Noir Magazine

Noir August-September 2010 ISSUE 1

British Fashion & Style

EDITOR’S LETTER So here we are my fellow Fashionsta’s! The launch issue of Noir Magazine is finally here! It has been 4 weeks of hard word and craziness but completely worth it. This magazine would not even be read by you if it wasn’t for our amazing contributor’s so I would like to thank them all for their hard work and passion for making this magazine come to life.

Special thanks to our Art & Design Director Danielle Bangham for her fab work! Noir was set up as a means of giving us all the chance to write about what we love; fashion!

Since it is sooo hard to get a job in the creative industries right now, I set up Noir with the intention of giving myself and the contributor’s not just more work experience but the chance to be have their voice heard and be able to write and have fun with it so I hope they have had as much fun with making this magazine as I have.

Noir is all about the British fashion world. It is focused solely on Britain and only Britain. It will showcase the best talent we have around the industry, from the designers – emerging, underground and established – to the models, clothes, photographers, writers, stylists, blogs, trends, styles, and events. This issue sees us interviewing the amazingly talented fashion designer Jasper Garvida, who talks to us about his experiences in the fashion industry and imparts some wisdom to us about the industry. We had fun chats with the lovely Marina Guergova (seriously a designer to watch!) and Dominic Clarke. As well as these interviews, we have our Style Edits: High St Vs Designer section – what will you guys prefer? Lemme know! Julia offers an interesting insight into Melbourne Vs London fashion and Katie discusses Kate Moss as a fashion icon.

I would like to take this time to mention someone who was a big part of my life and who still inspires me in my life and work today with her strength, humour and positive outlook on life. So I would like to dedicate this first issue to my nana Mary-Ellen Duffy (nee Melly) who I know would be proud of this magazine just as I am. And I hope you all are too.

Loves xxx

Leanne Milligan

Editor in chief Noir Magazine

Follow me @leefashionista Check out Noir Magazine on Facebook for all magazine updates Any questions or comments feel free to get in touch leanne_milligan@hotmail.com

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Make sure you check out the Special Edition October Issue of Noir which will be all things London Fashion Week.

All the events, exhibitions, and catwalk shows (from established as well as up-and-coming designers).

NOIR Magazine CONTENTS EDITOR’S LETTER - Page 01 Meet our lovely editor!

MEET THE CONTRIBUTORS - Page 03 The backbone of Noir showcased to you

FASHION NEWS - Page 05

What’s happening in the Fashion World this issue?

I’M LOVING…MISCHA BARTON BAGS - Page 07

Editor Leanne Milligan tells us what she’s loving this issue and its Mischa Barton’s bag collection.

Heaven.

STYLE EDITS: DESIGNER V HIGH STREET - Page 08

Will it be the high street rebels or the designer treats which get your vote this issue?

Editor-in-chief -Leanne Milligan Art & Design Director -Danielle Bangham Head of Marketing & PR -Lauren Hawes Fashion Editor -Louise Milligan Writers & Contributors -Daniela Morosini -Katie Wozniak -Laura Grant-Evans -Katherine Beeks -Julia Gaw -Marion Sauvebois -David Tomei (Illustrator)

NOIR RESIDENT COLUMNIST - Page 15

Girl about town - Festival Chic Our lovely resident columnist Daniela Morosini will be reporting to us all the events, goings on and loves in her column.

FASHIONISTA MEETS - Page 16 - Marina Guergova - Page 17 - Jasper Garvida - Page 29 - Dominic Clarke - Page 35

HANDMADE HAULS - Page 46

Katherine Beeks takes us through what’s hot in the crafts world

BRITISH FASHION ICON - Page 49

Katie Wozniak tells us what is great about this issue’s style icon: Kate Moss.

ON THE STREET - Page 51

Jessica Shepherd stalked the streets of Britain to get you guys on the street with your style.

I’M LOVING…EASYWEAR SPORTSWEAR - Page 53

Daniela Morosini gives us the lowdown on easywear sportswear and why it’s topping her lust-list

A WEEK IN THE LIFE - Page 54

This issue sees us delve into the week of a Stylist where we will see first hand what being a Stylist really entails with Laura Grant-Evans.

NOIR MEETS THE V&A MUSEUM - Page 57

Marion Sauvebois visits the Grace Kelly Exhibition and the V&A Museum and reports back on what she thinks.

INSIDE LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W 2010 - Page 62 Leanne Milligan takes a look at what’s hot this Autumn/Winter

THE FASHION & STYLE SPREAD - Page 71

A regular feature which will be bringing all shapes, sizes, colours, styles, and fashions to showcase to inspire you in your style decisions.

A FASHIONISTA’S DIARY - Page 82

The editor – the fashion junkie that she is- will be keeping a diary of goings-on at the magazine to bring you the real insight into making a fashion magazine, the good and the bad!

STYLE ACROSS THE EQUATOR - Page 84

Julia Gaw shows us the difference in Melbourne and London style.

MY STYLE WITH… - Page 86

This issue sees the amazingly stylish Jessica Entwistle tackling an outfit fit for the Bowling.

DRESSMAKING FABRICS/FASHION FAST FACTS - Page 87/88

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MEET OUR CO I’m Jess, Noir’s Street Style Finder! I’m from Manchester, but live in Oxford for half the year where I’m studying for a Philosophy and Theology degree. I am the Fashion Editor of the university student newspaper and also keep a fashion blog. My favourite things in life include good cake, good wine, and long-distance running, and when it comes to fashion, my mantra is ‘more is more is more’ – think clashing prints and textures, costume jewellery, inappropriate hemlines and dyed red hair! I love outfits that are flamboyant and over-the-top, and would describe my style as ‘domestic goddess turned table dancer with a hangover’.

I’m usually to be found wearing a printed minidress, vintage boots, a trench coat and a ring on every finger, but I wouldn’t be seen dead in jeans. Ever. I hope you enjoy reading Noir as much as we’ve enjoyed making it. Thanks for reading!

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I’m Katherine, 24, writer, blogger, knitter and eater of Marmite.

I spent most of my life, dreaming away, in a small Cornish seaside town before I decided it was time to venture out and went away to study creative writing. After university and my adventures in the big city, I began blogging to keep myself in the writing mood and I picked up a pair of vintage knitting needles and started creating. I love creating characters for stories, surfing, Twitter, cheese and crackers and a really good cup of tea. My ultimate pet hate is an empty plug socket that is still switched on.

Laura is a stylist who has experience working on fashion shoots, weddings, theatre productions, film sets and with individual clients.

Whether it be high fashion or just a fantastic outfit for a special occasion, she will be able to find exactly what is needed.

She loves spending her afternoons trawling through the numerous vintage shops and indoor markets in her native Brighton and guarantees to find you some amazing one-off pieces whatever your style.

Laura works closely with the client in the early stages of production to understand exactly what outfit or costumes they need and is then present throughout to ensure the smooth running of the creative side of things. She has a flair for fashion of all eras especially 1930s and 1940s vintage pieces and will ensure everybody involved looks their best according to the occasion.

I’m Lauren, 19 and I’m Noir’s Head of Marketing and PR. I am currently Studying for a degree in Marketing with Business Law at Strathclyde University in Glasgow. My favourite things to do are drinking cocktails with my gorgeous girls, reading fashion mags, shopping for shoes, running, and also dreaming of a time when I have a Tiffany’s engagement ring (hint hint Stuart!) and I can buy a Prada for each hand. Many people have described me as “Glasgow’s Charlote York” due to my unwillingness to swear, my love for pearls and designer labels and the fact that I am NEVER late or say the “c” word! All in all, even though Noir has been hard work for everyone involved (mostly due to the editor’s nagging!), I have thoroughly enjoyed it and hope all the reader’s love what we have put together!

Xx

Julia Gaw is a writer and editor hailing from Melbourne, Australia, who has written articles on everything from fashion, craft and music to technology and sport.

She fell in love with an Englishman three years ago and has recently landed in London. She loves Melbourne’s coffee and street culture with all her heart, but also loves that one can never get bored in a city like London. Conversely, she believes a beach or a countryside retreat where the air feels clear, the wine flows and a good book awaits is mandatory for any city-dweller.

ONTRIBUTORS A graduate of Edinburgh University, Marion spent much of her final year hounding writers and directors for interviews for The Journal. It paid off and she received the Best Features Writer Award from The Herald Student Press Awards a few months ago; not her brightest moment as she somehow managed to drop and chip it later on that evening... She has done internships at The Sunday Times, The Independent, The Scotsman and The Herald.

By day, Marion interns at Paget Baker PR. By night, she writes articles both paid and unpaid for whoever is willing to publish her work. Soon she might not get asked for ID in pubs.

Louise is the Fashion Editor of Noir Magazine. She loves Urban Outfitters, H&M and Miss Selfridge. Her style changes depending on her mood but usually changes back and forth between Preppy and Bohemian.

She loves Sports and has had a passion for Yoga recently. She lives for shopping with her girls and then relaxing at Starbucks to gossip.

Style trends she hates include Neon clothing, Maxi dresses and shoulders pads.

Katie is a part of the Marketing and PR team but has dabbled in writing for this issue. Her friends would describe her as fun, stylish and talented but you can never locate her! She is a busy garl who always has time for her friends and LOVES fashion.

Loves to party with her friends and shop of course!

I’m Daniela, Noir’s resident girl-about-town columnist and stylish finds and stories contributor. I’m a style blogger, part time semi pro chocolatier, A level student and all round party girl (tea parties included.) I live in a not so leafy London suburb and spend my life on public transport, stealing hair ideas from girls sitting in front of me and conjugating irregular French verbs in my head because I’ve got an exam the next day, and I really, really shouldn’t be out. I’m a self-confessed geek with a sneaky passion for comic books, pre 20th century literature, films with explosions and Radio 4. I can’t be trusted with jewellery (always lose it) and have enough shoes to make Tori Spelling recoil in horror. My style is never trousers, always quirky and flirty - think Zooey Deschanel and Emma Watson’s love child winking at a camera. But with a copy of The Great Gatsby under her arm.

I’m Danielle, 22. I am the Art & Design Director for Noir. My interest in art and design began when I did a two year course in Art and Design at Edinburgh’s Telford College and a further year studing French.

During that year I also did a further night class studing Dreamweaver.

I followed this with a further two years at Stevenson College doing a Video and Animation course and further Art and Design studies.

I followed this with a two year HNC course in Interactive Multi-media.

I graduated with extra credit in September 2009. I have also done a range of freelance work designing anything from posters and flyers, to CD covers and animations. I have an excentric taste in music.

Particularly Rock bands who I regularly meet. I keep in regular contact with them all through MySpace. Despite my numerous years of experience, I have laid out all the pages in Noir to the Editors exacting standards. Hope everyone likes it and comes back for the next issue.

Fashion News BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNOUNCES NEWGEN WINNERS The British Fashion Council (BFC) announced the names of 21 of London’s brightest emerging fashion design talents that will receive BFC NEWGEN sponsorship, supported by Topshop, to show at London Fashion Week (LFW) in September 2010. NEWGEN, established in 1993, is one of the world’s most internationally recognised talent identification schemes. Its alumni include many great British designers including Alexander McQueen, Matthew Williamson, Boudicca, Giles Deacon, Jonathan Saunders and more recently designers who have directly contributed to the anticipation that surrounds London during LFW with their innovative vision and truly unique collections, including; Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Richard Nicoll, Erdem and Meadham Kirchhoff.

The recipients of NEWGEN, sponsored by Topshop are: Catwalk sponsorship: David Koma, Holly Fulton, Mary Katrantzou, Michael van der Ham, Peter Pilotto.

Presentation sponsorship: Craig Lawrence, Louise Gray.

Installation sponsorship: Christopher Raeburn, Dominic Jones, Fannie Schiavoni and Yang Du. Exhibition sponsorship: Atalanta Weller, Chau Har Lee, Christopher Raeburn, Craig Lawrence, David Koma, Dominic Jones, Fannie Schiavoni, Felicity Brown, Heikki Salonen, Holly Fulton, Jordan Askill, J. JS Lee, JW Anderson, Louise Gray, Mark Fast,

Mary Katrantzou, Michael Lewis, Michael van der Ham, Peter Pilotto, Sykes, Yang Du Three designers will be making their on-schedule debut this season; Michael Van Der Ham has been awarded sponsorship for a standalone catwalk show to showcase his asymmetric patchworked lurex, lame and silk dresses. Holly Fulton’s collection of contemporary graphic dresses and clean geometric lines will be shown back to back with David Koma’s intricate, sculptural bodycon dresses.

Continuing to show on the catwalk schedule with NEWGEN sponsorship is Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto. Mary’s digital printed collection last season presented photographic images of lace, jewels, medals and glints of metallic whilst Peter Pilotto showed a pioneering collection of constantly evolving twists on draped digital print.

Craig Lawrence’s elaborate knitwear recently worn by Lady Gaga will be shown in a presentation format once again, as will Louise Gray’s colourful, quirky, hand-embroidered collection.

Five first time NEWGEN exhibitors will feature in the exhibition this season including Heikki Salonen, Felicity Brown and Yang Du. Heikki showed an AW10 collection encompassing industrial-urban and military trends as part of the Fashion East showcase whilst Yang Du’s surrealist knitwear collections have already generated a cult following in both Japan and China. Felicity

Brown’s hand-dyed dresses with pleating, folding and layering display an expert eye for detail developed through her previous work for Alberta Ferretti, Loewe and Lanvin.

Also receiving NEWGEN sponsorship for the first time is Chau Har Lee whose sculptural, lasercut shoes will be on display in the exhibition alongside existing NEWGEN shoe designers Atalanta Weller, who challenges the boundaries of fashion footwear, and Michael Lewis who worked for several established fashion houses before creating his own new luxury footwear collection.

Former Ksubi and Dior Homme designer Jordan Askill will also be receiving NEWGEN sponsorship for the first time to display his conceptual jewellery line at LFW alongside the innovative and edgy jewellery collections from Dominic Jones and Fannie Schiavoni.

Topshop continues its support of the NEWGEN scheme for the eighteenth consecutive season.

Offering additional support to designers by providing show venues and commissioning special collections available during and beyond London Fashion Week, Topshop directly contributes to the business development of some of the most exciting design talents in London today.

Caroline Rush, Joint Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council commented, “NEWGEN is at the heart of the British Fashion Council’s talent identification, designer development and showcasing

programme. This season we have a fantastic cross section of exciting, original and talented emerging designers who we’re confident will continue to strengthen London’s reputation as a creative capital.”

Sarah Mower, the BFC’s Ambassador for Emerging Talent, said, “The breadth of talent that has come forward this season is really exciting. London is growing to encompass jewellery and shoe designers as well as ready to wear designers of many nationalities who see Britain as the ideal platform for setting up new fashion enterprises. We’re proud that, in tough times, this flourishing creativity is an asset to the UK economy, and that NEWGEN is one of the foundations of that unique London culture.”

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 2011 PROVISIONAL CATWALK SCHEDULE

The British Fashion Council has today announced the official London Fashion Week schedule for September 2010. The schedule reveals newcomers, Swedish fashion design house Acne and SS11 NEWGEN designers Michael Van Der Ham, David Koma and Holly Fulton, all making their on schedule debuts. Giles has confirmed he too will show in London marking a return following two seasons in Paris. Designers also confirmed to show on schedule

London’s schedule is known for its breadth of talent from iconic British designer brands such as Paul Smith, Jasper Conran and Betty Jackson to world-class emerging designer businesses such as Christopher Kane, Erdem, Marios Schwab and Richard Nicoll.

New this season Acne has developed a cult following in London since its emergence in 1997 with its award winning denim, leather and signature wearability. Acne’s connection with London has been reinforced recently with the opening of its first UK flagship store on Dover Street in Mayfair.

Jonny Johansson, Creative Director, Acne, commented “For me London has a great energy and momentum at the moment. I love the English way of clashing heritage and contemporary.”

Giles Deacon is one of London’s most successful designers of recent years. He launched his eponymous Giles label at LFW in 2003 following a masters from Central Saint Martins and a variety of experience from luxury brands including Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Jean Charles de Castelbajac, Louis Vuitton and Ralph Lauren.

Giles Deacon commented on his return to London “Giles is a quintessential London label and I am extremely happy to be showing in London after two successful seasons in Paris”.

NEWGEN designers David Koma and Holly Fulton will show in a back to back format in their onschedule debut whilst Mary Katrantzou and Michael Van Der Ham will host their first standalone shows. Other designers showing under the NEWGEN umbrella, sponsored by Topshop, include Peter Pilotto; while Louise Gray and Craig Lawrence will both show their collections on the presentation schedule.

NEWGEN MEN designers James Long, Christopher Shannon and J.W. Anderson will once again

show on-schedule, alongside a catwalk debut from the cutting-edge tailor to some of the world’s biggest stars Ozwald Boateng. Raw, emerging design talent juxtaposed with innovative yet popular tailoring from Savile Row designers, such as Boateng demonstrates the evolution of the breadth and calibre of talent showcased during LFW’s Menswear Day. Louise Goldin, 2010 Fashion Forward winner supported by Coutts & Co will host a digital presentation and event showcasing her S/S collection.

CEO of the British Fashion Council Caroline Rush, commented “London Fashion Week is renowned for its diversity and breadth of talent; our established, iconic brands show alongside our brightest emerging stars in an extraordinary showcase of talent season on season.” www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/ schedule

PYRUS OPENS FIRST STANDALONE CONCEPT STORE

FASHION NEWS FASHION NEWS FASHION NEWS

for a third consecutive season include Burberry Prorsum, Matthew Williamson, Pringle of Scotland, Antonio Berardi and Jonathan Saunders.

Pyrus will be making its retail debut by launching its first concept store situated within the heart of London’s West End on July 30th 2010.

The UK based brand will be taking an 880 sq. ft unit near department store Liberty, located in London’s Newburgh Street. The store will spread over two floors; the boutique on the ground floor will display collections, accessories and exclusive items, while The Basement Gallery will be a showcase space for contemporary art.

The gallery space will collaborate with existing galleries that include Nettie Horn and Mauger Modern Art. The Nettie Horn gallery has a famous list of patrons that include Charles Saatchi. The first show will feature the artist of the moment Debbie Lawson who has recently completed a commission for the hip new boutique hotel in the East End - Town Hall Hotel.

The store interior will combine

weather beaten surfaces and earthy textures alongside metal pipe work rails, exposed light bulbs with ceramic holder, reclaimed theatre barn-door lights as well as personally selected pieces by the designers including vintage mirrors, old wooden chairs and a fruity scent that will fragrance the entire store.

‘We want to think about every single detail and create an experience within the store.’

As well as offering Pyrus mainline collections, the boutique will also present exclusive jewellery, accessories and deliver new styles every 2-3 weeks.

The brand currently holds 120 accounts in its portfolio that include department stores Fenwick in London and Opaque in Japan along with key multiple independents including The Flannels Group, Anthropologie, Question Air and Anna.

. . . g n i v o I’m L Hollywood actress Mischa Barton’s fifth handbag collection is due to drop any day now and I have to say. . . I’m loving it!!! Available from July, my new arm candy this season will include her studded totes, kitsch vanity cases, stylish satchels and to die-for rucksacks!

A personal favourite of Mischa’s is the Olsen, which comes with hoops and dome studs adorning two styles of bags, the bucket and grab.

For rock chick chic Loom is the ultimate lust-have with trend ticking tassels, studding and weaved detailing.

Team the tote with your favourite skinnies and leather or grab the fringed clutch and get on that dancefloor!

Any true fashionista will sport one of the bags from this collection, get shopping ladies!!!!

The Kinsella range is a must have for any respectable fashionista.

An oversized vintage inspired doctors bag and A lister look tote are each studded with star style and given the MB stamp.

For a touch of old time glamour check out Valerie.

A style revival for luggage, the Valerie will instantly inspire wows where ever it goes with a choice of square and circular box styles studded and available in a range of retro colours.

S ’ N O T R A B A ...MISCH N O I T C E L L O C G BA

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By Leanne Milligan

INSIDE THIS ISSUE: • Rock n Roll • Country Chic • English Rose

STYLE EDITS: Designer v High Street -The ‘Best of British style’ war!!

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High Street Dress: Miss Selfridge

Rock n Roll : Mi

Bag

Dress: Miss Selfridge

ge

lfrid

ss Se Top: Pretaportobello Shoes: Miss Selfridge

Bag: ASOS

Boots: H&M

Dress: Miss Selfridge

Shorts: a-wear

tie Rowla nd : Ka gs

i

Top and skirt: Pringle of Scotland

Rin

Saunders n a th a n o J t: tfi Ou

Dress: Antonio Berad

Dress: Craig Lawrence

Shoes: Ch arlotte Oly mp Boots: Ch arlotte Oly ia mpia

Outfit: Antonio Beradi

ua Cape/Coat: Aq

in

Boots: Beyond S k

Ne Yu ckla nu nc s & e: Eliz a

Designer

High Street

Dres s:

H&M

Jacket: H&M

Hat: House of Fraser

c i h C try

Ha

t: H

&M

Boots: Mint Velvet

n u Co

Bag: River Island Top: Dorothy Perkins

Outfit: Graeme Armour

Dress: Louise Gray

Necklace: Yunus & Eliza

Dress: Michael Van der Ham

Coat : Aqu ascut um

Hat:

Dress: Mic hael Van d er Ham

Ring: Katie

d

wlan Ro

illiamson

Wi l l i a m C h ambers

and

of Scotl Dress: Pringle

W Outfit: Matthew

Designer

High Street Blouse: Primark

Shoes: Boohoo

Skirt

Skirt: Prim ark

English Rose

Dress: Pretaportobello

Bag: H&M

Shoes: Miss Selfridge

: ng

Ri

Top: Red Label

Primar

k

Dress: Miss Selfridge

: Riv er Is land

Shorts: Primark Bag: Boohoo

Dress: River Island

Bag: Vivienne Westwood

Dress: Vivienne Westwood

Dress: Amanda Wakeley

es

s:

Ta

ta

Na

ka

Outfit: Jayne Pierson

Designer

Bracelet: Katie Rowland

Dr

Bracelet: Katie Rowland

Jewellery: Vivienne Westwood

Dress: Bodyamr

Girl About Town: Festival Chic

By Daniela Morosini

Kate Moss can do it. Jameela Jamil can do it. Heck, with a good deal of hairspray and some heavy duty make up, The Saturdays can do it. But the mere mortals among us tend to show the signs of having not showered, slept or indeed eaten anything other than packet custard a little too readily. Okay, they might have a thirty strong entourage of their “people” to keep them looking fresh, but even those of us who remember to bring a canister of dry shampoo and a lipstick pale in comparison. It seems to be that a festival gives people the chance to break every basic style rule, and somehow, still look fabulous. Whoever thought you could top the best dressed lists when you’ve even not being able to clean your teeth that day? But herein lies the paradox: unwashed hair on a supermodel looks edgy;

Vice Party

Whilst a tad bored waiting for things to take off at the Kopparberg Klash style party this week (Wednesday is the new Friday, didn’t you know?), I invented a new game. Hipster bingo.

Fake glasses, check. Stonewash denim, check. Boys with bouffant hair, baggy vest tops and impossibly neat manicures? Full house. Don’t get me wrong, these are some folks seriously committed to their style; in fact, our host for the night (think a male Davina McCall on speed) ushered us outside for a “guerrilla street catwalk”, and proceeded to send unwitting art students in self-styled ensembles that would make Alexa Chung quake in her leather shorts, down a busy main London road, undeterred by the constant honking of cars, you know, wanting to drive down the road. But as mush fun as we poke at them, London’s hipsters, with their imagination and laissez-faire, street inspired, autonomous trends manage to get it right year in, year out at everyone’s favourite fashion nightmare: festivals.

Jamelia Jamil

on me, it looks trashy. The place where dressing sensibly for the weather came to die. So if your accommodation is a little more yellow stuffy Argos tent than plush celeb Yurt, how can you still look hot at Glasto?

I’d consider myself something of a festival connoisseur; a week long stint in places that aren’t technically campsites once a year, every year has to count for something. And while I’m reluctant to part with any real cash for a tent that say, might not leak in a gentle rainstorm, or become some sort of Mecca for deranged wasps (I blame the colour), I’m more than willing to fork out for practically an entire new wardrobe every year, just to avoid being that girl stumbling round in flip flops next to her Huntershod, Wayfarer-rocking counterparts. You’re not MEANT to judge at festivals – no one’s had enough sleep for that – but of course, we do, probably even more harshly than normal.

However, in five odd years on the festival circuit, I’ve picked up enough ground rules to advise the uninitiated, or indeed just the clueless. First up? There really are no rules. This is the time to pair a sequinned corset with a utility jacket, lace tights and wellies. The more thrown together it looks, the better. Of course, there are always style staples: sunglasses, Hunter wellies, a pair of high waisted shorts, a fun rain mac, tons of dry shampoo and a sense of humour. Just take one key piece (it’s usually high waisted shorts for me) and just build around it every day with a different, progressively dirtier top, stacks of jewellery, and throw caution to the wind. Be a little crazy. Treat the weekend like a canvas for new style ideas, get inspired by those around you, and most of all, don’t take yourself too seriously. You are effectively choosing to live like a hermit after all.

Fashion Interviews Fashionista Meets...

Marina, Jasper, Dominic

Photograph: Marina Guergova

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Marina Guergova: DESIGNER Marina Guergova’s CV Born: 27th September 1985 Educated: Central Saint Martins Work: Alexander McQueen, Proenza Schouler, David Szeto, Emilia Wickstead, MODA magazine.

Collections: s/s10, and upcoming

capsule collection - s/s12

-What made you decide to become a designer?

I was always an arty type, but fashion design hit me when I was about 17 and I discovered my ability to put fashion ideas into pretty decent fashion illustrations because I was already obsessed with drawing the body through life drawing. I was encouraged by my tutors to continue fashion at University and I felt very hungry to find my style and evolve. I am glad it hit me when I was a bit older, every time I read about fashion stories it’s very much “I designed my first dress when I was 5”, what, really?? Don’t be pathetic, you were drawing what the rest of the world was drawing, little girls with triangular dresses.

-How did you become a designer and what advice would you give someone wanting to become a fashion designer?

I graduated university in 2009 and after 6 months of working as Art Director for a fashion magazine and a final work placement, I decided to just go for it. I had ideas I wanted to realise as soon as possible.

Make sure that it is something

you feel you have a knack for, don’t do it just because you like the idea of it. Test yourself.

Consult your tutors. Picture a look in your head, draw it, then be critical of your work, be your biggest critic.

-Where do you find the inspirations for your collection?

Mainly from women I admire.

Colours that make me want to use them, usually hugely bought on by Interior design magazines, old Vogues. Actually just scanning lots of random magazines or internet pages and finding something which I really want to expand on, such as a pattern or shape.

-How does each of your collections come to light?

It varies...usually once I find a couple of images which I am in love with, the rest follows in neat, or maybe not so neat, succession.

-Do you have any particular muses or person in mind when designing your collection?

I have always had a thing for Katherine Hepburn and Charlotte Rampling’s style and attitude, then there’s Francoise Hardy elegance, Vanessa Paradis is someone I admire... so many ladies to look at and go nuts for! The young Bianca

Jagger, Jackie O...James Bond girls etc.

-How would you define your label and what it represents?

Women who don’t fuss over taking ages to put something on...more about simplicity and clean, elegant lines with attention to great quality fabrics and finishing. Confidence comes from how you wear clothes not how the clothes look themselves on their own.

-What has been your biggest challenge to date?

Having the balls to sit up straight and set up my own label.

-Noir Magazine is all about British fashion, what is it about the fashion world in the UK and London in particular that influences you?

There is no city more inspiring than London when it comes to fashion. Look at all the fantastic talent it brings, it is the capital for young designers to mature...I guess I like how young London is at heart. Paris for example is old at heart but also incredibly inspiring, in a different way. I can’t imagine being anywhere else, there’s so much freedom to be whoever you are.

-Is there any designer who inspires you, either in your designs or work ethic?

I have been most inspired by Alexander McQueen more than any other designer, not only in what was his dedicated work-load, but his overwhelming ability to open your eyes to things you’d never imagined.

On a degree where I relate to another designer Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo are two designers whose designs I could wear for the rest of my life and be very happy. David Szeto is a designer who, having worked for him, inspires me to be a kind designer, somebody who listens and talks to others with great respect.

-How would your family and friends describe you?

Optimist, indecisive, good listener, too patient, perfectionist, impulsive.

-What is your personal style like?

I guess my style reflects my designs; I love nudes and offwhites, clean colours, unpolluted. I do admit I do wear a lot of black in winter which I am trying to stop doing too much of, and am trying to buy only very dark blues rather than blacks...

-What is on your wish list to buy for A/W 2010?

Oh God, my wish list would be endless however I am saving this winter, going back to what I already have. However just

to be good sport I’d say an Alexander Wang or Hermes bag would be right up my alley.

get naked, apart from Charlie Chapin, because that might be weird.

-What are your style Do’s and Don’ts?

These are just my personal ones: Don’t wear too much make up - accentuate one part at a time.

Don’t wear shoes that stop at your ankle or have a strap there - they make your legs look half the length.

Do buy vintage.

Do have something which says “this is me” - something particular to your style and keep it forever.

Don’t shop at Primark if you can help it, it doesn’t go towards anything meaningful or positive, and everything is made in China.

Do look after you nails - I’ve got a thing for good nails.

-What is the best piece of fashion advice you have ever received?

Who is your customer, who is your woman, what is she all about?

Now go and design for her!

Design clothes that people can wear.

-If you could invite 5 people to dine with you, who would they be, what would you cook/ listen to and how do you think the evening would go?

Katherine Hepburn, Charlie Chaplin, Leonardo di Caprio, Che Guevara and Coco Chanel. I would cook pasta with truffles, prawns, chilli and olive oil and listen to my “Dinner” playlist on my I-pod which has quite a bit of The Gotan Project going on. The party would end up being one communistically stylish laughing affair...and everyone would

-What does the future hold for Marina Guergova?

The future is exciting! I am working on setting up my proper label called “Marinsky”, my Bulgarian nickname, and working towards my capsule spring/summer 2012 collection. Look out for it in the near future and get excited...hopefully, get very excited.

Spotlight On Marina: -Favourite place in the world: Anywhere where adventures are to be had with good friends...and South of France.

-Biggest weakness: My boyfriend George.

-My biggest inspiration: My father and mother.

-Key to happiness and success: Love, health, fun, self-belief and great determination.

-Favourite piece in my wardrobe: Charlotte Olympia “Piano” shoes, Sykes silky cream top and green high-waisted Chanel flairs.

-Biggest style crush: Yves Saint Laurent

Jasper Garvida: DESIGNER Jasper Garvida’s CV Born: Manila, Philippines Educated: Central St. Martin’s Work: Creative Director (Jasper Garvida) Collections: AW09 Metropolis,

SS10 Las Meninas,

AW10 Venus

-What made you decide to become a Designer?

I have always dreamed of becoming a fashion designer but growing up in a very academic family, I never considered fashion as a real profession until I came to London to study at Central St. Martins.

-How did you become a Designer and what advice would you give someone wanting to become a fashion designer?

One must be passionate about fashion. As it is a very difficult industry, have a constant desire for knowledge and perfection. Fashion evolves over time, one must be able to be inspired by the moment and capture it through fashion. Hard work and implementing one’s knowledge and skills into ones work are essential. There are constant deadlines; one must be able to deliver at all times.

Be inspired and inspire others.

-How would you describe your Project Catwalk experience?

I took part in the show not with the intention of winning but to showcase what I could do as a designer. It was daunting for me because I had to expose

myself and more so my personal life. I was not confident in my own skin and was afraid that once I exposed myself, it would be to my own detriment. But fortunately, I have learned to love myself as who I am and flourished. I suppose it was more of a personal journey rather than a professional one. I have met a group of amazing talents who are my friends up to this day.

-Where do you find the inspirations for your collections?

I find them everywhere. I get so inspired constantly that narrowing down ideas are the hardest task when composing a collection. I like to read, watch films and visit galleries.

Inspirations are boundless. I get inspired even in my sleep.

My brain is constantly moving and I refuse to be stuck in just style. I always try and put my all in everything that I do.

-Your A/W 2010 show was one of my favourites! How did the collection and show production come about?

I visited the Natural History Museum and saw a malachite stone which was the beginning of the collection. The colours reminded me of Art Deco and led me to do the research of that period. The 1920‘s with a modern twist. So I looked at

Sonia Delaunay and the architecture of the time such as the Chrysler building and applied them into the designs. As a result, I created a very structured, monochromatic, sculptural and opulent collection.

-How do you decide each season what you are going to design?

I start with the mood of the moment. Understanding what is out there and capturing the mood of fashion. I tend to think of the next big trend will be. This is how, in my opinion, I distinguish myself from the rest.

I have always been different and forward thinking. I refuse to be stuck in one style or look.

It is important for me to grow as a designer and as an individual. Therefore, I am in constant search for new developments and techniques.

-How would you define your label and what it represents?

I would describe it as Art and history personified through fashion. I do a lot of intricate work. I offer a style that is unique and encapsulates the moment which I hope to be considered the ‘classics’ of the future.

-What has been your favourite and worst moments in your career?

Every day is my favourite mo

ment. I enjoy learning even through my mistakes and enjoy my achievements. My life and my career are entangled into one. I have no regrets and am looking forward to the future. My best is yet to come!

-What are your style Do’s and Don’ts?

Do always pay attention to detail, and accentuate your figure.

Don’t ever dress down, or underestimate embellishments.

-What has been your biggest challenge to date?

Moving to London was my biggest challenge to date. I left my family in Canada to study and pursue a career in London but I am glad that I did.

-If you could invite 5 people to dine with you, who would they be, what would you cook/ listen to and how do you think the evening would go?

I would invite Coco Chanel, William Shakespeare, Charlie Chaplin, Alexander the Great, and Anna Mouglalis. We would drink champagne and eat caviar and oysters, whilst listening to Modern Classical music. The evening would end up in a big argument with everyone fighting and crying at the end.

-Noir Magazine is all about British fashion, what is it about the fashion world in the UK and London in particular that influences you?

British fashion, certainly in the past few decades has been and continues to be full of energy and excitement. London has certainly provided me the ability to be artistic in my own right. I love London and it will always remain close to my heart because it has opened so many doors for me, both personally and professionally.

-Is there any designer or individual who inspires you, either in your designs or work ethic?

Karl Lagerfeld is one of the most influential and important designers of today. His drive and passion for the industry is unparalleled.

-How would your family and friends describe you?

A perfectionist, generous, and loving person.

-What is your personal style like?

My personal style has evolved through the years. As I grow older, I try to age gracefully.

I wear less cluttered, more streamlined, tailored pieces.

Spotlight On Jasper: -Favourite place in the world: Home -Biggest weakness: None, I turn my weaknesses into strengths.

-Career I would have chosen if not a designer: I could never see myself doing anything else -Key to happiness and success: Balance in life and a healthy diet.

-Favourite piece in my wardrobe: My white shirt.

-Biggest style crush: People who disregard trends in preference for personal style.

-What is the best piece of fashion advice you have ever received?

JUST BE YOURSELF! -Can you give us any insight into your Spring/Summer 2010 collection?

My Spring/Summer collection is inspired by 1950’s Paris and the beatnik movement, combined with the silhouette of Degas’s ‘Ballet Dancers’. It incorporates slim-fitting tops and organically interlaced bodices with full pleated kneeskimming skirts and sweeping curves.

-What does the future hold for Jasper Garvida?

The future holds more challenging and boundary pushing collections that evoke all the senses.

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Dominic Clarke: PHOTOGRAPHER Dominic Clarke’s CV Born: 1987 London Educated: Photography Degree at the University of Westminster Work: Mostly Fashion Photography

-What made you decide to become a Photographer?

We all become ‘photographers’ when we pick up the camera. I’ve made it a focus in life I guess because I’m too visual and I have a “let’s do this” attitude with anything that I like.

-How did you become a Photographer and what advice would you give someone wanting to become a Photographer?

I looked at my favourite images and tried to understand why I liked them and why they were successful. When I got my first manual camera at the age of 16 I became obsessed with shooting in available light and often low light - which is such a good way of adding mood and atmosphere to a shoot. Some advice would be to always try to show that you’re capable and creative, especially when building you vital portfolio.

-Where do you find the inspirations for your photography?

I’m quite reactive to atmosphere if it’s on location. Some times it’s work by other photographers.

-How would you define your style of photography and what it represents?

My photography can be anything but glamorous and glossy. I think I work more with a classical sense of beauty, perhaps romantic and sometimes there is a calm darkness.

-What has been your favourite and worst photoshoot?

Ha-ha the favourite will change but looking back at it all, it was this little studio Test shoot earlier this year. The last ten minutes of actual shooting I had this beautiful connection to the model. The scene could have been in a movie with Siboney by Connie Francis as the soundtrack. It was full of slow movement and Gazes.

No worst shoot since I’ve learnt a lot from the ones that were hard to get through.

-What has been your biggest challenge to date?

It has been a gradual climb so there was nothing too big.

Saying that, it did take me a while to get that first printed editorial. And it is quite a big deal to understand how magazines might look at the Designer credits in a fashion story almost before they look at the images that you send them.

-Noir Magazine is all about British fashion, what is it about the fashion world in the UK and London in particular that influences you?

Well I did go to the same school as Vivienne Westwood.

I wouldn’t really mind if I had to stay in London my whole life and I’m not that in to American vogue ha-ha. We’ve got the best Schools for creativity so there’s some good energy at the younger level which is exciting.

-Is there any photographer who inspires you, either in your designs or work ethic?

Paolo Rover, Lina Scheynius, Christopher Doyle, Marlene Marino, David Bellemere off the top of my head.

-How would your family and friends describe you?

Lazy and Ambitious at the same time.

-What is your personal style like?

Dark, sometimes rock influenced.

-What are your style Do’s and Don’ts?

Do what you want as long as it’s not fake like... Katie Price

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-If you could invite 5 people to dine with you, who would they be, what would you cook/ listen to and how do you think the evening would go?

Hannah Holman, Frida Gustavsson, Gemma Ward, Sophie Willing and Jacob K. We’d get junk food, fruit and sweets... I would bring my guitar and they’d be forced to listen to my music. I’d also bring a camera and do a shoot with them, the fruit and sweets and Jacob will style it.

-What is the best piece of fashion advice you have ever received?

I think I’ve never asked for fashion advice.

-What does the future hold for Dominic Clarke?

My Bed since it’s 2:20 am now. France tomorrow, then I’ve got two shoots planned.

I have no idea what comes after that. I told myself that I won’t have a break until I’ve done at least four more editorials.

Spotlight On Dominic: -Favourite place in the world: Fryent Park -Biggest weakness: Secret -My biggest inspiration: Light -Key to happiness and success: Do what you love…well.

-Favourite piece in my wardrobe: Biker Jacket -Biggest style crush: Alice Dellal I guess.

S D N TRE

THE HANDMADE WAY

Models are hitting this season’s catwalk wearing all kinds of knitted accessories from headbands to collars, and with the slouchy jumper now teamed with luxe evening gowns, knitwear has never been hotter. The independent sellers who use online selling platforms such as Etsy.com have long reigned supreme with passion for their craft and a no-holds-barred creative streak. So if you want to be on trend this coming season, do it the handmade way.

Scarves and cowls are the simplest way to feature knitwear in your look. Take a cowl like the ClickIT collar, $29 by iLE AiYE, and mix it in with your current wardrobe. The leather adjuster gives it an urban feel, making it the perfect match for a tweed coat. As well as accessories, iLE AiYE offers hand knitted clothes. The red crossover tank top, $65, is perfect for the transition into Autumn, easily worn over long sleeved cotton tops for a layered look.

For headwear DollyKnits is the place to go with her pompom hats and striped bows. There’s something about a hair bow that gives a plain outfit a quirky vibe and the Pretty Red Alice Bow, $16 by DollyKnits is perfect for everyday. If you want to stand out a little more, her stripy Knotted Sailor Bow, $24, can be dressed up with a strapless mini dress or dressed down, paired with some jeans and sneakers.

For more information visit Ileaiye.etsy.com and Dollyknits.etsy.com.

Handmade Hauls

By Katherine Beeks

Upcoming Events Feeling a little crafty?

Here are a few of the upcoming events on the craft calendar.

Edinburgh Festival Dazzle 6-30 August 2010 Traverse Theatre Atrium, Edinburgh Entry is free.

For more information visit Dazzle-exhibitions.com Warp + Weft 2: From Hand Loom to Production 4 September 2010 – 8 January 2011 National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre, Wales Entry is free. Visit Museumwales.ac.uk/wool.

Origin 2010: The London Craft Fair 23-29 September 2010 Spitalfields Market, London A single day pass costs £10, but only £8 if you book in advance.

For more information visit Originuk.org.

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These sterling silver and resin rings from Quercus Silver make a statement with their simple shape and bold colours. Crafted by designer Su Trindle, each ring is lightweight, custom made and cost approximately ÂŁ37 each. The only question is, will you get the smooth or the carved?

Lupin, a British felt shop founded by young designer, Laura Howard, sells the most exquisite flower brooches that are perfect for accessorising a folk-style bolero or a bag. Laura cuts and sews each item she sells by hand. Pin a few of these pretties on and feel every inch the bohemian princess. From ÂŁ8.50. Also available as headbands. Visit Lupin.folksy.com.

Artisan Focus In a cottage in rural Surrey, writer and journalist Gabrielle works hard on her newly launched handmade business, The Green Gables.

Her signature floral buntings, reusable tote bags and pretty children’s aprons are enough for anyone to start longing for warm summer’s in the countryside. Here, she shares what inspires her.

What are your first memories of crafts and making things?

If I go right back to the beginning it wouldn’t be far off mud pies! But as I wasn’t one for getting dirty I filled coffee jars with flower petals, leaves and water, and then presented the ‘potion’ to my mum as perfume.

When I was a little older I loved to make

felt bookmarks and design my own stationery with coloured pens on plain paper and envelopes.

Who or what influences you creatively?

I’m quite a fan of the mid-century lifestyle, there’s something about the post-war era that fascinates me. Nothing was taken for granted

and that means huge creativity emerged.

I love the make-do and mend attitude and, of course, vintage fabrics are beautiful. There are a few blogs that I love reading, Kirtsyneale. typepad.com and Abeautifulmess.typepad.com to name just two. But really inspiration can be found anywhere- in a walk on the fields with my dog, looking through

my mum’s vintage clothes or even in a conversation with a friend.

What do you listen to during the design process?

Upbeat music that I can sing along to increases my productivity no end! At the moment I’m playing Glee albums and The Boat That Rocked soundtrack a lot.

Where do you go when you need to be inspired?

For more information about The Green Gables visit www.thegreengables.co.uk.

If I’ve hit a block, I try to do something completely different and not think about it. That’s where the dog comes in handy!

A walk through the fields and wood with her clears my head, raises my spirits and quite often I’ll be struck by an idea when I least expect it.

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BRITISH STYLE ICON: KATE MOSS

By Katie Wozniak

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hen Katherine Anne Moss was born into the world on the 16th of January 1974, little did anyone know the impact that she would have on British fashion in the next 30 years. Kate Moss grew up in Croydon, London and was never recognised for her academic ability, only managing to scrape through her GCSE’s.

A

ged only 14, Moss was discovered by Storm Management at JFK Airport in New York on the return from a family holiday. Her career began with black & white photographs taken for British ‘style bible’ magazine ‘The Face’, in an article titled ‘The 3rd Summer of Love’. By the time Kate was 15, she was gracing the pages of British magazines, kickstarting a new hype of skinny, short, waif-like models, rebelling against the supermodels of time, which were known for the curvaceous and tall figures. The ‘grunge’ period was born and the ‘Generation X’ model icon was thrown into the limelight, cultivating in an edgy, rock chick image. This appealed to many onlookers and she quickly became one of fashion’s most recognisable faces thanks to contracts with Calvin Klein, Burberry and YSL and became a regular in fashion magazines such as Vogue, with her first appearance on the cover in 1993.

S

ince then, Kate has gone from strength to strength, landing contracts with Gucci, Rimmel, Christian Dior, Burberry & Chanel to name a few.

K

ate has always been at the cutting edge of style, proven in November 2006 when Kate won the ‘Model of the Year’ prize from the British Fashion Awards and further won the ‘Fashion Influence Award’ in America in 2005, prompting her to launch her own label for British high street retailer, Topshop. This hugely anticipated collection was launched in 2007 which featured pieces inspired by her own style. It has been proven

to be hugely successful; and has seen Kate pick up the ‘Glamour Woman of the Year: Entrepreneur of the Year’ award for the range. Collections are continually being launched, season by season, making these pieces the ‘must have’ buys for high street bargain worshipers. ate is not only well known for her modelling and fashion career, she is also a supporter of many charities including Breakthrough Breast Cancer & Cancer Research UK, designing t-shirts and jewellery items for high street stores, with all proceeds going towards the charities.

K

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espite being hugely successful in the fashion world, Moss has struggled with the personal aspects of her life, namely relationships with actor Johnny Depp, Billy Zane and Jefferson Hack with whom Kate had daughter Lila Grace in 2002. he most influential and well publicised relationship was that of ex Libertines front man Pete Doherty, which saw them get engaged during a whirlwind romance. Kate and Pete were a tabloids dream, ‘she was the coolest woman in Britain at the time, and he was the coolest man in Britain at the time, and the two of them just kind of found each other’ stated NME editor, Conor McNicholas.

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eptember 2005, saw Kate lose many of her major modelling contracts with several international companies including Chanel & Burberry, after being photographed snorting several lines of cocaine. Moss swiftly ended the relationship with Doherty, realising that being with the bad boy of music at the time would taint her career and have negative repercussions for her family. Kate has since settled down with The Kills front man, Jamie Hince and has managed to stay out of the public eye for the wrong things. ndoubtedly the most iconic and controversial British model of this generation, fascination with Moss’s life be it, personal or professional will inevitably continue to grow. Kate

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has become more than just a supermodel, she is a brand, being able to use her name alone to sell clothes and perfume to fans that are eager to be connected to her. After 20 years in the business, Kate Moss is still recognised as a style icon, not just to her generation but the younger generation and older generations too.

With her knack of ‘thrown together’ chic, Kate has a way of looking like she has just thrown on whatever was lying on the floor and looks amazing for it. Her denim cut-off shorts are almost an icon themselves! Paired with a ripped top and studded, fringed waistcoat, Mossy can still pull off the rock Chick look at 36. Yes she is 36! Who would believe it!?

“

Kate is a role model for me and my style because not only just she rock at putting together a look which shouldn’t but does work, she thinks outside the box, she doesn’t follow trends or labels, she wears what she wants when she wants, and that is what’s so unique about Kate and her style”, says Noir Editor, Leanne Milligan. “My favourite outfit of Kate’s? the back vintage Chanel dress with stars she wore to her 34th birthday party, typical Kate chic!” o how do we achieve the Moss effect? Simples, follow these guidelines to get the Moss Factor:

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- Denim, denim and more denim: whether as shirt, waistcoat, shorts or those grey skinnies, Moss never goes a day or two without denim.

- Effortless: you shouldn’t look like you have spent 4 hours getting ready (which I know we all do), it should look like you’ve grabbed n ran, it shouldn’t look like you’re trying too hard. Unkempt hair on the red-carpet, check, tears in your outfit, check people!

- Trend rebel: don’t be a slave to the trends. Mix vintage with designer, high street and anything you can find which doesn’t make you look like a carbon copy mannequin.

- Mix and match: textures, prints, jewels…mix it all up!

On the Stree Where did you buy your blouse from?

- TKMaxx – great for bargains How would you describe your personal style?

- Super-smart for work and extremely casual otherwise – I’m usually found in a pair of Converse and a hoody on my days off What encapsulates British style for you?

- Kate Moss’s wardrobe, she is a style icon for Britain What’s your favourite place to shop?

- Zara What’s the best thing about Britain?

- The friendly people!

How would you describe your personal style?

- I like to look quite smart, and mix current and vintage pieces together Where’s your favourite place to shop?

- American Apparel for basics, and vintage shops for bigger items

Joanna, 27, team manager, from Poland

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Ellie, 15, student

Talk me through where your outfit is from.

- My bag and bracelet are second-hand, my shirt is from American Apparel and my shoes are from Office What do you love about British style?

- The diversity and variety of cultures and eras – everyone is influenced by different things and not afraid to dress how they want

et with Noir

By Jessica Shepherd What sums up British style for you?

- Anything Kate Moss wears How would you describe your personal style?

- Cheap and cheerful!

What’s your favourite place to shop?

- A Manchester boutique called Thunderegg What do you miss most about Britain when you’re on holiday?

- A good cup of tea

Where is your coat from?

- Burtons, actually – not somewhere I usually shop, but this coat was a great find What single item do you think epitomises British style?

- The tweed jacket, as part of the ‘country gentle man’ look Where do you shop, mainly?

- Thrift and charity shops How would you describe your style?

- Retro

John, 37, freelance illustrator

Jenny, 27, student nurse

Lucy, 26, Receptionist

Where is your coat from?

- A charity shop – I buy most things second-hand How would you describe your style?

- Thrown together from whatever random stuff I find!

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Stella McC

the power of a good bit of tailoring and some serious attitude. Oh, and accessories. Always accessories. I myself disregard the first few sightings of this, as one might try to ignore the first few flashes of wit and imagination in a sickening popular television programme, but as time goes on, those flashes turn to fixtures, and one finds themselves loving each deliciously bitchy line and even downloading Don’t Stop Believin’ onto iTunes. But I really believe in, and love this trend. It’s got the throwback to sleek, black minalimism that so epitomises the fashion world to the uninitiated (well, one who has never seen a Galliano runway show would presume that), combined with the modern, quirky cool that makes it so lust-worthy and definitely worth a pop.

Just remember to contrast; a tailored jacket with your joggers, a chunky necklace and a flash of sequins to jazz up a plainer base. And always, always heels. This trend simply cannot work with flats (if you shy away from shoes with inches attached, this is not for you). Show me someone who’s trying to work it in pumps and I’ll show you someone on the way to the gym.

Stella McCartney

Long gone are the days of jersey being shunned from the catwalk, or jogging bottoms being married only with a muddy trainer and a Croydon facelift. What was once the ultimate in loungewear (however Juicy Couture tried to dress it up with neon velour and diamantes) has become the ultimate in chic party wear, and for all the effortless ease of the look, sportswear is perhaps second to only to double denim in the tricky trend stakes. Okay, maybe you have the money for a pair of soft, grey marl Isabel Marant slouch harems, and for a killer Nicholas Kirkwood to give the look some teeth, but for those of us with budgets that lean slightly more towards the Primark than Pucci end of the spectrum, is this trend still feasible? Or will you be relegated to gulping down another mini whoopee cake (cupcakes are so last year, didn’t you know) as you try to numb your envy of that girl across from you, coolly posing in her calf-skimming, oh this old thing?, tailored exercise trousers. For the fashion sceptics among you, I beg of you: I understand that trend may very well leave you cold and smugly slipping into your sensible shoes, but try and consider this from a logical perspective. Surely a basic rule of true style lies in taking something so out there, so unwearable and making it, in fact, not only versatile and desirable, but chic too?

And making men and women reconsider the hideous garments that usually only see the harsh artificial light above the cross trainer as something hip is itself a testament to

artney

. . . g n i v I’m Lo

...Easywear sportswear

By Daniela Morosini

A Week in the life of a...

Monday my eyes, I get up ing struggle to open rn mo ay nd Mo ing ects I’m working on After the recurr emails for few proj on up h tc to as it’s ca to ce s I’m subscribed og bl early for a chan d an s er tt le eck out news industry opinions. at the moment. I ch current trends and on te da to up ep so important to ke ive personal ing with a prospect et me ing rn mo a r d fo have coffee and I then get dresse erhaul. We sit and ov be ro rd wa a r fo aire about client who is looking my initial questionn s er sw an e sh d an nts is successdiscuss what she wa wearing. Everything is e sh es th clo of kinds st look at her life style and what meeting and the fir is ys al an ur lo co for a ful and we book in on Friday. be ro existing ward outfits the final parts of ct lle co to s op sh e I go to th denim! These are After the meeting, which the theme is of t oo sh righton. ’s ow rr mo vintage shops in B e th being used in to in ms ge me so know and I find ets and before I mainly accessories of the indoor mark s ve ca e th . in me ho ing ad I get lost in root and it’s time to he e brief, and more, th d lle lfi fu ve ha it, I research on a good few hours of r fo t fla my in e fic ne a shoot in I go back to my of up. As I haven’t do ng mi co t oo sh s es dr history books an upcoming period basics and get my to ck ba go to ve ha were used in this area before, I d accessories that an s ur lo co , es ap ing sh wigs so I tist is keen to use out! I look at vary ar p -u ke ma d an ir The ha Victorian England. my suppliers. l ia nt te s/my laptop, I plan research po my head in the book eded th ne wi g s hin ur yt ho er w ev fe kit contains t After a good is yl st my k ec ch things that wing day, l, as well as many mo outfit for the follo to ce ra pa to rs nipple cove ill waiting for the which ranges from ndy one day. I’m st ha in me co uld co t won’t be used bu ock feathers! day I use my peac e for the morning everything is in plac re su ke ma d an er ov I do a final once d. be to and head

Brighton from my window !!

Stylist

By Laura Grant-Evans

Tuesday A 6am start as I get up and have a big breakf ast (an absolute must before a big shoot as it's anyone's guess as to whe n you're going to get lunch).

I do a once over on all my kit and pack up the car.

I arrive on location whi ch is a beautiful countr y pile (courtesy of the make-up artist, Nina's Mum for the day) 1 hou r before call time so I time to steam all the clo have thes and lay out every thing according to the mo who will be wearing them del and arrange the accesso ries on my accessories table. This is my favou rite part of the day be cause everything looks organised and beautiful. so The models arrive and I have a quick chat wit h the make-up artist to confirm looks and shots that will be completed over the day.

I then head out to sco ut the vast grounds wit h the photographer, Jenny and decide upon final loc ations. We had a shortl ist of 4 which needs to reduced to 2. Jenny has be a clear idea of what she wants and if it weren't for the 40 minute walk in Wellingtons, which did n’t quite compliment my mid-length dress, betwe black en the two locations, we would have been done ver quickly. y Back at the house, we have a quick refuel of tea and Haribo before almost-ready models get the their lippy done.

It's then up to me to get the models into their ou tfits and we head out to the first location. Every thing goes swimmingly ap ar t from a stubborn tree branch that needs tying back (using string from my trusty kit)

Wednesday I'm up a bit later than usual, as I don't have an appo I take a leisurel intment until 10 so y couple of hours to get ready whic meeting a new clien h is a blessing as t and it’s vital to I’m give a super styl sion. I meet a ne ish first impresw designer who ha s just graduated of Brighton and ha from The Universi s produced a highly ty -acclaimed first co the name of House llection under of Quinn. We have a hugely successf organise a shoot ul meeting and we for the following we ekend. Working week and parcel of being en ds come as part a stylist especial ly when you’re star essential to stay ting out so it’s enthusiastic.

I have a long lunc h with James, who is helping to reva Recently I am be mp my website. ing schooled in all th ings computer rela learnt the huge va ted and have lue it has in this industry. Blogging networking, and on , tweeting, social line portfolio, the list in endless. B by my meeting, I uoyed up and inspi head home and sp red end hours on my la ptop!

My housemate Tom ready for the Hanbury Ballroom in a vintage 1940s suit.

Thursday I wake up early today as I have a long day shopping with a personal client. The client lives in Brighton so I am extremely well clued up on the local shopping area. However, as I’m not meeting her until lunchtime, I head to the shops and do some prep work. With this client, I have already performed a colour analysis and done a severe wardrobe clear out. Having spent a lot of time with her I know exactly what she wants from her new wardrobe and how she wants to feel. This is essential otherwise the actual shopping trip could prove very long and fruitless. Having assessed what’s around in the shops that are budget appropriate, I head to our meeting place. We have a very full but fun afternoon. My client has decided to extend her budget due to a recent bonus at work meaning I get to spend a lot more money for her!

Nina-Gabriella Selby, hair and make-up artist in action

Me scouting for locations

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I head back to my flat exhausted but having to perform a quick turnaround as I’m meeting my friends in less than two hours. Although a social night out, we are going to the re-opening of The Hanbury Club a beautiful old building in the Kemp town area of Brighton, which has been renamed The Brighton Ballroom and is restored to its former glory as the retro and cabaret club of the south. This presents a grand blogging opportunity for me so I pull on one of my favourite 50s style vintage dresses and armed with my camera, I leave the house for the picturesque walk along the seafront to the venue. It’s beautiful and the ladies (and gents) do not disappoint. The Brighton Ballroom looks like a vast vintage walk-inwardrobe with sparkly accessories galore. I get some great shots for my blog and head home late but satisfied.

Friday Despite my late night I have to be up brigh t and early for my me a new client. I will be eting with going to her house in Haywards Heath to pe colour analysis and de rform a termine exactly what she needs. Going to so house requires a smar mebody’s t outfit but must not be too intimidating so my time getting dresse I take d and deleting any sig ns of last night from my face!

At the meeting, we loo k at skin tone, body sh ape and what the clien She is already a very t likes. clued up woman but ne eds some help with so events she is going to. me I confess that I parti cularly like this part the job to her; shoppin of g for other peoples pa rty dresses is a little dream come true! We girls really hit it off and I’ m very much looking for our shopping day in a ward to few weeks time.

After my meeting I ca n finally become excit ed about my pending hol I’m heading to Ibiza iday; that evening with my sis ter. I drop past the and buy some last min shops ute purchases that se em essential at the tim sure I’ll use the set e. I’m of six transparent pla stic bottles in differen shapes and sizes! I t arrive home in a slight panic as there are ’or piles of clothes waiting ga nised’ to be popped in a suitc ase but everything go smoothly. The trip to es Ibiza is predominantl y for a rest but I’ll to network so stuff a be hoping stack of business card s into my bag and hea meet my sister. I’m ve d to ry much looking forward to my holiday but can’t but think there may be help a few more fabulous ou tfits in my suitcase tha can physically wear in nI seven days. Well, ever y girl needs a choice!

The Brighton Ballroom

at My client realising th her!! the colour pink suites

Models in the wood

shed

V&A EXHIBITION

RAPUNZEL, RAPUNZEL LET DOWN YOUR GO

By Marion Sauvebois

Having grown up in France, where Grace Kelly is more famous for her lonely life as a glorified housewife forced to abandon her acting career by an ill-tempered husband than for her sense of style, I was curious to find out what an exhibition like Grace Kelly: Style Icon might have to offer to the public.

Entering the exhibition is a strange experience. The relative darkness of the hall in which the dresses are displayed on headless models creates a somewhat mournful atmosphere which certainly falls short of the promise to dazzle and amaze the audience.

Grace Kelly’s personal effects are laid bare in front of us: the understated silk dresses she wore at the height of her fame in Hollywood, the sumptuous maternity clothes designed especially for ‘Princess Grace’ by Yves Saint-Laurent and Marc Bohan, a wide selection of her sunglasses, hats and shoes and the Hermes bag which was soon to be known all over the world as the ‘Kelly’ bag. Attention to detail is palpable and even her famous collection of white gloves which earned her the nickname ‘The Girl in White Gloves’ and the vanity case she took with her on her eight-day boat trip from America to Monaco are there for the world to see.

I expected to be mesmerized by such a display of one of a kind couture pieces, envious of her famous velvet and silk turban hats but I was merely overwhelmed by a feeling of sadness. This was a mausoleum and despite the assortment of objects and garments in the room there was clearly something missing and this something or someone was Grace Kelly. As to the morgue of lifeless mannequins wearing her clothes and the collection of photos of Hitchcock’s former muse here posing with several dignitaries in Monaco there holding one of her children in her arms, they simply do not do her justice and fail to capture Grace, the woman, whose absence is the elephant in the room.

Only two clips of a newsreel showing the young princess performing her royal duties, and pro-

jected at the end of the exhibition, truly allow us to glimpse at her personality. In a particular one, we discover Grace looking out of her depth, shying away slightly from a mob of photographers, gripping her coat as if to protect herself. However, this snatch of her life, which could mean so much if used adequately, seems to have been placed there by accident, between extracts of Rear Window and High Society.

The exhibition is in essence a fairy tale depiction of her life. Starting with her dream wedding to Prince Rainier III of Monaco (note that her wedding dress is not on display) the argument throughout is that Grace Kelly was ‘meant’ to be a princess; one of the many explanatory notes scattered around the

OLDEN HAIR...

room actually says that the aristocratic and upperclass characters she played on screen anticipated her future role! This indefatigable endeavour to turn Grace Kelly into a some sort of one dimensional twentieth century Jane Eyre—admittedly more agreeable to the eye and actually interested in fashion— whose new role as Monegasque princess came easily and naturally to her despite all evidence to the contrary renders the whole experience extremely frustrating.

What about the person behind the clothes? The woman who the day after she married saw a ban placed against her movies in Monaco? The woman whose life was changed to the extent that the Vatican condemned her acting career and put pres-

sure on her to abandon it altogether? The woman whose sense of style and notoriety were used by her husband to turn his principality into the playpen for the rich and mighty that it is now known for?

The woman who admitted to missing acting on several occasions and whose sole way of keeping her passion for performing alive was to turn into herself into her very own work of art through fashion?

Prince Rainier III has once managed to estrange Grace Kelly from herself and her ambitions and so has this exhibition many years later. Style over substance is what she is condemned to all over again.

The exhibition is on until 26 September at the V & A Museum in London.

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Ever wondered what it’s like at London Fashion Week? So did I, so off I trotted to the A/W 2010 shows at LFW and boy did they not disappoint! Over the next few pages you will be immersed in the world of catwalk shows, exhibitions,presentations and film screenings…ENJOY!

INSIDE LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W 2010

By Leanne Milligan

Autumn/Winter 2010 London Style THEMES AND INSPIRATIONS

One word sums up the inspirations behind the A/W 2010 shows...chaos. Whether it’s The Road style seen at Aminika Wilmont, nightmare fantasies at Felder Felder, the French Revolution at Jena.Theo, futuristic military at Louise Goldin, chaos and gypsies at Meadham Kirchhoff, extremism and conservatism at Peter Pilotto, chaos at Sass&Bide, Lord of the Flies at Todd Lynn, the abdication of the crown at Craig Lawrence, industrialism at Belle Sauvage.

Eastern influences where a major trend for next season which saw designers drawing inspiration from the east for the A/W collections with Ancient Egypt being the theme at Bryce Aime, magic carpets and Red Sea at Ashish, Arabia at Betty Jackson, Japanese geometric woodblock prints at Christian Blanken.

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COLOURS

Lots of neutrals; blacks, greys, whites, browns were seen at Belle Sauvage, Amanda Wakeley, Topshop Unique and Sass&Bide.

Pops of different shades of red from burgundy, wine to berry, greens and blues as seen at Aminika Wilmont, Daks, Eun Jeong, Matthew Williamson.

Jade and dark greens a la Jasper Garvida and Maria Grachvogel.

FABRICS

Fish skin at bora aksu Wool, felted spikes at John Rocha Jersey at Jonathan Saunders Metal elements Wool at Gemma Slack Chiffon Leather in all shapes and forms = KEY TREND ALERT!

AMINIKA WILMONT CATWALK SHOW FRIDAY 19 FEBRUARY 2010, 1130AM. BLOOMSBURY BALLROOM

THEMES: Cormac McCarthy’s The Road, chaos.

COLOURS: muted colour palette with black, blue, grey, white being the predominant colours.

FABRICS: organic silk jersey, heavy Crepe de Chine, Merino wool knit and stark leather.

London Fashion Week got off with a bang with husband and wife design duo Maki Aminika and Marcus Wilmont’s A/W show at the Bloomsbury Ballroom. Citing The Road as the influence behind the collection, the collection centred on strife and war, brought to life by images and visions of inner conflicts and social unrest.

The duo achieved this vision by mixing the textures of leather, silk jersey, crepe and wool knit and wrapping and pulling the fabric around the body to create the classic Aminika Wilmont silhouette.

The complex digital prints on the dresses and tops all carefully matched the muted, bleak colour palette and theme of the show.

The final pieces parading down the catwalk got wintrier with layered sweaters and feathered

by J. Smith Esq.’s.

headpieces

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK - look out for abstract digital prints in tops, dresses or leggings.

- headpieces (or Hair Furniture as we are now to refer to them) were all over the A/W catwalks.

- buy leather in all forms - slouched and deconstructed leather boots

CRAIG LAWRENCE FILM SCREENING FRIDAY 19 FEBRUARY 2010.

DIGITAL SPACE SOMERSET HOUSE THEMES: the crown and monarchy COLOURS: silver and gold FABRICS: kyototex metallic yarns, filigree gold strands and lots of foil Topshop NewGen designer Craig Lawrence created a short video to showcase his A/W 2010 collection. Quick, stunning and visually stimulating, the short film directed by Mel Bles and styled by Katie Shillingford showcased Lawrence’s unique knitwear techniques.

Lawrence cited Queen Elizabeth I and the power of the Crown as his inspiration and hence produced a slick collection of tight and body conscious outfits but with longer hemlines to create a full look. God save the Queen eh?

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GEORGIA HARDINGE EXHIBITION FRIDAY 19 FEBRUARY 2010 SOMERSET HOUSE

THEMES: Dark, inhibitions COLOURS: neutral but with a splash of red and blue-a recurring A/W trend FABRICS: wires, jersey, quilt French designer Georgia Hardinge launched her A/W 2010 collection with the short film Cage at Somerset House. The film itself was a dark affair; a girl with no inhibitions smoking at a party, these images filtered down into her collection which saw structured pieces with a tough, hard edge with spontaneous combustions of bondage.

Hardinge exaggerates the female form with unconventional shapes and transforms them into wearable pieces. I loved the soft fabric detail underneath which is then caged in with wiring-a representation of the caged in female form?

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK - look for exaggerated shoulder detail jackets - 3D origami detailing - quilt like material - knitted leggings - lingerie dresses

GEMMA SLACK PRESENTATION FRIDAY 19 FEBRUARY 2010.

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT

THEMES: Bram Stoker’s Dracula, the romanticism of the Victorian Era COLOURS: Black FABRICS: cold metal against warm cloth Gemma Slack. Up and coming designer. Collections in Vogue, Italian Vogue, Dazed. Celebrity fans like Rhianna and Fergie. The name to look out for. A designer who exhibits edge and drama in her pieces and mixes unusual materials and visuals. It is no wonder therefore why Gemma’s collection created a massive buzz at Freemason’s Hall.

Slack mixed leather, wool, chiffon and metal to create body conscious silhouettes in the form of mini dresses, trenches and trouser sets. Her collaboration with jewellery designer Katie Rowland saw a clever mix of cold metals and wool with my favourite look being the oversized jumper with 3inch long nails at the elbows. Headpieces were another focus at this show with mowhack inspired leather pieces being showcased. Dance pop trio Chew Lips provided the entertainment at the show and finished off a truly inspiring collection.

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK - leather headpieces - look out for asymmetric shoulders - metal and fabric clashes

BRYCE AIME CATWALK SHOW SATURDAY 20 FEBRUARY 2010,1130AM VICTORIA HOUSE THEMES: Egyptology COLOURS: red wine, ash grey FABRICS: jersey, stud and zip detailing I was crazy excited about the Bryce Aime show and boy did it not disappoint! As soon as the opening sound started we were transported to Ancient Egypt. I felt like I had been time warped to a scene in the Stargate film. The vibe the music created was truly suited to the collection even though it kinda scared me!

The front row itself was amass with visions of creativity with pillbox

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK - layer rich shades of red and black - add a turban to your outfit - look out for digital prints and brocade detailing - extremely sculpted pieces

hats, fascinators and bow headpieces.

Entitled ‘Egyptology’, the sculpted body pieces were enhanced with graphic prints to represent bandaging ‘mummy style’. The show consisted of jumpsuits and two pieces with stud and zip detailing to achieve a modern look.

There were various detailing to the looks at the show including sculpted armour detail, brocade, digital prints and masses of turbans all in rich burgundy and black tones. The layered textures, side draping and shoulder detail were a maaassive hit with me! But my heart literally stopped at the finale piece which resembled stacks of pyramid blocks, every single camera in the house flashed! Wawee!

Everything from the theme, sound, layering and texturing just made the show amazing to watch. Aime is one to watch out for!

BELLE SAUVAGE CATWALK SHOW SATURDAY 20 FEBRUARY 2010 VICTORIA HOUSE

THEMES: industrial, futuristic, chaos COLOURS: purple, green, black, white FABRICS: soft chiffon, crepe, jersey, structured leather detailing My lordy what a rough start to the show us fashionistas had! 30 minutes late! But alas this is fashion, the land of the free and late. The show production set the collection fittingly well with its industrial-esque music (wouldn’t be out of place in a horror movie I tell ya!), with the models sporting slicked backed hair and walking in a manner which jutted out their shoulders and with a mechanical, robotic walk though that could have been down to the 8inch S&M boots they were wearing!

The collection itself was largely futuristic; geometric shapes, sharp lines and leather all defining the collection in a tough meets soft context.

The models strutted down the catwalk looking like Avatar Warrior Princesses with their braided side plaits looking like machine chains and the soft detailing in the chiffon and jersey fabric contrasted with the tough structured look of the leather detail. I love love love the cut-off leggings, emphasis on the waist and those crazy McQueen-esque boots!

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK - heavy machinery prints - contrasting fabric detailing (make sure 1 part is leather) - supersized chunky heels - slicked back plaited hair

JASPER GARVIDA CATWALK SHOW SATURDAY 20 FEBRUARY 2010, 1830.

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT

THEMES: Roaring Twenties, Art Deco COLOURS: green, black white, grey FABRICS: cashmere, silk, organza, patchwork, chunky knits and his signature embellishment I got craaaaazy excited when the music started as it was Jazz-Roaring Twenties style which only meant one thing-Art Deco!! Everyone knows the 1920s is my favourite era and this collection shot right up my lust after list!

Entitled ‘Venus’, the front row saw the likes of Sophie Anderton (who had to rush from Belle Sauvage like me!), Liz McClaren and Beverly Knight gracing it. A household name since winning Sky One’s Project Catwalk, this was Garvida’s third ready to wear collection and boy does he have style! As the lights dimmed everyone turned to the catwalk awaiting the first look. Moments later however we were still in darkness with the sound of crackling static and a radio adjusting coming from the sound system. Then begins a jazzy tune and a satin em-

erald green dress with black cut out triangle and loose full sleeves all making me think of Bugsy Malone!

Taking his inspiration from the Art Deco movement, Jasper incorporated bold steeped forms and sweeping curves resulting in an innovative collection that captured the zeitgeist of if Roaring Twenties. Citing my style icon Louise Brooks as his muse, the models sashayed down the runway wearing black fedoras titled on their head, with their hair curled into a bob and sporting bold dark lips.

Garvida researched 1920s print techniques and used these as well as a green stone ‘Malachite’ which he found at the Natural History Museum as the basis for his prints.

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK - emerald, black, white, grey palettes - embellished art deco detailing - fedora hats - cut out detailing - long satin gloves - leather combinations - curled wave bob hair and dark lips

The collection itself showcased streamlined tailoring and sculpted pieces a la Art Deco architecture juxtaposed with the ruffled detailing to complement the female form. The triangle shaped panels, ruffled detailing, sharp angles on shoulders and sculpted look along with Garvida’s famed embellishments(Art Deco style), completely captured the timeless beauty, style, glamour and spirit of the 1920s! Oh I do hope this collection filters down to the High Street!!

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FASHION AND STYLE

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A FASHIONISTA’S DIARY..

EXPLOITS OF A FASHION JUNKIE

10/7/2010

12/7/2010

12/7/2010 PM

24/7/2010

25/7/2010

Phew, in dire need of a mahusssssive French Martini! Who ever thought setting up a fashion magazine would be this crazy and hard?? Spent all weekend putting the final touches to the editorial staff. Think I have found a bright, fun and fabulous bunch.

Are all the Fashion PR’s in dire need of recharging of the old batteries this week? In contacting PR’s (on official magazine duties of course) I received a crazy amount of “I’ll be out of office on annual leave until...” Oh dear.

Trying to decide what type of Editor-in-chief I should be.

Hmmm tough, scary, and extremely opinionated and stubborn? Hmmm sounds familiar I hear you ponder. Yes indeed I am watching ‘The Devil Wears Prada’. Now while it would amuse me to start calling everyone Emily, fear nor people. I will remain calm, collected, fun and just a little bit clinically diagnosed crazy!

Sleep…something I vaguely remember being able to do, quite well actually! One piece of advice I shall impart on you lovely readers is ‘live now, sleep later’.

Been offered the opportunity to present the fashion segment of a Podcart show in conjunction with Glasgow Podcart and Shootback Productions which will be tied in with ‘Noir’; basically a big mass of creative ideas! It will take place every 2 weeks and we will be bringing you what’s the hottest thing in fashion that week.

26/7/2010

27/7/2010

30/7/2010

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With the Art Director away on adventures up North, it is left with me to make sure we have all the magazine ready for layout when she returns. When she is back we have 4 days to do the final layouts and sort the running order of the magazine and publish it online. In other words, that’s 3 days of no sleep, unlimited supplies of redbull and caaake. Feel free to pop round Chez Fashionista with some proplus and goodie baskets of sugar filled sweetness Have ended up helping the Fashion Editor with her section., was in need of my “Oi” attitude when requesting images. Hmmmm maybe should rethink that 12/7/2010 entry…

Apologies to all the younger generation – aka my sisters who have now questioned my music taste – but in trying to keep the fun mood going I found myself coming across a Vengaboys song! Do you remember the Vengaboys?! “The Vengabus is coming, and everybody’s jumping…” Well I just HAD to start dancing around the PC shouting “We like to party, we like, we like to party”. Wonder what next issues retro song will be?

FASHION ACROSS THE EQUATOR

By Julia Gaw

fashion can translate quite well across continents, and my suitcase didn’t contain any radical items such as fuchsia bike shorts or pastelcoloured jackets.

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nline shopping has really changed our global fashion landscape. An online shopper in Melbourne could be wearing a dress by an independent Swedish designer in less than a fortnight from pressing ‘purchase’. I recently bought a dress from an ex-New York magazine editor who had set up shop in Cambodia, designing beautiful clothes that were made by the local women for the better of their community. My heart swelled at the idea that I was helping a Cambodian community while satiating my hunger to ‘buy buy buy’ at the click of a button. And it was then I realised how minor international distances have become.

H London Fashion photo www.thestylepa.com!

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hen moving across the world, from one hemisphere to another, the thought of fashion and style creates many emotions: excitement at the prospect of new shopping experiences and new designers to discover, uncertainty about liking the fashion that’s on offer or embracing a style that fits the culture, and anxiety about wearing something that seemed to work in one city but garners strange looks and raised eyebrows in another.

It reminds me of the first casual clothes day at high school. Remembering it was the early ’90s and I was only 11… I turned up wearing what I had (with peer approval) for the previous year at primary school: fuchsia bike shorts, a floppy T-shirt and a mauve and lemon geometric-patterned jacket. Saying it now, I could be seen (mistakenly) as a bit of a fashion risk-taker, an edgy dresser with bold style. But back then I was just totally uncool, and ridiculed for my outfit choice by my peers who wore normal things like jeans and T-shirts. Much to my disappointment, I never wore bike shorts again.

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hat was nearly 20 years ago, in the city I have grown up in: Melbourne.

But I relived that moment recently when considering the impending move to London, and the stark reality that I had no idea what was worn on the streets of the UK’s big cities. It turns out I was safe, because these days

owever, we can still identify ourselves and our city’s culture by what we buy, the style we adopt and the taste we develop.

Every city exhales a subtle breath of independent style. The shops may offer the same designer labels, trends and outlet stores as their international neighbours, but try hard enough and you can find a city’s inherent style within its locals and devotees.

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elbourne loves its style culture, and its hipster community. The Melbourne hipster wears (generally speaking) plaid shirts, high-waisted denim (yes, even the men), large black-rimmed spectacles, and buns on the tops of their heads. And a lot of black – which is often quoted as a bit of a uniform for the city – with colour being added in the form of a headband or lapel brooch.

There are so many hipsters spread through the city that you wouldn’t want to make ‘spot the hipster’ a drinking game: you’d be on the

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loor before the night kicked off.

roud to be in a city known for its art and culture, Melburnians love to appear dark and mysterious, often in rather androgynous attire. Having said that, the city certainly has its fashion ‘battle lines’ drawn: the inner north dwellers are generally edgier, and more likely to shop for vintage or pre-loved fashion, whereas the inner southsiders are more focused on designer fashion that holds colour, glitz and glamour. Think vintage Ray-Ban Clubmasters versus gold-rimmed Dolce and Gabbana shades, and you have an idea of the divide.

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ondon seems to have a fashion demographic as spread out as the city’s physical geography. A consequence, I’d say, of the mixbag of travellers, ex-pats, London-

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ers from way back, and new recruits moving in from the outskirts spread throughout. I have noticed lots of florals, sandals, many a maxi dress, and ballet flats – with shorts, skirts, dresses, jeans… ballet flats with absolutely every outfit. If you added London into the sunglass equation above, it would be represented by the Ray-Ban wayfarer, in the new range of colours and patterns.

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n contrast to Melbourne, Britain’s fashion – in the summer months at least – becomes a celebration of colour. Greys evade the skies for so much of the year that its inhabitants seem to be happy bringing sunshine to their lives through their fashion. The lace-up ankle boot, for example, is huge in Melbourne at the moment, and looks set to stay strong through the summer, to be worn with shorts and skirts. But in Britain, when there’s a touch of sun, we all strip down to embrace the heat while we can; no hot ankle boots to be seen. Jumpsuits and maxis are must-have items du jour, to be worn with silver or bronze sandals, or (of course) your trusty pair of ballet flats. Dark and mysterious has its place, but perhaps only in a city that can justify being ‘tired’ of summer after 3 months’ of 30-40 degree days. But good on you, Britain, for embracing the seasons and flaunting your enjoyment of the sunshine through colourful fashion. Bikinis in the city parks, however, is one idea I am still coming to terms with.

Melbourne Fashion Photographer Michael Phams

. . . h t i w e l y My st Jessica Entwistle Jess always has this knack of throwing stuff together and looking amazing! She has at least 5 hairbands which I want to steal from her and I have never met anyone who has as many hair accessorise as me! Let’s check Jess out.

Fashionista: Why did you pick the outfit you wore on Sunday night as a work trip to bowling outfit?

Jess: Because it was simple for somewhere like a quick bite to eat and bowling Fashionista: Do you have any favourite designers?

Jess: Kurt Geiger for shoes, he always has amazing ideas, and always manages to have shoes that look classy, stylish or even casual, just amazing.

Fashionista: Which shops do you usually buy your clothes in?

Jess: Topshop, Zara, H&M and Frasers usually, Frasers is probably the main one as it’s got small concessions of most stores and I don’t need to walk from the bottom of the town to the top lol! And of course, because the fashion in the shops is always up to date, so

you can’t go wrong with shopping in these.

Fashionista: How would you describe your style?

Jess: I don’t really have a specific style at all ha-ha, whatever’s in fashion and I like it, I’ll wear it :) Fashionista: What is the favourite item of clothing that you own and why?

Jess: My Kurt Geiger shoes, they’re like a girls LBD for me, can wear them for any occasion and with anything, good investment I must say!

Fashionista: What are the staple items in your wardrobe?

Jess: Leggings, tops, cardigans, uggs.

Describe your typical outfit for: 1) a first date - depends if it’s

Vital Stats Jessica Entwistle Age :18 Student Size 10-12

casual, leggings, a nice top & boots maybe.

2) a night out - wee dress, cant go wrong!

3) a lunch with friends - casual dress or leggings again maybe.

4) a special event/party - dress definitely!

Fashionista: Who are your style icons?

Jess: I love Lauren Conrad’s style, also Nicole Ritchie’s.

Finish the following in relation to fashion items; I 1) own so many shoes!

2) I wish I could buy a Chanel bag.

3) I’ve always wanted a Chanel bag.

4) am guilty of buying things when I don’t need them.

QUICK FIRE QUESTIONS Shoes or bags? ~ shoes Casual or dressy? ~ dressy Name 1 item which you wouldn’t admit to owning (until now)? ~ a poncho, wow did I think I was cool :P Best outfit you own? ~ hmm, maybe my little white lace dress from Topshop, I love it!

Designer or high street? ~ a little bit of both.

RANDOM QUESTION If you could swap bodies with anyone in the world who would it be with and why?

Ahh tough question, I think it would have to be (depending if they are actually seeing each other), Kristen Stewart, just for Robert Pattinson aha. But if not then probably someone famous like Megan Fox, men LOVE her!

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Dressmaking Fabrics - An Introduction

By Iheoma Okoroma Adam and Eve have a lot to answer for. Since they donned the proverbial fig leaf and were driven out of Eden, wandering around naked has long ceased to be fashionable.

In a bid to cover up and cope with changing times man has worn everything from leaves to the skins of dead animals across his body.

Today however, dressmaking fabrics and textiles are somewhat easier to come by in the form of ready made clothes.

Textiles and fabrics are constantly evolving. Go to any high street vendor and you will be dazzled by every kind of fabric from the stiff to the stretchy, from the sheer to the heavyweight. With all colours and textures present you will see more fabrics than you care to shake your needle at.

Dressmaking fabrics are usually sold by the yard or metre with remnants or ‘roll ends’ frequently found at marked down prices.

Of course if dressmaking is not your thing, you can opt for (as already mentioned) the easier option of buying your garment

ready made from a retailer.

Dressmaking fabrics fall broadly into two categories - natural and man made. Natural fabrics have been around for many centuries and include cottons, wools, linens and silks. Cotton is produced by twisting together strands from the cotton plant and is perhaps the most widely used of the group. It includes flannel and denim and appear in garments from bedlinen to shirts and blouses.

expensive to produce. To make only one pound of silk requires thread from the cocoon of 3000 silkworms (1).

Silk is a popular material for scarves, evening and bridal wear.

The one thing all natural fabrics have in common is that they are readily absorbent so are cool and comfortable during hot and cold climates alike.

This absorbency also meanss that they can be dyed easily to produce many colours and patterns.

The word wool conjures up images of warmth and cosiness and hence its products are used primarily for knitwear and coats. Wool comes from spinning together the fleece of sheep, goats, even llamas. Angora and mohair are examples of wool products. Wool wears well and in water resistant to a degree.

On the other hand synthetic fabrics are non absorbent and this on the surface appears to be a major downfall.

Linen is produced from the flax plant and the fabric can be lightweight and comfortable to wear.

Although being increasingly ‘commonplace’ the word silk still conjures up images of luxury and elegance. Silk is relatively

Nearly all synthetic fabrics are manufactured from petroleum with varying quantities of gas, alcohol and water thrown in. This mixing of additives in various proportions produces a wide array of textiles with dif-

Man made or synthetic fabrics include polyester, acrylic, nylon and elastic. Another group of synthetic fabrics called ‘rayons’ eg. viscose are made from chemically treating cellulose fibres.

ferent finishes and applications.

So what then is the commercial value of synthetic fabrics? Apart from being easier on the purse (usually), they are often blended with natural fabrics to produce blends more versatile and easy to care for than each of the ‘parent’ fabrics. For example it is commonplace to add polyester to cotton. This reduces the tendency of natural cotton to crease and increases its wearability after washing.

The addition of synthetic fibres to natural ones can often help the finished product to ‘hang’ better too.

Both natural and synthetic fabrics are manufactured in light to heavyweight densities weights.

Citations (1) Quote from ehow website – how are silkworms fed

FASHION ‘FAST FACTS’ DRESSMAKING BUTTONS

By Iheoma Okoroma

Did you know?

Buttons are generally disc shaped and used to fasten two pieces of cloth together via a loop or buttonhole, though some are used for decoration only. They are the most common type of fastener anywhere in the world above zips, hooks and eyes and Velcro.

Button making materials range from plastic to glass, china, metal and even rope but today the overwhelming majority are manufactured from polyesters (plastics) to which dyes and waxes are added.

Buttons come in many forms from the common flat two or four holed types to more ornate or novelty buttons. The two and four holes types are typically found on lightweight garments such as shirts are nearly always plastic.

Covered buttons are exactly as that ie covered with the same material as the garment they will be adorning. Because the face of the button is completely covered the button is fastened to the garment via a stalk or ‘shank’ with a hole which protrudes underneath the button. Looking side on these buttons look rather like mushrooms. Longer shanks enable buttons to be used on deep pile fabrics such as those for coats and still be visible.

Rivets are a special type of buttons mostly found on denim garments. They are attached either with a machine or hand held tool. They are made of metal and tend to be hardwearing.

In the UK buttons are sized in lines, with 40 lines to an inch. Typical shirt buttons may therefore be 10 lines or 10L with coat buttons anything up to 38 L..

Buttons can be attached either by hand (laborious except for small jobs) or machine, usually with a special button foot. Since the advent of hydraulic machinery in dress factories, garments can be ‘finished’ in a fraction of the time to that previously.

Where buttons are used as fasteners they need a loop or buttonhole between 3mm and 6mm longer than the length of the button depending on its thickness.

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