yesterday morning from NY so I’m pretty tired. I keep meaning to go to shows but then end up falling asleep. Ed: How do you keep yourself going? Al: I don’t know. I don’t really, I just have a nap. That’s it, have a little nap!

Mulberry presented a red-headed girl who has definitely grown up for spring/Summer, dressed in matching jackets and skirts, luxe blouses tucked into trousers with high, pleated waists, demure ¾ length hemlines, ankle skimming summer dresses and suede ankle boots. Sumptuous outerwear was refined and tailored, in classic trenches with gold buttons, adorable suit jackets and soft, supple leathers in cobalt and plum. Silhouettes were long and lean; predominantly cinched at the waist with slim belts for a classic, lady-like look that retained hints of girlish charm with ruffles and sweet flower and bow detailing. Softly textured animal prints lightened the collection; my favourites contained little rabbits bounding around fields of abstract pastel florals. The presence of dogs on the runway reflected the label’s charming eccentricities, with each fashionable pooch dressed in Mulberry, naturally. Yet it was the bags accompanying each outfit that really stole the show, (I lusted after every single one!) New arrivals Tillie and Cory were followed by the iconic Alexa and Bayswater, which retained their trademark classic, timeless design and luxuriously soft leathers, but were updated in new iridescent shades, silver chains, studs and the occasional sprinkling of Swarovski crystals! Mulberry muse Alexa Chung was, of course, seated front row along with Gemma Arterton, Karen Gillan and Oliva Palermo. As I left, I found a complimentary packet of carrot seeds attached to my goody bag and look forward to planting these in spring when Mulberry’s collection of covetable bags and elegant, easy to wear glamour becomes available!

PAM HOGG CATWALK SHOW SUNDAY 19 SEPTEMBER 2010, 8PM ON/OFF, VICTORIA HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Laura Smith THEMES: Trademark punk glamour, asylum restraint, futuristic chic COLOURS: Ivory, cream, brown, black, silver and gold FABRICS: Lycra, leather, cotton and chiffon with the occasional chain, padlock and antler! In the main On/Off show space the atmosphere is electric and buzzing with anticipation. No wonder, as Pam Hogg – renowned innovator and rebel to the establishment – is about to unveil her latest collection, ‘To Kingdom Come’. Heralding the start of yet another powerful showcase, Alice Dellal marches half naked down the catwalk, beating a drum and wearing a striking antler headpiece. Inspired by asylums, the first part of the collection sees models confined in padlocked chains, then gagged and bound in brown belts that wrap around cream jackets and industrial style jumpsuits; a look which is extended to their perilously high wedges and fabulous handbags. In an unusual soft brown print that resembles knotted wood, short dresses and one shoulder tops with Grecian style drapery appear more commercial than normal for Hogg. Then, in an instant, the mood changes from constraint to empowerment as she returns to her signature style. Lycra catsuits and body con dresses with angular shoulders, captured in lacerated wet-look metallics, are worn with huge pompom headbands, and the recurring palette of ivory, silver and gold is repeated in dresses characterised by quirky bustles. Like superheroes, Sophie Willing, Ben Grimes and Daisy Lowe sweep past the celebrity strewn audience in skin-tight leotards with billowing chiffon sleeves. Things end on a sexy, gothic undertone; with black and seductive outfits of barely there ruffles that barely cover anything, and sheer black lace that not only coats the body but also masks the face. Watching ‘To Kingdom Come’ was one of my most memorable LFW experiences (trust me, that’s saying something!) and definitely encapsulated Hogg’s renegade nature and innovative spirit, once again proving why she has achieved cult status in the fashion world. You wouldn’t wear it down the shops but, boy, is it fun to watch!

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Look for cream bags, trousers and jackets with brown belt detailing -Opt for Grecian one-shoulder draping and billowing sleeves -If you’ve got the figure for it, crack out the lycra!

DESIGNERS REMIX PRESENTATION MONDAY 20 SEPTEMBER, 12.15PM SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Lauren Hawes THEMES – Elegance COLOURS – black, white and grey FABRICS – leather, suede, chiffon, silk and lace As I read the press pack, I discover that Charlotte Eskildsen (Creative Director of Designers Remix) and I have one thing in common; it’s her first fashion week too! Designers Remix collection is a high end line designed for the sexy, edgy unpredictable woman. Described as Copenhagen’s queen of 3D tailoring, Charlotte’s signature piece is the LBD. Her liquid sky collection illustrates that the Little Black Dress is deeply embedded in her DNA. The black, white and grey cocktail dresses ooze with luxury with rows of descending ruffles, dramatic draping and a cascade of laces. As a key S/S 11 trend, Charlotte uses draping to echo cloud formations in the sky, hence the name ‘Liquid sky’! As someone who wears nothing but black dresses, I loved the exaggerated flower detailing on one of her off-the shoulder pieces. Pleats were also a focal point of many of the dresses, my particular favourite being a long train appearing on a short evening gown punctuated with fan like pleats on one side. Some of the items were purposely off centre, such as a ribbed jacket with a floral detailing on the collar. While others had beautiful back and side details such as a black dress with black spaghetti straps on the back or the grey top with a lace insert along the back. All in all, Charlotte Eskildsen’s beautiful S/S 11 collection perfectly summarises the Designers Remix woman: sophisticated, curious and powerful with a lust for life and femininity. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Look out for LBD’s with ruffles, back and off the shoulder detailing -Don’t be afraid to go for items with exaggerated pleating and draping -Think elegance, poise and sophistication -Team your LBD or LWD (little white dress) with a leather or suede jacket and platform heels.

J MASKREY FILM SCREENING SUNDAY 19 SEPTEMBER 2010 SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Lauren Hawes THEMES – Timeless Hollywood Glamour meets distorted, the cool hallucinogenic aesthetic of Jimi Hendrix COLOURS – Dark heavy colours such as black, silver and red FABRICS – silks, crystals, lace J Maskrey is known for her beautiful skin jewellery and her ability to turn dark heavy colours into light wearable pieces. Her growing lists of celebrity clients include Rhianna, Mariah Carey and Gwen Stefani. Her designs are a regular feature in international magazines such as Vogue, Elle and Harper Bazaar. And I am pleased to announce, her Spring Summer collection does not disappoint! It is clear from the start where the inspiration for her collection stems from with surreal music and lighting and the glamour of the crystals and sequins. Her use of sequins, fine silks and crystals add a sparkle to the predominantly dark palette. The most noticeable piece being a mannequin with a torso dressed almost entirely in black skin jewellery, accompanied by a gold crystal 2 piece skirt and sleeveless jacket. Whilst watching the screening, I am reminded of Rita Hayworth’s in Gilda; the hair, the gloves, the glamour! The pieces are dramatic and provocative and give a sense of timeless Hollywood Glamour. The J Maskrey woman has been described (by the designer herself) as someone who loves dressing up and has a great attitude. If you hear yourself cry “Thats me!” have a look at her website where you can find (and buy) some of her beautiful skin jewellery. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK -Glamour is the key to perfecting this look. Stick to dark colours such as black, red and gold and materials such as silk, chiffon and lace -Don’t go too over the top with the skin jewellery, one piece on the shoulder is enough, teamed with a pair of oversized sunglasses with crystal detailing.

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ROMEO PIRES CATWALK SHOW MONDAY 20 SEPTEMBER 2010, 2.30PM VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Leanne Milligan THEMES: Grunge, Painter/Decorator COLOURS: Offish white, cream, black, gold, grey, swirls of colours FABRICS: Linen, cotton, silk. Not one for the faint-hearted this one! The show began with darkness and eerie footsteps sounds as 2 models entered and stalked down the catwalk. Chills. The drama, theatrics (models wearing white facepaint) and loud booming music sat well with Romeo Pires Spring/Summer 2011 collection which was full of grunge-inspired long white shirts, cascading jackets, pleated skirts, dungarees, braces and low crotch trousers (yes, AGAIN). The loose fitting fabric was structured on the material itself but not on the models bodies, giving the look a slouchy, draped look which we were seeing all over the S/S 11 catwalks. The hemlines were long at the back and shorter at the front with S/S 11’s biggest trend – side hip detailing - remaining dominant at this show also. Wasn’t too sure about the braces with low crotch pleated skirts (I am not Eminem thank you very much) but I loved the harvest colours mixed with the classic colours with pops of swirly vibrant shades. Around ¾ of the way through the show, The Way You Look Tonight hit the speakers and we were treated to a more feminine few pieces from the early collection pieces which leaned more to masculine tailoring and shapes. The monochrome colours worked really well and I especially loved the offish white slouchy shirt/a-symmetric shirt combo. The hair and make-up enforced a key S/S 11 beauty trend with the models being given an alien and almost other worldly look with the white clown face paint and wispy frizzy hair at the front with a braid bun. This made a complete clash with the grunge and unkempt look of the collection which is why it worked on the catwalk. Will it work on the street though? Bar the East London crew who will love it, and the low crotch trousers; I can see the oversized shirts being a big hit and also the collar and cape-sleeve detailing on the shirts and jackets. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Slouchy shirts -Braces -Low crotches -White and brown brogues -Skull detailing -Pleated skirts (Key Trend Alert) -A-symmetric tailoring

CHARLIE LE MINDU CATWALK SHOW SUNDAY 19 SEPTEMBER 2010, 1030AM ON/OFF, VICTORIA HOUSE, REVIEWED BY: Marion Sauvebois THEME: Post apocalypse/drag bar/decadence COLOURS: Neon and pale pink, black, brown FABRICS: Hair (!), leather and ‘au naturel’ Imagine a ravaged post-apocalyptic world where ‘trash’ culture has become the norm. Where women dress like men in drag, harbouring eccentrically kitsch wigs, and the general atmosphere is one of dissoluteness and depravity. Now imagine being propelled into this alien world and confronted with the bizarre, outrageous and scandalous on a Sunday morning in a traditional Victorian venue, appropriately named Victoria House. This little exercise will not get you even close to the shocking, unsettling and dystopian experience offered by Charlie Le Mindu’s Spring/Summer 2011 fashion show. The show opened with the detonating sounds of rave music soon infused with, to the amazement of the crowd— yours truly included—, orgasmic moans. It is to this evocative melody that the French-born hairdresser’s latest line was displayed for the guests to see. His hairpieces came in all kinds of acid colours and shapes: neon wigs ornamented with a plastic bottle, a flamingo headpiece worthy of Lady Gaga’s most arresting toupees—she is actually one of Le Mindu’s customers—and a poodle wig (with an actual stuffed toy poodle’s head in the centre of it). True to his first love, hairdressing, Le Mindu’s garments were an ode to the human mane. From a black halter neck dress with a drop-waist hair skirt to a pale pink jumpsuit entirely made of this material, the show certainly took the audience out of their comfort zone. Alongside these dramatic pieces were several leopard print leotards and other black bodices. Yet, clothes at the show were more noticeable for their absence and when two stark naked models appeared on the catwalk a shocked whisper spread through the crowd. YES, you read correctly: two nude models with, for only attire, a pair of pink platform boots and oversized metallic hats. Le Mindu certainly pushed the boundaries of the acceptable at his Fashion Week show this season and set the bar really high for up-and-coming avant-garde designers and for his own future collections. If the show was remarkably staged, producing a perfect balance of shock and enjoyment, the clothes themselves—or lack thereof— were not exactly wearable. What is Charlie Le Mindu going to come up with next? That is the question on everyone’s lips.

ADA ZANDITION CATWALK SHOW MONDAY 20TH SEPTEMBER ON/OFF, VICTORIA HOUSE REVIEWED BY Marion Sauvebois THEME: The Pyramids of Egypt/ futuristic vintage COLOURS: Brown, beige, red and turquoise FABRICS: Silk, Chiffon and faux leather Ada Zanditon does know how to create momentum. Inspired by pyramids and structural shapes, her dramatic presentation, read short catwalk show, was infused with a perfect balance of poise and theatricality. Elegantly striding to the ethereal sounds of water dripping, each composed model soon stopped in her tracks to stare intensely at the audience before arching her body to mirror the sharp geometrical shapes on her garment. Zanditon’s ingenious use of triangular quilting which protruded at the front of sleek cocktail dresses was a stroke of genius and gave her collection a futuristic feel. As for her unusual combination of feathery fabrics with sturdier textures, it made for an arresting spectacle. Her addition of chiffon detailing cut into the centre of faux leather dresses with structural shoulders certainly stood out. If gold, brown and sandy beige dominated the colour palette, turquoise, orange and red floral fabric made a brief appearance. A floral chiffon dress harbouring raised turquoise pyramids down the front pushed the structural experiment even further by adding a softer and more summery touch to the line. This kaleidoscopic item would have been my favourite had it not been for an outstanding black silk dress ornamented with a gold bolero made of Zanditon’s signature quilted pyramids. Eccentric it was, but despite its volume, strangely wearable it was also. Attention to detail was palpable from the models’ high coneshaped buns down to their architectural shoes—probably the most original footwear designs I have seen at a fashion show this year. Designed by architect Julian Hakes, these ‘Mojito’ heels embraced the geometrical concept to perfection. Futuristic with hints of 1950s elegance and glamour, Ada Zanditon’s stylish pieces were truly impressive. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Opt for structured sleeves and architectural shapes -Mix different fabrics: chiffon with leather (or faux leather) -Short skirts and fitted dresses are a must

JASPER GARVIDA CATWALK SHOW MONDAY 20 SEPTEMBER 2010, 18.15PM VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Laura Smith THEMES: 50’s Paris and Dega’s ‘Ballet Dancers’ COLOURS: Fresh palette of pink and purple complemented by gold, grey, white, bronze and peach FABRICS: Silk-organza, brocade, jersey, voile and sequins A troupe of stylish ballerinas took to the stage in Jasper Garvida’s pretty spring/summer 11 collection, aptly named ‘Belle’. Inspired by Paris in 1951, Garvida employed a fresh colour palette of muted pastels and neutral tones reminiscent of the French Impressionists and sought to recreate the silhouettes of Dega’s ‘Ballet Dancers’. Featuring slim-fitting tops and cropped suit jackets paired with knee skimming voluminous pleated skirts, soft jersey Aztec prints, shimmering sequins, layered voile, statement corsages and ample girlish embellishments; the collection was the epitome of femininity and evoked a youthful exuberance that, pretty in a palette of pinks, purple, peach, white and gold, is simply perfect for summer. The ballerina theme ran throughout with each model sporting a cute candyfloss coloured topknot, courtesy of Toni and Guy, topped with a crystal tiara. Soft textures of chiffon, looped organza, voile and ruffles added to the cute, girly aesthetic while grey streamlined tailoring gave it a more grown up edge. While the soundtrack sang ‘Filthy/Gorgeous’ the Garvida girl is all pretty in pink for 2011 and while it may have gone a little OTT with the sequins for my personal taste, I loved both the textured tailoring complete with dramatic ruffles on the hemlines, as well as the ballerina inspired dresses pulled in at the waist with pleated, fanned skirts that also suit a curvy figure. So, to sum up Jasper Garvida SS’11 – it’s ‘Belle’ by name, belle by nature! HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Release your inner-ballerina – get the silhouette with fitted tops and pleated skirts -Go girly with pink, purple, silver and gold -Play with soft textures and plenty of embellishments, think sequins galore! -Add a big corsage, ballerina bun and pink lips to finish the look

KRYSTOF STROZYNA CATWALK SHOW TUESDAY 21 SEPTEMBER 2010, 6PM VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Laura Grant Evans THEMES: Nature-inspired prints, the hourglass silhouette COLOURS: Muted palette with drops of neon violet, mint and fushcia FABRICS: Chiffon, lace, silk The sixth collection from the designer encapsulates his trademark bodycon shapes, graphic cuts and oversized wooden jewellery and propels them forward with new interpretations, including sharp cuts, considered draping and an injection of lace. The introduction of panels of lace into fitted dresses gives a structured and ultimately flattering shape, demonstrating Krystofâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s real understanding of the female form. What really caught my eye was the digital animal print that brought sharp bursts of neon colour, a trend that seemed to pop up throughout LFW. The neon violets, mint and fuschia cleverly contrasted the predominantly muted palette of the collection and touched on a futuristic theme. My favourite part of the collection was the draping that ensconced the dresses and skirts in feminine pastel colours, provoking an effortlessness to the whole collection. Although endlessly pretty and picking up on key trends for next season, I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help but feel there was something lacking in the collection. Perhaps it was the need for more of those exciting injections of colour, or perhaps there was just one draped bodycon dress too many. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Insert some colour into your base muted palette with accessories or prints. -Reinvent bodycon by adding layers of chiffon -Work animal prints in a digital, futuristic pattern. -Add texture by layering lace over dresses.

ANTIPODIUM PRESENTATION TUESDAY 21 SEPTEMBER 2010 SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Laura Grant Evans THEMES: Seventies sexual freedom, the hothouse COLOURS: Neutral palette with bursts of countryside greens. FABRICS: retro-edged cotton, waffle knitwear, stretch denim, silk Creative Director Geoffrey J. Finch revealed the S/S 2011 collection on a sunny, bright day at Somerset House in a relaxed tea party style presentation. The Hothouse collection promised to be a ‘steamy, sensual exploration through a garden of earthly delights,’ and indeed all of these things it delivered. There were beautiful prints on shirts and the trademark shirt dresses; muted, pastel colours and my personal favourite, a hot midi skirt teamed worn with a sheer blouse. The men were far from forgotten with tailored shorts, trench coats and super-shiny penny loafers. All the pieces in the collection would seamlessly become part of the wearer’s existing wardrobe with immense versatility in each piece. This was one of my favourite collections from the week and it seemed I wasn’t alone; Alexa Chung was there to admire the collection after having worn a dress from the label’s A/W 2010 to a party the night before. Thanks to Antipodium for propelling my fashion brain forward and causing excitement about Spring 2011! HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Look for midi length skirts -Printed shirts and dresses -Neutral colour palette with a splash of colour -Silky shirts teamed with classic wardrobe pieces such as trench coats

ROMINA KARAMANEA CATWALK SHOW TUESDAY 21 ST SEPTEMBER, 7PM VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Marion Sauvebois THEME: I wish I knew COLOURS: Grey, Turquoise, red and burgundy FABRICS: Silk, Chiffon, Lycra Given what I had heard about the Athens-born designer, I was convinced that her Spring/Summer collection—and the last womenswear show I would have the privilege to attend for quite some time—would be absolutely breathtaking. It wasn’t. Granted, her electric blue silk jumpsuit with button detailing and flared legs was stunning. So were her turquoise and burgundy fluid chiffon dresses. Their negligible number, however, meant that these standout pieces were drowned by a constant wave of plain beige trench coats and white mini-dresses. Even ornamented with sashes of blue, red or grey chiffon, they still failed to live up to Karamanea’s more exciting gowns and I found myself wishing the models sporting these uninspired garments would hurry back up the catwalk and leave room for the ‘real thing’. The iridescent burgundy hooded shawls and skirts were the highlight of this patchy show. A particularly stunning capped chiffon maxi dress with structured sleeves left me pinning for more. But, when a lean model clad in an oversized white shirt cropped at the front made her appearance on the runway, all hope was lost. The menswear part of the show consisted, for the most part, of monochrome lycra boxer shorts and black platform shoes. Despite some remarkable creations and an inspired choice of colours, the collection as a whole was far too inconsistent to impress. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Opt for flowing maxi dresses -Choose fluid fabrics -Wear oversized classic white shirts with a thin patent belt

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HEMYCA PRESENTATION TUESDAY 21 SEPTEMBER 2010, 4PM THE YACHT LONDON REVIEWED BY: Laura Smith THEMES: The labyrinth, ladies who power lunch COLOURS: White, black, grey and navy with hints of pink and caramel FABRICS: Satin, silk, wool, jersey, chiffon, crepe de chine For their latest collection, Hemyca quite literally pushed the boat out with the elegant and sophisticated setting of private members club, The Yacht London offering a perfect background for their similarly luxurious and refined spring summer collection. As we stepped onboard we were treated to a deliciously refreshing cocktail then ushered to the top deck for a chat with the designers and a peek at their latest collection. In what is now their fifth season at LFW, it seems that things are truly taking off in style for Helen Cinch and Myra Nigris; the women behind the label whose client roster now includes the likes of Cheryl Cole and Sophie Ellis Bexter. We’re told that their collection ‘Of Dark / Of Light’ is inspired by the labyrinth’s maze-like path and beautiful mix of dark and light. Helen explains: “We wanted to do create the idea of a labyrinth which is based on a personal journey of self-discovery and the clothing reflects the lines of the labyrinth.” In a Hemyca’s very own makeshift maze, models stand divided by white and blue silk screens, balancing impressively in stacked six inch heels as the yacht bobs on the Thames. We are shown exquisitely tailored silk jackets with curved lapels worn with sharp, pencil skirts and slim fitted trousers, and body enhancing dresses in jersey and crepe de chin that are embellished with satin piping, creating lines that mimic the labyrinth theme. The palette of black, white and navy are well suited to the collection’s nautical setting, with grey, pink and caramel also present. What strikes me the most is the quality of tailoring and the inventiveness of cuts, most evident throughout their diverse range of jacket. Clearly both women are adept in this craft, and their desire to source the best fabrics is also apparent, (they source quality menswear tailored cloth from Italy and Saville Row.) Through strong, clean lines with an emphasis on the waist, Hemyca’s designs cut a powerful and ultrafeminine silhouette. “We design for a sophisticated woman,” says Myra. “She’s strong and powerful with the personality and confidence to stand out from the crowd.” You can’t help but immediately warm to Helen and Myra; warm, fun and enthusiastic, they admirably aim to design for every woman, which I think makes their collection so in-

viting and refreshing. “Every woman should have the opportunity to wear something that makes her feel great,” says Helen. “We wanted to complement the female form in all its variations and to dress women of all ages, sizes and shapes in clothes that make them look and feel incredible!” The collection’s labyrinth theme is also reflective of the designers’ personal journey in creating, establishing and promoting an inventive, stylish and wearable British label and, as they continue to garner more praise and rewards for their sterling efforts, it seems the hard work is finally paying off. “The last few months have been incredible,” concludes Helen, “we’ve finally pushed through all the work and are now being recognised for the quality and shape of the designs – it really is like coming out of the dark and into the light!” We jumped ship, thoroughly impressed and coveting the girls impeccably tailored and luxurious separates while also admiring their ethos for designing stylish and flattering clothing for every woman. Bravo, ladies! Looking forward to more of the same. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Go for a sophisticated palette of grey, navy and white -Look for tailoring with interesting cuts that flatters your shape -Combine pencil skirts and slim leg trousers with softly defined jackets

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CHRISTIAN BLANKEN PRESENTATION TUESDAY 21 SEPTEMBER 2010 SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Lauren Hawes THEMES – 1920’s/ 1930’s athletic wear COLOURS – a neutral palette of beige, gray, black and white FABRICS – technical fabrics and textures ranging from nylon to jersey As my first Fashion Week is drawing to an end, quite frankly I am delighted to sit down for 10 minutes whilst Christian Blanken shows his S/S collection, Nine. Much to my surprise, Blanken displays his support and links with the sporting world through the inclusion of 3 of Britain’s most prominent Olympic hopefuls: Jodie Williams (the world junior 100m gold medallist), Tasha Davners (Olympic Bronze Medalist) and Vicki Barr (Commonwealth 400m athlete). By featuring these sports women in the presentation, it be may the aim of Blanken to create the idea of poise, strength and performance into the minds of the fashion world and to suggest that the body is a work of art and an object of beauty. The collection’s base is natural and simplistic with black and white being the most prominent colours. These colours are however, accented with flashes of gold and silver. The pieces are teamed with old school accessories such as legwarmers, fingerless gloves and hair bands. Although this collection is far simpler than the rest I have seen during Fashion week, the fabrics that have been used create a luxurious and fluid elegance. The collection is influenced by American sportswear designers such as Claire McCardell. These references have been reworked with British street styles like the bomber jacket and the trench coat. All in all, it would seem that the leg warmer may be creeping its way back into our lives shortly! HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Think fame, without the crazy hair or colour palette -Stick with blacks, whites and greys, with flashes of gold and silver -I’m sorry to say it, but... legwarmers!!! -Keep the hair tied back, scraped off the face with a plain hair band

BODY SHAPE: A WOMAN’S GUIDE

b y L a u r a G r a n t - E vans

Introduction D o y o u s ometimes lo o k i n t he mirror a n d f e e l that someth i n g i s not quite ri g h t w i t h your outfit ye t y o u j ust can’t p u t y o u r finger on w h a t i t i s? Y o u c o u l d be wearin g t h e most exp e n s i v e labels in

the world, but if t h e cuts, lengths an d styles are wrong f o r your body shape y o u could risk lookin g like a fake instea d o f a million dollars. Figuring out how to dress your bo d y shape can unlea s h a whole new wo r l d

Ath l e t i c

Apple

o f w a r d r o b e p o s s ibilities and we kind people here at Noir HQ have reduced it into a few simple steps: Get a friend to take a photo of you whilst you are wearing fitted clothes in a plain, neutral colour.

Pear

Print out the picture and cut around your figure and see which o f t h e f o l lo w i n g silhouettes fits your figure closely

Hourglass

If y o u f i nd you are the shape of any of t h e s e f i g u r e s b u t a r e l e s s t h a n 5 ’ 4 ” y o u a r e p e t i t e so y o u s hould follow the guidelines for t h i s s h a p e w i t h s o m e e x t r a height-enhancing tips!

Now turn o v e r f o r y o u r p e r s o n a l g u i d e t o d r e s s i n g y o u r b o d y shape…

SLIM ATHLETIC INTRO:

If you have a t r u l y a t h l e t i c b o d y , t h e n c o u n t y o u r s e l f l u c k y a s y o u have a wide r a n g e o f o p t i o n s w h e n i t c o m e s t o d r e s s i n g y o u r f i g u r e . The main aim o f y o u r c l o t h e s i s t o c r e a t e t h e i l l u s i o n o f s o m e c u r v e s . Any detailing , p r i n t s , r u c h e s , a c c e s s o r i e s o r f i t t e d c lo t h e s t h a t e nhance your w a i s t a r e a b o n u s .

S t r i py n a u tical skirt Horizontal stripes a d d w id t h t o a b o yish figure, yet this tube skirt shows off your lean, long legs.

Khaki leopard jumper

Wear bulky kn i t w e a r t o f a s h i o n s o m e c u r v e s .

Pink chiffo n d r e s s w i t h bulky bea d s

F e m i n ine chiffon dresses with flowing d e t a i l s a r e a must to give a girlish edge to a b o y i s h figure. Add a statement neck l a c e f o r d r ama!

K h a k i , c r o p p e d p ants.

These tapered trousers are ideal for those endless pins and the pleats from the waist add the illusion of hips.

HOURGLASS INTRO:

H o u r g l a s s figures are envied all over th e w o r l d b u t c a n b e t r i c k y t o d r e s s c o rrectly. The emphasis of your w a r d r o b e s h o u l d b e o n y o u r ti n y w a i st and impressive cleavage. W h e n y o u â&#x20AC;&#x2122; v e m a s t e r e d t h i s , yo uâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; l l b e ready to show off your killer c u r v e s .

G rey blazer w i th belt

A d e e p V-neck is a m u s t o n a jacket w i t h 2 b uttons to e l o n g a t e that waist. Th r e e - q u arter length sl e e v e s f all at the w a i s t , s h owing off c u r v e s t o the max!

Black party dress Red pencil skirt.

The pencil skirt i s a must-have for an hourglass figure . I t shows off your b r i lliant bum and th e ruffles on this pa rticular one draw t h e eye up toward t h e tiny waist.

W rap dress

Th e m a g ic wrap dress works perfectly t o e l o n g a t e a short waist and lift that che s t . Ke e p t h e print mid-sized to leave the fo c u s o n y o u r figure and not the dress.

The dress works wonders for you hourglass girlies as it combines all the best bits: a deep V-neck, a sexy pencil skirt and ruffled sleeves to contrast with the tiny waist.

PEAR INTRO:

The classic E n g l i s h p e a r s h a p e d w h e n d r e s s e d c o r r e c t l y c a n s h o w off all that’s b e a u t i f u l a b o u t u s B r i t i s h l a d i e s . T h e g o a l h e r e i s t o balance out t h e b o t t o m - h e a v y f i g u r e a n d d r a w t h e e y e u p w a r d t o beautifully sli m a r m s a n d a n e n v i a b l e f l a t s t o m a c h .

W e dge s h o es

High wedge shoes are a must for any pear shaped lady. They work wonders on bulky thighs and g i v e t h a t a l l - i m p o rtant streamlining effect.

Burberry M a c

W e a r i ng a jacket at this length and o p e n w i l l s l i ce your thighs in half and hide a n y s a d d l ebags lurking on your bottom h a l f .

Levis jeans

These wide le g beauties will s m o o t h out larger leg s a n d the length wi l l c r eate longer leg s , which inevita b l y equals slimme r l e g s . Genius!

Vintage 50s dress

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The defined waist shows off just how tiny this part of any ‘pear’ girl can be and the full skirt covers any bumpy areas.

APPLE INTRO:

A p p l e s haped ladies have notoriously a m a z i n g l e g s s o e m b r a c e th o s e p i ns by raisin g hemlines and reign i n t h o s e s t u b b o r n s t o m a c h s b y c r e a t ing waists with deep waistband s a n d d a r k c o l o u r s .

B l ack blaze r w i th red bel t . Ta i l o r e d jackets are a m u s t with a shal lo w V t o draw attenti o n a w a y from the st o m a c h and crea t e a h i gher waist. Sc u l p t e d loveliness!

Maxi dress

This empire line cut works beautifully on apple shaped girlies as it focuses on great arms and hides that problematic stomach area.

F airy skirt

T h e d e e p waistband o n t h i s s kirt hides t h e s t o mach and t h e r u f f l i ng comes o u t b e n eath the w a i s t t o add pro p o r t i o n to the figu r e a n d simulate a waist.

Navy A-line dress

The length of this dress shows off those delectable pins and the cut skims those bumpy bits to perfection.

PETITE I NTRO:

T h e y s ay all good things come in sma l l p a c k a g e s a n d w h e n i t c o m e s t o f i g u res, they are absolutely right! P e t i t e l a d i e s u s u a l l y h a v e s l i m f r a m e s regardless of which body shap e c a t e g o r y t h e y f a l l i n t o , s o t h e m a i n f ocus is on elongating, elongati n g , e l o n g a t i n g !

Pink brogues

Neutral shoes lengthen the whole figure and these great brogues are perfect for day or night with their cheeky heel to add height in the most casual way!

Y ellow poo d l e j a c k e t

T h i s c r opped jacket will fall on the wa i s t , c r e a t i ng the illusion of a longer torso. S m a l l p a t t e r ns that have a vertical line help t h i s i m m e n sely.

e a r r ings

Long earrings worn with hair up create necks with swan-like proportions.

Black, skin n y j e a n s

T h e s e skinny black jeans taper before t h e y t o u c h the floor and teamed with skys c r a p e r h e e l s , they will make any petite girl fe e l o n t o p o f the world.

N a v y , h i g h - w a i s t e d shorts

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Bottom skimming shorts create longer legs and dark neutrals give a slimming effect.

Spring/S Spring/Summer ummer 2011 2011 Trends: Trends: The The Essential Essential H How ow To To

erdem

W h at: White W h ere: Antonio Ber a r di, Erdem, Amand a Wakeley, Betty J a ckson, Clements R i b eiro, Julien Mac D o nald, Jaeger Lond o n, David Koma, H o l ly Fulton. H o w To: Play around w i t h lace to achieve E r dem’s romantic l o o k or mix it up with t o ugher more archit e ctural pieces – the

B y Sarah Mallon What: Underwear as Outerwear Where: Marios Schwab, Peter Pilotto, PPQ, David Koma, Hannah Marshall, Jaeger London, Mark Fast, Richard Nicoll. How To: Keep this look on the right side of suggestive by looking out for subtle corset shapes and elegant lace. Sheer panels and slits used in moderation can also create this look.

MARK FAST

holly fulton

W h a t: Neon W h e re: Christopher K a n e, Burberry Prors u m , Antonio Berardi, B e t t y Jackson, Marios S c h wab, PPQ, Julien M a c Donald, Mark Fast, H o l l y Fulton. H o w To: For a t asteful n o d to this trend, add a c o lour-pop clutch or n e o n heels to your summ e r wardrobe. For the m o r e daring, choose t w o completely clash i n g colours such as o r a n ge and pink – the o n l y accessories you’ll n e e d is the attitude to c a r r y it off.

What: Mix and Match Where: Basso and Brooke, Clements Ribeiro, Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Topshop Unique, Giles, Corrie Nielsen for Fashion Fringe. How To: Make your wardrobe quirky and fun for the coming season by mixing contrasting prints, such as floral with animal p r i n t o r e v e n c o mbine different textures such as leather and cashmere.

erdem

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What: Opulence Where: Amanda Wakeley, House of Holland, Peter Pilotto, Issa London. How To : Splash out on expensive looking embellish ments such as gladiator jewellery, Egyptian neck pieces and complete the look with an oriental obi belt. For a stunning evening look, go for a flowing draped gown in a Grecian style which can flatter any shape.

Amanda Wakeley

prophetik M atthew

W illiamson

W h at: 70s W h ere: Clements Ribeiro, B a s so & Brook e, Issa, Matt h e w Williamson, Felder F e l der. H o w To: Take your neon a c cessories one step furt h e r by going disco 70s, c o mplete with platforms a n d sequins â&#x20AC;&#x201C; forget less is m o re, this trend is fearless. B u t if you would rather m a ke a quiet statement, l o o k to more boho-inspired p i e ces with fringing, tassels a n d peasant blouses.

O sman

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What: Trousers W h e r e : G i l e s , V i v ienne Westwood, F a s h i o n F r i n g e , R omeo Pires, Antonio Berardi. How To: Several designers have d e c i d e d t o r e i nterpret the harem p a n t a s a n a l t e rnative to the 70s flares with a low slung waist and low c r o t c h . Wh i l e n o t the most flattering t r e n d , l o ok o u t f o r styles which have a slim leg meaning you can chanel this look without looking frumpy.

8. What: The Maxi W h e r e : M a t t h e w W i l l i a mson, Acne, Osman, Erdem, Jena Theo, Antonio Berardi. H o w T o : I f y o u a r e n â&#x20AC;&#x2122; t a lready addicted to maxi dresses and skirts, you will be by next season. Be it printed or block colour, the maxi dress needs few a c c e s s o r i e s t o b e s u cc e s s f u l a n d p e r f o r m s p e rfectly both day and night. Choose a darker coloured background with a bright print for the most flattering effect.

SOMERSE T HOUSE EXHIBTION

-PIERS ATKINSON -BOLONGARO TRE VOR -LIN ART PROJEC T -BARK-MIWAKO YOSHIOK A - CHARLOT TE SPARE -R AE JONES -JACEY WITHERS -FINSK -YANG DU -STEPHEN JONES -JANE C ARR -PAOLITA - ORIA - GEORGINA GOODMAN -ZOE AND MORGAN

THE EXHIBITIONS:

Somerset House by Laura Grant Evans

W i t h t h e w o r d s o f C l e m e n t R i b e r o i n m y h e a d , “ L o n d o n F a s h i o n W e e k a t S o merset House encapsulates fashionable London,” I trotted along to all of the exhibitions surrounding the hub of the registration area at Somerset House, full of anticipation and wondering what delights I would find. Tragically, I found a r a t h e r l a c k l u s t r e a r r a y o f c o l l e c t i o n s . T h e r e w e r e , o f c o u r s e , t h e e x c e ptions with beautiful displays and original ideas for use of space (Piers Atkinson, ahem!), but for the most part, accessories laid on a table, with a haughty teenage PR looking you up and down was the order of the day. Having said that, there were some excellent exhibitors and some friendly, helpful designers w h o w e r e w i l l i n g t o r e v e a l a l l a b o u t t h e i r c o l l e c t i o n s . I t i s t h e s e f a s h i o n - l o v elies that I will be showcasing in the following pages.

PIERS ATKINSON He was one of the first exhibitors to be seen as I walked into the underbelly of Somerset House and what a feast for the eyes. The collection, aptly named, ‘La Belle Au Bois’ comprises Atkinson’s trademark sense of humour with an explosion of colour. Described by the designer as, ‘The Garden of Eden given a Clapham Common

make-over’, the hats are taking the fashion world by storm and it’s not difficult to see why. A great deal of effort had gone into the exhibition and it emitted a glam garden party feel, with copious oversized flowers and finally, a hint of the east with cherry blossom. A beautiful collection displayed in a rousing exhibition.

BOL O N G A R O T R E VOR This wonderful Victoriana-inspired collection had transformed their exhibition stand into a vintage dressing-up box. Bolongaro Trevor has become a recent hit with the fashionistas of the East End and I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to delve far into the luxurious laces, leathers and soft suedes on offer to find out why. Clean shapes on jackets mixed with willowy dresses provide a brilliant contrast so reminiscent of the Victorian era. As this theme seems to have had every last drop eked out of it recently, I was looking for something that made it protrude from the crowd. My searching was short-lived as the jungle prints inspired by the Zoological society of London, founded during the Victorian era, made this collection fresh and unique. A real treat amongst the sea of camel and pastels.

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LIN A R T P R O J E C T T h e L i n A r t P r o j e c t a nnounced themselves by adorning their back wall with some o f t h e c r e a t u r e s f e at u r e d o n t h e i r b e a u t iful scarves and readyto-wear collection. T h e d e s i g n e r , C a r oline Beeser promises extraordinary, hand embroidered pieces and they didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t disappoint. The sequined scarves with quirky designs of cartoon-esque creatures are fun and jungle-inspired yet totally wearable. The use of designs by eclectic Argentinean a r t i s t , C h r i s t i a n M o n t enegro, take the brand to a higher level of sophistication whilst retaining their mantra to be different from any other brand out t h e r e . T h i s t h e y c e rtainly achieve.

B ARK-MIWAKO YOSHIOKA Wandering further into the exhibition, I came across a set of jewellery displayed brilliant ly on vintage sheet music and ancient mannequins, giving it a quintessentially Brit ish feeling. The long, delicate necklace chains held a myriad of crowns, which gives the collection a nostalgic air yet it retains a modern sense and

would not lo o k o u t o f place at a g l a m c o c ktail party. A p a r t i c u l a r favourite fo r m e w a s a pair of earri n g s w i t h a wolf creepin g o f f t h e bottom of a d a n g l i n g chain, whic h a r e a v a i lable in gold a n d s i l v e r . Jewellery p e r f e c t f o r bringing a b l a c k v i ntage shift d r e s s b a n g up to date. L o v e l y stuff.

CHARLOTTE SPARE This collection of bespoke dresses was a colourful break from the mostly muted tones of other exhibitors. The designer, Charlotte, described the unique concept behind her brand where styles are avail able in between 64 and 149 different prints and colours, meaning each customer can design their own dress, according to taste. The print which first attracted me was two skulls held in a heart; a design inspired by the thought

of being i n s i d e â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; a n imagina r y w o r l d t h a t is your v e r y o w n . â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Each de s i g n w o u l d definite l y a p p e a l t o a slightly d i f f e r e n t p e rson and I w a s s t r u c k by the id e a t h a t t h i s really is a r e a d y - t o wear co l l e c t i o n a s any wom a n , w i t h a n y taste an d o f a n y s i z e could fin d s o m e t h i n g to suit h e r o w n p e rsonal ta s t e w i t h i n t h i s collectio n . T h i s h i t s m e as no m e a n f e a t i n this som e t i m e s m a rginalised i n d u s t r y .

RAE J O N E S Co n t i n u i n g m y f o r a y into t h e e x h i b i t i o n , I ca m e a c r o s s a n o t h er exh i b i t i o n r e m i n i s c e nt of ‘ t h e f o r m e r g l o r y yea r s ’ o f E n g l a n d . The i n t e r e s t i n g c o l o ur com b i n a t i o n s o n t h i s col l e c t i o n o f s h o e s an d b a g s i n s t a n t l y ca u g h t m y e y e a n d I saw a d i r e c t i n s p i r ation f r o m t h e 1 9 3 0 s . The e f f o r t t h a t h a d gon e i n t o t h e d i s p l a y of t h e p ie c e s p a i d off an d i t c re a t e d a t r u ly vin t a g e a i r . T h e s h o es, wh i l s t d e f i n i t e l y w e arabl e , w o u l d m a k e t he luc k y l a d y s l i p p i n g her fee t i n t o t h e m f e e l as t h o u g h s h e w e r e we a r i n g s o m e t h i n g esp e c i a ll y u n i q u e . The y w e r e a r e f r e s h i ng tak e o n t h e m y r i a d of bro g u e s a n d l o a f e r s tha t a r e g r a c i n g t h e fee t o f m o s t y o u n g fas h i o n i s t a s i n E n g l and at t h e mo m e n t . T o com p l i m e n t t h e m p erfec t l y , w a s a r a n g e of fun c t i o n a l y e t i n c r e dibly s t y l i s h h o l d a l l - s t yle ba g s , w h i c h c o u l d ea s i l y b e s l u n g o v e r one ’ s s h o u l d e r f o r a weekend away in the c o u n t r y . E q u a l l y , the s m a ll e r c l u t c h sty l e c o u l d b e t u c k ed und e r o n e ’ s v i n t a g ecla d a r m f o r c o c k t ails in t h e c i t y . O r i g i n a l pe r f e c t i o n .

JA C E Y W I T H E R S Having seen a lot of animals featuring in the different jewellery collections throughout the exhibition, Jacey Withers delivered a fresh take on the animal kingdom using mythology and mystical creatures as an inspiration. To add even more of a twist, ingenious, colourful semi-precious stones decorated these creatures, furthering the feeling of a magical collection. My particular favourite was a half-horse pendant, which showed the mystical inspiration perfectly but the chain on which it was â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;gallopingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; was made up of different links and beads, adding further edge to the beautiful piece.

FINS K lish e d b r a n d , F i n s k was on e o f t h e o n l y s h o e ex h i b i t o r s t h a t s t o o d ou t a m o n g s t t h e m any To p s h o p l o o k - a l i k e s. Th e r e w e r e b u r s t s o f co l o u r ; s o m e t h i n g wh i c h w a s o f t e n l a cking a m o n g s t t h e p ale hu e s o f m o s t S / S 1 1 co l l e c t i o n s w h i c h we r e i n s e r t e d t o r efle c t t h e m o v e m e n t

of a dancer. This theme of ballet training inspired the collection, meaning the leathers are soft with cleaner, more polished leather to give a contrast between soft and structured, which, in my opinion works like a dream. The more avant-garde shoes, such as this

turquoise in j e c t e d beauty, en c a p s u l a t e the label’s r e n o w n e d wooden we d g e t h a t i s cut below w h e r e t h e heel sits. Th e s h a p e o f the heel cre a t e s t h e notion of im a g e a n d space and c o n t r a r y t o what one m i g h t t h i n k at first sigh t , t h e s h o e remains co m p l e t e l y wearable. C o m f o r t and the ‘w o w ’ f a c t o r . Genius!

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YA N G D U After a sunny lunch break on the Somerset House terrace, I ventured into the Topshop/Newgen tent and was greeted with a colourful, humourous collection which, although outrageous, is completely wearable. The collection, titled ‘He is A Superman’ takes artistic inspiration from cartoon characters from Yang Du’s childhood such as Batman and Astroboy. Yang Du’s trademark oversized t-shirts have been reinvented both in shape and style as they are constructed from panelled jersey, however, they carry the same bright designs which have made the designer popular with celebrities such as Paloma Faith and Daisy Lowe. Yang Du’s obvious talent with knitwear is showcased in the fantastically mischievous animal masks worn as hats. Taking in this exhibition, my inner child resurfaced with a vengeance, yet these garments would look far from ridiculous on an adult. Playful originality at its best.

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STEP H E N J O N E S Bac k i n S o m e r s e t Hou s e I e n t e r e d t h e exh i b i t i o n o n c e a g a in and j u s t i n s i d e t h e doo r , o n t h e e d g e o f the h u s t l e a n d b u s t l e of t h e r e g i s t r a t i o n are a , I f o u n d S t ephe n J o n e s m i l l i n e r y. Ste p h e n J o n e s w a s pro b a b l y t h e m o s t est a b l i s h e d d e s i g n e r exh i b i t i n g a t S o m e r s et Hou s e a n d h i s a r r a y of bea u t i f u l h a t s , w h i c h hav e b e e n d e s c r i b e d as e r a - d e f i n i n g , w e r e bre a t h t a k i n g . T h e r e is d e f i n i t e l y i n s p i r a tion d r a w n f r o m e r a s pas s e d b u t J o n e s see m s t o b r i n g e a c h pie c e r i g h t i n t o t h e pre s e n t , c a p t u r i n g t he fas h i o n m o o d p r e c i sely a t t h a t p a r t i c u l a r mo m e n t . O n e p a r t i c ular b e a u t y ( p i c t u r e d) sho w c a s e s t h e s h e e r cre a t i v e g e n i u s t h a t is Ste p h e n J o n e s , a h at tha t w o u l d b e a t h o me bei n g p a r a d e d o n t he run w a y o r w o r n b y roy a l t y . J o n e s â&#x20AC;&#x2122; l o n g list of c l i e n t s , f r o m L a d y Di to B e y o n c e , p a y t e s timo n y t o t h i s .

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JA N E C A R R Burrowing further into the exhibition, I came across a unique set of scarves entitled, ‘I Was Lost…’ A collection of vivid colours such as, denim, steel, khaki and nougat blended with a variety of fabrics show off the festival Americana theme. There are five different styles of scarf available in

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some tantalising prints. A stand-out option is The Carré in the Route 66 design. Hot pink in colour brandished with the classic motif, it is easy to transport oneself directly to a long roadtrip through rural America, looking effortlessly stylish along the way.

PAO L I T A

Am o n g s t t h e c o u n t l ess ac c e s s o r i e s , P a o l i t a â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vib r a n t , b e a u t i f u l l i nge r i e a n d s w i m w e a r col l e c t i o n s t o o d o u t pro m i n e n t l y . T h e d esig n e r , A n n a P a o l a , site s h e r l a t e s t c o l l e ction a s e x a c t l y w h a t wo m e n f e e l c o m f o r tab l e i n . W o m e n o f all w a l k s o f l i f e w e r e inte r v i e w e d a b o u t wh a t m a k e s t h e m f eel

confident in themselves at the beach, a place where a m ajority of females feel at their most exposed. As a result, shapes and lines that comple ment the female figure are in abundance. The one-piece swimming costumes have an elongating central panel yet the fun, flirty patterns and colours

keep the pieces sexy without even a hint of those dreadful, holdin swimsuits. The aptly named, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;minikiniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; has a cute ruffle on the bottoms, adding a cheeky edge to the traditional bikini, as well as subtly covering the top of the leg, a part of the body most of us dread exposing on our hard-earned

annual holid a y s . T h i s exciting yet c o m p l e t ely functiona l c o l l e c t i o n transcends a g e t o p r ovide quality g a r m e n t s to real wom e n .

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ORIA In the sweltering fair trade room upstairs, Tania Kowalski and Synnove Saelthunâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ethical jewellery line showed a playfulness that conjures up images of delicate spring days and the enchantment of new life in the wild. The love birds perched on cherry blossom branches encased in silver pendants are effortless and would be at home accessorising the delicate hues of next Spring. Breathtaking.

GEO R G I N A G O O DMAN ‘Ad v e n t u r e s i n L u c i d Tho u g h t ’ b r o u g h t a noth e r f a n t a s t i c s h o e col l e c t i o n f r o m t h e estab l i s h e d d e s i g n e r and it’s e a s y t o s e e w h y her s h o e s h a v e g r a ced the f e e t o f f a s h i o n i stas u p a n d d o w n t h e lan d . T h e o b l i g a t o r y sof t h u e s f o r S p r i n g / Sum m e r 2 0 1 1 a r e i nter s p e r s e d w i t h s h o t s of h o t p in k a n d y e llow , g i v i n g a n e x c i t i ng twi s t t o t h e s e b e a u t iful cre a t i o n s . T h e i n s p i r ation o f l o v e i s e v i d e nt thr o u g h o u t a n d b o l dly bra n d i s h e d o n a f e w pa i r s o f t h e s e d i v i n e sho e s . A d o r n e d w i t h cry s t a l s , t h e s e a r e t he ulti m a t e p a r t y s h o e for the s o p h i s t i c a t e d , f unlov i n g w o m a n .

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ZOE AND MORGAN

What firs t a t t r a c t e d me to ‘Th e U n u s u a l Suspects ’ e x h i b i t i o n of statem e n t p i e c e s was the b a c k w a l l , adorned w i t h m u gshots of ‘ c r i m i n a l s ’ wearing t h e i r j e w e llery. Afte r s u c h a promise o f b r i l l i a n c e , would I b e d i s a p p o i n ted with t h e p r o d u c t ? Indeed I w a s n ’ t . T h e signature r o c k a n d r o l l edge ass o c i a t e d w i t h the bran d h a s b e e n reinvente d t o i n c l u d e Mala cha i n s , i n s p i r e d by Buddh i s t p r a y e r beads an d ‘ T h e N e w Geometr i c s ’ , s t r i king gold i n w o n d e r f u l geometri c l i n e s . T h e s e fresh dive r s i o n s h a v e set this b r a n d u p w i t h a crimina l l y g o r g e o u s collectio n .

ON/OFF AND VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT EXHIBITIONS by Ma r i o n S a u v e b o i s

-BROOKE ROBERTS -Z AR A GORMAN -L AUR A THEISS -JAYNE PIERSON -KIRST Y WARD -FR ANCES CONTEH -AASE HOPSTOCK

BR O O K E R O B E R T S BROOKE ROBERTS ‘Elongated spots on knitted dresses’ is one, albeit imperfect, way of describing Australian-born Brooke Roberts’ Spring/Summer 2011 collection. The purple and white dress sported by a mannequin in her exhibition space intrigued me greatly as its motif seemed both familiar and alien. I came back two days in a row just to meet the evanescent Ms Roberts who was never anywhere in sight when I came to Victoria House. I was ready to give up and simply resign myself not to write about the non-descript brushstrokes— after all, I had no way to describe them so what was the point— but finally opted for a diff e r e n t a n d m o r e d r a stic approach. I would wait for her to come back from her lunch break and corner her until the mystery was finally lifted. I know that, out of context, it might sound a bit excessive but it certainly was worth it. I certainly was not expecting her answer: “I actually used brain scans. Using medical imaging and CT scans seemed appropriate since I am a part-time radiographer.” The colour patches on her dresses and bodices are not just mimicking the shapes reflected on X-rays. They are real scan patterns programmed into an industrial knitting machine (in a warehouse in Italy!) and reproduced with yarn. “It takes time to get

such a result. The different types of coloured yarn look superimposed on each other but actually the garments are all knitted in one piece. It’s all about programming and making sure the shapes will work with the chosen yarns. It can take up to a week to make it all work.” The result is breathtaking and the warm shades of purple, electric blue and beige make for incredible designs. Roberts studied pattern cutting at St Martins after finishing a Science degree. Spotted by designer Louise Golden, who introduced her to the technicalities of this very singular way of producing knitwear, she never planned to be a fashion designer and even after three years working with Golden in Italy, she decided to return to pattern-cutting. “It is just one day, at the hospital, looking at a brain scan that I thought: ‘this is beautiful, I have to recreate this somehow’. I knew straightaway that the best way to do it would be through knitwear.” A radiographer/accidental fashion designer exhibiting at London Fashion Week: I think now I have seen it all.

Z AR A G O R M A N Have you ever wondered what My Fair Lady’s famous hats would look like if instead of silk, crepe or lace, they were made out of wood? I would be lying if I said that this nebulous and highly inventive idea had ever crossed my mind. So entering the busy exhibition hall in Victoria House

my eyes were immediately drawn to just that: wooden hats. “Some of them are made of plastic actually and others are a combination of wood and leather,” milliner Zara Gorman told me after seeing me standing rudely close to her most impressive piece, an oversized wooden summer

hat reminiscent of an ancient Mayan temple. I bite my tongue after realising I have made this comment out loud. Comparing someone’s hat collection to a building is not only ill-advised, it is just plain stupid. After a few seconds, Ms Gorman breaks the silence with a smile. “Actually my

inspiration comes from architecture and the facade of buildings.” Phewww. “I guess my work is similar to an architect’s since it is very conceptual.” Lazer-cut, sanded or pierced with a drill, they are the result of a meticulous knowledge of carpentry. Yet they are also comfortable to wear and the part designed to rest on the one’s head is made of soft, smooth leather. The most intriguing piece was Gorman’s ‘angelwing hat that holds itself’ or in more simple terms, a chin hat. Pushing the limits of millinery is Gorman’s speciality and her surprisingly flattering face-embracing hat, as strange as it may sound, sold the new upturned look to me.

LAURA THEISS Inspired by tradi tional eastern European costumes, outer space and legends about crop circles, Laura Theiss’s col lection made for an interesting viewing. Stunning knitted silver tunics with a dis tinctive ‘alien’ feel complimented with multicoloured pompons cohabited with crocheted folk ribbon bell-shaped dresses. ‘I love playing with clothes, telling a story through the colour scheme or the yarn I use. This season I have actually woven real silver thread into the knitted jumper to give a Martian ef fect. I am inspired by

storytelling a n d a l w a y s have been; i t t r a n slates throug h t h e g a rments,’ said T h e i s s . ‘ I decided to m i x d i f f e rent legends a n d t r aditions toge t h e r a n d see what w o u l d h a ppen. I think f a s h i o n i s a constant m o v e m e n t forward. If a d e s i g n e r is inspired b y 7 0 s s t y l e or 30s cuts, h e n e e d s to do somet h i n g n e w with the old , a n d revolutionis e h i s f i e l d one way or a n o t h e r . ’ Theatrical, i n v e n t i v e and ‘otherw o r l d l y ’ , this collecti o n ’ s a r r a y of vibrant c o l o u r s a n d singular silh o u e t t e s was a feast f o r t h e eye. Laura T h e i s s i s one to watc h .

JA Y N E P I E R S O N At the age of 30, W e l s h - b o r n J a y n e Piers o n g a v e u p a c areer i n m u s i c t o f o l l o w in h e r d e s i g n e r m o ther’s f o o t s t e p s . A l m o s t ten y e a r s o n , a f t e r maki n g a n a m e f o r h erself w i t h h e r c o o l , t r endy and rock-inspired c o l l e c t i o n s , h e r l ong c a t a l o g u e o f c e l ebrity c u s t o m e r s i n c l u des F l o r e n c e W e l s h , Bat for L a s h e s , L a R o u x and K T T u n s t a l l . E v e n Anna W i n t o u r s t o p p e d by t h e O N / O F F e x h i bition h a l l , f o l l o w e d b y an a r m y o f s e r i o u s - l ooking m e n i n s u i t s , j u s t to get a p e e k o f t h e c ollect i o n e v e r y o n e i s talki n g a b o u t . “ I d i d not r e a l l y g e t a c h a nce to s p e a k h e r a c t u a l ly,” c o n f e s s e d J a y n e. “ S h e h a d a l o o k at m y d e s i g n s a n d after I g a v e h e r a l o o k book t o l d m e t h a t s h e loved w h a t s h e s a w . ” Will the D e v i l d i t c h P r a d a for P i e r s o n ? O n l y t i me will t e l l . N o w f o r t h e coll e c t i o n w h i c h s w ayed t h e no t o r i o u s l y p icky e d i t o r o f U S V o g ue. “I w a s i n s p i r e d b y time t r a v e l a n d t h e T win P a r a ll e l , ” e x p l a i ned t h e d e s i g n e r . “ I t is the i d e a t h a t i f w e t r ave l l e d b a c k i n t i me, o u r a c t i o n s i n t h e past w o u l d c h a n g e t he f u t u r e , o u r p r e s e nt. I l i k e t o i m a g i n e what m i g h t h a v e b e e n.” Rei n v e n t e d N a p o l e onic m i l i t a r y j a c k e t s with s t a t e m e n t s h o u l ders, f o i l e d e i g h t e e n t h-cent u r y c o u r t e s a n s hirts a n d f u t u r i s t i c G eorg i a n g a r m e n t s , her c r e a t i o n s w e r e s i mult a n e o u s l y c o n t e mpor a r y a n d f r o m a nother t i m e . T h e s t a n d o ut o u t f i t w a s u n d o u bte d l y a b l u e a n d gold

striped Victor ian-in spired bodice bur geoning arou nd the hips complimented by a straight floor length electric blue skirt. Pierson made her stance clear: “I try to avoid trend as much as possible. Reinvent ing shapes and silhou ettes is so much more exciting.” Infusing old styles with a playful glam-rock edge was a bold move but boy did she deliver!

KIRS T Y W A R D Ha v i n g r e a d — y e s , I ha d d o n e m y h o m ewo r k — t ha t K i r s t y Wa r d ’ s d e b u t c o llec t i o n w a s i n s p i r e d by 1 9 8 0 s b a d t a s t e an d t a c k y C h r i s t m a s dec o r a t i o n s , I w a s exp e c t i n g a r e d a n d wh i t e c o l o u r p a l e t t e wit h h i n t s o f g r e e n an d k i t s c h y e t t a s t e ful

tinsel-like collars and cuffs. So imagine my surprise when I was faced with what I can only describe as the complete opposite of kitsch: sophisticated sheer silk tops and layered wax cotton dresses all embroi dered with brass jew ellery. “I am a bit of

a minimalist and I like simple cuts and basic shapes,” confessed Ward. Upon closer examination, traces of tinsel and ‘tacky dec orations’ were found in the shape of a curtain of silver lametta on a structured peach vest. The highlights of the collection were of

course War d ’ s s i g n ature metal j e w e l s — s h e designed a j e w e l l e r y line for Dav i d L o n gshaw’s AW 1 0 c o l l e ction last yea r — w h i c h added a pl a y f u l t o u c h to her stylish a n d highly unusu a l g a rments. “The j e w e l l e r y is actually d e t a c h able so it c a n b e w o r n on its own o r p a i r e d with anothe r o n e o f my dresses. I r e a l l y wanted the w e a r e r to be able t o i n t e r a c t with the clo t h e s . P l u s , I love the jin g l y n o i s e the necklac e s m a k e . It’s very sen s u a l , i n a way.” Desp i t e i t s d i s tinct lack o f m e t a l e mbellishment s , t h e i t e m which really c a u g h t my eye was a s a l m o n boned skirt. R e m i n i scent of a p e r i o d h o o p underskirt, t h i s l a y e r e d piece was s i m p l y a s tonishing. K i r s t y W a r d ’ s was by far m y f a v o urite Spring/S u m m e r collection a t F a s h i o n Week this ye a r .

FR A N C E S C O N T EH Subverting classical knit styles is Frances Conteh’s self-appointed mission. Zigzag motifs on dresses, acid pink and green bubble-shape skirts, lilac mohair cardigans and zipped jumpers sporting multicoloured lozenges reminiscent of Harlequin’s most carnivalesque costumes, this is, in a nutshell, what Conteh’s collection had to offer. Her hypnotic geometrical patterns, worthy of the most talented illusionist, and vibrant colours won me over instantly. Intricate, her layered creations combined a mixture of delicate yarns incredibly soft to the touch. Inspired by Kandinsky and the Bauhaus movement, she

decided to incorporate the painter’s sharp lines into her woolly designs back when she was studying at the RCA (she only just graduated). It worked and her geometrical exploration of patterns and motifs gradually extended to the shape of the clothes themselves. Bubbly, playful and, dare I say, psychedelic, her comfortable and cosy Spring/ Summer collection was a feast for the eye. Her thick egg-shaped skirts were the most eyecatching items and I could already picture myself sporting one of these little beauties paired with one of her mohair cardigans. Let us hope for a chilly summer.

AAS E H O P S T O C K Hid d e n i n t h e s h a d owy co r n e r o f a d i m l y l i t roo m , A a s e H o p s t o ck’s sho e g a l o r e w a s a n ea s y o n e t o m i s s . Dis p l a y i n g s h o e s a n d ac c e s s o r i e s i n a d a rk roo m . . . o n p u r p o s e ? Ill- a d v i s e d d e c i s i o n or str o k e o f g e n i u s ? — after a l l , t h i s s t r a n g e set up d i d m a k e f o r a drama t i c s p e c t a c l e . I will let y o u , d e a r r e a d e r, be t h e j u d g e o f t h a t. All t h a t I c a n s a y i s tha t , s t u m b l i n g u p o n thi s c a r n i v a l e s q u e collec t i o n , I w a s s u d d enly tha n k i n g t h e g o d s for m y d i r e c t i o n a l l y ch a l l e n g e d d i s p o s i tio n . M a r i e A n t o i n e tte me e t s t h e V e n i c e Ca r n i v a l w a s t h e b est wa y t o d e s c r i b e t h e ple t h o r a o f s h o e s d i spla y e d i n f r o n t o f m e. Gr e e n l a c e - u p l e a t her co u r t s w i t h s n a k e - s kin de t a i l i n g , c u t o u t L ouis VI- i n s p i r e d h i g h h e els co m p l i m e n t e d b y a bo w a t t h e b a c k o r pe e p t o e s w i t h a s atin

heel: the collecti on was stylish, playful and refreshingly new. If the colours and shapes were reminiscent of eighteenth-century fashion, the addition of ankle straps, laces and buckles gave

these alluring shoes a distinctly modern feel. ‘Comfort’, the designer’s motto, was very obviously a key concern and the theatrical footwear’s soft leather promised to make each step

easy on the t o e s . L e s s eccentric it e m s w e r e also availab l e s u c h a s a pair of bla c k p e e p toes sportin g a s a t i n bow or whit e p e a r l i z e d courts. Com f o r t a n d style, what e l s e c o u l d you ask for?

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SHENZHEN EXHIBITIONS AT VAUXHALL FASHION by Marion Sauvebois

F o r a f e w h o u r s o n l y , a t t h i s y e a r ’ s F a s h i o n W e e k , V a u x h a l l F a s hion Scout was colonised by the Far East. Entering the venue was a c u l t u r a l s h o c k . T h e S h e n z h e n d e s i g n e r s h a d m a n a g e d t h e i mpossible: recreating a piece of China in the middle of London. From the characteristic tones of Asian melodies playing in the background to the little marquees planted all around the room to host the Shenzhen creators’ handiwork, the Freemason’s Hall was unrecognisable. Armed with my very basic knowledge of C h i n e s e , I b r a v e d t h e c r o w d a n d m a d e m y w a y t o t h e e x h i b ition area. After a few mispronounced Ni Haos, I was relieved to discover that a peaceful battalion of English-speaking Chinese PRs had been posted all around the place ready to pounce on the bemused spectator. Going from marquee to marquee, I was struck by the unbelievably diverse regalia of collections. Traditional silk garbs were placed alongside markedly modern ethical fashion pieces whilst minimalist monochrome garments cohabited with Indian-inspired multicoloured cocktail dresses. If some of the lines were a bit too ‘high school prom’ to my taste and, I suspect, to many western guests, the sheer number of them was going to make for an interesting and busy evening. One collection, by fashion label Ground Show, particularly stood out and, judging by the number of people crammed under the minuscule tent, I was not alone in thinking so. So here are the ones which made the cut.

ZAIN

A W A KENING

Minimalist chic is back in full force with Zain’s Zen Spring/Summer collection. Comprised of monochrome silk and cotton dresses and tunics, the line conveyed a rare simplicity while still remaining highly sophisticated and stylish. Navy, burgundy and beige dominated the limited colour palette as was appropriate to a collection inspired by Zen philosophy. “Soothing colours are central to this philosophy,’ a Shenzhen PR immediately told me as I entered the minuscule tent. ‘The emphasis with this line was on comfort and practicality. The point was to use simple shapes to show infinite images.”

“Awakening tries to combine green fashion and ethical living,” one of the brand’s representatives ex plained. The label’s chosen name itself sums up HuanJue Gar ment Co.’s project : to awaken indivi duals to the gravity of global warming and the state of our planet.

Equally suited for a casual day at work or an evening out, these garments reminded me of Comptoir des Cotonniers’ smart-casual signature look.

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All the garments (dresses only) were themed and made to represent a particular environmental or ethical issue. A stunning turquoise net dress or ‘Sea Dress’—so deli cately put together that the net h ad more of an organza quality— was displayed in the middle of the tent next to a white flowing cocktail d ress or ‘Endangered species dress’, with a large Dolphin print cleverly hidden in its folds. But the standout piece was undoubtedly a glacier white garment or ‘Ice dress’ designed to raise awareness of the alarmingly condition of a fast-dis appearing ice cap. Complimented with a printed warning sewn right in the mi ddle of it, the dress, more than any other, brought the apocalyptic feel of this collection home informing the wearer, in Mandarin, that the world will end in 2012. Awakening reached new heights in fashion activism with this astonishing concept. The refusal to use nonrecycled fabrics or unethical materials, such as silk—“we think that the way silkworms are treated to produce

this textile is horrific and a breach of animal rights”— meant that the label had to get creative. “Finding fabrics that look as beautiful as or even better than the real thing is a daily chal lenge but this is the only way to produce truly green fashion. We use alternative production processes as well to reduce our carbon print emission as much as possible.” The label’s elegant and highly unusual garments were a hit at the Shenzhen exhibition and looking at their ocean blue waterfall dress, it is easy to understand why. GROUND SHOW COLOURS! The bright yellows, deep purples and acid pinks knit ted into cosy oversized jumpers and long tunics caught the guest’s attention straightaway in the exhibition hall.

Strategic a l l y p l a c e d between t w o t e n t s housing w o r k s o f t h e dreaded ‘ h i g h s c h o o l prom’ d e s c r i p t i o n — bland, c o l o u r l e s s and, if I m a y s a y s o , far from t h e s t a n d a r d expecte d a t a F a s h i o n Week ev e n t — G r o u n d Show’s p l a y f u l k n i twear an d w a r m c olours cer t a i n l y s h o n e . Having s a i d t h a t , t h e genius b e h i n d t h e label cle a r l y w a s n o t hoping f o r a h o t s u mmer sea s o n a s h e devised t h i s c o l l e ction. If th e c o l o u r s looked w a r m s o d i d the long - s l e e v e d harlequi n s w e a t e r s and turt l e n e c k t u n i c s . Indeed, t h e s e w o o l l e n treasure s s c r e a m e d more ‘Le t i t s n o w ’ t h a n ‘Let the s u n s h i n e i n ! ’ Reflectin g o n t h i s , i t dawned o n m e t h a t unfortun a t e l y , o n t h i s rainy isla n d o f o u r s , these we r e p r o b a b l y the kind o f c l o t h e s we woul d a l l e n d u p wearing i n t h e m i d d l e if June; s o i n a s e n s e ,

it w a s p re t t y g o o d thin k i n g o n t h e C h ine s e d e s i g n e r â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s p a r t. Ins p i r e d b y n a t u r e , a rec u r r i n g t h e m e i n t he exh i b i t i o n a n d , I w a s be g i n n i n g t o s u s p e ct, in C h i n e s e c u l t u r e , flo r a l e m b r o i d e r i e s ma d e t h e b o d y o f t he col l e c t i o n . D e l i c a t e flo w e r s a n d b e a u t iful l y d e t a i l e d v e geta t i o n o r n a m e n t e d mo s t t u n i c s r e m i n d i ng the o n l o o k e r o f p o s timp r e s s i o n i s t p a i n ting s . V i b r a n t c o l o u r s, ori g i n a l m o t i f s , f l a t t ering s h a p e s a n d h i g hly we a r a b l e d e s i g n s , t his wa s f a s h i o n a t i t s b est.

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LONDON FASHI O N W E E K E N D BY: Jess Shepherd

Picture the scene: I’m on Waterloo Bridge, my hair be ing whipped into the kind of birds’ nest that not even Tresemme Freeze Hold hairspray can achieve and desp erately trying to wrap myself even more deeply into my garish leopard-print coat whilst digging around in my bag trying to find that slip of paper that tells me where I’m going. I’m not a Londoner (and, it turns out, not someone who can do ‘effortlessly windswept chic’) so I have no idea where Somerset House is. Suddenly, into my line of vision saunters a wonderfully stylish women in

a camel trench, black skinny jeans and flat ballet pumps – exactly the kind of person who might be headed to Somerset House on a day like today. I eagerly trot behind her, trying to keep a decent distance but keep her in sight. Unsurprisingly, she leads me to exactly where I need to be – the entrance to the London Fashion Weekend event – and even less surprisingly, she makes a far better entrance than I. The impressive Somerset House on the banks of the Thames plays host to London Fashion Weekend every September, which

is the Elle-sponsored, retail-focused, event held in conjunction with London Fashion Week. Billed as ‘es sential designer shopping’, over 100 stalls and pop-up shops appear throughout the cavernous halls and terraces of Somerset House featuring a whole host of London-based as well as international designers offering their wares at discounts of up to 70%. Egalitarian ism and equality were obviously important concepts to the event planners, with big names included Sass & Bide, Twenty8Twelve and Juicy Couture, right beside independent boutiques and

recent fashion college graduates. There were catwalks running throughout all three days of the Weekend, bringing a taste of the elite and hardto-access London Fashion Week into Somerse t House with labels such as Jaeger London and John Galliano contributing to displays showcasing the biggest trends for AW10. Art was supplied by local art access scheme ArtBeat, who aim to bring art to the masses by sourcing talented creatives from across the UK and selling them at pop-up shops and events such as London Fashion Week, and it was great to

see not only a creative perspective that went wider than fashion but a real sense of community awareness and promotion of local business and entrepreneurs. Continuing this theme of being open to all, tickets were freely available to buy on line in four different pricing tiers, ranging from the most affordable option allowing just entr ance to the event to the priciest, which bagged you a place at the catwalk and a show bag filled with goodies. The atmosphere was simply e lectric. I only managed to go on the Sunday, and I was worried that I might have missed all the best bits, but I couldn’t have been more wrong: groups of teenage girls cooing over sparkly piles of jewellery, mothers and daughters having makeovers in the Elizabeth Arden fre e Masterc lasses and dedicated shoppers rifling through rack after rack of clothes meant that the entire day was lively and bustling. Since it was the last day of the Weekend, many of the stallholders and designers had slashed the price of their pieces even further, so huge bargains were plentiful. It really was, in every sense of the word, an ‘even t’ – shopper s could boost their energy at Lavazza coffee bar, have something a little stronger at the Chambord champagne bar,

refuel at Tom’s Terrace restaurant, and even have their manicure retouched at the Superdrug and Bourjois nail bar. I decided to esc hew the more well-known brands such as Twenty8Twelve and instead seek out some hidden gems of the London design scene. I think it’s great that companies with perh aps just one store in London can get exposure at an event, such as this, that people travel from all over the country to attend; I certainly have found some brands that I’d never heard of before and that I feel sure will become firm fa vourites of mine. Nicholas King really stood out amongst the seemingly endless jewellery stalls at the Weekend, not least for his astonishingly bold and daring aesthetic. Ultra-chunky cuffs made from Perspex and studded with metal spher es and sequinned string jostled for attention alongside fluorescent bangles and knuckleduster style plastic

rings that would take someone’s eye out if you gesticulated too wildly whilst wearing one. This was statement jewellery at its best, the kind of accessories designed to transform a plain dress into something stunning. All the pieces are handmade in the UK, and would make a great investment to transform the rest of your wardrobe. Another stand-out jewellery collection came from Anna Lou of London, who specialises in bright and eye-catching kitsch pieces. Fun and feminine are the keywords here – my personal favourite was a heartshaped pendant, covered in red diamante with a keyhole cut out in the centre. Launched in 2004 by Anna Scaife, Anna Lou of London’s designs have been worn by celebrities such as Kate Moss and Emma Watson and featured at the ‘Glamour Woman of the Year Awards’ in 2006. Emi nently wearable and playful, yet really af fordable, I picked up a few of these pieces

as gifts for friends – they will be perfect. Maxi dresses are one of the biggest trends of 2010 so far, and it was a joy to see Ducie’s interpretation of the style at their popup shop. The designer, Ducie Keam-George, cites her main inspirations as her mother’s vintage clo thes and time spent living in Delhi, which resulted in a gorgeous collection of long, flowing dresses in the softest fabrics and the brightest block emeralds and sapphires with gold button embellishments. When I was in there, the queue for the changing room was seven people deep, which doesn’t surprise me in the slightest. The dresses were simple and classic yet deeply desirable and unusual – everything I think a dress should be! The stand-out shop for me was Olivia Rubin’s, a riot of colourful art deco prints in classic shapes and materi als. Olivia’s signature graphic prints are bold and fabulous and perfectly teamed

with feminine tailoring. The beauty of the designs is unsurprising, since Rubin has worked with John Galliano and Alexander McQueen since graduating from Central Saint Martinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. I had an amazingly fun day at London Fashion Weekend and would recommend it to anyone. As an opportunity to be exposed to new designers and brands, it is unrivalled. A few tips: take plenty of water and wear layers (it can get really hot in those galleries!), decide what you want to see before you get there by using the website, and be prepared to elbow your way around to see the best things. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll definitely be marking the date in my diary for next year! www.nicholasking.co.uk www.annalouoflondon.com www.ducie.co.uk www.oliviarubin.con

London Fashion Week Gives Sustainable Fashion the Green Light by Laura Smith There was once a time when ‘ecofashion’ was mainly associated with hemp and hippies, and seemed a far cry from catwalk gracing haute couture, yet with the presence of sustainable fashion more pronounced than ever before at London Fashion Week, and with the added support of high profile figures, it seems that the industry is slowly embracing its moral conscience. As green living becomes more in vogue, fashionistas are increasingly concerned with lowering their carbon footprint and making ethical choices when it comes to clothing, but in the world of ‘fast fashion’ where trends are constantly coming and going and the majority of high street products are mass-produced on the cheap, it’s often difficult to find labels that will make us look and feel every inch the green goddess. Sustainable fashion has predominantly been the domain of small, independent brands and designers but now, thanks to the efforts of pioneering and innovative initiatives, ethical fashion is looking to make the move from niche to mass market. During the last four years, London Fashion Week has been home to the Estethica exhibition, which acts as a platform for cutting edge designers committed to producing gorgeous, high-quality clothing in a sustainable and eco-friendly way. Founded by the British Fashion Council and sponsored by Monsoon, Estethica is now into its ninth season and currently hosts 37 designers, each selected for both their ethical credentials and design excellence. In fact, wandering around Estethica’s exhibition space located in an annex of Somerset House, the clothing, jewellery and accessories on display look as high quality and carefully crafted as anything else I’ve seen on the cat-

walks, proving that working in an eco-friendly and sustainable way doesn’t mean a sacrifice on style! The innovation displayed by these designers is both inventive and inspiring, as they ensure all aspects of production coincide with fair trade standards and that all materials are ethically produced. The upcycling of waste materials also plays a huge part in producing eco-friendly fashion lines, since an estimated 1.8 million tonnes of clothing and textiles go to landfill every year in the UK. Throughout the exhibition, I’m shown varying examples of upcycling, including dresses and jackets made from end of the line military uniforms and parachute materials, old horse jackets, Speedo swimsuits and discarded tents taken from festival sites, all lovingly reworked into gorgeous, wearable outfits. However, when it comes to producing these types of garments for the public en mass, using upcycled materials and factory floor off cuts presents a huge difficulty for the designers. Orsola de Castro, one of the designers behind the sustainable label ‘From Somewhere’ and co-curator of the Estethica exhibition agrees: “We began using off cuts but found this presented a difficulty to produce en masse, so now utilise what we call pre-consumer textiles; rolls of high quality materials that are abandoned by the bigger labels. We try to source the best materials, and in particular use rejected Italian menswear fabrics, so our output is both ethical and of an impeccably high quality.” Enthusiastic and optimistic about the future of sustainable fashion, Orsola says, “I’ve seen an enormous growth in this sector and Estethica has been key to been siphoning Ethical fashion into the

mainstream.” She adds, “As our young designers become more creative and our ethical production methods more relevant, Estethica is now becoming internationally recognised as a hotbed for new designers as well as new concepts in fashion, influencing the fashion industry from the inside. “In 1910 we ditched corsets and stiff collars and changed the way we dress forever, in 2010 there is another fashion revolution in the air, with Estethica as its spearhead!” While Estethica previously remained on the fringes of London Fashion Week, this year saw the first ever sustainable fashion show feature on the official schedule, giving ethical fashion labels equal status with internationally acclaimed designers like Burberry and Christopher Kane. Held in the grounds of Clarence House, smaller labels such as From Somewhere, Junky Styling, Henrietta Ludgate and People Tree – the label known for its collaborations with celebrities such as Emma Watson and Sienna Miller – shared the catwalk with established British designers Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood, who helped to further raise the event’s profile. The show underlines the British Fashion Council’s commitment to bringing sustainable fashion within its main umbrella, and while it was generally seen as a success, event stylist Chloe Kerman, who is also Fashion Editor of style magazine TANK, observed that ethical fashion still has some way to go before it achieves proper traction within the industry. “Sustainable fashion is very much in a transition,” she says, “as people begin to consider their social responsibility as consumers, designers are really starting to consider this philosophy as part of their process. The range of talent showcased here just goes to show how

stunning ethical clothing can be, in the end it has to be about great design and beautiful clothing!” Supermodel Erin O’Connor, who is vice-chairman of the British Fashion Council, and an inspirational ambassador for ethical fashion, took part in the catwalk and praised the importance London Fashion Week has placed on ethical and sustainable fashion. She said: “Merging style and conscience has never been so important and valued at London fashion week. I’m proud to walk the catwalk for designers who have crafted their talent and considered the true ethical values in the creative design process.” Erin’s own label, ‘She Died Of Beauty’, which she recently launched with co-designer Kate Halfpenny, was also part of the Estethica showcase. The cotton tees they design reflect the girl’s commitment to sustainable fashion, being organic and ethically made, but crucially, manufactured solely using sustainable energy generated from wind and solar power. As the pair say, “All of our T-shirts are ethically and organically sourced, as we want our precious customer to look good and feel good – after all, there’s no reason why style and conscience can’t co-exist!” It’s exactly this message that the people who are passionately involved in practising and promoting ethical and sustainable fashion are trying to get across to both consumers and the fashion industry at large. While their retail costs remain high, (as production costs for organic materials and ethical manufacturing procedures don’t come always cheap), designers hope that consumers will see their products as worthwhile investmenst, yet there is still a question over how the ethics of sustainable fashion can be translated to a mass market and how to achieve a crucial balance between ethical and economical success. For now, with events like London Fashion Week offering an international platform for ethical labels, and similar events being held in Paris and Milan, the importance

of eco-friendly fashion is at least being brought to the public’s attention; showing that sustainability and style can happily coincide. So, is green set to become the new black? We’ll need to wait to see, but personally, I really hope it is! Think about it; a gorgeous wardrobe and a clear conscience … what more could a girl (or boy) want?

On the Stree

at L o n d o n Fash What first at tracted me to this girl to take her photograph was the bright berry lipstick she had on. The colour made her edgy and she stood out from others on the street. I also took no tice of her gorgeous Mulberry ba g, which are very on trend at the moment.

The cardigan was the first thing that caught my eye. The style and colour was extremely at tractive, mak ing this girl able to wear a basic tee with jeans and look fashionable. Teamed with desert boots, she looks fabulous!

The first thing I noticed about this girl was her hair and makeup. She looked so glamorous, almost as if she was a model who had just finished a runway show. Her outfit was el egant and effortless, mak ing her look so stylish.

Who would have thought a bright blue bow tie, horse riding style leggings and a leather Chanel handbag would work so well together, but she sure made it look good!

et with Noir

hion W e e k by Lisa Wilks At first, this girl was reluctant to having her photograph taken, as she didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think she looked good, layering up dif ferent colours patterns and fabrics, she thought she looked a mess, but I think she makes this style look brilliant.

What I loved most about this girls outfit were the moccasins which are most definitely in this season, worn with khaki highwaist peg trousers makes this outfit styli sh.

Teaming a pretty feminine polka dot dress with a khaki â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; style coat makes her look girlie but grown up, and on trend.

The formal but relaxed but ton-up pink shirt with the military style jacket makes this girl look formal but comfortable.

High S t r e e t F a s h i o n W eek By Julia Gaw

T h e posters go up. The store f i t t i n gs are given an extra p o l i s h, the red carpets are p r e pped, ready to be rolled, a n d the fashionistas of Lond o n start wearing their best h e e l s just to go down the s t r e et for a cof f e e . The leadup to Lond on F a s hion Week h o l ds a buzz of e x c i tement for t h e fashion-keen m e n and women o f E urope. When it’s so c l o s e you can n e a r ly taste t he h a i r spray, The H i g h Street shops t h r o w a party to c e l ebrate. High S t r e et Fashi on W e ek was held for five days f r o m Monday 6 S e p tember, and p r e t ty much con s i s t e d of various f a s h ion labels p u t t ing on extra o f f e rs and treats t o e ntice shoppers with the l u r e of upcoming fashion w e e k. T h e treats incl uded vouche r s , product samples and o t h er gifts when you made a p urchase at the relevant s t o r es (including House of F r a s er, Next, Office, Gap, H & M, Zara, and John Lewis). B u t the piece du resis t a n ce of this week is the V o g ue Fashion’s Night Out e v e nt, which was held on

the W e d n e s d a y . I f y o u ’ r e not o r g a n i s e d e n o u g h t o have a m a p a n d ‘ t o - s e e ’ list, y o u c o u l d b e c a u g h t i n the m i d d l e o f O x f o r d S t r e e t , blind e d b y t h e l i g h t s a n d cove r e d in promotional

flyers , s t i c k e r s a n d c h a mpagn e g l a s s e s ( t h e l a t t e r woul d o b v i o u s l y n o t b e a bad t h i n g ) . I we n t a l o n g w i t h a p l a n that i n c l u d e d w a n d e r i n g down N e w B o n d S t t o s e e Smyt h s o n ( f o r t h e f r e e m a nicure s … a n d c u p c a k e s a n d cham p a g n e ) , c o c k t a i l s a n d DJ b e a t s a t J i m m y C h o o , a bit o f s t a r s p o t t i n g o u t s i d e Arma n i ’ s V I P r e d c a r p e t func t i o n w i t h t h e p a p s , a n d then b a c k t o O x f o r d S t r e e t

where I didn’t feel like quite a s m u c h o f a d e s i g n e r i mp o s t e r , t o f i n d s t r a n g e b a ndaged models in Zara (and a few canapés), a dance performance in River Island a n d p u r e s h o p p i n g m a yhem in Top Shop. I only touched the surface of this event. I know how anyone could do it all in the three hours allocated, but I saw enough to know a few things: 1. the h i g h s t r e e t s h o pping powers that be are smart, and know that plying customers with champagne and cocktails is a sure-fire way to drive sales. 2. I need to earn more money. There are just too many beautiful things to buy, even more after a few glasses of champagne (see point one). 3. Claudia Schiffer still looks 25 years old. Even i n r e a l l i f e , w h e r e a i r b r u s hing fails to exist. After trudging home with s o r e f e e t a n d b u l g i n g e y eballs (by now slightly bloodshot from the champagne), I felt even more excited about London Fashion Week’s impending arrival. But how can my wallet and fashion-loving eyes cope with so much excitement?

LONDON FASHION AND ART ICA, Institute of Contemporary Art

Tuesday 21st September REVIEWED BY Marion Sauvebois

Starting a brand new fashion event right bang in the middle of London Fashion Week? Clearly this is madness. Loulou Bontemps heard this about a million times as the idea of showcasing her and other burgeoning designers’ work started to germinate in her mind. Yet, she refused to let these pessimistic remarks deter h e r f r o m h e r a i m . A f t e r a l l , h e r o n l i n e b o u t i q u e h a d b e e n a s u ccess and many up-and-coming artists had certainly benefitted from the welcome exposure. And after all...She just wanted to give it a try. It is with this conquering attitude that our ambitious handbag designer embarked on this surreal adventure. Positive thinking was going to be needed as she realised the magnitude of the work to be done. Within a few short months she had to find a venue, tickle the interest of potential sponsors, get coverage a n d , t h e m o s t d a u n t i n g t a s k o f a l l , c o n v i n c e h e r f e l l o w d e s i g ners at Loulou’s Boutique to follow her lead. Tuesday 21st saw the launch of the inaugural London Fashion and Art event; the first of its kind open to the public. Amongst the pool of talent, three designers—well technically two were ‘artists’—caught my eye.

LOULOU BONTEMPS Mademoiselle Bontemps (she is half French) designed scrumptious little bags for this exhibition. Her ‘Purple Swan’ clutch, a lilac leather bag ornamented with soft feathers of the same colour, was one of the standout pieces. Her diverse collection also included a summery floral print bag and a playful brown clutch with an oversized bow and complete with delicate splashes of paint. Bontemps created her first bag a few years back whilst volunteering in Africa. “The charity I was working for was trying to raise money by selling handmade jewellery and bits and pieces. The problem was that their display wasn’t exactly trendy or appealing. So I decided to help them and to make pretty jewellery they could sell... and a black bag.” Did I sense shame? Surely not. After all she had accomplished this, LFA. She had secured the magnificent venue we were now standing in, The Institute of Contemporary A r t , a n d h a d o r g a nised an entire fashion show for her team (!). “It was a black leather handbag. It was really badly made,” she laughed. “I decorated it with shells. But I loved it at the time and was so proud of it.” Would she say her technique has improved since these early days? “I hope so!” I could certainly vouch for the clutches

in front of my eyes. The vintage embellishments and jewellery gracing their soft leather was the most unusual thing about them. “I love Vintage,” confessed Bontemps. “I almost always decorate my bags with antique ornaments. I go to markets and antique fairs but actually I find a lot on eBay and Gumtree. I put ads up and I look for people who are emptying their grandma’s attic. Spring cleanings, garage sales, these have been a great way to find unusual objects and antique fabrics. My mum was actually emptying her attic a while back and she had these hideous dresses made out of really outrageous fabric. So I took them all and cut them up. I turned them into vintage bags and they sold out very quickly.” But the question burning my lips was about LFA itself. Did the organising process go smoothly? “Not at all! But it would have been boring if it had. Everyone had a freak out at one point or another but, for the most part, we were all extremely excited about this project and put a lot of effort into it. We knew it would be an amazing way to promote our designs and ourselves. And, who knows, if things go according to plan, LFA could turn into a massive week-long event with fashion shows, presentations and exhibitions.” I certainly hope so.

S TIL L R E M A I N S An t i q u e s a n d u n i q u e em b e l l i s h m e n t s w e r e als o t h e o r d e r o f t h e da y i n t h e S t i l l R e m ains cor n e r . I m a g i n e g oing u p t o y o u r g r e a t gra n d m o t h e r ’ s a t t i c an d f i n di n g a n o l d du s t y t r u n k f i l l e d w i t h littl e t r e a s u r e s : V i c t oria n p o r c e l a i n d o l l s , an eng r a v e d w a t c h c a se, a n o t e b o o k f i l l e d w i th drie d f l o w e r s , a b r i c -abra c o f t o y s a n d o t her lost o r f o r g o t t e n r e mna n t s f r o m t h e p a s t . No w i m a g i n e t h a t t he pre c i o u s c o n t e n t s of t h i s t r u n k a r e l a i d do w n i n f r o n t o f y o u at a n e x h i b i t i o n a n d you m i g h t g e t a f e e l of S t i l l R e m a i n s ’ s t a rtlin g c o l l e c t i o n . H a nging d o w n f r o m a t r e e, all k i n d s o f V i c t o r i a n wa t c h c a s e s a t t a c h ed to s o f t r i b b o n w e r e on d i s p l a y . G e t t i n g clo s e r , o n e d i s c o v e red a r e g a l i a o f m i n u s c ule an t i q u e d o l l s , r e a l drie d b u t t e r f l i e s a n d an a c t u a l W o r l d W a r I gla s s e y e ( ! ) e n c l o s ed in t h e s i l v e r c a s e s . “W e w a n t e d t o r e c r eate a s o r t o f n a t u r a l mu s e u m , ” e x p l a i n e d Lisa , o n e o f t h e m a ster m i n d s b e h i n d S t i l l Rem a i n s . I n s a t i a b l e in the i r s e a r c h f o r n e w ma t e r i a l a n d V i c t o r i an tre a s u r e s t o i n t e g r a te in t h e i r j e w e l l e r y , w hen the y a r e n o t r a n s a c king s o m e p o o r s o u l ’ s sta l l a t a n a n t i q u e ma r k e t o r a c t u a l l y ma k i n g t h e p e nda n t s , L i s a a n d Ra c h e l — h e r p a r tner i n c r i m e — t a k e imp r o m p t u t r i p s abr o a d , m o s t l y t o Fra n c e a n d G e rma n y . T h e s e c r e t to t h e i r s u c c e s s is t e a m w o r k a n d ea c h o f t h e i r c a s e s

is designed and f illed by both artists. “We make all our jewellery together and if Lisa starts on one piece then I’ll be the one finishing it off and vice versa. We consta ntly bounce ideas off each other,” added Rachel. The most outstanding jewel, in my humble opinion, was a case enclosing a porcelain doll’s hand holding a bunch of pressed flowers although a butterfly piece also caught my eye. “I found the flowers in one of my grandmothers old notebooks. I took all the ones I could find but now, unfortunately, we have run o ut.”

THE LFA FASHION SHOW THEME: Ethereal garden party COLOURS: Light blue, pink and green FABRICS: Lace, cotton and silk HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOKS: -Sport a clutch -Ornament a fedora hat with a feather -Wear soft, romantic colours and fluid fabrics. The LFA crew showed off their unique creations at the Once Upon a Time fashion show, organised in support of the Hauser Bears charity, and certainly outshone many, not to say all, of the exhibitors partici pating in the event. The soothing sounds of an enticing melody spread through the incredible venue, The Bloomsbury Ballrooms, as models cad in the LFA designers’ garments and

accessories w a l k e d elegantly d o w n t h e catwalk. Cl o t h i n g b y Murrin, Briar R o s e , S a l l y Pang and P e y r o v i w a s exquisitely c o m p l i mented by G e m m a Dane, H&G J e w e l l e r y , Elmstone an d L o u l o u Bontemps’s q u i r k y jewels and f a s h i o n a ccessories. A v i n t a g e teapot bag , v e r y A l i c e in Wonderla n d , d e c orated by Bo n t e m p s certainly sto o d o u t a s did a deligh t f u l b e j e welled teddy b e a r . B u t the most ey e - c a t c h i n g items were, b e y o n d a doubt, Elm s t o n e ’ s stunningly e x e c u t e d headpieces a n d f edora hat. Em b e l l i s h e d with peaco c k f e a t hers and bea d d e t a i ling these tre a s u r e s o f millinery we r e s i m p l y enchanting ( i t i s a shame that E l m s t o n e ’ s dramatic ha t s w e r e not featured a t L o ndon Fashion a n d A r t the followin g w e e k . . . ) and added a f a i r y t a l e touch to the s h o w ’ s r omantic atm o s p h e r e .

. . . h t i w e l y My st Lauren Hawes

Fashionista- Do you have any f avourite designers? Lauren: Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Rober to Cavalli, Jimmy Choo, Louboutin... I like looking through magazines and seeing all the dresses and shoes that I can’t afford! Also, I dream that one day, my boyfriend will buy me a little something for m Tiffany’s!(Fashionista will pass this on to Stu!) a gir l can dr eam!

Fashionista: Which shops do you usually buy your clothes in? Lauren: I’m a big fan of Aldo for shoes and bags.

The prices are reasonable and the trends are usually very up to date. I also like Miss Selfr idge, H&M, Warehouse, and Mango for the same reasons Fashionista: How would you describe your style? Lauren: I take a lot from magazines and other people, throw them together and see what they look like on me. I’m not one of those people who just throw whateve r together and look amazing, I have to think about what I wear quite a lot be fore hand Fashionista: Wha t is the f avourite item of clothing tha t you own and why? Lauren: My nude shoes

Vital Stats Lauren Hawes 18 Student Size 6-8

from Aldo. They make my legs look long because they are super high and just look amazing! Fashionista: Describe your typical outfit for 1) a first date - skinny jeans, top and heels red lips 2) a night out - shor t dress, usual blac k and heels red lips! 3) a lunc h with friends - leggings, top and flat boots of shoes 4) a special event/par ty shor t dress, usually blac k! Big heels, classy hair and make up and red lips! Fashionista: Who ar e your style icons? Lauren: Cheryl Cole, Sarah Jessica Par ker, Sienna Miller, Diane Kr uger, Jen nifer Aniston, they all always look so classy and well dressed. Fashionista: Finish the fol lowing in relation to fash ion items; 1) I own so many....... shoes 2) I wish I could buy..... a dress for m Alexander McQueen

3) I’ve always wanted.... everything I cant have! Ha! 4) I am guilty of.... buying stuff i dont need QUICK FIRE QUESTIONS shoes or bags? = shoes casual or dressy? = dressy 1 item whic h you wouldn’t admit to owning (until now)? = a scr unc hie Best outfit you own? = my blac k dress from Mango, I wore it to the last Christmas night out Designer or high street? = designer RANDOM QUESTION If you could swap bodies with anyone in the wor ld who would it be with and why? Kate Hudson, she has an amazing figure, very toned without being too skinny, she has nice long blonde hair! It was Cheryl Cole, but I do think she is a bit on the skinny side. P.s. what are you suggest ing Fashionista!? Haha!

LONDON FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SHOW Spring/Summer 2011

O rschel Read Agi & S am Sibling Posthuman_Wardrob e Present at i o n

ORSCHEL READ MENSWEAR SHOW VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT WEDNESDAY 22 SEPTEMBER 2010 REVIEWED BY: Marion Sauvebois THEME: James Bond glamour fused with safari chic COLOURS: Grey, juniper green, navy and cerulean blues FABRICS: Dupion silk, cashmere, Sea Island cotton and tweed Creating new silhouettes with old shapes and im pressing one’s audience certainly is tricky when it comes to tailored suits. I was slightly put off when I found out that the fashion show I was to attend, ‘The Spy who becomes me,’ was set to feature almost exclusively tuxedos in the vein of James Bond and following MI-5 chic. MI-5 chic? Who has ever heard of such a thing? Expecting a series of elegantly understated and unexciting utilitarian suits I took a seat, less than thrilled, and prepared to be disappointed. The de piction of Orschel-Read’s collection as exploring ‘the transitionary phase of a young playboy in the Riviera of the Ligurian Sea and his battle to be come a self-sufficient gentleman of res ponsibili ties’ (and presumably, later on, a spy) screamed one thing to me and one thing only: it has been done before. So there I sat, smug and proud to have found the intrinsic flaw in Orschel-Read’s latest project. How wrong can one person be? I will let you be the judge of that. The tribal music was the first surprise. OrschelRead’s young playboy did wear single breast utilitarian suits but his wardrobe extended way beyond this classic shape (or the typically ‘Bondish’ colour panel). Iridescent green striped tux edo trousers, dusky grey double-breas ted mili tary jackets, electric blue suits and, to top this remarkable parade, a floral blazer: the collec tion was a completely unique take on the play boy turned responsibly-sound-individual look. If James Bond did dress this way, it would give me an incentive to actually watch the movies. Traditional tweeds were rejuvenated—gone were the washed out greens and insipid browns— and, turned into yoke blazers, were bestowed a distinc tive ‘modern explorer’ look. Complimented by ag ate green and purple paisley tuxedo shirts, these blazers were the most memorable pieces in the entire collection; except maybe for a pair of silk trousers with a bird motif. Athletic wear made a brief appearance at the show with a knitted me tallic grey jumper and matching ribbe d shorts.

Even some of the more con ventional garments, such as denim trench coats or flight jackets, sport ed casual hoods. This collection was thrilling. Class, glamour, pa nache, flamboyant colours, eccentricity and in ventiveness— I could not have asked for more. HOW TO RECREATE: -Tweeds -Green striped tuxedo trousers -Floral blazers (for the brave men only!) -Knitted jumpers -Casual hood detailing to coats and jackets.

AGI & SAM MENSWEAR PRESENTATION WEDNESDAY 22 SEPTEMBER VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Marion Sauvebois THEME: The Wild Wild West COLOURS: Aubergine , burgundy, orange, turquoise and green FABRICS: Wool, cotton, blend of elastic woven fibres Instead of having their models walk in a straight lin e along a catwalk, Agi & Sam opted for a more imaginative and theatrical way of both showing their garments off— not only as works of art but as wearable and functional items of clothing— and literally bringing their ‘cowboys and Indians’’ concept to life: a tableau vivant. Planted in the middle of an improvised stage and set against the backdrop of a meticulously rec reated American West desert, some of the mod els sat lazily on the floor, others stood, walked around or interacted with the scenery and props all the while chatting to each other. This intrigu ing performance was topped by the presence of two mannequins dressed in white trench coats and laid down on the ground on a bed of purple flowers. “The mannequins represent ‘dead bodies’. We came across Sergio Leone’s film, Once Upon a Time in the West, and decided to recreate one of its most beautiful and powerful scenes where a murdered couples’ bodies are placed on the ground outside their house in a sort of open air mourning ceremony,” explained Sam Cotton. “The whole collection is inspired by this wild west theme. In the movie as in real life Native Ameri cans lost their land to the European settlers. But we wondered: ‘what would happen if we turned it the other way around, and Native Americans pop ulated Europe?’ That’s when we got the idea for our collection, ‘The Native American Colonisation of European States’. Of course Native Americans would have progressed and developed as a nation in the same way that The United States did but they would necessarily have kept typically tribal and ethnic traits. This would be reflected in the patterns and colours of their clothes,” the young designer added. “We researched Native American garments for inspiration but also looked at nine teenth century style. You can really see it in the collection’s Victorian-type tailored suits.” Suit jackets and blazers indeed formed the main body of Agi & Sam’s second line. From a striped

black and white trench coat to a burgundy blazer to an earthy orange and absinthe green doublebreasted jacket, the line reinterpreted Victori an fashion and infused a tribal feel and colour scheme into nineteenth-century classic cuts. The most eye-catching and ‘cool’ items displayed, however, were the ankle grazing multicoloured slim fit slacks sported by most models. “The motif on the multicoloured jacket is actual ly a painting I created and scanned into a comput er. It was digitally printed on the garment. What we have been trying to do with this collection is stretch the boundaries of digital printing. This is how we managed the faux-wool effect which dom inates the collection. The tight trousers look like they have been knitted but actually if you touch the fabric you will realise that it is seamless.” HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -wear a felt hat -opt for bold colours -combine busy motifs and stripes

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SIBLING MENSWEAR SHOW WEDNESDAY 22ND SEPTEMBER SOMERSET HOUSE REVIEWED BY: Marion Sauvebois THEME: Punk and Pop Art COLO URS: Black, white, red, yellow FABRICS: Wool, mohair Entering the busy Portico Rooms at Somerset House, one was immediately welcomed by two mannequins dressed in black jersey tracksuits— the result of Sibling’s collaboration with Tim No ble and Sue Webster— featuring expertly embroi dered neon-coloured profanities such as ‘wanker’, ‘cunt’ and ‘fuck up’. Greeted in style, the observ er was further insulted by two rows of static dum mies whose paper facemasks kindly exhorted him or he r to ‘piss off.’ Despite, or rather because of this injunction to stay away, I was determined to get closer to the mannequins and the electrifying red and yellow jumpers they sported. “We were inspired by punk and pop art for Collec tion 5,”explained Cozette McCreery, one of the designers behind Sibling’s playful subv ersion of classic knitwear styles. “We wanted to merge Ger man, British and New York punk while still keeping a very English-centric style. Our work has always been informed by subcultures but this time we wanted to push the limits of what could be done with knitwear even further.” There you have it. This sentence sums up perfect ly what Sibling’s Collection 5 is all about. Looking around the room, it was hard not be entranced by the punk rock atmosphere. Bright red over sized polka dots or stylized paintbrush strokes on white and grey jumpers, reinvented leopard print (with the traditional brown replaced by ver million, white and acid yellow) and navy knitted jackets with zips across the shoulders, Sibling’s seditious colour-blocked sweaters were a hit and fulfilled their promise to surpass ‘Collection 4’ in audacity. The standout piece was a white jumper graced with a Mohawk-ed Statue of Liberty whose face was strangely reminiscent of a young Elvis. “Actu ally, this is exactly what we thought: it looks ex actly like Elvis. It was a lucky coincidence though and we never planned it. Now the jumper fits even better with our American influences,”said McCreedy. Wearable, atypical and fun, I can only agree with Sibling’s designe rs Joe Bates, Cozette McCreery

and Sid Bryan, when they say that their latest creations are “fucking beautiful.” HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: - Choose neon colours, especially bright red and yellow - Opt for daring motifs - Wear zip jackets and jumpers

POSTHUMAN_WARDROBE PRESENTATION WEDNESDAY 22ND SEPTEMBER VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT REVIEWED BY: Marion Sauvebois TH EME: Martial arts meets menswear COLOURS: Navy, grey, white FABRICS: Denim, cotton, lycra Three, t wo, one...action. No catwalk, stage or raised platform in s ight at the Posthuman_Ward robe presentation. Instead, as I entered the vast Victorian room, I was welcomed by blue gym mats spread out on the floor. This was going to be an athletic strut for designer Nimesh Gadhia’s mod els. Or so I thought. Little did I expect, when two respectable-looking models clad in elegant tailored suits made their appearance to an upbeat dance track, that the afore mentioned gym mats were set to accommo date a wrestling match between the pair. As the models come martial artists stretched their limbs effortlessly, Gadhia’s point came across with more strength than any traditional catwalk show would have permitted: his designs were sophisti cated yet comfortable, delicate yet strong, fitted yet flexible. The rest of the collection featured asymmetrical designs complemented by Gadhia’s ingenious ad dition of mesh gussets and arching Lycra panels on the trousers’ crotch extending to the back of the knees—an athletic touch to be expected from a man who designed award-winning sportswear for Puma and Quicksilver. Simple colours were the order of the day with a navy, blue and grey palette. Functional and stylish, Posthuman_Ward robe’s range of highly original menswear was a detonating success. HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK: -Wear neutral colours -Pair suits with smart white trainers -Mesh gussets are a must

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Dressing to Suit Your Body Shape: a Man’s Guide Introduction

By Aftab Ali

D r e s s ing to compliment your body s h a p e i s k e y f o r a n y o n e – m a n o r w o m a n – i n o r d e r t o l o ok and feel your best as well as i n c r e a s i n g y o u r c o n f i d e n c e . W h e t h e r y o u r p e r s o na l p r eference is to keep casual or m a k e a n e f f o r t t o d r e s s - u p , t h e r e a r e v a r i o u s e a s y t o - f o llow tips – and tricks – for learn i n g h o w t o d r e s s f o r t h e s h a p e o f y o u r bo d y . T h e r e a r e commonly five body shapes for m e n : t a l l , s h o r t , h e a v y - s e t , m u s c u l a r , a n d t h i n .

TALL

Avoid tight-fitting clothes that make you appear taller. In addition, avoid vertical patterns which are known to add to the illusion of height – as will dressing in monochromatic colours. Solution? Firstly, choose a horizontal pattern on a top – especially around the shoulders to make them appear wider – and opt for tops containing a bit of colour with a slightly loosefitting pair of jeans or trousers i.e. straight-leg style, upturned at the bottom. For guys who want to dress more formally and have a preference for the suit, decide on a heavier fabric i.e. tweed or wool. The thicker fabric will not highlight the already tall silhouette in the way that other figure-hugging suits would. As previously mentioned, a big no-no is when tall guys wear pointed-toe shoes. This will only add to the length of the legs. Always go for (semi) squared-toed footwear to avoid the ‘Jack Skellington’ look.

SHORT Always avoid clothes that have large prints. The sheer ‘loudness’ of these garments will overwhelm the frame into further shortening it. If you would still like to have your patterns, try more subtle prints in the form of black and white pieces as these will help to create the illusion of height. When wearing a suit, go for a dark pinstriped one or a plain and fitted style. The key point to bear in mind here is to always finish the look off with a skinny tie. Chunky ties will only add to the shortness of the torso, whereas a skinny tie will help deceive onlookers into thinking that the torso area is longer than it actually is. Avoid pointy-toed shoes. To make your legs look in proportion with the rest of your body, choose square-toed ones. Ironically, the same applies to tall guys!

[Images are courtesy of Les Garcons de Glasgow who kindly gave permission for their use]

HEAVY SET The most obvious rule for guys who fall under this category is to steer clear of baggy clothing as this will only add more bulk to the frame. Always opt for clothing that ‘skims’ over the body. This way, you can still chose to hide parts that you may feel self-conscious about while avoiding tight-fitting garments. As I have already touched upon with tall guys, heavy-set men should choose vertical patterns over horizontal ones to lengthen the body. Furthermore, compared with tall men, heavy-set guys will pull off dressing in monochromatic colours as this will create the illusion of a slimmer and taller frame. Wear a belt to further slim down the waistline. For men who choose to dress-up, the only golden rule here is to always avoid double-vented jackets to evade making the rear-end look too bulky. Because doublevented jackets have a slit up the back, they will draw attention to the backside.

uscular

If tall, muscular men are best to wear muted-coloured tops and shirts. Horizontal patterns will only add width and vertical stripes will elongate the body. Shorter guys should take advantage of stripes to add height to their profile. When choosing a suit, select jackets that have little shoulder padding. This means that you can avoid having a triangleshaped torso. As with the heavy-set man, suits should ‘skim’ and compliment the frame without being too tight. The fabric should be light – not heavy – otherwise, you risk widening the body.

THIN If, like me, you posses a thin frame, you need to add weight to your profile. That is why horizontal lines are a thin man’s best friend! Textured fabrics such as tweeds and check will help to add some substance to the frame. A deeper shade of grey seems to do the trick sometimes too. I find that I need to be particularly careful when shopping because a fitted outfit only draws attention to the fact that I am thin. But then, loosefitted clothes ridiculously exaggerate my lean frame. Therefore, opt for clothes that, again, ‘glide’ along with the profile at your own discretion. As a thin man, my favourite haunts along the high street are: Topman, New Look, Primark and, occasionally, River Island. Even H&M Kids! Believe it or not, but grooming can make a difference. In my experience, allowing a little more hair to grow up top can make a dramatic difference by making the thin man look less ‘ill’!

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Ca rol yn Ma ssey

s y o b e h t e m o c e r e H by A f tab Ali

Far more civilised than the st ylish scrum that outlines the womens wear shows, M enswear Day was most definitely at the forefront of London Fashion Week (LFW ), showcasing a wide range of talent, proving why men’s fashion is among the most vivacious around in the UK ’s capital today. Held at the end of LFW for Spr ing/ Summer 2011 on Wednesday 22nd S eptember, the aim of M enswear Day was to br ing men’s fashion up on par with the event ’s much- celebrated womenswear designers. This is how things shaped-up on the big day : The much-anticipated day ’s excitement was finally quelled with the Topman D esign show which showcased the men’s equivalent of the cur rent Topshop Unique collec tion. Great things were expec ted from the Topman D esign presentation and spec tators were

not lef t disappointed. S et to an Andrew Lou Oldham version of Play with Fire, the ‘mods’ convinc ingly strutted down the runway in sassy double -breasted numbers – some fused with trench-par k as and o thers with psychedelic round sunglasses – leaving onlookers almost immediately awestruck with how a high street brand is man aging to spear head such cuttingedge tailor ing. On the whole and unexpec tedly, shor ts will be mainstream in spr ing/summer 2011, but will men dare to wear what can only be descr ibed as high-waisted shor ts? Watch this space... The day ’s second cat walk show was from Chr istopher Shannon whose entire collec tion was in white and shades of grey merged with everpresent snow camouflage patter ns and – wait for it – fishing hats. S o take note now, guys: ice -fishing has become chic. Just- cut-above the -k nee pr istine shor ts were a

key piece through the show and were teamed with back packs and cut- out t-shir ts, mak ing for a ver y ‘clean and fresh’ show and, un doubtedly, spr ing/summer 2011. D ubbed as being “definitely one to watch”, young I r ish designer JW Anderson sur passed expec tations on the day by getting exper imental with tex tures and finishing touches to his pieces. Floral pr ints, dip - dyed tops and str ing mesh jumpers were secured with militar y-influenced, rolledup trousers and boots – the toe caps of which were displayed with Swarovsk i cr ystals; funk y or what?! O verall, biker jackets with studded collars balanced out the ‘ hippy ’ and Budd hism-influenced feel, with the show-stopper be ing a laser light display and Pulp soundtrack . Topman and Fashion East teamed up to, once again, br ing us the

collec tion of real exuberance, best when it channelled c ycling tops. Like Chr istopher Shannon, another young designer whose confidence seems to be increasing with ever y season is “Nor thampton’s prodi gious son”, James Long. Long is al ready well-k nown for his inventive and or iginal use of leather and wor ked around effec ts with paint – at his best with sweaters k nitted with the effec t of an ar tists splatters – among a mix of biker jackets and paint- effec t shor ts. Kokon to Zai a.k .a. K TZ’s cat walk show had a ver y regal feel to it and came out to be one of the more favoured collec tions of the week . Almost each model wore a thin gold crown/headband around their heads and the main pr int used throughout the collec tion was a str ik ing floral patter n on black and gold and black on white. While the womenswear was mainly charac ter ised by str ik ing bodycon silhouettes, the menswear was looser and more relaxed. The for m encompassed a ‘K ings and Q ueens of old ’ look with a touch of gothic added in also. M ore on the dramatic side of life, it was a bit diffic ult to envision how this look will filter down onto the high street, but the spec tators were drawn in all the same.

To pman De si gn

JW Ande rson

To pman De si gn C hristoph er Sh an non

MAN collec tion: the t wice -year ly celebration of new talent. This season, alongside New Power Stu dio, Central St M ar tin’s MA Graduate Felipe R ojas Llanos and M artin e R ose – with her long-awaited cat walk debut from her self-titled label – all emerged tr iumphantly. The young and spir ited New Power Studio offered up wearable clothes with an edge. D esigns were in spired by pop culture, combining spor tswear and tailor ing references. Fe lipe R ojas Llanos showed real grace with his use of colour and subtle volume, while M ar tine R ose pushed herself to create a

A personal favour ite, Carolyn M assey has yet again illustrated her unparalleled approach to how dress men with her, at times, discrete militar y references and intelligent cuts. M assey was one of the most well-received on M ens wear Day – and not just because gin and tonics were handed out to spec tators before the presen tation! M assey ’s collec tion showcased her adoration of Br itish militar y and traditional tailor ing, flawlessly balanced with a colour scheme of mustard, cream and stone, complemented by nav y and petrol blue. The show later seg ued into war mer tones with sandcoloured boots and woven leather shoes – finished off with a backpack and doc tor ’s bag too! I felt for the models though who looked as though they had not been fed for days beforehand. Under the direc tion of Patr ick Grant, tailor E. Tautz is considered to be the epitome of S avile R ow. Grant has said that his main aim is S avile R ow cutting; elegant shoulders, suppressed waist, well-pro por tioned, well-balanced and unfussy in keeping with the spor ting and militar y traditions. E. Tautz like simple cutting paired with bold accents of colour and patter n – cloths with scale and tex ture; big checks, fine flannels, and str ipes.

S o, how would Grant sum up the E. Tautz man? “ The Tautz man has a classic English s ensibilit y mixed with a k ind of schoolboy humour ; he likes to dress elegantly, but enjoys clothes with wit.” This collec tion speaks for itself!

Fe l i pe Rojas Llanos

emerging, fresh designers and the new names about M ayfair ’s S avile R ow, M enswear Day looks set to now stir up a movement of its own accord. KTZ

S o, af ter a successful week – and an even more successful and exciting M enswear Day – LFW truly saved the best ‘ til last. B y managing to unear th ties bet ween KTZ

KTZ

Never one to do anything by half, drawing M enswear Day – and LFW – to a close in t ypical dramatic st yle was bespoke suit guru, Oz wald B oate ng. To celeb rate 25 years in cuttingedge tailor ing, B oateng showed- off his collec tion of flamboyant and exotic cocktail wear in the for m of a 100-model cat walk at a film premier-like fashion show at the O deon Leicester S quare. Packed with ‘Oz wald-lovers’, he was not only showing t wo seasons’ wor th of menswear, but also his film, A M an’s Sto r y, highlighting his wor k . The collec tion featured or iginal takes on moder n day tai lor ing such as d irec tional shor t and suit jacket sets, hunting-inspired velvet trouser suits teamed with full-length macs and the enthuse d use of quilting against tai lor ing. Colours were bold, in keep ing with B oateng’s signature st yle, while standout p rofiles included high waisted trousers featur ing pocket chains.

Has the traditional catwalk show become outdated? by Hannah Sheen Wi t h y e t another f a s h i o n week season d on e a nd dusted, it’s n ot d i f f icult to ques t i o n h o w much longer t h e r u n way is going to l a s t f o r. With design e r s r a k i ng up bills as m u c h a s £20,000 for t h e p r o duction costs o f s h o w casing thei r c o l l e c t i ons on the c a t w a l k, many are t u r n i n g to the use of s t a t i c p resentationsi n c l u d i ng Mulberry, S t e l l a McCartney and O r l a Ki ely just to n a m e a few. D on ’ t b e fooled into t h i n k i n g that this is j u s t a n option for the b i g n a m es though. T h e s t y le of presenta t i o n s a l lows for new d es i g n e rs who aren’t e s t a b l i shed enough t o p r o d uce their own c a t w a l k show to af f o r d a b l y showcase t h e i r c ollection and g a i n t h e necessary e x p o s u r e. A l e x a n der McQueen m a y h a ve been proof t h a t s u ccess came f r o m p r oducing the m o s t f l amboyant r u n w a y vision imagin a b l e , b ut skip to the s m a l l p rint and you’ll f i n d t h at his brand h a s b e e n left with l i a b i l i t i es of around £ 3 2 m i l lion. S o , h a s the catwalk p a s s e d its heyday? We l l , w e have to

presume so when we’ve become m o r e interested in wh i c h celebrities are g r a c ing the front row a n d even what they’ r e wearing. The runway fuels a sense of hierarch y more than ever t o day and has undo u b t edly become a ga m e of self-importan c e (note, you’re no t in the game unle s s you’re seated in t h e front three rows ) . I s our preoccupatio n with where we si t a t a show overshad o w ing how fashion i s supposed to be s o m e thing beautiful a n d inspiring? Of cou r s e it is. With the recent i n troduction of liv e streaming of sho w s , we don’t have to be sat in the fro n t row to view a de signer’s collectio n i n real time. Fashio n i s becoming more a c cessible to a wid e r audience making the intimacy of t h e runway appear ir relevant. Paris Vo g u e editor, Carine Ro i t feld, was recent l y quoted by the Ne w York Times jokin g , ‘half an hour dri v i n g , half an hour wai t i n g , seeing the show, t h e n half an hour bac k . And when I get b a c k ,

I see the show on the internet.’ The media landscape is constantly revolutionising and the industry can only continue to flourish if it keeps up with these d e v e l o p m e n t s . We often feel as if the world is going to end without clutching our B l a c k b e r r y o r i Ph o n e in one hand, and with the latest show just a f e w c l i c k s a w a y, w h y do we still bother to attend the real McCoy I hear you say? Gareth Pugh attempted to illustrate that the catwalk show

has become outdated through his creation of an 11-minute film showcasing his coll e c t i o n d u r i n g Pa r i s F a s h i o n We e k s e v eral seasons ago. His reasoning for this stemmed from a desire to not have to worry about anything going wrong during a l i v e p r o d u c t i o n . Wi t h the 16 year old mode l , N i n a Po r t e r, s t e a l ing the headlines at L o n d o n F a s h i o n We e k last month for tripping at the Burberry Pr o r s u m s h o w, m a y b e Pugh has made his p o i n t l o u d a n d c l e a r.

S t i l l images meant p e o ple were talk i n g about the beauty o f P ugh’s ensembles a s o pposed to any m i s h aps. D e s i gners today, no t a b l y Marc Jacobs a n d Henry Holland, f r e q uently use Twit t e r as a mechanism f o r t heir vision which i s t r anslated onto t h e catwalk. With a n e w blog created a p p r oximately every f i v e seconds, anybody i s e n titled to their v i e w on a particular c o l l ection regardless o f w hether they in p e r s on witnessed the r u n w ay show itself. T h e fashion world i s b ased on illu s i o n though, isn’t it? T h e r efore it would b e s lightly hast y to b r a n d the catwalk s h o w ‘outdated’ when w e c an never witness t h e real thing through

the means of d i g i tal media. De s i g n e r s want a wider a u d i ence to feel a p a r t of an exclusiv e s h o w when really t h e i r a i m is for them to o n l y see and hopef u l l y want to buy a f i n ished product o f i t . Anybody can e x p r e s s an opinion on a p a r ticular collec t i o n on a forum, b u t t h i s doesn’t neces s a r i l y hold the same v a l u e as somebody w h o witnessed it b e i n g showcased. There is a ver y p a r ticular marke t f o r static present a t i o n s , which doesn’t b y a l l means push th e p o w er of catwalk s h o w s aside. The int r i c a t e detail of a Ni c h o l a s Kirkwood shoe f o r example isn’t e x a c t l y going to be en h a n c e d by fast-walkin g m o d els marching d o w n a

r u n w a y. S a s h a Wi l k i n s - s t y l e j o u r n a l i s t , e d i t o r, broadcaster and creator behind the award-winning blog Liberty London Girl, believes that the a r g u m e n t f o r r e f o r ming the way designers’ collections are showcased is flawed. Just because we live in what she describes as a ‘content rich environment’ doesn’t necessarily mean the traditional catwalk show has become outdated. She claims that we always need the runway and an audience in order to even be able to live stream it. So why do fashion insiders still travel the world just to see a 10 minute runway show? Sasha says that nothing can possibly compare to ‘the way the

clothes move on the r u n w a y, t h e w a y t h e models walk and the music that is playing in the background’. Wa t c h i n g a c a t w a l k show is about the entire experience. Sasha believes that i t ’s t h e r u n w a y w h i c h a l l o w s Jo h n G a l l i a n o to illustrate his vision for the season. Olivier Zahm once described fashion as being like a religion or cult, and the catwalk as a ceremony which brings people t o g e t h e r. Can we really have such a connection with the likes of a 3D film that Burberry Pr o r s u m o p t e d f o r earlier this year in selected locations in D u b a i , To k y o , L o s A n g e l e s , Pa r i s a n d N e w Yo r k ? F a s h i o n i s n ’ t an entertainment s h o w - i t ’s a v e r y s e r i ous industry that the runway has always managed to keep real f r o m s e ve r e l o o k s o n the models’ faces to the expressionless facade that key editors and celebrities seating on the front row often use. H o w e v e r, w h o k n o w s right now if the runway has become outdated? There isn’t a d e f i n i t i v e a n s w e r. New mechanisms of showcasing collections are always going to be tried and tested. In the meantime, all we can do is watch this space.

Alexander Mc Queen (1969-2010) By Charlotte T hwaites

“ If y ou ask any lady they w a n t t o b e t aller, they want to be s l i m m e r , y o u know, and they want a w a i s t . I ’ m not here to make peop l e l o o k l i k e a sack of potatoes.” Alexander McQue en was a British Fashion Designer known for his dramatic designs and surprise tactics. He start ed off working as the head designer at Givenchy for five years, and then he later founded Alexander McQueen and the rest of the McQ labels. His unconventional designs worn by many different celebrities such as, Lady Gaga, Kelis and David Bowie earned him the award of British Fash ion Desi gner of the Year, four times in a row. He was born on the 17th March 1969. During his early years

he grew up in a council flat in Stratford, London with his mother and father. It was only when he started to design and make dresses for his younger sisters that he revealed to his parents that he wanted to be come a fashion designer when he grew up. McQueen left school in 1986 at the age of 16 with only one O level in art and design. He went on to do an apprenticeship with tailors Anderson & Sheppard; the skills he learnt here helped him to get a rep utation into the fashion world as an experienced designer for the tailored look. He had many clients whilst at Anderson & Sheppard one of whom included Prince Charles. When he was 20, he went to Milan and started working for Romeo Gigli. He then returned to his hometown, London in 1994 and applied to Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, where he was em ployed to work as a pattern cutter tutor. He then received his masters degree in fashion design. The whole of his graduation collection was bought my fashion stylist Isabella Blow. It is said that Isabella was the lady who persuaded McQueen to be known as Alexander, which is his middle name; when he launched his career in fashion design.

His first runway collections gave him the reputation for his shock tactics, making him known as “the hooligan of English fashion.” From then on McQueen was known for his unconventional runway shows; in 2003 his spring collection featured a recreation of a shipwreck and in spring 2005, where he had a human chess game on the runway. “Widows of Culloden” was the theme of his fall 2006 show, which in cluded a life sized version of Kate Moss dressed in lengths of fabric. McQueen became known for his use of skulls in his fashion collections. He designed a tshirt with a large skull on the front; the skull was made out of a flower motif design. He also designed a scarf covered in small white or black skulls; this became a fashion icon for many celebrities around the world. One of McQueen’s many accomplishments was being one of the youngest d esigners to achieve the title of “British Designer of the Year” he won this award 4 times through the years of 1996 – 20 03. In 2003 he was also awarded the CBE and was named International Designer of the Year. In December 2000, the Gucci

nine days after the death of his mother Joyce who had cancer. The Police had said that his death was not suspicious; however they did not confirm that his death was suicide. On the 17th February 2010 a post mortem showed that his death was due to asphyxiation and hanging In March 2010, a visual tribute to McQueen and his “manta” design was organised for people to view. It features Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and An nabelle Neilson.

Group acquired 51% of the McQueen Company whilst he served as being the Cre ative Director. He planned on expanding his company by opening stores in major cities such as London, Milan and New York. In 2006 he launched McQ, this was a younger, and low er priced line for both fashion conscious men and women. McQueen became the very first designer to become involved in MAC’s promotion of cosmetics created by fashion designers. McQueen released the collection on 11 October 2007 and all the colours re flected what were used in his Autumn/Winter catwalk. Models wore striking blue, green and teal eye make-up with a thick black liner in an Egyptian style. Towards the en d of 2007, Alexander McQueen had boutiques in London, New York, Los Angeles, Milan and Las Vegas. Numerous celebrities such as Sarah Jessica Parker, Rihanna and Nicole Kidman have all been spotted wear ing his fashion. McQueen received a lot of press attention after the suicide of international style icon Isabella Blow. There were

rumors that there was a rift between the two of them, down to him not appreciating her enough. However, McQueen told an interviewer that “These people just don’t know what they’re talking about. They don’t know me. They don’t know my relationship with Isabella. People can talk; you can ask her sisters ... That part of the industry, they should stay away from my life, or mine and Isabella’s life. What I had with Isabella was completely dissociated from fashion, beyond fashion.” Alexander McQueen was openly gay and he always said he realised this from a very early age. He had always said “I was sure of myself and my sexuality and I’ve got nothing to hide” McQueen’s death was announced on the afternoon of 11 Febru ary 2010. He was found in his London flat by his housekeeper. He died just days before London Fashion Week, and

A memorial was then held for him at Saint Paul’s Cathe dral on 20 September 2010. It was attended by Kate Moss, Sarah Jessica Parker, Naomi Campbell, Stella McCartney and Anna Wintour, along with 25,000 other invited guests. On 18 February 2010, the Chief Executive of the Gucci Group - Robert Polet, said that Alexander McQueen’s business would carry on with out its founder. He went onto say that a collection of McQueen’s would be on show at Paris Fashion Week. In May 2010, Sarah Burton, who helped with McQueen’s de signs since 1996 became the new Creative Director of the whole Alexander McQueen brand.