ZANZIBAR PHOTOGRAPHS: SAM VOX
LOCAL KNOW-HOW What makes Stone Town a photographer’s paradise? It is naturally a very photogenic place, with its beautiful heritage buildings, the narrow streets and the beach (Forodhani). To me it’s a place of identity. I love the Swahili Arab culture which is my ethnic background. Here, I can learn more about my history and have a deeper understanding of our traditions and the people. What’s your go-to spot for lunch? Ma Shaa Allah Cafe or Lukmaan Restaurant which offer every day authentic Zanzibari dishes using an array of local spices.
What are some hidden gems in Stone Town? Mrembo Spa is my little sanctuary when I need to rejuvenate and recharge. They use traditional remedies and natural product. My favourite masseuse is Asha who is legally blind but is amazing at what she does. There are also so many talented Zanzibari carpenters in town that create amazing woodwork but are often overlooked in the midst of all the imported souvenir stores. My favourites are Suleiman and his team inside the Old Fort. What are your go-to foodie spots around town? For breakfast, Foro Cafe at Forodhani Gardens because it’s inexpensive and the food is really good. Secret Garden at Emerson Spice is a great spot for lunch- the ambiance really transports you back in time. My favourite dish there is the coconut seafood curry. At Ma Shaa Allah Cafe, the prices are affordable and I love their Indian twist to Swahili food. What’s your go-to beach when you need a break from Stone Town? I like Kendwa beach because its picturesque although it can get very busy. I would go for Michamvi, Matemwe and Bwejuu. While the sea is tidal on the East Coast, it tends to be less crowded than the north coast. Any tips for first time visitors? Unless you’ve done considerable research beforehand, do a guided Stone Town tour with a registered company. It will give you a sense of direction and better understanding of the history and culture of Zanzibar. Spend at least two nights immersing yourself in the food and culture here before heading off to explore the rest of the archipelago.
What’s your go-to beach when you need a break from Stone Town? A favorite is a hidden beach in Mwangapwani. It’s only there for a short period of time depending on the day and tide. The waters are beautiful and clear, and it’s a perfect spot for cliff jumping. Any insider tip you would like to share with someone visiting Zanzibar for the first time? Get lost, wander around and be present. If possible, get a local guide. Stone Town is one of those places with a deep history and culture and you could easily walk by vital landmarks without knowing their significance to the island. A local will help you understand the everyday life of the people. What’s your favourite place to photograph in Stone Town? I can never tire of Forodhani beach. To me, it’s the one place that brings the Island together, especially on weekends. I love seeing families come out in their beautiful matching clothes having traveled from nearby villages for a day out at the beach. Occasions like this are what makes this island special and I like being here to document it all.
SAM VOX, Photographer
HAFSA MBAMBA
Owner, Grassroots Traveller (They set up our tours around Stone Town)
NOMAD MAGAZINE APRIL/MAY 2019
43
