DISPATCH
COMOROS:
AFRICA’S FORGOTTEN ARCHIPELAGO Floating between Mozambique and Madagascar lie a number of volcanic islands, tropical in climate, unspoiled in nature and positively wild: this is Comoros, the romantically named Islands of the Moon. Maurice Schutgens paints a perfect picture with these five activities that should be on your bucket list:
1. EXPLORING MORONI Set in the shadow of Mount Karthala, with a name that roughly translates to “in the heart of the fire”, Moroni is the capital city of Comoros, home to an eclectic mix of Arabic, French and Swahili cultures. Moroni is loud, somewhat gritty and possibly ever so slightly chaotic. My overloaded taxi, blaring the latest hip-hop tracks, drops me off at the famous Volo Volo Market at the heart of the city. From the get-go it’s a sensory overload. I’m offered ripe produce from the flanks of Mount Karthala, freshly caught tunas and tasteful local fabrics worn by Chiromani – Comorian women. Vanilla aromas hang heavy in the air. I head for the serenity of the medina awash with intricate Arabic architecture and beautifully carved Zanzibar doors, a fading reminder of former glory. I wind my way aimlessly through the deserted maze of narrow streets striking up conversations with local Comorians about everything and nothing. Finally I move along, heading for Moroni’s most iconic landmark in the harbour: the Ancienne Mosquee du Vendredi (Friday Mosque) dating back to 1427. As the sun sets, I people watch, my legs swinging over the embankment. It’s a mesmerizing place.
46
DISCOVER
EXPLORE
EXPERIENCE
2. SCALING MOUNT KARTHALA Mount Karthala looms large over the southern half of Grand Comore, its imposing presence a constant reminder of the fury that bubbles just below the surface. The crater rim, located at just under 2,400m, appears permanently lost in the equatorial clouds. Karthala is one of the most active volcanoes on earth and the opportunity to look down into its crater irresistible! I leave my hotel at 3:00am In the cool of the night. As the sun crests the horizon the landscape changes, we leave the equatorial forest behind and head up into a wild tundra like landscape characterized by stunted trees, giant heather plants and remnants of ancient lava flows. Upwards we go, sweating profusely though it's only 6:00am. Three hours later we crawl onto the crater rim. I am absolutely battered but the pain is temporarily forgotten for the views are breathtaking. Ahead of us lies the colossal moonscape of Karthala’s caldera. We descend into it and cross the soft grey fields of ash till we stand on the rim of the new crater.
