Mukima Manor
A Breathtaking New Boutique Hotel with Big Heart
An exceptional hidden gem fuelled by a heartwarming testament to honouring a mother’s legacy.
Mukima Manor is a family-owned boutique hotel, lovingly restored and deeply rooted in a legacy of care and sustainability. The current guardians of Mukima, Anna Campbell and her husband have dedicated themselves to reviving the house and finding ways to protect the 300 acre nature sanctuary that surrounds it, motivated by their love of nature and in honour of Anna’s visionary mother, Leslie Duckworth, who originally restored the house in 2004 and passed away in 2020. In a bid to save the nature sanctuary from being sold and divided up for development, Anna and her husband transformed the house into a boutique hotel and opened the doors to the world in August 2024, with the hopes that this new hospitality chapter will preserve the oasis of pristine nature for years to come.
The Manor invites you to experience an unparalleled escape into this private haven, nestled in the breathtaking Mt. Kenya region. Each of the nine bedrooms in the main house is thoughtfully themed around the local fauna and flora. Two self-catering cottages: The Forest Den, nestled into the peaceful forest and The Boat House perched on the shores of the large lake, both with breathtaking
mountain views. All accommodations have access to the organic gardens, the delicious restaurant and the poolside cafe.
Beyond the elegantly appointed rooms are a wide range of activities. There are over 235 species of bird and friendly game to find on the property, Ol Pejeta is a 15-minute drive away where you can catch the big five, and the nearby Ndare Ngare forest to bathe in waterfalls. The owners have rewilded 100 acres over 25 years and today you can weave through the paths under a canopy of thriving forest. There is tennis, natural rock pools, a giant sauna, massage, cinema room and gymsomething for everyone, from active nature enthusiasts to those looking to simply relax and restore.
Follow @mukimamanorhouse | www.mukimakenya.com
Book your stay: info@mukimakenya.com | +254 (0) 726 332 399
Book an adventure to Northern Kenya
Editors Message from the
Dear Readers,
Every time I type “Dear Readers,” I realize just how much I enjoy writing this note to you. I can’t help but feel like the travel version of Lady Whistledown from Bridgerton, but instead of serving up scandal, I’m dishing out travel gems. Maybe we should consider adding a travel gossip column to our magazine? I digress.
We’re back with another exciting issue, and this time, we’ve curated it entirely in-house to put Nairobi—our home—front and center. At Nomad, we pride ourselves on being connoisseurs of hidden gems, and through this issue, we’re eager to “show off” our expertise. We want to demonstrate what makes us unique in the industry, especially for those of you who relish off-the-beaten-path adventures.
So, get ready to explore our vibrant city and uncover the hidden treasures that make Nairobi an unforgettable destination. Let’s embark on this journey together and fall in love with our hometown all over again!
Continuing with the Whistledown analogy… “You do not know me, and rest assured, you (almost) never shall.”
At Nomad Africa, I've always aimed to use our magazine to spotlight talented and interesting people, rather than putting "Nomad" itself in the spotlight. We prefer to let the stories guide our focus.
But this time, the issue felt a little too close to home, and we couldn’t resist curating it ourselves. As Sharon says, we pride ourselves on being insider guides to hidden gems—and we couldn’t be prouder of the stories we’ve put together for you. From showcasing the beauty of our hometown, Nairobi (with special thanks to the talented photographer Mutua Matheka), to highlighting two incredible brands in Ngare, we remain in Kenya to talk about the vital conservation efforts to save black rhinos in Loisaba Conservancy.
We then take you to the coast for a truly off-the-beatenpath adventure: sailing from Kilifi to Kiwayu. Next, we travel to Tanzania, where our resident photojournalist shares the thrilling experience of sleeping in a tent in the wild for the first time—an unforgettable adrenaline rush. Speaking of adrenaline, we’ve also discovered Uganda’s hidden "land of champions," featuring an amazing kayaking and rafting spot (spoiler: it’s not in Jinja).
We hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed crafting it. Every story in here is close to the heart of the entire Nomad team.
Happy exploring, Sharon, Ludo, and the Nomad Africa team
Spotlighting Jua by Agar : A Hidden Gem from Kenya's Arid North ™
In Kenya’s arid north, prolonged droughts are devastating an already waterstressed landscape, making traditional pastoralist livelihoods increasingly unsustainable. Often overlooked in national development, these marginalized communities are misunderstood as unsafe and unproductive, resulting in a lack of investment. However, Jua by Agar™ is uncovering the potential of this region.
Jua is connected to Agar Ltd, a social enterprise that supports over 500 individuals—primarily women and youth in Isiolo, Laikipia, Marsabit, Samburu, and West Pokot. By training these communities to sustainably collect frankincense and myrrh resins, Jua processes these materials into essential oils and other products, creating economic opportunities.
Originally a commodities agency specializing in gum Arabic and resins, Jua now offers over 15 essential oils, carrier oils, body butters, travel-sized essential kits, hand sanitizer, and organic aloe-based cosmetics. Their
aloe line in particular is produced in collaboration with women’s groups, promoting correct farming methods and sustainable practices.
Moreover, the indigenous plants used in their products contribute to climate solutions. For example, Aloe secundiflora is drought-tolerant, improves soil health, and reduces erosion, helping to restore grazing lands and crop farming. Jua has already revitalized an area equivalent to almost 50 acres, providing stable incomes for hundreds of families once the plants reach maturity.
Jua has been helping clients by mounting both 200 and 500 ml bottles, including glass, on walls using coated stainless steel brackets. This is a game changer, giving hospitality businesses a real eco-friendly, refilling option which drastically reduces the number of bottles used.
Jua by Agar ™ has a store in Village Market (old wing), and more are planned to open in 2025. The aloe based line of room amenities has grown steadily since its launch in 2022 and it's now found in more than 50 establishments, including the likes of the Fairmont Hotels, Movenpick, MGallery, Medina Palms, Kobe Suites Resort, Maji Boutique Hotel, Ocean Beach and Soames to mention a few. The line can also be found at resellers such as Healthy U; Butter Bean, Greenspoon and Joojoo Stores.
In this Issue,
Upcoming Events
Noteworthy events coming up
Hot Shots
Top pictures by African photographers Kapchorwa Unveiled
Running in Uganda’s Land of Champions The Rhino’s Homecoming
Restoring balance in Loisaba
Two Friends on a Boat
Exploring the waters of
Close To Earth
A photojournalism piece Passion, Determination and Creativity
Lehem Interiors and La Casa Complex
Capturing Nairobi
Through the lens of Mutua Matheka
Rafting in Uganda
Exploring the Birira River
East African Brands
A Spotlight on Ngara 24 Hours in Asmara
capital city
NOMAD Issue 44 | October 2024
PUBLISHED BY PURPLE NOMAD, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
CEO Lizzie Wright
HEAD OF CONTENT Ludo Fioravanti
DESIGN Karan Khalsa
CONTENT & COMMUNITY BUILDER Mercy Wakio
HEAD OF BOOKINGS OPERATIONS Laura Valentine
PRODUCT OPERATIONS Ludovica Cipolla
TRAVEL OPERATIONS Grace Ngugi, Cathy Maina, Carol Soi, Ann Wambui
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT & PARTNERSHIPS Nilpa Shah
FINANCE LEAD Wambui Everlyne
SUSTAINABILITY LEAD Sharon Rombo
ENQUIRIES bookings@nomad.africa
@nomadafricatravel
FRAGMENTS
25th October - 10th November
Matheka celebrates Nairobi with "Fragments," a captivating exhibition running from October 26th to November 10th. After 15 years of documenting
Ultra MARAthon
23rd November 2024
Started in 2020, the Ultra MARAthon is a 50km single-day foot race through the conservancies of the northern Maasai Mara ecosystem in Kenya. The race, run either as an individual or as part of a relay team, takes participants through the northern Mara conservancies giving them a unique sporting experience within one of Africa’s jewels. All profit goes towards conservation and community development initiatives in the region.
the city, he presents a fresh perspective through photography, film, and audio-visual elements. Each piece reveals Nairobi's beauty, resilience, and vibrant life, offering an immersive experience that goes beyond traditional sightseeing.
Too early for birds - Tom Mboya
21st November - 24th November
This show invites all to step into Kenyan history and relive the life of Tom Mboya, a prominent Kenyan politician and activist. Mboya championed African Socialism, emphasized equity, social justice, and collective progress. After a successful run in 2019 as a play, the cast reunited to produce a show earlier in August of this year, and are now doing a rerun in November due to popular demand.
Evans Ogeto
Evans Ogeto is a selftaught photographer and filmmaker who traded accounting for the wild. For 9 years now, his work has taken him across Africa, where he’s documented everything with a Canon R6 Mark II in hand. Guided by 'people, places, and passion', he captures the wild through compelling storytelling, he inspires others to dream big, see nature differently, and embrace a deeper connection with nature.
Thomas Mwikya
Thomas Mwikya is a dedicated photographer with a passion for nature and wildlife. Equipped with his reliable Nikon camera, he captures stunning landscapes and wildlife in their most authentic forms. Through his photography, Thomas aims to connect people with the beauty of nature, inspiring them to explore and embark on new adventures.
Njenga
Njenga is an outdoor adventure photographer based in the misty highlands of Limuru, Kenya. With a love for the thrill of paragliding and a passion for capturing breathtaking landscapes, Njenga turns every journey into a canvas of vibrant stories. When not chasing the perfect shot, you’ll find him hiking through tea plantations, camping under the stars, or seeking out new adventures off the beaten path. His work is a visual celebration of freedom, nature, and the wild beauty of untamed places — a true reflection of his adventurous spirit and love for the outdoors.
Kapchorwa Unveiled: Immersive Adventure, Indigenous Culture, and Running Greatness
Daan Oxener, a Dutch social entrepreneur, has lived in Kapchorwa since 2016. He and his wife Eliza manage the Home of Friends Guesthouse. Passionate about immersive travel and community empowerment, Daan
co-founded Run Kapchorwa to establish the area as a premier running and adventure destination, while providing skill-building and job opportunities for local youth and women.
Endless shades of green, countless red dirt trails, and waterfalls around nearly every corner. Exploring Mount Elgon in Uganda, whether by hiking, running, or biking, is an awe-inspiring experience. The cool breeze and gentle sunlight on the flanks of this extinct volcano are truly refreshing. But before I dive into the wonders of Elgon's natural beauty and adventures, let's take a moment to explore another feature that makes Elgon truly unique: its vibrant running culture.
Hiking Sipi Falls (photo credit: Juma Chebet)
Mountainbikers enjoying the amazing trails around Kapchorwa Town (photo credit:
The cradle of Uganda’s running talent
Joshua Cheptegei. Peruth Chemutai. Stephen Kiprotich. Stella Chesang. Jacob Kiplimo. Mount Elgon has nurtured numerous Olympic and World Champions. These athletes live and train in the picturesque surroundings of Kapchorwa Town. This charming mountain settlement, perched at an altitude of 1,900 meters above sea level, likely boasts the highest concentration of champions per square meter in the world!
Secrets behind the running success
The true roots of these champions trace back a little further, to the higher slopes of Kween District. This is the homeland of the Mosopisiek, a tribe of former huntergatherers who lived in the Mount Elgon forest until the 1990s. This was the time when Mount Elgon National Park was officially gazetted, and the Mosopisiek community was relocated outside the forest. The Mosopisiek are closely related to the Sebei people on the lower flanks of the mountain, and all are part of the larger Kalenjin tribe. Beyond the altitude, Mosopisiek elders believe that their history of hunting and the diverse natural diet have played a crucial role in their running success. Fresh mushrooms, wild berries, and indigenous greens are popular items on the runner’s menu. When asked, "What does Uganda need to do to produce more champions?" the Mosopisiek elders have a clear answer: "Give us the forest back!"
Interactive and meaningful Community experiences
The Mosopisiek and Sebei people are known for their respect and hospitality toward visitors. They warmly welcome guests into their community, eager to share their life experiences and skills, whether it's cooking, crafting honey wine, or weaving bamboo baskets. For generations, Mosopisiek women traded these handcrafted baskets for scarce foods on the plains below Kapchorwa. Inspired by their warm hospitality and rich cultural traditions, we offer a diverse range of community experiences. You can cook with the Kapchorwa Mamas, embark on the multi-day Mosopisiek Trail (including homestay), or join the Bee Active Honey Tour with Chemutai, a successful female apiarist. Take your time to fully immerse yourself in the vibrant running culture and village life of Kapchorwa.
Mosopisiek women weaving bamboo baskets along the Mosopisiek Trail (photo credit: Explore Travel Oasis)
Juma Chebet)
Other highlights on (and nearby) Mount Elgon
Mount Elgon and its surroundings are blessed with breathtaking natural beauty, offering a wealth of adventures to immerse in:
• Trek the Peaks of Mount Elgon. The landscapes are diverse, the plant life is unique, and the trails are gentle, making trekking on Mount Elgon a rewarding experience. While it’s possible to complete the trek in two days (returning the same way), we recommend taking four to five days for proper acclimatization.
• Take a Game Drive in Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve. Pian Upe is one of Uganda’s hidden wildlife gems. After decades of severe poaching, Uganda’s secondlargest protected area is experiencing a remarkable revival. You'll have the chance to marvel at endemic bird and mammal species and immerse yourself in the reserve's pristine wilderness.
• Explore Sipi Falls. Although Sipi Falls is the most mainstream tourist activity in the area, it’s popular for good reason. The natural beauty is stunning, and beyond the hike to the falls, the immersive coffee tour is another must-do activity here.
Kapchorwa as a prime running and adventure destination
Kapchorwa means ‘Home of Friends’ in the local Kupsapiiny language. Home of Friends Guesthouse serves as a hub for exploring the Elgon area while supporting the Community through its flagship initiative, Run Kapchorwa. Managed by Kapchorwa native Charlotte, Run Kapchorwa is dedicated to developing running and adventure tourism to empower the Community, with a particular focus on the creation of opportunities for youth and women. According to Charlotte, ‘Running embodies the indomitable spirit of the Kapchorwa people. It inspires greatness and transcends boundaries. We have always lived a little isolated, but running has connected us to the world and made us believe more in ourselves. The future of Kapchorwa as a prime running and adventure destination shines bright’.
Interested in exploring Kapchorwa? You are most welcome! Or as we say in the local Kupsapiiny: Kacitorocòòk!
Sarah, a talented Kapchorwa runner, during a Community running event (photo credit: Collins Cheshewa)
Restoring Balance in Loisaba The Rhino’s Homecoming:
By Mia Ruffo
Four decades ago, the eastern black rhino faced extinction. In 1984, their numbers had dwindled to just 240. But thanks to dedicated conservation and security efforts, that figure has risen to over 1,000. Kenya now holds the third-largest population in Africa, with Laikipia as its stronghold. However, increasing numbers have led to a new challenge: overcrowding in the 16 sanctuaries. This brings us to Loisaba, the latest piece to the puzzle. This iconic animal had been absent for 50 years, wiped out by poaching, so what did it take to bring back a mega-fauna species to this landscape? A dream, a community and 21 rhinos.
The eastern black rhino, native to Kenya, is a keystone species, meaning it plays a vital role in the ecosystem by shaping the landscape and supporting biodiversity. They remain critically endangered, and research shows a target number of 2,000 is needed to withstand threats like climate change, disease, poaching, and habitat encroachment. The Black Rhino Action Plan (BRAP) is an official government strategy committed to their recovery and increasing space. Overcrowding is a major issue, leading to lower breeding rates and an increase in territorial conflicts. Creating new sanctuaries with ideal habitats, strong security, and community support is essential.
To understand the effort behind reintroducing eastern blacks to Loisaba, I spoke with Tom Silvester, CEO of Loisaba Conservancy. Loisaba is a 58,000-acre
protected area situated in Northern Kenya. Originally a cattle ranch owned by an Italian count, the land was converted to a conservancy in 1998 with the vision of integrating conservation and social impact. Reintroducing the rhinos is part of the wider BRAP, but it began as a passion project for Tom. He reflects on his arrival 32 years ago, where he was shown a rhino skull and wondered if there would be a day they could return. Since Loisaba was once home to large numbers of rhinos, it should naturally be an ideal habitat. Rightly, bringing back a species has a process of consent with the surrounding communities. Tom recalls conversations with local elders and community members who shared a deep sense of loss and a desire to bring these majestic animals back, seeing their absence as a wound left by poaching.
Thus began a 5-year approval process, rigorous ecological assessments, and onboarding of major partners, including the KWS and The Elewana Collection, to deliver the vision.
The stakes were high after the failed 2018 translocation to Tsavo East, where all 11 rhinos tragically died. However, in January 2024, 21 eastern black rhinos were successfully relocated over three weeks from various sanctuaries, including Nairobi National Park, Ol Pejeta, and Lewa Downs. This number was researched to be the ideal founder population - 11 females and 10 males of varying ages - to ensure balanced social dynamics for successful breeding. After five months, two females are pregnant, and the first births are eagerly awaited in the new sanctuary, solidifying Loisaba once again as a Big Five destination.
SUSTAINABILITY
Tom shares one memorable story about a particularly strong-willed female rhino who repeatedly broke through the fenced boundary. As a result, the sanctuary expanded the perimeter to incorporate her reclaimed territory. This reflects a key aspect of Loisaba’s vision: connecting the landscapes of Lewa Downs, Ol Jogi, and Ol Pejeta conservancies, which together host the largest population of eastern blacks in Kenya. This connectivity, with rhinos as a keystone species, would have a significant global impact, particularly in terms of climate change mitigation, as it would encompass 750,000 acres of protected land and biodiversity as part of the Kenya Rhino Range Expansion. In line with the conservancy’s motto, "land connected, life protected," it would represent the ultimate success given the growing threat to ecological connectivity. But for Loisaba, conservation goes beyond biodiversity. For long-term success, it must provide tangible benefits to communities.
Tom points out, “We can not expect people to value conservation unless they are part of the process”.
For traditional pastoralists, land is not seen as something to be owned, but rather as a shared resource governed collectively. The fortress conservation model fails because it seeks to exclude people from nature, overlooking that humans are an inherent part of it. Coexistence is key. Tom believes that conservation has the power to transform lives and preserve the Northern Kenyan landscape if it can align with community interests.
Thanks to Amy Vitale and Battered Lens for their stunning images
Loisaba’s community-centred approach recognises the need for intensely protected areas but also understands that people require access to essential resources for livelihood activities like grazing. Additionally, the core conservation area must generate economic benefits, particularly through tourism. Community participation and engagement are central to the model, fostering both emotional and economic investment in conservation. With this approach, Loisaba aims to shift the relationship from human-wildlife conflict to coexistence.
Two friends explore Kenya’s wild northern coast
by Maximilian Mancini
“Over my dead body” was what my girlfriend – coincidentally the editor of this magazine – said to me when I asked her whether she wanted to sail Smackwater Jack up from Dar es Salaam with me. SWJ came into my life in 2022 after I was introduced to an American working for the Embassy in Dar. He was leaving Tanzania and wanted to sell his boat. East Africa might not strike most sailors out there as a well-known sailing spot (it isn’t). But I liked the idea of exploring an unfamiliar coastline by sea and – who knows – maybe one day sailing back home to the Mediterranean.
Earlier this year, my college friend Stan came over from the US to sail SWJ. Notwithstanding the prevailing northerlies, we planned to cruise up to Lamu before returning to Kilifi. The first day did not work out great with thunderstorms keeping us docked at the boat yard. The next day we set off with an unexpected southerly pushing us northwards. We had decided to sail through the night and take advantage of the 6-7 knots we were able to maintain as we sailed past Watamu and Malindi. As the sun set, we cracked open two White Caps and started debating whether to go with canned chickpeas and tomatoes or splurge on canned tuna for dinner. Midway through what was becoming an unnecessarily long conversation, our fishing line suddenly jerked—we’d caught something! In almost a decade of sailing, my friends and I had only ever caught two fish, both too small to eat. So, when the line started pulling hard, we were convinced this was it, the moment our sailing lives had been waiting for. Stan launched into what felt like an epic, hour-long battle while I kept the boat (and the beers) steady. As Stan reeled the fish out of the water we shouted. A barracuda! The size of my arm! Just as he was about to lift the fish onto deck, the line snapped. Apparently, this is called “dropping a Dawn as we prepared to leave the Italian space center outside of Malindi
fish.” We were both gutted.
We made it to Shela at dawn just as the wind died. The entry into Shela was magical as we sailed past its sandy dunes and waved good morning to the fishermen on their way out to sea. We told them about our lost barracuda. As the sun came up, stifling heat sent us ashore in search of some iced coffee and fresh fruit. That’s when Stan got curious.
“Is there anything farther up north?”
“Yes, an island called Kiwayu, close-ish to the border with Somalia”
“Have you been?”
“No”
“Should we check it out?”
“Sure”
Nine hours of incredible sailing took us through Pate Bay, staying well clear of reefs as we tried to make it to Kiwayu by sunset. With some help from a friend who runs Jua House in Shela, we found a kind local who was waiting for us at the island’s only village. We made it just as the sun was going down and were invited by him
to join his family for fast breaking (it was the middle of Ramadan). An hour or so later, Stan and I were riding behind what we were told are the only two working boda bodas on the island on the moonlit beach. We had some G&Ts alongside some Swahili fish curry at Mike’s Camp before sleeping on the beach. As we woke up we realized how stunning of a place we found ourselves in.
We were completely alone on a long stretch of white beach looking out at the sun slowly rising above the Indian Ocean.
“Man, this is pretty incredible”
“Yeah”
We made our way back to SWJ and set sail once again. We stopped for an evening in Manda Bay where we picked up some fuel and had a wonderful dinner at the lodge before spending our last night anchored just outside of the Italian space center, north of Malindi. We tacked into the Kilifi creek at sunset leaving behind us an incredible week sailing the wild coastline of one of the most beautiful countries we know.
Maximilian and Stanislas setting sail with matching hats
Smackwater Jack anchored in front of Kiwayu
Close
to the Earth
I will never forget my first camping experience in the Serengeti, a landscape I had only ever imagined through animated films and David Attenborough documentaries.
After dinner on my first night in the wild, I was escorted back to my tent by torchlight. Under the glow of a tiny lamp, I brushed my teeth and climbed into bed. The flaps of my tent were zipped closed, but the scent of fresh Tanzanian air still hung all around me. As I was drifting off to sleep, I could hear the faint sounds of hyenas and lions at a safe, mostly soothing distance while insects, frogs, and other meditative nocturnal noises filled the air.
Moments later, I woke to a deep darkness, punctuated only by the grunting, chewing, and breathing of something so close to my head that it felt like I’d woken up in a scene from Jurassic Park. “Do I use the horn I was instructed to blow in case of emergencies? Is it
By Emma Jude Jackson
even safe to get up and search for it? What if I distress the beast that lies on the other side of the flimsy canvas that separates us?” With the electricity off, the WiFi is out too, so I couldn’t even contact anyone. “Is this how I die?”
In the pitch-black of night, down in the heart of the Southern Serengeti, my senses were at their most heightened. I was one of only two guests in camp, and the team of staff sent to look out for me was very much back-of-house and well out of reach.
The decision was made for me as I involuntarily flew out of bed—my tent shaking to the rhythm of heavy animal breath, while guttural lion roars grew closer. “Is this lion going to attack whatever is next to my tent, and in the chase, bring it all crashing down around me?”
What felt like 300 hours passed, but eventually, both the lions and the beast moved on and I managed to get some rest before sunrise. The next morning, the camp team took great delight in informing me that the lions were miles away and that the creature near my tent was a mostly harmless buffalo with an itch to scratch. Laughter erupted over breakfast as my harrowing tale was passed from person to person—what was terrifying to me was all too normal for them.
I will never forget how I felt that night. While I will always maintain the utmost respect for safety protocols and my own fragility, now knowing how the night feels and sounds, the things that once scared me only thrill me. I would give anything to fall asleep to the sound of
howling hyenas and rumbling lion roars, to hear zebras and impalas grazing nearby, monkeys leaping across the roof of my tent, or buffaloes shuffling past. It is a true privilege and a real luxury to find oneself in the middle of the circle of life without constricting brick walls and the artificial hum of an airconditioning unit or generator.
Living close to the ground in the African wilderness encourages a presentness that is hard to find anywhere else. Here, we become acutely aware of our vulnerability, but also of how little we truly need to be at peace and in sync with nature. Free from distractions, noise, and light pollution, we fall into a natural rhythm with night and day. It offers the greatest and most authentic central nervous system reset on Earth.
Passion, Determination, and Creativity:
Ace Oreal and the Formation of Lehem Interiors and La Casa Complex
Ace Oreal’s story touches on the power of passion and the unyielding determination to carve out one's path, even in the face of societal expectations. Born and raised in the Philippines by his grandparents while his parents worked in Dubai, Ace was seemingly destined to follow a career in nursing—a path carefully charted out by his family. Despite struggling with dyslexia and knowing deep down that this was not his true passion, Ace dutifully followed his mother’s insistence that becoming a nurse was the "right" path. He passed his exams and moved to Dubai to complete the final steps needed to practice nursing there.
But a pivotal moment in Dubai would change everything. No longer willing to float along the current of others' expectations, Ace decided to pivot from nursing and pursue a life he could be passionate about. While helping at an interior design firm in Dubai, he experienced a profound "lightbulb moment." Interior design spoke to him in ways nursing never had, sparking a fire within him that would change his life’s trajectory.
Determined to excel, Ace began working tirelessly at the design firm. His dedication did not go unnoticed; impressed by his work ethic and potential, his employers funded his education in interior design, allowing him to earn the qualifications he needed. After several years of hard work and learning in Dubai, another fateful twist would shape Ace’s future. He met his business partner, and in 2014, they travelled to Nairobi to complete the
Lehem Interiors is a full-service interior design company founded on the principles of "Dream, Design, Create." This ethos reflects Ace’s outlook with each client, starting by centering their dreams and desires to craft a unique brief. From there, Ace and his team take strategic steps to bring those dreams to life, carefully balancing aesthetics with functionality. The final stage is the creation itself, where Lehem brings the vision to reality.
La Casa Complex, on the other hand, operates with a philosophy of "By People, To People, For People." Every piece of furniture/décor reflects the creativity and craftsmanship of skilled artisans and designers. La Casa Complex is also deeply committed to social good, supporting children’s education and promoting acceptance through initiatives like the "Wear Your Skin Proud" campaign. This initiative celebrates the beauty
Royal Tulip Hotel project.
This was Ace’s first exposure to the African continent, and it was love at first sight. He was inspired not just by the land's beauty but also by the vast opportunities and the creativity within the people. He later expanded his work into Uganda, cementing his connection with Africa.
“Africa gave me the shine I
never knew I had. It was here that my work was seen for what it truly was.”
Today, Ace is the founder of two thriving businesses: Lehem Interiors and La Casa Complex. Both reflect his deep connection to the idea of "home" — a concept that has been fluid for Ace, given his upbringing by his grandparents in the absence of his parents. "Lehem" is short for Bethlehem, symbolizing a place of comfort and belonging. Likewise, "La Casa" translates to "the house" in several Latin languages, anchoring his designs in the warmth and soul of home life.
of all skin types, including those with scars, albinism, or vitiligo, creating a meaningful intersection between design and social impact.
"I want the spaces I design to reflect the world I see. When people walk into a room I’ve created, I want them to feel like they’ve travelled to a place of peace, creativity, and beauty."
Today, Ace’s companies are a testament to the power of pursuing one’s passion with unrelenting determination. Africa, which had once seemed distant, became the stage where Ace’s vision flourished. He speaks fondly of the continent, often calling it the "biggest hidden gem" of his life. "I came here not knowing what to expect, but I learned more about myself, patience, and growth than I ever imagined," he reflects.
Visitors to Nairobi can now experience Ace’s design philosophy firsthand at the La Casa Complex Showroom in Principal Place, Westlands.
Capturing Nairobi:
Mutua Matheka’s 15 Year Archive
At Nomad, we’re all about reshaping travel narratives, and we couldn’t think of a better choice to curate the cover of this issue than Mutua Matheka. The timing couldn’t be more perfect, as it aligns beautifully with the launch of his latest
exhibition, ‘Fragments,’ an extraordinary celebration of Nairobi. After 15 years of capturing the city through his lens, Matheka presents a remarkable archive that invites us all to see this vibrant metropolis in a new light.
For too long pictures of Nairobi have been of our slums, or as Mutua says “a lot of images will be of Kibera, which is the largest slum in Africa. It is ours. It’s not something that I’m trying to refute. But Kibera is not 90 percent of Nairobi… The worst of Africa has been photographed for so long. I am not interested in photographing that.” With ‘Fragments,’ he challenges these stereotypes, inviting everyone to appreciate Nairobi as a thriving cultural hub filled with rich stories.
And that is also what we are trying to showcase through Nomad. Our objective is simple yet profound: to showcase the richness of African culture, history, art and modernity that thrives within its bustling cities. Our cities are not just urban centres; they are living, breathing entities that pulsate with energy and creativity. That's why our curated itineraries are designed to immerse travellers in the heart and soul of African cities, offering them a chance to connect with local communities, explore hidden gems, and create lasting memories.
And nobody understands this objective as well as Matheka. Running from October 25th to November
10th, ‘Fragments’ offers an immersive experience that transcends traditional sightseeing. Matheka has skillfully combined photography, film, and audio-visual elements to create an exhibition that truly connects you with the spirit of Nairobi. Each piece tells a story, showcasing the city's beauty, resilience, and the diverse life that unfolds within it.
Visiting ‘Fragments’ offers an opportunity to immerse yourself in the vibrant pulse of Nairobi. You won’t just see the city’s sights; you’ll feel its rhythm and energy. This exhibition is a beautiful reminder of how art and life intertwine, revealing the many experiences that make Nairobi truly unique.
So, as you plan your next adventure, let ‘Fragments’ inspire your exploration of Nairobi. It’s not just another art show; it’s an invitation to witness the city’s narrative unfold through the eyes of a passionate storyteller. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or returning to rediscover its charm, don’t miss this opportunity to experience Nairobi like never before!
Birira River Love, Adventure, and the Untouched Beauty of Uganda's
Founders Sadat Kawawa and Nathalie van den Brekel chat to us about how their shared love of adventure led to both their partnership and the founding of SANA Gorilla Rafting: a hidden gem deep in Western Uganda’s forest on the Birira River. We spoke with “The King of the Nile” (i.e. Sadat) and his Queen (i.e. Nathalie) on his passion for the river, their vision for the company, and their dedication to responsible tourism.
How did you two meet and decide to start SANA Gorilla Rafting?
I was a medical student, and was on an internship in Jinja, Uganda, in 2016. I was drawn to the place because of my aunt's stories and decided to go whitewater rafting. My instructor was Sadat, a renowned Ugandan kayaker known as the "King of the Nile." We fell in love during my time in Uganda and continued our relationship after I returned to finish my studies.
Together, we’ve explored the world, living in various places like the Netherlands, Aruba, Iceland, and the UK. While on a road trip back in Uganda, we discovered the Birira River, a hidden gem deep in the rainforest. Its unique combination of technical rapids, untouched beauty, and diverse wildlife made it the perfect location for our next adventure. The decision to stay in Uganda and start SANA Gorilla Rafting was made then and there.
What makes the Birira River a unique destination for rafting and kayaking?
The Birira River stands out due to its secluded location. Unlike many popular rafting spots, this river offers the
thrill of navigating rapids surrounded by lush greenery, with the stunning Rwenzori Mountains as a backdrop. Its technical nature presents an exhilarating challenge for seasoned kayakers, yet the river’s beauty and safety make it accessible to adventurers of all skill levels.
What truly sets this location apart is its proximity to two of Uganda’s top national parks. We're just two hours from Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, renowned for gorilla trekking, and an hour and a half from Queen Elizabeth National Park, famous for its tree-climbing lions. While many seek adventure sports in Jinja, our secluded spot guarantees not only an adrenaline rush but also a serene experience away from the crowds.
Sadat, what’s it like for people to have the "King of the Nile" teach them to kayak or take them rafting?
The connection I share with clients feels effortless because, for me, guiding these trips doesn’t feel like work. I’m simply sharing what I love. Every guest who joins us for rafting has been overwhelmingly positive, which is truly humbling. Rafting and kayaking are more than just sports to me; they’re a way of life. On the water, I find peace and focus—my mind clears, and I’m fully immersed in the river’s flow. My passion, perseverance, and skill have allowed me to thrive in this field and travel the world. It's not always easy for a Ugandan to have those opportunities, but kayaking and rafting made it possible for me.
What’s in the future for you guys and SANA Gorilla Rafting?
Beyond rafting and kayaking, we envision SANA Gorilla Rafting evolving into a full-scale outdoor adventure center. The hilly terrain is perfect for mountain biking, and the area offers rich opportunities for village walks, coffee and banana tours, waterfall hikes, and cultural experiences. The nearby lakes are ideal for stand-up paddleboarding and flat-water kayaking, and we’re exploring the possibility of adding a zip-line or obstacle course in the future. We also plan to build a lodge near the river where we raft, and we’re excited to welcome guests there soon!
In addition, we’re committed to increasing our support for the local community. We work closely with locals, offering training as guides and providing swimming lessons to youth. With Sadat’s certification as an IRFqualified rafting guide instructor, we’re able to train local guides and help them secure international opportunities. Our goal is to keep expanding these efforts and continue giving back in meaningful ways.
Sadat, what are some of your favorite rafting destinations around the world?
There are millions of rivers around the world where you can enjoy rafting and kayaking, and they all have their own unique ways. I went to Iceland in 2017 for the first time rafting in Europe. I kept on going back for another 3 years (2018 and 2022), just because of the country's beauty and its amazing rivers. It’s hard to describe its beauty in words; it's a place I would highly recommend. I’ve also been to Ecuador, Spain, Ethiopia (Blue Nile), many rivers in Kenya, Victoria Falls, and Canada, rafting beautiful rivers everywhere. I would love to keep exploring in the future.
Whether you're en route to Bwindi for gorilla trekking or Queen Elizabeth National Park, a SANA adventure is the perfect addition to your journey!
In focus: Entara Camps, Tanzania.
In her latest adventure, Nilpa Shah dives into the heart of Tanzania, telling us all about Entara’s group of camps.
From the iconic peaks of Kilimanjaro to the sprawling savannahs, Tanzania is a safari haven. It is where Africa’s wild heart beats the strongest. Enter Entara, featuring intimate camps and bespoke safari experiences that redefines Tanzanian wilderness. With a focus on curated adventures, this is the essence of immersive travel that Nomad Africa brings to life.
Esirai Camp
Imagine being able to follow the migration tucked into luxury in the remote Serengeti. Being a mobile camp means that you experience being a part of nature’s greatest show and follow the grazing routes from the Southern Plains to the North into the Mara River crossing. The eco-luxe tents and Mess tent are packed up and reerected as they go along in just a week by 12 people!
Olmara Camp
But Entara, she continues to show off. In Eastern Serengeti, Olmara Camp is strategically placed in the remote regions of the park and home to Africa’s largest concentration of big cats. This all-year destination makes it a photographer’s delight. Savour the milky way by staying in the stargazer tent or even do fly camping.
Ol Keri Camp
When you’ve had enough of the migration, Ol Keri
Camp in Tarangire boasts of large herds of my favorite gentle giants—the elephants! Overlooking a valley and a watering hole, Ol Keri lets you experience walking in the wild and night game drives all nestled amidst the exotic Baobab tree.
Kisima Ngeda Camp
Off to the ancestral land of the Hazda hunters, one of Entara’s cozy camps, Kisima Ngeda Camp, is tucked between the Ngorongoro Highlands, overlooking the seasonal salt water Lake Eyasi. Here you experience the hunter-gatherer lifestyle firsthand. It's an absolute cultural sensation!
Katambuga House
Finally, Katambuga House in Arusha seems to subtly wrap up the experience-centric vibe that Entara has created. Lying at the foothills of Mt. Meru, she lets you explore Arusha’s coffee estates, cultural heritage center, and even Arusha National Park!
Entara shows us that a safari experience means nothing without that unbridled, raw connection to the wilderness.
Take advantage of these special rates, exclusive to Nomad, for bookings made in October and November.
Scan the QR code to make an enquiry.
Esirai Camp
Olmara Camp
Ol Keri Camp
Kisima Ngeda Camp
Two Brands Leading the Charge
Ngara, a neighborhood just northeast of Nairobi's CBD, is experiencing a remarkable resurgence, thanks in part to two inspiring brands committed to its revival. Historically, Ngara was designated for Indians during colonial rule but later fell victim to the infamous
Revitalizing Ngara: Arrai: A Curated Marketplace for Creative Culture
Arrai is a curated fashion, art, and lifestyle marketplace showcasing cutting-edge brands, designers, artists, and makers from Africa. In addition to their stunning showroom at NSK, Arrai has opened a second home: The Living Rooms in Ngara. Their vision for this space goes beyond retail; it aims to create a vibrant social hub where fashion, art, film, music, and design converge.
reputation of "Nairobbery." As residents left, the area took on a more "dodgy" vibe. However, significant efforts are underway to breathe new life into Ngara, and two brands we admire are at the forefront of this mission.
The Living Rooms will feature a boutique, a bar, a café, and an open-air cinema, along with an intimate exhibition and event space for community-curated experiences. After a soft opening in September, Arrai invites the community to view this space as a blank canvas and share ideas on how it can best serve the neighborhood and beyond.
Soma Nami: A Book Hub with a Difference
Founded by Muthoni Muiruri and Wendy Njoroge, Soma Nami is a book hub dedicated to centering African stories and making literature by Africans accessible. Their commitment to building communities and amplifying diverse narratives is palpable. With a strong focus on the Pan-African spirit, Soma Nami prioritizes works by authors from the African continent, the diaspora, and women. The opening of their new location in Ngara in June marks a significant milestone in fostering a culture of reading and storytelling in the neighborhood.
Visit Soma Nami’s bookstores and join their Book Club! They meet monthly and pick the most amazing books with an African focus - be it in the story or written by an African author. In-person discussions usually fall on the last Saturday of the month.
Together, Soma Nami and Arrai are leading the charge to revitalize Ngara, turning it into a vibrant hub for creativity and community. Their efforts are not just about business; they are about fostering connections and celebrating the rich cultural heritage of Nairobi.
24 hours in Asmara
By Ludovica Cipolla
Asmara is the epitome of an understated capital. Eritrea’s largest city, and a UNESCO World Heritage site, shares many of the best features of this remote, hermetic country: the increasingly rare allure of a place frozen in time, almost entirely offline, with the relaxed pace of a tranquil village and a rich architectural history that remains largely untouched.
Throughout your visit, you will notice the hospitality of the people, incredibly welcoming despite the country’s complex past, and the peaceful coexistence of three religions: Coptic Orthodox Christianity, Catholicism, and Islam. This harmonious relationship adds to the unique cultural fabric of Eritrea, a society that, despite its challenges, embraces diversity and community.
Morning
Start your day with breakfast at the Sunshine Hotel, a beloved institution just a 10-minute walk from Harnet Avenue, the city's main street. After breakfast in their cozy dining rooms filled with warm red tones, embark on a walking tour through Asmara's architectural museum of Italian colonial history. Highlights include futurist icons like the Fiat Tagliero Building, a gas station with a wing-like cantilevered concrete roof, and rationalist marvels like Cinema Roma and Albergo Italia - visiting the interiors of both is a must. Don’t miss the Art Deco gems like Cinema Impero and Caffè Crispi - one of the many old fashioned cafés where you can enjoy a mid-morning espresso and admire the stylish Asmarinos around. There is also room for some retro entertainment: the Asmara Bowling Alley is one of the few remaining manual 1950s bowling alleys in the world - please do stop and play a round or two here!
Afternoon
For lunch, head to “Spaghetti House” on Harnet Avenue: enjoy a steaming bowl of tomato sauce pasta while overlooking the main city theater. After lunch, venture to two unique sites: the Medeber market, a recycling metal market showcasing Eritrean ingenuity (here, everything finds a second life!) and the astonishing Tank graveyard, an impressive collection of war tanks and trucks from Eritrea's liberation war - now charmingly overtaken by nature, with purple flowers and cacti springing everywhere.
Evening
As the day winds down, make your way to Ghibabo Restaurant for dinner: its outdoor space offers a lively atmosphere under twinkling lights, while the indoor wooden dining room is ideal for a cozy and elegant gathering. Choose between traditional injera or another round of delicious pasta, and for an after-dinner drink, nothing is better than Sunshine hotel and its cozy bar: it becomes a true hub of live music and buzz in the evening!
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